Simple Colour and weave effect

1 End & end coloring

Repeat or weave 1/1

Order of coloringwarping and wefting 1:1 x

x#

2 Continuous line

Repeat or weave 2/2 z xx

Order of coloring #warping and wefing 2:2

3Hair line or pin strape

Repeat or weave 2/2 2 xx

Order of coloring x xwarping and wefing 2:2 x x

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4Crows foot pattern

A xx x

Repeat or weave 1/1 xx x

Order of coloring #warping and wefting 2:2

B

Repeat or weave 1/ 2/2

Order of coloring warping and wefting 2 4:4

xx x

5 x xDog's tooth & hound's tooth x

xRepeat or weave 2/2 z x x

x xOrder of coloring xwarping and wefting 4:4 #

6 xShephered's check pattern x x

x xRepeat or weave 2/2 z x

xOrder of coloring x xwarping and wefting 6:6 x x

xx

x xx xx

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7All over effect

Repeat or weave 4/4 zx

Order of coloring x xwarping and wefting 6:6 x x x

x x xRepeat size 24 x 24 x x x

x x xx xx

xx x

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8 x xBird's eye effect : spot design x

xOrder of coloring x x xwarping and wefting 2:2

x xExample repeat size 8x8 x x

x#

9Stepped twill A

A

Repeat or weave 2/2 z

Order of coloringwarping and wefting 1:1

B xx x

Repeat or weave 3/3 z x xx

Order of coloring #warping and wefting 2:1

B

xx x

x x xx xx

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Simple Colour and weave effect

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Compound Color And Weave Effect

1Simple weave and compound order of Color based design example

xRepeat or weave 3/3 z x

xOrder of coloring -Compound warping 2:2 , 4:2 Simple wefting 2:2

xRepeat size 24 X 12 x

x#

Compound Color And Weave Effect

x x x x x x x x x xx x x x x x x x x x x

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x x x x x x x x x x x

1 Hucka Back

x xx x x

x x Divided Draftx x x

x x x x xx x x x x x x

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x x x x x x xx x x x x

x x x x x x xx x x x x

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Repeat Size 10 X 10

2 Devon Hucka Backx x x x x

x x x x x x xx x x x x

x x x x xx x x x x x x

x x x x x#

Repeat Size 10 X 6

3 Mock Lenox x x x

x x x xx x x x

x x x xx x x x

x x x xx x x x

x x x x

#Repeat Size 8 X 8

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#Repeat Size 14 X 14

Mock leno doesn't accept diamond design

4 Ordinary Honey Comb

#Repeat Size 8 X 8Horizontal BindingSingle BindingUnequal Floating Size

#Repeat Size 8 X 8Vertical BindingSingle BindingUnequal Floating Size

#Repeat Size 10 X 10Uneqiual Floating Size

Single Binding

#Repeat Size 10 X 8Equal size floating

# Unequal Floating Size is appeared due to balance Repeat Size# Equal Floating Size is appeared due to unbalance Repeat Size

Only plain weave portion is sunkenarea

#

Repeat Size 12 X 12Double BindingOrdinary Honey Comb

An Ordinary honey comb design contains 2 warp diamonds and 2 weft diamonds .

5 Brighton Honey Comb

#Repeat Size 16 X 16Single Binding , Double Binding

A brighton honey comb design contains 4 warp diamonds and 4 weft diamonds .

Drafting system : Straight Draft

6 Distorted thread effect

x x x xx x x x x x x x

x x x xD

x x x x x x x x Warp upx x x x

x x x x x x x xx x x x

x x x x x x x xx x x x

Dx x x x x x x x

x x x xx ` x x ` x x ` x x ` x

D D

Repeat Size 14 X 14Warp distorted thread effect

In a repeat , 2 warp thread and 2 weft thread will be distorted .

7 Plain face bed ford cord

x x x xx x x x Warp up

x x x xx x x x

#C C C C

Repeat Size 12 X 4Plain face bed ford cord effect

`

C Cutting Thread

Plain face bed ford cord fabric requires6 heald frame

No. of weft yarn always 4 in a repeat .

8 Wadded bed ford cord

x x x x xx x x x x

x x x x xx x x x x

#

C W C C W C

Repeat Size 18 X 4Wadded bed ford cord

C Cutting threadW Wadding thread

Wadded bed ford cord requires 8 heald frames .No. of weft yarn in a repeat is always 4 .

Cross-sectional view of wadded bed ford cord

9 Ordinary pique or welt structure / Loose back without wadding picks

3 x x2 x x skipped draft 1 x x

#G S G G S G

Repeat Size 6 X 8Ordinary pique or welt structure

G Ground threadS Stitching thread

10 Fast back welt or pique structure

G Ground threadS Stitching thread

#G S G G S G

Repeat Size 6 X 12Fast back welt or pique structure

11 Weft wadded welts /loose back wadded welt structure

W W Wadded threadW

#G S G G S G

Repeat Size 6 X 12Weft wadded welts

In case of of loose back wadded welt , stitching thread will leave interlacement at the wadded thread

# Difference between bed ford cord design and pique design :

Bed ford cord shows cord effect vertically . It's sunken line also being shown vertically .

On the other hand , pique shows cord effect horizontally and also sunken line horizontally .

Question :

1 Draw the cross sectional view of a bed ford cord design .100 % Common . So, practice it and be carefull

2 Draw a longitudinal view of pique design .

Divided Draft

xxx

xx

xx

x x x xx x x x x x x x

x x x xD Warp up

x x x x x x x xx x x x Weft up

x x x x x x x xx x x x

x x x x x x x xx x x x

Dx x x x x x x x

x x x xx ` x x ` x x ` x x ` x

D DRepeat Size 14 X 14Weft distorted thread effect

109 x8 x x x7 x x x6 x5 X4 X3 X X2 X X X1 X

x x x x xx x x x x

x x x x xx x x x x

#C C C C

Repeat Size 16 X 4Plain face bed ford cord effect

No. of warp yarn in a repeat size for plain face bed ford cord will even due to complete the design correctly .

x x x xWarp up x x x x xWarp up ( Wadding thread ) x x x

x x x#

C W W C C W

Repeat Size 20 X 4Wadded bed ford cord

Warp upwarp up ( Wadding thread )

Wadded bed ford cord requires 8 heald frames .No. of weft yarn in a repeat is always 4 .

W W Wadded threadW

#G S G G S G

Repeat Size 6 X 12Loose back weft wadded pique

In case of of loose back wadded welt , stitching thread will leave interlacement at the wadded thread

Bed ford cord shows cord effect vertically . It's sunken line also being shown vertically . No . Of weft is fixed that is 4 .

On the other hand , pique shows cord effect horizontally and also sunken line horizontally . No. of warp is fixed that is 6 .

100 % Common . So, practice it and be carefull

x x x x x x x xx x x x x x x x

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x x x x x x x xNo. of warp yarn in a repeat size for plain face bed ford cord will even due to complete the design correctly . x x x x x x x x

x x x x xx x x x x x

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x

x xx x

W C

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1 Multiply fabric

Definition: A febric which consists of three or more layer of woven fabric which are stitched together by using self-thread or extra thread .

Contruction principle of mutiply fabric :The multiply fabric can be constructed either longitudinally or cross sectionally . Warp repeat of this weave is 6 and weft repeat is 12 . Ends are passed through the reed according to the corresponding diagram and picks are also inserted according to the corresponding diagram. Thus , multiply fabric consist of three fabric such as face , center and back cloth.

121110987654321# 1 2 3 4 5 6

Multiply fabric Layer view

Types of Stitch :

1 . Self stitch . There are 4 types self stitch -such as : 1 From face to center and center to back 2 From face to center and back to center 3 From center to face and center to back4 From center to face and back to center5 Combination

2 . Stitching with extra thread.

2 Self stitch double cloth by back to face stitching system

BFBF

# BFace cloth F xFormula No. 4/4 z Twill BRepeat size 8 X 8 F x

BF xBFBFBF

## F B F B F B

Back clothFormula No. 5/3 z twillRepeat size 8 X 8

3 Self stitched double cloth by face to back stitching system

B xFB xF

# B xFace cloth FFormula No. 4/4 z Twill BRepeat size 8 X 8 F

BF

BFBFBF

## F B F B F B

Back clothFormula No. 5/3 z twillRepeat size 8 X 8

4 Double cloth produce by combined stitching system

B xFB xF

# B xFace cloth F xFormula No. 4/4 z Twill BRepeat size 8 X 8 F x

BF xBFBFBF

## F B F B F B

Back clothFormula No. 5/3 z twillRepeat size 8 X 8

4 Warp wadded double cloth

BF

# BFace cloth FFormula No. 4/4 z Twill BRepeat size 8 X 8 F

BF xBF xBF xBFB

# FBack cloth # F B W F B W F B WFormula No. 5/3 z twillRepeat size 8 X 8

5 Weft wadded double cloth

WBF xWBF xWB

# F xFace cloth WFormula No. 4/4 z Twill BRepeat size 8 X 8 F x

WBFWBFWBF

# WBack cloth BFormula No. 5/3 z twill F xRepeat size 8 X 8 # F B F B F B F B F

6 Center warp stitch double cloth

BFBF X

# BFace cloth FFormula No. 3/2 z twill B 0Repeat size 5X5 F

BF# F B F B F S B F

#Back clothFormula No. 2/3 z twillRepeat size 5X5

7 Center weft stitch double cloth

BS xFB

# F

Face cloth BFormula No. 3/2 z twill S 0Repeat size 5X5 F

BFBF# F B F B F B

#Back clothFormula No. 2/3 z twillRepeat size 5X5

A febric which consists of three or more layer of woven fabric which are stitched together by using self-thread or extra thread .

The longitudinal section of a three ply weave are shown in following figure.Ends are passed through the reed according to the corresponding diagram and picks are also inserted according

Thus , multiply fabric consist of three fabric such as face , center and back cloth.

From face to center and center to back From face to center and back to center From center to face and center to backFrom center to face and back to centerCombination

Face warp up over face weft x

Back warp up over back weftx

Mutual point between facewarp and back weft

x Stitching point from back to face

Weft over warp

x

x

x

F B F B F B F B F B

Face warp up over face weft

Back warp up over back weft

Mutual point between facewarp and back weft

x x Stitching point from back to face

x Weft over warp

x

x

x

F B F B F B F B F B

Face warp up over face weft x

Back warp up over back weftx

Mutual point between facewarp and back weft

x x Stitching point

x Weft over warp

x

xx

xx

F B F B F B F B F B

x

x Face warp up over face weft

x Back warp up over back weft

Mutual point between facewarp and back weftWadded warp over back weft

x Stitching point back to face

x weft up over warp

xF B W F B W F B W F B W F B W

Face warp up over face weft

Back warp up over back weft

Mutual point between face

warp and back weftFace warp over wadded weft

xx Stitching point back to face

x weft up over warp

x

B F B F B F B

Face warp over fae weft

Mutual point between face warpand back weft

x Center stitch with face cloth

0 Center stitch with back cloth

B F B

0

Back warp over back weft

x

F B F B

Woven Pile Fabric

Definition :

Pile fabric can be produced by weaving with some special constructional technique .

Types of woven pile fabric : 1 Weft pile fabric

2 Warp pile fabric

Specification of pile fabric -Pile density ( No. of pile in per square unit area )Pile height ( Height of a pile)

Discription of weft pile fabric :

Weft pile fabric : Weft pile fabric is produced by weft pile method. In this method , 2 sets of weft yarn and 1 set of warp yarn is needed. Ground weavecan be either twill or plain ,but twill weave is more preferable than plain weave due to it's durability.

The extra set of weft yarns float over three or more warp yarn . After weaving is completed , the floating yarns are cut at the center of the float. Then, fabric surface is brushed and it forms pile suface.

Some well known weft pile fabrics are-

1 . Corduroy Ex. Women's wear2 . Baby roy Ex. Women's blouses3 . Velveteen Ex. Trousers4 . Manchester Ex. Work trousers5 . Stretch cord

Corduroy fabric :

Corduroy fabric is characterized by pile stripe or wale alternating with plain wale(no pile) repeatedly . A separate cutting knife is necessary for cutting the floatsof each wales . After cutting fabric is produced lengthwise columns of pile surface and non-pile surface. formed. Hence, it will give us cord like effect .

Fabric which contains densely cut and uncut loop on the surface of it ,is called pile fabric .

Corduroy fabric are given names according to the number of wales. Feather wale or cord corduroy has about 20 to 25 length wise wales per inch and weight

Velveteen fabric :

Velveteen and weft plush are produced with floats of such a length and closeness that when it is cut and brushed they produce all-over effect , rather than rib effect . They are characterized by a uniform and overall pile.(The pile is not higher than 1/8 inch ) .

Durability of velveteen depends on-

1 . A twill back velveteen is more durable than plain back velveteen.

2 . If a pile loop is pulled out from the fabric , it's shape will be "V" or "W" .

V- Reveals that pile weft has interlaced with only one warp yarn .W- Reveals that pile weft has interlaced with three warp yarns .So, "W" is more durable beacause it is held with three ground warp.

Structurally the velveteens are classified as follows- 1 . All over /plain velveteen.2 . Weft plushes.3 . Corded velveteens.4 . Figured velveteens.

5± ounces per yd square .

Float cutting principle :

ln one process, thin ,flexible metal bands are inserted between the floats and the base fabric and then circular metal knives cut down the centers of thefloats over the metal band .The blades cut the floats without damage to the base fabric.

The machine used here is equipped with a great number of needles with knives.For every rib to be cut , a separate needle with knife is used .are pushed as it were into the tunnels under the pile weft .The needles are split after the needle point . The circular knife turns in this groove thus cutting the pile weft yarns .After the pile yarns have been cut ,the fabrics brushed to bring the cut ends of the pile yarns into a position perpendicular to the fabric .

Discription of warp pile fabric :

Warp pile fabric :In this fabric , one set of the warp yarns interlaces with one set of weft yarns to form the base or ground fabric , and the extra set of warp yarnsis used to create the pile that can be cut or uncut.

Three general methods are used to make warp pile fabrics:

1. The Wire method2. Face-to-Face method 3. The slack tension pile or Terry weave method

Wire method :

Wire method is used to produce carpets with loop pile , cut pile or a combination of both by wire loom .Such as-

1 . Looping wire2 . Cutting wire

Figure : Cutting and looping wire

Cutting wire : Cutting wire has a knife at the top of it . When the wire is withdrwan , the loop is cut and resulting in a cut-pile. Looping wire : Loop wire has no cutting edge at the top of it . When the wire is withdrwan , the loop remains uncut .

In this method , ground weft is passed through shade by the aid of shuttle and more than that a special mechanical arrangement is used to introduce wire intothe shade of ground warp and pile warp .

When the reed beat up , following wire is inserted and a loop is formed over the wire . Wire stays in the carpet over some cycle at the cloth fell . Wire is removed from the fabric after three beat up is done for three pick carpet . It is necessary that the wires remain in the carpet during a number of insertions in order to obtain a strong binding of the cut pile in the ground fabric.

Advantages of the wire weaving technique are that:1. Both cut and loop pile weaving is possible.2. There are no problems to weave logos ; there is no mirror image effect as on face-to-face weaving machines .3. The pile height is easily adjustable by changing the wire dimensions.

Disadvantages :1. Low production speed,2. Over-heating of the wires when they are withdrawn.This may cause problems when weaving synthetic yarns .

Face to face method :

In this method , a fabric is produced over another fabric during weaving . Only cut pile fabric can be produced by this method . of warp yarns ( 1 set as face warp , 1 set as back warp and 1 set as pile warp ) and two sets of weft yarns ( 1 set as face weft and 1 set as back weft )

During weaving pile warp is used to bind or stitch face and back fabric. Pile warp is delivered from creel or a different beam. Weft yarns are inserted into face andback fabric respectively by the aid of shuttles . So, there are two shuttles , one for face fabric and another for back fabric. See the figure below -

Face fabric

Back fabric

Pile height depends on the relative distance between face and back fabric . It is controlled by distance plate. In this method , loom contains a cutting mechanism .The main part of cutting mechanism is a blade , which cut the fabric along it's full width and it can move very fastly from one side to another side of fabric .

The blade cut pile warps at a predetemined distance ( about 10 cm ) from fell of cloth. By this process two velvet fabric is produced and then velvets are wound byroller.

Advantages : 1. No supplementary treatment is needed to remove the floating pile .2. Top and bottom carpets are equal in weight.3. The carpet is thicker (more comfort).4. Greater dimensional stability .

Disadvantages :1. More complex and hence more expensivej acquard machines are needed .2. The jacquard machines are under heavier stress .3. The backing aspect is less nice than with floaters .

Terry weave method or slack tension pile method :Terry fabric has loops at least one side and usually one both side . In case of terry fabric , loop height is determined by the let of motion of the warp beam.The production of terry fabric is complex process and is only possible on specially equipped weaving machines. Today , terry fabric with exclusive patternscan be produced on high speed weaving machines.

Characteristics of terry weave :1. Two sets of warp and one set of weft is used. 2. Pile warp must be low count and soft twisted yarn .3. Pile warp are supplied from beam to weaving with low tension .4. Generally cotton is used as pile yarn .

Most important requirements for terry weave are-1 . Low capital investment but high productivity .2 . Impeccable fabric quality. 3 . Easy operation with few mechanical settings.4 . Short style changing time.

Types of terry fabric -1 . Fashion terry . ( It contains spiral loops . )2 . Classic terry . ( It contains upright loops . Pile warp is made of twisted yarn and also dyed. )

According to the terry aspect , three types of terry ccan be distinguished :

1 . Terry with irregular loop piles.2 . Terry with cut piles.3 . Terry with ordered standing loop piles.

Terry weave mechanism :

Generally , two types terry weave can be found- 1 . Three pick terry 2 . Four pick terry

And also can be found 5 or 6 pick terry .

The mechanism discription is based on three pick terry -

In this weave / method , a special type of reed motion is used . For this motion , first two picks don't add with the fell of cloth that means short or loose beat up . As a result a particular distance is formed in between fell of cloth and two picks , latterly which helps to produce loops or piles. After then , a full beat up is applied on third pick and loop is formed . Fabric weave can be 1/2 rib or twill to give maximum result .

In this case , pile height depends on --

1 . Distance between the length of short beat up and full beat up . 2 . Warp pile tension .

Woven Pile Fabric

Pile fabric can be produced by weaving with some special constructional technique .

Weft pile fabric is produced by weft pile method. In this method , 2 sets of weft yarn and 1 set of warp yarn is needed. Ground weavecan be either twill or plain ,but twill weave is more preferable than plain weave due to it's durability.

The extra set of weft yarns float over three or more warp yarn . After weaving is completed , the floating yarns are cut at the center of the float.

Corduroy fabric is characterized by pile stripe or wale alternating with plain wale(no pile) repeatedly . A separate cutting knife is necessary for cutting the floatsof each wales . After cutting fabric is produced lengthwise columns of pile surface and non-pile surface. Then , surface of the fabric is brushed and pile suface is

Fabric which contains densely cut and uncut loop on the surface of it ,is called pile fabric .

Corduroy fabric are given names according to the number of wales. Feather wale or cord corduroy has about 20 to 25 length wise wales per inch and weight

Velveteen and weft plush are produced with floats of such a length and closeness that when it is cut and brushed they produce all-over effect , rather than rib effect . They are characterized by a uniform and overall pile.(The pile is not higher than 1/8 inch ) .

If a pile loop is pulled out from the fabric , it's shape will be "V" or "W" .

So, "W" is more durable beacause it is held with three ground warp.

ln one process, thin ,flexible metal bands are inserted between the floats and the base fabric and then circular metal knives cut down the centers of thefloats over the metal band .The blades cut the floats without damage to the base fabric.

The machine used here is equipped with a great number of needles with knives.For every rib to be cut , a separate needle with knife is used . The needles are pushed as it were into the tunnels under the pile weft .The needles are split after the needle point . The circular knife turns in this groove thus cutting the pile weft yarns .After the pile yarns have been cut ,the fabrics brushed to bring the cut ends of the pile yarns into a position perpendicular to the fabric .

In this fabric , one set of the warp yarns interlaces with one set of weft yarns to form the base or ground fabric , and the extra set of warp yarns

Wire method is used to produce carpets with loop pile , cut pile or a combination of both by wire loom . In this method , two types of wire are used .

Cutting wire has a knife at the top of it . When the wire is withdrwan , the loop is cut and resulting in a cut-pile. Loop wire has no cutting edge at the top of it . When the wire is withdrwan , the loop remains uncut .

In this method , ground weft is passed through shade by the aid of shuttle and more than that a special mechanical arrangement is used to introduce wire into

When the reed beat up , following wire is inserted and a loop is formed over the wire . Wire stays in the carpet over some cycle at the cloth fell . Wire is removed from the fabric after three beat up is done for three pick carpet . It is necessary that the wires remain in the carpet during a number of insertions in order to obtain

2. There are no problems to weave logos ; there is no mirror image effect as on

3. The pile height is easily adjustable by changing the wire dimensions.

2. Over-heating of the wires when they are withdrawn.This may cause problems when weaving synthetic yarns .

In this method , a fabric is produced over another fabric during weaving . Only cut pile fabric can be produced by this method . This method requires three setsof warp yarns ( 1 set as face warp , 1 set as back warp and 1 set as pile warp ) and two sets of weft yarns ( 1 set as face weft and 1 set as back weft ) .

During weaving pile warp is used to bind or stitch face and back fabric. Pile warp is delivered from creel or a different beam. Weft yarns are inserted into face andback fabric respectively by the aid of shuttles . So, there are two shuttles , one for face fabric and another for back fabric. See the figure below -

Shuttle for face fabric

Shuttle for back fabric

Pile height depends on the relative distance between face and back fabric . It is controlled by distance plate. In this method , loom contains a cutting mechanism .The main part of cutting mechanism is a blade , which cut the fabric along it's full width and it can move very fastly from one side to another side of fabric .

The blade cut pile warps at a predetemined distance ( about 10 cm ) from fell of cloth. By this process two velvet fabric is produced and then velvets are wound by

1. No supplementary treatment is needed to remove the floating pile .

1. More complex and hence more expensivej acquard machines are needed .

Terry fabric has loops at least one side and usually one both side . In case of terry fabric , loop height is determined by the let of motion of the warp beam.The production of terry fabric is complex process and is only possible on specially equipped weaving machines. Today , terry fabric with exclusive patterns

Classic terry . ( It contains upright loops . Pile warp is made of twisted yarn and also dyed. )

And also can be found 5 or 6 pick terry .

In this weave / method , a special type of reed motion is used . For this motion , first two picks don't add with the fell of cloth that means short or loose beat up . As a result a particular distance is formed in between fell of cloth and two picks , latterly which helps to produce loops or piles. After then , a full beat up is

Fabric weave can be 1/2 rib or twill to give maximum result .

Distance between the length of short beat up and full beat up .