cragguide ·...

14
Crag Guide Iskra Crag www.thecrag.com

Upload: others

Post on 06-Nov-2020

4 views

Category:

Documents


0 download

TRANSCRIPT

Page 1: CragGuide · OtherwisecontentfromthisdocumentisreleasedundertheCreativeCommons-AttributionNon-CommercialShareAlikecopyright. Usingthisguide Difficultyratings:BydefaultAustraliausestheAustralianratingsystems.ThisguideusesAustralianEwbanks,BoulderingVerminV-scaleand

Crag�Guide�

Iskra�Crag�

�www.thecrag.com

Page 2: CragGuide · OtherwisecontentfromthisdocumentisreleasedundertheCreativeCommons-AttributionNon-CommercialShareAlikecopyright. Usingthisguide Difficultyratings:BydefaultAustraliausestheAustralianratingsystems.ThisguideusesAustralianEwbanks,BoulderingVerminV-scaleand

www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Iskra�Crag

Crag�Guide 2 Generated�on�5th�Sep�2020

Warning

Rock� climbing� is� extremely� dangerous� and� can� result� in� serious� injury� or� death.� Users� acting� on� anyinformation�directly�or�indirectly�available�from�this�site�do�so�at�their�own�risk.

This� guide� is� compiled� from� a� community� of� users� and� is� presented� without� verification� that� theinformation�is�accurate�or�complete�and�is�subject�to�system�errors.�By�using�this�guide�you�acknowledgethat� the� material� described� in� this� document� is� extremely� dangerous,� and� that� the� content� may� bemisleading�or�wrong.�In�particular�there�may�be�misdescriptions�of�routes,�incorrectly�drawn�topo�lines,incorrect�difficulty�ratings�or�incorrect�or�missing�protection�ratings.�This�includes�both�errors�from�thecontent�and�system�errors.

Nobody�has�checked�this�particlular�guide�so�you�cannot�rely�on�it's�accuracy�like�you�would�a�store�boughtguide.

You�should�not�depend�on�any�information�gleaned�from�this�guide�for�your�personal�safety.

You�must�keep�this�warning�with�the�guide.�For�more�information�refer�to�our:Usage�policy

About�this�guideThis�guide�is�an�extract�from�the�rock�climbing�community�database�at�www.thecrag.com�for:

World�>�Australia�>�Victoria�>�North�West�>�Grampians�>�North�Grampians�>�Iskra�Crag

It�was�generated�on�Sat�Sep�5�2020.

The�database�is�constantly�being�updated,�you�should�download�a�recent�version�of�this�guide�periodically�to�stay�up-to-date.�Note�that�this�guideis�one�of�thousands�of�collaoratively-written�guidebooks�you�can�download�for�free�from�www.thecrag.com.

This�guide�is�for�personal�use�only�and�should�not�be�used�if�more�than�2�months�old�-�please�get�a�more�up-to-date�version�from�the�website.

Note�that�PDF�crag�guides�are�currently�free,�however�we�cannot�guarentee�this�forever.�In�the�future�we�may�have�to�introduce�a�small�fee�for�PDFguides�to�help�make�thecrag.com�sustainable.

You�may�not�sell�or�redistribute�this�guide�without�explicit�permission�from�thecrag.�If�you�are�a�publisher�and�would�like�to�use�thecrag�to�helpwith�your�local�areas�then�please�contact�us.

ContributorsContent�for�this�guide�has�been�provided�by�the�climbing�community.�Special�thanks�to�the�following�people�who�have�made�the�most�significantcontributions�(according�to�their�Crag�Karma)�to�this�crag�guide:

Goshen�Watts,�Andreas�Aachen,�Campbell�Gome,�adam�demmert,�Brendan�Heywood,�Hywel�Rowlands,�Anthony�Cheff,�Will�Monks,�Philip�Armstrongand�Marc�dM

Other�climbers�may�have�made�significant�contributions�and�chosen�not�to�be�mentioned.

You�can�help�contribute�to�your�local�crag�by�adding�descriptions,�photos,�topos�and�more.�If�you�do�find�errors�in�this�guide�you�can�correct�themthrough�www.thecrag.com.

CopyrightSome�content�has�been�provided�under�license�from:

©�Australian�Climbing�Association�Queensland�(Creative�Commons,�Attribution,�Share-Alike�2.5�AU)Otherwise�content�from�this�document�is�released�under�the�Creative�Commons�-�Attribution�Non-Commercial�Share�Alike�copyright.

Using�this�guideDifficulty�ratings:�By�default�Australia�uses�the�Australian�rating�systems.�This�guide�uses�Australian�Ewbanks,�Bouldering�Vermin�V-scale�andAustralian�Aid�grading�systems.

Protection�ratings:�The�guide�may�make�limited�use�of�the�US�style�protection�rating�system�(G,�PG,�PG13,�R,�S,�VS,�X),�only�ratings�of�R�and�aboveare�shown�in�this�guide.�Please�do�not�rely�on�this�data�because�it�has�often�not�been�provided.

Quality�ratings:�1-3�stars�based�on�thecrag.com�users'�ratings.�No�stars�either�means�that�the�route�was�not�worthy�of�a�star�or�insufficient�userratings.

Popularity�ratings:�Charts�based�on�how�often�the�route�is�climbed�relative�to�the�most-climbed�route�at�Iskra�Crag,�using�theCrag.com�users'ascent�logs.

Page 3: CragGuide · OtherwisecontentfromthisdocumentisreleasedundertheCreativeCommons-AttributionNon-CommercialShareAlikecopyright. Usingthisguide Difficultyratings:BydefaultAustraliausestheAustralianratingsystems.ThisguideusesAustralianEwbanks,BoulderingVerminV-scaleand

www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Iskra�Crag

Crag�Guide 3 Generated�on�5th�Sep�2020

Tags:�Explicitly�set�area�and�route�attributes�or�frequently�used�keywords�extracted�from�theCrag.com�users'�comments.

Page 4: CragGuide · OtherwisecontentfromthisdocumentisreleasedundertheCreativeCommons-AttributionNon-CommercialShareAlikecopyright. Usingthisguide Difficultyratings:BydefaultAustraliausestheAustralianratingsystems.ThisguideusesAustralianEwbanks,BoulderingVerminV-scaleand

www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Iskra�Crag

Crag�Guide Generated�on�5th�Sep�2020

Page 5: CragGuide · OtherwisecontentfromthisdocumentisreleasedundertheCreativeCommons-AttributionNon-CommercialShareAlikecopyright. Usingthisguide Difficultyratings:BydefaultAustraliausestheAustralianratingsystems.ThisguideusesAustralianEwbanks,BoulderingVerminV-scaleand

www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Iskra�Crag

Crag�Guide 5 Generated�on�5th�Sep�2020

Table�of�contents

1.��Iskra�Crag� �91�in�Crag�. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51.1.�Western�Crags�39�in�Cliff�. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61.1.1.�Flower�Power�Block�5�in�Sector�. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61.1.2.�Shadow�Buttress�7�in�Sector�. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61.1.3.�Sunstroke�Area�14�in�Sector�. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71.1.4.�Pigs�in�Space�Buttress�5�in�Sector�. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81.1.5.�Main�West�Face�7�in�Cliff�. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81.1.6.�North�Western�Outcrop�1�in�Sector�. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.2.�Dolgoruki�Wall�and�Three�Tiers�9�in�Sector�. . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.3.�Interpretation�Wall�5�in�Cliff�. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101.4.�Eastern�Walls�/�Spark�Walls�19�in�Cliff�. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111.5.�Emu�Crag�6�in�Cliff�. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121.6.�Lemonade�Wall�/�Project�Wall�12�in�Boulder�. . . . . . . . . . . 121.7.�36�Chambers�1�in�Boulder�. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132.�Index�by�grade�. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

1.�Iskra�Crag�91�routes�in�Crag

Reference:� https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=-36.88843,142.3922

Summary:� Trad� climbing,� Sport� climbing� and� otherstyles

Unique�Features�And�StrengthsNow� updated� with� all� new� and� old� climbs� from� theoriginal� North� Grampians� guidebook.� Not� everythinghas� been� verified,� if� you� spot� a� mistake,� feel� free� tocorrect.

DescriptionClimbing�variety�on�at�times�quality�sandstone.

Access�IssuesNone

ApproachThere's� two� ways� to� get� there.� 1)� If� climbing� on� theWestern� side,� approach� from�Hollow�Mt� Carpark.� 2)� Ifclimbing�on�the�Eastern�side,�drive�East�along�Mt�Zeroroad�for�2km.�Park�at�the�start�of�an�old�4WD�track�whichbranches�off�to�the�right�(-36.883475,�142.397560),�300m

before�Mt�zero�road�passes�the�telephone�tower.�Followthe�track�marked�with�pink�tape�which�approaches�thewall� in�a�45-degree�angle�from�the�east� (this� is�slightlyeasier�than�bashing�in�from�the�road.

EthicGrampians�access�issues�have�emerged�due�to�potentialdamage�to�the�environment�and�cultural�sites.�Climbersneed� to�be�aware� that� there� are� significant�Aboriginalsites�in�the�Grampians,�especially�in�cave�areas.�Leave�notrace�and�treat�everything�with�care.The� following� is� a� basic� list� of� things� climbers� inthe� Grampians� need� to� be� aware� of.� For� moredetailed�information�visit�https://www.cliffcare.org.au/educationClimber’s�CodeFind� out� about� and� observe� access� restrictions� andagreements.Use�existing�access�tracks�to�minimise�erosion�-�don’tcreate�rock�cairns�or�leave�marking�tape.Do�not�disturb�nesting�birds�or�other�wildlife.Vegetation,� even� on� cliff� faces,� is� protected.� Wirebrushing� to� remove�mosses� and� 'gardening'� in� cracksand�gullies�is�not�permitted.�Use�slings�to�protect�treeswhile� belaying� or� abseiling� if� belay� anchors� are� notprovided.Large� groups� can� create� problems� of� crowding� andexcessive� damage� around� cliffs.� If� you� plan� to� take� agroup�of�ten�or�more�people�climbing,�you�are�requiredto�register�to�ensure�there�is�space.Respect�sites�of�geological,�cultural,�or�other�scientificinterest.�Don't�climb�near�Aboriginal�sitesVehicles�must�stay�on�roads�open�to�the�public;�off-roaddriving�is�illegal.Do�not�leave�any�rubbish�-�take�it�home�with�you.Keep�campsites�clean.Avoid�all� risk�of� fire�-�do�not� light�campfires�outside�ofofficial�campground�metal�fire�pits.Dispose�of�human�waste�in�a�sanitary�manner�(bury,�oreven�better�pack�it�out)�Do�not�pollute�water�supplies.Respect� established� climbing� traditions� in� ethicalmatters�such�as�the�use�of�chalk,�pitons,�bolts�etc.Avoid� indiscriminate� or� excessive� use� of� fixedequipment.Responsible� climbing� will� protect� cliffs� and� ensurecontinued�rockclimbing

HistoryFirst�climbed�in�1968,�saw�quite�a�bit�of�activity�in�the�late80's,�before�lying�in�obscurity�(possibly�for�good�reasons)until�a�few�sport�lines�were�put�up�around�2009�and�againin�2017.

TagsNew�route�potential�and�Sandstone

Page 6: CragGuide · OtherwisecontentfromthisdocumentisreleasedundertheCreativeCommons-AttributionNon-CommercialShareAlikecopyright. Usingthisguide Difficultyratings:BydefaultAustraliausestheAustralianratingsystems.ThisguideusesAustralianEwbanks,BoulderingVerminV-scaleand

www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Iskra�Crag

Crag�Guide 6 Generated�on�5th�Sep�2020

1.1.�Western�Crags�39�routes�in�Cliff

Reference:� https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=-36.88811,142.39179

Summary:�All�Trad�climbing

DescriptionAll� the�climbing�areas�on�Western�side�of� Iskra.�Mostlyeasy� trad� climbing.�Most� crags� face�west,� so�have� sunafter�1pm.

ApproachApproach� these� crags� from� the� Hollow� Mountaincarpark.�Take�the�walking�track�almost�to�the�GulgurnManja�Shelter.�Where�it�turns�West�-�walk�SE�straight�tothe�crag.�The�first�outcrop�you�should�come�to�is�FlowerPower�Block.

Tags10-20�min

1.1.1.�Flower�Power�Block�5�routes�in�Sector

Lat�/�Long:�-36.88796,142.39092

Summary:�All�Trad�climbing

DescriptionThere� are� two� prominent� faces� on� this� outcrop.� Onefaces�the�Sunstroke�area�and�is�yellow,�the�other�one�isgrey�and�faces�West.1 ��Cornflake�15m�Trad 14

Because� it‘s� good� in� the� morning?� The� flaketowards�the�right�end�of�the�yellow�face.�Climb�theflake�then�mantle�shelf�to�gain�the�corner.�Up�this�tothe�top.

FA:�1989

2 Light�Of�Day�15m�Trad 17Start�about�1m�right�of�left�edge�of�the�yellow�wall.Go�straight�the�line�of�least�resistance.�Top�roped�FA.

FA:�1989

3 Continuar�Sonriendo�22m�Trad 7On� the� grey� face� near� where� the� boulders� form� acave.�Go�up�the�short�obvious�corner,�then�walk�upthe�easy�slab�and�onto�the�right�hand�edge�of�the�faceby�which�you�gain�the�summit.

FA:�1989

4 House�Of�Cards�20m�Trad 17Start�4m�L�of�Continuar�Sonriendo.�Off�boulder�andstraight�up�face,�finishing�L�of�the�thin�shallow�crack.

FA:�Steven�Barnett�&�Anthony�Wregg,�1991

5 One�Flake,�No�Chips�18m�Trad 15Start�as�for�House�of�Cards.�Step�L�and�climb�the�flakeleading�diagonally�L.�Jug�out�to�the�top.

FA:�Steve�Barnett�&�Anthony�Wregg,�1991

1.1.2.�Shadow�Buttress�7�routes�in�Sector

Lat�/�Long:�-36.88832,142.39141

Summary:�All�Trad�climbing

Page 7: CragGuide · OtherwisecontentfromthisdocumentisreleasedundertheCreativeCommons-AttributionNon-CommercialShareAlikecopyright. Usingthisguide Difficultyratings:BydefaultAustraliausestheAustralianratingsystems.ThisguideusesAustralianEwbanks,BoulderingVerminV-scaleand

www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Iskra�Crag

Crag�Guide 7 Generated�on�5th�Sep�2020

ApproachCouple�of�minutes�East�of�the�Flower�Power�Block�(andin�front�of�the�Sunstroke�area).1 Pick�a�Number�25m�Trad 6

Start�at�the�obvious�cleft�at�the� left�end.�Bridge�upand�follow�the�weakness�through�to�the�top.

FA:�1985

2 Super�66�28m�Trad 6Start�as�for�Shadow�Streak.�Go�left�up�the�easy�rampand�through�the�overhang�to�the�top.

FA:�1985

3 Shadow�Streak�25m�Trad 13Start�8m�left�of�Sunlight�And�Shadow.�Up�the�crack�tothe�overhangs.�Step�right�and�follow�the�black�streakto�the�top.

FA:�1985

4 This�Is�Not�Funny�30m�Trad 15In�the�middle�of�the�face�at�the�initials.�The�obviousline.

FA:�1985

5 This�Is�Not�Funny�Variant�Start�Trad 12Start�3m�right�of�the�initials.�Up�the�slab�and�over�theoverhang�to�the�orange�scoop.�Walk�left�to�finish�upthe�regular�route.

FA:�1985

6 Sunlight�and�Shadow�/�Nuffy�Boggles30m�Trad

15

Start� 1m� left� of� This� is� Not� Funny.� Move� more� orless�straight�up�the�wall�to�the�top.�Possibly�under-graded.

FA:�1985

7 Superjug�20m�Trad 12As�for�THIS�IS�NOT�FUNNY�VARIANT�START.�Go�rightup�the�jugs�to�a�ledge.�Move�2m�R�then�straight�up.

FA:�1985

1.1.3.�Sunstroke�Area�14�routes�in�Sector

Lat�/�Long:�-36.88794,142.39155

Summary:�All�Trad�climbing

DescriptionBest�looking�of�the�smaller�satellite�crags�and�has�a�fewok�lines.

1 V.F.L.�15m�Trad 6Val's�First�Lead.�The�obvious�narrow�chimney�on�thenorth�facing�wall�of�the�cliff.

FA:�Val�Cheffings�&�Chris�Boylen,�1991

2 Boys�Of�Summer�18m�Trad 14Prominent�nose�at�the�very�L�end�of�the�crag.�Up�theface�and�through�the�bulge�at�the�top.

FA:�1986

3 Blue�Light�18m�Trad 8The�corner�line�L�of�the�prominent�chimney.

4 Coccyx�Corner�18m�Trad 8The� easy� corner� immediately� R� of� the� narrowchimney,�moving�L�at�the�top�for�an�easy�exit.

FA:�1985

5 Bums�Rush�18m�Trad 14Most�attractive�line�on�the�crag�-�vertical�crack�/�seam1m�R�of�Coccyx�Corner.

FA:�1985

6 Turn�The�Other�Cheek�18m�Trad 13The�next�line�3m�R�of�Bums�Rush.�Keep�in�the�line�atthe�top.

FA:�1985

7 Scorched�Cheeks�18m�Trad 15

8 Twenty�Dollar�Brick�18m�Trad 18L�of�Sunstroke,�line�of�overhangs�rise�from�R�to�topL.� This� climb� takes� the�middle� of� the� three�breaksin�the�overhangs.�Originally�climbed�by�finishing�upthe�twin�shallow�corners�on�the�terrace�above�(add10m).

FA:�1986

9 High�Rise�Dunnies�23m�Trad 4Start�at�the�orange�and�grey�rock�just�L�of�Sunstrokeat�the�'cheating�stones'.�Head�diagonally�L�finishingas�for�Coccyx�Corner.

FA:�1988

10 ��Sunstroke�20m�Trad 18

Page 8: CragGuide · OtherwisecontentfromthisdocumentisreleasedundertheCreativeCommons-AttributionNon-CommercialShareAlikecopyright. Usingthisguide Difficultyratings:BydefaultAustraliausestheAustralianratingsystems.ThisguideusesAustralianEwbanks,BoulderingVerminV-scaleand

www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Iskra�Crag

Crag�Guide 8 Generated�on�5th�Sep�2020

Roof�system�with�L�leading�diagonal.�Good�unlikelymoves,�follow�the�line�all�the�way.�Finishing�easily�-or�surmount�final�roof.

FA:�1985

11 Summa's�A�Bumma�25m�Trad 13At� the� R� end� of� cliff,� R� of� Sunstroke,� straight� upto� arete,� then� diagonally� L� and� across� the� faceimmediately�above�lip�of�the�overhang.

FA:�1985

12 Summa's�A�Bumma�Direct�Trad 13Spectacular.�The�arete,�then�up�and�over�the�squareroof.

FA:�1985

The�next�two�climbs�are�on�the�small�outcrop�opposite(West�of)�Sunstroke.

14 ��Angry�Ant�12m�Trad 19Small� north� facing� steep� wall� on� terrace� oppositeSumma's�a�Bummer.�X�cracks�on�left�side�of�wall.

FA:�Hywel�Rowlands,�2014

15 Gypsy�22m�Trad 102m�right�of�the�west�buttress’s�left�arete.

FA:�Hywel�Rowlands

1.1.4.�Pigs�in�Space�Buttress�5�routes�in�Sector

Lat�/�Long:�-36.88775,142.39189

Summary:�All�Trad�climbing

ApproachBest�approached�as�for�shadow�buttress�and�continue�afew�minutes�further�along�(Up�the�hill,�south).1 Cheval�18m�Trad 14

A�few�m�L�of�Quantum�Sufficit�is�small�black�hole�inthe�rock.�Start�1m�R�of�this�and�go�straight�up�to�theledge.�Climb�the�overhang�at�the�arete�and�up.

FA:�1985

2 Quantum�Sufficit�20m�Trad 12Up�the�corner�/�arete�3m�L�of�Pigs�in�Space,�to�finishup�wall�just�left�of�that�climb.

FA:�1985

3 Pigs�in�Space�20m�Trad 13Start�in�the�middle�of�the�face.�Line�leading�to�the�Lend�of�the�square�cut�roof�and�up�the�corner.

FA:�1985

4 The�Righteous�Remnant�20m�Trad 163m�R�of�Pigs�in�Space.�Climb�to�the�RHS�of�the�squareroof,�and�up.

FA:�1985

5 Human�Sacrifice�20m�Trad 16

1m�R�of�TRR.�Up�to�the�L�leaning�orange�roof,�up�thisto�break�out�R�onto�the�delicate�face,�then�back�L.

FA:�1985

1.1.5.�Main�West�Face�7�routes�in�Cliff

Lat�/�Long:�-36.88819,142.3924

Summary:�All�Trad�climbing

DescriptionThis� wall� is� separated� from� Dolgoruki�Wall� by� a� largegully� that� runs�down�right.� lt� is� the�main�buttress� thatruns�along�the�top�of�the�Western�side.�About�one�third�ofthe�way�along�is�the�prominent�line�of�Election�Promise.1 Dereks�Dyno�40m�Trad 20

First� pitch� is� sustained� quality� at� about� 16.However,�the�second�pitch�is�20+�depending�on�yourheight� (can� be� bypassed).� Start� at� the� grey� areteimmediately� right� of� the� 'hole'� in� the� cliff.� 1)� 30m.Straight�up�to�large�ledge�below�overhangs.�2)�10m.Lunge�or�boulder�straight�up�to�jugs�on�lip�of�roof�andcontinue�to�top.

FA:�Derek�Visser,�Wayne�Maher�&�Heather�Philips,1985

2 Cheap�And�Nasty�15m�Trad 13Supposedly�this�climb� is�on�an�outcrop�above�Pigsin�Space�buttress,�below�the�main�wall�(more�or�lessbetween�DD�and�EP.�Takes�the�obvious�corner�line.

FA:�1985

3 Monkey�Grip�20m�Trad 13The�short�corner�then�the�easy�angled�corner�right�ofDD.�(Could�be�a�repeat�of�Cheap�and�Nasty).

FA:�1986

4 Election�Promise�44m�Trad 7“Guarantees� not� to� tax� you,� but� it‘s� a� bit� suss".Back� on� the� main� cliff,� the� large� flake� /� chimneyabout�one�third�of�the�way�along�the�wall.

FA:�1985

5 Brass�Bound�Buggery�Box�45m�Trad 12Enjoyable�airy�climbing.�Starts�below�a�crack�whichruns�up�to�a�big�roof.�1)�35m.�Climb�the�first�overhangdirectly� to� the� crack� and� follow� it� to� the� overlap.Traverse�up�L�under�the�overlap�to�a�recessed�corner.Up�the�arete�and�traverse�L�under�the�roof�to�a�smallledge.�2)�10m.�Move�left�and�straight�up.

FA:�1985

6 ��Hickory�Handled�Hogshit�Hamper40m�Trad

12

Excellent� value.� Surprisingly� easy� for� such� steeprock.�Starts�as�for�BBBB.�Climb�the�crack�all�the�wayto�the�big�roof,�step�L�and�straight�up.

FA:�1985

Page 9: CragGuide · OtherwisecontentfromthisdocumentisreleasedundertheCreativeCommons-AttributionNon-CommercialShareAlikecopyright. Usingthisguide Difficultyratings:BydefaultAustraliausestheAustralianratingsystems.ThisguideusesAustralianEwbanks,BoulderingVerminV-scaleand

www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Iskra�Crag

Crag�Guide 9 Generated�on�5th�Sep�2020

7 Sparklet�23m�Trad 7Starts�from�the�RH�end�of�the�long�overlap�-�scrambleup�slab�to�a�ledge�to�start.�Move�L�above�the�overlapand�climb�the�corner�until�it�breaks�up.�Move�L�aboveroof,�and�up.

FA:�1985

1.1.6.�North�Western�Outcrop�1�routes�in�Sector

Lat�/�Long:�-36.887,142.3915

Summary:�All�Trad�climbing

DescriptionMost�NW�outcrop�of�the�crag,�but�only�has�one�climb.

ApproachCan� be� approached� as� for� the� Western� Crags,� or� theEastern�side�(direct�from�the�road).1 Digit�Removal�15m�Trad 16

The�corner�/�slab�bordering�the�L�side�of�the�sandyoverhangs.

FA:�1985

1.2.�Dolgoruki�Wall�and�Three�Tiers�9�routes�in�Sector

Lat�/�Long:�-36.88756,142.39222

Summary:�All�Trad�climbing

DescriptionIncludes� the� first� route� done� (Dolgoruki� Direct)� andthe�East� facing�orange�wall� to� the� L.� It� is� complicatedsomewhat�by�the�3�tiers�that�the�climbs�start�from.

ApproachApproach�as�to�Flower�Power�Block,�then�drop�down�tothe�L�and�around�onto�the�toe�of�the�buttress.�(Can�alsobe�approached�from�the�Eastern�side)

Tags10-20�min1 Rostislav�14m�Trad 8

Start:�10m�R�of�Dolgoruki�Direct�on�the�W�facing�partof� the�buttress.�Flake�crack� to� scoop,�up�corner� tobelay�in�through-cave.�The�other�side�of�the�cave�ison�the�First�Tier�ledge,�scramble�off.FA:�Ben�Wright,�Heather�Murray�&�Geoff�Brian,�2004

2 Dolgoruki�Direct�94m�Trad 12Start�at� the�edge�of� the� rib�at� the� foot�of� the�mainbuttress.� 1)� 43m.� Ascend� the� rib� to� a� ledge� at� 4m,up� overhanging� chimney� then� follow� the� edge� ofthe� rib� to� the� obvious� overhang.� 2)� 15m.� Climbthrough� the� slight� break� in� the� overhang� (one� ofthose� height� dependent� gradings� -� you� have� beenwarned).�Immediately�above�the�lip�traverse�R�for�3mto�the�rib�then�continue�vertically� to�a� large� ledge.3)� 36m.�Keeping� as� close� to� the� edge�of� the� rib� aspossible,�but�actually�on�the�R�wall,�continue�on�tothe�summit�and�glory.

FA:�1968

First�TierThe�next�set�of�climbs�are�on�the�tiered�walls�to�the�L�ofthe�Dolgoruki�rib�(Facing�East),�each�tier�being�separatedby�a�ledge�where�it�is�possible�to�walk�/�scramble�off.

4 Mandela�35m�Trad 22On�the�lowest�tier�of�the�orange�wall.�Steep�flake�/crack�in�the�middle�of�the�wall.

FA:�Kevin�Lindorff,�1985

Second�TierSecond�Tier

6 Where�The�Green�Ants�Dream�30m�Trad 21The�RH�crack�above,�and�to�the�L�of�Mandela.�Goodholds�on�deceptively�steep�face.

FA:�1985FFA:�Louise�Shepherd,�1986

7 Panic�Stations�20m�Trad 23�RStarts�a�few�m�left�of�WTGAD�and�climbs�the�face�viathe�flakes�(with�care)�to�the�top.�Poor�rock�and�pro.

FA:�Kevin�Lindorff,�1989

Third�TierThe�following�4�climbs�start�on�the�3rd�Tier,�split�by�theobvious�wide�crack�of�'Technique',�15.

9 Game�Plan�15m�Trad 20Start�behind�(now�burnt)�pine�trees�at�the�far�L�endof�the�3rd�tier�(at�the�head�of�a�minor�gully).�Up�R�toa�blunt�arete�and�past�a�bolt�to�the�top.

Page 10: CragGuide · OtherwisecontentfromthisdocumentisreleasedundertheCreativeCommons-AttributionNon-CommercialShareAlikecopyright. Usingthisguide Difficultyratings:BydefaultAustraliausestheAustralianratingsystems.ThisguideusesAustralianEwbanks,BoulderingVerminV-scaleand

www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Iskra�Crag

Crag�Guide 10 Generated�on�5th�Sep�2020

FA:�Kevin�Lindorff,�1988

10 Technique�15m�Trad 15The�obvious�wide,�leaning,�corner�crack.

FA:�Wayne�Maher,�1985

11 Radio�Tehran�15m�Trad 18Starts�from�the�LH�end�of�the�main�ledge�(6m�R�of�thewide�crack).�Up�wall�trending�L�then�up�to�top.

FA:�Kevin�Lindorff,�1988

12 Cheek�To�Cheek�15m�Trad 13L� leading� line� /� corners� at� the� R� end� of� the� 3rdTerrace� -�more� or� less� directly� above�WTGAD.� Canalso�be�more�easily�approached�by�climbing�the�first2�pitches�of�DD�and�up�this,�rather�than�traversing�offR.

FA:�Wayne�Maher,�1985

The�original�guidebook�describes�4�more�routes�(BlackStump� etc);� these� climbs� are� on� the� next� buttressuphill,�and�face�directly�East�-�and�are�more�accuratelydescribed� under� the� Eastern�Walls.� However� they� canbe�easily�accessed�from�here,�by�walking�up�and�L�pastthe� gully� that� leads� to� Game� Plan.� You� can� then� alsoscramble�down�to�Septic�Crank,�and�easily�to�the�rest�ofthe�Eastern�Walls.

1.3.�Interpretation�Wall�5�routes�in�Cliff

Lat�/�Long:�-36.88684,142.39307

Summary:�Sport�climbing�and�Trad�climbing

DescriptionWall� with� orange� streaks� facing� Mt� Zero� Road� road(-36.886852,�142.392997).�This� is�a�perfect�winter�crag;short�walk-in,�sheltered�from�the�wind�and�in�the�sun�thewhole�day.

ApproachFrom�Hollow�Mountain� car� park,� drive� along�MT� Zeroroad� to� the� east� for� 2km.� Park� at� the� start� of� an� old4wd�track�which�branches�off� to� the�right� (-36.883475,142.397560),� 300m� before� Mt� zero� road� passes� thetelephone� tower.� Follow� the� track� marked� with� pinktape�which� approaches� the� wall� in� a� 45-degree� anglefrom�the�east.

Descent�NotesAll�climbs�have�double�RB�anchors.

TagsVertical,�Overhung,�N,�Sandstone�and�5-10�min

1 Don’t�cheat�on�me�23m�Sport� 8 21The�line�of�RBs�to�the�left�of�the�big�block�on�the�mainface.�Up�and�right�to�big�flake.�Powerful�move�overflake�and�straight�up.�Finishing�the�route�using�theright-hand�juggy�arete�makes�it�a�consistent�21�whilethe�intended�direct�finish�might�be�22.

Set�by��Ben�Kucenko�&�Bernie�MishkinisFA:�Ben�Kucenko,�2017

2 ��Pleasuring�yourself�alone�23m�Sport8

22

Setter� (who� is� not� FA)� insisted� on� routename....Climb� the� first� 2� RBs� from�‘Don’t� cheaton�me’.�After� the�second�RB�continue�straight�upfollowing�the�line�of�FHs.�Reach�high�for�the�clip�atthe� final�overhang�and�power� straight�up�on�goodslopers�to�anchor.

Set�by��Ben�KucenkoFA:�Andreas�Aachen�&�Ben�Kucenko,�2017

3 ��It�doesn’t�fit�in�20m�Sport� 6 23The�line�of�FHs�to�the�left�of�‘Don’t�cheat�on�me’.Start�with�obvious�pockets�and�small�edges�to�goodrest.�Big�move�over�bulge,�then�up�and�left�to�glue-reinforced�hold.�Big�moves�on�good�holds� throughoverhang�to�anchor.

Set�by��Andreas�AachenFA:�Andreas�Aachen,�2017

4 Differing�view�12m�Trad 17Nothing� to� write� home� about,� but� nice� trad� /inconsistent�crack� line� just�L�of�roof/cave.�Bolts�onPulled�Out�to�start.

FA:�Goshen�Watts,�2017

5 Pulled�out�at�the�last�minute�12m�Sport5

19

Little�wall� to� the� left�and� in� front�of� the�main�wall.Straight� up� via� good� holds� to� ledge.� Up� throughorange�scoops�to�juggy�arete.�Up�and�over�the�lip�tothe�right�to�anchors.

Set�by��Kadence�Bodard

Page 11: CragGuide · OtherwisecontentfromthisdocumentisreleasedundertheCreativeCommons-AttributionNon-CommercialShareAlikecopyright. Usingthisguide Difficultyratings:BydefaultAustraliausestheAustralianratingsystems.ThisguideusesAustralianEwbanks,BoulderingVerminV-scaleand

www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Iskra�Crag

Crag�Guide 11 Generated�on�5th�Sep�2020

FA:�Kadence�Bodard,�2017

1.4.�Eastern�Walls�/�Spark�Walls�19�routes�in�Cliff

Lat�/�Long:�-36.88762,142.39314

Summary:�Trad�climbing�and�Sport�climbing

DescriptionThe� Eastern� walls� is� the� line� cliffs� higher� up� on� theEastern�side�of�Iskra.�It�contains�climbs�from�the�originalguide,� and� also� newer� bolted� climbs� and� projects.Routes�vary�considerably,�but�there�is�some�great�rockto�be�found,�even�if�the�best�bits�aren't�all�that�long.

ApproachAs�for�Interpretation�Walls�-�follow�a�flat�/�easy�markedtrail�from�a�short�4WD�trail�a�few�hundred�metres�west�ofthe�telephone�tower.�About�15�mins.

Tags5-10�minDescribed�L�to�R,�the�following�few�climbs�face�East�(atthe� top� of� the� Eastern� Walls),� and� include� the� steep,compact�wall�of�Goelro�Plan,�projects�and�few�trad�linesin�the�recess.

2 Batmans�Revenge�30m�Trad 20Looks�totally�worthless,�but�has�an�intense�sectionof�climbing�that's�much�better�than�it�looks.�Up�easyramp�just�L�of�chimney,�awkward�moves�around�roofinto�thin�slanting�crack,�which�is�followed�to�easierground.�Quite�independent�of�KOFTSW�until�the�last10m�or�so.

FA:�Goshen�Watts�&�Riley�Nicholson,�29�Jul�2017

3 Kiss�Of�The�Spider�Woman�30m�Trad 22Crack-line� in� the� recess� left� of�Matt's� Corner,� starteasily� up� into� deep� chimney.� Then� short� crack"steeping�requires�a�bit�of�effort,�but�it�is�worth�it".

FA:�Kevin�Lindorff,�1986

4 ��Matts�Corner�26m�Sport 23Subtle�corner�/�seam�L�of�GP�Extension.�FH's�finishesat�loweroff�(which�is�ok,�but�bolts�do�need�replacing).Scamble�up�start,�then�all�FH's�up�the�line.

FA:�matt�brooks,�1997

5 ��Goelro�Plan�12m�Sport� 4 26This� is� the� left� most� bolted� route� on� the� mainprominent�orange�buttress�and�follows�an�undercutorange�corner.�Stick�clip�the�first�bolt.�Undercut�startthen� follow�hanging� corner�with�as�many� tricks� asyou�can�muster�to�hang�on�to�the�slopey�lay-aways.Finish�on�ledge�at�U�bolt.

FFA:�adam�demmert,�2009

6 ��Goelro�Plan�Extension�22m�Sport� 8CLOSED� PROJECT,� Adam� Demmert� -� Steep� wallabove�Goelro�Plan�with�3�bolts�to�anchor.

7 Ross's�project�SportStart:�Closed�project

8 ��From�a�spark�a�fire�will�flare�-Closed�Project�SportClosed�ProjectStart:� Awesome� position.� Starts� on� the� North� faceof�'Eastern�Walls'�and�traverses�left�to�arête�and�upawesome�position

9 Project�-�Josh�Grose�SportStart�as� for�FASAFWF�and� then�straight�up�on�verysmall�holds�very�far�apart

Set�by��Josh�Gross

10 No�Rest�Fot�The�Wicked�15m�Trad 18Climb�the�line�5m�L�of�WR�(8m�L�of�major�chimney�/corner�line)�and�about�15m�R�of�the�projects�on�theblank�wall.�Finish�up�R.

FA:�1985

11 Weenie�Roast�15m�Trad 21

Page 12: CragGuide · OtherwisecontentfromthisdocumentisreleasedundertheCreativeCommons-AttributionNon-CommercialShareAlikecopyright. Usingthisguide Difficultyratings:BydefaultAustraliausestheAustralianratingsystems.ThisguideusesAustralianEwbanks,BoulderingVerminV-scaleand

www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Iskra�Crag

Crag�Guide 12 Generated�on�5th�Sep�2020

This�is�the�L�curving�crack�in�the�orange�wall�3m�L�ofthe�corner�/�chimney�line.�Follow�the�line�to�the�ridge.

FA:�1985FFA:�1986

12 Angel�Dust�29m�Trad 19Finger�/�corner�crack�immediately�on�the�R�side�of�thechimney�corner.

FA:�1985

13 The�Jones�Boy�10m�Sport 22Starts�across�from�WR.�3�Rings�are�a�retrobolt.

FA:�1986

14 ��Dutch�Ovens�15m�Sport 21This� climb� is� to� the� R� of� the� previous� climband� around� the� arete.� Ascend� via� the� diagonalseam.� Rings� are� almost� certainly� retrobolts,� andunfortunately� ruin� the� character� and� line� of� theclimb.�Subtract�a�grade.�No�anchor�(walk�off�R).

FA:�Kevin�Lindorff,�1986

15 Rainbow�Warrior�15m�Trad 22Line�about�3-4�R�of�DO.�Awkward�moves�past�the�twomain�ledges�to�a�bolt�runner�higher�up.

FA:�Kevin�Lindorff,�1986

The�following�climbs�are�to�the�R�of,�and�above�the�Eastface�propper,�but�are�a�continuation�of� this�cliff.�Fromthe�smooth�wall�of�Rainbow�Warrior,�scramble�up�R�tothe� obvious� line� of� SC� (the� bolts� could� possibly� be� aretrobolt�of�this�route�at�a�lower�grade,�23/24).�Continuea�little�up�and�R�to�get�to�the�Black�Stump�climbs.

17 ��Septic�Crank�25m�Sport 24Great� climbing� up� the� obvious� bolted� layback� lineon�N�facing�prow�at�the�far�RH�end,�and�above�theEastern� Walls.� DBB� on� the� wall� at� the� top� is� NOTthe�top�of�the�climb�(23�to�this�point).�Clip�anchor,then�make�committing�moves�R�to�hanging�rib,�andanother� bolt� to� the� top.� Backclimb� to� anchor.� NB:Bolts�are�likely�a�retrobolt�of�the�original,�which�wasgrade�25�on�trad�gear,�finishing�up�flake�at�the�top.

FA:�Dave�Fearnley�&�Louise�Shepherd,�1986

18 Take�Me�To�Cuba�10m�Trad 20Starts�on�the�RH�end�of�the�block�that�forms�the�tophalf�of�Septic�Crank.�Up�arete,�past�a�bolt�runner�tothe�top.

19 Beyond�Dave's�Black�Stump�20m�Trad 2510m�L�of�BTBB�on�the�same�wall.�Desperate�climbingwith�spaced�pro.

FA:�Dave�Fearnley,�1986

20 Beyond�The�Black�Stump�23m�Trad 20On�the�East�facing�block�just�above�and�R�of�SC.�Canalso�be�approached�from�the�top�of�the�gully�of�the�3Tiers.�The�slanting�crack�up�the�middle�of�the�wall.

FA:�Louise�Shephard,�1986

Back� down� on� a� thin� buttress� just� below� the� EasternWalls

22 ��Bright�Spark�28m�Trad 17Good,� but� slightly� contrived� climbing� on� anindependent� grey� buttress� below� and� N� of� theEastern�Walls.�Up�short�diagonal�crack,�then�up�thenice�grey�wall,�keeping�to�the�L�for�the�best�climbing.At� the� top� is� a� nice� surprise� mini� 2nd� pitch� (andtopping�out�is�a�better�way�to�descend).

FA:�Goshen�Watts�&�Riley�Nicholson,�29�Jul�2017

1.5.�Emu�Crag�6�routes�in�Cliff

Lat�/�Long:�-36.88963,142.39314

Summary:�All�Trad�climbing

DescriptionSmall�outcrop�up�behind�Iskra�proper.1 Jumping�Spider�10m�Trad 21

At� undercut� rounded� northwest� arête,� on� theterrace.

2 Lizards�Like�Black�Eggs�17m�Trad 16

3 Sly�Boots�20m�Trad 23

4 Red�Herring�20m�Trad 13

5 How�Much�Can�A�Koala�Bear?�15m�Trad 22

6 Wild�Goose�Chase�16m�Trad 14

1.6.�Lemonade�Wall�/�Project�Wall�12�routes�in�Boulder

Lat�/�Long:�-36.8879,142.38908

Summary:�Bouldering�and�Aid�climbing

DescriptionShort�but�incredibly�steep�orange�wall�which�overhangsapprox�45�degrees.�Has�been�both�aided� (historically),and�now�known�also�as�Project�wall� in� the�boulderingguide.�The�aid�routes�AND�boulders�have�been�listed,�butthey�are�often�the�same�lines.

ApproachEasiest� approach� is� for� Iskra� Crag� West� -� follow� thewalking� trail� to� the� cave� paintings,� and� about� 50mbefore�it,�head�roughly�South�for�a�100m�until�you�seethe�wall.

HistoryMost� routes� first� climbed� as� Aid� climbs� in� 1989.� "Allclimbs�have�been�aided�on�nuts,�camming�thingies�andhooks".�"Most,�if�not�all,�should�go�free�to�those�made�ofthe�right�stuff",�so�they�put�up�the�routes�knowing�thatthey�might�be�free�climbed.�Most�of�the�problems�werecompleted�in�2011.

Page 13: CragGuide · OtherwisecontentfromthisdocumentisreleasedundertheCreativeCommons-AttributionNon-CommercialShareAlikecopyright. Usingthisguide Difficultyratings:BydefaultAustraliausestheAustralianratingsystems.ThisguideusesAustralianEwbanks,BoulderingVerminV-scaleand

www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Iskra�Crag

Crag�Guide 13 Generated�on�5th�Sep�2020

Tags10-20�min1 Bandaid�6m�Aid M1

2 First�Aid�6m�Aid M1

3 Hook,�Hang,�Hope�8m�Aid M2

4 Renegade�8m�Aid M1

5 Afr-aid�10m�Aid M3

6 Receding�Hair�Line�10m�Aid M1

7 ��Parallel�Lines�Boulder V11FFA:�Nalle�Hukkataival,�2011

8 ��Last�Action�Hiro�Boulder V12

9 ��Mana�Boulder V13

10 ��Circuit�Breaker�Boulder V11FFA:�Nalle�Hukkataival,�2011

11 ��Project�Wall�Dyno�Boulder V6

12 Ginshu�Boulder V6

1.7.�36�Chambers�1�routes�in�Boulder

Summary:�All�Bouldering

1 ��Compression�Session�Boulder V7FA:�Phil�Neville

2.�Index�by�gradeGrade Route Area Page

4 High�Rise�Dunnies�23m�Trad SA 76 Pick�a�Number�25m�Trad SB 7

Super�66�28m�Trad SB 7V.F.L.�15m�Trad SA 7

7 Continuar�Sonriendo�22m�Trad FPB 6Election�Promise�44m�Trad MWF 8Sparklet�23m�Trad MWF 9

8 Blue�Light�18m�Trad SA 7Coccyx�Corner�18m�Trad SA 7Rostislav�14m�Trad DWATT 9

10 Gypsy�22m�Trad SA 812 Superjug�20m�Trad SB 7

This�Is�Not�Funny�Variant�StartTrad

SB 7

Quantum�Sufficit�20m�Trad PISB 8Brass�Bound�Buggery�Box�45mTrad

MWF 8

��Hickory�Handled�HogshitHamper�40m�Trad

MWF 8

Dolgoruki�Direct�94m�Trad DWATT 913 Shadow�Streak�25m�Trad SB 7

Summa's�A�Bumma�25m�Trad SA 8Summa's�A�Bumma�Direct�Trad SA 8Turn�The�Other�Cheek�18m�Trad SA 7Pigs�in�Space�20m�Trad PISB 8

Cheap�And�Nasty�15m�Trad MWF 8Monkey�Grip�20m�Trad MWF 8Cheek�To�Cheek�15m�Trad DWATT 10Red�Herring�20m�Trad EC 12

14 ��Cornflake�15m�Trad FPB 6Boys�Of�Summer�18m�Trad SA 7Bums�Rush�18m�Trad SA 7Cheval�18m�Trad PISB 8Wild�Goose�Chase�16m�Trad EC 12

15 One�Flake,�No�Chips�18m�Trad FPB 6Sunlight�and�Shadow�/�NuffyBoggles�30m�Trad

SB 7

This�Is�Not�Funny�30m�Trad SB 7Scorched�Cheeks�18m�Trad SA 7Technique�15m�Trad DWATT 10

16 Human�Sacrifice�20m�Trad PISB 8The�Righteous�Remnant�20mTrad

PISB 8

Digit�Removal�15m�Trad NWO 9Lizards�Like�Black�Eggs�17mTrad

EC 12

17 House�Of�Cards�20m�Trad FPB 6Light�Of�Day�15m�Trad FPB 6Differing�view�12m�Trad IW 10��Bright�Spark�28m�Trad EW 12

18 ��Sunstroke�20m�Trad SA 7Twenty�Dollar�Brick�18m�Trad SA 7Radio�Tehran�15m�Trad DWATT 10No�Rest�Fot�The�Wicked�15mTrad

EW 11

19 ��Angry�Ant�12m�Trad SA 8Pulled�out�at�the�last�minute12m�Sport� 5

IW 10

Angel�Dust�29m�Trad EW 1220 Dereks�Dyno�40m�Trad MWF 8

Game�Plan�15m�Trad DWATT 9Batmans�Revenge�30m�Trad EW 11Beyond�The�Black�Stump�23mTrad

EW 12

Take�Me�To�Cuba�10m�Trad EW 1221 Where�The�Green�Ants�Dream

30m�TradDWATT 9

Don’t�cheat�on�me�23m�Sport8

IW 10

��Dutch�Ovens�15m�Sport EW 12Weenie�Roast�15m�Trad EW 11Jumping�Spider�10m�Trad EC 12

22 Mandela�35m�Trad DWATT 9��Pleasuring�yourself�alone

23m�Sport� 8IW 10

Kiss�Of�The�Spider�Woman�30mTrad

EW 11

Rainbow�Warrior�15m�Trad EW 12The�Jones�Boy�10m�Sport EW 12How�Much�Can�A�Koala�Bear?15m�Trad

EC 12

Page 14: CragGuide · OtherwisecontentfromthisdocumentisreleasedundertheCreativeCommons-AttributionNon-CommercialShareAlikecopyright. Usingthisguide Difficultyratings:BydefaultAustraliausestheAustralianratingsystems.ThisguideusesAustralianEwbanks,BoulderingVerminV-scaleand

www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Iskra�Crag

Crag�Guide 14 Generated�on�5th�Sep�2020

23 ��It�doesn’t�fit�in�20m�Sport� 6 IW 10��Matts�Corner�26m�Sport EW 11

Sly�Boots�20m�Trad EC 1223�R Panic�Stations�20m�Trad DWATT 924 ��Septic�Crank�25m�Sport EW 1225 Beyond�Dave's�Black�Stump

20m�TradEW 12

26 ��Goelro�Plan�12m�Sport� 4 EW 11V6 Ginshu�Boulder LW 13

��Project�Wall�Dyno�Boulder LW 13V7 ��Compression�Session

Boulder3C 13

V11 ��Circuit�Breaker�Boulder LW 13��Parallel�Lines�Boulder LW 13

V12 ��Last�Action�Hiro�Boulder LW 13V13 ��Mana�Boulder LW 13

��From�a�spark�a�fire�willflare�-�Closed�Project�Sport

EW 11

��Goelro�Plan�Extension�22mSport� 8

EW 11

Project�-�Josh�Grose�Sport EW 11Ross's�project�Sport EW 11

M1 Bandaid�6m�Aid LW 13First�Aid�6m�Aid LW 13Receding�Hair�Line�10m�Aid LW 13Renegade�8m�Aid LW 13

M2 Hook,�Hang,�Hope�8m�Aid LW 13M3 Afr-aid�10m�Aid LW 13