166

Indian Lake

167

Indian Lake

ideal for setting top-ropes. But that changed with the route I Am Lesion, Harrison's nemesis that he tried re-peatedly. Each time he would climb a little higher, then jump into a nearby beech tree when he got scared. On his last attempt, with the beech tree out of reach, he realized "this is stupid, nobody will ever want to do this." So he downclimbed, jumped into the tree for the last time, and rappel-bolted the route. This route was a

transition where Harrison decided to create routes that others would want to repeat. This new way of thinking led to the post-2008 explosion of new routes at Crane.

Crane Mountain l Crane East l Measles Group Above-the-MeAsles WAllAspect South

Height 55'

Quality ê

Approach 20 min, easy

Summary A steep clean slab.1 1 1 1 1 5-5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10 5.11 5.12 5.13+ total

This steep, clean slab has the fewest pockmarks of the Measles Walls, making the routes here more typical of the region. Most of the routes are topropes on clean rock with no fixed anchors.

DIReCtIoNs (MAPs PAGes 142 AND 166)Follow the East Path to where it levels off at the mossy left end of the Lower Measles Wall—the first wall you come to on the East Path 584103,4821102. Go around the left end of this wall and up 80' along the path used

<<

<<

II

I

II

I

I I

II

< <<<

I I I I I I I I I I I

L M WOWER EASLES ALL

12

12 3

45

4

3

5

C M : A - -M WRANE OUNTAIN BOVE THE EASLES ALL1 The Flu (5.5)2 Trickagnosis (5.7)3 Mixamotosis (5.9)4 Resistant Strain (5.11a)5 Jungle Rot (5.10c)

ToEast Path

B SELLAVISTA LAB

B SELLEVIEW LAB

15

II

I

I I I I I

I

I I I I II

II I I

I

II

II

II

II I I I

I II I I

I

II

I I

12

57 8

9

43

wet spot

I I I I I I I

II I I I

II I I I I I

terrace

rappel tobase of

SlantingCracks

Wall

79 87 88 8992 96

9798 100 101

102104 105107

108 110 112

S C WLANTING RACKS ALL

B A WLACK RCHES ALL

M FAIN ACE

AMPHITHEATERISOBUTTRESS

B AELLEVIEW REA

I I I I I

I II I I

I

II

I

I I II I I I

I II I I

I I

1 O'Tom's Tick Twister (5.7+)2 Chess Club Crack (5.4)3 Discovered Check (5.8-)4 Giucco Piano (5.8)5 Belleview (5.9)7 Lawyers, Guns, and Money (5.10c)8 Belle Bottom Crack (5.6-)9 Also Ran (5.7)

15 Bella Vista (5.7)

79 Recuperation Boulevard (5.7)87 Here I Go Again (5.6)88 Amnesia Chasm (5.8)89 Drive (5.9)92 Amphitheater Crack (5.9)96 Four Ounces to Freedom (5.12d)97 Gun Show (5.10a)98 Torcher (5.10b)

100 Hang Time (5.11b)101 Black Arch Arête (5.10b)102 Sleepy Hollow (5.8)104 Parallel Passage (5.10a)105 Plumb Line (5.11a)107 Critical Crimps (5.10a)108 Second Job (5.8)110 Tilly's Trench (5.3)112 Reducto Adductor (5.10c)

B AELLEVIEW REA

M GEASLES ROUP

B A WLACK RCHES ALL

To:The Waterfall Cliff,

East Nose,Caterpillar Cliff

Note: not to scale

3

5

6

7

3 Straits of Fear (5.8-)5 Fits and Arms (5.6)6 Variety Crack (5.10a)7 Slabmeister (5.11a)

I

II

I

II

I II I I I

I I I

I

II I

II

I I I I I I

I I I I I

I I II I I

I

I I I I

)(swailbridge

slab

orangetower

boulder

II

I I I

I I

I I I

II I I I I

I

I

II

I I I

I I I II

I

I

I

I II

I

I I II

II

I

I I II

18

8stream

fire ring20 23

25

28 29

31

M GEASLES ROUP

B - -MELOW THE EASLESWALL

T -O- -M WOP THE EASLES ALL

U M WPPER EASLES ALL

Viewpoint8 Cracklosis (5.5)

18 Roped Bouldering (5.10c)20 El Muerte Rojo (5.6)23 Hydrophobia (5.3)25 Pimples (5.5)27 Pustulence (5.7)28 Lead 102 (5.2)29 Lead 101 (5.1)31 Social Climber (5.0)

L M WOWER EASLES ALLL M WOWER EASLES ALLL M WOWER EASLES ALL

17 min to trailhead

27

47 52

55 59 60

6364

66 67 68

6974

75PINNACLEOVERLOOK

S C COUTH ORNER LIFFS

L OAND OF VERHANGS

H L WEIGHT OF AND ALL

T P WEE EE ALL

L PONG LAYWALL

D R WIAGONAL AMP ALL

J WAMMER ALLA C WNIMAL HARM ALL

I

I I I II

II

II

S C COUTH ORNER LIFFS

talus

8 Blueberry Crumble (5.7-)9 Madame Blueberry (5.6)

10 BLC (5.7)11 Blueberry Tafone (5.6)12 Second Amendment (5.10b)14 Solar Grace (5.6+)16 Never Alone (5.7)19 Provando (5.7)20 Riprovando (5.10b)

21 Fireworks (5.7)24 Stand Your Ground (5.7-)30 Animal Farm (5.10b)34 Animal Charm (5.10c)47 Stairway to Heaven (5.8)52 Sauron's Bolt of Horror (5.10c)55 A Peney for Your Freedom (5.8+)59 Oddy's Crack of Horror (5.10b)60 Yodellaybackloon (5.6-)

63 Bodhi Tree (5.9)64 Induhvidual (5.7)66 Long Play (5.10a)67 Moehammed, Larry, & Curly (5.9+)68 Muckraker (5.9)69 Kill It Before It Spreads (5.7+)74 Leapin' Louie (5.10a)75 Keystone (5.10a)

I

I I II

I

I

I I II

II

I I I I II

I I I II

I

I I II I I I I I I

I I I II

I

I I I

8 910

11

1214 16

47

24 30

orangestrip

19 20 21

U P P E RW

AL

LS

P WROVANDO ALL

I I I I I

34

S C WLANTING RACKS ALL

m i l e s

1/8 1/40

Crane East

A - -MBOVE THE EASLESWALLS

S C COUTH ORNER LIFFS

to access the top of this cliff; the Above-the-Measles Wall lies just above.

1 the Flu 5.5 PG 30'start: 15' right of the left end of the cliff, below a hori-zontal crack 5' up.P1 5.5 PG: Up the rippled face past two horizontal cracks, then up the low-angle slab to the top. 30'FA Oct, 2008, Jay Harrison (solo)

2 trickagnosis 5.7 PG 40' êThere are many variations includ-ing a 5.10a toproped start that goes straight up to the exit crack.start: Same as The Flu.P1 5.7 PG: Go up a stepped, right-rising flake to a horizontal crack. Traverse right 15', then up a vertical crack to the top. 40'FA Oct, 2008, Jay Harrison (solo)

3 Mixamotosis 5.9 X 55' êêA good toprope route.start: At a clean water streak and a 4'-tall bulge at the base of cliff.P1 5.9 X: Make a boulder move off the ground, then friction up to a discontinuous, left-rising, hori-zontal crack. Follow the crack left-wards to a blunt arête, and climb this to the top. 55'FA Oct, 2008, Jay Harrison (solo)

Todd Paris on the beautiful dimpled face of H1N1 (5.8+). Photo by Jay Harrison.

B SELLAVISTA LAB

B SELLEVIEW LAB

15

II

I

I I I I I

I

I I I I II

II I I

I

II

II

II

II I I I

I II I I

I

II

I I

12

57 8

9

43

wet spot

I I I I I I I

II I I I

II I I I I I

terrace

rappel tobase of

SlantingCracks

Wall

79 87 88 8992 96

9798 100 101

102104 105107

108 110 112

S C WLANTING RACKS ALL

B A WLACK RCHES ALL

M FAIN ACE

AMPHITHEATERISOBUTTRESS

B AELLEVIEW REA

I I I I I

I II I I

I

II

I

I I II I I I

I II I I

I I

1 O'Tom's Tick Twister (5.7+)2 Chess Club Crack (5.4)3 Discovered Check (5.8-)4 Giucco Piano (5.8)5 Belleview (5.9)7 Lawyers, Guns, and Money (5.10c)8 Belle Bottom Crack (5.6-)9 Also Ran (5.7)

15 Bella Vista (5.7)

79 Recuperation Boulevard (5.7)87 Here I Go Again (5.6)88 Amnesia Chasm (5.8)89 Drive (5.9)92 Amphitheater Crack (5.9)96 Four Ounces to Freedom (5.12d)97 Gun Show (5.10a)98 Torcher (5.10b)

100 Hang Time (5.11b)101 Black Arch Arête (5.10b)102 Sleepy Hollow (5.8)104 Parallel Passage (5.10a)105 Plumb Line (5.11a)107 Critical Crimps (5.10a)108 Second Job (5.8)110 Tilly's Trench (5.3)112 Reducto Adductor (5.10c)

B AELLEVIEW REA

M GEASLES ROUP

B A WLACK RCHES ALL

To:The Waterfall Cliff,

East Nose,Caterpillar Cliff

Note: not to scale

3

5

6

7

3 Straits of Fear (5.8-)5 Fits and Arms (5.6)6 Variety Crack (5.10a)7 Slabmeister (5.11a)

I

II

I

II

I II I I I

I I I

I

II I

II

I I I I I I

I I I I I

I I II I I

I

I I I I

)(swailbridge

slab

orangetower

boulder

II

I I I

I I

I I I

II I I I I

I

I

II

I I I

I I I II

I

I

I

I II

I

I I II

II

I

I I II

18

8stream

fire ring20 23

25

28 29

31

M GEASLES ROUP

B - -MELOW THE EASLESWALL

T -O- -M WOP THE EASLES ALL

U M WPPER EASLES ALL

Viewpoint8 Cracklosis (5.5)

18 Roped Bouldering (5.10c)20 El Muerte Rojo (5.6)23 Hydrophobia (5.3)25 Pimples (5.5)27 Pustulence (5.7)28 Lead 102 (5.2)29 Lead 101 (5.1)31 Social Climber (5.0)

L M WOWER EASLES ALLL M WOWER EASLES ALLL M WOWER EASLES ALL

17 min to trailhead

27

47 52

55 59 60

6364

66 67 68

6974

75PINNACLEOVERLOOK

S C COUTH ORNER LIFFS

L OAND OF VERHANGS

H L WEIGHT OF AND ALL

T P WEE EE ALL

L PONG LAYWALL

D R WIAGONAL AMP ALL

J WAMMER ALLA C WNIMAL HARM ALL

I

I I I II

II

II

S C COUTH ORNER LIFFS

talus

8 Blueberry Crumble (5.7-)9 Madame Blueberry (5.6)

10 BLC (5.7)11 Blueberry Tafone (5.6)12 Second Amendment (5.10b)14 Solar Grace (5.6+)16 Never Alone (5.7)19 Provando (5.7)20 Riprovando (5.10b)

21 Fireworks (5.7)24 Stand Your Ground (5.7-)30 Animal Farm (5.10b)34 Animal Charm (5.10c)47 Stairway to Heaven (5.8)52 Sauron's Bolt of Horror (5.10c)55 A Peney for Your Freedom (5.8+)59 Oddy's Crack of Horror (5.10b)60 Yodellaybackloon (5.6-)

63 Bodhi Tree (5.9)64 Induhvidual (5.7)66 Long Play (5.10a)67 Moehammed, Larry, & Curly (5.9+)68 Muckraker (5.9)69 Kill It Before It Spreads (5.7+)74 Leapin' Louie (5.10a)75 Keystone (5.10a)

I

I I II

I

I

I I II

II

I I I I II

I I I II

I

I I II I I I I I I

I I I II

I

I I I

8 910

11

1214 16

47

24 30

orangestrip

19 20 21

U P P E RW

AL

LS

P WROVANDO ALL

I I I I I

34

S C WLANTING RACKS ALL

m i l e s

1/8 1/40

Crane East

A - -MBOVE THE EASLESWALLS

S C COUTH ORNER LIFFS

168

Indian Lake

169

Indian Lake

4 Resistant strain 5.11a tR 55' êêBegin at the low-angled, blunt arête on the right side of the cliff. Go up the right side, then move to the lower-angled left side, and work up to a high bulge with a long left-facing flake. Make a crux move over the bulge, and climb easily to the top.FA (TR) Oct, 2008, Jay Harrison

5 Jungle Rot 5.10c tR 40'Begin 40' right of Resistant Strain on a separate cliff and below the right side of an arête. Climb flakes and knobs on a steep wall then finish on the arête.FA (TR) Oct 27, 2008, Jamie McNeill, Jay Harrison

Crane Mountain l Crane East l Measles Group loWeR MeAsles WAllAspect South

Height 50'

Quality êê

Approach 20 min, easy

Summary Small slab with unique pocketed rock and some sport climbs.

4 1 510

-5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10 5.11 5.12 5.13+ total

This is a long, 50'-tall cliffband, the first cliff you reach on the East Path 584103,4821102. It is low and mossy at its left end. All of the routes begin on the path, which makes a nice open area to belay. At the low point on the cliff is a spring, near the start of Hypoxia; mov-ing right the terrain rises gradually past a deep corner (Cracklosis) on the left side of the detached Cracklosis Block. The terrain on the right side of the cliff slopes steeply uphill below a steep, sheer slab uniformly cov-ered in shallow pockets and dimples; several sus-tained routes ascend this face.

DesCeNt oPtIoNsIt is easy to walk off of ei-ther end of the cliff and there are many trees from which to anchor. There are fixed anchors on top of the right-hand routes.

6 hypoxia 5.5 R 30'On the most pocketed section of the cliff. Often moss-covered.start: Immediately right of the spring that flows from below the low point of the cliff.P1 5.5 R: Up the face to an overlap. Move up and left over the overlap, then up to the top. 30'FA 2005, Jay Harrison (solo)

7 Run for Rabies 5.6 R 35' êstart: 8' right of Hypoxia at a left-facing, left-leaning corner.

P1 5.6 R: Up the corner to a right-leaning crack. Step left and go over the crack, then climb to the top. 35'FA 2005, Jay Harrison (solo)

8 Cracklosis 5.5 G 55' êêA good beginner lead. The variation makes for a good toprope introduction to pocketed face climbing.start: 25' right of Hypoxia at an offwidth crack in a left-facing corner, which is the left side of the Cracklosis Block.P1 5.5 G: (V1) Up the corner to a ledge, then up a thin crack and slab to the top. 55'v1 scared for life 5.8 X: Climb the face to the left of the corner and join Cracklosis at the ledge.Gear: to 4"FA 2005, Jay Harrison (solo)FA (V1) 2005, Jay Harrison (solo)

9 hamburger Face 5.10a tR 50'Climbs the front of the Cracklosis Block. Go past a ledge at 7' then up a face to join Cracklosis at the top of the block.FA (TR) 2005, Jason Brechko, Simon Cording

10 Measly little Corner 5.3 G 45'start: The right side of the Cracklosis Block, at a wide crack in a right-facing corner.P1 5.3 G: Up the corner to a ledge, then finish on Cracklosis: up a thin crack and slab to the top. 45'FA 2005, Jay Harrison (solo)

11 Pox 5.10b G 35' êêAs with the other routes on the face, the difficulties are sustained and insecure.start: At the left end of a ground-level overhang.� P1 5.10b G: Go straight up the pocketed face to a fixed anchor. 35'FA Dec 5, 2011, Jay Harrison

12 I Am lesion 5.10a G 35' êêêstart: At a 5'-long overhang at ground level, 10' uphill and right of Measly Little Corner.� P1 5.10a G: Begin with tricky moves up shallow pockets and divots, then up the sustained face to the top. 35'FA May 11, 2009, Jay Harrison, Todd Paris

C M : L M WRANE OUNTAIN OWER EASLES ALL6 Hypoxia (5.5)7 Run for Rabies (5.6)8 Cracklosis (5.5)9 Hamburger Face (5.10a)

10 Measly Little Corner (5.3)11 Pox (5.10b)

12 I Am Lesion (5.10a)13 Getcher Breakfast (5.10a)14 H1N1 (5.8+)15 SARS Right (5.10b)

I I I I

II

II I

II

II

I

II

II

III II

I

II

IIIII

II

II

II I I I I

x

x

x

xx

xx

x

xx

x

6 7 8 910

1112

13

146

7

8 910 11

12

1314

ToTrailhead

ToUpper

MeaslesWall

ToAbove-the-MeaslesWalls

East

Path

xx

xx

x

xx

15

Lockjaw (project)

V1

15

13 Getcher breakfast 5.10a G 40' êêêA well-protected route with a secure start.start: Near a horizontal mineral band and a square-cut jug 6' up.� P1 5.10a G: Go up the face, easy at first, then with more challenging route-finding in a sea of shal-low divots. After the last bolt, traverse right to the anchors of H1N1. 40'FA Jul 20, 2010, Neal Dunkley

14 h1N1 5.8+ G 30' êêstart: Below a right-leaning seam 7' up, where the path turns away from the cliff.� P1 5.8+ G: Zigzag right to left on positive holds, then go straight up to a fixed anchor. 30'FA Nov 18, 2009, Todd Paris, Jay Harrison

15 sARs Right 5.10b G 45' êêThis route is effectively 15' of climbing, but it packs a punch. Take care clipping the crux bolt.start: 9' right or and above H1N1 on a knobby face just left of a dirty, right-rising crevice.� P1 5.10b G: Climb face up and right to a stance under a chest-high overhang right of a block lying on a slanting ledge. Use the block to clip a bolt, (V1) then step down, climb through the overhang right of the block. Follow right-rising seam to its end, make an intriguing move right to gain another seam, then move across right and head up to the top of the crag. 45'� v1 sARs left 5.7+ G: Consistent climbing, but avoids the best moves. From the block, pull the over-hang, then move left up flakes, then step back right to ascend the slab to its top.FA Nov 20, 2013, Tom Lane, Jay HarrisonFA (V1) Nov 20, 2013, Jay Harrison, Tom Lane

Crane Mountain l Crane East l Measles Group UPPeR MeAsles WAllAspect South

Height 70'

Quality êê

Approach 20 min, easy

Summary Longest and tallest cliff in the Measles Group with unique pocketed rock.

5 1 1 1 1 9-5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10 5.11 5.12 5.13+ total

This is the longest and tallest of the cliffs in the Measles Group. The left side has a wide roof 25' up (Short Per-son's Disease) above a broad ledge which continues across the cliff splitting it into a steep top section and a slabby, pocketed bottom section. The routes here are much like those on the right-hand side of the Lower Measles Wall—sustained for their grade, but more ac-cessible due to positive holds, and a gentler angle.

DIReCtIoNs (MAPs PAGes 142 AND 166)Follow the East Path to the Lower Measles Wall—the first wall you come to on the East Path. From the right end of this wall, continue another 50' uphill along the path to this wall 584165,4821137.

DesCeNt oPtIoNsIt is easy to walk around either end of the cliff and there are many trees from which to build anchors. There are fixed anchors for the routes on the right end of the cliff.

16 little Fever 5.1 G 35'start: 30' uphill of the East Path, below the left end of the long roof at a spruce tree.P1 5.1 G: Follow a left-leaning crack 20' across an easy slab. Climb a broken, right-leaning crack to the top. 35'FA Jun 7, 2011, Jay Harrison (solo)

17 Craterface 5.5 R 45'start: Same as Little Fever.P1 5.4 R: Climb up through a rock notch below a spruce tree, then climb straight up the face above the spruce on excellent pockmarks. Cross a left-rising dirty crack and finish at the high point of the slab. 45'FA Nov 9, 2011, Jay Harrison (solo)

18 Roped bouldering 5.10c R 30'With only four or five moves of climbing, this would be a bouldering problem if you had enough pads.start: Under the giant roof where an obvious crack splits its left side.P1 5.10c R: Climb the thin overhung face to gain the roof crack. Make several moves to reach the end of the roof crack, then flip over the roof edge and climb the low-angle slab to trees above. 30'FA (5.10c C2) Jul 14, 2012, Michael Gray, Peter

WhitmoreFFA Nov, 2013, Kirby Girard

19 short Person's Disease 5.8 G 50'start: 40' uphill of the East Path, below the right end of a long roof, at a huge, waist-high, horizontal flake.P1 5.8 G: Crawl onto the flake and go right under the roof to a handcrack. Follow the crack around the right end of the roof, then step left and climb a slab to the top. 50'FA Apr 17, 2011, Jay Harrison (roped solo)

II I I I I

I I I I

IIIIIIIII

II

II

I

II

I

IIIIII

II

I I I I I

II

II

II

I

II

II

I

IIIIII

III

x

xx

x

xx

x

x

II

I II

II

II

II

C M : U M WRANE OUNTAIN PPER EASLES ALL16 Little Fever (5.1)17 Craterface (5.5)18 Roped Bouldering (5.10c)19 Short Person's Disease (5.8)20 El Muerte Rojo (5.6)

21 Full Moon Fever (5.7)22 Cat Scratch Fever (5.9)23 Hydrophobia (5.3)24 Chilblain (5.6)

2322

2120

2120

V1

LowerMeaslesWall

16

16

19

19

24

East Path

ToHeight

of LandWall

ToBelow-the-Measles Wall

ToLowerMeaslesWall

22

17

1718

1718

23 24

170

Indian Lake

171

Indian Lake

20 el Muerte Rojo 5.6 G 70' êêstart: On the East Path at a 3'-long overlap at ground level, next to a beech tree with a forked trunk.P1 5.6 G: Climb to a series of vertical pockets 10' up. Follow the pockets to a 10'-long finger and handcrack. At the top of the crack, climb the face with shallow pockets (crux) up to a broad ledge. Step right to finish on Full Moon Fever: go up a short, left-facing corner to an overhang, and climb around its right end. Work up to a ledge, and then scramble to a large pine tree with a fixed anchor. 70'FA Nov 13, 2009, Jay Harrison, Jonathan Losier

21 Full Moon Fever 5.7 G 70' êêstart: On the East Path, 6' right of El Muerte Rojo and 5' left of Cat Scratch Fever.P1 5.7 G: Start up a sheer wall covered in shallow pockets. Zigzag left-to-right (V1), and gain a right-leaning handcrack. Follow the crack to a ledge. Go up a short, left-facing corner to an overhang, and climb around its right end. Work up to a ledge, and then scramble to a large pine tree with a fixed anchor shared with El Muerte Rojo. 70'v1 5.8 R: Instead of going to the crack, move leftward (towards a bolt) toward El Muerte Rojo before reach-ing the ledge. From the ledge, go straight up to the left side of the overhang (no pro), then continue directly through it to the high point of the cliff.FA Nov 8, 2009, Jay Harrison, Robin HarrisonFA (V1) Jun 18, 2010, Tom Lane, Maria Lane

22 Cat scratch Fever 5.9 G 40' êêstart: On the East Path, 6' left of the right-leaning crack of Hydrophobia that begins 8' up.� P1 5.9 G: Climb easy rock to a stance on a bulge. Move up, and slightly left, on shallow pockets. Diago-nal up and right (V1) to a cruxy section below a broad ledge. Climb to the ledge and a spruce tree with a fixed anchor. 40'v1 5.8 G: Go left to the handcrack of Full Moon Fe-ver.FA May 16, 2010, Jay HarrisonFA (V1) Mar 27, 2010, Jay Harrison, Dave Pomerantz,

Todd Paris

23 hydrophobia 5.3 G 40' êêNamed for snowmelt in the upper crack during the first ascent.start: On the East Path, below a 20'-long, right-leaning crack that begins 8' up.P1 5.3 G: Go up stepped ledges to the crack and climb to its end. Protect, and then traverse right to an-other handcrack, and follow this to an oak tree with a fixed anchor. 40'FA Apr 3, 2010, Jay Harrison, Robin Harrison

24 Chilblain 5.6 R 30'start: Right of a last, left-facing corner. Very dirty.P1 5.6 R: Climb dimpled rock without pro to the top, coming up 8' right of Hydrophobia. 30'FA Nov 7, 2011, Jay Harrison (solo)

Crane Mountain l Crane East l Measles Group toP-o-the-MeAsles WAllAspect South

Height 60'

Quality

Approach 20 min, easy

Summary Tiny, dir ty slab with some obscure routes.1 1 1 3-5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10 5.11 5.12 5.13+ total

This low, lichen-covered slab sits 50' uphill and right of the Upper Measles Wall.

DIReCtIoNs (MAPs PAGes 142 AND 166)Follow the East Path to the Upper Measles Wall. Con-tinue uphill along the base of the cliff to near the view-point with a fire ring. Cut left uphill for 80' to the base of this wall 584171,4821146.

25 Pimples 5.5 R 45'Currently dirty.start: 20' uphill and left of the low end of the slab.P1 5.5 R: Climb an unprotected slab to a horizontal crack at 30'. Move up between two trees to the top. 45'FA Apr 22, 2012, Jay Harrison

26 halitosis 5.8 PG 60' êstart: Same as Pustulence.� P1 5.8 PG: Go up a blunt arête using left-facing flake to a horizontal seam. Go straight up a slab with several difficult friction moves to the top. 60'FA May 18, 2012, Mike Prince, Ben Brooke

27 Pustulence 5.7 R 60'An exploratory climb that starts on Halitosis and fin-ishes on Pimples.start: At the low point of the slab, below a left-facing flake.P1 5.6 R: Go up a sloping, right-rising ramp to a hori-zontal seam. Follow the seam left for 15' and finish on Pimples. 60'FA May 5, 2010, Jay Harrison (solo)

Crane Mountain l Crane East l Measles Group beloW-the-MeAsles WAllAspect South

Height 80'

Quality ê

Approach 20 min, easy

Summary Long, low-angle slab with super easy routes.5 5-5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10 5.11 5.12 5.13+ total

Below-the-Measles Wall is positioned downhill of the Upper Measles Wall. It has a slabby bottom (with the routes Lead 102 and Lead 101) and an overhanging top, above which is the viewpoint and fire ring that is along the East Path. The cliff base has been nicely ter-raced.

DIReCtIoNs (MAPs PAGes 142 AND 166)Follow the East Path to the right end of the Upper Measles Wall near the start of Hydrophobia. Walk downhill on a spur path for 200' to the base of the slab 584193,4821114 on your left.

28 lead 102 5.2 G 80' êSlightly wider spacing to the protection than its neigh-bor, and slightly more difficult climbing.start: 10' right of the left end of the slab, below a left-rising crack that begins 8' up.� P1 5.2 G: Climb the face past a couple of cracks to a fixed anchor. 80'FA Aug 19, 2012, Ryan Heffernan, Mike Prince

29 lead 101 5.1 G 80' êêThe easiest sport route in the Adirondacks. Bring a couple of cams if you really want to sew it up.start: Below a v-shaped flake 8' up, and a scoop 20' up.� P1 5.1 G: Go over a low bulging wall, past two hori-zontal cracks, and join Lead 102. 80'FA Aug 19, 2012, Mike Prince, Ryan Heffernan

30 Cooties 5.1 R 80'An early exploratory climb, done before fixed protection was added to the cliff.start: At the lowest point on the slab, just left of center, and 6' left of Social Climber.P1 5.0 R: Climb up and left to easier terrain and finish on Lead 101. 80'FA Apr 11, 2010, Jay Harrison

31 social Climber 5.0 G 50' êstart: 10' uphill and right of the low end of the slab, below a crack leading to a right-facing corner.P1 5.0 G: Climb the corner to a ledge, then up and right to an oak tree belay. 50'Descent: Walk climber's left along the ledge.FA Oct 6, 2011, Jay Harrison, Robin Harrison

32 social Pariah 5.3 R 50'start: On the face right of Social Climber.P1 5.3 R: Go up the face past a left-rising wide crack, then past a series of discontinuous left-rising cracks to an oak tree belay. 50'FA Aug 29, 2011, Jay Harrison (solo)

Crane Mountain l Crane East bellevIeW AReALocation South side of Crane Mountain accessed from

a spur path from the East Path.

Summary A tall, multi-pitch slab of moderate routes, and a steeper single-pitch cliff with routes in the 5.4–5.10 range.

7 4 2 1 1 15-5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10 5.11 5.12 5.13+ total

This area presently consists of two cliffs: a tall multi-pitch slab with moderate routes (Bellavista Slab); and a shorter, steeper, single-pitch cliff (Belleview Slab). Development has already started on cliffs left of Bel-lavista Slab.

DIReCtIoNs (MAPs PAGes 142 AND 166)Follow the East Path past the Lower and Upper Mea-sles Walls to a viewpoint with a fire ring. Just past that, the trail turns sharply left. Immediately after this turn, turn left off the East Path and follow a smaller path up-hill to a small slab above the Top-O-the-Measles Wall. Continue uphill and left, past the base of another slab, to arrive at the right end of the Belleview Slab near a left-facing corner with a crack (Belle Bottom Crack) 584045,4821212. The approach time is 5 minutes from the East Path.

hIstoRYAt the time of the first edition, each of these two cliffs had a single route. On the Belleview Slab was Belle Bottom Crack, climbed solo by Jay Harrison in 1992, and on the Bella Vista Slab was Belle Bottom Buttress (now part of Bella Vista), climbed solo the next year. Since then, Harrison, often solo or with Tom Lane, res-urrected these routes, and, after the lichen dust settled, added nearly 30 more pitches of climbing.

Matt Wood on P2 of Bella Vista (5.7), the namesake routeof the Bellevista Slab. Photo by Jay Harrison.

172

Indian Lake

173

Indian Lake

8

9

76

89

2

2

13

4

14

12 13

10

13,15

1511

11

13

13

13 1511

1 O'Tom's Tick Twister (5.7+)2 Chess Club Crack (5.4)3 Discovered Check (5.8-)4 Giucco Piano (5.8)5 Belleview (5.9)6 Glee Club Crack (5.4)7 Lawyers, Guns, and Money (5.10c)8 Belle Bottom Crack (5.6-)9 Also Ran (5.7)

10 Beautiful Dreamer (5.6)11 Le Jour de Bon Heures (5.3)12 Bon Chance (5.6)13 Benediction (5.6)14 Leftover (5.7)15 Bella Vista (5.7)

B AELLEVIEW REA

15

11

13

15

1112

111015

B SELLEVIEW LAB

B SELLAVISTA LAB

14

5

12 3 4

76

5

2,V1 ToViewpoint

14

14

Crane Mountain l Crane East l Belleview Area bellevIeW slAbAspect South

Height 100'

Quality êê

Approach 30 min, moderate

Summary A tight concentration of moderate, low-angle crack and slab routes.

3 2 2 1 1 9-5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10 5.11 5.12 5.13+ total

A good place for beginning intermediate climbers. The wall is quick to dry after wet conditions. Be aware that tentative leaders may want a stick clip.

1 o'tom's tick twister 5.7+ PG 60' êêstart: Near the left end of the cliff at a 10'-high flake lying against the cliff that forms a right-facing arched opening.P1 5.7+ PG: Up the flake, then up stepped rock. Go left and climb to the top of a flake, then go around the right side of the overhang and follow a crack up an easy slab to a white pine tree. 60'Gear: #000 and #00 C3s were used for gear at a key placement just above the initial flake.FA Jul 17, 2012, Tom Lane, Jay Harrison

2 Chess Club Crack 5.4 G 110'Recommended if cleaned up.start: Same as O'Tom's Tick Twister.P1 5.4 G: (V1) Up the flake, then traverse right on mossy slabs to a right-rising crack that goes up and right. Climb the crack to belay at an oak tree. 60'P2 5.3 G: Continue up the widening crack, then move up to a right-rising crack and follow it to a large red pine tree at the top. 50'v1 5.8 PG: Start 20' right at a smooth bulge be-low a 4'-tall right-facing corner 10' up. Pull over the bulge (crux), go up the corner, then straight up to the wide crack with a tree in it.Gear: Large cams (#4 and #5 C4s) are re-quired.FA Dec 12, 2011, Jay Harrison

3 Discovered Check 5.8- G (5.4 R) 60' êêstart: 12' right of the starting flake of O'Tom's Tick Twister at a small crescent-shaped flake.P1 5.8- G (5.4 R): Climb up to a short, left-facing corner (small cam), make a tricky move to get above it, then friction to an overhang. Climb over it and up a short right-facing corner. Step left and go up a line of knobs to the right of another overhang. Pull through a headwall, then up an unprotected slab to a white pine tree. 60'FA Jul 17, 2012, Jay Harrison, Tom Lane

4 Giucco Piano 5.8 G (5.3 R) 60' êstart: At a clear swathe of slab between two mossy strips, 12' right of the starting flake of Dis-covered Check.

P1 5.8 G (5.3 R): Climb a clean slab to an overhang broken by a short vertical crack. Climb up via the crack to a stance below a steep slab. Up the slab (bolt) and through an overlap (bolt) to a ledge with an oak tree. 60'FA Jul 17, 2012, Jay Harrison, Tom Lane

5 belleview 5.9 G (5.2 R) 110' êA really hard couple of moves at the start, followed by much easier climbing.start: At the lowest point of the cliff base beneath a blunt arête.� P1 5.9 G (5.2 R): (V1) Climb the blunt arête (crux) then work up an easy slab. Go up past a horizontal to a steeper slab, to another horizontal. Continue up the slab to a fixed anchor on a red pine tree. 110'FA Jul 17, 2012, Tom Lane, Jay Harrisonv1 5.7 G: Begin 12' right of the low point at a 1'-long, left-rising foothold. Move up and left to reach the arête about 3' above the first bolt.FA Jul 17, 2012, Jay Harrison

6 Glee Club Crack 5.4 G 100' êêstart: At a short vertical fistcrack leading to a ledge at head height.P1 5.4 G: Up to the ledge, then make an awkward move onto a higher ledge on the left. Traverse left to a large, right-rising crack with pockets. Follow the crack past an oak tree, then face climb to the top. 100'Gear: to 3.5"FA Dec 12, 2011, Jay Harrison

Ben Cook just after the crux ofLawyers, Guns, and Money (5.10c).