4 | Deeply Inspired

Master Control ChronographAutomatic movement

IN THIS ISSUE

On the coverGübelin Jewellery, Ornament of Flowers necklace with a Colombian emerald, 2.84 ct. Part of the beryl family, emerald is formed in the Earth’s crust with geological factors such as pressure, temperature, as well as a delicate mineralogical balance, between beryllium as a main element and chromium as a trace element

10 Green vision

From Cleopatra’s lost mines to oneof the most coveted coloured

gemstones today

14 Emerald season

Experience Zambia’s greenest timeof the year in a verdant landscape

rich with wildlife

20 An autumnal hymn

Colourful jewellery pieces inspired by lush gardens are aglow with the

warmth of nature

14

30 Beating heartThe Gübelin watch

atelier comprises a vast heritage of horological

expertise

36 Signature style

Elegance and technique go hand in hand in an everyday reality

at Piaget

10

20

6 | Deeply Inspired

62 Like having wings

Luzerner Sinfonieorchester takes flight with an exciting CD release

68 Delicate constructionsThe nature of haute horlogerie

combines craftsmanship, know-how and aesthetics

42

68

62

42 Over and above

Patrick Blanc’s vertical garden exalts biodiversity in the city

48 Place of origin

The Emerald Paternity Test provides a clear answer on gemstone provenance

hublot.com

Big Bang Unico Magic Sapphire.Scratch-resistant sapphire case.

In-house chronograph UNICO movement. Limited edition of 500 pieces.

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54 Setting sail

Ulysse Nardin is steering a course through the oceans of watchmaking

54

78 A trip to St. MoritzExploring the silent realm of the queen of the Alps,

the Arolla pine

82 Don’t miss

Personal recommendations off the beaten track

88Garden life

Enzo Enea carves a new living space in the midst of nature

92 Social agenda

Read about the latest happenings in the world of Gübelin

96 Next issue

Embark on a journey into the world of one of nature’s most dazzling

treasures, diamonds, which shine bright in Gübelin Jewellery

9

Raphael GübelinPresident

Dear Reader,

Ever since our inception in 1854, we have been deeply inspired by nature. From the fascinating mechanism of complicated movements in timepieces, to the multi-faceted beauty of emeralds in our Mystical Garden world, this issue explores greener dimensions from innovative perspectives.

As Gübelin Gem Lab pioneers the Emerald Paternity Test to provide unprecedented transparency on provenance for customers, miners, governments, traders, non-governmental organisations, jewellers and industry experts, you can witness the most verdant landscapes in Zambia and its rich wildlife during the emerald season.

Fall/winter is also a time to re-discover nature as the landscapes transform around us. We explore green havens in an urban setting, from Enzo Enea’s garden architecture and Patrick Blanc’s vertical gardens, to St. Moritz where winter sceneries are hallmarked by the Arolla pine, native to

the Alps. Come with us on our journey, through this issue’s haute horlogerie photoshoot, ‘Delicate Constructions’, spotlighting complicated watches against a backdrop of lush leaves, as well as fashion and jewellery on location at the stunning St. Charles Hall near Lucerne.

We are fully committed to transform inspirations into authentic creations, and in turn, we hope to inspire you to explore nature in all its fascination.

Enjoy your discoveries,

Raphael Gübelin

Limited edition of 88 piecesPerformed with winning race

tyre rubber

Beijing - Beverly Hills - Dubai - Geneva - Hong Kong - London - Macau - Moscow - New York - RiyadhSeoul - Shanghai - Shenyang - Singapore - Taipei - Tianjin - Tokyo

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1110 | Deeply Inspired | STONE OF THE SEASON

GREENVISION

Cheryl Chu

FROM CLEOPATRA’S LOST MINES TO ONE OF THE MOST COVETED COLOURED

GEMSTONES TODAY

Legend has it that the Egyptian queen Cleopatra had the green gemstones carved in her likeness to give to visiting dignitaries, so great was her passion for emerald. The coloured stones were supposedly found in Jebel Zabara, the world’s oldest mines, which Roman writers coined ‘Mons Smaragdus’ (Emerald Mountain), the only place where the emerald was considered sacred by the ancient Egyptian people and their rulers. In a hostile environment where the temperature often rises above 50 degrees Celsius and precipitation takes place once in a decade, the green gems from “Cleopatra’s lost emerald mines” represented the flooding of the Nile, fertility and immortality.

The emerald’s scarcity has long been recognised and recorded as far back as the middle of the fourth millennium B.C. in Ancient Egypt. It also symbolised cure and empowerment to the Romans, even protection against demons during

the Middle Ages. Due to its lush green colour and the soothing effect which it has on the eye and the mind, the emerald – derived from the Latin word ‘smaragdus’, meaning green stone – was also a symbol of foresight. Throughout history, well-known rulers like Cleopatra demonstrated their power with emeralds. Charlemagne wore an emerald-studded crown; King of the Irish Henry II was given an emerald ring as a symbol of his power upon his coronation. But the most impressive was on the other side of the world – in Colombia, where the Popayan people spent six years creating the Crown of the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception, known as the Crown of the Andes, with a single gold nugget, and adorned it with 453 emeralds.

Part of the beryl family, emerald is formed in the Earth’s crust with geological factors such as pressure, temperature, as well as the delicate mineralogical balance, with beryllium

as a main element and chromium as a trace element. Compared to the more common green beryl, emeralds have a higher chromium-iron ratio. From pale leaf to dark fir, the most-prized colour is a saturated grass green.

Due to geological, chemical and mineralogical combinations, inclusions are naturally formed throughout the growth of the emerald, and they can provide important information on its identity, authenticity and even origin – in other words, the gemstone’s own unique fingerprint. Microscopic observations of an emerald reveal garden-like inclusions inside, known as ‘jardin’. Like entering a lush green world filled with trees, moss, grass, flowers and countless vegetations, emerald inclusions are a microcosm of Mother Nature. Particular microscopic, chemical and spectroscopic features are commonly found in Colombian emeralds, such as three-phase inclusions.

For five centuries, Colombia has been the main provenance of emeralds. The mines of Chivor, Muzo and Coscuez had been worked for hundreds of years by the native people before the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors in the 16th century. Today, this South American country is still considered the prime provenance of emeralds, in addition to Brazil, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Ethiopia, Madagascar, Russia, Pakistan and Afghanistan.

Photo on pages 10 and 11, three-phase inclusions in an emerald from Colombia,

image courtesy of the Gübelin Gem Lab. Above, emeralds with different

cuts. Right, the Crown of the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception, created by the Popayan people, ca. 1660 (diadem) and ca. 1770 (arches), image from The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Opposite

page, multi-phase inclusions in a Colombian emerald, photo courtesy of

the Gübelin Gem Lab

12 | Deeply Inspired | STONE OF THE SEASON 13

“The gardens of the emerald

awaken the desire to wander at will,

delighting eternally in the fantastic,

constantly changing wealth of designs in their evergreen

vaults.”

Eduard Josef Gübelin

1514 | Deeply Inspired | TRAVEL

EMERALD SEASON

Mary Holland

EXPERIENCE ZAMBIA’S GREENEST TIME OF THE YEAR IN A VERDANT LANDSCAPE RICH WITH WILDLIFE

“Last night I fell asleep in my hotel room to the faint sounds of the village and I felt a million miles away from anywhere else in the world,” says the man from the back seat of the safari vehicle. As our vehicle creeps onto the ferry’s ramp, I see locals cleaning fish on the riverbanks and children splashing in the water: a window into daily Zambian life. The ferry, which works on a rope system, has to be manually pulled to reach the other side of the river. Once it touches dry land, the locals carrying their daily provisions pile off, and we follow in tow.

We continue to drive for roughly 40 minutes, past villages and small farmlands, until we enter the Liuwa Plain National Park – a moment that is almost unmistakable. Not because there is a glaring sign (quite the opposite: the sign is a piece of wood tacked to a tree that reads ‘boundary’) but because the

landscape changes from thick bush to plains of tall grass. I turn back to the man on the vehicle, who I have now learnt is a pilot and spends much of his time traveling extensively through Africa. “Why did you come here?” I ask. “Because it’s so wild. You just don’t get this kind of experience any more,” he replies.

Zambia is considered one of last remaining unspoiled safari destinations in Africa. Home to the wildlife-dense South Luangwa National Park and the remote Liuwa Plain National Park (among many others), visitors can pick from a multitude of safari experiences and activities, which are a lot less touristy than other destinations in East Africa. The South Luangwa Park, which became acclaimed for its walking safaris and excellent guiding, is crawling with game. “There’s just so much wildlife! You never know what to expect or what

Photo on the opposite page, by Will Burrard-Lucas © Time + Tide

15

will be waiting around the next tree,” says Shaddy Nkoma, Norman Carr Safaris’ senior guide. Norman Carr Safaris has been a pioneer in walking safaris in Zambia almost since its inception in 1950. Its holding company Time + Tide has a slew of lodges in Zambia, all of which are committed to community-based, sustainable tourism and conservation, with many community-based projects throughout Zambia.

17

“Zambia’s Liuwa Plain National Park has the

second largest wildebeest migration in Africa.”

16 | Deeply Inspired | TRAVEL

One of its shiniest camps, Chinzombo, is a 5-star lodge in the South Luangwa Park – the first of its kind in Zambia. The camp offers game drives, walking safaris, boat rides and sleep-outs under the stars. It is also open year-round; during the hot, dry months, and the emerald season (November to May) when the rains turn the landscape verdant with tall grass and lush thickets. 

While many would consider green season an unusual time to visit, the experienced safari-goer knows that with the rains come droves of bird species such as wattled cranes and the opportunity to see abundant sand lilies as well as lechwes, cheetahs, lions and packs of hyenas of up to 50 in a totally different landscape. In Zambia’s Liuwa Plain National Park, which has the second largest wildebeest migration after the Serengeti, visiting at the start of green season between October and November can be the most rewarding. It is at this time of year when herds move into the southern part of the park (where the only permanent lodge is located) to calve.

The Liuwa Plain National Park, with its endless fields of grass where one can almost see the curvature of the Earth, is one of the most untouched parks on the continent. Its only permanent camp, the brand-new King Lewanika Lodge, is innovative and eco-aware with a strong focus on supporting local communities. The lodge’s intention is to reduce its carbon footprint, using eco-conscious, modern and local materials. It is exclusive, but not over-the-top; spacious but intimate, featuring 5-star amenities and services. Unlike the South Luangwa Park, the Liuwa Plain Park is not teeming with game. A former hunting ground once rife with poaching, the park is still being restored. But while there will not be an animal behind every tree, when the animals do sneak up on you, it is so much more unexpected.

Curled up in my canvas room in the park one night, I wake to the sound of a lion roaring. It is so loud I bolt up and clamber for the light switch. My first instinct is to scream, but then, knowing I am perfectly safe behind the canvas wall, I think how lucky I am to experience something so wild, something you just do not get anywhere else in the world.

Photo on pages 16 and 17, Liuwa Plain National Park has the world’s second largest wildebeest migration, image by Will Burrard-Lucas. This page, top, sleepout, by Norman Carr Safaris; centre, King Lewanika Lodge; bottom, the lush landscape of western Zambia, location of King Lewanika Lodge. All © Time + Tide

18 | Deeply Inspired | TRAVEL

20 | Deeply Inspired | JEWELLERY 21

An autumnal hymnColourful jewellery pieces inspired by lush gardens

are aglow with the warmth of nature

23

On pages 20 and 21, Gübelin Jewellery: Ornament of Flowers drop earrings in platinum with two cushion-shape sapphires from Madagascar, 6.18 ct and 5.93 ct; ring in platinum with an oval sapphire from Madagascar, 10.08 ct; necklace in white gold with an oval sapphire from Madagascar, 4.11 ct. Dorothee Schumacher black and blue dress from Bongénie Grieder

Opposite page, Gübelin Jewellery: Ornament of Flowers drop earrings in white gold with two oval sapphires, 2.17 ct and 1.78 ct; necklace in platinum with a cushion-shape sapphire from Burma, 5.01 ct; ring in white gold with a round sapphire from Sri Lanka, 1.27 ct. Giorgio Armani black blazer from Jelmoli – The House of Brands. This page, Ornament of Flowers necklace in platinum with a round ruby from Mozambique, 3.35 ct; ring in white gold with an oval ruby from Burma, 1.71 ct. Elie Saab rose evening dress from Gross Couture

22 | Deeply Inspired | JEWELLERY

24 | Deeply Inspired | JEWELLERY 25

This page, Gübelin Jewellery: earrings in white gold with two step-cut diamonds, each 2.26 ct; Ancient Path ring in white gold with a step-cut pink spinel, 4.21 ct, and a step-cut green tsavorite, 3.55 ct. Valentino rose blouse from Bongénie Grieder

Opposite page, Ancient Path drop earrings in white gold with two step-cut emeralds from Colombia, 1.80 ct and 1.74 ct; platinum ring with a step-cut emerald from Brazil, 6.44 ct; necklace in white gold with a step-cut emerald from Colombia, 1.30 ct. Giorgio Armani black dress from Jelmoli – The House of Brands

2726 | Deeply Inspired | JEWELLERY

This page, Gübelin Jewellery: Ancient Path ring in platinum with a sugar loaf emerald from Colombia, 16.92 ct; drop earrings in white gold with two emeralds from Colombia, 1.21 ct and 1.47 ct. Akris brown dress and leather coat from Akris St. Gallen

Opposite page, Gübelin Jewellery: Ornament of Flowers drop earrings in platinum with two step-cut emeralds, 2.68 ct and 2.55 ct; Ancient Path ring in white gold with a step-cut emerald from Colombia, 2.34 ct; Ornament of Flowers necklace in white gold with a step-cut emerald from Colombia, 3.38 ct. Dorothee Schumacher green dress from Bongénie Grieder

On pages 28 and 29, Gübelin Jewellery: Ornament of Flowers drop earrings in white gold with two round emeralds from Colombia, 1.38 ct and 1.18 ct; necklace in platinum with a round emerald from Colombia, 2.84 ct. Carolina Herrera evening dress from Gross Couture

28 | Deeply Inspired | JEWELLERY 29

BEATING HEART

Isabelle Junod Hinderer

THE GÜBELIN WATCH ATELIER COMPRISES A VAST HERITAGE OF HOROLOGICAL EXPERTISE

33

The light is pouring in through the large windows at the Gübelin watch atelier in Lucerne. An array of precision equipment, as well as a large stock of original parts – for both historic and new timepieces – complements the traditional bench where Gübelin’s master watchmakers begin their days. With a unique know-how in horlogerie, they create bespoke pieces and take care of high-end watches. An average of 1,000 pieces per year arrive at the atelier for servicing. In particular, complications require detailed knowledge of the workings inside a movement. Watchmakers at Gübelin delve deep into every piece with the aid of their loupes, or microscopes connected to large screens that reveal the inner beauty of the mechanism within.

The Gübelin atelier services watches by Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Glashütte Original, TAG Heuer, Zenith and Gübelin, as well as vintage and antique watches and clocks. It has two of Switzerland’s only three watchmakers who are certified to service Patek Philippe’s Level 3 timepieces, in addition to the Genevan brand’s own master horologists. Attaining certification from Patek Philippe requires the completion of extensive training at the brand’s headquarters in Geneva, culminating in demanding examinations. A holder of Patek Philippe Level 3 Certification, Eugen Fink has been enriching his skills since joining Gübelin in 1992, not only through continuous training, but also by developing specific courses that address the changing needs of the watchmaking industry. He says, “You can differentiate between the technical specialist and the passionate watchmaker. In watchmaking you need both. The work of the technical specialist will be more repetitive. The watchmaker driven by passion will also work on the development and how things or processes can be improved.”

Photo on pages 30 and 31, inside the Gübelin watch atelier. This page, Gübelin watchmakers use an average of 40 tools for daily operations. Opposite page, a historical image of the Gübelin watch atelier from the 1920s

“With a unique know-how in horlogerie, Gübelin watchmakers create bespoke pieces and take

care of high-end watches.”

32 | Deeply Inspired | ATELIER

35

With roots that can be traced back to 1854, today the atelier utilises its watchmaking heritage in original creations as well as servicing branded watches and Gübelin vintage pieces. For example, two years ago it created a reproduction of the wall clock in the Gübelin boutique in St. Moritz for a Hong Kongnese customer who ordered it specially after admiring it. Around the golden clock with its unusual wave-profile bezel, a bas-relief sculpture depicts a sport – golf, skiing, ice-skating and so forth – at every hour. These 12 beautifully-crafted figurines are a tribute to St. Moritz’s year-round sports activities.

The atelier relies on its expertise in cases where damaged parts may have to be machined from scratch. The restoration of antique pieces requires not just technical expertise, but also a sensitivity to their history so that their value is not diminished. Gübelin watches – with unique designs, prestigious materials and in-house movements – have caught the attention of collectors at recent auctions. In May 2017, a Gübelin square-shaped chronograph from the 1950s was sold for 137,500 Swiss francs. The 18K white gold case, silver dial and Gübelin-manufactured Calibre No. 72 were signed. The shape and dimensions of the finely crafted case, 34 by 34 millimetres, were unique amongst chronograph designs of that era, and displayed the Gübelin watch atelier’s know-how. On another occasion, a Gübelin perpetual calendar pocket watch from about 1925 went under the hammer. Four subdials offered an easily legible display, along with the clear-sounding minute repeater mechanism and Art Deco-inspired numerals, which attested to the pocket watch’s quality.

“The repair of complicated watches can require a couple of months in our atelier, or more if a special part has to be made,” Fink explains. “We analyse each piece carefully in order to provide an estimate for the customer’s approval. This examination may itself take two or three hours. All the work that we perform is recorded in a detailed document. This enables us to keep track of maintenance and facilitate operations, even a long time from now.” The Gübelin watch atelier’s staff is accustomed to going the extra mile to meet the needs of its clients. “In some cases, we ourselves go to the homes of our customers to pick up a watch, and we take it back after servicing. Wristwatches are usually delivered to us via the boutiques, but other, larger timepieces are picked up by us. This is especially important for wall clocks, which may have to be kept in their original upright position even during transport.”

All this demonstrates Gübelin’s commitment not only to the brands that it works with, but above all to customers and collectors, with whom it has built a strong relationship over the generations and more than one-and-a-half centuries of watchmaking skills.

On these pages, clockwise from top, the Gübelin watch atelier today; master watchmaker Eugen Fink; a Gübelin square-shaped chronograph from the 1950s, image courtesy of Phillips auction house; carefully stored original components

34 | Deeply Inspired | ATELIER

SIGNATURE STYLE

Cheryl Chu

ELEGANCE AND TECHNIQUE GO HAND IN HAND IN AN EVERYDAY REALITY AT PIAGET

3938 | Deeply Inspired | WATCHES

This technical mastery, however, is always at the service of design, which has ultimate elegance as the absolute goal for its timepieces. The specific know-how of ultra-thin became a true signature of Piaget from 1957, with the launch of the 9P calibre, the thinnest manual movement, at only two millimetres. Three years later, the thinnest automatic movement of just 2.3 mm, 12P calibre, was launched. These two calibres started it all, and were followed by many records. Altiplano has won numerous international awards in the past 60 years. Today, the quest continues.

The reduction of component size is an area of expertise for Piaget’s research and development of ultra-thin watches, and specifically, the Altiplano collection, where elegance and thinness are the priority. The look of simplicity can be beguiling in an ultra-thin timepiece, as it conceals the paradox of being extremely complicated. Every single component has to be reduced to the maximum, without compromising the movement’s accuracy and durability, thus the challenge. Case in point: the Altiplano 900P watch. It revolutionised the traditional construction of a watch by blending the case and main plate into one. A milestone in innovation, the off-centre dial offers a unique aesthetical balance while unveiling the movement, distilling Piaget’s know-how in only 3.65 mm.

Photo on pages 36 and 37, Piaget Altiplano ref. 37132. Opposite page, the revolutionary construction of the 900P movement. This page, ref. 42052, one of the colourful novelties from the 60th Anniversary Altiplano collection

The Maison from La Côte-aux-Fées celebrates the 60th

anniversary of its icon, the Altiplano. Its continuous quest for thinness is celebrated with new limited-edition pieces. The new pops of colours are filled as ever with Piaget’s signature joie de vivre. This joy for life is shared by long-time collectors, new customers and charismatic clients who are part of the Piaget Society. The historical motto “Always do better than necessary” fuels the constant research for elegance, born from Piaget’s recognisable style and made possible by technical innovation. So eloquently expressed in its timepieces for men and women, timeless design is without doubt one of the first things that comes to mind when thinking about Piaget.

A look at Piaget’s rich heritage will reveal one of the important items that contributed to its style: the cuff watch. The pioneering concept which combined jewellery and watch drew from the manufacture’s time-honoured craftsmanship of hard stone dials and gold on one hand, and the production of movements on the other. Nature is also a source of endless inspirations for Piaget that has created many watches that embody the materiality, colours and textures of gemstones. Of course, the maison is also driven by the quest for thinness.

“Always do better than necessary”

Piaget’s historical motto

41

Ultra-thin calibres are not only a catalyst for Piaget’s expression of creativity, offering better legibility on larger dials, but they also open up the opportunity to innovate with hard stone or diamond-set dials. Over the years, the Piaget Style has turned purity into an artform, but with fresh colours and new creativity as seen in the Altiplano 60th Anniversary collection. The brightly coloured dials are inspired by hard stones, featuring sunray effect and a cross, 18K gold appliqué indexes, and the vintage Piaget logo with the word ‘Automatic’. As much a celebration of elegance as technique, the novelties are a vibrant tribute.

All the steps involved in the creation of a timepiece are mastered internally at Piaget’s two manufactures: movement production in La Côte-aux-Fées, and in Geneva, design, research and development, assembly and quality control.The conversation between the technical challenges and artistic dimensions begins from the very first sketch. One of the examples is the Calibre 883P, which powers the Altiplano reference G0A40030. At the source of any new development is the pursuit for pure lines. So, for every new Altiplano watch, a movement has to be specifically developed in order to fit the

case and proportions. In line with the motto “Always do better than necessary”, skeletonisation goes beyond. The references G0A37132 and G0A38132 demonstrate both technical prowess and aesthetical achievement, as well as beautiful movement finishings by hand that further attest to the skills of Piaget’s watchmakers.

Today, the heritage of Georges-Edouard Piaget’s historical manufacture is still at the heart of its mechanical movement production. Vintage pieces exemplify the continuation of Piaget’s spirit, expertise and heritage. What’s next for the maison? With the recent arrival of CEO Chabi Nouri, Piaget will continue to build upon its history and heritage, while spreading ever-refreshing joie de vivre around the globe with a timeless elegance that can transcend both changing times and tastes.

This page, left, Ryan Reynolds, Piaget international brand ambassador for watches; right, ref. G0A40030. Opposite page, ref. 42109, an Altiplano 60th Anniversary reference, featuring a sunray-effect dial

40 | Deeply Inspired | WATCHES

OVER AND ABOVE

Cheryl Chu

PATRICK BLANC’S VERTICAL GARDEN EXALTS BIODIVERSITY

IN THE CITY

45

Like a miniature forest, Patrick Blanc’s vertical garden stretches dramatically across the lobby lounge inside Hotel Icon, Hong Kong. Breathtakingly lush, the green wall adorns the hotel’s contemporary décor with rich textures. Here, Hoya bella, Medinilla magnifica and many different plants are thriving indoors, bringing biodiversity into the heart of a concrete-clad city. The French botanist, author, professor and lecturer has made verdant havens come true around the world. The inspiration of his vertical gardens can be traced to Mother Nature.

Having registered his patent over 30 years ago, Patrick Blanc observed that many plant species thrive on vertical surfaces in tropical or temperate forests, over ten families of which grow on limestone cliffs and cave walls. In the Philippine island of Palawan, Blanc discovered a Begonia species on the rocks surrounding a waterfall. Named after him, Begonia blancii also grows on tree trunks, in shades of green, red and brown, often with blackish, mottled or spotted patterns. Rocks provide the perfect habitat for the begonia’s tiny seedlings and roots to adhere onto the pores, crevices and indentations – in soil-less conditions.

Blanc’s home is a perfect example of biodiversity in an urban setting. His private office consists of a green wall, a double-height library, a curtain of Cissus sicyoides roots and the ‘Christarium’ – a platform aquarium on which his work desk is

Photo on pages 42 and 43, Hotel Icon, Hong Kong. Opposite page, Patrick Blanc’s office. This page, the botanist visiting the Singapore Botanical Garden; Rain Forest Chandelier, Bangkok. All images courtesy of Patrick Blanc

44 | Deeply Inspired | DESIGN

placed. Outdoors, his patio features Colocasia formosana and Fatsia polycarpa on both sides, as Iris wattii and Iris japonica flourish year round. On snowy days, the patio transforms into a true winter garden as lush greens are covered in white sparkles. Contrary to the horizontal distribution around the bottom of a tree where a thick canopyof leaves allows little growth underneath, plant species that grow on vertical surfaces receive light, water and minerals directly. Blanc elaborated, “Growing the plants vertically allows the penetration of the light almost everywhere on the substratum surface due to the fact that the plants are growing upright in an oblique direction, leaving some free space around their base. As a consequence, the light reaches most of the vertical substratum and many plants can grow side by side.” One of his newest creations, the Rain Forest Chandelier in Bangkok is the longest

free-hanging planted structure featuring ferns that thrive on cliffs and rocks situated near waterfalls, exposed to water sprays that vary from the dry to wet season, thus adaptable to indoor settings where irrigation is limited.

47

From Blanc’s first collaboration with Andrée Putman in 2001 on Pershing Hall’s huge green wall in Paris, to projects with Herzog & de Meuron such as Caixa Forum in Madrid, his vertical garden has given a greener dimension to urban architecture. Typically made of three parts, it has a metal frame, a foamed PVC layer and a layer of felt which weighs less than 15 kilogrammes per square metre. The metal frame is hung on the wall, providing a layer of air in between. The plant roots spread on a polyamide felt which is rot-proof and highly capillary, allowing an even water distribution when irrigated from the top.

As natural rain has a low concentration of nutrients, recycled or grey water collected from air-conditioners and rooftops is ideal for vertical gardens in the city. Pollutants stuck in the felt slowly decompose and become fertilisers. Together, the layers of air, PVC, felt and thousands of leaves act as an efficient thermic and phonic insulation system. During the change of seasons, it becomes an air-cleansing ecosystem and reduces energy consumption year-round, shielding the building from heat in the summer and keeping it warm in the winter. What is more is that since many more plants can thrive in a vertical garden, its high biodiversity can be introduced to the limited surface area of a building’s façade – perfect for big cities. “As an example, I have about 250 different plant species on my home vertical garden whereas the surface is only 60 square metres. It should be impossible to have so many species inhabiting a so small surface in the case of a horizontal garden.”

Clearly, the only way is up. Blanc observes: “Just one important thing has changed regarding the creation of vertical gardens since some tens of years: now we know that there are no limits to covering vertical surfaces with plants. No limits concerning size or height... No limits concerning the climate, one of them withstanding more than 50 degrees Celsius in Riyadh and some others thriving in cold places like Seoul or New York during winter… We can thus consider that, for about 15 years, cities have been turning green in the vertical garden way.”

46 | Deeply Inspired | DESIGN

“... now we know that there are no limits to covering vertical surfaces with plants.

No limits concerning size or height... ”

Caixa Forum, Madrid, a collaboration with Herzog & de Meuron, image courtesy of

Lauren Manning/flickr.com

49

PLACE OF ORIGIN

Cheryl Chu

THE EMERALD PATERNITY TEST PROVIDES A CLEAR ANSWER ON GEMSTONE PROVENANCE

51

Today, most consumers do research before making a purchase. Whether it is food or clothing, further knowledge beyond the list of ingredients or manufacturing labels can be easily obtained at a tap of your smartphone. While this is true for everyday products, it is not necessarily the case for jewellery. Where does your gemstone come from? How do you know with certainty? Beyond the gleam of the jewellery piece that you are holding in your hand, having clear information about its provenance is essential to its value, not only in today’s market but also for your own peace of mind.

In a pioneering effort to provide transparency for consumers and sustainability to the jewellery industry, the Gübelin Gem Lab presents the Emerald Paternity Test, which tracks the green gem to the exact mine from where it came. It is the first of a series of technologies developed by Gübelin Gem Lab, united under the Provenance Proof label. The idea: nanotechnology. For the first time, the Gübelin Gem Lab is using nanoparticles on gemstones to give consumers important information about their purchases. “Knowing the nanotechnology we are using is fairly new and its applications on gemstones is unprecedented, we wanted to start with something that works well,” explains Gübelin Gem Lab Managing Director Daniel Nyfeler. “Amongst coloured gemstones, the nature of emerald, from its geological environment to gemmological structure, is ideal for the paternity test. During its typical growth process, an emerald develops microscopic fissures that allow the nanoparticles to adhere firmly so that they will not come off during the jewellery-making process.”

Rough crystals are immersed in a liquid containing DNA-based nanoparticles, each no larger than 100 nanometres, which is less than 0.00125 of the diametre of a human hair. Encapsulated in a sphere of amorphous silica, the nanoparticles do not affect the stone after the liquid dries. Successful on-site testings at two major mines of responsible coloured gemstone sourcing – one in Zambia and one in Brazil – have shown that provenance information can be applied through nanotechnology without affecting the appearance, quality and properties of the stones. The nanoparticles in the emerald withstand the procedures of the jewellery-making process, from cleaning, cutting, polishing and setting to transportation. The DNA molecules can be decoded for information about the emerald at any time.

This page, clockwise from top, rough crystals quality testing; a closer look at emeralds in the host rock; nanoparticles encapsulated in amorphous silica. Photo on pages 48 and 49, the Kagem emerald mine, Zambia

50 | Deeply Inspired | SCIENCE

53

The Emerald Paternity Test is significant on two levels: not only has it introduced nanotechnology as gemstone tracers, it is also the first-ever independent proof of provenance that brings transparency – hence, facilitating sustainability – to the coloured gemstone industry. “Those who would like to obtain information from the stones that have the Provenance Proof label can submit them to the Gübelin Gem Lab in Switzerland, New York or Hong Kong. From the information read from the nanoparticles, we will then decode and find out the location and date of mining, or what other information has been stored in them,” Nyfeler explains. “We will give credibility to other coloured gemstones as well. Our journey towards greater transparency for consumer has begun with the creation of Provenance Proof, a trusted label which customers can rely on for clear information about gemstone provenance.”

The Emerald Paternity Test is a game changer for the coloured gemstone industry, offering transparency first and foremost for consumers, as well as miners, governments, trade and non-governmental organisations, jewellers and industry experts. Nyfeler concludes, “All other existing systems are declarations or papers that do not have independent control whatsoever on the correctness and accuracy of the information. The Emerald Paternity Test uses DNA-based nanoparticles that become part of the stone, creating trust and instilling confidence in the jewellery industry. Anyone in the supply chain can have a gem tested against what is being told to them.”

This page, clockwise from top left, the colours of an emerald; Gübelin Jewellery: Ancient Path ring in platinum with a green octagonal emerald from the Belmont Mines in Itabira, Brazil, 6.44 ct; the gemstone on a dop stick during the cutting process. Opposite page, an emerald mine in Brazil, image courtesy of Gübelin

52 | Deeply Inspired | SCIENCE

SETTING SAIL

Henry Neuteboom

ULYSSE NARDIN IS STEERING A COURSE THROUGH THE OCEANS

OF WATCHMAKING

5756 | Deeply Inspired | WATCHES

There is an anchor at the centre of Ulysse Nardin’s logo, and the company has long had a close association with the sea. From the mid 1800s, Ulysse Nardin’s marine chronometers were used by the Russian and Japanese navies as well as by countless other ships worldwide. In those days, such timepieces were essential for navigation and helped ensure the safety of ship and crew. By 1975, Ulysse Nardin had obtained 747 first prizes for precision in official observatory trials. Today, the brand maintains its marine heritage in watches that express its ongoing commitment to research and innovation. A good example is the Grand Deck Marine Tourbillon. With the teak decking forming the dial, and a boom indicating minutes, connected by tiny cables running through pulleys, it is like wearing a yacht on your wrist.

Not many watches succeed in embodying such a radically new method of displaying the time. The boom shows the minutes, gradually traversing from zero to 60, and then returning gracefully back to the start of the scale in a motion that lasts about five seconds. The hours are shown by a digital display. The boom is pulled by nanowires 0.0357 mm in diameter, in other words about one-third the thickness of a human hair. They are made of Dyneema, a material direct from the latest marine technology, used on the standing rigging of yachts because, weight for weight, it is about seven times stronger than steel. At the bottom of the dial, the majestic tourbillon recalls a yacht’s circular wheel, and with its 21,600 vibrations per hour, it keeps the watch on the course of time with absolute precision.

Ulysse Nardin’s development team has created unprecedented new escapements, incorporating the use of silicium, which offers many benefits in terms of time-keeping reliability. Silicium is hard and light, anti-magnetic, and does not require lubrication. In addition, components in silicium can be produced to a very high degree of precision. The equipment needed to manufacture parts in silicium is super-high-tech, and this provides the perfect illustration of the brand’s commitment to innovation within a frame of traditional watchmaking craftsmanship.

Another area in which Ulysse Nardin excels is minute repeaters, fascinating watches that can strike the time on demand. It was English clockmaker Daniel Quare who patented the minute-repeating mechanism in the late 17th century, and more recently, Ulysse Nardin was one of the first manufacturers to relaunch repeater wristwatches in the late 1980s. They went further by highlighting the chime of hours and minutes by the addition of tiny hand-crafted automata or jaquemarts on the dial. The watch becomes a miniature theatre, staging a multi-media performance that combines sound, motion, and exquisite engraving. Ulysse Nardin’s voyage of discovery, now helmed by their new CEO Patrick Pruniaux, takes them and their customers into fascinating oceans of time.

On pages 54 and 55, inside the Ulysse Nardin atelier. On these pages, clockwise from top left, part of the Ulysse Anchor Escapement in sicilium; CEO Patrick Pruniaux; Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon, a limited edition of 18 pieces in 18K rose gold, white gold or platinum, the jumping hour in a double window, 60-second flying tourbillon and minute on a graduated arc are all powered by Calibre UN-630; Hourstriker featuring horse jaquemarts, a limited edition of 28 pieces in 18K pink gold (or platinum)

5958 | Deeply Inspired | STYLE

Goldenlight

Cire Trudon

The Rolls Royce of candles. The

naturally-scented oils and beeswax

are contained in the iconic green glasses emblazoned with a

gold crest, creating an intimate atmosphere wherever they are lit.

www.trudon.com

Seato skin

La Mer

Dr. Max Huber’s renowned Miracle Broth contains sea kelp and natural ingredients. Start

fresh every day with the Lifting Eye Serum.

www.lamer.com

Tea timeWellmondo Tee

Creative tea. Organic thinking. Urban style. Holistic approach. Delicious taste.www.wellmondo.de

Let it snowZai ski

Playing in the snow, speeding down from the top of

the mountain. We are ready for winter –

with Swiss-made wooden skis.www.zai.ch

Vegan chicStella McCartney

Stella McCartney’s iconic Falabella is made from non-leather and

eco-friendly materials using highly-skilled manufacturing techniques.

www.stellamccartney.com

Play onPeople People

Made of recycled materials, this eco-friendly speaker in a transparent design is as much a

visual as aural delight.www.peoplepeople.com

Cuddle up Brunello Cucinelli

It’s the little things in life that matter. Soft textures, cosy materials and precious details from Brunello Cucinelli’s home collection. www.brunellocucinelli.com

Perfectglaze

Kure Bazaar

Inspired by street style combined with elements of nature, unique nail polish brand Kure Bazaar offers the

first eco-friendly, vegan formula. Try the colour ‘Green Love’.

www.kurebazaar.com

Il MetodoRossano Ferretti

The organic, sulphate-free shampoo by one of the world’s best hair stylists, who invented the famous ‘il metodo’ haircut, provides the perfect volume, even on rainy days. www.rossanoferretti.com

Touchof nature

Le Savon

The Zurich-based soap manufacturer uses natural ingredients of only the highest quality, offering

scents that let you delve deep into nature. www.lesavon.ch

Nel-Olivia Waga

In this fall/winter issue, influencer and entrepreneur Nel-Olivia Waga shows us what she’s inspired by: “Autumn is one of my favourite times of the year.

Nights become longer and the days shorter. Golden leaves decorate our

trees. It is a time that invites us to long walks in the forests, to cuddle up in soft cashmere and enjoy hot tea in front of a cosy fireplace. This season, two of my strongest topics are sustainability and

the future.” Photo credit: Ellin Anderegg

Gogreen Nature-friendly choices for fall/winter

Our jewellery is inspired by the fascinating inner world of coloured gemstones. Find out more about the Ancient Path emerald earrings at gubelin.com/mysticalgarden

A Swiss, family-owned firm since 1854

Gübelin_Anzeige_Mystical_Garden_400x285mm_ENG.indd 1 11.09.17 10:34

63

LIKE HAVING WINGS

Cheryl Chu

LUZERNER SINFONIEORCHESTER TAKES FLIGHT WITH AN EXCITING CD RELEASE

65

The Luzerner Sinfonieorchester’s beginnings at the turn of the 19th century have grown into an internationally-recognised symphony orchestra of over 70 international musicians to date, in addition to the guest artists invited to perform every season. “In the world of classical music, it is absolutely possible to marry tradition and innovation, because we have to know where we come from, to find out where we can go from there. We don’t have to feel apologetic for playing masterpieces by Beethoven or Mozart, but as those great composers are no longer alive to produce new pieces, we need to trust contemporary artists, and innovations have to be defined immediately.”

James Gaffigan also plays an important role in the Luzerner Sinfonieorchester’s innovation. Building upon its bicentennial heritage, the 38-year-old chief conductor has led the historical symphony orchestra on new tours around the globe and recordings. A widely acclaimed CD release entirely dedicated to contemporary composer Wolfgang Rihm and the second featuring Dvorak’s Symphony No. 6 and the American Suite are proof that the Luzerner Sinfonieorchester is as at ease interpreting the classics as new works. In line with its commitment to innovation, the Luzerner Sinfonieorchester will have its own rehearsal centre that serves both its musicians and provides education programmes for the next generation. Purpose-built for high-fidelity sound, it will also be a creative space for activities from backstage visits to on-stage participations. Children will be able to sit in the orchestra, or young musicians can try out a famous piece before hearing it performed by the Luzerner Sinfonieorchester.

Without doubt, Jean Nouvel’s vision of the KKL embodies tradition and innovation. The world-renowned architect recalled, “I went to Lucerne and was very surprised. I was fascinated by the vastness of the landscape, the mountains and the bridge... The new building should radiate a certain calm and absorb the landscape... One must not forget that the whole project is absolutely exceptional for a small town like Lucerne – a concert hall with 2000 seats and a set-up of this scale does not even exist in Paris.”

Photo on pages 62 and 63, audience in the concert hall of the KKL Luzern. Copyright: Switzerland Tourism/Lauschsicht. This page, Luzerner Sinfonieorchester Director Numa Bischof Ullmann, © Vera Hartmann. Opposite page, Chief Conductor James Gaffigan, © Vera Hartmann

Heritage and innovation have hallmarked the Luzerner Sinfonieorchester since its foundation in 1805. Following Napoleon’s Act of Mediation, which made Lucerne an independent canton, the city established its own symphony orchestra, for the love of the musical performing arts. “At the time, the people of Lucerne had the courage to come up with something that did not exist before,” Luzerner Sinfonieorchester Director Numa Bischof Ullmann expressed, “Today, it is important to carry on this spirit, and celebrate the years during which the symphony orchestra has been around.” Switzerland’s oldest symphony orchestra has much to celebrate: a new CD recording of Beethoven’s five piano concertos and main ouvertures with Sony Classical, to be released this season, as well as next year − just in time for the 20th anniversary of its home as Residenzorchester KKL Luzern, a recording of Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony will follow.

“What does Lucerne stand for today? The greatest artists of the 18th and 19th century, from English Romantic landscape painter J. M. W. Turner, writers like Tolstoy, to pianist, composer and conductor Rachmaninoff, were drawn to its natural beauty. We feel supported by all those who found inspirations in Lucerne and its people. The symphony orchestra benefits from generous private funding, thanks to the enthusiasm of private companies, such as Gübelin, who believe in this city, region and us as a cultural institution,” Bischof Ullmann continued.

“In the world of classical music, it is absolutely possible

to marry tradition and innovation.”

64 | Deeply Inspired | ART & CULTURE

The most striking feature of the KKL is the huge roof: 12,000 square metres in surface area and 2,500 tonnes in weight. It houses a concert hall, multi-functional space and art museum, the perfect metaphor of how Lucerne embraces both the traditional performing arts such as classical music and modern cultural diversity. Nouvel stated, “it is as if a wing were hovering over the building and over the lake... The moving water reflects sunshine on the underside of the aluminium roof.” The visionary design also has specific functions as a reverberating chamber that complements the orchestra sound. Bischof Ullmann concurs, “We benefit from one of the best concert halls in the world. We have a crystal-clear sound that is also warm at the same time – a very rare combination. Like looking at a gemstone, it is bright and has a colour that truly attracts you. The structure of a musical piece can truly be revealed with clarity. The same can be said about articulation and rhythm. When everything is clear, you experience sensations like having wings.”

E7EL3_200x285_p_img_en.indd 2 12.09.17 10:26

For the CD recording of Beethoven’s piano concertos, the Luzerner Sinfonieorchester began preparations one year before, from the chamber music performances on Mount Pilatus, against the backdrop of the historical hotel Pilatus-Kulm, to playing in small ensembles, and expanded them into full rehearsals. Chief Conductor James Gaffigan and solo pianist Oliver Schnyder teamed up to develop a common musical language and galvanised the whole orchestra. “The Luzerner Sinfonieorchester was founded during the years when Beethoven wrote the Fourth Symphony and his fourth piano concerto so we see him as a godfather figure,” opines Bischof Ullmann. “For the recording, we researched his overtures and the musical language which he developed. In order to get closer to what the concertos would have sounded like in Beethoven’s times, Oliver Schnyder chose a Bösendorfer piano from 1921. That has been a dominant element in the interpretation of the piano concertos, and you will hear it.”

66 | Deeply Inspired | ART & CULTURE

For the opening concert on 18/19 October 2017, French pianist Hélène Grimaud was invited to perform in Beethoven’s Piano Concerto No. 4 in G Major, op. 58. The programme also comprised Beethoven’s Symphony No. 4 in B flat major op. 60 and Richard Wagner’s 'Siegfried Idyll’.

Luzerner SinfonieorchesterPilatusstrasse 18, 6003 LucerneTicket office: Tel. +41 41 226 05 15www.sinfonieorchester.ch

Clockwise from top left, Oliver Schnyder, © Marco Borggreve; the KKL in Lucerne, © Switzerland Tourism/Ivo Scholz; Luzerner Sinfonieorchester with conductor Max Sturzenegger, 1939

6968 | Deeply Inspired | WATCHES

Delicate constructions

The nature of haute horlogerie combines craftsmanship, know-how

and aesthetics

PARMIGIANI FLEURIER, Tonda Chronor Anniversaire, ref. PFH282-1002400-HA4041A limited edition of 50 pieces celebrating Parmigiani’s 20th anniversary, the integrated chronograph is a useful everyday gadget and a superb timepiece. The in-house calibre PF 361 features innovative components for the chronograph, with split second, large date display functions on the same mainplate.

7170 | Deeply Inspired | WATCHES

PATEK PHILIPPE, Grand Complications Perpetual Calendar, ref. 5159G-001In this remarkably complicated retrograde date function, the date hand is disconnected from the drive train and stops at the numeral 1 in a precisely-controlled flyback motion along a 270° arch.

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN, Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month, ref. IW381701A flagship of the Ingenieur family. The IWC-manufactured 89801 calibre, with large digital date and month displays, stopped hours and minutes on a subdial, along with a flyback function, packs a punch.

7372 | Deeply Inspired | WATCHES

CARTIER, Drive de Cartier, ref. WGNM0005The clear layout of the dial – large date, retrograde second time zone, day/night and small seconds displays – is powered by Cartier’s self-winding mechanical movement 1904 MC.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE, Reverso Tribute Duoface, ref. 3902420 Tough and elegant, this watch exemplifies the Reverso tradition with the in-house calibre 854A/2, which displays the second time zone and day/night on a Clous de Paris guilloché dial on the other side.

7574 | Deeply Inspired | WATCHES

PIAGET, Polo S, ref. G0A42002Up to 50 hours of power reserve, the Piaget 1160P movement with a column wheel and vertical clutch powers the chronograph functions of this 888-piece limited edition.

ZENITH, Chronomaster El Primero Grande Date Full Open, ref. 03.2530.4047/78.M2530Nearly all of the complications are skeletonised in this impressive watch, which has a big date, moon phase and day/night displays, as well as chronograph functions.

7776 | Deeply Inspired | WATCHES

ROGER DUBUIS, Excalibur Spider Skeleton flying tourbillon, ref. RDDBEX0545The pared-down plates and bridges set a dramatic stage for the skeleton flying tourbillon calibre, RD505SQ with Poinçon de Genève finishings.

ULYSSE NARDIN, Marine Grand Deck, ref. 6302-300/GDLimited to 18 pieces, this watch has a patented time display. The boom is pulled by Dyneema nanowires to indicate the minutes, while the hour is shown by two concentric disks and the seconds by a flying tourbillon.

A TRIP TOST. MORITZ

Conrad Fleet

EXPLORING THE SILENT REALM OF THE QUEEN OF THE ALPS,

THE AROLLA PINE

81

St. Moritz is where winter tourism in Switzerland was born back in 1864, but there are many other things to do even if you are not a sports fanatic. Probably the most romantic option of all is a ride in a horse-drawn sleigh. You cannot get much more cosier than this: dressed up warm, wrapped in blankets and snuggling up to your significant other, looking up to the snow-capped mountains as the horses exhale clouds into the crisp morning air. A classic destination is across the frozen lake of St. Moritz and on to nearby Lej da Staz, a quiet and amazingly beautiful location where you have the impression that you are travelling back in time, into a silent land of snow, mountains and trees. Amongst which the Arolla or Swiss stone pine, Pinus cembra, whose timber has a wonderful resinous scent. As it is used locally for interiors and furniture, the Swiss stone pine helps give Engadine hospitality a distinctive fragrance. St. Moritz is also famous as an art centre. This winter, Galerie Peter Vann is staging an exhibition that features the Swiss stone pine. Artist Fabienne Clauss works in a style that evokes the silence and peace of the natural setting. “White has a double aspect,” says the artist, “it is the sum of all colours, but it is also the colour of light seen in its essence… white is above all light, quietness and peace… This landscape is not hostile. It is simply there – untouched, complete in the essential silence.”

At Galerie Tschudi in Zuoz, the location is as intense an experience as the artworks. Housed in a medieval building on the main square, the gallery presents works by artists of the calibre of Richard Long, Mario Merz and Sol Lewitt, with interiors dominated by stone walls and timber flooring. This season, Andrea Büttner, Su-Mei Tse and Kimsooja will be featured. Zuoz is also significant as location of the Engadin Art Talks. The seventh edition of this art and architecture forum will take place on the weekend of 27-28 January 2018, on the theme “Side Country Side.”

The queen of the Alps returns in another remarkable St. Moritz sensorial experience: a visit to a spa. Suvretta House offers an exclusive treatment with ‘ilā’ products that contain the fragrant essential oil of the Arolla pine. Locals fill pillows with fine Arolla pine wood chips, whose benefits include a reduction in heart rate, longer REM sleep, anti-bacterial effects, and an overall relaxation. The spa’s treatment helps the healing of muscle problems and injuries, in a setting that enhances the connection with nature and the mountain location.

Photo on pages 78 and 79, a view over Lake Silvaplana. In the background, the Piz da la Margna mountain © ENGADIN St. Moritz by swiss-image.ch/Daniel Martine. This page, a ride in a horse-drawn sleigh in the Roseg Valley, against the backdrop of the Sella mountain range © ENGADIN St. Moritz by swiss-image.ch/Christof Sonderegger. Opposite page, clockwise from top left, Peter Vann Gallery; paintings of the Arolla pine by Fabienne Clauss; Suvretta House Spa & Beauty; Zuoz and an event during the Engadin Art Talks, courtesy of the E.A.T.

80 | Deeply Inspired | CITY TRIP

UNIQUE EXPERIENCES:

PRIVATE SLEIGH RIDES:GIOVANOLITel. +41 79 634 30 74

MOTTITel. +41 79 681 20 68Tel. +41 81 833 37 68kutschereimotti.ch

ART:GALERIE PETER VANNSomvih 247525 S-ChanfTel. +41 81 850 16 20galeriepetervann.com

GALERIE TSCHUDIChesa Madalena · Somvih 1157524 ZuozTel. +41 81 850 13 90galerie-tschudi.ch

ENGADIN ART TALKSPlazzet Zuoz27-28 January 2018engadin-art-talks.ch

SPA:SUVRETTA HOUSE Via Chasellas 17500 St. MoritzTel. +41 81 836 36 36suvrettahouse.ch

ROSEG GLETSCHERIn the spectacular Roseg valley, you reach the hotel-restaurant on foot (one and three-quarters of an hour), by horse and carriage, or by cross-country skiing. The Pollak-Thorn family’s welcome is as warm as the interiors, and the menu comprises a sumptuous range of local dishes such as capuns or pizzoccheri, and game specialities. The restaurant is famous for its delectable home-made desserts. You could always walk back to burn off the extra calories.

DON’T MISS

Gübelin St. Moritz Boutique Manager

Marisa Blättler’s tips

St. Moritz is world-renowned as a jewel of the southern Swiss Alps in the Engadin. This boutique is

located in the characteristic Palace Galerie on Via Serlas, in the Badrutt’s

Palace Hotel.

RESTAURANT ALPENROSE Alpenrose has a long history, and philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche ate there regularly. Today it is much loved for its sophisticated twist on traditional Swiss dishes, coupled with international flair, topped off with an excellent selection of wines. The venue is relaxing and offers an enjoyable dining experience.

RESTAURANT DAL MULINIn a lovely timber-replete interior, enjoy flavoursome fare in which the preparation enhances the qualities of the ingredients. The extra-tender braised veal cheek seems like a match in heaven with fluffy mashed potatoes, and desserts are equally mouth-watering. The wine list is superb, curated by owner and sommelier Danijel Krasnic.

Zenith_HQ • Visual: CH1 • Magazine: Guebelin_Magazin (CH) • Language: English • Issue: 03/08/2017 • Doc size: 200 x 285 mm • Calitho #: 08-17-123614 • AOS #: ZEN_13721 • EB 02/08/2017

w w w . z e n i t h - w a t c h e s . c o m

CHRONOMASTER I Heritage 146

L E G E N D S A R E F O R E V E R

PERSONAL RECOMMENDATIONS OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Plazza dal Mulin 47500 St. MoritzTel. +41 81 833 33 66dalmulin.ch

Roseg Valley7504 PontresinaTel. +41 81 842 64 45roseg-gletscher.ch

Peider-Duri Witschi7514 Sils-MariaTel. +41 81 833 80 08restaurant-alpenrose-sils.ch

82 | Deeply Inspired | CITY TRIP

WELCOMETO

GÜBELIN

ZURICHSince its opening in 1932, the boutique, alongside exclusive designers, hotels and galleries, has hallmarked Bahnhofstrasse in the heart of the city.

LUGANO Housed in an early 20th-century palazzo, this boutique boasts a prestigious location on Piazza Carlo Battaglini.

Boutique DirectorGian Luigi Cavall iBahnhofstrasse 368001 Zur ichTel . +41 4 4 387 52 20gubelin.zur ich@gubelin.com

Boutique DirectorJean-Pierre Cr iblezV ia Nassa 276900 LuganoTel . +41 91 850 54 80gubelin.lugano@gubelin.com

8584 | Deeply Inspired | BOUTIQUES

Director Retail Stores Lucerne Roland ImbodenSchwanenplatz6004 LucerneTel . +41 41 417 00 10gubelin.luzern@gubelin.com

Boutique Director Mar tin HandschinFreie Strasse 274001 BaselTel . +41 61 307 56 20gubelin.basel@gubelin.com

Boutique ManagerAntonio Teixeira60, Rue du Rhône1204 GenevaTel . +41 22 365 53 80gubelin.geneve@gubelin.com

LUCERNEBoth boutiques on bustling Schwanenplatz are just a few steps from Lucerne’s iconic landmarks, Chapel Bridge and Water Tower.

BASELGübelin’s Basel boutique, opened in 1972, is located within one of the city’s oldest buildings.

GENEVA Opened in 1944, this boutique is located on Rue du Rhône, the city’s prestigious shopping street lined with late 19th-century houses.

8786 | Deeply Inspired | BOUTIQUES

HONG KONGGübelin’s by-appointment-only salon has welcomed connoisseurs in its cosy setting since 2013.

Deputy Boutique ManagerReno ChanGübelin Pr ivate SalonRoom 3405 -3406, 34 /FGloucester TowerThe Landmark15 Queen ’s Road Central Central , Hong KongTel . +852 2264 6898gubelin.hongkong@gubelin.com

Boutique ManagerMarisa Blät tlerPalace Galer ie V ia Serlas 297500 St. MoritzTel . +41 81 837 58 70gubelin.st.moritz@gubelin.com

Boutique ManagerNina SprengerBahnhofplatz 113011 BerneTel . +41 31 310 50 30gubelin.bern@gubelin.com

ST. MORITZThe boutique, which first opened in the Surselva House in 1931, is now in the Badrutt’s Palace Hotel.

BERNEOpened in 1967, the boutique is right alongside the city’s famous Hotel Schweizerhof.

BEYOND BOUTIQUESA NEW ERA FOR THE CONSUMER LUXURY EXPERIENCE

Gübelin’s core values are authenticity, expertise and inspiration. Hanspeter Pieth, Executive Vice President of Gübelin Retail, responsible for the eight boutiques in Switzerland, one boutique in Kuala Lumpur and the Private Salon in Hong Kong, adds three more words describing his work: transparency, honesty and passion. “We love what we do and we have the privilege of working with some of nature’s most beautiful gifts and man’s most amazing technical achievements. We want to share this passion with our guests in the boutiques.” Every day, Gübelin watchmakers, gemmologists and sales consultants are dedicated to revealing the exquisite craftsmanship of timepieces and jewellery.

Pieth’s long experience in the luxury sector in Asia has given him the conviction that “today’s luxury consumer wants to know and understand.” In Gübelin’s boutiques, guests learn about the story and background of products in an inspiring way. “The presentation is not just verbal: customers feel as if they are diving into a gemstone or watch. We hope that we can inspire them just as much as we are excited about jewellery and watches. Our vision is to constantly enhance the luxury consumer experience.”

Gübelin will be providing even more services through its e-boutique, Switzerland’s first for high-end watches and jewellery. For example, you can phone a concierge for more information, or schedule an appointment to view a piece in a Gübelin boutique. A reservation or purchase can also be made immediately. “We believe that we are at the start of a new era.”

KUALA LUMPURSince opening in 2012, Gübelin’s first boutique in Asia has expanded to over 170 square metres.

UG 31 Adorn Floor Starhill Galler y181 Jalan Bukit Bintang55100 Kuala LumpurMalaysiaTel . +603 2141 9669gubelin@mystique-universal .com

GARDEN LIFE

Cheryl Chu

ENZO ENEA CARVES A NEW LIVING SPACE IN THE MIDST OF NATURE

91

“Watch nature, learn from nature, and build with nature – that is Genius loci,” says renowned landscape architect Enzo Enea. His visionary designs around the globe have garnered awards from the U.S. and Brazil to Switzerland. With offices in Zurich, New York and Miami, Enzo Enea’s gardens transcend borders and boundaries. His Tree Museum combines landscape, botany, art, architecture and design, in Rapperswil-Jona where his headquarters and showroom are located. Home to over 25 varieties of trees, the museum also showcases contemporary sculptures – all “against an Alpine horizon, lending an arresting and striking tone to the finely-curated garden landscape,” Enea underlines as we explore his green world.

Following many years of experience observing, studying and working with trees, the Tree Museum is a natural extension of his work as a landscape architect and a tribute to nature itself. “In a series of open spaces we show our appreciation for trees by using them to create spaces in a unique way that integrates aesthetics, sustainability, history and the concept of a life time.” Approximately 50 trees transplanted here are professionally and safely preserved. The oldest one, a 150-year-old red Japanese maple, straddles the line between nature and art as its stature takes on a persona that fuels the imagination. Enea muses, “It

stands for the meaning of the Tree Museum like no other. Symbolically, we elevated and planted the maple in a gold-plated pedestal like a dignified king of the earth.”

Thus, it is “with admiration and respect for these most extraordinary creations of nature” that Enea creates a new vision of the garden – no longer a mere supplement for a building, but a true living space in its own right. Featuring the sculptures of contemporary artists such as Sylvie Fleury, Ugo Rondinone, Jaume Plensa, Cristian Andersen, Wilhelm Mundt, Madeleine Boschan and Stephan Balkenhol, the Tree Museum can be experienced like characteristically-styled outdoor rooms. In line with his vision, the ‘Enea Outside In’ store in Zurich that blends garden architecture, furniture collections and objets d’art can also be felt and lived like a garden.

What does it feel like to work with nature? “It is an infinite game of change. Light and shadow place us in direct contact with nature. Our gardens are designed to accentuate the beautiful play between them. We find out whether the shape and position of a shadow is related to the time of day and position of the sun to select the kind of trees, to plant them and to have a positive influence on the microclimate. With this knowledge we create a precise choreography between landscape, light and shadow, rooms, plants and flora for extended living spaces.”

Whether public, commercial or residential, “my signature is the seamless transition of interior and exterior spaces that integrates the soul of the project into its surrounding content. We create gardens and parks that improve your life, the life of your children and future generations. Life begins the day you start a garden.”

Photo on pages 88 and 89, ‘Mushrooms’ sculptures by Sylvie Fleury at the Enea Tree Museum. This page, left, landscape architect Enzo Enea; right, ‘Enea Outside In’, Zurich. Opposite page, top, Davaz Vineyard, Switzerland; bottom, the Enea Tree Museum. Images by Enea GmbH. All rights reserved

“Life begins the day you start a garden.”

Swiss landscape architect of the world’s elite, from Prince

Charles to the Queen of Bahrain, Enzo Enea received

an award of honour from the American Society of Landscape Architects.

He is currently working on projects in the U.S., China,

Russia, Brazil and Colombia. 

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1 1, 2, 3. Ulysse Nardin’s newest chronograph, the Marine Torpilleur, was first revealed at the Gübelin boutique in Lugano in June. 4, 5. The traditional Cohiba cigars from Cuba were among many highlights at the Zenith and Gübelin joint event in May in Berne. 6. Zenith Watches’s CEO, Julien Tornare and International Commercial Director, Nicolas Meda. 7. Guests of the VIP Summer Trip through Switzerland enjoy the rarities in one of the wine cellars at the Park Hotel Vitznau. 8. Raphael Gübelin, Wilvy Sy Gübelin and Hanspeter Pieth amongst guests. 9, 10. Raphael Gübelin and solo pianist Oliver Schnyder.

SOCIALAGENDA

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Gübelin offered a series of unique experiences during spring-summer 2017. At the Hotel Schweizerhof, where Gübelin’s Berne boutique is located, Zenith Watches showcased new timepieces, including the El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Cohiba Edition in collaboration with one of the world’s most prestigious cigar brands. On 22 June, Ulysse Nardin presented novelties from SIHH 2017 at the Gübelin boutique in Lugano. Guests had the opportunity to discover one of the new chronographs, and test-drive a Cantieri A. Mostes motorboat on Lake Lugano.

From 17 to 22 July, Gübelin and its guests from Hong Kong embarked on the journey, ‘Precious moments in Switzerland’. The discoveries of Gübelin’s worlds of jewellery – Deep Sea, Glowing Fire and Mystical Garden – are complemented by the many unforgettable sights, sounds and tastes of Switzerland, from its lakes and vineyards to the mountains.

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60 YEARS OF ADVENTURE AND DISCOVERY

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Tie the knotEmbark on a journey into the world of one

of nature’s most dazzling treasures, diamonds, which shine bright in Gübelin Jewellery.

We will continue to explore different dimensions, through travel, design, art and culture inspired

by spring/summer 2018.

Published by: Gübelin AG

Content by: LUXOS

Concept: Vincent K. Murphy

Chief Coordinator: Isabelle Junod Hinderer

Art Direction & Design: Anna Agostani

Contributors: Cheryl Chu, Conrad Fleet, Mary Holland, Henry

Neuteboom, Nel-Olivia Waga

Produced by: LUXOS Italia S.r.l.,

Via Pietrasanta 14, 20141 Milan, Italy, luxos.com

For: Gübelin AG

Printer: Grafiche Omnia, graficheomnia.it 

Language editions: English, German, French, Italian, Simplified Chinese

Jewellery Shoot:

Photographer: Darden Studio – dardenstudio.it

Art Director: Anna Agostani

Art Director’s assistant: Caterina Ceciliani

Hair & Make up: Lara Quercioli

Model: Laetitia Galina – fashionmodel.it

Special thanks: St. Charles Hall – st-charles-hall.ch (location); Akris, Bongénie

Grieder, Gross Couture, Jelmoli – The House of Brands (garments)

Watch Shoot:

Photographer: Tailer Studio – tailerstudio.it

Art Direction: Anna Agostani

Set Designer: Matteo Salvadori

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For more information: gubelin.com – Legal notice: no text or image in this document may be used or reproduced without prior permission © Gübelin AG 2017

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