Walking Tours The Complete Set

Table of Contents Culture and History

Around the Marais Pigalle and Montmartre Canal Saint Martin Stroll from Saint Germain to Notre Dame Latin Quarter Stroll Louvre to Opera Walk Stroll from Saint Germain to the Louvre Walk from the Palais Royal to Pompidou

Shopping Through Fashionable Paris in the Steps of Audrey Hepburn Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille Shopping with Jackie Kennedy Stroll Along rue du Cherche Midi Walk and Shop in Saint Germain Shop Rue St. Domonique and Grenelle

Foodie Gourmet Tour Quick Gourmet Pastry and Chocolate Wine Walk of the 1st and 2nd

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Around the Marais Walking Tour

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Around the Marais Walking Tour cont’d

1. Place des Vosges – starting point

2. 6 Place des Vosges – Victor Hugo’s house and museum

3. 62 rue St. Antoine – Hotel de Sully

4. 19 Place des Vosges – Ma Bourgogne

5. 9 rue des Francs Bourgeois ï Camper

7. 3 rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Theiere

8. 7 rue des Rosiers – Custo*

9. 9 rue des Rosiers – La Marthe*

10. 34 rue des Rosiers – L’As du Fallafel

11. 2 rue des Hospitalieres – St. Gervais – Chez Marianne

12. 27 rue des Rosiers – Sacha Finkelsztajn

*These stores have closed

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Around the Marais Walking Tour cont’d

14. 56 rue Vieille du Temple – Paul and Joe

14a. 109 rue Vielle du Temple – Breizh Café

15. 75 rue Vieille du Temple – Manoush

16. 64 rue Vieille du Temple – Robert and Louise

17. 72 rue Vieille du Temple – Des Gars

18. 78 rue Vieille du Temple – La Perle

19. 22 rue de la Perle – Consuelo Zoelly

20. 5 rue Thorigny – Musee Picasso**

(The Picasso Museum is temporarily closed for renovations until end of 2013.)

13. 31-33 rue des Blancs Manteaux – Les Bains du Marais

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Around the Marais Walking Tour cont’d

21. 29-31 rue de Poitou – Hotel du Petit Moulin

22. 39 rue de Bretagne – Marché Enfants Rouges

23. 13 Blvd. du Temple – Murano Hotel

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Around the Marais Walking Tour cont’d

Begin at the 1. Place des Vosges in the 4th. This square is recognized by most as the oldest and most beautiful square in Paris. (see 15 must do’s) The square was built by King Henri IV in 1605 and inaugurated in 1612 for the wedding of Louis XIII and Anne of Austria. You can spend some real time here either for a drink, breakfast, lunch, or dinner, or by visiting the shops and galler-ies underneath the arches.

In addition there are two museums on the square, 2. Victor Hugo’s house (open daily 10-5:40,except mondays) at 6 Place des Vosges (01 42 72 10 16) and 3. Hôtel de Sully at 62 rue St. An-toine (01 44 61 20 00), which has beautiful gar-dens and is a photography museum. Hotel de Sully was built in 1625 by Architect Jean Androuet Du Cerceau. And at end: Open everyday. You can also access the museum from 7 Place des Vosges.

4. Ma Bourgogne at 19 Place des Vosges is agreat place for a quick coffee before you are off and is open every day from 8am-1am. This is a quintessential Parisian bistro, not fancy food but hearty and uncomplicated fare. Heaters are often turned on so you can sit outside and enjoy the view of the Place even in winter. A page on everything Place des Vosges has to offer can be found here.

As you face Pavillon de la Reine, the only hotel on the square, exit the square to the left and continue on rue des Francs-Bourgeois to check out the shops. There are many here we like including 5. Autour du Monde at #8 and #12 rue desFrancs-Bourgeois (you can find those famous French Bensimon sneakers at the ADM store at

#12) and 6. Camper, 9 rue des Francs-Bourgeois, for those great walking shoes from Spain. Turn left on rue Pavée (you can continue down Francs-Bourgeois but come back for this turn) and then right on rue des Rosiers. This is a very famous street in Paris, it is ancient and the former epicenter of what was primarily a Jewish neighborhood dating back to the 13th century. While the area now is terribly trendy, you can still find synagogues nearby.

There is a great place for tea at 3 rue des Rosiers named 7. Le Loir dans la Théière, which is next to Annick Goutal’s perfume shop. This tea salon also serves scrumptious desserts and lovely lunches and the atmosphere is relaxed and artsy. Also we like 8*. Custo at number 7 from Barce-lona, for original and very colorful men’s and women’s shirts.

The very chic 9*. Lamarthe for handbags is also here at number 9. 10. L’As du Fallafel, down the street at 34 rue des Rosiers is home to the most famous falafel in Paris — this is a fun & cheap take-out lunch. As David Lebovitz says in his Paris food blog “You can't come to Paris and not have a falafel at L'As. It just isn't done.”

Continue on down rue des Rosiers, and you’ll come to 11. Chez Marianne at 2 rue des Hos-pitalières-St-Gervais on the corner. Chez Marianne also has falafel plus all the meze you can eat if you prefer to sit down, and the setting is more charming than L’As. Note: Falafel places are often closed on Saturdays and quite busy on Sun-days. Save room for the Russian & Jewish pas-tries across the street at 12. Sacha Finkelsztajn at 27 rue des Rosiers. At the end of rue des Rosiers turn right and continue on rue Vieille-du-Temple.

Rue des Blancs-Manteaux has some cute shops as well as the 13. Bains du Marais at 31-33 rue des Blancs-Manteaux profiled in the Out of the Ordinary section. This is the very chic Turk-

This walk is approx. 1.5 miles and will take you between 1-4 hours depending how much shopping you do and how long you linger. The walk begins at the most beauti-ful square in Paris and lets you wander around the ancient, adorable streets of the Marais.

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Around the Marais Walking Tour cont’d

ish hammam and spa and is a great place to wind down after a day of walking through Paris. Ham-mams, which are similar to a steam room, are all the rage in Paris. (01 44 61 02 02) Call in advance to reserve a massage and steam.

Continue along rue Vieille-du-Temple and you’ll cross rue des Francs-Bourgeois again if you want to check out some of the shops you missed earlier.

Back on rue Vieille-du-Temple continuing north you’ll pass 14. Paul & Joe at 56 rue Vieille-du-Temple, a shop we love for both men and women. Note: if you are still hungry tuck into 109 rue Vielle du Tem-ple for a scrumptious crepe at 14a. Breizh Café. This is one of the best creperies in Paris.

15. Manoush at 75 rue Vieille-du-Temple acrossthe street is worthy of a look. 16. Robert and Louise at 64 rue Vieille-du-Temple (01 42 78 55 89) is an excellent restaurant on this street, which is pro-filed in our Dining section. Check it out and see if you’d like to come back for dinner. We adore their steak cooked over the open fire.

17. Des Gars dans la Cuisine is another res-taurant a bit further down at 72 rue Vieille-du-Temple (01 42 74 88 27) that attracts a crowd for its trendy setting and good eats. Continuing further along you’ll come to the corner of rue de la Perle and rue Vieille-du-Temple where you’ll find the most popular bar in the Marais (not counting the gay bars) called 18. La Perle at 78 rue Vieille- du-Temple profiled in our Dining section under Bars. Forget getting a table here at night. Everyone just stands and drinks on the street hoping to see the models that often frequent the place.

19. Consuelo Zoelly at 22 rue de la Perle (01 4272 09 16) is an American/Swiss designer residing in Paris. This is her only shop in Paris. We appreciate her inventive yet very wearable styles.

From here you are very close to the 20. Picasso

Museum if you’d like to get some culture in. Take a right on rue de la Perle and then left on rue de Thorigny for the Musée Picasso** (The Picasso Museum is temporarily closed for renovations until 2012.) It’s a small yet very well done museum cov-ering a wide range of his work plus they have some wonderful photographs of the artist. The mansion that houses the museum is gorgeous, as is the gar-den out back. From here exit out to rue de Thorigny and back to rue Vieille-du-Temple turning left then left again on rue des Coutures-Saint-Gervais and then right on rue Vieille-du-Temple. Continue to rue de Poitou, where you’ll turn left. The street has many small special shops as well as 21. Christian Lacroix’s Hôtel du Petit Moulin at 29-31 rue de Poitou, profiled in our Where To Stay sec-tion. Take a peek into the lobby and grab a bro-chure. Turn right at the end of the street onto rue Charlot. Continue on Charlot just about to rue de Bretagne where you’ll see an entrance to the 22. Marché des Enfants Rouges on your left.

This is the oldest covered market in Paris. This isn’t a proper food market although there are a few stalls, but it is a great place to buy a cheap and excellent lunch if you haven’t already stopped. Enjoy Moroccan, or excellent Japa-nese, French, Italian or Caribbean food — tables abound, but order first from the stalls. Exit on rue de Bretagne and enjoy strolling through all the small food vendors on this market street. Turn right continuing on rue de Bretagne until you reach rue de Saintonge where you’ll turn left. Turn left again on rue de Turenne and right on Charlot until you reach Blvd. du Temple.

If you turn left here you’ll hit the large metro sta-tion of République and if you turn right you can

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Around the Marais Walking Tour cont’d

Points of Interest Addresses

1. Place des Vosges – starting point

2. 6 Place des Vosges – Victor Hugo’s house and museum

3. 62 rue St. Antoine – Hotel de Sully

4. 19 Place des Vosges – Ma Bourgogne

5. 8 rue des Francs Bourgeois – Autour du Monde

6. 9 rue des Francs Bourgeois – Camper

7. 3 rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Theiere

8. 7 rue des Rosiers – Custo

9. 9 rue des Rosiers – La Marthe

10. 34 rue des Rosiers – L’As du Fallafel

11. 2 rue des Hospitalieres – St. Gervais – Chez Marianne

12. 27 rue des Rosiers – Sacha Finkelsztajn

13. 31-33 rue des Blancs Manteaux – Les Bains

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du Marais

14. 56 rue Vieille du Temple – Paul and Joe

14a.109 rue Vielle du Temple – Breizh Café

15. 75 rue Vieille du Temple – Manoush

16. 64 rue Vieille du Temple – Robert and Louise

17. 72 rue Vieille du Temple – Des Gars

18. 78 rue Vieille du Temple – La Perle

19. 22 rue de la Perle – Consuelo Zoelly

20. 5 rue Thorigny – Musee Picasso

21. 29-31 rue de Poitou– Hotel du Petit Moulin

22. 39 rue de Bretagne – Marché des Enfants Rouges

23. 13 Blvd. du Temple – Murano Hotel

take a look at the 23. Murano Hotel at 13 Blvd. du Temple (one of the trendiest places in Paris). Stop in for a drink if you are dressed for it. Across the street is the historic Cirque d’Hiver. Note the interesting architectural detail on the side of this circular building. Metro home but be sure to come back to the Marais for din-ner one evening or at least drinks — it’s always a hopping fun place to be at night. You won’t be far from the Filles du Calvaire metro stop which is slightly further down south on the Boulevard du Temple at the corner of rue Filles du Calvaire.

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Pigalle and Montmartre

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Pigalle and Montmartre

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Pigalle and Montmartre

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Pigalle and Montmartre cont’d

1. Metro Blanche in the 18th on Blvd. Clichy – starting point

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5. 35 rue des Abbesses – Le Sancerre

5a. 38 rue des Abbesses – Le Greniere à Pain

6. 19 – 21 rue des Abbesses – Saint-Jean de Montmartre

2. 15 rue Lepic – Café des Deux Moulins

3. 28 rue Lepic – Les Petits Mitrons

4. 26 rue Lepic – Epicerie du Terroir

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Pigalle and Montmartre cont’d

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7. 44 rue Lepic – Espace W

8. 42 rue Lepic – A La Pomponette

9. 41 rue Lepic – La Rughetta

10. 83 rue Lepic – Le Moulin de la Galette

12. 11 rue Poulbot – Espace Dali

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Pigalle and Montmartre cont’d

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13. 2, rue l’Abreuvoir – Maison Rose

14. 22 rue des Saules – Au Lapin Agile

15. 12 rue Cortot – Montmartre Museum (Musee Montmartre)

16. Parvis du Sacre Coeur – Sacre Coeur

17. 2 rue Ronsard - Halle St. Pierre

18. 51 rue des Martyrs – L’Epicerie Fuxia

19. 25 rue des Martyrs – Fuxia

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Pigalle and Montmartre cont’d

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20. 16 rue Chaptal – Musee de la Vie Romantique

21. 14 rue de la Rochefoucauld – Musee Gustave-Moreau

22. 35 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre – A La Mere de la Famille

23. 31 rue du Faubourg Montmartre – Passage Verdeau

24. 14 Passage Verdeau – Photo Verdeau

25. 6 Passage Verdeau – Librarie Roland Buret

26. Passage Jouffroy – Hotel Chopin

27. Passage Panoramas

28. 30 Passage Panoramas – Le Valentin

29. 8 Passage Panoramas – Racines

30. 10 blvd Montmartre – Musee Grevin

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Pigalle and Montmartre cont’d

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31. 40 Blvd. Haussmann – Galeries Lafayette

32. 64 Blvd. Haussmann - Printemps

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Pigalle and Montmartre cont’d

Begin at 1. Métro Blanche in the 18th and travel up the hill on rue Lepic heading north keep-ing the Moulin Rouge on your left. We do not recommend going to the Moulin Rouge as it is dreadfully tacky but its history is interesting.

Pass by the 2. Café des Deux Moulins at 15 rue Lepic (01 42 54 90 50), from the movie Amélie, and have a coffee if you like. Continue on Lepic and check out the 3. Épicerie du Terroir, 28 rue Le-pic, which is good for specialty food gifts at the cor-ner of rue Véron. The artisanal tartes at 4. Les Petits Mitrons, 26 rue Lepic, are worth mention-ing. Follow Lepic up to the left as you come to rue des Abbesses; if you turn right on Rue des Abbesses you’ll find some wonderful bars such as 5. Le San-cerre at 35 rue des Abbesses (01 42 58 08 20) and interesting food shops on this market street. At 38 rue des Abesses you’ll find 5a. Le Grenier à Pain, 2010 winner of the Grand Prix for best ba-guette in Paris. Plus there is a notable Arts and Crafts style church at 19 and 21 rue des Abbesses called 6. Saint-Jean de Montmartre. Le San-cerre stays open very late so you can join the fun later on. But if you don’t have extra time for the diversion, continue up Lepic to the left, passing 44 Lepic, which is a cutting edge art gallery called 7. Espace W.

8. À la Pomponette at 42 (01 46 06 08 36) &9. La Rughetta at 41 (01 42 23 41 70) are fairlygood restaurants worth noting on Lepic if you want to come back for dinner. As you turn and begin marching up the big hill, you’ll see the top of Sacré-Cœur (the famous church on the mount).

At the corner of Lepic and rue Tholozé look to your right for a wonderful view of Paris. The gold dome

of Invalides and Napoleon’s tomb stands out. As you continue up rue Lepic, to the left you’ll see one of the two remaining windmills of Mont-martre set on top of 10. Le Moulin de la Galette 83 rue Lepic (see Dining section) at the corner of rue Girardon (01 46 06 84 78) is a lovely place for lunch or dinner and open every day. The owners also have a movie theatre showing art films around the corner. Across the street from Le Moulin is 11. La Divette du Moulin at 98 rue Lepic which is another solid restaurant you might want to book for dinner (01 46 06 34 84). Their Côte de Boeuf is popular.

Turn right on rue Norvins then left on rue des Saules to avoid the masses of tourists in the Place du Tertre, a place we avoid like the plague, but if you want to take a detour then venture in 12. Espace Dali at 11 rue Poulbot it is worth a look (take a right just before you enter the square and follow the signs). This is not a spectacular museum, but a fun stop if you are a Dali fan. Otherwise continue down rue des Saules until you reach rue Saint-Vincent where you’ll see the last of the remaining grape vines in Montmartre. These are the vines they harvest and celebrate during the Fête des Vendanges in October. Turn right here, noting the beautifully picturesque 13. La Maison Rose restaurant on your left at 2 rue Abreuvoir (01 42 57 66 75), which we hear is quite nice. Also across the street from the small vineyard is 14. Au Lapin Agile 22 rue des Saules (0146 06 85 87) a venue famous for its patrons (Picasso and Modigliani) and old-fashioned cabaret music (think Edith Piaf).

Continue along Saint Vincent stopping if you like at the 15. Montmartre Museum at 12 rue Cortot, with another entrance on Saint-Vincent. The museum which houses the history of Montmartre is not going to blow you away, but the garden is lovely and it’s a nice respite from the tourists. Stay on St. Vincent until it

If it is a hot day, this walk is best done in the morning and will last 4+ hours or more depending on your pace. Go slow and make a day of it.

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Pigalle and Montmartre cont’d

ends and take a right at rue de la Bonne and you’ll see the 16. Sacré-Cœur. Take another right at rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre and left on Cardinal Guibert to enter the church. Depending on the sea-son, cool off or warm up in this impressive cathe-dral, built from 1875 - 1914 in the Romano-Byzantine style.

Exit the church and behold the most amazing view of the entire city of Paris. Follow the hordes of peo-ple down the stairs on either the right or left side ending up at rue St. Pierre where you’ll take a left. Note: Be careful here of men trying to sell you bracelets. Walk away from them if they do as their method of putting a bracelet on you and then de-manding payment is a bit too aggressive for our liking. Take another left at rue Ronsard if you would like to visit 17. Halle St. Pierre at 2 rue Ron-sard (01 42 58 72 89), which is dedicated to emerg-ing artists. The little café here is a nice place to hide from the crowds near the church and have a quick tea or lemonade. Exit left out of the Halle and turn down rue Seveste and take a right on rue d’Orsel. This street has some cute shops further down. Take note of the lovely Theatre at Place Dullin. Follow d’Orsel until rue des Martyrs where you’ll turn left. Continue on Martyrs, which is one of our favorite streets, as you enter the 9th passing across Boulevard Clichy.

On Martyrs you can lunch at 18. l’Epicerie Fuxia at 51, which is a charming little Italian place. Here you can order a plate of mixed antipasti and charcuterie or sardines and octopus, knocking it down with a glass of Italian wine. For fancier dining, the same owners have another Italian restaurant further down the street at 25 rue des Martyrs called simply 19. Fuxia.

Perhaps you’d like to wait to lunch in the garden (if it’s nice out) at 20. Musée de la Vie Roman-tique, which isn’t too far away. To get there, con-tinue along Martyrs until it ends at l’Église Notre-Dame-de-Lorette. Turn slightly right here and take

rue Notre-Dame-de-Lorette to the Musée de la Vie Romantique at 16 rue Chaptal (01 55 31 95 67). Rue Chaptal will be off to your left just after you come to rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle where the road forks. The museum was the home of Ary Scheffer and a frequent stop for the writer George Sand. It gives you an idea of what life was like during the 1830’s but it’s not a must-see unless you are visiting in good weather when the garden café is open. The outdoor café is an absolute delight.

Exit the museum to the right and turn left on rue Blanche. Follow this street down until you can turn onto Rue de la Tour des Dames which you will follow until it dead-ends. 21. Musée Gus-tave-Moreau is on Rue de La Rochefoucauld at number 14 (01 48 74 38 50), which you should see to your left. This museum is worth visiting in winter or summer as it is both an atelier full of the French symbolist painter’s work as well as his home. The furnishings and his artifacts are in place and well preserved and really give you a feel of Paris in the late 1800’s. A visit will have you in and out in under an hour.

Exit the museum to the left, and take another left on Rue St. Lazare until you reach the church again (Notre-Dame de Lorette) which is worthy of a quick visit although the church’s ex-terior could use some renovation. Cross the Place here to find rue du Faubourg-Montmartre. Down this street is 22. À la Mère de la Fa-mille at 35 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, which is a famous old candy and chocolate shop for gifts ‘extraordinaire’.

Follow the rue until you reach 23. Passage Verdeau at 31 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre (04 47 70 83 69), which is one of the old pas-sages couverts (covered passageways). This one was built in 1847. Shop for antique chil-dren’s books at 25. Librarie Roland Buret 6 Passage Verdeau. Continue through Verdeau

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Pigalle and Montmartre cont’d

6. 19 – 21 rue des Abbesses – Saint-Jean de Montmartre

7. 44 rue Lepic – Espace W

8. 42 rue Lepic – A La Pompnette

9. 41 rue Lepic – La Rughetta

10. 83 rue Lepic – Le Moulin de la Galette

11. 98 rue Lepic – La Divette du Moulin

12. 11 rue Poulbot – Espace Dali

13. 2, rue l’Abreuvoir – Maison Rose

14. 22 rue des Saules – Au Lapin Agile

15. 12 rue Cortot – Montmartre Museum (Musee Montmartre)

16. Parvis du Sacre Coeur – Sacre Coeur

17. 2 rue Ronsard - Halle St. Pierre

18. 51 rue des Martyrs – L’Epicerie Fuxia

19. 25 rue des Martyrs – Fuxia

20. 16 rue Chaptal – Musee de la Vie Romantique

21. 14 rue de la Rochefoucauld – Musee Gustave- Moreau

22. 35 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre – A La Merede la Famille

23. 31 rue du Faubourg Montmartre – Passage Verdeau

24. 14 Passage Verdeau – Photo Verdeau

25. 6 Passage Verdeau - Librarie Roland Buret

26. Passage Jouffroy - Hotel Chopin

27. Passage Panoramas

28. 30 Passage Panoramas – Le Valentin

29. 8 Passage Panoramas – Racines

30. 10 blvd Montmartre – Musee Grevin

31. 40 Blvd. Haussmann – Galeries Lafayette

32. 64 Blvd. Haussmann - Printemps

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until you enter Passage Jouffroy which hosts mainly bookstores but where you can find the well known 24. Photo Verdeau at #47 (it recently moved to Jouffroy from Verdeau) (01 47 70 51 91) . Also note the charming little 26. Hôtel Cho-pin if you are looking for a quaint if simple room. Follow this Passage until it ends and cross the Blvd Montmartre into the final Passage and the oldest of them all, named 27. Panoramas built in 1799-1800. This passage is home to restau-rants and cafés. Two are particularly noteworthy — 28. Le Valentin for tea at number 30 or 29. Racines at number 8, which offers a wide selec-tion of organic wines and Italian charcuterie plus a small selection of market choices each day. This place is a find. Reserve for dinner if you like (01 40 13 06 41).

Exit the Panoramas onto the Blvd Montmartre and end your day on a very kitsch note if you are the type, and go to the 30. Musée Grevin (the wax museum) at 10 Boulevard Montmartre. This is a place we would avoid like the plague, but it can be fun if you’ve got kids along. The metro station Grands Boulevards is right nearby. If you still have energy you can turn right onto Blvd Montmartre which turns into Blvd Haussmann and hit 31. Galeries Lafayette, 40 Boulevard Haussmann and 32. Printemps at 64 Blvd. Haussmann for a bit of department store shopping.

Points of Interest Addresses

1. Begin at Metro Blanche in the 18th on Blvd. Clichy

2. 15 rue Lepic – Café des Deux Moulins

3. 28 rue Lepic - Epicerie du Terroir

4. 26 rue Lepic – Les Petits Mitrons

5. 35 rue des Abbesses – Le Sancerre

5a. 38 rue des Abbesses – Le Greniere à Pain

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Canal Saint-Mart in Walking Tour

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Canal Saint-Mart in Walking Tour

Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.

Cont.

1. Rue du Faubourg du Templeand the quai de Jemmapes

2. La Marine3. Chez Prune4. Jours de Fête

5. L’Hôpital Saint-Louis6. Le Cambodge7. Philou8. Marty Tattoo

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Canal Saint-Mart in Walking Tour

Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.

Cont.

9. Square Sainte-Marthe10. La Sardine11. Le Galopin

23. Bensimon24. Artazart25. Boulanger et Pât isserie26. Fuxia27. Le Pet ite Focan28. La Piñata29. La Galerie Végétal30. Philippe le Libraire31. Sol Semilla

12. Pink Flamingo13. La Chambre aux Oiseaux14. Pop Market15. Grafiti by Chanoir16. La Cant ine de Quentin

17. V intage Fripes et Objets18. L’Hôtel du Nord19. Le Cit izen20. Bleuet Coquelicot21. Carmen Ragosta22. Ethicando

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Canal Saint-Mart in Walking Tour

Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.

Cont.

32. Atelier-Galerie33. Jardin V illemin34. Antoine et Lili35. Sandro

38. Agnès B.39. Les Pet ites40. WeSC41. Claudie Pierlot42. Maje43. APC44. Centre Commercial45. Du Pain et des Idées46. Coin Canal

36. Marcel37. Canaletto Caffè

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Canal Saint-Mart in Walking Tour

Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.

Cont.

47. Alhambra48. Agnès B. Homme49. Les Chemins Blancs50. Renhsen51. Bel Air52. Ideco53. Liza Korn54. Cotélac55. Bazar Ethic56. The Kooples57. Ekyog58. IKKS

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Canal Saint-Mart in Walking Tour

Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.

Cont.

Begin at the intersection of 1. rue du Faubourg du Temple and the quai de Jemmapes. You will

see a beautiful statue of a grisette, a French work-

ing-class woman from the late 17th century, on the

left, and facing the canal, you will see a bust of

Frédérick Lemaître, a famous 19th-century Parisian

theatre actor. The canal, which is 4.5 kilometers

(about 3 miles) long and stretches through the 10th

Arrondissement, was commissioned in 1802 by

Napoleon and completed in 1825.

Go up the right, or east, side of the quai de Jem-

mapes. Walking right along the canal, you’ll see

its different levels. You can take the canal cruise

(http://www.canauxrama.com), but we ind it a bit touristy.

At any point, you can walk over the high bridges,

from where you can enjoy beautiful views and take

a few photos. Along the canal, there are several

restaurants that we like. At the corner of rue Alib-

ert on the left side of the canal is 2. la Marine (55, quai de Valmy), which is a good place for lunch or

dinner by the second bridge. At the next bridge to

the north, you’ll ind 3. Chez Prune (36, rueBeaurepaire), which is a very trendy, fun place to

go for a drink or dinner. We like the steak frites and

the bohemian atmosphere there. Also, 4. Jours de Fête, on the right side of the canal (72, quai de

Jemmapes), is a cute tapas place.

Continue walking along the canal on the right side

until you reach avenue Richerand. Take a right and

go into the courtyard of 5. l’Hôpital Saint-Louis,

founded in the early 17th century during the reign of

Henri IV, and which is nearly an exact replica of the

Place des Vosges. Before you reach the hospital,

you’ll pass two restaurants on avenue Richerand

that are both recommended by le Fooding. The

irst is 6. le Cambodge (10, avenue Richerand),a Cambodian restaurant; be sure to go early or be

prepared to wait in line. The second is the well-

known wine bar 7. Philou (12, avenue Richerand). It’s a great place to return to at night or even for

lunch if you can get a reservation.

A couple doors down from Philou on the right side,

you will see 8. Marty Tattoo (16, avenue Richer-and). The studio offers gorgeous, artistic tattoos,

and if you are not ready to get a permanent one,

you can get a temporary.

At the end of avenue Richerand, turn right and

you’ll ind on your left the entrance to 5. l’HôpitalSaint Louis, which has a brick facade. Use the

pedestrian entrance (there are two separate doors

to go through before you reach the inside of the

courtyard, and the second is called Porte 11). The

door is shut on Saturday, Sunday and holidays.

Once inside, you’ll quickly notice the resemblance

to the Place des Vosges, but it is ininitely quieter and more peaceful here.

Walk to the other side and exit on rue Juliette Dodu,

then take a right and walk until the road ends.

Take another right and continue until you reach rue

Saint-Maur, where you’ll turn left. When you reach

rue Sainte-Marthe, turn left again. At the end of

this street, you’ll ind the darling 9. Square Sainte-Marthe, where there are two good restaurants:

10. la Sardine (32, rue Sainte-Marthe) and 11. leGalopin (34, rue Sainte-Marthe). The irst is better

Note: The canal Saint-Martin area is one of the most

exciting and up-and-coming areas in town. Stroll this

area around the canal at your leisure, as it is chockful of

wonderful restaurants, artistic shops and great grafiti.The tour should take you 3-4 hours, depending on how

long you linger. Toward the end, you’ll ind two streets illed with designer discount shops. Come back to the area and take a bike ride along the canal, or consider

doing the entire tour via bike.

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Canal Saint-Mart in Walking Tour

Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.

Cont.

for drinks and tapas, while the latter is wonderful

for more-upscale French food at a decent price.

Either is worth a return trip for dinner. Reserve

ahead for le Galopin.

Retrace your steps, either going back through

the hospital or around it to end up on rue Bichat.

Turn right if you are exiting the hospital. Down this

street you’ll ind the 12. Pink Flamingo (67, rueBichat), a fun place for pizza on the corner of rue

Bichat and rue de la Grange aux Belles.

Continue along rue Bichat, where you’ll ind 13.la Chambre aux Oiseaux** (48, rue Bichat), which is perfect for tea or brunch. Next door, 14. Pop Market (50, rue Bichat) is illed with small, fun gifts. As you walk toward the canal, on the

left you’ll discover animal grafiti by the artist 15.Chanoir; on the right you’ll see 16. la Cantine de Quentin (52, rue Bichat), which is a great little

wine bar that offers many items to buy or take out,

including foie gras. Follow rue Bichat until it ends

at the canal.

After passing the cat graitti on your left, turn left and notice the interesting doors and their han-

dles. Head back south on rue Jemmapes to ind a charming little shop that has a green facade and

the word “Brocante” on it. The store, 17. Vintage Fripes et Objets (104, quai de Jemmapes), carries vintage clothing and a few small antiques.

Farther down is 18. l’Hôtel du Nord (102, quai de Jemmapes), a chic and trendy spot for lunch

or dinner, with candlelit tables, and which is larger

than it appears from the outside. The food is not

amazing, but you can go for the basics and enjoy

the people-watching.

At the corner of the quai de Jemmapes and rue de

la Grange aux Belles is 19. le Citizen** (96, quai de Jemmapes), a designer boutique hotel we

highly recommend. It is an excellent, very afford-

able place to stay. If you are a fan of lorists, take a left onto rue de la Grange aux Belles and you’ll

discover a particularly lovely one on the right side,

20. Bleuet Coquelicot (10, rue de la Grange auxBelles). You’ll ind delightful items here. Walking back toward the canal, you’ll notice 21. Carmen Ragosta (8, rue de la Grange aux Belles), A bou-

tique and restaurant, cleverly satiating two desires

at once! Next door is 22. Ethicando (6, rue de la Grange aux Belles), a casual Italian concept store/

café/épicerie.

Returning to the quai de Jemmapes, cross over

the canal to reach rue de Lancry. At the corner of

the quai de Valmy, you’ll spot 23. Bensimon and

24. Artazart (both at 83, quai de Valmy). Step

inside Artazart, an art and design bookshop with a

selection of gifts. Bensimon is of course famous for

its French tennis shoes, and at this particular shop

there are also items for children.

Walk down rue de Lancry and check out the 25. Boulanger et Pâtisserie (58, rue de Lancry) on

the corner, which looks quite charming and sits

across from 26. Fuxia (15, rue Jean Poulmarch), an Italian chain that’s great for quick salads and

pasta. From Fuxia, if you turn around and take rue

Jean Poulmarch toward the canal, you’ll ind more grafiti.

If you’re interested in gifts for children, walk down

rue des Vinaigriers to 27. le Petite Focan (25, rue des Vinaigriers). In the same building is 28. la Piñata, which offers Mexican-inspired items. Next

door is 29. la Galerie Végétal (27, rue des Vinai-griers), a stunning lorist that carries small gifts.

Farther down the street is 30. Philippe le Libraire (32, rue des Vinaigriers), a shop that sells comic

books. A good place to stop for coffee or a healthy

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Canal Saint-Mart in Walking Tour

Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.

Cont.

glass of juice is 31. Sol Semilla (23, rue de Vin-aigriers); the purple power mix is recommended.

When you reach rue Lucien Sampaix, turn right,

and then left onto rue des Récollets. Look for the

32. Atelier-Galerie (13, rue des Récollets), the studio

of ceramic artist Emmanuelle Wittmann, where her

pottery is sold and courses are offered.

Continuing along, look for a grand entrance marked

“hôpital militaire Villemin” and enter the 33. Jardin Vil-lemin. The park was created in 1977 on the grounds

of a former military hospital. When you enter the park,

walk to the right along the dirt path and you’ll notice

a beautiful green sculpture. There will also be a sign

for public restrooms. Stay to the right, heading back

toward the canal. On the right side you’ll ind a lovely, if a bit unattended, herb garden.

Exit here, back onto the quai de Valmy. Turn right

and you’ll spot three 34. Antoine et Lili (95, quai de Valmy) stores with very colorful facades. After stop-

ping in, walk south along the canal past them. Next

you’ll see 35. Sandro (93, quai de Valmy). Much less

colorful and more practical than Antoine et Lili, Sandro

carries men’s and women’s clothes. Continue past the

grafiti and past rue de Lancry until you reach rue de Marseille. Keep in mind for later two restaurants you’ll

have passed on the other side of the canal: both 36. Marcel (90, quai de Jemmapes) and 37. Canaletto Caffè (88, quai de Jemmapes) are good restaurants

with excellent reviews. Turn right on rue de Marseille.

On the right side you’ll quickly see 38. Agnès B. (13, rue de Marseille) and then 39. les Petites (11, rue de Marseille), a stock store that offers discounted items.

Next door is 40. WeSC, We Are the Superlative Conspiracy (9, rue de Marseille), which has primarily

men’s clothes and is worth a look. The 41. Claudie Pierlot (6, rue de Marseille) stock store offers sophis-

ticated clothing for the fashionable set. Another great

stock-store ind is 42. Maje (4, rue de Marseille),which carries items designed by the much-loved

French brand. Farther down is 43. APC (5, rue de Marseille), which, unfortunately, is not a stock store.

A very unique and well-designed store, 44. Centre Commercial (2, rue de Marseille) has clothing for

men and women and some vintage furniture. Next

door on the corner, on rue Yves Toudic, is the bou-

langerie 45. du Pain et des Idées (34, rue Yves Toudic), which was voted the best boulangerie in

Paris in 2008.

Across the street is 46. Coin Canal (1, rue de Marseille), a good stop for 20th-century interior

designs. When you reach rue Yves Toudic, turn left

and walk down the street until you see the sign for

47. Alhambra (21, rue Yves Toudic), a theatre

where you can see plays as well as music and

comedy performances. Check to see if there is an

event you’d like to come back for.

At the corner of rue Beaurepaire, you’ll see 48. Agnès B. Homme (1, rue Dieu). Take a left on

rue Beaurepaire and you’ll ind more shopping. For made-in-France apparel, stop at 49. les Chemins Blancs (20, rue Beaurepaire). Farther down is

50. Renhsen (22, rue Beaurepaire), which carries

its own popular line of jeans as well as Swildens

T-shirts and bohemian accessories. The stock store

of 51. Bel Air (22, rue Beaurepaire) offers very

feminine clothing. Across the street at 52. Ideco (19, rue Beaurepaire), you’ll ind fun gifts including Pantone iPhone covers, postcards and journals.

Next door is 53. Liza Korn (19, rue Beaurepaire), which offers clothing for women and children as

well as home and baby linens.

Continuing along, you’ll ind gorgeous clothing for men and women at 54. Cotélac (30, rue Beaure-paire). Across the street is the fair-trade store 55. Bazar Ethic (25, rue Beaurepaire). A Parisian

chain store, 56. The Kooples (32, rue Beaure-

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Copyright 2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls' Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved.

Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th)

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Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th) cont’d

1. Carrefour de L’Odeon – starting point

2. 5 Carrefour de L’Odeon – Le Comptoir du Relais

2b. 4-6-8 Cour de Commerce – Un Dimanche à Paris

3. 13 rue de l’Ancienne Comedie – Le Procope

4. 41 rue St. Andre des Arts – Allard

2

5. St. Severin Church

6. St. Julien le Pauvre

7. 56 rue Galande – Aux Trois Mailletz

8. 50 & 52 rue Galande – Le Chat Huant

9. 14 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – the Tea Caddy

10. 4 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – Hotel Esmeralda

11. 37 rue de la Bucherie – Shakespeare and Co.

12. 21 Quai Montebello – Café Panis

13. Eglise Notre Dame

14. Square de Ile de France - Memorial des Martyrs

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Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th) cont’d

15. 55 Quai de Bourbon – Brasserie de l’Île St. Louis

16. 31 rue St. Louis-en-L’ile – Berthillon Ice Cream

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Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th) cont’d

Begin at the 1. Carrefour de l’Odéon near Blvd St. Germain. Near the metro stop Odeon. No-tice the statue of Georges Danton, an early leading figure in the French Revolution.

You might want to start with lunch at 2. Le Comptoir du Relais, at 5 Carrefour de l’Odeon (01 44 27 07 97) which is a café by day where no reservations are required for lunch, and a fancier bistro by night, when reservations are a must. Head north towards the Seine crossing the Blvd. St. Germain but do not go up rue de l'An-cienne Comédie. Continue a bit further along Blvd. St. Germain to the right, heading east, and take a left very quickly on Cour du Commerce . This is a lovely little back way stroll.

2b. Un Dimanche à Paris, 4-6-8 Cour de Commerce, which you'll notice on your right is a new chocolate store, actually it's more a choco-late experience. Not only do they sell chocolates, pastries and wonderful edible gifts, they have a chocolate lounge with chocolate inspired cocktails and a chocolate focused restaurant, no joke! This chocolate wonderland exists thanks to the imagi-nation of Pierre Cluizel, whose family has been making chocolate since 1948.

Notice the historic 3. Restaurant Le Pro-cope 13 rue de l’Ancienne Comedie on your left where Benjamin Franklin dined. (We don’t recom-mend the restaurant, as it is too touristy for our tastes.) There is also a cute toy store further down on the left. This passageway will lead you to rue St. André-des-Arts — turn right here. This is a fun day or evening stroll. There are some cute shops along St. André-des-Arts but nothing terribly chic or original. The area is enchanting as this is actually what Paris looked like before the architect Haussmann tore down these small neighborhoods in order to make the wide boule-

vards we now see on the right bank.

Note the 4. Bistro Allard at 41 St. André-des-Arts (01 43 26 48 23) which is a classic bistro and worth remembering for dinner. They are fa-mous for their whole duck covered in olives. It’s a very friendly place though a bit touristy. Con-tinue along St. André until you reach Blvd Saint-Michel and cross over, zigzagging a bit as you enter the 5th Arrondissement and continue on rue St. Séverin all the way through to rue St. Jacques.

The 5. Church St. Séverin is worth noting for it is a very old gothic example and its organ is quite famous — duck in for a look.

The church began construction in the 11th century, but most of what you’ll see dates from the 15th cen-tury. Cross over rue St. Jacques and pick up the angled rue St. Julien-le-Pauvre to see what is often thought of as the oldest church in Paris, dating back to the 12th century. 6. Église St. Julien-le-Pauvre. Here they frequently have music performances such as Vivaldi’s Four Sea-sons or the Ave Maria, which we highly recom-mend. Look for the schedules posted around town and near the church itself. They also have these performances at Sainte-Chapelle, Église St. Germain and other notable churches.

Across the street, if you are here at night, there is a funky little café called 7. Aux Trois Mail-letz 56 rue Galande at the corner of rue St. Julien-le-Pauvre and Galande (01 43 54 00 79) complete with a bad Edith Piaf imitator singing in the back. The basement has a café and more jazz. If you are in the mood for kitsch, have a couple of glasses here.

Also on rue Galande, there is a special little Japanese store called 8. Le Chat Huant, 50 & 52 rue Galande (01 46 33 67 56). We have found some charming tea cups in there and other goodies from Asia that are finely crafted. Heading

This tour takes between 2 and 4 hours depending on how long you linger.

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Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th) cont’d

back up rue St. Julien-le-Pauvre towards the Seine there is a darling tea salon called 9. the Tea Caddy that has been at number 14 rue St Julien-le-Pauvre since 1928.

At 4 rue St. Julien-le-Pauvre you’ll find the 10. Hôtel Esmeralda immortalized in the children’s book Linnea in Monet’s Garden (01 43 54 19 20). Take a quick look inside — it’s about as old Paris bohemian chic as you can get as well as a real bargain. We understand that apartment 3 is par-ticularly charming.

Continue along towards the Seine to the Quai de Montebello — turn left on rue de la Bûcherie. Here you’ll find our favorite bookshop in Paris and one of the most unusual bookshops in the world, called 11. Shakespeare and Co. at 37 rue de laBûcherie (01 43 25 40 93). There are a number of books written about it but our favorite is Time Was Soft There by Jeremy Mercer. George Whitman, an American now in his 90s, began the bookshop in 1951 and everybody — and we mean everybody — has done readings here. They still have poetry and other readings on Monday nights at 7pm. Check the website for details. Take a long look around this place and you’ll find many surprises. George has let struggling writers stay here over the years and you’ll see evidence — note the small beds placed here and there. The place is open until 11pm and you’ll undoubtedly meet some interesting folks here. George’s daughter now runs the shop but his motto remains on the wall on the 2nd floor — “Be not inhospitable to strangers lest they be angels in disguise.” This place harkens back to a lost time that somehow manages to live on strongly here in this tiny shop across from Notre Dame.

If you need a quick coffee, stop in at 12. Café Panis, 21 Quai de Montebello (01 43 54 19 71) where all the Shakespeare & Co staff go for drinks or tea. Café Panis is just outside the bookshop to your right, about half a block down the street past the park.

After your literary exposure, you’ll be ready for spirituality! Go across on the pedestrian bridge (on the weekends this bridge turns into a roller-blading and skateboarding stage) to 13. Notre Dame. Stand in line to see this monumental Gothic beauty even if you have seen it before — we try to go in each time we are in Paris. It is sim-ply amazing that this church is nearly 850 years old. If you haven’t done it, circle around to the side and stand in line to climb to the top, there’s a great view from the roof.

Then walk around to the back of Notre-Dame on the Seine side through the lovely gardens and take a much needed rest in the back garden, which is often very quiet even when Notre-Dame is swamped. The back of Notre-Dame is just as impressive as the façade with its famed flying but-tresses and gargoyles. Further behind Notre Dame is a serene and moving monument that is a bit hard to find. It’s at the very tip of Île de la Cité and is called the 14. Mémorial des Martyrs de la Déportation. This is a memorial to the

200,000 Jewish people and others who were de-ported from France during the German occupation of the 1940’s and sent off to Nazi concentration camps.

Pick up your mood by crossing over the bridge to Île Saint-Louis and try the 15. Brasserie de l'Île St. Louis at 55 Quai de Bourbon (01 43 54 02 59). This is a perfect stop for a pint of frosty cold beer and some French fries or choucroute (the fa-mous Alsatian dish of potatoes, wieners and sauer-kraut). A drink on the terrace in fine weather is just what the doctor ordered. Or, stroll further down the rue St. Louis-en l’Île and sample some of the fa-mous 16. Berthillon Ice Cream at 31 rue St.-Louis-en-l’Île (01 43 54 31 61.)

Continue down the rue St. Louis-en-l’Île until the end and cross over to the right bank onto Blvd Henri IV and continue on into the Marais or go

5 32

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Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th) cont’d

Points of Interest Addresses 1. Carrefour de L’Odeon – starting point.

2. 5 Carrefour de L’Odeon – Le Comptoir du Relais 2b. 4-6-8 Cour de Commerce – Un Dimanche à Paris

1. 13 rue de l’Ancienne Comedie – Le Procope

2. 41 rue St. Andre des Arts – Allard

3. St. Severin Church

4. St. Julien le Pauvre

5. 56 rue Galande – Aux Trois Mailletz

6. 50 & 52 rue Galande – Le Chat Huant

7. 14 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – the Tea Caddy

8. 4 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – Hotel Esmeralda

9. 37 rue de la Bucherie – Shakespeare and Co.

10. 21 Quai Montebello – Café Panis

11. Eglise Notre Dame

12. Square de Ile de France - Memorial des Martyrs

13. 55 Quai de Bourbon – Brasserie de l’Île St. Louis

14. 31 rue St. Louis-en-L’ile – Berthillon Ice Cream

back to your hotel or apartment for a much de-served rest, you’ll be near Metro Sully-Morland.

33

Latin Quarter Stroll

34

Latin Quarter Stroll

1. Shakespeare and Company, 37, rue de la

Bûcherie, start

2. Eglise St.-Julien-le-Pauvre, rue St.-Julien-le-

Pauvre

3. Eglise St.-Séverin, 3, rue des Prêtres-St.-Séverin

4. Musée national du Moyen Age, 6, Place Paul

Painlevé

5. La Sorbonne

6. Panthéon, Place du Panthéon

7. Eglise St.-Etienne-du-Mont, Place Ste.-

Geneviève

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Latin Quarter Stroll

15. La Grande Mosquée de Paris, 2 bis, Place du Puits de l'Ermite

16. Jardin des Plantes, Muséum national d'histoire naturelle, La Grande Galerie

de l'Evolution, 36, rue Geoffroy-St.-Hilaire

8. Musée de la préfecture de police, 4, rue de la Montagne-Ste.-Geneviève

9. Place Maubert

10. Eric Kayser, 14, rue Monge

11. Eglise St.-Nicolas-du-Chardonnet, 23, rue des Bernardins

12. Hemingway’s House, 74, rue du Cardinal Lemoine13. Rue Mouffetard14. Les Arènes de Lutèce, 4ф, rue Monge

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Latin Quarter Stroll

17. Jardin Tino Rossi (Musée de la sculpture en plein air), quai St.-

Bernard

18. Institut du Monde Arabe, Le Zyriab, 1, rue des Fossés-St.-

Bernard

19. La Tour d’Argent, 15, quai de la Tournelle

Points of Interest Addresses

1. Shakespeare and Company, 37, rue de la Bûcherie2. Eglise St.-Julien-le-Pauvre, rue St.-Julien-le-Pauvre3. Eglise St.-Séverin, 3, rue des Prêtres-St.-Séverin4. Musée national du Moyen Age, 6, Place Paul Painlevé5. La Sorbonne6. Panthéon, Place du Panthéon7. Eglise St.-Etienne-du-Mont, Place Ste.-Geneviève8. Musée de la préfecture de police, 4, rue de la Montagne-Ste.-

Geneviève9. Place Maubert10. Eric Kayser, 14, rue Monge11. Eglise St.-Nicolas-du-Chardonnet, 23, rue des Bernardins12. Hemingway’s House, 74, rue du Cardinal Lemoine13. Rue Mouffetard14. Les Arènes de Lutèce, 47, rue Monge15. La Grande Mosquée de Paris, 2, Place du Puits-de-l'Ermite16. Jardin des Plantes, Muséum national d’histoire naturelle, La

Grande Galerie de l'Evolution, 36, rue Geoffroy-St.-Hilaire17. Jardin Tino Rossi (Musée de la sculpture en plein air), quai St.-

Bernard18. Institut du Monde Arabe, Le Zyriab, 1, rue des Fossés-St.-Bernard19. La Tour d’Argent, 15, quai de la Tournelle

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Latin Quarter Stroll

This tour can be done in two half-day sessions, or the hearty traveler can take an entire day to visit the sights of the Latin Quarter.

Welcome to the 5th Arrondissement, also known as the Latin Quarter because of the large number of international students who spoke Latin in the area starting as far back as the mid-12th century.

Begin at 1. Shakespeare and Company, at 37, rue de la Bûcherie, just off the quai de Montebello and rue St.-Jacques. The closest metro stop is St.-Michel. Shakespeare and Company is a unique bookstore and a favorite for any literary lover. It was founded by George Whitman, an American resting in Paris after World War II and brushing up on his French at the Sorbonne. The books he accumulated while studying warranted the opening of the store, where many notable writers passed through to read, write or take a bed during tough times. The store still encourages new and established scribes to share their work during regularly scheduled readings.

After perusing the many books, exit the store and turn right, into the adjacent park at Square René Viviani. Spin around for a fabulous view of Notre Dame, and then find a leaning tree in the back right corner. You’re now looking at what is believed to be the oldest tree in Paris, planted in 1602. Continue past the tree to the gate in the

right corner and enter 2. Eglise St.-Julien-le-Pauvre on your left. It’s said that parts of the church date as far back as the 6th century, but most of it is a mix of Roman and Gothic influences from the 11th and 12th centuries. It became a Greek Orthodox church in the late 1800s because there were so many other Catholic churches nearby, including the one you will be visiting next.

Turn left out of the church and cross rue du Petit Pont ahead, and you’ll be looking at the side of 3. Eglise St.-Séverin. Note the expressive gargoyles hanging off the side of the building, and then walk around to the front of the church and admire the flames above, which lend credence to its architectural style, Flamboyant Gothic. Compare the 16th-century stained glass in the back of the church with the newer 19th- and 20th-century designs in the front. Exit at the back left and turn right onto St.-Jacques, right onto St.-Germain and left into the Square de Cluny.

Walk to the far left and admire the gardens and the medicinal plants scattered throughout. Follow the signs around to the right for the 4. Musée national du Moyen Age, inside of which you’ll find medieval art, stained glass, gothic sculpture and the museum’s most prized possession, a collection of 15th-century tapestries called "The Lady and the Unicorn.”

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Latin Quarter Stroll

Exiting the museum, step into the small garden across the street and you’ll be looking at one of the buildings of the 5. Sorbonne. It was founded in 1257, making it one of the first universities in the world, and now has 18 locations. Entrance to the school is only possible with a student or staff ID, but anyone can apply for enrollment.

Turn left onto rue des Ecoles, and then right onto rue St.-Jacques. Climb the hill and make a right onto rue Soufflot, and you’ll be staring at the 6. Panthéon. Honestly, it’s no St. Peter’s, but you can tour the Panthéon to see where some of the French greats were buried, like Victor Hugo, Marie Curie and Voltaire. Or go to the roof for expansive views of Paris.

Exiting the building to the right, follow it around to the back, and you’ll find the impressive 7. Eglise St.-Etienne-du-Mont, the site of many pilgrimages to visit the patron saint of the church, who is honored for saving Paris from Attila the Hun. Completed in 1626, this Gothic church took over 125 years to create.

Turn right down the windy rue de la Montagne-Ste.-Geneviève and cross over rue des Ecoles, and you’ll see an institutional-looking building on your left, which houses a police station as well as the 8. Musée de la prefecture de police. Youneed to walk through the police station to

reach the museum on the second floor, but you will be rewarded with something other than your typical art and sculpture collections. While most information is in French, you can grab an English brochure to read about the crimes and descriptions of serial killers. You’ll also see an assortment of murder weapons, such as a guillotine, hammers, ice picks and pistols.

Outside on the corner, you’ll find the 9. Place Maubert, and if you time your visit for a Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday morning, you’ll be in for a gastronomical treat, thanks to a farmer’s market selling the best of the season. Grab some fresh fruit, a strong, French cheese and some charcuterie for a spontaneous outdoor picnic. Fromagerie Laurent Dubois, at 47, boulevard St.-Germain, has some of the best cheese in Paris.

If it’s not a market day, there are also good specialty shops at the Place Maubert for sampling similar local fare. You can also turn right on St.-Germain and right onto rue Monge for 10. Eric Kayser. Purchase a baguette, pastry or any other bread product that catches your eye at this award-winning boulangerie. With cheese and bread, you’ll be all set for a picnic in the Jardin des Plantes, which you’ll find later in this tour.

Just across the street on the corner of rue Monge and rue des Bernardins is 11. Eglise St.-Nicolas-du-Chardonnet. This church is

39

Latin Quarter Stroll

the headquarters of the less-than-traditional Society of St.-Pius, which in the 1970s did not agree with many changes in church laws and was to be expelled from the location. It never left and still remains today. It continues to believe in delivering the mass in Latin with the altar and priest facing away from the congregation.

Continue left up rue Monge, crossing rue des Ecoles, and turn right on rue du Cardinal Lemoine. Go up the hill to No. 74, where you’ll see a plaque announcing the residence of 12. Ernest Hemingway. This is where Hemingway lived with his first wife and wrote A Moveable Feast.

If your legs can take you no farther, end the day’s tour ahead on 13. rue Mouffetard, a foodie-filled street. Beware of the many tourist spots, and head down the hill where there are a few decent spots to eat.

For the diehards ready to see all of the 5th in a day, retrace your steps back down to rue Monge and continue until you see the simple archway for the 14. Arènes de Lutèce. Step inside and you’ll find an old Roman arena that once held up to 15,000 spectators. Built around the end of the first century AD, it was rediscovered under debris in 1869. While you will no longer be able to catch any gladiators doing battle, you will find students playing sports or French men playing boules. Walk all the way through to see the gardens and fountain in

the back. Pass the playground, and exit the gate to the left onto rue des Arènes. Turn right on rue Linné, right on rue Lacépède and left onto rue de Quatrefages.

Halfway down the block, you’ll see a beautiful tiled archway for the 15. Grande Mosquée de Paris. The mosque was completed in 1926 as a sign of appreciation to the Muslim community for helping the French battle the Germans in World War I. There is an area for worship and study, and visitors can tour part of the facility and enjoy the café’s mint tea and North African food.

Retrace your steps back to rue Lacépède and cross rue Geoffroy-St.-Hilaire and enter the gates to the 16. Jardin des Plantes and the Muséum national d'histoire naturelle. Stay to the left and you’ll dead-end into the Cabinet d’Histoire, or continue to the right to the Grande Galerie de l'Evolution, which will entertain kids and adults alike with its life-size animal displays. You’ll see whales, monkeys and birds all hanging from the ceiling, with elephants, dinosaurs and giraffes surrounding them. Want something more lifelike? Step into the garden’s menagerie to interact with live animals, or simply wander the beautiful grounds and admire the flowers, trees and large collection of medicinal plants.

Exit the opposite end of the gardens onto the Place Valhubert, crossing the few

40

Latin Quarter Stroll

streets directly in front of you until you reach the quai St.-Bernard. Turn left on the quai and take the lower path down to the water to 17. Jardin Tino Rossi (Musée de la sculpture en plein air). Wander the series of serene walkways, and just before you reach the bridge, turn left to return to street level.

The large glass 18. Institut du Monde Arabe will be in front of you. Cross the street and enter the sun-sensitive building. You can learn more about Islamic history, archaeology and arts here. Enjoy the quality bookshop on the ground floor, or go straight to the roof for panoramic views of Paris. If you want to enjoy a meal with your view, make a reservation at the Lebanese restaurant Le Zyriab, also on the roof.

If you’d prefer some French food after your long tour of the 5th Arrondissement, make a reservation at the high-end, one-starred Michelin restaurant 19. La Tour d’Argent, just down the street at 15, quai de la Tournelle. It not only offers outstanding food, but its dining room has spectacular views of Notre Dame.

Alternately, a less expensive but very romantic place to dine is Le Coupe-Chou, at 9–11, rue de Lanneau, near the Sorbonne. There’s also the newer Restaurant Sola, at 12, rue de l'Hôtel Colbert, for sublime French-Japanese fusion. All restos require reservations.

41

Louvre to Opera Walk

DES Jardin desTuileries

42

Louvre to Opera Walk

1. Louvre, rue de Rivoli2. Café Marly, 93 rue de Rivoli3. Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 107 rue de

Rivoli

4. Jardin des Tuileries, rue de Rivoli5. Musée de L’Orangerie, Jardin des

Tuileries6. Jeu de Paume, 1 place de la Concorde7. Place de la Concorde8. Hôtel de Crillon, 10 place de la

Concordeϝ9. WH Smith, 248 rue de Rivoli10. Pierre Hermé, 4 rue Cambon

11. Le Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli12. Angelina, 226 rue de Rivoli13. Place Vendôme14. Ritz, 15 Place Vendôme

Jardin des Tuileries

43

Louvre to Opera Walk

15. Harry’s New York Bar, 5 rue Daunou16. Palais Garnier, 1 place de l’Opera17. Café de la Paix, 12 Boulevard des

Capucines

18. Place de la Madeleine19. Fauchon, 24 – 2 place de la Madeleine20. Hédiard, 21 place de la Madeleine21. Eglise de la Madeleine

44

Louvre to Opéra Walk

On this walk, you’ll get a good dose of culture with a great selection of museums to visit, including the world-famous Louvre. It won’t be possible to visit in one day all the museums listed, but this approximate 3 hour walk will give you a good overview, so you can decide where you’d like to return. And no tour is complete without some gourmet stops to enjoy the many wonderful Parisian delicacies.

Start your day as soon as the 1. Louvre (rue de Rivoli ) opens, at 9 a.m., to avoid some of the crowds, but keep in mind that it’s closed on Tuesdays. You’ll never be able to see all 35,000 works of art in a day, so pick a few highlights, themes or time periods to explore. The Louvre is one of the largest museums in the world and dates back to the 12th century, when a fortress was needed to protect the city from an Anglo-Norman attack. It transitioned to a royal fortress and eventually into a museum in 1793.

If you need a pick-me-up after your visit, sit on the terrace of 2. Café Marly (93, rue de Rivoli) and enjoy views of I. M. Pei’s glass pyramid, but expect to pay the price for the exceptional location and view.

Next to the Louvre in the Hall Rohan’s 3. Musée des Arts Décoratifs (107, rue deRivoli) are three independently operated museums, worth a visit for a look at the role of fashion, design and decorative arts in industry and culture. The Musée des Arts Décoratifs features decorative arts from the Middle Ages to today. The Musée de la Mode et du Textile highlights fashion from the 16th century to the present, and the Musée de la Publicité features advertising from around

the world. Look for interesting, frequently rotating exhibitions at each.

Walk out of the museum and through the beautifully landscaped 4. Jardin des Tuileries (rue de Rivoli). Initially a palace garden under Catherine de Médicis, the park was later opened to the public and designed by André Le Nôtre, the architect of the gardens at Versailles, in the 17th century. Grab one of the iconic green chairs and position it for a prime view of the expansive gardens and some great people watching.

If you haven’t hit museum overload yet, there are two more situated next to the Place de la Concorde. The 5. Musée de l’Orangerie (Jardin des Tuileries) features Claude Monet’s water lily paintings, among other impressionist work from the 19th and 20th centuries, including pieces by Cézanne, Renoir, Picasso and Matisse.

Opposite the Orangerie is the 6. Jeu de Paume (1, Place de la Concorde). Once a tennis court, it now focuses on photography exhibitions from the 19th to 21st centuries.

At the end of the Tuileries, pop out onto the 7. Place de la Concorde to see Paris’s largestsquare and to catch a glimpse of the Arc de Triomphe at the top of the Champs Elysées. In the middle of the Place de la Concorde, a statue of Louis XV once stood; it was replaced with a guillotine, which was later used for many notable names, including Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. The 75-foot-tall golden-topped obelisk that you now see in the middle of the square used to sit outside the Luxor Temple and dates back to 1550 BCE. It was given as a gift to France from the viceroy of Egypt in 1829. The base of the obelisk shows the complex manner in which the 230-ton object was shipped to France. The featured

45

Louvre to Opéra Walk

hieroglyphics celebrate the reigns of pharaohs, Ramses II and Ramses III, and the golden top was added by the government in 1998.

On the western edge of the Place de la Concorde sits the famed 8. Hôtel de Crillon (10, Place de la Concorde), once an opulent home to the Count of Crillon. The first traveler was welcomed to the hotel in 1909, and service has been continuous and near perfection ever since.

Turn onto rue de Rivoli, and soon on your left you’ll see 9. W. H. Smith (248, rue de Rivoli). Stop in if you need any books, travel guides or magazines written in English.

Turn left on rue Cambon for one of the best macarons in Paris at 10. Pierre Hermé (4, rue Cambon). With the shop’s beautiful packaging and sculpted chocolates, it will be hard to leave without a shopping bag.

Continue down rue de Rivoli and you’ll find the five-star hotel 11. Le Meurice (228, rue de Rivoli), with the three-star Michelin restaurant of the same name. If your budget does not allow for a stay or a meal here, have a drink inside and take a peek at the Philippe Starck–designed dining area, resembling an opulent room at Versailles.

For something more casual but still beautiful, go next door to 12. Angelina (226, rue de Rivoli) for a rich, over-the-top hot chocolate, and try picking just one decadent sweet to accompany it. There’s a reason Angelina has been around for over a century.

Turn back on rue de Rivoli and make a right up rue de Castiglione to the 13. Place Vendôme, one of Paris’s most prestigious squares, though it actually has eight sides,

which makes it an octagon. The Place Vendôme was initially constructed in the 18th century, and it has seen several statues come and go over the years, including a homage to Napoleon’s military prowess made from Russian and Austrian canons captured during the battle of Austerlitz. This, too, was destroyed and re-created and stands in the square today. The Place Vendôme is now home to many top-name jewelers and upscale boutiques, in addition to the iconic 14. Ritz Hotel* (15, Place Vendôme), which is worth a stop for a drink or more to enjoy the beautiful decor and people, perhaps including a few celebrities. *Closed for renovations until 2014.

Continue up rue de la Paix, and if you’re still thirsty, duck into 15. Harry’s New York Bar (5, rue Daunou), to the right on rue Daunou. As the name suggests, Harry’s started in New York, where an avid patron loved the place so much that he asked if the whole bar could be moved to Paris, and voilà. Harry’s has been in Paris since 1911. Choose from among the 300 whiskies, or have one of the white-coated bartenders whip you up a New York specialty.

When you arrive at the major intersection and roundabout, you’ll immediately see your next stop, the 16. Palais Garnier (1, Place de l’Opéra). Napoleon III ordered construction of this magnificent building, which was the most expensive built during the Second Empire, and it was instantly deemed a masterpiece. The chandelier in the center of the theatre was designed by Charles Garnier himself and weighs in at seven tons with all its bronze and crystal accoutrements. The brilliant multicolored mural on the ceiling was painted in 1964 by Marc Chagall, and each scene depicts a different story from a different opera. If you can’t get tickets to a performance but would like to see the inside

46

Louvre to Opéra Walk

of the building, the Palais Garnier offers well-executed tours of the breathtaking venue.

Leaving the Opéra with a right onto boulevard des Capucines, you’ll pass the classic 17. Café de la Paix (12, boulevard des Capucines), a great stop for a pre- or post-Opéra drink or bite. With the café’s gorgeous dining room and terrace, you’ll be drinking where notables like Oscar Wilde and Marlene Dietrich once did.

Enjoy some window-shopping on your way to the 18. Place de la Madeleine, where you’ll find a food mecca. Head to your right and you’ll come to the first of two separate buildings for 19. Fauchon (24-26, Place de la Madeleine). The first shop has an extensive seafood section, as well as a large offering of cheese and charcuterie, macarons, and a bakery, where you can either eat your delicacies or get them to go. The shop kitty-corner has a full floor of sweets and savory items to pack in your suitcase as gifts for friends or yourself. There’s also a café upstairs for dining, and a full floor dedicated to wine below.

Continuing your loop, you’ll find 20. Hédiard (21, Place de la Madeleine) opposite Fauchon. Enjoy the selection of jams, teas, salts, fresh produce, desserts and wine. Buy something for a future picnic, or if you can’t wait, eat in the restaurant upstairs, which features the best of Hédiard’s products.

End your tour in the center of the plaza at the 21. Eglise de la Madeleine. In 1806Napoleon gave instructions to build a “Temple of Glory” for his army. After his fall, there were delays that prevented the church from opening until 1842. Check the schedules to try and catch a concert in the traditional basilica.

Points of Interest Addresses

1. Louvre, rue de Rivoli2. Café Marly, 93, rue de Rivoli, 01 49 26 06 603. Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 107, rue de Rivoli4. Jardin des Tuileries, rue de Rivoli5. Musée de l’Orangerie, Jardin des Tuileries6. Jeu de Paume, 1, Place de la Concorde7. Place de la Concorde8. Hôtel de Crillon, 10, Place de la Concorde9. W. H. Smith, 248, rue de Rivoli10. Pierre Hermé, 4, rue Cambon11. Le Meurice, 228, rue de Rivoli, 01 44 58 10 1012. Angelina, 226, rue de Rivoli, 01 42 60 88 5013. Place Vendôme14. Ritz, 15, Place Vendôme15. Harry’s New York Bar, 5, rue Daunou16. Palais Garnier, 1, Place de l’Opéra17. Café de la Paix, 12, boulevard des Capucines,

01 40 07 36 3618. Place de la Madeleine19. Fauchon, 24-26, Place de la Madeleine20. Hédiard, 21, Place de la Madeleine21. Eglise de la Madeleine

47

1

Stroll from St. Germain to the Louvre (6th - 1st)

48

2

Stroll from St. Germain to the Louvre (6th - 1st) cont’d

1. Rue Bonaparte and Boulevard St. Germain

2. 6 Pl. St. Germain – Café Deux Magots

3. 172 Blvd. St. Germain – Café de Flore

5. 43 Rue de Seine – La Palette

6. 60 Rue de Seine – Simone de Beauvoir’s former home

4. 21 Rue Bonaparte – Laduree

2 49

3

Stroll from St. Germain to the Louvre (6th - 1st) cont’d

7. Pont des Arts

8. The Louvre

9. Place de la Concorde - Hotel de Crillon*

3 *Closed for renovations until 201550

2

Stroll from St. Germain to the Louvre (6th - 1st) cont’d

Begin at 1. Rue Bonaparte and Blvd St. Germain across from Église St. Germain (one of the oldest churches in Paris and worth a look). Clos-

est metro stop is Odeon.

You will be next to the über-famous 2. Deux Magots café at 6 Pl. St. Germain-des-Prés, which was the favored café of Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir. Some people love to go here to say they did. We prefer 3. Café de Flore, at 172 Blvd. St. Germain next door but in general both are overpriced and the waiters can be less than friendly.

Stroll on rue Bonaparte towards the Seine pass-ing Louis Vuitton on your left. Turn right on rue Jacob. If you are already winded (God help you!) you can stop into 4. Ladurée (located at 21 rue Bonaparte) for lovely palmiers (elephant ears) or any other pastry and a cup of tea. This is a great place to buy a gift, as the boxes and pack-aging are as delicious as the French pastries. Ladurée has several other locations around Paris, including one on the Champs-Élysées as well as another near the Madeleine. They are famous for their macaroons.

Continue along rue Jacob, which is a wonderful street chock-full of fabulous shops, antiques, and bookstores. Turn left on rue de Seine. This street is well known for its art galleries and the artist hangout 5. La Palette at 43 rue de Seine. They serve breakfast and it’s always a good stop for a drink. They have been here since 1902. As the name implies, it was frequented by painters

back in the day and is still very popular with tourists and Parisians alike. Continue on to-wards the Seine on rue de Seine stopping as you like in the galleries. Take note of 6. 60 rue de Seine where Simone de Beau-voir lived. She was a brilliant French philoso-pher and feminist. Which is back down south on rue de Seine a few blocks.

Also notice the old photo shop near the end of rue de Seine, Roger-Viollet on your left as you ap-proach the river, which has been selling photos of Paris and other places since the early 1900s. Cross the street just after rue Mazarine and go through the small porthole doorway. And voilà — you are in the square which is home to the spectacular Institut de France created in 1795 and which encom-passes the Beaux-Arts and the Académie Française among other Academies.

After you are done taking pictures of the Institut with its marvelous gold dome, cross the street walking across the 7. Pont des Arts pedes-trian bridge. This is our favorite pedestrian bridge, which sees a lot of activity in the sum-mer as people set up picnics with candelabras, couscous and wine. It’s also a popular bridge on New Year’s Eve where many Parisians con-gregate with their bottles of champagne be-cause you can see the sparkling Eiffel Tower from here. Everyone wishes each other a “Bonne Année!” and if you are in Paris on New Year’s, it’s a must! Enjoy the view as you pass across and then enter one of the back en-trances to the square outside the Louvre, which will be right in front of you. Even at night you may go in this way.

It’s fun to imagine that you’re coming home via carriage to your palace after a ball, back in the time of the Louis’. As you pass the small gar-dens on either side and walk towards the foun-tain, imagine you’ll have to choose which of the many rooms you might want to sleep in tonight. 8. The Louvre is the largest museum in the

This tour takes between 1 and 3 hours depending on how much time you spend in the Louvre. (Can be done day or night, although some places are not open at night of course.)

4 51

3

Stroll from St. Germain to the Louvre (6th - 1st) cont’d

world. Construction began in the 12th century on the building and it was used back then as a palace by François the 1st as well as the Sun King, Louis XIV. It did not become a museum until the early 1800s. After you have marveled at this square inside the many exterior walls of the Louvre, walk towards the archway to your left and pause for the dramatic view of the pyra-mide, then proceed through this archway and enjoy the larger square of the Louvre site. You can enter the museum through the pyramide, designed by I.M. Pei and opened in 1989. There was an uproar in Paris when it first opened, but now most Parisians feel that the pyramide is a perfect marriage of the new with the old. It is especially beautiful when seen at night — the pyramide somehow makes the entire site more exciting and alive and with its shape echoes the ancient past as well as feeling quite modern even though it is now 20 years old. There are 35,000 works of art here so do not try and do it all. Pick one small area, enjoy that and be satis-fied. After your visit, stop for a bite at Café Marly, which faces the pyramide and is open every day for lunch and dinner. This is the best view of the pyramide and the Louvre in Paris.

If you have time and your feet aren’t aching yet — continue straight on towards the small Arc de Triomphe structure which is named the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel. [The vrai (real) Arc de Triomphe is a very long walk away at the end of the Champs-Élysées.] Straight ahead are the Tuil-eries Gardens. The famous garden architect, Le Nôtre, planned the Tuileries. There is a carnival here in the summer. The sculptures in the gardens are lovely — not far from the Arc. Note the large piece by Louise Bourgeois, a French artist who now lives in New York, of a large spider eerily titled Maman (mother). This is the same sculpture you will find at the Guggenheim Bilbao in Spain & the Tate Modern in London. Bourgeois is an important

5

artist who is still going strong into her late 90s. She had to wait until she was quite old after her husband and father had both died to be noticed by the international art establishment. Enjoy the Tuileries at a casual pace — stop for a crêpe at one of the stands. You’ll end at the Place de la Concorde — where Marie Antoinette had her head chopped off. Don’t worry; they don’t do that kind of thing anymore in Paris. Go for a tea or a glass of champagne at the 9. Hôtel de Crillon on the Place de la Concorde. This is

the best hotel in Paris with a fabulous gift shop. You’ll be right near the metro stop Concorde right on the place.

Points of Interest Addresses

1. Rue Bonaparte and Boulevard St. Germain

2. 6 Pl. St. Germain – Café Deux Magots

3. 172 Blvd. St. Germain – Café de Flore

4. 21 Rue Bonaparte – Ladurée

5. 43 Rue de Seine – La Palette

6. 60 Rue de Seine – Simone de Beauvoir’s former home

7. Pont des Arts

8. 93 Rue Rivoli – The Louvre / Café Marly

9. 10, Place de la Concorde – Hotel de Crillon

52

Walk from the Palais Royal to the Pompidou

53

Walk from the Palais Royal to the Pompidou

1. La Comédie Française, Place

Colette2. Le Palais Royal, Place du Palais

Royal3. Jardin du Palais Royal, 6, rue

de Montpensier

4. Verjus, 47, rue de Montpensier

5. Bibliothèque Nationale, 58,

rue de Richelieu6. Galerie Vivienne, 5, rue de la

Banque7. La Bourse, Palais Brongniart,

Place de la Bourse

8. Sentier District

54

Walk from the Palais Royal to the Pompidou

9. Frenchie, 5-6, rue du Nil10. Rue Montorgueil11. Experimental Cocktail Club, 37,

rue Saint-Sauveur12. Pâtisserie Stohrer, 51, rue

Montorgueil13. Aux Tonneaux des Halles, 28, rue

Montorgueil14. Au Rocher de Cancale, 78, rue

Montorgueil15. L’Art Source, 6, rue Marie Stuart16. Passage du Grand Cerf, 8, rue

Dussoubs17. Rue Saint-Denis

18. Eglise Saint-Eustache, rue du Jour19. Forum des Halles

20. Fontaine Stravinsky21. Centre Pompidou, rue Saint-

Martin22. Place Georges Pompidou

55

Walk from the Palais Royal to the Pompidou

On this walk, you’ll travel through parts of the 1st and 2nd Arrondissements as you meander through the royal gardens, beautiful covered passageways, historic churches and museums, with, of course, many wonderful spots at which to eat along the way. Allow at least three hours to enjoy this tour at a leisurely pace.

The tour begins with Paris’s oldest theatre company, the 1. Comédie Française (Place Colette), which was founded in 1680. It originally performed at the Odéon but moved to this location, near the Palais Royal, in 1799. Most major French actors have performed here and still do. Expect to see classics from Victor Hugo, Molière, and Shakespeare.

Just across rue de Richelieu is the 2. Palais Royal (Place du Palais Royal). The building was originally created in 1634 for Cardinal Richelieu and then passed through several royal families before it fell into ill repute in the 19th century, with ladies doing some unladylike things. It was eventually burned down and restored by the current occupants, the Ministry of Culture and the Conseil d’Etat. Walking into the courtyard, you’ll see what may appear to be out-of-place columns of various sizes, but these were created in 1980 by Daniel Buren.

Walking through the courtyard, away from the Louvre, you’ll find the 3. Jardin du Palais Royal (6, rue de Montpensier), providing a nice oasis in the middle of the bustling city. Grab a bench and enjoy some quiet time, or dive into some upscale shopping at the arcade surrounding the garden. From perfume to bags to designer clothes, you’ll find it all right here.

Exit onto rue de Montpensier and turn right, then continue until the end of the street, where you’ll find a small but wonderful wine bar, 4. Verjus (47, rue de Montpensier). Enjoy a selection of seasonal small plates with wines to match from a friendly and knowledgeable American couple. Or reserve in advance for an exceptional full-course meal in the dining room upstairs.

Exit on rue de Beaujolais and turn left onto rue Vivienne and take a quick right onto rue des Petits Champs. Halfway down the street on your left, you’ll see the beautiful 5. Galerie Vivienne (5, rue de la Banque), adjacent to the Galerie Colbert. Walk on the gorgeous mosaic tiles and feel yourself transported to the 1800s, when these covered passageways were built. They were designed to protect well-coiffed Parisienne shoppers from both the weather and carriage debris. You’ll find every Parisian delight here, including books, flowers, wine, a bistro and the pièce de résistance, a Jean Paul Gaultier shop.

After you walk all the way through Galerie Vivienne, you’ll find yourself in front of the 6. Bibliothèque Nationale (58, rue deRichelieu). Louis XIV originally housed manuscripts here in the 1660s when the Louvre couldn’t take them. As more documents were moved here, the library needed to expand. In addition to important papers, you can also find medals, coins and antiques, but the library is currently undergoing a major renovation, so some areas might be closed during your visit.

Continue right on rue de Richelieu until you reach rue du Quatre Septembre, and then turn right. Shortly on your left, you’ll see the 7. Bourse (Palais Brongniart, Place de laBourse), Paris’s stock exchange. Stock trading has had many homes throughout Paris,

56

Walk from the Palais Royal to the Pompidou

including the Louvre and the Palais Royal, but it landed at this location in 1826. You can tour the Bourse with an advance reservation.

Continue down rue Réaumur. To the north of this street you’ll find the 8. Sentier district, where much of the wholesale clothing industry is based. While it’s not open to the public, you can still wander through and see the reams of colorful cloth, ribbons and accessories.

Turning left on rue des Petits Carreaux and right on to the small alley of rue du Nil, you’ll see one of Paris’s top and toughest tickets in town, the restaurant 9. Frenchie (5–6, rue du Nil). A crowd starts forming outside before 7 p.m. to find out if there are any day-of cancellations. There will also be a line of people directly opposite the restaurant, in front of its namesake wine bar, which is equally as good, and where seats are on a first-come, first-served basis.

Head back to rue des Petits Carreaux and make a left, following it until it turns into the pedestrian- and food-friendly 10. rue Montorgueil. Enjoy all the specialty food shops selling everything from fish to meat, cheese and wine. Farther down the street, there are some fun and funky clothing boutiques as well as interesting art and jewelry shops.

Explore some of the side streets, like rue Saint-Sauveur, where you can step into 11. Experimental Cocktail Club (37, rueSaint-Sauveur), a hip, happening cocktail lounge, for some late-night fun.

Another notable stop along rue Montorgueil is 12. Pâtisserie Stohrer (51, rue Montorgueil). Founded in 1730, it’s the oldest pâtisserie in Paris. As if the decor wasn’t

beautiful enough, there are also croissants, pastries, salads and Stohrer’s claim to fame, the baba au rhum. Be sure to visit on an empty stomach.

There are many great spots to enjoy a glass of wine or a bigger meal. The Montorgueil classic 13. Aux Tonneaux des Halles (28, rue Montorgueil) has a wonderful duck confit, and there’s the 19th-century literary hang 14. Au Rocher de Cancale (78, rue Montorgueil).

Turn down rue Marie Stuart and you can quench your thirst for great wine and tapas at 15. l’Art Source (6, rue Marie Stuart). At theend of this street is the gorgeous 16. Passage du Grand Cerf (8, rue Dussoubs). This bright passage was created in 1825 and used as a point in the royal mail coach service. Now you can find trendy designer and workmen’s shops selling unique and interesting personal and home items.

If you exit at the other end, you’ll be on 17. rue Saint-Denis. While this street’sreputation has improved, you’ll still find ladies of the evening working here, as well as other semi-seedy types around the neon-lit sex shops.

Turn right on rue Saint-Denis and move quickly through the street, then make another right onto rue de Turbigo and follow it until you dead-end at the behemoth construction site that currently is les Halles. Before you fully dive in, take a right on rue Rambuteau and walk until you come to the beautiful 18. Eglise Saint-Eustache (rue du Jour).Construction on the church began in 1532, and it’s a mix of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The church boasts an 8,000-pipe organ, and most Sundays you can catch a free concert here.

57

Walk from the Palais Royal to the Pompidou

Turning back to face the beast that is the 19. Forum des Halles, you’ll have to pictureit as it once was—a bustling, commercial market selling food and produce to Paris’s big buyers. When the market was moved out of town to ease congestion, the area never quite recovered. There’s a string of chain stores in the massive, constructed mall, along with a complex web of transportation underground. Most people avoid it by night, or even by day, but attempts are being made to restore the forum to a more consumer-friendly area. Time will tell, though, if this lofty goal will be achieved.

After crossing through the Forum des Halles, exit on rue Berger and turn left, walking toward the Centre Georges Pompidou, but before going in, admire the 20. Fontaine Stravinsky behind it. The collection of playful water decorations sprays, squirts and delights those heading into the Pompidou.

You can see the exterior of the 21. Centre Pompidou (rue Saint-Martin) from many places throughout Paris, given its bold, bright primary colors and “inside-out” architecture featuring large pipes and tubes protruding from the building. The Centre Pompidou, aka Beaubourg, was designed by architects Renzo Piano, Richard Rogers and Gianfranco Franchini and is home to the largest modern-art collection in Europe. It was built in 1977 and is a unique, vast building with five stories of art and panoramic views from the top. Many notable exhibitions rotate through the temporary spaces, so check the schedule to plan your visit.

As you leave the building, join the masses in the 22. Place Georges Pompidou to watch street performers, artists and tourists enjoy the activity and sights in this bustling square.

Points of Interest Addresses

1. La Comédie Française, Place Colette2. Le Palais Royal, Place du Palais Royal3. Jardin du Palais Royal, 6, rue de Montpensier4. Verjus, 47, rue de Montpensier, 01 42 97 54 405. Galerie Vivienne, 5, rue de la Banque6. Bibliothèque Nationale, 58, rue de Richelieu7. La Bourse, Palais Brongniart, Place de la Bourse

01 49 27 14 708. Sentier District9. Frenchie, 5–6, rue du Nil, 01 40 39 96 1910. Rue Montorgueil11. Experimental Cocktail Club, 37, rue Saint-Sauveur12. Pâtisserie Stohrer, 51, rue Montorgueil13. Aux Tonneaux des Halles, 28, rue Montorgueil,

01 42 33 36 1914. Au Rocher de Cancale, 78, rue Montorgueil,

01 42 33 50 2915. L’Art Source, 6, rue Marie Stuart, 09 82 55 00 4916. Passage du Grand Cerf, 8, rue Dussoubs17. Rue Saint-Denis18. Eglise Saint-Eustache, rue du Jour19. Forum des Halles20. Fontaine Stravinsky21. Centre Pompidou, rue Saint-Martin22. Place Georges Pompidou

58

Through Fashionable Paris in the Steps of Audrey Hepburn

59

Through Fashionable Paris in the Steps of Audrey Hepburn

1. Givenchy headquarters, 3, avenue George V, 8e2. No. 2, avenue Montaigne, 8e

3. Christian Dior, 30, avenue Montaigne, 8e4. No. 3, avenue de Matignon, 8e5. Stamp market, near avenue Gabriel, 8e

6. American Embassy, 2, avenue Gabriel, 8e7. Maxim’s, 3, rue Royale, 8e

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8. Ritz Hotel, 15, Place Vendôme, 1er

9. Palais Royal, 1er10. Didier Ludot boutique, Palais Royal, 1er11. Comédie Française, 1, Place Colette, 1er

Through Fashionable Paris in the Steps of Audrey Hepburn  

Audrey Hepburn made five films on location in Paris: Funny Face (1957), Love in the Afternoon (1957), Charade (1963), Paris When It Sizzles (1964) and How to Steal a Million (1966). Funny Face was one of the first American films to be shot on location in the city and showcases almost every major tourist attraction. Other films explored some less well known areas. This walk will take you past locations from all five films in the chic 1st and 8th Arrondissements. A list of other locations easily reached by metro or Vélib’ is also included for hard‐core fans. Wear Givenchy. 

The walk starts at the Alma‐Marceau metro station. Take the exit marked Avenue Montaigne. When you emerge in the Place de l’Alma, keep the Eiffel Tower to your left, and cross the road. Walk up avenue George V to 1. Givenchy headquarters, at No. 3.  

This was the site of the first meeting between the young Audrey Hepburn and Hubert de Givenchy in 1954. Audrey 

was about to film Sabrina. Although the movie was shot in Hollywood, it was Hubert de Givenchy who made the glorious dresses that Audrey wears on her return from cooking school in Paris. Okay, no apprentice cook who was the daughter of a chauffeur could really afford to dress like that, but that was 1950s Hollywood fantasy for you. Audrey and Givenchy hit it off from this first meeting, and the rest is history. 

Retrace your steps toward the metro entrance, and turn left into avenue Montaigne. Cross the road to find 2. No. 2, avenue Montaigne. In Funny Face (1957), this is the scene of the fashion parade for which Audrey is late. The building is not open to the public. 

Continue up avenue Montaigne, passing the chic Hôtel Plaza‐Athénée with its red awnings on the left. No. 30 avenue Montaigne, is the flagship of 3. Christian Dior. The building can be glimpsed in Paris When It Sizzles (Marlene Dietrich is seen emerging from a white Rolls‐Royce to enter the store). 

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Enjoy the window displays of the many luxury brands located on this street. Continue all the way to the Champs Elysées. Work your way around the Rond‐Point and enter avenue Matignon, which is directly opposite avenue Montaigne. Look for 4. No. 3, avenue de Matignon. This is the supposed location of the room where William Holden is searching for inspiration in Paris When It Sizzles. 

Cross the road and enter the park. The gardens between the Champs Elysées and Avenue Gabriel feature in both Charade (5. the Stamp Market, which is crucial to the plot, is located here on Thursdays, Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays) and How to Steal a Million (Audrey and Peter O’Toole plot the big heist sitting on a bench here). 

The tree‐shaded avenue Gabriel passes the palace of the French president and ends at No. 2, or 6. The American Embassy. (There are usually lots of security guards in this area.) The embassy is featured at the beginning and end of Charade. Walter Matthau pretends to work there, but it is Cary Grant who turns out to be the real diplomat. 

You will emerge into the Place de la Concorde. Walk past the Hôtel Crillon and turn left into rue Royale. Note the Art Nouveau exterior on your left at No. 3, rue Royale. This is 7. Maxim’s, the chic restaurant where Eli Wallach getsvery friendly with Audrey in How to Steal a Million. Maxim’s maintains a boutique as well as a restaurant, in case you want a souvenir. 

Continue to rue St‐Honoré, turn right, and cross the road. Follow rue St‐Honoré (excellent window‐shopping) to No. 362. This is Cour Vendôme. It offers a shortcut to Place Vendôme. When you emerge into the Place, you will see the white awnings of 8. Hotel Ritz on your left at No. 15.  

The Ritz appears in three of Audrey’s films. The scene in which Audrey drives Peter O’Toole to the hotel in his  E‐type Jaguar (she is wearing a fetching combination of nightdress, coat and gumboots) in the middle of the night in How to Steal a Million is a classic. This is also where Gary Cooper hangs out in Love in the Afternoon. And the magazine editor in Funny Face stays at the Ritz. 

Keeping the hotel on your left, take the road leading out of the Place Vendôme and then turn right into rue Danielle Casanova. This street offers many places to stop for refreshment, or you can buy a sandwich and have a picnic later in the walk, in the gardens of the Palais Royal. 

Cross avenue de l’Opéra and continue along rue des Petits Champs, which is directly opposite. Note the Passage Choiseul on the left, one of Paris’s many beautiful shopping arcades. 

Turn right into rue de Richelieu. Look for Passage Beaujolais, which is just a few doors down on the left. Walk through and you will find yourself at the back of  9. Palais Royal. The Palais Royal Theater is directly in frontof you. Bear left and look for the archway leading into the Palais Royal colonnade and gardens. 

The Palais Royal is the site of the cat‐and‐mouse scene at the end of Charade. Audrey is trying to figure out whether Cary Grant or Walter Matthau is the bad guy, and the stark lighting highlights the colonnade and heightens the drama. 

If you walk the length of the Galerie Montpensier, you will pass the boutique 10. Didier Ludot. This designer has written an entire book on the subject of the little black dress (or LBD). Chanel may have created the original LBD, but Audrey gave it her own style in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Didier Ludot sells vintage haute couture—check to see if there is anything by Givenchy you can try on. 

At the very end of the colonnade is 11. The Comédie Française, where the bad guy in Charade gets his comeuppance.   

This is a good place to end the walk or to stop for coffee or a drink. But if you are a diehard Audrey Hepburn fan, you can also explore: 

12. Le Cochon à l’Oreille, 15, rue Montmartre, 1er: this isthe restaurant in which Walter Matthau and Audreyhave a serious talk in Charade. (Metro: Etienne Marcel)

13. Hotel Maxim, 28, rue Censier, 5e: Cary Grant andAudrey spend time here in Charade (it is called theHôtel St‐Jacques in the film). Several scenes werefilmed in this Left Bank neighbourhood. (Metro:Censier‐Daubenton)

14. Musée Cernuschi, 7, avenue Vélasquez, 8e: this is theemptied‐out home to which Audrey returns at thebeginning of Charade. (Metro: Monceau)

15. Musée Jacquemart‐André, 158, boulevard Haussmann,8e: the exterior played the part of the Musée Kléber‐Lafayette in How to Steal a Million; the interiors,however, were shot in a studio. (Metro: Miromesnil)

16. Palais de Chaillot, 35, avenue Raymond Poincaré, 16e:the Art Deco palace appears in Paris When It Sizzles.(Metro: Trocadéro)

17. Hotel Raphael, 17, avenue Kléber, 16e: Audrey usuallystayed in this hotel while filming in Paris. (Metro: Kléber)

And, of course, all those familiar sights from Funny Face: the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, the Winged Victory in the Louvre, the Opéra, the Pont des Arts . . .  

Points of interest addresses: 

1. Givenchy headquarters, 3, avenue George V, 8e

2. No. 2, avenue Montaigne, 8e

3. Christian Dior, 30, avenue Montaigne, 8e

4. No. 3, avenue de Matignon, 8e

5. Stamp market, near avenue Gabriel, 8e

6. American Embassy, 2, avenue Gabriel, 8e

7. Maxim’s, 3, rue Royale, 8e

8. Ritz Hotel, 15, Place Vendôme, 1er

9. Palais Royal, 1er

10. Didier Ludot boutique, Palais Royal, 1er

11. Comédie Française, 1, Place Colette, 1er

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Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille

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Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille cont’d

1. Métro St. Paul – starting point

2. 16, rue Pavée – K. Jacques

3. 3, rue des Rosiers at rue Pavée – Zadig & Voltaire

4. 3, rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Théière

5. 3 bis, rue des Rosiers – Annick Goutal

6. 7, rue des Rosiers – Custo

7. 34, rue des Rosiers – L’As du Fallafel

8. 2, rue des Hospitalières St.-Gervais – Chez Marianne

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9. 47, rue des Francs Bourgeois- MUJI

10. 61, rue des Francs Bourgeois - Antoine & Lili

11. 34, rue des Francs Bourgeois - L'Artisan Parfumeur

12. 56-58, rue Vieille du Temple - Paul and Joe Sister

13. 75, rue Vieille du Temple - Manoush

14. 68, rue Vieille du Temple - Jamin Puech

15. 38, rue des Francs Bourgeois - Centre Culturel Suisse

16. 43, rue des Francs Bourgeois - Barbara Bui

17. 41-43, rue des Francs Bourgeois - Les Petites

18. 33, rue des Francs Bourgeois - Comptoir des Cotonniers

19. 1-3, rue Elzevir - Adolfo Dominguez

20. 22, rue des Francs Bourgeois - BA & SH

21. 20, rue des Francs Bourgeois - Chaise Longue

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Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille cont’d

29. 20, rue de Sévigné – Losco

30. 14, rue de Sévigné – Eric Bompard

31. 12, rue de Sévigné – Matière Première*

32. 40, rue de Sévigné – L’Eclaireur

33. 2, Place du Marché Ste. Catherine – Au Bistrot de la Place

34. 19, rue de Turenne – Argenterie de Turenne*

35. 17, rue de Turenne – Baby Beluga

36. 16, rue de Turenne – Anna Kaszer*

37. 18, rue de Turenne – Antik Batik

38. 22, rue de Turenne – Zadig & Voltaire

39. 24, rue de Turenne – Pain de Sucre

41. 36, rue de Turenne – Café Baci

40. 49, rue de Turenne – Café des Musées

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22. 23, rue de Sévigné – Musée Carnavalet

23. 5, rue de Thorigny – Musée Picasso

24. 23, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Satellite

25. 8, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Autour du Monde

26. 32, rue de Sévigné – Vialis*

27. 17, rue de Sévigné – Capharnaüm

28. 15, rue de Sévigné – Piment Café

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Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille cont’d

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42. 112, rue Vieille du Temple – APC

43. 125, rue Vieille du Temple – Abou d’Abi Bazar

44. 22, rue Debelleyme – V & J loungewear

45. 15, rue de Poitou – Shine

46. 24, rue de Poitou – Oxyde

47. 17, rue de Poitou – Avenches*

48. 22, rue de Poitou – Swildens*

49. 24, rue de Poitou – Native Kingdom*

50. 27, rue de Poitou – Violette & Léonie

51. 21, rue de Saintonge – Erik Linz

52. 25, rue de Saintonge – Blanc d’Ivoire

53. 29–31, rue de Poitou – Hôtel du Petit Moulin

54. 33, rue de Poitou – The Collection

55. 44, rue de Poitou – L’Habilleur

56. 25, rue Charlot – Jack Henry

57. 24, rue Charlot – Samy Chalon

58. 29, rue Charlot – Pring

59. 33 and 60, rue Charlot – AB33

60. 38, rue Charlot – Sylvie Arkoun*

61. 38, rue de Bretagne – Café Charlot*

62. 37, rue de Bretagne – Café du Marché

63. 39, rue de Bretagne – Marché des Enfants Rouges

64. 39, rue de Bretagne (within the marché) – L’Estaminet

* Sadly these locations have closed.

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Begin in the Bastille at 1. Métro St. Paul, in the 4th Arrondissement. Turn up rue Pavée, walking north. 2. K. Jacques at 16, rue Pavée, is a great stop if you are looking for those quintessential St. Tropez sandals that have been all the rage for the last several summers. K. Jacques has been making them by hand for the past 75 years. Find 3. Zadig & Voltaire on the corner of rue desRosiers and Pavée, for a young, hip yet not-too-expensive look. To the right on Rosiers you’ll find one of the best tea salons in Paris at 3, rue des Rosiers, 4. Le Loir dans la Théière, if you need a cup of tea for fuel or a little snack.

To the left now, continue walking down Rosiers, taking note of this very historic street. It is one of the oldest and most historic in Paris. It was and still is the center of Jewish life, with very trendy bou-tiques and cafés and the countless tourists who frequent the area. Some of the buildings here date back to the 1500s and earlier. 5. Annick Goutal is at 3 bis, rue des Rosiers (on your left), good for classic French perfumes with that lovely butterfly-topped bottle. After that you’ll find 6. Custo, the designer from Barcelona known for fun, trendy, col-orful shirts as well as other items for men and women, at 7, rue des Rosiers.

If you are hungry and don’t want to waste time with a sit-down meal, stop for a falafel at 7. L’As du Fallafel, at 34, rue des Rosiers (closed Satur-days). Turn right on rue des Hospitalières St.-Gervais for 8. Chez Marianne (if you prefer fa-lafel or meze sitting down, this is your stop). Far-ther down this street you’ll find 9. MUJI, the Japanese home and clothing store that always has something affordable, well designed and of inter-

est. The main entrance is around the corner on Francs Bourgeois.

At rue des Francs Bourgeois, turn right and head toward the Place des Vosges. There are great shops in both directions; to the left you’ll see 10. Antoine & Lili, at number 51, great for bright, colorful bohemian-style frocks made famous by Madonna (word has it she outfits her kids here), as well as Zadig & Voltaire, mentioned previously. To the right you’ll notice 11. L’Artisan Par-fumeur at number 34; stop to try on some scents.

Continue on to the right, heading toward the Place des Vosges. If you have time for a slight detour, turn up the road and follow rue Vieille du Temple north for a block. Within this block you’ll find 12. Paul and Joe Sister (part of the Paul and Joe empire), which is toujours chic and totally fabulous at 56–58, rue Vieille du Temple. Plus, you’ll find the very girly-girl shop 13. Manoush on the left, at 75, rue Vieille du Temple. At the end of the block, on the corner of rue Barbette (number 68), you’ll enjoy 14. Jamin Puech and their incredi-ble and unique bags.

Turn back around and head back down to rue des Francs Bourgeois and turn left, heading toward the Place des Vosges. 15. Centre Culturel Suisse, at 34, rue des Francs Bourgeois, is good for a stop if you need some culture. Exhibitions are free, and there is a lovely little terrace for tea in good weather. Farther down rue des Francs Bourgeois, at number 43, you’ll find 16. Bar-bara Bui, which is always a fashionable outpost. Pop into 17. Les Petites, at 41–43, rue des Francs Bourgeois, for a more basic yet still very fashionable look. You’ll also find 18. Comptoir des Cotonniers at number 33—a great spot for affordable, wearable everyday casual clothing.

This tour will take between two and five hours depending on how many shops you visit.

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Head up rue Elzevir if you’d like to stop into 19. Adolfo Dominguez, at numbers 1–3, for afford-able, unmistakably Spanish clothing, including cute doggie clothes (à la Paris Hilton). If you pick and choose carefully, you might find a good bargain. An-other worthy stop is 20. BA & SH, for midpriced, slightly bohemian frocks, at 22, rue des Francs Bourgeois. Check out 21. Chaise Longue at number 20 for a bit of folly if you are looking for a gift for a friend with a sense of humor.

Stop in for a break from shopping and a dose of cul-ture at 22. Musée Carnavalet (23, rue de Sévi-gné; 01 44 59 58 58). Chronicling the history of Paris is the purpose of Carnavalet, but its exquisite walled garden is what you’ll remember—plus, it’s free! 23. Musée Picasso, nearby at 5, rue de Thorigny, is divine and very doable in a short time frame (but at present is closed for renovations; check website first).

Farther down Francs Bourgeois, 24. Satellite does fun, affordable costume jewelry, which may be a bit colorful for some, at 23, rue des Francs Bour-geois. 25. Autour du Monde, at number 8 (corner of Sévigné), is one of our favorite stores in town, combining home and fashion—one can al-ways find something great here. Turn right on rue de Sévigné, where you’ll discover 26. Vialis* at number 32, with their reasonable leather walking shoes and heels from Spain (they are truly comfort-able—a real necessity in Paris).

27. Capharnaüm, at 17, rue de Sévigné, is aplace where teens and twentysomethings will find reason to splurge. 28. Piment Café is a hole-in-the-wall bar that we love, at number 15, and a great stop post-shop. 29. Losco, at 20, rue de Sévigné, is fun if you want to create your own belt. All you do is pick out the width and the type of leather and then fit it to the buckle of your choice. We’ve had a lot of fun in here. 30. Eric Bompard, at 14, rue de

Sévigné, has nice cashmere that isn’t terribly pricey (for cashmere, that is), and it’s well done. 31. Matière Première, at 12, rue de Sévi-gné, is one of those places where you can create your own jewelry with beads—a perfect afternoon activity if you are with a teen or a creative type. On the other end of Sévigné 32. L’Eclaireur has recently opened a cool new outpost at num-ber 40— this is one of the Girls’ Guide’s favorite shops in Paris. There are several more through-out the city. L’Eclaireur, owned by Martine and Armand Hadida, is always cutting edge, marrying fashion, furniture and design. Be prepared to pay for Dries Van Noten, Comme des Garçons and the like, but their eye is artistic, sexy and always au courant.

Now turn around and go back to rue de Jarente, south of Francs Bourgeois, just off of Sévigné. Turn left and quickly you’ll come to rue Caron, and if you turn right you’ll see the adorable Place du Marché Ste. Catherine. You can choose one of the cafés here for lunch. 33. Au Bistrot de la Place, at number 2 on the place, is fairly good for a salad or something light.

Now coming out of the place, go back to Jarente and follow it until it ends at rue de Turenne, where you’ll turn left. Here at number 19 you’ll find an old silver shop by the name of 34. Ar-genterie de Turenne* — pop in if you are in the market for silver. After this shop, on the same side of the street you’ll see two darling baby shops, if you need a gift. One has no name, and the other, at number 17, is called 35. Baby Be-luga, perfect for that terribly chic, hip baby in your life. You can find interesting canvas bags at 16, rue de Turenne, in 36. Anna Kaszer. And then you’ll see 37. Antik Batik at number 18, the famous bohemian fashion stop and a peren-nial favorite. You can probably find this store at home, however. Then you’ll find another 38. Zadig & Voltaire at 22, rue de Turenne, if you

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didn’t stop before. Here, turn down Francs Bourgeois again if you’d like to peek in at the oldest and loveliest square in Paris, the Place des Vosges, turn right. Con-tinuing now back up Turenne, you’ll see 39. Pain de Sucre, which offers some nice bathing suits and lingerie that isn’t too wild or ridiculously expen-sive. If you haven’t eaten yet and you didn’t stop at Place Catherine, you can nourish yourself now at 41. Café Baci, at 36, or 40. Café desMusées, at 49, rue de Turenne. After that the sur-roundings get a bit pedestrian, but never fear, you are hoofing it to the haute Marais, which is quieter and our favorite part. The upper Marais is filled with extremely original small shops and designers. Turn left when you reach rue Debelleyme, and stay to the right as the road forks, making sure to stay on Debelleyme. At corner of Vieille du Temple, you’ve got 42. APC at number 112, rue Vieille du Temple—pop in for perfect jeans and other must-haves. Turn right on Vieille du Temple and you’ll find 43. Abou d’Abi Bazar, at 125, rue Vieille du Temple, with their simple, elegant clothing. Turn here on rue de Poitou. You’ll find a fabulous sleep- and loungewear store called 44. V & J lounge-wear at 22, rue Debelleyme (on the corner of Poi-tou). Nearby 45. Shine, at 15, rue de Poitou, of-fers a nice mix of name designers. 46. Oxyde, at 24, rue de Poitou, has fresh, casual style, and 47. Avenches*, at number 17, has very interesting one-of-a-kind jewelry. 48. Swildens*, at number 22, is a shop specializing in a very downtown look. À la Carte has fabulous necklaces with vintage watches. 49. Native Kingdom* was another spectacular kidswear shop (unfortunately now closed). 50. Violette & Léonie, at number 27, sells killer vintage clothing, shoes and jewelry. We love rue de Poitou!

Continue down the road, turning right on rue de Saintonge. Here at number 21 you’ll find designer 51. Erik Linz’s creations, which are beautiful,

unique and handmade. 52. Blanc d’Ivoire, at 25, rue de Saintonge, is the perfect place to outfit the French home, or the American one! We like their candlesticks, their silver globes and their luxurious comforters. Back down on Poitou, have a look into Christian Lacroix’s hotel, 53. Hôtel du Petit Moulin, at 29–31, rue de Poi-tou, which is très chic and unique. Farther down, 54. the Collection, at number 33, offers themost interesting wallpaper we’ve ever seen—truly worth lugging back. 55. L’Habilleur, at number 44, is good if you’d like to browse a mix of designers (Paul and Joe, Michel Klein) or items with a Moroccan touch.

Turning right on rue Charlot, you’ll find 56. Jack Henry at number 25, with spiffy English-style clothing by an American designer. 57. Samy Chalon, at number 24, has colorful and well-designed dresses and other pieces. 58. Pring, at 29, rue Charlot, has wildly over-the-top shoes. 59. AB33, at numbers 33 and 60, is a very understated fashion outpost with an LA feel. Simple, elegant jewelry with a modern bent can be found online at 60. Sylvie Arkoun*. Once you reach the corner of Charlot and rue de Bretagne, top off your marathon day of shopping with a drink at 61. Café Charlot*, 38, rue de Bretagne, or 62. Café du Marché, 37, rue de Bretagne, and watch the afternoon/evening crowd walk by. Alternatively, go into the ever-adorable 63. Marché des Enfants Rouges, which is across the street from the cafés (open late on Thursday nights), and have a mint tea and some Moroccan sweets at one of their outdoor tables. We also love 64. L’Esta-minet, within the marché at 39, rue de Bre-tagne. Divine! At the end of your long shopping tour of the Marais treat yourself to a taxi back home or continue on rue Bretagne heading east, turn left at rue Filles du Calvaire to find the metro stop of the same name.

* Sadly these locations have closed.

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Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille cont’d

Points of Interest Addresses 1. Métro St. Paul – starting point

2. 16, rue Pavée – K. Jacques

3. 3, rue des Rosiers at rue Pavée – Zadig & Voltaire

4. 3, rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Théière

5. 3 bis, rue des Rosiers – Annick Goutal

6. 7, rue des Rosiers – Custo

7. 34, rue des Rosiers – L’As du Fallafel

8. 2, rue des Hospitalières St.-Gervais – Chez Marianne

9. 47, rue des Francs Bourgeois – MUJI

10. 51, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Antoine & Lili

11. 34, rue des Francs Bourgeois – L’Artisan Parfumeur

12. 56–58, rue Vieille du Temple – Paul and Joe Sister

13. 75, rue Vieille du Temple – Manoush

14. 68, rue Vieille du Temple – Jamin Puech

15. 34, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Centre Culturel Suisse

16. 43, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Barbara Bui

17. 41–43, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Les Petites

18. 33, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Comptoir des Cotonniers

19. 1–3, rue Elzevir – Adolfo Dominguez

20. 22, rue des Francs Bourgeois – BA & SH

21. 20, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Chaise Longue

22. 23, rue de Sévigné – Musée Carnavalet

23. 5, rue de Thorigny – Musée Picasso

24. 23, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Satellite

25. 8, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Autour du Monde

26. 17, rue de Sévigné – Capharnaüm*

27. 15, rue de Sévigné – Piment Café

28. 20, rue de Sévigné – Losco

29. 14, rue de Sévigné – Eric Bompard

30. 12, rue de Sévigné – Matière Première

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31. 40, rue de Sévigné – L’Eclaireur

32. 2, Place du Marché Ste. Catherine – Au Bistrotde la Place

33. 19, rue de Turenne – Argenterie de Turenne

34. 17, rue de Turenne – Baby Beluga*

35. 16, rue de Turenne – Anna Kaszer

36. 18, rue de Turenne – Antik Batik

37. 22, rue de Turenne – Zadig & Voltaire

38. 24, rue de Turenne – Pain de Sucre

39. 49, rue de Turenne – Café des Musées

40. 36, rue de Turenne – Café Baci

41. 112, rue Vieille du Temple – APC

42. 125, rue Vieille du Temple – Abou d’Abi Bazar

43. 22, rue Debelleyme – V & J loungewear

44. 15, rue de Poitou – Shine

45. 24, rue de Poitou – Oxyde

46. 17, rue de Poitou – Avenches

47. 22, rue de Poitou – Swildens*

48. 24, rue de Poitou – Native Kingdom*

49. 27, rue de Poitou – Violette & Léonie*

50. 21, rue de Saintonge – Erik Linz

51. 25, rue de Saintonge – Blanc d’Ivoire

52. 29–31, rue de Poitou – Hôtel du Petit Moulin

53. 33, rue de Poitou – The Collection

54. 44, rue de Poitou – L’Habilleur

55. 25, rue Charlot – Jack Henry

56. 24, rue Charlot – Samy Chalon

57. 29, rue Charlot – Pring

58. 33 and 60, rue Charlot – AB33

59. 38, rue Charlot – Sylvie Arkoun*

60. 38, rue de Bretagne – Café Charlot*

61. 37, rue de Bretagne – Café du Marché*

62. 39, rue de Bretagne – Marché des Enfants Rouges

63. 39, rue de Bretagne (within the marché) – L’Estaminet

* Sadly these locations have closed.

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Shopping with Jackie Kennedy in Paris: A Walk through the Aristocratic 16th Arrondissement

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Shopping with Jackie Kennedy in Paris: A Walk through the Aristocratic 16th Arrondissement

1. Metro Jasmin, line 9 – starting point

2. 78, avenue Mozart, Jackie’s home in Paris 1949–50

3. Lycée Molière, 71, rue du Ranelagh

4. Alain Ducasse’s cooking school, 64, rue du Ranelagh

5. La Gare restaurant and bar, 19, chausée de la Muette

6. Jardin du Ranelagh, avenue du Ranelagh

7. Musée Marmottan, 2, rue Louis Boilly

1 

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Shopping with Jackie Kennedy in Paris: A Walk through the Aristocratic 16th Arrondissement

8. Franck et Fils, 80, rue de Passy

9. Passy covered market, 1, rue Bois le Vent

10. Rue de l’Annonciation pedestrian market street

11. Maison de Balzac, 47, rue Raynouard

12. Rue Berton

13. Musée du Vin, 5, square Charles Dickens

14. Palais de Chaillot, 35, avenue Raymond Poincaré

15. Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, 1, Place du Trocadéro

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Shopping with Jackie Kennedy in Paris: A Walk through the Aristocratic 16th Arrondissement  

In 1949–50, during her junior year abroad, Jacqueline Bouvier lived in this area, which is known as Passy, while she attended classes at the Sorbonne. She later described this year as “the high point in my life, my happiest and most carefree year.” 

The walk takes you through some of the streets she would have known and ends at the Palais de Chaillot, where in 1961, during a presidential state visit, John F. Kennedy described himself to a room full of journalists as “the man who accompanied Jackie Kennedy to Paris.” The walk includes a chic shopping area that Jackie pat‐ronized when she was married to Aristotle Onassis, who maintained an apartment in Paris. 

The walk takes about two hours from start to finish, but longer if you stop to shop, eat or visit one of the museums on the route.  There are many good picnic spots as well as dozens of cafés and restaurants. 

Begin at 1. metro Jasmin. Take the rue Jasmin exit, which comes out in front of 2. 78, avenue Mozart. Jacqueline Bouvier lived in this building when she was a student at the Sorbonne, 1949–50. She lodged with the widowed Comtesse de Renty and her family in a large apartment, with several other students. There was no central heating, and the eight occupants of the apartment shared a single bathroom. During the winter, Jackie slept with her coat over her for warmth. 

Walk up avenue Mozart, keeping No. 78 on your left. Cross the road and turn right into rue de l’Assomption (Napoleon and Josephine once lived on this street) and then left into rue Davioud, a narrow, cobbled road. Turn right into rue du Ranelagh.  

On your right you will see 3. Lycée Molière, 71, rue du Ranelagh, where actresses Charlotte Gainsbourg and Marion Cotillard attended school, and where Simone de Beauvoir taught until she was fired in 1939 for having an affair with a female student. 

Opposite the school at No. 64, rue du Ranelagh, is 4. Alain Ducasse’s cooking school. Ducasse, born in1956, was not a contemporary of Jackie’s, but his style of using fresh, seasonal products is the same as that of René Verdon, whom Jackie hired as White House chef in 1961. (She was the first presidential wife to hire a professional chef, and she conducted Verdon’s interview in French.) Ducasse’s school is on the ground floor at the back and has a small boutique. Courses are open to all, and gift certificates are available. Instruction is in French, but a translator can be arranged if you give the school advance notice (www.ecolecuisine‐alainducasse.com/). 

Rue du Ranelagh goes all the way down to the river, where it runs into—appropriately enough—the Avenue du Président Kennedy. If you are a true‐blue Jackie fan, you may want to follow it as far as No. 10, once the site of a literary salon patronized by a friend of Jackie’s, the writer and politician André Malraux. Through her friendship with Malraux, Jackie arranged for the Mona Lisa to be sent to the United States in 1963. 

Go back up rue du Ranelagh (away from the river) and turn into rue Gustave Zédé opposite the Lycée, left on rue du Général Aubé and right again at rue Pajou. The streets are climbing uphill—this part of the city was once the site of huge mansions with gardens sloping down to the Seine. Many of the ornate buildings that now occupy this area date from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. 

Turn left on rue des Vignes (recalling a time when grapevines grew here), and cross avenue Mozart. Con‐tinue on rue Largillière, which opens into a large space where several roads converge. To your left is 5. La Gare, a popular restaurant, built into a former station on the railway known as La Petite Ceinture (the little belt), a line that once ran around the circumference of the city (www.restaurantlagare.com).  

If you turn left as you come out of La Gare and walk down Chausée de la Muette, you will enter   6. Jardin du Ranelagh. In the 18th century, public ballswere held here and Parisians from all walks of life came to dance. If you have children with you, the garden of‐fers a range of amusements and places to play, and you will get no further.  

If you continue on the same road to the other side of the gardens and cross avenue Raphaël, you will see  7. Musée Marmottan (www.marmottan.com) at2, rue Louis Boilly.  It is devoted to Impressionist art. When Jackie lived in the 16th, this was a museum of Second Empire decorative arts. Its focus changed in 1957, with a donation of Impressionist masterpieces, a focus consolidated with a further donation of Monet’s art by his son in 1966. If you are an art lover, you may want to visit the museum.  

But if you want to do some serious shopping, continue the walk. Cross the road directly in front of La Gare and take Chaussée de la Muette, which becomes rue de Passy, the main shopping street of the Passy area. Look for the yellow signs on the left at No. 80. This is 8. Franck et Fils (www.francketfils.fr). The store opened at this location in 1937. Today, it’s a scaled‐down version of Le Bon Marché (both stores are owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis 

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Vuitton). There are three floors of fashion and a pleasant café on the top floor. Not only did Jackie shop here occasionally, but the store features the fashion line known as Paule Ka, whose designer takes his inspiration from Jackie (as well as Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly). 

Rue de Passy features boutiques from many of the ma‐jor fashion brands. Look for the elements of Jackie’s classic style: either the pearls and the boxy suits of the White House years or the oversized sunglasses, slim white pants and dark skinny tops of the Jackie O years. 

At Place de Passy, the road opens into a little area with trees. Turn right and you will see 9. Passy covered mar‐ket, at 1, rue Bois le Vent (foodies take note: the chefs at the Ducasse school shop here), and 10. rue de l’Annonciation pedestrian street market.  

Take the rue de l’Annonciation, which is closed to cars and has many open‐air cafés. On the left is the Passy Plaza (where you can buy food for a picnic) and a little church. Continue to rue Raynouard. Turn right into this street and at No. 47 you will see the entrance to 11. Maison de Balzac (www.paris.org/Musees/Balzac/). Honoré de Balzac lived here in the 1840s. The gardens are open to all, and this is a good picnic spot.  

Balzac’s house reminds us that Jackie earned her degree in French literature (her favorite writer, however, was Bau‐delaire). She may have read Balzac’s “Treatise on Elegant Living,” in which he says, “Anyone who does not visit Paris frequently will never be completely elegant.” Words to live by, and it seems that Jackie did live by them! 

Continue past Balzac’s house on rue Raynouard, and look for the steps going down on the left. Take them and turn left into 12. rue Berton. This charming cobbled street feels like a country road in the middle of the city. As you go on, it gets narrower and narrower, until it opens into rue Marcel Proust.  

Bear left. Take the stairs down on the right into another garden. From the bottom of the stairs, the exit is to the left, through a large square archway. Walk straight through and cross the road into Impasse Marie de Ré‐gnier. The gate through the traffic barrier at the end of the street takes you into rue Charles Dickens. Walk to the end and turn left, where you will see 13. Musée du Vin (Museum of Wine, www.museeduvinparis.com/en).  In addition to the museum, there is a boutique and a restaurant, in a series of low, arched caves. The muse‐um is educational, but the restaurant food is good. Whether or not you visit the museum depends on your answer to the question: Do you want to understand wine, or simply experience it? 

Directly in front of the museum is rue des Eaux. Walk down it and turn left into Square Alboni. Overhead is the bridge that brings trains into the Passy metro sta‐

tion. If you are feeling energetic, take the stairs that lead up to the left before the bridge. If you are tired, walk under the bridge and, voilà, there is an escalator to take you up the hill. This takes you to rue de l’Alboni. Walk up to the traffic circle and turn right into the tree‐shaded boulevard Delessert. Notice the old walls on the left, with filled‐in arches. 

Where boulevard Delessert and rue le Nôtre meet, you will see the gardens of 14. Palais de Chaillot, the site of John F. Kennedy’s speech in 1961. You can take the steps on the left, which lead to a path that comes out near a statue of Benjamin Franklin, or you can just walk into the gardens and head uphill to the main building with its museums and restaurants.  

15. Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine(http://www.citechaillot.fr/) has an excellent café with a splendid view of the Eiffel Tower.  Rest your feet and toast the memory of Jackie. 

Points of interest addresses: 1. Begin at metro Jasmin, line 9.

2. 78, avenue Mozart, Jackie’s home in Paris, 1949–50

3. Lycée Molière, 71, rue du Ranelagh

4. Alain Ducasse’s cooking school, 64, rue du Ranelagh

5. La Gare restaurant and bar, 19, chausée de la

Muette

6. Jardin du Ranelagh, avenue du Ranelagh

7. Musée Marmottan, 2, rue Louis Boilly

8. Franck et Fils, 80, rue de Passy

9. Passy covered market, 1, rue Bois le Vent

10. Rue de l’Annonciation pedestrian market street

11. Maison de Balzac, 47, rue Raynouard

12. Rue Berton

13. Musée du Vin, 5, square Charles Dickens

14. Palais de Chaillot, 35, Avenue Raymond Poincaré

15. Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, 1, Place

Trocadéro

If you want to do more shopping, Jackie‐style, go to the 8th Arrondissement (metro Franklin Roosevelt on line 1) and visit: 

Chanel, 42, avenue Montaigne: Chanel was the inventor of the little boxy suits Jackie favored as First Lady and one of Jackie’s favorite designers. 

D. Porthault, 50, avenue Montaigne: Jackie bought the linens for the White House here. 

Givenchy, 3, avenue George V: Givenchy supplied the evening gown Jackie wore at Versailles in 1961. 

Emilio Pucci, 36, avenue Montaigne: Pucci was one of her favorite designers during the Jackie O years. 

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1 1

Stroll along the Rue du Cherche-Midi

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2

Stroll along the Rue du Cherche-Midi cont’d

1. 22 Cherche-Midi – Le Cherche Midi

2. 50 Cherche-Midi – Au Nom de la Rose

3. 51 Cherche-Midi – Nemrod Café

4. 57 Cherche-Midi – Autour du Monde

5. 66 Cherche-Midi – Mamie Gateaux (for cakes and tea)

6. 67 Cherche-Midi – M.A. Dauliac Antique

2

7. 104 Cherche-Midi – Le Bistrot Landais

8. 24 rue Mayet – Tea and Tattered Pages

9. 17 rue Mayet – Hammam Pacha

10. 4 rue Mayet – Maison de Fanfan

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2

Stroll along the Rue du Cherche-Midi cont’d

Start at rue Cherche Midi and rue Dupin. The closest metro stop is Rennes on the corner of Blvd Raspail and Rennes. Walk north on Raspail and turn left on Cherche Midi until you get to rue Dupin. Its worth noting that if you turn right on Cherche Midi you’ll come to 1. Le Cherche Midi at number 22 (01 45 48 27 44). It has the most delicious antipasto we’ve ever had outside of Italy, but reservations must be made in ad-vance, so come back another day once you re-serve. One of the Girls’ Guide’s favorite Italian restaurants is on this street, the eponymously named 2. Au Nom de la Rose at 50 is worth noticing even though it’s a chain. It’s a unique flower shop selling only roses. Consider this your welcome to the beautiful rue Cherche Midi. All addresses are on Cherche-Midi except where noted.

3. The Nemrod Café at 51 is a typical Pari-sian brasserie for a bite or a coffee. 4. Autour du Monde, a chain with shops all over Paris, has an outpost at 57 selling wearable, reasona-bly priced stylish clothing.

5. Mamie Gâteaux at 66 rue du Cherche-Midi is a charming tea salon plus they have a boutique and a brocante (antiques) shop!

6. M.A. Dauliac at 67 is good for antiquesand vintage art as well as art deco objects. Now take a good stroll down the rue until you reach until you reach the cross street rue St. Romain. Note 7. Le Bistrot Landais at 104 rue du Cherche-Midi (01 42 22 66 23) is a good place to duck in for some hearty Landais food, think duck, foie gras and pâté. Further down after a couple of blocks, turn right on rue Mayet, at 24, is the used English bookshop 8. Tea and

Tattered Pages (01 40 65 94 35) where you can pick up a cheap read and enjoy a cup of tea.

In the same area you’ll find the newly finished 9. Hammam Pacha at 17 rue Mayet (01 4306 55 55). Mayet is a street off rue du Cher-che-Midi just before you reach Blvd Montpar-nasse. Why not book an afternoon to relax in the sauna, ending in a four-hand massage?

Also on the same street you’ll find 10. Maison de Fanfan, which is a very good consignment shop specializing in smaller sizes. Near the tea salon there are several different stores all under the banner Chercheminippes, each specializing in consignment clothing for men, women and children, all located on rue du Cherche-Midi. See if you can find a deal.

Follow Mayet to the end, turn left on rue de Sèvres and follow for a long block until you get to the Duroc metro stop.

A good street for an hour-long shop-and-stroll, or longer.

3

Points of Interest Addresses

1. 22 Cherche-Midi – Le Cherche Midi

2. 50 Cherche-Midi – Au Nom de la Rose

3. 51 Cherche-Midi – Nemrod Café

4. 57 Cherche-Midi – Autour du Monde

5. 66 Cherche-Midi – Mamie Gateaux(for cakes and tea)

6. 67 Cherche-Midi – M.A. Dauliac Antique

7. 104 Cherche-Midi – Le Bistrot Landais

8. 24 rue Mayet – Tea and Tattered Pages

9. 17 rue Mayet – Hammam Pacha

10. 4 rue Mayet – Maison de Fanfan

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Shop Rue St. Dominique andGrenelle in the 7th

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Shop Rue St. Dominique andGrenelle in the 7th cont’d

1. 145 rue St. Dominique – Comptoirs Richard

2. 120 rue St. Dominique – Grégory Renard’s

3. 129 rue St. Dominique – Le Fontaine de Mars

3b. 139 rue St. Dominique –Café Constant

4. 135 rue St. Dominique – Les Cocottes

5. 108 rue St. Dominique – L’Esprit du Sud-Ouest

6. 114 rue St. Dominique – 7 Famille

7. Corner of St. Dominique and rue Sedillot – a pharmacy

8. 115 rue St. Dominique – Les Petites

9. 92 rue St. Dominique – St. Pierre du Gros Caillou

10. Rue Cler market street (see also stop #32)

11. 108 rue St. Dominique – Venise Collection

12. 106 rue St. Dominique – Jacadi

13. 37 rue Malar – Truffes Folies & Lucie St. Claire

14. 99 rue St. Dominique – Bar du Central

15. 78 rue St. Dominique – Gerard Darel*

16. 78 rue St. Dominique – Comptoir dse Cotonniers

17. 91 rue St. Dominique – Bérénice

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3

Shop Rue St. Dominique andGrenelle in the 7th cont’d

3

18. 89 rue St. Dominique - Kooples

19. 74 rue St. Dominique – Lemoine

20. 22 rue Jean-Nicot – Eric Chauvin

21. 20 rue Jean-Nicot – Stéphane Secco

22. 18 rue Jean-Nicot – Bellota-Bellota

23. 68 rue St. Dominique – Karl Marc

24. 81 rue St. Dominique – The Tome Dom

25. 81 rue St. Dominique – BA&SH

26. 10 rue de la Cométe - Bonsaï Rémy Samson

27. 21 bis, rue Amélie – Catherine Loiret

28. 20 bis, rue Amélie – Mayaro

29. 17 bis, rue Amélie – 7 Eiffel

30. 151 rue de Grenelle – exquisite door handles

31. 155 rue de Grenelle – Numaé

32. Rue Cler market street (see also stop #10)

33. 186 rue de Grenelle – Petit Bateau

34. 194 rue de Grenelle – The Real McCoy

35. 43 avenue Bosquet – La Palferine

36. 29 avenue Rapp – gorgeous Art Nouveau building

37. 22 avenue Rapp - Sancerre

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Shop Rue St. Dominique andGrenelle in the 7th cont’d

Rue St. Dominique

1. Comptoirs Richard at 145 rue St. Domi-nique (01 53 59 99 18) is a well stocked tea and coffee store where you can find some nice gifts such as Eiffel Tower espresso cups, colored sugars and Paris cardboard keepsake boxes (there are several other locations in Paris).

2. Grégory Renard’s shop, at 120, rue St.-Dominique, is worth a stop for world-class artisanal chocolates and macarons.

Rue St. Dominique has one of our favorite bistros in Paris, 3. La Fontaine de Mars at 129 rue St. Dominique (01 47 05 46 44). This is the classic red-tableclothed bistro serving a good Confit de Canard (crispy duck leg) and boasting friendly service. Out of certain windows here you can see the Eiffel Tower sparkle at night. President Obama has dined here.

In general, Chef Christian Constant owns this area, boasting not 1 but 4 restaurants. We like the more relaxed 3b. Café Constant at 139 rue St. Domi-nique (01 47 53 73 34) or 4. Les Cocottes at 135 rue St. Dominique (no reservations required at Les Cocottes).

Across from Les Cocottes at No. 108 is 5. L’Esprit du Sud-Ouest, which would be a good place to stop if you have a rugby fan in the family. 6. 7 Famille, at 114, rue St.-Dominique (01 45 51 73 25), is a small shop that has some nice gifts, particularly for teenage girls, and a few pieces of clothing. We like its selection of Swildens tees.

7. The pharmacy near the corner of St.-Dominique and rue Sedillot is a good place to stock up on Darphin creams or La Roche-Posay sunscreen. 8. Les Petites, at 115, rue St.-Dominique, is wonderful for colorful prints and cashmeres. Note the 9. St. Pierre du Gros Caillou church, at No. 92, which was built in the 1800s, and whose chapel was built in the 1700s. Not particularly old by Parisian standards, but a charming neighborhood church nonetheless. Not usually open to the public.

You can turn down rue Cler and head south if you wish, walking a block to get to the 10. Rue Cler market street, or wait until later so you can pick up some fresh picnic ingredients or appetiz-ers on the way home. 11. Venise Collection, at No. 109, rue St. Dominique, is a shoe store that sells a well-selected assortment of heels and flats by Sonia Rykiel, Givenchy and Chloe. 12. Jacadi, the renowned children’s fashion store, is at No. 107. 13. Truffes Folies is an épicerie and restaurant located just off rue St.-Dominique at 37, rue Malar (01 44 18 05 41). If you are a truf-fle fan, this is an essential stop.

14. Bar du Central, at 99, rue St.-Dominique,is a good place stop for un verre or a coffee.

15. Gerard Darel, at No. 78, is a solid Frenchbrand with fashionable finds often available in lar-ger sizes, which is completely abnormal in Paris. A favorite of Susan Sarandon and Meryl Streep since 1973.

This stroll can be done in just one hour or more depending on how much you stop.

Begin at rue St.-Dominique where it inter-sects with avenue de la Bourdonnais and avenue Rapp several blocks up from the metro stop École Militaire. Go over the tour first, before you set out, and think about reserving ahead for lunch or dinner at one of the many fine restaurants we suggest. This is a wonderful afternoon tour after seeing the Eiffel Tower in the morning.

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Shop Rue St. Dominique andGrenelle in the 7th cont’d

One of our favorite stores in Paris is at 78 rue St. Dominique, 16. Comptoir des Cotonniers, for affordable chic Parisian looks. The always chic 17. Bérénice, at number 91, is a fashion find.18. Kooples is a trendy brand at 89, rue St.-Dominique, where you can find younger “downtown” looks often in black, white or gray. 19. Lemoine, at No. 74, is a cute little chocolate, nou-gat and macaron shop, in case you haven’t in-dulged yet. It’s known for its cannelés, which are tiny cakes from the Bordeaux region.

Now, turn up rue Jean Nicot for several special stores. At 22 rue Jean-Nicot (01 45 50 43 54), you’ll find one of the great florists in a town full of florists, 20. Eric Chauvin. Next door, 21. Sté-phane Secco, whose pain au chocolat was voted the best in Paris, can be found at 20 rue Jean-Nicot (01 43 17 35 20). The shop is worth a look even if you aren’t hungry.

22. Bellota-Bellota, at 18, rue Jean Nicot, isjamón (ham) heaven and a sublime little Spanish épicerie and café—if you feel a little Basque com-ing on, stop in here. Return to rue St.-Dominique and turn left.

23. Karl Marc, at 68, rue St.-Dominique, is alovely new designer on the rue. 24. The Tome Dom bookstore, at No. 81, is good for books about Paris and travel, and for cookbooks and comics. Check out 25. BA&SH, at No. 81, for affordably chic fashion. Turn right on rue de la Comète and head toward rue de Grenelle.

Rue de Grenelle

At 10, rue de la Comète, you’ll notice a little bonsai store that you should enter. Not only does 26. Bonsaï Rémy Samson have impressive bonsai and lovely gardening books, but in the back garden you’ll find a small paradise of Japanese Zen plant-ings. An oasis of calm beauty.

5

Note the beautiful Beaux Arts and Art Nouveau architecture of some of the buildings on rue de Grenelle as you enter this street and make a right.

Take your first right off rue de Grenelle and turn right back up rue Amélie to check out the hand-made-leather purse store, 27. Catherine Loiret, at 21 bis, rue Amélie. These ingenious designs are right for any fashion maven (09 53 65 10 40). As long as you are on rue Amélie, you might want to pop into No. 20, 28. Ma-yaro, which has some interesting items for the French home. On this same street is a new, very modern hotel, which has reasonable rates be-ginning at 165 euros, for your return trip to Paris: 29. 7 Eiffel, at 17 bis, rue Amélie (01 45 55 1001).

Return to rue de Grenelle and turn right. Notice the 30. exquisite door handles at No. 151, from the Art Nouveau era. The corn-and-lizard handles warrant a photo. Continue on down the rue until you reach No. 155, where you’ll find 31. Numaé for adorable baby clothes if you have an infant to buy for (01 47 05 16 96).

When you reach rue Cler, you might want to turn to your left and peruse this lovely 32. market street. Selections here are good for picnics or making a meal in your rented apartment. 33. Petit Bateau, which you can find in the US, is at the corner of rue de Grenelle and rue Cler, at 186, rue de Grenelle, if you need to stock up on the T-shirts that everyone loves and kids’ pj’s.

If you must have your American food fix (think Pop-Tarts), go to 34. The Real McCoy store and restaurant at 194 rue de Grenelle (01 45 56 98 62).

As you reach avenue Bosquet, turn right. Here you will find 35. La Palferine, at No. 43,

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Shop Rue St. Dominique andGrenelle in the 7th cont’d

which is an antiques shop that’s worth walking into.

Turn around and head south to return to the metro stop Ecole Militaire. If you still have some energy, you can end your day on avenue Rapp. Return to St. Dominique and turn left toward Ave de la Boudon-nais and turn right when you reach avenue Rapp.

Notice the gorgeous Art Nouveau building at 36. 29, avenue Rapp, which is across from 37. San-cerre, at No. 22 (01 45 51 75 91), a solid wine bar where you can enjoy oysters and old-fashioned am-bience, and of course a glass of Sancerre.

Points of Interest Addresses

Rue St. Dominique

1. 145 rue St. Dominique – Comptoirs Richard

2. 120 rue St. Dominique – Grégory Renard’s

3. 129 rue St. Dominique – Le Fontaine de Mars

3b. 139 rue St. Dominique –Café Constant

4. 135 rue St. Dominique – Les Cocottes

5. 108 rue St. Dominique – L’Esprit du Sud-Ouest

6. 114 rue St. Dominique – 7 Famille

7. Corner of St. Dominique and rue Sedillot – a pharmacy

8. 115 rue St. Dominique – Les Petites

9. 92 rue St. Dominique – St. Pierre du Gros Caillou

10. Rue Cler market street

11. 109 rue St. Dominique – Venise Collection

12. 107 rue St. Dominique – Jacadi

13. 37 rue Malar – Truffes Folies

14. 99 rue St. Dominique – Bar du Central

15. 78 rue St. Dominique – Gerard Darel

16. 78 rue St. Dominique – Comptoir dse Cotonniers

17. 91 rue St. Dominique – Bérénice

18. 89 rue St. Dominique - Kooples

19. 74 rue St. Dominique – Lemoine

Grenelle, Jean Nicot, and Ave. Rapp

20. 22 rue Jean-Nicot – Eric Chauvin

21. 20 rue Jean-Nicot – Stéphane Secco

22. 18 rue Jean-Nicot – Bellota-Bellota

23. 68 rue St. Dominique – Karl Marc

24. 81 rue St. Dominique – The Tome Dom

25. 81 rue St. Dominique – BA&SH

26. 10 rue de la Cométe - Bonsaï Rémy Samson

27. 21 bis, rue Amélie – Catherine Loiret

28. 20 bis, rue Amélie – Mayaro

29. 17 bis, rue Amélie – 7 Eiffel

30. 151 rue de Grenelle – exquisite door handles

31. 155 rue de Grenelle – Numaé

32. Rue Cler market street

33. 186 rue de Grenelle – Petit Bateau

34. 194 rue de Grenelle – The Real McCoy

35. 43 avenue Bosquet – La Palferine

36. 29 avenue Rapp – gorgeous Art Nouveau building

37. 22 avenue Rapp - Sancerre

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Walk and Shop inSaint-Germain

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Walk and Shop inSaint-Germain

Cont.

1. Eglise Saint-Sulpice2. Café de la Mairie3. Annick Goutal4. Comptoir des Cotonniers5. The Kooples6. Hervé Chapelier7. Pierre Hermé8. Zadig et Voltaire9. Agnès B.10. V ilebrequin

11. Agnès B.12. Au V ieux Colombier13. V ictoire Homme14. Marcel Lassance15. Longchamp16. Théâtre du V ieux Colombier

17. Le Bon Marché

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Walk and Shop inSaint-Germain

Cont.

18. Camper19. Robert Clergerie20. Maje21. Gerbe22. Poilâne23. La Cuisine de Bar24. Metal Pointu’s25. Le Civette26. Lilith27. Cotélac28. Cécile et Jeanne29. N. V illaret30. Le Cherche Midi

31. Heimstone32. Puyricard33. Kamille34. Lutet ia37. La Maison du Chocolat38. Hermès39. Arnys40. IKKS41. Maje42. Mac Douglas43. Gérard Darel44. Losco

35. Le Bon Marché36. La Grande Epicerie

45. Manoush46. Repetto47. Tod’s48. COS49. Sonia Rykiel50. Borsalino51. Prada52. YSL53. Tara Jarmon

54. Sabbia Rosa55. Baby Buddha56. Vent ilo57. I ro58. Paul and Joe59. Y’s60. Barbara Bui61. Karry’O62. Maison Fabre

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Walk and Shop inSaint-Germain

Cont.

63. JC de Castelbajac64. Zef65. Sonia Rykiel66. Etro67. Ralph Lauren

68. Gérard Darel69. Façonnable70. L’Ecume des Pages71. Café de Flore72. Les Deux Magots73. Brasserie Lipp74. Eglise Saint-Germain75. Louis Vuit ton76. Assouline

77. Richart78. Ladurée79. Simrane80. Maison Rust ique81. Michèle Aragon82. Librairie Signature83. Michel Klein84. Pierre Frey

85. Eugène Delacroix86. Arty Dandy87. Jérôme Dreyfuss88. Ollivary89. Isabel Marant90. La Palette91. Galerie Documents

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Walk and Shop inSaint-Germain

Cont.

Start at the 1. Eglise Saint-Sulpice near the Saint-

Sulpice metro station. Construction of this church,

which replaced a 13th-century church, began in 1646

and was mostly complete a century later. As you en-

ter the church, on the right side you’ll see celebrated

frescoes by Eugène Delacroix. Be sure to turn on the

light to see them well. The church is also famous for

its organ, which was built in the late 18th century and

is one of the world’s largest. It has been played by

many renowned musicians. Light a candle in honor of

a loved one and get ready for a full day. If you need

sustenance, exit the church and turn to the right,

stopping for a coffee at 2. Café de la Mairie (8, Place Saint-Sulpice), which has chairs that face the historic

and famous Saint-Sulpice fountain, built in the center

of the square between 1844 and 1848 and designed

by the architect Louis Visconti, who also designed

Napoleon’s tomb. This is a popular café in the neigh-

borhood, and it has the best view.

There is something to see, do, eat, smell or buy in every

direction. You won’t be able to do it all, so it’s best not to

try. As you face the café, head to the left, walking toward

the Seine on rue Saint-Sulpice, and you’ll see 3. Annick Goutal (12, Place Saint-Sulpice), a perfume house

known for its butterly-capped bottles. These fragrances make wonderful gifts for friends or yourself. Immediately

after this shop you’ll ind 4. Comptoir des Cotonniers(12, Place Saint-Sulpice) on the corner of Place Saint-

Sulpice and rue Bonaparte, which has chic, affordable

cotton clothing. Across the street, on rue du Vieux Co-

lombier, is 5. The Kooples (74, rue Bonaparte), which

carries a young rock-and-roll look. Next door is 6. Hervé Chapelier (1 bis, rue du Vieux Colombier), famous for

its nylon bags. They fold up neatly, which makes them

easy to take home as gifts in your suitcase; they’re also

great to have on hand in case you do more shopping

today than you anticipated.

Before you continue down rue du Vieux Colombier,

take a right on rue Bonaparte. Three stores in on

the left is 7. Pierre Hermé’s irst shop in Paris (72,rue Bonaparte). Stand in line to get the famous

macarons or any of the other sweets. We adore the

rose-lavored macarons. This is one of the best-known patisseries in Paris.

Turn back and take a right on rue du Vieux Colom-

bier. Notice the two boutiques of 8. Zadig et Voltaire (1–3, rue du Vieux Colombier) on the left after

Hervé Chapelier. Z&V presents a style that is part

Malibu surfer, part rock and roll. The irst store is for women, and the second is for men. Across the street

is an 9. Agnès B. (6, rue du Vieux Colombier) boutique for women. This French designer gives us

a classic Parisian look and is affordably chic. At the

corner of rue du Vieux Colombier and rue Madame,

10. Vilebrequin (5, rue du Vieux Colombier) car-

ries cute French swimming trunks for men and boys.

Also nearby is an 11. Agnès B. shop for men (12, rue du Vieux Colombier), where you can always

ind great gifts to take home to the men in your life. A cute bistro for lunch either today or another time

is 12. Au Vieux Colombier (65, rue de Rennes), at the corner of rue du Vieux Colombier and rue de

Rennes, with lovely art deco decor and a classic Pa-

risian atmosphere. While the food won’t win awards,

the reasonably priced French bistro fare will keep

your pocketbook happy.

Cross rue de Rennes toward the André shoe store

(this is a discount store that we don’t think is worth

a stop) and continue north on rue du Vieux Colom-

bier, toward the Seine. Down the street you’ll see 13. Victoire Homme (15, rue du Vieux Colombier), a

wonderful men’s clothing store. Several doors down

is 14. Marcel Lassance (17, rue du Vieux Colom-bier), also excellent for menswear. Farther along is

Note: The Saint-Germain-des-Prés area is

chock-full of stores, shops and little cafés for

the ultimate Parisian day of walking and shop-

ping. Give yourself an entire afternoon to enjoy

this tour.

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Walk and Shop inSaint-Germain

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15. Longchamp (21, rue du Vieux Colombier), aclassic French label for handbags and luggage, and

beyond that is the 16. Théâtre du Vieux Colombier (21, rue du Vieux Colombier), one of the venues

where the Comédie Française performs. If you speak

French, buy tickets for a show.

As you come to the corner you’ll approach the Carre-

four de la Croix Rouge, with ive choices of direction. If you follow rue de Sèvres, you’ll come to 17. le Bon Marché (24, rue de Sèvres), which is the oldest

department store in Paris and one of the city’s best.

There is great shopping in each direction, but irst go down rue du Cherche Midi to the left.

On the corner you’ll see 18. Camper (25, rue du Vieux Colombier), a Spanish men’s and women’s

shoe company, with a particularly good selection

of comfortable shoes for men. Turn left on rue du

Cheche Midi. As you turn you’ll see a large half-man,

half-horse statue, named “Le Centaure,” created in

the 1980s by the French sculptor César.

There are many shops worth noting on rue du

Cherche Midi, the irst being 19. Robert Clergerie (5,rue du Cherche Midi), which carries elegant shoes.

Next is a stock store of 20. Maje (6, rue du Cherche Midi), which offers discounts on the brand’s well-

loved French designs. A good place to stock up on

hosiery is 21. Gerbe (4, rue du Cherche Midi), which

was established in 1904. Farther along on the right,

and probably the most famous place on this street,

is the boulangerie 22. Poilâne (8, rue du Cherche Midi). It is known for its hearty French country bread,

not baguettes. If you are ready for lunch, have a

quick bite at the Poilâne-owned 23. la Cuisine de Bar (8, rue du Cherche Midi), offering open toasted

sandwiches on Poilâne’s celebrated bread. Across

the street is 24. Metal Pointu’s (13, rue du Cherche Midi), which specializes in very funky silver jewel-

ry. For a more sophisticated style, try 25. le Civette (15, rue du Cherche Midi), or 26. Lilith (12, rue

du Cherche Midi) for a range of interesting artistic

designs. On the left, look for 27. Cotélac (17, rue du Cherche Midi) for men’s and women’s clothing.

At No. 19, look for the lovely bas-relief above the

Catherine André shop, which depicts a bearded man

and a cherub-like igure tracing a sundial, and is inscribed with the words “Je cherche midi.”

Step inside 28. Cécile et Jeanne* (16, rue du Cherche Midi) for inventive costume jewelry. For

sumptuous, terribly French curtains and fabric, go to

29. N. Villaret (20, rue du Cherche Midi). To enjoy

our favorite Italian restaurant in Paris, head to 30. le Cherche Midi (22, rue du Cherche Midi), where

reservations are essential. The 31. Heimstone (23, rue du Cherche Midi) boutique embodies a funky,

fun bohemian vibe. Farther down on the left, look

for 32. Puyricard (24, rue du Cherche Midi) for

scrumptious chocolates from Provence.

At the end of the street, take a right and you’ll see 33. Kamille (1, Place Alphonse Déville), a boutique

that carries avant-garde fashion. As you approach

boulevard Raspail, you’ll see the 34. Lutetia* (45, boulevard Raspail), a famous hotel and one of our

partners. This is a great place to return to for a glass

of champagne and oysters. Notice the plaque on

the side of the building before you reach the corner,

explaining that the Lutetia was used by the Nazis

during the occupation. While that’s not a charming

claim to fame, the Lutetia is still a wonderful place to

stay.

Here you can turn left if you are ready to tackle 35. le Bon Marché (24, rue de Sèvres), or you can save

the department store for a rainy day. It’s just past the

park on your right. There are two huge buildings; be

sure not to miss 36. la Grande Epicerie (38, rue de Sèvres), located in the second, where you can buy

all the ixings for the ultimate picnic.

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Cont.

If you take a right on rue de Sèvres, next to the

Lutetia you’ll ind 37. la Maison du Chocolat (19, ruede Sèvres). Next to that you’ll ind one of the new-

est 38. Hermès (17, rue de Sèvres) stores in Paris.

Wander in even if you don’t plan to buy, because the

architecture is amazing. There’s a terribly fancy place

for ladies who lunch to have a small bite inside, but

bring a well-stuffed wallet if you want to be among

them. Across the street is 39. Arnys (14, rue de Sèvres), a classic French gentlemen’s shop (very

expensive).

Continuing along, you’ll see 40. IKKS (12, rue de Sèvres), a chain that carries hip and affordable

clothing for men and women. Across the street is 41. Maje (15, rue de Sèvres), which carries new, trendy

designs. Also on this street, visit 42. Mac Douglas* (9, rue de Sèvres) for beautiful leather goods, and

43. Gérard Darel (12, rue de Sèvres), which carries

a more mature look and clothing for larger sizes.

Continue on rue de Sèvres and you’ll arrive back

at the “Centaure” statue. For a chance to design

your own belt, visit 44. Losco (5, rue de Sèvres), where you can pick out the type of leather and buck-

le you’d like to use. Now cross the street and go

down the next spoke of the star at the Carrefour du

Croix Rouge, and turn to go down rue de Grenelle.

As you circle around and pass rue du Four, you can

take a detour to check out the very feminine looks at

45. Manoush (52, rue du Four) and 46. Repetto (51,rue du Four), where you’ll ind those ballerina lats that are all the rage.

Once you reach rue de Grenelle, turn left and con-

tinue down the street, passing the shoe boutique 47. Tod’s (44–46, rue du Dragon) on the right. Farther

down the street is 48. COS (3, rue de Grenelle), owned by H&M, a good stop for eclectic and afford-

able designs. On the right side is the iconic 49. Sonia Rykiel (4–6, rue de Grenelle); the irst store is for enfants (children), and the second is for women.

Next door is 50. Borsalino (6, rue de Grenelle), a

store with Italian hats made famous by oh-so-many

gangster movies. Across the street is 51. Prada (5, rue de Grenelle). In general we don’t recommend

buying non-French goods that can be bought at

home for less, but if you are tempted, go Italian! The

very French 52. YSL (9, rue de Grenelle) can be

found across from Prada, so if you have a high credit

limit, do stop in.

Take a right at rue des Saints-Pères and ind 53.Tara Jarmon (75, rue des Saints-Pères), agood stop if you’re drawn to an uptown look. Next

door is 54. Sabbia Rosa (73, rue des Saints-Pères). She can outit you in some of the most beau-

tiful undergarments you’ve ever seen, but it will cost

you. Across the street is 55. Baby Buddha (68, rue des Saints-Pères), a new store that we like for bo-

hemian-style accessories. Back on the other side of

the street is 56. Ventilo (71, rue des Saints-Pères), well known for blazers for the country gentleman

with a serious bank account.

For a much more rock-and-roll look, cross the street

again to check out 57. IRO (70, rue de Grenelle). Continue along until you hit 58. Paul and Joe (62–66, rue des Saints-Pères), one of our favorite

French designers, which carries styles for kids as

well as mom and dad. At No. 69 you’ll notice a little

black sign for 59. Y’s (69, rue des Saints-Pères); if you’re interested in art and fashion, check out Yohji

Yamamoto’s more affordable designs. Next door is

60. Barbara Bui (67, rue des Saints-Pères), whose

vision is calmer yet still quite fashionable. Across the

street, 61. Karry’O (62, rue des Saints-Pères) of-

fers a varied collection of beautiful jewelry. Next door

is 62. Maison Fabre (60, rue des Saints-Pères), well known for its leather gloves, which it has been

making since 1924. Continue along rue des Saints-

Pères to boulevard Saint-Germain, passing 63. JC de Castelbajac (61, rue des Saints-Pères), known

for fairly outrageous designs for the untimid, and 64. Zef (55 bis, rue des Saints-Pères), a cute stop for

kids’ clothing.

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Cont.

Turn right onto the famous boulevard Saint-Germain.

At the corner is 65. Sonia Rykiel (175, boulevard Saint-Germain), where you’ll ind shoes and bags. To the left before you turn you’ll see 66. Etro (177, bou-levard Saint-Germain), a designer from Milan. After

the Sonia Rykiel shop, you’ll see 67. Ralph Lauren (173, boulevard Saint-Germain), which houses a

store as well as a café that is famous for its cheese-

burger. If you are missing a taste of home, stop in.

Cross the street and you’ll see another 68. Gérard Darel (174, boulevard Saint-Germain) store and

69. Façonnable (174, boulevard Saint-Germain), ashop for the preppy set.

Next you’ll see 70. l’Ecume des Pages (174, bou-levard Saint-Germain), one of the most beloved

bookstores in Paris. Although most of the titles are in

French, you can ind some travel guides in English and some wonderful postcards. Then you’ll see the

71. Café de Flore (172, boulevard Saint-Germain)and, after that, the café 72. les Deux Magots (6, Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés); across the street is

the 73. Brasserie Lipp (151, boulevard Saint- Germain). These are three of the most famous cafés

in Paris and perhaps the world. Each was made

famous by the bevy of writers and historic igures who ate and drank there, including Chagall, Camus,

Sartre, de Beauvoir and, more recently, Depardieu,

Harrison Ford and many others. Everyone seems to

have had a drink or a coffee at one of them. We, on

the contrary, don’t recommend them, because the

prices are extremely high and the service often rude.

They tend to be classic tourist traps resting on their

laurels. That said, if you must say you were there, try

the Café de Flore, which is still frequented by Pari-

sians and where the service is slightly less rude. You

can end your tour here with a drink. If you still have

some energy, though, turn left at les Deux Magots

and head up rue Bonaparte.

Across the street you’ll see the 74. Eglise Saint-Ger-main (3, Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés). Built in

1014, it’s one of the oldest churches in town. Step in-

side and have a look around. Back across the street

is 75. Louis Vuitton (6, Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés); stop in if you must bring back a little some-

thing from the iconic brand. Continue north along

rue Bonaparte and pass rue Guillaume Apollinaire to

ind 76. Assouline (35, rue Bonaparte), a wonderful

international book publisher selling its mark only. As

you continue, you’ll see 77. Richart (27, rue Bona-parte), which offers fabulously designed chocolates.

On the right you’ll ind 78. Ladurée (21, rue Bona-parte), a good stop for pastries and tea or coffee.

Its world-famous macarons make a wonderful gift,

but they don’t store very well, so pick some up right

before you travel.

Before you reach Ladurée on rue Jacob, don’t miss

79. Simrane (25, rue Bonaparte), where you’ll indcharming French linens, napkins and tablecloths.

Turn right on rue Jacob. Our favorite shop here is

80. Maison Rustique (26, rue Jacob), which has a

green facade and specializes in books about garden-

ing and plants. For very rich kilims and French pot-

tery, stop at 81. Michèle Aragon (21, rue Jacob). If you want to return home with a piece of history, visit

82. Librairie Signature (17, rue Jacob) and search

for something signed by Dalí or perhaps a famous

French écrivain (author). On the right side, ind 83.Michel Klein (9, rue Jacob), which sells items for

men, women and children and is well known for its

cool glasses. At the end of the block, you’ll ind the two stores of 84. Pierre Frey (5, rue Jacob, and 1, rue de Fürstenberg), very well known for French

fabrics.

Take a right on rue de Fürstenberg and notice the

charming Square Fürstenberg, one of the most

sought-after places to live in Paris. If you want to

stay here on a future visit, talk to our friends at

Haven in Paris, who have a vacation rental on this

square. Eugène Delacroix lived here in the 1800s,

and the 85. Musée Eugène Delacroix (6, rue de

Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.

92

Walk and Shop inSaint-Germain

Cont.

Fürstenberg) is a small museum dedicated to his

work. Located in his former home, it’s open daily

except Tuesday.

Turning back toward rue Jacob, you can ind fun gifts at 86. Arty Dandy (1, rue de Fürstenberg). Turn

right again on rue Jacob. You’ll come to a little square

with a sphere-shaped fountain. Before that, on the

left, you’ll ind 87. Jérôme Dreyfuss (1, rue Jacob),which carries some of the most sought-after bags in

Paris. Across the street, the designer has another

store for men.

Next to Monsieur Dreyfuss’s store is 88. Ollivary (1, rue Jacob), a gallery specializing in midcentury

antiques and found objects. Next to the gallery is a

boutique of 89. Isabel Marant, a well-loved and hip

French designer, who is married to Jérôme Dreyfuss.

In her late 40s, she still looks 25!

A great way to end your tour is with un verre de vin,

so take a left on rue de Seine and then a right to ind 90. la Palette (43, rue de Seine). In the 1930s and

’40s, la Palette was frequented by artists such as

Picasso, Cézanne and Braque. Before you reach the

resto, notice 91. Galerie Documents (53, rue de Seine), which sells fabulous old French movie post-

ers and other graphic art. Window-shop the galler-

ies you see along the street. If you continue on rue

de Seine, you’ll reach the Seine and the Institut de

France as well as the beautiful Pont des Arts.

1. Eglise Saint-Sulpice2. Café de la Mairie: 8, Place Saint-Sulpice

Tel: 01 43 26 67 82

3. Annick Goutal: 12, Place Saint-Sulpice

4. Comptoir des Cotonniers: 12, Place Saint-Sulpice

5. The Kooples: 74, rue Bonaparte

6. Hervé Chapelier: 1 bis, rue du Vieux Colombier

7. Pierre Hermé: 72, rue Bonaparte Tel: 01 43 54 47 77

8. Zadig et Voltaire: 1–3, rue du Vieux Colombier

9. Agnès B.: 6, rue du Vieux Colombier

10. Vilebrequin: 5, rue du Vieux Colombier

11. Agnès B.: 12, rue du Vieux Colombier

12. Au Vieux Colombier: 65, rue de Rennes

13. Victoire Homme: 15, rue du Vieux Colombier

14. Marcel Lassance: 17, rue du Vieux Colombier

15. Longchamp: 21, rue du Vieux Colombier

16. Théâtre du Vieux Colombier: 21, rue du Vieux Colombier

Tel: 01 44 39 87 00

17. Le Bon Marché : 24, rue de Sèvres

18. Camper: 25, rue du Vieux Colombier

19. Robert Clergerie: 5, rue du Cherche Midi

20. Maje: 6, rue du Cherche Midi

21. Gerbe: 4, rue du Cherche Midi

22. Poilâne: 8, rue du Cherche Midi Tel: 01 45 48 42 59

23. La Cuisine de Bar: 8, rue du Cherche Midi

Tel: 01 45 48 45 69

24. Metal Pointu’s 13, rue du Cherche Midi

25. Le Civette: 15, rue du Cherche Midi

26. Lilith: 12, rue du Cherche Midi

27. Cotélac: 17, rue du Cherche Midi

28. Cécile et Jeanne: 16, rue du Cherche Midi

29. N. Villaret: 20, rue du Cherche Midi Tel: 01 45 44 02 50

30. Le Cherche Midi: 22, rue du Cherche Midi

Tel: 01 45 48 27 44

31. Heimstone: 23, rue du Cherche Midi

32. Puyricard: 24, rue du Cherche Midi

33. Kamille: 1, Place Alphonse Déville

34. *Lutetia: 45, boulevard Raspail Tel: 01 49 54 46 90

35. Le Bon Marché: 24, rue de Sèvres Tel: 01 44 39 80 00

36. La Grande Epicerie: 38, rue de Sèvres

Tel: 0 1 44 39 81 00

37. La Maison du Chocolat: 19, rue de Sèvres

Tel: 01 45 44 20 40

Points of Interest

*A Girls’ Guide Travel Club Partner: All GGTP

members receive discounts at these and other loca-

tions. For more information about the Girls’ Guide to

Paris Travel Club and the complete list of our

partners (there are more than 200 restaurants,

shops, hotels, spas and more!), please visit

girlsguidetoparis.com/insider/member-beneits.php.

Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.

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1 1

Gourmet Tour

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2

Gourmet Tour cont’d

1. Begin at Place Maubert in the 5th – Marché Maubert

2. 47 Blvd. St. Germain – Dubois

3. 14 rue Monge – Kayser

4. Saint-Etienne-du-Mont at Place Sainte-Genevieve

5. Rue Mouffetard

7. 74 rue du Cardinal-Lemoine – Hemingway Home

9. 123 rue Monge – Le Boulanger de Monge

2

6. 136 rue Mouffetard – La Salle à Manger

8. 138 rue Mouffetard – Octave Ice Cream

10. 174 rue Saint Jacques – Les Caves du Pantheon

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2

Gourmet Tour cont’d

Begin your gourmet tour in the 5th Arrondissement at 1. the Marché Maubert, which takes place Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays from 7 to 2:30 at the Place Maubert, near the Maubert-Mutualité metro. Peruse the different stalls and vendors, asking for samples when appropriate. You might see fish and shellfish you’ve never seen before, so don’t be afraid to ask what something is, especially if there is no one waiting to be served. In general the vendors are quite friendly. You might want to buy some fruit or sausage to sample later.

For cheese, duck into 2. Dubois, which is at 47, boulevard St.-Germain (01 43 54 50 93), facing the market on the same side of the boulevard. Laurent Dubois won a prize called the Meilleur des Fromages, meaning that he is recognized not only for his quality cheeses, but also for the artistic way he prepares and ages his products. His goat cheeses are particularly impressive. We think you’ll find plenty of fromage to buy and sample here.

Walking down the street toward the 5th and turn-ing right on rue Monge, you’ll find a prizewinning boulangerie called 3. Kayser at 14, rue Monge (01 44 07 17 81). Eric Kayser is very famous for his cereal breads, but we love his seeded ba-guettes. His pastries are also divine. Buy and sam-ple as much as you can! Note: he has another store at 8, rue Monge, as well as many more throughout Paris.

After all this sampling, turn right on rue des Ber-nardins and follow the road south until it ends at rue des Écoles, where you’ll turn right. Go to rue de la Montagne-Ste.-Geneviève and take a left, curving around until you hit rue Clovis. Turn left and go into the church 4. St.-Étienne-du-Mont, a beautiful Gothic structure from 1492. You are at place Ste.-Geneviève, near the Pan-théon. If you haven’t yet visited King Louis XV’s monument to himself, the Panthéon, you can check it out now.

After you’ve had your spiritual and cultural side revitalized, follow rue Clovis toward rue Des-cartes, where you’ll turn right. You’ll stroll along this street until it becomes 5. rue Mouffetard, which is a classic Parisian market street. During Roman times, this was known as the road to Rome. It is a very ancient street, indeed. Every-one who comes to Paris strolls at one point along rue Mouffetard. You’ll see some very touristy ca-fés, which you should avoid. If you want to stop, wait until the very end of the street, where you’ll find an adorable little café called 6. La Salle à Manger at 136, rue Mouffetard on your right. You can have tea or coffee here alfresco on their small terrace. But before you get there, about one-third of the way down Mouffetard, you will run into a square, Place de la Contrescarpe, with a fountain. Around the corner here is 7. 74, rue du Cardinal-Lemoine, where you will find a little plaque indicating that Ernest Hemingway once lived on the third floor. He shared a cold-water flat here with his first wife while he wrote A Moveable Feast. You can spend an entire day or two trailing Hemingway’s life in Paris by following Michael Palin’s Hemingway walk.

If you love ice cream, 8. Octave Ice Cream, at 138, rue Mouffetard, is a good bet.

If you need more gourmet fun, check out 9. Le Boulanger de Monge, at 123, rue Monge, a street which is parallel to Mouffetard (01 43 37 54 20). This bread maker was given three stars for their baguette by Le Guide des Boulangeries. To find this spot, walk to the end of Mouffetard and down rue de Bazeilles until you get to rue Monge. Turn left on you’ll see Le Boulanger on your right.

10. Les Caves du Panthéon, at 174, rue St.-Jacques (01 46 33 90 35), is an excellent wine store. Pick up a bottle of Brut Zero Champagne. To reach this stop, travel north on rue Mouffetard up to rue Jean Calvin and turn left. When you reach the place Lucien Herr take rue LHomond

3 97

3

Gourmet Tour cont’d

Points of Interest Addresses

1. Begin at Place Maubert in the 5th – Marché Maubert

2. 47 Blvd. Saint Germain – Dubois

3. 14 rue Monge – Kayser

4. Saint-Etienne-du-Mont at Place Sainte- Gene-vieve

5. Rue Mouffetard

6. 136 rue Mouffetard – La Salle à Manger

7. 74 rue du Cardinal-Lemoine – Hemingway home

8. 138 rue Mouffetard – Octave Ice Cream

9. 123 rue Monge – Le Boulanger de Monge

10. 174 rue Saint Jacques – Les Caves du Pan-theon

4

north until it jogs and become rue des Fossés-Saint-Jacques. Follow this road until you reach rue Saint-Jacques and turn right. Les Caves will be on your left before you reach rue Soufflot. You’ll be near the Cluny-Sorbonne metro stop which is further north on rue St-Jacques and then left on Blvd. St-Germain.

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1 1

Quick Gourmet Tour

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2

Quick Gourmet Tour cont’d

1. 76 rue de Seine (corner of Lobineau in the 6th) – Gerard Mulot

2. 14 rue Lobineau – Marché St. Germain

3. 89 rue de Seine – Pierre Marcolini

4. 64 rue de Seine – Fromagerie 31 *

5. 62 rue de Seine – Da Rosa

2

6. Corner of rue de Seine and rue Buci – Paul

7. 32 rue de Buci – Aux Vrais Produits D’Auvergne

8. 6 rue Jacob – Huilerie Artisanale J Leblanc et Fils

*Closed for Renovations 100

2

Quick Gourmet Tour cont’d

Our quick gourmet tour begins in the 6th Arron-dissement at 1. Gérard Mulot, at 76, rue de Seine (corner of rue Lobineau). Mulot offers de-lectables from chocolates to quiche and every-thing in between. We love nearly everything made at Mulot. As you leave the shop, to your right you’ll see 2. the Marché St. Germain, which is an updated covered market offering the basic fish, meat, cheese and fruit and vegetable stands. This is not the best one in Paris, but it is small and the quality is good.

From the market, turn left and then left again at rue de Seine, walking north toward the river. Stop into 3. Pierre Marcolini, at 89, rue de Seine (01 44 07 39 07). Pierre is actually Belgian, but don’t tell anyone and you’ll enjoy these choco-lates every bit as much as the French ones.

Continue along rue de Seine, pass boulevard St.-Germain and stop into 4. Fromagerie 31*, at 64, rue de Seine (01 43 26 50 31). You can sit down here for an assiette de fromages (a cheese tasting) for a reasonable charge. Or you can take one of their lovely cheeses back to your hotel or apartment. Only slightly farther up the street is 5. Da Rosa, at 62, rue de Seine (01 45 21 41 30), where you can purchase jamon ibérico (the world’s best Spanish ham) as well as many other things Spanish and Italian. Be ready to pay for the Iberian ham, but it is truly better than any drug we’ve ever known. You can also sit down and sample from their menu and enjoy a glass of wine.

As you approach the Buci market area (on rue de Seine and along rue de Buci), you’ll see 6. Paul at the corner of Buci and Seine (01 55 42 02 23). You can often see the bakers flipping and shaping their dough in the window. Paul is good for break-fast and for takeout sandwiches. They are a chain with 300 stores in Europe alone.

Also stop into 7. Aux Vrais Produits d’Auvergne, at 32, rue de Buci (01 43 25 63 41), which offers beautiful sausages and other products from the Auvergne region of France.

Continue along rue de Seine, turn left on rue Jacob and you’ll see a tiny shop called 8. Huilerie Artisanale J Leblanc et Fils,at 6, rue Jacob (01 46 34 61 55), made famous to Americans by Patricia Wells. Many a gourmet treks here to pick up a bottle of their pistachio oil, but all of their oils are excellent and a bottle makes a wonderful gift for a foodie.

* Sadly these locations have closed.

3

Points of Interest Addresses

1. Begin at Gerard Mulot – 76 rue de Seine at thecorner of Lobineau in the 6th

2. Marché St. Germain –  14 rue Lobineau

3. Pierre Marcolini –  89 rue de Seine

4. Fromagerie 31 – 64 rue de Seine

5. Da Rosa – 62 rue de Seine

6. Paul – corner of rue de Seine and rue de Buci

7. Aux Vrais Produits D’Auvergne – 32 rue de Buci

8. Huilerie Artisanale J Leblanc et Fils – 6 rue Jacob

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1

Pastry and Chocolate Tour

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2

Pastry and Chocolate Tour cont’d

1. Begin on rue Palatine in the 6th at Saint Sulpice

2. 8 place St. Sulpice – Café de la Mairie

3. 72 rue Bonaparte – Pierre Hermé

4. 16 rue d’Assas – Jean-Charles Rochoux

5. Luxembourg Gardens

6. 19 rue Vaugirard – Musee du Luxembourg

7. 76 rue de Seine – Gerard Mulot

*

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3

Pastry and Chocolate Tour cont’d

8. 108 Blvd. Saint Germain – Patrick Roger

9. 34 Blvd. Saint Germain – Diptyque

3 104

2

Pastry and Chocolate Tour cont’d

Start in the 6th Arrondissement at 1. St.-Sulpice, on rue Palatine, and enjoy the beautiful redone fountains. Stop inside the church if you never have and view the Delacroix painting in the small alcove to the right as you walk in. This church figured heavily in The Da Vinci Code.

If you need some caffeine, 2. Café de la Mairie (just to the right of the church as you exit onto the square) is a good stop and a true neighborhood café.

Walk on rue St.-Sulpice toward rue Bonaparte and take a right, looking out for 3. Pierre Hermé, at 72, rue Bonaparte (01 43 54 47 77). He is the absolute king of macaroons in Paris. French macaroons, not the coconut ones we know in the U.S. Do sample the rose macaroons, which are the Girls’ Guide favorites, but each and every flavor is excellent. These make a marvel-ous gift — as long as you are giving them out soon as they don’t keep long. All of Pierre’s pastries are worth the calories, as he is truly a master.

Turn back toward rue St.-Sulpice and follow rue Bonaparte until you reach rue de Vaugirard at the Luxembourg Gardens. Turn right, walk several blocks and turn right on rue d’Assas. Walk to number 16 and enter 4. Jean-Charles Ro-choux’s chocolate shop (01 42 84 29 45). He makes incredibly artistic busts of famous French figures such as Molière, as well as many other more traditional chocolates.

Save yourself some room, as we have several more stops to go.

Go back to rue de Vaugirard, taking some time now to stroll through 5. the Luxembourg Gardens. The Luxembourg Gardens center around the Marie de Medici’s palace constructed in the early 1600’s. Marie, widow of Henry the IV, also commissioned the gardens. The Palace is used today by the Senate of France. Find the Medici fountain built in 1630 to the rear and east of the palace, which is a charming place to relax on a sunny day. 6. the Musée du Luxem-bourg, a delightful small museum that often has excellent shows. Stop in and experience some culture.

Exiting the museum, continue along Vaugirard toward rue de Tournon. Stop and admire the Pal-ais du Luxembourg (Le Sénat), which was for-merly Marie de Médicis’s palace and is now home to the French Senate. Turn left here, onto rue de Tournon. Walk along this street until it becomes rue de Seine. Here you’ll find 7. Gérard Mulot, at 76, rue de Seine (corner of rue Lobineau). We love everything at Mulot, so sample whatever catches your eye. Maybe you are ready for a bit of a savory taste. Their small quiches are excel-lent, and they will warm them up for you.

Follow rue de Seine north toward boulevard St.-Germain, where you’ll turn right. Walk all the way to number 108, the chocolate master 8. Pat-rick Roger’s delightful store. We love the fan-tastic window displays and his creative concoc-tions using spices from all around the world. Plus, the plain chocolate bars are simply superb. We love his aqua-green packaging, and all in all we just LOVE Patrick Roger. Pick up a gift here unless you are already loaded down.

For a peaceful end to a decadent day, we suggest a stop into 9. Diptyque, at 34, boulevard St.-Germain (01 43 26 77 44), to pick up a gift for yourself or a friend. Their candles and perfumes are legendary. You simply cannot go wrong here.

4

This stroll is over two kilometers, because you’ve got to walk off the calories, ladies!Biking the tour is another option.

NOTE: Shops might be closed on Sundays.

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2

Pastry and Chocolate Tour cont’d

5

Points of Interest Addresses

1. Begin at St.‐Sulpice on rue Palatine in the 6th

2. Café de la Mairie – 8 place St. Sulpice

3. Pierre Hermé – 72 rue Bonaparte

4. Jean‐Charles Rochoux – 16 rue d’Assas

5. Luxembourg Gardens

6. Musée du Luxembourg –  19 rue Vaugirard

7. Gérard Mulot – 76 rue de Seine

8. Patrick Roger – 108 Blvd. Saint Germain

9. Diptyque – 34 Blvd. Saint Germain

*

Note this last stop is a ways (over half a kilome-ter) from Patrick Roger, so if it is raining or you are wiped out you can skip it. But you will regret not having a couple of these candles packed in your bag when you travel home.

* Museum to reopen in fall 2011 .

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Wine Walk of the 1st and 2nd Arrondissements

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Wine Walk of the 1st and 2nd Arrondissements

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1. Harry's New York Bar, 5 rue Daunou

2. The Ritz Hotel, 15, Place Vendome

3. Le Rubis, 10 rue Marché Saint Honoré

4. Verjus, 47 rue Montpensier

5. Willi's 13 Rue des Petits Champs

6. O Château, 68 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau

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Wine Walk of the 1st and 2nd Arrondissements

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7. Le Garde Robe 41 rue de l'Arbre Sec

8. Racines II, 39, rue de l'Arbre-Sec

9. Spring Boutiqu, 52 rue de l'Arbre-Sec

10. L'Art Source, 6 rue Marie Stuart

11. Frenchie 5-6 rue du Nil

12. Experimental Cocktail Club, 37 rue Saint Sauveur

13. Vip Room, 188 rue de Rivoli

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Wine Walk of the 1st and 2nd Arrondissements

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This is a walking tour, or rather wine crawl, for the young, brave and tireless. You won’t, and shouldn’t, be able to visit all these bars and clubs in one night, but there are plenty for several nights on the town based on your mood, budget, energy level and tolerance. So pick a few that sound appealing to you, and make sure to hydrate in between!

Start your tour at the beloved American

institution 1. Harry’s New York Bar (5,

rue Daunou), frequented by expats and

Parisians alike for the range of cocktails

and more than 300 whiskies available.

The story goes that a patron enjoyed the

original bar in New York so much that he

asked for it to be dismantled and brought

to Paris. In 1911, Harry’s New York Bar

debuted in Paris, and a range of notable

writers and Parisians were big fans.

Turn left onto rue Daunou and make

another left onto rue de la Paix,

continuing until you hit the 2. Ritz Hotel

(15, Place Vendôme) on the north side of

the beautiful Place Vendôme.

Unfortunately, the Ritz is undergoing a

massive two-year remodel and won’t

reopen until 2014, but you can imagine

the stories and scandal that happened

behind the currently closed doors. Plan

your next visit to the Hemingway Bar

when it reopens.

Continue through the Place Vendôme and

do some fabulous window-shopping

along the way at the designer boutiques,

then turn left onto rue Saint-Honoré and

make another left at the next street to find

3. le Rubis (10, rue du Marché Saint-

Honoré). Le Rubis is a down-home, hearty

French wine bar, serving locals and

visitors stick-to-your-ribs meals at

lunchtime only, along with a large

selection of wine by the glass or bottle. If

you come after lunch, you can still enjoy

the zinc bar and burgundy banquettes for

a snack and some vino.

Return to rue Saint-Honoré and turn left,

then make another left onto rue de

Richelieu. Turn right behind the Comédie

Française and left onto rue de

Montpensier. At the end of the street,

you’ll find one of the tiniest wine bars in

Paris, but also one of the best. 4. Verjus

(47, rue Montpensier) is owned by an

extremely friendly and knowledgeable

American couple, with the husband

overseeing the cooking in the upscale,

upstairs dining room and the wife serving

as sommelier for the wine bar downstairs,

which also serves delicious small bites

from the same kitchen.

Turn right onto rue de Beaujolais and left

onto rue des Petits Champs, continuing

until you hit 5. Willi’s Wine Bar (13, rue

des Petits Champs) on the right side.

Willi’s always has an interesting wine

selection to choose from, including

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Wine Walk of the 1st and 2nd Arrondissements

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French, Spanish and Italian varietals. You

can pop in for a glass and bite at the bar,

or make a reservation to sit down in the

newly remodeled dining room.

When you exit Willi’s, turn right and

continue along rue des Petits Champs,

turning right onto rue Jean-Jacques

Rousseau, where you’ll find 6.

**O'Chateau (68, rue Jean-Jacques

Rousseau) on the left. It’s run by the

author of Stuff Parisians Like, a fun read,

**O'Chateau offers a range of enjoyable

offerings. You can learn about French

wine by ordering a flight of wines from a

specific region, or for more formal

training, sign up for one of the

entertaining and educational wine classes.

Continue along rue Jean-Jacques

Rousseau until you reach rue du Louvre,

then turn left. Make another left onto rue

Saint-Honoré, then turn right onto the

small street named rue de l’Arbre Sec.

Here you’ll find a few good options. On

the right side of the street is 7. le Garde

Robe (41, rue de l’Arbre Sec). Strap into

this down-and-dirty bar for some natural

wines with a plate of charcuterie, and

your evening will be off to a great start

(or will continue down a great path).

A little farther down the street on the

right is 8. Racines 2 (39, rue de l'Arbre

Sec), a good stop for a more serious meal

with your wine. The open kitchen and

long communal table offer a great spot for

a friendly meal while you sample more of

France’s great wines.

Across the street is the épicerie and wine

shop 9. Spring Boutique (52, rue de

l'Arbre Sec), the cousin to the highly

popular restaurant of the same name

around the corner. You can usually find a

few bottles open that you can have a glass

of while browsing salts, mustards and

vino, and Spring also offers a wine club

that includes home delivery of some of

your favorite bottles.

Retrace your steps back along rue de

l’Arbre Sec, taking a right on rue du

Louvre and another right on rue Etienne

Marcel. Turn left on rue Montorgueil and

you’ll immediately find many lively places

for your evening. One option is to turn

right on rue Marie Stuart and head to 10.

l’Art Source (6, rue Marie Stuart). Inside

are a bar and high-topped tables to

sample the interesting collection of wine

from 15 countries, including France, Italy,

Spain, Argentina and Chile. There’s also a

well-chosen menu to match, with

charcuterie, and warm, seasonal dishes.

Continue up rue Montorgueil, crossing

rue Réaumur and making a right onto rue

du Nil, where you’ll find the popular 11.

Frenchie (5–6, rue du Nil) restaurant on

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Wine Walk of the 1st and 2nd Arrondissements

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one side of the street, and the Frenchie

wine bar opposite. The wine bar opens at

7 p.m. and does not take reservations. The

line to get in can start at 6:30 p.m., but it’s

well worth the wait for the inventive

dishes and a stellar wine list to match.

If you’re ready for something a bit more

clandestine, head back along rue

Montorgueil and make a left onto rue

Saint-Sauveur, where you’ll find some

cozier bars. Look for a bouncer outside

the nearly unmarked 12. Experimental

Cocktail Club (37, rue Saint-Sauveur).

Inside, the warm brick walls encourage

you to tuck into one of the corners with

an expertly mixed cocktail and people-

watch while listening to the latest tunes

the DJ is spinning.

Only the true diehards can think of going

beyond this point, but if 2 a.m. comes and

you’re not ready to call it a night, head

down to the 13. VIP Room (188 bis, rue

de Rivoli). To get in, you’ll need to be

either on a list or (a woman) dressed to

impress. Once inside, you can dance the

night away at this club, open until the wee

hours, complete with revolving dance

floor and DJs extraordinaire.

**Girls’ Guide to Paris Travel Club Partner All GGTP Club Members receive discounts

and VIP treatment here and at over 200 other partners. Visit our website for more

information.

1. Harry’s New York Bar, 5, rue Daunou;

Sun–Thurs, noon–2 a.m.; Fri–Sat, noon–3

a.m.

2. Ritz Hotel, 15, Place Vendôme,

01 43 16 30 30.

3. Le Rubis, 10, rue du Marché Saint-Honoré,

01 42 61 03 34; Mon–Fri, 7 a.m.–10 p.m.;

Sat, 9:30 a.m.–3 p.m.

4. Verjus, 47, rue Montpensier, 01 42 97 54

40; Mon–Fri, 6 p.m.–11 p.m.

5. Willi’s Wine Bar, 13, rue des Petits Champs;

01 42 61 05 09; bar, Mon–Sat, noon–

midnight ; restaurant, Mon–Sat, lunch and

dinner.

6. **O'Chateau, 68, rue Jean-Jacques

Rousseau, 01 44 73 97 80; Mon–Thurs, 4

p.m.–midnight; Fri–Sat, 4 p.m.–1 a.m.

7. Le Garde Robe, 41, rue de l’Arbre Sec, 01 49

26 90 60; Mon–Sat, open until midnight.

8. Racines 2, 39, rue de l'Arbre Sec,

01 42 60 77 34; Mon–Fri, lunch and dinner.

9. Spring Boutique, 52, rue de l'Arbre Sec,

01 58 62 44 30; Tues–Sat, noon–8 p.m.

10. L’Art Source, 6, rue Marie Stuart,

Tues–Sat, 6:30 p.m.–2 a.m.

11. Frenchie, 5–6, rue du Nil, 01 40 39 96 19;

Mon–Fri, 7 p.m.–10:30 p.m.

12. Experimental Cocktail Club, 37, rue Saint-

Sauveur, 01 45 08 88 09.

13. VIP Room, 188 bis, rue de Rivoli,

01 58 36 46 00.

112