PHOTOGRAPHY & TEXT

Shane Strudwick

Enjoy a diverse and unique visual journey through Australia’s great, iconic Murray River andMallee landscape

From the Mountains Steep Banks & River Gums Outback & Mallee Plains, Lakes & MouthGolden Limestone Cliffs

Photography & Text Shane Strudwick

Special thanksJocelyn Linder, Paul Cohrs, Scott Bain, Chris Teague, Duncan MacKenzie,Kerryn Campbell, Peter Dickson, Mr R Lynn, Camp Coorong, WentworthRotary Museum, Parks Victoria, Cobram Barooga Accommodation Group,Native Fish Australia, Greg Smith, Kirsty McGregor, Jen Whitehorn, RobWilson O.A.M., Noel Loughnan, Robinvale Estate, Travel Victoria, New SouthWales Government, South Australian Tourism Commission, Department forEnvironment and Heritage South Australia, Wentworth Shire Council, Berri Barmera Council, River Dock Museum of History - Mannum, Murray River Visitor Information Centres, Murray Darling Basin Authority,www.bird.net.au, Wikipedia, South Australian Murray-Darling Basin - NRMB,Gladys Sumner, Leanne Watmuff, Dale Beaumont, Frank Tucker, Lucy Quintel,Kevin & Sue Pedder, Wayne Cheeseman, Chrystal Goodhand, HeatherEveringham, Noel Dansie, Jock & Liz Robinson, Tom & Sarah Freeman,Graham Clarke & Carolyn Caddy

Murray River & Mallee - Australia’s Great River Landscape : June 2010

Produced by: Discover Murray River : MurrayRiver.com.au

Published by: Discover Murray RiverSmashn Pty Ltd, 1 Edmund Street, Norwood 5067, South AustraliaTelephone: +61 8 8363 6244Email: info@designtrain.com.au

The images in this book are photographed by Shane Strudwick,unless specified, with Canon equipment.Online Gallery: MurrayRiverPhotos.com.au

Many thanks for other image contributions:Duncan MacKenzie and Jocelyn Linder

Front Cover: Cruising pelicans of Big Bend, South Australia

Design: Shane Strudwick – Design Train: DesignTrain.com.auDesigned and typeset in Bodoni, Avenir, Helvetica Condensedand Mallee Wooden

Maps: Discover Murray River

Proof reading: Leanne Fardone

Printing: Hyde Park Press, 4 Deacon Ave, Richmond SA 5034

Text Paper: FSC certified mixed sources, made with elemental chlorine free pulps (ECF)

© Copyright 2010 Shane Strudwick

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any formor by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by anyinformation storage and retrieval system, without the written permission of DiscoverMurray River except where permitted by law. While every effort has been made toensure the accuracy of the content in this book the publisher accepts no liability formistakes or omissions.

ISBN 978-0-9808029-0-0

If we look after theriver, the river will lookafter everything else.

“ “I N D I G E N O U S O W N E R

Aerial of Murray near Dareton, New South Wales

For Melissa, Darcy and Jayden.

All the kilometres and the time spent apart to make this book possible. This is your book as well.

Also, for all the people along the river and in the Mallee who’ve helped make this book possible,and shared their wonderful and generous passion.

Finally, for the river. Traditional owners have protected and managed the river for thousands ofyears, and we all need to protect it for the future.

Please enjoy and respect Australia’s beautiful and mighty Murray River and Mallee.

Creating Lasting Brandswww.DesignTrain.com.auwww.MurrayRiverPhotos.com.au

Supported by:

Photos

PS Oscar W (built 1908) near Wongulla, South Australia

Murray River Map 6-7Welcome to Country 8-9From the author...go with the flow 11-13Foreword 17Murray River Flag 18Millions of Years in the Making 19Australia’s Megafauna 20Ancient Ocean 21The Border Dispute 21One River - One Basin 22-23Proud Aboriginal Culture 24-25Mungo National Park 26-27Murray River Icon Sites 28-29Abundant Wildlife 30-31The River that Creates Life 32-33Ancient Fossilised Limestone Cliffs 34-37Proud Architecture 38-39Bridging the River 40-41Explorers, Bushrangers & Legends 42-43Captain Charles Sturt 44-45Our Pioneering Spirit 46Flood of ‘56 47Paddle steamers & River boats 48-55Classic Aussie Homesteads 56-57Birth of Australia’s Irrigation 58-59Dams, Barrages & Reservoirs 60-61Locks & Weirs 62-63Snowy Mountains Scheme 64-65

Souvenirs of our Past 66-67Meet some Locals 68Images from our Past 69Houseboats on the Murray 70-73Australia’s Wine Garden 74-75World’s Longest River Golf Round 76-77Outback Murray River 78-81Changing Face of Lake Cullulleraine 82-83Australian Pelicans 84-85Great Aussie Pubs 86-87Sheep & Wool 88-89Pioneer Museums 90-91Fun on the River 92-93Australia’s Great Murray Cod 94-95Sign of the Times 96-97Mist & Fog 98-99Murray River Red Gums 100-101Fresh & Local 102-103Yarrum - Murray River Reflection 104-105Murray River at Night 106-107Mallee Trail 110-113Mallee Parks 114Kow Plains & Cowangie 115Mallee Fowl 116Mallee Wildflowers 117Discover Murray River Trail 118-119Murray River Towns 120-169Index 172

TOWN PAGE MAP

Corryong (VIC) 120-121 N6

Albury (NSW) Wodonga (VIC) 122-123 L5

Rutherglen (VIC) 124-125 L5

Corowa (NSW) Wahgunyah (VIC) Howlong (NSW) 126-127 L5

Yarrawonga (VIC) Mulwala (NSW) 128-129 K5

Cobram (VIC) Barooga (NSW) 130-131 K5

Tocumwal (NSW) 132-133 J5

Mathoura (NSW) 134-135 J5

Echuca (VIC) Moama (NSW) 136-137 I5

Barham (NSW) Koondrook (VIC) 138-139 I4

Swan Hill (VIC) 140-141 H4

Robinvale (VIC) Euston (NSW) 142-143 J2

Mildura (VIC) 144-145 F2

Wentworth (NSW) 146-147 F2

Renmark & Paringa (SA) 148-149 D2

Berri (SA) 150-151 D2

Loxton (SA) 152-153 D2

Barmera (SA) 154-155 D2

Waikerie (SA) 156-157 C2

Morgan & Cadell (SA) 158-159 C1

Mannum (SA) 160-161 B3

Murray Bridge (SA) 162-163 B3

Tailem Bend (SA) 164-165 B3

Goolwa & Hindmarsh Island (SA) 166-167 A4

Meningie & Coorong (SA) 168-169 B4

Murray Towns

Contents

Albury

Cobram

Echuca Moama

Mannum

Milang

Morgan

Curlwaa

1950s Murray Valley Coaches brochure

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Discover Murray River acknowledges the traditional ownersof this country, their history extends over 40,000 years.

We ask that you please respect the living cultures, communities, land, river and bio-diversity of our precious eco-system and landscape.

We hope you love and appreciate your Murray River and Mallee experienceas much as we do. Happy and safe travelling.

Painting from Camp CoorongPainting from Camp Coorong

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Dear VisitorWunna Bunna Bidja

My name is Graham Clarke and I’m a traditional Paakantyi Aboriginal, and in mylanguage that means, “Welcome to my land, my home, my place and my camp”.When you come and see me, folks, that's what I will say to you.

You’ll find me on the borders of Wentworth, New South Wales and Mildura,Victoria, at a place called Mungo National Park, not far from Balranald in OutbackMurray River country.

All around Australia and the Murray River region there are many ancient lands andbeautiful places to see. The stories of these places are more than skin deep. It’smore than a photograph.

I encourage visitors to my region to listen to the silence of the place. Sometimesthey look at me funny. But when you’re on your back under the biggest night skyyou’ve ever seen, with more stars than you even knew were there above you, youstart to get it. I help people to feel what connects me and my people to thiscountry. The spirit of my place, the outback.

Lake Mungo is part of the Willandra Lakes system. Back in 1981, it was listed as aWorld Heritage site and is now documented as one of the oldest places for humanoccupation in the world, dating back to Aboriginal people from around 40,000 yearsago to the present day.

Lots of evidence has been found here of our people camping around the lake on theshores; it was full of water back then, with plenty of tucker for them to eat.

Mungo dried up 15,000 years ago. These days, the shores of this lake are called ‘TheWalls of China’ or ‘lunette’ for its 30 kilometre crescent shape of sand dunes. There’sclear evidence to prove that this is where my people sat around the lake with theircampfires and cooking hearths. With natural erosion of the shoreline, it now standswith gullies and eroding pinnacles of sand and clay in vibrant colours of the earth.

My company is called Harry Nanya Tours and for 18 years people from all over theworld have been joining me on a journey back in time.

So, folks, we’re not too far away, drop in and see us and we’ll give you anunforgettable “Wunna Bunna Bidja”.

Graham Clarke

CountryWelcome TO When you travel to other parts

of our land, make sure you shareour Aboriginal stories, it’ll makeyours even more interesting!

“

“

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The Murray River and Mallee region is oneof Australia’s great national iconic andancient landscapes. Full of unique

environmental wonders, natural beauty, diversecommunities and proud heritage. It’s a 65 million yearold story that holds much of Australia’s soul and identity.

The Murray is beautiful with its golden limestone cliffs,rich ochre mallee, endless mountain ranges of green,golden orange orchards, manicured vineyards,magnificent old river gums, national parks, quietbillabongs, towering forests and some of the biggestblue skies in the world. The river cuts through south-eastern Australia making a 2756km journey through 5 wonderful landscapes. Mountains, outback, ocean.

The communities have a cosmopolitan feel and genuinenature, and their own unique story. Fine restaurants,diverse accommodation, great pubs, cafés and winelovers playground not found anywhere else in the world.

The region also offers uniqe adventure, cruises,canoeing, sports, amazing houseboat experiences,wonderful wildlife, wildflowers, secret fishing spots and Murray Cod, kangaroos, mallee fowl, goannas and teeming birdlife.

Murray River & Mallee - Australia’s Great RiverLandscape is a collection of photographs and storiesaimed to capture the essence of this beautiful part ofour nation’s story. It is my tribute to the spectacular anddiverse beauty of the region. After spending many yearstravelling the region, I began to see the river as a richexperience and tapestry of stunning landscapes,genuine heritage, wonderful people. One continuousthread of life and stories without borders.

This book aims to show you a previously undiscoveredbeauty of the Murray not seen by many. A big pictureview of a national river and system. I hope you connectto the special treasures of the Murray River and Malleeregion and gain a new appreciation of Australia’s greatriver icon in the same way I have.

I’ve spent more than 6 years photographing the region,connecting to the people, their stories and the magic ofthe river and mallee. Six years working towards craftingthis book for you to enjoy. Finding the stories, threadingthe ends to expand the rich tapestry and appreciation ofour great river.

For thousands of people words can’t describe an affinityand bond they have with the Murray River. It is thefoundation for Australia’s story, that’s rich in heritage,tradition and adventure. In the time I’ve beenphotographing and discovering the secrets of the riverI’ve seen firsthand the direct impact of the ‘100 yeardrought’. My journey started when I began hearingstories of no water in the river.

It was a truly gut retching experience seeing our greatriver in decay. Checking all the reservoirs in the systemand seeing the near empty Hume brought pain to myheart. The magnitude of the problem revealed itself. In little over 120 years, since European arrival, politicalcontrol of the river has been discected and pulled apart.This is a precious eco-system and not a infinite resource.

The river is sick and as a country we need to fullygrasp the fact that it is one river system, in oneBasin, in one country that needs urgent attention.

What happens at the top in the Murray-Darling Basinimpacts the end of the river system thousands ofkilometres away. Its not an eco-system that responds topolitical borders, high irrigation demands or economic

output but it does have a limit to mis-management. A precious resource that will collapse unless we all worktogether to value it more than a big channel of water.

During the latter half of the 19th and early 20thcenturies the Murray was a major inland highway

for pastoralists and settlers. From 1853 onwards paddlesteamers and barges carried produce from stations andfarms to river ports. The paddle boats originally openedup the Australia’s interior to farming and the sheepindustry. It was one river system that connectedeveryone.

There were floating shops with goods for the settlers,mail steamers, mission boats and passenger liners, aswell as small fishing boats, ferries, milk launches andboats that helped build the weirs and kept the channelsfree of snags. Ports, trading companies and shipbuildingfacilities were established. Many of the Murray’ssettlements developed around the river trade werebrought by the river boats.

The locks and weirs began construction around the1920s after an agreement in 1903 following a severedrought. They were originally designed to protect theriver trade and then the interests of irrigation.

Settlements began to grow on irrigation. Solder settlerscame through and the land was opened up to moredevelopment. Trains and cars saw the demise of thepaddle steamer as the main form of transportation. The construction of locks and weirs, growing towns,agricultural production and politics began to dissect a once proud freeflowing river. Wenow have a divide between townsand states in the Murray-Darlingsystem.

One river thatflows throughmany lands

The rivers live in flood and drought. Unfortunately as more

expectation and pressure has been placed on Murray-Darling

water, the need for a shared approach is critical for the future.

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The demand on the river’sresources has balloonedtoday. Water trading onpaper has pulled waterfrom different parts of therivers and the real price is

being paid by the environment and community.

A lack of river respect and environmental compassiondriven by competition between governments andindustries is slowly depleting the system.

At the River Murray Agreement of April, 1902 the New South Wales, Victorian and South AustralianGovernments did not fully consider a whole Basinapproach. Three states are now drawing on limitedresources and changing environmental conditions. The whole Murray-Darling Basin was separated into tworegions. A northern and southern Basin. For thousandsof years, monsoonal flood waters from SouthernQueensland and Northern NSW were destined for the Murray-Darling rivers and floodplains.

The natural environment no longer exists as the most valued stakeholder. We’ve changed the riverand the landscape has changed.

Environment water allocations are very low comparedwith irrigation and human consumption. There’s nothingleft for the rare and unique wildlife and the 500 year oldriver red gums on anicent floodplains. Nothing left forthe environment to remain healthy.

As I write this in 2010 the southern part of the Basin hasendured severe drought for 5 continuous years. A lack

of water flow and bushfires have seen serious issues inthe southern section of the Murray-Darling Basin.Governments are forced to stretch resources amongsttheir stakeholders. More competition for less resource.

Due to all the farm storage of water for irrigation in theNorthern part of the Basin, much of the recent 120 yearfloods have not made their way down the Darling Riverand converged with the Murray. Traditionally this waterwould run across floodplains and bring life to the wholesystem. Some water is trickling into the Murray howeverbelow Lock 1 at Blanchetown to the Lower Lakes andCoorong we are on the verge of environmental collapse.

The desperate situation has highlighted the urgent needfor appropriate national management plan and action.One river, one Basin. Political boundaries in all formsdon’t work in the natural environment and the Basin is anatural environment for our flowing rivers. Australiansand the environment need to share. The environmenthas given 100% - its our turn to give. Share theresources fairly, wisely and for tomorrow.

For thousands of years Aboriginals have been thecaretakers of this precious land and river. They had a

perfect balance. Some of the many various tribes ofAboriginals included the Ingalta, Moorundie,Goodwarra, Parrian-kaperre, Tongwillum, Yorta Yorta,Yoorlooarra, Paakantyi, Latje Latje and the Ngarrindjeri.As the caretakers of the land they respected the needfor balance and believe we’re all connected to the river,land and sky. In a very short time, thousands of years ofharmony has been decimated as the river struggles tostay alive, signs of environmental pain run deep.

When you connect to humans you invest emotionalcurrency. This is the same for our environment. Mypassion and affinity for this incredibly beautiful riversystem runs far deeper than the picturesque landscapesand amazing experiences. When you connect to thisriver you connect to something special. It something youwant to preserve and protect. Without a healthy riverwe have no food, economy or future.

The Murray Valley has become one of the world’s largestgardens. Australia’s food bowl. Hundreds of thousands

of people depend daily on the river’s resources andindirectly millions depend on its produce. Livelihoodshave been built on the river’s resource and billions ofdollars have been invested. Everything is at stake forboth humans and the environment. Its time to gain andapply a better sense of balance, sharing and respect forall stakeholders.

The river is a slow and peaceful giant. As it graduallywinds its way towards the Southern Ocean, almost

seemingly still in some places. The slowness of the rivermakes it incredibly relaxing. Water has that theraputiccalming effect. As soon as you sense it; life’s drifts away.A place to unwind and appreciate life. Whether you’re inNew South Wales, Victoria or South Australia...it’s allconnected. The landscapes change yet the thread of theriver connects no matter where you are.

The Murray River is the expression of the spirit ofAustralia. Since the days of the paddle steamers asense of one river has been lost. This books aims toreunite you with our great Australian river. No borders,no boundaries...one large and beautiful story with manycharacters, plots and themes. Time for you to recoversome of the secrets and lost legends that made ourcountry great. The river, is a jewel in Australia’s vastlandscape offering utterly unique geographical delightsand premium natural experiences.

It’s a 65 million year old journey. Beginning as theMurravian Sea which left ancient fossilised cliffs full of allforms of sea life dating back 15-25 million years ago. Asthe sea commenced its retreat, it also left behindenormous quantities of salt. Today that same salt is amajor problem due in part to land clearing, irrigationand improper management. There are salt inceptionschemes along the river to maintain water quality.

While the floor of the Murray-Darling Basin was takingshape, the Great Dividing Range was pushing up aroundthe margins of the Basin to form the eastern boundary.The Cadell Tilt Block between Echuca and Deniliquin isone of the most spectacular examples in the world of afault altering the course of a river. The fault line laidacross the path of the original Murray course as a

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massive block reared up at a faster rate than the rivercould cut through it.

Another geographical movement forced the river to cutcompletely new channels for itself. Another uplift, thePinnaroo Block–profoundly affected the character of theriver by damming it off to form a giant fresh-water lakecalled Lake Bungunnia. The Lake extended north nearRenmark (Chowilla) close to the South Australian-NewSouth Wales border, back as far as Robinvale in Victoria.

Later, the dam was breached releasing the water out tosea. So the river in South Australia became rejuvenated,flowing in a narrow valley through the outback, cuttingdown sharply to form hundreds of kilometres of thebeautiful golden fossilised calcareous cliffs which are aspectacular natural feature of the Murray today.

Just north of the Murray River at Wentworth / Mildurais one of Australia’s first World Heritage sites the

Willandra Lakes and Mungo National Park. This was thesite of human habitation thought to be 40,000 years old.Mungo woman (26,000 years ago), Mungo man(estimated 28,000 years ago). Evidence exists of hugemegafauna roaming the landscapes around 25,000 yearsago with man eating lizards and 3 metre high kangaroosProcoptodon goliah.

Other sites along the Murray River at Kow Swamp nearCohuna, Victoria and near Nildottie in South Australiaconfirmed that man had been associated with theMurray River for thousands of years. In the context oftime, humanity celebrates the ancient Egyptian culturesof 4,000 years yet Australia and the Murray River regionstretches over 40,000 years or more.

There are also more modern day heros since Hovell andHume’s river discovery in 1824 at Albury Wodonga.Many famous Australian’s have explored the region.Captain Charles Sturt named the Murray River in 1830,Burke and Wills, Major Mitchell and John Eyre to namea few have step on our lands and crossed the mightyMurray. Banjo Paterson’s ‘Man from Snowy River’ wasconceived in the Upper Murray and Ned Kelly and Mad‘Dog’ Morgan were regular visitors.

Corowa played a vital role in the negotiations leading up to the creation of the Federation of Australia in 1901.In 1893, at Corowa, a state conference was held whichaccepted the motion that all future Federationconference delegates should be elected by the people,instead of being representatives of the variousgovernments. Federation helped bring about standardswith customs duties for the states as the Murray-Darlingwas a significant goods transporter for the time.

Its been my goal through this book and our websiteto give you a taste of the secrets and stories of the

Murray region. The threaded stories, geology, cultureand people. I hope you get a taste and sense of what I believe is truly one of Australia’s greatest, yetunderstated national landscapes.

The Murray River has one of the world’s largest activepaddle steamer and paddle boat fleets. Not only do youget the experience of traveling on an ancient waterwaybut you can appreciate a working steam engine which isgreat for children and adults in a beautiful riverenvironment. Its an absolute Murray must experience.

Get lost in old river red gum forests at Barmah or trytake some backwater kayak trips around Renmark. Jumpon the Spirit and cruise the Coorong. Take a whitewatertrip near Corryong. What I love about the towns andcities of the Murray are their diversity and character.Luxury houseboats, wine, golf, 5 star retreats, clubs andpubs. Get really connected to our many National Parks.

My personal photographic brief and inspiration forthis book was not defined by how we’d seen the

Murray in the past but to create a new view. Mymotivation was also to showcase the river as one. Findingthe great landscapes, the stories and unique and quirkycharacter of this great Australian region was my goal.

My photographic passion extends over 20 years.Great landscape photographers before me also inspiredme. Thanks to Ken Duncan, Steve Parish, Bill Bachman, Ansell Adams, Andris Apse and Craig Potton haveallowed me through their work to bring the diversity andbeauty of the Murray River and Mallee to you throughmy own message, vision and passion. My background as

a graphic designer has also allowed me to craft anddesigned for you this book to explore and share. We’vealso used a ‘new’ 100 year old font, Mallee Wooden. As you’ll read a font designed with it’s own story. Turn the pages and discover something new. Unfortunately I haven’t been able to showcase every town along theMurray in this book. Its been designed and photographedas a visual feast and journey to experience, for you to goslow and absorb just like the river. Enjoy the contrast,colour and diversity of our great river.

In the words of Dave Cornthwaite a United Kingdomadventurer and one of the few to kayak the entire lengthof the Murray River; and now good mate.

“I have existed within a 2500km zoo, camping in forestsand on river beaches that belong in paradise, paddledwith platypus, snakes, lizards, emu, roos, eagles andparrots. Oh, and seals. I have looked to the sky many a time, expecting to see a chap winking down.

“I have been looked after, and the same treatmentneeds to be applied to the river. I’m no politician oractivist so I’ll keep this short, but the Murray existedbefore borders sliced up this wonderful land, and solong as those borders prevent the river from beingmanaged consistently and fairly a tragic environmentalcatastrophe will slowly become reality. The signs ofdecline are there for all to see; please Australia, forgoodness sake, take notice, and then take action.You have a gem here, look after it.”

I hope you enjoy this Murray River and Mallee book.I’ve loved the experience and journey of getting it toyou. Thank you for supporting my effort and thanks fortaking the time to read it. Visit our websiteMurrayRiver.com.au for more information and theMurray River and Mallee. Please consider ourlandscapes, environment, bio-diversity and make time

to get to the Murray River andMallee and gain some richexperiences for your life.

Regards, Shane Strudwick

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Murray mouthAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Aerial view of the Murray mouth, Lake Alexandrinaand the Coorong, South Australia. Near Goolwa, the Murray mouth plays a vital role in the health of the Murray-Darling Basin system, as the river

completes its journey and joins the Southern Ocean.

One river that flowsthrough many landsOne river that flowsthrough many lands

Aerial view of the Murray mouth, Lake Alexandrinaand the Coorong, South Australia. Near Goolwa, the Murray mouth plays a vital role in the health of the Murray-Darling Basin system, as the river

completes its journey and joins the Southern Ocean.

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Pelicans resting in front of the massive sandstone cliffs at Blanchetown, South Australia

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Water has magnetised us from the early days ofhuman settlement, and the Murray, like many

of our planet’s greatest rivers, now has a storyirrevocably linked to mankind. At first, ironically, it wasman’s apparent detriment to Australia’s main watersystem that attracted me to the Murray. By travellingthe length of the river, I hoped to better understandthe journey it takes, from its source in the hills aboveCowombat Flat to a mouth which is, sadly, occupiedmore often by sediment than water.

Organising this experience from the UK was achallenge before my expedition even began inOctober 2009. Press reports seemed jumbled, politicsmet protest in a fudge of contradiction. I was told onseveral occasions that paddling the Murray wasn’tpossible, because, quite simply, ‘there was no waterleft’. Indeed, I spent weeks deciding whether or notto carry wheels on my kayak should my paddle berendered useless. As I trudged into the Alpinewilderness en route to the Murray’s source, I resolvedto prepare the way for any other blighters who mightwant to follow in my footsteps, whether or not myfeet were to be heavily involved in this venture.

From top to bottom I went, interrogatingunsuspecting locals along the way. I tried to make apoint of redeeming the opinions of those who livedand worked alongside the Murray, for common sensedictates that local knowledge is key to understandinglocal issues. The condition of the Murray-DarlingBasin was an ongoing political hot cake and as Igauged centralised opinion with primary evidence I felt a splitting of instinct and truth. Like the Murray-Murrumbidgee Junction, for much of my journey I

always felt there should be more to what I wasseeing, the back-story had promised so much!

My expedition – and the river – unravelled. My slowpace, partly encouraged by the decrease in waterpassing through the weirs, frustrated not just mygeographical progress, but my scientific and socialquest as well. It wasn’t until I reached South Australiathat I would be able to make judgements andemerge from what had become an oppressingclaustrophobia. I was so involved with the constantpassion emanating from those on the riverbanks that I felt obliged to feel the depth of each argument. Itwas only when a firm grasp of each argument hadbeen developed that I felt able to contribute.

You see, the Murray bears its own community.Whichever State you live in, the problems faced areshared. I have engaged in mirror-image discussions inVictoria, New South Wales and South Australia, andcould have been planted firmly in any one of these 3regions, so similar were the feelings on display. In atime of struggle it is natural to blame, but you willnever accurately judge a neighbour that you don’ttruly know. Just as it is in personal, domestic or eveninternational strife, any political decisions regardingthe Murray’s future can only be made throughmeasured communication.

My passing through was short-lived. I won’t claim tobe an expert on the Murray, but I do know I’ve seenmuch more of the river than many who makedecisions that directly affect it. I have been luckyenough to receive splashings from a platypus. I havecamped on tens of sandbars just metres from koalasand kangaroos and possums and snakes. The Murray

flowed then slowed,yet powered on towards the sea as it should be able to, and as it did I imitated. I have myself been forced to climbover several of the barrages that I once thought were thereason behind the Murray’s increasing shallows, but in a timeof drought I am now sure that the weirs and dams ensure thatwater remains in the river. I’m glad to say that for me, on myjourney, there was water all the way down. I have been luckyenough to appreciate numerous expeditions throughout theworld, but I have a deep soft spot for the Murray.

I hope you really consider the precious and rare experiences of the Murray. Shane’s passion and joy for the river is infectious.He wants to take you on a secret journey into Australia’s iconicriver landscapes and towns. His love for photography, designand the Murray have now combined into this beautiful book.

This great, still mighty river, is one of the world’s mostspectacular. Australia’s south-east hides a jewel, and howwonderful for its journey, past and present, to now be in yourhands and protect its future for others. Big thanks to everyonewho supported me on my journey.

Keep it safe, Dave Cornthwaite

Dave spent nearly 2 and a half months in a kayak experiencingthe Murray River from the Australian Alps to the SouthernOcean. Listening to the stories and soaking up the region aspart of his Great Big Paddle journey. Visit www.thegreatbigpaddle.com for more information on Dave’s Great Big Paddle experiences and the wonderfulAV Foundation he’s supporting.

Dave at Mildura Dockside Marina

Dave’s final day in the Coorong near the mouth

After he skateboarded from Perth toBrisbane, Dave then kayaked 2476km on Australia’s great Murray River.

Dave Cornthwaite

Flags of the Murray RiverThe story of the Murray River flag is one of the oldest in Australia.Before Federation the Australian colonies flew the UnitedKingdom’s Union Jack, however in the 1850s our sense ofnational pride emerged. Varied unofficial flags often featuringthe Southern Cross constellation were designed and flown.

There was the national colonial flag in 1823, the Anti-Transportation League flag in 1852, the Murray-River flag in1853, the next year, 1854 the Eureka flag and the Australianfederation flag from the 1880s to the 1890s.

The Murray River flag first appeared at Goolwa to honour the firstPaddle steamer on the Murray River, the Mary Ann, on the bargeEureka. It is the only flag in the world named in honour of a river.

The Murray River flag, it has been said, has the blue bars that representthe 3 major rivers that run into the Murray – the Murrumbidgee, Lachlan the Darling and the Murray itself. Today the Murray River isrepresented by 2 flags. Both flags are similar except for colourings of the blue bars depicting the 4 major rivers.

The Lower Murray Flag, used predominantly in South Australia, isdistinguished by the use of pale blue bands representing the lighter

coloured water of the lower reaches of the Murray.

The Upper Murray Flag has darker blue bands on its flag,representing the darker waters of the river’s upper

reaches. This design was also the house flag of the Murray River Steam Navigation Co. which

suggests that it is a lineal descendant of the original flag design.

No specimen or fragmentof the original Murray

River Flag is knownto exist.

Bow of Captain Proud, Murray Bridge

Murray River ShippingCompany Flag

Upper Murray flag

Lower Murray flag

Combined Murray flag variant

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Back as far as 65 million years ago the Murray flowedwestwards from the Great Dividing Range. Over timeit has experienced changes such as varying coastlines,climate change, warm shallow seas, huge lakes,earthquakes and alteration of river course.

As recently as 40,000 years ago humans occupied theWillandra Lakes (Mungo National Park) area, north-east of present day Mildura, and just 7,000 years agoyoung lads were fishing along its banks at Nildottie inSouth Australia.

Explorers Hovell and Hume crossed it in a tarpaulin stretchedover a wicker frame on 16 November 1824 and, in

1830, Captain Charles Sturt (named the MurrayRiver) and 7 companions rowed a whaleboat fromthe Murrumbidgee River junction down-stream toLake Alexandrina in South Australia.

Great network of rivers and lifeBeginning as a trickle on the side of Forest Hill in the Australian Alps, the MurrayRiver is eventually joined by other rivers from Victoria, New South Wales andQueensland the Murray extends across the flat, vast, old Riverina Plain.

It cuts its way through limestone country, turns south and ends its journey 2756kmaway near Goolwa in South Australia. Ranked as one of the longest rivers in theworld it is small in relation to water volume discharged. The Amazon dischargesmore water in 1 day than the Murray does in a whole year.

The Murray’s long journey takes you through its 5 great Australian landscapes.from the mountains, steep banks and river red gums, mallee and outback, goldenlimestone cliffs and plains, lakes and mouth.

To Australia’s dry continent the Murray River and Murray-Darling Basin is a valuablelifeblood. It supports about half of Australia’s cereals, fruit, grains, vegetables, wineand milk production, much of the country’s meat, and over 40% of the nation’swool clip. It generates hydro-electric power and water for many towns and cities.

Past droughts and floods have made headlines and river flows fluctuate wildly fromyear to year. Drought in the years 1839, 1850 and 1901 reduced the river to a

A river millions of years in the making...Australia’s ancient river

series of muddy pools; then record floods in 1870 and 1956 spilled out overthe floodplain up to 25km from the river. River regulation has reduced someof the irregularities of the river’s natural flow. Over recent years the region hasendured significant drought conditions. Our greatest river, the environmentand river communities have been suffering.

The natural environment of majestic river red gum forests, extensive wetlandsand aquatic ecosystems are still intact in various localities. National Parks suchas Kosciusko in the east, Burrow-Pine Mountain, Hattah-Kulkyne, Mallee Cliffs,Murray-Sunset, Chowilla Game Reserve, and Murray River are close-by itscourse and the Coorong borders its entrance to the sea.

The river country is a golfer’s paradise where one can drive and putt onrelaxing or testing courses of national and international standard, amidbeautiful scenery and wildlife. Bowlers likewise can appreciate the fine greensand ideal conditions in towns from one end of the river to the other.

Settlement and agriculture have long understood the importance of the riveras the past days of the river-boat trade and the historic posts of Echuca,Morgan and Goolwa show.

The Murray of todayThe river is one of Australia’s great landscapes and provides amultitude of experiences: white-water rafting and canoeing,mountain vistas and bushwalking; para-gliding, fishing, water-skiing, sailing, grape grazing and wine tasting, stunningscenery and relaxing. Together with playing golf, bowls,ballooning and gliding; bird watching and revisiting historyalong its entire length. Finally watch the Murray River enterthe Southern Ocean or walk the long and almost desertedbeaches of the Coorong.

The Murray River today is a classic Australian oasis ofendless naturally beautiful landscapes, amazing food andwine, 5 star houseboats and accommodation, numerous national parksand much, much more. It is a complex story of many parts and stakeholders.There are many hidden secrets and spots in this wonderful river system. Manyexperiences you’ll take home in your heart. A river system that will bring valueto you when you appreciate its ancient life.

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One RiverOne Basin

Australia’s Murray-Darling BasinThe Murray River and the Murray-Darling Basin

are a key natural asset for Australia’s future.

For more information visit www.mdba.gov.au

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The Murray–Darling Basin covers 1,059,000 km² orapproximately 14% of the total area of Australia.The Murray and its tributaries are home to a range

of important aquatic ecosystems and provide essentialwater for agriculture, critical human needs and recreationin the surrounding regions.

The Basin contains 39% of all Australian farms, whichproduce wool, cotton, wheat, sheep, cattle, dairyproduce, rice, oil-seed, wine, fruit and vegetables, forboth domestic and overseas markets.

The Basin contained 65% of Australia’s irrigated land, or1.65 million hectares*. While agricultural production isvital to Australia’s economy, the Basin is much more thansimply a ‘food basket’. It has an important place in thecultural heritage of all Australians and includes manysignificant natural heritage features.

The national capital, Canberra, is located here along withmany of Australia’s major inland urban centres, includingToowoomba, Bendigo, Albury–Wodonga, Tamworth,Dubbo, Orange, Wagga Wagga, Queanbeyan andShepparton. About 10% of Australia’s population – overtwo million people – live in the Basin.

The Basin’s most valuable resource is water. The water inthe Murray–Darling river system comes from a very smallpercentage of the Basin area, mainly along the southernand eastern rim. Almost 86% of the vast catchment areacontributes very little or no regular run-off water to rivers.The rivers have very low gradients over most of theirlengths, which cause them to flow slowly as they meanderacross the vast inland plains.

The three longest rivers in Australia all run through theBasin. The Darling River (2740km), the Murray (2756km)and the Murrumbidgee River (1690km). The Basin hasover 25,000 wetlands, some of them listed internationallyfor their importance to migratory birds that visit the site.

Plants and animalsThe Basin is home to a large number of different plantsand animals, including at least 35 endangered species ofbirds and 16 endangered species of mammals.

Unfortunately, 20 mammal species living in the Basin havealready become extinct since European settlement.

There are at least 46 different species of native fish in theBasin. Over the past 200 years, the numbers anddistribution of native fish in the Basin has significantlyfallen. The disappearance of native fish is a warning thatthe natural ecological functioning of the rivers are at risk.

Many of the native plants and animals in the Basin areprotected in national parks and other reserves whichcomprise about 7% of the Basin’s total area.

Landscapes and climates The diverse landscapes of the Basin have been createdover hundreds of millions of years. The foundation of theBasin’s landscapes is the underlying geology that is datedat over 350 million years old. Between 160 million and 45million years ago, as Australia separated from the ancientsuper-continent Gondwana, land near the eastern edge ofAustralia’s continental plate was pushed upwards to formwhat we call today the Great Dividing Range. This formsthe eastern boundary of the Basin. About 65 million yearsago, the southern part of the Basin began to subside orslightly sink, causing the rivers to flow generally westwardto the mouth at Goolwa, eventually forming the currentsouthern and western boundary of the basin.

A diverse range of climatic zones are found across theBasin. They range from sub-tropical conditions in the farnorth, cool humid eastern uplands, the high alpine countryof the Snowy Mountains, to the temperate southeast, andthe hot, dry semi-arid and arid western plains.

Aboriginals and the BasinThe Basin is home to a diverse range of people. Theapproximately 30 Murray–Darling Basin Aboriginal nationspractice a cultural heritage based on the Murray–DarlingRiver systems. They are amongst the oldest living cultureson earth and in the Basin there are over 10,000 recordedarchaeological sites, including many of national andinternational significance.

The Aboriginal nations of the Basin have a common,interconnected law and kinship system which defines the

people’s identity, relationship to each other and to theircountry. These laws and customs determine custodianshipand enable Aboriginal people to maintain a spiritualrelationship to their land, water and environment. Therelationship between the people and their land and watermeans that what affects the natural environment directlyimpacts on the cultural environment and vice-versa.

AgricultureAgriculture is the dominant economic activity in theMurray–Darling Basin. Further, the Basin is Australia’smost important agricultural region, accounting for 39%*of the nation’s gross value of agricultural production. TheBasin dominates Australian irrigated agriculture.

Agriculture provides the raw materials for most of theBasin’s manufacturing activity as well as many processingcompanies beyond the Basin.

Managing the Murray River systemIn its natural state the Murray River was an unpredictablesource of water. Severe droughts could turn the river intoa chain of salt waterholes. To ensure reliable supply, theriver’s flow has been regulated for many years. Since theHume Dam was completed in 1936, a continuous flow hasbeen maintained throughout the length of the Murray.

The Hume and Dartmouth Dams are vitally important toagricultural production.

The Murray–Darling Basin Authority manages the MurrayRiver system in close cooperation with state authorities toensure reliable water supplies for all users, providingcrucial services, such as:

■ water storage, management and delivery at five majorstorages (Dartmouth and Hume dams, Lake Mulwala,Lake Victoria and Menindee Lakes);

■ operating salinity mitigation schemes that preventsaline water entering the Murray River; and

■ maintaining the river’s operating structures – 13 weirsand locks, and five barrages (barriers constructed nearthe river’s mouth to stop the entry of sea water).

*2005-06

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In the Wentworth and surrouding regions, fossils ofAustralia’s megafauna have been located in a number

of locations. Megafauna is the term used to describehuge fauna from the Pleistocene period (10,000 to 1.8 million years ago).

These huge fauna were marsupials with pouches andwere only found in Australia. Most species becameextinct but some dwarfed in size to produce modernkangaroos, wombats and other marsupials.

In the area, megafauna became extinct approximately25,000 years ago, probably as a result of increased aridity.Prior to that time, the area was lush and green with greaterrainfall. Like the dinosaurs though, we do not know for surewhy they died out.

Fossils have been found at Perry Sandhills, Lake Victoriaand at places along the Darling River and the Anabranch ofthe Darling. They have also been found at Mungo NationalPark and in the Willandra Lakes World Heritage region.

Megafauna models such as Diprotodon, Procoptodon,Genyornis and the Thylacoleo can be found at theWentworth Rotary Museum and have been determinedfrom actual skeletons held at the Melbourne Museum.

Procoptodon(Procoptodon Goliah) (Short faced Kangaroo). Procoptodon means

‘front crushing teach’. An adult Procoptodon was the largest of thegiant kangaroo species. The shortened face increased biting power and

its long fore-limbs would have enabled it to pull down high branches.They are believed to have browsed on trees and shrubs. It stoodapproximately 3 metres tall and weighed about 230 kilograms.

A - 65 millions years

B - 2.5 million years

Huge Megafauna

DiprotodonThylacoleo

GenyornisProcoptodon

Wentworth RotaryMuseum display

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For most of the last 65 million years the westernMurray region and surrounds have been under a

shallow salt sea. Map A shows the extent of theMurravian Sea. The sea retreated 3 million years agoand the fresh waters of the ancestors of the Darling, theMurrumbidgee and Lachlan Rivers flowed to the oceanuntil an uplift of sediments damned the Murray Rivernear Mannum, South Australia, creating a huge inlandfresh water lake.

Lake Bungunnia (30m deep and 33,000km2) lasted from 2.5 million years ago until 700,000 years ago in a periodwhen the region received twice as much rain as today.The extent of Lake Bungunnia is shown in Map B.

After Lake Bungunnia drained, the onset of the modernsemi-arid climate conditions began 400,000 years ago,and almost all the local landform surfaces visible todaydate from this period.

These landforms developed in arid/semi-arid climatesassociated with ice ages especially those of 100,000years ago. Instead of glaciers, ice sheets andmammoths, the region saw climate stages of wet/warmand cold/dry. Between 25,000 and 50,000 years agohigh ground water and full lakes were in the region and a great deal of the fossil megafauna dated fromthis phase.

From 15,000 to 25,000 years ago a cold/dry cyclepersisted and clay dunes (lunettes) formed on theeastern side of dry lakes. The Willandra Lakes WorldHeritage region, which includes Lake Mungo,showcases this change.

The Perry Sandhills is an example of wild blown sandfrom the dry river bed of an ancestral course of theMurray River. Today’s climate is termed the Holocene. In contrast to the earlier climates, it is now warm andthere is decreased rain.

Ancient Ocean The Border DisputeAbrick cairn was erected in 1868 by Charles

Todd, South Australian GovernmentObserver (Astronomer) and Superintendent ofTelegraphs, to mark the position of SouthAustralia’s border with New South Wales.

He set up a temporary observatory and, byastronomical observations and accurate timesignals over the nearby telegraph line betweenAdelaide and Sydney, he calculated the positionof the 141st Meridian of Longitude, theproclaimed boundary between the colonies ofSouth Australia and New South Wales. Anincorrect fixing of the meridian in 1839, confirmedin the 1847-1850 survey from the coast to theMurray River, had caused the border to be up to3.2 kilometres west of the correct position.

Todd and New South Wales Governmentastronomer, George Smalley, met, accepted thedetermination, and had an obelisk (above right)erected beside the Wentworth Road to mark theboundary, later surveyed to the Queenslandborder. Todd’s position is accurate to about 100 metres.

While this allowed the border with New SouthWales to be more accurately determined, it alsoraised the issue of the strip of land (138,700hectares) in Victoria which should have been partof South Australia. Over the next 43 years SouthAustralia made various legal attempts to claim theland, but a High Court Judgement in 1911 foundin favour of the existing erroneous border.

An appeal to the Judicial Committee of the PrivyCouncil was dismissed in 1914, and hence the dogleg in the South Australian border at the MurrayRiver has remained to this day.

Murray River

Murray

River

Road

CoachOld

MainWentworth

Road

Wentworth

Border Cliffs

VICTORIA

NEW

SOUTH WALES

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

South AustralianVictorian border is

undeterminedalong the Murray River

HorseshoeLagoon

Punkah Island

Site of Telegraph Line 1867Site of

TemporaryObservatory

141st Meridian of East Longitude

Difference3.0 kms

Ocean

138 7

00 h

ecta

res

141s

t Mer

idia

n

1847

- 18

50 S

urve

y Lin

e

Vict

oria

Sout

h Au

stra

lia

NSW

Difference3.2 kms

Murray River

LakeLittra

LakeLimbra

Punk

ah

Creek

Renmark

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Aboriginal CultureProud

40,000 Settled on Lake Mungo and gather shellfish, perch,lizards and emu eggs

30,000 Giant kangaroos and giant wombats rove the plains –megafauna

20,000 Last ice sge – snow on the nearby mountains

14,000 Climate becomes warmer – some lakes dry out

10,000 People living at Kow Swamp who look different fromthe neighbouring tribes

6,000 Lake Alexandrina formed as sea reaches today’s level

4,000 People living on the Lower Murray at Devon Downs

750 Many settlements along the river

200 The Murray supports more Aboriginals than mostother places in Australia

170 European arrivals – squatters take over the river banksand plains – many Aboriginals die from influenza andsmallpox

120 Many surviving Aboriginals forced to live on missions

Today We form our own communities and farms – someAboriginals live in the river towns

Camp Coorong museum on Ngarrindjeri history Display at Wentworth Gaol

Graham Clarke traditional PaakantyiAboriginal at Thegoa Lagoon, Wentworth

Yorta Yorta Cultural Centre at Barmah

YounghusbandAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Canoe Tree near Younghusband, South Australia. Construction of canoes was seemingly simple but required patience and skill. Bark wasremoved from river red gums only during summer, when the sap ran freely. The required size and shape of the canoe was cut with a diggingstick through the bark to the hardwood core. Flat on the ground, small fires were lit on the moist inside of the bark, which evaporated the sapand made the bark curl upwards. The ends were then pulled together and stitched with hemp and plugged with mud. Stretchers were insertedto hold the open shape. After tying it was allowed to mature when it was constantly rubbed with grease and ochre, and had a 2 year life.

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King Billy is seated on the left in the canoe, Kulkyne Tommy holding the net, William Robinson laying on the log and Tommy Monoman. 1886, Chowilla Creek. Photo courtesy of the State Library of South Australia PRG 1258/2/2328

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Mungo National ParkOver 40,000

years of life

Mungo National ParkMilduraAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Mungo National Park is part of the World Heritage Willandra Lakes System in outback New South Wales. Errosion is revealing the story ofmankind in Australia from 40,000 years. The lakes were recognised because of their importance geologically and their record of Aboriginalsettlement. During the ice age Mungo was part of a series of lakes, which drained into the Darling River. Around the eastern shores of theselakes huge sand dunes once existed consisting of sand and clays, which were progressively deposited on the dunes as the lakes dried up.

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Beauty of Mungo at sunset

As the sun sets the amazing colours of Mungo paint a wonderful palette on the landscape

Erroded lunette of Mungo Sands of time in Mungo

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Barmah–Millewa ForestAustralia’s largest river red gum forest and thebiggest ecosystem of its type in the worldThe Barmah–Millewa Forest is the largest river red gumforest in Australia, covering 66,000 hectares offloodplain between Tocumwal, Deniliquin and Echuca.Its part of the Cadell Tilt Fault line.

Many threatened native plants, birds, fish and reptilesmake this forest and its wetlands their home. Springfloods keep river red gums healthy and allow waterbirdsto breed and raise their young. It is also an importanthabitat for native fish.

Gunbower–Koondrook–Perricoota ForestAustralia’s second largest river red gum forestThe Gunbower–Koondrook–Perricoota Forest coversaround 50,000 hectares and is home to many threatenednative plants and animals. It is located downstream ofTorrumbarry Weir, between Echuca and Swan Hill.

The forest wetlands are important breeding places forwaterbirds and native fish. They are also an essential destination for waterbirds, many protected undertreaties with Japan and China.

Hattah LakesA unique collection of semi-permanentfreshwater lakesThe Hattah Lakes icon site includes over 20 semi-permanent freshwater lakes. The site forms part ofthe 48,000 hectare Hattah–Kulkyne National Park.

The lakes support river red gum communities anda variety of native plants and animals. They arealso important breeding places for waterbirds.

Chowilla Floodplain andLindsay–Wallpolla IslandsOne of the most significant floodplain ecosystems in semi-arid AustraliaThe Chowilla Floodplain covers 17,700 hectaresacross 3 states: South Australia, New South Walesand Victoria. It is remote from many of theimpacts of irrigation and other development, and so much of its natural character has beenpreserved.

The Lindsay–Wallpolla Islands and theirfloodplains cover almost 20,000 hectares. Theysupport many threatened plants and animals and a number of native fish species.

Lower Lakes,Coorong and MurrayMouthA unique and significant estuaryThe Lower Lakes, Coorong and Murray Mouthextend over approximately 140,000 hectares,covering 23 different wetland types, from very fresh to saltier than the sea. This area, where theMurray River meets the sea, is one of the 10 majorhavens for large concentrations of wading birds inAustralia, and is recognised internationally as abreeding ground for many species of waterbirds andnative fish.

Murray River ChannelThe artery that connects the whole river systemThe Murray River Channel is the ‘main artery’ of theriver and extends over 2,000 kilometres from HumeDam near Albury to Wellington in South Australia.The channel forms the link between the forests,floodplains, wetlands and estuaries along theMurray and provides habitat for many native plants,fish and animals. Its banks support river red gumforests of high natural and cultural value.

Murray River Icon SitesThe Living Murray focuses on improving the environment

at 6 ‘icon sites’ along the Murray River. The Living Murrayicon sites were chosen for their high ecological value – mostare listed as internationally significant wetlands under theRamsar convention – and also for their cultural significance toIndigenous people and the broader community.

Through The Living Murray, action is under way to provide water to these sites and support a naturalenvironment unique to the Australian landscape.Ecological objectives have been developed aimed atretaining, restoring or improving the sites’ ecosystems,habitats, and species of flora and fauna.

Cruising Barmah-Millewa Forest with

Kingfisher Cruises

For more information visit www.mdba.gov.au

National & State Parks

KoondrookAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

The peaceful river landscape of the Gunbower–Koondrook–Perricoota Forest icon site

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Musk Lorikeet

Red Kangaroos

Red-necked Avocet

Eastern Blue-tongued Lizard

Photos gratefully supplied by Duncan Mackenzie - Gluepot Reserve

Australian Pelican

Owlet Nightjar

Banded Lapwing Australian magpie

Little Corella

Kookaburra

Male & female Malleefowl

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Australia’s nature at its best!The Murray River and Murray-Darling Basin are rich in biodiversity. On the Murrayand the floodplains the waters teem with life. It is home to a huge variety ofdistinctively Australian flora and fauna.

The billabongs and waters of the Murray are a natural storehouse for thousands ofdifferent species of fish, birds, reptiles, marsupials, crustaceans, insects, plants, algae,bacteria, plankton and many others. When the river floods these species spill outinto the floodplain and breed in the shallow flood water, providing instant food fornative fish.

The river and billabongs provide a diverse range of areas for nesting, feeding andbreeding, and the health of the river is critical to all the wildlife of the region thatdepend on it. The region contains Ramsar wetlands, National, Conservation andState Parks and biospheres of national and international significance.

The first biological exploration of the Murray took place in 1858 when WilliamBlandowski and Gerard Krefft took over 17,000 specimens from the Murray and thelower Darling, including many previously undescribed species.

At the time of European settlement, about 28% of Australia’s mammal species, about48% of its birds and some 19% of its reptiles were found in the Murray-Darling Basin.The significant wetlands provide a habitat for migratory birds that migrate annuallyfrom Siberia, Alaska, Japan and China.

Many research projects are being undertaken along the Murray and surrounds, tomanage loss of biodiversity and land degradation. These projects provide theopportunity for our generation to remain sustainable and ensure there are resourcesfor future generations. Importantly, these projects aim to increase awareness of theenvironmental issues surrounding this highly endangered area of Australian wildernessand in particular, threatened species of the Murray River and Murray-Darling Basin.

AbundantWildlife

William Blandowski

GerardKrefft

Water Rat Wedge-tailed Eagle

Broad banded Sand Swimmer

Galah

Southern hairy nosed wombat

Major Mitchell’sCockatoo

Broad banded Sand Swimmer

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Dairy cows, Cohuna, VictoriaDairy cows, Cohuna, VictoriaDrying grapes, Merbein, Victoria

Almond plantation, Murtho, South Australia

As part of the Murray-Darling Basin, the Murray River is Australia’s most importantagricultural region, accounting for a significant portion of Australia’s gross value inagricultural production.

It contains many different Australian farms, which produce wool, cotton, wheat, sheep, cattle, dairy products, rice, oil-seed, wine, fruit and vegetables for both domestic andoverseas markets.

As Australia’s most important agricultural region, it supports the Basin’s production of onethird of Australia’s food supply and supports over a third of Australia’s total gross value ofagricultural production.

The river that creates life New olive plantation, Robinvale, Victoria

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Yarrawonga

Adelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Apple orchard in blossom, Yarrawonga, Victoria

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Ancient Fossilised Limestone Cliffs

Towering sandstone cliffs near Walker Flat, South Australia

Magnificence of Big Bend, South Australia

Golden cliffs on a spring morning, Cadell

Plaque from fossil cliff, Mannum

NildotteAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

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Sunset near Nildotte, South Australia. Fossilised sea shells between 18 and 23 million years old arecommonly found embedded in the cliffs along the Murray River in South Australia. They includeEchinoid, Sea urchins, Oysters, Coral, Gastropods and various other shells. These would have beenembedded when the entire region was part of the Murravian Sea

Devil’s Elbow, near Nampoo Station, New South Wales Cliffs of Kulcurna, Cal Lal, New South Wales

Sunrise on the cliffs at Morgan opposite the Morgan Conservation Park

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MurthoAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Headings Cliffs between Paringa and Customs House, South Australia

Rio Vista House, Mildura. Built by William Benjamin Chaffey in 1889Albury Railway Station was built during 1881-83 and was designed byNew South Wales Government Railways Chief Engineer John Whitton

Landseers' Warehouse was completed in 1878 in time for the official opening ofthe railway. AH Landseer Ltd was not only the largest merchant in Morgan, butthe largest trading and shipping company on the Murray

The Renmark Hotel was the first community hotel in the British Empire to beestablished and administered by a trust in 1897

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MilduraAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Grand Hotel, Mildura opened in 1891 as the Mildura Coffee Palace. The Chaffey offices were next door but were laterdemolished to make way for the expansion of the Grand. The fountain at the Grand, the only remaining relic of the ChaffeyOffice, was brought to Mildura on the PS Gem together with another fountain that originally stood in front of Rio Vista House.

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Proud Architecture

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John Foord Bridge built in 1892, Corowa-Wahgunyah Murray River’s first bridge was built 1873-1879, Murray Bridge Lift span bridge at Barham Koondrook, 1904

Bridging the River

Bethanga Bridge, 1927-1930 Renmark Paringa Bridge, 1926

Bridges along the Murray River are not just functional, they are scenic and are also historical engineeringattractions. The design and building of many bridges across the Murray River were very challengingbecause they needed to accommodate paddle boats, changing river levels, and different riverenvironments. Many of the lift span bridges were designed for this very reason. Exploring the bridgesalong the Murray River gives a fascinating insight to engineering marvels that opened up the region.

Allan timber truss bridge at Swan Hill, 1896

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CurlwaaAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Sunrise over Abbotsford bridge, Curlwaa, New South Wales built 1928. The Abbotsford bridge is of important significance as the onlyremaining example of a lift span bridge in the region. With irrigation fever in the 1890s, the population and local traffic increasedstrongly. The Murray crossing at Abbotsford became more important and a punt was installed. In 1924 it was decided however abridge should be built to replace the punt. The bridge was named after Sir Joseph Palmer Abbott (1842-1901) who was Member for Wentworth in the New South Wales Parliament and he was also elected NSW delegate to the 1897-98 Federation Convention.

George Chaffey bridge, 1985 replaced the original liftspan bridge built in 1924, now in the Mildura Marina

Yarrawonga Mulwala bridge, 1924

Echuca Moama bridge. Murray River’s first completed bridge in 1878

Hindmarsh Island bridge linking Goolwa, 2001

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E X P L O R E RSCharles Sturt (1795-1869)

Often considered the finest ofAustralian explorers, Sturt made

several notable and exciting journeys. In1928-29 he explored the Macquarie,Bogan and Castlereagh rivers, and discovered theDarling. On the 1829-30 expedition he went by whaleboat down the Murrumbidgee River, found and namedthe Murray, which he then explored to is mouth; hewrecked his health on the terrible return journey. In1844-6 he travelled 3000 miles through inland Australiaunder very severe conditions.

Edward John Eyre (1815-1901)

Eyre went to live in South Australia in1838, and shortly afterwards started

his journeys of exploration. In 1841Edward John Eyre was appointed Resident Magistrateand Protector of Aborigines on the Murray River. Heestablished the post on his Moorundie property (nearBlanchetown), which was 6km downstream from the site.Eyre was instrumental in maintaining the early peacebetween white settlers and Aboriginals.

Sir Thomas Livingston Mitchell(1792-1855)

Mitchell was a notable explorer andSurveyor-General of New South

Wales. His expeditions in 1831, 1835and 1836 were aimed at completing the exploration ofthe inland rivers. He journeyed south from the Murraythrough the beautiful part of western Victoria which he

called ‘Australia Felix’. In 1845-6 he explored north fromBourke in an unsuccessful attempt to find a river flowingto the Gulf of Carpentaria.

Sir Paul Edmund de Strezelecki(1797-1873)

This Polish-born explorer and scientistspent 4 years in Australia exploring

from northern New South Wales to Tasmania. ReachingSydney in 1839, he discovered gold in the Bathurstdistrict, Governor Gipps asked him to keep it a secret. In1840 he set out from Sydney to reach Port Phillip and,while crossing the Dividing Range, he named the highestpeak Mount Kosciusko, after a famous Polish hero.

Hamilton Hume (1797-1873)

The 1824 expedition was initiated by Sir ThomasBrisbane to find a way between Sydney and Bass

Strait. Hume did discover other regions prior includingthe Lakes Bathurst, Goulburn and Yass Plains. In 1828-29he was a member of Sturt’s party in the exploration ofthe Castlereagh and Bogan Rivers. Hume acknowledgedSturt as his superior and was happy to accept asecondary role. Hume’s ability to converse with theAboriginals was an important skill.

William Hovell (1786-1875)

Aretired sea captain who had settledat Narellan, NSW, he accompanied

Hume on a famous journey ofexploration south to Port Phillip, sharingpart of the cost. Hovell’s part in the expedition whichdiscover the Murray River at Albury has sometimes beenbelittled, and subsequently he and Hume remained onbad terms, but his share in the feat was important.

Robert O’Hara Burke (1821-61)William John Wills (1834-61)

In 1860, after much discussion, Burke wasselected to lead an expedition northwards

across Australia from Melbourne to the Gulfof Carpentaria.The expedition crossed theMurray River at Swan Hill. The expedition waswell equipped by public and private money; but, mainlybecause of Burke’s impatience and lack of bushcraft, itwas a tragic failure. He died of exhaustion andstarvation on the return journey.

Wills was second in command of the ill-fated Burke andWills expedition across Australia in 1860-61. Wills was aman of very good character, but too modest for hissensible views on the expedition to prevail against thedomineering Burke. Had Wills’ advice been taken, hewould probably have survived, but both he and Burkedied of starvation, while trying to reach Adelaide.

BU S H R A N GE RSNed Kelly (1855-1880)

Edward (Ned) Kelly was born at Beveridge, Victoria in June, 1855. The family lived in a

bush shack at Eleven Mile Creek in northernVictoria. Considered a ‘flash’ in his early teens,Ned was recognised as an excellenthorseman, and could hold his own in a pub brawl.

After a few clashes with the law, Ned was first jailed in1870 for 3 months with hard labour when 15 years old,for assault and indecent behaviour.

During January 1879 the Kellys were seen in theRutherglen-Corowa region. They crossed the MurrayRiver into New South Wales to escape the VictorianPolice. New South Wales was considered a safe haven.Ned knew the river crossings well as he had previouslyworked at Fairfield Vineyard, danced at Forty’s Pub inWahgunyah, and drank in Corowa. On 27 June 1880,

Explorers, Bushrangers & LegendsFolkstories, heros and villans of the Murray Mallee region

Wills

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Ned and Dan, Steve Hart and Joe Byrne captured thetown of Glenrowan, Victoria. During the shootout Nedreceived 5 serious bullet wounds, 1 had passed throughhis foot from the toe to heel; 25 minor shotgun blastson his hands and legs, and his face, head and eyes andgroin were extensively bruised. Kelly was hung at theOld Melbourne Gaol on 11 November 1880.

Mad Dog Morgan (1830-1865)

One of the more infamous charactersfrom the history of the Culcairn and

the surrounding districts was DanielMorgan, one of the most unpleasantbushrangers of Australia’s past.

Born in Sydney in 1833 of poor Irish parents, he left andjoined the gold rush in 1853. However on the way heturned to a life of petty crime, from which he graduatedto robbery, which earned him a 12 year sentence ofhard labour. Morgan was an excellent bushman, and thisenabled him to evade the police. His hideout, 6 milesnorth of Walla Walla, provided an 180° view of thesurrounding district (now a lookout).

On 8 April 1865, Dan Morgan, held up the McPhersonfamily at Peechalba Station, Victoria. The followingmorning Dan found himself surrounded by police. He was shot in the back by station employee, JohnWendlan. He was buried at Wangaratta Cemetery.

Captain Moonlite (1842-1880)

One of the legendary visitors to theOverland Corner Hotel (SA) was

the famous Captain Moonlite akaAndrew George Scott, alias ‘Preacher’Scott, a daring bushranger of Irishorigin. After a stint in prison, hegraduated to bushranging. During 1879 when he wason the run from the New South Wales and VictorianPolice he used the Overland Corner Hotel as a wateringhole. While drinking, and still on horse back, hedemanded that both front and back doors of the hotel

be left open. He was eventually captured at WaggaWagga and hanged on 20 January 1880 at DarlinghurstGaol, Sydney.

LE GE N D SJack Riley (1841-1914)Man from Snowy River

Jack was the leg end ary horse man whomigrated from Ireland to Australia as

a 13-year-old in 1851. Jack worked as atailor near Omeo but found his truepassion as a stockman, he worked forthe Pierce family of Greg Greg, near Corryong.

Jack lived in isolation in a hut high up in the hills at TomGroggin. He loved the Snowy Mountain Country, agood yarn and enjoyed a social drink or two. Jack wasalso a good mate of the late Walter Mitchell of TowongStation, who introduced Jack Riley to Banjo Patersonwhen the pair was on a camping trip. They trekked theKosciusko Ranges and the Snowys, shared manycampfires and yarns too. Jack was the Man from SnowyRiver (page 170) who provided an inspirational journeyand material for Banjo to write his now famous poem.

Banjo Paterson (1864-1941)

Waltzing Matilda was written by A.B. (‘Banjo’) Paterson in 1896,

at Winton, Queensland. One day whilevisiting Mr Robert McPherson a largesheep station owner they saw an oldswagman trying to catch a sheep for histuckerbox. McPherson stopped thebuggy, exclaiming, ‘He’s after a jumbuck!’ And jumpingdown he chased the swaggie away, (Jumbuck was anAboriginal phrase for sheep).

This caught Paterson’s imagination and he softly spokethe lines of ‘Waltzing Matilda’. Accompanying Patersonwas Miss Christina McPherson, who was intrigued withthe words, and told the poet that she had heard a brass

band playing a tune that she though would suit them.When they reached Miss Riley’s home, Paterson andMiss McPherson sat down at the harmonium andadapted the tune to the words. The tune is an oldRochester (Kent) marching air of the Marlborough Wars.

Incidentally, as a baby, Christina McPherson (1864-1936)figured in the capture of Dan Morgan. When thatbushranger held up the McPherson homestead atPeechelba (30km south-west of Corowa), he orderedfood to be brought to him. Then he ‘requested’ MrsMcPherson to play the harmonium to him while he ate.As the baby, Christina, kept crying in the next room, heangrily told a nursemaid Alice Keenan to ‘go out andkeep that brat quiet’. She managed to escape andinform Mr Rutherford, the co-owner of the property andthe police.

R.M.Williams (1908-2003)

Reginald Murray (R.M.) Williams was aJack of all trades. At various times he

has been a bushman, camel boy,bricklayer, businessman, tea grower inNew Guinea, builder, horse breeder,grazier, explorer, miner, tycoon, raconteur,well sinker, stockman, avid reader, author,drover and the list could go on.

His childhood years were difficult but he grew up quicklyand from an early age learnt to handle horses on hisfather’s property at Belalie. He left school at the age of14. After leaving home to see the world he took on jobswherever they were available. One of his first jobs waslearning to burn lime for the construction of a church inUnderbool, in the Victorian Mallee. On the WesternAustralian goldfields he helped establish a mission forAboriginals. He learnt much from his association withthem. In particular their bushcraft, cutting mulga, burninglimestone, how to find water and track animals. Later inlife he said that ‘The mastery of these Aborigines overtheir environment has been the inspiration of my life’.

RM Portrait courtesy of R.M.Williams Pty Ltd and David Seeto

Jack Riley lived in aslab hut “up byKosciuszko’s side”

Corryong Courier

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The original namingof the Murray Riverwas the “Hume” by

Hamilton Hume on 16November, 1824 in honourof his father at Albury.Sturt however, later chosethe Murray to honour SirGeorge Murray, Secretaryof State for the Colonies

in the British Government in 1830.

Charles Sturt was born in Bengal, India in 1795 andeducated at Harrow, England. Sturt joined the BritishArmy, 39th Regiment of Foot in 1813. He served atthe end of the Peninsular War and in Canada. In 1827he was posted to Sydney, where he became MilitarySecretary to Governor Sir Ralph Darling (1825-1831).Sturt hadn't relished the idea of going to Australia,but as he became more familiar with the country hechanged his mind there were so many new andengrossing interests: the vastness of the continent’sundiscovered spaces, and the spectacle of a nation inthe making. Sturt stayed for 26 years and combinedexploring with the building of Australia as a nation. Hewas prominent in the colonisation of South Australiaand served a term as Colonial Secretary.

Where do all the rivers go?Sturt’s first journey to discover the length of theMurray River was in 1828. An exploratory trip orderedby Darling was to the north-west of Sydney. Sturtaccompanied by Hume travelled along the Macquarieand discovered the Darling River in northern NewSouth Wales. He followed the drought stricken riverfor 60 miles north as far as Bourke. He returned to

Sydney convinced that the Darling was the main outletfor tropical rains from Queensland. His question was“did it turn to the centre of Australia or head duesouth to the sea?”. He believed the latter.

The big question was “where did all these rivers flowto?” Hume’s Murray, Goulburn; Oxley’s Lachlan andMacquarie; the Bogan, and the Castlereagh. Betweenthe Condamine in the north and the Goulburn in thesouth. Nobody suspected that all the interveningrivers belonged to the same riparian scheme.

The 2 men who solved the riddle of the rivers wereSturt, in his Murray whaleboat, and Major Mitchell,who made 4 land journeys that went as far as theBarcoo and enabled him to link up the fragments ofthe rivers already discovered. What sent Sturt to theMurray was a turn of Governor Darling’s intereststowards the south, where the Murrumbidgee River(discovered 1821 by Charles Throsby) was beginningto assume importance in the scheme of Australiancolonisation. Where did the Murrumbidgee finish?

The Murray Journey beginsOn November 3, 1829 Sturt left Sydney to assumecommand of the Murray River Voyage. With 3 bullockdrays, a cart, and saddle-horses, it was a typicaloverlander’s outfit. They also took planks for buildinga whaleboat. To Sturt’s disappointment Hume couldnot go. The position was filled by George Macleay,the son of the Colonial Secretary. Macleay proved anable lieutenant, amicable and resourceful as well as astrong oarsman. The team members, soldiers andconvicts also proved themselves. Sent on a tough,punishing job with no guarantee of reward, theydisplayed absolute loyalty and endurance. Sturt wasan ideal leader.

The account of the journey has been constructed from Sturt’s diary, published in London in 1833.Following the Murrumbidgee from Wagga to Hay was slow.

“The plains were open to the horizon. Views asboundless as the ocean. No timber but here and therea stunted gum or a gloomy cypress. Neither bird nor beast inhabited these lonely regions overwhich the silence of the grave seemed to reign.”

But there were a few Aboriginals living along the river:in fact, tribes varying in number and disposition weremet throughout the whole journey. There was no realtrouble. Sturt was confident on his present line hewould meet the Darling River. “I had no doubt,” hewrote, “that ultimately I would reach the coast”.

Due to the difficulty of travelling by land about 10-20miles from the Lachlan River junction, Sturt decided togo by river. On 26 December, 1829 his teamassembled (lead by Carpenter Clayton) a 25 footwhaleboat, and built a log skiff for carrying stores andonly 2 oars. The party was divided - 8 for SouthAustralia and 6 returned overland to Goulburn Plains.The boat party departed 7 January, 1830. The crew,besides Sturt and Macleay were Harris, Hopkinson,and Frasier (soldiers), and9 convicts.

The journey was initially, inparts, dangerous and difficultalong the Murrumbidgee. “A sudden wreck and defeatof the expedition appearedimminent.” The skiff filled withwater and sank. Although itwas recovered, together with

Captain Charles Sturt (1795-1869)

“...we continued to gaze in silent admiration on the capacious channel”

45

the casks of salted meat, fresh water mixing with thebrine spoiled the meat and caused the most seriousfood shortage of the whole trip. The men did notlike freshwater fish and waterfowl were scarce.

The Murray RiverJanuary 14, 1830 was a great day in the history ofexploration: “Suddenly the Murrumbidgee took asouthern direction but in its tortuous course sweptround to every point of the compass with thegreatest irregularity. We were carried at a fearful ratedown it’s gloomy and contracted banks. At 3 p.m.,Hopkinson called out that we were approaching ajunction, and in less than a minute afterwards wewere hurried into a broad and noble river.” Sturt wason the Murray, 770 miles (1,239km) from its mouth.

“It was impossible for me to describe the effect ofso instantaneous a change of circumstances uponus. The boats were allowed to drift along atpleasure...we continued to gaze in silent admirationon the capacious channel. We had escaped from awreck...[and] were assured of ultimate success...Wewere on the high road either to the south coast orto some important outlet.”

It was fine drifting down the sunlit river; butsomewhere near the present site of Mildura, Sturtbecame anxious. The river’s persistent north-northwest trend had been puzzling. There was not sign

of the Darling, no hint of aseaward change. Furthermore, hewas now in the heart of Aboriginalcountry, and the mood of thetribes had changed. They were inwar-paint and carried spears andshields. Once they swam aroundthe boat, impeding the rowing.Sturt landed, sat down and heldout a leafy branch of peace, andall was well – temporarily.

Sturt at the Murray-Darling JunctionThe day of 23 January, 1830 takes us to thedramatic and dangerous happenings of the Murray-Darling junction. The sail had been hoisted for thefirst time and the boat was speeding when, withoutwarning, the men saw the river shoaling fast. Ahuge sandbank, projecting nearly a third of the wayacross the channel was crowded with hostileAboriginals. The boat ran aground. The crew weresitting shots; an engagement looked certain. “Themen were given guns but instructed not to fire untilI had discharged both my barrels.”

An intervening chief to which Sturt had previouslyheld out a peace offering, swam across the stream.He was a man of authority, and he persuaded themto lower their spears. Watchful, but cool andentirely fearless, Sturt kept control of the situation.The peacemaker received a gift; guns were putaway and the boat pushed off the sandbank...”Then it was just as she floated again that ourattention was withdrawn to a new and beautifulstream coming from the north.” It was the Darling.The explorers proceeded upstream followed onboth banks by Aboriginals, curious and chatteringvolubly, still armed but not so ill-disposed. Macleaythrew them a tin kettle as a further peace-offering.

Near the present site of Wentworth, Sturt called ahalt. He was now certain he was on the DarlingRiver, no longer the dried-out disappointment he'dseen hundreds of miles away at Bourke. “Itherefore directed the Union Jack to be hoistedand we all stood up in the boat and gave threedistinct cheers...” Back to the junction. It was thenthat Sturt named the river after Sir George Murray.

Sturt's method of charting the river incorporated asheet of paper and a compass before him, and hemarked down not only the river line but also adescription of the riverside country. Not a singlebend was omitted. “Great heat. Seldom under

100°F (38°C) at noon.Relays of natives stillfollowing.” By the endof January they hadpassed what is now the border line between South Australia andVictoria. Soon afterwards the Murray turned south, flowed pastRenmark and Berri to Loxton, and then, perversely, resumed it'snorth-westerly direction up past Waikerie. Sturt’s anxiety increased.Where were their wanderings to end?

On 3 February, 1830 the old Murray made full amends: “Suddenlythe river turned to the S.E. and gradually came round to E.N.E. thenheld on due south course.” Sturt was on the Morgan Bend. Therewere 200 miles (321km) to go, all due south. “The river increased inbreadth and stretched away before us in magnificent reaches of fromthree to six miles in length. Cliffs towered above us; they werecomposed of a mass of shells of various kinds.” Signs werebeginning to suggest that the sea could not be very far off. TheMurray was on a permanent course south; Aboriginals seemed to be trying to tell of some big water. Then a real harbinger of hopeappeared – a seagull.

Lake AlexandrinaOn 7 February, 1830 (near the position of Murray Bridge) an oldAboriginal distinctly informed them that they were fast approachingthe sea. To the west rose some lofty ranges – the first seen sinceleaving the upper Murrumbidgee. The last day down the Murray was9 February. Sturt had landed to survey the country from a piece ofrising ground. Then he saw it.

“Immediately below me was a beautiful lake which appeared to be afitting reservoir for the noble stream which had led us to it. Evenwhile grazing at this fine scene I could not but regret that the Murrayhad thus terminated, for I immediately foresaw that in all probabilitywe should be disappointed in finding any practicable communicationbetween the lake and the ocean.”

Memorialdedicated to Sturt’s

voyage, Lock 10, Wentworth, NSW

Sturt’s encounter atthe Murray-Darlingconvergence with Aboriginals

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OurPioneering

Spirit

David Shearer, Mannum

Hovell & Hume, Albury Customs House plaque

Memorial Hall, Walpeup (Mallee) Captain Cadell, Cadell

Major Mitchell, Swan Hill

William Randell, Noa No Landing, Mannum Captain Charles Sturt, Loxton

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Floods

Tree of Knowledge flood levels, Loxton

Cairn dedicated to the Massey-Ferguson tractor which helped play a major rolein creating levy banks during the 1956 flood, Wentworth, New South Wales

‘56 flood, Mannum

The 1956 Murray River flood involved the rising of waters in the Murray River and flooding of many towns in three states of Australia, including the towns of

Colignan, Iraak, Mannum, Murray Bridge, Mildura, Nangiloc, Red Cliffs, Renmark,Wentworth and many others. Months of heavy rainfall in the eastern states resulted

in a massive volume of water surgingthrough the Murray-Darling system.

The flood occurred due to higherthan average rainfalls in WesternQueensland and heavy rains in theproceeding 3 months in Murraycatchment areas, peaking at 12.3 metres at Morgan. Some areas were flooded up to 100kmfrom the natural flow of the river.

The ‘56 flood was and still isconsidered the biggest flood in the recorded history of the Murray River and described as “the greatest catastrophe in South Australia’s history”.

Overland Corner Hotel, South Australia

Courtesy of Mannum Dock Museum

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Mannum, early 1900s

During the latter half of the 19th and early 20th centuries the Murray River was a major inland highway for pastoralists, settlers and travellers. Fleets of paddle steamers and their barges carried produce from stations and farms to transit points downriver. There were floating shops bringing goods to the settlers, mail steamers crossing

Historic Port of Echuca, Victoria

the lakes, mission boats and passenger liners, as well as small fishing boats, ferries, powerful milk launches and boats thathelped build the weirs and kept the channels free of snags. Ports, trading companies and shipbuilding facilities were established, and many of the Murray’s settlements developed around the trade brought by the river boats.

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The PS Emmylou is driven by a completely restored 1906 steam engine.Built locally during 1980-82 in the style of the 19th century. She is 30 metres long and 10 metres wide, steel hulled and timber decked.

Murray River Expedition Cruises (commissioned 1981 and formerly theProud Mary) at Big Bend, South Australia

PS Industry (1911), Renmark

PS Melbourne (1912), MilduraPaddle steamers& River boats

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BowhillAdelaide

Melbourne

CanberraPS Marion (1897), PS Oscar W (1908) and William Randell at Piggy Flat, near Bowhill, South Australia

Murray River Queen (1974), Waikerie

Murray Princess at Purnong, South Australia. Based on the “Mississippi” style riverboat, it carries 120 passengers in 60 cabins and staterooms and is part of the Captain Cook Cruise fleet. It weights

1,500 tonnes and was built at Goolwa by the late Keith Veenstra in 1986.

Cumberoona (replica of 1886 original), Albury PS Ruby (1907), Wentworth

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William Randell, Oscar W, Odyssey Houseboat upriver from Mannum

PB Coonawarra built in Echuca by Murray Valley Coaches from original 1894 barge hull, Wentworth

Music role of the Murray from PS Ruby

PS Hero built 1874, Echuca Captain Proud, Murray Bridge. Originally built as the Proud Lady in 1977

Akuna Amphibious originally built in 1875 and rebuilt 2000-02, Overland Corner

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Born in England, William Richard Randell,came to South Australia as a 13 year old

boy with his family in October 1837, only 10months after the Colony of South Australia hadbeen founded.

William, with the help of his brothers, beganbuilding their steamboat in July, 1852 eventhough none of them had ever seen a paddlesteamer. The boat was named Mary Ann aftertheir mother, and was powered by ‘a fearsomewood-burning engine of 8 horsepower’constructed by a German engineer in Adelaide.

William Randell took the Mary Ann for a trial runon the Murray on 19 February, 1853 andachieved his ambition 'to be the first man to puta steamboat on the river’. Twenty-one tons ofcargo were then carted across the hills fromGumeracha for the first trading voyage whichcommenced on 15 August, 1853 just north ofMannum at Noa No Landing.

The second steamboat captain on the river wasCaptain Francis Cadell. R.N. and the LadyAugusta. Cadell had spent many years at sea and

had studied river navigation in the United States. Cadell’s voyage commenced at Goolwa on 25 August, 1853. Not far past the Murrumbidgee junction Lady Augusta passed Mary Ann.

During the next few days the streamers travelled more or less neck-and-neck, first one in the lead, then the other.

The Lady Augusta arrived in Swan Hill on 17 September, 23 days after leaving Goolwa,a few hours ahead of the Mary Ann. Bothparties stayed there the next day, which wasSunday, and then set off again. The Mary Annsoon took the lead and led the way past whatwas to be Captain Cadell’s highest point onthe voyage, Gannawarra.

From there Randell went on to Maiden’sPunt, later to become Moama (the settlementacross the river from the future port ofEchuca). Randell had steamed no fewer than 1,718km from Goolwa.

First streamers on the Murray

The PS Gem (1876 as a barge) Swan Hill is on permanent display

Stoking the fire, PS Marion

PS Marion & Gypsy Ellen, Morgan

Paddlewheels, PS Melbourne

CaptainWilliamRandell

CaptainFrancisCadell

Sketch of Mary Ann and Lady Augusta

at Swan Hill, 1853

Captain Randell with boilder from Mary Ann

Echuca Moama

Adelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

The massive red gum Echuca Wharf changed the course of Australia's economic history. The construction of the wharf andrailway at Echuca in 1865 enabled goods to be moved quickly and affordably from the Riverina and New South Wales toMelbourne. As the pastoral districts thrived, river trade grew, and the wharf expanded until the Port of Echuca became thelargest port for trade on the Murray River. By the late 1880s it was Victoria’s second largest port, helping Melbourne toovertake Sydney and become Australia’s economic capital

The wharf developed into a huge concern turning over 240 paddlesteamer visits and handling goods valued at £2,256,435 in 1890

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Nor West Bend Station, Cadell, South Australia, was established in 1850 and is National Trust listed.Functions and Group Tours are available by appointment

Chowilla Station river shearers quarters are now hired out for group eco-stays. In 1896 Bookmark was divided up into the Calperum and Chowilla Stations withRobert Robinson taking Chowilla and John Robinson taking Calperum Wilkadine Homestead, built 1913 near Paringa, South Australia

Classic Aussie Homesteads

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MilduraAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Mildura Homestead - The pastoral era began here on 1 March, 1847, when squatter Francis Jenkins swam 900 cattle and 10 horses across the river from New South Wales. Believing he had settled in South Australia, Jenkins travelled to Adelaide to register his selection ‘Stateman’. Jenkins returned to discover his claim had been taken by Hugh and Bushby Jamieson whoobtained the first Depasturising Licence for a leasehold they named Yerre Yerre. In 1858 the name changed to Mildura.

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Birth of Australia’s Irrigation“Some day the whole of Mildura will be as this garden”

a ‘Sahara of hissing hot winds and red driving sand, a carrion-polluted wilderness’, George Chaffey knewhe had found what he had come to Australia for.Mildura Station was a lonely and depressing place, butnext to a homestead, was a small and flourishing fruitand vegetable garden watered by a windmill-operatedpump from the river. It was a miniscule oasis in thatdesert and his prophetic words were “Some day thewhole of Mildura will be as this garden”.

Australia’s first irrigation colonyChaffey believed that he found the conditions whichwould enable the development in Australia of anirrigated fruit colony based upon his successfulCalifornian model. The brothers sold up their assets inthe United States and launched the ‘Chaffey IrrigationFruit Colony’. In spite of the suspicion and oppositionshown by some members of the Victorian parliamentthere was broad public and press support for theChaffey proposal. The debate was carefully observedfrom across the borders by the neighbouring colonies inSouth Australia and New South Wales, and the Chaffeyswere invited by the South Australian Government toestablish their fruit colony. The brothers quicklyaccepted and on the 14 February 1887 an agreementwas signed for the establishment at Renmark in SouthAustralia of Australia’s first irrigation settlement.

The agreement reached with the South AustralianGovernment seemed to enhance the reputation of theChaffeys in Victoria and shortly after, on 31 May, 1887,an agreement was signed between the Chaffeybrothers and the Victorian Government. In August theChaffeys arrived at Mildura Station and formally tookover the land for their irrigation settlement. It seemsquite clear from the recordings of the day that theMurray itself was taken for granted; there was no

thought given to the likely effects of the irrigation proposals on the river or its health, except for the possibleeffect on those living downstream from the water diversion.As in most cases ‘downstream’ meant South Australia, andthat was a separate Colony and not of great concern toVictoria and New South Wales.

Charles Chaffey, a younger brother of George and W.B.arrived in April 1888 and agreed to take over the Renmarkoperation. He selected land and gave plans for thebuilding of his home to former Goolwa shipwright andcarpenter A.F. Matulick. Charles returned to America andin October, 1888 brought out his pregnant wife Ella andson. Ella remained in Adelaide to give birth to their secondson and in January, 1889 the family and servants travelledby the PS Corowa to Paringa. Here they resided in theParinga Station Homestead situated on a hill close by theParinga Bridge today, until they moved into their newhome ‘Olivewood’ in the last months of 1889.

It’s been noted interestingly that noeffective analysis of the proposedirrigation scheme was researchedand the differences betweenAustralia and the other countries of the world where irrigationfarming had been practisedsuccessfully.

Problems encountered by theearlier irrigation colonies includedpublicity, finance, power andsovereignty of the individualcolonies, and mechanical problemsconcerned with raising of waterfrom the river and it’s transmissionto where it was needed. For the

Alfred Deakin, later to become one of thefounding fathers of the Commonwealth andit’s Prime Minister on 3 occasions, developed

a conviction that the only way to settle and developthe northern part of Victoria would be by irrigation.He believed that in this region the fertile soil, theabundant sunshine and the Murray’s plentiful water,which when brought together would make even theinhospitable Mallee region prosper.

In 1884 Deakin travelled to the United States wherehe met the brothers George and William BenjaminChaffey, 2 Canadians who had combined theirirrigation talents to create an irrigation colony inCalifornia, which was highly successful.

Deakin was enormously impressed with what he saw, and with seemingly very little understanding of thedifferences between the American and Australiansituations, assumed that irrigation on the Chaffey schemecould be successfully transplanted to the Mallee. Hepressed the Chaffeys to come to Australia and offered hisfull support to help them become established.

In 1886 George Chaffey arrived in Melbourne andbecame frustrated with negotiations with the VictorianGovernment. Many local politicians were suspicious ofChaffey’s new ideas. George had reached a state ofsuch frustration that he decided to get away fromMelbourne and at least travel along the Murray to theMallee country. He reached the site of the old MilduraStation, described by a Melbourne newspaper as,

Plaque fromW.B.ChaffeyStatue,Mildura

Irrigating1890s

W.B.Chaffey

George Chaffey

CharlesChaffey

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backbone of the scheme, it was envisaged thatsettlers with some capital would come and buy theirrigated blocks as they were developed, and thecapital flow would enable the engineering works tobe expanded and more land opened up.

The settlers were enticed largely through The RedBook (The Australian Irrigation Colonies, Illustrated),which the Chaffeys produced. Many settlers sold upand came on the long journey from the British Islesto the heat, flies and dust storms of Mildura, allfired up with the ambition of making Mildura “The Fruit Garden of the Universe”.

George Chaffey, the engineer, was laying out thechannels which would carry the gravity fed water towhere it was needed and arranging for the pumpswhich would raise it from the river. Georgeeventually designed and wrote the specificationsfor the massive pumps which were to be the heartof the 2 major pumping stations needed, andordered them from a British engineering firm.When the pumps arrived they performedmagnificently year in and year out at Mildura.

The early days provided high hopes, generous early harvests, rapidly increasing land values, and a general fever of excitement despite the difficultconditions. Such difficulties included issues overwater rights, destruction of irrigations channelsfrom the yabby and the first signs of salinityencountered in irrigation.

Only 6 years after the Chaffey’s arrived, Milduracelebrated its first general harvest, and growersand purchasers celebrated the high quality of fruitand vegetables. Vine pests were a major problemthroughout the world at this time. Phylloxera, thedreaded disease caused by a tiny, sap-suckinginsect, which had first appeared in France, quicklyspread through the regions of the world, includingan appearance Geelong and in Victoria’s north-east,Rutherglen and Corowa.

The CrashThe vines of Mildura and South Australia remainedPhylloxera free and remain so today due to strictquarantine measures and protection by the Malleecountry surrounding them. The other difficultyMildura faced was it’s geographical location, whichwas independent from the rest of the country. InMay 1893 the land boom was over and the greatbank crash shook the economic and social structureof Victoria to its foundations. This significantlyimpacted the hope of Mildura and the promise ofrailway support was withdrawn. Mildura’s valuesdropped, settlers walked off the land, mortgageswere foreclosed.

The early setbacks were part of irrigationpioneering and demonstrated even more forcibly inefforts to establish Murray-side settlements oncommunal lines. Swept along in the earlyenthusiasm for the changes being wrought atMildura and Renmark, some utopian groups hadsought land rights on the great river, and in 1894the South Australian Government responded byapproving and setting up 10 small-scale irrigationsettlements, each with control of its affairs entirelyin the hands of its members.

The groups were to settle at about 30km intervals –9 down-river from Renmark, the tenth up river –with about 350 men, women and children in eachgroup. The areas chosen were Lyrup, Pyap, NewResidence, Moorook, Kingston-on-Murray, Holder,Waikerie, Ramco, Gillen and New Era. Communalways produced their own problems and by 1896many men had left. Years later, after they had beenreconstituted on more normal lines, the survivingsettlements prospered.

By December, 1895 the Chaffey brothers’ Companyhad gone into liquidation and it seemed the dreamwas gone. George Chaffey decided to return to theUnited States while W.B. Chaffey stayed on inMildura and over a period of years fought back to

help overcome manyof the problems whichcrippled the earlysettlement. A RoyalCommission wasestablished toinvestigate the failuresof the irrigationschemes. In the reportissued in 1896 it foundthat the schemes hadbeen built on wishfulthinking rather thanrealistic costs estimates, and thatas constituted they could neveroperate profitably.

Chaffey’s, The Red Book

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Dartmouth DamConstruction: 1973 - 1979

Dartmouth Dam impounds the watersof the Mitta Mitta River about 24km

from the township of Mitta Mitta in northeastern Victoria. It is the largest capacitydam in Victoria and the highest structureof its kind in Australia. When full, the damstores 4,000,000 megalitres of highquality water from the surrounding alpineareas of Victoria.

The dam was constructed for the primepurpose of storing water for irrigation,and domestic and stock use in New SouthWales, Victoria and South Australia. In dryseasons it supplements releases fromLake Hume and increases supplies to theMurray River system. When high qualitywater is released from the dam to theMurray, this helps to reduce salinity in thedownstream reaches.

Hume ReservoirConstruction: Commenced November, 1919 - completed 1936

Hume Reservoir is the main operatingstorage of the Murray River system.

Releases from the Reservoir, in conjuctionwith downstream tributary flows, supplywater along the Murray to New SouthWales and Victoria for irrigation,domestic, stock and urban purposes.

Flows from Hume Reservoir andtributaries maintain a minimum flow alongthe Murray and provide about one thirdof South Australia's entitlement. In verydry years, when storage in the LakeVictoria and the Menindee Lakes isinadequate, additional releases are madespecifically for South Australianrequirements. In turn, Hume Reservoir canbe supplemented in times of drought bywater released from Dartmouth Dam onthe Mitta Mitta River.

Lake VictoriaManagement: Since 1928

Lake Victoria is a naturally occuringshallow freshwater Lake, approx.

60km downstream of the Murray-Darlingconvergence in south-western New SouthWales, (close to the South Australian andNew South Wales border). 70km west ofWentworth on the Wentworth-RenmarkRoad. Lake Victoria is operated by theMurray-Darling Basin Authority as aregulated, off-river storage as part of theMurray River system.

Lake Victoria is an important site forAboriginal culture. The cultural heritageof Lake Victoria is recognised as being of exceptionally high importance toAboriginal people, and of traditional andhistoric significance to the broaderAustralian community at a national level.

Goolwa BarragesConstruction: Commenced December1934 - completed February, 1940

The barrages, which have beenconstructed in the vicinity of the

Murray mouth, are commonly known asthe Goolwa Barrages, and consist of 5separate structures.

The main purpose of the barrages at theMurray mouth is to maintain the freshnessof the Murray as far downstream asWellington. In addition to this, it shouldprevent the ingress of salt water from thesea during periods of low river, and helpsmaintain the freshness of the water inLakes Alexandrina and Albert. Thusensuring the productivity of thesurrounding areas which would otherwisebe injuriously affected by salt water afterlong periods of salinity in the lakes.

Dams, Barrages & ReservoirsConstruction of the Hume Reservoir wall 1920s

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National & State Parks

HumeReservoir

Adelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Water rushing from Hume Reservoir down the Murray River towards Albury

Power generator at Hume Reservoir

Looking west along Murray River

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How a lock works going downriver

The system of locks and weirs on the Murray Riverwas designed to provide stable pools forirrigation diversions and enable navigation of the

river through the year. Around 1902 the 3 states of NewSouth Wales, Victoria and South Australia agreed onhow to manage the river. The then newly formed RiverMurray Commission set about initiating acomprehensive program of works along the river. It wasagreed that Victoria and New South Wales would jointlyundertake the task of building a major storage on theupper Murray as a basic means of regulating river flow.

As a joint effort, the 3 states agreed to construct 26 weirs and locks (14 were constructed) to maintainnavigable waters all year round for over 1600km. SouthAustralia moved quickly to construct 9 weirs and lockson its section. South Australian Parliament had already

authorised the construction of the weir at Blanchetownand work had begun in 1913. The design, which was laterapplied to Locks 2 to 10, was recommended by CaptainJohnson of the USA Corps of Engineers who had beenengaged by the South Australian Government in 1912.

Passing through a lockPassing downstream: The water inside the chamber mustbe at the same level as the top weir pool, to allow thegates to open. The top gates open by hydraulic arms. Thegates are closed behind the boat and the water in thelock chamber is released by opening large hydraulicallyoperated butterfly valves. The valves are slightly smallerthan an average house door. Water flows from the lockchamber, via tunnels, to the weir pool below. The boat islowered until its equal to the level of the lower weir pool.

The bottom gates are then opened and the boatcontinues on its way. The water levels in locks are raisedand lowered entirely by gravity; no pumps are used.

Passing upstream the reverse occurs: After the boatenters the lock chamber and the gates are closed behindit, valves are opened above the upstream gates to fill thechamber, via tunnels from the top weir pool. Water entersthe chamber from the tunnels through ports spaced alongthe bottom of each wall. This distributes the inflowingwater to minimise turbulence in the lock chamber as itfills. When the water level in the lock chamber is equal tothe weir pool, the gates can be opened.

It takes only 7 minutes to empty or fill the lock chamberbut it normally takes 15 to 20 minutes to pass a boatthrough the lock. Six to 8 medium houseboats can beaccommodated in one lockage.

Locks & Weirs

Upstream gates open as a vessel enters the lock chamber Upstream gates closeWater is released downstream through butterfly valvesWater in lock chamber lowers

When water levels are equal downstream gates open

Entering Lock 11, Mildura on PS Melbourne Pelicans feeding at the Lock 1, Blanchetown

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Lock 9 (built 1926) near Cullulleraine, one early autumn morning

Construction of Lock 1 at Blanchetown around 1920

From the River Murray Commission handbook, 1946

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Snowy Mountains SchemeThe Snowy Mountains Scheme is the

largest hydro-electric scheme inAustralia. It diverts the reliable waters ofthe south-flowing Snowy River,westwards, beneath the Great DividingRange, and in doing so provides electricpower and additional water for theMurray and Murrumbidgee Rivers to beused for irrigation.

The earliest scheme for the diversion ofthe Snowy River waters to those of theMurrumbidgee River dates back to 1884.Proposals for electric power developmentfollowed, and in 1944 a dual-purposescheme of power generation andirrigation emerged. The year 1949 sawthe development of a comprehensivescheme which was approved byCommonwealth and State governments.In the same year the Snowy MountainsHydro-electric Authority was created andwork began. Dams were built, tunnelswere cut through the mountains, pipelineslaid and power stations constructed.

The Scheme took 25 years to build andwas completed in 1974. More than100,000 people from over 30 countriescame to work in the mountains to maketrue a vision of diverting water to farms tofeed a growing nation and to build powerstations to generate electricity for homesand industries.

The civil engineering works were carriedout by Australian and overseascompanies, while the building of

aqueducts, erection of transmission lines,10 townships, 100 camps and more than1,600km of roads and tracks, in some ofAustralia’s roughest country, wereconstructed by the Authority’s staff at acost of $82 million.

The scheme has 2 principal parts: TheSnowy-Tumut Development (diverts waterto the Murrumbidgee River) and theSnowy-Murray Development (diverts waterfrom the Snowy to the Murray River).

Snowy Mountains generatorThe cross section of the Snowy-MurrayDevelopment shows the passage of waterwestwards from Lake Eucumbene and theother smaller reservoirs, through theMurray 1 & 2 power stations and finallyinto the Murray River near Khancoban.The Snowy-Murray System provides anaverage of 570 gigalitres of water annuallyto the Murray via the Hume Reservoir.During dry periods the inflow to theMurray is increased to 920 gigalitres.

The power generation utilises waterunder great pressure to spin the turbineswhich operate the generators. Thegenerator is usually mounted on a verticalshaft above the turbine. The amount ofpower generated is conditional on the‘head’ of water (distance the water falls)and the volume of water regulatedthrough the turbine. Transformers boostgenerated voltage which is thentransmitted over high voltagetransmission lines to load centres.

Hydro-power generation utilises a plentiful supply of water, it emits no pollutants andis versatile in that it can be brought ‘on stream’ quickly for peak-load situations. In factthe scheme is a ‘peak-load’ system, which supports the ‘base-load’ generation of thecoal-fired, steam-operated systems in south-eastern Australia.

At Murray 1 and 2 power stations the water falls about 750m and generates 1,500megawatts of power in the 2 stations. The Snowy-Murray Development provides980,000 megalitres of additional water annually, through the Hume Reservoir to theMurray River.

• Snowy Mountains Scheme Education Centre open daily except for Christmas Day,New Year’s Day and Anzac Day.

• Murray 1 Visitors Centre and Power Station open daily during summer and weekdaysduring winter

• Murray 1 Power Station near Khancoban. Inspections daily. Times can changewithout notice.

Further information is available at the Snowy Mountains Scheme Education Centre atCooma. For more information visit the Snowy Hydro website www.snowyhydro.com.au

Murray 1 Power Station Cut-away drawing of a Francis Turbine

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Kosciuszko National Park

Adelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Australia’s alpine rooftop. Mount Kosciuszko (2,228 metres) in the Kosciuszko National Park. Melting snow from the ranges makes its way to the Murray River.

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Historic Port of Echuca, Victoria

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Souvenirs of our past

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Meet some locals

Frank Turton on MV Wilitsinkorwontit, Renmark

Jock Veenstra, Spirit of the Murray, Mildura

Graham Clarke, Harry Nanya Tours, Mungo National Park

Roger Heritage on PS Marion looking at PS Oscar W,

Jocelyn Lindner at Kow Plains Homestead, Cowangie

Allan Carthew & Jock Robertson on Big River Rambler

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Images of our past

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Houseboats on the MurrayIndulge in a truly unique Australian houseboatriver experience that you won’t forget!Enjoying the river at Mildura, Victoria near Lock 11

Cruising between Mildura and Wentworth at Curlwaa, New South Wales

Cruising in luxury on your very own Australian houseboat holiday along the greatMurray River is one of life’s truly unforgettable experiences. When you hit the water

you just relax. Do as much or as little as you like. Australian houseboats on the Murrayare more like cruising in 5 star luxury floating hotels. The boats have all the mod consplus give you the absolute freedom of doing whatever you like...when you like. It’s sopeaceful sitting back and relaxing or you can bring some toys and have some fun as well.

The Murray region offers hundreds of kilometres of amazing riverscapes to explore.

Winter, summer, spring and autumn, there are beautiful and unique landscapes andtowns to discover. So grab some friends visit www.MurrayRiver.com.au/houseboatsand start your next memorable Australian houseboat holiday!

BBQ on the read deck, Purnong Historic wharf at Morgan Riverfront at Renmark Sunrise at Chowilla

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Houseboats and paddle steamers at the historic port of Echuca, Victoria - Moama, New South Wales

BBQ on the read deck, Purnong Historic wharf at Morgan Riverfront at Renmark Sunrise at Chowilla

Swan ReachAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Relaxing in front of the historic Swan Reach Hotel, South Australia. Swan Reach was first settled in the 1850sand was originally the largest of 5 sheep and cattle stations in the area at the time. The original Swan Reachhomestead is now the Swan Reach Hotel and some of the old stables are still standing at the back of the hotel

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Gehrig Wines, Rutherglen

Mildara Wines vineyard, Mildura

Gnarly old vines of Langhorne Creek

Murray’s Fabulous Wine RegionsRutherglen

Rutherglen region contains rich wines, deepsoul and character. James Halliday, Australia’spremier wine commentator said: “One of thetruly great wine tourism destinations”. Theregion offers 23 wineries, each with its ownhistory and expertise, collectively can provideyou with an enduring memory.

Echuca Moama

Visit the unique cellar doors of the Echucawineries and the Moama Perricoota wineregion. Relax and enjoy the locak producewhilst meeting with the many localwinemakers and sample their individualwares. Local cellar doors include Jaengenyawines, Chanter Estate Winery, Morrisons,Silverfox Wines, St Anne’s Winery, Cape Horn Vineyard.

Swan Hill

A combination of sunshine and cool clearnights allow the grapes an ideal, long, slow,ripening. Crisp whites, and full-bodied redsare produced in the area. While in the regionmake sure to visit Andrew Peace Wines,Bulga Wine Estates, Buller Wines, RenewanWines, Date Brothers Wines, Brumby Wines,Oak Dale Wines, Yellymong, JacannaVineyard Wines, Dos Rios.

Robinvale Euston

The Robinvale Euston region forms part ofthe Mildura wine region. Great wines comefrom this region. Experience RobinvaleWinery (McWilliams Wines) six generations of winemaking since 1877 and RobinvaleOrganic Wines Bio-Dynamic vineyardsestablished 1976.

Mildura Merbein WentworthThe Mildura Region boasts over 34 wineriesranging from micro to large scale facilities. Over 50% of the Mildura region wineries areexporting. The Mildura region has a history oflarge producers such as Beringer Blass (Mildara),McGuigan Simeon Wines (Buronga Hill Winery),Hardy Wine Company (Stanley Wines) andSouthcorp (Lindemans).

Riverland (South Australia)

The Riverland accounts for around half of SouthAustralia’s total crush and around one quarter of Australia’s production. The Riverland wineregion has approximately 1,300 winegrapegrowers.

The Riverland's is committed to viticulturalquality through ‘world’s best practices’ inirrigation, clone selection, and vineyardmanagement techniques produce excellentfruit. Its innovative winemaking enables theregion to produce wines that people love todrink and are award-winning.

The majority of the wine produced fromRiverland grapes is sold by Constellation Wines,Boar's Rock Wines, Australian Vintage, PernodRicard Australia, Angove’s, Kingston Estate,Salena Estate and Thachi Wines.

Langhorne Creek

Majestic gum trees, fine food and premiumwines ... don't miss Langhorne Creek! Thebeautiful Langhorne Creek region promotes awine history dating back to 1850. LanghorneCreek is traditionally a red wine grape regionbest known for its full-bodied CabernetSauvignon and Shiraz. With a surprisingly coolclimate, the region also produces exceptionallyflavoured white and fortified wines.

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Kingston-on-MurrayAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Banrock Station at Kingston-on-Murray in South Australia’s Riverland. Aboriginal people had a harmonious and sustainablerelationship with the landscape for over 20,000 years. However, in the early 1800s the region was settled by Europeans whosevalues and agriculture have led to a decline in the natural environment. In 1994 the Crown lease for the land was transferred toBanrock Station after years of neglect and the mallee woodlands stripped. They began reversing the damage of over a century.Now it’s a wonderful place to experience great food and wine in a sensitively and responsibly managed eco-system.

Australia’sWine Garden

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Albury Golf Club at sunrise

Murray Downs Resort, Swan Hill Rich River Golf Club, Moama Echuca Renmark Golf Club

World’s longest river golf round

Golfing along the Murray River is a great way toenjoy the game and experience the mosaic ofmanicured greens, championship courses,

diverse long sweeping fairways and diverse travelexperiences. With Australia’s greatest river as awonderful back drop you can enjoy your game in oneof the world’s longest river golf rounds.

Stuart Appleby grew up at Cohuna and loves golfingon the Murray River. “The Murray River is one of themost beautiful regions in Australia and a true sportingplayground, home to some of the best golf coursesand a vareity of sporting activities.”

The world class golf courses along the Murray will testyour skills and abilities in all conditions. Some of thecourse are very challenging. You’ll find some of the bestgolfing in Australia right here. Whether you’ve got a greathandicap or are merely a social player there’s a series ofcourses for you. Playing along the Murray will also connectyou with Australia’s iconic Murray River landscapes. Fromthe mountains, to the outback and ocean.

There are a range of courses from small clubs toChampionship designed resorts to enjoy.

Visit MurrayRiver.com.au/golfing for a great Australiangolfing experience.

DaretonAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Dareton Golf Club, New South Wales

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Michael Hyde Visitor Information Centre at Birds Australia Gluepot Reserve north of Waikerie

Letterboxes near Cal Lal on the Renmark to Wentworth Road, New South Wales Tree of hats near Culperum Station, South Australia

Big sky sunrise between Morgan and Overland Corner

On the fringe of the Australian outback, the Murray and Darling

rivers converge in a semi-arid landscape filled with ancient

stories and a precious natural eco-system. Outstanding!Murray River Outback

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MurthoHeadings Cliffs, Murtho, South AustraliaAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

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Storm clouds at Lock 9, Victoria

Murray’s journey carves through the edge of Australia’s outback in a semi-arid landscape. The river seems so remote, wild and natural. It feels like no human has been before you. The skies are big and stretch forever. The earth is dramatically rich and alive with shifting sands. It can be hot, relentless and contrasting on the edge of the desert. You truly experience the soul of the river not far from the oasis of vibrant communities. The real Australia.

An Outback riverMurray’s journey carves through the edge of Australia’s outback in a semi-arid landscape. The river seems so remote, wild and natural. It feels like no human has been before you. The skies are big and stretch forever. The earth is dramatically rich and alive with shifting sands. It can be hot, relentless and contrasting on the edge of the desert. You truly experience the soul of the river not far from the oasis of vibrant communities. The real Australia.

Chowilla StationAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Bob West from Riverland Leisure Canoe Tours enjoys the serenity of kayakingon a magical sunrise on Murray River at Chowilla Station, South Australia

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Perry Sandhills, Wentworth Inside the old Wentworth Gaol

Calperum Station, Renmark Pike Creek Solar Farm

Perry Sandhills, Wentworth

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Between Mildura and Renmark you’ll encounter Cullulleraine. A very small, yetthriving community in the Millewa district that borders the Mallee country.

Prior to European settlement, Lake Cullulleraine was a natural depression that formedan ephemeral wetland, which only filled when there was a significant flood in theMurray River. The seasonal fluctuations in water maintained the health of vegetationand attracted wildlife that provided ample food source for the Latji Latji tribe whichinhabited the area. There is evidence of past Aboriginal occupation in the area in theform of shell middens (cooking mounds), scarred trees closer to the river, camp sitesand implements.

Cullulleraine formed a part of large sheep stations along the Murray River until itassumed importance as a residential centre. A.G. Lawson was sent by S.R. & W.S.C. tosurvey and open up the Millewa via a channel to each farm. The water was pumpedfrom the Murray River, above Lock 9, through a wide channel into the natural lake and

then through a channel scheme embracing about 1,600 kilometres of ditching.These channels operated until 1974, when the electric pumps and the pipelinewere switched on.

During the 1920s many workers were involved in building the infrastructure tostore and transfer water, and clearing the Millewa for farming. After many farmshad been abandoned during the 1930s and 40s because of drought, erosion andrabbit plagues, the Government restructured the farms to a more viable size in1948. In 1989 much of the Millewa grazing land was taken up by the Governmentto form the very large Murray Sunset National Park.

The Millewa farming area continues however there are now fewer than 100 (nowlarge) farms with a decline in population. In the mid 1990s irrigation horticultureblossomed and tourism, outdoor education and recreation have also become partof Lake Cullulleraine.

CullulleraineChanging face ofL A K E

CullulleraineAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

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Main channel linking the Murray River to Lake Cullulleraine Serene and still Lake Cullulleraine at sunrise

Beautiful skyscapes over the Lake Cullulleraine Drowned trees stand like statues surrounded by beautiful colour at sunrise

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Kings Billabong, Mildura

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Australian Pelicansmagic in flight.Pelicanus conspicillatus : One of Australia’s best-known and easily recognised birds along the Murray River. The Australian Pelican grows to a length of 190cm and has a wingspan of 250cm.

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Hotel Australia, Corowa, opened in 1893 The Bridge Hotel, Echuca. Built by Echuca’s founder Henry Hopwood in 1859

The Victoria Hotel, Rutherglen, established in 1868Tintaldra Hotel, Tintaldra, built in 1870

Great AussiePubs

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Overland CornerAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

The historic Overland Corner Hotel was built in 1859 by the Brand Brothers for pioneer pastoralist James Chambers ofCogdogla Station, to cater for the overland drovers and provide a staging point for the coach route from New South Walesto Adelaide. The hotel is constructed of local fossilised limestone 1.5m thick and is the oldest building in the Riverland. It was delicensed in 1898 but continued as a general store and post office for many years and was relicenced in 1987.

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Sheep &Wool Wool press near Tocumwal

Sheep sales, Swan Hill

Morgan Museum wool display

Historic Mungo Woolshed. Constructed in 1869

heritageThe river’s long and proud heritage

Morgan Museum wool display

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ChowillaAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Chowilla Station shearing shed. This historic shearing shed on the banks of the Murray is over 140 years old.Paddle steamers lined up at the river banks and loaded Chowilla’s quality wool bales ready for local andinternational markets from the 1870s until 1942. The last main shearing at the shed was in 1967 as the followingyear a new shed was commissioned in a central location on the Station.

Tom Roberts painting Shearing the Rams was modelled at

Brocklesby Station north of Howlong in 1890

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Federation Museum, Corowa Tailem Town, Tailem Bend

Loxton Pioneer Village Mallee Tourist and Heritage Centre, Pinnaroo

Pioneer Museums

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Swan HillAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

The Swan Hill Pioneer Settlement is on the banks of Little Murray River. Transport yourself back into a typical 1920s Mallee street.You’ll be surrounded by the sounds of a blend of Pianola with the horse’s hooves and joy of visitors riding free horse, cart andvintage cars. Cruise aboard the PS Pyap (1896) for a great pioneer experience. The Murray Mallee region has a diverse range ofpioneer museums and villages to enjoy and experience. Great fun for everyone as you enjoy the Murray Mallee’s pioneering past.

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Riverland Biosphere backwater dinghy expeditions. The interestingmaze of anabranches and backwaters of the Murray River aroundRenmark are unique and accessible by expeditions with Renmark RiverCruises. The wetlands are rated as one of the top 5 in the world.

Fishing in the Upper Murray near Corryong

Enjoying a speed boat ride, Mildura

Great fun on a biscuit, Bowhill

fun on the river

MorganAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Wakeboarding at Pelican Point near Morgan

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Murray Cod (Maccullochella peelii peelii) isAustralia’s largest freshwater fish found inthe Murray River and the Murray-Darling Basin

system. They are known to grow to a weight of morethan 100kg and a length of 180cm.

The Murray Cod are territorial. They are remarkablyadaptive in the diversity of their habitats. Their habitatvaries greatly, from quite small clear, rocky, uplandstreams on the upper western slopes of the GreatDividing Range to large, meandering, slow-flowing,often silty rivers in the alluvial lowland reaches of theMurray-Darling Basin.

The Murray Cod is groper like in appearance and has ahuge mouth. Its back is a mottled, olive-green colourand its belly is a silvery white. Edges of all soft fins mayalso be tipped in white. This species makes a facinatingdisplay and is at its best when housed in a large tankwith natural mangrove roots as decoration. The natural

feeding time of the MurrayCod is in the evening.

Murray Cod are bottomfeeders and top predator. Theyhave a varied diet of other fish,spiny freshwater crayfish,yabbies, shrimp, freshwatermussels, frogs, water fowl, smallmammals, tortoises and otherreptiles. Virtually anything within

its realm that moves and is small enoughto fit in its cavernous mouth is food.

The Murray Cod is a legendary fish and isrepresented in practically every pub inSouth-Eastern Australia by photos andmounted examples. Stories abound oftitanic struggles with the almost supernatural fish. Ply an old codger with a fewbeers and you are likely to hear how whenhe was a boy one of the local water holes was inhabited by some gigantic Cod.

When fishing they are strong hard fighters whilst theyare in deep water and as they are pulled toward thesurface they rapidly throw in the towel and, as a result,have become classified by fresh water anglers assluggish, heavy fish and of no sporting value.

Today Murray Cod numbers have been significantlyreduced. Natural stocks have been estimated to beless than 10% of the population prior to Europeansettlement. Unfortunately, Cod have become locallyextinct in many small tributaries in which they onceabounded.

Contrary to popular belief, over fishing has played amassive role in the decline of Murray Cod. Murray Codwere grotesquely over fished by commercial fishermenin the latter half of the nineteenth century. Forinstance, in year 1883, more than 147 tons of MurrayCod were sent to market from Echuca Moama alone.

Murray Cod can live a long time. Specimens can reachages of 30-35 years. The oldest specimen recorded is48 years of age, but they almost certainly reach fargreater ages, most likely as much as 100 years. Thisextreme longevity is a survival strategy for many native

fish and particularly Murray Cod. This enables themto outlast prolonged periods of drought, so as tocapitalise on exceptional conditions for spawningand recruitment when they do occur.

Murray Cod reach sexual maturity at approximately4 to 6 years of age and are about 2 to 3 kg inweight. The species has relatively low fertilitycompared to many other freshwater fish. Egg countsare approximately 90,000 for females around 22kg.

Murray Cod, although arising from a marineancestor like most freshwater fish, are nonethelessan ancient species. Fossils of fish anatomicallyidentical to modern Murray Cod have beenunearthed in New South Wales from strata dating to26 million years ago. However, it is possible thespecies is as old as the Murray-Darling Basin,approximately 65 million years.

Prior to European colonisation Aboriginal peoplewere able to utilise the species. It was the largest,most abundant and most beautiful of the native fishspecies. The Murray Cod is reflected in Aboriginaldreamtime as a central animal in their mythology.

Source: Native Fish Victoria, www.nativefish.asn.au

Big Murray Cod at Swan Hill

105 pound (47kg)Murray Cod, Swan Reach, 1900s

Australia’s Great Murray Cod

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In the Dreaming, Ngurunderi travelled down the Murray River in a bark canoe,in search of his two wives who had run away from him. At that time the river wasonly a small stream, below the junction with the Darling River.

A giant cod fish (Ponde) swam ahead of the Ngurunderi, widening the river withsweeps of its tail. Ngurunderi chased the fish, trying to spear it from his canoe. Near Murray Bridge he threw a spear, but missed and was changed into Long Island(Lenteilin). At Tailem Bend (Tagalang) he threw another; the giant fish surged aheadand created a long straight stretch in the river.

At last, with the help of Nepele (the brother of Ngurunderi’s wives), Ponde wasspeared after it had left the Murray River and had swum into Lake Alexandrina.Ngurunderi divided the fish with his stone knife and created a new species of fishfrom each piece.

Meanwhile, Ngurunderi’s 2 wives (the sisters of Nepele) had made camp. On theircampfire they were cooking bony bream, a fish forbidden to the Ngarrindjeri women.Ngurunderi smelt the fish cooking and knew his wives were close. He abandoned hiscamp, and came after them. His huts became 2 hills and his bark canoe became theMilky Way.

Hearing Ngurunderi coming, his wives just had time to build a raft of reeds andgrass-trees and to escape across Lake Albert. On the other side their raft turned backinto the reds and grass-trees. The women hurried south.

Ngurunderi followed his wives as far south as Kingston. Here he met a great sourcer,Parampari. The 2 men fought, using weapons and magic powers, until eventuallyNgurunderi won. He burnt Parampari's body in a huge fire, symbolised by graniteboulders today, and turned north along the Coorong beach. Here he camped severaltimes, digging soaks in the sand for fresh water, and fishing in the Coorong lagoon.

Ngurunderi made his way across the Murray Mouth and along the Encounter Baycoast towards Victor Harbor. He made a fishing ground at Middleton by throwing ahuge tree into the sea to make a seaweed bed. Here he hunted and killed a seal; itsdying gasps can still be heard among the rocks. At Port Elliot he camped and fished

again, without seeing a sign of his wives. He became angry and threw his spear intothe sea at Victor Habour, creating the islands there.

Finally, after resting in a giant granite shade-shelter on Granite Island (Kaike),Ngurunderi heard his wives laughing and playing in the water near King's Beach. Hehurled his club to the ground, creating the Bluff (Longkuwar), and strode after them.

His wives fled along the beach in terror until they reached Cape Jervis. At this time,Kangaroo Island was still connected to the mainland, and the two women began tohurry across to it. Ngurunderi had arrived at Cape Jervis though, and seeing his wives still fleeing from him, he called out in a voice of thunder for the waters to rise.The women were swept from their path by huge waves and were soon drowned. Theybecame the rocky Pages Islands.

Ngurunderi knew that it was time for him to enter the spirit world. He crossed toKangaroo Island and travelled to its western end. After first throwing his spears intothe sea, he dived in, before rising to become a star in the Milky Way.

Ponde - the Ngurunderi Dreaming

Sign in Mannum - Jacob Stengle

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MilduraAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Fruit packing crates in Dareton, New South Wales

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Misting morning at Lock 9 on the willows, Victoria

Foggy Swan Reach morning

Fog rolling across the Murray near Big BendMist & Fog

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Sunset, Sunrise & Mist

Piggy FlatAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Sunrise on a foggy Murray River morning at Teal Flat, South Australia

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Murray River Red GumsMurray River Red GumsThe river red gum Eucalyptus camaldulensis is the most widely distributed

eucalyptus species in Australia growing along watercourses. It lines the MurrayRiver for most of its length. The trees are usually 20–35m high with some over

45m, with a diameter of 1–3m. They can live up to 700 years or more.

The canopy is dark green and the forest floor usually lacks undergrowth. The trunk isvaricoloured, which includes patches of leaden grey bark above an area of brown-black.The branches are often twisted and the root system is often partly exposed.

It is the association with the water that makes the tree interesting. It needs periods ofpartial flooding where its trunk may be inundated for months. Seeds are washed to highground during a flood and germinate to take root and grow before the next floodsubmerges the new tree.

Old rotten limb hollows, or broken branches, provide nesting hollows for galahs,sulphur-crested cockatoos, gang-gang cockatoos, cockatiels and various parrots.

The timber is a reddish colour with a strong interlocking grain. It is hard and durable,and is renowned for its slow-rotting character. The hard, heavy red gum providesfoundations for buildings, and timber for railway sleepers, wharves and fences. Itpolishes beautifully and sometimes turns well.

Flowering is usually in summer. The flowers are white to pale cream. Honey producedhas a clear golden colour, is mild and is of good flavour.

The Aboriginals used the tree for its medicinal properties. A handful of young leaves,crushed and then boiled in water, was used as a linament that was rubbed in for chest orjoint pain, particularly for general aches and flu symptoms. Young leaves were alsoheated in a pit over hot coals, and the vapours were inhaled, which helped with thetreatment of general sickness.

A dangerous feature of river red gums is that they drop their limbs without warning.Always be cautious when camping or parking under trees.

Beautiful patterns or river red gums, Barmah

Echuca

Drowned river red gums in Lake Bonney, Barmera Sunrise at the Murray River National Park

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BlanchetownAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

The huge sandstone cliffs at Blanchetown give you an amputheatre to enjoy. Murray Riverred gums overlook the river like the wise elder with their sheer strength and size

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Fruit signs at Berri

Roadside stall, Mildura

Fresh produce at Glossop

Natural and organic at Cadell

Fresh & Local

Melbourne

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BoundaryBend

Adelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

The Murray Valley is the fruit bowl of Australia. A valley of abundant fruit and vegetables to enjoy. A slow food feast.There are so many road side stalls to enjoy the flavours of the river region. To protect the riches of the region there arefruit fly inspection checkpoints. Due to stringent regulations you can’t take fruit and vegetables across state borders orinto the fruit fly free zone. Visit www.fruitfly.net.au for more information when travelling the Murray River region.

NO FRUITNO VEGNO FINE

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Wake reflecting the clouds from the Lyrup ferry Mirrored image of sandstone cliffs at Cadell

Wake from a houseboat on sunset at Mildura Reflections on the Murray near Mannum

Hume Reservoir

Adelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Murray flowing around bridge near Hume Reservoir

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YarrumWhen you look closer you’ll experience the colours ofan artist’s palette. Deep blues, earthy ochres and thegolden yellows. Pure white like sprinkled diamonds andrich, powerful blacks like a moonless night.

At the perfect time it reflects the wide and vast blueskies that are suspended above while it carves throughour harsh and precious semi-arid Australian landscape.

Rarely found anywhere in the world, the long, slowwaters give us a precious and rare gift to appreciate,value and respect.

Yarrum is a reflection of the Murray. A series of imagesfocused on reflecting the river’s environment.

Looking past the natural beauty of the Murray, theseimages aim to highlight a unique view of this preciousriver...another dimension.

Yarrum is a series of reflective images. They aim toreveal a world of colour, beauty, texture, diversity,contrast and mystery and aim to provide you with amoment to be with the Murray’s spirit.

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Tailem Bend shimmers on Murray’s waters

Original Mildura bridge (1923-1927) restored by the Mildura Dockside Marina.It was dismantled in 1986. The ironwork is from Motherwell, Scotland, whichalso produced iron for the original Queen Mary and the Titanic.

PS Marion (1897) moored at Mannum Dock Museum of River History

Cadell Cliffs floodlit at night

Night skies full of diamonds

Echuca Moama

Adelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

PS Alexander Arbuthnot in the moonlight at Port of Echuca, Victoria

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Mallee sunrise, Ouyen, Victoria

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OuyenAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

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www.DiscoverMallee.com.au

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UnderboolAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Pink Lakes of the Murray Sunset National Park near Underbool, Victoria. The Pink Lakes are named because of their colourduring late summer. A red pigment, carotene, is secreted from the alga Dunaliella salina. This colour is best seen early or latein the day or when it is cloudy. The lakes evaporate over summer leaving concentrated salt crusts over black mud. Salt wascommercially harvested between 1916 and 1975 in the region and railed back to Underbool for export.

112

The ladies of the CWA meet at the WalpeupMemorial Hall to prepare Christmas gifts.

Distance sign at Hattah, Victoria

In this land of sunshine, big skies and richcharacter you’ll discover a whole new world. It’s not a world you can experience just driving

through; it’s a world you need to stop for, look atand consider.

In this seemingly vast landscape, the richness is inthe smallest details such as the unique wildflowersand the rare and shy Mallee Fowl. The passionateand welcoming communities and rich Malleeheritage. The Mallee seems to have the fluffiestclouds and on a clear night there’s a trillion starssprinkled across the sky.

There is a very proud and rich heritage to explore.Visit the Mallee Heritage Museum in Pinnaroo for aninsight into the challenges of early life in the Mallee,in South Australia and Victoria. The tough pioneers

and communities determination to succeed throughpersistent droughts and tough times highlights theirresilience. Take a local walk around Lameroo tounderstand the importance of the railways in theregion and see one of Australia’s few remainingLetterpress Printing museum’s still in operation at Pinnaroo.

Visit some of the great national and conservationparks in the region like the Murray Sunset NationalPark or the Big Desert Wilderness Park and NgarkatConservation Park in South Australia for someunique 2WD, 4WD or bush walk experiences.

The 100% genuine hospitality of the people andcommunity are as Aussie as you’ll get. Stop for ahearty lunch in a real country pub or Devonshire Tea.Try one of the best bakeries in Australia at Pinnarooor the famous Vanilla Slice at Ouyen or grab a picniclunch and head out to a local park. The choice isyours. The Mallee is a wonderful experience andthere’s nothing like it anywhere in the world.

Rob Wilson working on a Linotypemachine.

the story of

Mallee Wooden M a l l e etheRob Wilson O.A.M. and volunteers at theMallee Tourist and Heritage Centre inPinnaroo have created a wonderful place toexplore the craft of letterpress printing.

Rob started in the printing industry as aletterpress apprentice in Melbourne in 1936.He moved to Pinnaroo in 1953 as editor ofthe Pinnaroo Border Times.

In this fascinating museum, Rob keeps thevanishing art of letterpress printing and hotmetal alive. I am also a compositor by trade(type-setting with hot metal - now pre-press)and passionate about printing. Rob showedme their collection of original, hand-carvedwooden fonts and trays. Just beautiful.

Supported by the Southern Mallee DistrictCouncil and Design Train, we digitised thehistoric unique fonts and created a fontcalled Mallee Wooden. We’ve used this fontthrough the book and given identity to theMallee region through typography.

Pinnaroo, South Australia has one ofAustralia’s last active letterpress printingmuseums at the Mallee Tourist and HeritageCentre. Visit malleebound.com.au anddownload your free Mallee Wooden font.

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Canola crop growing on the outskirts of Pinnaroo, South Australia

Dry, stark and vivid salt pans on sunrise, Victoria

Normally dark brown moss comes to life after rain in the Mallee, South Australia

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Murray Sunset National ParkMurray Sunset National Park is Victoria’s second largest national park and contains 4designated wilderness zones. The park offers vast open spaces, isolation, abundantwildlife and colourful spring wildflowers. Environments range from Mallee covereddunes and saltbush flats, to billabongs and floodplains near the Murray River tograsslands and native pine woodlands. To take in breathtaking sunsets and impossiblystarry nights don’t limit your visit to a day trip – longer stays are recommended andwell-rewarded.

Big Desert Wilderness Park & Ngarkat Conservation ParkThese parks are the 2 biggest of 5 continuous reserves, which together, form thelargest remnant of uncleared native vegetation in the agricultural areas of south-eastern Australia. One of the most remote and least disturbed areas in Victoria,the Big Desert Wilderness Park, protects 142,300 hectares of the Mallee.

The Big Desert and Ngarkat are home to a wide variety of birds, reptiles andmammals. They offer visitors an opportunity to experience true wilderness – thislandscape has remained unaffected by human beings and provides a challenge forthe experienced hiker. All parks offer extensive 4WD options with sandy tracks andgreat campgrounds to enjoy.

ParksM A L L E E

Big Desert Wilderness Park

Pink Lakes, Murray Sunset National Park

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Kow Plains Homestead

Structures like Kow Plains Homestead areextremely rare in the Mallee. TheHomestead was originally built as a head

station for Kow Plains and the adjoining runsowned by Dugald Macpherson and WilliamMacdonald in the 1870s. There was a complexof buildings in Cowangie, Victoria, of which onlythe homestead is substantially intact.

These are of log panel construction using thecallitris pine which grows in the area, andbecause of the distance from settled districtsfew manufactured materials were used otherthan nails, ironmongery, glass and door andwindow joinery.

The house is typical of a number in the Malleearea, skillfully built probably by one or moretravelling artisans. All or nearly all others are

believed to have collapsed, been destroyed ormoved. It is therefore one of the very fewremaining authentic specimens of this type, andan evocative remnant of settlement underextreme conditions, and of architecturalsignificance as a rare surviving specimen of a 19thcentury construction type particularly adapted tolocal conditions and materials.

The significance of Kow Plains was recognizedwhen it was heritage listed in 1989 and since thenthe importance of its restoration has receivedwide spread support. In September, 2002 KowPlains received an honourable mention in theUNESCO Asian Pacific Heritage awards whichfurther confirmed the significance of Kow Plains.

CowangieThe township of Cowangie is a reminder andan example of the early years of settlement ina remote Mallee town, where grain growingwas the main source of income.

Cowangie in the early years of settlement was known as Copi (after the white powdery substance found there), Cow Plains then Kow Plains. The Lands Department finally stepped in and called the town Cowangie.

The first buildings appeared along the main street, Dayman Street,in 1912. During the first years of settlement the homestead was the focal point for meetings, towngatherings and church services.

PlainsK O W & C O WA N G I E

Bush Nurse Cottage 1918-1923, Cowangie

Kow Plains Homestead

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The Mallee Fowl is a large distinctive, shy ground-dwelling bird about the size of a small turkey. It has strong powerful legs, short bill and a

flattish head. Predominantly grey in colour it has black,brown and white patterned back and wings. It is themaster of camouflage. When standing motionless indappled shadows it is almost impossible to spot.

It is the male bird’s role to construct and tend the nest-mound. The female lays the eggs and then departs; nofurther role is taken. Male birds spend about 11months per year maintaining the mound which can beup to 1 metre high and 5 metres in diameter.

AutumnThe bird opens a depression about 300cm wide by 90cmdeep. The soil is tossed to the edge to a height of about45cm.

June–AugustOrganic material is collected (leaves, bark, twigs) and piled into the depression. Work then stops until sufficientrain has fallen to thoroughly soak the organic material.Once enough rain has fallen the material is covered by alayer of sand, sometimes up to a metre thick, and thematerial underneath begins to decompose.

Mid–late AugustThe male continually tests the mound for temperature bypoking his bill into it. The decomposing material needs toreach temperatures of between 26°–30° before egg-layingcommences.

Late SeptemberThe female signals by a low hunched approach andcontinuous crooning. The male opens the egg chamberwhich may take between 20–120 minutes. Once the egg is laid the chamber is covered. All eggs are laid at separate intervals sometimes over a period of 3 months.The incubation is by fermentation of organic material andsolar power. Incubation takes between 7–9 weeks.

November–DecemberThe male bird adds or removes soil from the mound tomaintain the constant incubating temperature.

In December the chicks hatch. Birds are fully feathered at hatching and struggle to the surface of the moundunaided. They immediately leave the mound and seekshelter in the mallee scrub. Within 2–3 hours they can runswiftly and feed. There is no contact with either parent bird.

FowlM A L L E E

Mallee Fowl nest 5 metres wideMallee Fowl nest 5 metres wide

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One of the surprising things in theMallee are the stunning array of wildflowers in spring. Carpets of colours

that will surprise and delight you. But youneed to get off the beaten track andexplore the parks to see this beauty.Through areas of the Mallee wherebushfires have raged you can see astunning range of yellow commoneverlasting dotted with the White Staindaisies and the deeper yellow to Orangeimmortals and Blue Bells.

In late spring, areas are covered with brightyellow Podolepis, Pink Mulla Mullas, thebright blue Halgania cyanea and a numberof small bushes of Eremophilla crassifoliawhich were covered with small mauveflowers. The remains of some smallgreenhood orchids can also be found.

In other regions you’ll see purple to pinkRosemary and velvet Dampiera, pinkFringed myrtle, Holly and LavenderGrevillia. The Desert Grevillia with its longcream spikes of flowers come out in bloom.

You’ll also find flowering trees, shrubs andclimbers such as Pittosporum phylliroeoides(Wild Apricot), Billardiera cymosa (SweetAppleberry), Sticky Goodenia and thecolour seed capsules of the narrow leafhop. Keep an eye out for Myporumplatycarpum (Sugarwood) which will be amass of little white flowers.

From late July onwards you will see manyother species including a large array ofAcacias, Wattles; Dodonoea, Hop Bush;Cassias, Dampieras; Olearias Daisy Bushes;Halganias; Quandongs and many otherspecies including orchids.

Orchids could be referred to as the hiddengems of the Mallee. They are notconspicuous amongst the more colourfulshrubs. The orchids are often found in themost unlikely places, from the sandiest soilon hill tops to rocky and heavy clay soils.They all have their own special beauty fromthe mauve Sun Orchids to the delicateMallee Midge orchids.

Then there is the element of intrigue whenthe ghostly Daddy Longlegs and long tubularleaf of the Leek Orchids are viewed.September and October are the monthswhen most orchids in this region flower, butsome species do flower during June/July andNovember/December.

Orchids grow annually from an undergroundtuber. Leaves are usually singular linear or abasal rosette of leaves. Some orchids onlyflower after fire the previous summer; the TallLeek Orchid and the Red Beak Orchid are 2of these. On the whole orchids appear toflower well after fire. Orchids growparticularly well after summer rain.

When you’re travelling through the Malleeconsider it’s the small things that make theMallee a wonderful place to experience andthe range of flora through the region is bothspectacular and highly unique.

WildflowersM A L L E E

Azure DaisyOlearia rudis

Green-comb Spider-orchidCaladenia dilata

Velvet BushLasiopetalum behrii

Heath Rice-flowerPimelea microcephala

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The Murray River meanders 2756km from the mountains to the outback then to the ocean and is Australia’s greatest river journey. Steeped in adventure,

history and stories, the Murray is an Australian icon. One river flows through 5 distinct landscapes, across 3 states.

■ From the MountainsKhancoban/Corryong to Corowa/Wahgunyah

■ Steep Banks & River Gums ■ Mallee & OutbackYarrawonga/Mulwala to Swan Hill Robinvale/Euston to Loxton

■ Golden Limestone Cliffs ■ Plains, Lakes & MouthKingston-On-Murray to Mannum Murray Bridge to Goolwa

The Discover Murray River Trail allows experience seekers toappreciate the river’s journey in sections that define the

different landscapes our magnificent river windsthrough. By taking your time you will enjoy all that

the Murray region has to offer andexperience breathtaking and authentic

Australian scenery second to none.

A classic Australianexperience to enjoy!

As the Murray heads west sensational golden cliffswill amaze any traveller and leave them looking inamazement. There are great lookouts to see thescale and size of the Murray system. At the historictown of Morgan the Murray begins to head south,

it passes through Blanchetown and Swan Reach on its waytoward Mannum. The Murray is truly spectacular as it winds past aseries of fabulous cliffs full of colours. At Ngaut Ngaut ConservationPark near Nildottie there is a peephole into the past with the cliffsoffering a showcase of fossils millions of years old and graphicevidence of indigenous habitation going back thousands of years.

The Murray nears the end of its journey with plains approaching Murray Bridge, Tailem Bend to Wellington where it enters Lake Alexandrinaconnected with Lake Albert. The last town on theMurray is Goolwa near the mouth of the Murray.This can be easily viewed from Hindmarsh Island.

Not far from Goolwa are the beaches ofEncounter Bay and the Southern

Ocean. South-east of Wellington is the Coorong. Thisnational park area is an internationally important bird

habitat with migratory birds visiting from as faras Siberia and China and is a long skinnywaterway cut off from the ocean by thesand dunes of the Younghusband Peninsula.

Towns & landscapes of the Murray

Golden Limestone Cliffs

Plains, Lakes & Mouth

MelbourneAdelaideCanberra

SydneyCorryong

Albury WodongaHowlong

CorowaRutherglen

Yarrawonga MulwalaCobram Barooga

TocumwalNumurkah

Echuca MoamaBarham Koondrook

KerangSwan Hill

Robinvale EustonOuyen (Mallee)

Pinnaroo (Mallee)Mildura

WentworthRenmark

BerriLoxton

Barmera

Murray BridgeTailem Bend

GoolwaMeningie

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324 911 345 552 126 -

322 886 374 582 155 29 -

303 867 401 608 176 56 26 -

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340 818 437 644 215 93 69 50 46 -

310 782 474 682 253 131 106 87 83 38 -

275 788 493 701 268 150 125 106 102 57 21 -

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240 670 583 790 358 240 215 196 192 147 111 120 79 -

302 597 669 876 444 325 301 282 278 235 196 206 164 88 -

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570 391 826 1037 757 636 617 598 594 546 510 522 478 401 328 304 245 112 130 279 32 -

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Web: www.MurrayRiver.com.au ■ Mobile: m.MurrayRiver.com.au119

The mountainous Corryong region providesthe tributaries from the Snowy Mountains andfrom a small unassuming river the Murraygrows to enter the Hume Reservoir upstreamof Albury-Wodonga. Positioned in a fertilevalley rich in farming and classic mountainscenes, Albury-Wodonga straddles theVictoria, New South Wales border and is the

home of the Hume Highway, Australia’s largesthighway. From Albury-Wodonga the snowfields areeasily reached for skiing or sightseeing. Travel toRutherglen offering a gourmet’s delight of fine wine,food and cheese. Corowa is recognised as the thebirthplace of Australia’s Federation in 1901.

Lake Mulwala and Yarrawonga reveal the first of the weirs after the Hume.The region offers wonderful sandy beaches. The Murray’s landscape beginsto take a different shape with the riverbanks being steeper and magnificentforests of old red gums. The Barmah State Park and Forest boasts thelargest river red gum forest in Victoria. Echuca’s Murray section has tight river bendsand crowding gums. Board one of the operating paddle steamers or explore nearby towns,magnificent red gum forests, bird rich wetlands and fauna parks. North-west along the Murray

Valley Highway in Victoria is irrigated country finally getting to Swan Hill that offers a strongculture, wonderful food and excellent community.

The heart of the Mallee along theMurray from Swan Hill, Mildura andRenmark were originally established asirrigation districts in the late 1800s.Nowadays many different crops aregrown around the region. Explore theWorld Heritage Willandra Lakes andMungo National Park. The Darlingand Murray Rivers converge atWentworth. Between Wentworthand Renmark is the outback Murray.The Riverland region is the largest

producer of grapes in South Australia. Renmark is alsopart of the Bookmark Biosphere, an area recognised internationally fornatural, social and cultural sustainable value. There are some amazingcliff formations through the region.

From the Mountains

Steep Banks & River Gums

Outback & Mallee

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Located in the picturesque foothills of the SnowyMountains and at the birthplace of the mighty

Murray River, the Upper Murray has something foreveryone. Corryong, situated on the Murray ValleyHighway, is the largest township within Towong Shirewith a population of approximately 1,200 people.

The township offers visitors a variety of shopping,accommodation, eateries, self drive tours and sportingfacilities. The valley town is surrounded in all directionsby hills covered with eucalyptus and pine forests.

It is believed that the area was originally occupied bythe Pallanganmiddang Aboriginals and the name‘cooyong’ derives from the Aboriginal term meaning‘bandicoot’.

The first cattle station here was established inCorryong in 1838. Nearby Walwa is home of Australia'sfirst breed of beef cattle, the Murray Grey. ExplorerPaul Edmund Strzelecki passed through the area on hisway to Gippsland in 1840. The first gold was reputedlyfound in the Corryong area in 1856, on the Victorianside of the Jingellic pastoral run, 25km north-west ofCorryong.

The townsite was surveyed in 1879 with land salesproceeding in 1882, the year the Court House Hotelbecame the town's first drinking establishment.

Undoubtedly the Corryong is best know for the “Manfrom Snowy River”. Explore the Man from Snowy RiverMuseum, visit the grave of Jack Riley - and participatein an annual celebration of this Australian legend at theMan from Snowy River Bush Festival. A visit to the Manfrom Snowy River Museum in Corryong should

definitely be included on your itinerary. The Museumfeatures the history of Jack Riley.

Jack was the head stockman at Tom Groggin Stationwhen he was visited by AB “Banjo” Paterson whoshortly thereafter penned the now famous poem “TheMan from Snowy River” (1890) (see page 170). JackRiley is buried in the Corryong Cemetery. The Museumalso houses a unique collection of ski memorabilia andother history.

Corryong is the centre piece of the magnificent regionknown as the Upper Murray. Located just 11km fromthe Murray River and in the foothills of the AustralianAlps, Corryong and district has something foreveryone. Its location makes it the Victorian gateway to the New South Wales snowfields, including theThredbo ski village, and the Snowy Mountains Scheme.

There is an abundance of local natural attractionsincluding Burrowa-Pine Mountain National Park. Thisawesome granite monolith is 1.5 times larger thanUluru and has breathtaking views from its summitshould you choose to walk.

Cudgewa Bluff Falls is also within the Burrowa-PineMountain National Park and is one of the area’s bestkept secrets. Parking is only 100m from the fallsthemselves.

Take a drive to Embery’s Lookout on top of MtMittamatite and take in the view of Corryong with themagnificent Australian Alps as your backdrop. MtLawson State Park is only a short drive away. VisitAvondale Gardens and while in the area explore thetrestle bridges.

Naturally the regions offers all forms of experiencessuch as 4 wheel driving, fishing and canoeing. Givewhite water rafting a try.

Touring throughout the Upper Murray providesunlimited opportunities to explore its local townshipsand history. Visit historic Tintaldra, Walwa, Towong andJingellic along the river. Stop for the manyphotographic opportunities at lookouts along the way.Tour Cudgewa, Nariel and Thowgla and thepicturesque Biggara Valley. Pack a picnic and find apleasant location along our many waterways.

The historic town of Towong is located just north-eastof Corryong. The turf club was established in 1871 andthe picturesque Towong Racecourse has the state’soldest grandstand and with century old elm trees. Anold wooden bridge crosses the Murray at Towong.

Khancoban is a beautifully landscaped town of trees

and parks featuring a superb rose garden. Originally a

squatters outstation known as Swampy Plains,

downstream from the present township, was

established in the early 1840s.

The township overlooks Khancoban Lake and is the

western gateway to the Kosciusko National Park and

the Snowy Mountains snowfields. Snowy Hydro’s

Murray One Power Station is located just 10km above

Khancoban on the Alpine Way. The Visitors Centre

provides an ideal opportunity to learn more about

Snowy Hydro via its “hands-on” models and exhibits.

CorryongHome to the ‘Man from Snowy River’

FROM THE MOUNTAINS - VICTORIA

www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Corryong Towns close by: Towong, Tallangatta, Tintaldra, Jingellic, Bowna, Mitta Mitta, Khancoban, Thredbo, Beechworth

Corryong

Adelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Murray River at near Corryong at Towong

121

CORRYONG

Man from Snowy Mountain Museum

Murray’s rushing waters near Tom Groggin

Bridge crossing the Murray at Towong

Australian Alps on sunrise

Georges Creek Lookout, Mt Granya

Murray’s rushing waters near Tom Groggin

At Albury Wodonga, the Hume Highway -Australia's busiest national transport corridor -

crosses the Murray. For many years, Albury Wodongahas been singled out by travellers to break theirjourney overland from Melbourne to Sydney. In fact,Hamilton Hume and William Hovell passed through thearea in 1824 and the famous 'Hovell Tree', in whichHovell carved his initials, still stands on the banks ofthe Murray River at Albury.

Albury is thought to have been named by AssistantSurveyor General, Thomas Townsend in the early1800s. Townsend originally named the settlement'Bungambrawartha' but the landscape surrounding thearea so reminded him of the English village of Albury,that the name was altered.

Similarly, Wodonga was originally called ‘Belvoir’ by theHuon family after the Earl of Belvoir. When surveyingthe area, Townsend named the road between the 2settlements ‘Woodonga’, after a Koori plant found innearby lagoons. However, over time, Belvoir becameknown as ‘Wodonga’.

Magnificent parklands and reserves surround AlburyWodonga. The century old, award winning BotanicGardens at the top end of Albury's main street arebeautifully manicured and cared for and well worth avisit. In summertime, the Murray parklands offer relieffrom balmy days.

Cool off in any one of the picturesque swimming holes,at Noreuil Park, Mungabareena Reserve or where thelocals all head, down past the water works alongBorella Road. Pack a picnic and a cool drink and relaxamongst the river gums.

Mungabareena is also home to an old Aboriginaltradition of the meeting of the 7 Koori tribes of thedistrict. This was a 'mini-parliament' where inter-triballaw was discussed in a peaceful manner, marriageswere performed and celebrated. The tribes would thentravel up the Kiewa Valley to the alpine areas to feaston the nutritious Bogong Moth for the summermonths. The annual ‘Mungabareena Ngan-GirraFestival’ (‘gathering’ at Mungabareena) celebrates andcommemorates this wonderful tradition eachNovember.

In Albury you’ll find the unique blend of cosmopolitancity lifestyle and old-fashioned country hospitality. Themodern city and the historical village sit comfortablytogether in a beautiful landscape of rich river plainsand rugged snow-capped mountains. The past and thepresent are both here, alive and available. Art andadventure, gourmet cuisine and cottage gardens,solitude and shopping, vintage wines and modernsculpture, European sophistication and pioneerpracticality are everywhere.

The choice of day trips from Albury Wodonga isextensive. In winter, it is even possible to slip up to theski slopes and be back in plenty of time for dinner.Other alternatives include a day in the RutherglenWine Region sampling their robust reds and famousfortifieds; a tour of the significant Ned Kelly sites atBeechworth, Glenrowan and Jerilderie; or a road triparound the quirky historic villages that make up theGreater Hume Shire to the north.

Discover Lake Hume, which holds 6 times as muchwater as Sydney Harbour. Work began on the Hume

Dam in 1919 at the site of the junction of the Murrayand Mitta Rivers and completed in 1936. The HumeDam was the Commonwealth Government's mostambitious public project at the time and took 17 yearsto build. It was built using horse power, steam enginesand manual labour and was constructed to ensurewater supplies for irrigation, conservation andregulation downstream.

Two townships were immersed under water when thedam was expanded in 1956. Tallangatta was relocatedto its present day site south-east of Albury-Wodonga,while most of the residents of the tiny township ofBowna moved into Albury.

Lake Hume is a mecca for water lovers providing a yearround playground. There are many picnic and campingsites on the shores of the Lake and countless sandybeaches to sunbath and ski off. Fishing is also a popularpastime, as is sailing, jet skiing and wind surfing.

Bonegilla, a stone's throw east of Wodonga, wasAustralia's largest post Second World War migrantreception centre. Over 320,000 new Australians camethrough this camp from 1949 to 1972. Much of this richhistory has been captured in the Bonegilla Collectionat the local Albury Regional Museum and part of theoriginal site, Block 19, has been preserved as amemorial.

Albury Wodonga is the perfect base to explore thewider region offering city standard, country styleaccommodation and services.

Albury & WodongaFirst European sighting of the Murray River

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122 www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Albury Towns close by: Bowna, Tallangatta, Tintaldra, Towong, Jingellic, Mitta Mitta, Hollbrook, Beechworth, Glenrowan

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Sunset near Wonga Wetlands, Albury, New South Wales

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Albury Botanic Gardens

Wodonga’s Ken Raff sculpture

Looking across Albury from Eastern Hill Rotary Lookout

Monument Hill WarMemorial erected 1925

T&G Buildingerected 1935

Rutherglen is blessed with some of the world’srichest wines, deep soul and character, the

powerful Murray, ancient river red gums, idyllic pastoralscenes and history. It has wonderful cuisine and homelymeals, cosy B&Bs and luxury accommodation, greatfestivals and genuine characters.

It is a region where over 150 years of dedication andcommitment have combined with a unique climate,skill, vibrancy and sense of fun to create a wine regionthat is truly full of flavour. It is a gem amongstAustralia’s wine regions. For James Halliday, Australia’spremier wine commentator, it is: “One of the trulygreat wine tourism destinations”.

The name Rutherglen is synonymous with wines tofortify, invigorate, warm, enjoy and, best of all, to leaveyou with a memorable tasting experience. The regionembraces 20 members of The Winemakers ofRutherglen and 3 boutique wineries, each with theirown history and expertise, which collectively canprovide you with a mixed case that will ensure lastingmemories of your visit to this New South Wales –Victoria border wine wonderland.

Many wineries are still run by the descendants of theoriginal families, who have used their traditions andexperience to produce a range of quality red andwhite table wines and fortifieds that rank among thebest in the world. The wineries are open for tastingand sales daily, as well as holding special events duringthe year.

The pinnacle of Rutherglen’s wine elegance isexpressed by the ambience of the All Saints Estatewhich has developed from the original castle built in

1864. There is grandeur too, in The House at Mt Prior,where fine dining is part of the daily wine ritual.

Rutherglen has developed as an important centre forwine-growing in the state. It produces full-bodied dryreds, delicate whites, and sherry, port and muscats ofgreat distinction.

First named Wahgunyah Rush in the 1850s its namewas changed to Rutherglen, so the story goes, by theowner of the Star Hotel, John Wallace, when he metthe challenge from David Glen Hamilton and patrons,that they ‘would name the town Rutherglen after hisbirthplace [in Scotland], if he shouted them drinks’.

Gold was found in the Rutherglen area in July 1860,with the first strike in Rutherglen itself on 9 September,1860 when a shaft was bottomed on gold, nearDrummond Street. But the rush was short-lived. Manyof the miners decided to settle down and took upgrowing vines. The first vines were planted around the1850s and expanded to such an extent that by the1880s the Rutherglen-Wahgunyah area was becomingVictoria’s wine-producing district. The dreaded diseasephylloxera (root aphids) nearly wiped out the industryin the late 1890s.

The region is not just about food and wine. It issteeped in history, its fabric shaped by gold miners,boom, bust, generations of farmers, shopkeepers,sportsmen, churchmen and the mighty Murray. Thereare old mine sites, grand old homesteads, idyllicfarmscapes, classic shopfronts, footy grounds, some ofAustralia's best golf courses and lawn tennis courts,grand old churches and convents, sandy beaches andshady billabongs.

In the town you’ll discover Gold Battery. Constructedin 1908 to crush the gold-bearing quartz and extractgold, the plant was originally powered by steam, thengas and now electricity.

St Stephens Church was dedicated in 1865. It comescomplete with a central turret, topped by a belfry andopen work ‘bell cage’. The stainless steel spire, anexact replica of the earlier wooden one, was installedin 1984. The original ‘Victoria’ Hotel was constructed in Drummond Street. It is said that Ned Kelly, thebushranger, was a regular visitor when he worked forG.F. Morris at Fairfield vineyard. In 1863 The Victoriamoved to its present site. The present hotel was builtin the 1890s.

Poachers Paradise, formerly The Rutherglen Hotel,(1860) was built as the ‘Golden Ball’. At that time ithoused the booking office of the Bevan Coach Line(Cobb & Co) which serviced the Wahgunyah toMelbourne run. The building, Clydesdale Cellars, onthe corner of Drummond and Main streets wasconstructed in 1886 by David Hamilton as one of thefirst cellars in the district. Oscar Seppelt purchased itin 1915.

Nearby Lake Moodemere is a natural lake that wasreserved in 1889 as a preserve for wildlife. It is home to a large variety of birdlife and wildlife, ranging fromAustralian pelicans, black swans, parrots andcockatoos. It is the also base for the Moodemere-Corowa Water Ski Club.

RutherglenRich wine, deep soul and character

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124 www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Rutherglen Towns close by: Beechworth, Glenrowan, Wangaratta, Chiltern

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All Saints Estate (1864) is one of the most spectacular vineyard settings in Australia. The entrance is lined by 120 year old elm trees that change beautifully with the seasons.

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RUTHERGLENGehrig Winery

(1867) featuringBarnawartha

House

The Victoria Hotel built 1890s

Rutherglen Wine Experienceand Visitor Information Centre

Bintara Brewery, Rutherglen

The classic Australian country towns of Corowa,Howlong and Wahgunyah straddle the Murray in a

region rich in character, history, food and wine.

It is a region without traffic lights, toll ways and parkingmeters. It is a place of country lanes, idyllic pastoralscenes, ancient river red gums and lush vineyardsstretching to the horizon. It is a place of 19th centurybuildings, unique homesteads and B&Bs, classicAustralian pubs and quirky cafes.

The Corowa district was originally inhabited by theBangerang people. Their tribal lands extended northto the Murrumbidgee River and along the Murray Riverfrom Howlong to Berrigan and south to Mansfield inVictoria. In the late 1880-90s, one of the members ofthis tribe, Tommy MacRae, was encouraged to makesketches in pen and ink of various tribal activities andthe tribe’s contact with white man. Some of his originalwork survives today as an important record of thoseactivities.

European settlements began to spring up in the areafollowing the explorations and reports of Hume andHovell, while another explorer, Captain Charles Sturt,is considered the first white person to have acquiredland in the region.

Once a bustling river port, Corowa-Wahgunyah has acolourful, agricultural and gold mining history. Due tothe enterprise and diligence of John Foord, Corowaand Wahgunyah owe their existence.

Together with John Crisp, he took up land on thesouthern side of the river “The Wahgunyah Run” andbecame storekeeper, bridge builder, flour miller,

transporter and town planner. In 1859 Foord purchasedland on the New South Wales side and planned thetownship of North Wahgunyah, now known as Corowa.

Paddle steamers made their way up stream along theMurray River to Albury from the 1850s when gold wasdiscovered in the Beechworth district supplying goodsto the gold fields.

Tom Roberts’ famous painting Shearing the Rams(page 89) was painted near Howlong from sketchesand drawings he made in the shearing shed ofBrocklesby Station in 1890. The Argus newspaper ofthat year described how Tom Roberts ‘went out to thegreat Australian river to learn it. He fixed himself on astation and all one spring he studied and made studiesof the light, the atmosphere, the shed, the sheep, themen and the work...when all were done it was too lateto begin seriously...’.

Corowa played a role in the negotiations leading up tothe creation of the Federation of Australia in 1901. In1893, at Corowa, a conference was held whichaccepted the motion that all future Federationconference delegates should be elected by thepeople, instead of being representatives of the variousgovernments, and that they should draw up aconstitution and submit it to the people for approval.

Irrigation and navigation rights to the Murray weresettled at a conference in April 1902 which culminatedin the setting up of the River Murray Commission.

Howlong’s history dates back to 1836 when MajorMitchell established a camp on the southern banks ofthe Murray River. All these years later, camping on thevery same banks remains a major drawcard for this

tranquil village. Howlong also boasts the HowlongCountry Golf Club and Motel, with its challenging 18-hole course, which is one of the most popular alongthe Murray. Winter, spring, summer or autumn, thecourse is always in immaculate condition and comealong during December to be part of the MurrayMasters Golf Pro Am.

Superb Federation-style buildings line the streets ofCorowa offering a further glimpse of another time. The Mediterranean-like weather provides long, sun-drenched days that are perfect for getting out andabout. With both the Murray River and glorious LakeMulwala on the doorstep, the leisure choices areseemingly endless. There’s camping, bushwalking,picnicking, swimming, fishing, canoeing andwaterskiing just to name a few. If you want to get youradrenalin pumping, consider a glider flight or perhapsa tandem-skydive.

The pleasure of shopping in Corowa region is alsomixed with ambience. The tree lined wide streets,historic buildings with shady verandahs mixed withcafes, restaurants and gift stores, equals a pleasurableshopping experience. Take in the warmth andhospitality of our diverse range of restaurants andcafes with local wine lists, accompanied by locallygrown gourmet delights. For more inforation contactthe Corowa Visitor Information Centre where theirfriendly staff are always willing to help anytime.

Corowa,Wahgunyah & HowlongThe birthplace of Australia’s Federation

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126 www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Corowa Towns close by: Glenrowan, Wangaratta, Chiltern

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John Foorde Bridge connecting Corowa with Wahgunyah built in 1892

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Historic Wahgunyah Customs House

Federation Museum in Corowa

Morning between Corowa and Mulwala

Globe Hotel and otherswere used during the

Corowa FederationConference 1893

Yarrawonga Mulwala is located at the westerncorner of Lake Mulwala where the lake passes

through the Yarrawonga Weir and flows into theMurray River. These 2 bodies of water form part of thestate boundary with New South Wales and Victoria.Mulwala is clustered along the western shore of thelake opposite Yarrawonga in New South Wales.However, the 2 are linked by a bridge over the lakeand nearly create a continuous settlement. This bridgecontains an unusual bend and dip in the middle, aresult of miscommunication between the 2 stategovernments during its construction in 1923.

The Pangerang Tribe, were the original Aboriginalinhabitants of the area, from Howlong to Berrigan, andare attributed with naming the 2 towns. “Yarra” means“water running over rocks” and “wonga” was namedafter the “wonga pigeon”, which were very plentiful inthe region at that time. Mulwala means big lagoon orbig back water.

Yarrawonga was named after a pastoral station takenup by Elizabeth Hume (sister-in-law of the explorer,Hamilton Hume), in 1842. Elizabeth Hume’shomestead, Byramine, was built in 1842 and is on theAustralian and Victorian historic buildings registers. It isin the locality of Burramine, which is about 14km westof Yarrawonga.

The village of Mulwala developed early as a servicecentre for the pastoral and agricultural propertiesalong the Murray. It had a school as early as 1865. Apunt was needed between Mulwala and Yarrawongauntil a bridge could be built in the 1880s. This bridgewas replaced by the present bridge in 1923. The

building of Yarrawonga Weir in 1939 is the largest ofthe 16 weirs on the Murray River and the creation ofLake Mulwala entirely changed the environment of thispart of the Murray and provided a new route acrossthe river. The lake contains 118 gigalitres (1 megalitre= 1 million litres) and is 4,450 hectares.

In 1868 a town was surveyed at Yarrawonga, occupyingthe 4 blocks bounded by Witt, Hume, Orr, and HovellStreets near the river. Town blocks further south weresurveyed in 1875 and 1886. The railway fromMelbourne reached Yarrawonga in 1886 and a bridgeacross the river to Mulwala was built in 1891.

With the opening of the railway, wheat and livestockwere easily transported to Melbourne markets and thetownship rapidly grew from a few hundred persons toover 1000 people.

Even before the coming of the railway in 1886,Yarrawonga township had 2 banks, 4 hotels, 3churches, several stores, a school (1876), a newspaperand 2 flour mills. In 1891 a second newspaper waspublished, hotels numbered 6 and town water wasreticulated.

In the 1890s the Colonies of Victoria and NSW hadCustoms Houses at the border crossings. Theyimposed import duties on goods such as grainproducts and livestock taxes moving across the border.The Yarrawonga Mulwala Customs House, restored toits original condition is located on the Yarrawonga sideof the road bridge, next to the Visitor Centre.

Before the railway was extended to Yarrawonga in1886, paddle steamers plied their way as far as Albury,transporting all kinds of general merchandise, including

timber, wheat and wool. One such paddle steamer wasThe Pilot, reputed to be the slowest craft on TheMurray. She ended her days in Lake Mulwala. Herpaddle wheels were raised from the lake and are nowon display at the Visitor Information Centre.

Being close to vast amounts of water and noted for itssunshine, it would come as no surprise to learn thatthis area is essentially a holiday resort and retirementcentre, although the irrigation scheme supportssubstantial primary industries, such as dairying,agriculture and pastoral activities, in the surroundingcountryside.

Renowned for its wonderful climate, this picturesquepiece of regional Victoria and New South Wales is an“Inland Aquatic Paradise” for visitors to take sometime to enjoy stunning scenery. Lose yourself in theserene surrounds of the forest, Lake Mulwala and, ofcourse, the mighty Murray River.

West of Yarrawonga Mulwala are many access pointsto the river. Earth tracks lead from the Murray ValleyHighway through state forests to picnic areas with fireplaces and tables and to over 50 camping beaches.

Yarrawonga is also the start of the large 404km, 5 dayRed Cross Murray River Marathon, a canoe/kayak racefrom Yarrawonga to Swan Hill which began in 1969.

If you love life by the water you’ll love Yarrawonga-Mulwala! Do you want more? You can always enjoyAustralia’s largest public 45 hole golf course. You’lldiscover a world of adventure in the region includingcruises, kayaking, scenic flights and winery tours, take atrip to sample our local wines, check out our museums,animal farm, amusement park, and so much more...

Yarrawonga & MulwalaThe Aquatic Paradise

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128 www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Yarrawonga Towns close by: Shepparton, Benalla, Glenrowan, Finley, Jerilderie

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CanberraMorning sunrise on Lake Mulwala, Yarrawonga

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Relaxing bike ride at Lake Mulwala, Yarrawonga

Autumn on tree plantation near Yarrawonga

Yarrawonga Weir (built 1935-1939)

Looking across Lake Mulwala to Yarrawonga

Shores of Lake Mulwala

Situated in the centre of ‘the food bowl of Australia’,Cobram Barooga and it’s district area are renowned

for their magnificent climate and variety of availableattractions and activities.

The Cobram Barooga area is home to some of themost picturesque sections of Australia’s mightiest river,the Murray. Visitors are captivated by the lifestyle, withwide sandy beaches, towering gums and nativebushland blending together to form a recipe for aunique holiday destination.

Prior to the 1830s, the Aboriginals enjoyed thebenefits of the Murray River and its environs, whichprovided an abundant food source, and still does. The first white men in the area were most likely CharlesSturt, who with 13 others, drove 300 head of cattlealong the north side of the river to South Australia,although the ‘Sturt Memorial’ is on the south side ofCobram.

Squatters followed the explorers with Colonel Gwynneto Boomanoomana Station (80,000 acres) and GeorgeHilas to Barooga Station (110,000 acres), while 10kmseast of the present Cobram, Octavius Phillpottsestablished ‘Cobram’ (120,000 acres). These holdingswere legalized in 1847 but the next 40 years were tosee their break-up by Selectors with the Land Actsnecessitated by the increased population after theGold Rushes.

By 1881, for example, ‘Cobram’ was 2,300 acres, andis now smaller with further subdivisions and the site ofthe ‘Cobram Estate Olive Oil’ plantation, aninternational exporter and an example of thecontinuing changes in agriculture.

For the farmers of the last decades of the 1800s,transport was a concern. The early produce was takengenerally by bullock wagon to Avenel, Benalla orShepparton, or by river, to Echuca. The coming of thetrain to Cobram in 1888 was a blessing. On thenorthern side growers could bring their produce byhorse teamster to the river which could be used whendry, although New South Wales growers had to face aCustoms House on the Victorian bank until Federationin 1901.

A punt was built in 1889 and in 1902 a bridge, whichhas now been supersceded by the 2006 bridge.

The first signs of a town appeared for Cobram in 1887,spurred on by the coming of the railway in 1888.Barooga slowly developed from the 1890s onward.A major incentive to both areas was the coming ofirrigation.

Irrigation first appeared in 1892 with a windmillpumping water from the river to a nearby orchard,while in 1907 a steam engine at ‘Cobram’ pumpedwater to a large vineyard at ‘Seven Hills’. In 1915 theCobram Irrigation Company was formed and a pumphouse built.

The Hume and Yarrawonga Weirs of the 1930s alsoproved a boost for agriculture in the area and afterWorld War II, the Soldier Settlement area west ofCobram lead to a prosperous dairy industry, and thefoundation of the now-international Murray GoulburnCo-operative. In Barooga, a major agriculturaldevelopment had been the foundation of the ‘TarnPirr’ vineyard by Seppelts and Son, more lately ownedby Southcorp.

The natural environment allows for unparalleled wildlifeexperiences that covers the Murray River’s best sandybeaches, towering 500-year old red gums, nativebushland, abundant bird life and Australia’s uniquewildlife in their natural habitats.

There’s plenty to keep the entire family occupied.Restaurants, wineries and the retail sector all satisfy thevisitor with their diversity. Discover the area usingbikes, boats and canoes or simply stroll through thebush and drop in a fishing line; experience otherattractions with the helping hand of an expert guide,including trail rides and river cruises.

The range of choices is breath-taking: a golfer’sparadise exists with courses rated among Australia’sbest, bowls, lawn and hard-court tennis, water skiing,horse riding or bushwalking experience the superbfacilities that Club Barooga has to offer.

Wineries, art and craft galleries, farms, parks andgardens, markets and retail facilities in the district offermany chances to take the hustle and bustle out of yourholiday program. Dining options are many and varied.Bars, bistros, cafes, restaurants and hotels catering toall kinds of styles and tastes. Combine a great a mealwith the club facilities to make a great night. No trip toCobram and Barooga is complete without samplingthe outstanding and award winning local produce andwines that this region has to offer.

With the area’s rich agricultural heritage and thegrowing number of excellent facilities in the Cobam-Barooga communities, the lure of the Murray Rivercontinues.

Cobram & BaroogaCentre of “the food bowl of Australia”

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130 www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Cobram Towns close by: Bundalong, Strathmerton, Numurkah, Shepparton, Nathalia, Barmah

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Picnic at one of the 103 sandy beaches along the Murray River between Yarrawonga andBarmah, the biggest and most accessible of which is Thompsons Beach at Cobram

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Golfing in Barooga

Replica settlers cottage, Cobram

Historic Courthouse 1912

Cobram Barooga bridge, built 1902

Visitors are attracted to Tocumwal nowadays withits magnificent sandy beaches (with 24 located

within 5 minutes east and west), all surrounded bysome of the most impressive red gum forests on theMurray River.

It’s generally accepted that Tocumwal (originallyTucumival) was named after an Aboriginal wordmeaning “deep hole” or “pit”, and that it was theabode of a native spirit which was accustomed to flitfrom the river underground by a subterranean passageand bob up at the Blow Hole in the granite formationat the Rocks.

The “Blow Hole” in Tocumwal is the small outcrop ofrocks which is near “The Rocks” area, north-east ofTocumwal and has been closely associated with thefolklore of the area.

In the very early days a large English syndicate ownedall the land in this district from somewhere nearDeniliquin to Mulwala. As Patrick Hennessy settled onthe Murray in 1840 and purchased a large area fromMessrs. Huron and Lester in 1843 we think the Englishsyndicate must have been broken up into smallerholdings before that date.

This was the first purchase by Patrick Hennessy andwas probably east of Tocumwal, because at the timeMurray Run Station (described later as containing 185square miles and bounded on the west by the junctionof the Tuppal Creek and Murray River) was controlledby the Royal Bank of Australia who sold it to JamesMoodie during the 1840s. Moodie sold it to PatrickHennessy at the later date, we think about 1848, asPatrick Hennessy owned the Murray Run before he

purchased Berrigagama (which adjoined Murray Runon the latter’s western boundary in 1849).

This latter purchase was divided between Mr.Hennessy's sons, Edward, William and Robert. Thelatter 2 were still living in the district in 1896 and Mr.Whitehead was a grandson of Patrick Hennessy.

In the early 1850s a regular crossing place had beenestablished somewhere in the vicinity of the town andit is thought the first buildings were built in or near thepresent town site about 1857 or 1858.

In 1890 the Victorian Government snagging boat“Melbourne” completed three months work in thearea, 300 snags were removed from one quarter milesection of the Murray River. Tocumwal was alsoproclaimed under the Police Offences Act.

The Tocumwal Hotel was built in 1891 by Mr Hillsonand it had what was called the Horse Works to pumpwater and was situated near the river. It was a largecircular frame that the draught horse was harnessed toand the horse walked in circles turning the frame thatpumped the water through the pipes to the hotel.

The first trading bank opened in leased premises in1893 was the Commercial Banking Company ofSydney. The first bank manager also started the firstProgress Association. A new building was built inDeniliquin St and the bank remained in this buildinguntil 1941 when it closed due to the war.

In 1901, Tuppal Woolshed was built with 72 stands andwas the second largest and finest in Australia andcovered 20,000 feet. In 1902 there were 207,515sheep shorn yielding 3,244 bales and they marked65,511 lambs.

Chinese population expands in Tocumwal area in the1930s. The gold rush in Victoria, New South Wales andQueensland saw a large number of Chinese workerscome to the country from Quandong Province inChina. They were renowned for their honesty and hardwork in the gold fields doing work the Europeansfound too difficult.

Wherever they went, their ability to create marketgardens ensured produce was available to the workerson the mine fields. When the gold rush ended largecamps of the Chinese were hired as contract labourersto ring bark scrub on large Riverina propertiesbetween Corowa and Deniliquin.

The Murray River and the tradition of free bushcamping and water based activities continues to attractgeneration after generation returning to enjoy thewater skiing, canoeing, swimming, camping,caravanning, bush walking and the vast array of nativewildlife including over 150 different bird species.Wildlife abounds and it is not unusual to see kangaroosand koalas, wedge tails and wallabies in their naturalhabitat.

Tocumwal and district offers some of the best qualityaccommodation on the Murray, with over 14 motels orself contained units and five caravan parks withbeautifully landscaped surrounds, pools, spas, tennis orRed gum forest in the Tocumwal area alone. Prices arevery competitive and service is of the highest standard,and offer something for every budget.

TocumwalDiversity, history, gateway; and many sandy beaches to enjoy

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132 www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Tocumwal Towns close by: Finley, Jerilderie, Barmah

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Terminus Hotel

Tattersalls Hotel and SportAviation glider

The Foreshore Park Big Murray Cod

Antiques shops and classic pubs

Mathoura is a great little town surrounded by theforest and the waterways of the Murray and

Edward Rivers. Mathoura was settled in the 1840s andbecame a staging and resting point for Cobb & CoCoaches. Since the early days the nearby river red gumforests were harvested to supply the paddle steamertrade and later the railways for the supply of sleepers.

As the overlanders trekked Queensland cattle andsheep to Adelaide and Melbourne markets, the runsthey passed through soon began to sprout servicesand settlements. Mathoura Station was one such run. Itwas taken up by Peter Stuckey in 1842 and comprised60,000 acres.

In 1858 the Redbank Inn became a coach changingstation for Taylor & McKenzie's coaches runningbetween Deniliquin and Moama. It prospered becauseof its location at the junction of major stock routes andbetween the NSW and Central Victorian goldfields. Itwas described by the Melbourne Argus as ‘one of thebest inns for accommodation between Wagga Waggaand Melbourne’.

By 1882 a flour mill had been established; there were 2hotels, the Mathoura Inn and the Railway Hotel, as wellas a school, a Union church and a sawmill.

The Cadell Fault is a ridge running from Echuca toDeniliquin that was formed when the land was thrustupwards by earthquakes between 10,000 and 30,000years ago. This uplifted section of land diverted the oldMurray River’s western flow, with the new western wallof earth holding back water in flood times, to create thenew flood plains and a complex system of lakes andcreeks. This produced ideal conditions for the

establishment of what is now the largest river red gumforest in Australia. The Cobb Highway runs along theuplifted portion, some 15 metres above land, east ofthe fault, making it possible in some places to lookdirectly over the canopy of trees growing on the lowerlevel. The fault was named after Captain Francis Cadell,one of the first Europeans to navigate the Murray River.

The extensive swamps in the forest provide anexcellent habitat for waterfowl, Australian pelicans,black swans, cormorant, ibis, spoonbills and a variety ofduck, as well as sulphur-crested and white cockatoos,galahs and many species of parrots. The odd emu isalways present; kangaroos are common. Occasionally,at early morning or at dusk, a platypus and water ratscan be spotted on the river banks. Within the forest isevidence of Aboriginals through their survivingmiddens and canoe trees.

East of Mathoura between Echuca Moama andDeniliquin, extending towards Tocumwal are over35,000 hectares of the Mathoura State Forest with itsmagnificent river red gum Eucalyptus camaldulensis.When combined with the Barmah Forest on thesouthern side of the Murray they give a total of 65,000hectares, the largest river red gum ecosystem in theworld and its preservation is of national importance.

The forests were used for grazing early last century, asthe waterways acted as fences for cattle being movedfrom eastern New South Wales to Adelaide. During thepaddle steamer days the forests were extensively cutfor firewood which was stacked on the Murray Riverbank for collection, and larger trees were cut to servicethe Echuca sawmills. Logs were pulled to the river bankwhere they were loaded onto barges and floated

downstream with the current. The timber’s durablequalities made it a prized and versatile commodity forfencing, house building, railway sleepers, wharf pilesand paddle steamers. Red gum blocks from Mathouraonce paved the streets of Melbourne.

The forests are situated in wetlands which before riverregulation experienced frequent flooding and dryperiods, conditions which the river red gum needs forregeneration.

Another geological feature, even older than man’sexistence in Australia, is a series of sand-dunes foundin places throughout the forest. These were formedalong the banks of the ancient river. One sand-dune,over 19km long, lies parallel with Barmah Road, nearthe Murray River, and once formed the northern shoreline of a large lake. The dunes can be identified by thedifferent vegetation growing on them such as whitecypress pine and yellow box.

There are self-guide drives to enjoy nearby, the GulpaIsland Forest Drive, Millewa Forest Drive and MillewaForest Drive. Drive with caution as tracks are of formedearth and can become slippery after wet weather, ordevelop rough patches in the dry.

A popular picnic spot south-east of Mathoura is PicnicPoint, on the Murray, 11km from Mathoura, where thebanks are low and lined with river red gums. Access isvia the Tocumwal and Picnic Point roads 5.5km fromMathoura. It is a popular camping and fishing area.Picnic Point Road provides access to the Moira ForestWalkway and Observation Mound, and a BicentennialWalking Path to Poverty Point. Barbecue facilities arelocated at the start of the walkway.

MathouraGateway to a nature wonderland and ancient origins

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134 www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Mathoura Towns close by: Deniliquin, Barmah

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Gulpa Creed Reed Beds Bird Observatory. Gulpa Creel is a short, natural anabrance of the Murray River system. It divertsfrom the river at Picnic Point and flows in a predominantly northerly direction past Mathoura and along the western edgeof the Millewa group of forests to joing the Edward River some 25km downstream. Associated with Gulpa Creek areextensive areas of wetland and River Red Gum forests. Large nesting colonies of waterbirds are located here.

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Character buildings such as Charleston House

Kingfisher Cruises takes you through the Barmah Forest

12 horses pulled this red gum Log Wagon,1926

Sculpture at visitor centre

Originally the Yorta Yorta people occupied a uniquestretch of forest-wetlands that are located in what

is now known as the central Murray – Goulburn region.

Founded in 1853, Echuca became the largest inlandport in Australia, second only to the Port ofMelbourne. Like many bustling and successful towns inits time breweries and brothels boomed. Acombination of wealth with the finest of fashions andbare-knuckle fights lasting for hours. The town becamethe trading hub from as far as Queensland, utilising theDarling and Murrumbidgee Rivers to transport theirwares like wool and harvests of wheat, eventually byrail to the Port of Melbourne.

The historic Port of Echuca literally means the ‘meetingof the waters’ and sits on the junction of the Murrayand Campaspe and just downstream from theGoulburn River. Echuca was founded by one of themost enterprising characters of the early colonial days,an ex-convict named Henry Hopwood. In 1850 hebought a small punt, which operated across the MurrayRiver near the Campaspe Junction. Originally known as“Hopwood’s Ferry” the name was changed to Echucaas the town grew. Hopwood worked to establish atown, which eventually had a major influence on thedevelopment of the great inland river system. He builtthe Bridge Hotel in 1859 and helped found theRiverine Herald in 1863. When he died in 1869 he lefta thriving town where nothing existed 16 years earlier.

The centre of Echuca during its heyday was the hugered gum wharf built in 1865 with restoration beginningin 1973. At one time it recorded that more than 240boat visits and their wares transferred in 1 year. The

riverboat trade was of national importance because ithad the effect of opening up inland Australia forsettlement and thereby increasing the country’sproduction of wool.

In the 1870s the district supported a dozen millscutting in excess of 1000 logs each week. Before longthe 2 industries began to rely on each other. Theriverboat days boomed at Echuca – until the greatdepression of the 1890s. As the railways wereextended in New South Wales and road transportimproved, the river trade declined and the old wharfwas defunct by the 1920s.

Moama has had a chequered history. When thesettlement began in 1845, it was known as Maiden’sPunt, named after James Maiden – punt owner, stationmanager, publican and post master. Three years laterthe village area was surveyed and lots were put up forsale when the town was renamed Moama, in 1851.

Situated on the main cattle route from Southern NewSouth Wales to the gold fields at Bendigo in the 1850s,the settlement became a cattle market and crossingplace and big deals took place across the bar ofMaiden’s Junction Inn. There were celebrations in thein 1853 when Captain William Randell, the first personto travel upstream from Goolwa, arrived in the paddle-steamer, “Mary Ann”. Randell’s arrival herald the boatbuilding industry and river trade that bolsteredMoama’s fortunes in years to come. Moama declinedwhen the cattle market crashed in the late 1850s andcompetition from Echuca nearby. James Maiden andHenry Hopwood were fierce rivals in business for years.

The historic port is now home to the largest collectionof paddle steamers in Australia. Many of them have

been fully restored and offer daily cruises along withinsights into a trading river from over 100 years ago.

The historic Port of Echuca adjoining the wharf is aliving museum. Historic buildings, horse-drawncarriages, gravel roads, blacksmith and woodturner allcreating a wonderful atmosphere recreating the 1800s.

Shop at boutique stores along Echuca’s historic HighStreet, containing historic buildings with spectacularfacades. Plus explore the range of accommodationchoices and other stunning attractions including thepopular clubs in the region. Echuca and Moama arethe perfect base for a great holiday on the MurrayRiver with their stunning Mediterranean climate.

Experience the mighty Murray River on a river cruise,rent a houseboat in Echuca, go fishing, swimming orsimply paddle a canoe. It's a delightful way to unwind.Wake up to clear country air and a chorus of birds.Explore nearby towns, magnificent red gum forests,wetlands and fauna parks. Soak up a lifetime ofmemories. Excellent dining in local restaurantsincluding the renowned Oscar W’s Wharfside,overlooking the Murray or have a wonderful riverbankpicnic. You can also enjoy a round at one of theMurray’s best golf courses, Rich River Golf Club.

You can also absorb the incredible beauty of naturewith magnificent red gum forests at nearby BarmahState Forest. See amazing wetlands that are home toover 200 species of waterbirds and other fauna.

Echuca Moama has a myriad of festivals and events.There’s fun for the whole family.

Echuca & MoamaAustralia’s paddle steamer capital and largest inland port

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136 www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Echuca Towns close by: Kyabram, Rochester, Gunbower, Barmah, Cohuna

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Historic Port of Echuca, Victoria. PS Adelaide is one of the oldest paddle steamers on the Murray Riverbuilt in 1866. PS Alexander Arbuthnot built 1923 and PS Pevensey was built 1923

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ECHUCAMOAMA

Historic shops of Echuca

Port of Echuca andStar Hotel Echuca (1867)

Pride of the Murray. Built in 1924 by Murray River Sawmills

Torrumbarry Weir

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For many years the twin towns, Barham in N.S.W.and its Victorian partner Koondrook were

important trading stops on the river-boat journeys andalso developed sawmills which provided red gumsleepers for the Victorian Railways. Arbuthnot’s Sawmillstill operates in Koondrook. Koondrook developedfaster than Barham, which was more isolated, until thetowns were linked by the bridge over the Murray in1904. A number of paddle steamers and barges werebuilt from locally milled red gum.

Beyond the wetlands is Kow Swamp, where in the late1960s anthropologists uncovered 13,000-year-oldfossilised bones. Evidence that at least 2 distinctAboriginal clans had colonised Australia.

The history of these towns dates back to the earlyexpansion of the pastoralists. In 1843 Edward Greentook up 54,000 hectares of land and a 32 kilometrefrontage on the Murray, carrying a modest head ofcattle in the mid Victorian period. Barham station itselfwas named after the maiden name of his wife. Whileacross the river in Victoria, the Gunnawarra Run wasestablished. Koondrook eventually was settled byfarmers about 1881.

The development was hastened by the 26km Kerang-Koondrook Tramway, built in 1889, which linked theriver port of Koondrook with Melbourne via the railwaylink to Kerang. It was called a ‘tramway’ because onlylight rails were used. The tramway was not fenced in,nor were signals allowed. The line operated until 1976for passengers and 1978 for goods. Competition froma sealed road to Kerang reduced its business andforced its closure. The old station remains in the

middle of the main street, together with a replica ofone of the last locomotives used on the line.

In 1902 it was agreed that a bridge with a lift spanshould be built, thanks to local pressure. The first pileswere driven in 1903 and the bridge opened in 1905.The history of Barham changed forever when a liftbridge was constructed allowing traffic to access thetown. The bridge has a central section that is raised toallow paddle steamers to pass on the way back andforth to Echuca and Swan Hill. It is one of the oldestsurviving bridges on the river.

The Barham Bridge has historical significance as a rareexample of a type of bridge which shows evolvingbridge design in Australia. The De Burgh timber bridgewas only built for a brief period between 1899 and1904. There are only 9 remaining, and only 2associated with lift spans in Barham and Cobram.

The towns form the commercial centre for the region’stimber, fat-lamb, cattle and dairy producers. You cancatch the mood of the Murray with a leisurely stroll onthe river walks, test your golf on a championshipcourse, or take a swim in the man-made 80 ha BarhamLakes recreational park and picnic on the banks.

Barham is best known for its citrus groves, fishing,and/or relaxing at the man-made lakes on the river’sedge. The twin towns service the extensive pastoraland horticultural regions, but they are also adapting tothe increasing demands of tourists. Just out of townare the extensive river red gum forests of Koondrookand Perricoota.

This part of the Murray rewards anglers with MurrayCod, golden perch, silverfish and catfish, while dobbers

can land some very tasty yabbies. A track through thecaravan park leads to a boat ramp and sand bar whichform a safe swimming hole. Further on, Riverside Parkis a popular picnicking area and features a log buggyof the type which were once hitched behind thebullocks to haul timber to the local mills. Canoes andpaddleboats are available for hire.

Shannkirst Zoological Reserve on Gunbower Islandleads you through ‘Victoria’s Kakadu’, the Gannawarrawetlands support nearly 160 different species of birdsand countless numbers of native fauna.

Barham Lakes is a wonderful 32 hectare lake complexconstructed by the Barham Services Club. It includessheltered picnic areas, playgrounds, barbecues,waterslide, sail boards and pedal boats, making it anideal spot for a restful break. There are also wideexpanses of lawn, 4.5km of cycling/walking tracks andthe lake system is stocked with native fish.

Brady’s Burls, Myall Road, Koondrook, specialises incrafting burls from river red gums into furniture, fruitbowls and ornaments.

Scenic forest drives around Barham and Koondrookmay be taken through three nearby areas of naturalbushland. Sleeper cutters and charcoal burners are stillto be found working in many places.

Campbells Island, near Murrabit, is bound by theMurray and Little Murray rivers, and an ideal locationfor fishing, swimming and boating. Koondrook StateForest has excellent camping spots on the banks of theMurray and good fishing.

Barham & KoondrookA great little historic spot for a Murray escape

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www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Barham Towns close by: Cohuna, Kerang, Murrabit, Lake Charm, Lake Boga

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Canoeing at Barham-Koondrook near bridge constructed in 1904

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BARHAMKOONDROOK

Red gum statue of Sir JohnMonash, Chief Engineer of theBarham Koondrook bridge

Arbuthnot Sawmlls established 1889

Koondrook to Kerang railway

Murray River at Koondrook

Based on evidence from Coobool Creek and KowSwamp, it appears that Aboriginal people have

lived in the area for the last 13,000 - 9,000 years. Thearea is inhabited by the Wemba-Wemba and Wati-Watipeople. Swan Hill was called “Matakupaat” or “placeof the Platypus” by the Wemba Wemba people.

In 1836 the first Europeans to visit the region were ledby the explorer Major Thomas Mitchell, who wasseeking new areas for settlement. He named it SwanHill while camping beside a hill there on 21 June aftera sleepless night near a flock of noisy swans. FollowingMajor Mitchell’s favourable reports, the first settlerssoon arrived. They were pastoralists, establishing largesheep stations next to the lush Murray environment.

In 1853 Francis Cadell in his paddle steamer LadyAugusta navigated the Murray from its mouth in SouthAustralia reaching Swan Hill, his farthest pointupstream. The boat was welcomed by the whole of thetown’s population at the time - 12 people.

The town grew up around the punt crossing whichopened in 1846 and was the only river crossing for 100km. It operated until it was superseded by theAllan timber truss bridge in 1896. Robert O’Hara Burkeand William Wills crossed the Murray here in 1860preparing for their expedition to the Gulf ofCarpentaria. There’s a huge Moreton Bay Fig tree inCurlewis Street thought to be planted around 1860.

The railway from Bendigo was extended from Kerangto Swan Hill in in May 1890, then to Piangil in 1915. In1914, Isaburo (Jo) Takasuka produced the firstcommercial rice crop in Australia. He grew Japanese(Japonica) varieties on 200 acres (81 hectares) of flood

prone land on the Murray River near Swan Hill.

Before long agricultural selectors followed and openedup the Mallee areas for grain production. Within a fewyears, the region’s produce was being sent not only tolarger Australian cities, but to markets around theworld. By the end of the 19th century intensiveirrigation development and other new agriculturalendeavours were underway. The settlementsthroughout the area grew with the economy,eventually providing all the necessities of a regionalcommunity. These settlements include Swan Hill,Robinvale, Lake Boga, Nyah, Nyah West, Piangil,Woorinen, Ultima, Manangatang and Tresco.

The Swan Hill Pioneer Settlement was established in1961 to recreate the thriving river port of the 1860s tothe 1890s. The settlement has an old locomotive, aworking blacksmith's shop and an old newspaperoffice, as well as many other relics of pioneer days. In1973 the PS Murray River Queen, the largest-everMurray River paddle boat of its time, was launched fortourist operation between Swan Hill and Goolwa.

The banks of the Murray, Swan Hill boasts an enjoyableMediterranean climate. Numerous attractions withample quality accommodation make Swan Hill anexcellent holiday destination, with a unique blend ofhistory with a host of modern facilities. From thehistoric Pioneer Settlement, regional Art Gallery,historic homesteads, numerous wineries to of coursedaily cruises on the PS Pyap.

Enjoy the magnificent wide open spaces and thetranquillity of inland Australia while you visit an award-winning winery or a fine restaurant featuring fresh

Murray Cod, yabbies, avocado, citrus, stone fruits orvine fruits.

Take in the beautiful surroundings of nature’sremarkable features in one of many reserves and parks.Enjoy the fantastic festivals and events, arts and manyunique family attractions.

Swan Hill also offers excellent sporting facilitiesincluding 6 noteworthy golf courses including theinternationally renown Murray Downs Golf Cours.Vinifera and Nyah state forests are located to theNorth of Swan Hill. Tooleybuc further North, Robinvale,Balranald, Euston and Nyah all provide excellent siteseeing destinations for visitors. Explore TyntyndyerHomestead, 17km north of the town which has a smallmuseum of pioneering and Aboriginal relics.

Explore Lake Boga just south of Swan Hill which duringWorld War II was Australia’s principal flying boat base.Today a Catalina aircraft has been restored bymembers of the Lions Club and rests beside the lake atCatalina Park. The museum is located in the secretcommunications bunker built during World War II.

Today, Swan Hill is a thriving, modern city. Aneconomic catchment stretching along the MurrayValley into the Mallee in Victoria and the WesternRiverina in New South Wales, is also serviced by thecity. Though still focused on primary production andsupplying the needs of people and businesses in thearea, Swan Hill has broadened its activities incommerce, manufacturing and tourism. The city todaycombines the relaxed lifestyle and community spirit oftraditional rural life, with the facilities and conveniencesof a much larger urban centre.

Swan HillThe heart of the Murray River on the edge of the Mallee

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140 www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Swan-Hill Towns close by: Lake Charm, Lake Boga, Kerang, Murrabit, Nyah, Tooleybuc

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Swimming in the Murray River at Swan Hill

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SWAN HILL

Swan Hill bridge

Swan Hill Pioneer Settlement

Hovell & Hume Morton Bay Fig tree

Water tower (1883) Tyntyndyer Homestead

Murray near Murray Downs

Euston was founded in 1846 by Edmund Morey. As news of the fine grazing land spread, Euston

began to grow into the township. In 1847 John Grantobtained a pastoral license over 19,000 acres of theBumbang Peninsula on the Victorian side of the Murrayand built a pine log homestead that still exists today.

The local Aboriginal people who lived within theregion were the Latje Latje and Yerre Yerre.

The Robinvale township was born in 1924 following apublic auction of 1 square mile of land divided intosmall allotments. Local founder, Herbert E. Cuttlenamed the town in honour of his son, LieutenantGeorge Robin Cuttle, who was killed in action duringair combat over France in 1918. The Post Officeopened in the town of Bumbang, but was renamedRobinvale in August of 1924.

After World War II a soldier settlement irrigationscheme brought many new arrivals to Robinvale andEuston. The area soon flourished as the climate andsoil were excellent for horticulture. Today Robinvaleand Euston is thriving and renowned for quality freshproduce. Robinvale is known for the massiveproduction of grapes, olives, carrots and almonds.

Herbett E. Cuttle, together with Royston Siddons,bought out a Soldier settlement board propertysituated on the banks of the Murray River in the 1940’s.The first olive tree was believed to be planted in 1946.600 acres of olive trees were planted at “Oliveholme”which, unlike other groves, was irrigated.

An olive press was purchased, but lack of technologyand a slump in olive prices caused the property to fold

in the 1970’s. It is believed that the press was lateroperated by the Meadowlea margarine company andthe investment was funded by a large conglomerate ofAustralian companies. Most of the grove fell to thebulldozer because certain varieties were unsuitable fortable olive production, Robinvale Estate are nowreviving the grove.

The factory is encircled by olive trees planted in theearly days, some of the oldest trees on the propertyline the driveway leading to the factory.

Lock 15 on the Murray River is just downstream of thepopular Euston Club and Resort and provides a pool ofirrigation water and ensuring that the river nearRobinvale Euston is permanently available for wateractivities. The weir and lock were completed in 1937,the last one built on the Murray River system.

At the corner of the Murray Valley Highway andMcLennan Drive, Robinvale, is a huge windmill whichwas erected in 1948 and is claimed to be the largest inthe Southern Hemisphere. Following McLennan Drivealong the river foreshore passes beside attractiveparkland and the historic Robinswood Homestead builtin 1926. The homestead is the earliest remainingsettlement in Robinvale built by the Cuttle family.Overlooking the Murray, this unique Homestead offershistoric appeal to visitors whom can have a walkthrough tour guided by friendly volunteer.

Robinvale is a popular camping area on the Murray. Itis situated on a peninsula of land surrounded on threesides by the Murray River, making it a picturesqueholiday spot. Around Robinvale are irrigated fruit and

vegetable farms as well as a number of wineries,including McWilliams Wines which has a large vineyardin the town. Robinvale is attractive and well-laid out,featuring wide streets and well-maintained gardens. Itscommercial centre is primarily situated in tree-linedPerrin Street which leads to Caix Square - a centralpark with memorials related to the region’s history.

The region is home to an array of native birds and fishsuch as the pelican, swan, perch and the Murray Cod.

Euston is gateway to Balranald, Yanga National Park,World Heritage Willandra Lakes, Mungo Natonal Parkand the outback. The Hattah-Kulkyne National Park iswest of Robinvale, this park is typical Mallee countrywith extensive low scrub and open native pinewoodlands featuring a network of freshwater lakesseasonally filled by creeks connected to the MurrayRiver. The Murray-Kulkyne Regional Park fronts theMurray River and adjoining the Hattah-KulkyneNational Park west of Robinvale, it is noted for itsvariety of riverine landforms on the floodplains of theMurray River and offers activities including camping,caravanning, fishing, boating, swimming and walking.Both parks form part of the a biosphere.

Imagine the smell the healing balm of the nativeeucalyptus wafting in the gentle afternoon breeze.Sitting in the magnificent sunshine, fantasticsurroundings and unspoiled river make RobinvaleEuston ideal for relaxing. Leave your troubles at homeand treat yourself to a soul-satisfying journey to thisbeautiful and pristine part of Australia’s Murray River.

Robinvale & EustonThriving with quality fresh produce and naturally unspoilt landscapes

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142 www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Robinvale Towns close by: Boundary Bend, Balranald, Kyalite

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Relaxing on the riverfront, Robinvale, Victoria

Murray River looking upstream from Euston Weir

Murray at Euston, NSW

Lock 15, Euston, NSW

Boundary Bend between Robinvale & Swan Hill

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ROBINVALEEUSTON

Not far north of Mildura and north-east ofWentworth is the World Heritage listed Willandra

Lakes and the Mungo National Park. A must visit ifyou’re in the region as it is the oldest knownarcheological site for man’s occupation of Australiadating back around 40,000 years.

Long before European settlement, the rich waters ofthe Murray region around Mildura were home toAboriginal people which included the Paakantyi andLatje Latje tribes.

European history dates back to 1847 when FrankJenkin swam a mob of cattle across the Murray fromNew South Wales and took up land in the area knownas Yerre Yerre. No licence forced him back into NewSouth Wales by Hugh Jamieson, the legal licenceholder. Mildura was gazetted as the name for the townon 20 March 1858. It is believed the name Mildura hasbeen translated to mean ‘red earth and dust' in LatjeLatje language.

In 1878 there was a change of ownership to AlexanderMcEdward, who in 1884 was forced to sell due to thesevere drought and rabbit plague of the 1880s.

The potential of the region was seen by a youngpolitician Alfred Deakin (later to become Australia’ssecond Prime Minister 1903-10). Deakin invited 2young Canadian irrigation engineers, W.B. and GeorgeChaffey to Australia in consideration of their successfulCalifornian irrigation system (see page 58)

The Mildura Irrigation Company was formed on 28December 1887. The 500 hectare township of Mildurawas designed and laid out on the Californian Patternwith Deakin Avenue, the main thoroughfare, extending

8km to the south-west. The American tradition ofnaming the streets with numbers was also borrowed.

At first the Chaffey irrigation venture was a success,but due to the 1890s depression, reduced markets fortheir produce and lack of credit, the Chaffeys wereruined. George Chaffey left Australia in 1897, never toreturn. W.B. Chaffey stayed on, and through hisdetermination and belief in Mildura plus his enormouscapacity, paid off his creditors, and when good timesreturned became a leader again. He was twice electedmayor, founded the Australian Dried Fruits Association,and was president of the Mildura Horticultural andAgricultural Society. He died in 1926. You can explorethe history of Mildura on the local Chaffey Trail.

The region’s diverse cultural and economic identity wasfirmly established following the arrival of the soldiersettlers and the post-war migrants from Italy, Ireland,Greece, England and the former Yugoslavia etc whobrought with them traditional cultivation skills thathelped Mildura the important Australian food bowl it istoday. Mildura was soon the main town of the district.Suburbs and new satellite towns sprang up. In 1937 itofficially became a city. Today, Mildura is a bright,thriving regional centre, and the surrounding Sunraysiadistrict has a population of over 50,000.

There are many fascinating historic stories in MilduraRio Vista was the home of W.B. Chaffey, it is Spanishfor “River View” and was completed in 1890. Thehouse represented the wealth and prosperity messagebeing sold to the world. The Psyche Pumps at themagical Kings Billabong. The former Astor Theatreopened in 1924 and now the Mildura Brewery and theMildura Grand Hotel opened 1891 as the Mildura

Coffee Palace. You can also ride on the historic PSMelbourne through Lock 11 completed in 1927.

Enjoy the history of classic wines at Chateau Mildura. In1888 the Chaffey brothers planted 150 acres of winegrapes on their Belar Avenue property ‘ChateauMildura’ commencing the region’s strong wine industry.

South of Mildura you’ll find Red Cliffs and the historicBig Lizzie. In early 1915 Frank Bottrill commencedconstruction of Big Lizzie to replace the camel trains inBroken Hill which carried wool and other heavy loadsin the sandy terrain. It was never able to cross theMurray River and in 1920 Big Lizzie commencedclearing mallee for the proposed 6,000 ha irrigationarea of Red Cliffs. This was to provide 700 SoldierSettlement blocks for veterans of World War 1.

Mildura and the surrounding towns of Red Cliffs,Irymple, Merbein, Gol Gol, and Buronga have anunmistakable cosmopolitan flavour thanks to amulticultural society. Mouth watering local foods andwines, a healthy arts culture and a busy year roundcalendar of events are on offer.

Mildura is a very large city for the Murray River regionincluding a region airport with direct flights fromMelbourne, Sydney and Adelaide. This is a communitythat loves to celebrate. The area is often referred to asthe Mediterranean in the outback, with its lush greengolf courses, citrus groves and vineyards, endlesssunshine and sandy river beaches. This enticing placecombines the best of a cosmopolitan holidaydestination with the easy going personality of thebush. The Mildura region is romantic and every bit ascomfortable as home.

MilduraNatural beauty, Mediterranean climate and fascinating Australian history

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144 www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Mildura Towns close by: Buronga, Irymple, Dareton, Red Cliffs, Merbein, Nangiloc, Ouyen, Hattah, Meringur, Werrimull, Gol Gol, Balranald

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Sunrise over the Murray River at Mildura

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Psyche Pumps, Kings BillabongRio Vista House and Arts Centre

Big Lizzie, Red Cliffs

Chateau Mildura still

PV Rothbury and Mildura Homestead

W.B. Chaffey monumentMILDURA

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The outback town of Wentworth lies at theconvergence of Australia’s Murray and Darling

rivers. Being at the convergence of two great rivers,Wentworth was a location of significant importance tolocal Aboriginals, the Paakantyi and Latje Latje.

The Wentworth region is home to some of the oldestknow human remains not only in Australia but theworld. There was human habitation 40,000 years ago.Wentworth is a gateway to the World HeritageWillandra Lakes system and Mungo National Park.Fascinating and important finds were made whichincluded the cremated remains of a woman (of 26,000years ago), a tall male (estimated to have lived 28,000to 30,000 years ago) and numerous mega faunaremains. The Mungo National Park Visitors Centreprovides the information needed to understand theregion’s natural and cultural history. It is located at thepark entrance.

Thegoa Lagoon was an important meeting place andfood resource. The area contains numerous sitesincluding burial sites, scarred trees, middens andcampsite remnants. Nearby Perry Sand Hills aresituated 6km west of Wentworth just off the OldRenmark Road, the red, sandy dunes reach heights of20m and are remnants of past geological times.

60km on the unsealed Old Renmark Road is LakeVictoria. The lake is a naturally occuring shallowfreshwater Lake and is as a regulated, off-river storageas part of the Murray River system. Lake Victoria wasan important centre for traditional Aboriginal people,and remains so for associated Aboriginal people today.The cultural heritage of Lake Victoria is recognised as

being of exceptionally high importance to Aboriginalpeople, and of traditional and historic significance tothe broader Australian community nationally.

Captain Charles Sturt named the Murray River on23 January, 1830 close to the current day Wentworth.Opposite the Wentworth Caravan Park a plaque reads‘In late January 1830 Capt. Charles Sturt in hiswhaleboat weighed anchor opposite this tree’.

Joseph Hawdon and Charles Bonney were the firstEuropeans to drove cattle overland from New SouthWales to Adelaide along the Murray and arrived at theMurray-Darling convergence in 1838. Otheroverlanders followed the route, which became knownas the Sydney/Adelaide ‘highway’.

The town site was approved in 1859 and was namedafter the New South Wales explorer and politicianWilliam Charles Wentworth, on June 21, 1859 and isthe region’s oldest settlement. In 1862, Wentworthbecame the centre of the mail network for westernNew South Wales. The runs were Wentworth-Melbourne, Adelaide-Wentworth via the Murray,Wentworth-Balranald (via Hay) to Sydney andWentworth-up the Darling via Bourke.

In the 1890s there were 92 paddle steamers workingthe Darling, and between 1890 and 1900 Wentworthbecame the largest river port in Australia with over 400craft using it in a year. The wharf became the nucleusof the town and the region, where bullock teamshauled in the wool from outlying stations to load onboard the steamers and barges. The port was a busyone; in fact in 1890 in 1 week alone some 31 steamerswere tied up at the wharf.

The exports that year were valued at £1,276,202 andimports worth £654,042, which were huge sums ofmoney. Wentworth’s Customs Office was the busiest inNew South Wales outside Sydney and Newcastle. Atotal of 420 boats steamed into Wentworth in 1890.

In the early 1900’s the first irrigation settlement in NewSouth Wales was commenced at Curlwaa, sevenkilometres east of Wentworth. Irrigation breathed newlife into the district which led to pastoral propertiesbeing divided into smaller allotments.

Near the Murray-Darling convergence you’ll find Lock10. Constructed in 1929, it is 827km from the mouth of the Murray, and the pool level is 30.8 m above sealevel. Picnic and barbecue facilities. The town erected a statue in 1959 in honour of the Fergie TE20 tractor,used for helping to erect a levee around the townwhich kept 1956 floodwaters at bay for months.

You’ll also find the Old Wentworth Gaol (1879-81)which features prison displays of the 1800s through tothe 1900s. Designed by the Colonial Architect JamesBarnet it has a central exercise yard and 6m high redbrick walls around the perimeter. The gaol inmatescame from as far afield as Broken Hill and Wilcannia. It was closed as a gaol in 1927. Opposite WentworthGaol is Pioneer World with interesting displays of theregion including the unique mega fauna such as theDiprotodon and Procoptodon (page 22).

Wentworth continues to be an important centre for thesurrounding landholders. It is a town steeped in historyand as a tourist area of great diversity, Wentworth hasmuch to offer including houseboats, watersports,history, clubs and galleries and wineries.

WentworthGateway to the Outback, Mungo and where the Murray and Darling rivers converge

OUTBACK & MALLEE - NEW SOUTH WALES

www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Wentworth Towns close by: Dareton, Merbein, Meringur, Cullulleraine, Werrimull, Buronga, Curlwaa

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The Murray River and Darling River converge at Wentworth, New South Wales. The meeting of the two rivers signifiesthe beginning of the Lower Murray River as the water colour lightens as represented on the Lower Murray River flag.

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WENTWORTH

Perry Sandhills

Vines of Curlwaa

PB Coonawarra on Darling River

Sunset at Mungo National Park

Wentworth Gaol

Canoe Tree at Thegoa Lagoon

Renmark takes its name from the Naralte Aboriginalword meaning ‘red mud’. The earliest inhabitants

of the district.

Although, there were white settlers in the area prior totheir arrival, the Chaffey brothers are honoured as thefounders of Renmark. Canadian’s George and WilliamChaffey were invited to Australia to create an irrigationcolony at Mildura. In the meantime, South AustralianPremier Downer contacted the Chaffey Brothers andimmediately made land available on the Murray. Theagreement to establish the Renmark Irrigation Colonywas signed on 14th February, 1887 which madeRenmark the first irrigation colony in Australia.

Charles Chaffey, the younger brother of George andW.B. Chaffey arrived in April 1888 and agreed to takeover the Renmark operation. He selected land andgave plans for the building of his home “Olivewood”to former Goolwa shipwright and carpenter A.F.Matulick. Charles returned to America and in October1888 brought out his wife Ella and son.

They resided in the Paringa Station Homesteadsituated close to where the Paringa Bridge is today,until they moved into “Olivewood” at the end of 1889.“Olivewood” was classified by the National Trust of SAand is on the State and Commonwealth Heritage List.At the rear of the homestead, the original olive oilprocessing shed has been converted into a museum.

Thirty thousand acres from the Bookmark Station leasewas granted to the Chaffey’s on which to build the newcolony. Vineyards and fruit blocks slowly emergedthroughout the district. In 1893, the Renmark IrrigationTrust was established to supply water to the growers,

and in the early years, it also played a role in theadministration and governing of the settlement.

In 1910, Thomas Carlyon Angove, Dr. Angove’s son,began pioneering wine growing in the Renmarkirrigation settlement. Soon after World War I thedistillery at Renmark began producing “St AgnesBrandy”, named by ‘Carl’ (Thomas) Angove, after hisfather’s St Agnes vineyards. Dr. Angove had named thevineyards after the little village of St Agnes, near hislast home in Cornwall. In 1965 the wine cask wasinvented by Tom Angove and patented. Today,Renmark is one of the strongest wine producingregions in Australia. The Riverland region accounts foraround 50% of South Australia’s wine production.

Initially, Renmark was almost a prohibition settlementbut in March 1897, a liquor licence was granted to theRenmark Hotel and it became Australia’s firstcommunity owned hotel administered by a trust.

Heading across to Paringa you’ll cross over theuniquely designed lift span Renmark Paringa bridgeopened in 1927. North of Paringa you’ll find CustomsHouse, Murtho Forest and Heading Cliffs. There is anexcellent viewing tower of the spectcular HeadingCliffs and Whirlpool Corner on the way to MurthoLanding which is recognised as one of the bestvantage points on the Murray River.

Looking across the Murray from the lookout are thelands of Chowilla Station and its interesting parstoralheritage. The homestead was established in 1864 andhas been held continuously by the Robertson familysince. Robert Robertson built Chowilla homestead on agreat bend in 1878. If you’re looking for a unique

experience you can stay at the Chowilla ShearersQuarters and experinece the region like the early days.

Renmark Paringa resides as part of the BookmarkBiosphere Reserve. It is an internationally recognisedworld leader among biosphere reserves for its efforts incommunity involvement and ecologically sustainabledevelopment. Bookmark is one of 12 biospherereserves in Australia and more than 300 worldwide. Itevolved in 1993 when the Australian Governmentjoined with the Chicago Zoological Society to purchaseCalperum Station. Calperum then merged with existingreserves and today covers an area of 9,000 squarekilometers (nearly 1 million hectares).

The biosphere contains the Murray River and itswetlands, rich floodplain with river terraces and vastwilderness of the Mallee including one of the largestremaining continuous stands of ancient mallee left inthe world. Because of this, it is home to a number ofrare and endangered species, some of which are nolonger found anywhere else on earth.

Nowadays the recreational experiences in and aroundRenmark Paringa are endless. There are galleries madefor browsing, fruit stalls to stock up on the district’sfamous products, beckoning wineries, billabongs andsecluded creeks to explore by canoe and kayak or rivercruise and diverse range of accommodation.

Experience the Murray with a great choice ofhouseboats. In fact, Liba Liba Houseboats pioneeredhouseboating in Australia in 1961 with their Ecocertified paddlewheelers. The town is also abundant inriverfront picnic spots. And be sure to set aside anhour or two to check out the thousands of varieties ofblooms on show at Ruston’s spectacular rose garden.

Renmark & ParingaAustralia’s oldest irrigation settlement

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www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Renmark Towns close by: Customs House, Meringur, Werrimull, Cullulleraine148

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Surnise on Renmark riverfront

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RENMARKPARINGA

The Black Stump, Paringa

Backwaters of Riverland Biosphere

Headings Cliffs & Whirlpool Corner

Sunset at Wilkadine

Argo Barge, PS Industry & houseboat, Renmark

Rustons Roses

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The town of Berri takes its name from the localAboriginal tribe ‘bery bery’ meaning ‘bend in the

river’. Up until the 1870s the area was part of theCobdogla sheep station and the home of theErawirunga tribe of Aboriginals.

In the days of paddle steamers it was one of thehundreds of woodpile locations along the Murray-Darling system and a mooring and refueling place.Berri lies on a large bend in the Murray, one of manysuch twists and turns that challenged riverboatskippers navigating this stretch of the waterway.

In 1910, irrigation was established and Berri wasproclaimed as a town in 1911. Irrigation subsequentlyled to the establishment of vineyards and fruit orchardssuch as citrus, apricots and peaches. Rail arrived in1928. The town’s population increased in the 1920sand 1930s with an influx of returned soldiers andpaddle steamers called regularly to collect the area’sdried and fresh produce for shipment to Adelaide.

Berri Estates was established in 1922, when a group ofgrape growers formed a co-operative distillery tomanage surplus grape production. Today the BerriEstates Winery is Australia’s largest single winery anddistillery complex, processing 70,000 tonnes of grapesannually. Berri is surrounded by over 3000 hectares ofirrigated orchards and has become notable as a fruitprocessing town. A large percentage of Australia’scanned fruit and juice come from Berri.

Transport from one side of the Murray to the other(Berri to Loxton) consisted of two parallel ferries. Thesewere replaced by a bridge in July, 1997. The bridgecost $17 million and 30 years of lobbying.

There’s a wonderful, meandering 2km riverfront walkfrom Berri to the popular recreational and campingreserve at Martin Bend, where you can sit back andrelax. Inspect the mural under the bridge that depictsthe Indigenous heritage of the area and visit the publicartwork that stands in tribute to Australia’s famousAboriginal tracker, Jimmy James (the second).

Jimmy James was a famous blacktracker, who wasborn around 1910 and belonged to the Pitjantjatjarapeople. He moved to the Riverland in the 1940s andtook his name from his equally famous father-in law. He was used extensively by the Police in SouthAustralia, Victoria, New South Wales and the NorthernTerritory, to track felons, escapees and missing people. A monument is sculptured out of 2 slabs of finelypolished black granite and engraved with images ofbirds and animals – a part of Jimmy’s spirit world.

There’s plenty to do in the area including excellentfishing, Lock 4, Lookout Tower, Martin Bend, BerriLimited the producer of the famous Berri fruit juicesand many other famous products since 1943 and BellaLavender Estate, Lavender Farm.

Just up the road is Wilabalangaloo Homestead andFlora and Fauna Reserve, a 100-hectare National Trustproperty and the banks of the Murray. Originally partof Cobdogla Station, the name Wilabalangaloo is froman Aboriginal word meaning ‘place of the red, yellowand brown stones’ reflecting the colours exposed inthe cliff face along the river. Wilabalangaloo is awonderful combination of a large historic homesteadmuseum set in a flora and fauna reserve with a markedwalking tracks and magnificent views of the river.

Close by is the Murray River National Park, Katarapko.This area is popular for all kinds of activities includingcamping, fishing, canoeing, bushwalking, bird watchingand picnicking. There is a 6km Mallee Drive that takesyou past a number of multi-stemmed trees, whichindicate you have entered the Mallee. It is possible tosee sand goannas, kangaroos and parrots resting orfeeding along this drive.

There are also a number of walking trails including: Kai Kai Nature Trail - an easy 30 minute walk; Ngak Indau Walking Trail - takes one hour; Cragg’s Hut Walk - an easy trail that takes one hour.

Proclaimed in 1940, Loveday is small town close by. It was the site of one of Australia’s largest internmentcamps during World War II. The camp was built tohouse German, Italian and Japanese internees andprisoners of war. At its peak, the camp held 5380 aswell as over 1,500 Australian Military Personnel andcovered approximately 180 hectares of cultivated land.The camps supplied a variety of products includingmorphine, which was made for the forces from theharvested opium poppies grown in the camp grounds.

Nearby is also Monash. Proclaimed in 1921 it wasnamed in honour of General Sir John Monash, a highlydecorated commander of the Australian troops inWorld War I. The General has also given his name tothe town’s Adventure Park. The park was opened in1996 and has rapidly established itself as theRiverland’s premier family destination. Entrance to thewonderland is free and the park offers a giant maze,leaning climbing towers, flying foxes, a tree house, arope bridge, basketball courts and just about any pieceof play equipment any child and adult could imagine.

BerriCosmopolitan town in the heart of the Riverland

OUTBACK & MALLEE - SOUTH AUSTRALIA

www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Berri Towns close by: Monash, Moorook, Glossop, Cobdogla, Kingston-on-Murray, Loveday

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Berri Estates

Murray River National Park - Katarapko

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BERRIBerri to Loxton bridge

View from Berri water tower lookout

Berri riverfront

Monash playground

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Loxton, a town in the South Australian Riverlandsome 260 kilometres east of Adelaide, has a

fascinating history. That story is about the evolution ofcommunity – a group of people committed to thebetterment of a district and to the care of fellowcitizens. That unique community has developed fromthe first days of European settlement.

The first European to arrive in the region was CharlesSturt, with his party, as he traversed the course of theMurray River in 1830. Sturt encountered manyindigenous Australians who had already, over millennia,developed a culture and society.

Other Europeans followed Sturt, leading to thesettlement of South Australia. Those Europeans weresoon in conflict with Aboriginal people.

By the 1840s, pastoralists were moving their flocks andherds to the district. For a few short years, a stockman,William Loxton, lived in a hut near the banks of theMurray and lent his name to it – Loxton’s Hut. By the1890s, political and social forces were urginggovernments to establish irrigation settlements near this place.

Farmers also had their eyes on the land aroundLoxton’s Hut and the government had some of thedistrict surveyed for agricultural settlement. The firstfarmers arrived in 1895. Many of these were ofGerman heritage and had a strong culture and senseof community. Some of them argued that a townshipwas required at Loxton’s Hut.

In 1907, the first blocks in that town of Loxton wereauctioned. The district flourished.

Then came the First World War. Unfortunately, some atLoxton were accused of supporting Germany andauthorities acted. In the confusion, many fine citizenswere interned. For nearly 2 decades – whichincluded times of fearful drought and depression –Loxton struggled.

It was the Second World War that sparked theresurgence of the region. A group of First World Warveterans envisioned a scheme that would providesettlement on horticultural blocks for those returningfrom war service. The South Australian andCommonwealth governments supported this schemefor an irrigation area in Loxton North. These settlers,from 1948, mixed with those of German descent and aprogressive community emerged. Those peoplechanged the face of Loxton.

This spirit continues in Loxton. In school, sport, localgovernment, business, farming and horticulture, thepeople are determined to grasp their heritage and tomove forward in trust.

Known as the ‘Garden Town of the Riverland’, Loxton’sbeautifully maintained gardens explode in a riot ofcolour all year round and are testament to the proudcommunity spirit that exists in Loxton. The Loxtondistrict boasts first class accommodation, uniqueattractions, a nationally recognised golf course, thrivingretail and business centre, wine tasting, numerousfestivals and events, beautifully maintained gardens,and a variety of nature-based activities such asswimming, boating, canoeing, fishing and bushwalking.

There are some wonderful experiences to also enjoy inthe region. Loxton Historical Village has over 35 fully

furnished buildings and sites exhibiting the farmequipment, machinery and household items used bythe early settlers. The Village is now home to the 1956Murray River Flood Photographic Exhibition - wonderat the damage depicted in these amazing photos.Watch the blacksmith at work, smell the bread baking.An adjacent extension to the Village provides a visualand tangible history of Loxton's development andirrigation practices.

Banrock Station Wine & Wetland Centre at nearbyKingston-on-Murray Banrock Station is the ‘jewel in thecrown’ of Riverland tourism and a ‘must-see’ while inthe Loxton district. Experience the self guided walkingtrails where you can get up close and personal to thespectacular wetlands and birdlife, or relax on thespacious deck and enjoy exciting regional cuisine whileenjoying a glass of Banrock Station wine.

Sport has always played a big part of life in Loxton andthe town boasts many first class sporting facilities. Thepicturesque 18 hole, fully turfed golf course is rankedin the top 10 courses in the state by the Australian GolfDigest.

Visit Loxton during December and experience the joyof Christmas as ‘Loxton Lights Up’ with the annual,award winning Loxton Lights Christmas Festival. Thisextremely popular 5-week festival has something foreveryone - from the young, to the young at heart.Christmas Wonderland, Big Santa, fireworks, craft fair,Santa's Walk, the Singing Christmas Tree anddecorated Christmas trees are just a few of thewonderful displays and activities on offer.

LoxtonGarden town of the Riverland

OUTBACK & MALLEE - SOUTH AUSTRALIA

www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Loxton Towns close by: Kingston-on-Murray, Cobdogla, Glossop, Monash, Lyrup, Lameroo, Pinnaroo, Loveday, Swan Reach

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Riverfront at Loxton facing Murray River National Park - Katarapko

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LOXTON

Roadside fruit stall

Pikes Creek near Lyrup

Tree of Knowledge

Black Swans, Moorook

Sunrise near Kingston-on-Murray

Roadside fruit stall

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Barmera is one of the most popular aquaticplaygrounds in South Australia. Situated in the

heart of the Riverland, Barmera is a pretty townsituated on the shores of Lake Bonney, a lakerenowned for its spectacular sunsets.

Lake Bonney is a fresh water lake fed from the MurrayRiver through the Chambers Creek wetlands. Becausethe lake is shallow and has a sandy bottom, it providessafe swimming and is ideal for sailing, windsurfing,canoeing, kayaking, skiing, jet skiing, boating andfishing. The lake also abounds with bird life.

It is unknown where the name “Barmera” comes frombut it is suspected that it means “water place” or “landdwellers”, being a word from a local Aboriginal group.Others postulate it comes from Barmeedjie, the nameof the tribe that lived to the north of the Murray Riverprior to European settlement.

Lake Bonney was first seen by Charles Bonney andJoseph Hawdon in 1838 droving cattle along theMurray River to Adelaide from New South Wales. Thelake was named after Bonney.

By 1855 the establishment consisted of a policestation, horse staging building, blacksmith’s andwheelwright’s shop and a general store. By the 1870sit was the recognised overnight camping spot.Sometimes up to 30,000 sheep grazed the river flatsnear the Overland Corner Hotel. 16km from Barmera,the Overland Corner Hotel was built in 1859 by theBrand Brothers for the pioneer pastoralist JamesChambers of Cogdogla Station. It catered for theoverland drovers and provide a staging point for thecoach route from New South Wales into South

Australia. It was delicensed in 1898 but continued as ageneral store and post office for many years. TheOverland Corner Hotel is now a museum but isprivately leased and operates as a licensed hotel. Thehotel was constructed of fossilised limestone 1.5mthick and is the oldest building in the Riverland.

An irrigation system was established in Barmera in1921. The town became gazetted and an influx ofWorld War I veterans settled with promises of irrigatedland from the government. A railway station wasopened in 1928 and the town was proclaimed as well.

Rocky’s Hall of Fame is situated in the main street ofBarmera, has a host of memorabilia for country musicenthusiasts including Rocky’s radio desk. Dean ‘Rocky’Page was a show business entertainer. Rocky wasinvolved in both TV and radio and including a nationaltour with Slim Dusty. Rocky also set up the first S.A.Country Music Awards held for 10 days in June. Thereare also many other events held in Barmera includingthe large Riverland Field Days in September.

The Nappers Ruins are located on the north side ofLake Bonney. The Ruins once stood strong as a hotelbuilt for former workers of Cobdogla Station. It wasoriginally called Lake Bonney Hotel. The hotel is nownothing more than ruins and includes interpretiveinformation around the site.

Nearby is also the Cobdogla Irrigation and SteamMuseum. It has approximately 12 open days a yearwhen the train and traction engine steam up for rides.The museum is the home of the unique gas drivenHumphrey Pump, the only working model in the world,which fires up four times a year on major long

weekends and also houses material and photographsfrom the Loveday Internment Camps.

The Donald Campbell Obelisk records the fact that thefamous English speedster, Donald Campbellunsuccessfully attempted to break the world waterspeed record on Lake Bonney in 1964. He reached347.5km/h but the lake was too small and the wavescreated by the speeding vehicle were too dangerous.

The Barmera region has some good wineries nearby.The Bonneyview Winery, the Berri Estates Winery atGlossop is the largest distillery in the SouthernHemisphere. Other wineries with tastings and cellardoor sales in include Norman’s Lone Gum Winery atMonash. Renmano and Angoves wineries at Renmarkand wineries at Loxton.

Visit Lock 3 on the western side of Lake Bonney. Thenative flora of the region is second to none. Giant riverred gums line the course of the Murray and there is amagnificent range of other native plants including redmallee, yorrell, oil bush, sugarwood, native boxthornand wattles. There is an abundance of birdlife thrivesaround the lake and in the creeks and wetlands as wellas along the Murray River itself, such as sulphur-crestedcockatoos, sacred kingfishers, crimson rosellas, pelicansand many other species.

Nearby you can explore Chambers Creek, Loch Luna,The Moorook Game Reserve and KatarapkoConservation Park which are all accessible and aboundwith wildlife. Canoe hire is available with or without aguide. Park Rangers are available for talks to groups bybooking in advance. The creeks and the river are idealfor fishing and yabbying.

BarmeraThe edge of an aquatic playground of Lake Bonney

OUTBACK & MALLEE - SOUTH AUSTRALIA

www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Barmera Towns close by: Moorook, Kingston-on-Murray, Cobdogla, Glossop, Monash, Overland Corner, Loveday

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Lake Bonney during a calm and still sunset in Barmera

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BARMERA

Rocky’s Hall of Fame

Barmera Cinema

Lake Bonney

Overland Corner vineyards

Lock 3Jetty at Barmera

The name Waikerie is said to mean ‘many wings’,after the giant swift moth ‘wei kari’, the name

given by the local Aboriginals. It’s an appropriatename, considering the teeming birds of the lagoonsand wetlands that edge the river. Aboriginals who livedalong the river then were of the Ngawait tribe. Theriver and surrounding land provided everything theycould possibly need. There were fish, shellfish, birds ofall kinds, kangaroos, native fruits and seasonal delightssuch as the “Waikerie” grub and moth. The Giant SwiftMoth Trictenna Argentata now known locally as theRain Moth, because of its habit of emerging from itscocoon in the earth following late autumn rains.

From about 1856 for approximately 60 years, paddlesteamers turned the river into a busy highway as theycarried passengers and goods to inland centres alongwith produce, wheat and wool to Morgan or Goolwaand overseas markets.

Due to the steepness of the cliffs Waikerie was neverconsidered as a river port. It was not until the 1880sthat people started moving into the area. In 1882 W.T.Shepard established the Waikerie station. His sonwrote: ‘A pine hut was then the only building on thespot’. Waikerie means 'anything that flies’ or is a wordthat indicates a favourite spot for wildfowl...he sankand equipped the first well. It is still known asShephard’s Well. He purchased the engine inMelbourne, and the whole concern cost him £1000.The natives called the well Marananga, meaning ‘myhand’, because the water could be drawn up by hand.

The township was established as an experiment indecentralisation (and partly to solve unemployment inAdelaide) when, in 1894, a readymade town of 281

people arrived in a paddle steamer. Fortunately theexperiment worked. By the end of the first year 3400vines, 7000 lemon and 6000 stone fruit trees had beenplanted. Waikerie was the first of the large irrigatedareas into the Riverland. By 1910 the township wasnamed Waikerie (after the station) by GovernorBosanquet and by 1914 the farmers were socommitted to their success that the first meeting of theWaikerie Co-operative Fruit Company (later to becomethe Waikerie Producers Co-operative) was held. Todaythe company has one of the largest fruit processingoperations in the southern hemisphere.

Enormous hardships faced these early pioneersthough. For the Village Settlements of Waikerie andnearby Ramco and Holder the boats travelling alongthe river were their lifeline to outside civilization. Noroads came near the settlements then. Duringemergencies if the river was too low for boats to run,someone had to walk north to the Morgan-Wentworthroad and stop a passing coach.

From the town’s lookout you can see towards the westorchards which were amongst the first planted byVillage Settlers. The all electric Pumping Station at thefoot of the cliff was built in 1965 to replace dieselpumping units which had in their time replaced theearlier steam engine and pump.

Waikerie is the only village settlement on the river toemerge as a major town with its own hospital andschools. Today the district of Waikerie covers an areaof approximately 3000km2. Approximately 5000hectares are irrigated producing wine grapes, citrus,almonds, fresh and dried stone fruits, tomatoes,rockmellons, vegetables, avocados, olives etc. Waikerie

is truly the centre of citrus and fruit industry in SouthAustralia sending thousands of tonnes of qualityproduce to Australian and overseas markets.

Eco-tourism is best seen at Birds Australia GluepotReserve 60km north of Waikerie, a bird watchersparadise. Described as “one of the conservationmiracles of the 21st century”, there are few areas ofthe world that support such a concentration ofthreatened species. On the Sturt Highway at Kingston-on-Murray is the world famous Banrock Station Wineand Wetland Centre. Sit on the deck, sample a wine,enjoy a light lunch or walk the wetlands trail.

One of the main features of Waikerie is the longstretches of scenic accessible riverbank, offeringendless opportunities for water activities and camping.The Waikerie riverfront has attractive lawned areas withBBQ facilities, boat ramps with a Lions playground andshelter to cater for all occasions and weather. You cancross the Murray here on the ferry. Be as active or asrelaxed as you wish, with lots to see and do not farfrom your base.

The district is full of wildlife, natural history andecological attractions that are very hard to surpass forbeauty, selection and availability. Brilliant weather allyear round ensures a most desirable climate foroutdoor activities during short or long stays. Waikerieis a centre that caters to the interest of a wide varietyof both visitors and residents alike and offers a greatchoice of restaurants, accommodation, hospitality andshopping. Call in on the Waikerie Information Centreand Orange Tree for local information and the hiddengems and experiences of Waikerie where you can alsostart the local cliff top walk.

WaikerieCentre of the citrus and fruit industry in South Australia

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156 www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Waikerie Towns close by: Ramco, Blanchetown, Swan Reach, Moorook, Kingston-on-Murray, Cobdogla, Glossop, Overland Corner

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Waikerie cliff top view early morning

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WAIKERIE

Sunrise at Waikerie near the ferryRoad to Gluepot Reserve

Road between Cadell and Waikerie

Waikerie oranges

Relaxing river at Waikerie

Murray near Ramco

In its hey day, Morgan was South Australia’s busiestriver port. The township is located on what is often

referred to as the Great Bend, the Great Elbow, ormore prosaically, North-west Bend on the Murray.

As early as 1851, land in the Morgan area was heldunder pastoral leasehold. The first attempts at sheepfarming at the Nor' West Bend Station wereunsuccessful mainly due to heavy losses of stock fromstarvation, ravages of wild dogs and poisonous weeds.

The township of Morgan was so named by GovernorMusgrave in honour of Sir William Morgan M.L.C., whowas at that time Chief Secretary of State, and latertwice Governor of S.A. The history of Morgan is a vitaland integral part of the history of the Murray.

Morgan was a government-surveyed town. Charles W. Smith, who surveyed the town in 1878 in amemorandum to the Surveyor General wrote from‘North West Bend’ stating the local Aboriginals calledthe site of this town ‘Koerabko’ which they said meant‘a great place for honey and meetings of the tribes’.

The South Australian Government of the day wasanxious to secure from Victoria and New South Wales amuch bigger slice of the river trade, and linkage of theriver to the capital by railway was obviously the answer.New South Wales had a rail linkage with the DarlingRiver at Bourke, and Victoria with the Murray at Echuca.It is not surprising then that the locomotive ‘Pioneer’made its first trial run to Morgan as early as 17th April,1878, and by that time a substantial part of themagnificent 30 foot high wharf was already in operation.

From then on Morgan was not to be left to growgradually and haphazardly, like many other country

towns. It planned for rapid growth. Within a couple ofyears goods traffic through Morgan grew to suchenormous proportions that 6 trains a day were comingand going from Adelaide. The 5 steam-operatedhydraulic cranes on the wharf were working 24 hours aday during the high-water season, with gangs of up to40 men working continuous shifts.

Boats and barges would be lined up for up to a 1/4mile along the bank, and none would have to wait longbefore being unloaded, and sent off again in search ofmore revenue-making cargo. Morgan, during the1800s was the home port of hundreds of paddlesteamers which carried cargo and passengers up theMurray-Darling River system. Those that succeededwent on to become small fleet owners, and formedcompanies like the Gem Navigation Co., Francis &Tinks, Bailey & Sons and Landseers.

It became evident that the small river-boat companieswere in danger of destroying each other. There wasbut one solution, amalgamation, and thus MurrayShipping Ltd was formed.

Eventually a unique and colourful era had come to agrinding halt. The furnaces went out, the smoke stacksvanished, the paddles stopped churning and the boatsand barges drifted to the banks to lay idle. The deckhands walked off, and the river transport finally ceased.

Morgan is also the site of the ill fated 1839 Mt BryanExpedition. Lt. Col. George Gawler, Governor of SouthAustralia instructed Captain Charles Sturt in earlyNovember 1839 to explore the land along the MurrayRiver up stream and overland from the great NorthWest Bend. On 11 December, Gawler, Sturt, Inman,

Craig and Bryan rode northwards to explore thecountry. The hot weather became intollerable. Bryancontinue on the journey and was never seen again tothis day. He has not been declared missing, presumeddead or a death certificate issued.

You can also enjoy the rich history of Morgan with ahistoric town walk. Morgan has preserved its historywith considerable flair and authenticity and the townwalk is a great way to explore the unique history of thisthriving community. Stop in at the Landseers’ buildingnow the Morgan Museum.

There are many reserves in the area; notable amongthese being Cadell, Morgan and Hogwash Flat. Acrossthe river from the town, Morgan Conservation Park is afavourite haunt for fossil fossickers.

Only a short distance from Morgan towards Waikerie isCadell. A best kept foodies Riverland secret. Beautifulproduce, outstanding wines and unique country townfeel. Cadell has a general store and licensedcommunity club, or you can enjoy the riverfront lawnsthat offer majestic limestone cliff views, a playgroundand free barbecues. There is the local wetlands, CadellMuseum, The Old Pumping Station Chimney andScenic Riverfront Walk.

Morgan, incidentally, is also the commencing point ofthe 320km Morgan/Whyalla Pipeline.

There is a good shopping supplies, two hotels, aswimming area, golf course, bowling club, caravanpark, camping sites and plenty of good fishing areas.The town is also great for watersports and skiers whoenjoy local riverfront accommodation and the riverfrontreserve for mooring.

Morgan & CadellOne of Australia’s truly historic towns

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158 www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Morgan Towns close by: Ramco, Blanchetown, Swan Reach, Overland Corner

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Morgan riverfront and a glassy river morning with the ferry wake. The building on the left is the historic Morganmorgue. It was erected in 1886. Victims of accidents along the river were taken there by steamer prior to burial.

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MORGANCADELL

Sunrise looking across at Morgan Wharf

Overlooking historic wharf, Morgan

Landseer Building

Morgan’s Railway Terrace

Cadell Interpretive Centre

Before settlers came to Mannum, the area wasinhabited by the Narraltie Aboriginal group who

lived in wurleys alongside the river. There are manyexplanations of the name “Mannum”, but the onefavoured by the local Aboriginal community is “theplace of many ducks”. Evidence of past Aboriginalculture goes back 6,000 years and more. In 1929 aboy’s skeleton was found downstream from Nildottie.Weapons and tools found with him were associatedonly with fossils at least 6,500 years old.

In 1840, James Henderson produced The Thirty NineSections Special Survey, which made available land forlease in the area. The first lease was taken up by thewell-known explorer, Edward John Eyre. In 1851pastoral leases classed as “Waste Land of the Crown”were issued and William Beavis Randell leased 34square miles from the present dry dock area stretchingeight and a half miles upstream. He gave his land thename “Noa No”. In 1853 the Hundred of Murray wasproclaimed and many new settlers took up leases,most running cattle on their land.

William Richard Randell worked at his father’s flourmillin Gumeracha, but dreamed of building a paddle-steamer and using it to trade on the Murray River. He, and his brother, Thomas George, together with acarpenter, built the frame and transported it to theirfather’s river property by bullock cart. There, theyfinished it and named it the ‘Mary Ann’ after theirmother. They launched the ‘Mary Ann’ at Noa NoLanding just upstream of the current Mannumtownship. It was to become the first paddle steamer toply the Murray, but was closely followed by the first ofa fleet of ships run by Captain Cadell.

To service his growing trade, William R. Randell builtthe Woolshed, the first building in Mannum. In 1864, agovernment survey identified an area downstream asthe site of the new town, but despite this, Mannumcontinued to develop in its original position.

The Shearer brothers began their agriculturalmanufacturing business in 1877, and at its peak, itemployed four hundred workers, selling out toHorwood Bagshaw in 1972. Among the Shearers’achievements was the Shearer Car, the first steam carin Australia with a differential. It took to the streets in1897, according to David Shearer it frightened thelocal residents and horses alike. The firm is alsocredited with revolutionizing farming, producing thefirst Shearer stripper in 1883, and designing a numberof machines to help the farmer tend his land.

Captain Arnold worked alongside the Randells in thepaddle steamer industry before buying the Dry Dock in1913. He was instrumental in negotiating contracts toship wheat during the war, and also built boats to beused in the river locks programme. Arnold’s shippingcompany was responsible for employing many men,and when the river trade began to fail, due to thecoming of the railway and the provision of muchimproved road transport, it must have caused a lot ofdistress to many families.

Mannum’s early pioneers were very communityminded, and many provided land, money and time tohelp the town. Arnold, for example, provided land forthe hospital, and a glance at the names on earlycommittees shows the dedication of the foundingfathers to a variety of activities, including churches, theshowgrounds, the Institute, schools and the Council.

The Mary Ann Reserve gives visitors an excellent picnicarea on the banks of the river, and cruising boatscalling at the wharf include the ‘Murray Princess’, the‘River of Murray Expeditions’, and the ‘Jester’.

The Mannum Dock Museum of River History is hometo the fully restored and operational paddle steamerMarion built in 1897. PS Marion is the third oldestAustralian vessel on Lloyds Register. You’ll also find theheritage listed Randell Dry Dock, Beam Engine anddisplays of River History including the devistating 1956floods. The accredited Visitor Information Centre is thegateway to the museum.

There’s a great series of historic walks around Mannumto enjoy where you can appreciate this town’s amazingand diverse history. You can also hire a canoe andenjoy the easy canoe trail where you’ll see an activeriver port. A short drive away you’ll find the MannumWaterfalls Reserve (flows with good rainfall) and offersa nice walk amongst granite boulders or take thescenic river drive up to Walker Flat. The region hassome interesting geological and fossil history including20 million year old fossilised cliffs.

The town has re-invented itself and is now a thrivingtourist destination. It offers a range of accommodationchoices and outstanding houseboat industry. It hasretained many of its original buildings which host avariety of interesting shops designed to appeal toresidents and visitors alike who can also enjoy excellentmeals in the many eating places. Sit back and relax bythe river at the Pretoria Hotel or grab a picnic andmake your way down to the Mary Ann Reserve andsaivor the relaxing beauty of Mannum.

MannumThe birthplace of Australia’s paddle steamers

GOLDEN LIMESTONE CLIFFS - SOUTH AUSTRALIA

160 www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Mannum Towns close by: Pompoota, Swan Reach, Blanchetown, Punyelroo, Wongulla, Younghusband, Walker Flat, Purnong, Bowhill, Mypolonga, Sedan, Palmer

MannumAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Mary Ann Reserve, Mannum

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MANNUM

View north of Mannum fromJester Cruises

Relaxing pelicans on Arnold Reserve

Mannum’s historic streescape

Murray near Bowhill

Sunset over Murray River and Mannum

Looking south with PS Marion in foregroundMary Ann boiler, Mannum River Dock Museum

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Murray Bridge has had many names during its time.The local Ngaralta tribe of Aboriginals called the

area, ‘Moop-pol-tha-wong’, meaning haven for birds.

The Ngaralta Aboriginals were one of 18 proud tribesknown as the Ngarrindjeri, who lived in the area fromMannum along the river, lakes and Coorong toKingston in the south east and Cape Jervis on theFleurieu Peninsula. The area was plentiful with food forthe hunters, who used spears, boomerangs andwaddies to kill game.

On 8th February, 1830, Captain Sturt’s party campedwhere Sturt Reserve is now. When the first resident in1856, Mr. George Edwards, bought property he calledit Coninka. The property was near what is known todayas Hume Reserve, just north of the 2 bridges. Stockswam across the river near the Edward’s house. At thesame time, the site was also known as the Turn-Off,because drovers would divert from the north toAdelaide, cross the river, or follow the river south.

The original township was laid out in 1883 and wascalled Mobilong adapted from an Aboriginal word andlater became Edwards Crossing. The land was sold inAdelaide in 1884 under the advertisement ‘Murraytraders, woolwashers, builders and all men ofenterprise. Give heed to what is now offered to you.’

When the first bridge was built over the Murray River(1873-1879), the town became known as MurrayBridge, but it was not until 1924 that the namebecame official. This developed the area as morebusiness was attracted when the railway crossed theriver. It was followed in 1886 by the Adelaide-Melbourne railway line which guaranteed Murray

Bridge’s importance as a vital link across the river wasassured. A dedicated railway bridge was constructed in1924-25. The Swanport road bridge was completed in1979 as part of the South Eastern Freeway.

Reclaiming swamp land began in 1905, followed byirrigation and agricultural development opened up theLower Murray in the early years of the 20th century.Murray Bridge became an important centre for tradeand milk production. A milk factory was established inMurray Bridge, milk being collected by boat fromdairies situated along the surrounding river flats. As theindustry grew, paddle steamers were replaced by afleet of motor launches owned by the milk factory andFarmers Union.

During the paddle steamer era, Murray Bridge was oneof the largest ports in the Murray-Darling Basin, alongwith Morgan and Echuca. Port Mobilong took the bulkof the trade from Mannum and became the terminalfor shipping downstream of Morgan. Grain, fruit, fishand wool from upriver were transferred by rail toAdelaide or Melbourne. In return general goods andhardware were off-loaded and delivered by thesteamers. In 1919 over 35,000 tones of freight wastransshipped across the wharf, with up to 16 trainsdeparting daily. During the 1920s and 1930s morewheat was moved across the Murray Bridge wharf thanat any other South Australian regional port.

Once the railway came to Mobilong, the timer wharfbecame one of the busiest along the river andcontinued to be actively used until the 1930s. The 2-level structure was a total of 355 metres long andserviced by two railway lines along its entire length.More than 6 cranes were used for the transfer of

freight and, in 1913 when the ware was lit byelectricity. Today the wharf is only one quarter of itsoriginal length and one crane remans. A railwayloading platform and a section of the line are still onsite. The wharf and cast iron crane, one of the earliestmanufacture in South Australia (1887) and is heritageprotected.

Today Murray Bridge is the heartbeat of the regionwhere families and visitors enjoy a vibrant river lifestylesurrounded by a prosperous growing region of primaryand secondary industry. It is a major agricultural districtwhich is driven by dairying, chicken raising, pigbreeding, tomato and snow pea growing.

Attractions include water sports, boating, fishing,swimming, motor sports, recreation, walking trails,restaurants. You can enjoy a unique river experiencewith a local canoe trail.

The Murray River is a picturesque sight of houseboats,paddle boats such as the ‘Captain Proud’ or take anovernight cruise on the ‘Murray Expedition’. Sit backand relax while observing the beauty of this beautifulregion. Just out of Murray Bridge there is open-rangeMonarto Zoo a breeding ground for arid and grasslandanimals. Many species of animals can roam this 1000hectare site. Tourists have the opportunity to take aSafari Bus around the park with a personal guide.Experience the fun of the Mallee quad-biking at MalleePark or try Dundee’s Wildlife Park. Dundee’s have freshand salt-water crocodiles in a controlled tropicalenvironment. Australian animals of many speciesincluding native marsupials, friendly black cockatoosand snakes and lizards.

Murray BridgeMajor agricultural production and a proud history

PLAINS, LAKES & MOUTH - SOUTH AUSTRALIA

www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Murray-Bridge Towns close by: Pompoota, Monarto, Mypolonga, Swanport, Langhorne Creek, Karoonda, Mount Barker, Strathalbyn

Murray BridgeAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Murray Bridge’s first bridge (left) was built over the Murray River (1873-1879)and a dedicated railway bridge was constructed in 1924-25.

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MURRAY BRIDGE

Sunset cruise on Captain Proud

Recreation on the Murray

Monarto Zoo

Aerial view of Murray Bridge

Cato

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In 1884 while laying the mainline through to theeastern state of Victoria, the track laying gang set up

camp amongst some native pine trees and naming thatparticular site ‘Pine Camp’ from then on the localtownship began to grow.

The name Tailem Bend came from the Aboriginal namefor this part of the river called ‘Thelum Ki’ which meansbent water, and over the years has had many debatesover the origin of it’s name and continues to this day.

The railways began arriving in the town in 1886 withthe Inter-Colonial line from Nairne to the border due tothe Eastern States linking to the river trade on theMighty Murray River.

Tailem Bend became a proclaimed town on 28 July,1887. From then on further lines stated to appear, upinto the Murraylands, Riverland and down to the SouthEast and by 1925 the workshops at Murray Bridge hadbeen transfered to Tailem Bend.

Some 30 locos had been stationed at Murray Bridge sothe workers had to commute between the towns onwhat was called “The Workies Train” 3 times a day tocover all the rostered shifts thus making Tailem Bendthe service centre for the Murray Bridge division of theSouth Australian Railways. Housing provided for alldifferent trades and operational workers with over 450employed in it’s hey day. The influence of the displacedmigrants in the 1950s caused another building boom inthe town with railway houses being built along with ahospital, all forms of shopping, sporting venues and agreat service by rail to city of Adelaide.

Schools were built so children could attend either theState or St Josephs Convent (closed in the 1980s),

however when they reached Year 7 they too had tocatch “The Workies Train” to attend high school inMurray Bridge. Tailem Bend has quite a few heritagelistings namely the Railway Station (built in 1913), theold ferry landing down on the river, The Tailem BendHotel in Railway Terrace was first licenced in 1902 andis still serving customers today.

Tailem Bend over the years has become a hub ofdestination. The Princes Highway that takes in theLimestone Coast and the Murraylands connectingAdelaide to Melbourne via Mount Gambier. The DukesHighway, connects Adelaide and Melbourne viaBordertown and Ballarat. The Mallee Highway,connects Adelaide and Sydney via Pinnaroo andOuyen in Victoria. Not forgetting Karoonda Road thattakes you to Loxton then to Mildura and on to Sydney.

Local Aboriginals have had a large influence in the areaand still have, to this day, with their sites of significancearound Tailem Bend and a shop called “Mamathang”.

There is a pleasant walking trail around the town whichtakes about a hour or a slightly longer walk along theriver. Starting at Tailem Bend ferry cross over to thetown of Jervois, that was once a thriving dairy townwith dairies stretching from Wellington to Woods Pointwhere the stories of “Milk Boats” are still talked about,the “wine glass” water tower, the old school built in1922, Jervois Institute and down to the River Flat Café.

Walk to Wellington where you will find the historicalhotel and Court House, have a meal or coffee and readstories of the area which started back in 1839.

Wellington had become one of the most importantsettlements on the Murray. The ferry also established in

1839 became the only point where traffic could crossthe Murray. In 1840 a township was surveyed andnamed after the Duke of Wellington. It grew rapidly asa major transportation stopover point.

Wellington was the first stop for paddle steamers onthe Murray north of Goolwa and Milang and it was alsothe stopover point for people crossing the Murrayfrom Adelaide to Victoria. During the 1850s, it becamean important point on the gold run from the Victoriangoldfields across to Adelaide. This was also thecrossing for the gold shipments that were taken toAdelaide during the gold rush days. The entrance toLake Alexandrina begins near here.

Here you cross the river again by another ferry thatthen takes you on to Tailem Bend taking in thePandaringa Arbitorium, down past the old Wellingtoncemetery and on through ‘The Pines’ as it was known.This will bring you out at the top of the river cliffs atFreds Landing giving you spectacular views of theMurray River. Then back to Tailem Bend.

On the South Eastern Freeway heading towardsMurray Bridge you’ll find the popular Tailem Town.Walk back in time to the period of 1865 to 1965. Thispioneer village is set over 20 hectares with 13 streetsand 102 buildings. All buildings have collectables,memorabilia and antiques. See Dawn Shepherd’scollection of free standing engines.

When you do visit Tailem Bend be sure to visit theVisitor Information Centre situated in the Old RailwayStation, take a look in the Railway Museum that haswell preserved and set up by the dedicated local ex-railway workers that still live in the town.

Tailem BendStrong, proud rail history and a hub of destination

PLAINS, LAKES & MOUTH - SOUTH AUSTRALIA

www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Tailem-Bend Towns close by: Wellington, Milang, Clayton, Langhorne Creek, Karoonda, Jervois, Lameroo

Tailem BendAdelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Aerial view of Tailem Bend

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TAILEM BEND

Tailem Bend Railway Station and Visitor Centre

Wellington ferry

Tailem Town

The name Goolwa comes from an Aboriginal wordsaid to mean ‘elbow’, describing the shape of the

bend in the river around Hindmarsh Island - or‘yesterday’. Sealers from Kangaroo Island wereprobably the first Europeans to visit Goolwa, possiblyas early as 1828.

Australia’s first public railway, horse drawn, was openedin 1854 to connect with the Murray paddle steamers,thus connecting river traffic at Goolwa with the oceanport of Port Elliot. This was Australia’s first example ofan integrated transport system.

In its heyday Goolwa was a thriving port which caterednot only for riverboats but also for boats entering theriver system from the ocean in the days when themouth of the Murray was wide and deep enough toallow such passage. The mouth of the Murray today,however, is now a small gap between the sand hills, adirect result of the numerous locks and weirs whichcontrol the water flow along its length. The Goolwawharf, built in 1852 saw the town thrive for the next 40years, making it one of Australia’s major river ports.Sixty vessels were built at Goolwa up to 1913 including37 paddle steamers.

Seawater is prevented from entering Lake Alexandrina,Lake Albert and the Murray by a 632m long barragesystem. Goolwa still has its past traditions ofshipbuilding, trade and transport, but is now a growingtourist and holiday centre, and the paddle steamers onthe river as a tourist attraction are a link with its past.

Goolwa offers a range of quality accommodationchoices. With a unique blend of historic attractions,fine food restaurants and stunning scenery making it an

ideal holiday location. It is also a gateway to theinternationally significant wetlands of the NorthernCoorong and the mighty Murray River and lakessystem. Charter craft such as the ‘Spirit of theCoorong’ also cruise the Lower Murray and Coorong.Goolwa is recognised as the nation’s small boat capital,and fittingly hosts the biennial Wooden Boat Festival.

Nearby you’ll find Milang on the shores of LakeAlexandrina. It, like most river towns began its daysduring the paddle steamer era. A few buildings of theperiod remain along with the restored railway stationand carriages. Artists have now taken up residence,but holiday time is when the town comes to life, beingonly one hour’s drive from Adelaide.

Randell Dry Dock located off Randell Street inMannum, was installed in 1873 by William Randell of‘Mary Ann’ fame. The dry dock was actually built atMilang, by A.H. Landseer, and towed across LakeAlexandrina by the steamer Nildesperandum. It wasduring the boom-days that the dock and wharf wereused to their capacity due to a huge trading enterprisebuilt by J.G. Arnold. The dry dock now has a heritagelisting at the Mannum Dock Museum of River History.

Close to Milang you’ll also find the beautiful wineregion of Langhorne Creek. Alfred Langhorne firstoverlanded cattle from Sydney in 1841, to a cattlestation, where the town bearing his name now stands.It rests in a fertile area on the Bremer River and is thecentre of renowned grape-growing and lucerneindustries. This floodplain area supports large river redgums and the lush vineyards of Bleasdale Winerymaking it an oasis in summer, while winter floods makethe area unpredictable.

Langhorne Creek has a number of historic buildingsdating back to 1850; the Methodist church, the hotel,general store and Bleasdale Winery. The townshipbecame a popular watering hole for the many SouthAustralians who sought gold on the Victorian fields.

Hindmarsh Island

Easily accessible from Goolwa over the HindmarshIsland Bridge you'll find a nice little corner of the

world to experience. From here you can also easilyaccess great beaches near the Murray Mouth andMundoo Barrage.

The first European to set foot on Hindmarsh Island wasCaptain Charles Sturt in 1830. Sturt used the Island asa viewing point and from there he sighted the MurrayMouth. The following year (1831) Captain Collet Barkersurveyed the Murray Mouth but was killed byAboriginals after swimming across the mouth.

The island was named by Captain John WilliamDundas Blenkinsop in 1837 after South Australia's firstGovernor, Sir John Hindmarsh. The Island also formsthe northern boundary for the Coorong National Park.

In 1858 the first recorded public ferry began operatingbetween Goolwa and Hindmarsh Island and the firstinter colonial telegraph line passed through HindmarshIsland, linking Adelaide with Melbourne. In 1935 theconstruction of the Goolwa and Coorong Barrages wascommenced and was completed in 1940.

Today you can relax at the Hindmarsh Island MarinaExperience the peace and tranquillity of waterfrontholiday apartments offering 4.5 star, self containedaccommodation. Relax in style.

Goolwa & Hindmarsh IslandGoolwa, the end of the Murray River’s long journey

PLAINS, LAKES & MOUTH - SOUTH AUSTRALIA

166 www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Goolwa Towns close by: Milang, Clayton, Wellington, Langhorne Creek, Strathalbyn, Victor Harbor

Goolwa/Hindmarsh Island

Adelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

Goolwa Wooden Boat Festival

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GOOLWAHINDMARSH

ISLAND

Spirit of Coorong at Murray Mouth

Aerial view Goolwa and Hindmarsh Island

Sunset over Hindmarsh Island Marina

Milang Museum

Goolwa Beach and Encounter Bay

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The Coorong is a place of tranquility, solitude and wonderment. A place thatcalms the mind, soothes the soul and appeases the senses. Venture into a

timeless, untamed wilderness and marvel at the diversity nature has provided.

The Coorong, derived from an Aboriginal word ‘kurangk’ meaning narrow neck,is one of the most breathtaking national parks in Australia. Be a guest of theNgarrindjeri people, the traditional custodians of these places for over 6,000years. The Coorong is of Aboriginal significance and renowned for itsarchaeological sites.

Investigate the long, narrow lagoon that runs parallel with the coastal dunes for140km. Travel a beach that stretches 200km from Encounter Bay to LacepedeBay, uninterrupted except when the mouth of the great Murray River opens tothe sea. Explore this vast wetland ecosystem that consists of ocean beach,freshwater lakes, estuaries, saline lagoon and river mouth.

A series of lagoons is separated by the sand hills of Younghusband Peninsulafrom the Southern Ocean, a place of beauty where the only sounds are those ofthe sea and the cries of more than 240 species of native birds many that migrateannually from Siberia, Alaska, Japan and China. Feel stillness and isolationexpressed in dry ephemeral salt lakes and ephemeral carbonate lakes.

This natural sanctuary is a breeding ground for giant pelicans, wild duck, shags,ibis and terns. See the changing sky refract off large shallow expanses of water infascinating ways. Perfect for beach fishing, canoeing and yachting, there arebeautiful camp sites, often off the main road. All attractions are accessible bywalking tracks, bush trails or 4WD marked tracks.

To camp in the Coorong contact the Department of Natural Environment or yourlocal agent. A fee applies for camping in the Coorong area. Fees apply tocamping in the Coorong National Park.

Meningie hugs the shoreline of Lake Albert. It is a thriving community withall the essentials for you to enjoy a genuine escape and time to relax,

learn and reconnect.

Situated at the northern end of the Coorong, Meningie combines all the charmof a small country town with stunning natural beauty of the Coorong andfreshwater Lower Lakes Albert and Alexandrina of the Murray River.

You’ll discover the famous Coorong Mullet is served at all the local eateriesand visitors are welcome to the 18 hole first class Lake Albert Golf Course.Visit the ‘The Chambers’, home to Coorong Cottage industries whichshowcases a wide selection of arts, crafts and souvenirs.

Camp Coorong, an Aboriginal Cultural Centre and Museum at Bonney Reserveon Seven Mile Road, has been developed by the local Ngarrindjeri people tohelp breakdown social and cultural barriers. Visitors can stay at the Centre andlearn all about the Ngarrindjeri 5000-year spiritual link with the Coorong.

There are a number of pleasant ring route drives along the shores of LakeAlbert, Coorong National Park and Younghusband Peninsula. In the area you’llfind Point Malcolm Lighthouse on the hill, Australia’s only inland lighthouse,built in 1878. Not far you can explore historic Poltalloch Station.

Pack a picnic lunch and set off for the day, or camp in the Coorong NationalPark over several days and nights (fees apply) and you'll soon discover whatCoorong Country is all about! Bird watching and bushwalking are popular withvisitors, who are spoilt for choice. With over 200 bird species recorded, and anumber of well signposted nature walks, binoculars combined with a littleeffort, patience and a good field guide will ensure a unique wildlifeexperience!

A stone's throw further south, just off the Princes Highway, at Hack's Point isthe Coorong Wilderness Lodge which is also operated by the localNgarrindjeri people. This Aboriginal Cultural Centre also offers the opportunityto learn first hand the Aboriginal heritage of the Coorong and surrounds,whether by word, on foot or by kayak! Stay a day, or as long as you like!

CoorongThe Murray meets the Southern Ocean

MeningieGateway to Coorong Country

PLAINS, LAKES & MOUTH - SOUTH AUSTRALIA

www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Meningie Towns close by: Narrung www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Coorong

Coorong/Meningie

Adelaide

Melbourne

Canberra

The Coorong and Murray mouth

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Sunset over Lake Albert, Meningie

Pelicans at Coorong

The Chambers, Meningie

Point Parika, Coorong

Camp Coorong, Meningie

Spiritual watersThe waters of the seas, the ‘Kuranghk’ (Coorong), the rivers and the lakes are all spiritualwaters for the Ngarrindjeri. They are a living body – ‘Yarluwar-Ruwe’ (sea country) – and theNgarrindjeri are a part of its existence. The Murray Mouth, the place where fresh and saltwaters mix, is a place of creation where their ‘ngartjis’ (totems, or special friends) breed.

MENINGIECOORONG

Camp Coorong, Meningie

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There was movement at the station, for the word had passed aroundThat the colt from old Regret had got away,And had joined the wild bush horses – he was worth a thousand pound,So all the cracks had gathered to the fray.All the tried and noted riders from the stations near and farHad mustered at the homestead overnight,For the bushmen love hard riding where the wild bush horses are,And the stock-horse snuffs the battle with delight.

There was Harrison, who made his pile when Pardon won the cup,The old man with his hair as white as snow;But few could ride beside him when his blood was fairly up –He would go wherever horse and man could go.And Clancy of the Overflow came down to lend a hand,No better horseman ever held the reins;For never horse could throw him while the saddle-girths would stand,He learnt to ride while droving on the plains.

And one was there, a stripling on a small and weedy beast,He was something like a racehorse undersized,With a touch of Timor pony – three parts thoroughbred at least –And such as are by mountain horsemen prized.He was hard and tough and wiry – just the sort that won't say die –There was courage in his quick impatient tread;And he bore the badge of gameness in his bright and fiery eye,And the proud and lofty carriage of his head.

But still so slight and weedy, one would doubt his power to stay,And the old man said, “That horse will never doFor a long and tiring gallop – lad, you’d better stop away,Those hills are far too rough for such as you.”So he waited sad and wistful – only Clancy stood his friend –“I think we ought to let him come,” he said;“I warrant he’ll be with us when he’s wanted at the end,For both his horse and he are mountain bred.”

The Man from Snowy River

A.B. ‘Banjo’ PatersonTHE BULLETIN, AN AUSTRALIAN NEWS MAGAZINE, ON 26TH APRIL, 1890

“He hails from Snowy River, up by Kosciusko’s side,Where the hills are twice as steep and twice as rough,Where a horse’s hoofs strike firelight from the flint stones every stride,The man that holds his own is good enough.And the Snowy River riders on the mountains make their home,Where the river runs those giant hills between;I have seen full many horsemen since I first commenced to roam,But nowhere yet such horsemen have I seen.”

So he went – they found the horses by the big mimosa clump –They raced away towards the mountain’s brow,And the old man gave his orders, “Boys, go at them from the jump,No use to try for fancy riding now.And, Clancy, you must wheel them, try and wheel them to the right.Ride boldly, lad, and never fear the spills,For never yet was rider that could keep the mob in sight,If once they gain the shelter of those hills.”

So Clancy rode to wheel them – he was racing on the wingWhere the best and boldest riders take their place,And he raced his stock-horse past them, and he made the ranges ringWith the stockwhip, as he met them face to face.Then they halted for a moment, while he swung the dreaded lash,But they saw their well-loved mountain full in view,And they charged beneath the stockwhip with a sharp and sudden dash,And off into the mountain scrub they flew.

Then fast the horsemen followed, where the gorges deep and blackResounded to the thunder of their tread,And the stockwhips woke the echoes, and they fiercely answered backFrom cliffs and crags that beetled overhead.And upward, ever upward, the wild horses held their way,Where mountain ash and kurrajong grew wide;And the old man muttered fiercely, “We may bid the mob good day,No man can hold them down the other side.”

When they reached the mountain’s summit, even Clancy took a pull,It well might make the boldest hold their breath,The wild hop scrub grew thickly, and the hidden ground was fullOf wombat holes, and any slip was death.But the man from Snowy River let the pony have his head,And he swung his stockwhip round and gave a cheer,And he raced him down the mountain like a torrent down its bed,While the others stood and watched in very fear.

He sent the flint stones flying, but the pony kept his feet,He cleared the fallen timber in his stride,And the man from Snowy River never shifted in his seat –It was grand to see that mountain horseman ride.Through the stringy barks and saplings, on the rough and broken ground,Down the hillside at a racing pace he went;And he never drew the bridle till he landed safe and sound,At the bottom of that terrible descent.

He was right among the horses as they climbed the further hill,And the watchers on the mountain standing mute,Saw him ply the stockwhip fiercely, he was right among them still,As he raced across the clearing in pursuit.Then they lost him for a moment, where two mountain gullies metIn the ranges, but a final glimpse revealsOn a dim and distant hillside the wild horses racing yet,With the man from Snowy River at their heels.

And he ran them single-handed till their sides were white with foam.He followed like a bloodhound on their track,Till they halted cowed and beaten, then he turned their heads for home,And alone and unassisted brought them back.But his hardy mountain pony he could scarcely raise a trot,He was blood from hip to shoulder from the spur;But his pluck was still undaunted, and his courage fiery hot,For never yet was mountain horse a cur.

And down by Kosciusko, where the pine-clad ridges raiseTheir torn and rugged battlements on high,Where the air is clear as crystal, and the white stars fairly blazeAt midnight in the cold and frosty sky,And where around the Overflow the reedbeds sweep and swayTo the breezes, and the rolling plains are wide,The man from Snowy River is a household word to-day,And the stockmen tell the story of his ride.

Painting : R

obert Lovell, Corryong C

emetery

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Go on...discover Australia’s great Murray River & Mallee

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For more information on the Murray River and Malleeregion contact a local Visitor Information Centre.www.MurrayRiver.com.au/visitor-centres/

IndexAboriginal 8-9, 24-27, 95Agriculture 21, 32-33, 115Architecture 38-39, 44-45, 86-87Boating 17, 81, 92-93Bridges 40-41, 106, 139, 127, 163Bushranges 42-43Chaffey Brothers 50-51, 144, 148Charles Sturt 46-47Cliffs 16, 34-37, 79, 104, 106, 157Dams, barrages, locks & weirs 60-63Explorers 31, 42, 46-47, 58Fauna 21-22, 30-31, 116Flora 21, 117Flags 18Floods 49Fog 98-99Fruit & Vegetables 32-33, 97, 102-103Golfing 76-77Homesteads 44-45Houseboating 70-73Icon Sites 28-29Irrigation 50-51, 144, 148Lakes 14, 155Mallee 108-117Man from Snowy River 43, 120, 170Maps 6-7, 20, 63, 110, 118-119Megafauna 22Mungo National Park 26-27, 147Murray Cod 94-95Murray-Darling Basin 20-21Museums 90-91National Parks 14-15, 26-29, 64-65, 114, 151Outback Murray River 78-81Paddle steamers & River boats 52-59, 69, 91, 106-107, 137, 161, 167Pelicans 16, 84-85Pioneers 43, 48, 50-51Pubs 86-87Red gums 100-101Reflections 104-105Sheep 89Signs 96-97Souvenirs 66-67Snowy Mountains 64-65Trees 29, 98-101Wine 74-75Wool 88-89

Discover Murray Riverand Mallee - images ofAustralia’s great river

The images in this book have taken manyyears to bring to you. Thousands ofkilometres, hundreds of hours and over 20years of photography experience to ensurethe river and mallee’s essence are capturedauthentically.

You can have your very own uniqueMurray River and Mallee photos. Many ofShane’s images adorn the walls of homesand offices in Australia and overseas.

Many of these beautiful photos are available online as digital images for sale.You can purchase a high resolution photo and create your own print. We canalso create signed poster prints which make the perfect and unique gift.

Visit www.MurrayRiverPhotos.com.au for orders and information.

9 7 8 0 9 8 0 8 0 2 9 0 0

Thanks, Mum

The Murray River and Mallee region is one of Australia’s great iconic landscape experiences. 65 million years of livinglegends. Unique environmental wonders, natural beauty, diverse communities and proud heritage. It holds much ofAustralia’s soul within its long, winding banks.

The region also offers unique adventures, cruises, canoeing, sports, Australian wildlife, wildflowers, secret fishing spots andMurray Cod, kangaroos, mallee fowl, goannas and teeming birdlife.

The Murray is beautiful with its golden limestone cliffs, rich ochre mallee, endless mountain ranges of green, goldenorchards, manicured vineyards, magnificent strong river red gums, national parks, quiet billabongs, towering forests and some of the biggest blue skies in the world. A 2756 kilometre journey through 5 wonderful Australian landscapes. The mountains, steep banks and river gums, outback and mallee, golden limestone cliffs and plains, lakes and mouth.

The river has it all. Good dining, diverse accommodation, luxurious houseboats, excellent golf and wine lovers playgroundor world-class eco-experiences. You will easily relax into our way of life. Experience it for yourself.

Visit www.MurrayRiver.com.au for more information.

Australia’s Murray & Darling Rivers at Wentworth