NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, JODHPUR

Submitted to:

Mr. Yuvraj Garg

SEWING PRODUCTS AND MACHINERY EQUIPMENT CUT OUT PLAN

CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Cutting is the very first process in garment manufacturing. The cutting department receives

the fabric from the fabric department after inspection.

Objectives of the department

Cutting according to the master patterns with 100% accuracy.

Ensuring 100% quality in cutting.

100% issue of all the parts to sewing section.

The cutting floor is a combined unit for spreading, cutting, ticketing and bundling. The work

of cutting department starts right from the point of order being received from the buyer by the

merchandising department. The CAD department prepares the marker using the patterns

prepared by the Sampling Department. It also prepares the CAD-Consumption Worksheet

and makes estimation for the consumption of the fabric for that particular order. The results

are then communicated to merchandiser.

The cutting department unit is an advanced cutting unit. It uses advanced Gerber technology

for spreading and cutting. Manual spreading is also done here. Cutting department also has

straight knife and band knife. The model no. of these machines has been mentioned later in

this section. Band knife is used to cut small components like moon patch, placket, sleeves etc.

The capacity of the cutting department is 13000-16000 pieces per day.

Hierarchy of the cutting department

Head supervisor

Preparatory supervisor Cutting supervisor

Operator Operator

Cutting head

MATERIAL FLOW

The cutting department is divided into two parts one for spreading and cutting of solids and

other for stripes. For stripes both spreading and cutting is done manually. For solids

automatic spreader and CAM do spreading and cutting. The fabric that has to go for washing

is spread manually and cut into panels. For stripes 2 contractors have been employed. First

with 13 labors and second with 18 labors.

Issue of fabric from knits store

Cutting

Sorting & stickering

Spreading

Laying of patterns (if manual spreading)

Issue to the sewing department

Bundling

Relaxation

CPI (cut panel inspection)

Working procedure

Issue of fabric

Easing process.

Spreading of lay

Marker laying (in case of manual cutting)

Cutting of cakes

Sorting & stickering

Bundling

Issue to sewing room

For a particular order the amount of fabric, which is required for the order, is determined by

the PPC. In Arvind mills limited no extra fabric is ordered like in other garment industries

generally 5-10% extra is ordered. Since the fabrics presently were all from Arvind mills

textile unit only so no checking is being done. If fabric is taken from some other unit then

10% random inspection is done .if three roles simultaneously is found to be defective then the

whole lot is rejected.

The fabric is kept in shelves according to lot wise, roll wise and a report of the fabric

received is generated which contains information like lot number ,style number. The

information is kept with the store in charge.

Various Stages in Cutting Room:

When a particular order is approved from the buyer planning is made by PPC department to

execute the job. PPC sends batch order in knitting room for the fabric according to buyers demand. All the information related to fabric like GSM, die, shade, and quantity etc. is given

in batch order form.

A batch of knitting room is complete order requirement that consists of everything such as

fabric, trims (collar, cuff).

Knitting department completes the order and sends fabric rolls to the stores in cutting room.

Process flow of solids cutting:

Spreading on automatic spreader

CAM cutting

Ticketing

Bundling

Work on Cut parts (optional)

Inspection

Cut parts send to warehouse

The cut parts before inspection are also sent to embroidery, heat transfer printing, fusing and

in some cases bottom hem.

Process flow of stripes cutting:

Opening of fabric roll

Cutting of blocks

Making of pattern on block

Cutting

3 straight knifes are used for cutting of laid blocks. Shears are used for cutting of panels. A

piece of stripes is on the pattern given for matching by the Sampling department.

Fabric Stores:

Receiving of fabrics:

Fabric comes to stores directly from knitting house. For every particular batch samples comes

with audit report from audit department in process house of knits. Audit report contains all

information regarding the fabric and trims of that particular batch.

Storing of fabric:

Fabric; is stored according to the buyers name. Every buyer is allocated a specific rack in storeroom, so batch for that particular buyer is stored in that rack.

There is no further segregation in the warehouse area.

Issuing of Fabric:

Cut plan department sends the required k&p no. of fabric with other data to the store

incharge. Required fabric is then allocated to cutting room from the stores.

Fabric rolls are received in trolley. It is ensured that all fabric rolls are loaded uniformly. One

trolley carries a max of 15 rolls.

Easing Of the Fabric (Relaxation)

After the issue of fabric if fabric is single jersey it is taken for relaxation process.

Here fabric is simply unrolled by the machine.

In this section handling of fabric is done manually bare handed.

Marker planning and marker making:

Marker planning is done in other unit. In this unit, just arrangement of marker is done

according to the width of the fabric and gsm of the fabric. New marker is then uploaded in

the cam machine.

Lay planning:

Lay planning is done in data-entry department according to the marker plan and the order of

the customer.

Spreading:

The main objective of spreading is to spread the fabric lay accurately as per the length of the

maker with minimum waste at end of a lay.

Types of fabric laying:

Face to face alternative plies: For symmetrical pattern pieces, and fabric which is stable spread face to face, the fabric can be spread along face up and immediately

back again face down.

Face up alternative plies: For asymmetrical as well as symmetrical pattern pieces and fabric which is stable spread all the same way up, the fabric can be spread along and

immediately back again.

Face up all plies in the same direction: For asymmetrical as well as symmetrical pattern pieces and fabric which is stable all the same way up, the spreader spreads in

one direction only.

Face to face all plies in the same direction: For symmetrical pattern pieces, and fabric, which is stable face to face, the spreader spreads in one direction only.

Types of laying methods

Automatic spreading: Automatic spreader is used to lay honeycomb, pique, and single jersey

fabrics of both open width and tubular.

Automatic spreading

Manual spreading

Automatic Spreading:

Automatic spreading is done for the solid dyed fabric only. After relaxation of fabric; fabric

is kept on the spreading tables. From here they are loaded on automatic spreader.

Features of automatic spreader

MODEL: GERBER spreader SY101

Preset: it sets no of plies required

0 point: sets the position of the machine beyond which it cannot move

Allows zigzag and face one way laying

Has a sensor which stops the machine if it runs out of fabric

Dancing bar: checks the tension of the fabric while being laid

Distance to be traveled by the spreader i.e. the length of the marker is fed into the spreading machine system.

Maximum speed of the machine 100mtrs/min

Manual Spreading:

Manual spreading is done for the yarn died fabric and for the fabric that has to be sent for

washing. After the fabric is issued from warehouse, it is first blocked, then two persons lay

fabric according to the length of marker.

Generally lay is of length of one full piece of t-shirt. A layer of 65-100 pieces is made

according to the cut plan. During spreading all the plies are matched stripe to stripe on both

the sides by workers.

A separate room is allotted to stripe spreading, cutting and bundling the fabrics which were

yarn dyed.

Bundle checklist & Bundle card generation:

Bundle card is generated after the spreading of the lay is done. Bundle card is specifically the

information about that certain bundle viz; k&p no., roll no., pieces in that bundle, size etc.

this bundle card is made on the basis of the lay data.

Cutting:

Cutting is done by automatic CAM machine for all the fabrics except yarn dyed fabric. For

the yarn dyed fabric manual cutting process is used. In manual cutting machine lay is cut by

straight knife fabric.

Trims are cut on the band knife machine in a separate area according to the cut plan. Trims

are cut in accordance to the main body material of required piece.

Cutting on Automatic Machine:

First the lay is transferred from spreading table to cutting area.

First required cut program is selected form the CAD machine

Particular parameter is set on Gerber cutting machine according to requirement; it consists of speed of blade, area for movement etc.

The lay is cut in cakes of required

Numbering & Bundling:

After the layer is cut the cut pieces are sorted out according to the different rolls. The sleeves,

back, front, and placket pieces of one roll are kept together and the sticker which was used

during the laying of the layers is sticked on the cut pieces accordingly and the pieces are

bundled.

A job card is attached to every bundle. This job card contains all the information about the

bundle and plays an important role till the packing of the garment is done.

Fusing/Heat seal:

Fusing is done for the placket, cuff, and collar of the shirts. Different companies/ brands have

different requirement for fusing and heat sealing.

Heat sealed machine

Parameters required for the M&S

Time - 8 to 10 seconds

Temperature- 185 0C

Pressure 6 bar

Parameters required for Reebok international And Reebok Domestic

Time - 8 seconds

Temperature - 180 0C

Pressure - 6 bar

Slit making fusing machine

In slit making fusing machine folders are attached. Canvas and bone both are passed together

through the folder.

Bone width = 2.4 cm

Canvas width = 0.8 cm

Ready width of the slit = 1 cm

Machine name

HASHIMA HPM 600B

Parameters for fusing machine (slit making)

Temperature - 140 0C

Pressure - 2kg/cm2

Maximum pressure that can be used is 5kg/cm2

Pressure gauge starts from

1kg/cm2

2kg/cm2

3kg/cm2

4kg/cm2

5kg/cm2

Fusing machine for placket, collar etc.

Parameters are

Time - 5 seconds

Temperature - 150 0C

Pressure 5 kg

Cut parts inspection:

After all the parts are introduced in a bundle with the bundle card the bundle is checked

randomly. In cut parts inspection pieces are checked for the sizes fabric fault and cutting

fault. Nearly 10% of the bundles are checked.

Tally of the bundle with information on the job card regarding k&p no., shade, size and no. of

pieces is done. 10% visual audit is done. Check list is made here.

Observations & Suggestions

Fabric inspection department:

Fabric inspection is done for each and every roll from a batch. Inspection is done for the

fabric faults and to check the width of each roll of fabric.

But it was observed that every bundle was not being checked for the width.

Mostly due to workers being uneducated about faults many times roll with faults are passed over to audit department.

Sometimes due to lack of knowledge defected fabric is passed and for the same reason less defected fabric is bundled under defected category.

No humidity and temperature measuring instruments are available.

GSM of fabric is taken without drying it.

No instruction is given to rolling operator about the dimension of fabric to be cut for GSM measurement.

GSM of roll is taken from much localized fabric area.

Suggestion:

Each and every fabric roll must be checked for width at least two times; at start of roll and at middle of it.

Correct information regarding roll must be fed in slip.

It must be tried to check the GSM of each roll of fabric.

Employee education is very necessary here.

Samples of defected fabrics or photographs of them should be made available to operator.

Due to excess humidity and temperature, there are more relaxation allowances for worker which decreases overall on standard time.

Due to moisture contamination observed GSM of fabric may vary from actual one.

Due to unspecified dimension of cut part which is utilized for GSM measurement leads to fabric wastage.

Fabric audit department:

In fabric audit department 3-4 rolls are checked for width and gsm of the fabric along with

the fabric fault.

Many time GSM of the fabric changes from roll to roll and also in the same roll.

Same thing happens with the width of the fabric.

But as each bundle is not checked these faults pass unnoticed to cutting room

Suggestion:

Cut part which is chosen for GSM measurement should be taken from different location of fabric roll and avg of different measurement should be marked as GSM of

fabric.

Width of the fabric should be taken from different phases of fabric roll i.e. 1st check when 15 mts are roll is finish.

2nd

measurement should be taken at middle of rolling process and third at last.

Fabric Warehouse:

There is no check of fabric prior to storage in the warehouse.

Fabric is not segregated according to width or gsm of fabric.

Relaxation of the fabric:

No proper relaxation machine.

Machine that is used does not have proper attachments.

Fabric handle is done manually. This causes fabric disturbance and relaxed fabric is gets ruffled.

No accountability in this department.

Suggestion:

Spiral rollers should be used instead of plain rollers.

Tray should be used in which fabric is collected and loaded to spreading machine along with the tray.

Spreading:

Automatic Spreading:

Running speed of the machine is higher than required

Used speed of machine is very low in the range of 7m/min.

Spreading machine uses more workers than needed.

Spread of single jersey is very difficult due to above operations.

Achievable target is not achieved even after excess operators being implied on spreader.

Optimum lay length is 7-8m but here lay length sometimes is more than 10m.

Lack of attachments in the spreading machine.

Change in width and lack of data regarding the variation of roll width there is frequent machine stoppage; and sometimes even two or three plies have to be removed after

being laid.

Manual Spreading:

Excessive manpower allocated in this department.

Hand shears is used instead of end cutters leading to increase of manpower need.

In yarn dyed spread length is generally for a single piece of shirt leading in the need of excessive manpower for laying.

Shifting of the lay to cutting table:

While shifting of lay from spreading table to the cutting table air floatation table is not used properly.

Suggestion:

Decrease running speed of spreader, to avoid turning of plies upside down.

Keep length of spread between 7-8 m.this will help in faster and precise lay.

One operator should always travel along with the machine to fix any blockage in the passage of laying. At the beginning itself.

Spiral rollers should be used instead of plane surface rollers. To insure even lay.

Two different lays of tubular knits can be spread at a time to utilize maximum width laying capacity of spreader.

Spreading operator have no data about width of roll which causes spreading of rolls with different widths, this will create loss of fabric as marker is made according to roll

of minimum width.

Replace hand shears with end cutters. This will decrease labor requirement from 4 to 2.and will also increase efficiency of lay.

Instead of laying for single piece one can make a block for two pieces and after laying block can be cut and operated separately.

Before shifting of lay make sure that air flotation is on and running at highest level. This will decrease tension in lay due to pulling and also distortion in lay.

Problems faced in the cutting department

Bowing

This is a major problem faced in the cutting department while spreading. Variation in the

width of the fabric, which form an arc shape during spreading is said to be bowing effect.

Leaning

Leaning is occurred during manual spreading. In leaning the top ply of the fabric will be

slightly inside the previous ply. It is occurred due to improper laying.

Edging

It is also a problem faced in the cutting room. On every spread there is a plus/minus variation

of the edge of the fabric from the below lay of the fabric.

End loss

The fabric that extends beyond the marker patterns end is called as end loss. This occurred

due to improper laying of fabric lays.

End bits

Here in the cutting room we are getting end bits almost for all fabric Takes. After complete

laying of one fabric Taka, at the end we get a small piece of fabric that cannot be used for

laying which is said to be end bits.

Uneven tension

It is a spreading defect that arisen only when the layers lay fabric under improper tension and

creases are formed on spread surface.

Misalignment of plies

It is a spreading defect that arises when all the plies of the lays are of different length and not

lay exactly of same length as per table marker.

Spirality

Spirality of knitted fabric is obtained when Wales is not perpendicular to course, forming an

angle of spirality with vertical direction of the fabric. It affects generally single jersey knits

and produce serious problem during garment confection and use.

Problems occur due to Spirality are:

Mismatched patterns.

Sewing difficulty.

Displacement of side seams to the back and front of the body

Garment distortion.

Various causes of Spirality

Yarn twist:

The strong linear dependence obtained between fabric spirality and yarn twist show that the

main source of spirality is yarn twist. When a twisted yarn is knitted into a loop, it will have

a tendency to rotate inside the fabric in order to release its tensional strain during relaxation.

Stitch length:

Stitch length expresses the tightness of knitting construction. The fabric is as tight as stitch

length is low. The observed proportionality between fabric spirality and stitch length can be

explained by the fact that compared to tight fabrics, slack fabrics have higher stitch length

and then the yarn composing the loop has a higher tendency to rotate inside the fabric after

relaxation in knitted fabric construction. In a more tightly knitted fabric, the movement of a

knitted loop is restricted, and thus spirality is reduced.

Yarn tension:

The influence of yarn tension during knitting on fabric spirality has not been studied in

literature. The observed linear dependence between these two parameters is linked to yarn

deformation. During knitting, yarn undergoes an important tension. At high tensions, the

viscoelastic nature of the yarn causes yarn fibers to slip inside the structure. This slippage

straightens fibers and reduces yarn twist and then yarn tendency to rotate inside the fabric

after relaxation. This explains why at high yarn tensions, the fabric spirality is reduced.

Following are the factors causing delay in cutting department

Spreader stoppage because of nap direction

Defect marks

Splicing

Utilizing end bits

Paper work

Measure length and width of ply

Roll change

CUT OUT PLAN

Planning 15,000 Pieces of long length cargo (5 pocket) in one day

Marker type : Nap Either Way (NEW)

Min. No. of marker required : 3

Avg. consumption per cargo : 1.3 m (As it is 58 width fabric)

Marker length: 16 x1.3 = 20.8m

Table length = 21 m

Table width = 62

End loss : 0.04m (2cm from both end of ply)

Spreading mode = F / F

(As the fabric is of plain solid nature. So, F / F) mode of spreading would be easiest &

quickest)

Calculation:

In one lay we have 105 layers,

So,

Total no. of pieces in one layer = 16 x 105 = 1680

As we are performing the cutting and spreading process 3 times a day then total pieces made

in one day on 1 table = 5040 (1680 x 3).

So, we have used 3 tables for completing 15000 cargos in one day.

Equipments Required:

6 straight knife

3 band knife

2 fusing machine

10 gunner