LOSSES AT SANDER/3 BRITNEY’S 2ND SCENT/12Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • May 5, 2005• $2.00

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NEW YORK — While most newlyweds celebrate their first

anniversary with something made of paper, Amy Krofchick

and Brett Perkins are marking the occasion with

something cashmere — their Amo & Bretti line, to

be exact. The launch collection for fall is full of

thin knits, meant to be played with and layered.

Here, their cashmere bed jacket and tank,

with jeans from Seven For All Mankind.

For more on Amo & Bretti, see page 5.

Most Creative Countries

Inside:Pg. 13

TheWWDList

See Luxury’s, Page6

By Betsy Lowther

NEW DELHI — The woman in the crimson sariis making a beeline for the cherry bags.

Immediately upon stepping into thiscity’s sole Louis Vuitton store, a quietboutique in the lobby of the lavish Oberoihotel, her eyes are on Vuitton’s newmonogrammed cherry bag collection.Within minutes, she’s swapped the luxeblack leather handbag she carried in forthe fruit-emblazoned Speedy model,checking herself out in front of themirror with a wide smile. The red detailson the bag almost exactly match thecolor of her bright, floaty sari.

Knitted Bliss

Saris and Louis Vuitton:Luxury Brands EyeingIndia for Future Growth

WWD.COM

GENERALIndia is considered “the next China” for luxury goods growth and the nextfew years should bring a rush of brands hoping to establish themselves.

Jil Sander saw double-digit sales growth, but stayed in the red for 2004 asits parent, Prada Holding, ponders the sale of its Helmut Lang unit.

Two years after Congress funded Customs to hire 72 textile specialists andinvestigators, the agency has finally put out the “help wanted” sign.

FASHION: Newlyweds Amy Krofchick and Brett Perkins talk about lifetogether and the fall launch of their new knitwear line, Amo & Bretti.

DISH: Seven For All Mankind has the ultimate proof of its popularity — acounterfeit problem…Levi’s in La-La Land…Lee goes online.

BEAT: Contemporary and denim companies had a strong showing at theIntermezzo Collections, using the show to highlight additions to their lines.

ACTIVE: Spring has reached full blossom in the activewear field and storesare seeing brisk sales of fashion-oriented performance merchandise.

EYEThe company at the American Ballet Theater’s One Night Only gala dancedto Tchaikovsky in tutus and tights…Partying at the Hard Rock in Vegas.

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● ESCADA HIRE: Cynthia Srednicki has been named director ofpublic relations at Escada USA. She succeeds Laura Henson,who left the firm. Most recently, Srednicki was the owner ofVision PR, which represented clients such as Silhouette andDaniel Swarovski Eyewear, which will close at the end of thismonth. Earlier, she was at Nadine Johnson Inc., and before that,Robert Marc. She reports to Lawrence C. DeParis, chief operat-ing officer of Escada USA.

● FACTORING IN ATLANTA: Wells Fargo Century, the largest bank-owned factoring firm in the U.S., opened a regional office inAtlanta to support an expanding client base in the region. ThomasV. Pizzo, president and chief executive officer of the firm, saidStuart Brister joined the company as executive vice president torun the Southeast Region business. Brister formerly worked inthe financial services groups of GMAC and Nationsbanc. WellsFargo Century is a Wells Fargo company with headquarters inNew York and offices in Los Angeles and San Francisco.

● SURF & TURF: Lafuma SA, the French outdoor apparel firm,and French surfwear maker Oxbow are looking to team up. Thesportswear specialists said they were in talks and have suspend-ed trading of their shares on the Paris stock market. The compa-nies said they would issue a statement next week. A deal wouldbe the latest merger in the sector. Last month, Quiksilver boughtRossignol, and earlier this week Germany’s Adidas-Salomon saidit would sell its Salomon ski division to Finland’s Amer Sports.Oxbow went public in July 2004, when the company issued 1.4million new shares, representing 37 percent of its capital.

● NEW COLE HAAN VP: Ellen Rodriguez has been named seniorvice president of international and licensing for Cole Haan, anew position. She will report to Matt Rubel, chairman and chiefexecutive officer, and also serve on the company’s executivecommittee. She was most recently corporate vice president ofinternational licensing and strategic planning for Kenneth Cole.Cole Haan, which has 48 stores in the U.S. and Canada, is look-ing to expand its global presence.

In Brief

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WWDTHURSDAYSportswear

Though it’s often been said that April showersbring May flowers, the merry month of May also bringsus that legendary American holiday: Mother’s Day.

While many retailers try and steer an endlessstream of consumers towards “what Mom reallywants,” there may likely be an easier determinant ofthis most important gift: her child. Chances are,whatever makes dear daughter tick may likely setMom’s heart aflutter, too, especially when it comesto shopping for apparel.

“There’s no doubt that mostmothers and daughters shop togetherand each knows what appeals to theother,” observes Randi Lane, proprietorof Catwalk Inc., an Atlanta, Georgia-based fashion show productioncompany. “It’s really just a question ofwho influences whom, and I have afeeling that over time, the two aremeeting somewhere in the middle.”

“We see many women bringingMom along while shopping; they’reboth looking,” shares Stefani Greenfield, a founding force behindScoop NYC, a line of chic boutiques.“In fact, we like to think that ourstores are merchandised with such alifestyle statement that it appeals to three generations,and not just two.”

“They’re definitely influencing each other,” addsLisa Erickson, spokesperson for Eddie Bauer. “Womenofany age want to be comfortable yet stylish.”

“Age is really just a number,” affirms ChristinaPapale, a spokesperson for Toniq, a brandstrategyfirm. “It’s really about your lifestyle and your experiences, so it’s easy to see why moms and daughtersshop in pairs and take cues from each other.”

According to Cotton Incorporated’s LifestyleMonitor™, women from Generation X, today aged26 to 39, werejust as likely tofavor comfortover fashion as womenfrom the BabyBoomer andG r e a t e s tGenerat ioneras, today aged 40 to 58, and 59 to 70, respectively.When asked if they were willing to sacrifice comfortfor fashion, an overwhelming 74% of Gen Xers, 79% of Baby Boomers and 80% of GreatestGeneration respondents said they were not.

“Today it’s fairly easy to find clothing that looks smartbut wears well,” cites Kim Kitchings, senior directorof research and planning for Cotton Incorporated.“Retailers have gotten very good at recognizing theimportance of comfort in modern fashion.”

Moms are clearly dressing for success in the lastdecade. Forty-two percent of respondents in theBaby Boomer and Greatest Generation groups toldthe Monitor that one never gets a second chance at afirst impression; a lesser 36% and 32% of women inthese respective groups felt the same way in 1995.

“Today’s mothers are certainly younger in theirattitude towards dressing,” attests Lane. “They’re notbound by strict parameters of what’s ‘age-appropriate’as women once were. It’s easy to see why there wouldbe crossover in what a daughter and what a mommight wear today.”

“Through staying fit and keeping young, motherstoday are able to wear jeans, high-heeled boots and

fitted blazers, which is a look generally associatedwith younger women,” offers Brent Green, authorofMarketing to Leading Edge Baby Boomers. “They’redefying the stereotype of aging and defining a stylethat is all their own.”

This younger influence on Mom’s dressing habitsmay be evidenced in further data from the Monitor.In 2004, 48% of women in The Greatest Generationstated that their typical new clothing purchases were

new and different, compared to38% making the claim a decade ago.

Today, women of all ages arebuilding these wardrobes with avariety of basics and novelties.Typical basics like khakis, denimand tees, comprise an importantcomponent of most women’swardrobes, asserts Erickson fromEddie Bauer. “We just launched anew pant program with a variety offits and cuts so women can updatetheir basics. This encourages womenof all ages to try different fits.”

And while a daughter mayencourage a more modern fit, neverdiscount the fashion influencemother exercises over her daughter.

“Mothers are the first introduction a daughter has tofashion,” Cotton Incorporated’s Kitchings surmises.“It’s only natural that a daughter will observe howmom dresses, and decide what she wants to emulateor change over time.”

Most experts also agree that the fashion synergybetween mother and daughter is likely to hit anobstacle somewhere around the teen years. “I knowfrom my own experience with my daughter that theinfluence is clearly cyclical,” recalls Lane. “WhenTiffanie was very young, she wanted to dress just like me. In her teen years, she couldn’t get

further awayfrom my style.I knew shewas maturingwhen I caughther sneakingback into myclosets.”

Greenfieldfrom Scoop also sees a correlation between price anda daughter’s proclivity to covet her mother’s property.“The better the label – which Mom can afford morelikely than her twenty-something daughter – themore the daughter is going to want it. The daughteris happy to tag along while Mom buys it and hopethat she will share it, if not buy her one.”

There is even something more precious at stake,according to author Green. “I believe that theprocess of shopping together is just as important, ifnot more important, than what actually gets purchased on a shopping trip,” he relates. “Mothersand daughters get to exercise their long-standing influences over each other.”

Agrees Erickson, “Shopping together is a greatway to bond.”

Feelings About How You Dress

A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated

™

MOTHER, MAY I?Today’s moms and daughters give and take fashion advice

“It’s really about your lifestyle and your experiences, so it’seasy to see why moms anddaughters shop in pairs andtake cues from each other.”

— Christina Papale,Toniq

This story is one in a series of articles based on findingsfrom Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™

tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages,each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to theAmerican women’s wear consumer and her attitudes and behavior regarding clothing,appearance, fashion, fiber selection andmany other timely, relevant subjects.

Gen X Baby Boomers Greatest Generation1995 2004 +/- 1995 2004 +/- 1995 2004 +/-

Never Get Another 41% 31% -10.4 36% 42% 6.7 32% 42% 10.1Chance At A First Impression

Can’t Judge A 59% 69% 10.4 64% 58% 6.7 68% 58% -10.1Book By Its Cover

WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2005 3WWD.COM

NEW YORK — Strong demand for accessories and denim inEurope drove an eye-popping 980 percent surge in first-quarterprofits and a 40.6 percent jump in revenues at Guess Inc.

For the three months ended April 2, the Los Angeles-based re-tailer earned $8.2 million, or 18 cents a share, compared with$756,000, or 2 cents, in the year-earlier period. Analysts had beencalling for a profit of 3 cents.

The stellar results were partly driven by strength in its whollyowned subsidiary, Guess Italia SRL, acquired in October. Thecompany bought 90 percent of the assets and shares of MacoApparel SpA, the Florence-based licensee of Guess jeanswear forwomen and men in Europe as well as the assets of 10 EuropeanGuess stores operated by Fingen SpA for an undisclosed amount.The deal closed in early January.

“Europe as a region benefited from very robust sales of acces-sories and stronger-than-expected performance from theEuropean jeanswear business we just acquired. Our domesticwholesale business and licensing operations also had improvedresults in the quarter,” said Carlos Alberini, president and chiefoperating officer of Guess, in a written statement released afterthe close of the stock market Wednesday.

Guess said its quarterly net income, when stated in U.S. dol-lars, also benefited from a strong euro.

Total revenues climbed to $215.6 million, including $26.3 mil-lion in revenue from the European acquisition, from $153.3 mil-lion in the first quarter of 2004. By division, sales in the company’sU.S. and Canadian retail operations rose 17.1 percent to $116.5million with same-store sales up 4.5 percent. Wholesale sales,which exclude Europe, were $31.1 million, up 10.6 percent. Salesin Europe spiked 283 percent to $56.6 million and licensing salestotaled $11.4 million, an increase of 4.3 percent.

Separately, the firm said April same-store sales fell 1.2 percent,and total sales in the four weeks rose 8.4 percent to $39.4 million.

Shares of Guess closed up 0.4 percent at $14.38 in Wednesdaytrading on the New York Stock Exchange.

— Meredith Derby

European Sales Boost Guess

By Amanda Kaiser

MILAN — Prada Holding NV said Wed-nesday that its Jil Sander unit stayed inthe red in 2004, even as it saw double-digit sales growth.

The news came as Prada confirmedwidespread speculation it is ponderingthe sale of another of its labels that hasseen the departure of its namesake design-er, Helmut Lang. WWD reported on March25 that three potential buyers were said tobe looking at the Lang business, but Pradadeclined to comment at that time.

Jil Sander is shifting its fiscal year toend on Jan. 31 to coincide with that ofPrada Holding, creating a onetime 13-month reporting period. For the 13months ended Jan. 31, Jil Sander’s netloss widened to 29.6 million euros, or $37million, and sales totaled 153.1 millioneuros, or $191.4 million.

All dollar figures have been convertedfrom the euro at average exchange ratesfor the period to which they refer.

Jil Sander said sales for the 12-monthperiod ending Dec. 31 rose 10 percent to137.5 million euros, or $170.5 million,from 124.9 million euros, or $141.1 mil-lion, in 2003 on “noteworthy” retailgrowth in Germany and elsewhere inEurope.

Prada did not provide a net loss figurefor the 12-month period to directly com-pare with Jil Sander’s 2003 net loss of28.4 million euros, or $32.1 million.

In January of this year, Jil Sander chiefexecutive officer Gian Giacomo Ferrarisestimated that 2004 sales on a 12-monthbasis would jump 13.8 percent after losingnearly 10 percent in 2003. He said salesgrowth likely would slow to a single-digitincrease for 2005. The company has said itwants to generate a profit at the operatingEBITDA level, which includes some one-time items, in fiscal 2006.

Jil Sander blamed the 2004 losses on a

combination of an adverse exchange rateenvironment, store operating expensesand product development costs. In astatement, the company said it expects toreduce losses in 2005 by implementingcost-control measures and an “aggressiverestructuring plan” targeting production,logistics and retail.

“Last year was certainly a difficult yearfrom the group; however, we are taking thenecessary steps in terms of organizationalrestructuring and cost control to bring JilSander back to profitability,” Ferraris saidin a statement. “Our goal is to continue togrow the top line through our core ready-to-wear business, but also through in-creased licensing revenues, widening ouraccessories range and selectively expand-ing our distribution network.”

Ferraris said Jil Sander’s return to

the namesake label helped boost sales in2004. As reported, Sander made peacewith Prada and returned to her post ascreative director in May 2003, only to de-part again in November of last year.

In February, a design team andSander’s longtime stylist, Joe McKenna,presented the first Jil Sander collectionto bow since the designer’s departure.The fall 2005 collection won rave reviewsfor sticking to Sander’s clean, minimalistaesthetic and churning out high-beltedcoats and bubble skirts in black and neu-tral hues. WWD wrote: “Whatever theircurrent relationship may be with Sanderherself, McKenna and the rest of theteam captured her essence with almosteerie clarity.” (McKenna is a consultantfor WWD’s sister publication, W.)

Meanwhile, a Prada spokesman ac-

knowledged the company is in talks tosell the Helmut Lang brand, but Pradafailed to identify any potential buyers.

Press reports have named Diesel andTommy Hilfiger as contenders, butsources close to both companies have de-nied their interest in buying the Langbrand. A Tommy Hilfiger spokesman de-clined to comment and a Diesel spokes-woman issued the following statement:“We are always aware of what is going onin the market, but right now, we are verybusy with the management and growth ofwhat we already have.”

Similarly, sources at several privateequity companies said they haven’t heardfrom Prada or its bankers regardingLang. They downplayed any potential in-terest in the brand, noting financial loss-es and a complex situation resultingfrom the namesake designer’s departureearlier this year. Many are speculatingthat a buyer might forge an agreementwith Lang to return.

One source estimated Prada chiefPatrizio Bertelli is asking about 100 mil-lion euros, or $128.92 million, for Lang.Unlike Jil Sander AG, which is still pub-licly traded thanks to a small float, Lang is100 percent Prada-controlled and thereare few numbers available for valuations.The most recent figures show Lang’s 2003sales declining 33.1 percent to 27.9 millioneuros, or $31.5 million, from 41.6 millioneuros, or $39.5 million, in 2002.

In March, Prada said it was closingHelmut Lang’s New York office just twomonths after the designer left the compa-ny. There’s talk that recently appointeddesigners have been let go and specula-tion that stores will be closed. The Pradaspokesman said he was not aware of anystore closings and declined to commenton whether design jobs had been cut.Lang himself has set up an office in NewYork’s SoHo called HL-art to evaluate fu-ture projects.

Prada Says Sander in Red, Considering Lang Sale

By Kristi Ellis

WASHINGTON — Two years afterCongress approved funding, U.S.Customs & Border Protectionhas just hung out the “for hire”sign for 72 textile specialists andinvestigators to fight violationssuch as transshipments.

Homeland Security SecretaryMichael Chertoff, trying to easelawmakers’ concerns, said in aletter to Rep. Robin Hayes (R.,N.C.) that by the end of 2006 theagency expects to fill all of thepositions, which will include atleast 17 overseas posts and a“large number” of import spe-cialists, audit, analytic and in-vestigative staff.

“I agree that textile transship-ment is a difficult problem thatrequires continued focus of ourenforcement efforts,” Chertoffwrote in the letter dated May 3.“We have devoted a significantamount of the department’sagent and specialist manpoweron textile enforcement (morethan 280 full-time equivalent em-ployees this year) with spendingin excess of $23 million.”

Chertoff, who took over fromTom Ridge on Feb. 15, did notaddress why there was such along delay in the hiring process.

He did point to an increase in

overall enforcement activities of346 percent in 2004 comparedwith 2003, an increase of 67 per-cent in sites visited, with 764 moretextile manufacturers reviewed.

Hayes, Rep. Sue Myrick (R.,N.C.) and Sen. Elizabeth Dole (R.,N.C.) sent letters to Customs offi-cials and Chertoff inquiring aboutallegations that the departmentfailed to properly allocate $9.5million in congressionally ap-proved funding to hire the 72 tex-tile specialists and investigators.

Funding for the additionalpersonnel at the Textile Enforce-ment Division was provided inthe fiscal year 2004 and 2005Homeland Security appropria-tions bills.

“I have to acknowledge thatsome progress is finally beingmade, but I’m disappointed inthe timetable,” Hayes said in aninterview. “I understand Chertoffinherited this and there will betime lost in the transition fromone secretary to another, but thatdoesn’t change the perilous na-ture of the position we find our-selves in.”

Hayes said he plans to holdfollow-up discussions with theagency to inquire whether expe-rienced and trained Customspeople can be shifted from otherareas into the textile enforce-

ment area, which might speed upthe process.

Dole said in a statement:“While I’m heartened the admin-istration is finally moving for-ward on this, it is my ferventhope that it will proceed expedi-tiously and complete this hiringahead of schedule.”

The domestic textile indus-try, which initially raised theconcerns with lawmakers, saidChertoff ’s letter left many ques-tions unanswered.

“I am troubled by the letterbecause it is short on specifics inregard to how many [textile in-vestigators] they are going to ac-tually hire this year and what thetiming is,” said Auggie Tantillo,executive director of the Ameri-can Manufacturing Trade ActionCoalition. “Why does the indus-try have to wait another year-and-a-half to get something donethat Congress appropriated overa year ago? It clearly shows thisis not a priority.”

Tantillo said he is still seekinginformation on how many ship-ments were seized last year, thenumber of companies that werefined, the total amount of penal-ties assessed and the percentageof imports, which totaled $83 bil-lion last year, which were actual-ly inspected.

Chertoff Vows to Fill Customs Posts

Gian Giacomo

Ferraris

Helmut

Lang

NEW YORK — There’ssomething about ConnieNielsen’s austere Scand-inavian beauty and coolself-possession that

doesn’t lend itself to playing comicheroines or witless bimbos. Instead,the Danish actress tends to be cast asthe long-suffering, strong-willed type— Joaquin Phoenix’s stoic sister in“Gladiator” and the object of RobinWilliams’ creepy obsession in “OneHour Photo.” Her latest project,“Brothers,” which opens Friday, is noexception. In the Danish film, sheplays Sarah, a brilliantly composed,staunchly loyal mother of two caughtin a love triangle between her hus-band, a former prisoner of war inAfghanistan, and his wayward but lov-ing brother.

“I read the script for ‘Brothers’ dur-ing a time when I was feeling very im-potent inside and watching the news ofthe war,” explains the leggy, Valentino-clad Nielsen, who’s perched near awindow in a suite at the Regency soshe can draw on an endless supply ofMarlboro Lights. “A couple weeks be-fore, there had been these wife-killingsat Fort Bragg by soldiers who werecoming back from the first tour of dutyin Afghanistan.

“I remember that I was struck bythis sense of tragedy. I didn’t feel likethey were bad guys. I felt that thosewere men — human beings — that had been through a trying situation and had come backand not known how to deal with what they had seen and done and had no way of fitting intothe society they were coming back to.”

Given this was the first movie in her 20-year career that Nielsen filmed in her homeland,she was initially apprehensive about the role and worked with a voice coach to make herplummy accent more working-class. “I thought the Danish might judge me harshly,” saysNielsen, who lives in the West Village with her 15-year-old son, Sebastian, and datesMetallica’s Lars Ulrich. But her moving performance in “Brothers” garnered her best actressawards from both the Danish Academy Awards and the San Sebastian Film Festival.

And her upcoming films aren’t exactly light fare either — she recently finished a WorldWar II film with Benjamin Bratt and Joseph Fiennes and now is shooting “The Situation” inMorocco, in which she plays a journalist covering the war in Iraq. But there’s laughter, ofsorts, ahead — Nielsen is happy to report she also has completed the black comedy “IceHarvest” with John Cusack and Billy Bob Thorton.

“I really enjoyed doing comedy and would love to do more of it. The funny thing is that Iactually started out doing them,” says Nielsen, who was 18 when she starred opposite JerryLewis in “Par où t’es rentré? On t’a pas vu sortir.” “He was my first movie kiss.”

— Anamaria Wilson

WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 20054

LAS VEGAS — A plethora ofrockers, randy actors and thewomen who love themdescended upon Sin City lastweekend to help Peter Mortonfete the 10th anniversary of hisHard Rock Hotel and Casino.(Meanwhile, elsewhere on thestrip, Steve Wynn drew a moresoigné crowd of Anna Wintour,Oscar de la Renta and ManoloBlahnik, while the sporty set,including Teri Hatcher, Matt Lauerand Catherine Zeta-Jones, swungaway at Michael Douglas’ charitygolf tournament at the privategolf course Cascada.) A fewsnippets from the 36-hourcircus:

FRIDAY, APRIL 299 p.m. A khaki-clad JenniferMeyer and Toby Maguire collecttheir room keys at VIP check-in,then rush off to hear Meyer’s pal,Jenny Lewis, and band Rilo Kileyopen for Coldplay at The Joint.

10:30 p.m. Chris Martin and theboys try to bring down the house,but are barely audible over thedrunken socializing in the VIPbalcony, where Bridget Hall,Courteney Cox Arquette, Matthew

Perry and a few new best friendsare perched. “This is the worstshow I’ve ever played. Can youall be quiet?” Martin pleadedrepeatedly (though still few couldhear him).

12:30 a.m. The crowd moves on tosubterranean club Body Englishand proceeds to dance the nightaway in another cramped VIPbalcony area while awaiting aperformance by Eighties rapperTone-Loc (who finally makes hisappearance at 3:30 a.m.).

1:10 a.m. Jessica Simpson and herNick-free posse breeze past adoorman while her mother yells,“Fred Durst is with us!” as thelaconic rocker shuffles to catch up.

SATURDAY, APRIL 3012:30 p.m. Poolside cabanas arealready at capacity with the likesof Lance Bass, Jesse Metcalf of“Desperate Housewives” andChris Kattan, who don’t seem toointerested in the bikini-cladcrowd, including KimberlyStewart, who passes the time

knitting a scarf, while NickyHilton, clad in a pool-appropriateblack shorts jumpsuit, helps LasVegas mayor Oscar Goodmanpresent comedian Jeff Beacherwith a key to the city as fishnet-drenched go-go dancers jiggle ona black fabric-draped stage onthe fake beach.

1:20 p.m. Jessica Alba andpseudo-beau Cash Warren makean appearance.

2:45 p.m. Shannon Elizabeth beatsDave Navarro in a celebrity pokertournament. “I think guysunderestimate women cardplayers,” she says with a shrug.

8 p.m. At the outdoor Bon Joviconcert, Zeta-Jones and Douglasrock out in the bleachers whileHeather Locklear and daughterAva watch Richie Sambora sing“I’ll Be There For You” from thewings. C-list troika Cris Judd,Wilmer Valderrama and JoeyFatone sway in sync to the ballad.

2:30 a.m. Robbie Williamsregales the Body English crowdwith Camp Freddy’s version ofQueen’s “Fat-Bottomed Girls”

as several silicon-enhancedwomen grab his behind from thestage pit.

SUNDAY, MAY 19 a.m. David Spade eats breakfastalone at Mr. Lucky’s Cafe whilereading The Los Angeles Times,and several rockers from Incubusand Linkin Park grab a bitebefore heading on to the nextdesert oasis, the Coachellamusic festival.

— Marcy Medina

LOS ANGELES — At American Ballet Theater’s One Night Only gala last Thursday, themostly teenaged company performed to Tchaikovsky in tutus and tights, thenchanged into their party clothes — which ranged from miniskirts to Uggs — toboogie down to salsa and hip-hop. “I think it’s a good idea to shake it up, make it abit younger and more hip,” said Center Dance Association founder Liane Weintraub.While Weintraub’s co-hosts, Anjelica Huston, Robert Graham, Danica Perez andKimberly Emerson, had a civilized dinner in one-half of the Dorothy ChandlerPavilion, philanthropist Maria Bell held court in a sleek lounge with 80 ABT dancers,who munched on french fries and steak kabobs. “It’s like a bar mitzvah on one sideand a wedding on the other,” observed one awestruck guest.

Black was the new black a few nights later at the Museum of Contemporary Art’sannual gala, where trustee Dallas Price-Van Breda, the evening’s honoree, asked gueststo dress not in their regular black-tie rigs, but in head-to-toe black. Some 600 guestsobliged, including board president Cliff Einstein and his wife, Sandy; supercollector EliBroad; UCLA Hammer museum director Ann Philbin; actress Mimi Rogers;Honor Fraser, and artists Ed Ruscha, John Baldessari and Francesco Vezzoli.

In fact, there was so much inky darkness that it was hard to see whowas who during cocktails in the museum’s cavernous GeffenContemporary space. What you could see clearly were the images ofartworks projected on the walls —- all pieces from Price-Van Breda’spersonal collection.

“You see, there was a method to mymadness,” said Price-Van Breda, a $10 milliondonor to MOCA. “When they asked me if Iwould be the honoree, I told them I was happyto do it, but that I’d rather honor the artists.”

The works shown during the evening —from Los Angeles artists such as Chris Burden,Ed Moses, Kevin Appel, Robert Graham and JohnBaldessari — were just a small sampling ofPrice Van-Breda’s eclectic holdings.

“You could probably dissect my collection andcriticize it,” she allowed. “But that’s not thepoint. I’m not trying to establish the primo,thoughtful, exhaustive collection. I’m buying whatI like right now. For me, it’s instant gratification.”

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5WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2005WWD.COM

NEW YORK — The first year ofmarriage is about so much morethan kissing and cuddling. There’salso the hassle of joint taxes andbill-paying, not to mention figuringout who gets which drawer. Butthat’s nothing compared with thetask that was at hand fornewlyweds Amy Krofchick andBrett Perkins, owners of theknitwear line Amo & Bretti (namedfor their family nicknames).

“We got married in May 2004and then just started working onthe line right away,” saysKrofchick, the creative half of theduo. And because she’s a third-generation knitter, launching sucha collection was second nature forher. “Giving a knitted item wasalways an expression of love whenI was growing up,” Krofchick says.It was also a sign of approval fromher mother, Katy. If Krofchickbrought home a boyfriend thatmom liked, she’d ask him, “Whatare your colors?” Not longafterward, he’d be presented witha homespun blanket as awelcome-to-the-family gesture.

Krofchick, 29, puts the samethoughtful care into her whisper-thin cashmere sweaters andtanks, which come in understatedcreams, pastels and black. All thelooks are monotone with subtledetails such as an oversizedcollar, big buttons or crochetedtrim. “We wanted to make aknitted garment that’s feminineand unique,” she says. “Our girl issomeone who goes to a party andattracts attention — not in a loudway, but because of the way shecarries herself, because there’ssomething about her style.”

That’s just what Krofchickdoes, says her clearly smittenhusband, who admits he had acrush on her when they were highschool sophomores in Canada. Thetwo didn’t connect romanticallyuntil a few years ago in LosAngeles, where they’re now based.Perkins, 30, takes care of thebusiness aspect of the line, aimingto fill a hole he sees in the knitmarket. “The Missonis are makingmagnificent garments, but for mostpeople, the price point is not veryattainable,” says the formerstockbroker. “But if something’smass produced, it’s manufacturedwith a generic fit for the biggestrange of marketability.” Enter theluxe pieces of Amo & Bretti, withwholesale prices that range from$69 for a basic tank to $165 for ashawl-collared cardigan. Retailruns from $179 to $418.

Amo & Bretti’s launch season,fall 2005, will be carried at FredSegal in Santa Monica, Calif., andabout 30 specialty boutiquesaround the country, includingFahrenheit 451 in Westhampton,N.Y., and Bleu in Los Angeles, butthe brand has yet to crack theManhattan market. Krofchick andPerkins hope to impress thestores they like to visit whenthey’re here — Barneys NewYork, Henri Bendel, BergdorfGoodman, Kirna Zabête, Scoopand Intermix.

And maybe after that, the pairwill get a chance to do the kindsof things normal newlyweds get todo. “We haven’t even had ahoneymoon yet,” says Perkins.

“Amo & Bretti is our baby,”adds Krofchick. “It doesn’t talkyet or give back, but it will.”

— Nandini D’Souza

Knitted Bliss

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By Holly Haber

DALLAS — Known for fashion inspired by Western heritage,Double D Ranch has evolved to offer embellished styles thatseem more suitable for rock stars than cowgirls. Yet the companyis still considered a Western label and doesn’t have much pres-ence as a national brand.

In an effort to remedy that, the family-run firm is preparing afall advertising campaign to thrust it onto the national stage andportray Double D purely as fashion and not ranchwear.

“We’ve been pushing the design; it’s really not Western,” saiddesigner Cheryl McMullen. “Less than 10 percent of our stores areWestern stores.”

McMullen started the business in 1989 with a Navajo-stylePendleton wool blanket jacket that was a quick success. Double Dhas since expanded to offer a 200-piece sportswear collection,Southwestern jewelry, leather handbags, belts, furniture and homefurnishings such as pillows.

With McMullen in charge of design, her sisters, Audrey Franzand Hedy Carter, manage sales and production, respectively,while their mother, Margie McMullen, handles finance. Dad DougMcMullen was the first sales rep and gave the line its name,which stands for “Doug and Daughters.” He has retired and is de-voted to collecting Harley-Davidson motorcycles. The family liveson ranches in and around Yoakum, Tex., population 7,249, andraises cattle branded with two interlocked Ds. The company occu-pies six buildings in downtown Yoakum, and manufactures in theU.S. as well as in China and India.

Expansion is driving Double D’s attempt to shake its authenticWestern image. The firm does most of its $8 million in annual saleswith about 450 specialty stores in the West and Midwest, as well as inNordstrom in the Rocky Mountains and Dillard’s in the Southwest.Now its goal is to develop retail accounts on the East Coast.

Double D already has customers in the East, with 90 percent ofsales from its two-year-old transactional Web site, ddranchwear.com,coming from such shoppers, many of whom have discovered thelabel while traveling, Franz noted.

To enhance the appeal to that demographic, Double D pro-duced an edgy fall campaign shot in downtown Los Angeles byLarry Bartholomew. It has a rock ’n’ roll theme and the tag line,“Turn it up.” The images, such as a model reclining on a Harleyin a leopard-print fur bolero, cropped top, jeans and an Indianbeaded belt, are intended to catch a more urban audience.

“It’s a multipronged effort to drive new traffic to the Web,where we are creating a much more robust e-commerce site, andto get some East and West Coast retail presence,” explained AlanLidgi, whose Lidgi Design agency produced the ads. The companyplans to begin the campaign in the August issue of the New YorkTimes Style Magazine.

An American history buff, Cheryl McMullen always has foundideas for her designs in books and her collections of NativeAmerican beadwork, pottery and dolls, as well as old quilts andvintage clothes and textiles. She’s now channeling embroideredMoroccan styles and jewelry once worn by Talitha Getty, JimMorrison and Jimi Hendrix.

Although the line can be merchandised with a strongSouthwestern feeling and is a favorite among women going toWestern-themed charity galas, it also has chic items that could be athome anywhere, such as studded leather jackets or leather beltslavishly beaded with Native American motifs. A top seller in the fallsportswear collection is a lambsuede shirt with silver embroideryand crystals. It wholesales for $289. Double D also did well with anasymmetrical cotton skirt knitted in a zigzag pattern for $110, and acognac leather jacket dotted with more than 2,000 studs for $349.

Among Double D’s key specialty accounts are Amen Wardy inAspen, Colo.; Simply Santa Fe in Santa Fe, N.M.; Jackson HoleClothiers in Jackson Hole, Wyo., and Fashion Reflection inWhitesboro, Tex.

Maverick, a high-end Western specialty store and saloon in thehistoric Fort Worth Stockyards, has bought Double D since thefirst collection.

“Double D is selling better for us than it ever has,” said SusieWard, buyer. “Some of the knit things can go anywhere, while somepieces just punch some Western attitude. Western is so big and dif-ferent than it has been before. It is funkier. That’s what we’re doing.”

Double D Broadens Range

An image from

Double D’s new

fall campaign.

An image from

Double D’s new

fall campaign.

Welcome to the world of fashion in modern India,where traditional styles like the sari and brand new lux-ury must-haves are starting to coexist. It’s an interestingmix not seen in many other places in the world, and re-tailers couldn’t be happier: After all, India is consid-ered by many to be “the next China” as far as luxuryconsumption and development, and the next few yearsare expected to bring in a rush of foreign brands hopingto establish themselves before an expected retail boom.

Expansion into the country is happening already.Louis Vuitton, frequently among the first luxury brandsto enter a potential market (they had the foresight toopen in China 13 years ago), now has two stores inIndia: the two-year-old shop at the Oberoi and a bou-tique that opened in September in the swank Taj Mahalhotel in Mumbai, the city formerly known as Bombay.Chanel opened its first India store last month in NewDelhi’s Imperial Hotel. And Donatella Versace justmade a splash on the front page of the country’s nation-al newspapers when she announced, during a visit toMumbai in March, that Versace would be opening fiveboutiques in the country next year.

“As soon as [China’s market] started to grow, every-one began looking at India’s population and demo-graphics and realized that they needed to include us intheir global plan as well,” said Superna R. Motwane, ed-itor in chief and publisher of Indian versions ofL’Officiel and Seventeen magazines. “A lot of people arebanking on India as the new China, and we’re all justkeeping our fingers crossed that it actually happens.”

A Merrill Lynch report issued last fall predicts thatIndia, which currently has around 5 million luxury con-sumers, is about a decade behind China right now as faras market development. The past few years in Chinahave seen many companies scrambling to open storesand establish a presence before the country’s retailmarket explodes, as it’s expected to do in the next fiveto 10 years. Now that India is being identified as thenext big place to watch, many foreign brands have al-ready started looking into expansion options there so

they’re not forced to rush in at the last minute onceagain.

The similarities between the two countries, at leaston paper, are undeniable. Both have populations ofmore than a billion people (the two combined make upnearly 40 percent of the world’s population), whichmakes for an enormous amount of potential customers.Both have quickly growing economies and emergingwealthy classes with an increasing number of business-people and entrepreneurs who have lots of cash tospend. And both have been opening their doors toWestern ideas, companies and lifestyles over the pastdecade.

These alluring traits have positioned India andChina as prime retail spots, and foreign brands are be-ginning to salivate over the potential success in bothmarkets in the next few decades. But despite the basicsimilarities, the two neighboring countries have manydifferences that will shape the way foreign luxurybrands — many of which are now established in China— will start to approach the Indian market in the nextfew years.

The main distinction between China and India ispossibly most obvious on the streets of each country’smain cities. China, which was closed off to the outsideworld for decades under the Communist regime, hadlong abandoned fancy fashions for the dark, simple suitsthat are still daily attire for many in Beijing, Shanghaiand elsewhere. When Western brands began trickling inabout 15 years ago, their colors and styles were seen asa breath of fresh air for fashion lovers who previouslyhad to work with the dowdy shapes and gloomy palettessold at home.

India, on the other hand, has never lost its sense oftraditional style even as its wealthier consumers havedeveloped an interest in Western designers, travel andluxury brands. A walk through the busy streets of NewDelhi or Mumbai shows that women regularly wearsaris or the salwar kameez, a three-piece outfit consist-ing of pants, a tunic, and a long scarf. And althoughmany women, particularly younger ones, have begun

embracing a very Western style of daily dress, they stillhave closets full of these traditional Indian designs,which are still the standard formal attire for the coun-try’s frequent, wedding-heavy social functions.

The result has put foreign retailers in a positionwhere, unlike China, they need to meet the need forWestern goods while still being somewhat mindful ofIndia’s own fashion history. “This is a culture that stillneeds Indian clothes a lot,” said Motwane. “I couldnever have a wardrobe of all Western clothes. But whatwe’re seeing is that the Western clothes are starting toblend in very well. A woman can wear a suit to the of-fice and then a sari in the evening to go out. Or she canwear a salwar kameez to the office and then a shortdress to go out. We have been able to keep our tradition-al clothes and mix our wardrobes with Western styles.”

But though big-name foreign brands are increasinglyshowing up in the Indian mainstream, what is differentabout Indian customers, unlike those in many otherAsian countries, is that they still prefer buying piecesthat are unique or less mass-produced — a trait they’vecarried over from their traditional clothes, which areoften custom-made and always colorful and creative.

“The Indian customer is very individualistic,” saidPrasanna Bhaskar, India retail manager for LouisVuitton. “You will not see 30 people carrying the exactsame bag in this market. Unlike a place like Hong Kong,where you do not need to remember what bag you soldto a customer’s sister-in-law, in India you do. They donot want to be sold the same design.”

What’s also a challenge for foreign brands is settingup a high-end, stand-alone store in a country whereshopping has long meant a trip to a local market. Adearth of central destination malls has, for now, forcedbrands into safe spots like the lobbies of high-end ho-tels. Foreign retailers in India are finding that they’restill in untested territory, which often presents difficul-ties that are not unlike the problems they faced inChina until relatively recently.

“We do think the market in India is going to explodein about five years, but there are still plenty of chal-

6 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2005

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The Taj Mahal hotel in Mumbai,

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lenges here,” acknowledged Bhaskar of Louis Vuitton.“Infrastructure is probably the biggest challenge inIndia. There are no roads here that you could easilywalk on in Louis Vuitton shoes, and that’s an issue.Location has always been a challenge. There are no lux-ury malls here yet, and even if there were, there are notyet enough [high-end] brands to fill them. We are stillwaiting for the day when there are at least 10 luxurybrands here who can move into aluxury lifestyle mall, like PacificPlace in Hong Kong.

“The chance of an AvenueMontaigne developing in India isvery low. We do not have the kind ofroads and promenades here thatcustomers could easily walk down.A street of high-end retailers is def-initely a distant dream.”

One of the other big hurdles forluxury brands establishing a pres-ence in India is getting customersto stay at home to shop. WealthyIndians have long traveled abroad— primarily to spots like Londonand Dubai — to buy their Westernwardrobes each season. Even withmore stores opening in the country,going abroad maintains its appealbecause of the wide selection ofavailable brands, although luxuryretailers say they are finally con-vincing customers that they canshop just as well in India.

“It took years for people to startgetting used to the idea of shopping for internationalbrands here,” said Anna Bredemeyer of EntrackInternational, who manages the Mont Blanc, Canali andGirard-Perregaux stores down the hall from LouisVuitton in the Taj Mahal hotel in Mumbai. “Part of theproblem was just the mind-set about the currency.People were used to shopping abroad, and a higher-end

product that costs 100 pounds [$190] in London wouldtranslate be the equivalent of about 80,000 rupees here.It’s the same price, but just the thought of spending inthe thousands versus in the hundreds — people still feltlike they were spending less if they shopped abroad.”

Taxes on imported luxury goods in India have, infact, raised prices in the country by up to 30 percentmore than stores abroad. Companies like Louis Vuitton

absorb some of the taxes to keeptheir prices closer to the world stan-dard, a practice they also maintainin other countries with high importtariffs, like China. But the differ-ence in cost isn’t much of a stickingpoint for shoppers who have themoney to spend, Bhaskar said.

“I think Indian customers aremuch more comfortable shopping inour stores and are willing to pay apremium for the service they get,”she said. “Our Indian customerslead lives of royalty. They do notlike to queue up. They do not likethe idea of going to a busy storewhere they’d be one of 700 cus-tomers at a time waiting to see abag. I have heard this time andagain from clients who say that theyprefer to come [to our local stores]because a bag will be reserved forthem or because they can easilycome often and spend an hour inthe store. They are very conscien-tious of service, and they become

very loyal if you offer them good service.”Motwane added: “What customers are really starting

to look for here is the buying experience. For shoppingin India, this is a very new idea. But this luxury cus-tomer the brands are now after is a well-traveledwoman. She knows what the buying experience is likein a place like New York. If you can replicate the expe-

rience here that you would get anywhere in the world,then that’s what’s going to grab your customer in India.”

The trouble is simply finding the location to grabthem. Retailers estimate there are about 25 to 30 pock-ets of wealth scattered around the country, which canbe tough to tap into with only one or two stores in NewDelhi and Mumbai. And both of those cities are sospread out that it can take hours to get from one sectionof town to another.

“Brand awareness is not a problem in India,” saidSwapan Bharma, retail head of Bulgari, which has ashop in the Oberoi hotel in New Delhi. “What is theproblem is just getting people to the store.”

In fact, unlike China, where many brands have towork on increasing their recognition, most Indian con-sumers are well aware of Western labels and the prod-ucts they’re known for. A growing number of local maga-zines has helped, and there are four dedicated almostsolely to fashion: Indian versions of international titlesL’Officiel, Cosmopolitan and Elle, and locally ownedmagazine Verve.

“When I started L’Officiel three years ago, everyonetold me India was not ready for a luxury fashion maga-zine,” said Motwane. “But looking back, it was absolute-ly the right time. Today, it has a circulation of 50,000. Itdoes very well with readers, and very well with adver-tisers. Obviously, the readers were ready for an interna-tional-quality magazine with a local focus.”

She followed up with the launch of Seventeen in2003, targeting India’s very youthful demographic (themedian age is about 24 years old) who are expected tobe a big consumer base for the country in the future.The pages of such magazines mirror the changes in thecountry, combining local Indian styles with Westernfashion — a mix that everyone expects to see more of ascompanies continue to flow into India and set up shop.

“Right now, India is a country where you cannot walkout in the morning and buy a Gap T-shirt, or a Pradasuit, or a pair of Diesel jeans,” Motwane said. “Now, Ithink every brand is probably going to be here in thenext two years. It will be exciting to see what happens.

While Indian consumers, like here and below, are becoming

increasingly aware of Western brands, there still aren’t many

shopping malls or streets where luxury firms can locate stores.

While Indian consumers, like here and below, are becoming

increasingly aware of Western brands, there still aren’t many

shopping malls or streets where luxury firms can locate stores.

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India As ‘The Next China’

Revving up its product-placement push, Levi Strauss& Co. opened a 1,200-square-foot showroom thismonth on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles.

The space is open to stylists and editors who wishto pull Levi’s clothing, from jeans to jackets, for TVshows and magazine spreads. The San Francisco-based denim maker has boosted its Hollywood pres-

ence in the last two years to compete more effectivelywith the flood of new high-end denim companies.

Levi’s clothing has found its way into shows suchas “Desperate Housewives.” Before the arrival of theshowroom, Levi’s relied on providing product forcelebrities from its store in Santa Monica, Calif.

— Nola Sarkisian-Miller

Seven For All Mankind has the ultimate proof of its pop-ularity — a counterfeiting problem.

The five-year-old premium jeans company hasmoved quickly on the issue, which surfaced in August,embarking on a nationwide campaign that has resultedin 19 lawsuits being filed and the seizure of thousandsof pieces of bogus merchandise.

“We are in the position of high growth and we seethat people are riding on our success,” said AndreasKurz, who took over as chief executive officer of the LosAngeles-based company in March. “We want to be veryearly, very strong and very swift to let everybody knowthat there’s a very high risk associated with trying tocounterfeit our product.”

The efforts resulted in the Florida State Attorney’soffice and U.S. Immigration & Customs Enforcementleading 100 state and federal agents last month in raidsagainst 18 locations in South Florida.

“It was critical that we hit all 18 locations simul-taneously so that they couldn’t contact one an-other,” Paul Meyers, chief investigator forthe Florida State Attorney’s office, said ina statement.

In less than three hours, an estimat-ed $500,000 in counterfeit Seven,Diesel, Lacoste and Juicy Couture ap-parel and accessories were seizedfrom retailers in Key West and MiamiBeach, a private residence and fromtwo stores in Miami’s Dolphin Mall.

“We got a tip from a retailer in KeyWest that said there was a store or twoselling counterfeit jeans,” said MichaelHeimbold, a partner with AlschulerGrossman Stein & Kahan, which representsSeven and helped orchestrate the raid.

Heimbold said that, before the raids, he and a Sevenvice president, Rick Crane, traveled to Key West andbought counterfeit jeans in 16 stores.

Shawn Brosnan, director of international supplychain security and trademark protection for LizClaiborne Inc., which owns Juicy, said Claiborne re-ceived a similar tip from one of its Key West retailers.

Brosnan also made a trip to Key West’s Duval Street,where seven of the stores were located.

“There were well over two dozen different labels in-volved in the raid action,” said Brosnan.

Seven has taken its fight to the courts, as well. SinceDecember, its legal team has filed 19 lawsuits againstretailers in California, Georgia, Massachusetts and NewYork. Federal trademark infringement, counterfeiting,false designation of origin and unfair competition areamong the allegations the company has levied againstthe retailers in each case.

Defendants in the bulk of these lawsuits have beenone-shop urban retailers that are hard-pressed to investthe amount of time and money necessary to mount aneffective legal defense. Many of the cases have resultedin monetary settlements and injunctions barring any fu-ture sales of counterfeit goods.

Some prominent retailers also were swept up in thecases. Filene’s Basement and its parent company, RetailVentures Inc., were named in a complaint filed on Dec.9 in Massachusetts federal court.

“Filene’s Basement reasonably believed that the jeanswere legitimate goods when bought, so this purchase wasan unfortunate, rare incident,” Mark Shulman, presidentof Filene’s Basement, said in a statement. “Filene’sBasement immediately pulled the disputed merchandisefrom its stores, and cooperated with L’Koral and the ven-dor Chic Lady in resolving their claims.”

Seven was wholly owned by Los Angeles-basedL’Koral Industries until March, when Bear StearnsMerchant Banking bought a 50 percent stake in thebrand. L’Koral retains a 50 percent stake in Seven.

Also in December, Seven filed suit against Loeh-mann’s Inc. in Manhattan federal court accusing thecompany of employing a calculated strategy for deceiv-ing consumers.

“Rather than place the counterfeit merchandise onlabeled racks on its sales floor, as defendant does withother merchandise it offers for sale, defendant main-tains its inventory of counterfeit merchandise in sepa-rate rooms, where it is not visible to the general pub-lic,” the complaint said. “Customers who ask forSeven For All Mankind merchandise by name are pro-vided with the counterfeit merchandise by defen-dant’s employees.”

Robert Glass, Loehmann’s chief operating officer,said the lawsuit “has been resolved in an amicablemanner.”

Heimbold also indicated that both Filene’s andLoehmann’s had been cooperative from the outset.

Developing a strong anticounterfeiting program isespecially important given Seven’s plans to ex-

pand, now that it has Bear Stearns’ backing.The firm helped recruit ceo Kurz, a for-

mer president of international licensingat Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. who alsoserved as ceo of Diesel USA.

“We want to protect not only whatwe currently have, but also the futurebusiness we are trying to build,” saidKurz. “We want to turn this companyinto a lifestyle brand.”

Seven has been quicker to act against counterfeitersthan any company where he has worked, he said. “Thebiggest mistake one can make is not to take things seri-ously,” Kurz added.

Seven’s success has spurred calls from other luxuryand denim brands interested in working with it.

“It would make a lot of sense to join hands with otherpremium denim brands to deter counterfeiters on alarger basis,” Kurz said. “You want to attack on allfronts at the same time, and you can do that and spreadout the costs.”

— Ross Tucker

The new line Tag aims to be the “It” jeans for theolder set.

Tag started shipping to specialty boutiques anddepartment stores in December.

“We’re targeting women between the ages of 20and 60,” said Iskander Lemseffer, designer of the LosAngeles-based denim line. “Our niche marketincludes all the mothers in America who want to looksexy. I’ve seen a 55 year old in my jeans and shelooked just amazing….It makes women look tallerand skinnier.”

The collection is built around one fit, available infive styles: the twisted leg with its twisted seam; thecowboy, with a double pocket in the front, as well as aflat embroidered back pocket; the Western, with afront double pocket; the straight leg in stretch, and acapri with twisted seams that falls just below the knee.

The wholesale price range of the collection is $70to $90. The Western and twisted leg styles are avail-able with rhinestone detailing, for wholesale pricesof $135 to $420. For fall, Tag will introduce a twistedleg style in stretch velvet that will wholesale for $85.

Lemseffer predicts the wholesale volume of thecollection will exceed $6 million this year.

— Lauren DeCarlo

Seven Tackles FakesWWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 20058

Denim DishWWW.WWD.COM

Tag Wants to Be ‘It’

Lee Jeans is preparing to test the online retailingwaters. On Monday, the company will launchLee1889.com, a site devoted to direct selling of thecompany’s junior apparel line. The currentLee1889.com site has been overhauled to accommo-date its new purpose as an online store.

— R.T.

Levi’s Goes to La-La Land With Showroom

Tag launched

in December.

Juicy goods

were also

confiscated.

A table of goods seized by Customs, mostly Seven Jeans.

Lee Jeans Goes Online

The Beat WWD.COM

WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2005 9

NEW YORK — Despite a concentration on acces-sories exhibitors, contemporary and denim compa-nies had a strong showing at the IntermezzoCollections on Piers 90, 92, and 94 from Sundaythrough Tuesday and were using the three-day showto highlight additions to their fall and holiday lines.

ENK International, producer of the show, said 627exhibitors were on hand at the Piers, down 70 from lastMay’s show which counted 697 exhibitors. The exactnumber of retailers in attendance hadn’t been calculat-ed yet, but a show spokesman said the figure should beon par with last year’s figure which was roughly 7,500.

The 10-year-old contemporary line Helen Wanglaunched eveningwear at Intermezzo. “We do everyENK show in New York and this time around, we’veplaced a decent amount of orders,” said Cara Borke,sales account executive for the collection, whichwholesales between $110 and $220. The eveningwearcollection featured pleated poly-charmeuse dressesand ballskirts. The collection is sold at NeimanMarcus and specialty boutiques across the U.S.

Surprisingly, Borke noticed that the buyers visit-ing her booth were primarily from the Northeast.“We haven’t seen one person from the West Coast,”she said. Helen Wang’s sales from this year’sIntermezzo show were still up 20 percent from lastMay’s exhibition. The company is expecting itswholesale volume for 2005 to reach $4 million.

Michael Mastriano, owner of the Tango special-ty boutique in Brooklyn, said the timing of theshow makes it a bit less appealing.

“People seem to have bought a lot at the lastshow and they’re already bought up. I don’t knowhow much merchandise you can continue to buy,”he said, noting concerns with the economy, specifi-cally rising oil prices. “And the weather doesn’thelp. With the cool weather, it still feels like fall.”

Tango’s business is up 15 percent from this timelast year, he said, thanks in part to burgeoningsales of belts, jewelry and handbags. “Kooba is re-ally great. It’s my best-selling line,” he said, refer-ring to the handbag collection.

The Los Angeles-based denim collection Rock &Republic was exhibiting additions to its VictoriaBeckham label, including a new crown logo for theback pocket. The denim company also launched a kids’wear line and a collection of blazers in fabrics suchas wool and cashmere wholesaling between $80 and$150. Also on hand were styles resulting from Rock &Republic’s recent collaboration with Lycra spandex.

“We really have so much to choose from. We’relooking to expand into a lifestyle brand,” said AndreaBernholtz, managing partner of Rock & Republic.“We are really selective about who we’ve sold to andhave actually had to say ‘no’ to many buyers.”

Bernholtz said Rock & Republic is not lookingto open new doors for the next three months, butwill increase its business in existing stores.

“Our volume is up and customers seem to be writingdeeper,” she said. “The sales number we finished withlast year is what we’re currently shipping each month.”

— Lauren DeCarlo

NEW YORK — The May installment of theAtelier Designers trade show is a smallerevent than the September and February seg-ments, though 31 vendors showed their falland holiday 2005 wares to buyers.

While an official tally hadn’t been made,Susan Summa, coordinator of the AtelierDesigners show, said the number of buyersshopping the show had doubled from last year.The event was held April 30-May 2 on the 10thand 11th floors of the Rihga Royal Hotel here.

“For the May show, we use two floors, butfor the shows in February and September, weuse five,” Summa said. “Alot of the new designerswe’ve had in this timeslot have been very activein getting new buyers tous. The designers arefinding new resources,and the overall moodseems very upbeat.”

Lorain Croft, ownerand designer of hereponymous collectionbased here, was showingat Atelier for the secondtime. “I think the qualityof the buyers is whatbrought me back,’’ shesaid. “They are calm andserious and can appreci-ate fabrics. My numbersstarted going up when Istarted doing this show.”

Croft’s collection in-cludes pieces such as flowysequin tops and silk fitted jackets. She incorpo-rates fabrics such as crushed and hand-paintedsilk, wool bouclé and French lace. While thewholesale price range of the Lorain Croft collec-tion is $159 to $398, Croft noticed that buyers atAtelier were less price-resistant than buyers sheencountered at other trade shows.

“As long as the piece has something to say,it really wasn’t a problem to sell somethingthat wholesales for $398,” Croft said. “I thinkthe buyers at this show are more concernedwith quality and not quantity.”

Summa said, “We have three types of col-lections in this show, artisan, fashion andavant-garde. There’s quite a variety.”

Timna Myers, owner of Timna DistinctiveArtwear, a specialty boutique in Memphis,said she turns to the May show for fill-in or-ders. “The designers at this show have anartistic component as well as a fashion com-ponent. That works well for small owners be-cause it allows you to look different from thebigger department stores,” she said.

Myers sought reorders from Susans, a bet-ter women’s wear line based in Berkeley,Calif.; Treadle Design Room, a jacket and topsline based in Los Angeles, and Kay Chapman,an eveningwear line with headquarters in Van

Nuys, Calif. The Japanesecollection, Ona, basedhere, was a new additionto Myers’ boutique. “Itwas very wearable…andwashable,” she said, not-ing that her customers,primarily 40 to 60 yearsold, would appreciate thecollection’s simplicity.

Laura “Lola” Herrerawas one of the designerswhose collection has rootsin art. “We sold some mer-chandise to Julie Artisans’Gallery,” Herrera said ofher collection, Lola of SanFrancisco. “It was one ofthe first places to show-case art-to-wear in NewYork, so that’s a really bigmilestone for us.”

The collection includessilk charmeuse frayed

“strip skirts,” long, reversible silk robes andsilk metallic organza skirts, and wholesales at$350 to $1,500.

“I’d say I’ve done about $10,000 in saleswith my robes alone,” Herrera said. “By theend of the show, I’d say I’ll probably totalaround $30,000.” Herrera took orders fromboutiques such as Moon Cake in Atlanta; ThePhoenix in Richmond, Va., and Under OneRoof in Brooklyn.

“These buyers really get what’s going on,”Herrera said. “They’re very complimentary,and I’ve had the opportunity get some reallygreat accounts.”

— L.D.

NEW YORK — Nouveau Collective has changed addresses, and vendorsand buyers enjoyed the new scenery.

The trade show was held Saturday through Tuesday at The NewYorker Hotel here instead of the Park Central Hotel, its home for thelast five years. Along with the switch in location came a change in setup:Exhibitors were previously tucked away in individual hotel rooms. Thisyear they were in two ballrooms on the hotel’s mezzanine and dispersedthroughout the third-floor conference rooms.

“We had 1,350 buyers shopping the show and 350 exhibitors,” saidJoanne Feinstein, president of Nouveau Collective. “Lots of our exhibitorshad record shows this time. We really are the mirror image of a better spe-cialty store.” Of the 350 exhibitors, 20 percent were new to the show.

Feinstein said the event would go into big-ger space for the next market in August at TheNew Yorker Hotel. “I picture a runway showand a party in this expanded space,” she said.

“I think the foot traffic has doubled —tripled even — since we moved to thishotel,” said Manya Suchy, director of salesfor Canvasbacks, a misses’ collection basedin Milwaukee. “I didn’t stop working onceon the first two days of the show.”

Suchy said she would likely have a totalof $100,000 in sales over the four-day period.“I’ve signed about 35 accounts this timearound and about a dozen new customers.Buyers aren’t dropping a lot of cash on holi-day, but they’re adding to their fall orders.”

Canvasbacks, a bridge collection that in-corporates mostly European fabrics, whole-sales for $124 to $210, while Bets by Canvasbacks, a more casual, weekendline that uses domestic fabrics, wholesales for $69 to $139. Fitted jacketsin chunky tweeds and cashmere are the highlight of each collection.

Susan Hannah, owner of Hannah boutiques on Cape Cod inMassachusetts, in Windsor, Conn., and a two-month-old location inManhattan’s SoHo district, favored the new venue. “I feel like when youwent into the small hotel rooms, it was too inhibiting,’’ she said. “Youlost some of the spirit and comraderie in that setup.”

Hannah was particularly fond of Canvasback. “I love the novelty of it.Items are in and so is color and great fabrics, and that’s exactly whatCanvasback is.” Because of her new SoHo location, Hannah said shehad more freedom to choose between a number of collections and wasable to go with “pricier,” more “artsy” collections. “There’s a really nicemix at this show,” she said.

New Park was another collection pleased to see a change in layout. “It’smuch better now,” said Stephanie Goureau of the Olivier Goureau Inc. show-room, home to six collections, including New Park. “We didn’t get many newclients at previous shows, but this time around, we signed at least 20.”

— L.D.

Fitted jackets were key

items for Canvasbacks.

Nouveau Collective GetsA Nouvelle Adresse

“It’s got a life

of its own,”

Lorain Croft

said of this

top.

Artistry Shines at Atelier Designers

Intermezzo Reels Them In at the Piers

Rock & Republic

unveiled a line

of blazers at

Intermezzo.

Rock & Republic

unveiled a line

of blazers at

Intermezzo.

A merino wool skirt

and blouson by

Helen Wang was a

big hit with buyers.

By Melanie Kletter

NEW YORK — Spring has reached full blossom in theactivewear field and stores are seeing brisk sales offashion-oriented and performance merchandise.

While the weather in the Northeast has beenslightly cooler than usual, retailers are reportinga warm consumer reaction to bright colors andstylish activewear, as well as high-tech perform-ance items. Spring is always a key season in theathletic world, as casual and hard-core athletesresume outdoor activities like running, biking,golf, tennis and hiking.

This year, color is a big story in activewear asconsumers gravitate toward hues such as pinkand green.

“Everyone wants color, especially pink andflower prints,” said Dana Mason, apparel buyer atMason’s Tennis Mart, a 29-year-old tennis retailerin Manhattan. “Women want clothes that arebright and fun. People see tennis players likeMaria Sharapova wearing color on the court andthey like that.”

One activewear newcomer has already exceed-ed expectations. Adidas by Stella McCartney hitstores in March and quickly sold out of initial de-liveries at Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom storesin the U.S., and at Isetan in Tokyo, the companysaid last week. The line, which has high-tech fab-rics paired with stylish designs, is being rolled outfor fall to stores in Europe and Asia.

At Athleta, one of the largest women’s athleticcatalogue firms, sales this spring have so far ex-ceeded plan, said Tami Anderson, marketing direc-tor. The catalogue carries apparel and other prod-ucts for a range of activities such as yoga, surfing,hiking, running, walking and weight training.

“We didn’t offer any new categories this season,but we went deeper with our surf and swim assort-ment driven by the introduction of our own Athletaswim line earlier this year,” Anderson said. “We’veexpanded our selection of our Athleta brandpieces, which now includes an assortment of tops,bottoms, tankini tops, one-pieces and skirts.”

The Petaluma, Calif.-based company has beenbuilding up its private label offerings sold underthe Athleta name and those products now accountfor about 60 percent of its selection. Among otherbrands it sells in its catalogues are Prana, Hindand Adidas. Anderson also said the company isexploring the idea of opening stores.

“Our strategy at this point does not includewholesaling,” she said. “We’d be more likely toopen up our own retail stores and grow the brandin that direction.”

The company mailed out more than one mil-lion catalogues this season, she noted.

At Equinox Fitness, the upscale health clubwith 24 boutiques, merchandise sales have beenup as the company has shifted to more fashion-

oriented offerings.“We finished up the first quarter 10 percent over

last year’s and above plan,” said buyer MarianBaker, who has been increasing the number of fash-ion and contemporary brands sold at the stores.“What has been our strong suit are smaller, nichebrands, which is indicative of our customer’s de-mand for a more unique, specialty store product.”

Among the brands she cited as standouts thisseason are Gigi and Fitness Fit, two lines fromSouth America, as well as Susana Monaco andCity Tech. The company’s revamped private labelline has also been selling well, particularly themen’s merchandise, she noted.

Equinox continues on its growth spurt andplans to open six stores by the end of this year inmarkets around the country, Baker noted.

The tennis season has been off to a brisk startat Mason’s Tennis Mart. While the professionaloutdoor tennis season is just getting into fullswing, sales of racquets and apparel to generalconsumers have already begun well. Among thetop-selling women’s brands at her store this seasonare Nike, specifically the Nike Serena Williamscollection, as well as Tail and Polo Ralph Lauren.

“We are also selling a lot of tie-dyed headbands,and socks with Swarovski crystals,” Mason said.

At New York Golf Center, one of the city’slargest golf retailers, color and performance mer-chandise are standing out, said Pam Granier, ap-parel manager. Nike golf, Polo Ralph Lauren,Claudia Romano and J. Lindeberg are key sellers.

“Nike’s golf line has technical properties andpeople are looking for that now,” Granier said. “Ingeneral, we are selling more fashion, and verytrendy and young looks.”

Outdoor apparel has been slightly more chal-lenging for some brands, however. ColumbiaSportswear, which makes outdoor apparel andalso operates company-owned stores, saw itsshares tumble about 16 percent on Friday. Thestock fell after the company said its second-quar-ter and full-year earnings would drop due to a de-cline in orders for fall deliveries and a shift to-ward lower-margin product categories.

On the positive side, Columbia also experi-enced robust demand for certain sportswearitems, including spring shorts, woven and knittops, pants and sweaters.

Timothy P. Boyle, Columbia’s president andchief executive officer, said in a call with analyststhat, “General retail conditions this spring havebeen fair, and sell-through of sandals and shortshas generally been soft in markets where weatherhas been cool this spring.”

NEW YORK — Following up on its revival in footwear,KangaRoos is hopping into apparel with its first line for youngwomen set to launch at retail this fall.

“We are looking to make KangaRoos into a head-to-toebrand,” said Charlie Liberge, vice president and general manag-er of KangaRoos at Atsco Footwear Group, which owns thebrand’s U.S. distribution rights for all categories.

KangaRoos is a division of Pentland Group, the London-based conglomerate that also owns companies such as Speedoand Ellesse, and makes footwear for brands including Lacoste.

The initial KangaRoos apparel collection includes a wide se-lection of terry-cloth tracksuits, logo T-shirts, long-sleeve poloshorts, velour miniskirts, mesh tops and sweaters designed toblend activewear and streetwear looks. Many of the items comein bright colors such as lime green, orange, fuchsia and purple,and some of the tracksuits have color blocking. Several of thetops and bottoms also have little pockets, the trademark of thecompany’s footwear.

The apparel targets sporty young women ages 15 to 25 andcarries wholesale prices of about $20 to $50. The line has beenpicked up by Marshall Field’s and Atsco is aiming for distribu-tion in specialty chains such as Finish Line, as well as depart-ment and specialty stores.

The Avon, Mass.-based company hasaggressive sales targets for this business.

“Our goal is to build the brand to$100 million in sales over the nextfive years,” Liberge said.

KangaRoos competes with youth-oriented brands such as Blue Marlin,as well as vertical retailers, includingAbercrombie & Fitch and AmericanEagle Outfitters, Liberge said. It alsowill be coming up against other retrobrands such as Le Tigre and Penguinthat have been crowding the market.

KangaRoos was a popular footwearbrand in the Eighties with its bright col-ors and small velcro pockets on the side.Atsco relaunched the brand in footwearin 2003 and had fast growth in that cate-gory as younger consumers sought outretro labels. Its shoes are sold in about2,200 stores, including Nordstrom and Urban Outfitters.

KangaRoos has never done apparel before. Atsco also plansto introduce KangaRoos into other categories, includingfootwear and handbags, for spring 2006, Liberge noted.

“We are looking to create a total lifestyle brand,” Libergesaid. “The brand is quirky enough that we feel we can add a lotof categories.”

Atsco, which has been in business for 94 years, makes brand-ed footwear under license, has its own brands and also makesproducts under private label for retailers. Until now, the compa-ny’s experience has been primarily in footwear. Last week,Pentland USA acquired a minority stake in Atsco and will help itfacilitate its growth in apparel.

“Apparel is a new arena for us,” Liberge said. “But we plan todo more in that area as we seek to create head-to-toe concepts.”

— M.K.

NEW YORK — Nike’s decision to stop selling its footwear andsocks in Sears Holding Corp. was attributed to “the regularcourse of brand management” according to a company spokes-woman Wednesday.

The spokeswoman declined to comment on whether its planto halt its footwear distribution to Sears in late October was dueto concerns that the new Sears Holdings Corp. might sell thebrand in its Kmart discount division as well. The companyspokeswoman said these kinds of distribution changes are notuncommon when contracts are up.

Nike is highly protective of its image and distribution. To fa-cilitate its move into the discount channel, the company boughtOfficial Starter Properties last year as a way to expand into themass arena under other nameplates. Nike operates that busi-ness as a subsidiary under Exeter Brands LLC, and has said ithas no plans to sell the Nike brand in the discount channel.Under that division, the company relaunched Starter footwearat Wal-Mart stores in March with more high-tech products.

While it will no longer carry Nike, Sears sells a large numberof athletic and other footwear brands, including New Balance,Adidas and Skechers. It also sells activewear from Russell andDanskin among others. A company spokeswoman at RussellAthletic said the activewear giant has no plans to review orchange its distribution at Sears, and declined to comment further.

KangaRoos Jumps Into Apparel

Active LifestyleX

10 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2005

Nike Ends Sears Footwear Deal

Spring Roll in Activewear

WWD.COM

A velour tracksuit from the

new KangaRoos line.

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EN

Nike tennis looks have been strong sellers at Mason’s

Tennis Mart in Manhattan.

City Tech has

been a standout

at Equinox

Fitness shops

this season.

The July WWDFast Forecast:

For more information, contact Gus Floris, associate publisher, (New York) at 212- 630-4636; Deborah Levy, senior account manager; West Coast, at 323-951-1803; Elizabeth Haynes, European advertising director,

(Paris) at +33-1-44-51-13-03, Elena DeGiuli, account executive, (Milan) at +39-02-7600-3926.WWDMediaWorldwide®

Who’s talking about the weather? The WWDFast special July issue will be burning the fingers of key retailers, manufacturers AND consumers. For the first time, this hybrid issue

will be distributed to fashion-conscious consumers looking to the fall season’s sizzling hot trends and products across all categories in sportswear fashion.

Don’t be left out in the cold. Be part of the issue that is sure to heat up your brand and increase your bottom line.

Bonus distribution: 20,000 young, trend-conscious consumers from the Advance Marketing database, ASR, MAGIC and The Project Show.

Coated Stock Magazine: July 21Close: June 16

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WWDFAST

NEW YORK — A fund-raiser to help prevent teenage pregnan-cy is bound to be a little controversial, and guests at Candie’s“Event to Prevent” Tuesday night did not disappoint.

After all, Jane Fonda, Rosie O’Donnell, Katie Couric,Jewel and Ashlee Simpson aren’t exactly shrinking vio-lets. Jewel and Simpson headlined the evening with liveperformances at Gotham Hall here, raising $400,000 forthe Candie’s Foundation. There was no question of lip-synching with Jewel, who belted out “Someone Over theRainbow” without any musical backup. She was equallyunwavering about her support for Candie’s.

“There are a lot of companies that do a lot for charita-ble things for very transparent reasons. After talkingwith the people at Candie’s, you can tell they really be-lieve in the cause,” she said, then deadpanned, “Therewill be condoms handed out when you leave.”

Onstage, Simpson talked about women making theright choices, and offstage the 20-year-old said she is inthe early stages of setting up her own clothing collectionand expects to have one within the year.

“It’s absolutely something that I have really wanted todo since I was a little girl,” she gushed.

In a white La Perla tunic and James jeans, Simpsonsaid, “I am so proud I bought my whole outfit by myself yes-terday. When I came back, everyone said, ‘You did good.’ ”

All too familiar with the media’s dissection of celebri-ties, she said her sister Jessica offered some advice. “Shetold me, ‘Don’t listen to it, be yourself, believe in yourselfand no matter what you do everyone will have an opinion.’”

Fonda, who was spat upon by a Vietnam veteran duringa book signing for her autobiography last month, has dealtwith a lifetime of opinions — her own and those of others.And O’Donnell, before giving Fonda an award for foundingthe Georgia Campaign for Adolescent PregnancyPrevention, praised her for her anti-Vietnam War stance.

As to whether women can be opinionated withoutbeing controversial, Fonda said before the event, “It de-pends what her opinions are about. If they are about veg-etables, then no, she won’t be very controversial. Buthopefully women will have opinions about importantthings and will express those opinions.”

Asked if it is up to brands to help America’s children, theValentino-clad Fonda said, “It’s great when they do. Funds forthese programs are being cut back because of the war in Iraq.The more companies that step in, the better.”

During the fund-raising auction, photographer PatrickMcMullan made the winning $5,500 bid for lunch with

Fonda, who promptly gave him her office number. Once thatwas taken care of, she asked, “Are you single?”

“Yes,” McMullan replied.“Good.” said Fonda, slapping him on the shoulder with

approval, before walking away.Mark Badgley and James Mischka landed singles of anoth-

er kind. When two women went head-to-head for a private fit-ting with the designers, New York State Parks CommissionerBernadette Castro, the auctioneer, badgered them to in-crease their bids to $15,000, and each would score a BadgleyMischka evening gown. One bidder took some persuading, sothe designers offered to throw in a handbag. Still uncon-vinced, one guest suggested they throw in a pair of shoes.Mischka smiled nervously but did not cave. “We don’t haveshoes,” he explained later. (There was Badgley Mischkafootwear through last fall and the company, which is nowowned by Candie’s, plans to develop another collection.)

After much hemming and hawing, both bidders agreed topledge $15,000, making them the evening’s high rollers. Thedesigners even trumped a movie night at Hugh Hefner’sPlayboy mansion with Jenny McCarthy.

Emcee Tony Danza, joked, “Yeah, that night we’ll giveyou a video of Jenny McCarthy.” Much to his chagrin,McCarthy had to bow out as mistress of ceremonies andsent along two videos in her absence.

Others were live and kicking. Before presenting anaward to Couric for her NBC report on teenage sex, DonnyDeutsch, chief executive officer of Deutsch Inc. and host ofCNBC’s “The Big Idea With Donny Deutsch,” made men-tion of her using plants on the “Today” set to hide her legs.“That’s not true,” Couric blurted from her table.

Before the festivities, TV host Joan Lunden went to bat forCouric, who was criticized in a recent New York Times arti-cle about the management shakeup at “Today’’ and the pro-gram’s declining lead over ABC’s “Good Morning, America.’’

“They crossed the line,’’ she said. “It seems to be thepattern with the media in this country. They’re there tobuild you up. But when you get there, they look for an op-portunity to take a shot at you, particularly when someoneis in a position with so much responsibility and so ad-mired. I think it was just a really cheap shot.”

In terms of “The Event to Prevent,” Lunden, who hasseven children including two sets of twins from surrogatemothers, said she wanted to support the cause. “Thank good-ness there are good messages like these and good programs.Young kids these days are exposed to so much.”

— Rosemary Feitelberg

WWD.COM

By Julie Naughton

NEW YORK — Elizabeth Arden, Inc.said Wednesday that it has entered into aco-marketing agreement with specialtypharmaceutical firm Allergan, that itwill do a second Britney Spears scent,and released third-quarter earnings.

Allergan, which also manufacturesBotox, introduced Prevage — a skin careproduct with 1 percent idebenone, a ben-zoquinone compound that is said to be apowerful topical antioxidant — in Januaryto physicians. Under the agreement,Arden will market a version containing 0.5percent, or half the original potency, inprestige department and specialty storesbeginning in early 2006, said E. ScottBeattie, chairman and chief executive offi-cer of Elizabeth Arden Inc. A repackagedversion of the original-strength product, tobe dubbed Prevage MD, will bow in physi-cians’ offices this fall.

Arden’s research and developmentstaff and Allergan’s scientists will worktogether on the new formulation. Beattiesaid marketing, promotion and manufac-turing all will be done jointly. The twoalso will jointly develop additionalPrevage products, though Beattiedeclined to give further details.

All of the products developed under thisdeal will be marketed under the Prevagebrand name at retail, rather than the

Elizabeth Arden name, and the two willhave separate retail counters. “Allerganhas a long history in the dermatology chan-nel of skin care and a leading marketshare,” said Beattie. “We believe it makessense to combine the tremendous attrib-utes of both of our companies to deliver ablockbuster product to the market.”

While Beattie emphasized that suchdetails as final pricesand door counts are stillbeing worked out, he didsay the Prevage productsin prestige distribution will be “premium-priced.” While he wouldn’t quantify that,sources said price tags on the productslikely would be north of $150. Prevage’slargest group of users likely will fall in the35- to 60-year-old age range.

Beattie hopes to take the productsinto “upscale distribution” globally,including both specialty stores in theU.S. and in European pharmacies.

Elizabeth Park, senior vice presidentof global marketing, skin care and colorcosmetics for Elizabeth Arden, noted thatthere is still “tremendous opportunity” inthe derm segment of the business, whichsources said generated $50 million overallin the U.S. in 2004. The skin care marketin the U.S. is estimated at upward of $1.6billion in retail sales yearly. “Consumersare getting far more sophisticated interms of skin care,” she said. “They want

maximum efficacy.” Both men and womenwill be targeted as users, she added.

Additionally, in September, ElizabethArden will follow up its best-sellingCurious Britney Spears fragrance with anew women’s scent. While Beattierefused to give further details except tosay that a commercial featuring the preg-nant pop princess is already in the can, he

did say that he expects itto do “as well or better”than the first scent.According to Timra

Carlson, president of NPDBeauty, a division of theNPD Group, Curious,launched lastSeptember, did $36 mil-lion in its first fourmonths on counter andranked in the top 10 inwomen’s fragrancesoverall last year. “I havebeen very impressedwith the deals and theproducts which have come outof the Arden organization, and Ihave no doubt that this will be anotherwinner,” said Carlson.

Meanwhile, Arden’s expansion ofCurious overseas and into the travelretail segment along with its ongoingstrength in the U.S. propelled top-linegrowth for the beauty company, which

swung to a profit in its third quarter.For the period ended March 31, the

company posted a profit of $5.6 million,or 19 cents a diluted share, which com-pares with a loss of $10.5 million, or 46cents a share, in the prior year. Net salesswelled 9 percent in the quarter to$198.3 million from $182.2 million in theyear prior.

Arden’s gross margin rate alsoimproved, climbing to 48.3 percent in themost recent quarter from 45.8 percent inthe prior-year period.

The rollout of Curious to interna-tional and travel retail markets guid-ed the sales growth in the third quar-

ter, the company said.Beattie said he was

pleased with results andtold investors that Curious

“was the number one launchin U.S. department stores during

the 2004 holiday season andremains a top 10 fragrance.”

For the nine-month peri-od, net income came in at

$42.1 million, or $1.41 a share,which compares with a loss of $8.9

million, or 41 cents a share, in the priorperiod. Sales for the first three quartersrose 8 percent to $733.4 million from$677.4 million.

— With contributions from Amy S. Choi

12 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2005

BEAUTY BEAT

Jewel and

Ashlee

Simpson

Jane

Fonda

Rosie

O’Donnell

Mark Badgley

and James Mischka

Celebs Sound Off at Candie’s Event

Arden Teams With Allergan, Sets 2nd Spears Scent

PHOT

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Y JO

HN C

ALAB

RESE

Curious Britney Spears

13WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2005FL

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TheWWDListWWD.COM

Talented NationsThe 10 most creative countries, ranked by the Global Creativity Index.

1

3

5

7

9

2

4

6

8

UNITED STATESCreativity index: 66.6Richard Florida’s book, “The Flight of the Creative Class,” argues the point that the U.S. is losing much of its creative talent to other countries. Still,the nation is recognized as part of the top 10. “New York alone cranks out a larger gross economic output than all of Russia,” Florida said. “It is one ofthe biggest drivers of the U.S.’s powerhouse economy — fashionable services, products and ideas have so much to do with that.”

ICELANDCreativity index: 61.2In Iceland, creativity is ingrained in residents at an early age, and thus, it has no problem retaining talent. A subject of the national curriculum is“Innovation Education,” a teaching method that is used to encourage children to discover their own solutions, invent new objects and redesign objectsthat already exist. An added bonus: Life expectancy is high here, thanks to a low infant mortality rate, a fish-based diet and excellent health care.

SWITZERLANDCreativity index: 63.7Beautiful people, beautiful land, beautiful products. Companies in Switzerland have created fantastic and timeless lines of watches, including Rolexand Tag Heuer. Rolex, based in Geneva, was founded in 1905 and has been credited with making the wristwatch a popular accessory. To this day, manyof its products are still made by hand.

FINLANDCreativity index: 68.4Finnish residents are known for taking pride in the architectural design of their buildings and structures. This year has been declared “Design YearFinland,” in order to promote the importance and potential that the industry has to boost trade and business. The celebration lasts throughout 2005and includes hundreds of events in Finland and worldwide, with exhibitions, a competition and a design forum.

NETHERLANDSCreativity index: 61.1From a creative education comes a creative way of thinking: The Netherlands is populated with numerous design schools, including the RotterdamAcademy of Architecture, AMFI Amsterdam Fashion Institute and Gerrit Rietveld Academie (which houses graphic design, theater and stage designprograms, among others).

DENMARKCreativity index: 61.3Danish design can be compared with the Danish lifestyle: laid-back and liberating. Architecture is hugely popular in this country, population 5,413,392.Danes have created famous structures such as the Sydney Opera House in Australia (Jørn Utzon), arguably one of the most recognizable buildings inthe world. Other notables include: La Grande Arche in Paris (Johan Otto von Spreckelsen) and St. Catherine’s College, in Oxford, U.K. (Arne Jacobsen).

JAPANCreativity index: 76.6Japan, the land of innovation and technology, also breeds plenty of well-known fashion designers, known for cutting-edge innovations. Names such asIssey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garçons and Junya Watanabe all hail from Japan and push the envelope every season.

SWEDENCreativity index: 80.8Think Ikea. Think H&M. Think Volvo and Saab. Creative companies such as Ikea, a home furnishings retail chain, roll out products that are appealing— in design, function and price. The Helsingborg, Sweden, retailer currently has more than 200 stores in 30-plus countries. Stockholm’s retail giant,H&M, unveiled its fall clothing collection in New York’s Central Park in April: It consisted of heavy knits, tweeds and balloon skirts, WWD said.

NORWAYCreativity index: 59.5Norway, the fifth Scandinavian nation on the list, has an agency dedicated to the creative development of the country: Innovation Norway was formedin January 2004 by combining the Norwegian Government Consultative Office for Inventors, the Norwegian Industrial and Regional DevelopmentFund, the Norwegian Trade Council and the Norwegian Tourist Board. It helps develop small and medium-sized entrepreneurial and innovative firms.

GERMANYCreativity index: 57.7From Volkswagens and Benzes to Karl Lagerfeld and Jil Sander, Germany is well represented in both the fashion and design industries. Germanyprides itself on quality and functionalism — seen in much of its industrial design — and the fashion scene is much more discreet than other countries,focusing more on classic and clear styles.

10

SOURCE: RICHARD FLORIDA CREATIVITY GROUP’S GLOBAL CREATIVITY INDEX

The philosophy: The more creative a nation is, the more potential that nation has foreconomic growth. The Richard Florida Creativity Group has compiled an indexranking countries based on three measures: talent, technology and tolerance. Inaddition to innovators such as scientists, professors and artists, the fashion anddesign industries make up a huge portion of economic growth. The index arguesthat economic value comes not just from raw materials, but also from the design oraesthetic content behind those materials. “The fashion industry is perhaps the bestexample of value creation and consumption,” said Richard Florida, founder of thegroup. Below, a breakdown of the top 10 countries and what they are doingcreatively that could be helping to motivate their economies. — Cecily Hall

NEW YORK — It was at a meeting in New Zealand with Peter Jackson, director ofthe “Lord of the Rings” trilogy and the upcoming remake of “King Kong,” thatsparked best-selling author and economist Richard Florida’s idea of creative talentin the global sense and led him to analyze countries by their creative value.

Whether creativity can have an impact on a country’s economic outlook is becom-ing a matter of fast debate. Florida, author of “The Flight of the Creative Class” andhis organization, the Richard Florida Creativity Group, have devised the GlobalCreativity Index, which ranks countries’ creativity levels by three specific measures.They are: talent (percent of the workforce employed in the creative sectors and per-cent of citizens with bachelor’s degrees), technology (innovation — patents per capi-ta and percent of national GDP spent on research and development) and tolerance(openness to self-expression, alternative lifestyles and social diversity).

The index, presented on a scale of 1 to 100 (100 being the most creative), doesn’tjust look at raw productivity data to decipher a country’s economic state. It also as-sesses the motivators and people behind companies and ideas, arguing that eco-nomic value comes directly from those motivators.

But Frank Lichtenberg, professor of finance and economics at ColumbiaUniversity, would rather see the study combined with hard labor statistics. “Thisindex is really capturing something,” agreed Lichtenberg. “But in order to be mosteffective and persuasive, why not correlate it with rates of economic growth, orother measurable variables that will support these countries’ rankings?”

Florida acknowledged his creativity group has been talking with internationalgovernments as well as other types of organizations to correlate the index withlarger economic analyses. But, he stressed: “Our third measure is the factor thatother indices don’t have at this time. Countries need to measure tolerance — open-ness toward alternative lifestyles and minorities — this will ultimately draw moreforeign talent.”

Creativity: The Next Economic Indicator?

14 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2005

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Showrooms or Offices 500-2,850 Sq Ft.Starting at $26 per sq ft.

Units have light on all sides.Allen (212) 868-1515 or (917) 299-1064

Honduras FactoryHonduras Apparel Factory, extremelyversatile equipment & personnel, ex-perienced management in place, turnkey operation, WRAP Certified, will beable to benefit from CAFTA. Currentlysewing knits & woven garments. Formore info, please E-mail or fax:e: fact4sale@aol.com / f: 516-505-1370

PATTERN/SAMPLESReliable. High quality. Low cost. Fastwork. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808

PATTERNS, SAMPLES,PRODUCTIONS

All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service.Call Sherry 212-719-0622.

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PATTERNS, SAMPLES,PRODUCTIONS

Full servcie shop to the trade.Fine fast work. 212-869-2699.

PTTNS/SMPLS/PRODHigh qlty, reasonable price. Any

design & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186

Exciting DESIGN Opportunity Available!We are looking for a Creative Partner;A force in contemporary design who canthink outside the box. All elements arein place...All we need is you! Pleasecall or Fax to Adam or Rebecca at:Tel: 212-921-5511 / Fax: 212-921-5515

Account Executive/Merchandiser

Large NYC Intimate Ap-parel Company seeksstrong acct. executive/merchandiser w/ strongcontacts w/ mass retail-ers. Will be responsiblefor spearheading growthand product develop-ment. All resumes heldin strict confidence.

Fax resumes to:201-868-6525.

ADMIN/SALESASST/FRONT DESK

Accessory Co. seeks reliable, persona-ble, multi-tasked individual to work inquick paced atmosphere. Good com-puter skills in Word, Excel and E-mail.Resp. for phones, corresp. & gen.office duties. Fax resume: 212-302-2753

ADMIN SINCE 1967

W-I-N-S-T-O-NAPPAREL STAFFING

DESIGN * SALES * MERCHADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION

(212) 557-5000 F:(212) 986-8437

Allocator/ShippingCoordinator

NYC knitwear co. seeks exp’d personresponsible for allocation & ordermaintenance, follow up on price tickets& assist credit department. Also, assistsales in shipping follow up / customerservice. Knowledge in QRS & EDI.Fax Resume: 212-398-2225

ARTISIT NEEDEDGraphic Artist needed for BabywearCo. to work w/ designers to createartwork for prints, appliques &embroideries, presentation boards,and prod. pkg. Photoshop + Illustratorskills a must. Fast paced enviornment.Must be able to meet deadlines.

Fax resume to 212-695-0203. Email:florah@bonbebewworld.com

Assistant to GMM High End Retail Company seeks can-didate with merchandising backgroundto assist the GMM in all daily functions.Must be extremely organized, detailoriented & able to multi-task. Excellentopportunity to work in a team orientedenviornment. Please fax resume to:

212.202.6297

Earth Tones Trading CompanyA licensed branded apparel manufacturer, including JohnDeere, is seeking a highly motivated, energetic, well organ-ized individual to join our team of dedicated professionals.Our team is strong in building customer relationships &willing to "roll up the sleeves" & do what is necessary to getthe job done right.

DIVISION MANAGERFull P&L responsibility for the operating performance of thedivision. Lead the merchandising, production & sales processfor all product categories. Will develop & execute sales &merchandising strategies, monitor industry trends, marketconditions & competition in relation to their products and/orservices. REQ: 10+ yrs of general merchandising & sales expin apparel industry, w/ B.A. degree, proven leader in build-ing effective teams & working with cross-functional teams,projects & budgets.

SALES MANAGERManage sales reps for all product lines. Exp in individual &territorial sales performance, launch of new products, &working closely with operations & sourcing to accomplishoverall company sales goals. Will develop & execute salesstrategy, monitor industry trends, market conditions &competition in relation to their products and/or services.REQ: 10+ years of sales exp directly related to apparelindustry, w/ B.A. degree, working knowledge of sales mgt,sales planning & goal setting, demonstrated ability to negoti-ate, close, effectively prioritize & handle multiple priorities,proven ability to manage people, projects & budgets.

For consideration, E-mail resume toDarren@impulsewear.com, or fax to 614-575-1163

Relocation and full benefit package available.Positions based in Columbus, Ohio.

ASSOCIATEDESIGNER

Danskin, Inc., well est’d active apparelcompany seeking a dynamic AssociateDesigner to create variety of apparelproducts for licensed mass marketbrand. 2-3 years related experience &apparel design degree, Adobe illustrator& Photo Shop skills required. Must havestrong sketching ability, knowl. ofgarment construction & specs, excellentorganizational & communication skills.Competitive comp & benefits package.Please, send resumes with salaryhistory to:

hr_new_york@danskin.com orFax to 212-930-9103 EOE/M/F/V

CAD ARTIST $65K70% Working on CAD

30% Work as Assist DesignerToddWayne1@aol.com Call 212-947-3400

CAD ARTISTEstab childrenswear co. seeks CADartist w/min 3 years related exp.Strong Illustrator and Photoshop skillsreqd. Creative, w/production back-ground preferred. Email resume to:

dwilson@tawil .com

COLOR SPECIALISTNeed established color pro for missymoderate sportswear company to docolor approvals for woven, knits andtrims in private label and branded di-visions. Must be extrememly organ-ized and have a minimum of 3-5 yearsexperience. Fax cover letter and re-sume which must include salary re-quirements to 212-704-0576

Customer Service RepAkademiks, a rapidly growing Men’sand Women’s Apparel Co., seeks a selfmotivated applicant with 2 years exp. incustomer service to fill a key role in thedepartment. Knowledge of Blue Cherrya plus. Please fax resume Attn: Jackie

212-563-0581

Design

ASSISTANT DESIGNERLeading Better Separates Co. looking fororganized, motivated, and creative fire-cracker willing to do whatever it takes.Must have drawing skills, spec, sketch,technical packages, EMB layouts. PleaseFax resume to Natasha @ 212-302-3872

DESIGNERMIAMI, FL

Leading Golf & Tennis Co. seeks veryorganized, creative person with 3-5 yearsexp., preferably in Active Sportswear.Computer graphics preferred. Freelancepossible; F/T opportunity. Fax/Email to:305-633-7439 / elizabethl@tailinc.com

DESIGNER--OUTERWEARN/I/T Boy/Girl Mac IllustratorGreat Company and Salary.

Call Barbara Murphy: (212) 643-8090 (agcy)

Designers-Boys $40-$75KAssistant/Assoc./Designer

Computer SkillsJanet*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878

JanetStevens@justmgmt.com

Designer (Senior)KNITWEAR

Established, sophisticated contemporaryknitwear co. seeks an innovative, trendconscious, & quality oriented individual.Original design & technical knowledgerequired. Some travel to Europe & Asia.

E-mail: lysasomers@yahoo.com

DESIGNERSPORTSWEAR

Major public apparel co. seeks candidateto create moderate contemporaryseparates with 5+ years exp. Must havea strong background in woven & knitsbottoms, skirts, & jackets. The ability toidentify emerging trends & silhouettes.Must possess great color, print, &pattern sense w/the understanding offabrics. Must be organized, detail-oriented, able to meet deadlines, & bea team player. Must have computerskills. Position in BOSTON Hdqtrswith excellent salary & benefits.

Fax resumes to HR: 617-332-3260

Designer

Sr. DesignerSweater & Tee Shirt

Contemporary Sweater Co seekstalented designer w/ combination ofhighly creative mind & technicalknowledge of knit construction.Responsible for the collection’s trend,color, yarn direction & oversee allaspects of design development. Musthave 10 yrs design exp. Requires exten-sive exp working w/ China. Must beproficient in computer graphic systems.An exciting oppty to work in a growingstable co. Pls fax resume: 212-221-8556

DESIGNERSweaters/Knits

Ultra contemporary, young designer co.seeks a Designer/Trend Consultant tolead the way! We offer a dynamic, cooland fun work environment.

Please fax resume to: 212-575-1781

DESIGN - FreelanceExp’d. Pro needed for 3 month project.Missy/Contemporary; Knits & WovensImport. Creative, technical & follow-upskills a must. Fax or E-mail resumes to:

212-944-1482designerhead@hotmail.com

MERCHANDISING PRODUCTION MGRMajor public sportswear co.doing branded and privatelabel seeks an experiencedindividual with 5+ yrs exp.to be liaison between design,tech, fabric, and productiondepts. Coordinating productdevelopment and negotiatingcosting a must. The ability tolead, direct and motivate astaff to insure timely delivery& execute large volumeprograms. Exp. in woven &knit product w/the knowledgeof garment construction.Background in retail buying& planning helpful. Positionin BOSTON hdqtrs.Excellent Salary & Benefits.

Fax Resume HR:617-332-3260

Dynamic Store ManagerLF is one of the newest boutique retail-ers in contemporary women’s fashion.We are seeking experience, dynamic "A"players with an entrepreneurial mindset to run our 5th Ave. NYC business(also accepting resumes for Los Angelesarea). Understanding of LF product,networking, event planning, team-building, clienteleing, and merchan-dising are a must. Competitive salaryplus full health benefits.

Candidates should submit a coverletter explaining why they make agood candidate for LF as well as a

detailed resume with salary historyto E-mail: JOBS@LFSTORES.COM

or Fax: (213) 746-3568We invite you to visit our store

location prior to applying.150 5th Avenue, New York

EDI Coordinator/Customer Service

Children’s import apparel company seeksindividual with thorough understandingof EDI implementation & procedures

(GE Software). The individual will alsobe responsible for order entry, billing &

customer service. Must be detail oriented& possess strong computer & commu-

nication skills. Please send resumewith salary requirements,Attn. Arlene (212) 714-0460

Fabric CoordinatorFast paced womenswear manufacturerseeks fabric manager to handle fabricdevelopment. Must have min 2 yrs expin imports, have contacts with fabricmills in Europe and Asia, and be com-puter literate.

Fax resume to Debbie 212-302-3318

Graphic DesignerWomen’s apparel manufacturer seeksperson to design company monthlylook books and line sheets. Must beproficient in Illustrator and Photoshop.Photography skills a big plus.

Fax resume to Nanette 212-302-3318

KORAMSAMajor Denim Manufacturer is looking

for the following positions based inLos Angeles and Guatemala.

HEAD PATTERNMAKERS(Guatemala)

Individual must be organized, experi-enced in people management, negotia-tions with overseas clients, monitortime and action plan. Knowledge ofconstruction of prototypes requiredand production knowledge preferred.Pattern knowledge of shrinkage appli-cation and adjustments for denim.Minimum of 5 yrs. experience in man-agement and 7 yeas experience inpatternmaking. Knowledge of theGerber system preferred and computerskills (Word, Excel, Outlook, etc.).Relocation to Guatemala required.

PATTERNMAKERS(Los Angeles and Guatemala)

Multiple positions available. Minimumof 5 years of denim experience. Createfirst through production patterns,working with designers/full packageclient’s on fitting garments to achievelook and fit, correcting patterns for fitapproval and production. Strong abili-ty to drape and creating from sketch amust. Knowledge of production sewingconstruction and grading preferred.Experienced with Gerber PDS Silhou-ette preferred.

Applicants for the positions based inGuatemala must be bilingual in Spanish.

Please send resumes to: E-MAIL: koramsajobs@verizon.net

or FAX: (310) 828.0273

ARTVP/SENIOR DIRECTOR

50M Imprinted Apparel Co.in New Jersey seeks SeniorArt Director to manage 6Art directors and 30 artists.Must be an experiencedand powerful creative leader& visionary, w/an in depthunderstanding and passionfor the retail marketplace.Confidentiality Assured.

Fax: 832-565-5298apartdirector@yahoo.com

LICENSING DIRECTORMajor branded denim com-pany with sales in excess of100M seeks Licensing direc-tor with minimum 5 yrs ex-perience acquiring andworking with licensors togrow the brand. Must bemotivated,excellent commu-nicator. Great opportunity.salary commensurate withexperience.

Fax resume to HR @212-719-1521

Merchandise Analyst Luxury Retail Company seeks candi-date to allocate merchandise. Dutieswill also include coordinating inter-storetransfer of goods & running analysisreports. Must have a merchandisingbackground & be proficient in excel.Excellent opportunity for growth.

Please fax resume to: 212 -202-6297

MIS director to $100K. Current exp inwarehouse/distribution. Warehouse mgmtsoftware, RF, Oracle, HP-UX, Windows.Central NJ co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy.

Production Assistant Estab dress manufacturer looking fordetail oriented motivated indiv. Towork in Production department. Musthave exp in Import. Knowledge ofChinese language and Excel is a plus.

Fax resumes to H.R. : 212-944-2123

Production Coord.Private Label

Well-known, high-end private labelsweater mfr and importer has positionavail for organized, detail-oriented per-son w/ 4-6 yrs exp dealing w/ retailers,wholesalers and catalog companies.Must be computer savvy. Great opptyfor personal and professional growthexp. Benefits, good working atmos-phere. Please email resume to:

hr@ny.dzgroup.com

Production/Design Asst.Major sourcing / production / importsweater co. has entry level positionavailable. Fax resume to 212-391-5800.

Production ManagerMajor Ladies Sportswear Co., seeks anindividual w/5 years min. exp. to workw/Designer & Sales; include preparingcutting tickets / cost calculation / fabric& trim purchase. Must be detail orientedw/excellent follow-up in all phases ofproduction w/China factory. BilingualMandarin / English a must. Please Faxresume to: 212-967-8018

Production Mgr.Ladies bridge suit house needs exp.technical production mgr./coordinatorfor overseas & domestic. comp. know is amust. Fax resume to: (212) 869-5393

Retail AnalystLeading children’s wear importerseeks a retail analyst to track Sales byCustomer, including style selling andsell-thrus, and to monitor Sales Plans,including IMU’s and Gross margins.Must have strong organizational andcomputer skills. E-mail resume to:

employment@happykids.com

SALES ASSISTANT

HOT KISSFast paced Jr. sptswr. co. seeks highlymotivated Sales Assistant with strong

computer and organizational skills.Ability to multi-task. Room foradvancement. Please e-mail:

marsha@hotkiss.net

WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2005 15

By Kristi Ellis

WASHINGTON — The HouseNew Democrat Coalition took atough stance against the CentralAmerican Free Trade Agreementon Wednesday, citing concernsfor workers’ rights and calling onthe Bush administration to rene-gotiate what they claimed is aflawed pact.

Those opposed to CAFTA arestating their case as the Presi-dent gets ready to send the agree-ment to Congress for approval.

Four leaders of the 42-mem-ber House coalition said at apress conference on Capitol Hillthat CAFTA “rolls back” workers’rights protections that alreadyexist in the Caribbean BasinTrade Preference Act, and notedthe administration’s budget pri-orities “undermine efforts” toprovide assistance to U.S. work-ers displaced by trade.

The coalition traditionally hasbeen pro-trade and has support-ed other pacts, such as the NorthAmerican Free Trade Agreement.

Rep. Ellen O. Tauscher (D.,Calif.) said, “All trade agreementsare not created equal. Clearly, inthis circumstance, we have coun-tries…that have the lowest thresh-

old of labor laws, a history of notbeing able to enforce those laws,and they need money and capaci-ty-building in order to do that. Wedon’t believe we’ve gotten the bestdeal we can get for workers inthose countries, and there is virtu-ally nothing for workers here inthe U.S., including having [TradeAdjustment Assistance] moneyslashed every year.”

The TAA program offers en-hanced unemployment benefitsfor workers who lose their jobsdue to imports.

The four House lawmakers,who also sent a letter to Bush onWednesday, had a laundry list ofcomplaints about CAFTA and ad-monished the administration fornot reaching out to the coalitionfor input.

However, a spokeswoman forthe Office of the U.S. Trade Rep-resentative said after the pressconference, “We’ve had numerousmeetings specifically targeting thenew Democrats,” and said theymet with coalition co-chair Rep.Adam Smith (D., Wash.) twice.

The administration recentlyhas self-initiated a review ofthree Chinese apparel and textileexport categories as part of thesafeguard process for possible

quota restraints, and accepted forreview industry safeguard peti-tions. These are moves that manytrade experts said were meant togarner support from textile-statelawmakers for CAFTA.

Tauscher said, “We don’twant this to be a typical WhiteHouse, West Wing, QVC situa-tion where it is ‘What can I getfor you, what can I buy for you,’in exchange for a CAFTA vote.”

Democratic lawmakers andunion activists assert CAFTA doesnot abide by core standards estab-lished by the International LaborOrganization, such as allowingcollective bargaining, enforcingminimum wage requirements,eliminating child labor and dis-crimination in the workforce.

In a statement circulated atthe press conference, new U.S.Trade Representative RobertPortman said: “Now that I havebeen confirmed, I look forward toreaching out to Democrats to dis-cuss the clear benefits of theCentral American-DominicanRepublic agreement to U.S.workers, farmers and serviceproviders, and to make clear howthe agreement can improve laborconditions in Central Americaand the Dominican Republic.”

House Group Assails CAFTA Labor ProvisionsWWD.COM

KNITTED MOVES: Designer Fabio Piras apparently is headed to Malo, theknitwear company owned by IT Holding that is looking to round out its tried-and-true array of fluffy, colorful and luxurious sweaters with more tailoredwear and accessories. According to a source, Piras is negotiating his newcontract after leaving Brioni, the Italian tailoring firm. A Malo spokeswomandeclined to comment.

LONG LIVE THE QUEEN: Sofia Coppola and her cast and crew, filming a movieabout Marie Antoinette in and around Paris, moved to a new locationSaturday night: the fashion hangout Dave. But it wasn’t to film any scenes.Instead, Coppola threw a party for star Kirsten Dunst in honor of her 23rdbirthday. Toasts were made to Dunst as she chomped on her spareribs. Asfor dessert, Dave let them eat cake.

COCO LOCO: The Chanel exhibition at theCostume Institute of the MetropolitanMuseum of Art has translated into atorrent of exceptional press in France. Forexample, Stiletto magazine is publishing aspecial all-Chanel issue, hittingnewsstands today, as it is May 5 (five isfamously a lucky number for the house).Published in seven languages, it containsfashion shoots by Karl Lagerfeld in NewYork and Paris, interviews with Chanelexecutives and a behind-the-scenes lookat the making of lipstick. To celebrate theissue, models dressed in Chanel visorsand messenger bags will distribute themagazine on the street in New York and Los Angeles today.

Meanwhile, Europe’s Arte channel is airing a five-part seriesdocumenting the creation of Lagerfeld’s couture collection last July.Shot by Paris journalist Loic Prigent, it charts the process from inceptionto runway.

Fashion Scoops

Stiletto’s Chanel issue.

Sample MakersOuterwear

NYC Apparel Company seeks exp’douterwear sample makers w/ compre-hensive knowledge of construction ofgarments. Candidates should haveprevious experience working withvarious types of detailed outerwearand be able to meet deadlines withproficiency. We offer a competitivesalary with a full benefits package.

Please fax resume to: (212) 894-7301

Senior PatternmakerQualified candidates must have a verystrong technical background plus 10 yrsexperience working with designers. Mustbe skilled in drapping, soft constructedpieces and constructed jackets.

Email resumes with salary req’s to:dperez@catherinemalandrino.com

Showroom AssistantEst’d. Men’s Apparel Co. is seeking anassistant for our New York sales office.Candidate must have excellent verbal &written skills w/strong attention to detail.He/she is proficient in Microsoft Office.Duties include phones, correspondence,and general office duties. Team orientedsetting w/career growth opportunitiesin sales. Fax resume to: 212-398-9302

SPEC TECHNICIANHUNTINGTON, LI

Person must have thorough knowledgeof garment construction, patterns, andspecing ability. Must be extremely detailoriented, computer literate with Excel& work at a fast pace. Excellent Benefits,Salary commensurate with experience.

Please fax resume to: (631) 673-6744or Email: VivianR@vital-apparel.com

Tech Designer /Sweater Associate

Missy/Junior/Kids Sweater Co seeksindiv able to create details, developspec/prod’n pkg/graded spec. Under-stand full fashion & domestic sweater.Must communicate daily with Asia.Photoshop & Illustrator skills, etc.

E-mail: mattmanfed@aol.com

Technical DesignerImmediate opening with private labelsportswear co. technical design dept.must have knowledge of construction,specs, patterns. Must have very goodorganizational skills and be proficientin Excel. Experience with majordiscounters preferred.For consideration please fax resume

with salary requirementsAtt. George 212 329-0853

Technical Designer - Knits5+ yrs exp w/ bridge knit incl. sketch-ing, layouts, spec & fittings; assistwith color lab dip approvals. Highlyorganized, accurate & detail orientedwith knowledge of garment construc-tion and able to work in a fast-pacedteam env. Req good communication &follow-up skills. Knowledge of WebPDM & IGRAFX and fit exp helpful.PC proficiency in MS environment aplus. EOE. Fax resume w/ salary reqsto Vivian @ (212) 764-9210 or E-mail:hr@iwaweb.com

Technical DesignerLeading children’s wear importerseeks an experienced tech designerwith knowledge of garment construc-tion and developing specs. Must havestrong communication, organizationaland computer skills. E-mail resume to:

employment@happykids.com

Technical Designer P/TEst’d denim jeans company seeks detailoriented person with 5 yrs. min. denimexp. Must be capable of preparing de-tailed tech paks for prod’n, evaluatewashes, spec garments & conduct fittingswith the ability to communicate changes.

Please fax resume to: (212) 575-7860

Traffic ManagerStar Ride Kids. Estbl’d children’s wearimporter seeks exp’d individual tocoordinate import shipments & out-bound orders. 3-5 yrs exp. rqr’d w/ appa-rel imports, freight bookings, customsbrokers, truckers & warehouses. Youwill: coordinate import and customsclearance of shipments & following upw/ our warehouse to insure orders areshipped out on time. Candidate must bedetail oriented, have excellent follow-upskills, & be able to work independently.Great opportunity & benefits package.Please email resume w/ salary require-ments to: CareerNY@Yahoo.com

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVEAggressive Women’s Apparel Co. thatspecializes in European designed knitsweaters, novelty tees and denim hasan exciting opportunity available in ourNY showroom. Must have 3-5 years exp.with contacts in major/specialty stores.Salary, incentives and/or commission.

Fax or email resume Attn: Ronen(954) 965-4443 / careers@yukaparis.com

Sales AssistantModerateEveningwear Com-pany seeks experienced, ag-gressive and motivated selfstarter for sales asst positionin NYC. Must be organizedand detail-oriented for diversi-fied duties in day to day salesops; great oppty to advance !MS-Office proficient.Send resumes and salary

requirements tosalesasst@gmail.com orvia fax to 212-764- 8967

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVEMAXX NEW YORK HANDBAGS isseeking experienced, energetic, indi-vidual to join our specialty stores salesteam. Candidate must be familiar withour product and be able to immediatelymanage and maintain accounts on alllevels. Handbag experience required.

Pls fax resume: 212-679-0311

Account ExecutivePL Co. seeks a Key Acct. Sales Personin the US for private label woven. Musthave strong contacts w/buyers in themid-tier & specialty store arena, andproven ability to execute sales. Jrs.,Missy, and Men’s experience will beconsidered. Fax resume: 323-587-3293

Couture Knit Mfr.Seeking Sales Rep for showroom & trunkshows. Must be exp’d. with high-endSpecialty Stores and must bring ownaccounts. Fax resume: 212-570-9521

JUNIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVEGreat opportunity available for multiline designer showroom. Wholesale exp.preferred. Please email resumes to:

chrislim@circleshowroom.com

Off Price Sales ProfessionalWholsaler seeking for aggressiveoutside sales pro w/ established

contacts w/ chains & dept. stores5 years exp. Fax resume 212-944-1087

SALES EXECUTIVEFor new Juniors Jeanswear line.

Must have exp, reference, knowledge ofbuilding brands. Great oppty. & benefits.

Please email: salesexec05@aol.com

SALES EXECUTIVEGrowing women’s contemporary sportswear company is seeking an experienced& ambitious Sales Exec. with strongties to specialty & department stores.Pls. fax your resume to (212) 354 6052

or E-mail: alarashirt@gmail.com

SALES - Junior/MissyEstablished sportwear importer hasopening in NYC showroom for sales

person / rep / team for junior & missylines. Must have proven track record

and strong following with majors.Please fax resume in confidence to

(212) 575-5311 or Call JJ (631) 697-3342

SALES PROFESSIONALMen’s & Women’s apparel company

specializing in closeouts seeks SalesPro who has strong contact with Dept.

stores & Chain stores. NYC based.Please fax resume, attn. Moucki @

(818) 906-2835

Sales Pro’sA Nationaly branded Women’s Active

Line seeks two aggressive experiencedSales Pro’s for NY & LA Showrooms.

Please fax resume 714-890-3126

SENIORSALESPERSON

At Last Sportswear, Inc.Established missy dress and seperatescompany seeks an energetic and moti-vated sales professional with currentfollowing. We have a strong label and agreat product. Come join a great team!

Please send resume Attn: HRFax: 201-867-8541 Email: hr@atlast.us

TIBILeading young Designer Co., Tibi, isseeking an ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE fortheir Soho showroom. Candidate mustbe enthusiastic, have contemporary salesexperience, and existing relationshipswith Boutiques and Specialty Dept.stores. Please Fax resume and salaryrequirements to: 212-966-2961

JR./CONTEMP. MGRLester’s Greenvale / Roslyn locationneeds Mgr. for its trendy, hi-fashion,Jr. & Contemp. dept. Candidate musthave min. 2 yrs. mgt. exp, excellentsales, cust. service, & merchandisingskills, & feel the pulse of trendy fashion.Fantastic oppt with incentives & bene-fits. References req’d. Fax / E-mail Steve:718/627-3974 / Stever@lestersclothing.com

STORE MANAGERMadison Avenue Store

Very experienced with minimum of 5yrs experience in women’s designerclothing. Exceptional people skills atcustomer and staff levels. Client follow-ing preferred. Please email:

madison manager@yahoo.com

CALIFORNIA SUNSHINE ACTIVEWEARan Official Licensee of

PLAYBOYGREAT OPPORTUNITY

We are looking to add to our current Sales Team aggressiveACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

with 3 to 4 years experience and strong contacts with Major & SpecialtyStores. Knowledge of Urban Accounts a plus! Territories needed are:

Mid-Atlantic • Rockies • NorthwestMulti-line Reps are OK • Competitive Commissions

All inquiries kept confidential. Please Fax or E-mail resumes to:323-235-2727 / smccrorie@calsuns.com

Missy/Plus Swim SalesCZ Cover Ups Seek Motivated REPSfor Missy/Plus SWIM 2006 Collection.Spec Store & Regional Mkt EXP aMUST. Key Territories Available.

Call Andy/Jan 212-398-1445

Manager AvailableData processing, Cust svc & Ofc mgmt.Seeking F/T position. 25 yrs exp withexcellent references. Call 718-564-4882.

ROAD REPS WANTEDNC Sock Mfr. needs Independent Repsto sell new sock lines to Dept./SpecialtyStores and majors in their area. Seekingexp’d. reps in: Chicago & Dallas markets -selling areas would include, IL., OH.,IN., KY.,TX., OK., KS., NM., LA., andAR. Call or Fax resume to:Tel: 864-595-0108 / Fax: 828-327-3083

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