Download - 101 Whiskies to Try Before You Die
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101WhiskiestoTryBeforeYouDie
IanBuxton
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Copyright©2010IanBuxton
TherightofIanBuxtontobeidentifiedastheAuthoroftheWorkhasbeenassertedbyhiminaccordancewiththeCopyright,DesignsandPatentsAct1988.
ApartfromanyusepermittedunderUKcopyrightlaw,thispublicationmayonlybereproduced,stored,ortransmitted,inanyform,orbyanymeans,withpriorpermissioninwritingofthepublishersor,inthecaseofreprographicproduction,inaccordancewiththetermsoflicencesissuedbytheCopyrightLicensingAgency.
FirstpublishedasanEbookbyHeadlinePublishingGroupin2010
Allcharactersinthispublicationarefictitiousandanyresemblancetorealpersons,livingordead,ispurelycoincidental.
CataloguinginPublicationDataisavailablefromtheBritishLibrary
eISBN:9780755360833
HACHETTESCOTLANDAnHachetteUKCompany
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338EustonRoad
LondonNW13BHwww.headline.co.ukwww.hachette.co.uk
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Contents
Introduction
101whiskies
Howtotastewhiskyandusethisbook
Acknowledgements
Furtherresources
Wheretobuy
Picturecredits
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Introduction
101WhiskiestoTryBeforeYouDieisawhiskylistwithadifference.Accessiblewhiskyforrealpeople.
Itisnotanawardslist.
Itisnotalistofthe101‘best’whiskiesintheworld.
Itissimply,asitsaysinthetitle,aguideto101whiskiesthatenthusiastsreallyshouldseekoutandtry–lovethemorhatethem–tocompletetheirwhiskyeducation.What’smore,it’spracticalandrealistic.
101WhiskiestoTryBeforeYouDiedoesnotcontainobscuresingle-caskbottlingsthatsoldoutweeksbeforepublicationanditdoesn’tcontainhugelyexpensivewhiskiesthatvirtuallynoonecanaffordtobuyanyway(eveniftheycouldfindthem).
Afterall,what’sthepoint?Imightlookterrificallysmartrecommending,say,theGlenglassaugh40YearsOldthatrecentlywontheInternationalWine&SpiritCompetition’sspecialtrophyfor40YearsOldScotchWhisky.Byonetokenatleast,thatmakesittheverybestsinglemaltScotchyoucanbuy.Apanelofreallywell-informedandexpertjudges(notjustonepersonandnotme)pickeditfromitspeers.Thoughlittleknown,itisvery,verygoodandIcouldbeseentobedoingyouafavourbypointingyouitsway.Butit’s£1,500abottle.Orperhaps,Glenfiddich’s50YearsOld,asnipat£10,000.Areyoureallygoingtonipoutandbuyabottle?Idon’tthinkso.SoIsetmyselfsomeruleswhenIstartedwritingthisbook.
Essentially,theycanbesummedupas:everywhiskylistedheremustbea)generallyavailable(althoughyoumighthavetolookalittlebit,everyoneofthesewhiskiesshouldbeavailablefromadecentwhiskyspecialistorthroughanonlineretailer)andb)affordable(readontoseewhatthatmeans).And,thoughitgoeswithoutsaying,theremustbeareasonfortheirinclusion.Mostlyit’sbecausethey’revery,verygoodexamplesoftheirkind,butsometimestheydeserveyoursupportforotherreasons.Sometimesitwillbebecausetheyare
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madebysmalldistillersswimmingagainstatideofcorporateubiquitybutitmightjustbebecauseaparticularwhiskyissimplysounusualthatyoujusthavetotryit.Thatmightmeanremindingyouofsomethingfamiliarthatyouknewaboutbuthad,sortof,forgotten;hopefully,moreoften,itwillpointyoutosomethingnew,unexpectedandsurprising.
Aboveall,thisbookisaboutwhiskiestodrink,notcollect.
SoI’veexcludedone-offbottlingsorsingle-caskreleases,becausethere’ssimplynotenoughtogoaround.AndI’vesimplyignoredwhiskiesthatseemtometobedesignedprimarilyforcollectors.Perhapsmoreimportantly,I’vetakenaveryhard-headedlookatretailprices.I’vebeenhighlyselectiveonceawhiskyrisesabove£100inatypicalBritishwhiskyshop;verycriticalindeedifitcosts£500ormore,andflatlyignoreditoncethepricebreaksthe£1,000barrier.So,sorryTheMacallan57YearOldFinestCutinyourLaliquecrystaldecanter;goodbyeDalmore62YearOldandfarewelltoArdbeg’sritzyDoubleBarrel.Tastythoughyoumaybe,yourfantasypricetagsruleyouout.Let’sgetreal:thisbookisforwhiskydrinkers,notRussianplutocrats.
What’smore,becauseIdon’tbelieveinthesimplisticandreductionistnotionofthe‘world’sbestwhisky’,everything’sinalphabeticalorder.
Andevenmoreunusually,nothinghasa‘score’.Again,Isimplydon’tacceptthatyoushouldfollowoneperson’sindividualpreferencesandmoreorlessidiosyncraticscoringsystem(andthat’sallthatmosttastingbooksare).ThereareseveralreasonswhyIbelieve100-pointscoringsystemsdon’twork,notleasttheideathatanyoneindividualcanconsistentlyandreliablydifferentiatebetweenawhiskyscoring92andonescoring93.Itseemstomepalpablyabsurd,sowe’renotgoingthere.
Better,infact,totakesomeadvicefromAeneasMacDonald,theoriginalsageofwhisky,whoin1930suggestedthatthediscerningdrinkerlearntojudgewhiskywith‘hismother-wit,hisnoseandhispalatetoguidehim’.Soundwords.
But,somanywhiskiessolittletime.Withtheworldofwhiskyexpandingalmostdaily,anexperiencedguidemaybeofsomevalue,ifonlytopointyouinnewdirectionsandsuggestsomeunexploredandrewardingbywaysthatyoumaynothaveconsidered.Scotch,American,Irish,JapaneseandCanadianwhiskiesareallinhere.AsaresomefromSwedenandotherunexpectedproducingnations.
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SoIhavestrenuouslyattemptedtobewide-ranginginmyapproachand,sofarasIamable,toincludesomewhiskiesthatIpersonallydon’tparticularlycareforbutwhichareregardedasexemplarsoftheirkind.
Sohow,youmayask,didIassemblethislist?
Thereisnooneanswer.
First,Iusedmyownknowledgeandjudgement.Ihaveworkedinthewhiskyindustryformorethan20years;consultedforanumberofdistillers;beenMarketingDirectorforoneofScotland’sleadingsinglemaltwhiskies;createdandruntheWorldWhiskiesConference;writtenwidelyaboutwhisky;andsatonanumberofcompetitionjudgingpanels.So,thoughI’mstilllearningaboutwhiskyandthere’ssomethingnewtodiscoveralmostdaily,I’mprivilegedtohavetriedalotofdifferentwhiskiesandreckontoknowsomethingaboutthemandthepeoplewhomadethem.
Secondly,Ilookedatwhatmypeersthink.MainlyI’velookedatthemajorawardwinnersatimportantinternationalcompetitionssuchastheInternationalWine&SpiritCompetition(IWSC);theSanFranciscoWorldSpiritsCompetition;WhiskyMagazine’sWorldWhiskiesAwards(fromtimetotimeI’monthejudgingpanelforthatone);andmoreinformalawardssuchasthatfromtheMaltManiacs.TastingnotesbysuchluminariesasF.PaulPacultandthoseappearinginthevariousinternationalwhiskymagazineshaveallservedtodrawdifferentwhiskiestomyattention.
Andfinally,Iaskedsomeofmywhiskyfriendsandcolleaguestonominatetheirfavourites–inthecaseofpractisingdistillerstheyhadtonominateatleastoneoftheircompetitors’whiskiesforeveryoneoftheirown,andthesamerulesoncostandavailabilitywereapplied.Thosewhohelpedarelistedintheacknowledgementspage–manythankstothem.ButIshouldexplainthatIusedmywhiskyfriendsratherliketheancientGreeksusedtheOracles–I’velistenedtotheadvice,butthefinalchoicesweremine.Soblamemeifyoudon’tagreewiththelist.
AsIwritethisthereare,entirelycoincidentally,101whiskydistilleriesoperatingintheUKwhereIlive(yes,thereareatleasttwooutsideScotland),butsuchistheconstantlychangingnatureofthisindustrythatthenumberwillbewrongbythetimeyoureadthis.Aroundtheworldthereare–oh,Idon’tknow,perhaps
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twohundredorso.Probablymore.
Andtheykeepopening.Oneoftheexcitingthingsaboutthewhiskyindustryinthelasttenyearshasbeentheproliferationofnewdistilleriesacrosstheworld,especiallyboutiquecraftdistilleriesin‘new’whisky-producingcountries.Manyhaveexcellentandinformativevisitorcentres–butopeninghoursandseasonsvary.Becauseofthat,Ihaven’tgivenspecificdetailsbutsuggestyoucheckonlineorphoneinadvancetoconfirmwhentheyareopen.
WecannowgetwhiskyfromScotland,Ireland,Canada,theUSA,Japan,India,Sweden,Belgium,Switzerland,Australia,France,Austria,theCzechRepublic,England,Wales,Finland,Germany,Holland,Russia,NewZealand,Pakistan,Turkey,SouthKoreaandSouthAfrica.Apparently,thereareevenwhiskydistilleriesinBrazil,Nepal,UruguayandVenezuela.Inevitably,morethanhalfthewhiskiesinthisbookaresinglemaltsfromScotland,withScottishblendsandgrainstakingthetotalfrommyhomecountrytoanimpressive72whiskies.But,reflectingthegrowingpopularity,influenceandqualityof‘worldwhiskies’,morethanaquarterofthoseIhaveselectedarefromtheUSA,Japanandothercountries–andIcanassureyouthatyou’llbeimpressed.
So,whenyouconsiderthatallofthesecountriescanproduceanynumberof‘singlemalt’expressionsdifferentiatedbyage,casktype,finishandsoforth,andmostofthemdo,andthenaddblendedwhiskiesandindigenousnon-Scotchstyles,suchasbourbon,ryeandsoon,tothepotentialuniverse,youcanseethattastingthemrepresentsalifetimeofunremittingtoil.
Oneofthelessonsofthisbookisthatyoudon’thavetospendalotofmoneytofindreallygreatorinterestingwhiskies.Infact,Ididn’treallylookatpriceuntilaftercompletingthefirstdraftofthelist.ThepricerangesindicatedinthetextarebasedonthetypicalUKretailpricefromaspecialistindependentwhiskyshop,andwerecorrectaswewenttopress.Aroundhalfareunder£40.Infact,ifyouboughtabottleofeverythinghereitwouldcostaround£7,100,ifyouwereintheUK(butyou’dprobablybeabletonegotiateadiscount).Ifyoudroppedthethreemostexpensivetherestwouldaveragejustover£56abottle–gocomparethatwiththeworld’sbest-knownwines.Whiskycanbeaseriousbargain!
Here’sthekeytothe1to5scale:Under£25 £25–40 £40–69 £70–150 Over£150
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Ofcourse,priceschangeallthetime.Inparticular,taxanddutyrateschange,productsareputonpromotionor,generallylessfavourablyfortheconsumer,‘repositioned’asthemarketingfolkswouldhaveit.Priceswillalsovaryifyouarereadingthisthousandsofmilesawayfrommeinaplacewherecostsmaybehigherforlong-distanceimports,butlessforlocalbottles.
HighratesoftaxationintheUKcomeasaconstantsurprisetovisitorsfrommanycountries,however,whoregularlyask‘whyiswhiskymoreexpensivehereinScotlandthaninmyhome?’Fortheanswer,applytotheGovernmentwho,atthetimeofwriting,takearoundthree-quartersoftheretailpriceofabottleofstandardScotchwhiskyinexcisedutyandVAT.
Thereareseveralthousandwhiskiesoutthere–perhapsevententhousand.Noonereallyknows.So,astheoldjokewouldhaveit,it’stoughworkbutsomeonehastodoit.I’vepicked101foryoutoenjoy,savingyouhoursofjoylesslabour.Youdon’thavetothankme;buyingthebookwilldojustfine.
Eachonehasanentrydescribingthewhiskyandtheproducer,withsomebackgroundinformationthatIhopeyou’llfindusefulandinteresting.Thentherearebrieftastingnotes.Thesearenotintendedtobethebe-all-and-end-all,moreajumping-offpointforyourownexplorationandtohelpexplainwhyeachwhiskymadethecut.You’llalsofindaspacetorecordyourownpurchases,personalfavouritesandtastingnotes.
WithinthesepagesIhopeyou’llfindafewsurprises,perhapsafewoldfavouritesandalsosomebargains.Ihopeyou’llbeinspiredtotrysomethingnewandsharewhatyoulearnwithafewfriends.Thisisn’tbyanystretchofimaginationthecompletelydefinitivewhiskylist.Despitewhatothersmaysay,Idoubtthatsuchathingcanexist.Butitwilltakeyouonawonderfuljourneyofdiscoveryandexplorationand,ifyoumanagetotryall101whiskies,thenyoucandiehappy.
I’dbeinterestedtohearwhatyouthinkofthelistandwhatwhiskiesyou’dsuggestforinclusioninafutureedition.Emailmeatfeedback@101whiskies.com
Meanwhile,sláinte!
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1 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
JohnDewar&SonsLtdAberfeldy,PerthshireYesWidespreadinternationalavailability
www.dewars.com
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Aberfeldy
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21YearsOld
It’sagreatshamethisisn’tmorewidelyknownbecauseI’mwillingtoguessthatpeoplewho‘don’tlikewhisky’wouldlikethisandpeoplewhoknowandlikewhiskywouldlikeitalot.
TheDewar’sdistilleryatAberfeldywasbuiltfrom1896–98bytherestless,innovativeandentrepreneurialDewarbrothers,TommyandJohn,whohiredCharlesCreeDoig,thefinestdistilleryarchitectwhoeverlived,todesignitforthem.But,foryears,undertheownershipoftheoldDistillersCompanyLtd,alloftheoutputwentforblendingandthesinglemaltboompassedAberfeldyby.
However,inoneoftheperiodicconvulsivereorganisationsthattheScotchwhiskyindustryindulgesintokeepbankersandlawyersinexpensiveGermanmotorcars,inMarch1998ownershipwastransferredtoBacardiwho,upuntilthen,hadonlyhadaminorinterestinwhisky.Theresultwasawaveofinvestment,includingwhathasbeendescribedbyWhiskyMagazineas‘theultimateScotchwhiskyvisitorcentre’andanumberofexcitingnewproducts.
Thebestoftheseisthis21YearsOldsinglemalt.Aberfeldyisnotedforagentle,heather-honeysweetnessandthiswhiskyisjustdelightful:well-mannered,delicateandsurprisinglycomplex.It’sashameabouttherathersquatanduglybottlebutdon’tletthatputyouoff.
Itmaybeeasiertofindthe12YearOldversion–that’sgood,butthisisalotbetterandwellworththeadditionalmoney.Theextraagereallyroundsoutanddeepensthiswhisky,thesubtletyofwhichwouldtragicallygetlostinablendingvat.ColourWarmgoldandamber.Nose Acreamy,honeyednosewithdriedfruits,heatherflowersandhintsof
coconut.Taste Intensebutnotcloyingsweetness,darkorangemarmalade,vanillaand
oakwood.Mouthcoatingandcreamy.Finish Thisislong,quitespicyandhashintsoflemon.Restrainedandelegant.
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2 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
ChivasBrothersLtdAberlour,SpeysideYesSpecialists,bettersupermarketsanddutyfree
www.aberlour.com
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Aberlour
a’bunadh
Acaskstrengthwhiskyhasquietlybeenmakinganameforitselfoverthepastfewyearsandhasnowattractedquiteacrowdofenthusiasticdevoteeswhopraisethebig,richflavoursofthisSpeysidemalt.
Aberlourdistillerywasestablishedin1879andthenremodelledbytheleadingdistilleryarchitectCharlesDoigsometwentyyearslaterafteradisastrousfire.Itreallycameintoitsownafter1975whenitwasacquiredbytheFrenchgroupPernodRicardandbecametheirleadsinglemaltbrandinthedaysbeforetheirpurchaseoftheSeagramdistilleries(TheGlenlivetinparticular).Todaythedistilleryoffersanexcellent‘AberlourDistilleryExperience’tourwhichiswellworthmakingtheefforttotake(bookingisessential).
Thereareseveraleasilyaccessibleexpressions,andthepossibilityofbottlingyourowndirectfromasinglecaskatthedistillery,buttheonetogoforisthestrangelynameda’bunadh(it’spronounceda-boon-ahandmeans‘theorigin’inGaelic).Itisnon-chillfilteredandatfull-caskstrength,theideabehindtheproductbeingtoreplicatea19th-century-stylewhiskymaturedexclusivelyinSpanishoakolorososherrybutts.So,ifyouliketraditionalMacallanorGlenfarclas,you’regoingtolovethis.
Notethatthisisreleasedinbatches,someofwhichhavebeencriticisedastastingslightlysulphured(aneffectofcasktreatment),soifyoufindabatchthatyouparticularlylike,itmightbeanideatosnapupseveralbottlesbeforeitrunsout.Equally,it’sfuntokeepexperimentingand,perhaps,tasteonebatchagainstanother.Andthisshouldn’tbeaproblem,because,forwhiskyofthisqualityandstrength(it’susuallyaroundthe60%abvmark),it’squiteabargain.Expecttopayabout£35.Colour Richanddark.Nose Amarkedsherrycharacter,possiblyhoneyanddarkfruits.Taste Can be drunk at full strength but develops with water. Big, mouth
filling,Christmascake,driedfruits,possiblysomecitrusandchocolate
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notes.Finish Expectadrawn-outfinish,perhapswithevolvingspices,oakandsome
smokynotes.
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3 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
AmrutDistilleriesLtdAmrut,Bangalore,IndiaNoSpecialists
www.amrutwhisky.com
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Amrut
Fusion
Indianwhisky?Somemistake,surely?Well,no.Indiaisahugewhiskymarketandagiantproducerbut,unfortunately,thevastmajorityofIndianwhiskyismadefrommolasses–andsofarastheEUisconcernedthatmeansit’srumandcan’tbesoldas‘whisky’.
Thisiscurrentlythebasisofamajorandlong-runningtradedispute,withtheScotchwhiskyindustryclaimingthatIndianimportdutiesareanillegalrestraintoftrade,andtheIndianproducerscryingfoulandpointingoutthatmuchoftheirdistillingindustrywassetupbytheBritishinthefirstplace.Today,theIndianindustryisdominatedbyVijayMallya’sUnitedSpirits,producersofsuchfinebrandsasBagpiperandMcDowells.Toaddtotheconfusion,theyalsoownGlasgow’sWhyte&Mackay.ButtheIndianwhiskythathasmadeitintothislistisactuallydistilledbytheirsmallerindependentrival,AmrutDistilleriesLtd,establishedin1948.AccordingtoIndianmythology,whentheGodsandtheRakshasas(demons)churnedtheoceansusingthemountainMeru,agoldenpotcalledthe‘Amrut’sprangoutcontainingtheElixirofLife.
Amrutisrealsinglemaltwhisky;thatistosay,itismadesimplywithmaltedbarley,waterandyeastsoitcanbesoldhere.Andthat’sourgoodfortune,becauseit’sreallyverygood(youdidn’tthinkitwasherejustoutofcuriosity,didyou?).
Fusionisanunusualproduct,uniqueinthatitcombinesIndianbarleyfromtheHimalayaswithpeatedmaltfromScotlandandisbottledatahealthy50%abv.Anddespitethat(anddespitehavingcomehalfwayroundtheworld),it’sprettygoodvalueatatypical£35abottle.Justtrynottothinkofthecarbonfootprintifyou’redrinkingitinTannochbrae!Colour Bright gold. Indianwhiskymatures faster than Scotch so spends less
timeinthecask.Nose Apronouncedwoodimpact,butalsopeat,vanillaandfruit.Taste Surprisingly complex and engaging, the peat mixes with oak, fruit,
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chocolateandcaramelshortcake.Finish Yes,youwillfinishthisandwanttofindanotherbottle.Fadestoadry
spiciness.
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4 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
InverHouseDistillersLtdKnockdhu,Knock,nrKeith,SpeysideNone–visitsbyappointmentSpecialistsandonline
www.ancnoc.com
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anCnoc
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16YearsOld
YoureallyhavetothinkthatInverHousehavemadelifeunnecessarilyhardforthemselvesbyrebrandingKnockdhuasthestrangeandunpronounceableanCnoc,aGaelicwordmeaning‘thehill’.Thisbestoweduponthewhiskytheunenviabledistinctionofnolongerbeingnamedafterthedistillerythatproducesit,butitwasapparentlydonetoavoidconfusionwithKnockando.
Itseemsashame,becausethereismuchtocommendtheSpeysidesinglemaltsfromthislittle-knowndistillerybetweenKeithandBanff;inparticular,itsresolutelytraditionalstyleofoperation(somethingofasignaturewithInverHouse).Anold-fashioned,cast-ironmashtunisstillused,whilewoodenwashbacksmadefromDouglasfirarefavouredovermodernstainlesssteel.Moreimportantly,traditionisalsoproudlymaintainedbythecontinueduseofawormtub,oneofjustthirteenstillinoperationacrossallofScotland,helpingtogiveanCnocitsdepth,bodyandcharacteristicrich,meatyaroma.
AmildcuriosityaboutthedistilleryisthatithousedtroopsfromtheIndianarmyduringWorldWar2,alongwiththeirmulesandhorses.Apparently,thelocalresidentswouldturnouttowatchcavalrypractice–whattheridersthoughtofthisisnotrecorded!
The16YearsOldisarelativelyrecentrelease,andawelcomeone.Unusuallyitisexclusivelymaturedinex-bourboncasks,resultinginitsdeceptivelypalecolour.Theageisapparentonboththenoseandpalate,however,andthisisacomplexandsatisfyingwhisky,morerobustthantheappearancewouldleadyoutoexpect.InverHousearetobecommendedforreleasingthisat46%abvandnotchillfilteringthewhisky.Hopefullyitwillachievewiderdistributionandgreaterfame.ColourQuitepaleandstraw-like.Nose Slightlymedicinal;lemonzest;vanillatakesover.Taste Vanilla,liquoriceandspicenotes;toffeeandmarmalade.Finish Driftsgentlytoadryconclusion.Holdstogetherwell.
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5 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
GlenmorangieplcArdbeg,IslayYesWidespreadinternationalavailability
www.ardbeg.com
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Ardbeg
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10YearsOld
Ican’treallymakemymindupaboutArdbeg.Ilovetheplace,admirewhat’sbeendonethereandacknowledgethelegionsofpassionatefanswhohavesupportedthisiconicIslaydistillerysinceitreopenedin1997.ItalsohasthebestfoodofanydistilleryvisitorcentreIcancalltomind.
ButIalsofeelit’soverlypleasedwithitself.Personally,Ifindthefaux‘homespun’toneofmuchoftheirpromotiongrateswithme,especiallyasitseemstomethatitimpliesthatthisissometinyindependentstrugglingforsurvivalagainstruthlesscorporategiants,wheninfactit’sownedbyoneofthebiggestluxurygoodscompaniesontheplanet(LouisVuittonMoetHennessy).Anddon’tgetmestartedontheludicrous‘luxury’nonsensewhichisArdbeg’s£10,000DoubleBarrel.It’ssimplyabsurd.
However,there’snodenyingthatthecurrentteamhavedoneanexcellentjobandArdbegdoesproducesomedeeplylovedwhiskies,aslongasyoulikethempeaty.For,thisisarguablythebenchmarkIslaywhisky,againstwhichallothersmustbejudgedand,forthat,we’llforgiveitalot.
Thestandardisthe‘entry-level’TenYearsOldexpressionwhichcriticshaveravedabout.ThestillsatArdbegdifferfromothersonIslay,beingtallerandhavingacuriouspurifieronthespiritstill,thecombinationofwhichcontributestothefinesseanddelicacyofwhatisaveryhighlypeatedspirit.Certainlythisistrulycomplexwhiskyand,loveitorhateit,youjusthavetoexploreitsfiner,non-chillednuancesatleastonce.ColourApale, straw-colouredwhisky, setoffby theelegant, tall,greenglass
bottle.Nose Monstrouslypeaty,ofcourse,butwithattractivecitrusnotes;cinnamon
andpears.Taste The initial attack of the peat slowly gives way to cereal and barley
notes;tobacco,coffee,liquoriceandchocolate.Finish Smokyandslightlysweet;hintsofbarleylingerandyoumayfindsome
vanillanotes.
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6 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
GlenmorangieplcArdbeg,IslayYesInternationalspecialistoutlets
www.ardbeg.com
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Ardbeg
Uigeadail
HavingexpressedmypersonalreservationsaboutArdbeginthepreviousentry,Ireallyshould,inallfairness,addthatatleastonehighlyregardedcommentatorconsidersthisoneoftheverybestwhiskiesintheworldand,yearafteryear,poursalmostunlimitedpraiseonit.
Well,fairenoughifyoulikestrong,peatywhiskies.Theimpossible-to-pronounceUigeadail(it’snamedafterthelochfromwhichthedistillerydrawswater)isbothpeatyandverystrong(54.2%abv).Certainly,it’sbeenamassivesuccessandhasgonedownverywellwithArdbeg’sgrowinginternationalfanclub,solet’sacknowledgeitsappeal.
However,bewarned–thisisamonster.Fullofpeatsmoke,earthinessandlayersofoak,oil,morepeat(constantlyevolving),itisliabletodominateanythingelseyoudrinkthatday.Sosavethisforthelastdramortwooftheeveningandsavouratrulymightywhisky.Itisdefinitelyonetoexplore.
But,beingoldenoughtorememberwhenthisstyleofwhiskycouldhardlybegivenaway,Idohaveawiderconcern.ArdbegandPortEllenweren’tclosed,andotherIslaydistilleriesputonreducedworking,onawhim–blendersfoundthatalittlegoesalongwayandthosesinglemaltdrinkersthatwerearoundatthetimefeltmuchthesame.Thereisanelementoffashioninthecurrentwaveofenthusiasmforveryhighlypeatedwhiskiesand,iftheenthusiastswhoarebuyingthiswereevertomoveon,thentherecouldbeembarrassingquantitiesofnext-to-unsaleablewhiskylyinginScotland’swarehouses.
Youprobablydon’tagree.Justthinkaboutit,isallIask.Meanwhile,enjoythisandsavourallitsgloriousextremity.ColourQuitepaleandstrawcoloured.Nose Hintsoffinosherry,peatandslightlydampleather.Taste Multi-layeredandintense,creamy/oily,peatsmokeandlingeringfires;
earthyyetsweet.Driedfruits.
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Finish Verydominant;intriguing,layeredfinishwithspicehints;sweetnessbutultimatelydrying.
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7 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
CompassBoxWhiskyCompanyn/a–thisisablendinghousen/aMainlyUK,USAandFrance–butcheckonline
www.compassboxwhisky.com
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Asyla
I’dreallyliketorecommendalloftheCompassBoxwhiskies,butthatwouldbecheating,soI’vepickedthreetypicaloftheirstyleandapproach.Asylaisthefirst.Ifthatseemstofavourdisproportionatelywhatisstillaboutiqueoperation,evenasitentersitsseconddecade,youneedtounderstandthatthisisaratherdifferentwhiskycompany–aspecialistblendinghouseratherthanadistiller–drivenbythemessianicJohnGlaser,ananglophileAmericanwhostartedhiswhiskycareerwithDiageobutopenedhisown‘house’in2000,literallyblendinghisfirstofferingsinhisownhome.
Itispossibletotireoftheconsciouslyfunkynames.Personallyspeaking,IfindthestyleofCompassBox’swebsiteoverlyself-congratulatoryandtheinsistenceontheirrenegadestyleandfearlessoutsiderstancecansometimesgrate(Glaser’sbusinesscardoncecarriedthetitle‘WhiskyZealot’;ashiscountrymenwouldsay,‘Oh,puh-lease…’).Butthatmissesthepoint.
Asastackofawardswilltestify,CompassBoxisreveredbywhisky’schatteringclassesandispreciousclosetobecomingpartofthewhiskyestablishment(theymightdenythis)andthey’vegottherebymakingvery,verygoodwhiskyindeed.Buttheydon’t,infact,makeanything–whattheydoisblendsuperbsmallbatchwhiskiesfromvery,verycarefullyselectedcasks(mostofthem,ironically,fromGlaser’sformeremployer).
Toaddtoyourpleasuretheyaresuperblypackaged,witheleganttypographyonwittyanddistinctivelabels.Notcheapbutimmenselysatisfying,anyCompassBoxwhiskywillmarkyououtasadrinkeroftasteanddiscernment.Asylausesjustfourwhiskiesintheblend(singlemaltsfromLinkwood,GlenElginandTeaninich,andgrainwhiskyfromCameronBridge),butmarriesthemforupto12monthstocreateasweet,delicateaperitifwhiskythathasrightlywonhugeplaudits.ColourApalegoldenwhisky,setoffbytheelegant,tall,clearglassbottle.Nose Apple,vanillaandsomecerealnotes.Grassy.Taste This is sweet but not cloying; delicate and very subtle with great
complexity.LikeallCompassBoxwhiskiesitisexceptionallysmooth.
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Finish Slightlydrying.Somehintsofsmokemaybedetected.
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8 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailability
Price
MorrisonBowmoreDistillersAuchentoshan,Dalmuir,nrGlasgowYesWidespreadinternationalavailability
www.auchentoshan.co.uk
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Auchentoshan
Classic
Itseemsonlyrighttoincludeoneexampleofdistillinginthetrue,traditionalLowlandstyle–thatistosay,tripledistilled,likeIrishwhiskey.Auchentoshanisalsoashowpiecedistillery,beautifullymaintainedbyitsownersMorrisonBowmore(asubsidiaryoftheJapanesegroupSuntory)andthusalwaysapleasuretovisit.
Thedistillerywasestablishedround1817inopencountryside,sincewhichtimeresidentialdevelopmenthassurroundedtheplantanditnowappearsacuriousanachronisminanapparentlyurbansettingclosetothedramaticErskineBridgeovertheRiverClyde.Theownershavecapitalisedonthislocationbyopeningnotjustavisitorcentrebutalsoprovidingconferencefacilitiesforthebusinessmarket.
Therangeofwhiskieshasbeengreatlyincreasedinrecentyearsandanumberofdifferentexpressions,rightupto50yearsold,areoffered.Itislightanddelicateinstylebut,surprisingly,standsupwelltocaskfinishingwhenthisishandledwithduesensitivity–theThreeWoodisafineexampleofwhatcanbedoneandAuchentoshanseemstoagequitegracefully.PresumablythisreflectsshrewdcaskselectionbythepreviousownersandcontinuedinvestmentbySuntory.
TheresultofAuchentoshan’stripledistillingprocessisasmoothandverycleanspiritthatfinisheslifeatover80%abv,unusuallyhighfortheoutputofapotstill.Thereisanadmirablyclearanimateddiagramillustratingthisontheexcellentwebsite–itselfamodelofclarityandunfussyoperation.
Ifyoudon’tknowthiswhisky,thenIsuggestyoustartwiththesignatureClassic.It’snon-agedandthesoft,creamystylewillwinfriendseasily.Ifyoudon’tcareforit,orfindthatyouwantmorebody,don’tdespair–itsgentlestylemakesanexcellentbaseforwhiskycocktails,providinggripwithoutdominatingthedesiredflavour.Colour Pale and delicate – bottled quite young and matured in refill ex-
bourbon,thishasn’tpickedupmuchcolour.
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Nose Loadsofvanilla;freshandgrassy.Taste Malty, plenty of marzipan sweetness cut with lemon zest and green
apples.Finish Freshandfloral,butdoesn’tlinger.
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9 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
InverHouseDistillersLtdBalblair,Edderton,Ross-shireNoneSpecialists
www.balblair.com
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Balblair
Vintage1989
Balblairisjustalongtheroadfromitsmuchbetter-knownneighbourGlenmorangie(seeseparateentry)butmaintainsanaltogetherlowerprofile,perhapsrathergrudgingly.ThedistilleryisoneofaclutchownedandresurrectedbytheAirdrie-basedInverHouseDistillers,themselvesasubsidiaryoftheThaiconglomerateInterBev,whoseemtospecialiseintakingothercompanies’unlovedorphanchildrenandmakingsomethingofthem.
ItisoneoftheoldestdistilleriesstillinexistenceinScotland,datingbackto1790,thoughtherearerecordsofdistillingonthesiteasfarbackas1749.Itwasrebuiltinthe1870sbytheowners,theRossfamily(fouroutofthenineBalblairdistilleryworkersstillhavethesurnameRoss),andappearstohavechangedrelativelylittlesincethen,althoughitwasshutfrom1915to1947.InverHousearen’teasilypersuadedofthemeritsofchangeandtendtoadheretotraditionalmethodswheretheycan.Goodforthem.
Whatisnotparticularlytraditionalisthedecisiontoreleaseaseriesofvintageexpressions,ratherthanthemorenormalagedvariants.However,vintageshaveworkedverywellforTheGlenrothesandthereissomemeritintheargumentthatspiritcharacterdoesvaryfromyeartoyear.Italladdsvarietytoourshelvesandhasdefinitelyworkedinsalesterms.
TheBalblair1989vintagewasaGoldMedalwinnerinthe2007InternationalWine&SpiritsCompetition(IWSC)andjudged‘bestinclass’,andwasabigfavouriteofthecrowdatthe2008EdinburghWhiskyFringe(greatevent,trytogetaticket).Forme,itrepresentsanoptimumcompromisebetweenavailability,priceandquality:itshowsoffthedistillerystylewell,yetremainsaffordableandimmenselyquaffable.Colour Paleamber,mainlyfromex-bourboncasks.Nose Aromasofraisin,greenappleandhintsofbananaandcoconut.Taste Initially slightly harsh but rapidly evolves and warms, with spice,
lemon,raisinandsuggestionsofnuttyoak.
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Finish Some dried fruit, but finishes quite quickly. Hints of smoke and amarinenote.
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10 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
ChivasBrothersLtdn/a–thisisablendn/aSpecialists
www.ballantines.com
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Ballantine’s
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17YearsOld
Thisisawhiskywithaconsiderableanddistinguishedpedigree,largelyunappreciatedinitshomemarket.This,forabrandthatmarketsitselfwiththeslogan‘leaveanimpression’,ismorethanslightlyironic.It’sbecausethisisapremiumblendwhich,byandlarge,isastylethattheUKmarketdoesn’t‘get’.Notthatowners,ChivasBrothers,willbeespeciallybotheredbecauseBallantine’sishugeintheFarEastandintaxfree(airports,toyouandme).
Thenameisanhonouredone.TheoriginalGeorgeBallantinewasoneofthegiantsofVictorianwhiskyblending,startingfrommodestpremisesinEdinburghin1827but,lessthan60yearslater,exportingaroundtheworldwithastringofroyalwarrantstohisname.However,asisthewayofthespiritsindustry,thebrandchangedhandsseveraltimesbeforeChivasBrothersacquireditinJuly2005.
BetweentheirastutemarketingandtheskillsoftheirrenownedMasterBlender,SandyHyslop,Ballantine’shascomeroaringback.Fortunately,Hyslophasaveryfinerangeofbothgrainandsinglemaltwhiskiesfromwhichtopick,andtheexperienceandjudgementtoknowhowtoputthemtogether.
Probablythepickofthebunchisthe17YearsOld.Itispleasant,smooth,warmingandmellow.There’splentyofdepththere,butthisdoesnotassertitselfforcefully;ratheritslowlycharmsyouuntilyourealisewhataveryspecialdramitis.Talentedbutself-effacingandmodestwithit:thearchetypalupper-middle-classEdinburghprofessional,then.Itdoesleaveanimpression,afterall.Colour Brightgold.Nose Rounded, balanced and appetising. Some sweet notes and a hint of
smoke.Taste Mellowvanillatones,withmaturityshowinginbalancedwood,smoke
and cream. Surprisingly full bodied for 43% abv and after chillfiltration.
Finish Lingersagreeablyat thebackof thepalate,holding togetherwell andleavinghintsofmarinecharacter.
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11 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
BeamGlobalSpirits&Wine,Inc.JimBeam,ClermontDistillery,KentuckyYesSpecialistsandonline
www.smallbatch.com
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BasilHayden’s
It’sclaimedthattheHaydenfamilycanbetracedbacktotheyearsfollowingtheNormanConquestof1066.Oneancestor,SimondeHeydon,wasknightedbyRichardtheLionheartintheHolyLandduringtheThirdCrusadeinthe1190sandhisson,ThomasdeHeydon,madeJusticeItinerantofNorfolkbyHenryIII.Later,anotherancestorwasgrantedalargeestateinHertfordshire,inreturnforthefamily’smilitaryservice.Eventually,however,theyemigratedtotheVirginiaColonyinthe1660sinsearchofreligiousfreedom.
Itisfurtherclaimedthat,by1796,oneBasilHaydenwasamasterdistiller,bornandraisedinMaryland,wherehelearnedtomakewhiskeyfromrye.MovingtoKentucky,Haydenbeganmakingwhiskeyfromabaseofcorn,butaddedahigherpercentageofryethanotherdistillers,resultinginsmooth,mildbourbon.Well,that’sthestoryanyway.
OneoftheBeamSmallBatchbourbons,BasilHayden’sisuniqueinthatitutilisestwiceasmuchrye(30%)asothersmallbatchreleases(thoughBeamadoptasimilarapproachtothedistillationoftheirOldGrand-Dad).Unusuallyforpremiumbourbon,itisbottledat40%abv,typicallyataroundeightyearsofage,andisthelightestinstyleinthecollection.
Italwaysseemssomewhatover-packagedformytastewithatallandratherfemininebottlestrangelybisectedbyacopperband,butifyoulikeadryandmoredelicatetasteinyourbourbonthenthiswillappeal.It’salsoanexcellentcocktailbase.
LikealltheSmallBatchrange,thiscomesfromthelargeandratherutilitarianClermontdistillery,somewhattheantithesisofthesmallbatchphilosophy,butwhereyoucanatleastvisittheT.JeremiahBeamHomeandtheJimBeamAmericanOutpostandtryarangeofproducts.Colour Palegold.Nose Somecitrusnoteswithmintandspice.Taste Lighttomediumbody,delicateandaromatic.Honey,pepperandfading
spice.
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Finish Quiteshortbutholdstogether.
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12 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
TheBenRiachDistilleryCompanyLtdBenRiach,Elgin,MorayshireNone–tryphoningforanappointmentSpecialists
www.benriachdistillery.co.uk
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BenRiach
CuriositasPeated
BoredofwhiskieswithstrangeGaelicnames?WhynottryonewithsomeLatinpartofarangethatincludesHeredotusFumosusandImportanticusFumosus?Youjusthavetobecuriousabout‘Curiositas’.(It’sanexperimental,heavilypeatedSpeysider.)Thenamesmayseemabitcontrived,buthereisasmallindependentdistillergettingonwithlife,experimentingwithunusualwhiskiesandmanagingtodosowithoutdevelopingapersecutioncomplex.
BenRiach(Ihavenoideawhytheystickacapitalletterinthemiddle)waslyingmothballedfromaround1900untilitwasrebuiltandreopenedsixty-fiveyearslater.It’samiracleitsurvived,butitonlycarriedonuntilAugust2002whenitwasmothballedagain.
However,atthatpointitsluckchanged.Havingbeenownedbyaseriesoflargecorporations,BenRiachwasluckytobeacquiredbyindustryveteranBillyWalker,backedbytwoSouthAfricaninvestors.Theyhaveinvestedheavilyinthedistilleryand,inAugust2008,boughtGlendronachaswell,sothingsareobviouslygoingswimmingly.
Sadly,there’snovisitorcentre(thereisanexcellentoneatGlendronach)butitwouldbeworthaskingnicelyforapeek,especiallyastheymaintainashowpiecefloormalting(sadlyit’snotcurrentlyinuse).
Thereareanumberofreleases,somequitelimited,andexcitingplans.Thedistillerythemselvessaythattheirvisionis‘notonlytomaintainthegreattraditionsofthedistillerybuttobreaknewgroundwith“new”whiskyexpressionsand,borrowingfromthewiderworldofthenobleartofdistilling,to“craft”specialwhiskies,andintriguingexpressions’.Itsoundsexciting.Itisexciting.And,hopingthatthecorporategiantsdon’tswampthem,mytoasttoBenRiachis,‘nilcarborundumillegitimi!’Colour Palegold.Nose Peatonthisone,butnotasaggressiveasoftenfoundonIslay.Heather
flowersinbackground.
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Taste Medium weight, lots of peat attack, wood follows on with a spicyfruitiness.
Finish Plentyofthatpeatsmokebutlotsmoregoingontoteaseyouacapiteadcalcem*.
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13 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
Gordon&MacPhailBenromach,Forres,MorayshireYesSpecialists
www.benromach.com
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Benromach
Organic
Thereareanumberof‘organic’whiskiesoutthere–DaMhile(firstmadeatSpringbankbutnowLochLomond);HighlandHarvestblendedandBruichladdichwillsoonlaunchthefirstIslayOrganicwhisky,distilledinDecember2003andnowapproachingfullmaturity.
Personally,Ican’tseethatitmattersallthatmuchinadistilledspiritbut,ifyoucareaboutthesethings,youwillbeinterestedinthisofferingfromBenromach,Gordon&MacPhail’stinydistilleryontheoutskirtsofForres.SofarasIcansee,it’sthefirstandsofartheonlywhiskywherethewholeprocess–rawingredients,distillation,maturation,bottling–iscertifiedtotheSoilAssociation’srigorousorganicstandards.
Thisdoes,however,addsomethingofinteresttothewhiskyenthusiast.ForonethingthebarleyusedformaltingcomesfromaScottishfarm(notallbarleyusedtomakeScotchisScottish,whichmaycomeassomethingofasurprise)andthebarrelsarefromvirginoak.Thisisunusual–it’sgenerallyheldthatbrandnewoakbarrelsexerttooassertiveaninfluenceontheflavourofScotchwhisky,hencethealmostuniversalpresenceofbarrelsthathavebeenseasonedbyprevioususe.However,Benromachappeartohavecarriedthisoffand,whileclearlyevident,thewooddoesnotdominate.
Thedistillersclaimthatthecasksare‘handselected’–anice-soundingbut,asfarasIcansee,essentiallymeaninglessclaimsincesofarasIamaware,noonehasyetinventedamachinetoselectcasks–andmadefromnatural,wild-growingforest.Thetreesarenotsprayedwithpesticidesoranyotherformofchemicalpriortofelling(butthentheywouldn’t,being‘wild’)orindeedafter.
Quitehowyousquareyourgreenconcernswiththefellingofnaturalwildforestisamatterforyourownconscience,ofcourse.You’llprobablydrinkthiswhilereadingtheGuardian.Colour Rich,deepgold.Nose Lotsofwoodimpact,ofcourse,butfruitsandvanillapods.
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Taste Woodwetakeforgrantedhere,butfruitcompoteandsomesweetnessalsoevident.
Finish Aglowofliberal,green-tintedvirtue.
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14 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
HeavenHillDistilleries,Inc.Bernheim,Louisville,KentuckyYesSpecialists
www.bernheimwheatwhiskey.comseealsowww.heaven-hill.com
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Bernheim
OriginalWheatWhiskey
‘Unique’and‘original’aregrosslyover-usedterms,thoughIthinkprobablyjustifiedhere.ThisAmericanwhiskeyismadewithwinterwheatasitsprincipalingredient(aminimumof51%)alongwiththemoreconventionalrye,barleyandcorn.Assuch,itisthefirstreallynewAmericanwhiskeysinceProhibitionandisarguablyrevivingadistillingstylefromthe1700s.Naturally,astheworld’sonlystraightwheatwhiskey,ithasattractedalotofattentionfromenthusiastsanxiousforanewtastesensation.Atthetimeofwritingitistheonlyexampleofthisstyle,thoughpresumably,ifitssuccesscontinues,we’llseeotherdistillersofferingsomethingsimilarinthenearfuture.
Thedistilleryitselfhashadaninterestinghistory.ItwasbuiltonthesiteoftheoldAstorandBelmontdistilleries,whichweredemolishedbyUnitedDistillers,theforerunnerofDiageo,beforethebrandnewBernheimplantwasconstructedin1992.UnderDiageobourbonwasnotregardedasapriorityand,in1999,theHeavenHillCompanyacquiredthefacility,whichtodaymakesitthelastprivatelyowneddistilleryinKentucky.Amongotherbrands,HeavenHillBourbonandRittenhouseRyeisdistilledhere,allofwhichcanbeseeninthefinenewBourbonHeritageCentre,WhiskyMagazine’s2009VisitorAttractionoftheYear(thereisa$50‘behindthescenes’tour).BernheimOriginalisdistilledherebutagedforaminimumoftwoyearsinnewcharredwhiteoakbarrelsinRickhouseYatHeavenHill’ssiteatBardstown,NelsonCounty.
Launchedin2005BernheimOriginalWheatWhiskeyhasbenefitedfrominterestinsmallbatchproductionandcraftdistillation.Asaninnovativesalutetotraditionitisinterestingbutthewhiskeyitselfholdsupwell.Colour Pale,especiallybycomparisontobourbon.Nose Adelicatenoseoffersbutteredtoast,spicesandsomefruits.Cleanand
refreshinglemonzest.Taste Fruitandnut.Mediumbodied;sweetbutnotcloying.Finish Crispandspicy.Hintsofnuts.
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15 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
BurnStewartDistillersLtdn/a–thisisablendn/aWidespreadinternationalavailability
www.blackbottle.com
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BlackBottle
IwasreallyhopingtowriteaboutBlackBottle’s10-year-oldbrother.Thiswaslaunchedin1998but,sadly,hasbeenwithdrawn,lastingasabrandonlyslightlylongerthanthewhiskyinthebottle.However,ifyou’rereallyquickyoumightfindtheoddbottleonadustyshelfsomewhere.Ifso,grabitwithouthesitation,especiallyifyoulikethepeatystuff.
Thestandardstyleismorethanrespectable,however.It’soneofthoseclassicVictorianblendsthatstartedlifeinagrocer’sshop,inthiscaseinAberdeen,andwentontochangethefortunesofthefamilyfirm,GordonGraham&Co.And,asisthewayofthesestories,eventuallythefamilyhadtosellupandthebrandwentthroughaseriesofchanges,somelessthansuccessful.
EventuallyitendedupownedbyBurnStewartDistillerswho,withoutlavishingmoneyonit,havegivenitatleastsomeofthetenderlovingcareitcriedoutfor.Theyhavetreateditwithappropriaterespectandimprovedthequality(actually,that’sarecurringcommentonanumberoftheirwhiskiesgenerally–seeDeanstonandTobermory,inparticular).
Apparently,initsearliestdays,eachbottlewaswrappedintissuepaperwhichcarriedthisverse,generallyattributedtoWalterLandor:
IfuponmythemeIrightlythink,TherearefivereasonswhyIdrink:Goodwine.Afriend.BecauseI’mdry.BecauseImightbebyeandbye.Oranyotherreasonwhy!
WhyyoumightwanttodrinkBlackBottleistoenjoyabig,smoky,Islay-dominatedblend(there’sabitofDeanstonintherealso,butit’sratherswampedbythepeat)thatisrathermorerefreshingandeasiertodrinkthanmanyotherpeat-dominateddrams.It’snotexpensiveeither,makingitagoodeverydaystandby.Colour Pale,brightgold.
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Nose Surprisinglylight,freshandfruitywithpeatinthebackground.Taste Well balancedwith a delightful sweetness acting as a kind of smoke
extractor!Finish Thepeatnotesstarttocomethroughattheendasthewhiskydiesaway;
moreembersthansmoke.
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16 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
Availability
Price
HighlandDistillersn/a–thisisablendTheFamousGrouseExperienceatGlenturret,nearCrieffWidespreadinternationalavailability
www.thefamousgrouse.comseealsowww.black-grouse.com
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BlackGrouse
ThereseemspreciouslittlepointintellinganyoneaboutTheFamousGrouse,asithaslongbeenestablishedasScotland’sbest-sellingblendedScotch,supportedbythosevaguelyannoyingbutactuallymildlyamusingTVcommercialswiththeear-wormofatune–soIwon’t.Ifdesperate,youcanlearnmoreattheirwebsite(Ifinditrathertiresomeandcontrived;mightjustbeme)orevenvisitTheFamousGrouseExperienceatGlenturretdistillerynearCrieff,essentiallyanover-blownvisitorcentre,shopandseveralrestaurants,andtrytofindthetinydistillerysomewhereinthemiddleofitall.
Butsomethinghasbeenstirringinthenestinrecentyearsandthegrousehasbroughtforthaclutchofinterestingnewfledglingswithsomediscreettestmarketinggoingonastheytrytostretchthebrand.Twothathavesuccessfullyflownthenest(sorry,that’sthelasttediouspun)aretheSnowGrouse,aharshlychill-filteredblendedgrain,aboutwhichthelesssaidthebetter,andtheBlackGrouse.
It’scuriousthatitshouldfollowimmediatelyonfromBlackBottle,becausethisisanotherIslay-influenced,peatyblend.Ironic,then,youmaythink,thatHighlandDistillerssoldtheironlyIslaydistillery(Bunnahabhain)in2003(notthatitwasparticularlynotedforpeatedwhiskiesatthattimeanyway).
Anyway,notingthefashionforsmokywhiskies,theblendershavefashionedthissmoothandaromaticdrop,whichseemstobefindingfavouramongpeatfreaks,notleastforitscompetitivepricing.TheFamousGrousepack(orcovey)appearstonumbernineandcountingnow,thoughIdaresaymorewillhavehatchedbythetimethisgetsintoprint(sorry,Ididn’teventrytoresistit).ColourAmature,rich,copperygold.Nose Smokyandspicybutnotassertiveorharsh.Taste Pleasantly well-balanced, smooth and mouth coating; some signature
GrousesweetnessbutdevelopsspiceandfruitcharacterasSpeysideandIslaymerge.
Finish Cocoaandspicesbutwithafadingsmokecharacter.
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17 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
Co-ordinatedDevelopmentServicesLtdBladnoch,Wigtown,KirkcudbrightshireYesSpecialists
www.bladnoch.co.uk
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Bladnoch
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8YearsOld
Isthisthebestwhiskyinthisbook?Probablynot,butyoushouldstillbuyabottle–andhere’swhy.
Bladnoch,oneoftheverylastLowlanddistilleriesandScotland’smostsoutherlydistillery,wasclosedinJune1993byUDV(nowDiageo).AnIrishbuilderandpropertydeveloper,RaymondArmstrong,boughtthesite.
Unlikelyasitnowseems,heplannedtoredevelopthebuildingsforhousing.Butthewhiskygodswerenottobesoeasilydistractedand,aftersometime,Armstrongbegantounderstandwhatthedistillerymeanttothelocalcommunity.Sohedeterminedtostartdistillingagain.
Thatwasn’tquiteaseasyasitsoundsandUDV,whohadsoldonthestrictunderstandingthatBladnochwastobetakenoutofproduction,tooksomepersuadingtopermitevenlimiteddistilling.But,attheriskofracialstereotyping,Armstronghastheblarneyandisbothpersistentandcharming.Eventuallyhegotthemtorelentand,inDecember2000,Bladnochwentbackintoproduction.
Forthisheattainedtherankofwhiskyheroandisreveredamongaficionados.Heisalsoathoroughlyamenableandagreeablefellow,happytopassthetimeofdaywithyouifyoudropin,andanall-roundgoodegg.Today,thesiteispleasantlybusy,hasacharminghomespunvisitorcentreandtheyrunanopen-spiritedandgenerousdiscussionforumontheirwebsite.
ThefirstwhiskydistilledunderArmstrong’sbenevolentandaffableownershipwasreleasedinOctober2009attheWigtownBookFestival.Buyabottleandhelpkeepadreamalive:it’sanobleandworthycause.Everybottlesoldhelps.Colour Palestraw.Nose Lemonzest,oakandvanilla.Slightlyspiritybutwithnuttysuggestions.Taste Lighttomediumbody,butmouthcoating.Loadsofvanillaandcrème
brûléeflavours.
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Finish Not the longest finish ever, light with some spice notes. Just buy itanyway.
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18 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
BerryBros&Ruddn/a–thisisablendNo–butvisittheirLondonshopSpecialists
www.bbr.com
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BlueHanger
Toppeople’swinemerchantsBerryBros&Rudd,withtheirelegantpremisesinLondon’sStJames’sStreet,isnotthefirstplaceyou’dgotofindabargain.Butthereisonelurkingthere.Remember,whileyoumightassociatethemwithclassedgrowthclaret,thesearethefolkswhocreatedCuttySarksotheydoknowtheirwhisky.
Thislittlecrackeriswhat’sknownasablendedmalt;thatistosay,ablend(ormixture)ofseveralsinglemaltswithnograinwhiskyatallallowedtotheparty.Berry’swhiskyguyisthehighlyregardedDougMclvor.YouknowallyouneedtoknowaboutDougwhenItellyouthatofalltheblendersintheScotchwhiskyindustryhewastheoneentrustedwiththesamplesfromthelateMichaelJackson’s*whiskylibrarytocreateamemorialblend.
Forthisfourthrelease,DoughascombinedthreeSpeysidemalts:GlenElgin,GlenlivetandMortlach,rangingfrom16to34yearsold.Hehimselfdescribesthewhiskyashaving‘astronginfluencefromSherrycasksbutItrytoreinthisintoofferbalanceandcomplexityfromtheothercasks’.That’salittlemodest:thepreviousreleaseofBlueHangerwasacomfortablewinnerintheblendedmaltclassinthe2008WorldWhiskiesAwardsandit’sgenerallyagreedthatwiththisfourthreleasehehassurpassedeventhathighstandard.What’smoreagreeableisthatit’sbottledat45.6%andyouwillpayaround£60forabottle.Justpraytheydon’tdecidetoputitinsomelavishpackaging.
TheunusualnamecomesfromWilliamHanger,3rdLordColeraine,aloyalcustomerofBerry’sduringthe18thcentury.Hewasrenownedforwearingstrikingblueclothes,andgainedthesobriquet‘BlueHanger’.Youdon’thavetodressuptoshopthere,butItoldyoutheywereposh.ColourDark–ageandsherrycasksshowinghere.Nose Richandpromising;stewedfruitsandsomesuggestionofcitrus.Taste Leather, vanilla and stewedpear hints developing to cream fudge and
richorange.Fullbodied.Finish Dry,withhintsofsmokeandnuts.
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19 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
Glenmorangieplcn/a–thisisablendn/aSpecialists
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BNJ
BailieNicolJarvie
What’sthisdoinghere?Youmaywellask,sinceitseemstomethattheownersclearlydon’tcare.BailieNicolJarvie(‘BNJ’toitscoterieofdedicatedfans)appearstobetheunlovedand,itwouldseem,unwantedruntofthelitterintheGlenmorangiestable.Buttheyhaven’tkilleditoffwithneglectanddisinterest,norhavetheymanagedtosellittosomeonewhowouldlavishonitthetenderlovingcarethatitsoevidentlydeserves(though,aswegotoprint,thereareunconfirmedrumoursthatit’sbeingofferedforsale,soitmaybeinnewhandsbythetimeyoureadthis).
Theblendhasbeenaroundforyears(Ihaveseenaverylovelypre-wardecanterinaHighlandshootinglodge–reallythiswhisky’snaturalhabitat)andisreputedtocontainanuncommonlyhighpercentageofsinglemaltwhisky,mostprobablyGlenmorangieandGlenMoray.Theresultisasubtleandcomplex,thoughrelativelylight-bodied,blendthathasquietlyattractedadmirersamonginformeddrinkers.
It’sentirelyirrelevantbutitalsohasagreatlabel.JustthoughtI’dmentionit,asitmarksyououtasadrinkeroftasteanddiscernment,capableoflookingbeyondritzypackagingtotimelesselegance.Moreimportantly,itisfantasticvalue.
Thatmightexplaintheowners’reluctancetopushsales:withthismuchtop-qualitysinglemaltintheblendthepriceissimplytoolowifitbecomesasuccess,especiallygiventhecostofbuildingabrand.Sogetinfast.Fillyerboots.Thiscan’tlastandyouneedtogetsomewhileyoustillcan.Colour Paleandinteresting.Nose Fresh and floral, with theGlenmorangie influence evident. Pears and
grassynotes–veryelegant.Taste A very well-balanced, well-mannered whisky. Just a hint of smoke
coveringdelicateperfumednotes;freshfruitandhazelnuts.Finish Subtleanddelicate.Arapierofawhiskybutwithakilleredgeofspice,
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chocolateandtoffee.
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20 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
MorrisonBowmoreDistillersBowmore,IslayYesSpecialists
www.bowmore.co.uk
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Bowmore
Tempest
Islay’soldestdistillery(foundedin1779,orpossiblyevenearlier)retainsafloormaltingwhichproducesaroundonethirdofthemaltedbarleyrequiredbytheoperation.Youcantakeatourwhichincludesthemaltingfloorandyoumaybepermittedtolookintothekilnwithitshairclothfloor(theperforatedmetalsheetontowhichthegrainisspreadtobedried).Evenwithnofireunderneath,thewholeplaceretainstherichlyaromatic,almostpungent,smellofpeatsmoke.
Andthat,ofcourse,iswhatIslayisreallyallaboutandwhatmakesthewhiskiessospecial.Formymoney,Bowmoreisoneofthebetterbalanceddramsproducedhereandthepeatcontent(measuredinpartspermillionofphenols)isalittlelowerthansomeofitsmoreassertiveneighbours.Notthatthisshouldmakeyoumakethemistakeofthinkinganylessofit.Thisisveryfinewhiskyandishighlysoughtafter–rareandoldexpressionsofBowmoreareoneofthemostvaluableofwhiskycollectablesandfeatureregularlyinwhiskyauctions.Indeed,an1850bottlingsoldinSeptember2007forathenworld-recordpriceof£29,400,thoughnotwithoutattractingsomecontroversyandspeculationastoitsauthenticity.Presumablythebuyerwashappy.
However,youcanpickupabottleoftheirTempest–atasty,caskstrength,non-chillfiltered,10-year-oldBowmoreforaround£40,whichmakesitsomethingofabargain.It’llneverbeworth£29,000butthat’snotthepoint.Thisisonetodrinkandsavour,andisprobablymycurrentfavouritefromanextensiveandimpressiverangethathasenjoyeddeservedsuccessinrecentyears.
Try,ifyoucan,togettothedistillery.ThetouriswellmanagedandthebaratthevisitorcentreoffersastunningviewoverLochIndaal,whichiscapableofsoothingthesoulofeventhemoststressed-outurbansophisticate.Colour Brightgold.Nose Peatsmokeandsalt,hintsoforangecrèmebrûléeandhoney.Taste ThesignaturesubtleBowmorepeatsmoke to the fore,withsaltanda
playfulcitrusnote.
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Finish Amaritimefarewell,peatsmokeoverastormysea,butcleanandfresh.
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21 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
BruichladdichDistilleryCompanyBruichladdich,IslayYesSpecialistsandsomesupermarkets
www.bruichladdich.com
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Bruichladdich
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12YearsOldSecondEdition
IspentalongtimeponderingoverwhetherornottoincludeBruichladdichandeventuallydecidedthat,despitewhatyou’reabouttoread,Ilovethemreally.Trytokeepthatinmind!
Mindyou,theydomakeithard.Ifit’snotthepreposterousclaimsontheirwebsite(‘pre-industrialdistillingtechniques’indeed?Fromadistillerybuiltin1881…),orwhatseemstothiscommentatoratleastapersistentlychippyattitudeandobsessivebeliefthateveryoneisouttodothemdown,thenitmustbethetediouslyself-aggrandisingclaims(apparently,theyare‘TheMaltCrusaders:fiercelyindependent,non-conformist,innovative–theenfantterribleoftheindustry’).Infact,they’reindangerofbecomingtheMillwallfansofwhisky(‘noonelikesus,wedon’tcare’).
Actually,despitethewavesofsycophanticpublicity–atleastoneratherobsequiousbook,regularTVappearancesandadocumentaryhasbeenbroadcastaboutthem(publicitythattheaveragemarketingmanagerwouldkillfor)–thetruthisthatnoone’sthatbotheredbytheirantics.Ifonlytheywouldconcentrateonmakingwhiskysincetheydoitsovery,verywell.
Butthedifficultyhereisfindingonetopick.Bruichladdichare(in)famousforanever-endingseriesofreleasesandfinishes(exceptinBruichladdich-speakthey’renot‘finishes’,sonowI’llbeinevenmoretrouble)thatrolloffIslaywithmind-numbingfrequency.Thereisasortofstrangelogic,butitreliesonhavingaveryBruichladdich-centricworldviewtoappreciateit.
Anyway,justtobeclear:thedistilleryisawonderfultimecapsule;thepeoplearepassionate;theymakewonderfulwhiskyandaren’tafraidtotrynewthings;andtheyhavebroughtalotofheat(andsomelight)totheScotchwhiskyscene.Sostartoffwiththe12YearsOld,whichisasnearasyouwillgettoastandardexpression.Expensivebycomparisonwithothermaltsofasimilarage,butwhatdoyouexpectfromrenegades?Colour Brightgold.
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Nose Lotsgoingon:refined,floral,fruityandsubtle.Taste Fairlylightbodiedbutnotwithoutinterest.Startssweet,fruitdevelops,
thenvanillaandoak.Finish Fadesgentlyawaywiththefruitnotesdryingasitends.
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22 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
TheSazeracCompanyBuffaloTrace,FranklinCounty,KentuckyYesSpecialists
www.buffalotrace.comseealsowww.bourbonwhiskey.com
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BuffaloTrace
Anoutstandingandhighly-awardeddistillerofKentuckyStraightBourbon,theBuffaloTracedistillerywasfoundedin1857,thoughtherewasdistillingonthesitesomeseventyyearsearlier.BuffaloTracehasthedistinctionofbeingthefirstproducerofsinglebarrelbourbonwiththe1984releaseofBlanton’s.
AnumberofbrandsareproducedhereaswellasBuffaloTrace:EagleRare,Blanton’s,RockHillFarms,Hancock’s,ElmerT.Lee,SazeracRyeandW.L.Weller,amongothers.Butitisthedistillery’sownlabelthatwe’reconcernedwith,firstintroducedin1999.Itfoundrapidacceptanceandacclaim.Todaytheycanboastontheirwebsitethat‘thedistilleryhaswonmoreinternationalawardssince1990thananyotherNorthAmericandistillery,earningmorethan140distinctionsinnationalandinternationalcompetitions’.
AttheheartofitisthisfineexampleofKentuckyStraightBourbon.Thedistillersbelievethatcertainfloorsofsomeoftheirwarehouses(romantically,theyarenamedaswarehousesC,IandK)producethebestspirit,andsmallbatchesofthebestcasksareselectedforBuffaloTrace.Thesegothroughafurtherselectionbyatastepanelandasfewas25barrelsarethenmarriedandbottled.
Interestingly,thethreewarehousessharesimilarconstruction:theyarerickwarehousesconstructedfromlargewoodbeamsandsurroundedbyabrickshell.Eachhasanearthfloor(likeadunnagewarehouseinScotland)and,duringthewinter,steamispumpedthroughoutthewarehousestocompensateforthedramaticdropintemperature.Thishastheeffectofforcingthewhiskeytomaturefaster–whichisjustgreatbecauseitgetstousthatlittlebitquicker!
BuffaloTraceiswelldistributedingoodspecialistsintheUK.I’dsayitwastheperfectintroductiontobourbon,afterwhichotherbrandsatthispricepointwilldisappoint.Colour Lightbronze.Noaddedcolour.Nose Vanilla,mint,spiceandsomecitrushints.Taste Sweetwithvanilla,cinnamon,brownsugarandoakwood.
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Finish Quitelonganddrying.
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23 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
BurnStewartDistillersLtdBunnahabhain,IslayYes–modestfacilitiesatthedistillerySpecialists
www.bunnahabhain.com
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Bunnahabhain
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18YearsOld
IaminordinatelyfondofBunnahabhain.Ioncespentawonderfulholidaythere(youcanrentoneoftheformerdistillerycottages)anditisoneofthequietestandmostrelaxingplacesthatyou’lleverfind.
Thedistilleryitselfismorefunctionalthanpicturesquebutitliesattheheartofaprettybay,withexceptionalviewsovertheSoundofJura.SinceIspenttimethere,BunnahabhainhasbeensoldtoBurnStewart,asmallScotchwhiskydistillingcompanyultimatelyownedinTrinidad,andthishasbeenathoroughlygoodthing.
Previously,itwasratherdwarfedbyitsglamorousstablemates,TheMacallanandHighlandPark.Nowitmaybeinasmallerpond,butit’sabiggerfishandallthemorecomfortableforthat.TheestablisheddistillingteamlargelystayedintactbutaninjectionofTLCfollowedthetransferofownershipandsomeinterestingwhiskieswerequicklyprisedoutofthewarehouses.
Whereoncetherewasonlyasomewhatanodyne12-year-oldversion,todaythereareseveralagedexpressionsandoccasional–andusuallyinterestingandrewarding–specialeditions.Recommendedhereforitsblendofqualityandvalueisthe18-year-oldstyle.Thisisnotheavilypeated,thoughthedistilleryisexperimentingwiththisstyle.Ifyoulikepeat,lookoutforwhattheycalltheirMòineorToiteachstyles(hardtofind,though).
IfyouevergettoIslayit’seasytoforgetaboutBunnahabhain,whichliessomewhatoutoftheway.Thatwouldbeamistake:it’swellworthavisit.Colour Bright,richgold.Nose Hintsofhoneyandnuts;soft,elegant,withmildaromasofsherry.Taste Caramel toffee,old leatherandoak.Asalt influencemaybedetected,
withmintandsweetspice.Finish Well balanced, drying, with sherry and spice notes. Slight hints of
fadingsmoke.
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24 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
DiageoBushmills,Co.Antrim,NorthernIrelandYesSpecialists
www.bushmills.com
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Bushmills
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16YearsOld
Doesitactuallymatterwhenadistillerywasfounded?Imean,ifyouthoughtthatBushmillsdatedfrom,say,1784ratherthan,say,1608wouldyoubuyanyless?Thedistillerymakesgreatplayoftheearlierdate,emphasisingitontheirbottlesandlabels,whilebeingrathercoyaboutthefactthatthisrelatestoagenericlicencetodistilintheirgeneralareaandthattheBushmillstrademarkdoesn’tfirstappearuntil176yearslater.Well,what’sacenturyortwoamongfriends?Afterall,theircompetitorshavealldisappearedand1784wasaverylongtimeago(itmarkedtheformalendoftheAmericanWarofIndependence,foronething).Tobefair,thewebsitedoesclearupthe1608thing,sowe’llletthemoff.
Bushmills,nowpartoftheDiageostable,isNorthernIreland’slastsurvivingdistillery–andalargeandsuccessfuloneitisatthat.Havingsurvivedahugefire,Prohibition,avigoroustemperancemovementandcompetitionfromScotchwhisky,Bushmillshasentereditsfifth(orpossiblythird,dependingontheabove)centuryingreatshape.
ThestandardBushmillsandtheslightlypremiumBlackBusharebothblends(curiously,thegrainwhiskycomesfromtheRepublicwhereit’smadeatMidleton,bytheirgreatcompetitor)butthedistilleryoffersthree100%maltedbarleysinglemalts,at10,16and21yearsofage.
Thereisanexcellentvisitorcentreatthedistilleryand,bytakingthetour,youcanseetripledistillationinaction.FromtheBushmillsrange,I’veselectedthe16YearsOldsinglemalt.Theextraageanduptoayear’sfinishinginportwoodaddcolouranddepthofflavourtowhatisalreadyveryfinespirit.The21YearsOldismuchhardertofindandsignificantlymoreexpensive.Colour Theattractiverubyredtintisaclearsignalofportfinishing.Nose Waves of fruit on the nose, immediately appealing sweet notes and
somewoodgetsthrough.Taste Morefruit,butalsomaltycarameltoffeeandsomechocolate.Medium
tofullbodied.
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Finish Sinuous waves of complexity – a reminder of all the flavours in theglass–fadingdelightfullyslowly.
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25 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
DiageoCameronBridge,FifeNoneSpecialists
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CameronBrig
Thisisgrainwhisky–Scotland’sequivalentofthemadauntintheatticwhonoonetalksabout.ButtheScotchwhiskyindustryabsolutelydependsonitbecauseitisatthebasisofblending.IftherewasnograinwhiskytherewouldbenoJohnnieWalker,noFamousGrouse,noBallantine’sandsoon–andfarfewersinglemalts,too,asalmostallsinglemaltdistilleriesrelyonblendedwhiskiestotakethemajorityoftheiroutput.
Sowhysocoy?Well,grainwhiskyisproducedonanindustrialscalebyasomewhatdifferentprocessthansinglemalt,usingcheaperingredients.Generallyspeaking,graindistilleriesaren’tprettyandtheydon’tconformtotheimagethattheindustrylikestosellus.What’smore,mostgrainwhiskyisusedwithinafewmonthsofitsmaturationandisvaluedmoreforitsrelativelyblandflavourthananydistinctivequalities(thereareexceptions,ofcourse,butthisisbroadlytrue).
However,afewgrainwhiskiesaremarketedintheirownrightandit’sworthtryingoneortwojusttoexpandyourwhiskyeducation.CompassBox’sexcellentHedonismisone(seeseparateentry)butit’shardtofindandunusualinthatitisblendedgrain.Foralotlessmoney,trackdownabottleofCameronBrig.Itwon’tbeeasybutit’sworththetrouble.
Ifyoudon’tcareforityoucanalwaystryyourhandatmakingyourownblend.Takeanemptybottle,fillitjustoverhalffullwiththeCameronBrigandaddafewofyourfavouritesinglemalts.Shakewell,saythemagicwordsand,heypresto,you’reablender!ColourWarmgold.Nose Cleanandgrassy.Unpeated,solightandrefreshing.Taste Honeyandspice.Warmingandsmooth(non-agedbutpresumablyeight
totenyearsold).Finish Subtleandsurprisinglycomplex.
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26 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
DiageoCaolIla,IslayYesSpecialists
www.malts.com
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CaolIla
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12YearsOld
It’sgreattobeabletorecommendwhiskieslikethis–virtuallyunknownlittlesecretsthat,oncetasted,areneverforgotten.CaolIla(pronounced‘cowleela’–Gaelicspeakerslookawayplease)mustbeoneofthemostdramaticallylocatedofallofScotland’sdistilleries.It’sattheendofaprecipitousroadjustoutsidePortAskaigonIslay,rightonthesea,oppositetheislandofJura.FromtheManager’sofficewindowyoucanseeseals,ottersandallkindsofinterestingseabirds,nottomentiontheamazingtopographyofJuraandthefamousPaps(stopsniggering,they’regreatbighills).
Butthat’swhatnotmakesitsogreat.ThisisprobablytheunsungheroofIslay’srenownedwhiskies,largelybecausevirtuallyalloftheannualproductionisrequiredforblendingandtheowners,Diageo,hardlypromotethesinglemalt.Theydo,however,grudginglyreleasesomeexpressions–butthesearegenerallyquitepricyifyoudon’tknowyoulikethemandareoftenrestrictedinavailabilityanyway.
Sowhynotstartwiththestandard12YearsOld?It’sprobablythebestbalancedoftheCaolIlaexpressionsandaclassicofitskind.IncommonwithmostIslaysinglemaltsit’sforloversofsmokywhisky.Likeitsbetter-knownneighboursatLagavulin,LaphroaigandArdbeg,it’saforceful,peat-soakedmonster,butsomedrinkersfinditalittlesweeterthanthese.
Therearesomeotherversions,includinganunpeatedversion(whybother?),butthisistheoneyou’relookingfor.Ifyoulikethisyoucanmoveontoitsbigbrotherat18YearsOldandthentryoneofthemanymerchantbottlingsthatareoutthere.Butthisistheplacetostart.ColourAlightcolouredwhisky.Nose The sweetmalt hits one initially, followed by peat, treacle toffee and
gentlelemon/citrus.Taste Medicinal, but not aggressively so; wet grass, linseed oil and smoky
wood. Add water to release sweet biscuits and more smoky, meatynotes.
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Finish Peatsmokeandlemonpuddingbattleitouttotheend!
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27 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
ChivasBrothersLtdn/an/aSpecialistsanddutyfree
www.chivas.com
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ChivasRegal
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25YearsOld
Yougetwhatyoupayfor,orsothesayinggoes.Hereyoupayratheralot–typicallyaround£180intheUK,tobeprecise–around4to5timesthepriceofitsjuniorpartner,the18-year-oldstyle.Sowhatdoyouget?Apartfromaverynicebottle,anextraheavyweightstopperandnicepackaging,thatis?
UsingmainlySpeysidesinglemalts,withStrathislaatitsheart,ChivasRegal25isthecreationofChivasMasterBlenderColinScottwhodescribesitas‘theverypinnacleoftheblend’.Accordingtothecompany,theblendincludesaproportionofvattedmalts,whichhavebeenmarryinginwoodforwhatisdescribedas‘averylongperiodoftime’.Scott,widelyrespectedintheindustry,hasbeendoingthisforaverylongperiodoftimehimselfandhasexcelledhimselfherewiththepickoftheenviableChivasmaltwarehouses.
Along-standingfavouriteluxuryblendat12yearsold,ChivasRegalwasinitiallylaunchedbytheoriginalownersasa25-year-oldbackin1909andwasarguablytheworld’sfirstsuper-premiumwhisky.Untilthisrelease,however,ithadonlyrecentlybeenavailableat12and18yearsold.The25YearsOldissmooth,sumptuousandveryrich,withfruitandnutnotes,hintsofrichchocolateorangeandasubtlysmokyfinish.
Withaworldwidereleaseofwhatisnecessarilyalimitedquantityofwhisky,initialstocksweretargetedatmarketssuchastheUSAandtheFarEastbutyoucanfindthisingoodspecialists.Withitshandsomepresentation,itmakesawonderfulandgenerousgift–ifyoucanbeartopartwithit!ColourArich,darkgoldentone.Nose Orangeandripepeach;Christmascakeandnuts.Taste Rich and very full, the age showing clearly but with great vitality.
Everythingfromthenosebutmore.Andmorebesides.Finish Hints of smoke linger on in a well-balanced and well-mannered
conclusion.
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28 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
DiageoClynelish,Brora,SutherlandYesSpecialistsanddutyfree
www.malts.com
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Clynelish
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14YearsOld
TwodistinguishedjudgesofwhiskyestablishedClynelish’sreputationasasinglewhiskymorethan80yearsago:bothProfessorGeorgeSaintsbury(inNotesonaCellar-Book)andhisstudentAeneasMacDonald(Whisky)drewattentiontoitsexceptionalquality.Except,ofcourse,thatitwasnottheClynelishthatwedrinknowthattheyenjoyed,fortheoriginaldistillerywasactuallyclosedin1983.Tosampleanythingresemblingthespiritthattheypraisesohighlyyou’llneedtofindseveralhundredpoundsforabottleof30-year-oldBrora.
Whentheownersdecidedtoclosetheoriginal1819distillery,theytransferedthenametothenewplant.Buttheolddistillerywasthenreopenedin1967,mainlytoproduceheavilypeatedmaltforblending,andbothproducedClynelishuntiltheBroranamewasgiventotheoriginaldistilleryin1975.Itwasneverintendedthateithershouldbesoldasasinglemaltbutthegrowingdemandforsinglemaltsandthedistillery’shistoricreputationpersuadedtheowners(bythenDiageo)toreleasesomelimitedexpressions,whichhavebeenenthusiasticallyreceived.
Confused?Ifindoubt,checkthepricetag–you’relookingforthemorereadilyavailableandaffordableClynelishat14yearsold,whichshouldcostlessthan£35abottle.Ifit’sgotathree-figurepricetag,putitback–carefully.
ThisiswhatDiageorefertoasa‘HiddenMalt’.Notthattheydon’twantyoutofinditatall,itjustfeelssometimesasifthey’redeterminedtomakeitdifficultforyou.Actually,theyprobablycan’tsparethatmuchbecauseit’sakeycomponentintheJohnnieWalkerblends.It’sbetter,though,totrytherealthing:charmingHighlandmaltwithamaritimenotefromitsseasidelocation.ColourAbrightmid-gold.Nose Spicyandperfumed,withthesignature‘candlewax’notelovedbyfans.Taste At most medium bodied, but with a creamy/waxy mouth-coating
impact.Floral,exoticfruitandspices,hintsofsmokeandhoney.Finish Asalty,drying,slightlybitterfinish.
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29 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
DiageoGimli,Manitoba,CanadaYesSpecialistsanddutyfree
www.crownroyal.com
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CrownRoyal
ThereareonlytwoCanadianwhiskiesinthisbook;notbecausetheyaren’tinterestingbutbecause,ingeneral,theyarehardtofindintheUKand–let’sbehonest–werathertendtolookdownonthem.This,asweshallsee,isourmistake.
CrownRoyalisthenumberoneCanadianwhiskyintheworld,andtheeighthlargestspiritsbrandintheUS–apositionithasn’treachedentirelyaccidentally.ItisalsofoundinFrance,JapanandKoreawherethesomewhatluridpurplepackagingofthevelvetbagthatitcomesinandtheregalassociationsarestronglyassociatedwithquality.
Notthattheroyallinkisentirelyamarketingcreation.Thisdatesto1939whentheoriginalblendwascreatedtomarkavisittoCanadabyKingGeorgeVIandQueenElizabeth(laterknowntobookmakersthelengthandbreadthofthelandastheQueenMother).ThiswasinthedayswhenSeagramownedthebrand.TodayitisinthehandsofDiageoandhasbeenproducedsince1968atthegiantGimlidistillery,ontheedgeofLakeWinnipeg,builtassomethingofahighwatermarkfortheultimatelydoomedSeagramCompany.It’sactuallyworthreadingtheirhistoryasagreatexampleofmistimeddecisionsandcorporateover-enthusiasm.
ThereareseveralexpressionsintheCrownRoyalrangeincludingaReserve,CaskNo.16andtheultra-premiumXR(youmightjustfindtheseindutyfreeshopsinNorthAmerica).Thestandardexpressionhasanenthusiasticfollowingandit’sagreatambassadorforCanada.What’smore,it’softenfoundintheUKin1litrebottles,whichoffergreatvalue.
Itmustbeadmittedthatthebagisabitofaproblem,especiallyifyouliketodisplayyourbottles.Don’tletitputyouoff.SomeoneoneBaymightwantit.Somewhereadoll’shouseneedsnewcurtains.ColourMidgold.Nose Sweetinitialimpact;honey,spicesandredberries.Oakandvanilla.Taste Mediumtofullbodied,fruitywithspicehints.Sweetandcreamy.
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Finish Vaguelypleasantandsweet,driftsslowlytoaconclusion.
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30 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
TheEdringtonGroupn/a–thisisablendn/aMainlyUSA,SpainandGreece–butfightingbackintheUK
www.cuty-sark.com
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CuttySark
Original
Forawhilethiswasthebest-sellingblendedwhiskyintheUSA,perhapsonthebackofitsavailabilityduringProhibition.ThiswaslargelyduetotheeffortsofnotedbootleggerCaptainWilliamMcCoywhosestrenuouseffortstorunonlythebestqualitysuppliesashoretohisthirstycustomersgaverisetothephrase‘therealMcCoy’.Curiously,itwasknownoriginallyas‘Scots’whisky.
But,unlikeitsrathervibrantyellowlabel,ithasfadedsomewhatinrecentyears,whichisashame.Itsextremelypalecolourisoutoffashionbutthereisstillplentytoenjoyaboutthispleasant,light-bodiedblend.Foronething,thoughforyearsit’sbeenmarketedbysmartLondonwinemerchantsBerryBros&Rudd,thewhiskyisactuallyblendedbyHighlandDistillersandcontainsahealthymeasureofgreatmaltssuchasGlenrothes,TheMacallanandHighlandPark.Infact,HighlandParkwasactuallyboughtbytheblendersbackin1937toensuresuppliesforCuttySark,thoughithasgoneontogreatsuccessinitsownright(seeseparateentries).Earlierin2010,Highland’sparent,TheEdringtonGroup,boughtthebrandfromBerryBroswhohadjustrelauncheditintheUK,sofansofthislightandrefreshingwhiskycanhavehighhopesforitsfuture.
Untilnow,themainefforthasbeenonthestandardproduct,recommendedhere,butthereisalsoarangeofolderstylesavailable.You’llfindCuttymainlyinLondon’ssmarterstylebarsandcocktailestablishmentsandthisisahintabouthowtoenjoythiswhisky.Undemandingyetofexcellentquality,CuttySarkistheperfectpre-dinnerdramanditalsomixeswell.Don’tbefooledbythepalecolour–there’smoreherethanmeetstheeye.ColourAverypalegoldenwhisky,setoffbytheelegant,tall,clearglassbottle
andstrikingyellowlabel.Nose Vanillaandsomecerealnotes.Taste Delicateandverysubtle–agreataperitifwhisky.Finish Crispandclean.
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31 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
TheEdringtonGroupn/a–thisisablendn/aMainlyUSA,SpainandGreece–butfightingbackintheUK
www.cutty-sark.com
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CuttySark
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25YearsOld
BlendingwasoncedefinedbyDavidMacDonaldas‘Theartofcombiningmeticulouslyselected,mature,highqualitywhiskies,eachwithitsownflavourandothercharacteristics,withsuchskillthatthewholeisbetterthanthesumofitsparts,sothateachmakesitscontributiontothefinishedblendwithoutanyonepredominating.’
Itisanidealisticview,ignoringasitdoestheeconomicpressuresbehindmanyofthecheaperblendsthatweseeonourshelves.Yet,atitsbest,thisiswhatgreatblendingisaboutandisastandardtowhichalldistillersaspire,atleastintheirpremiumexpressions.Onceinawhile,onecomesacrossawhiskythatbringsthatdefinitionalive:thisissuchawhisky.
Savouritcarefully:CuttySark25YearsOldisavirtuosodisplayofblendingexcellence;exactlywhatblendingisallabout.Idoubtyouwouldevertireofdrinkingthiswhisky.Itissosmooth,sobalanced,sorefined,soperfectlytunedthateventhemostdemandingcriticwouldsurelybesatisfiedandcryformore.
ItcomesasasurprisethatitcarriestheCuttySarklabel,beingasfarremovedfromthestandardblendasonemightimagine.Wherethatisdeliberatelypale,thisisdark;wherethatiscleanandcrisp,thisisdeepandrich.Itcarriesitsageverywell,yetlikegreatStiltonisclearlymature.Drinkingit,IkeptthinkingofavintageBentley–progressingswiftly,purposefullyandquietly,yetwithastatelydignityandgracethatonlythisrarecombinationoffinesseandpowercanconvey.
Letusnameandhonourthemanbehindthisexceptionalcreation:JohnRamsay,MasterBlenderatEdrington.Sir,wesaluteyou!Ashehasrecentlyretired,blendingwillfalltohissuccessor,GordonMotion.Ihopehe’skeptsomenotes.ColourDeep,darkanddignified.Nose Marmalade,oldoakanddarkhoney.Taste Outstanding balance of power and subtlety. Rich fruit cake, Seville
orangesandtoffee.
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Finish Along,richandwarmfinishwithsomespiceandfaintsmoketraces.
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32 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailability
Price
DiageoDalwhinnie,Dalwhinnie,Inverness-shireYesWidespreadinternationalavailability
www.malts.com
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Dalwhinnie
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15YearsOld
DalwhinniedistilleryliesjustoffthemainA9,thearterialroutefromEdinburghtoInvernessanditsshinypagodasareclearlyvisiblefromtheroad.Buttrynottolook,becausethisisoneofthemoredangeroussectionsofadangerousroad.Instead,turnoffamileorsotothesouthandspendanhourtouringthedistilleryandlookingatthesmalldisplays.
Theowners,Diageo,laymuchstressonthefactthatthedistilleryisoneofthehighestinScotland,thoughtheprecisesignificanceofthisescapesme.Itisnotasifloweratmosphericpressurewillinfluencethewhiskybutitseemstohavesomeromanticvalueinmarketing.Infact,thereasonfortheremotelocationisrathermoreprosaic:theoriginaldistillery,thenknownasStrathspey,wasputheretotakeadvantageoftherailway,ahugelysignificantinfluenceonVictoriandistilleryconstruction,evenifthespinmeisterswouldrathertalkaboutwater!
Thedistillersthemselvesclaimthat,‘Dalwhinnieissituatedbetweenthegentle,grassystyleoftheLowlandsandtheaustere,firmbodyofSpeyside,whichbeginssome25milestothenorth.ThestyleisthatoftheHighlands;aresilientmarriageofgentlenessandspirit.’Thatperhapsundersellsthemeritsofthissilky,mouth-coatingspirit.
Interestingly,thedistilleryusedtoemploycopperwormtubstocondensethenewmake.Theywerereplacedin1986buttheimpactonspiritcharacterwassuchthatthechangewasreversedin1995.So,fifteenyearson,it’samootpointastotheeffectonthecurrentbottlingbut,suchisthedemandforthesinglemaltexpressioninDiageo’sClassicMaltCollection,supplieswillprobablyhaverevertedtowormtubcondensedspiritbythetimeyoureadthis.ColourYellowgold.Nose Immediatelyappealing;gentlesmokewithhoney,ripefruitsandgrassy
heather.Taste Often said to appeal to thosewho ‘don’t likewhisky’, this is actually
morecomplex than it firstappearsandoffershiddendepthsofvanillawithsubtleorangesuggestions.
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Finish Somesmokesurprises,thengiveswaytoasweeterfinish.Perhapsdarkchocolatealso.
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33 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
BurnStewartDistillersLtdDeanston,Doune,PerthshireNo–toursbyappointmentSpecialists
www.burnstewartdistillers.com
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Deanston
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12YearsOld
It’snotoftenrecalledthatPerthshirewasonceamajordistillingcentre,withover100distilleriesrecorded.Todaytherearestillsixinoperation–Deanstonistheoneeveryonebutthemosthard-coreenthusiastwillforget.
ItmakesitintothislistasoneofthemostimprovedwhiskiesIcancalltomind,comingfromadistilleryasinterestingasitisobscure.Butignoreanyreferencesto1785.Thisiswhentheoriginalbuildingwaserectedbutitwasacottonmill,designedbyRichardArkwrightandpoweredbythefast-flowingRiverNeith.TodayArkwright’scellars,whicharelisted,provideidealconditionsforthematurationofwhiskyandthedistilleryisstillpoweredbyturbinesdrivenbytheNeith.Infact,thedistillerygeneratesmorepowerthanitneeds–enoughelectricitytorun400housesissoldtotheNationalGrid.
Themillwasconvertedtoafullworkingdistilleryin1966andthefirstspiritranin1969fromtwopairsoflargebulbouspotstills,capableofdistillingthreemillionlitresofalcoholayear.Thelargeboilingballsonthestillsencourageahighdegreeofreflux,leadingtoalightandfruityspiritcharacter.Theoriginalintentionwastousethisinlaunchingamajornewblend,butthisneverhappened.
Deanstonwasfirstreleasedassinglemaltin1974and,bystages,wasdevelopedtoa12YearsOldproduct.But,tobeblunt,itwasn’tterriblygood.Notbad;neitherinterestingnormemorable.
Withthenewlyreleasedversion,however,thingsarelookingup.Thestrengthhasbeenincreasedto46.3%abv,it’snotchillfilteredanylonger,it’smarriedinnewoakforsomeweekspriortobottlingandthere’snoaddedcolour.It’salotbetterandworthatry.Stillquitelightanddelicate,butthenyoudon’twantsomeroaringpeat-soakedmonsterorhugesherrycharactereveryday.ColourYellowgold.Nose Freshandfruity,withmalt,hintsofhoneyandnuts.Fragrantandquite
floral.
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Taste Anidealaperitif.Gingerbread,spicesandliquorice.Finish Long,quitedryandpleasantlyherbal,withnewwoodnotesattheback.
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34 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
Availability
Price
JohnDewar&SonsLtdn/a–thisisablendDewar’sWorldofWhisky,Aberfeldy,PerthshireStrongintheUSA,dutyfreeandGreece.IncreasinglyavailableintheUK
www.dewars.com
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Dewar’s
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12YearsOld
TheDewar’scompanywasboughtbyBacardiin1988andtherangeofproductsgreatlyincreased.NotthattherewasanythingseriouslywrongwiththeoldWhiteLabelbutthenewblendshavereachedhigherstandards.Onefeltthecompanyneededsometenderlovingcareandthathasbeengiveninrecentyears.
ComparedtoJohnnieWalker,theDewarhousestyletendstobeasofterblendwiththesweeterheatherhoneynotesofAberfeldysinglemaltatitsheart.Thisisveryapproachable,easytodrinkwhiskythatcantakeiceandamixer,whilealsobeingenjoyableonitsownorwithalittlewater.
Dewar’smakegreatplayof‘marrying’theirwhiskiespriortofinalbottling–aprocessdevelopedbytheirfirstMasterBlenderA.J.Cameronbackintheearlytwentiethcentury.Todayitinvolvesmakinguptheblendandplacingitforuptosixmonthsinspecialmarryingcaskssothattheflavoursarefullyandharmoniouslyintegrated.Thecompanyinsistthatwhiletheirinstrumentscan’tdetectanydifferenceinflavourtheirhumantastingpanelcanandsotheystickwiththistime-consumingandexpensiveextrastage.They’renottheonlypeopledoingthis,butitisunusualandappearstomakearealdifference.
YoucanlearnmoreaboutallofthisontheirwebsiteorbyvisitingtheirverysmartvisitorcentreattheAberfeldydistillery.IcanadmitherethatIwasinvolvedinitscreation(andveryproudofitIam,too)butthatwasquitesomewhileago,soIfeelcompletelyfreetopraisethiswhiskywholeheartedlyandwithoutanyembarrassment.ColourArichgoldenwhisky,andstylishpackaging.Nose Full and fruity; raisins, orange peel, toffee/butter fudge and heathery
hints.Taste A rich, fruity sweetness; good length andweight; hints of oak, citrus
notes,honeyandcaramel.Finish Fullflavoured,longandlingering,withliquoricenotes.
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35 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
Availability
Price
JohnDewar&SonsLtdn/a–thisisablendDewar’sWorldofWhisky,Aberfeldy,PerthshireGoodintheUSA,dutyfreeandspecialistsintheUK
www.dewars.com
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Dewar’s
Signature
Ihavedeliberatelynotrecommendedmanyexpensivewhiskieshere,believingthatthereisplentytoexplorebelow£100abottleandthat,onceyougetwellintothreefigures,adisproportionateamountofthecostgoesintolavishpackaging(onwhicheveryoneinthedistributionchaintakesamargin).Moreover,thereisadangerthatyoucanpayasignificantpremiumsimplyforrarityorage,withoutnecessarilyseeingacommensurateimprovementinthewhisky.
Signature(it’stheoriginalJohnDewar’s,bytheway,thoughIfancyhisflamboyantsonTommywouldhavelikedthestyleofthis)doeshaveratheralavishwoodenboxandfancystopper,anditwilltypicallycostyouaround£200intheUK(tryandfinditattheairportinstead).But,forthosespecialoccasionsandifyoulikethisstyleofwhisky,it’sworthit.
LikeJohnnieWalkerBlueLabel(itsclosestcompetitor)thisisnon-aged:thatistosaythatwhiletheblendhassomeveryoldwhiskies,mainlyAberfeldy,italsohassomeyoungeronesandtheblendersthinkyouprobablywouldn’tpaythepriceiftheyputtheageonthebottle.Andeveniftheydon’tthinkthat,themarketingpeoplecertainlydo.
Onceagain,thewhiskiesinSignaturearemarried(seeDewar’s12YearsOldforanexplanation)andthis,togetherwiththehighpercentageofsinglemalt,accountsforthesmooth,richtaste.It’sonetosipandsavourafteracelebrationdinner.
Keeptheposhwoodenbox,bytheway;itmakesahandycoffinforapethamsterorgerbil.ColourDeepgoldenamber.Nose Sweet,balanced,richandfruity,fudge,coffeecrèmebrûléeandvanilla
ice cream drizzledwithwarm toffee sauce. The aromas developwithnougat,toastedmacadamianut,marzipanandlashingsofhoney.
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Taste Rich, sweetand longwithavelvety,creamymouth feel.Butter toffeeand honey with warm winter fruits and mellow tones of sultanas,raisins,applesandcoconut.Fullbodiedandvelvety.
Finish Alongandcomplexfinish.Smoothandwarming.
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36 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
TheSazeracCompanyBuffaloTrace,FranklinCounty,KentuckyYesSpecialists
www.buffalotrace.comseealsowww.bourbonwhiskey.com
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EagleRare
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17YearsOld
Americanwhiskeybrandscanbeconfusingtotheoutsider:firstseenin1975,EagleRarewasoriginallya101-proof10-year-oldKentuckystraightbourbonwhiskey(notsingle-barrel)fromSeagramandthusamongthelastnewbourbonbrandsintroducedpriortothecurrenteraofso-called‘smallbatch’releases.Subsequently,EagleRarehasbeendistilled,bottledand/ormarketedbyanumberofcompanies,includingtheOldPrenticeDistilleryofFrankfort,Kentucky.
TheSazeracCompany,aNewOrleans-basedproducerandimporterandtheparentcompanyoffivedistilleries,acquiredEagleRarefromSeagraminMarch1989.Atthattime,Sazerac’sKentuckydistillerywasknownastheGeorgeT.StaggDistillerybuttodaycarriesthenameBuffaloTrace(seeseparateentry).
Therearetwoversions:a10YearsOldandthisolder,moreexpensivebigbrother,partofBuffaloTrace’sAntiqueCollection.ItwillcomeasnosurprisetowhiskyenthusiaststhatthisbookkeepsreferringbacktoBuffaloTraceasthesourceforsomeoutstandingwhiskiesbutitisperhapsnotaswellknown(yet)tothegeneralconsumerasitshouldbe,andtheplethoraofbrandnamesandidentitiesdon’thelp.
Bethatasitmay,17-year-oldbourbonisarareandpreciousthing.Mostbourbonmaturesmuchfasterthanthis,duetotheKentuckyclimate,soagealoneattractsafairlystiffpremium,though,infairnesstothedistiller,itmustberememberedthatevaporationlossesarehigherherethaninScotland.At17yearsthisisprobablyreachingitspeakand,forsheersmoothness,hasfewequals.
Inevitablythereisvariationfrombatchtobatch,asthisisproducedinsmallquantities,buttheoverallstandardisexceptionallyhighandloversofgreat,full-flavouredbourbonlookingforwell-balancedmaturityareunlikelytofeeldisappointed.ColourDeep,rich,coppergold.Nose Honey,caramelandmarzipan.
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Taste Lotsofweightandbody;sweetnessthenorangeandvanillafudge.Finish Extendedfinish,surprisinglydryingtotheend.
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37 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
HeavenHillBernheim,Louisville,KentuckyYesSpecialists
www.heaven-hill.comseealsowww.bardstownwhiskeysociety.com
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ElijahCraig
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12YearsOld
At12yearsoldand94proof,ElijahCraigisbottledexclusivelyfromadumpingof70barrelsorless,alldrawnfromthemiddletoupperfloorsofHeavenHill’straditionalmetal-cladrickhouses.Thedistilleryproudlyclaimsthatthisistheoriginalsmallbatchbourbon,havingbeencreatedbeforethetermwasinvented.ElijahCraigwasrecentlyawardedDoubleGoldattheSanFranciscoWorldSpiritsCompetitionandhasbeenawinnerinWhiskyMagazine’sBestoftheBesttastingcompetition.
There’saninterestingstorybehindthename.TheReverendElijahCraigwasborninOrangeCounty,Virginia,sometimearound1740(accountsvary,asifyoucared).HewasordainedaBaptistpreacherin1771andmusthavebeenalivelycharacterbecausehewasapparentlyimprisonedbrieflyinSouthCarolinaafterbeingchargedwithdisturbingthepeaceduringhissermons!
LaterheledacongregationtoScottCounty,Kentucky,andplannedthesettlementthatwouldeventuallybeknownasGeorgetown.Quitetheproto-typicalsocialentrepreneur,oldElijahfoundedanumberofbusinessesincludingasmalldistillerythatconvertedbulkygrainintowhiskey–highervalueandeasiertotransportandtrade.AmonghisventureswastheRoyalSpringMilland,sothestorygoes,afirethereledtobarrelsbeingcharred.Ratherthandiscardthem,theparsimoniousclericemployedthemtoagehiswhiskey.(Quitewhythebarrelsburntfromtheinsideisamystery:we’llattributeittodivineintervention.)Anyway,inhonourofhiscontributiontowhiskey,Craigisconsidereda‘FatherofBourbon’andHeavenHillnamedthispremiumexpressionafterhim.That’sall.It’saprettyfairmemorial,however,sinceit’srightlyveryhighlyratedandagreat-valuebottle.ColourArich,warminggoldenbrown.Nose Lotsgoingonhere,withcaramelandhoneytothefore.Sweetbutnot
cloyinglyso.Taste Agreeably complex, lots of oak notes, spiced fruits and jam. Very
smoothandmouthcoating.Finish Vanilla sweetness; lingering pleasantly and holding together well.
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Yummy!
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38 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
GlenoraDistilleryGlenoraInn&Distillery,Glenville,CapeBreton,NovaScotia,CanadaYesSpecialists
www.glenoradistillery.com
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GlenBreton
Rare
Oops!Ourveryfirst‘glen’andit’snotfromScotland.
But,behonest,doyouthinkabottlereading‘Canada’sOnlySingleMaltWhisky’andbearingalargeredmapleleafonthefront,togetherwiththewords‘Canadian/Canadien’couldbemistakenforScotch?Wouldyoupickupabottle,getithomeandthenthink‘D’oh’?TheScotchWhiskyAssociation(SWA)certainlythoughtsoandfoughtalongandexpensivecourtbattletohavetheword‘glen’removedfromthisproduct,thusprotectingyoufromtheconsequencesofyourownfoolishness.
Alittleharsh,youmayfeel,sincethiscomesfromGlenvilleinNovaScotiaandthedistillery’spresidentisoneLauchieMacLean–there’slittledoubtwhosettledthispartofCanada,anditwasn’ttheFrench.AndGlenOracanonlymake250,000litresofspiritannuallyand,fortheirGlenBreton,theyusecopperpotstillsandbarley,yeastandwatertomaketheirsinglemaltwhiskywhichisnotablydifferentfrommostCanadianwhisky.
Eventuallythecasewaslost,thoughitdidgoallthewaytotheCanadianSupremeCourtandtheSWAseemedtomelessthanmagnanimousindefeat.Anyway,nowyoucanbuyCanadianSingleMaltWhiskyinScotland.Fewoff-licencesreportedqueuesofexcitedwould-beMountiesandlumberjacks,however,andtheScotchwhiskyindustryseemstohavesurvivedthislessthanconvulsiveshock.
AccordingtoGlenOraspokesmanBobScott,thecompanywillnow‘demonstratethespecialabilityoftheGaelicScotsofCapeBretontocraftanexceptionalsinglemaltwhisky,whichisuniquelyCanadian’.
WeawaitthisDavid-and-Goliath-typestrugglewithinterest.ColourGoldenAmber.Nose Butterscotch,heather,honeyandgroundginger.Taste Creamywithagoodflowoftoastywood,almondandcaramel.
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Finish Rounded,lingering,faintlysweet,themerestwhisperofpeat.
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39 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
G&JGrantGlenfarclas,Ballindalloch,BanffshireYesSpecialists
www.glenfarclas.co.uk
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Glenfarclas
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21YearsOld
Scottishreadersmaynowrelax–this‘glen’isfraeBonnieScotland,asintheglensofhome.NorelationtotheGrantsofGlenfiddichfamebut,liketheirnamesakes,theGrantsofGlenfarclasareanexampleofadyingbreed:theindependent,family-owneddistiller.
Notthatthereseemsanydangerofthatchanginginthenearfuture,asthenextgenerationofthefamilyisalreadyinthebusinessandwillpresumablyinheritthereinsinduecourse.CurrentChairmanJohnL.S.Grantisthefifthmemberofthefamilytoownandmanagethedistillery,andhissonGeorgeS.Grantisworkingasthecompany’sBrandAmbassador(greatjob,bytheway–youtravelroundtheworlddrinkingwhiskywithpeople,thoughpresumablythere’smoretoitthanthat).
Thekeypointaboutthisfamilyownershipiscontinuity,bothindistillingstyleandinmanagement.Withfreedomfromshort-termshareholderpressure,companieslikethis(andtheGlenfiddichGrants)canbuildstocksandtakealong-termviewoftheirbusiness.
WithGlenfarclasthishaspaidoffwiththereleaseoftheirFamilyCasksseries–individualcaskbottlingsrepresentingeveryyearcontinuouslyfrom1952tothepresentday.Someoftheolderwhiskiesareexcellentandexcellentvalue,eveniftheybreachmyself-imposed£1,000perbottlemark.ButI’mnotgoingtorecommendoneofthose,temptedthoughIamtodoso.AsanintroductiontotheGlenfarclasstyleofsherry-agedSpeysidewhisky,trythesublime21YearsOld.Atlessthan£60it’sasteal,thoughI’dpersonallyliketoseeitofferedatahigherstrengththan43%abv.That’snit-picking,though:ifyoulikefull-flavoured,richbutnotaggressivewhiskiesthatjustoozeclass(andwhywouldn’tyou?)thisoneisdefinitelyforyou.ColourNoticeablydark;thesherrycaskshavebeenatworkhere.Nose Sherrynose,fruitcake,orangesandsweetness.Notahintofoverageor
rubber.Taste Very full and rounded; old leather, dried fruits and dark marmalade.
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Layered.Finish Arich,rollingfinish.
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40 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
G&JGrantGlenfarclas,Ballindalloch,BanffshireYesSpecialists
www.glenfarclas.co.uk
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Glenfarclas
105
Ihaven’tlistedtoomanycaskstrengthwhiskies,becausethey’reoftenquitehardtofind,butthisisclearlyonetotryandrepresentsgreatvalueformoney,too.Theappealofthe‘caskstrength’bottleisthatyouareabletotrywhiskyjustasyouwouldifyousneakedintothewarehouseandgotadramstraightfromthebarrel.Ithasn’tbeenfiltered,whichinevitablyremovessomeofthenaturalbodyfromthewhisky,andself-evidentlyithasn’tbeendiluted.
Strictlyspeaking,Glenfarclas105isn’tcaskstrengthbecauseitisbottledat60%abv,butthatisnearenoughand,asthisisn’tasingle-caskbottling,theystandardisethestrengthforconsistency.It’sprobablyoneoftheeasiestoftheveryhigh-strengthwhiskiestofindandwasoneoftheveryfirsttoofferthisstyle,soitgetsmarksjustforthat.
Sothisisstrongstuff.Butthepointisnottoindulgeinmachoposturinganddrinkitatthisstrength(thoughyou’vegottotryaweesip).Ratheryoushoulddiluteittoyourtasteandstillpickupalltheoilyrichnessthatiswhisky’snaturalcondition.And,whileyou’redoingit,helpsupportthatrarestofbeasts:anindependent,family-owned,ScottishScotchwhiskycompany.Hurrah!
Glenfarclasaregreatadvocatesofsherrycasksandthisisaminorclassicfromafamilycompanyjustifiablyproudoftheirindependence.Theyjealously,andrightly,guardtheirreputationforqualityandyouwon’teverseeanythingsecond-ratewiththeirlabel.
Thedistilleryiswellworthamorningofyourtimeifyou’reeverinthearea.ColourDeepgoldrevealingmaturationintopqualityex-sherrycasks.Nose Clearlyabigwhisky,fruitywithwinenotes,caramelandchocolate.Taste Sherrywoodclearlybuthoneyinthebackground;sweetchocolateand
driedfruits.Finish Somesmokyhints,lingeringwinenotesandhoneyshowsthrough.
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41 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
WilliamGrant&SonsDistillersLtdGlenfiddich,Dufftown,BanffshireYesWorldwide
www.glenfiddich.com
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Glenfiddich
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18YearsOld
Glenfiddichisthebest-sellingsinglemaltwhiskyintheworld,thankstoafar-sighteddecisionbythisstaunchlyindependent,family-ownedcompanytostartpromotingsinglemaltwhiskywellbeforetheindustrygiants.It’sgenerallysaidthatseriouseffortstosellGlenfiddichstartedinthe1960sbutIhaveseenapromotionalbottlepourerfrombeforeWorldWar2,suggestingthatatleastsomeluckydrinkerswereconvertedtotheappealofthissplendiddraminanageofubiquitousblends.
Bethatasitmay,Glenfiddich’sall-pervadingpresenceactuallyservestoputoffsomemaltfans,whoarguethatsomethingsopopularcan’treallybethatgood.BecauseGlenfiddichisseeneverywhere(anditreallyis)itlosesitssnobappeal.
Butanywhiskyanoraktakingthisapproachismissingsomeraretreats.Asafamily-ownedcompany,WilliamGrant&Sonshavebeenabletotakealong-termapproachtothestewardshipoftheirwhisky,withoutthepressureofhalf-yearearningsreportstoagreedyandoftenshort-sightedCity.TheresultisthatthecompanyhaveextensivestocksofolderGlenfiddichs,whicharearguablyunder-appreciatedbysomedrinkersandthusrepresentsomethingofabargain.
Ifyourwalletwillstretch,the30YearsOldvariantissimplyoutstanding(infact,readon).But,foraffordableeverydaydrinkingthatgivesrealpleasure,looknofurtherthanthis18YearsOld.It’sSpeysideatitsbest;agreatexampleofaclassicwhiskyfromadistillertowhomallwhiskyfanstheworldoveroweasincereandextendedvoteofthanks.Colour Rich,warmgold.Nose AclassicSpeyside–fruity,fragrantandwithaverycleannose.Taste Lots to find here: apples, sharp citrus notes but plenty of depth also,
withdarkfruitandoak.Finish Elegantandwelldefined.
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42 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
WilliamGrant&SonsDistillersLtdGlenfiddich,Dufftown,BanffshireYesWorldwide
www.glenfiddich.com
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Glenfiddich
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30YearsOld
Iknow,anotherGlenfiddich.Howboring.
Wrong!Wrong!Wrong!
Forgetyourprejudices.Ataround£200inmostUKoutlets(lessindutyfree)thisisgoodvalue,ifnotquitetheseriousbargainitwasjustafewyearsago.Itdoesn’tcomeinafancyboxwithanumberedbottlebutthiswasaworthyanddecisiveoverallwinnerofthe2007ScottishFieldMerchant’sChallenge.
Aswe’velearned,Glenfiddichisstillafamily-ownedcompanyandisstaunchlyindependent.Theyhaveextensivestocksandasingle-mindedwayofdoingthings.Manyoftheirpeoplehavebeenwiththemfordecades(somehaveevenhadseveralgenerationsofthesamefamilyworkingforthecompany)andthismeansthereisararecontinuityinthinking,customandpractice.
Idon’twanttosuggestthey’re‘stickinthemud’orresistanttoprogress,butthereisasenseinwhichtheirveryimmunitytofadsandfashionmakesthemfashionable.Mindyou,thedistilleryhostsanannualcontemporaryartsprogramme,whichcanleadtosomeunusualsights,suchasfirebucketshanginghalfwayupthestillhousewallandastackofcarsheldtogetherbybindingtape,sothey’requitepreparedtotakesomeriskswiththeirimage.Anyway,backtothewhisky.
Thisstuffoozesflavour.ThelateMichaelJackson,reveredinwhiskycircles,describeditas‘luxurious,butinarestrained,understatedway’,whichsortofdescribesthecompanyaswell.Glenfiddichdo40and50YearsOldversionsaswell:theyareagreatdealmoreexpensiveand,forbangforyourbuck,you’ddowelltostoprighthere.ColourDarkandenticing.Nose Beguilinglyfreshandfruity;spicywithsherrynotes.Taste Mediumbodybutmouthcoating; tropicalfruit,honey,spiceandfresh
fruits,followedbysomedarkernotes
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Finish Allof theabove;hintsofoakanda touchofsmoke in there forgoodmeasure.
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43 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
GlenglassaughDistilleryCo.LtdGlenglassaugh,Portsoy,AberdeenshireNoneattimeofwriting,butplansareinhand.ToursavailableSpecialists
www.glenglassaugh.com
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Glenglassaugh
TheSpiritDrinkThatDareNotSpeakItsName
Glenglassaughwasmothballedin1986but,togeneralsurprise,reopenedattheendof2008undernewownershipandafterahealthyinvestmenttogettheoldplacegoing.
Andnow,here’saconfession.Well,twoactually.
Iworkedontheplanninganddevelopmentofthisproductsoifyoufeelthatdisbarsmefromcommentstopreadingnow.Andit’snotactuallywhisky,soagainyoumightwanttolookaway.
Thisiswhatusedtobeknownindistilleriesas‘clearic’–newmakespiritstraightoffthestill.Itwillbecomewhiskybutitcan’tbecalledwhiskyuntilithasspentaminimumofthreeyears(andnotadayless)inoakbarrelsinawarehouseinScotland.Upuntil1915,whentheageingregulationsbecamelaw,alotof‘whisky’wouldhavebeendrunklikethisand,untiltheadventofmoreresponsiblehealthandsafetyatworkpracticesinthe1970s,alotwasdrunkindistilleriesintheinfamouspracticeof‘dramming’.Quitealotprobablystillis,ifyouknowwheretolook,whotoaskandcankeepyourmouthshut.(Notwhileyou’redrinking,obviously.)So,ifyouwanttoknowhowwhiskystartslife,youhavetotrythis.Oneortwodistilleriesselltheirnewmakebut,inmyopinion(andnotjustbecauseIwasinvolved),thisisthebest.It’sfruity,verycleanandaromatic,andsurprisinglycomplex,soshouldagewell.Bottledat50%abvit’snotatallharshorspirityanddilutesnicely.Thereisalsoaversionbottledafter6monthsageinginredwinecasksthathasapleasantroséblushcolour.
Asyoutryityoucanponderthethoughtthatthisiswhatgreat-grandadprobablydrank.Colour Colourless,slightcloudingonadditionofwater.Lookforwell-defined
viscimetricwhorls.Nose Creamybutterscotchandcustardcreamsgiveway todelicatenotesof
sweet hay and freshly cut grass.Withwater, this spirit becomes veryfloralandfruity.
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Taste Powerfulatfirstwithawaveofchilliandblackpepper,thentoffeeandliquorice.
Finish Freshandfruityonthenose;spicyyetsweetonthepalate.
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44 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
GlenglassaughDistilleryCo.LtdGlenglassaugh,Portsoy,AberdeenshireNoneattimeofwriting,butplansareinhand.ToursavailableSpecialists
www.glenglassaugh.com
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Glenglassaugh
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26YearsOld
Yes,IknowI’vementionedthistinydistilleryalreadyandIknowthiswhiskyisbothexpensiveandhardtofind–butit’sworthit.Thisisoneofmypersonalall-timefavouritesand,whileIwouldprobablyneverhavediscovereditifIhadn’tdonesomeworkforthedistillery(thisisthedisclaimerclause)thisdoesn’tdisqualifyme.
Whatyouwillexperiencehereisthesubtleandcharmingeffectoflongageingingoodwoodonafragrantanddelicatenewspirit.Backwhenthiswasdistilled,sometimepriorto1986,virtuallyallofGlenglassaugh’soutputwasgoingforblending,mainlyinCuttySark.Thisisn’tastronglyflavouredorparticularlyhighlycolouredwhisky,sotheblendersweren’tlookingforpronouncedflavourfromtheblendcomponents,morenuancesandsomecomplexity.
Sotheytendedtouse‘refill’casks;thatistosay,barrelsthatmightoncehaveheldeithersherryorbourbonbuthadbeenusedatleastonce(andpossiblymoreoften)forScotchwhisky.Then,ashappensfromtimetotime,notalltheGlenglassaughwasusedandaquantitywasleftquietlyageing.
Inthisparticularcase,andthisdoesn’talwayshappen,itjustgotbetterandbetterwithage.So,whenthenewownerstookover,theybottledtheremainingcasksandreleased,firsta21YearsOldandthenthis26YearsOldversion.Whenit’sgoneitwillbegoneandtheworldwillbeapoorerplace.Eitherisworthtrackingdown.
Infact,grabsomenowwhileyoustillcan.It’sacreamy,complex,slightlysweetwhiskythatIfindquitebewitching,especiallyasalate-nightrewardafteraparticularlytryingday.Thedistillerycharacterisclearlyevident,butsomemoresherrycaskshavegotintothisbatch,addingrichnessanddepth.ColourWarmstraw.Darkerthanthe21YearsOld.Nose Very delicate; dried fruits and noses younger than the age would
suggest.Taste Complex and multi-layered, spice notes dancing with rich fruits and
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caramel;superbbalance.Finish Vanillanotescarrythefreshnessthroughintoalongandslightlyspicy
finishthatisinfluencedbutneverdominatedbythesherrycasks.
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45 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
IanMacleodDistillersLtdGlengoyne,Dumgoyne,nrKilearn,GlasgowYesSpecialists
www.glengoyne.com
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Glengoyne
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21YearsOld
IhaveagreatfondnessforGlengoynefornobetterreasonthanitwasthefirstdistilleryIevervisited.Itwasonmyhoneymoon,asithappened,whichshouldhavealarmedmywife,thoughwhiskydidn’tstarttoplayabigpartinmylifeuntilsomeyearslater.Shedoesmentionitfromtimetotime,however.
Allthiswasrathermorethan21yearsago,sowepresumablygotsomethingright.ThedistilleryitselfhastakenonanewleaseoflifesinceitwassoldbytheEdringtonGrouptothecurrentowners,whohaveinvestedheavilyintheexcellentvisitorfacilities,increasedproductionandnewproducts.
Theymakemuchofthefactthatallthemalttheyuseistotallyunpeated.Untilrecently,theyalsohighlightedtheiruseofGoldenPromisebarley,traditionallyhighlyratedformakingwhisky,butlowyieldingandpronetodisease.Infact,formanyyearsTheMacallanalsoemphasisedacommitmenttoGoldenPromisebut,asproductionexpanded,boththeyandGlengoynehavediscreetlydroppedit.Sothinkofthisasafarewelltothisold-fashionedvariety.
Non-peatedmalt,saysthedistillery,meansyouget‘therealtasteofmalt’.
Whateverthetruthofthat,thisisaveryattractivewhiskythatdeservestobebetterknown.It’savailableatvariousagesbutreallycomesintoitsownwiththis21YearsOldstyle.Ifyoureallywanttosplashoutthereisalsoa40YearsOld,inarathernicedecanter,butthepriceofthatoneisn’tprintablehere.Forthesamemoneyyoucangetnearly50bottlesofthislittlebeautyandIknowwhatIwouldratherhave.ColourGloriousoldgold.Thejudicioususeof100%sherryoakgivesrichness
anddepth.Nose Sweetandhoneyed;sherry,ripeapplesandmaybebakedapplepie.Taste Toffee,vanillaandrichsherrynotesinitially,givingwaytosomespice
and a very pleasant warming glow. ‘Stewed pears and custard’ havebeenreported.
Finish Quiteextended,smoothandwarming,withgentlespicehintsasitfades.
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46 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
LVMHGlenmorangie,Tain,Ross-shireYesDifferentexpressionswidelyavailable
www.glenmorangie.com
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Glenmorangie
QuintaRuban
Glenmorangie’slong-termowners(mainlytheMacDonaldfamily)soldouttotheFrenchluxurymarketinghouseLouisVuittonMoetHennessy(LVMH)inOctober2004for£300m,apricewhichexcitedsomecomment.
Previously,thecompanyhadsomethingofaschizophrenicpersonality:tryingtomaintainGlenmorangieand,toalesserextentArdbeg,aspremiumwhiskiesbutalsoattemptingtocompetewithcheaperblendsandfulfillingsubstantialsupermarketbusiness.However,LVMHaremoresingle-mindedlyaluxurybrandoperation;thedifferencebetween‘premium’and‘luxury’beingawideoneculturallyandintermsofbothpriceandtargetconsumer.
Asaresult,theyhavereducedeffortonblends,soldtheGlenMoraydistilleryandbrand,andreformulated,repackagedandrelaunchedtheGlenmorangierangeinanattempttoseducemoreinternationalbuyerslookingforaluxuryspirit.
AccordingtoresearchanalystsIWSR,Glenmorangiesteadilylostmarketsharefrom2000to2008,underperformingtheglobalgrowthinsinglemaltwhiskyretailsalesvalue,andtheslippageappearstohavecontinuedwhilethebrandwasbeingrepositioned.That’shardlysurprising,giventhetimethesethingstake,butitremainstobeseenifthenewstrategywillwork–certainlymaltfansweredividedonthemeritsofthenewlook.However,therealdecisionwillbetakenbytheelusiveanddangerouslyfickleluxuryconsumersoftheFarEastandthevolatileBRICmarkets.
Ofthewhiskies,theQuintaRubanisperhapsthemostinteresting.GlenmorangiepioneeredthenowwildlyfashionablepracticeoffinishingwhiskiesinalternativecaskswiththeirfirstPortWoodfinishbackin1990.Thatwasgood;thisisanimprovement–ifnolongertheoriginal,it’sstillthebest.ColourArich,warmreddishgold.Nose ArchetypalGlenmorangiedelicacyandcomplexitywithanewdepth.
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Taste Great balance; complexity and richness; fruit notes, chocolate and anunderlying,delicatesweetness.
Finish Alingeringandenigmaticfinishthatintrigues;chocolateorangerushattheend.
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47 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
Gordon&MacPhailn/aRetailShop,SouthStreet,Elgin,MorayshireSpecialists
www.gordonandmacphail.com
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Gordon&MacPhail
GlenGrant25YearsOld
Theobservantreaderwill,bynow,haveobservedthatalltheentriesinthisbookareforofficialproprietarybottlingsandnotthoseofso-called‘thirdparty’merchants.Thereareseveralreasonsforthis,notleastavailabilityandthegreaterdangerofvariabilityinindependentbottlings.ButImustmakeoneexception,fortheworld’sgreatestmerchantbottler:Gordon&MacPhailofElgin.
JamesGordonandJohnAlexanderMacPhailannouncedtheopeningoftheir‘centricalandcommodiouspremises’onSouthStreet,ElgininMay1895,promisingtheircustomers‘theutmostsatisfaction’andguaranteeing‘asuperiorarticleatapopularprice’.Here’sthething:it’sstilltrue.Buyanythingwiththeirlabelonitandyou’llbehappy.Promise.
Today,astheyhavedoneformorethanahundredyears,G&Mbuyfillings–thatistosay,theyprovideorspecifythecasksintowhichisracked‘newmake’boughtdirectfromthedistillers.ItisthenstoredeitherbythedistillerconcernedorinG&M’sownextensivewarehousesandbottledasandwhenG&Mconsiderittobeready.Becausethishasbeentheirpolicysincetheearliestyears,theyhaveextensivestocksofrareandveryoldwhisky.Infacttheyclaimtocarrypossiblythelargestrangeofwhiskiesintheworld,acomprehensiveselectionofwhichmaybeseenattheElginshop.Thisisaveritablecathedralofwhisky:grownmenhavebeenknowntobreakdownintearshereandhavetoberemovedgentlytoaplaceofsafety.
Sadly,Icanonlypickoneoftheirwhiskies,soI’mgoingfortheirbottlingofa25YearsOldGlenGrant.It’scrackingvalueanddemonstrateshowgreatthisdistillerycanbewhenthewhiskyisproperlyaged.Itseemschurlishtopickfaultwiththis,butifthey’donlybottleditat46%,thiswouldbeoutstanding.Don’tletthatstopyou,though.ColourWarmandrich.Nose Darkfruits,cakeandchocolate.
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Taste Full-bodiedbutneveroverwhelming,thisiscomplex,richandslightlysweet.
Finish Veryconsistent; a long, rolling finishwithcitrushintsand jammyredfruit.
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48 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
IrishDistillersGroupforMitchell&SonMidleton,Cork,IrelandRetailshopattheCHQBuilding,DublinRare
www.mitchellson.com
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GreenSpot
ThisisalegendaryIrishwhiskey,spokenofinhushedandreverenttones.Despitethefactthatitishardtofind(only6,000bottlesaremadeeachyear),Ihavetorecommendthis.ThoughI’mbreakingoneofmyownrules,thisissospecialthatanexceptionhastobemade.
Thinkofthecoelacanth.Alivingfossilthatwassupposedtohavediedoutmillionsofyearsagoyetturnedupinafishingnetandastoundedscientists.Well,thisisthecoelacanthofwhisky–adoggedsurvivorofavirtuallyextinctraceofgiants.
ForthisisIrishpotstillwhiskeyand,byrights,itshouldn’texist.A‘potstill’whiskeyisonemadeinIrishcopperstills(generallylargerthanthosefoundinScotland)usingmaltedandunmaltedbarley(unlikeScotch,whichispurelymaltedbarley).ThisgivesIrishpotstillwhiskeysasmoothandoilycharacter,withapuritycausedbytripledistillation.
Traditionally,Irishretailerssoldtheirownlabelofwhiskeyfromalocaldistiller.ButastheIrishdistillingindustrydiedoutandwasrationalisedonebyone,theseidiosyncraticone-offsweresnuffedout.EventuallyonlyMitchell’sofDublinkeptgoing(although,atonetimetheywereabletoofferBlue,YellowandRedSpot,aswell).TodayGreenSpotismadeexclusivelyforMitchell’sandentirelyfromseven-andeight-year-oldMidletonpotstillwhiskey,with25%ofthespirithavingmaturedinsherrycasks.
ForawhileitwasthesolesurvivorofthisstyleofwhiskeybuttodayithasbeenjoinedbyexpressionsfromRedbreastandMidleton.Thebottleisn’tmuchtolookat,butthenacoelacanthisprettyugly.Getinsidethebottle,though,andyou’llquicklychangeyourmind.Colour Palegold.Nose Greengagejam;clean.Taste Quite unique! Waxy, lively and full of honey and minty notes; very
clean.
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Finish Disappears quite quickly, but the sweetness lingers with, curiously,somesmoke.
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49 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
SuntoryHakushu,JapanYesSpecialists
www.suntory.com
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Hakushu
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18YearsOld
Suntory’sseconddistillerywasbuiltin1973inHakushuatthefootofMtKaikomagatakeintheSouthernJapanAlps,surroundedbypineforestsandclosetofast-flowingmountainstreams(hakushumeans‘whitesandbanks’andwhiteisJapan’smostsacredcolour).HakushuHigashi(West)wasaddedin1981andthesinglemaltproducedhereisheldinhighregard,thoughtheoriginalplantwasmothballedin2006.Forabriefperiod,thiswassaidtobethelargestsinglemaltdistilleryintheworld.
TwelvepotstillsoperateatHakushuWestand,intheJapanesemanner,theirvarieddesignallowsthedistillerytoproducespiritwitharemarkablywidevarietyofflavours.MaltispreparedoffsiteatYamazaki,fromgrainbroughtfromScotland,butthereareextensivevisitorfacilitiesatHakushuwithaninterpretationcentre,giftshop,restaurantandamuseum,housedinadramaticformermaltingnotedforitsdistinctiveandunusualdoublepagodaroofwithlinkingbridge.
Weseeboththe12-and18-year-oldexpressionsintheUKwith,veryoccasionally,sightingsofthe25YearsOldandsomelimitedbottlingsinspecialists.AnyofthesewouldbeafineintroductiontoJapanesewhiskybuttrytofindthe18-year-oldversionifpossible,becausetheadditionalmaturationhasreallyaddedsomeextradimensionstothisfinewhisky.
IthaspickedupsignificantawardsfromtheInternationalWine&SpiritsCompetition(IWSC)andInternationalSpiritsChallengeandisveryhighlyratedbymostcommentators.Thestyleisquitedelicate,attributedbysomecommentatorstotheimpactonbothdistillationandmaturationofthedistillery’sheightabovesealevel(700metres).BeingneitheraphysicistnorameteorologistIdon’tfeelcompetenttocommentontheaccuracyofthisintriguingobservation.Colour Palegold.Nose Sharpgreenapples;delicateandrefined.Taste Deceptivelylightbodiedbutwithfruitandcerealingreatbalance.Peat
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mergeswithoak.Finish Spicyandlingering.SometastersremarkonaresemblancetoIrishpot
stillmake.
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50 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
TheSazeracCompanyBuffaloTrace,FranklinCounty,KentuckyYesSpecialists
www.buffalotrace.comseealsowww.kentuckybourbon.com
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ThomasHHandy
SazeracRye
You’regoingtofindthisbothtrickytogetandexpensive,butbearwithme.
IntheUnitedStates,‘ryewhiskey’is,bylaw,madefromamashofatleast51%rye.(Theotheringredientsofthemashareusuallycornandmaltedbarley.)Itisdistilledtonomorethan160(U.S.)proof(i.e.80%abv)andagedincharred,newoakbarrels.Thewhiskeymustbeputintosuchbarrelsatnotmorethan125(U.S.)proofandspiritthathasbeenagedlikethisforatleasttwoyearsmaybefurtherdesignatedas‘straight’,asin‘straightryewhiskey’.Sofar,sogood.
ButinterestinryewhiskeydeclinedafterProhibitionandneverreallyrecovered.Untilveryrecently,thatis,whenitacquiredasortofcultstatus,helpedbypraisefromafewcritics.Asaresult,pricesofoldryewhiskeyarerisingaboutasfastasstocksaregoingdownand,consequently,itishardtofind.ThereisaSazerac18YearsOld,oflegendaryrepute,butitsellsoutassoonasbottlesareputontheshelf.
Foradifferent,butstillremarkable,experience,trytogetholdofthisversion.It’salimitedannualreleaseofsix-year-oldstock,non-chillfilteredandbottledatveryhighstrength.Inevitably,thewhiskeywillvaryslightlyfromyeartoyear.Bythetimeyoureadthisthe2010bottlingshouldbeavailable.
Theseareveryforceful,charismaticandbig,high-impactwhiskiesfromBuffaloTrace,notjustduetothehighstrengthbuttothehugerangeofintenseflavoursthatmaytakesomewhiletoadaptto,especiallyifyouareexpectingbourbon.
It’shardtocommentonthetasteofthisasthe2010releaseisn’tavailablebutitishighlyunlikelytobeadisappointmentandisverydefinitelyawhiskeywithwhichtoamazeyourfriends.Addagoodquantityofwaterandexpectablastofdifferentaromasandflavourswithalong,longfinish.ColourDarkgold.Nose Maplesyrupandmolasses;vanillaanddriedfruit.Taste Oily,mouthcoating,hintsofliquoriceandthenripefruit.
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Finish Peppery;dryingandoakhints.
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51 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
CompassBoxWhiskyCompanyn/a–thisisablendinghousen/aMainlyUK,USAandFrance–butcheckonline
www.compassboxwhisky.com
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Hedonism
ThisismysecondpickfromCompassBox–self-proclaimed‘artisanwhiskymakers’.Well,theyarecertainlygreatatblendingandshrewdurbanmarketers,soisitmean-spiritedtosuggestthattheyarenotquitethehorny-handedsonsoftoilthatthatdescriptionwouldimply?Youdecide.
Hedonismisoneoftheir‘LimitedRelease’range,whichmeansI’msailingclosetooneofmyownrules,butyoushouldn’thavetoomuchtroubletrackingitdowningoodspecialistwhiskyshops,ontheweborfromCompassBox’sownwebsite.What’sunusualaboutitisthatitis100%blendedgrainwhiskyand,morethanthat,it’saround20yearsoldandtakenfromfirst-fillex-bourboncasks.
EachreleaseismadeupasalimitedbatchwithwhiskiesselectedfromCameronBridge(seeseparateentry)andCambusdistilleries,butavailabilityisverymuchdeterminedbyCompassBox’sabilitytofindcasksandtheowner’swillingnesstosharethem.Dependingonyourpointofview,grainwhiskyiseitherScotland’sdirtylittlesecretor,inCompassBox’swords,a‘little-knowntreasure’.
Thisprovesjusthowgooditcanbe.Ifyoureallylikeit,thenthereisanevenhardertofindandmuchmoreexpensive‘reserve’versioncalledHedonismMaximus.Thishassimilarcharacterbuttheflavoursaremuchdeeper,evensweeterandmuchmoreintensegiventhe42-and29-year-oldwhiskies.
Aswehavecometoexpectfromthisinnovativecompany,thepackagingisaselegantandstylishasthestuffinthebottle.Likealllimitedreleasewhiskiesexpectsomebatchvariation.ColourMidgold.Nose Vanillaandcoconut.Taste Sweet,velvetysmoothwithdiaphanouswavesof liquorice,Callard&
Bowser toffee(remember those?),hintsoforangeandloadedwithex-bourbonvanillaandmarzipanflavours.
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Finish Thearomasofchocolate,spiceandcoconutlingersatisfyinglyandholdtogetherwell.
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52 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
Suntoryn/a–thisisablendTherearecentresatSuntory’sYamazakiandHakushudistilleriesRare
www.suntory.com
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Hibiki
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17YearsOld
Beforemovingontothe30-year-oldversionofthisproduct(seenextentry),whichisexpensiveandveryhardtofind,youmightliketotryitsyoungerbrother,whichisaltogethermoreaffordable.YoumightalsorememberitfromitsappearanceintheexcellentOscar-winning2003movieLostinTranslation(abreakthroughroleforScarlettJohansson,asifyoucared).
Manywhotrythisforthefirsttimewilladmittobeingseducedbythepackaging,whichisfairenough,asitisbothveryattractiveandsufficientlydifferenttodrawattentiontoitselfwithoutbeingoutréorundulyoutrageous.Whichprobablydoesn’tsoundthatbigadealuntilyouconsiderhowmanywhiskiesthereareontheshelves,withoutevenbeginningtocountotherdistilledspirits,letalonewine–yougetthepicture?
SowelldonetoSuntory’sresourcefulmarketingdepartment,butallthey’vereallydoneisgiventhisstand-outwhiskyabottletomatch.Hibikimeans‘harmony’,apparently,andthedistillerythemselvesdescribethisas‘amasterblendofcarefullyselectedfull-bodiedmaltandgrainwhiskies.Thismulti-award-winningblendcreatesaprofoundaromawithanelegantandmellowwoodyrichness,accompaniedbysweet,long-lastingcitrusflavour.’
Foronce,thehypeisfullyjustified.InJapan,apparently,Hibiki17commandsapremiumabovesimilarlyagedsinglemaltsandIcanwellbelievethatthisisso.Itisreallyaverycompletewhisky,exceptionallyeasytodrinkwhileatthesametimeremainingcomplexandsomewhatalluring–thereisanelusivequalitytothetasteandfinishthatishardtopindown.TryandserveitblindtoyourfriendsandtheywilllikelybeamazedatthequalityandwillbeforcedtorethinktheirprejudicesandpreconceptionsaboutJapanesewhisky.Thisisworld-classstuff–sotrytoimaginehowgoodthe30YearsOldisgoingtobe!Colour Palegold.Nose Citrushints,vanilla,oakandfloral.Lightbutnotinsubstantial.Taste Quite complex and slow to evolve,with pine resin sweetness, vanilla
andtoffee.Somesaltyhintsasitopens.Developswithwaterorice.
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Finish Appearstofinishquitequickly,thenreappearstodelightandperplex.
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53 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
Suntoryn/a–thisisablendTherearecentresatSuntory’sYamazakiandHakushudistilleriesRare
www.suntory.com
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Hibiki
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30YearsOld
What’sthebestblendedwhiskyintheworld?It’saScotch,naturally.Well,notintheopinionofthejudgesattheWorldWhiskiesAwardsin2007and2008whoawardedthattitletothispremiumwhiskyfromSuntory.Mindyou,itshouldn’thavebeenacompletesurprise:Hibiki30alsocollectedthehighestlevelofawardattheInternationalSpiritsCompetitionin2004andthenagainin2006,2007and2008.In2007theyalsopickedupaBestinClass.Theseawardsarejudgedblind,bytheway,withanumberofexperiencedjudgessoit’sworthnotingwhiskiesthatwinregularly.
JapaneseblendsareratherdifferentfromthoseproducedinScotland.Apartfromthefactthatthewhiskytastesdifferent,thesmallerJapaneseindustrydoesnotexchangeortradewhiskiesfromdifferentdistilleriesinthewaythatisthenorminScotland.Socompaniesrelyontheirownresources.
FortunatelyforSuntory,theirYamazakidistilleryhasanunusualvarietyofstills,twelveinallinsixdifferentshapesandsizes,producingawiderangeofflavours.TothistheyaddtheproduceofHakushu,Hibiki’shomedistillery,whereagainthereareanumberofdifferentstills.Andthentheyincreasetheiroptionsevenmorebyusingmanydifferenttypesofcasktomaturethespirit,includingJapaneseMizunaraoak.Asaresulttheblenderhasaremarkablywidevarietyofwhiskiestochoosefrom–infact,morethan30differentwhiskiesareblendedtocreateHibiki,usinggrainwhiskyfromSuntory’sChitadistillery.
Asyouwouldexpect,thisisanexpensiveproduct(expecttopay£500–600abottle)anditwilltakealittlebitofefforttotrackitdownbutitis,officially,thebestblendedwhiskyintheworld.Whatelsedoyoureallyneedtoknow?ColourDeepbeatencopper.Nose Raisin,figsanddateswithahintofBrazilnutandsweetdarkcocoa.Taste Darksweetnessandapleasantlingeringwoodiness.Finish Long,darkandveryrich.
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54 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
HighlandDistillersHighlandPark,Kirkwall,OrkneyYesPrettywidelyavailable
www.highlandpark.co.uk
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HighlandPark
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18YearsOld
ThisisthefirstoffourwhiskiesbyHighlandParklistedinthisbook.Four.Fromonedistillery?HaveIgonemad?
Idon’tthinkso.Youcouldmakeacasethatthisisthebestwhiskyintheworld.Certainlyit’swonmoreawardsthanIcanbebotheredtocountandatleastoneauthority(PaulPacult)thinksthatHighlandParkmake‘thebestspiritintheworld’.
Whatismore,whenIaskedmy‘oracles’HighlandParkwastheirrunawaywinner,gatheringnearlytwicethenominationsofanyotherbrand.Quiteafewofthepeoplewhovotedforitarecompetitorssothatisaprettyimpressiveendorsement.
ButlackingPaul’sebullienceandconfidentcertainty,I’llcontentmyselfwithsayingit’sprettydamnfine.You’regoingtohavetolookfarandwidetobeatthisstuff.Thereareseveralreasonswhy.Thedistillerysomewhatpretentiouslyrefertotheseastheir‘fivekeystones’sowedescenddangerouslyclosetomarketingspeakhere,butbearwithme.Theytalkabouttraditionalfloormalting,aromaticpeat,coolmaturation,sherryoakcasksandcarefulcaskrotation.
Thingis,it’snotjustmarketingfroth.I’velookedbackinhistoryandtheyweredoingmostofthisstuffasearlyas1924andprobablywellbeforethat,it’sjustthattheydidn’tbangonaboutit.So,withHighlandParkyougetaverytraditionalstyleofwhiskyfromaprivatelyownedScottishcompanyinafunky,modernbottlethatkeepsgettingbetterthemoretimeyouspendwithit(thewhisky,notthebottle).
ReadonforthreemorewhiskiesfromHighlandParkandpreparetobeamazed.Oh,andtryandgettothedistilleryatleastonceinyourlife.ColourMediumbrightgold.Nose Asweet,‘comehither’nose;sherryandmarzipan.
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Taste Fruity,rich,sweetandagreeablycomplex.Greatdepth.Finish Smokyhintsfadegentlyintothebackground.
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55 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
HighlandDistillersHighlandPark,Kirkwall,OrkneyYesExclusivetodutyfreeshops,soyou’llhavetoflytobuyit(sorry)
www.highlandpark.co.uk
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HighlandPark
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21YearsOld
I’mnotsupposedtohavefavouritesbut,asyou’verealisedbynow,HighlandParkisdefinitelyone.Orkneyisaspecialanduniqueplace,withastringofislandslinkedbycauseways,ferriesandplanes;ancientmonumentsscatteredeverywhere;athrivingandcreativecraftcommunity;incrediblelight;unexpectedpanoramasateveryturn;abandonedgunemplacements;amazingwildlifeandtwoincredibledistilleries.
NottoslightthenearbyScapaDistilleryinanyway(it’sprettygood)butHighlandParkisworld-class.Anditdoesn’tgetanybetter,atleastnotwithintheboundsofmostbudgets,thantheirsignature21YearsOldexpression.
Thiswasaworthywinnerofthe2009WorldWhiskiesAwardfortheWorld’sBestSingleMaltWhisky.Isatonthepanelanditdeservedeverymarkitgot.HighlandParkisnotedforincrediblebalance,longdevelopmentandasubtlepeatsmokethatcontinuestoengageandtantaliseandrewardyourtastebudsthemoretimeyouspendwithit.It’snottheforcefulpeatofIslaybutamorecomplexandrefinedflavourthattheobsessivesatHighlandParkmaintainisonlypossiblebyburningthreedifferenttypesofpeatfromtheirownpeatbog.
Butwatchout!Afterthesuccessofthiswhisky,demandincreasedgreatlyandthebottlingstrengthwasreducedfrom47.5%abvtoastandard40%soyoumaynotbedrinkingthewhiskythatgarneredallthepraise.There’snothingwrongwiththelatestbottlings,butsomeoldstockmightbeavailable–ifyouseeit,snapitup.
STOPPRESS:ThelatestnewsfromOrkneyisthatthey’llshortlyberevertingtothehigherstrengthsocheckthesmallprintonthelabelandgetthereallygoodstuff.ColourNaturalcolour;thedistillerssay‘reddishgoldOrkneysunset’butthat’s
abitfanciful!Nose Butterscotch,darkchocolateandorange.Taste Lush,fullflavourandgreatbalancewithcandiedorangepeelandspicy
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darkchocolate,leadingtoarichsmokysensationwithhintsofroastednuts.Ahoneyedsweetness.
Finish Rich,complexandsweetsmokysensationthensoft,medium-dryfinish.
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56 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
HighlandDistillersHighlandPark,Kirkwall,OrkneyYesPrettywidelyavailableinspecialistretailers
www.highlandpark.co.uk
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HighlandPark
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30YearsOld
HeregoeswhiskynumberthreefromHighlandParkandwearemovingintotherealmsofthetrulysublime–and,whatismore,trulysublimevalue.Yes,abottleofthiswillcostcloseto£200buttheequivalentinchateaubottledclaretwouldbeseveraltimesthatandthere’severybitasmuchtradition,craftsmanshipandqualityinthisbottle.And,ifyou’relookingforvalue,thisbottlewilllastratherlongerthantheclaret,especiallyasitcomesatahealthy48.1%abv.
Fortunately,thedistilleryhasprettygoodstocksoftheseolderwhiskiesandthisletsustasteamoretraditionalstyleofwhiskymaking.Forawhile,HighlandParkflirtedwithreducedpeatinglevels,asmostofthespiritwasdestinedforblendinglighterstylessuchasCuttySark,butthatisn’tthecasehere.
AgehastemperedthedistinctiveHighlandParksmokebutit’sstillclearlyevident,justmoresubtle.AndIlikethat.OnepersonaldifficultythatIhavewithsomeofthemoreaggressivelypeatedstylesisjustthat–aggressivepeating,whichformecanoftenbeoverlydominant,maskinginherentspiritcharacter.It’slikeagiantsteamrolleronthepalate.
Nodangerofthathere.Thereissomebroodingsmokiness,butitisbalancedbysweetnessandgreatvitalityandfreshnessforawhiskyofthisage.Theextrastrengthmeansit’sattractivelyfullinflavourand,unusuallyforanolderwhisky,canstandthecarefuladditionofwatertobringoutthemorearomaticnotes.Someskilleddistillinghasbeencomplementedbygoodwoodselectionandcarefulwarehousing,andtheresultisastellarwhiskythatiswortheverypenny.ColourDark.Nose Warmingandround;honeyandsmoke.Taste Beautifully balanced and full bodied; honey, vanilla, oak and smoke
dancingthroughthepalatebutneverdominating.Finish Alloftheabovegracefullycombine,fadingoutwithspiceandwhiffsof
gentlesmoke.
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57 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
HighlandDistillersHighlandPark,Kirkwall,OrkneyYesSurprisinglyeasytofindinspecialists,giventheageandprice!
www.highlandpark.co.uk
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HighlandPark
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40YearsOld
Takeaseat:thisisthemostexpensivewhiskyinthisbook.Expecttopayaround£800forabottle.Forthatyougetahandsomebox,leatherboundbookletanda48.3%abvspiritthatdeservedlywonthe2009WorldWhiskiesAwardforWorld’sBestNewRelease.
TherulehereisthatIwon’trecommendanythingover£1,000andanythinginthreefiguresneedscarefulthought.Butyoudon’tneedtohesitate.Buythiswithconfidence–inmyview(andthisissharedbyagoodpartofthewhiskycommunity)thisissimplyasgoodasitgets.Withthechangefromthe£1,000youcanbuysomeprettyfinedramsbutthis40YearsOldwantstobesetasideforveryspecialoccasionsandveryspecialfriends.Havingsaidthat,you’llmakeaspecialfriendoutofanyoneyouservethisto(providedtheyhaveanykindofcriticaljudgement)andyoushoulddrinkit–don’tjustsetitonashelfandgazewonderinglyuponit.Appreciate,don’tvenerateisthemottohere.
Thisisanexceptionallycomplexandrefinedwhiskywithmultiplelayersofflavourthatwillopenupinthemouthandonthefinishasyoucarefullysipandsavouryourdram.And,thenexttimeyougobacktoit,you’llfindsomethingmoreandsomethingdifferent.HighlandPark40justkeepsongrowinganddevelopingandrewardscarefulstudy.
ButIdon’twantyoutothinkofthisashardwork.Aboveall,thisisawhiskytoenjoy.Noteveryday,ofcourse,butitreallyisawhiskytotrybeforeyoudie.Andthenputthatoff,atleastuntilyoufinishthebottle.ColourMidgold.Usingrefillcasks,timehasaddedcolourveryslowly.Nose Surprisinglydelicateandrefined;stillfreshanddistinctively‘Highland
Park’withhoney,chocolateandsoftsmoke.Taste Ifawhiskycanpossess‘theXfactor’thishasgotit–justsensationally
complexandalluring.Superbbalanceandwaveafterwaveofflavour,withnooneelementdominant.
Finish After showingmore heather honey sweetness and hints of citrus, thesmokefloatsbackforalasthurrah.
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58 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
Whyte&MackayLtdIsleofJura,Craighouse,JuraYes–andaluxurious(forwhichread‘expensive’)holidayapartmentSpecialists
www.isleofjura.com
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IsleofJura
Superstition
AttheriskofoffendingthegoodfolksatWhyte&Mackay,I’dsaythat,ingeneral,theIsleofJurasinglemaltsarenothingtogettooexcitedabout.They’repleasantenoughbutprettybland,which,sincethisdistillerywasbuiltinthe1960stocreateemploymentonthislonelybutbeautifulislandandservetheblendingindustrywithaSpeyside-stylespirit,isnorealsurprise.
Inrecentyears,though,theyhavemadesomeeffortstoraisetheirprofileandthestandard10YearsOldisprettywidelyseen.Don’tbotherwiththat,though.Whatyouwant,ifyouwantanything,isSuperstition.
ThisisamixtureofheavilypeatedwhiskyintheIslaystyle(notoriginallywhatJurawasbuilttoproduce)andsomeoldercasksthataddwarmthandsubtlety.Accordingly,itdoesn’tcarryanagestatement,butdon’tletthatorthenameputyouoff.It’spleasantlydifferentfromthewhiskiesonnearbyIslay.
Juraitselfisnotableforbeinghometolessthan200peopleandaround5,000reddeer.Theywanderabouteverywhere–mainly,itseemstome,ontheisland’sonemainroadwheretheycanbesomethingofahazard.JurawasalsoGeorgeOrwell’srefugewhenheescapedfromLondontowrite1984andthesiteoftheinfamousKFoundationBurnaMillionQuidartevent.Yes,rockmusiciansturnedartistsBillDrummondandJimmyCautyquietlytravelledtoJuraandburnt£1min£50notes.Asyouwould.Obviously.
Withtheirfondnessforspecialeditions,IsleofJurareallyoughttocommemoratethis:averysmokydramat£50abottlewouldseemappropriate!ColourDeepbronze.Nose Wood smoke, bacon and freshly cut peat. Phenolic notes start to
dominate.Taste Spice,honey,pineandpeatflavoursminglewithnutsandgrassy/floral
notes.Finish Smokefadesinagainattheend.
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59 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
IrishDistillersGroupMidleton,Cork,IrelandTwo!OneinDublinandoneatMidletonDistillery,CorkSpecialists
www.jamesonwhiskey.com
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Jameson
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18YearsOldLimitedReserve
Jameson’sisthebest-sellingbrandofIrishwhiskeyand,undertheownershipofcorporategiantsPernodRicard,hasbeenexpandingrapidly.Thewhiskiescompriseablendofpotstillandgrainspirit,allproducedatthehugeMidletonDistillerynearCork.Withabewilderingrangeofstills,theplantiscapableofproducingaconsiderablevarietyofdifferentstyles,makingtheroleoftheMasterBlenderparticularlysignificant,especiallywhenanumberofdifferentcaskscomeintoplay.
Thoughit’shardlycheap–abottleofthe18YearOldwillsetyouback£70–Ijusthavetoletthisonethrough.IhadthegreatprivilegeoftastingareleaseofthiswithIrishDistillers’BarryCrockett,whowasbroughtupinacottageinthedistillery’sgroundsandtodayisMasterDistilleratMidleton.ThatwaswelloverayearagobutIbelieveIcanstillrecallthetaste,sodistinctiveaproductisit.
Thefactthatitimmediatelypickedupaclutchofsignificantawardsprovesthatthiswasnoflashinthepan.Acombinationofex-bourbonandsherrybarrelsareused,andthentheyareagedaccordingtothelabelfor‘atleast’18years.Icanbelieveit:thisissplendidlymature,withoutinanywayexhibitinganysignsofbeingoverlywoodyortired.
Thisisoneofalargerrange–thereisaSpecialReserve(12yearsold),aGoldReserve(non-agedbut13–14yearsoldonaverage),SignatureReserve(fordutyfreeonly),thisLimitedReserveandfinally,ifyourpursecanstretchevenfurther,abrilliantbutconfusinglynamedRarestVintageReserve,whichdoesn’tactuallycarryeitheranageoravintagedate,thoughitdoes(notveryhelpfully)carrythebottlingdate,currently2007.You’vegottoloveIrishmarketing!ColourDeepbronze.Nose AromaticChristmascake,honey,vanillaandtoffee.Taste Cloves,nutsandnuttyfudge,awonderfulbalance;andthebourbonand
oloroso sherry casks are beautifully integrated into a smooth andharmoniouswhole.Mediumbodybutcomplex.
Finish Holdstogetherwell,asalltheflavourslingernicely.
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60 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentre
Availability
Price
Diageon/a–thisisablend,but‘brandhome’isCardhuCardhuDistillery,Speyside(it’sjustalongtheroadfromTheMacallan)Everywhere–ifyoucan’tfindthisyou’renottryingveryhard
www.johnniewalker.com
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JohnnieWalker
BlackLabel
Intruth,thisisn’toneofmypersonalfavourites.IfindthisJohnnieWalkerexpressionanditslittlebrotherRedLabelalittletooharshandsmokyformytaste.
Butyoucan’targuewithsuccessandthisisoneofthebest-sellingpremiumblendsintheworld.Moretothepoint,ifyouaskaroundthewhiskyindustryBlackLabelkeepscomingupasafavouriteorawhiskywhichotherdistillersandblendersadmire.So,ifyoulikebigflavoursthenthisisonyourlist.
TodayJohnnieWalkerispartofDiageowho,in2009,controversiallyshutthedooroncloseto200yearsofwhiskyhistorywhentheyclosedtheirKilmarnockbottlingplant,thetraditionalWalkerhome.CueoutragefromthelocalsandScottishpoliticiansbutitdoesn’tappeartohavemadetheslightestbitofdifferencetotheworldwidelegionoffanswhoprobablyneitherknownorcarewhereKilmarnockis.Sorry,Kilmarnock.
TheBlackLabelblendcanbetracedbackto1867whenAlexanderWalkerlaunchedhis‘OldHighlandWhisky’inadistinctivesquarebottleandslantingblackandgoldlabel.Thesquarebottleprovedagreatboontothebrandindevelopingexportsales–becauseoftheshapemorebottlescouldbesqueezedintoanygivenspaceandshippingcostsreduced.Ofsuchsimplethingsarelegendsmade.
Butthereisalotmoretothisthanjustcleverpackaging.BlackLabelsucceedsnotsimplyasasymbolofaffluenceandstatusinmanymarketsbutbecauseformanyit’sthebenchmarkforapremiumblend.Thisisatraditionalwhiskythat’snottobeunder-estimated.Personally,Iwouldn’ttakeittomydesertisland,butalotofexpertjudgeswould.ColourAmediumbrightgold.Nose Maplesweetnesswithhintsofsmoke.Maltandcitrus.Taste Robust and forceful, thepeaty smoke to the forebut alsodried fruits,
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sherryandvanilla;neverunbalanced–powerwithdiscretion.Finish Mellow,spicyandagreatlate-nightdram.
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61 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentre
Availability
Price
Diageon/a–thisisablend,but‘brandhome’isCardhuCardhuDistillery,Speyside(it’sjustalongtheroadfromTheMacallan)Global,especiallyhigh-end,tax-freeoutlets
www.johnniewalker.com
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JohnnieWalker
BlueLabelKingGeorgeVEdition
Sometimesonlyluxurywilldo.Unadulterated,in-your-face,loadsamoney,show-offluxury.
Imagineyou’vegotaRussianoligarchtoimpress,orakeybusinesscontactintheFarEastneedsagift–thatistheKingGeorgeVEditionmoment.Becausethisfeelstomelikeanunashamedlyflamboyantwhiskyforthenouveauriche.Fromtheelaboratepresentationpackagingwiththetwinmonogrammedstudsyouneedtoremovetoopenthehugebox,tothedeliberatelytheatricalritualofopeningitshiddendoubledoors,thesilk-linedinteriorwiththeparchmentcertificate,thecrystaldecanteronitsmatchingplinth,andthemeticulouslydetailedandvery,veryheavycorkstopper,it’sallabouttheglamorouspackaging.
Except,d’oh,thisisalsoverygoodwhisky.Didyouimaginethatthebest-sellingScotchwhiskyintheworldwasgoingtoputitsnameonanyoldgutrot,justbecausetheboxlooksgood(spectacular,tobehonest)?
Youcanpayupto£1,000forasingleglass(yes,glass)ofsomeJohnnieWalkerstylesbutImaintainthat’sjustshowingoff–flagshipprojectsdesignedmainlyforPRimpact.So,formostofus,thismustremaintheultimateJohnnieWalker.Andveryfineitis,too,aswellitmightbeatapproaching£400abottle.
Sotreatyourselfatleastonceinyourlifeand,asyousip,askyourself,‘Whatarethepoorpeopledoingtonight?’ColourDeep and dark, suggestive of great age and some sherry casks in the
blend.Nose Initiallysweet,thenmorethanahintofsmokeandlotsofbody.Thisis
goingtobeBIG!Taste Averybig, forcefulwhisky, surprisinglyhoneyedandwellmannered,
with the smoky Port Ellen coming through late. Still vibrant andcomplex,despitetheageofsomeoftheblendconstituents.
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Finish A languorous, unhurried finish; very rounded, with the sweeterSpeysiderscomplementingthelastfadingnotesofpeatsmoke.
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62 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
KilchomanDistilleryCo.LtdKilchoman,IslayYesSpecialistsandonline
www.kilchomandistillery.com
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Kilchoman
I’mprobablystretchingmyownruleshere,becauseyou’regoingtohavetolookreallyhardtofindthis,butthephilosophybehindthisbookistoencourageentrepreneursandinnovatorsandtopersuadeyoutolookalittlebitfurtherforunusualanddeservingspirits,sobearwithme.
Ifweruleouttheillicitmanufactureofmoonshine,thisisprobablyascloseasyoucangetto‘traditional’distilling,atleastfromthepointofviewofscale.KilchomanisthefirstfarmhousedistillerytobebuiltinScotlandforaverylongwhile,andthefirstonIslayfor124years.Therearenowseveralsimilarprojectsinseveraldifferentcountriesinvariousstagesofcompletion,butKilchomanwassomethingofapioneeranddeservesrespectandsupportforthis,ifnothingelse.
ThevisionofenthusiastAnthonyWills,Kilchomanbegandistillingin2005andreleaseditsfirstwhiskyin2009(itsoldnewmakespiritpriortothat).Allthebarleyusedisgrownontheneighbouringfarm;thereisafloormalting;noneofthebarrelsleavetheislandduringmaturation;andthematuredspiritisbottledonIslay.However,theycanonlymakearound90,000litresofspiriteachyearandsosuppliesarerestricted:infact,theInauguralReleaseofjust8,300bottlessoldoutwithindays.Thealreadyhighpricespromptlydoubledonthesecondarymarketascollectorsviedforabottle.
However,theinitialwaveofenthusiasmhavingpassed,bottlesofsubsequentreleasesshouldbemoreaccessible,ifnotwidelyfound,butcertainlynotanycheaper.Trytotrackonedown,impressyourfriendsandsupportsomerealwhiskypeople.
NB:TheflavourofKilchomanwilldevelopoverthevariousreleasesasthespiritmatures,sothenotesbelowareaguide,basedontheInauguralReleaseedition.ColourAgedmainlyinex-bourbonbarrels,sopalestraw.Futurereleasesmay
bedarker.Nose Surprisingly fruity, plenty of peat smoke but delicate citrus notes
surprise.
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Taste Creamyandmouthcoating;driedfruits,smokeandtoffee.Finish Clean,refreshing,lingeringsmokehintsdriftonforsometime.
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63 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
BeamGlobalSpirits&Wine,Inc.JimBeam,ClermontDistillery,KentuckyYesSpecialistsandonline
www.knobcreek.comseealsowww.smallbatch.com
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KnobCreek
KnobCreekisanothersmallbatchbourbon,distilledatthelargeJimBeamdistilleryatClermont,Kentucky.Itgetsitsname,mildlytitillatingforUKdrinkersinavaguelysmuttysortofaway,fromacreek(stream)about20milesfromthedistillerythatranpastAbrahamLincoln’sboyhoodhome.Apparently,Lincoln’sfatherworkedinanothernearbydistilleryandLincolnhimselfwasrescuedfromdrowninginsaidstream.ItseemsthatnooneinthemarketingdepartmentconsideredthealternativeassociationsofthenameoutsideoftheUSA.
Anyway,withthatoutofthewaywecanmoveontothewhiskey.Thishasachievedasortofcultstatus,partlyduetotheastutemanagementofrecentshortagesofstockcreatingadditionalpent-updemand.Youcanevenbuyat-shirt,itselfalimitededition,tocommemoratethe‘drought’.
KnobCreekwascreatedbythelegendarydistillerBookerNoeinanattempttocreateapre-Prohibitionstyleofbourbonandalso,thoughthedistillerstendtoglossoverthisbit,tocomeupwithanAmericanofferingthatwouldmakebourbonfashionableagainandcompetewithsinglemaltScotch.
Inthat,smallbatchbourbonhasbeenagreatsuccess,withthis9-year-old,50%abvproductbeingoneofthecategoryleaders.
OthersfromBeamGlobalincludeBooker’s,BasilHayden’sandBaker’s.Naturally,theircompetitorshaveenteredthemarketwiththeirversionsalso.Asthesmallbatchhandlesuggests,suppliesofthesewhiskiescanbevariableandtheremaybeslightvariationsinstylefrombatchtobatch.It’sallpartofthecharmandthey’reunlikelytobelessthanverygood.ColourMidgold.Nose Nutty,darkcitrusandoak.Taste Rich,full-bodiedandcomplex.Somespicenotes.Finish Along,consistentfinishwithalingeringaftertaste.
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64 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
DiageoLagavulin,IslayYesSpecialistsandonline
www.malts.com
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Lagavulin
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16YearsOld
AeneasMacDonaldwritesofamanwho‘waskeptawakeforhoursinthenightbytheprolongedrhapsodiesoftwoHighlanders,menwhohadnothingelseincommonintheworldbuttheiraffectionforandpraiseofLagavulin’.Ithas,hesays,‘analmostlegendaryfame’.Thatwasin1930and,ifanything,itsfamehasgrown.Forfansoftherichlyphenolic,peaty,saltywhiskiesofIslaythisisprimusinterpares,thoughitmustbeallowedthatArdbegrunscloseinthepassionofitsdevotees.
UsingbarleymaltedatthenearbyPortEllenmaltings(alsoDiageo),Lagavulinisdistilledunusuallyslowly–aprocessthatthemakersclaimgives‘thecharacteristicroundnessandsoftmellowedges’tothespirit.Theycertainlytaketheirtimeovermaturation,withthestandardClassicMaltsbottlingbeingreleasedat16yearsold.RumourhasitthatJohnnyDepp,theteetotalactor,willhappilyorderaglassjusttonoseit,sostrikingisLagavulin’saroma(it’snotclearwhogetstopolishitofflater).MichaelJacksonfamouslydescribedthenoseas‘LapsangSouchongandfruitysherry’.Soundsgood,doesn’tit?
ThoughthereisamoreexpensiveDistiller’sEditionfinishedinPedroXimenezcasksandayounger,high-strengthversioncuriously,andunjustifiably,evenmoreexpensivestill,thisistheoneyouwant.Marvelatitsrichtextures,preparetobestunnedbythewavesofintenseflavourandsitdownbeforeyoutakeyourfirstsip–thisispotentstuff.
ReadonforanotherstunningwhiskyfromLagavulin’snext-doorneighbour.ColourDeepgold.Nose Intensepeatrush,followedbysweetorangesandtoffee.Taste Ahuge,mouth-fillingwhisky.Dry, thensomesherriedsweetnesswith
toffeeandasaltyhint.Finish Massivepeatsmokeandsaltyclimax.
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65 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
FortuneBrandsInc.Laphroaig,IslayYesSpecialistsandonline
www.laphroaig.com
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Laphroaig
QuarterCask
LaphroaigisthefirstofthreedistilleriesyoucometofollowingthecoastroadroundIslayoutofPortEllenanditpresentsasplendidsight.Thereisstillafloormaltingsonsiteandexcellentvisitorfacilities(thoughyoureallywanttoeatintheKilnCafeatArdbegjustalongtheroad).
TheQuarterCaskbottlingisasplendidattempttore-createastyleofwhiskythatwouldhavebeenmorecommonahundredormoreyearsagowhensmallercaskswereusedtomaturespirit.Thismayhavebeenbecausethefirkincask(holdingninegallons,oraround41litres)wasrelativelyfreelyavailable,duetoitsuseinthebrewingindustry,orbecausethesmallercaskwasmorepopularforprivatesalesor,asthedistillerythemselvesliketosuggest–ratherromantically–becausetheywereeasierforsmugglerstotransport!Possibly,allthreeplayedtheirpart.
Thekeypoint,however,isthatwhiskymaturesfasterinasmallercaskandthewoodhasagreaterinfluence(30%moreaccordingtothedistillers).Whatismore,intheirpursuitoftraditionLaphroaigdon’tchillfilterthiswhiskyandtheybottleitatahealthy48%abv.Goodonthem.
It’saclassicIslaymalt–salty,peaty,phenolicandveryfullflavoured.Hugelyimpressive.
Theresult,inmyopinionatleast,isahugeimprovementonthestandard10YearsOld(40%abv)–it’srounder,morevibrant,fullerandsweeter.EverythingyoulookforinLaphroaig,infact,andmore,provingonthisoccasion,atleast,thattheoldwaysreallywerebest.ColourQuitepale,likebeatenbronze.Nose Tons of peat smoke, sweetness, coconut cream and some chocolate
notes.Taste Bold and assertive, full bodied and mouth coating (higher strength
alcohol and non-chill filtering coming into play here) but gentle and
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sweetcomparedtothe10YearsOld.Finish Amazingly extended finish, with the peat smoke and some coal fires
comingintoplay.Spicenotesandthedistillerysay‘zestyorange’.Beatsme.
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66 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
J&AMitchell&Co.LtdSpringbank,Campbeltown,ArgyllandButeYesSpecialistsandonline
www.springbankwhisky.com
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Longrow
cv
TheoriginalLongrowwasanearlycasualtyinCampbeltown’slongandsorrydecline,butthenameatleastwasrestoredin1973whensomeheavilypeatedmaltwasdistilledatSpringbanktoprovethatIslayneednothaveamonopolyonthisstyle.EventuallytheideacaughtonandLongrowisnowdistilledregularly,thoughnotingreatvolume.
SoyoucouldsaythatLongrowispeatedSpringbank–exceptthatitisn’t.Thefactthatthemaltispeatedisclearlythekeydifferencebut,unlikeSpringbank,thisundergoesaconventionaldoubledistillation.Amixofsherryandbourboncasksareusedformaturationtocontributesweetnessandspicebeforethepeattakesover.
Longrowisn’texactlyeasytofindbutthenon-agedCVexpressionshouldturnupinspecialistsanditcanbepurchasedonlinefromthedistillery’swebsite.Likeallofthecompany’s‘standard’output,it’sbottledat46%abvandnon-chillfiltered–policiesthatIcanonlycommend.Theresultisgreatermouthfeelinthewhiskyandapleasingoilinessthatspeaksofthegenuinearticle:wouldthatmoredistillerswouldfollowthislead.Notetoconsumers–it’sworththeextracost!
Thisisnotthemostsubtlewhiskyyou’lleverencounterbut,despiteitsstrength,manytastersfinditgoeswellwithoutaddingwater.Ifyoulikebig,bold,assertiveflavoursandyou’ve‘done’Islaythenthisiswhereyougonext.Ifitappeals,thereisaLongrow100Proofversion,severalagedexpressionsandthestrangeGajaBarolofinish.ColourMidgold.Nose Supremebalancebetweenpeatsmoke,vanillaandcardamom.Taste Boldandassertive;robust.Vanillacomestothefore,thencitrus(lemon
marmalade?)andwavesofspiceandsmoke.Finish Surprisingly gentle and balanced, with the vanilla toffee coming
throughasthesmokeclears.
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67 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
MackmyraSvenskWhiskyABMackmyra,Valbo,SwedenPhonetochecktouravailabilitySpecialistsandonline
www.mackmyra.com
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Mackmyra
Oneofthereallyexcitingthingsabouttheworldofwhiskyinthelastdecadehasbeentheexplosionofnewproducers,allstrivingtooffertheirowndistinctiveslantonasimplemixtureofwater,barleyandyeast.Someoftheofferingshavesomewaytogoyet,whilesomearefascinating,buteventheverybestofthempresentaproblemforthisbook:availability.Thevastmajorityoftheseproducersaretiny,boutiqueoperationsproducingverylimitedquantitiesofwhiskythattendstoselloutveryquickly.
MackmyraisnottheonlywhiskydistilleryinSweden,thoughitwasthefirst,butbecauseit’sbeenaroundsince1999thereisachancethatyou’llbeabletotracksomeofitdown.Realistically,you’llhavetotakewhatyoucanget(thefirstreleaseinMarch2006soldoutinlessthananhour)butthat’snohardship.
Thisismorethanacuriosity.Thereareanumberofspecialeditionsandlimitedreleasesbutwhatyou’llprobablystumbleoverisaversionoftheirPreludium(theinitialreleasesfromthedistillery),butpossiblytheFirstEditionmightalsobeseen.Allareworthtrying:Mackmyrakeepexperimentingwithdifferentcasksandfinishes,andtheyevenmaturetheirwhisky50metresundergroundinanoldmine!
Youcanbuyyourowncaskfromthedistilleryandgoandvisitit.Beaware,however,thatMackmyraisnotinexpensive.PresumablyduetohighlabourcostsinSwedenandthefactthatallproductsarebottledataround46%abv,abottletypicallycostsaround£50–60(moreforPreludium,whichisalsoinasmaller-than-normalhalf-litrebottle).Worthit,though.Colour Palegold.Nose Fruitywithcitrus,pear,apple,honey,lightoakandcerealnotes.Taste Citrus,caramelandhoney.Alightsuggestionofoakmaybenoted.Finish Hintsofdarkchocolate.
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68 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailability
Price
FortuneBrands,Inc.Maker’sMark,Loretto,KentuckyYesSomesupermarketsandspecialists
www.makersmark.com
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Maker’sMark
ThisKentuckybourbonwasforsometimesomethingofacultamongdrinkersonbothsidesoftheAtlantic,drivenbythepersonalityoftheebullientBillSamuelsJr,adirectdescendantofthefounder.Imethimsomeyearsagoanditwasn’tlongbeforehehandedmeaguntolookat–anantiqueasithappenedbut,forasimplechaplikeme,itwasasomewhatunnervingmoment.
Itissomeyears,however,sincethedistillerywasprivatelyowned.Thoughitsmarketinglikestogivetheimpressionofindependence,thecompanyhasinfactpassedthroughseveralcorporatehandssince1981andistodaypartofFortuneBrands,whoalsoownJimBeam,LaphroaigandCanadianClubwhiskies,amongotherfamousnames.
Itstillappearsidiosyncratic,however–uniquelyamongstUSwhiskiesstylingitself‘whisky’intheScottishmanner;increasingproductionin2002bybuildingaseconddistilleryalongsidethefirst,insteadofsimplyexpandingtheexistingplant;androtatingtheirbarrelswithinthewarehouselevelstoachievemoreevenageing.
Itsappearanceisalsohighlydistinctive:asquarebottleiscappedbyredwax,whichdripsontothebottle.Moreimportantly,themashbillrecipedoesnotincludeanyrye,butrathercontainsexclusivelyyellowcorn,redwinterwheatandmaltedbarley.Distillationstartsinacolumnstillandisfinishedinacopperpotstill,allofwhichcontributetothefinalflavour.
Itisparticularlyappreciatedforitscomparativelygentleandsubtletaste,moremellowthanmanybourbons.Today,thoughmorewidelydistributedthanwhenthebrandwasbuilt,ithasmaintainedsomethingofareputationasadrinker’sdrink:oneforthose‘intheknow’.Nowthatincludesyou.ColourAmber.Nose Vanillaandspice,tropicalfruitsandsomesweetoakwood.Taste At45%abv,thisismediumtofullbodied,withspices(ginger),caramel
andamouth-coatingoiliness.
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Finish Somesmoke,delicatelycombiningwithhoneyedfruits.
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69 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
HeavenHillDistilleries,Inc.Bernheim,Louisville,KentuckyYesSpecialists
www.heaven-hill.com
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MellowCorn
Here’ssomethingunusualanduniquelyAmerican–thenearestthingyou’llgettomoonshinethat’slegal(theScotchequivalentis‘newmake’–seetheentryforGlenglassaugh’sSpiritDrink).It’sfarfromthenicestwhiskyyou’lldrink,atleastcomparedtotheotherslistedhere,butit’scheap,funandworthtrying(ifonlytounderstandthebeneficialinfluencesofmaltedbarleyandageing).
Butfirst,awordofexplanation.Beforetherewasbourbon,therewasstraightcornwhiskey.Today,cornwhiskeyismadewithaminimumof80%ofcorninthemashbillandmustbematured,ifitismaturedatall,inuncharrednewwhiteoakbarrelsorrefillbourbonbarrels.Theassociationiswithbootlegging,moonshineandgenerallydeprivingtheGovernmentoftheirshare,soitrepresentsadeeplyrootedAmericantradition,alsoexpressedinpopularculturethroughNASCARracingandTVshowssuchasTheDukesofHazzard.
Theproductionofmoonshinestillthrives,orsoonewoulddeducefromthenumberofhome-madestillsandassociatedequipmenttobeseenonvariousinternetauctionsitesbut,foralongtime,theonlymainstreamlegalproducerkeepingthetraditionalivewasHeavenHill–andgoodonthem,Isay.Somesmallercraftproducershavenowjoinedinthefun.
HeavenHillactuallymakesarange,includingDixieDewandJWCorn,whichseemstobetheupmarketone!GeorgiaMooncomesinthekindofjaryourgrannyusedtomakejamorpreservesandisevencheaper(andrawer)thanMellowCorn;thelabelonthisboaststhatit’s‘agedlessthan30days’whichatleastishonest.
Unlessyouwanttosaveacoupleofpounds,MellowCornistheonetotry.Itbenefitsfromtwoyears’ageingandcomesatauseful50%abv.Definitelyonetoserveblindtothewhiskysnobinyourlife.Colour Palegold.Nose Waxy(itshouldbe),withlighterfloralnotesandvanilla.Taste Surprisingly complex, with mouth-coating oiliness; some fruit and
toffee.
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Finish Quitelively;thefruit,woodandcaramelnoteshangoninthere.
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70 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
Availability
Price
WilliamGrant&SonsDistillersLtdn/a–thisisablendNone–butbothGlenfiddichandTheBalveniehavetoursSomesupermarketsandspecialists
www.monkeyshoulder.com
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MonkeyShoulder
Thisisn’treallywhatyou’dexpectfromWilliamGrants,makersofGlenfiddichandTheBalvenie.Thedeliberatelyfunkyname(which,asweshallsee,hassomewhiskyheritage–butreally!);thepainfullyhipwebsiteandtheemphasisoncocktailsandtrendystylebarsallsmackofanachinglyself-consciousmarketingstrategy.
Thethingis,it’sprettydecentwhiskyanditappearstohaveworkedso,astheyoungpeopleapparentlysay,‘respect’.Sowhatisit?Technically,it’sblendedmalt–thatistosay,amixtureofseveralsinglemaltsbutnograinwhisky(thatwouldmakeitanordinaryblend).Beinginthefortunatepositionofowningseveraldistilleries,GrantsblendedsomeGlenfiddich,someBalvenieandsomeKininvie(athirddistilleryontheirDufftownsitetheytendtokeepquietabout)tocreateawhiskydesignedforeasydrinkinganduseincocktails.
ItwascreatedbytheirMasterBlenderDavidStewart,astraditionalawhiskymanasyou’llfind,andispreparedinsmallbatchesofcarefullyselectedcasksthatthenundergofurthermaturationbeforebottling.
Rathertongue-in-cheekilyIfeel,Grantsrefertoitintheirpromotionalliteratureas‘triplemaltScotchwhisky’.Theyoughttoknowbetter,butwe’llletthatpass.Ithasbeenenthusiasticallypickedupbyanumberofrathermorecutting-edgebarsinthosemarketswhereit’sbeenreleasedsofarandhascollectedafewawards.
It’salsocompetitivelypriced,withfunpackagingfeaturingthreemonkeysclimbinguptheneckofthebottle.Andthename?Itreferstoaconditionwhichapparentlyaffectedtheworkersonthemaltingfloorafterturningmaltbyhand.Not,asyoumightexpect,somekindofmonkeybusiness.
Findsomeonewhodoesn’tlikewhiskyandtrythisonthem,perhapsinoneofthevariouscocktailssuggestedonthebrand’swebsite.Infact,goape!Colour Brightgold,withcoppertints.Nose Vanilla,lemonzestandfreshfruit.
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Taste You’llprobablymixitbutbananas(no,really),somespiceandhintsofcitrus.
Finish Relaxedandfairlyshortfinish,butholdstogetherwell.
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71 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
DiageoMortlach,Dufftown,BanffshireNoneSpecialists
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Mortlach
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16YearsOld
Forreasonswhicharen’tentirelyclear,MortlachnevermadeitintoDiageo’sClassicMaltsselection,probablybecausethemajorityofoutputfromtheclassicSpeysidedistillery–Dufftown’sfirst–isrequiredforblending,whereitisamajorcomponentinJohnnieWalker.
It’sashamebecausethereisalotheretoengagewhiskyfans.Wehavethedistillery’shistoricalsignificance:builtoriginallyin1823,itwasbrieflyabreweryandevenachurch,andWilliamGrantwasManagerherebeforestartingGlenfiddich.Thedistillerywasentirelyremodelledinthe1960sbutretainedtheunorthodoxarrangementofthestills.AtMortlachtherearethreewashstillsandthreespiritstills.Conventionalenoughyoumightthink,butallaredifferentsizesandthedistillationprocess,sometimesreferredtoas‘partialtripledistillation’,isunique.
Inaddition,Mortlachhasretaineditsexternalwormtubcondensersandtheresult,afterlengthymaturation,isabig,meaty,full-flavouredwhiskythatiswelllikedbythosefortunateenoughtogetabottle.Sadly,visitingthedistilleryisdifficultasthereisnovisitorcentreandpublicaccessisrestricted.
Thereareanumberofindependentthird-partybottlingsavailableand,overtheyears,Diageohavereleasedsomespecialeditions,mostrecentlytheManager’sChoiceexpression(just240bottlesat£250fora12-year-oldwhisky–littlewonderthatthisexercisewasgreetedwithsomescepticisminafewwhiskybloggingcircles).
Butit’shardlynecessarytosplashouttothisextent.Thestandard16YearsOldbottlingwillappealtoloversofsubstantial,robustwhiskiescapableofcomplexityandsurprisingsubtlety(butjustimagineifitwereofferednon-chillfilteredat46%abv).ThelateMichaelJacksondescribedMortlachas‘statuesque’and‘elegant’,oncewritingthat,‘IfindnewaromasandflavourseverytimeIraisetheglass.’Iwouldnotpresumetodisagree.ColourDarkandrich,thecaskinfluenceisevident.
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Nose Immediate sherrycask impact, rich fruit cakearomas,but floralnotesalsodevelop.
Taste Rich, meaty and solid; dried fruit and some burnt notes (notunpleasant).
Finish Spiceandwoodcomethroughwithhintsofsmoke.
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72 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
NikkaYoichiandMiyagikyoDistilleries,JapanYesatbothsitesSpecialists
www.nikka.com
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Nikka
AllMalt
Payattention:thisisvery,veryinterestingandpossiblyunique.Thisisanon-aged,blendedmaltwhiskyusingpotstillmaltwhiskyfromNikka’sYoichiandMiyagikyodistilleriesandsomewhiskydistilledinacontinuous(Coffey)stillatMiyagikyo,fromamashcomprising100%maltedbarley.
SoifsuchathingwasevermadeinScotlandthewords‘maltwhisky’couldn’tappearastheScotchWhiskyAssociation(SWA)havedeterminedthatmaltwhiskycannotbemadeinacolumnstill,evenifthestillisentirelymadeofcopperandthemashis100%maltedbarley.Thishasledtosomecontroversywithdistillers,suchasLochLomond(curiously,notmembersoftheSWA)pointingouttheillogicalityofthispositionandsomecommentatorssuggestingthatthisisbothabartoinnovationandthatitsuppressesmovestowardsagreener,moreenergy-efficientindustry.
IamnotaloneinarguingthatthisishorriblyreminiscentoftheattitudeoftheBritishmanufacturingindustryinthe1950sand1960swhenwestillmadecars,TVs,shipsandsoonuntilhideboundmanagement,intransigenttradeunionsandcomplacentpoliticiansallowedimports(oftenfromJapan,asithappens)totakeoverourmarkets.Thisisnottoadoptaxenophobic‘littleBritain’mentality,butsimplytoobservethatallthingschange;thatinnovationisthelifebloodofconsumermarketingandthathangingontosomeself-servingvisionofauthenticity,traditionalpracticeandheritage(thatowesmoretomarketingspinthanhistoricalfacts)maywellprovesomethingofablindalley.
ButthecumulativewisdomoftheScotchwhiskyindustrydisagreeswithmeand,aswasobservedasearlyas1930,thatcomprisesabodyofmenwell‘assuredoftheircommercialacumen’.Well,weshallsee–Ishallbehappytobeprovedwrong.
Anyway,theyarenotsohideboundinJapanandsowecantryandjudgeforourselves.Thisissomethingofabargainanddeliciousinagentle,self-effacingsortofaway.
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Colour Richgold.Nose Clean,delicatewithhintsofcereal.Taste Mouth coating, toffee and vanilla; malty with pear fruit and vanilla
development.Finish Lightbutconsistentandholdstogetherwell.
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73 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
DiageoOban,ArgyllandButeYesSpecialistsandpossiblysomebettersupermarkets
www.malts.com
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Oban
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14YearsOld
ThisisoneoftheDiageoClassicMaltsrange,soithardlyneedspromotinghere.Yetitalwaysseemstomethatthiswhiskylacksthefameandglamourofsomeofitsstablemates.Perhapstheownersdon’tpromoteitasheavily,asproductionisrestrictedbyOban’slimitedscaleandstockswouldrapidlyrunoutifeveryoneknewjusthowgoodthiswas.
ThedistilleryliesattheheartofthisrathercharmingWestHighlandtown,whichhasgrownuproundit,somuchsothatit’simpossibletoseehowitcouldnowbeexpanded.Butperhapsthat’sagoodthing,asthecharactercan’tbechangedbygrowthandthingswillgoonprettymuchastheyhaveinlivingmemory.
Therearetwo‘standard’expressions–at14YearsOldandtheso-calledDistiller’sEdition,whichisfinishedinsherrycasks.TherearealsooccasionalspecialreleasessuchastheManager’sChoice.Frankly,theseseemtomerathercynicallydesignedforthecollectors’marketandthereisagrowingbodyofopinionthattheymightjustbeatadover-priced.
Butwedon’tneedtoworrybecauseitleavesmoreofthedelicious14-year-oldstyleforus.Thisislovelystuff!Bagsofcomplexity,saltandsmokebutneverunbalancedorover-bearingindelivery;theinitialimpressionisthenovertakenbydriedfruitsandacitricsweetnessthatfadesgentlywithmoresmokeandmaltynotes.Greatvalueatunder£40.IfyoufindsomeoftheIslaymaltsjusttoomuch,thenyoumayfindthisexactlytoyourtaste.Personally,Iloveit.ColourMidgold.Nose Freshandcleanwithasaltytang;somefruitandwhiffsofsmoke.Taste Medium body, soft and mouth coating; initially sweet but develops
greater complexity with spice, orange, drifting smoke and dries as itevolves.
Finish Is the salty tang imagined by association? Only another glass cananswerthisconundrum!
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74 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
InverHouseDistillersLtdOldPulteney,Wick,CaithnessYesSpecialistsandpossiblysomebettersupermarkets
www.oldpulteney.com
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OldPulteney
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17YearsOld
‘WhenIgotofanagetounderstandOldPulteney,Icouldadmireitsqualitywhenwellmatured,recognisinginitsomeofthestrongcharacteristicsofthenortherntemperament.’SoobservedoneofScotland’sfinestwritersandwhisky’smostardentchampions,NeilM.Gunn,inhis1935classicWhisky&Scotland(tryandreaditoneday).
Well,OldPulteneyisstillpossessedofasingularcharacterandnowhereisthisexpressedmoreremarkablyandforcefullythaninthis17YearOldexpression.ThisdistilleryislocatedonthecoastatWickandmakesmuchplayofitscoastallocationandthecuriousflat-toppedstills.Ithaschangedhandsonanumberofoccasionsduringitslonglifebut,today,seemstobereallyvaluedbyitsownersInverHouse.Theyhaveworkedhardtopromotethebrandandhavereleasedanumberofinterestingexpressions,includingavenerable30YearsOld.
But,foritscombinationofexceptionaltasteandrealvalue,I’dhavetopicktheir17YearsOld(thereisa21-year-oldversion,butitseemstomejustatrifleoveraged).Totellthetruth,ifthisteenagerwasonIslay,whiskyfanswouldbefightingtogetit,savouringthepiquant,saltytasteandthelong,lingeringfinish.Sometasterspickuppineappleandcoconutnotes,whileotherspraisethesweet/saltbalance.Personally,Ilovethesaltinesswhichthengiveswaytovanillaandadeliciouslycreamy,mouth-filling(it’sbottledat46%abv),slightlysweetorange,beforefadingawaygently.
Thishaswonanumberofsignificantawardsinthelastfewyears–thejudgescertainlyknewwhattheyweredoing.NeilGunnwouldloveitandhewasafinejudgeofwhisky.ColourVerypalefortheage,butpredominantlymaturedinex-bourbonwood.Nose Sweetandyetsalty;loadsofhoney,vanillaandlemon.Taste Remarkably complex and justifies taking time over it; malted barley
notesrolloverintosomeliquoriceandchocolateflavours,withasteadydrumbeatofsalteverpresent.
Finish Goesonandon,dryingandfadingsteadilyandconsistently.
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75 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
IrishDistillersMidleton,Cork,IrelandYesSpecialistsandpossiblysomebettersupermarkets
www.irishdistillers.ie
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Redbreast
Let’sassumethatyoucouldn’tfindanyGreenSpot(noparticularsurprise).Thisiswhatyouneedtoget–notthatthisisinanywaysecondbestand,at12yearsofage,ithassomeadditionalmaturitytoshowoff.Again,thisisanIrishpotstillwhiskeyandthussomethingofararity,thoughyouwillfindRedbreastalittleeasiertotrackdownthantheelusiveGreenSpot.
IrishDistillersistodaypartofthegiantPernodRicardgroupandtheytaketheirdistillingveryseriously.YoucanvisitthedistillerynearCork,thoughwhatyouseeisactuallyamuseumandvisitorcentre,albeitaverygoodone,intheolddistillerywhichnolongerproduces.Therealworkgoesonjustoutofsightatamodernplantwitharemarkablerangeofstills,producingallkindsofspirit(includingginandvodka).Needlesstosay,youdon’tgettoseethat.
Redbreastwasoriginallyproducedin1939forGilbey’sbytheoriginalJamesondistillery.Butafterthatclosed,stocksofmaturingwhiskeyranoutandthebrandwaswithdrawn.ObservingtherefusalofGreenSpottodieandtheupsurgeinsinglemaltScotch,IrishDistillersbroughtitbackasa12-year-oldfromMidleton,togeneralacclaim.Amixofbothsherryandbourboncasksgointotheblendandthefull-onstyleisaclassicofitstype.
Thisisamajorawardwinnerandalwaysscoreshighlyinindependenttastings.Greatvalueatunder£30.ColourAsubtlebronzedgold.Nose Tonsofbodyonthenose,promisingexcitementwithin!Taste Amassivewhiskey,butwithplentygoingonand layersof flavour to
explore.Sweet,withlotsofripefruitandspicenotes.Honeyedbrioche.Veryfullandoilyfora40%abv.
Finish Stickwithitforwavesofvanilla,honey,oakandspice.
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76 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
ChivasBrothersLtdScapa,OrkneyNoSpecialistsandpossibledutyfree
www.chivasbrothers.comseealsowww.scapamalt.com
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Scapa
14/16YearsOld
DramaticallylocatedonOrkney’sfamousScapaFlow,thelittleScapadistilleryhassufferedfromturbulenthistory,inconsistentmarketingandthedominantshadowofitsmorefamousneighbourHighlandPark.It’sstillworthpayingattentiontothislittlegem,however.Youhavetobecarefulwhatyoubuy,though,andtoappreciatethatyouhavetounderstandsomeofthehistory.
By2004Scapapresentedadolefulappearance;muchoftheroofwasmissing,andtheelectricalsystemoutofactionanditwasgenerallyassumedthatitwasdoomed.However,togeneralsurprise,over£2mwasthenspentonacompleterefurbishment–thoughitremainsfirmlyclosedtothepublic.ThefollowingyearPernodRicard’sChivasBrothersacquiredthedistilleryand,again,therewererumoursofclosureorpossiblydisposal.
Hope,though,sprangupamongloversofthisuglyduckling–perhapsaswanwouldemergeafterall.Forsomeyears,a14-year-oldexpressionhadbeenmarketedinadesultoryfashion,butitwasappreciatedbyconnoisseurswantingtoexplorealighter,unpeatedislandstylethatwasquiteunique.However,Chivasrelaunchedthebrandanda16-year-oldexpressionwasreleased–sadly,notinmyviewagreattriumph.
Thepriceshotupandforthatyougetarathermoreelegantbottleandboxbutthewhiskyissomethingofananticlimax.Becausetherewasinsufficientstocktogoroundalltheirworldmarkets,thedecisionwastakentobottleat40%abv.Mistake.It’sratherthin(chillfilteredtoboot)andlacksrealdistinction,thoughit’sperfectlypleasant,withsomehoneyflavoursandasaltybite.What’smore,Ithinkyoucanignoreallthemarketing-speakonthewebsiteabouttheLomondwashstill:inmyviewitisn’t.It’sbeenheavilymodifiedand,withitsinternalplatesremoved,it’ssimplyapotstillwitharatherunusualheadandneck.Sothere!
SonotastingnotesherebecauseIdon’tknowwhichwhiskyyou’regoingtofind.Whatyoureallyneedtodoisfindamerchantbottlingandcrossyourfingersit’sagoodone–theGordon&MacPhailandProvenanceversionshave
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attractedsomepraise.
Isuppose,feelingcharitable,youcouldbuytheofficialversionifonlytoencouragethem.Theyhavetried,afterall,todotherightthingandit’sabigimprovementonthelastlot’sfeebleefforts.
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77 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailability
Price
TheSpencerfieldSpiritsCompanyn/a– this isablendofvariousmaltsproducedbyWhyte&Mackayn/aSpecialistsandpossiblysomebettersupermarkets
www.spencerfieldspirit.com
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SheepDip
Godlovesatrier,orsotheysay.Well,SpencerfieldSpiritsarecertainlytrying.
ThecompanywasformedwhenAlexNicol,thenatWhyte&Mackaybutwithalongindustrycareer,felloutwithhisbossesandleft.Nothingunusualtherebut,inplaceoftheusualseverancepackage,hetookwithhimtherightstotheunlovedSheepDipbrand,whichwasthenlanguishinginthecorporatecellars,andsignedasupplyagreementforwhisky.
ThenheconvincedW&M’sMasterBlender,theebullientRichardPaterson,toworkwithhimandtogethertheycreatedanewblendedmaltforSheepDip.Backintheday,SheepDiphadbeenacultsuccess,butitreliedonindependentownershiptogivethebrandanditscustomersthenecessarytimeandattention.Incorporatehandsitjustwasn’tapriorityanditslowlyfadedaway.
AlexandhiswifeJanehavechangedallthat.Havinggotthewhiskyrighttheyinvestedinsomedramaticnewpackagingandanoldhorsebox,whichtheydriveroundvariouscountryfairssamplingtheproductandsellingbottles.Slowlybutsurely,it’sgatheringanewfollowingandoncepeopletryabottletheywantmore.AndsoSheepDipisslowlyandpainfully,bottlebybottle,gettingbackonitsfeet.
Iwouldn’ttellyouallthisifitwasn’talsoverygoodwhisky.It’sagreatstoryandagreatwhiskyfromsomegreatpeople(Alex:willthatdo?).Oh,andtheyhaveagreatwebsite,aswell,whichtellsyouallthisinsomuchmorelovingdetail.Colour Rich,warminggold.Nose Quitefloralwithhoney,maltandfreshfruits.Taste Dominated by solid Highland and Speyside malts, this has plenty of
weightwithoutlackingsubtletyorbalance.Finish LotstolookforastheIslaycomponentfinallykicksin,addingsmoke;
somespicelingersalso.
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78 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
IanMacleodDistillersLtdn/an/aSpecialists
www.smokehead.co.uk
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Smokehead
ExtraBlack
Aargh!Thisisoneofthose‘Ronseal’whiskies:itdoesexactlywhatitsaysonthechunkytin.Idon’treallylikeitbut,ifyourtasterunstobig,peaty,smokymonstersthenyouneedtotryit.Frankly,Ifinditallabittoomuch,butIcan’tdenyit’saroller-coasterofadram.Actually,it’smoreofaweaponofmassdestruction–tomytastebudsatleast.Ineededagoodnight’ssleepbeforethepalatewasclearandtheworkoftastingcouldcontinue.
Forthatreason,bewarned–thistakesnoprisoners.It’san18-year-oldIslaysinglemalt(unspecified,butoneoftheextremeones)bottledbytheexcellentIanMacleodDistillerstotakeadvantageofthecurrentvogueforpeatywhisky.Ican’timaginewhatelsethey’dusethisfor:thetiniestdropinablendingvatandthetastewoulddominatethefinishedproduct.
Thereisalittlebrother,theregularSmokehead.Butifyoulikethiskindofthing,whybotherwiththemonkey,whenyoucanhavetheorgangrinder?IsawExtraBlackcomparedtotheamplifierthatgoesallthewayupto11inSpinalTap.Thisisjustasrockandrollasthat.Andaspointless,really,unless11iswhereyouwanttogo.
I’llleaveituptoyou.Youhavebeenwarned.Andit’snotparticularlycheapeither.Butthat’srockandrollforyou.Colour Curiously pale. I don’t think this has ever seen the inside of a sherry
cask.Nose Peat,smoke,moresmoke,morepeat.Salt.Thenpeat.Taste Explosionsof spice,pepper and,yes,peat smoke. Justhugewavesof
peat.Andsalt.Finish Excuseme,Ihavetoleavenowandgetaglassofwater.
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79 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
InverHouseDistillersLtdSpeyburn,Rothes,BanffshireNoSpecialists
www.speyburn.com
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Speyburn
Solera25YearsOld
Alittle-knownbuttraditionalandveryattractiveSpeysidedistillery,Speyburndeserveswiderfame.The10-year-oldstyleenjoyssomesuccessintheUSA,asmuchbecauseofaggressivepricingasanythingelse,butyouhardlyseeitintheUK,whichisagreatshame.Andnovisitorcentreeither,alsoashame.
AnotherclassicCharlesDoigdesign,thedistillerywasbuiltin1897attheendofthegreatVictorianwhiskyboom,andforyearswaspartoftheDCL.Theyfirstmothballeditinresponsetotheover-productionofthe1980s(theso-called‘whiskyloch’)butthankfullysoldittoAirdrie-basedInverHouseDistillersin1991.
Mostofthespiritgoesforblendingbutthedistilleryofferthespectacular25-year-oldSoleraexpressionwhichis,asthesayinggoes,‘todiefor’.Itisquiteremarkablygood.Infact,Idon’treallythinktheyknowhowgooditis,becauseyoucanfindabottleinUKspecialistsataround£70,whichisjustsilly.
Butdon’ttellthem–justsnapupabottleorthreeandenjoyarich,luscious,classicSpeysideratatasty46%abvwhich,withabetter-knownnameandsomesexydesignerpackaging,wouldhavewhiskyfansqueuingroundtheblocktogivethreefiguresforabottleofit.Infact,ifyoupouredthisintoabottleof—We’dbetternotexplorethatthoughtanyfurther!
Sufficeittosaythisisaverywell-keptsecret.Youcan’tvisitthedistillery(shame)andbottlesarehardtofindbutIpromiseyou’llbeimpressed.Getsomebeforeanyonetellstheowners.Colour Curiouslypalefortheage,butanattractivelightgold.Nose Softoakandvanilla.Honey,fruitcakeandsomelightsmoke.Taste Mouthcoating,richandwarm;butteredhoneysweetness,burntorange
anddelicateoaknotes.Finish Smooth,well-balancedandconsistent.Maybeahintofdarkorange,just
attheend.
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80 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
J&AMitchell&Co.LtdSpringbank,Campbeltown,ArgyllandButeYesSpecialists
www.springbankwhisky.com
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Springbank
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10YearsOld
OnceuponatimethetownofCampbeltownwasoneofthemostimportantandrespecteddistillingcentresinScotland.But,overtheyearsandforavarietyofreasons,itdeclineduntilonlyonereallyactivedistillerywasleft–Springbank.
Itstruggledonduringthe1970sand1980sassomethingofananachronism,ahistoricalcuriosity,quirky,stubbornlyindependentandalmostwilfullyresistanttochange.In1987thelateMichaelJacksonrecordedthatits‘verytraditionalplanthasnotproducedforsomeyears’.
However,therewerealwaysafewdie-hardenthusiastsandkeepersofthetrueflameandtheownersresolutelysoldieredon,obliviousto‘progress’.Inthosedaysyoucouldbuyyourowncaskbut,sadly,theywon’tletyoudothatanymore.Asthesinglemaltboomgatheredpaceintheearly1990s,Springbankbegantoacquireacult,almostmythic,statusgreatlyenhancedbyitsremotelocation(evenbyScottishstandardsCampbeltownisawkwardtoreach)andthedistillery’shermit-likereluctancetoembracepublicity.
Theplantisstilltraditional–infact,walkingroundthedistilleryislikesteppingintoaVictoriandistillingtextbook–andSpringbankadherestoanunusual2?timesdistillationprocess(thereisaverygoodexplanationontheirwebsite,soI’mnotevengoingtotry).Thisandthefloormalting,lackofchillfiltrationorcolouringandlabour-intensiveproductionmeanthatSpringbankisarguablythemosttraditionalofScotchwhisky.
Inrecentyearsithasflourishedandtheownershaveevenbeensoboldastoopenanewdistillery,Kilkerran.AvarietyofstylesareproducedatSpringbankandtheyvarydramatically(seeentryforLongrow)butthisisthestandardandmostwidelyavailable.A‘musthave’whiskyifthereeverwasone.Colour Thishasbeenknowntovaryaccordingtothecaskstheyusefrompale
goldtoadarkershade.Don’tworry–it’sjustpartoftheidiosyncraticfun.
Nose Expectleather,somepeatsmokehints,spicesandasaltynote.
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Taste More saltiness, nutmeg and cinnamon, orange peel and, bizarrely,vinegar.Butnice.
Finish Slightly perfumed with a sweet/salt tussle going on. Hints of smokelingerattheend.
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81 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
TheEnglishWhiskyCo.StGeorge’sDistillery,Roudham,NorfolkYesSpecialists
www.englishwhisky.co.uk
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StGeorge’s
I’mtakingasmallgamblehereandassumingthatbythetimethisgetsintobookshopstheinitialhypeandexcitementsurroundingEnglishwhiskywillhavewornoffandproductswillbeavailableonceagain.For,atthetimeofwriting,StGeorge’shavebeensoswampedbyordersthattheyhavesoldoutoftheirfirstwhiskyandhavesuspendedtheironlineshop.
ThedistillerywasfoundedbyJamesandAndrewNelstrop,Norfolkfarmers,andbegandistillinginNovember2006withthelegendarylainHenderson(fromIslay)incharge.Unlikesomeotherpeople’smorespeculativeprojects,theNelstropswereabletofinancethedevelopmentfromtheirownresourcesand,asaresult,progressonthedistillerywasrapid.
Theyhavetakentheadmirablestepofnotpre-sellingwhiskyuntiltheywereactuallyinproduction,asopposedtosomeotherwould-bedistillerypromoters.Indeed,AndrewNelstroptakesastronglineonthis,commentingthat:‘floggingcasksbeforeyou’vebuiltthedistilleryisacrime,’ashetoldthe2009WorldWhiskiesConference.I,forone,thinkhe’sright.Ifyou’retemptedto‘invest’insuchaschemegoandliedownforawhileuntilthemoodpasses!
Englishwhiskyisnotactuallynew.TherewerewhiskydistilleriesinEnglandinthe1800sbuttheyallclosedbytheturnofthecentury.Withexcellentqualitybarleyonhand,first-rateequipmentandaverypositiveattitudethereisnoreasonwhyStGeorge’scan’tflourishand,indeed,becomethefirstofmanyEnglishwhiskydistilleries.
ThereisanexcellentvisitorcentreatRoudham(somepeopleactuallyplantogetmarriedthere)andyoucantourthedistilleryandtastearangeofproducts,fromnewmakespiritto,bythetimeyoureadthis,four-year-oldwhisky.It’sdefinitelyaventuretosupport–innovative,hand-craftedandhighlyindividual,thisisthekindofthingthatbringsmuch-neededvariety,excitementandinteresttothewhiskyscene.
Initialimpressionsofthenewmakeandthefirstreleaseofathree-year-oldwhiskyinDecember2009wereverypositivesoitseemssafetosuggestyoucan
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buywithconfidence.
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82 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
DiageoTalisker,SkyeYesSpecialistsandpossiblysomebettersupermarkets
www.malts.com
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Talisker
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10YearsOld
AnotheroftheClassicMaltsrangefromDiageo,Taliskerhaslongbeenpraisedforitsbrazen,up-front,uncompromisingflavours.Likeanumberoftherecommendationshere,it’saveryforcefulproductindeed.
Personally,they’renotmyfavouritesbutit’shardtodenythatlotsofpeoplelikethemand,oncetheytrythisstyle,absolutelyfallinlovewithit–allthemoreso,inthiscase,ifyouvisitthedistillery(andyoushouldtryto).
OutofthevariousdifferentreleasesI’drecommendthe‘standard’10YearsOldasanintroductiontoTalisker,andthenyoucanmoveontothe18YearsOld(seenextentry).
Taliskerhaslonghaditsfans:in1880RobertLouisStevensonlisteditasoneofthethree‘kingo’drinks’andinhisseminalandhighlyinfluentialbookWhisky(1930)AeneasMacDonaldhadTaliskerwrestlingwithClynelishforinclusioninhislistofthetwelvemostdistinguishedofHighlandwhiskies.
Todaythedistilleryrunsalongquitetraditionallines.Itstilluseswoodenwormtubsand,uniquely,thelynearmsonthewashstillsaredesignedtotrapvapoursfromthefirstdistillationbeforetheyreachtheoutsidewormtubs,whileasmallsecondarycopperpipecarriesthetrappedvapoursbacktothewashstillsforaseconddistillation.Alsotraditionally,andcommendably,Taliskerisbottledathigherstrength(here45.8%abv)justtoaddtothefun.
Ifthedistillationsoundscomplicated,it’sbecauseitis,butallthishasahuge,ifnotfullyunderstood,influenceonflavour:theresulthastobeexperiencedtobecompletelyappreciated.Oncetastedneverforgotten.Colour Brightgold.Nose Assertivemarinecharacterwithwavesofsmoke.Taste Surprises with some sweetness, then fruits, smoke and seaweed take
over.Somecommentators recommend trying itwithseafood–oystersorgoodsmokedsalmonseemtowork.
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Finish Lots to give here with the sweetness coming back and a distinctivesharppepperbite.
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83 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
DiageoTalisker,SkyeYesSpecialistsandpossiblysomebettersupermarkets
www.malts.com
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Talisker
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18YearsOld
AsIhavesaid,Ipersonallyfindthisstyleofwhiskyratheroverwhelming.Greatforafterdinner,perhaps,ordrunkoutofdoors,butjusttoomuchlikehardworktodrinkonitsownorwhena‘quietdram’iscalledfor.Ihaveapersonaltheorythatthere’salargeelementoffashionatworkhere–butI’vebeatenthatdrumelsewhereand,tostretchthatmetaphor,there’snodoubtI’moutofstepandmarchingtoadifferenttune.
So,anotherTalisker,becauseIdon’tforamomentdenyitsgreatness.Movingupfromthe‘standard’10YearsOldweencounterthisbeastie.It’sbeenwidelypraisedbyenthusiastsandwaschosenas‘BestWhiskyintheWorld2007’intheWorldWhiskiesAwards.Idon’tholdwithsuchhyperbole(itwouldn’tbemypersonalbest,inanyevent)butitdoesindicatetheesteeminwhichthisdramisheld.
Mindyou,onawell-knownmerchant’ssiteIsawaconsumercontributeatastingnotewhichread‘tasteslikecombingyourhair’.Thismaywellbeafirst.Iamstillstrugglingtoworkoutwhatwasmeant.
DiageohasworkedhardwithTalisker,exploitingitsdistinctivetasteanditsuniquepositionasSkye’sonlydistillery(therearetentativeplansforafarmhousecompetitorbut,whilethat’sawonderfulidea,ifyouaskme,itwillneverhappen).Aswellasthe10-and18-year-oldstylessuggestedhere,thereareanumberofmoreexpensivespecialeditions,limitedreleasesandoccasionaldistilleryexclusivebottlings,whichmakethejourneyovertheseatoSkyeallthemorepleasurable.
And,ifyoureselloneBaytothecollectors,itcanbeprofitable.NotthatIwouldrecommendthatforamoment,youunderstand,notevenforaprince’sransom.ColourDeeperthanitsyoungerbrother.Nose Everythingyouwantedbutmore!Moresmoke!Morepeat!Morefruits!
Justmore!Taste Toffee, peat and wood, of course, but well balanced with the citrus
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fruitinessandlingeringsweetnotes.Baconandorangemarmalade.Finish WavesofflavourgivewaytothetrademarkTaliskerpepperkick.
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84 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
Availability
Price
WilliamGrant&SonsDistillersLtdBalvenie,Dufftown,BanffshireYes–butbookinginadvanceisnecessarySpecialistsandpossiblysomebettersupermarkets
www.thebalvenie.com
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TheBalvenie
PortWood21YearsOld
TheBalvenieisthelittlebrothertoGlenfiddichand,forsomeyears,hasbeenratherunfairlyovershadowedbyitsstablemate(almostliterally,asithappens,asthedistilleryliesjustbelowtheGlenfiddichsite).
Morerecently,however,GrantshaveunderstoodthequalityofferedbyTheBalvenieandpromoteditmoreactivelywithagrowingrangeofreleases.Thedistilleryischaracterisedbymaintainingafloormalting,oneofthelastinScotland,andmaybeacquittedofthechargeofkeepingthisonsolelyforitstouristvaluebythefactthat,untilevenmorerecently,itwasclosedtothepublic.
However,youcannowtakeanexcellenttourwhich,thoughsuperficiallyexpensive,infactoffersgreatinsightintoproductionatTheBalvenieandculminateswithanextensivetastingofolderwhiskies,makingitverygoodvalue.Numbersarelimitedsoitisessentialtobookinadvance.Concentratingonthewhisky,theusualclichédaudio-visualpresentationisabsent(whichonlyenhancesthepleasure).
Therearearangeofexpressionsandstylesbutmyfavouriteisthe21-year-oldPortWoodfinish.Someofthesefinishescanbeoverdoneandthewhiskyspoiledbyanunsubtleuseofthesecondwood,butthiswascreatedbythehandofamaster.Delicateportwineflavoursdanceroundtheinherentspiritqualityinamesmerisingandquitebeguilingfashion.
DavidStewart,Grants’MasterBlender,hasspentlongerthanheprobablycarestoadmitintheindustryandiswidelyrespectedbyhispeers.Forme,thisisastellarachievement,fullyjustifyinghishighreputation.ColourWarmhighlightsinrichgold.Nose Raisins andnuts; continues todevelopawell-rounded sweetnessover
time.Taste Silky and full bodied, the port casks seduce but never swamp the
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underlyingspiritcharacter.Finish Lingers very nicely and continues to offer a well-mannered, nutty
memory.
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85 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
Availability
Price
WilliamGrant&SonsDistillersLtdBalvenie,Dufftown,BanffshireYes–butbookinginadvanceisnecessarySpecialistsandpossiblysomebettersupermarkets
www.thebalvenie.com
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TheBalvenie
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30YearsOld
Ifyoulikeolderwhisky,prefertheSpeysidestyleanddon’trequirelavishpackaging,thenthismightwellbeagoodchoice.
Thespiritherewouldhavebeendistilledinthelate1970sjustastheinfamous‘whiskyloch’wasfillingup.Forthoseofahistoricalturnofmind,thiswasaperiodofdisastrousover-productionatatimeoffallingsales,whichresultedindraconiandistilleryclosuresandtheensuinglossofsomefamousnames,suchasPortEllenandStMagdaleneinLinlithgow.ThisepisodeisregrettedtothisdayandhasleftenduringscarsontheScotchwhiskyindustry.
However,whilehardlyimmunefrombroadereconomicconditions,prudentlymanaged,privatelyownedcompaniesarenotasdrivenbytheshort-termdiktatsofthestockmarketastheirpubliclyquotedbrethren,nordotheyliveinconstantfearofbeingswallowedupbyalargerrival.Asaresult,theycanquietlycarryonlayingdownstock(solongastheycanpayforit)intheknowledgethatwhiskyhasalonghistoryofboomandbustandthat,eventually,thecarefullyhusbandedcaskswillacquirethestatusofliquidgold.
Thereiscurrentlyatrendforsomecompaniestoreleasebeautifullypackagedbutexpensivenon-agedwhiskies,arguingthatthebenefitsofageingareover-statedandthatqualityofblendingisall–youngerwhiskiesaddvibrancy,andallthat.Whilethereissometruthinthis,it’salsoafactthattheindustrycutproductionsodrasticallyintheearlytomid1980sthatmanyfirmssimplydon’thaveanyoldwhiskytosell–callmecynicalifyouwill,butthismaypartlyexplaintheiralmostmiraculousconversiontothe‘non-aged’camp!
Fortunately,thecautiousGrantfamilykeptsteadilyonandtodaywecanenjoythissplendidlymatureBalvenieatacracking47.3%abv.Expecttopaymorethan£300forabottlebutit’sworthit.Drinkto‘independence’asyousipadram.Colour Rich,darkgold.Nose Initiallypowdery,butdevelopsarichcomplexitywithhoneynotes.
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Taste Driedfruits,orangepeel,vanillaandChristmascakespices.Finish Rollsontofinishwithagentleburstofhoney.
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86 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
Whyte&MackayLtdDalmore,Alness,Ross-shireYesWidespreadinternationalavailability
www.thedalmore.com
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TheDalmore
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12YearsOld
IfindmyselfquiteconflictedaboutTheDalmoreanditssomewhatvulgarandostentatiousclaimtobethemostexpensivemaltwhiskyintheworld(abottleoftheir62YearsOldsoldoncefor£32,000).Theyhavequiteafewhigh-pricedandritzyexpressions,thoughhigh-pricedwhiskyain’tnecessarilygreatwhisky.However,thereareenoughbuyersouttherewhoconfusepricewithqualitytoensurethatthewhiskyindustrywillkeepproducingthese‘luxury’offerings.Afterall,theonlyreasonthatwenowhavewhiskiesat£10,000abottleisthattherearepeoplereadyandwillingtopay£10,000forabottle.But,let’sbeclear:thesearetrophies,notwhiskiesasmostofusunderstandtheterm.
Dalmorehassomehowmanagedtomuscleinonthisverytop-endmarket,previouslytheexclusivepreserveofbrandslikeTheMacallan,evenclaimingthatsomeoftheirproductshave‘aninvestmentvalue’.ThisseemstometobeplayingwithfireandwhenIseetheDalmorewebsiteusinglanguagesuchas‘alchemisticartistry’and‘dynamicdistillation’todescribetheirproductionprocessmyscepticismgrows.Thistypeofmarketingriskslosingtouchwithreality,letaloneaninformedaudiencewhoactuallycareaboutwhisky.
However,thoughthemarketingboysandgirlsatDalmoremayhavebeendrinkingtheirownbathwateryoudon’thaveto:therearestillsomedecentwhiskiesunderneathalltheirbreathlessincantationsandmumbo-jumbo.Putallthehypetoonesideandlooknofurtherthantheentry-levelofferingat12yearsold.A50/50blendofsherryandbourboncasks,thisisatextbookexampleofbalance,weightandcomplexitythatoffersgreatvalueformoney.
Youcouldalwayspouritintoacrystaldecanterforwhenthebosscomesround.ColourAlovelywarmgold.Nose Sweet,appetisingandcallingtoyou.Taste Well-balanced sherry and vanilla; dark oranges, spices and dark fruit
cake.Finish Gentlyfadeswithahintofnutsandcaramel.
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87 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailability
Price
ChivasBrothersLtdGlenlivet,Ballindalloch,BanffshireYesDifferentexpressionswidelyavailable
www.glenlivet.com
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TheGlenlivet
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21YearsOldArchive
Glenlivetmakemuchplayintheirmarketingoftheclaim‘thesinglemaltthatstarteditall’.Likemostmarketingclaims,there’ssometruthinthere,butperhapssomewhatembellished.Thisstatementreferstotheassertionthatthedistillery’sfounderGeorgeSmithwasthefirstlicenseddistillerunderanimportant1823ActofParliament.Well,sowhatexactly?Sincethenthedistilleryhasbeenexpandedbeyondrecognitionandproductionmethodshaveevolvedmorethanalittle.
Smith’sGlenlivetwasalwaysaby-wordforquality,though,andnotfornothingisthisparticularwhiskyallowedtostyleitself‘The’Glenlivet.SoIthinkhe’dprobablystillbeproudofthewhiskyproducedunderhisname,thoughwhathe’dmakeofitsFrenchownershipitmightbekindernottospeculate.
TheGlenlivetstyleischaracterisedbywhatisgenerallyidentifiedasa‘pineapple’noteandthathasbeenhighlyprizedbyblendersanddrinkersformorethanahundredyears.Withtheolderstyles,thatfruitnotecanstillbedetectedbutthewhiskyhasgreaterrichnessandsubtlety.Theimpactofextraageingandwoodqualitycanbeseenindeeperflavoursofchocolate,fruitcake,driedfruitsandthensomeengagingandcomplexspicenotes,which,forme,areahallmarkofolderGlenlivetsandarealstampofqualityanddrinkingsatisfaction.
IcouldeasilyhaveincludedmorethanoneGlenlivetinthislist,buttheyarewidelyavailable(especiallyintheUSA)andsoIwilldonomorethanremindyouthatthisisaverygreatwhisky,nottobedisregardedonaccountofitsrelativeubiquity,thusleavingspaceforequallyfinebutmoreobscuredrams.Colour Palecopper.Nose Panacotta,ripeplums,darkorangeandChristmascake.Taste Prunes, subtle coconut; rich and full-bodied with fruity tones. Add
waterslowly.Finish Long,rollingflavoursholdingtogetherwellforanextendedfinish.
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88 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
TheEdringtonGroupGlenrothes,Rothes,SpeysideNoSpecialistsandpossiblysomebettersupermarkets
www.theglenrothes.com
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TheGlenrothes
SelectReserve
Don’tmakethemistakeofconfusingthissplendidSpeysidesinglemaltwiththeratherdrabandutilitariannewtownofthesamenameinFife:thisisanythingbut!Infact,it’stuckedawayoffthemainstreetofRothesinSpeysideontheedgeoftheRothesburnbut,sincetheydon’thaveanypublicvisitorfacilities,thelocationisfairlyacademic.ThedistilleryisownedbyTheEdringtonGroupbutthebrandbelongstoBerryBros&Rudd,ofStJames’inLondon.
Foryears,thiswasastraightforwardproductionunitmakingawell-respectedwhiskythatwashighlydemandedforblending:CuttySarkandTheFamousGrouse,amongothers,relyonTheGlenrothes.Infact,despiteexpandingthedistillerytwice,demandwassogreatthattherewaslittleornostockleftforsaleasasinglemalt.However,in1987thefirsttentativestepsweretakenandsevenyearslaterBerryBros&Ruddhitontheideaofreleasingvintages(perhapsnotanundulyradicalstepforawinemerchant).
Sincethen,TheGlenrotheshasgoneontoconsiderablesuccessandsomeofthevintagebottlesfetchfancyprices.But,asastartingpoint,youcandoalotworsethantheSelectReserve,anon-vintagebottlingofTheGlenrotheswhichtypifiesthedistilleryhousecharacter–ripefruits,citrus,vanillaandhintsofspice–andisafinerepresentativeoftheclassicSpeysidestyle.It’snon-agedbutthepointhereisthedeliveryofconsistentcharacter.
TheGlenrothesistheantithesisoftheclassicIslaystyle,soifyouwantsmoky,peatywhiskythisisn’tforyou.However,foragentle,subtleandintriguingdramthatkeepsongiving,looknofurther.Greatwhiskyatagreatprice.Colour Palegold.Nose Lashings of vanilla and oak; plums and ripe mango; hints of spice.
Sweet.Taste Well-roundedon thepalate,withgreatbalanceandstyle.Dried fruits,
citrusnotesandslightlyfloral.Finish Acreamyfinishwithsubtlespicenotestowardtheend.
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89 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentre
Availability
Price
HighlandDistillersLtdMacallan,Craigellacchie,SpeysideYes–bookinginadvanceisnecessaryforthebettertoursSpecialistsandpossiblysomebettersupermarkets
www.themacallan.com
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TheMacallan
SherryOak10YearsOld
TheMacallanwasanearlypioneerinsinglemalt,earningitselfthesobriquet‘theRolls-Royceofsinglemalts’,onwhichdescriptionithasbeendiningouteversince.Andnotwithoutgoodreasonfor,ifyoulikethisstyle,itisvery,verygood.
Butholdon,youcry–whatstyleisthat?Yourconfusionisunderstandable.Foryears,TheMacallanmadegreatplayoftheirexclusiveuseofsherrybarrelsforageingtheirwhisky,theninNovember2004theylaunchedtheirFineOakrange,whichdidn’t.Initially,puristswereoutragedbutTheMacallanhashadthelastlaughastheirsaleshavebeenhighlyimpressiveeversince–infact,thisisconsistentlyoneofthefastest-growingsinglemaltsthereis,sopresumablythey’redoingsomethingright.Recently,becausetheyweredoingsowell,theyreopenedamothballedstillhousewithsomeratherattractivedisplaysforyoutostudy.
This,then,isthe‘standard’expression(atleastintheUK;internationallythe12YearsOldisthenorm)andabenchmarkforthesherry-agedstyle.TheMacallangotogreatpainstoselectandcontrolthewoodfortheirbarrelsanditshows:thisisrich,darkandfull-bodiedbutneveroppressive.
It’sworthmakingthetriptothedistillerytoseetheimpressiveexhibitiononwood,whichdetailstheforestry,cooperageandwarehousingpracticethatgoesintoTheMacallan.Todaythereareabewilderingnumberofexpressionsandanynumberoflimitedreleases(some,Isuspect,justforthecollector)butthisistheflagshipandagreatplacetostartexploringthisgrandoldmaltthathasdonesomuchtobuildunderstandingandappreciationoffinewhisky.ColourDeep,naturalcolourfromsherrycaskageing.Nose Immediatesweetness,maltandtoffee.Taste Full bodied but graceful and well-balanced; this is a classic sherry
finish.Finish Thesweetnesscomesthroughwithcitrusnotes,hintsofsmokeandoak.
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90 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentre
Availability
Price
HighlandDistillersLtdMacallan,Craigellacchie,SpeysideYes–bookinginadvanceisnecessaryforthebettertoursSpecialistsandpossiblysomebettersupermarkets
www.themacallan.com
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TheMacallan
SherryOak18YearsOld
Asaquickglancearoundtheshelvesofanydecentspecialistretailerwillconfirm,therearequiteafewdifferentMacallansanditcangetconfusing.ThefirstthingtogetcleariswhetheryoupreferthetraditionalsherrystyleorthenewerFineOak–bothareverygoodbutverydifferent.Onceyougetthissortedoutyoucanbecomethesortofwhiskyborewhosendspeopletosleepatparties.
ThisisintheoriginalMacallanstyle–withlashingsofsherryonthenoseandpalateduetothehugeimpactofthesherrycasks.YoucanreadallaboutthisontheMacallanwebsiteorevenmakeapilgrimagetothedistillerywheretheyhaveanexhibitiononthesubject.AfewyearsagoitwouldhavebeenfairtosaythatthequalityoftheseolderMacallanswasvariable(Irememberwithashuddersamplingaparticularlyrubbery25yearold)–underthepreviousownerstherewasn’tquitethecareandattentionlavishedonwoodselectionasthereistoday.
Now,virtuallyallMacallanexpressionsareeagerlyconsumedbytheirworldwidelegionoffans.ThemarketingincreasinglytriestopositionMacallanasaluxuryicon’,whateverthatmaybe,butformethisisjustaveryfinewhiskyfordrinkingwithlike-mindedfriendsafterabigdinner.Ifthey’renotfriendstostartwith,theyshouldbeafteryou’veservedthis.
However,readon–therearemoreMacallanstotryandtobuy,thoughwe’regoingtosteerclearofthesuper-premium‘editions’andthemorelavishlypackagedone-offspecials.They’relargelyforcollectorsandPremierLeaguefootballers.We’renearlyattheendbutdon’tforget–thisisabookforwhiskylovers.ColourDramaticdarkmahogany–richanddeep.Nose Approachwithcare–thisisveryfull-onwithdramaticnotesofwood
andleather.Taste Powerfulsherryimpact,winenotes,somesmoke,chewyvanillafudge
withspicylayersofferingupOldeEnglishmarmaladeanddriedfruits.
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Finish Veryroundandconsistent.Somesmokehintsandclassiccakenotes.
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91 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
HighlandDistillersLtdMacallan,Craigellacchie,SpeysideYes–bookinginadvanceisnecessaryforthebettertoursSpecialists
www.themacallan.com
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TheMacallan
FineOak30YearsOld
Thisisasfaraswe’regoingwithTheMacallananditistheonerepresentativefromtheFineOakrangethatI’vepicked.Itmightbemoreeconomicallyprudenttostartwithits10YearsOldlittlebrother(it’sabout1/10ofthepriceforonething),orthestunning15YearsOld,butyouwon’tregretsplashingoutonabottleofthisbeauty.
Foronething,itwearsitsageverylightlyandisalmosteffervescentonthepalate,allthemoresowithasplashofwater.Thatmayseemstrange(itis,infact,strangesoItriedasecondsampleonanotherdaywiththesameresult)butIratherlikeit.WhatitshowsveryclearlyisthebasicintegrityandunderlyingqualityofTheMacallanspiritwithouttheusualsherryeffect.
There’salotofbodyherewithcomplextoffeeandvanillaandlayersofwoodandspice.Itdoesdemandsomeconcentrationandeffortonyourpart,buttheeffortwillberewardedwithamemorabletourthroughaveritableforestofoak.Butitneverdominatesoroverwhelmsandthatisthiswhisky’sgreatcharm.Thedistillersdescribedthisashaving‘arich,exotic,headyandaromaticnose–reminiscentofanorangegrove’but,whilethereissomesweetnessthere,Iassociatethecitricnotemorewiththe21YearsOldortheconsiderablymoreexpensive1824.
Whatever.Justbecarefulwhenyougetthisoutandwhoyouofferitto.It’salltooeasytodrinkandforgetthepricetag(it’llsetyoubackjustover£300intheUK).
Ican’trecommendtoomanywhiskiesatthislevelbutthisisveryhardtoresist.ColourMarkedlypalerthanitscounterparts;anattractiveyellowgold.Nose Toffee,vanilla,oakandsomesmokehints.Taste Exceptionally complex, rich and mouth coating; black cherry. Lively
withwater.Finish Quitecreamy,softandlingering.Layeredandsophisticated.
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92 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
TheWineSocietyn/a–thisisablendn/aTheWineSociety–Members’Listandwebsite
www.thewinesociety.com
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TheWineSociety
SpecialHighlandBlend
Payattention–thisisaserious,under-ratedandlittle-knownbargain.FirstyouhavetojoinTheWineSociety.Onceuponatimethiswasasortofupper-classriteofpassage,likeputtingyourchildrendownforEton,gettingelectedtotheMCCororderingyour12-borefromPurdeys.Nolonger–they’vedemocratisedtheSocietyandyoucanjoinonline(thoughtheirlabelstilllooksprettygoodinanunderstatedsortofawayatsmartdinnerparties).
Obviously,theymainlysellwine(andgreatvalueitis)buthiddenawayontheirlististhislittlebeauty.TheSocietyhashadtheirownblendforyears,layingdownnewfillingsintheirownsherrycasksandwaitingaremarkable14yearsuntilit’sready.Untilrecently,Edrington’sJohnRamsaywasinchargeoftheblendand,prudently,considerablestockshavebeenlaiddownfollowinghisrecentretirementsothequalityisassuredforsomeyearsahead.Onlyaprivatemembers’organisationcoulddothis.
Theblendisaround40%singlemalt,withthedelicious,meaty,full-bodiedSpeysiderMortlachatitsheart.ThoughthisisnotanEdringtondistilleryithas,infact,featuredinTheSociety’sSpecialHighlandBlendformanyyears.ThefastidiousSocietyinsistthatnocaramelisusedtocolourthewhiskybut,despitetheHighlandname,IdetectsomeIslaycontentintheblend–orperhapsthemightyTaliskerfindsitswayinthere.Afterall,thelabelfeaturesahandsomeillustrationofDunveganCastleonSkye,inhonouroftheSociety’sfirstChairman,thesplendidlynamedTheMacleodofMacleod.
Whatevertheexactblendrecipe,you’llgoalongwaybeforeyoubeatthisdiscreetlychic,understatedandmellowdram.Excellentvalue,andtheirotherprivatelabelwhiskiesarealsowellworthexploring.ColourMidgold.Nose Sherryimpactevidentandsuggestionsofage.Somesmokebehind.Taste Very full bodied; a robust and ‘solid’whisky,meaty and oily even at
40%abv.
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Finish Alingeringsweetnessremainsandplayswithfaintsmoketraces.
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93 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
CompassBoxWhiskyCompanyn/a–thisisablendinghousen/aSpecialists
www.compassboxwhisky.com
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TheSpiceTree
Thisisasomewhatcontroversialwhisky.ThefirstreleaseofTheSpiceTreeinsertedbrandnewoakstavesinthecasksusedtomaturethewhisky.Forreasonstooarcaneandlengthytogointohere,thisattractedthewrathoftheScotchWhiskyAssociation(SWA)whothreatenedCompassBoxwithlegalactioniftheydidn’tstop.TheensuingpublicitymeantthatthewhiskysoldoutinrecordtimebutCompassBoxfelttheycouldn’triskanyfurtherbatchesmadeinthisway.
However,theywerenotdeterredandspentthenextthreeyearstryingtofindamaturationmethodthatwaswithintherulesbutgavethesameeffect.Thisistheresult.Insteadofinsertingstavesintothecask,thecaskendsthemselveshavebeenheavilytoastedandthewhiskymaturedforafurthertwoyears.(ThereisadetailedandveryclearexplanationofthisontheCompassBoxwebsite.)It’snotimmediatelyevidentwhattheSWAobjectedtoexactly,otherthanmaintainingthattheprocesswasnot‘traditional’.Thisopensupawiderdebate,withanumberofcommentators(includingme)suggestingthattheSWAhasasomewhatelasticdefinitionoftraditionandthat,asaresult,itseemsthatmuchneededinnovationrisksbeingstifled.ProducersasdiverseasLochLomond,BruichladdichandCompassBoxhavealltakenissuewiththeSWA’sinterpretationoftheScotchWhiskyregulations,sofartoabsolutelynoavail.
However,thiswhiskyseemstobeacceptabletothegrandpanjandrumsandwecanallenjoyitwithaclearconscience.It’sblendedmalt,primarilyfromClynelish,andbottledat46%,hasanaturalcolourandisnon-chillfiltered.ByCompassBox’sstandardsit’snotparticularlyexpensiveand,asthisisasippingwhiskythatyou’lllingerover,abottlemaywelllastlongerthanyouthink.ColourAmber.Nose Quitefloralandthenspicy.Raisins,nutsandasuggestionofrosewater.Taste Brown bread, dark orange marmalade and brown sugar. Pronounced
spice and wood notes; a bold and assertive whisky for sipping.Marzipan.
Finish Complex and layered, this slips away slowlywith the spice and full-
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bodiedsweetvanillahangingonforsomethingofacrescendo!
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94 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
CooleyDistilleryPLCCooley,Riverstown,Dundalk,IrelandYes–toursbyappointmentonlySpecialists
www.tyrconnellwhiskey.com
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TheTyrconnell
TheresolutelyindependentCooleyDistillerywasrewardedforitspioneeringeffortswiththeawardofWorldDistilleroftheYearin2008andastaggeringtengoldmedalsfromtheInternationalWine&SpiritsCompetition(IWSC)in2009(followingninethepreviousyear).
Allthemoresurprisingthentolearnthatthedistilleryis,infact,aconvertedpotatoalcoholplantboughtin1987bytheenterprisingJohnTeelingandbackedbysome300shareholders.Twoyearsofhardworkfollowed,afterwhichCooleyDistillerywereabletofilltheirfirstcaskin1989.
However,TheTyrconnellhasamuchlongerhistoryandwasonceoneofIreland’sbest-knownwhiskeys.Thecompanyclaimthat,beforeProhibition,itwasamongthebest-sellingIrishwhiskeyintheUSA,pointingtoadvertisinghoardingsintheYankeestadiuminNewYorkasevidence.Thename,improbablyenough,comesfromthe100-1winneroftheIrishClassichorseraceTheNationalProduceStakeswhichin1876waswonbyTheTyrconnellracehorse,ownedbytheWattsfamilyofdistillers.Delightedwiththissuccessacommemorativewhiskeywaslaunched,whichcharmingstoryexplainsthesplendidlabelwithitsdelightfulperiodfeel,evenifthe1762dateonthepackagingisalittlehardertojustify.
ThewhiskeyitselfhasbeenamainstayforCooleyandtodaytherangehasbeenexpandedtoencompassextra-agedversions,variousfinishesandsomesingle-caskofferings,thebestofwhicharetrulysuperb.Butthesearegenerallyonlyinlimiteddistributionandthushardtofind.Whatismoreaccessibleisthestandardnon-agedSingleMalt.I’mtemptedtobeawhiskyknow-allandsuggestthatthiswouldbebetterbumpedupto46%abvandnon-chillfiltered,butthisisafinerepresentativeofthebestofIrishdistillingandagreatadvertisementforindependentownership.Colour Pale–bourbonmaturationatworkhere.Nose Citrusandspice.Cleanandappealing.Taste Somehoney,agreeablyoilyin thebody,citrus tangappealsandspice.
Mediumbody.
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Finish Evolvesagreeablywiththeprincipalcharacteristicsshowingwell.
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95 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
BurnStewartDistillersLtdTobermory,MullYes–toursbyappointmentSpecialists
www.tobermorymalt.com
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Tobermory
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15YearsOld
ThereissomethingundeniablyromanticabouttheideaofTobermorydistillery.Foronething,it’sonanisland.And,foranother,it’ssmallandhasbattledforsurvivalagainstalltheodds–thedistillerywasfoundedin1798(Barnardsays1823)butwas‘silent’forlongperiodsinthemid1800sand1930s,twicerevivedduringthe1970s,thenunderthreatofpropertydevelopmentuntilitcameintotheownershipofBurnStewartin1993.Soitwouldbeniceifitcouldsucceed.
Butthekindestthingthatonecouldsayaboutmuchofthewhisky,marketedalternatelyasTobermoryandLedaig,isthatthequalitywasvariable.Frankly,toadaptthewordsofthepoem,whenitwasgooditwasjustaboutOK,butwhenitwasbaditwashorrid.Ihavehadsomeshockersfromthisdistillery.However,atlast,there’ssomegoodnews.
Thewhiskycomingthroughnowhasbeendistilledbydeeplycommittedlong-termownersandundertheguidanceofthetraditionallymindedIanMcMillan,BurnStewart’sMasterBlenderandsomethingofazealot,thequalityofTobermoryismuchimproved.
Nowhereisthisseenmoreclearlythaninthis15-year-oldexpression(it’snocoincidencethatthedistillerychangedhands16yearsago),whichisverymuchlan’screation.ThecasksarestoredmainlyatBunnahabhainwhereeachyearheselectsaparcelofthebest.Thesearere-rackedinGonzalezByasssherrybuttsandsentbacktoMullforayear’sfurthermaturation(thereisverylimitedwarehousingthere)beforeitisbottled,non-chillfilterednaturally,at46.3%abvforloadsofcreamymouthfeel.
McMillan’smarketingcolleagueshavealsoraisedtheirgame,withanicebottle,handsomeboxandaninterestingwebsite.So,thereyouare–agoodnewsstory.Nowtrysome!Colour Richdeepgold.Nose Plentyofsherryimpact,darkorangemarmaladeandsomesuggestionof
smoke.
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Taste Amedium body. Fruit cake, chocolate, vanilla toffees, light oak andsomespicenotes.
Finish Nuts,spiceandsalt.
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96 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
TheSazeracCompanyforJPVanWinkle&SonBuffaloTrace,FranklinCounty,KentuckyYes–butbearinmindthisis theBuffaloTracedistilleryandtoursaredesignedwiththatinmindYou’llhavetoseekitout
www.oldripvanwinkle.com
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VanWinkle
FamilyReserveRye
Rye?Why?Youmightbegivingthisentrysomewrylooks.YoumighteventhinkthatVanWinkleisadaftnamemadeupbysomemarketingagency.
Wrong,wrong,wrong.Ryeiswhiskey’ssecret–thestylethatrefusedtodie.AstheInternationalHeraldTribuneputit:‘Ryewhiskeyistheworld’sgreatforgottenspirit,distinctive,complexanddelicious.Itoffersatactilepleasureunlikeanyotherwhiskeyintheworld.’
AndtheVanWinklecompanycantracethemselvesbacktothelate1800s(whichmakesthemAmericanwhiskeyaristocracy)whenJulianP.‘Pappy’VanWinkle,Sr.wasatravellingsalesmanfortheW.L.WellerandSonswholesalehouseinLouisville,haulinghissamplesroundthestatebyhorseandbuggy.
Afteracomplicatedhistory(lookitupifyou’reinterested,there’snospacehere)thecompanycontinuesinthehandsofJulianVanWinkleIIIandhisson,disappointinglynamedPreston.Likesomanyothergoodthings,theirwhiskies,mainlysoft,smooth,wheatedbourbons,aremadeattheBuffaloTraceDistillerynearLouisville.
Butthis13-year-oldryewhiskeystandsout.Ryeisn’tnormallyagedthatlongandtheresultisadelightfullycomplexandrewardingspiritthathasseducedmanyexperiencedtasters.PaulPacultgaveit5starsandscoresdon’tgohigherthanthat.GrababottleandtasteAmerica’soriginalwhiskey.
RyeisprobablywhatGeorgeWashingtonmade.It’scertainlywhattheWhiskeyRebellionof1794wasabout–and,ifwhiskeywasworthfightingover,youcancertainlygotothetroubleoftrackingdownabottle.Colour Richandwarming,withcopperhintsandhighlights.Nose Caramelandspice.Herbalnoseofsnuff.Taste Initially sweet,with toffeeand leather.Rancio.Developsdrying spice
andpeppernotes.
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Finish Driedfruitsemphasisethecomplexityasthisrichandpowerfulwhiskeyfadesdelightfullyaway.
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97 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
Austin,NicholsDistillingCo.(CampariGroup)WildTurkey,Lawrenceburg,KentuckyYesSpecialists
www.wildturkeybourbon.com
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WildTurkey
RareBreed
ThereareanumberofWildTurkeyvariants–astandardversionat8yearsold;anumberofagedversions;arye;Russell’sReserve,namedafterlegendaryMasterDistillerJimmyRussell;andevenaHoneyLiqueur(withitsownrathertacky‘AmericanHoney’calendar,fromacreativeteamthatapparentlyeatsregularlyinHootersandnodoubtbelievesthistheepitomeofupscalefinedining).Allaregood(withthepossibleexceptionofthecalendar)butIsuggestyouseekoutsomeWildTurkeyRareBreed.It’sasmallbatchKentuckyStraightBourbonWhiskey,blendedfrombarrelsatbetween6and12yearsofageandbottledatbarrelstrength(54.1%abv).
Thedistilleryhasbeenthroughseveralhands:mostrecentlyitwassoldbyPernodRicardtoraisecashtopayfortheirAbsolutvodkapurchase.ItnowbelongstotheItalianCampariGroup(theyalsoownGlenGrantinScotland).Atthetimeofwritingtheirplansforthebrandareunclearbutitwouldseemunlikelythattheywillintroducefundamentalchangetoawell-lovedbourbonicon,referencestowhichappearregularlyinpopularculture.Toursareavailableatthedistillery.
Thishigherstrengthspiritcantaketheadditionofsomewatertoopenupthemoredelicatearomas,butgocarefully.Itdoesnotrequiresignificantdilutionandmaybebestenjoyedasasippingwhiskey,forthoselongeveningsofcontemplation–unless,ofcourse,raucousrevelryismoretoyourtaste.Ifyoudotakeamomenttocontemplate,readthesmallbookletthatcomeswiththebottleandconsiderjoiningtheRareBreedSociety.
It’samarketingtooltohelpgatheryourcontactinformationbut,forabriefmoment,it’sfuntopretendthatyouareamemberofaprivilegedelite‘whoshareJimmyRussell’sdeepinterestinbourbonmakingandtasting’.Yeehah!ColourWarmredtoamber.Nose Highstrengthevidentinitially,thenberriesandvanillaandtoffee.Taste Caramel,corn,liquorice,somecitrusnotesandfreshredapples.
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Finish Highlycomplexandlayered,withafinalkick.
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98 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailability
Price
Brown-FormanCorporationWoodfordReserve,Versailles,KentuckyYesGoodinspecialistsandsomesupermarkets
www.woodreserve.com
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WoodfordReserve
Don’tmakethemistakeofaskingdirectionstoVersaillesinaEuropeanaccent(asIoncedid).Allyougetfromthelocalsareblanklooks–it’s‘Versales’!Butwhenyougettheresomethingsatleastwillseemfamiliar–especiallythestillroom.
Andthat’sbecausethedistinctivepotstillsinwhichWoodfordReserveisdistilledweremanufacturedinRothes,Scotland,andshippedtoKentuckywhereadistillerfromScotlandtaughtthelocalshowtousethem.
Singlebatchbourbonwas,inessence,theUS’sanswertothephenomenonofsinglemaltScotchandanattempttomakebourbon,whichhadacquiredablue-collarimage,chiconceagain.Well,it’sworkedandWoodfordReservewasoneofthefirsttoshowthatitcouldbedone.
Theparentcompany,Brown-FormanCorporation(whoalsoownJackDaniel’s),investedaround$14minrestoringtheoldLabrot&Grahamdistillerywhichtheyhadownedfor30yearsfrom1941.Theysolditin1971,boughtitbackin1994,turneditintoashowpiece,andrebrandeditasWoodfordReserve.
AtfirsttheproductcloselyresembledanotherB-Fbrand,OldForester,buttodayit’savattingofsomecolumnstillwhiskeywiththeoutputoftheL&Gpotstills,madeinsmallbatches.
Thedistillery,whichisonanunusualboutiquescalefortheUSA,hasafinevisitorcentre.Greatstressislaidonthelimestonespringwater,cypressfermentationvessels,smallpotstillsandstonewarehouses.TheresultisaKentuckyclassic,withmanyfans.ColourDarkhoney.Nose Vanillasweetness,honey,freshfruitsandhintsofchocolate.Taste Rich and warming, with layers of mint, tobacco, leather and fruit.
Smoothandfullbodied.WillseemsweettotheEuropeanpalate.
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Finish Smoothandwarming;veryconsistentandbalanced.
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99 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentre
Availability
Price
SuntoryYamazaki,nearOsaka,HonshuIsland,JapanYes–ratedasoneofthebestintheworldanditalsohasanexcellentwhiskymuseumGoodinspecialists,somesupermarketscarryyoungerages
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Yamazaki
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12YearsOld
LookoutScotland!Wakeup!
ThereusedtobeanarroganceinScotlandaboutJapanesewhisky,bestsummedupinaScotchWhiskyAssociationpublicationof1951:‘TheJapscametothiscountryyearsago,copiedourplantandevenemployedsomeofourSpeysidepersonnel.TheyproducedanimitationofSpeysideWhiskywhichwasnotgoodalthoughdrinkable.’
Suchpatronisingattitudesdiehardandmaybeobservedtothisday.TothosewhoholdthemIsay,‘LookattheBritishcarindustry–thenbeafraid,beveryafraid.’
ThefactisthatthebestJapanesewhiskyisvery,verygoodandvery,veryJapanese.Yes,theirrestlesslyinnovative,quality-obsessedproducerscopiedthebestofScottishpractice,butthentheyadaptedandimproveditforJapaneseconditions.Asaresult,Japanesewhiskyiscollectingprizes,winningmedalsandgrowingfast.Inthefouryearsto2007,Yamazaki’sEuropeansalesgrew23times.Fromasmallbase,admittedly,butitcan’tbeignored.Infact,whiskieslikethisshouldbecelebrated.
TheoriginalJapanesemaltdistillery,Yamazakiwasfoundedin1923atthesiteofafamouswatersourcewherethreeriversconverge.Thedistilleryisoftenshroudedinmistandthewarehousessitshelteredbyabambooforest.Japanesedistillersdon’tswap‘fillings’fortheirblendswithrivalssothestillsatYamazakiarealldifferentinsizeandshape,permittingabewilderingrangeofstylestobeproduced.
Tryanyyoucanfind.ThereareotherJapanesewhiskieslistedherebutthisoneisafavouriteandagreat,good-valueintroductiontoawholeotherworldofwhisky.ColourGold.Nose Vanilla,clovesandpanettone.
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Taste Medium bodied. Sweet, then spicy. Honey and lemon. Dried fruits.Wood.
Finish Dryandspicy.
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100 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentre
Availability
Price
SuntoryYamazaki,nearOsaka,HonshuIsland,JapanYes–ratedasoneofthebestintheworldanditalsohasanexcellentwhiskymuseumGoodinspecialists,somesupermarketscarryyoungerages
www.theyamazaki.jp
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Yamazaki
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18YearsOld
In1923,ShinjiroTorii,thefounderofSuntoryandapioneerofJapanesewhisky,builtJapan’sfirstmaltwhiskydistilleryintheValeofYamazaki.Usingcopperpotstills,theYamazakidistillerywasthefirstofitskindoutsideofScotland.Thedistillery’slocationontheoutskirtsofJapan’sancientcapitalofKyotoofferedpurewaters,diversityofclimateandhighhumidity–theidealenvironmentforthematurationofgoodwhisky.
Today,Suntory’sYamazakiisthemostpopularsinglemaltwhiskyinJapanandisenjoyedbywhiskyconnoisseursinmorethan25countries.ThevisitorcentreatYamazakiisalsoverypopularattractingaround100,000visitorsannuallyforthefree,90-minuteguidedtour.
ThisolderversionofYamazakiisrelativelyeasytofindintheUK.However,ifyoufindthatyoulikeit,therearealsoanumberoflimitedreleasesandspecialfinishes–though,thesearegenerallymoreexpensiveand/orhardertofind.Theextraagehaschangedthiswhiskyquitemarkedly,addingdepthanddistinctiontotheflavour.Wherethe12-year-oldispleasantlylight,thishasextrabodyandadditionalcomplexity,withoutinanywayfeelingoveraged.Byanystandard,it’sanimpressiveandenjoyablewhisky.
IntheUKSuntoryownMorrisonBowmoreandthereforehaveachievedquitewidespreaddistributioninlargersupermarkets,specialistsandwhiskybars.Theyhavebeenactiveinenteringcompetitivetastingsandthis18YearsOldexpressionhaswonmajorawardsfromtheInternationalWine&SpiritsCompetition,SanFranciscoWorldSpiritsCompetitionandtheBeverageTastingInstitute.Colour Coppergold.Nose Black cherry seems to be a Yamazaki signature, also some oakiness,
sherry,andtheageisevident.Taste Fullerthanthe12Years.Toffee.Earthy,dusty,rooty–it’swood,Jock,
butnotasweknowit.Driedfruits,mossandbark(butnobite).Finish Quite satisfyingly long and consistent. Some commentators get
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pomegranate.Idon’t.
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101 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
NikkaYoichi,Hokkaido,JapanYesSpecialists
www.nikka.com
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Yoichi
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10YearsOld
Thisisoneofthereallygreatwhiskystories–afittingendtothisexplorationof101whiskiestotrybeforeyoudie.
ThecompanythattodayweknowasNikkawasfoundedinJuly1934whenMasatakaTaketsuruboughtalargeparcelofreclaimedlandbytheYoichiRiver,asiteherecognisedasbeingidealforproducingwhiskyinaScottishstyle.ThishadbeenhisdreamsincestudyingdistillinginScotlandfrom1918–20(duringwhichtimehealsomarriedScotsgirlRitaCowan).HereturnedtoJapanin1920andhelpedestablishtheYamazakidistillery.
Buthewantedtobuild,ownandoperatehisown‘Scottish’distilleryinJapanand,assuch,heiswidelyhonouredasthe‘father’ofJapanesewhisky.TodayYoichiisownedbyAsahiBreweriesbutcontinuestooperateinahighlytraditionalmanner,withdirect-firingofthespiritstillsandwormtubsforcondensingthespirit.AselsewhereinJapan,thedistillerycanadaptquicklytodifferingstylesofwhisky,asaresultofwhichnospiritfromoutsidethecompanyisrequiredforblending.
TaketsurumanagedthecompanythroughWorldWar2,itsmergerwithAsahiandthedevelopmentofthecompany’sSendaidistilleryin1969.Heeventuallydiedin1979,aged85.In1989NikkaacquiredtheBenNevisdistilleryinFortWilliam,Scotland,andrestartedproductionthere,thuscompletingakindofacircleinthisremarkableman’scontributiontothehistoryanddevelopmentofwhiskyinbothJapanandScotland.
ThereareseveralexpressionsavailablebutthemostaccessibleintheUKisthis10-year-oldstyle.Various‘Nikka’brandedmaltsarealsoseen,someofwhichcontainwhiskyfromYoichi(e.g.NikkaBlackandNikkaTaketsurupuremalts).Drinkanyoftheseandraiseyourglasstoatruevisionaryandpioneer,whoreallytriedbeforehedied.ColourDeepbronze.Nose Boldanddirect,withpeatevident.Lightcitrusnotes.
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Taste Minty chocolate and orange oil.Creamymouth feel and delicate peatsmoke.
Finish Sweetness,peatandsomeantisepticnotesinalternatewaves.
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Howtotastewhiskyandusethisbook
Tastingwhisky–anywhisky–isstraightforward.Followthesesimplerulestogetthemostfromyourdram.
Usetherightglass.Atumblerishopeless.WhatyouneedistheGlencairnCrystalwhiskyglass(buyonlinefromwww.glencairn.co.uk).Ifyoucan’tfindthose,getasherrycopitaorbrandysniftertoconcentratevolatilearomasandhelpyou‘nose’thewhisky.
Fixthearomaandtastewithassociations–thesmellofnew-mowngrass,forexample,avanilla-flavouredtoffeeortherichtasteoffruitcake.
Addalittlewater.Itopensupthespiritandpreventsyourtastebudsfrombecomingnumbedbyalcohol.
Rollthewhiskyrightroundyourmouthand‘chew’it.Givetheflavourstimetodevelop:thewhiskyhasbeenageingforyears–giveitasleastasmanysecondsandtherewardswillbehuge.
Finally,thinkaboutthe‘finish’,orthelingeringtastethatremains.Howconsistentisit?Whatnewflavoursemerge?
Relax,keeppractisingandyou’llverysoondiscoverwhisky’suniquerichness.
Imagineyouwereabouttomakeatriptoaforeignland.Usethisbookasasortoftraveller’sguidetothenewcountry:itpointsyoutosomesightsthatyoudidn’tknowwerethereormightotherwisehaveignoredonyourjourney.Idon’tclaimtohavealltheanswers;Idon’tknowwhatwhiskyyoulikeandthere’snoreasonatalltoassumethatyou’lllikethesamewhiskiesasme.That’swhytherearenoscoreshere.Butyoucanbeassuredthateverywhiskyhereishereforareasonandthattheyaregood,oftengreat,whiskiesoftheirkind.
Sotrythematleastonce.Beforeyoudie.
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Acknowledgements
Mywife,Lindsay,hasbeenenormouslypatientandputupwithmygrumpymoodsandmentalabsenceswhilewritingthisbook.Presumablyshe’susedtoitbynow.Worryingly,sheclaimsthatshedidn’tnoticeanydifference.Eitherway,thebiggestthanksgotoher.
Myagent,JudyMoir,believedinthebookfromthestartandwaspositive,helpfulandencouraging.Herhusband,Neville,helpedaswell:heknowswhathedid!ThankstobothofthemandtoBobMcDevittatHachetteforhisenthusiasmandsupport.JoRoberts-Millerdidagreatjobeditingthebookindouble-quicktime.
Iruthlesslyexploitedmostofmycontactsinthewonderfulworldofwhiskybyaskingthemtonominatetheirthree‘DesertIslandDrams’,withoutrevealingthepurposeoftheenquiry.Thisgroupincludesdistillers,blenders,whiskywriters,retailers,companydirectorsandvisitorcentreguides–anyone,infact,whoseemstometotalksenseaboutwhiskyandwasableandwillingtooffersomeinsights.Therealreason,ofcourse,wastoensurethatIdidn’tmissanythingout.Theircumulativewisdomdrewmyattentiontomanygems.
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Inalphabeticalordermy‘oracles’were:
RussellAnderson,RaymondArmstrong,HelenArthur,DaveBroom,JonathanBrown,ChrisBunting,FrankColeman,YvesCosentino,RonnieCox,JasonCraig,KatherineCrisp,JimCryle,KathleenDiBenedetto,DrClemensDillmann,DuncanElphick,KevinErskine,JamesEspey,GrahamEunson,MichaelFraser-Milne,JohnGlaser,PeterGordon,LawrenceGraham,AlanGray,KenGrier,TeimeiHoriuchi,ProfessorPaulHughes,DavidHume,BarrieJackson,RichardJoynson,NaofumiKamiguchi,MikeKeiller,IainKennedy,DavidKing,JohnLamond,BillLark,JimLong,MhairiMacDonald,NeilMacDonald,IanMacIlwain,CharlieMacLean,IanMacMillan,NialMackinlay,AnabelMeikle,MarcinMiller,TatsuyaMinagawa,PhilipMorrice,PeterMuller,PeterMulryan,DavidNathan-Maister,StuartNickerson,AlexNicol,MartineNouet,BeckyOffringa,HansOffringa,BillOwens,RichardPaterson,BrettPontoni,VijayRekhi,KenRobertson,IngvarRonde,DominicRoskrow,FranzScheurer,ColinScott,JacquiSeargeant,SukhinderSingh,GavinDSmith,StuartSmith,DavidStewart,StevenSturgeon,JackTeeling,LukeTegner,JeffreyTopping,MisakoUdo,KerryWalshSkerry,IainWeir,NeilWilson,AlanWinchester,DavidWishart,IanWisniewskiandGrahamWright.
Mythankstoallofthem.
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Furtherresources
BooksTherearemany,manybooksandwebsitesaboutwhisky;somewouldsaytoomany.However,Ihavesuggestedjustafewhereforfurtherreading,theideabeing(likethelistofwhiskies)topointyouinvariousdirectionsinthepursuitofknowledge.
ThefirstmodernbookwrittenaboutwhiskywasAeneasMacDonald’sWhisky,reissuedinfacsimilein2006.Despiteitsage(itfirstappearedin1930)itiswellworthreadingasapoeticgeneralintroductiontoScotchwhiskythatisstillsurprisinglyrelevant.
ForthehistoryoftheScotchwhiskyindustryMichaelMossandJohnHume’sTheMakingofScotchWhiskyisvaluable,thoughdryandnowsomewhatdated.ScotchWhisky–ALiquidHistorybyCharlesMacleanisrathereasiergoing.AnytitlebyCharlieisworthreading.
GavinD.SmithisverystrongonthepeopleandpersonalitiesinScotch.LookoutforTheWhiskyMen.FortasteevaluationofScotchwhiskiestryWhiskyClassifiedbyDavidWishart.
ThereisverylittleinEnglishonJapanesewhisky.PerhapsthemostauthoritativeisJapaneseWhisky:Facts,FiguresandTastebyUlfBuxrud.Itdoeswhatitsaysinthetitle.IfthereisareallygoodbookonAmericanwhiskiesithaspassedmebyandanup-to-dateaccountofIrishwhiskeyisbadlyneeded.
Formorecomprehensivecoverageofallworldwhiskiesandabasicintroduction,lookforWorldWhiskyeditedbyCharlesMacLean.Iwasoneofanumberofcontributors.TheneweditionofthelateMichaelJackson’sMaltWhiskyCompanionhasbeencompiledbyDominicRoskrowandGavinD.Smithandisexhaustive.SomepeoplefindJimMurray’sannualWhiskyBibleuseful.Hetastesalmosteverything!
TheMaltWhiskyYearbookisissuedannuallyandcoversmorethanjustsingle
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malt.Itisaninvaluableguide;accurate,regularlyupdatedandamineofinterestinginformation,especiallyonnewdistilleries.
AtinylittlecompanycalledClassicExpressions,whichIrunwithacolleague,reprintsrarecollectableclassicsofwhiskywritinginnumberedlimitededitions–www.classicexpressions.co.uk.
Therearevariousmagazines.Perhapsthebest(inEnglish)areWhiskyMagazine(UK)anditsAmericancounterpartTheMaltAdvocate.
WebsitesThereareliterallyhundreds,perhapsthousands,ofwebsitesonwhisky,rangingfromtheexhaustivetothescanty,theauthoritativeandreliabletothefranklyeccentric.Bloggerscomeandgoandmaintaintheirsiteswithdifferentlevelsofenthusiasmandaccuracy.Virtuallyeverybrandofnotemaintainsitsownsite:ifyoureadbetweenthePRlinestheremaybesomeusefulinformation.
Giventhatthewebevolvesandchangesbothrapidlyandconstantly,thefollowingrecommendationsmaybeoflimitedvalue.However,forwhatitisworth,Idolookatthesesitesfairlyregularly.ApologiestothosethatIhavemissedorforgottenabout.Afewhours‘googling’willturnupmorewhiskysitesthanyouthoughtpossible.Goodluck!
www.irelandwhiskeytrail.com(exactlywhatyou’dexpectwiththatname)
www.maltmadness.com(setasideagoodchunkoftimeifyouventurehere)
www.maltmaniacs.org(Ican’timaginehowtheyfindthetimetokeepthisup!)
www.nonjatta.blogspot.com(reportsinEnglishfromJapan)
www.ralfy.com(thisisgreatfun)
www.whiskycast.com(authoritativewhiskypodcasts)
www.whiskyfun.com(‘it’saboutsinglemalts,music,enjoyinglifeingeneral’)
www.whiskyintelligence.com(newsupdatesandpressreleases)
www.whisky-pages.com(GavinD.Smith’stastingnotesandreviews)
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Wheretobuy
Therearenowagreatnumberofoff-licences(liquorstores)allroundtheworldthattradeaswhiskyspecialists,andmanyofthemareexcellent,withknowledgeableandenthusiasticstaff.IcanthinkofexamplesasfarawayasSwitzerland,Singapore,NewZealandand,ofcourse,theUSA.Newonesarespringingupallthetimeaswhiskygrowsinpopularityandthechoicetheyoffercanbedeliciouslybewildering.Intheinterestsofmysanitythough,thissectionisrestrictedtotheUK,wherefortunatelyforuswearespoiltforchoicewithexcellentspecialistwhiskyretailers.Thefollowinghaveparticularlygoodonlineshoppingfacilities:RoyalMileWhiskies,Edinburghwww.royalmilewhiskies.com
TheWhiskyExchange,Londonwww.thewhiskyexchange.com
LochFyneWhiskies,Inveraraywww.lochfynewhiskies.co.uk
Butideallyyoushouldbrowseandtalktosomeenthusiasticandwell-informedstaff.Therearemanymoregoodshops,notablyTheWhiskyShop(UKwide),TheWeeDram(Bakewell,Derbyshire),LincolnWhiskyShop,TheWhiskyShop(Dufftown),TheWhiskyCastle(Tomintoul),Arkwrights(Highworth,Wiltshire),ParkersofBanff,RobertGrahams(Glasgow),WhiskiesofScotland(Huntly),Nickolls&Perks(Stourbridge)andLuvians(StAndrews).
Aboveall,Gordon&MacPhail’sshopinElginisashrineandwellworthavisit.Seetheirentryinthe101.
InLondonyouwillfindTheWhiskyExchange,RoyalMileWhiskies,BerryBros&Rudd,Milroy’sofSohoandTheVintageHouse.Nationally,thebetterOddbinsstoreshaveagoodselectionofwhiskyandtheyhaveagoodwebsite,too.
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Picturecredits
Theauthorandpublisherwouldliketothankthefollowingforsupplyingthephotographsinthebook.Everyefforthasbeenmadetofulfilrequirementswithregardtoreproducingcopyrightmaterial.Theauthorandpublisherwillbegladtorectifyanyomissionsattheearliestopportunity.
IncidentalimageryPage6 TheSpencerfieldSpiritsCompanyPage12 HighlandPark
WhiskyimageryAberfeldy21 BacardiGlobalBrandLtdAberloura'bunadh ChivasBrothersAmrutFusion AmrutDistilleriesLtdanCnoc16 BurtGreenerCommunicationsArdbeg10 TheGlenmorangieCompanyArdbegUigeadail TheGlenmorangieCompanyAsyla CompassBoxWhiskyAuchentoshanClassic MorrisonBowmoreDistillersBalblair’89 BurtGreenerCommunicationsBallantines17 ChivasBrothersBasilHayden's BeamGlobalSpirits&WineBenRiach TheBenRiachDistilleryBenromachOrganic BenromachSpeysideSingleMalt
ScotchWhiskyBernheimOriginalWheat HeavenHillDistilleries,Inc.BlackBottle AlanStewartPhotographyBlackGrouse TheBlackGrouse
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Bladnoch8 BladnochDistilleryBlueHanger BerryBros.&RuddSpiritsBNJBailieNicolJarvie TheGlenmorangieCompanyBowmoreTempest MorrisonBowmoreDistillersBruichladdich12 BruichladdichDistilleryBuffaloTrace BuffaloTraceDistilleryBunnahabhain18 C&HCreativeBushmills16 DiageoplcCameronBrig TheWhiskyExchangeCaolIla12 DiageoplcChivasRegal25 ChivasBrothersClynelish14 DiageoplcCrownRoyal DiageoplcCuttySark BerryBros.&RuddSpiritsCuttySark25 BerryBros.&RuddSpiritsDalmore12 White&MacKayDalwhinnie15 DiageoplcDeanston12 SalkeldPhotographyDewar’s12 BacardiGlobalBrandLtdDewar’sSignature BacardiGlobalBrandLtdEagleRare BuffaloTraceDistilleryElijahCraig12 HeavenHillDistilleries,Inc.GlenBreton GlenoraDistilleriesGlenfarclas105 J&GGrantGlenfarclas21 J&GGrantGlenfiddich18 WilliamGrant&SonsDistillersGlenfiddich30 WilliamGrant&SonsDistillersGlenglassaugh26 AnneSmithGlenglassaughSpiritDrink AnneSmithGlengoyne21 IanMacLeodDistillersGlenlivet21 ChivasBrothersGlenmorangie-QuintaRuban TheGlenmorangieCompany
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Gordon&MacPhail-GlenGrant25 Gordon&MacPhailGreenSpot Mitchell&SonHakushu18 SuntoryLiquorLtdPage216 TheBenRiachDistilleryPage218 HighlandParkHedonism CompassBoxWhiskyHibiki17 SuntoryLiquorLtdHibiki30 SuntoryLiquorLtdHighlandPark18 HighlandParkHighlandPark21 HighlandParkHighlandPark30 HighlandParkHighlandPark40 HighlandParkIsleofJuraSuperstition White&MacKayJameson-LimitedReserve18 IrsihDistillersPernodRicardJohnnieWalkerBlack DiageoplcJohnnieWalkerBlueKGV DiageoplcKilchoman KichomanDistilleryKnobCreek BeamGlobalSpirits&WineLagavulin16 DiageoplcLaphroaigQuarterCask LimePRLongrowCV SpringbankDistilleriesLtdMackmyra JohanOlssonMaker'sMark TheWhiskyExchangeMellowCorn HeavenHillDistilleries,Inc.MonkeyShoulder WilliamGrant&SonsDistillersMortlach16 DiageoplcNikkaAllMalt AsahiBreweries,LtdOban14 DiageoplcOldPulteney17 BurtGreenerCommunications
Redbreast12 IrsihDistillersPernodRicard
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Scapa ChivasBrothersSmokeheadExtraBlack IanMacLeodDistillersSpeyburnSolera25 BurtGreenerCommunicationsSpringbank10 SpringbankDistilleriesLtdTalisker10 DiageoplcTalisker18 DiageoplcTheBalvenie21 WilliamGrant&SonsDistillersTheBalvenie30 WilliamGrant&SonsDistillersTheGlenrothes-SelectReserve TheGlenrothesTheMacallan10 TheMacallanDistilleryLtdTheMacallan18 TheMacallanDistilleryLtdTheMacallan30 TheMacallanDistilleryLtdTheSociety'sSpecial-HighlandBlend BrendanMacNeillTheSpiceTree CompassBoxWhiskyThomasHHandy-SazeracStraightRye BuffaloTraceDistilleryTobermory15 GoodCreativeTyrconnell CooleyDistilleryVanWinkleFamily-ReserveRye BuffaloTraceDistilleryWildTurkey TheWhiskyExchangeWoodfordReserve WoodfordReserveDistilleryYamazaki12 SuntoryLiquorLtdYamazaki18 SuntoryLiquorLtdYoichi10 AsahiBreweries,Ltd
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*‘Fromheadtoheel’,sinceyouhadtoask.WereyouasleepinDoubleLatin?
*No,nottheAmericansinger.Tryandkeepup–thisisawhiskybook!
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TableofContentsIntroduction101whiskiesHowtotastewhiskyandusethisbookAcknowledgementsFurtherresourcesWheretobuyPicturecredits