discover trinidad & tobago travel guide 2014

1www.discovertnt.com

Editor: Anu LakhanConsulting Editor: Jeremy TaylorOnline Editor: Caroline TaylorEditorial & Design Assistant: Marissa RodriguezResearch Assistant: Shivanee RamlochanDesign & Layout: Bridget van Dongen, Kevon WebsterSales: Denise ChinProduction: Jacqueline SmithGeneral Manager: Halcyon SalazarOn the cover: (Top) Port of Spain Waterfront by Chris An-derson L to R: Hyatt Regency Trinidad, Port of Spain Inter-national Waterfront Centre, Government Campus Plaza(Below) 2013 Soca Monarch, Super Blue (Austin Lyons) in concert by Aaron RichardsPrinters: Caribbean Print Technologies

A publication of Media & Editorial Projects Ltd. (MEP)6 Prospect Avenue, Maraval, Port of Spain, Trinidad & TobagoT: (868) 622-3821 / 5813 / 6138 F: (868) 628-0639 E: [email protected] W: www.discovertnt.com

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ContentsWe are Trinidad & Tobago – Welcome 3

What you need to know about T&T 5

Calendar of events 12

We are limers 26

Top 10 things to do for free 28

We are Carnival 31

We celebrate 39

We’d like to show you … 45

We are hikers 53

We’re at the beach 55

We are contenders 58

We are artists of all kinds 66

We are shoppers 70

We are food lovers 76

We have just the place for you 82

Welcome to Tobago 95

We are saving the turtles 97

We’re sunning, surfing, swimming … 99

We are more than just beaches 105

We are divers 108

Things to find out about 112

Moving to Tobago 114

Where to stay 115

Getting married? 119

Maps 122

Index 132

2 Trinidad

Canada: [email protected] • Germany: [email protected] • India: [email protected]: [email protected] • United Kingdom: [email protected] • United States : [email protected]


Welcome to Trinidad and Tobago, two wonderful islands where contrast and contradiction is the

norm rather than the exception – and for the most part, that works for us.

Trinidad is nothing like what you think of when you imagine a tropical paradise, but Tobago might

deliver on that front. Tobago is nothing like the frenzied party island you imagine when you think of our

Carnival; that is what Trinidad is for.

We are naturally friendly and easy-going and quick to laugh (at ourselves, the world, the person

standing next to us). We’re not turning on the tourist charm, it’s the national personality. Some might think

us frivolous: we just think we have a lively sense of humour.

As light-hearted as we can be, we can be equally serious. Cricket, football and steelbands are some

of the things we can be surprisingly solemn about.

We were once Indian, African, Chinese, Syran, French, Spanish,

English, Portuguese, Amerindian. It used to be a commonplace to refer

to us as a melting pot, but that is a bit of a disservice to the real triumph

of our all living together. While some things blend and fuse, there are

festivals, foods and all manner of artistic expressions that show real

influence from these old ancestors. And therein lies the magic. We share.

We are individuals and we are a people. And in this country that means

everything.

Anu

Lakh

an

We are Trinidad and Tobago

Ayan

na Y

oung


What you need to know about T&T

Getting hereArriving by sea (yachts & sailing boats)

• Arriving yachts should have a

clearance certificate from the last

port of call, and the vessel’s regis-

tration certificate (or authorisation

for use)

• In Trinidad, check in with Cus-

toms & Immigration at CrewsInn

in Chaguaramas; in Tobago, check

in with Customs & Immigration in

Scarborough or Charlotteville

• Chaguaramas in Trinidad is the hub

of yachting activity, with sheltered

anchorage maintained by the

Yachting Association and strings

of maintenance and repair yards,

marinas and essential services

• There are no official anchorage

sites in Tobago, but Mt Irvine Bay,

Grafton Beach, Store Bay and Eng-

lishman’s Bay are popular. On the

southeast coast, Anse Bateau is a

good anchorage and fuelling point

Major international gateways Miami, Fort Lauderdale, New York, Toronto, London

You will need:• A passport valid for three months beyond your intend-

ed stay

• Documentation for return or onward travel and a local

address (non-residents)

• To double-check visa requirements with your airline

or travel agent (for many nationalities, visas are gener-

ally not required for visits up to 30 days)

Airports Trinidad: Piarco International Airport (27km/17 miles

from Port of Spain)

Tobago: ANR Robinson International Airport (10km/7

miles from Scarborough)

Transport from the airport Authorised private taxis are available at the airport: con-

firm the fare in advance (a list of fares is displayed in

the arrivals area). If in doubt, check the taxi dispatcher.

Authorised private taxis have licence plates beginning

with “H” (for “Hire”), and are not metered.

6

While you are hereMoney mattersMoney: ABMs (ATMs) and credit/debit cards are routinely used

Currency: Trinidad & Tobago dollar (TT$); US$1= approximately TT$6.4 (floating exchange rate)

Taxes: 10% room tax + 10% service at hotels; 15% VAT (value added tax) on most goods and services

DrivingWhich side? We drive on the left. Seatbelts are required by law

Speed limits (private cars): Trinidad, 50kph (30mph) in built-up areas, otherwise 80kph

(50mph); Tobago 50kph (30mph)

Driving permits: Visitors can drive for up to 90 days on a valid foreign or international licence

UtilitiesElectricity: 115v/230v, 60Hz

Water: Tap water is safe to drink (boil it if you want to be doubly sure); bottled water is widely available

Mail: TTPost operates the national mail service; FedEx, DHL, UPS and others provide courier service

Telecommunications Country phone code: 868 (regional code: 1)

Landline telephones: Provided by Telecommunications Services of Trinidad & Tobago (TSTT)

and FLOW. Prepaid international phone cards are available

Mobile telephones: Bmobile (TSTT) and Digicel operate on GSM networks and have intro-

duced 4G broadband mobile service; prepaid SIM cards are available for unlocked phones

Public wi-fi• FLOW’s FSpots are available free at Rituals, Pizza Boys, Church’s Chicken, Mario’s and Boom-

er’s restaurants. Bmobile and blink broadband customers can register for free wi-fi at over

50 locations nationwide, including Piarco International Airport, Chaguaramas Boardwalk,

Maracas Bay, the Trinidad Ferry Terminal, Ariapita Avenue, the Cruise Ship Complex, West Mall,

Grand Bazaar, Long Circular Mall, Trincity Mall and Gulf City Mall

• In Tobago, bzone offers wi-fi at the Ferry Terminal, Store Bay, Pigeon Point and Gulf City Mall

(Lowlands)


Getting around

There are basically five ways of getting around in Trini-

dad & Tobago: private taxis; public taxis and maxi-taxis

(plying specific routes); buses; a rented car; or with a

tour operator.

Bicycles are hardly ever used except for sports: roads are

generally unsafe for cyclists

Private taxisAvailable at the airports and the larger hotels; otherwise

summoned by phone

Public taxisRoute taxis are cars registered as taxis, bearing “H” plates.

They work specific routes, picking up and dropping off

passengers anywhere along the way

Maxi-taxis (12- to 25-seat mini-buses) operate in the

same way, mostly connecting urban centres (e.g. Port

of Spain to San Fernando) or servicing suburbs (e.g.

Port of Spain to Chaguaramas,

Diego Martin, Petit Valley, Maraval,

St Ann’s, Cascade). These “maxis”

carry brightly-coloured bands ac-

cording to their area:

Black: San Fernando-Princes Town,

connecting to Mayaro

Blue: Tobago

Brown: San Fernando-La Romaine-

Siparia-Point Fortin

Green: Port of Spain (City Gate)-

Curepe-Chaguanas-San Fernando

(King’s Wharf)

Red: Port of Spain-Arima, connect-

ing to Blanchisseuse, and to Matelot

via Sangre Grande

Yellow: Port of Spain-Diego Martin-

Petit Valley-Chaguaramas

Step

hen

Jay

Phot

ogra

phy

8

Getting aroundBusesBuses operate from Port of Spain (City Gate) to most towns, sometimes on an “express” basis,

and from hubs in Chaguanas, San Fernando (King’s Wharf) and Scarborough (Sangster’s Hill).

Check the Public Transport Service Corporation (PTSC) at www.ptsc.co.tt for current sched-

ules and fares. Tickets must be purchased from the hub before boarding

Car rentals & tour operatorsLocal and international rental companies operate in both islands and at both airports. Check the

Yellow Pages

FerriesTrinidad-Tobago

Daily inter-island car and passenger ferry ser-

vice between Port of Spain and Scarborough

is operated by the Port Authority of Trinidad

& Tobago (www.patnt.com). All passengers

must provid ID.

• The T&T Express and T&T Spirit do the

trip in about two and a half hours each way

• Fares: TT$100 return; children 3-11 years

half price; children under three and senior

citizens (65 and over) travel free; passenger

vehicle charge: TT$150; tickets available

from the ferry terminals, and from some

post offices and travel agencies

• You can find the ferry schedule at

www.ttitferry.com

POS-Chaguaramas

• The POS-Chaguaramas ferry was intro-

duced in 2013. It takes about 30 minutes

and costs TT$20

Port of Spain-San Fernando

The water taxi service between Trinidad’s two

cities is operated by the National Infrastructure

Development Company (www.nidco.co.tt).

• The trip takes about 45 minutes each way

• Fares: TT$15 one way. Infants under the

age of one travel free; senior citizens (65

and over) travel free on off-peak sailings

Trinidad-Venezuela

Pier 1 in Chaguaramas operates a weekly ferry

on Wednesdays to Venezuela for TT$1,380

round-trip plus departure tax. Call 634-4426

for information

AirbridgeCaribbean Airlines operates several flights a

day between Trinidad & Tobago (625-7200,

www.caribbean-airlines.com). Both airports

have separate departure and arrival areas for air-

bridge passengers. Flight time is about 20 minutes.


ContactsEmergencies Ambulance (public hospitals) 811

EMS (emergency medical services) 624-4343 (north Trinidad)

653-4343 (south/central Trinidad)

639-4444 (Tobago)

Hyperbaric medical facility

(decompression chamber, Roxborough, Tobago) 660-4369

Fire 990

Office of Disaster Preparedness 640-1285 (Trinidad)

660-7489 (Tobago)

511 in emergencies

Police: in Trinidad 999 or 555

in Tobago 639-2520 or 639-5590

Visitor informationDivision of Tourism, Tobago 639-2125, www.visittobago.gov.tt

Immigration Division 625-3571/2 (Trinidad), 639-2681 (Tobago)

www.immigration.gov.tt

Tobago House of Assembly 639-3421, www.tha.gov.tt

Tourism Development Company 675-7034, www.tdc.co.tt,

www.gotrinidadandtobago.com

Tourist information offices 639-0509 (ANR Robinson Airport, Tobago)

635-0934 (Cruise Ship Complex, Tobago)

669-5196 (Piarco Airport, Trinidad)

Trinidad & Tobago government online www.ttconnect.gov.tt

10

Our country Capital National capital: Port of Spain

Tobago capital: Scarborough

Climate Tropical, with a dry(ish) season from Janu-

ary to May and a wetter season from June to

December. The islands are just south of the

main hurricane belt, though they have been

hit by hurricanes in the past (most recently by

Flora in 1963, which passed over Tobago). The

daily temperature range is 72-95°F (22-35°C),

with an average of 83°F (29°C)

Location & coordinates 11°N, 61°W. Tobago and Trinidad are 33km (21

miles) apart; Trinidad is 10km (7 miles) from

Venezuela at the nearest point

SizeTrinidad: 4,828km2 (1,864 sq miles); 105 x

80km (65 x 50 miles)

Tobago: 300km2 (116 sq miles); 48 x 16km

(30 x 10 miles)

Time zoneAtlantic Standard Time year-round (GMT/UTC

-4, EST +1)

Official language English

Population1.3 million, descended from Africa, India, Europe,

China, the Mediterranean and the Middle East

HistoryPre-Columbian: the islands have been settled

since around 5,000 BC, originally by Amer-

indians travelling up the island chain from

South America

Colonial: Columbus claimed Trinidad for

Spain in 1498, but it remained a neglected

backwater until the late 18th century, the ar-

rival of French Catholic settlers, and seizure by

the British in 1797. Tobago was fought over by

several European powers before becoming a

British colony. It joined Trinidad at the end of

the 19th century

Modern: Trinidad & Tobago became inde-

pendent in 1962, and a republic within the

Commonwealth in 1976. It is a parliamentary

democracy holding regular free elections. To-

bago has a separate House of Assembly

EconomyMajor resources: oil and natural gas

Major industries: LNG, steel, methanol, am-

monia, urea, light manufacturing and assembly

Major services: tourism, conference and con-

vention facilities, financial services, construction

Indicators: GDP per capita US$20,400 (2012),

unemployment 5.3% (2012), est. GDP growth

in 2014: 2.5% (IMF)

12

Mo

nd

ayT

ues

day

Wed

nes

day

Th

urs

day

Frid

aySa

turd

aySu

nd

ay

* Public HolidayCalendar

1New Year’s

Day *

6

8

13

15

20

22

2

7

9

14

16

21

23

27

29

31Chinese

New Year

Sailing

season

begins

28

30

January

Carnival

season

begins

Chinese New Year

It’s the Year of the Horse.

Celebrations last 15 days

and culminate in the

Lantern Festival.

New Year’s Day

Friends old and new; par-

ties great and small. The

good-luck dish for bringing

in the new year is our pelau

with black-eyed peas.

Dam

ien

Luk

Pat

13discovertnt.com* Public Holiday

Tobago

Carnival

Caravan

2

3

5

10

12

17

19

1

4 11 18

24

26

28

25

27

February

Mo

nd

ayT

ues

day

Wed

nes

day

Th

urs

day

Frid

aySa

turd

aySu

nd

ay

Tobago Carnival

Regatta

Held at Pigeon Point,

it’s also known as the

“festival of wind”. It is

a combination of four

sailing categories: Opti-

mists and Bum Boat sail-

ing, as well as the more

dynamic windsurf and

kite surfing classes.

Radi

cal S

ports

Tob

ago

Carnival

season

continues

Soca

Monarch

Finals

14* Public Holiday

Calendar

31

Tobago

Inter-

national

Game

Fishing

Tourna-

ment

Turtle nest-

ing season

begins

2Dimanche

Gras

3Carnival

Monday

5

9

10

12

16

17Phagwa

19

23

Trinidad

& Tobago

Golf Open

1Panorama

Finals

4Carnival

Tuesday

11 18

24

26

30 Spiritual

Shouter Baptist

Liberation Day *

25

March

Mo

nd

ayT

ues

day

Wed

nes

day

Th

urs

day

Frid

aySa

turd

aySu

nd

ay

Carnival Monday and

Tuesday

From J’ouvert morning to Las

Lap and all the music and mas

in between, the biggest party of

the year is on.

Chr

is A

nder

son


4

6

11

13

18 Good

Friday *

20Easter

Sunday

21 Easter

Monday *

23

25

27

5 Jazz

Artists on

the Green

12 19

22

24

26

28

30

Jazz on

the Beach

29

Tobago Jazz

Experience

Point Fortin

Borough Day

April

Mo

nd

ayT

ues

day

Wed

nes

day

Th

urs

day

Frid

aySa

turd

aySu

nd

ay

Easter Weekend

The long Easter weekend

brings horse racing at the Santa

Rosa track in Arima in Trinidad,

and goat and crab races in Mt

Pleasant in Tobago, on Monday

and Buccoo on Tuesday.

Ediso

n Bo

odoo

singh

16* Public Holiday

Calendar

Maypole

Festival

Rainbow

Cup Inter-

national

Triathlon

2

4

9

11

16

18

23

25

1

3

8 La Divina

Pastora

10

15

17

22

24

30

29

31 Indian

Arrival

Day *

May

Mo

nd

ayT

ues

day

Wed

nes

day

Th

urs

day

Frid

aySa

turd

aySu

nd

ay

La Divina Pastora

Pilgrims from all over the country wor-

ship La Divina Pastora in Siparia with

prayers, gifts, and a street procession.

Catholics recognise her as the Divine

Shepherdess, Hindus as Soparee Mai.

We pride ourselves on how well differ-

ent cultures co-exist, and here it shows

in a simple, moving ritual.

5

6

7

Aria

nn T

hom

pson


30

We Beat

Festival

(St James)

5 12

27

29 St Peter’s

Day

26

28

June

Mo

nd

ayT

ues

day

Wed

nes

day

Th

urs

day

Frid

aySa

turd

aySu

nd

ay

Ediso

n Bo

odoo

singh

4 11 2518

3 10 2417

2 9 2316Labour Day

June 19, 1937 was a landmark day for the trade union movement,

when police tried to arrest the firebrand labour leader Uriah “Buzz”

Butler in Fyzabad in the face of huge grassroots defiance. That’s

why Labour Day in Trinidad & Tobago is on June 19 rather than

the conventional May 1.

19 Labour

Day &

Corpus

Christi *

St Peter’s Day

The sainted fisherman is celebrat-

ed in fishing villages across the

country with church services and

festivals. One of the biggest ones

is held in Carenage where there’s

a full day of festivities, some

more secular than religious.

18* Public Holiday

Calendar

Tobago Heri-

tage Festival

(date TBA)

6

7

13

14

20

21

27

1

5

8

12

15

19

22

26

28

30

Mango

Festival

Tobago

Great Fete

Weekend

Eid-ul-

Fitr *

(date TBA)

29

31

July

Mo

nd

ayT

ues

day

Wed

nes

day

Th

urs

day

Frid

aySa

turd

aySu

nd

ay

Tobago Heritage

Festival

Tobago’s premier festival

celebrates island folk

traditions in different

villages, especially in food,

folklore, song, dance,

craft and storytelling.

Caf

é M

oka


14 21 28

1 Emancipation

Day *

3

8

10

15

17

22

24

Arima

Borough

Day

Castara

Fisher-

man’s Fete

2

7

9 16 23

29

31Independence

Day *

30

August

Mo

nd

ayT

ues

day

Wed

nes

day

Th

urs

day

Frid

aySa

turd

aySu

nd

ay

Osun River Festival

Osun is the Orisha goddess of the river. She is

also associated with love, beauty and courage.

The Orisha community is not large (slavery was

not conducive to the maintaining of traditions)

but worship in the African religions is becoming

more visible.

Tobago Underwater

Carnival

A week-long dive festival: daily

north and south reef-diving

expeditions, seminars and presen-

tations on best diving practice.

Ediso

n Bo

odoo

singh

20* Public Holiday

Calendar

1

4

8

11

15

18

22

24 Republic Day *

2

3

9

10

16

17

23

25

29

30

September

Mo

nd

ayT

ues

day

Wed

nes

day

Th

urs

day

Frid

aySa

turd

aySu

nd

ay

Republic Day

The day in 1976 when T&T became a republic within

the Commonwealth, replacing the British monarch as

head of state with a president of its own choice. Public

parades, a presidential address, and one of Trinidad &

Tobago’s most significant horse racing events.

trinidad + tobago film

festival

The Caribbean’s second

largest film festival show-

cases shorts and full-length

productions from the

region and the diaspora,

plus workshops and training

sessions, storytelling.

Maracas Open

Water ClassicM

arlo

n Ja

mes

(cou

rtesy

ttff)


Amer-

indian

Heritage

Day

5

6

12

13

19

20

26

4

7

11

14

18

21

25 Divali *

(date TBA)

27

29

31

28

30

October

Mo

nd

ayT

ues

day

Wed

nes

day

Th

urs

day

Frid

aySa

turd

aySu

nd

ay

Ramleela

This nine-day Hindu festival precedes

Divali, and re-enacts scenes from the life

of Lord Rama, the main figure of the epic

Ramayan. Large-scale Ramleela produc-

tions take place in Couva and Felicity in

Central Trinidad.

Caf

é M

oka

22* Public Holiday

Calendar

Trinidad &

Tobago:

Pan is

Beautiful

XIII (starts

in October

and con-

tinues into

November

Hosay

(date TBA)

2

3 17 24

7

9 Pan,

Parang &

Pork

14

16

21

23

1

10

8 15 22

28

30

29

November

Mo

nd

ayT

ues

day

Wed

nes

day

Th

urs

day

Frid

aySa

turd

aySu

nd

ay

Hosay

Hosay is of Islamic origin

(and controversial in some

sections of the Muslim

community). It com-

memorates the martyrdom

of Hassan and Hussein,

grandsons of the Prophet

Mohammed.

Nic

hola

s Lau

ghlin


5

7

12

14

19

21

26Boxing Day *

28

4

6

11

13

18

20

25Christmas Day *

27

29

31Old Year’s

Night

30

December

Mo

nd

ayT

ues

day

Wed

nes

day

Th

urs

day

Frid

aySa

tSu

n

In many cases, firm dates are only announced close to the event. For up to date information, visit

the Discover Trinidad & Tobago or Tourism Development Company websites:

(www.discovertnt.com, www.gotrinidadandtobago.com)

Paramin Parang Festival

The Venezuelan influenced music of

T&T Christmas is played everywhere

from as early as October. The village of

Paramin, high in the hills of the Northern

Range, has a long-established reputation

for producing some of the finest paren-

deros - the singers, cuatro players and

drummers who make the music.

Parang

music

every-

where

Ediso

n Bo

odoo

singh

24 Trinidad

Five Tips for Planning your International Meeting in Trinidad and Tobago

A D V E R T O R I A L

Arguably one of the most business friendly destinations in the Caribbean, Trinidad and Tobago is the perfect location for international meetings. The destination’s expanding portfolio of hotels and meeting facilities are amply complemented

by an attractive capital city with historic buildings, a modern waterfront and a diverse leisure product, including health spas, golfing, bird watching, spectacular reefs, glorious rainforests, majestic mangroves, friendly people and enough festivals and excitement to make any visit unforgettable.

Perfectly facilitating this buzzing destination is the Trinidad and Tobago Convention Bureau, which provides international meeting planners with all the expertise and local knowledge required for the execution of flawless events.

A one-stop-shop for meeting planners, the Convention Bureau provides unbiased and professional advice and support, along with offering customised solutions that meet the specific needs of an event or group.

• Top 5 Destination Tips for Meeting Planners •

Be Informed Contact the Trinidad and Tobago Convention Bureau to start familiarising yourself with Trinidad and Tobago as a meeting and event location. The Convention Bureau can provide comprehensive information about meeting space and conference facilities in Trinidad and Tobago, as well as flights, transportation and tour options.

Get an Insider’s View To get a feel for the available venues and experience the tour offerings as well as sites and attractions, it is advisable to plan a site visit. The Convention Bureau can coordinate and arrange site visits for meeting planners. We can also arrange tailor-made tours by working closely with the Trinidad and Tobago Incoming Tour Operators Association and assist in finding local speakers and other resources.

Get Connected While email is quick, interpersonal communication via telephone is often a more effective way to get the ball rolling. The dedicated people at the Convention

Bureau are ready to chat with you and are always responsive to enquires. We can also provide contacts, introductions and comprehensive destination information, in addition to assisting with marketing and advertising.

Think about Accommodation After you have determined the venue which best suits your meeting or event, the Convention Bureau can assist in sourcing a wide range of accommodation options, from internationally branded chains to intimate boutique hotels, and bed and breakfast properties. We can also facilitate the RFP process and act as a liaison between meeting planners and hotels.

Get Ready for a Great Time Pre and post event, Trinidad and Tobago has amazing entertainment and attractions, from thrilling eco-experiences to sumptuous exotic culinary fare and the Caribbean’s biggest Carnival. The Convention Bureau can help meeting planners and groups enjoy the destination’s best experiences.

To learn more about hosting your event in this exciting Caribbean destination, contact the Trinidad & Tobago Convention Bureau at: [email protected] or visit www.gotrinidadandtobago.com/trinidad/meetings

Plan Trinidad & Tobago – your clients will love you for it.

Trinidad T &World Meetswhere the

obago

www.tdc.co.tt

• Two Islands, Two Unique Experiences• World Class Facilities • Spectacular sites and attractions• Idyllic Tobago

Contact Info: (868) 675-7034/7 E-mail: [email protected] Website: gotrinidadandtobago.com/trinidad/meetings


Five Tips for Planning your International Meeting in Trinidad and Tobago

A D V E R T O R I A L

Arguably one of the most business friendly destinations in the Caribbean, Trinidad and Tobago is the perfect location for international meetings. The destination’s expanding portfolio of hotels and meeting facilities are amply complemented

by an attractive capital city with historic buildings, a modern waterfront and a diverse leisure product, including health spas, golfing, bird watching, spectacular reefs, glorious rainforests, majestic mangroves, friendly people and enough festivals and excitement to make any visit unforgettable.

Perfectly facilitating this buzzing destination is the Trinidad and Tobago Convention Bureau, which provides international meeting planners with all the expertise and local knowledge required for the execution of flawless events.

A one-stop-shop for meeting planners, the Convention Bureau provides unbiased and professional advice and support, along with offering customised solutions that meet the specific needs of an event or group.

• Top 5 Destination Tips for Meeting Planners •

Be Informed Contact the Trinidad and Tobago Convention Bureau to start familiarising yourself with Trinidad and Tobago as a meeting and event location. The Convention Bureau can provide comprehensive information about meeting space and conference facilities in Trinidad and Tobago, as well as flights, transportation and tour options.

Get an Insider’s View To get a feel for the available venues and experience the tour offerings as well as sites and attractions, it is advisable to plan a site visit. The Convention Bureau can coordinate and arrange site visits for meeting planners. We can also arrange tailor-made tours by working closely with the Trinidad and Tobago Incoming Tour Operators Association and assist in finding local speakers and other resources.

Get Connected While email is quick, interpersonal communication via telephone is often a more effective way to get the ball rolling. The dedicated people at the Convention

Bureau are ready to chat with you and are always responsive to enquires. We can also provide contacts, introductions and comprehensive destination information, in addition to assisting with marketing and advertising.

Think about Accommodation After you have determined the venue which best suits your meeting or event, the Convention Bureau can assist in sourcing a wide range of accommodation options, from internationally branded chains to intimate boutique hotels, and bed and breakfast properties. We can also facilitate the RFP process and act as a liaison between meeting planners and hotels.

Get Ready for a Great Time Pre and post event, Trinidad and Tobago has amazing entertainment and attractions, from thrilling eco-experiences to sumptuous exotic culinary fare and the Caribbean’s biggest Carnival. The Convention Bureau can help meeting planners and groups enjoy the destination’s best experiences.

To learn more about hosting your event in this exciting Caribbean destination, contact the Trinidad & Tobago Convention Bureau at: [email protected] or visit www.gotrinidadandtobago.com/trinidad/meetings

Plan Trinidad & Tobago – your clients will love you for it.

Trinidad T &World Meetswhere the

obago

www.tdc.co.tt

• Two Islands, Two Unique Experiences• World Class Facilities • Spectacular sites and attractions• Idyllic Tobago

Contact Info: (868) 675-7034/7 E-mail: [email protected] Website: gotrinidadandtobago.com/trinidad/meetings

26 Trinidad

We are limers

It’s strange that the word “lime”, as it is used in Trinidad & Tobago, up the islands and through

the diaspora, is absent from most of the world’s leading dictionaries (New Oxford American

excepted). “Liming” is doing anything at all in company. Its closest English-language equivalent is

the American “hanging out”. You can lime with one person on a trip downtown to buy new shoes.

You can lime with a group of friends at a party (where you will meet new people with whom to

lime). You can lime cosily over coffee at a café.

The main thing to keep in mind is the spirit of the thing: an unquestioned acceptance that

things are more fun when done with some congenial others, with room for spontaneity. It is not,

as some have suggested, the art of doing nothing. Far from it. It is how to turn any and everything

you do into an opportunity for a good time.

Night limingAriapita Avenue runs through the middle of Woodbrook, a once genteel sort of residential area

west of Port of Spain. On the Avenue at least, all pretence of quiet family life has been quite lost.

The entire strip is lined with bars, restaurants, street food and very, very trendy crowds out for a

night of partying and liming. Once it’s not raining, chances are there’ll be as much going on on

the sidewalk as in the bar.

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Not five minutes away, the Western Main Road in

St James offers a less shnazz but even more populous

liming area. Here the bars are more functional than fancy:

you want a drink, they sell drinks. St James if our official-

unofficial city-that-never-sleeps. The music is loud, the

carousing is of the gritty variety, the street food is the best

in the country.

And. Everyone. Goes. There.

You’ll run into everyone from the person you bought fruit from that morning to ministers of state.

Out of Port of Spain, it’s harder to find dedicated liming zones. In San Fernando and Cha-

guanas, for instance, in south and central Trinidad respectively, there are clubs and restaurants

aplenty but not concentrated in one area. So too in St Augustine and Trincity in the east. Over the

past few years, the night clubs of those areas have been upping their game, achieving a tough feat:

they’re getting Port of Spain partiers to head out of town for their entertainment.

Think about: live entertainment. Almost anywhere you go, you’ll find good music

and lots of variety. But a live band, local, and one that plays originals and not only cov-

ers, is definitely a treat to look out for.

Important: If you’ve rented

a car, be sure to obey park-

ing guidelines or risk being

towed by the police.

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Top ten things to do for free

Carnival spirit If you’re here for Carnival, listen to

the steelbands rehearsing in the pan-

yards, watch the costumed bands on

Monday and Tuesday; catch tradition-

al Carnival characters appearing in

the week before Carnival. All for free.

Birds and butterfliesTrinidad has a staggering number

of birds and butterflies. Drive up to

Mount St Benedict in Tunapuna and

walk the grounds or the butterfly

trail.

Browsing Frederick Street runs through the heart of Port of Spain

and gives a fair idea of what you’ll find all over the island in

shopping areas and malls. Plenty of local craft and hand-

made goods.

Visit a Hindu temple Those in central Trinidad have become quite grand. The

one on Ethel Street in St James was the first in the coun-

try to be built with actual architectural plans. For some

fine colonial architecture, look out for Anglican and

Catholic cathedrals and churches.

Hit the beach Most beaches in Trinidad and Tobago are public.

If you’re in Tobago, you should be able to walk to

one. In Trinidad, you’ll need to work out transport.


Alice Yard On Roberts Street in Woodbrook, this is a contemporary

arts/performance space and network, and there’s usu-

ally something interesting going on there.

www.aliceyard.blogspot.com or

www.facebook.com/aliceyard

Queen’s Park SavannahWalk, ride, or run around the Queen’s

Park Savannah in Port of Spain.

Nearby, the Botanical Gardens and

the row of eclectic, eccentric build-

ings called the Magnificent Seven.

Hot work maybe – have a coconut or

sno-cone for recovery. Or both.

Discover the artists Port of Spain has some good private, commercial

art galleries, often showing work by leading paint-

ers, sculptors and jewellers. The National Museum

and Art Gallery has some treasures too, but the

space itself is not in excellent condition.

Weavers of the Dust. One of artist LeRoy Clarke’s most famous paintings. More work from the Mas-ter Artist can be seen at DE LEGACY... HOUSE OF EL TUCUCHE. It’s in Wellsprings, Cascade, just outside of Port of Spain. Clarke himself often shows you around while discussing all things art.

30 Trinidad

ChaguaramasThe Chaguaramas peninsula, west of Port of Spain, has

a new waterside boardwalk. Find out what the “bamboo

cathedral” is, or walk to Edith Falls from the car park of the

golf course; check out the marinas and enjoy the breeze

off the sea and the boats at anchor.

Check the calendar for celebrations and festivals It’s a rare week when there’s

nothing happening, secular or

religious, day or night. Carnival,

Divali, Hosay, Emancipation Day,

various Borough Days, Indepen-

dence and Republic Days. You

can often catch live music at

various clubs and bars (check the

daily papers).

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Yachts at anchor


We are Carnival

Carnival is excessive, expressive, and full of glorious abandon. Like those in Brazil and

Venice, it’s premised on the idea of a grand romp before the austerity of the Christian

season of Lent. Once we’ve finished our Christmas feasting, our Carnival feting begins in ear-

nest. In 2014, Carnival Monday and Tuesday fall on March 3-4; that gives us just over two months

to obsess over the season’s new calypso and soca tunes and fit in as many fetes as possible

before the two-day street parade.

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Fetes are just huge parties by another name, but they provide the training you need to make

the most of the big days to come. You need to jump, wave and dance with thousands of

strangers in the comparative safety of the party zone before you can really lose your inhibitions

(and most of your clothes). From the mud, paint and cocoa of J’ouvert in the darkness of early

Monday morning, through the two days of street parades, to the frazzled, exhausted frenzy of

Las Lap on Tuesday night, you want to have as few inhibitions as possible.

While the glamorous tiny, sequined costumes rule the streets, there are still some “tradition-

al” characters and events – swaggering Dames Lorraines, oratorical Midnight Robbers, prancing

fire-eating Blue Devils, Pierrots, Jab-Jabs. They’re worth

looking out for. Below Kees Diffenthaler of Kes the Band.

Opposite page J’ouvert in full swing.

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34 Trinidad

www.trinidadcarnivaldiary.com

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Thinking about it?

If you plan on playing mas, that is, getting a costume and being part of one of the parade

bands, you’ll find it’s simple. Most of the bigger and more popular masquerade bands now

have websites where you can view and buy costumes online. That goes for J’ouvert bands too.

Important note: While the main website photographs may be of the most va-va-voom, Brazilian-style

costumes, there are usually different versions on offer for each design. If you’re not ready for too much

self-exposure, look for the one-piece suits, the more demure two-piece ensembles and other options.

Carnival safety

If you’re going to take part in the festivities, recall all the things you know and practise as a

safety-conscious traveller and ramp them up a bit. It’s easy to get lost or lose something in a

hedonistic atmosphere involving large crowds. So stick with friends, pre-arrange meeting points

in case you become separated, don’t carry wads of money or wear easily detachable valuables

at parties or on the road. Take care of that expensive camera, and don’t forget about your sur-

roundings completely, or the people nearby. Helpful checklists appear in the daily papers on

how to have a safe Carnival without sacrificing the fun.

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36

Dimanche Gras

Carnival Sunday night’s big show tradi-

tionally sees the crowning of the Calypso

Monarch and the King and Queen of the Band

(but new formats are being tried out)

J’ouvert

The official start of Carnival. Covered in mud,

paint, oil or cocoa, the masses take to the

streets from as early as 4am on Carnival Mon-

day morning

Las Lap

Carnival officially ends at midnight on Tues-

day. Once the day’s formal parade and

competition are over, bands can roam

where they want, for the sheer joy of it,

until the clocks strike 12

Mas

Short for “masquerade”

Panorama

Steelbands of all sizes, from all over the coun-

try, compete here for the most coveted title

on the pannist’s calendar

Parade of the Bands

The procession of large and small costumed

bands on the streets on Carnival Monday and

Tuesday. They follow a set route (more or less).

Monday starts late and is basically a warm-up;

Tuesday starts early, and that’s when the full

costumes come out

Pretty mas

Bands with costumes of bikini-and-beads and

strategically placed feathers. The term distin-

guishes them from other types of mas (“sailor

mas”, traditional mas”, “mud mas”)

Soca Monarch

This competition has overshadowed the long-

established Calypso Monarch contest. The

faster rhythms of today’s dance music draw

fanatical audiences as the singers pull out all

the stops for this highlight of the season

Traditional mas

A cast of familiar costumed characters (stock

figures as in commedia dell’arte). Long before

the arrival of the pretty mas bands, the Mid-

night Robber, Dame Lorraine and Pierrot Gre-

nade provided the theatre of the streets

Wining

To “wine” is to dance, but deploying hips and

waist more than feet. It is a mild gyration at its

tamest, blatantly sexual at the other end of the

spectrum

Glossary of terms

Trinidad


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38 Trinidad

Vacation

Family

Quality Service

Trinidad & Tobago Inter-Island

Ferry Service

T&

TINTER - ISLAN

TRANSPORTATION CO.L

T&

TINTER - ISLAND

TRANSPORTATION CO.LT

D


We CelebratePanorama Finals (February)The climax of the steelband

year: the cream of the crop

battle it out in furious

competition for the title of

Panorama Champions.

Soca Monarch Finals (February) This annual double-header takes place on Carnival Friday (“Fantastic Friday”) and showcases

soca artists from around the region vying for two different titles: Power Soca Monarch and

Groovy Soca Monarch.

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40 Trinidad

Spiritual Shouter Baptist Liberation Day (March – public holiday)A celebration of religious freedom. On this day in 1951, the colonial Shouters Prohibition Or-

dinance of 1917 was repealed: it had outlawed the activities of the Shouter or Spiritual Baptists.

Tobago Jazz Experience (April)Tobago’s biggest annual music event; a musical odyssey across the island, from Speyside to

Signal Hill, Scarborough to Castara, ending at the Pigeon Point Heritage Park. Though billed as

a jazz concert, it is a truly eclectic blend, embracing calypso, soca, chutney, latin and contem-

porary as well as jazz. Usually held during the last week of April. Past headliners include Sting,

Chaka Khan, Erykah Badu, Elton John, Stevie Wonder, Mary J. Blige, India.Arie, Diana Ross and

Dionne Warwick.

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Phagwa (March)The Hindu spring festival, also

known as Holi. Participants

douse one another in colour-

ful vegetable dyes known

as abir. Traditional folksongs

called chowtals are sung to the

pulsating rhythms of dholak

drums.


Ganga Dhaara Festival (June)The main observances happen at the Marianne River, but the trek starts in the Blanchisseuse

forest in the pre-dawn darkness. Lit deyas in prayer boats made of coconut fibre are floated

along the mountain river. Devotees, mostly dressed in yellow, stand in the water or line the

banks or stony hillocks.

Indian Arrival Day (May – public holiday) Until the 1830s, agricultural estates

were worked by imported African

slaves. After emancipation, colonial

Britain solved the labour crisis by im-

porting over 140,000 labourers from

India between 1845 and 1917. This

holiday marks their first landing in

Trinidad. Nearly 170 years later, African

and Indian descendants each account

for about 35% of the population.

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NGC Bocas Lit Fest: The Trinidad & Tobago Literary Festival (April)

This annual literary festival at the end of the month

brings together readers, writers and publishers for

a four-day celebration of books and writing, with

readings, performers, workshops and discussions.

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42 Trinidad

We Beat Festival (June)Centered around the Western Main Road in St James, featuring vintage kaiso (calypso), talent

shows and a steelband parade at the end. Most of these events take place at the St James Am-

phitheatre.

Corpus Christi (June – public holiday)The feast of Corpus Christi (Latin for “body of Christ”) is celebrated by Catholics in honour of the

sacramental Eucharist, with a procession in downtown Port of Spain.

Santa Rosa Festival (July)The Amerindian (First Peoples) community in Arima remembers its long (and not always happy)

relationship with the Roman Catholic church; the event is named after Santa Rosa de Lima,

the first Catholic saint in the “new world”. There’s a church procession, highlighting the Carib

Queen, with music and entertainment including parang competitions and traditional prepara-

tion of cassava bread.

Eid-ul-Fitr (July – public holiday)This Islamic holiday signals the end of

the holy month of Ramadan. Muslim fami-

lies gather for prayer in mosques and large,

open air spaces, followed by the greeting

and exchange of gifts and good wishes

between worshippers. The date may vary

slightly according to circumstances. About

5% of the national population is Muslim.

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Hosay (November)Hosay is of Islamic origin, though its religiosity is heavily debated within the Muslim community.

It commemorates the martyrdom of Hassan and Hussein, grandsons of the Prophet Moham-

med, and is principally observed in St James, though processions can also be seen in Cedros

and Curepe. Tadjahs, ornamented replicas of Hussein’s tomb, are carried through the streets to

the rhythmic accompaniment of tassa drumming.

Divali (October – public holiday)The simplest things can create the most ar-

resting sights. Small clay bowls known as

deyas are filled with oil, lit by cotton wicks,

and displayed in their thousands in homes,

mandirs and public spaces for the Hindu

“festival of lights”. The tiny flames symbol-

ise the victory of righteous forces over evil.

Hindus, representing over 18% of the popu-

lation, perform religious ceremonies in wor-

ship of Lakshmi, the goddess of light and

prosperity.

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44 Trinidad

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We’d like to show you ...Around Port of SpainUptown

The Queen’s Park Savannah is the city’s green heart, the haunt of everyone from cricketers

and footballers to joggers and kite-flyers. On the northern side are the Emperor Valley Zoo,

the Botanical Gardens, and the President’s House, now being renovated. On the western

side are “the Magnificent Seven”, a quirky mix of historic buildings, several in dire need of

restoration. From south to north they are, Queen’s Royal College; Hayes Court (home

to the Anglican bishop); Milles Fleurs; Roomor (privately owned); the Roman Catholic

archbishop’s house; Whitehall (formerly the Prime Minister’s office); and Killarney or

Stollmeyer’s Castle.

The National Academy of Performing Arts, with its multiple stages and performance

spaces lies just to the south of the Savannah. The much older (but beautifully renovated)

Queen’s Hall is at the Savannah’s northeast corner.

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Stollmeyer’s Castle

46 Trinidad

DowntownThe Brian Lara Promenade runs

east-west down the middle of

Independence Square, the focal

point of downtown Port of Spain.

At the western end, it borders the

waterfront and ferry terminal; at the

eastern end is the (Roman Catho-

lic) Cathedral of the Immaculate

Conception, where our many eth-

nicities are depicted in the stained

glass.

A few blocks to the north is

Woodford Square, laid out by a Brit-

ish colonial governor nearly 200 years ago. Traditionally used for political rallies, it is bordered by

the Red House (the customary seat of parliament, now being renovated), the Hall of Justice (law

courts), the National Library and the (Anglican) Holy Trinity Cathedral.

Beyond the capitalAsa Wright Nature Centre & LodgeNestled in the hills at the head of the Arima valley, this 193-acre eco-centre and former estate house

is a world-renowned study centre and guesthouse where visitors can see a huge variety of bird life.

Originally a cocoa and coffee plantation, it was bought by an Englishman, Dr Newcombe Wright,

and his Icelandic wife Asa in 1947, and acquired two years later by the New York Zoological Society

as a research station. After her husband’s death, Mrs Wright sold the land on condition that it re-

mained a conservation area; a non-profit trust was set up in 1967.

The Centre provides guided tours, nature trails, bird watching, a plunge pool, restaurant, and gift

shop. The veranda has fantastic views down the Armia Val-

ley, and is a great place for bird photography. The restau-

rant serves good local cuisine (reservations recommend-

ed). Visit www.asawright.org for more information.

Top Fountain in Woodford Square.Opposite page, clockwise from top

Red-rumped agouti; green honeycreeper; blue-backed manakin; spectacled caiman,

southern tamandua, tufted cocquette.

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Chaguaramas National Heritage ParkChaguaramas is a playground for nature-lovers and eco-adventurers: hiking trails, historic

landmarks, a military museum, golf course, restaurants, marinas, waterfalls, beaches (in-

cluding the popular Macqueripe), land sports (cycling, hashing, mountain biking), water

sports (kayaking, sailing, yachting, power boating, dragon-boat racing), and boats to the

offshore islands. A recently constructed boardwalk starts at Williams Bay, and there are bike

trails, gazebos for cooking, liming spots, rest areas, roller-blading and fishing. Zip lining is a

new experience for Trinidad – the lines overlook the peninsula, both coast and forest – and

it’s catching on fast.

Offshore, the 30m (98ft) deep limestone Gasparee Caves on Gaspar Grande island are

breathtakingly beautiful. Tours are arranged with registered tour guides, or the Chaguara-

mas Development Authority.

Chaguaramas was a US military base during

World War II, a signal station in the hills and several

buildings survive from that time.

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This page This abandoned house on the island of Chacachacare was the living quarters for the doctor caring for patients at the leprosarium on the island. Rumoured to be haunted.

48 Trinidad


Banwari TraceThe oldest pre-Columbian site in the West In-

dies, on the southern shore of the Oropouche

Lagoon south of San Fernando, dating to

about 5,000 BC. Excavations have unearthed

stone tools and the earliest human skeleton so

far recovered anywhere in the Caribbean. The

site probably represents one of the first settle-

ments established by the Caribbean’s First

People as they emigrated northwards from

South America into the Caribbean islands.

ChaguanasHome of traditional Indian pottery, and the

site of Nobel laureate VS Naipaul’s childhood

home, Lion House.

Devil’s Woodyard Mud VolcanoNear Princes Town, and not as terrifying as

its name suggests (European settlers weren’t

sure how to explain the bubbling and rum-

bling), this is one of many small mud vol-

canoes in the southland. Mud volcanoes

emit hot mud through a vent or fissure,

propelled by methane or other gases below

the surface. Though usually quiet, the Devil’s

Woodyard can occasionally produce large

muddy eruptions.

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Fort GeorgeDriving west out of Port of Spain, you’ll

see this colonial-era signal station on

the crest of a ridge 335m (1,100ft) above

the city (access from St James). Can-

nons, a small museum, and magnificent

panoramic views of the west coast.

50 Trinidad

Divali Nagar Centre The Divali Nagar site just north of Chaguanas

is the venue for many Hindu activities and

performances – lectures, Indian trade fairs,

cultural shows, Divali celebrations. A 12m

(39ft) statue of Swami Vivekananda keeps a

watchful eye over the area.

Galera Point, TocoA magnificent headland marks the northeast-

ern tip of Trinidad, where the navy-blue Atlan-

tic meets the electric-blue Caribbean Sea.

Hanuman Temple & Dattatreya Yoga Centre The distinctive 26m (85ft) statue of the Hindu

god Hanuman near Carapichaima is the tall-

est of its kind outside India, and towers over

the Yoga Centre and mandir.

La Vega Garden CentreThis estate in Gran Couva, home to a range of

plants and trees, is popular for picnics, kayak-

ing, and outdoor activities.

Lopinot In the Northern Range foothills, Lopinot

was once a cocoa estate. Now there is

a small museum in the former estate

house, near the old slave quarters and

prison. The estate was developed by

the Compte de Lopinot, who fled Haiti

for Trinidad after the 1791 Haitian revo-

lution (and is said to appear on stormy

nights astride a white horse – Lopinot

was featured on the popular US televi-

sion show Ghost Hunters International).

The area is now popular for sports, river

bathing, cave exploration, and parang

music around Christmas time.

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Mount St Benedict Church & Monastery Perched 240m (800ft) up in the Northern Range

above St Augustine and Tunapuna, the oldest

Benedictine monastery in the Caribbean offers

panoramic views of the Caroni plains and be-

yond. Built in 1912, its 600 acres support nature

trails, an art gallery and studio, a gift shop, and

a guesthouse and café, as well as the central

church. The monks produce excellent yoghurt

and honey.

National Science CentreOn the southern side of the highway to Arima,

hands-on science exhibitions for both adults

and children.

Northern RangeThis range is a continuation of one branch of

the great South American cordilleras, rising

to over 914m (3,000ft) into elfin woodland

at El Tucuche and Cerro del Aripo. Well worth

exploring, but you’ll need a good guide. The

Heights of Guanapo, the Guanapo Gorge, and

the Sombasson and La Laja waterfalls are big

attractions. Large colonies of bats and oil birds

inhabit the Aripo Caves.

Pitch Lake A slowly-churning lake of natural bitumen, covering about half a square kilometre, at La Brea.

Natural springs, said to have healing properties, appear at its centre during the rainy season.

Most of the surface is hard enough to walk on. A small museum houses some (sometimes

bizarre) artefacts that have been recovered from the pitch.

Point LisasTrinidad’s first major industrial complex

sprawls along the west coast near Couva,

housing an international port and a range

of plants fuelled by the country’s own

natural gas; it produces steel and petro-

chemicals (methanol, ammonia, urea) and

a range of downstream products. Guided

tours available.

Pointe-à-Pierre Wild Fowl TrustA magnificent 25-hectare (62-acre) sanc-

tuary and breeding centre for endangered

waterfowl, with a learning centre and

eco-lodge. It is actually hidden away on

the grounds of the oil refinery at Pointe-à-

Pierre, so you need to make reservations.

Visit www.papwildfowltrust.org.

San Fernando Hill In the middle of Trinidad’s second city, San

Fernando, this hill is a national park, despite

being badly scarred by quarrying. It has

magnificent views of the city, the Gulf of

Paria, the Caroni Plains and Northern Range.

Picnic huts and a children’s play area.

52 Trinidad

SwamplandsThe Caroni Bird Sanctuary is an extensive

area of lagoon, marshland and swamp on the

northwest coast. The highlight: flocks of rare

scarlet ibis flying home to roost each evening

at dusk – an unforgettable sight. Boat tours

last a couple of hours from late afternoon to

dusk (though T&T Sightseeing Tours operates

tours all day). On the opposite side, the east

coast, the Nariva Swamp & Bush-Bush Wildlife

Sanctuary is the largest swamp in either island.

You’ll need a guide and permit to explore it by

kayak for a glimpse of manatees in their natu-

ral habitat, anacondas, caimans, and bird life.

Turtle watchingTrinidad’s northeast coast (like

southwest Tobago’s) is among the

world’s most important turtle nest-

ing grounds. During nesting months

(March-August), from mid-evening

through early morning, female tur-

tles – endangered leatherbacks as

well as hawksbill, green and occa-

sional loggerheads and olive ridleys – heave

themselves out of the ocean and crawl up

the beach. Laboriously, they dig nests in the

sand and deposit their eggs, carefully camou-

flaging the spot. Two months later, the eggs

hatch, and the baby turtles make a dash for

the sea; few survive the predators and make

it to maturity. Grande Rivière and Matura are

both popular and protected beaches.

Temple in the Sea, WaterlooA Hindu temple built literally in the sea

a short way offshore, accessible by a

causeway. Indian indentured labourer

Siewdass Sadhu toiled for decades to

build it after being forbidden to build

on colonial land.

Note: permits are required, and can be arranged by tour operators and hotels. Go with a guide, and give nesting tur-tles lots of space, especially during the digging and covering process. Do not touch or in any way disturb them – lights and activity can disorient turtles and hatchlings. Don’t pick up hatchlings or impede their progress to the sea, and don’t drive on nesting beaches, as vehicles can crush whole clutches of eggs hidden in the sand.

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We are hikersOf all the out-doorsy things you can do in Trinidad & Tobago, hiking is one of the best.

Much like the country, hikes can accommodate almost everyone, from the gentle soul

who’s looking for equally gentle terrain to the most intrepid, bring-it-on types.

Comfortable rambles for beginnersEdith Falls (Chaguaramas, northwestern peninsula)

The trail is well marked by the Chaguaramas Development Authority. Ideal for novice hikers, it

reveals a broad range of local flora and fauna, culminating in a breath-taking view of the 250-

foot (76-metre) falls. Estimated completion time: 30 minutes at a leisurely pace.

Rio Seco (Salybia, northeast coast)

Complete with a fine natural swimming pool, these falls are part of Matura National Park. The

trail paths are largely shaded by mora rainforest canopy. Estimated completion time: 45-60 min-

utes, trekking casually.

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54 Trinidad

Maracas Waterfalls (Maracas/St Joseph Valley, north Trinidad)

The trail leads through rich forest scene to Trinidad’s tallest waterfall, tower-

ing 299 feet (91 metres) high. Estimated completion time: 30-45 minutes,

meandering peaceably.

For the intermediate hikerTurure Water Steps (Cumaca, northeast Trinidad)

Natural limestone provides safe paths for exploration. The hike ends in bath-

ing pools beside the Water Steps themselves: the unique rock face delights

budding geologists. Estimated completion time: an hour, at a steady pace.

For seasoned hikers only!Saut d’Eau (Paramin, northwest Trinidad)

Veterans love the challenge of this gruelling trek: a high-altitude start leads

steeply down to an expanse of secluded beachfront. The uphill return is truly

not for the faint of heart. Estimated completion time: three blood-pumping

hours, there and back again.

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Mar

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Maracas BayThe top choice for those in Port of

Spain. A beautiful semi-enclosed

bay, 40 minutes from town along

the scenic North Coast Road. The

water can generate strong currents.

Parking, basic facilities, hotel and

gas station nearby. Vendors sell local

food, including the signature dish,

bake and shark. However, with the

shark population on the decline, you

might consider trying some of the

other offerings like catfish, kingfish,

cheese or shrimp. Have a sandwich,

save a shark!

Other choicesMacqueripe: small and secluded, on the north coast

of the Chaguaramas peninsula, 20 minutes from town;

some of the best swimming and snorkelling in Trinidad.

Parking and changing room facilities, small entrance fee

Tyrico: right next door to Maracas (at the eastern end),

and usually quieter

Las Cuevas: a short drive beyond Maracas, with good

bathing, calmer water, and small caves at the far end.

Snack bar, car park, tables, benches, lifeguards, chang-

ing rooms with showers and toilets

Blanchisseuse: a popular weekend getaway at the

end of the north coast road, about an hour from Port

of Spain. Hiking trails, guesthouses and holiday homes,

kayaking on the Marianne River that flows into the bay

From Port of Spain

56 Trinidad

Other choicesManzanilla: the northern extension of Mayaro: the road

wanders through coconut plantation (the Cocal) along

the shore. A few guesthouses and holiday homes for

rent nearby; some facilities at the northern end, and life-

guards in some areas

Balandra: sheltered, good for swimming, even body-

surfing at the rougher end of the bay

Matura: rough water, but between March and August this

is a popular and important leatherback turtle nesting site

Paria: turtles also come ashore in season at this pristine

bay, accessible only by hiking or by boat; waterfalls and

rocky pools nearby.

Saline (“Sally”) Bay: not to be confused with Salybia

Bay further north: good for swimming, with clear water

and facilities on site

Salybia: a popular bay for surfing (November-April); good

swimming between June and September. Fringing reef off

the eastern end, unusual for Trinidad; beach facilities

The east coastMayaro The longest beach in the

island stretches for miles

along the Atlantic coast,

great for walks; noted for its

“chip chip” (small, suppos-

edly aphrodisiac molluscs

buried in the sand), and

fishermen bringing in their

catch, called “pulling seine”,

in the evening. Popular for

long weekends (it’s 90-

120 minutes from Port of

Spain) and public holidays;

vacation homes and guest-

houses. The currents and

undertow can be surpris-

ingly strong, so take serious

care in the water.

Nic

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Above Easter holidayers camping on the beach


The northeast coast

Vessigny BeachQuiet during the week (usually), and a week-

end venue for beach parties and excursions.

Changing rooms, picnic tables.

Other choices

Grande Rivière Small, friendly north-coast fishing village, two

hours or more from Port of Spain, perfect for

a weekend getaway. Its placid main beach is a

major leatherback turtle nesting ground. Good

bird watching, river bathing, hiking and kayak-

ing; hotels, guesthouses and cottages for rent.

Other choicesSans Souci: between Toco and Grande

Rivière, a slightly sloping bay with choppy

waves, a favourite with surfers

Lifeguards are typically on duty 9am-5pm or 10am-6pm, but not at all beaches. Red flags indicate unsafe bathing areas. Sunscreen and insect repellent are essential – tropical sun can quickly give a bad burn, even through cloud, and mosquito-born illnesses like dengue fever are still health threats.

Granville Beach: a lengthy stretch of sand,

shallow water at low tide. Popular at weekends

and for post-Carnival cool-down parties. The

road to the beach is an adventure in itself – but

have faith, keep following the signs

Columbus & Cedros Bays: on the south-

western peninsula, a longish drive from Port

of Spain, but both are irresistible in good

weather. Cedros has the widest beach on the

island at low tide. Good views of the south-

west coast and, on clear days, neighbouring

Venezuela. No facilities but, this being Trini-

dad, there are food and drink establishments

nearby

Quinam: the most popular south coast

beach, about a mile long. Calm water good

for swimming, and the sand is fine and

brown, though it disappears at high tide. A

favourite for family weekend outings; trails

into the woods

The south & southwest

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58 Trinidad

We are contenders

Athletics The big local events are the annual Hamp-

ton Games at the Hasely Crawford Stadium

in Port of Spain and the Southern Games

at Guaracara Park, Pointe-à-Pierre. There

are 45 athletics clubs across the country;

the presiding body is the National Amateur

Athletics Association.

BasketballOver the years we have supplied several play-

ers to professional NBA teams. It’s popular with

youngsters at high school level and with ama-

teurs of all ages, as constantly crowded public

courts can attest. The Jean Pierre Complex (Port

of Spain) and the Sport & Physical Education

Centre (St Augustine) are the main venues, with

others in Maloney, Point Fortin and Pleasantville.

Cycling We’ve been avid cycling fans for a long

time, and the Easter International Grand

Prix is one of the most eagerly anticipated

events on the sport calendar. Other ma-

jor events are the Tobago Cycling Clas-

sic, the Rainbow Cup Triathlon, West

Indies vs. the World, and the National Champi-

onships. The Queen’s Park Savannah and the

Arima Velodrome are prime venues.

Dragon boat racingThis 2,000-year-old sport is catching

on in both islands, with several clubs

following rigorous regimes to com-

pete internationally. Competitions

are held at local beaches in both

Trinidad & Tobago, where thousands

of athletes and supporters enjoy the

weather and the competition.

Trinidad & Tobago Dragon Boat

Federation: www.ttdbf.webs.com

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singh

Apart from games which require a temperate climate, we dabble in just about anything

involving a ball, net or finish line. Here are some of our favourites.


CricketEnormously popular here and throughout the West Indies, with an intense rivalry between islands. The relatively recent T20 format and the Caribbean Pre-mier League have pumped new life and excitement into the sport. The Queen’s Park Oval in Port of Spain is a beautiful venue for international Tests and One-Day Internationals, and has been the home of the Queen’s Park Cricket Club since 1891.

www.ttcb.co.tt

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60 Trinidad

Gyms & health clubsGyms are everywhere, not least at larger

hotels and malls; many offer weekly, monthly

and daily passes which allow visitors access

to group exercise classes, aerobics, spin, etc.

Yoga and pilates are popular ways of pursuing

health and wellness.

Hiking & hashing Hiking is popular, especially guided weekend

hikes to some of the island’s most dramatic

caves and waterfalls. The Port of Spain Hash

House Harriers host a 100-strong bi-weekly

event, with healthy attention to the social side

of things.

Hockey The hockey year is split in two: an indoor

season (September-January) and an outdoor

season (March-August), on Tacarigua’s Astro-

turf in Trinidad and at the Dwight Yorke Sta-

dium in Tobago.

Horse racingEvery weekend hundreds gather at the Santa

Rosa Park near Arima to gamble, frolic and

generally have a great time – a pretty good

reflection of our culture on the whole. Thor-

oughbreds pound the dirt most Saturdays

and public holidays, totalling about 40 race

days a year. Prestige events include New Year

races, Derby Day, Diamond Stakes, Midsum-

mer Classic, President’s Cup and the Santa

Rosa Classic.

Trinidad & Tobago Racing Authority:

www.ttra.net

Horse ridingIn Trinidad, dressage and show jumping in-

struction can be found at stables in Santa

Cruz and St Ann’s. For trail riding, contact

Hidden Valley (Chaguaramas) or Bonanza

Stud Farm (Arima).

KayakingRiver kayaking is best in the wet season when

rivers are full. The Yara and Marianne Rivers

on the north coast are popular; so is the Nari-

va Swamp where the Godineau River takes

you through saltwater mangrove swamps

and freshwater marshland. The Kayak Centre

in Chaguaramas offers the sheltered waters

of Williams Bay and provides equipment.

GolfTrinidad has three 18-hole courses, at

St Andrew’s Golf Club in Moka, Millen-

nium Lakes in Trincity, and the Pointe-à-

Pierre Golf Club at the Petrotrin refinery

near San Fernando. There are nine-hole

courses at Brechin Castle, Usine St Mad-

eleine and Chaguaramas.


Football “Soccer” is a universal language that speaks to us. Everywhere you turn you can see a ball zealot scuffling across any blade of grass, concrete, or gravel he can find. In 2006, Trinidad & Tobago became the smallest country ever to reach the finals of the World Cup. It is likely the most popular sport in the country, from the school leagues to our national team, the Soca Warriors, to the local players who represent us in famous clubs around the world. Soca Warriors: www.socawarriors.net

www.ttffonline.com

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62 Trinidad

Motor sports Rally Trinidad and Rally Tobago are the big events. Drag

racing is popular, though lacking a permanent base.

Locations in south and central Trinidad include the pop-

ular Zig Zag and Indian Trail tracks in Couva. American

autocross defensive driving competitions and karting

events are held in the car park of the Santa Rosa race

track.

NetballAt the international level, netball has been Trinidad & To-

bago’s most successful team sport. We won the World

Netball Championship in 1979 and our women have ex-

celled ever since. Trinidad & Tobago Netball Association:

[email protected]

Mountain bikingChaguaramas is ideal for beginners, but

the Santa Cruz valley and Matura-Matelot

are popular stretches.

Power boatsIn late August, powerboats vie for

supremacy on an 84-mile route

from Trinidad to Tobago in the Carib

Great Race.

RugbyNot the most popular sport, but we’ve

done very well internationally. Our

teams have done us proud and are

showing more and more promise as

players get the chance to join top re-

gional clubs. Trinidad & Tobago Rugby

Football Union: www.ttrfu.com

SailingTrinidad has one of the largest rac-

ing fleets in the Caribbean, and

Chaguaramas is a major sailing hub.

The racing season begins around

November-December and contin-

ues till May-June. The Sailing As-

sociation hosts over a dozen races,

including general handicap races

where any boat can take part. The

Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Associa-

tion: www.ttsailing.org

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Mixed martial arts (MMA) A few MMA gyms have opened in Port of Spain, and

their events have been flooded with fans. Trinidadian

Dwayne Hinds has dominated the sport regionally

and is set to take the world by storm.

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64 Trinidad

Swimming Competitive swimming always had its fans, but the glory

of local hero George Bovell III (four-time Olympian) has

increased its popularity. Swimming Association of Trini-

dad & Tobago: www.swimtt.com

TennisThere are public courts at King George V Park in St

Clair, and courts can be rented by the hour at the

Trinidad Country Club and some hotels. Courts

at Tranquillity and Westmoorings require yearly

membership. Tennis Association of Trinidad & Tobago:

www.tennistt.info

The Trinidad & Tobago Olympic Committee website, www.ttoc.org, documents all sports in

which Trinidad & Tobago participates.

Sport fishingOnshore fishing is popular in

Chaguaramas, Las Cuevas, Galera

Point and the mouth of the Nariva

River, while popular boat-fishing

spots include the Chaguaramas

islands, where fishermen troll for

carite, kingfish and cavalli, and bank

for redfish, salmon and croakers (or

grunt). The key offshore seasons are

October-April for marlin, sailfish,

wahoo, tuna and dorado, and May-

September for barracuda, kingfish,

bonito, and snapper.

SurfingTrinidad’s north coast beaches pro-

vide satisfactory swells from Novem-

ber to March, though the wet sea-

son (and the occasional hurricane

passing further north) can generate

strong waves as well. But even in

peak season, surfing isn’t possible

every day. Sans Souci, Las Cuevas,

L’Anse Mitan, Grande Rivière, Rough-

side and Salybia are favourite surfing

spots. In March, the Surfing Associa-

tion stages the CSN Sans Souci, the

first event in the cross-Caribbean

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Heart & Soul: Yoga

There are dozens of yoga studios across the country – Akasha Studio, Bliss Yoga and

The Sangha among them – offering classes in various traditions such as Kundalini,

Ashtanga and Hatha. Most studios are open-air, though some are quiet air-conditioned

rooms. Classes are generally very affordable, and some are even donation-based. There are

classes for kids and teenagers too.

In Tobago, Elspeth Duncan teaches group classes at the Kariwak Hotel. Her company,

Thou Art Yoga, offers one-on-one Kundalini yoga weekend retreats known as WOW – Won-

derful One Weekend. She also does workshops and Kundalini yoga and creativity retreats for

small groups.

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66 Trinidad

We are artists of all kinds

Despite our famous “fete culture”, we don’t actually spend all our time jumping and

prancing. There’s a rich and varied arts scene, for example, with enough theatre groups,

fashion designers, writers, musicians, filmmakers, dance companies and visual artists to keep

you busy and engaged every night of the week.

DanceCaribbean people are natural dancers, and a

dance performance might mean folk, ballet,

jazz, modern, Indian, African, Latin, Chinese …

Fashion & jewelleryThere’s a confident and fast-developing fash-

ion industry with some highly gifted design-

ers; lovely handcrafted jewellery is produced

by, among others, Barbara Jardine, Rachel

Ross, Jasmine Thomas Girvan.

Film & cinemaThe trinidad+tobago film festival in late

September/early October screens local

and diaspora features and shorts. The Eu-

ropean Film Festival (October) screens new

and classic European movies. Multiplexes

(MovieTowne in Port of Spain, Chaguanas

and Tobago; Caribbean Cinemas 8 in Trincity)

have all but replaced single-screen cinemas.

Literature The big names include VS Naipaul, Earl

Lovelace, Michael Anthony, and the late Sam

Selvon among the veterans. Look for titles

by Lawrence Scott, Elizabeth Nunez, Shani

Mootoo, Robert Antoni, Elizabeth Walcott-

Hardy. Monique Roffey won the 2013 Bocas

Prize. For beautiful memoir-esque writing, get

your hands on Wayne Brown’s work. Vahni

Capildeo’s poetry manages to be timeless

and other-worldly at the same time. Paper

Based bookshop in St Ann’s is one of the best

places to find local and West Indian reading.


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68 Trinidad

Music The music that was invented and developed in Trinidad & Tobago – calypso, soca, steelpan – is

best heard at Carnival time, though there are shows of one sort or another most months of

the year. The music has been evolving from local roots into various kinds of world music: look

out for Mungal Patasar and Pantar, Ella Andall, David Rudder, Orange Sky, 12theband, jointpop,

3canal, H20 Phlo and recordings by the late André Tanker.

Theatre Localised farce and musicals dominate the scene but there are occasional productions of classic

Caribbean plays, experimental theatre, and intimate solo shows and dramas.

Visual arts Distinguished work is displayed at the National Museum and city art galleries, and a significant

art market has developed. Key names include sculptors Ralph and the late Vera Baney, Edward

Bowen, LeRoy Clarke, Chris Cozier, Jackie Hinkson, Dermot Louison, Shastri Maharaj, Wendy

Nanan, Lisa O’Connor, Irénée Shaw, Peter Sheppard and Sundiata. Work by earlier generations

is highly valued (MP Alladin, Sybil Atteck, Pat Bishop, Isaiah Boodhoo, Jean-Michel Cazabon,

Carlisle Chang, Boscoe Holder, Noel Vaucrosson).

Daily papers carry information on current performances and

exhibitionsM

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Opposite page Pantar, Gary Hector from the band jointpop

This page H2O Phlo


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70 Trinidad

We are shoppers

No, a ceramic coconut made in China is

probably not how you want to remember

your trip. Fair enough. But there are excep-

tionally talented local craftsmen in Trini-

dad working in leather, clay, fabric, cop-

per and other raw materials like seeds, shells

and gourds. And you can find just about anything

mainstream, from clothes, houseware and aroma-

therapy candles to fancy local foods, fashion and

jewellery.

Considering the size of Trinidad (it’s less

of a problem in Tobago), there’s an almost

alarming number of shopping malls. In

downtown Port of Spain, Frederick Street

is a hectic shopping stretch which keeps

a finger on the pulse of our culture

even as older buildings and shops

are replaced by bigger and trendier

ones.

Downtown Non-mall shopping is focused on a few key streets in each urban

centre: Frederick and Charlotte Streets (Port of Spain); High Street (San Fernan-

do); Main Street (Chaguanas); Milford Road Esplanade and the Market at Car-

rington Street in Scarborough, Tobago.

OnlineThough relatively new, online shopping is gaining traction. So far, food, shoes, clothing, lingerie

and accessories are the main items that can be bought from local sites.

Mar

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Artisan chocolates Some of the world’s best cocoa comes from Trinidad, but it usually goes straight out of the

country for others to do wonderful things with. Now, chocolatiers are offering exquisite hand-

made truffles and other rich delights to local buyers.

Shopping mallsThere are five major shopping malls in Trinidad: The Falls at West Mall (Westmoorings)

and Long Circular Mall (St James) in the western suburbs of Port of Spain; Trincity Mall

near Piarco airport; Grand Bazaar (Valsayn); and Gulf City (San Fernando). They house

branches of popular downtown stores, but also high-end stores you won’t find anywhere

else. There are several smaller shopping plazas and mini-malls as well (e.g. Valsayn and

Ellerslie Plazas, and Excellent City Centre in the heart of Port of Spain).

Unexpected gifts

Handmade and decorated chocolates by Cocobel www.cocobel.com

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India? Here?Travelling trade fairs from India have become a regular event. Don’t

be surprised to find some great buys in Indian apparel, textiles,

jewellery, ornaments, even furniture. There’s something for every

budget, and the savings start with not having to buy an actual ticket

to India.

Find Art On both islands you’ll find galleries selling the work of some of the

country’s top artists and photographers, and there are often several

exhibitions in progress. Expect a broad range in terms of quality and

price, but the best work is world-class.

Wild Ride at the Savannah; sculpture,bronze and nautilus shell by Jasmine Thomas Girvan

72 Trinidad


Rachel Ross Jewellery on facebook

www.janicederrick.com

www.jasminethomasgirvan.com

74 Trinidad

Be JewelledJewellery for any budget, preference or

occasion. From the slightly expected shell-

and-seed type of handicraft, to haute cou-

ture gold- and silversmith designs. And you

can’t discover Trinidad & Tobago without

running into insanely low-priced fashion

jewellery. Local chain Wonderful World is

an extravaganza of affordable and trendy

accessories. Another well-kept secret:

Gemstones in Maraval and West Mall.

Surprise! Not Just Soca!Apart from pan, calypso and soca, Trini-

dad & Tobago is a music-lover’s dream.

Jazz, Indian, gospel, parang (a Spanish-fla-

voured music popular around Christmas),

fusion, chutney. We have a long, long-

standing love affair with rock (from mild-

alternative to semi-hardcore). And we have

some excellent choirs with classical and

contemporary repertoires. Most success-

ful performers have produced their own

albums. Have a listen to some other very

Trinidadian kinds of music from names like

Mungal Patasar and Pantar, 3 Canal, Theron

Shaw, jointpop, Ataklan, the Marionettes

Chorale and the Lydian Singers.

18 carat gold long leaf-cell chain by Janice Derrick

We are food lovers

Pretty much everything we do revolves around food. Out for drinks? Yes but we’ll stop

for doubles/roti/gyros after. It’s Christmas! Midnight mass, love to your fellow man, wrap

presents. The reward: pastelles, ham, ponche de crème, black cake. Beach! Where’s the shark

and bake? Cricket! Who’s bringing the pelau?

Trinidad & Tobago can be complicated. But our united, delighted appreciation of food

is our society at its simplest and most artless. Where there be food, there we go.

Restaurants are plentiful, from the internationally noted to the dives known

only to those living nearby. Fine dining restaurants with celebrity chefs are

often located in converted traditional city houses, drawing ambience from

memories of old Port of Spain. If you like Chinese food, you’ve come to the

right place, oddly enough. The number of Chinese restaurants, mostly Can-

tonese, is in insane disproportion to the actual Chinese population. Not that

we’re complaining. And there are some divine Indian, Thai, Italian, and Creole

restaurants too.

But Trinidad is, above all, the land of

street food. There are areas famous for

Opposite page Clockwise from top: as-sorted hot peppers; swizzle sticks; all spice; pumpkin; aluminium graters.

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www.trinichow.com

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78 Trinidad

this, like the Western Main Road in St James, or the southeast

corner of the Queen’s Park Savannah.

In Tobago, Store Bay stands in

the winner’s circle for having

so much good food in one

place.

Here’s the challenge: eat

your way across the sheds,

tents, carts, mobile units,

stalls and basketed bicycles

of this country and then go

out into the world and try to match

the experience.

Emily Narayans

ingh


Two great sites for descriptions,

definitions and desires:

www.Trinichow.com,

www.CaribbeanPot.com.

P.S. About green seasoning ... Wonder

what that flavour is that seems to make its

way into all local dishes? Referred to sim-

ply as “green seasoning”, it’s a minced mix

of chives, thyme, onions, garlic and celery.

Many home and professional cooks keep

their special variations fiercely guarded.

80 Trinidad

Mar

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Sno-coneShaved ice drenched in a variety of

syrups and, for a little extra decadence,

condensed milk


Street foodBarbecue: in our version,

the sauce is thinner and

more heavily seasoned than,

say, its sweet and tangy

American cousin

Chow: fruit, especially

young ones, pickled in

vinegar, salt and pepper. Add

as much hot pepper as you

can stand. Favourites include

mango, pineapple, West

Indian plums

Coconut water: straight

from the nut

Corn: boiled, roasted or in

soup

Curried crab and dump-

lings: a Tobago speciality,

in which the steamed flour

dumpling offsets the dense

curry of the crab

Doubles: a pair of fried

Indian flatbread pieces with a

curried chickpea filling

Gyros: the traditional Arabic

wrap of grilled meat and

unleavened bread has been

gaining popularity outside

clubs, bars and parties

Oyster cocktails: fresh oys-

ters served in a tomato-based

sauce, sold by the glass

Roti: soft Indian flatbread

filled with meat or vege-

tables and wrapped over

itself to keep everything in

place

Shark and bake: the bake

is the mellow, fried round

of dough that houses the

sandwich. Add deep-fried

slices of shark or other fish.

Fresh vegetables, pineapple,

and an array of condiments

complete it

Souse: the brined feet of

pigs or chickens served with

lots of hot pepper

82 Trinidad

For the business travellerTrinidad offers accommodation options for business travellers of all kinds –

whether your needs are basic or fairly complicated. There are local as well

as international hotel brands in and around the capital and industrial centres.

In a place with a growing reputation for its conference-hosting facilities, our

business hotels can provide the services needed to make a professional visit

efficient.

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Some popular choices among business travellers:

Port of SpainHyatt Regency Trinidad on the city waterfront

Hilton Trinidad & Conference Centre

overlooking the Savannah

Courtyard by Marriott less than

ten minutes from downtown Port of Spain

Kapok Hotel in Maraval

Near the airportHoliday Inn Express Hotel and Suites

San FernandoRoyal Hotel

Tradewinds Hotel

86 Trinidad

Conference facilitiesThe idea of Port of Spain being the next great conference city is not

far-fetched.

One promising new area is our ability to facilitate conferences, semi-

nars, tradeshows, conventions and any other conceivable type of meeting.

We have well-equipped spaces for all sizes of gatherings, good infrastruc-

tural support services (technical and otherwise), and professional organisers

to pull everything together.

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For the vacationerMany good reasons to visit Trinidad, many different kinds

of places to stay. Charming boutique inns, no-frills self-

catering and nature retreats. Some of the hotels listed

in the business travel section cater to those with a little

luxury in mind.

Guesthouses and B&BsThe Allamanda (Woodbrook) and Par-May-La’s

(Newtown) are handy for Port of Spain.

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For the eco-enthusiastBirds, butterflies, turtles – yes, we have them

all. And gorgeous forests and hiking trails.

Many of our visitors who keep coming back

are nature lovers and each encounter with

the landscape is special.

There are some wonderful nature-orient-

ed havens in remote parts of Trinidad – some

on the beach, some in the mountains.

Bargain huntingDiscounted rates and packages are often available.

The peak visitor season is December-April

(expect higher rates); prices also increase

around Carnival time.

Last-minute rooms are often available, but

it’s best to book ahead for any international

events and conferences, and for traditionally

popular periods like Easter, Carnival, Christmas

and New Year.

Visit www.gotrinidadandtobago.com

for current information.

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HYATT name, design and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2013 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.

HYATT REGENCY TRINIDAD1 Wrghtson Road, Port of Spain868 623 2222


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Welcome to Tobago

Here are two things to remember:

Tobago is small

Auchenskeoch, in the south of the island, is pronounced or-kin-skew.

While Tobago is certainly a more postcard Caribbean island than Trinidad, as we so often point

out, it really isn’t the most touristy place you can find. It can be surprisingly real. In its smallness,

everything is a shorter distance than it appears on the map. If you get off the coastal roads

and drive through the densely forested middle (where “forest” includes rainforest, bamboo,

deciduous and evergreens), the hills are low and close. Intimate. These narrow ribbons of road

wrap tightly around bends. Drive slowly: depending on the season, the way may be treacherous

with over-ripe mangoes spilling wantonly into the street. The dogs and chickens are all suicidal.

Tobago is very hilly, but gently so.

Auchenskeoch and its unlikely pronunciation is a good reminder that Tobago is full of surprises.

We’re eating out … and in

Tobago’s restaurant scene might not be as diverse as Trinidad’s but there’s a fair range

from the fine to the fast. It’s a great island for an outdoor lifestyle and that includes eating.

Establishments great and small offer al fresco dining and gorgeous views. Whether your table

is on a veranda overlooking the north coast or at the poolside of a luxury hotel, the ambiance

can be as good as the food. The Magdalena Grand does wonderful buffet dinners – a different

theme every night.

Tobago’s own specialities are fresh seafood, including lobster and crab: its signature dish

is curried crab and dumplings. The stalls at Store Bay are famous for this must-taste meal.

96 Tobago

If you’re in a position to do some self-catering, avail yourself of the fresh seafood and vege-

tables, homemade sauces, even yoghurt and cheese (look for the Orange Hill brand). Penny

Savers is a chain of small supermarkets in Canaan (Milford Road), Scarborough (Wilson Road)

and Carnbee village. If you need a few not-so-basic extras, Morshead Gourmet Foods at

Mt Pleasant, just off the Shirvan Road, carries some very fancy imports and exotic ingredients.

EtceteraFor other things you might need to pick up:Gulf City Mall (Lowlands), on the north side of the Claude Noel Highway opposite Tobago

Plantations estate, is the island’s main shopping centre. It also has Tobago’s only cineplex.

Scarborough Mall, in lower Scarborough, is a plaza with the essentials: banks, post office,

library, pharmacies, bus station, etc. The Scarborough Market, next to the Mall, is the place for

fish, fruit, vegetables and local foods, especially on Friday and Saturday mornings.

Save Our Sea Turtles (SOS) is a community-based organisation

that’s been working since 2000 to understand, monitor and protect

the vulnerable leatherbacks, hawksbills and green turtles that come to

shore in the Courland area of Tobago.

This year, instead of just telling you

how great turtles are, Discover asked

SOS member, Giancarlo Lalsingh, to

tell us more about what the guardians

of the turtles are thinking.

Why is keeping turtles

safe so important?

Sea turtles are incredible

creatures that have survived for

millions of years. They play an

integral part in the marine and

coastal environment they

inhabit. They provide many

beneficial ecological services,

and as a natural living resource,

contribute to building sustain-

able communities, not only in

Trinidad and Tobago but around

the world.

We are saving the turtles

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What makes someone stalk beaches for hours on end, losing sleep and

weight, to check on them?

In many respects, our lives are not that different from the long journey that sea turtles undertake.

From a tiny hatchling with a 1-in-1,000 chance of survival to a giant of the seas, travelling thousands

of miles through the ocean and finally returning after many decades to the beaches of their birth to

lay their eggs and begin the process all over again ... It would be a shame, after all that effort, to have

their eggs poached or worse, be killed. This is something we can all relate to.

What’s the hardest part?

Most people in T&T, even if they’ve never seen a turtle, know about them and the threats that

they face. Yet we still continue to engage in damaging activities that are leading these magnifi-

cent creatures down the path toward extinction.

Do more people want to help now? Why?

People feel a deep connection to sea turtles and are

helping in many different ways. Either through volun-

teering for beach patrols, helping with education and

awareness, or simply by supporting those who do.

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This page Trinidad & Tobago has the third largest leatherback turtle nesting population. Matura and Grand Riviere, are the most important landing sites in Trinidad – they’re on the northeast coast. In Tobago, Turtle Beach on the southwest coast is the main spot.Previous page SOS’s Giancarlo Lalsingh says the most beautiful part of what he does is seeing the hatchlings head off into the sea. “Those are the fruits of many sleepless nights on the beach,” he says.


We’re sunning, surfing, swimming …

As clichéd as it sounds, yes, this tiny island is full of hidden gems. But we don’t all treasure

the same things. Drive. Drive. Drive. Take it all in. It’s not impossible to plan an itinerary in

Tobago (and you should try it that way at least once), but sometimes you find the best things on

the way to somewhere else.

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Crown Point & the Caribbean coast

Back Bay: secluded small bay between Mt Irvine and Grafton, reached via a cliffside trail. Good

for body surfing, tanning and snorkelling. It’s isolated, so go in a group

Bloody Bay: nothing at all like its unfortunate name, this is one of Tobago’s most peaceful and

unspoilt beaches. There are changing rooms, picnic tables, bathroom facilities and lifeguards

on duty

Buccoo: home of the Easter time goat and crab racing. There’s a small bar on site

Canoe Bay: calm, shallow waters, great for kids and less enthusiastic swimmers. Just a five-

minute drive down a dirt road off the Milford Road. It’s rarely crowded, and the excellent facilities

include a bar and beachfront cabanas; there is a small entrance fee

Castara: a quiet beach in a friendly west-coast fishing village. Watch the fishermen hauling in their

nets, or buy bread baked in old-fashioned dirt ovens. Facilities include a restaurant, stores and craft

stalls, and there’s accommodation nearby

Englishman’s Bay: with its distinctive blue-green-gold water surrounded by rich forest, there

should be a colour named after this bay. One of Tobago’s popularly photographed beaches.

Great snorkelling


Great Courland Bay (also called Turtle Beach): this long, sandy stretch is a nesting place for

leatherback turtles during the season (March-August), as is Stonehaven Bay next door

King Peter’s Bay: quiet and calm, with dark sand. Good snorkelling

Mt Irvine: a pair of beaches with excellent facilities, snorkelling and surfing. The hotel side

offers refreshments and beach amenities (a bar, restaurant, lifeguards, watersports and tour

operations). Equipment for various watersports can be hired on site

Parlatuvier: fishing village with a tranquil beach and a few snackettes

Pigeon Point: near Crown Point and close to Buccoo Reef and the Nylon Pool, this is prob-

ably Tobago’s most popular and most photographed beach. There’s an entrance fee at the

end of the road into the Heritage Park. Food and drink, amenities and bathroom facilities,

watersports equipment, glass-bottom boat trips to Buccoo Reef and Nylon Pool

Stonehaven Bay: a magnificent, rugged dark-sand beach. The area is home to some of

Tobago’s more luxurious resorts and villas

Store Bay: extremely popular beach with some of the best food in Tobago. The swimming

is good and the craft and souvenirs are better than you’d usually expect from beach stalls.

Glass-bottom boat tours leave twice a day for Buccoo Reef and the Nylon Pool. Can get a bit

crowded

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Lifeguards are typically on duty 9am-5pm or 10am-6pm, but not at all beaches. Red flags indicate unsafe bathing areas. Sun-screen and insect repellent are essential – tropical sun can quickly give a bad burn, even through cloud, and mosquito-born illnesses like dengue fever are still health threats.

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The Atlantic (windward) coast

Bacolet: close to Scarborough, this dark-sand beach is popular with surfers

Bellevue: accessed from the Belle Garden Bay Road junction, the waters here are calm by

windward-side standards

Granby Point: a windswept, dark-sand beach with the remains of a colonial fort

King’s Bay: a long, picturesque stretch with calm water and good facilities, including showers,

lifeguards and shaded cabanas. A good place to buy fresh fish, sometimes just hauled in

Little Rockly Bay: a scenic stretch running along the old coast road south of Scarborough,

with Atlantic Ocean views. Accommodation, restaurants and hangouts in the area

Man-o’-War Bay: in Charlotteville, at the northern tip of Tobago, you’ll find cottages, guest-

houses and eateries. The village is the main venue for the Fishermen’s Festival in June

Pirate’s Bay: a stunning beach with crystal-clear water and a fabulous view; accessed via dirt

track from the end of the Charlotteville seafront, or by sea

Richmond Beach: a quiet, pretty beach near a river mouth

Speyside & Blue Waters/Batteaux Bay: sandy beaches within swimming distance of the reef.

Speyside and Blue Waters offer tranquillity and great snorkelling. Glass-bottom boat trips to Angel

Reef, Goat Island and Little Tobago start here. Speyside itself, Tobago’s dive capital, has a tourist

office, watersports facilities, varied accommodation, and restaurants

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Forts: the British built a series of defensive forts around the coast in the

late 18th century, terrified (with good reason) that they were going to be

attacked by the French. By far the most important is Fort King George,

named after George III, standing high above Scarborough and com-

manding the town and the sea approaches. Several original buildings

and cannon survive. The Fort now houses the Tobago Museum (early

Amerindian and colonial collections), and provides a spectacular view

of the windward coast and the Atlantic. Fort Milford (1777) at Crown

Point is a good place to watch the sun go down, Fort Bennett (1778)

surveys part of the Caribbean coast near Mt Irvine, and Fort James

commands the headland at Plymouth, overlooking Courland Bay.

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We are more than just beaches

You’ve finally seen more gorgeous magical beaches than you thought could exist in one

tiny space. No? Even so, Tobago has more to recommend it than the soothing sand, the

luxurious water, the plentiful racing goats. Sometimes, something delightful (like a fruit punch

slushy) or fascinating (like a bizarre grave) is just around the corner. Don’t be surprised if you find

your favourite experience somewhere unexpected. Here are some of our favourites.

Adventure Farm & Nature Reserve: just beyond Plymouth – tropical fruit,

birdlife, a butterfly garden, shelter for endangered species

Arnos Vale: the 1857 waterwheel that once powered the mill at the old Arnos

Vale sugar estate is still there; so is an old Amerindian site, and the remains of

a slave village

Botanical Gardens: sloping grounds with majestic trees, a quiet escape from

the bustle of Scarborough among brilliant flamboyants, silk cotton trees and

royal palms

Buccoo Reef/Bon Accord Lagoon is the island’s first Ramsar Site (i.e. rec-

ognised as a wetland of international importance); the system includes the

inshore coral reefs and the Bon Accord mangrove swamps and seagrass beds,

where the rare green sea turtle is sometimes sighted

Charlotteville is peaceful and beautiful, snug on the shore of Tobago’s finest

natural harbour, Man-o’-War Bay. Like Speyside, it is an excellent dive centre

with its own dive shops. The beach is great for swimming, with beach facilities

at the southern end

Cuffie River Nature Retreat: hidden away inland and dedicated to nature

and tranquillity. Great bird watching, nature tours, and an easily accessible river

Flagstaff Hill: almost the northernmost tip of Tobago, reached via an un-

paved road from the crest of the hill before descending into Charlotteville.

It was the site of an American military lookout and radio tower during World

War II. The view is panoramic, encompassing St Giles Islands and the village of

Charlotteville

106 Tobago

Grafton Caledonia Wildlife Sanctuary: a former cocoa estate which evolved into a bird

sanctuary after 1963’s Hurricane Flora; the birds are fed at the Copra House around 4pm

Kimme Museum, Bethel: the workshop and gallery of the late German sculptor Luise Kimme,

best known for her larger-than-life Tobago dancers and folklore characters hand-carved from

wood. Kimme died in 2013 and a large part of the collection was lent to the Duesseldorf Kuns-

takademie. Call the gallery for up-to-date information (639-0257)

King’s Bay was once a large Carib settlement. The water is

calm and warm, and there are beach facilities. King’s

Bay Waterfall can be reached via a trail on the oppo-

site side of the road; the falls may be dry if there’s

been little rain

Main Ridge & Forest Reserve: the Main Ridge

runs down two-thirds of the island like a spine.

Designated in 1776, it is the western hemi-

sphere’s oldest protected reserve – pro-

tected specifically for reasons of con-

servation. A good scenic road runs

across the Ridge from Bloody Bay

to Roxborough, giving access to forest

trails like Gilpin Trace, an easy 45-minute walk to

a small waterfall

Richmond Great House: this quiet and charm-

ing Great House (1776) has been attractively re-

stored to function as a guesthouse/hotel and

restaurant. It houses an extensive collection of

African art

Speyside is Tobago’s diving centre, and the

departure point for Little Tobago, the island

bird sanctuary off the northeast coast. Stop

and enjoy the magnificent view from the

Speyside Lookout just before the descent into

the town. Tourist office, good dive shops and waters-

ports operators

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Waterfalls: experienced guides will

take you to the three-tiered Argyle

Falls near Roxborough (there is an

entrance fee). Rainbow Waterfall is

another beautiful spot

Right Laughing gulls are everywhere in TobagoBelow Argyle Falls, Tobago’s highest waterfall,

cascades down a series of steps. There are refreshing pools along the hike to the falls Opposite page Tobago-based artist Luise

Kimme’s larger-than-life dancers

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108 Tobago

We are divers

Take a deep breath, breathe out slowly, look around. Fish everywhere: silver, black, yel-

low, blue. Big ones, tiny ones, listen to the crackling of the rock shrimp. Turtle! Look, a

hawksbill! So majestic! Check under that rock, it’s a nurse shark. Amazing! Wait, there’s a lobster,

its massive feelers waving in the current. Is that a stingray covering itself with sand? It’s huge!

There’s another one. Turtle! This one is a green turtle, you can tell from the mouth.

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Diving in Tobago is a sensory trip. There is

so much going on, vistas of beautiful fish and

coral, usually excellent visibility; manta, eagle

and sting rays are perennial attractions, as well

as hammerhead, nurse and black-tipped

reef sharks; hawksbill, green and leather-

back turtles; moray eels; barracuda; dol-

phin; and pelagic species such as marlin. With

really friendly and helpful dive operators like

Marcus from Extra Divers in Crown Point

([email protected]), you are sure to enjoy

your dives.

There is good diving to be had everywhere

around the coasts, with over 60 established

dive sites (mainly around the northern tip)

— shallow reef dives, deep diving, wreck div-

ing, drift diving. Most dive operators offer in-

troductory courses; there is a decompression

chamber at Roxborough Medical Facility,

20 minutes’ drive from Speyside.

Licensed operators offer PADI or NAUI

dive training for the inexperienced, as well

as equipment rental and sale for those who

don’t have their own. Most dives are drift

dives and the current can be fairly strong but

your dive operator will know the best sites

for the conditions and the divers’ relative

experience. The best part is that there is usu-

ally a maximum of ten people on any dive,

including the dive-master, which makes for a

much more personal experience.

We strongly recommend using a PADI

(Professional Association of Diving In-

structors) registered guide.


Healing with horsesThis is a weekly programe that brings differently-abled Tobagonian children together with horses. The kids can also try arts and crafts, music, dance, yoga, nature walks, gardening and sport. All of these are highly successful forms of therapy – and they’re fun. This is a non-profit organisation run by Veronika LaFortune and her husband along with many volunteers. To volunteer time or to contribute in cash or kind, write to [email protected]

The same team is responsible for Being with Horses. Here, visitors to Tobago can enjoy swim-ride sessions, trail rides and picnic rides. Call as much in advance as possible as they’re almost always fully booked.

www.healing-with-horses.com

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Find out about ...

Rockly Bay, Scarborough’s natural harbour, looks peaceful enough now, but in 1677 it was

the scene of two horrendous naval battles between fleets of French and Dutch warships, and

the sea bed is supposedly strewn with wrecks and remnants. The first serious excavations have

begun and may well produce some interesting discoveries in the coming months.

Plymouth, on the Caribbean coast, has a striking modernist sculpture, the Courland Monu-

ment (1976), which commemorates 17th-century settlers from Courland, now part of Latvia.

How on earth did proto-Latvians end up settling by beautiful Courland Bay in far-off Tobago?

It’s a long and intriguing story.

Plymouth is also the site of the Mystery Tombstone, a small grave whose inscription is

supposed to be so mysterious that no one can figure out what it means. It is the resting place of

one Betty Stivens: “She was a mother without knowing it, and a wife without letting her husband

know it, except by her kind indulgences to

him ...”

Tobago’s culture and folklore are

quite different from Trinidad’s, and well

worth discovering. Various traditions are

celebrated at the Tobago Heritage Festival

in July: the old-time wedding in Moriah, for

example, the groom sporting his stove-

pipe hat and tailcoat, and the bride with

her trousseau on her head as the wedding

party processes slowly to church and on

to the reception with the distinctive To-

bago three-step “brush back”.

Tambrin music is quintessential

Tobago, driven by three shallow goat-

skin tambrin drums (high-pitched cutter,

roller, and boom bass), fiddle, and steel

Not everything is as it seems. Sometimes there’s a lot more story; sometimes it’s just

utterly unexpected.

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triangle. The Tobago reel and jig are indigenous dances from Pembroke, with roots in West

African rituals invoking the ancestors, and accompanied by tambrin music. Speech bands are

a Tobago Carnival tradition, featuring a cast of costumed characters speechifying in rhyme.

Harvest festivals are held in the villages, a church service followed by a lavish cook-up.

Right Traditional dirt oven still in use

Previous page The curiously inscribed tombstone of Betty

Stivens has been offering up its riddle

since 1763

114 Tobago

REAL ESTATE SALES ... VILLA RENTALS ... PROPERTY MANAGEMENT

Corner Milford & Golden Grove Roads, Canaan, Tobago, W.I.

Tel.: (868) 639-5263 / 639-9663 Fax.: (868) 639-2258

Website: www.realestatetobago.comEmail: [email protected]

FOR BEAUTIFUL PROPERTIESTHROUGHOUT TOBAGO

Moving to Tobago

There are some holidays you

never want to end. Visitors to

Tobago often find a way to make

that happen: they move there. Quiet,

gorgeous Tobago isn’t just a good

idea as a holiday home or a place to

retire. You might find the pace and

space simply suit you.

The full market range is avail-

able in Tobago, from single-family

homes, townhouses and duplexes

to luxury mansion and villas by the

golf course. Just as if you were buying a house anywhere, get a feel for the island. Small as it is,

there’s still variety: beach or mountain, small community or far-flung farm. Get a good agent,

like Abraham Tobago Realty or Caribbean Estates, and start looking.

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Where to stay

Crown Point is the hub of tourist activity,

with restaurants, shopping, beautiful beaches

(Store Bay, Pigeon Point), historical sites and

the airport all in walking distance of most

properties. It also offers the most options:

beach/inland, hotel/apartment, restaurant/

self-catering, upscale/budget, etc.

Scarborough accommodation is less

appealing for vacationers hankering for a

beach, but may suit business travellers with

work to do in town.

Villas: if you’re travelling with a group and

sharing costs, a villa can be a luxurious but

very affordable option. At the high end you

can live like royalty, though the simpler,

cottage-style properties are very congenial

too. Apart from spectacular ocean or moun-

tain views and elegant neo-colonial design,

The southern tip of Tobago is where hotels and resorts are thickest on the ground – per-

fect if you like lots of activity and company. If you prefer to get away from the crowds,

head for the nearby coasts – Mt Irvine, Lowlands, Tobago Plantations. The further north you

go, the more tranquil accommodation tends to get.

116 Tobago

services like airport transfers and

tours are often included. Villas are a

popular choice for wedding ceremo-

nies and wedding parties. Typically, a

villa will supply staff to cook for you,

or you can opt to cater for yourself.

Themed holidays: Tobago is a des-

tination noted for bird watching, div-

ing, and a variety of eco and outdoor

pursuits. Conveniently, these tend to

be grouped in specific areas.

Diving enthusiasts tend to head

straight for the northeast, towards

Speyside and Charlotteville

Golfers like to be near Mt Irvine or

Tobago Plantations in Lowlands

Grafton Beach Road, Black Rock, TobagoTel: (868) 639-0686 • Fax: (868) 639-0057

[email protected]

T H E S E A H O R S E I N NR e s t a u r a n t & B a r

BEACH SIDE DINING AT ITS BEST

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www.MagdalenaGrand.com

Tobago is not your ordinary island, it is an unspoiled island rich with eco-adventure, beaches and superb diving. The island is home to the oldest protected rainforest in the world.

Magdalena Grand has all oceanfront rooms with balconies, golf, tennis, three swimming pools, a Padi dive center, spa services and a choice of restaurants and bars. It is located in the tropical Tobago Plantations Estate, a 750-acre gated community.

Visit the “True Caribbean” in beautiful Tobago.

MaGdalena Grand is TobaGo’s

PreMiuM HoTel

Reservations : 1.868.660.8500 U.K. Local Rate: 0845 004 8276

[email protected]

MAG-13-193 Consumer HalfPgAd - Discover Trinidad & Tobago.indd 1 8/5/13 12:16 PM

STUNNING BEACHFRONT PROPERTIES FOR SALE

Beautiful Homes & Land for saleVacation Villa Rentals

www.abrahamrealty.comEmail: [email protected]

Tel: 868-639-3325

Whether you desire a luxury ocean frontvilla or a small retirement cottage…

or simply wish to spend your vacation inparadise, we’ll find “your place in the sun”

Nature lovers look outside the touristy

southwest, heading instead for inland prop-

erties near the Main Ridge Forest Reserve, or

further up the Caribbean coast

Wedding parties tend to opt for the island’s

upscale villas (see above)

Therapeutic holiday, a break to regroup and

recharge the batteries. Kariwak Village (which

describes itself as a “holistic haven” and

pioneered this sort of vacation in Tobago)

offers yoga, tai-chi, ozone and photon light

therapies etc.

Visit www.gotrinidadandtobago.com and

www.visittobago.gov for current deals.

118 Tobago


Getting married?

There are local wed-

ding planners who

can organise part or all of

your arrangements. Venue,

flowers, decorations, pho-

tographers and entertainers

– they’ve got it covered.

Church? Beach? Under-

water? All-inclusive honey-

moon package, an oceanside

vista, accommodation for a

hundred guests? Villa, hotel

or resort for your honey-

moon? All can be arranged.

Need to do• Establish temporary residency in Trinidad &

Tobago by scheduling any wedding

activities for at least three full days after

your arrival

• Obtain a special marriage licence (US$55) at

the Inland Revenue Department, with proof

of identity (e.g. valid passport) and a valid

return air ticket

• If you are divorced or widowed, bring

evidence of your single status, and show

the relevant divorce decree or death

certificate. Documents which are not in

English must be accompanied by a

notarised English translation

• If you are under 18, get the written consent

of your parent or guardian

• Bring two witnesses to the ceremony,

identified by their passports

• Schedule the ceremony between 6am and 6pm

• You will receive two official marriage certifi-

cates that are accepted in most countries,

but confirm this and check well in advance

for any additional requirements for recogni-

tion in your home country.

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See you soon!


The Villas at Stonehaven & The Pavilion Restaurant

Black Rock • Tobago • West Indies

Tel: 868-639-0361

www.stonehavenvillas.com

Savour your stay, treasure your visit...

*

* Image courtesy Skene Howie

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Port of Spain

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San Fernando

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Tobago

132 Index

AAccommodation 82-93, 115-118

Adventure Farm & Nature Reserve 105

Airbridge 8

Airlines 8

Airports 5

Alice Yard 29

Amerindian Heritage Day 21

Argyle Falls 107

Ariapita Avenue 26

Arima 7, 15, 19, 42

Aripo Caves 51

Arnos Vale 105

Asa Wright Nature

Centre 46

ATM, ABM 6

BBack Bay 100

Bacolet 103

Balandra 56

Banwari Trace 49

Beaches 28, 55-57, 99-103

Bed & breakfast 89

Bellevue Beach 103

Blanchisseuse 55

Blue Waters/Batteaux Bay 103

Bmobile 6

Brian Lara Promenade 46

Buccoo Reef 101, 105

Bus service 8

Bicycles 7

Birds 28, 51, 106

Bloody Bay 100

Bon Accord Lagoon 105

Book festival (NGC Bocas Lit Fest) 41

Botanical Gardens 29, 45, 105

Bovell, George III 64

Buccoo 100, 105

Business 82, 84

Business hotels 82

Butterflies 28

Bzone 6

CCalendar of events 12-23

Calypso 36, 68, 74

Canoe Bay 100

Capitals 10

Carnival 12-14, 28, 31-37, 113

Caroni Bird Sanctuary 52

Car rentals 8

Castara 19, 100

Cathedrals 28

Cedros Bay 57

Cerro del Aripo, El 51

Chacachacare 48

Chaguanas 7-8, 49-50

Chaguaramas 5, 8, 30, 48, 53

Charlotteville 5, 105, 116

Chinese New Year 12

Chow 81

Index


Christmas 23

Climate 10

Columbus Bay 57

Coral reefs 105

Crab racing 100, 15

Cricket 59

Crown Point 100, 115

Cuffie River Nature

Retreat 105

Cuisine (see Food)

Curried crab & dumplings 81, 95

Cycling 58

DDance 66

Decompression chamber 9

Derby 60

Devil’s Woodyard 49

Dimanche Gras 14, 36

Divali 21, 43, 50

Diving 19, 106, 108-110, 116

Domestic flights 8

Doubles 81

Dragon boat racing 58

Driving 6

EEaster weekend 15

Eco-lodges 46, 51, 90

Economy 10

Edith Falls 30, 53

Eid-ul-Fitr 18, 42

Electricity 6

El Tucuche 29, 51

Emancipation Day 19

Emergencies 9

Emperor Valley Zoo 45

Englishman’s Bay 5, 100

Entry requirements 5

Events (see Calendar)

FFashion 66, 70, 74

Ferries 8

Festivals 12-23, 39-43

Film festival 20, 66

Fine dining 76

Fisherman’s Fete 19

Flagstaff Hill 105

Food 76, 81, 95

Football 3, 61

Fort Bennett 104

Fort George 49

Fort King George 104

Fort Milford 104

GGalera Point 50

Game fishing 14, 64

Ganga Dhaara Festival 41

Gasparee Caves 48

Gas stations (see Maps)

Glass-bottom boats 101

Goat racing 15

Golf 60

Grafton Beach 5

134 Index

Grafton Caledonia Wildlife Sanctuary 106

Granby Point 103

Grande Rivière 52, 57, 64

Granville Beach 57

Great Courland Bay 101

Great Fête 18

Great Race 62

Guanapo Gorge 51

Guesthouses 89

Gulf City Lowlands 96

HHall of Justice 46

Hanuman Temple 50

Harvest festivals 113

Hasely Crawford Stadium 58

Hashing 60

Heights of Guanapo 51

Hiking 53, 60, 90

Hockey 60

Holi 40

Holidays (see Calendar and Festivals)

Horse racing 60

Horse riding 60

Hosay 22, 43

Hotels 82-93, 115-118

IIndependence Day 19

Indian Arrival Day 41

JJazz 15, 40

Jean Pierre Complex 58

Jewellery 66, 70, 72-74

J’ouvert 14, 32, 36

KKayaking 55, 57, 60

Kes the Band 32

Kimme Museum 106

King’s Bay 103, 106

King’s Bay Waterfall 106

LLa Brea 51

Labour Day 17

La Divina Pastora 16

Las Cuevas 55

La Vega Garden Centre 50

Liming 26-27

Literature 66

Little Rockly Bay 103

Little Tobago 103, 106

Location 10

Long Circular Mall 6, 71

Lopinot 50

MMagnificent Seven 29, 45

Mail 6

Main Ridge, Tobago 106

Man-o’-War Bay 103

Manzanilla 56

Macqueripe 48

Maps 122-131


Northwest Trinidad 126

Northeast Trinidad 127

Port of Spain 124-125

San Fernando 128-129

Tobago 130-131

Trinidad 122-123

Maracas Bay 6, 55

Maracas Open Water

Classic 20

Maracas Waterfall 54

Marriage licence 119

Mixed martial arts 63

Mas 36

Masquerade 35-36

Matura 52, 53, 56, 98

Mayaro 56

Methanol 10, 51

Mobile phones 6

Motor sports 62

Mount St Benedict 28, 51

Mount Irvine 101

Mountain biking 62

Mud volcanoes 49

Music 27, 36, 40, 42, 68,

74, 113

Mystery Tombstone 112

NNariva 52, 64

National Academy of

Performing Arts 45

National Museum 29, 68

National Stadium 58

Nightclubs 26-27

Northern Range 50-51

Nylon Pool 101

OOropouche 49

Osun River Festival 19

PPan 22

Pan Is Beautiful 22

Panorama 36, 39

Paramin Parang Festival 23

Parang 22-23, 42, 50, 74

Paria Beach 56

Parlatuvier 101

Parties and partying 26

Petrochemicals 51

Petrol stations (see Maps)

Phagwa 14, 40

Phone service 6

Pigeon Point 6, 13, 101, 115

Pirate’s Bay 103

Pitch Lake, The 51

Plymouth 104-105, 112

Point Fortin Borough

Day 15

Point Lisas Industrial

Estate 51

Pointe-à-Pierre 51, 58

Pointe-à-Pierre Wild Fowl

Trust 51

Population 10

Port of Spain 1, 10, 26-30,

45-46, 70-71, 84, 86, 89

Port of Spain Waterfront 1

President’s House 45

QQueen’s Hall 45

Queen’s Park Oval 59

Queen’s Park Savannah 29,

45

Quinam Beach 57

RRamleela 21

Real estate 114

Red House 46

Regatta 13

Republic Day 20

Restaurants 26-27, 76, 115

Richmond Beach 103

Richmond Great House 106

Rockly Bay 112

Roti 76, 81

Roxborough 110

SSafety & security 35

Sailing 5, 12-13, 62

Saline (Sally) Bay 56

Salybia 53, 56

San Fernando 8, 51, 70-71, 84

San Fernando Hill 51

Santa Rosa Festival 42

136 Index

Scarborough 5, 8, 10, 70,

96, 112, 115

Scarlet ibis 52

Scuba diving 108-110

Shopping 28, 96

downtown 70

malls 71

online 70

Spiritual Shouter

Baptists 14, 40

Snorkelling 55, 100-101,

103

Soca 13, 36, 39

Soca Monarch 36, 39

Soccer (see Football)

Speyside 103, 106

Sport 58-64

Steelband/Steelpan 39

Steelpan Music Festival 22

St James 27

Stonehaven Bay 101

Store Bay 5-6,95, 101, 115

Street food 26-27, 76, 81

Surfing 13, 56, 64, 99-101

Swimming 55-57, 64, 99,

101, 103, 105

TTaxes 6

Taxis 5, 7

maxis 7

maxi-taxi routes 7

private taxis 7

route taxis 7

water taxi 8

Telecommunications 6

Television 50

Temple in the sea 52

Tennis 64

Theatre 68

Tobago

accommodation 115-

118

beaches 99-103

environment 97

food 95

Tobago Carnival Regatta 13

Tobago Forest Reserve 106

Tobago Heritage

Festival 18, 113

Tobago Museum 104

Tobago Underwater

Carnival 19

Toco 50, 57

Tour operators 8, 52

Tourism Development

Company (TDC) 9

Trade fairs 50, 72

Traditional mas 36

Trekking 53

Triathlon 16

Trincity Mall 6, 71

TT Post 6

Turtle Beach 98, 101

Turtles 52, 56, 97-98

Tyrico Bay 55

VVessigny Beach 57

Visual arts 68

WWater 6

Waterfalls 48, 51, 54, 56,

60, 107

Waterloo 52

Water sports 48

We Beat Festival 17, 42

Weddings 119

Wi-fi 6

Woodford Square 46

Y Yachts 5

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