cook house issue 7
DESCRIPTION
This issue we're taking a look at what butchering their own meat means to our chefs and what the kitchens do with it, reporting back from some of the fantastic trips the chefs have been on and learning about perfect puds for winter. Plus all the news from the Soho House Group worldwide.TRANSCRIPT
cookhouse
winter 2011 WORKING cooking perfect puddings EATING tasty trips
PLAYING chefs’ mad hobbies
S o h o H o u s e F o o d M a g a z i n e
rump&Grind
Grey Goose vodka teams up with pastry
chef Matt Hayes to create brilliant
seasonal desserts
WINTER PUDDINGS
a taste...
Winter 2011
T u c k i n !T h i s m a g a z i n e c e l e b r a t e s t h e f o o d p h i l o s o p h y o f a l l t h e S o h o H o u s e G r o u p r e s t a u r a n t s w o r l d w i d e : S o h o H o u s e N e w Y o r k , B a b i n g t o n H o u s e i n S o m e r s e t , S o h o H o u s e W e s t H o l l y w o o d , S o h o B e a c h H o u s e M i a m i , S o h o H o u s e B e r l i n a n d C e c c o n i ’ s i n L A , a s w e l l a s a l l t h e L o n d o n s i t e s : P i z z a E a s t S h o r e d i t c h , P i z z a E a s t P o r t o b e l l o C e c c o n i ’ s , D e a n S t r e e t T o w n H o u s e , S h o r e d i t c h H o u s e , T h e E l e c t r i c , C a f e B o h e m e , B K B , H i g h R o a d H o u s e i n C h i s w i c k , H o x t o n G r i l l a n d S o h o H o u s e . I f y o u ’ r e i n t e r e s t e d i n j o i n i n g o n e o f o u r k i t c h e n s e m a i l c o okh ou s e @ s o h oh ou s e . c om
T h i s i s s u e w e ’ r e t a k i n g a b u t c h e r ’ s a t m e a t a n d w h a t t h e k i t c h e n s d o w i t h i t , r e p o r t i n g b a c k f r o m s o m e o f t h e f a n t a s t i c t r i p s t h e c h e f s h a v e b e e n o n a n d l e a r n i n g a b o u t p e r f e c t p u d s f o r w i n t e r . P l u s a l l t h e n e w s f r o m t h e S o h o H o u s e G r o u p w o r l d w i d e .
E d i t o r R e b e c c a S e a l
A r t e t c . D o m i n i c S a l m o n
P u b l i s h e r D a n F l o w e rt h a n k s t o K a t H a r t i g a n , D y l a n M u r r a y , C a r o l i n e B o u c h e r ,
T h o m a s L e n n a r d , M a t t h e w A r m i s t e a d , R o n n i e B o n e t t i , A n t o n e l l a B o n e t t i ,
J o n P o l l a r d , M a t t G r e e n l e e s , P a u l G e r a r d , S h e l l e y A r m i s t e a d ,
M a u r i l i o M o l t e n i , A n d r e a C a v a l i e r e , S t e p h e n T o n k i n , E l i o t S a n d i f o r d ,
P h o e b e S t r a w s o n , G a r e t h J o n e s
Rising star chefs from around the world, guests in the kitchens, fundraisers and all the Soho House news
DIGEST THIS4Andrea Cavaliere on eating raw gnocchi and why he loves
his
pasta machine
WHAT I KNOW
8
SHG teams report back from Piedmont, Copenhagen, Berlin and Dorset
TAKIN’ A TRIP
10
A look at what butchering their own meat means to our chefs
MEATY BUSINESS 16Jon Pollard and his team from Pizza East Shoreditch take on MilanLE FOODING22WHEN THEY’RE NOT WORKING...24 what chefs get up to when they’re not at the stove
A member’s recipe for Guinness brownies
PURE GUINNESS30www.sohohouse.com
26
Welc ome t o t h e w inter 2 0 1 1
i s s u e o f C o okh ou s e , t h e S o h o
H ou s e f o od maga z i n e f o r c h e f s
a nd p e op l e wh o l ov e t o e at
Grey Goose vodka teams up with pastry
chef Matt Hayes to create brilliant
seasonal desserts
WINTER PUDDINGS
a taste...
Winter 2011
T u c k i n !T h i s m a g a z i n e c e l e b r a t e s t h e f o o d p h i l o s o p h y o f a l l t h e S o h o H o u s e G r o u p r e s t a u r a n t s w o r l d w i d e : S o h o H o u s e N e w Y o r k , B a b i n g t o n H o u s e i n S o m e r s e t , S o h o H o u s e W e s t H o l l y w o o d , S o h o B e a c h H o u s e M i a m i , S o h o H o u s e B e r l i n a n d C e c c o n i ’ s i n L A , a s w e l l a s a l l t h e L o n d o n s i t e s : P i z z a E a s t S h o r e d i t c h , P i z z a E a s t P o r t o b e l l o C e c c o n i ’ s , D e a n S t r e e t T o w n H o u s e , S h o r e d i t c h H o u s e , T h e E l e c t r i c , C a f e B o h e m e , B K B , H i g h R o a d H o u s e i n C h i s w i c k , H o x t o n G r i l l a n d S o h o H o u s e . I f y o u ’ r e i n t e r e s t e d i n j o i n i n g o n e o f o u r k i t c h e n s e m a i l c o okh ou s e @ s o h oh ou s e . c om
T h i s i s s u e w e ’ r e t a k i n g a b u t c h e r ’ s a t m e a t a n d w h a t t h e k i t c h e n s d o w i t h i t , r e p o r t i n g b a c k f r o m s o m e o f t h e f a n t a s t i c t r i p s t h e c h e f s h a v e b e e n o n a n d l e a r n i n g a b o u t p e r f e c t p u d s f o r w i n t e r . P l u s a l l t h e n e w s f r o m t h e S o h o H o u s e G r o u p w o r l d w i d e .
E d i t o r R e b e c c a S e a l
A r t e t c . D o m i n i c S a l m o n
P u b l i s h e r D a n F l o w e rt h a n k s t o K a t H a r t i g a n , D y l a n M u r r a y , C a r o l i n e B o u c h e r ,
T h o m a s L e n n a r d , M a t t h e w A r m i s t e a d , R o n n i e B o n e t t i , A n t o n e l l a B o n e t t i ,
J o n P o l l a r d , M a t t G r e e n l e e s , P a u l G e r a r d , S h e l l e y A r m i s t e a d ,
M a u r i l i o M o l t e n i , A n d r e a C a v a l i e r e , S t e p h e n T o n k i n , E l i o t S a n d i f o r d ,
P h o e b e S t r a w s o n , G a r e t h J o n e s
Rising star chefs from around the world, guests in the kitchens, fundraisers and all the Soho House news
DIGEST THIS4Andrea Cavaliere on eating raw gnocchi and why he loves
his
pasta machine
WHAT I KNOW
8
SHG teams report back from Piedmont, Copenhagen, Berlin and Dorset
TAKIN’ A TRIP
10
A look at what butchering their own meat means to our chefs
MEATY BUSINESS 16Jon Pollard and his team from Pizza East Shoreditch take on MilanLE FOODING22WHEN THEY’RE NOT WORKING...24 what chefs get up to when they’re not at the stove
A member’s recipe for Guinness brownies
PURE GUINNESS30www.sohohouse.com
26
Welc ome t o t h e w inter 2 0 1 1
i s s u e o f C o okh ou s e , t h e S o h o
H ou s e f o od maga z i n e f o r c h e f s
a nd p e op l e wh o l ov e t o e at
NIBBLES
bites...There’s a star...man
food news from around the world
Check out the new menu at Cecconi’s in West Holly-
wood if you get the chance – expect butternut squash
tortellini with leeks and pancetta, venison with chan-
terelles and chestnut, and strozzapreti served with
rabbit, black olives, lemon and thyme.
On October 8th, chef Paul Gerard and crew at Soho House New
York joined chef Paul’s old schoolmate, fireman Matthew
Hanley, and took part in a fundraiser for Firefighters for
Wounded Veterans in conjunction with Stephen Siller Tunnel
to Towers Foundation. The foundation had its sad beginnings
on September 11 2001 after the terrorist attacks on the World
Trade Centre. Stephen Siller, 34, a New York City firefighter
with Squad 1 in Park Slope, Brooklyn, raced on foot through the
smoke-filled tunnel carrying 80 pounds of gear after he was not
allowed to drive to Manhattan. He was last seen alive at West and
Liberty Sts.; the rest of his fire company was already there; they
all perished.
The team donated food for this year’s Oktoberfest-themed fundraiser on Staten Island,
which raised over $210,000 to build a special needs home for another deserving American
hero, U.S. Marine Corps Corporal Todd Nicely. USMC Corporal Nicely is the second
surviving quadruple amputee of the Afghan conflict, after he stepped on an IED on
March 26 2010.
Visit tunneltotowers.org for more information.
Yes guest chef!Also at Cecconi’s West Holly-wood, Andrea Cavaliere joined forces with celebrity guest chef Giada De Laurentiis, an Emmy award-winning celebrity chef who appears on the Food Network and Today programme in the US. Together, they cre-ated a four course Venetian inspired feast. The lunch and wine pairings were a part of the Los Angeles Food and Wine Festival.
The most important meal of the dayTo make sure its members are getting the most from their breakfast, Soho House West Hollywood has re-launched their breakfast menu. You can now tuck in to everything from truffled eggs on sour-dough, to ricotta pancakes and lemon curd. There’s even a brand new omelette bar. Yum.
Rooftop farmers’ marketOn certain Saturdays the rooftop of Soho House West Hollywood is given over to all manner of wholesome goodies with a new in-house farmers’ market. Come and stock up on local treats, and distract the kids from sweet things by get-ting their faces painted! For dates check www.houseseven.com
Meatball madnessNot only can you treat yourself to some amazing meat-balls every Tuesday at Pizza East Shoreditch but you can also have a whole meatball party. Book a semi-private space and choose from the mix-and-match meatball menu – think spicy pork, lamb or veal with spaghetti or polenta along with piles of antipasto and desserts.
COO K H O U SE5
COO K H O U SE4 www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
All change!
Keep the flame
Dean Street TownhouseHead chef Dave Green says: “I would like to nominate Rob Newbury, senior chef de partie. He has come to the Townhouse and really developed as a chef in a short space of time. He approaches the job with a can-do attitude and calm manner.”
Café BohemeHead chef Marcin Malinski says: “I have a rising star, Petr Svoboda, senior chef de partie. He has been with us at Café Boheme for only four months and has already managed to prove that he can run all sections of the kitchen. He’s very reliable, always on time and has a very artistic soul (he makes sculptures).”
Hoxton GrillHead chef Pete McAllister says: Tom Zeederberg has been with us at the Hoxton for nearly a year now, fresh off the boat from Cape Town S.A. where started his hospitality career five years ago. His passion for work has moved him up the ladder very fast and he is a master of all sections. Come in and try his juicy steaks off our grill, when he is not out fly fishing! I’d also like to say big ups to...DJ Who Who (aka Hussein Mohammed) for being one of the most consistent chef-de-parties. He is also a master of all sections and is an asset to our team.”
A few of Cecconi’s new dishes
BREAKFAST
Eggs (all eggs are free range & organic)
Eggs any style & toast
Rosti, fried duck egg
Wood baked frittata with wild mushrooms
& pancetta
Wood baked frittata with spinach
Egg white omelette, asparagus
Fresh herb & goat's cheese omelette
Florentine / Benedict / Royale
Scrambled eggs & smoked salmon
Sides
Fruit & Cereal
Seasonal fruit, natural yoghurt
Homemade granola, yoghurt & berries
Oatmeal, strawberries
Bread
Pastry or muffin
Bagel, smoked salmon & cream cheese
Panettone French toast, maple syrup
Pancakes & Waffles
Ricotta hotcakes, preserved blueberries
Waffle, mascarpone & mixed berries
Crépes with hazelnut chocolate & banana
9
10
8
4
11
9
8
8
8
8
11
11
9
11
9
11
11
2
6 9
4
4
4
4
4
5
5
5
5
Smoked salmon
Roast tomatoes
Avocado
Coffee & Chocolate
10 4 4
Applewood bacon
Spinach
Turkey bacon
Leaf Tea (all organic)
4 6 4
Rosti
Wild Mushrooms
Pork sausage
Fresh juices (squeezed at Cecconi’s)
4 9 5
Toast
Fresh fruit
Mixed berries
Iced Drinks (smoothies made with low fat frozen yoghurt)
Americano
Cappuccino
Café Latte
Peach tea
Lemon tea
Seasonal smoothie
Banana & strawberry
Peach & raspberry
Mixed berry
Espresso
Dbl espresso
Machiatto
Cappuccino
Café latte
Pot of coffee
Americano
Mocha
Hot chocolate
2
3
3
4
4
4
4
4
5
Breakfast
Earl Grey
Darjeeling
Lapsang Souchong
Green
White
Redbush
Chamomile
Chai
Jasmine
Fresh mint
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
4
Valencia orange
Blood orange
Grapefruit
Melon
Carrot
Apple
Pineapple
Seasonal juice
6
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
Monday to Wednesday open 7am to midnight • Thursday to Saturday open 7am to 2am • Sundays open 8am to 11pm
Breakfast served until 11:30 am
Lunch menu served 11:30 am to 5pm Dinner menu from 5pm
Brunch on weekends from 11am to 5pm
Pizza
Buffalo mozzarella, tomato & oregano 16
Sausage, brocolini & chili 18
Speck, butternut squash, chanterelle & gorgonzola 24
Bresaola, arugula & Parmigiano 24
Goat cheese & black truffle 36
DINNER
Zucchini fritti
Wild arugula & Parmigiano
Mashed potatoes
Rainbow chard
Roast potatoes
Sauteed spinach
Broccolini, garlic & chili
Peperonata
Appetizers
Lentil, barley & farro soup 10
Cauliflower soup 10
Buffalo mozzarella, cherry tomatoes 16
Calamari fritti, roast chili sauce 14
Grilled octopus, lemon, capers & olives 18
Roast scallops, pancetta & rosemary 18
Vitello tonnato 16
Cured meat selection 18
Pasta & Risotto
Risotto wild mushroom & sausage 24
Orecchiette, broccolini, garlic & chili 12/18
Potato gnocchi, crab & saffron 18/26
Pappardelle, wild boar ragout 14/22
Spaghetti lobster 32
‘Plin’ agnolotti & black truffle 22/30
Linguine, vongole & sea urchin 16/22
Strozzapreti, rabbit, black olives, lemon & thyme 16/22
Butternut squash & goat cheese tortelli 14/20
Charcoal Grill
Salmon, rainbow chard, butter & lemon 30
Halibut, romanesco & basil pesto 36
Prawns “Al Peperoncino” 38
Chicken paillard, sauteed kale & red onions 24
Lamb chops, fava beans, peas & artichokes 34
Dry aged New York ‘Tagliata’, peperonata 44
Venison chop, chanterelle & chestnuts 40
Wood Oven
Eggplant Parmigiana, wild arugula 22
Branzino filet, cherry tomatoes & taggiasca olives 36
Barolo braised short rib, celery root, heirloom carrots 34
Duck, potato rosti, saba 32
Sides all at 8
Carpaccio & Tartare
Carpaccio, Venetian dressing 18
Octopus carpaccio, blood orange , fennel & pistachio 20
Halibut tartare, spring onion, cucumber & lime 18
Beef tartare, quail egg & black truffle 22
Ahi tuna tartare, avocado, chili & mint 18
Salads
Quinoa, romanesco & shrimp 14/20
Roast beets, pomegranate, endive & burrata 12/18
Chopped fall vegetables & farro 10/16
Chicken, pancetta, apple, almond & Parmigiano 12/18
Seared Ahi tuna, tomatoes, romaine & avocado 14/20
Cicchetti
Squid ink seppioline, crispy polenta 10
Tuna crudo, avocado & butter lettuce 8
Quail egg & tonnata sauce 6
Zucchini blossom & goat cheese 8
Shishito peppers & anchovies 8
Gnocchi romana, gorgonzola 6
Salt cod croquettes, saffron aioli 8
Meatballs, tomato & basil 8
Lamb sausage & roast peppers 8
Porchetta & fontina “sandwiches” 7
Roast bone marrow, salsa verde 7
House selection 20
Open for Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner everyday. Brunch served on Saturday & Sunday
NIBBLES
bites...There’s a star...man
food news from around the world
Check out the new menu at Cecconi’s in West Holly-
wood if you get the chance – expect butternut squash
tortellini with leeks and pancetta, venison with chan-
terelles and chestnut, and strozzapreti served with
rabbit, black olives, lemon and thyme.
On October 8th, chef Paul Gerard and crew at Soho House New
York joined chef Paul’s old schoolmate, fireman Matthew
Hanley, and took part in a fundraiser for Firefighters for
Wounded Veterans in conjunction with Stephen Siller Tunnel
to Towers Foundation. The foundation had its sad beginnings
on September 11 2001 after the terrorist attacks on the World
Trade Centre. Stephen Siller, 34, a New York City firefighter
with Squad 1 in Park Slope, Brooklyn, raced on foot through the
smoke-filled tunnel carrying 80 pounds of gear after he was not
allowed to drive to Manhattan. He was last seen alive at West and
Liberty Sts.; the rest of his fire company was already there; they
all perished.
The team donated food for this year’s Oktoberfest-themed fundraiser on Staten Island,
which raised over $210,000 to build a special needs home for another deserving American
hero, U.S. Marine Corps Corporal Todd Nicely. USMC Corporal Nicely is the second
surviving quadruple amputee of the Afghan conflict, after he stepped on an IED on
March 26 2010.
Visit tunneltotowers.org for more information.
Yes guest chef!Also at Cecconi’s West Holly-wood, Andrea Cavaliere joined forces with celebrity guest chef Giada De Laurentiis, an Emmy award-winning celebrity chef who appears on the Food Network and Today programme in the US. Together, they cre-ated a four course Venetian inspired feast. The lunch and wine pairings were a part of the Los Angeles Food and Wine Festival.
The most important meal of the dayTo make sure its members are getting the most from their breakfast, Soho House West Hollywood has re-launched their breakfast menu. You can now tuck in to everything from truffled eggs on sour-dough, to ricotta pancakes and lemon curd. There’s even a brand new omelette bar. Yum.
Rooftop farmers’ marketOn certain Saturdays the rooftop of Soho House West Hollywood is given over to all manner of wholesome goodies with a new in-house farmers’ market. Come and stock up on local treats, and distract the kids from sweet things by get-ting their faces painted! For dates check www.houseseven.com
Meatball madnessNot only can you treat yourself to some amazing meat-balls every Tuesday at Pizza East Shoreditch but you can also have a whole meatball party. Book a semi-private space and choose from the mix-and-match meatball menu – think spicy pork, lamb or veal with spaghetti or polenta along with piles of antipasto and desserts.
COO K H O U SE5
COO K H O U SE4 www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
All change!
Keep the flame
Dean Street TownhouseHead chef Dave Green says: “I would like to nominate Rob Newbury, senior chef de partie. He has come to the Townhouse and really developed as a chef in a short space of time. He approaches the job with a can-do attitude and calm manner.”
Café BohemeHead chef Marcin Malinski says: “I have a rising star, Petr Svoboda, senior chef de partie. He has been with us at Café Boheme for only four months and has already managed to prove that he can run all sections of the kitchen. He’s very reliable, always on time and has a very artistic soul (he makes sculptures).”
Hoxton GrillHead chef Pete McAllister says: Tom Zeederberg has been with us at the Hoxton for nearly a year now, fresh off the boat from Cape Town S.A. where started his hospitality career five years ago. His passion for work has moved him up the ladder very fast and he is a master of all sections. Come in and try his juicy steaks off our grill, when he is not out fly fishing! I’d also like to say big ups to...DJ Who Who (aka Hussein Mohammed) for being one of the most consistent chef-de-parties. He is also a master of all sections and is an asset to our team.”
A few of Cecconi’s new dishes
BREAKFAST
Eggs (all eggs are free range & organic)
Eggs any style & toast
Rosti, fried duck egg
Wood baked frittata with wild mushrooms
& pancetta
Wood baked frittata with spinach
Egg white omelette, asparagus
Fresh herb & goat's cheese omelette
Florentine / Benedict / Royale
Scrambled eggs & smoked salmon
Sides
Fruit & Cereal
Seasonal fruit, natural yoghurt
Homemade granola, yoghurt & berries
Oatmeal, strawberries
Bread
Pastry or muffin
Bagel, smoked salmon & cream cheese
Panettone French toast, maple syrup
Pancakes & Waffles
Ricotta hotcakes, preserved blueberries
Waffle, mascarpone & mixed berries
Crépes with hazelnut chocolate & banana
9
10
8
4
11
9
8
8
8
8
11
11
9
11
9
11
11
2
6 9
4
4
4
4
4
5
5
5
5
Smoked salmon
Roast tomatoes
Avocado
Coffee & Chocolate
10 4 4
Applewood bacon
Spinach
Turkey bacon
Leaf Tea (all organic)
4 6 4
Rosti
Wild Mushrooms
Pork sausage
Fresh juices (squeezed at Cecconi’s)
4 9 5
Toast
Fresh fruit
Mixed berries
Iced Drinks (smoothies made with low fat frozen yoghurt)
Americano
Cappuccino
Café Latte
Peach tea
Lemon tea
Seasonal smoothie
Banana & strawberry
Peach & raspberry
Mixed berry
Espresso
Dbl espresso
Machiatto
Cappuccino
Café latte
Pot of coffee
Americano
Mocha
Hot chocolate
2
3
3
4
4
4
4
4
5
Breakfast
Earl Grey
Darjeeling
Lapsang Souchong
Green
White
Redbush
Chamomile
Chai
Jasmine
Fresh mint
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
4
Valencia orange
Blood orange
Grapefruit
Melon
Carrot
Apple
Pineapple
Seasonal juice
6
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
Monday to Wednesday open 7am to midnight • Thursday to Saturday open 7am to 2am • Sundays open 8am to 11pm
Breakfast served until 11:30 am
Lunch menu served 11:30 am to 5pm Dinner menu from 5pm
Brunch on weekends from 11am to 5pm
Pizza
Buffalo mozzarella, tomato & oregano 16
Sausage, brocolini & chili 18
Speck, butternut squash, chanterelle & gorgonzola 24
Bresaola, arugula & Parmigiano 24
Goat cheese & black truffle 36
DINNER
Zucchini fritti
Wild arugula & Parmigiano
Mashed potatoes
Rainbow chard
Roast potatoes
Sauteed spinach
Broccolini, garlic & chili
Peperonata
Appetizers
Lentil, barley & farro soup 10
Cauliflower soup 10
Buffalo mozzarella, cherry tomatoes 16
Calamari fritti, roast chili sauce 14
Grilled octopus, lemon, capers & olives 18
Roast scallops, pancetta & rosemary 18
Vitello tonnato 16
Cured meat selection 18
Pasta & Risotto
Risotto wild mushroom & sausage 24
Orecchiette, broccolini, garlic & chili 12/18
Potato gnocchi, crab & saffron 18/26
Pappardelle, wild boar ragout 14/22
Spaghetti lobster 32
‘Plin’ agnolotti & black truffle 22/30
Linguine, vongole & sea urchin 16/22
Strozzapreti, rabbit, black olives, lemon & thyme 16/22
Butternut squash & goat cheese tortelli 14/20
Charcoal Grill
Salmon, rainbow chard, butter & lemon 30
Halibut, romanesco & basil pesto 36
Prawns “Al Peperoncino” 38
Chicken paillard, sauteed kale & red onions 24
Lamb chops, fava beans, peas & artichokes 34
Dry aged New York ‘Tagliata’, peperonata 44
Venison chop, chanterelle & chestnuts 40
Wood Oven
Eggplant Parmigiana, wild arugula 22
Branzino filet, cherry tomatoes & taggiasca olives 36
Barolo braised short rib, celery root, heirloom carrots 34
Duck, potato rosti, saba 32
Sides all at 8
Carpaccio & Tartare
Carpaccio, Venetian dressing 18
Octopus carpaccio, blood orange , fennel & pistachio 20
Halibut tartare, spring onion, cucumber & lime 18
Beef tartare, quail egg & black truffle 22
Ahi tuna tartare, avocado, chili & mint 18
Salads
Quinoa, romanesco & shrimp 14/20
Roast beets, pomegranate, endive & burrata 12/18
Chopped fall vegetables & farro 10/16
Chicken, pancetta, apple, almond & Parmigiano 12/18
Seared Ahi tuna, tomatoes, romaine & avocado 14/20
Cicchetti
Squid ink seppioline, crispy polenta 10
Tuna crudo, avocado & butter lettuce 8
Quail egg & tonnata sauce 6
Zucchini blossom & goat cheese 8
Shishito peppers & anchovies 8
Gnocchi romana, gorgonzola 6
Salt cod croquettes, saffron aioli 8
Meatballs, tomato & basil 8
Lamb sausage & roast peppers 8
Porchetta & fontina “sandwiches” 7
Roast bone marrow, salsa verde 7
House selection 20
Open for Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner everyday. Brunch served on Saturday & Sunday
NIBBLES
COO K H O U SE7
COO K H O U SE6
wooly bulli
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
As part of the events around the NY Wine and Food Festival,
legendary Spanish chef Ferran Adria visited Soho House New
York to showcase his new book – The Family Meal: Home Cooking
with Ferran Adria. Executive chef Paul Gerard introduced him
to the members who’d come to hear him talk: “It was one of the
rare moments in my life when I felt I was in the presence of
greatness. Even though his food is not entirely my thing, it
was emotional.”
Festival founder Lee Schrager also chose Soho House NY as the
spot for his post-festival chefs’ after party – inviting 250
chefs to party on the roof, including Ferran Adria, Andrew
Zimmern and Bobby Flay. Chef Paul pulled out all the stops:
“The bites, bits, small cups and canapés can leave you yearning,
even after a full day
of ‘eating.’ It doesn’t
have to be so avant-
garde. I like my food
to be simple – like three chord rock ‘n’
roll” So he served up everything from BLT
banh mi to Coney Island clam sandwiches
and meatball sliders. Everyone had a
blast and went home stuffed, in the best
possible way. Lee Shrager tweeted “best
chef after-party ever!”
If you love beer, then Soho Beach House Miami was the best place to be this Oktoberfest. Think steins of ale and lager, pretzels, lederhosen and lots of pretty peasant blouses (and pretty peasants!).
QR as folk
Above left, Paul Gerard and Ferran Adria; above, Ferran introduces his book
EIN STEIN ON THE BEACH
Check out the film of the night here – www.herocontent.com/soho-house.
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
how you like dem apples?Thanks to James and Helene S
herwin from Court
farm Standerwick, guests at Babington can
sample delicious apple juice, made from fruits
grown in the walled garden. They’ve loaned
Babington the use of their apple press and are
saving lots of lovely apples from the compost.
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
Check this out – it’s our new QR code. Just zap it with your smartphone and you’ll be taken straight to our website (www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse) for loads of extra content.
Fest of fury: Ze kerazeevolk of Miami let their lederhosen down
NIBBLES
COO K H O U SE7
COO K H O U SE6
wooly bulli
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
As part of the events around the NY Wine and Food Festival,
legendary Spanish chef Ferran Adria visited Soho House New
York to showcase his new book – The Family Meal: Home Cooking
with Ferran Adria. Executive chef Paul Gerard introduced him
to the members who’d come to hear him talk: “It was one of the
rare moments in my life when I felt I was in the presence of
greatness. Even though his food is not entirely my thing, it
was emotional.”
Festival founder Lee Schrager also chose Soho House NY as the
spot for his post-festival chefs’ after party – inviting 250
chefs to party on the roof, including Ferran Adria, Andrew
Zimmern and Bobby Flay. Chef Paul pulled out all the stops:
“The bites, bits, small cups and canapés can leave you yearning,
even after a full day
of ‘eating.’ It doesn’t
have to be so avant-
garde. I like my food
to be simple – like three chord rock ‘n’
roll” So he served up everything from BLT
banh mi to Coney Island clam sandwiches
and meatball sliders. Everyone had a
blast and went home stuffed, in the best
possible way. Lee Shrager tweeted “best
chef after-party ever!”
If you love beer, then Soho Beach House Miami was the best place to be this Oktoberfest. Think steins of ale and lager, pretzels, lederhosen and lots of pretty peasant blouses (and pretty peasants!).
QR as folk
Above left, Paul Gerard and Ferran Adria; above, Ferran introduces his book
EIN STEIN ON THE BEACH
Check out the film of the night here – www.herocontent.com/soho-house.
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
how you like dem apples?Thanks to James and Helene S
herwin from Court
farm Standerwick, guests at Babington can
sample delicious apple juice, made from fruits
grown in the walled garden. They’ve loaned
Babington the use of their apple press and are
saving lots of lovely apples from the compost.
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
Check this out – it’s our new QR code. Just zap it with your smartphone and you’ll be taken straight to our website (www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse) for loads of extra content.
Fest of fury: Ze kerazeevolk of Miami let their lederhosen down
Andrea Cavaliere, executive/corporate chef, America, 37
My earliest memory of cooking is making cookies with my mother when I was
very little. I also remember stealing her gnocchi to eat raw. For me and my
brother it was a game because we’d get into trouble.
I’m inspired by the chefs I work with today and the chefs I’ve worked with
in the past. I hope that in some way I inspire the chefs I work with too. It’s
about being part of a team. Also, Nick Jones [Soho House Group CEO] always
inspires me. He pushes us and is on top of everything. With the chefs and
directors in head office in London we exchange a lot of pictures and ideas.
When I create a dish, I think about what their reactions to it will be and
whether the customers will like it. Will it be popular and profitable?
Creating a dish is like coming up with the perfect solution to a dilemma.
Something I am proud of is creating teams. When we re-opened Cecconi’s in
London in 2004, we had a great team – and today they are all head chefs or
executive chefs elsewhere in the Soho House Group. Now, I’ve done the same
over here – if we want to open another venue, I have a team of chefs ready
to move up to the next level.
The best part of this is opening new restaurants. That is where my strengths
lie and creativity shines the most.
what i know
starters
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
COO K H O U SE09
COO K H O U SE08
to find out more about how you could become part of the Soho House Group team contact [email protected]
want
to cook?
“ I started as
a commis at
Turin Palace.
Now, that was a
proper kitchen
brigade”
Andrea’s advice? Stay sharp!
I like quite hardcore exercise. I cycle, go spinning and I surf when I am on holiday, I also just joined a Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu club. To relax I spend time with my lovely wife and 11-month old daughter. That’s the best; it completely makes my day to spend even just half an hour with them.
My favourite piece of equipment is my Cavatelli pasta machine – a small machine you turn by hand. I use it for specials. I also like my truffle shaver a lot at the moment. I really love cooking with wood-burning ovens as well. I know they’re a pain in the ass to use because they’re not controllable like a normal oven, but they take cooking to a different level.
I’ve never been paid to do anything except cook. I was 16 when I got my first job. I started as a commis at Turin Palace. Now, that was a proper kitchen brigade, divided up in the old style. The chef was god there – I never would have spoken to him. Everyone was a professional: the pasta chef was 50, he’d been doing the pasta for 35 years. It wasn’t for him to learn and move on, this was what he did. Front of house staff were the same – no-one wanted to be an actor. I loved it and hated it there as well. I worked for seven years at the Neal Street Restaurant, which was run by Antonio Carluccio. I learned so much from him about ingredients. I’d been cooking in Michelin-starred restaurants in Italy but it was chefs’ food – he took me back to the basics of Italian food, regular food. There was very little of that around 15 years ago. Antonio was part of an inspiring movement of Italian chefs in London, along with Giorgio Locatelli and the River Cafe.
Nowadays I do a crazy job. I’m based in LA but I work in Miami and New York as well. There are time differences and seasonal differences to contend with and it was definitely a big change from waking up, going to the kitchen and deciding what to cook that day.
I enjoy it a lot – I love supporting and creating with the head and executive chefs and all the festivals, events and pop-ups are really exciting.
“ I love supporting and
creating with the other head
and executive chefs”
Andrea Cavaliere, executive/corporate chef, America, 37
My earliest memory of cooking is making cookies with my mother when I was
very little. I also remember stealing her gnocchi to eat raw. For me and my
brother it was a game because we’d get into trouble.
I’m inspired by the chefs I work with today and the chefs I’ve worked with
in the past. I hope that in some way I inspire the chefs I work with too. It’s
about being part of a team. Also, Nick Jones [Soho House Group CEO] always
inspires me. He pushes us and is on top of everything. With the chefs and
directors in head office in London we exchange a lot of pictures and ideas.
When I create a dish, I think about what their reactions to it will be and
whether the customers will like it. Will it be popular and profitable?
Creating a dish is like coming up with the perfect solution to a dilemma.
Something I am proud of is creating teams. When we re-opened Cecconi’s in
London in 2004, we had a great team – and today they are all head chefs or
executive chefs elsewhere in the Soho House Group. Now, I’ve done the same
over here – if we want to open another venue, I have a team of chefs ready
to move up to the next level.
The best part of this is opening new restaurants. That is where my strengths
lie and creativity shines the most.
what i know
starters
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
COO K H O U SE09
COO K H O U SE08
to find out more about how you could become part of the Soho House Group team contact [email protected]
want
to cook?
“ I started as
a commis at
Turin Palace.
Now, that was a
proper kitchen
brigade”
Andrea’s advice? Stay sharp!
I like quite hardcore exercise. I cycle, go spinning and I surf when I am on holiday, I also just joined a Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu club. To relax I spend time with my lovely wife and 11-month old daughter. That’s the best; it completely makes my day to spend even just half an hour with them.
My favourite piece of equipment is my Cavatelli pasta machine – a small machine you turn by hand. I use it for specials. I also like my truffle shaver a lot at the moment. I really love cooking with wood-burning ovens as well. I know they’re a pain in the ass to use because they’re not controllable like a normal oven, but they take cooking to a different level.
I’ve never been paid to do anything except cook. I was 16 when I got my first job. I started as a commis at Turin Palace. Now, that was a proper kitchen brigade, divided up in the old style. The chef was god there – I never would have spoken to him. Everyone was a professional: the pasta chef was 50, he’d been doing the pasta for 35 years. It wasn’t for him to learn and move on, this was what he did. Front of house staff were the same – no-one wanted to be an actor. I loved it and hated it there as well. I worked for seven years at the Neal Street Restaurant, which was run by Antonio Carluccio. I learned so much from him about ingredients. I’d been cooking in Michelin-starred restaurants in Italy but it was chefs’ food – he took me back to the basics of Italian food, regular food. There was very little of that around 15 years ago. Antonio was part of an inspiring movement of Italian chefs in London, along with Giorgio Locatelli and the River Cafe.
Nowadays I do a crazy job. I’m based in LA but I work in Miami and New York as well. There are time differences and seasonal differences to contend with and it was definitely a big change from waking up, going to the kitchen and deciding what to cook that day.
I enjoy it a lot – I love supporting and creating with the head and executive chefs and all the festivals, events and pop-ups are really exciting.
“ I love supporting and
creating with the other head
and executive chefs”
How now brown cow?
on tour!
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
Sometimes you need to step away from the stove to get inspired. We catch up with the Soho House teams who’ve been on the road
COO K H O U SE10
COO K H O U SE11
Babington House’s senior sous Neil Smith and duty manager Kelly Wardingham took a trip to the multi-award winning Brown Cow Organics farm nearby, who produce fantastic organic beef and dairy.
“Kelly and I arrived at the farm, which is when I noticed how much of an idiot Kelly had been. I mean, she turned up in suede open-toe shoes to a farm…So after she borrowed some wellies from the farmer’s daughter we headed out, disinfected our feet and made straight for the cow fields to explore. The cows were a little friendlier than we first expected, as we found out when a cow wrapped her tongue around Kelly’s hand! Field after field we found ourselves not only learning about the farm but also longing to find the next blackberry bush. Following the tour we were treated to a taster of some of the amazing produce that comes out of Brown Cow Organics, then we were sent on our way (minus the wellies), goodie bag in hand filled with an amazing array of treats. (Kelly was back in those suede shoes and the muddy walk back to the car didn’t bode well.) We set off back to Babington very intrigued by the Christmas pudding-flavoured yoghurt we had been given...”
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
“ she turned up in suede open-toe shoes, to a farm…”
How now brown cow?
on tour!
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
Sometimes you need to step away from the stove to get inspired. We catch up with the Soho House teams who’ve been on the road
COO K H O U SE10
COO K H O U SE11
Babington House’s senior sous Neil Smith and duty manager Kelly Wardingham took a trip to the multi-award winning Brown Cow Organics farm nearby, who produce fantastic organic beef and dairy.
“Kelly and I arrived at the farm, which is when I noticed how much of an idiot Kelly had been. I mean, she turned up in suede open-toe shoes to a farm…So after she borrowed some wellies from the farmer’s daughter we headed out, disinfected our feet and made straight for the cow fields to explore. The cows were a little friendlier than we first expected, as we found out when a cow wrapped her tongue around Kelly’s hand! Field after field we found ourselves not only learning about the farm but also longing to find the next blackberry bush. Following the tour we were treated to a taster of some of the amazing produce that comes out of Brown Cow Organics, then we were sent on our way (minus the wellies), goodie bag in hand filled with an amazing array of treats. (Kelly was back in those suede shoes and the muddy walk back to the car didn’t bode well.) We set off back to Babington very intrigued by the Christmas pudding-flavoured yoghurt we had been given...”
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
“ she turned up in suede open-toe shoes, to a farm…”
Daniele Pampagnin organised a trip for the Group’s executive chefs to Piedmont
“We started planning this trip in January. We went with Gastronomica who supply us with cured meat and cheeses, firstly at Cecconi’s but now across the group. The team included Dylan Murray, F&B director, Martin Kuczmarski, operations director and then Ronnie Bonetti from Babington, Matt Hayes, executive pastry chef, Andrea Cavaliere, US executive chef, me and some other Italian head chefs from other London restaurants like Zucca. Funnily enough we discovered that all of them had, at some point, worked in Soho House Group kitchens.
We visited places that do amazing products, like Lo Puy, a raw milk goat’s cheese producer and Castelmagno, which also does award-winning cheese. But the two biggest events were when we met the president of the region of Piedmont, in a big old townhouse with a huge main room where he’d gathered loads of journalists and television crews. We had a proper conference and gave speeches about the business which was quite cool.
Another purpose of the trip was to forge a partnership with a catering college in Piedmont, which was a great success – the first four of their chefs who are joining the company have already arrived in the UK, and we have a list of a further 16 who want to come here. We were given a lunch at the school which was brilliant – the dessert was outstanding.
Over the rest of the trip we had more incredible food. Everyone had warned us to watch out for the fritto misto in Piedmont, as it’s not what you’d expect, and they were right – we ate fried brains and even testicles! One evening we had a real feast up one of the mountains where lots of local producers had come together, bringing their own specialities with them – we tried a very lean veal called fassone, which you only eat raw, any type of cheese you can imagine, piles of pasta, barbecued meat and fish. It was a beautiful party and a wonderful trip.”
on tour!
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
Attendees got to try dishes by the guest speakers
COO K H O U SE12
COO K H O U SE13
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
piedmont piPers....
mad for it
“I got more excited the closer I got to Heathrow. I was heading to the MAD food festival with two lads, James Lowe (former head chef at St John Bread and Wine) and Isaac McHale (former development chef at the Ledbury). They’re also known as the Young Turks and are getting international acclaim for their pop-up restaurant in Spitalfields. I met Isaac a few months back when I helped him out with an event. We were on the way to Copenhagen, home to René Redzepi of Noma and a few other great Danes. René had organised a food festival on an ex-military island in Copenhagen harbour. The festival had attracted some of the most innovative and influential chefs, scientists, food system analysts, journalists...and me!
This year René Redzepi (currently best chef in the world) hosted his first ever food festival in Copenhagen – MAD Foodcamp. Nicholas Fitzgerald, junior sous at Pizza East in Shoreditch, went along to find out more.
The team ready to visit a cheese factory
Ronnie Bonetti
“ We ate fried brains and even testicles!”
“We had a brilliant time. It was a great day – and I caught a fish for the first time in my life! There were 15 of us, both front-of-house and kitchen staff and we headed out to a lake for some serious trout fishing. The lake has a smokery as well, and we tried most of the products that they do there. Everyone caught at least one fish and we put them on the menu the next day as a special, as both a mousse with potatoes, baby spinach salad and poached egg, and roasted with capers, olives, basil, tomato and clams. It was everyone’s day off and so we had a few drinks – a few of the Germans had brought along some whisky, the Poles bought a kind of vodka with gold in it and I took some beers. Whenever I do these trips everyone is enthusiastic but this one was the most excited group I’ve taken out, which was really fantastic. It’s so good but it’s a chance for people to get to know each other outside work.”
The Soho House Berlin team got a taste of the Cookhouse action with a fishing trip hosted by group Italian executive chef Daniele Pampagnin.
“ I caught a fish for the first time in my life!”
gone fishing
Catch of the day
Daniele Pampagnin organised a trip for the Group’s executive chefs to Piedmont
“We started planning this trip in January. We went with Gastronomica who supply us with cured meat and cheeses, firstly at Cecconi’s but now across the group. The team included Dylan Murray, F&B director, Martin Kuczmarski, operations director and then Ronnie Bonetti from Babington, Matt Hayes, executive pastry chef, Andrea Cavaliere, US executive chef, me and some other Italian head chefs from other London restaurants like Zucca. Funnily enough we discovered that all of them had, at some point, worked in Soho House Group kitchens.
We visited places that do amazing products, like Lo Puy, a raw milk goat’s cheese producer and Castelmagno, which also does award-winning cheese. But the two biggest events were when we met the president of the region of Piedmont, in a big old townhouse with a huge main room where he’d gathered loads of journalists and television crews. We had a proper conference and gave speeches about the business which was quite cool.
Another purpose of the trip was to forge a partnership with a catering college in Piedmont, which was a great success – the first four of their chefs who are joining the company have already arrived in the UK, and we have a list of a further 16 who want to come here. We were given a lunch at the school which was brilliant – the dessert was outstanding.
Over the rest of the trip we had more incredible food. Everyone had warned us to watch out for the fritto misto in Piedmont, as it’s not what you’d expect, and they were right – we ate fried brains and even testicles! One evening we had a real feast up one of the mountains where lots of local producers had come together, bringing their own specialities with them – we tried a very lean veal called fassone, which you only eat raw, any type of cheese you can imagine, piles of pasta, barbecued meat and fish. It was a beautiful party and a wonderful trip.”
on tour!
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
Attendees got to try dishes by the guest speakers
COO K H O U SE12
COO K H O U SE13
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
piedmont piPers....
mad for it
“I got more excited the closer I got to Heathrow. I was heading to the MAD food festival with two lads, James Lowe (former head chef at St John Bread and Wine) and Isaac McHale (former development chef at the Ledbury). They’re also known as the Young Turks and are getting international acclaim for their pop-up restaurant in Spitalfields. I met Isaac a few months back when I helped him out with an event. We were on the way to Copenhagen, home to René Redzepi of Noma and a few other great Danes. René had organised a food festival on an ex-military island in Copenhagen harbour. The festival had attracted some of the most innovative and influential chefs, scientists, food system analysts, journalists...and me!
This year René Redzepi (currently best chef in the world) hosted his first ever food festival in Copenhagen – MAD Foodcamp. Nicholas Fitzgerald, junior sous at Pizza East in Shoreditch, went along to find out more.
The team ready to visit a cheese factory
Ronnie Bonetti
“ We ate fried brains and even testicles!”
“We had a brilliant time. It was a great day – and I caught a fish for the first time in my life! There were 15 of us, both front-of-house and kitchen staff and we headed out to a lake for some serious trout fishing. The lake has a smokery as well, and we tried most of the products that they do there. Everyone caught at least one fish and we put them on the menu the next day as a special, as both a mousse with potatoes, baby spinach salad and poached egg, and roasted with capers, olives, basil, tomato and clams. It was everyone’s day off and so we had a few drinks – a few of the Germans had brought along some whisky, the Poles bought a kind of vodka with gold in it and I took some beers. Whenever I do these trips everyone is enthusiastic but this one was the most excited group I’ve taken out, which was really fantastic. It’s so good but it’s a chance for people to get to know each other outside work.”
The Soho House Berlin team got a taste of the Cookhouse action with a fishing trip hosted by group Italian executive chef Daniele Pampagnin.
“ I caught a fish for the first time in my life!”
gone fishing
Catch of the day
on tour!
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
COO K H O U SE15
COO K H O U SE14
to find out more about how you could become part of the Soho House Group team contact [email protected]
want to
work and
travel?
We were talking about the food festival more animatedly then any music festival I have been to. The names I had marked off on the line-up were (drum roll): René Redzepi; Miles Irving, who is leading the foraging revolution in this country; Daniel Patterson, one of the best chefs in the US; Iñaki Aizpitarte, part of Le Fooding in Paris; Magnus Nilsson from Fäviken, one of the new best chefs in the world; Ben Shewry, one of the best in Australia; Massimo Bottura, one of the best in Italy; Michel Bras, a legendary French chef with three Michelin stars; Harold McGee who is held in high regard his books on food science; David Chang, chef-owner of Momofuku restaurants in NYC and Andoni Aduriz, one of the most innovative chefs in Spain with a two-Michelin-starred restaurant. With this level of talent and skill all in one place we were very much looking forward to the festival.
We arived and I went to my hotel, which gave a new meaning to two stars and reminded me more of a cabin on a boat than a hotel room. The floor couldn’t fit four people lying down (proven later by three Swedish girls and James...). Meanwhile James and Isaac went to stay in Malmo and go out for great meals with one of the best food photographers in the world, Per-Anders Jorgensen.
There were some amazing speakers during the festival (see next page) but highlights also included everyone eating together on the final night underneath a bridge where a natural wine supplier has a restaurant. The meal was great: tasty cheeses, fresh rye bread, hot soup, salads, grilled fish, berries and ice-cream for dessert. After the meal was finished, the French chefs had smashed some of the glasses and got a bit naked on top of the tables, I left for the airport. It was an amazing trip. I am sure it gave everyone things to think about and I am looking forward to next year.”
Tor Norretranders, Food Systems analystRené gave a short but powerful introduction to this speaker: “He’s the most intelligent man I know”. His talk was about how our food system has changed and possible models for the future of farming. He explained statistics to the audience with an underlying sadness: “90% of crop diversity has disappeared in the last generation...There is a war on our food system...60% of food calories intake comes from four crops: corn, rice, potatoes and wheat.” He talked about the degrading effect that monocultures have on soil and how there needs to be a new approach if we want keep living on this planet.
Miles Irving, foragerMiles is author of the Foragers Handbook and is responsible for helping revitalise foraging in the UK, Ireland and some of mainland Europe. He would go foraging in the woods with his grandfather, who would tell Miles that there was treasure there waiting to be found. After his talk he took people around the field finding edible plants, seeds and weeds, like fennel blossom which tasted like a rock candy version of fennel, shockingly sweet. The field looked nondescript to the untrained eye but it was full of things to eat.
Daniel Patterson, chefOne of the first chefs to give a talk, Daniel is from a restaurant in San Francisco, called Coi. He spoke about the history of beetroot and its place on menus around the world. He said he clocked the dish on seven menus in the local area when he was thinking about giving his talk. He handed out beetroot gummy bears to everyone at the end of his talk which he had spent months perfecting the recipe for!
Hans Herman, food systems analystAnother man with impressive and worrying statistics about our food system. “75% of agri-diversity has been lost in 50 years...and three major companies control what is eaten today by controlling seeds.” During the Q&A session things got quite interesting as difficult questions were being asked of both Tor and Hans about the future of food. When a question about control over what we eat came up, Daniel Patterson gave an encouraging answer: “Industrial agriculture has changed what is eaten in one generation. But what that means is it can be changed again in one more generation.” I was a bit stunned for a second by how simply this was put.
Inaki Aizpitarte, chefInaki did a food demonstration, involving salty sea asparagus/samphire being made into a risotto with parsley butter. This was paired with a crisp, dry, citrussy white wine. His was a hilarious demo, as well as being very good and tasty.
Magnus Milsson, chefMagnus gave a calm and understated insight into how his extraordinary restaurant works. It is located in northern Sweden where for six months of the year nothing grows as it is covered in snow. He supplies the restaurant with local produce, including from the small organic farm that they have. He showed us how they store vegetables in sand to preserve them, the various pickles that are made and how he rotates the crops on eight growing plots around the restaurant.
Just a few of the incredible speakers who appeared at the MAD Food Camp
“ The festival had attracted some of the most innovative and influential chefs, scientists, food system analysts, journalists...and me!”
Clockwise from below: speakers at MAD; Andoni Aduriz, Alex Atala, Gaston Acurio and René Redzepi; Michel Bras assisted by Oliver Stephens, a Noma chef
Alex Atala, chef at Restaurant D.O.M in Sao Paulo
on tour!
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
COO K H O U SE15
COO K H O U SE14
to find out more about how you could become part of the Soho House Group team contact [email protected]
want to
work and
travel?
We were talking about the food festival more animatedly then any music festival I have been to. The names I had marked off on the line-up were (drum roll): René Redzepi; Miles Irving, who is leading the foraging revolution in this country; Daniel Patterson, one of the best chefs in the US; Iñaki Aizpitarte, part of Le Fooding in Paris; Magnus Nilsson from Fäviken, one of the new best chefs in the world; Ben Shewry, one of the best in Australia; Massimo Bottura, one of the best in Italy; Michel Bras, a legendary French chef with three Michelin stars; Harold McGee who is held in high regard his books on food science; David Chang, chef-owner of Momofuku restaurants in NYC and Andoni Aduriz, one of the most innovative chefs in Spain with a two-Michelin-starred restaurant. With this level of talent and skill all in one place we were very much looking forward to the festival.
We arived and I went to my hotel, which gave a new meaning to two stars and reminded me more of a cabin on a boat than a hotel room. The floor couldn’t fit four people lying down (proven later by three Swedish girls and James...). Meanwhile James and Isaac went to stay in Malmo and go out for great meals with one of the best food photographers in the world, Per-Anders Jorgensen.
There were some amazing speakers during the festival (see next page) but highlights also included everyone eating together on the final night underneath a bridge where a natural wine supplier has a restaurant. The meal was great: tasty cheeses, fresh rye bread, hot soup, salads, grilled fish, berries and ice-cream for dessert. After the meal was finished, the French chefs had smashed some of the glasses and got a bit naked on top of the tables, I left for the airport. It was an amazing trip. I am sure it gave everyone things to think about and I am looking forward to next year.”
Tor Norretranders, Food Systems analystRené gave a short but powerful introduction to this speaker: “He’s the most intelligent man I know”. His talk was about how our food system has changed and possible models for the future of farming. He explained statistics to the audience with an underlying sadness: “90% of crop diversity has disappeared in the last generation...There is a war on our food system...60% of food calories intake comes from four crops: corn, rice, potatoes and wheat.” He talked about the degrading effect that monocultures have on soil and how there needs to be a new approach if we want keep living on this planet.
Miles Irving, foragerMiles is author of the Foragers Handbook and is responsible for helping revitalise foraging in the UK, Ireland and some of mainland Europe. He would go foraging in the woods with his grandfather, who would tell Miles that there was treasure there waiting to be found. After his talk he took people around the field finding edible plants, seeds and weeds, like fennel blossom which tasted like a rock candy version of fennel, shockingly sweet. The field looked nondescript to the untrained eye but it was full of things to eat.
Daniel Patterson, chefOne of the first chefs to give a talk, Daniel is from a restaurant in San Francisco, called Coi. He spoke about the history of beetroot and its place on menus around the world. He said he clocked the dish on seven menus in the local area when he was thinking about giving his talk. He handed out beetroot gummy bears to everyone at the end of his talk which he had spent months perfecting the recipe for!
Hans Herman, food systems analystAnother man with impressive and worrying statistics about our food system. “75% of agri-diversity has been lost in 50 years...and three major companies control what is eaten today by controlling seeds.” During the Q&A session things got quite interesting as difficult questions were being asked of both Tor and Hans about the future of food. When a question about control over what we eat came up, Daniel Patterson gave an encouraging answer: “Industrial agriculture has changed what is eaten in one generation. But what that means is it can be changed again in one more generation.” I was a bit stunned for a second by how simply this was put.
Inaki Aizpitarte, chefInaki did a food demonstration, involving salty sea asparagus/samphire being made into a risotto with parsley butter. This was paired with a crisp, dry, citrussy white wine. His was a hilarious demo, as well as being very good and tasty.
Magnus Milsson, chefMagnus gave a calm and understated insight into how his extraordinary restaurant works. It is located in northern Sweden where for six months of the year nothing grows as it is covered in snow. He supplies the restaurant with local produce, including from the small organic farm that they have. He showed us how they store vegetables in sand to preserve them, the various pickles that are made and how he rotates the crops on eight growing plots around the restaurant.
Just a few of the incredible speakers who appeared at the MAD Food Camp
“ The festival had attracted some of the most innovative and influential chefs, scientists, food system analysts, journalists...and me!”
Clockwise from below: speakers at MAD; Andoni Aduriz, Alex Atala, Gaston Acurio and René Redzepi; Michel Bras assisted by Oliver Stephens, a Noma chef
Alex Atala, chef at Restaurant D.O.M in Sao Paulo
meat the gang
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COO K H O U SE17
COO K H O U SE16
Have a butc hers at thisChefs who know where their meat comes from treat it with more respect. Here, three chefs explain why butchery is important to them
meat the gang
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COO K H O U SE17
COO K H O U SE16
Have a butc hers at thisChefs who know where their meat comes from treat it with more respect. Here, three chefs explain why butchery is important to them
In New York, executive chef Paul
Gerard is passionate about butchery:
“In Soho House New York, we butcher, break down, snap bones, trim fat, dissect,
section, subdivide, slice, dice ‘n’ chop all primal cuts! Butchering on a grander
scale, especially here in The Meatpacking
District, is readily accessible, and the opportunity to learn the craft is at any
cook’s precariously-placed fingertips. I for one, at 16, had the luck of landing a
position with a local butcher and got to
learn the process of breaking down freshly-
slaughtered veal right smack dab in the
inner city. It’s a skill that is pertinent
to the process of cooking and absolutely
needs to be reflected upon with regards to
respecting meat as not only something that
comes wrapped in plastic and branded with
barcodes, but as a living and breathing creature. Whoever handles it subsequently
needs to make sure that the animal was not
slain in vain. When a cook goes through the
process of being elbow-deep for hours in
what looks like the set of a Dario Argento
film, sliding steel across steel, wielding
hooks, and hot-boning at the foot of meat
trees and gambrels, it’s an occasion for gratitude toward the livestock that will be
tonight’s special.
The cooks here save the trimmings for staff sandwiches and render the fat for
fried potatoes. We grasp the big picture from side of beef to steak, and value the
weight with much more reverence than a
tick on an invoice and the menu price of a
piece of meat on a plate. It’s so easy to get
lost in the process of serving one thousand
diners a day, and the tools of our trade
become so much mortar and bricks; but to
butcher, even from convenient cuts – like
racks of ribs and shells of sirloin – keeps
in mind that the task is only as noble as we
demand it remains.
There is
too much of a cut-off between butchering
and cooking. The frightening fact of kitchen life of late is that too many cooks can’t cut a deal, let alone veal. The
view imposed on them through chef-driven
fare is far from a philosophy of food; it
is an attitude toward art. They want to create cool coloured oils and swirl leggy
wines at crisp-clothed tables in clean chef coats because they’ve drifted from the
reptilian brain of cookery. They’ve cut themselves off from those who knew how to cook what they caught and killed with
their own hands. They’ve released themselves
from sufficiently suffering with the slaughtered, and creating a karmic flow
that all good butchers believe is their salvation, knowing that salivating alone is
not enough.
I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again
a thousand times before my time chained
to the range has been pardoned by the governors of grace…cooking is a craft. Skilled labour. It should be well-regarded
for its working-class ways. If you are not
skilled from soup to nuts, you may want to
roll up your sleeves, sharpen your blades,
bend down toward the cutting board and put
your back into it!”
NEW YORKmeat the gang
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
COO K H O U SE18
“ There is too much of a
cut-off between butchering
and cooking”
“They’ve released
themselves from
sufficiently suffering with the
slaughtered”
Paul Gerard: ‘Cooking is a craft’
In New York, executive chef Paul
Gerard is passionate about butchery:
“In Soho House New York, we butcher, break down, snap bones, trim fat, dissect,
section, subdivide, slice, dice ‘n’ chop all primal cuts! Butchering on a grander
scale, especially here in The Meatpacking
District, is readily accessible, and the opportunity to learn the craft is at any
cook’s precariously-placed fingertips. I for one, at 16, had the luck of landing a
position with a local butcher and got to
learn the process of breaking down freshly-
slaughtered veal right smack dab in the
inner city. It’s a skill that is pertinent
to the process of cooking and absolutely
needs to be reflected upon with regards to
respecting meat as not only something that
comes wrapped in plastic and branded with
barcodes, but as a living and breathing creature. Whoever handles it subsequently
needs to make sure that the animal was not
slain in vain. When a cook goes through the
process of being elbow-deep for hours in
what looks like the set of a Dario Argento
film, sliding steel across steel, wielding
hooks, and hot-boning at the foot of meat
trees and gambrels, it’s an occasion for gratitude toward the livestock that will be
tonight’s special.
The cooks here save the trimmings for staff sandwiches and render the fat for
fried potatoes. We grasp the big picture from side of beef to steak, and value the
weight with much more reverence than a
tick on an invoice and the menu price of a
piece of meat on a plate. It’s so easy to get
lost in the process of serving one thousand
diners a day, and the tools of our trade
become so much mortar and bricks; but to
butcher, even from convenient cuts – like
racks of ribs and shells of sirloin – keeps
in mind that the task is only as noble as we
demand it remains.
There is
too much of a cut-off between butchering
and cooking. The frightening fact of kitchen life of late is that too many cooks can’t cut a deal, let alone veal. The
view imposed on them through chef-driven
fare is far from a philosophy of food; it
is an attitude toward art. They want to create cool coloured oils and swirl leggy
wines at crisp-clothed tables in clean chef coats because they’ve drifted from the
reptilian brain of cookery. They’ve cut themselves off from those who knew how to cook what they caught and killed with
their own hands. They’ve released themselves
from sufficiently suffering with the slaughtered, and creating a karmic flow
that all good butchers believe is their salvation, knowing that salivating alone is
not enough.
I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again
a thousand times before my time chained
to the range has been pardoned by the governors of grace…cooking is a craft. Skilled labour. It should be well-regarded
for its working-class ways. If you are not
skilled from soup to nuts, you may want to
roll up your sleeves, sharpen your blades,
bend down toward the cutting board and put
your back into it!”
NEW YORKmeat the gang
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
COO K H O U SE18
“ There is too much of a
cut-off between butchering
and cooking”
“They’ve released
themselves from
sufficiently suffering with the
slaughtered”
Paul Gerard: ‘Cooking is a craft’
At Babington, everyone gets involved
in preparing the week’s meat, explains
executive chef Ronnie Bonetti
“We train our guys to break down carcasses
from head to tail. In most restaurants meat come in with a sticker on it saying
“sirloin” or “rump” and chefs don’t know
where each cut comes from on the animal.
We’re losing that knowledge but it’s important to know what can be used for different styles of cooking – that you can’t braise or grill certain bits. A leg of
lamb is so much leaner than a shoulder for
example, and if you sit them next to each
other you can actually see why a shoulder
is better for a slow cook. Plus it’s just a
great sight at the beginning of the week,
seeing all these products come in, ready for
us to work with.
Each week we take a whole lamb and saw the legs down and break them into muscles
– rump, round and silverside – and we marinate it and then chargrill and serve
it with seasonal vegetables. My favourite
at the moment is broccoli with an anchovy
dressing. The middle we roast in the wood
oven and serve big chunks of it pink. We
do crispy lamb belly with carrots and artichokes and salsa verde and the shoulder
we turn into Lancashire hotpot or meatballs.
We get a half pig every week too – pigs are
pretty cool. We chop off the shoulder and
fore rib and keep it for Sunday roast or
to cook slowly in milk with lemon peel and
sage so it falls off the bone. We do pork
belly with crackling and lentils and the
legs we divide into muscles: we might do them Milanese style or marinated with lemon
and thyme and served with mustard and greens. We make pig’s head terrine and use
any leftovers for other terrines, too.
Sometimes we get a beef rump and loin which
is basically the ribs and back end. We get
rump steaks and a bit of fillet from that
for carpaccio or tartare and take the t-bone
of the loin to serve with chips and bearnaise.
A lot of the birds we get are pretty clean
already. We take legs from mallards to use for game sauce and roast the crowns and we get a bigger-than-average chicken,
around 2.2kg from Castlemead farm, a couple
of farms over from here. We serve it for
two, boned and flattened so it’s easier to carve and to share. They taste like chicken should taste and and because the
skin is more developed its goes crackly and
golden – after all, who doesn’t like crispy
chicken skin?”
Executive chef Stephen Tonkin makes
sure everyone at the Electric and
Dean Street Townhouse gets to learn
about butchering
“Recently we’ve had several suppliers come
in and give demos for the staff about preparing meat, game, oysters and fish, and
whenever we’ve got something new in the kitchen, we make sure we say to the staff,
“Come here and look at this”. Places which do
fewer covers than us can do more in-house
than we’re able to – you have to have a lot
of room in order to do a lot of butchering.
You have to ask, where can I store half a cow?
We get whole calves’ livers in and de-vent
(remove the veins) and peel them. Calves liver is famous for its waste, so you have
to know that you’re wasting the right bits.
There are holes in the liver where the veins run through – often if you think you’re eating bad liver it’s because they
haven’t been properly prepared. A liver can
be quite a sight – they’re about as long as
from your elbow to hand and weigh 5-6 kg.
It will still have blood in it, so you’re constantly mopping it and it can feel like
you don’t know where to start! Often people
use the back of a spoon to peel them – it’s
enormously satisfying if you can get it done in one piece, and a nightmare if it
breaks. The liver is prepared into neat slices for service and the trimmings are
used for parfaits or stuffings. We want to
maximise the product and minimise the waste.
Sometimes it’s about getting over the fear
of an ingredient, like a whole table of pigeons with their heads on, still looking
at you, or a rabbit coming in with fur on.
We don’t pull out feathers any more, but
we do things like removing wish bones and
wing knuckles from grouse, and we save the
hearts, livers and kidneys of game birds
for sauces, along with carcasses. These are
important, hand-me-down skills.”
babington house Dean Street Townhouse and The Electric
meat the gang
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
COO K H O U SE20
“Pigs are pretty cool”
“ These are
important, hand-
me-down skills”
Ronnie Bonetti
Stephen Tonkin
At Babington, everyone gets involved
in preparing the week’s meat, explains
executive chef Ronnie Bonetti
“We train our guys to break down carcasses
from head to tail. In most restaurants meat come in with a sticker on it saying
“sirloin” or “rump” and chefs don’t know
where each cut comes from on the animal.
We’re losing that knowledge but it’s important to know what can be used for different styles of cooking – that you can’t braise or grill certain bits. A leg of
lamb is so much leaner than a shoulder for
example, and if you sit them next to each
other you can actually see why a shoulder
is better for a slow cook. Plus it’s just a
great sight at the beginning of the week,
seeing all these products come in, ready for
us to work with.
Each week we take a whole lamb and saw the legs down and break them into muscles
– rump, round and silverside – and we marinate it and then chargrill and serve
it with seasonal vegetables. My favourite
at the moment is broccoli with an anchovy
dressing. The middle we roast in the wood
oven and serve big chunks of it pink. We
do crispy lamb belly with carrots and artichokes and salsa verde and the shoulder
we turn into Lancashire hotpot or meatballs.
We get a half pig every week too – pigs are
pretty cool. We chop off the shoulder and
fore rib and keep it for Sunday roast or
to cook slowly in milk with lemon peel and
sage so it falls off the bone. We do pork
belly with crackling and lentils and the
legs we divide into muscles: we might do them Milanese style or marinated with lemon
and thyme and served with mustard and greens. We make pig’s head terrine and use
any leftovers for other terrines, too.
Sometimes we get a beef rump and loin which
is basically the ribs and back end. We get
rump steaks and a bit of fillet from that
for carpaccio or tartare and take the t-bone
of the loin to serve with chips and bearnaise.
A lot of the birds we get are pretty clean
already. We take legs from mallards to use for game sauce and roast the crowns and we get a bigger-than-average chicken,
around 2.2kg from Castlemead farm, a couple
of farms over from here. We serve it for
two, boned and flattened so it’s easier to carve and to share. They taste like chicken should taste and and because the
skin is more developed its goes crackly and
golden – after all, who doesn’t like crispy
chicken skin?”
Executive chef Stephen Tonkin makes
sure everyone at the Electric and
Dean Street Townhouse gets to learn
about butchering
“Recently we’ve had several suppliers come
in and give demos for the staff about preparing meat, game, oysters and fish, and
whenever we’ve got something new in the kitchen, we make sure we say to the staff,
“Come here and look at this”. Places which do
fewer covers than us can do more in-house
than we’re able to – you have to have a lot
of room in order to do a lot of butchering.
You have to ask, where can I store half a cow?
We get whole calves’ livers in and de-vent
(remove the veins) and peel them. Calves liver is famous for its waste, so you have
to know that you’re wasting the right bits.
There are holes in the liver where the veins run through – often if you think you’re eating bad liver it’s because they
haven’t been properly prepared. A liver can
be quite a sight – they’re about as long as
from your elbow to hand and weigh 5-6 kg.
It will still have blood in it, so you’re constantly mopping it and it can feel like
you don’t know where to start! Often people
use the back of a spoon to peel them – it’s
enormously satisfying if you can get it done in one piece, and a nightmare if it
breaks. The liver is prepared into neat slices for service and the trimmings are
used for parfaits or stuffings. We want to
maximise the product and minimise the waste.
Sometimes it’s about getting over the fear
of an ingredient, like a whole table of pigeons with their heads on, still looking
at you, or a rabbit coming in with fur on.
We don’t pull out feathers any more, but
we do things like removing wish bones and
wing knuckles from grouse, and we save the
hearts, livers and kidneys of game birds
for sauces, along with carcasses. These are
important, hand-me-down skills.”
babington house Dean Street Townhouse and The Electric
meat the gang
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
COO K H O U SE20
“Pigs are pretty cool”
“ These are
important, hand-
me-down skills”
Ronnie Bonetti
Stephen Tonkin
Le Fooding is a French culinary collective that is all about
promoting unpretentious food rather than high gastronomy. Its
team write guidebooks and organise small-scale and unusual food
festivals. The latest was Le Fooding Milano, which brought together
top chefs from all over the world who cook Italian-inspired food,
including Jon Pollard and his crew from Pizza East Shoreditch. For
three nights, dinner guests were fed meals that played around with
the idea of Italian food – from citrus spaghetti to pine-smoked
baccala – in a gallery space deep inside an industrial estate on
the edge of Milan. Matthew Luscombe went along to help:
“I flew to Milan with Jon and Davide, one of the Pizza East floor managers.
Le Fooding promotes good, accessible food and the event featured different
chefs cooking Italian food every night. However, we were there all weekend
because guests got a slice of our veal meatball pizza when they arrived (the
organisers had sorted us out with a good-sized wood-burning oven). They
were served on little boards with a hole to rest your glass of champagne in,
which you don’t get every day with pizza, especially not in a warehouse on
an industrial estate. We were working next to a team from Pizzaiolo in San
Francisco – they make a pizza with marinated squid on it, which works because
they cook the pizzas relatively slowly. It was good to see people doing our
jobs from the other side of the world and interesting to see how they did it.
We were all there because we do pizzas and because they’re not necessarily
what you’d call traditional.
Simply le best
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
COO K H O U SE23
COO K H O U SE22
to find out more about how you could become part of the Soho House Group team contact [email protected]
SOUND
GOOD?
“ We were all there
because we do pizzas
and because they’re not
necessarily what you’d
call traditional”
Chef Jon Pollard (centre) and team
Le Fooding
Every night a different menu was served by different chefs, like Moreno Cedroni from Madoninna del Pescatore in the Marche, who served crazy squid and berry hotdogs. Mario Carbone from Torrisi Italian Specialties in New York cooked up fresh corn polenta. Other chefs included Cristiano Tomei from L’Imbuto in Viareggio, Giovanni Passerini from Bistrot Rino in Paris, Christian Puglisi from Relae in Copenaghen and Pier Paolo Picchi from Sao Paolo.
The main dining room was completely dark at the beginning of the evening and the waiters had to wear head torches. It was very dramatic as it gradually got lighter over time. It was set up with banqueting tables so everyone ate together.
Some guests came on all three days. It was a very foodie crowd and quite a few of them knew about Pizza East, had visited or said they were going to. They were people from France and the UK as well as Italians too. Everyone who had come to eat was really enthusiastic. They were out to experience something special.”
Jon Pollard says: “Le Fooding is made up of really good people with an interesting perspective on food. A lot of thought went into the experience that they were giving people each night - guests’ first couple of hours were spent on what felt like a film set of an Italian street. Then during the part of dinner held in darkness, there were people dressed in animal suits scaring the guests - which of course everyone loved. All the chefs were given free reign to serve whatever they wanted and it didn’t feel all at all corporate.”
Le Fooding is a French culinary collective that is all about
promoting unpretentious food rather than high gastronomy. Its
team write guidebooks and organise small-scale and unusual food
festivals. The latest was Le Fooding Milano, which brought together
top chefs from all over the world who cook Italian-inspired food,
including Jon Pollard and his crew from Pizza East Shoreditch. For
three nights, dinner guests were fed meals that played around with
the idea of Italian food – from citrus spaghetti to pine-smoked
baccala – in a gallery space deep inside an industrial estate on
the edge of Milan. Matthew Luscombe went along to help:
“I flew to Milan with Jon and Davide, one of the Pizza East floor managers.
Le Fooding promotes good, accessible food and the event featured different
chefs cooking Italian food every night. However, we were there all weekend
because guests got a slice of our veal meatball pizza when they arrived (the
organisers had sorted us out with a good-sized wood-burning oven). They
were served on little boards with a hole to rest your glass of champagne in,
which you don’t get every day with pizza, especially not in a warehouse on
an industrial estate. We were working next to a team from Pizzaiolo in San
Francisco – they make a pizza with marinated squid on it, which works because
they cook the pizzas relatively slowly. It was good to see people doing our
jobs from the other side of the world and interesting to see how they did it.
We were all there because we do pizzas and because they’re not necessarily
what you’d call traditional.
Simply le best
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
COO K H O U SE23
COO K H O U SE22
to find out more about how you could become part of the Soho House Group team contact [email protected]
SOUND
GOOD?
“ We were all there
because we do pizzas
and because they’re not
necessarily what you’d
call traditional”
Chef Jon Pollard (centre) and team
Le Fooding
Every night a different menu was served by different chefs, like Moreno Cedroni from Madoninna del Pescatore in the Marche, who served crazy squid and berry hotdogs. Mario Carbone from Torrisi Italian Specialties in New York cooked up fresh corn polenta. Other chefs included Cristiano Tomei from L’Imbuto in Viareggio, Giovanni Passerini from Bistrot Rino in Paris, Christian Puglisi from Relae in Copenaghen and Pier Paolo Picchi from Sao Paolo.
The main dining room was completely dark at the beginning of the evening and the waiters had to wear head torches. It was very dramatic as it gradually got lighter over time. It was set up with banqueting tables so everyone ate together.
Some guests came on all three days. It was a very foodie crowd and quite a few of them knew about Pizza East, had visited or said they were going to. They were people from France and the UK as well as Italians too. Everyone who had come to eat was really enthusiastic. They were out to experience something special.”
Jon Pollard says: “Le Fooding is made up of really good people with an interesting perspective on food. A lot of thought went into the experience that they were giving people each night - guests’ first couple of hours were spent on what felt like a film set of an Italian street. Then during the part of dinner held in darkness, there were people dressed in animal suits scaring the guests - which of course everyone loved. All the chefs were given free reign to serve whatever they wanted and it didn’t feel all at all corporate.”
In New York, executive chef Paul Gerard plus
crew members Markus Pieterse and Jeffrey Mineses
recently took part in the Spartan Race, as team Fire and Knives. This crazy
assault and obstacle course is eight miles long and takes an average of two and a
half hours to complete. It involves everything from jumping over fire to crawling
and climbing through mud. “You know what, I was no worse for wear ‘n’ tear and I’m
twice the age (almost) of the other guys!” says Paul. “We did it in under two hours,
which is better than average and not too shabby. At one point I fell into a mud hole
and was completely submerged, which the guys got a kick out of. My trainer broke
his toe half way through and completed the race at pace (seven-minute miles) with me
– a Brooklyn-born 42 year old – and Markus, a veritable super-youth raised in, uh,
helllooo AFRICA! I should get points just for signing up with that kid! Jeffrey was
wounded two thirds of the through but pushed on running straight-legged through
the jungles of Staten island like his leg was in a splint. He fulfilled his Spartan
duties despite the pain as the sting of our tongues would’ve been far worse than the
hamstring that held him back!”
Following on from the last issue’s discoveries of what Soho House chefs get up to in their spare time, we’ve learned even more – from sculpting to
hard-core assault courses. Phew!
Maykel Sanchez, a chef at Miami Beach House, is a self-taught
sculptor who sells his pieces. When he’s not working in the
kitchen he can be found chiselling away at huge pieces of
rock, stone and wood. “I’m inspired by love, and by art. Every
day, I’m looking for ideas from the things that I see and that
happen to me, wherever I go. How long each piece takes depends
on the size and complexity of what I’m trying to do, so each
one varies.”
Meanwhile, over in London, Dean Street Townhouse
junior sous chef Phil Clark trained hard to take part
in the Survival of the Fittest London Challenge. “It
was 10km, with 10 obstacles and 7,000 people competed in
waves. I trained for months, after shifts or between
shifts. I’m fitter than I’ve been for years! I had to
run at least 10km three times a week and I did lots
of weights – basically body-building. I was really
pleased because I was aiming to finish in 1 hour 20 minutes,
but I did it in 50 minutes, including an assault course through
mud, carrying 20kg bags of cement, climbing walls and ropes,
crawling through gravel-filled tunnels. I think I’ve torn my achilles and I’ve
definitely got a few battle wounds, but I’m already trying to sort out doing
another one!”
Fire & knives
out of the kitchen Doing chisel
Fitty City
playing hard
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COO K H O U SE25
COO K H O U SE24
Are you a Soho House Group chef with a wild and wonderful hobby? Would you like to be in the magazine? If so, email cookhouse@ sohohouse.com
“ I fell into a mud hole and was
completely submerged, which
the guys got a kick out of”
“ I’m inspired by love”
“I’ve definitely got a few
battle wounds”
wotzyrgame?
Paul Gerard, Jeffrey Mineses and
Markus Pieterse
Phil Clark: Darwin’s choice
In New York, executive chef Paul Gerard plus
crew members Markus Pieterse and Jeffrey Mineses
recently took part in the Spartan Race, as team Fire and Knives. This crazy
assault and obstacle course is eight miles long and takes an average of two and a
half hours to complete. It involves everything from jumping over fire to crawling
and climbing through mud. “You know what, I was no worse for wear ‘n’ tear and I’m
twice the age (almost) of the other guys!” says Paul. “We did it in under two hours,
which is better than average and not too shabby. At one point I fell into a mud hole
and was completely submerged, which the guys got a kick out of. My trainer broke
his toe half way through and completed the race at pace (seven-minute miles) with me
– a Brooklyn-born 42 year old – and Markus, a veritable super-youth raised in, uh,
helllooo AFRICA! I should get points just for signing up with that kid! Jeffrey was
wounded two thirds of the through but pushed on running straight-legged through
the jungles of Staten island like his leg was in a splint. He fulfilled his Spartan
duties despite the pain as the sting of our tongues would’ve been far worse than the
hamstring that held him back!”
Following on from the last issue’s discoveries of what Soho House chefs get up to in their spare time, we’ve learned even more – from sculpting to
hard-core assault courses. Phew!
Maykel Sanchez, a chef at Miami Beach House, is a self-taught
sculptor who sells his pieces. When he’s not working in the
kitchen he can be found chiselling away at huge pieces of
rock, stone and wood. “I’m inspired by love, and by art. Every
day, I’m looking for ideas from the things that I see and that
happen to me, wherever I go. How long each piece takes depends
on the size and complexity of what I’m trying to do, so each
one varies.”
Meanwhile, over in London, Dean Street Townhouse
junior sous chef Phil Clark trained hard to take part
in the Survival of the Fittest London Challenge. “It
was 10km, with 10 obstacles and 7,000 people competed in
waves. I trained for months, after shifts or between
shifts. I’m fitter than I’ve been for years! I had to
run at least 10km three times a week and I did lots
of weights – basically body-building. I was really
pleased because I was aiming to finish in 1 hour 20 minutes,
but I did it in 50 minutes, including an assault course through
mud, carrying 20kg bags of cement, climbing walls and ropes,
crawling through gravel-filled tunnels. I think I’ve torn my achilles and I’ve
definitely got a few battle wounds, but I’m already trying to sort out doing
another one!”
Fire & knives
out of the kitchen Doing chisel
Fitty City
playing hard
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Are you a Soho House Group chef with a wild and wonderful hobby? Would you like to be in the magazine? If so, email cookhouse@ sohohouse.com
“ I fell into a mud hole and was
completely submerged, which
the guys got a kick out of”
“ I’m inspired by love”
“I’ve definitely got a few
battle wounds”
wotzyrgame?
Paul Gerard, Jeffrey Mineses and
Markus Pieterse
Phil Clark: Darwin’s choice
Joe was particularly interested in how Matt made his custard. “I always have problems with custard! It’s so easy for it to catch or to go like scrambled eggs.” Matt talked him through his technique: “I’m using double cream here as we want it to be really thick – normally you’d use milk and cream. Bring it to the boil and get it as hot as possible without boiling over. Then, when you’ve got everything back in the pan, whisk until it thickens and as soon as it does, take it off the heat and whisk for 30-40 seconds so that it loses some of its residual heat and doesn’t keep cooking.” This was a eureka moment for Joe. “That’s where I always go wrong!” The mulled wine jelly was a great success – and Joe learned another top tip. “Soak the gelatine in iced water rather than warm water, before adding it to the wine. Otherwise it will start to disintegrate.”
Joe’s cocktail, La Poire, Le Noir (recipe, right), was a great match for the finished trifle. He used Grey Goose La Poire, which is made with French William pears, and shook it up with pear liqueur and a home-made pear and red-wine reduction, which contained a touch of mace. Double strained and served with a mulled brandied cherry in a Martini glass, it was a delicious end to the afternoon.
Joe and Matt decided to brave the winter weather (a little snifter of vodka
is always useful on these occasions) and take their kitchen al fresco on the
roof of Shoreditch House. As the sun set over the City skyline, Matt rustled
up a delicious pear and mulled jelly trifle – check out the recipe overleaf.
“You don’t want the pears to be too ripe,” explained Matt. “Otherwise they’ll
lose their shape and overcook really easily.” He also minimised waste by
using the 50/50 sugar and water syrup that he’d poached the pears in to soak
the sponge for the trifle. “Then you get even more of the flavour of the
pears into the dish,” he said.
As part of Cookhouse’s ongoing partnership with Grey Goose
Vodka, this issue saw mixologist Joe McCanta and Soho House
Group executive pastry chef Matt Hayes take to the rooftops
of London. Why? So that they could devise a seasonal pudding
and seasonal cocktail to match!
Go to www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse to see our exclusive video
of how they got on.
Up on the roof
goose-y gander
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“ Joe was particularly
interested in how
Matt made his
custard”
Joe McCanta and Matt Hayes on the roof at Shoreditch House
La Poire, Le Noir50 mls / 1½ oz Grey
Goose La Poire Vodka
10 mls / 1/3 oz Rothman &
Winter pear liqueur
20 mls / ¾ oz pear red
wine reduction
20 mls / ¾ oz fresh
lemon juice
1 tsp clove powder
nutmeg and mace
For the red wine reduction: in a saucepan combine 1 part pear juice, 1 part sugar and ½ part house red wine (Merlot). Cook down for 15 minutes and transfer to a bottle to cool. Add 1 sprinkle of dried, powdered mace.
For the cocktail: shake ingredients and double strain into a Martini glass. Top with a sprinkle of mace and freshly grated nutmeg and cloves.
Mulled wine trifle
Joe was particularly interested in how Matt made his custard. “I always have problems with custard! It’s so easy for it to catch or to go like scrambled eggs.” Matt talked him through his technique: “I’m using double cream here as we want it to be really thick – normally you’d use milk and cream. Bring it to the boil and get it as hot as possible without boiling over. Then, when you’ve got everything back in the pan, whisk until it thickens and as soon as it does, take it off the heat and whisk for 30-40 seconds so that it loses some of its residual heat and doesn’t keep cooking.” This was a eureka moment for Joe. “That’s where I always go wrong!” The mulled wine jelly was a great success – and Joe learned another top tip. “Soak the gelatine in iced water rather than warm water, before adding it to the wine. Otherwise it will start to disintegrate.”
Joe’s cocktail, La Poire, Le Noir (recipe, right), was a great match for the finished trifle. He used Grey Goose La Poire, which is made with French William pears, and shook it up with pear liqueur and a home-made pear and red-wine reduction, which contained a touch of mace. Double strained and served with a mulled brandied cherry in a Martini glass, it was a delicious end to the afternoon.
Joe and Matt decided to brave the winter weather (a little snifter of vodka
is always useful on these occasions) and take their kitchen al fresco on the
roof of Shoreditch House. As the sun set over the City skyline, Matt rustled
up a delicious pear and mulled jelly trifle – check out the recipe overleaf.
“You don’t want the pears to be too ripe,” explained Matt. “Otherwise they’ll
lose their shape and overcook really easily.” He also minimised waste by
using the 50/50 sugar and water syrup that he’d poached the pears in to soak
the sponge for the trifle. “Then you get even more of the flavour of the
pears into the dish,” he said.
As part of Cookhouse’s ongoing partnership with Grey Goose
Vodka, this issue saw mixologist Joe McCanta and Soho House
Group executive pastry chef Matt Hayes take to the rooftops
of London. Why? So that they could devise a seasonal pudding
and seasonal cocktail to match!
Go to www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse to see our exclusive video
of how they got on.
Up on the roof
goose-y gander
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
COO K H O U SE27
COO K H O U SE26
“ Joe was particularly
interested in how
Matt made his
custard”
Joe McCanta and Matt Hayes on the roof at Shoreditch House
La Poire, Le Noir50 mls / 1½ oz Grey
Goose La Poire Vodka
10 mls / 1/3 oz Rothman &
Winter pear liqueur
20 mls / ¾ oz pear red
wine reduction
20 mls / ¾ oz fresh
lemon juice
1 tsp clove powder
nutmeg and mace
For the red wine reduction: in a saucepan combine 1 part pear juice, 1 part sugar and ½ part house red wine (Merlot). Cook down for 15 minutes and transfer to a bottle to cool. Add 1 sprinkle of dried, powdered mace.
For the cocktail: shake ingredients and double strain into a Martini glass. Top with a sprinkle of mace and freshly grated nutmeg and cloves.
Mulled wine trifle
serves 6For the mulled wine jelly:375ml / 12 oz red wine1 star anise1 stick cinnamon, brokenzest of 1 orange 100g / ½ cup caster sugar, or to taste3 leaves of gelatine
In a pan gently warm the wine, spices, zest and sugar for 20 mins. Do not bring to the boil. Leave to infuse for 3-4 hours. When the wine has infused, heat it back up and soak the gelatine leaf in ice water until soft. Mix the two together.
For the sponge: 3 eggs70g / 1/3 cup sugar60g / ½ cup flour30g / ¼ cup cornflour
Whisk the eggs and sugar until light and airy. Gently
fold in the flour and cornflour taking care not to knock the air out. Pour the mix into a loaf tin and bake at 170°C / 340°F for 15 – 20 mins or until cooked. The sponge should be golden and springy.
For the trifle custard:250 ml / 1 cup double (heavy) cream100g / ½ cup egg yolk50g / ¼ cup sugar7g / 1 tbsp cornflour
Bring the cream to the boil. Mix the sugar with the cornflour then add to the egg yolk. Pour half the cream onto the yolks and whisk well. Return to the pan and on a low heat whisk continually until the custard thickens. This stage requires the most care, as if you cook it for too long it will split. When it’s thickened pour in to
a bowl and whisk for 30 – 40 seconds to remove the residual heat. Leave to cool.
For the poached pears: 2 pears (firm not ripe)500ml /2 cups water250g / 2 ½ cups sugar
Peel and slice the pears in half and gently simmer in the sugar and water until soft. This should take 15 – 20 mins. To assemble the trifles slice the pears (each half into 6 pieces) and put 4 in each glass. Cut the sponge in to centimetre dice, soak with the pear poaching liquor and put 3 – 4 pieces in each glass. Spoon in the warm jelly to fill halfway and put in the fridge to set for 2-3 hours. Spoon over the custard then return to the fridge to set. Finally top with whipped cream and toasted almonds.
serves 6For the sticky toffee pudding:60g / ½ stick butter170g / 1 ¼ cups dark brown sugar170g / 6 oz chopped dates170g / 1 ¼ cups self raising flour2 eggs150ml / ¾ cup water5g / 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
for the sticky toffee sauce500ml / 2 cups double cream
20g / 1 oz black treacle20g / 1 oz dark brown sugar15g / 1½ tbsp demerara sugar7g / 1 tbsp caster sugar
Boil the chopped dates, water and bicarbonate of soda until dates have softened and leave to cool. Cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time and mix until smooth. Add flour then the cold date-and-water mix. Pour the mixture into a large loaf tin (26cm x 10cm/ 10’ x 4’) and bake at 170°C/340°F for 40 mins.
To check the cake is cooked insert a small knife into the centre – when it’s ready the knife will come out clean. To make the sauce put all the ingredients into a pan and bring to the boil. Slice the loaf into 6 slices and place flat in an oven dish. Pour half the sauce over. Cover with foil and put back into the oven for 10 mins. As the sauce begins to boil the cake will soak it up and become moist. To finish, put the warm cake in bowls, pour over the remaining sauce and serve with a scoop of clotted cream
serves 6For the apple compote:500g / 1 lb Bramley apples500g / 1 lb Granny Smith apples20g / 1 oz butter5g / 1 tsp cinnamon 100g / ½ cup sugarfor the crumble topping:200g / 1 cup demerara sugar200g / 1 cup butter
280g / 2 1/3 cups flour
Peel, halve and core the apples, then cut into 1cm chunks. In a pan melt the butter then add the chopped apple. As the apple starts to break down add the sugar and cinnamon.
To make to crumble topping
place all the ingredients in a bowl and rub in with your fingertips to give a breadcrumb-like consistency. Put the apple compote in an ovenproof dish and cover with the crumble topping. Bake at 180°C / 360°C for 30 – 40 minutes or until golden. Serve the crumble with thick cream or custard.
serves 4
¾ cup / 150g granulated sugar1 ¾ cup / 415 ml heavy cream¾ cup / 180 ml milk7 large egg yolks7oz / 200g 72% good quality chocolate, chopped¼ tsp vanilla extract½ tsp ground cinnamon½ tsp ground all spice¼ tsp ground nutmeg½ tsp ground ginger1/8 tsp pinch of salt
In a medium-sized bowl whisk together the egg yolks and
half of the sugar until well combined. Keep on the side. In a medium-sized saucepan, bring to a boil the milk, cream, spices, salt and the rest of the sugar. Carefully pour a third of the hot mixture into the yolk mixture and whisk until well combined. Pour the hot yolk mixture back in with the hot milk mixture and cook on medium heat, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula. Cook the custard until the liquid coats the back of a spoon or until it reaches 170°F / 76°C on a candy (jam) thermometer.
Turn the heat off and pour a third of the custard into the chocolate and whisk until all chocolate is melted. Pour in the rest of the custard and whisk until completely combined and the mixture is smooth and shiny.
Strain the mixture through a fine mesh strainer. Pour mixture into ramekins, set in refrigerator for at least 6 hours or overnight to set. Served with a dollop of slightly sweetened cream. If you’d like, this pudding can also be accompanied with ginger snaps.
These puddings by Soho House Group executive pastry chef Matt Hayes would all make a
great alternative to the traditional Christmas or figgy
pudding, but are also perfect throughout
winter whenever you’re in need of a
cheering sweet treat.
And finally...a stateside dessert Dolores Munoz is pastry chef at Soho West Hollywood and this is one of her favourites for this time of year.
Seasonal sweets
Pear and mulled wine jelly trifle
Sticky toffee pudding with clotted cream
Cinnamon and apple crumble
Spiced chocolate cream
winter puddings
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serves 6For the mulled wine jelly:375ml / 12 oz red wine1 star anise1 stick cinnamon, brokenzest of 1 orange 100g / ½ cup caster sugar, or to taste3 leaves of gelatine
In a pan gently warm the wine, spices, zest and sugar for 20 mins. Do not bring to the boil. Leave to infuse for 3-4 hours. When the wine has infused, heat it back up and soak the gelatine leaf in ice water until soft. Mix the two together.
For the sponge: 3 eggs70g / 1/3 cup sugar60g / ½ cup flour30g / ¼ cup cornflour
Whisk the eggs and sugar until light and airy. Gently
fold in the flour and cornflour taking care not to knock the air out. Pour the mix into a loaf tin and bake at 170°C / 340°F for 15 – 20 mins or until cooked. The sponge should be golden and springy.
For the trifle custard:250 ml / 1 cup double (heavy) cream100g / ½ cup egg yolk50g / ¼ cup sugar7g / 1 tbsp cornflour
Bring the cream to the boil. Mix the sugar with the cornflour then add to the egg yolk. Pour half the cream onto the yolks and whisk well. Return to the pan and on a low heat whisk continually until the custard thickens. This stage requires the most care, as if you cook it for too long it will split. When it’s thickened pour in to
a bowl and whisk for 30 – 40 seconds to remove the residual heat. Leave to cool.
For the poached pears: 2 pears (firm not ripe)500ml /2 cups water250g / 2 ½ cups sugar
Peel and slice the pears in half and gently simmer in the sugar and water until soft. This should take 15 – 20 mins. To assemble the trifles slice the pears (each half into 6 pieces) and put 4 in each glass. Cut the sponge in to centimetre dice, soak with the pear poaching liquor and put 3 – 4 pieces in each glass. Spoon in the warm jelly to fill halfway and put in the fridge to set for 2-3 hours. Spoon over the custard then return to the fridge to set. Finally top with whipped cream and toasted almonds.
serves 6For the sticky toffee pudding:60g / ½ stick butter170g / 1 ¼ cups dark brown sugar170g / 6 oz chopped dates170g / 1 ¼ cups self raising flour2 eggs150ml / ¾ cup water5g / 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
for the sticky toffee sauce500ml / 2 cups double cream
20g / 1 oz black treacle20g / 1 oz dark brown sugar15g / 1½ tbsp demerara sugar7g / 1 tbsp caster sugar
Boil the chopped dates, water and bicarbonate of soda until dates have softened and leave to cool. Cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time and mix until smooth. Add flour then the cold date-and-water mix. Pour the mixture into a large loaf tin (26cm x 10cm/ 10’ x 4’) and bake at 170°C/340°F for 40 mins.
To check the cake is cooked insert a small knife into the centre – when it’s ready the knife will come out clean. To make the sauce put all the ingredients into a pan and bring to the boil. Slice the loaf into 6 slices and place flat in an oven dish. Pour half the sauce over. Cover with foil and put back into the oven for 10 mins. As the sauce begins to boil the cake will soak it up and become moist. To finish, put the warm cake in bowls, pour over the remaining sauce and serve with a scoop of clotted cream
serves 6For the apple compote:500g / 1 lb Bramley apples500g / 1 lb Granny Smith apples20g / 1 oz butter5g / 1 tsp cinnamon 100g / ½ cup sugarfor the crumble topping:200g / 1 cup demerara sugar200g / 1 cup butter
280g / 2 1/3 cups flour
Peel, halve and core the apples, then cut into 1cm chunks. In a pan melt the butter then add the chopped apple. As the apple starts to break down add the sugar and cinnamon.
To make to crumble topping
place all the ingredients in a bowl and rub in with your fingertips to give a breadcrumb-like consistency. Put the apple compote in an ovenproof dish and cover with the crumble topping. Bake at 180°C / 360°C for 30 – 40 minutes or until golden. Serve the crumble with thick cream or custard.
serves 4
¾ cup / 150g granulated sugar1 ¾ cup / 415 ml heavy cream¾ cup / 180 ml milk7 large egg yolks7oz / 200g 72% good quality chocolate, chopped¼ tsp vanilla extract½ tsp ground cinnamon½ tsp ground all spice¼ tsp ground nutmeg½ tsp ground ginger1/8 tsp pinch of salt
In a medium-sized bowl whisk together the egg yolks and
half of the sugar until well combined. Keep on the side. In a medium-sized saucepan, bring to a boil the milk, cream, spices, salt and the rest of the sugar. Carefully pour a third of the hot mixture into the yolk mixture and whisk until well combined. Pour the hot yolk mixture back in with the hot milk mixture and cook on medium heat, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula. Cook the custard until the liquid coats the back of a spoon or until it reaches 170°F / 76°C on a candy (jam) thermometer.
Turn the heat off and pour a third of the custard into the chocolate and whisk until all chocolate is melted. Pour in the rest of the custard and whisk until completely combined and the mixture is smooth and shiny.
Strain the mixture through a fine mesh strainer. Pour mixture into ramekins, set in refrigerator for at least 6 hours or overnight to set. Served with a dollop of slightly sweetened cream. If you’d like, this pudding can also be accompanied with ginger snaps.
These puddings by Soho House Group executive pastry chef Matt Hayes would all make a
great alternative to the traditional Christmas or figgy
pudding, but are also perfect throughout
winter whenever you’re in need of a
cheering sweet treat.
And finally...a stateside dessert Dolores Munoz is pastry chef at Soho West Hollywood and this is one of her favourites for this time of year.
Seasonal sweets
Pear and mulled wine jelly trifle
Sticky toffee pudding with clotted cream
Cinnamon and apple crumble
Spiced chocolate cream
winter puddings
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COO K H O U SE29
COO K H O U SE28
members’ recipe
MAKES 128oz / 225g / 1½ cups all-purpose or plain flour
6oz / 175g / 1 cup + 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa
powder
½ teaspoon kosher salt
12oz / 340g / 2 cups bittersweet chocolate, chopped
6oz / 175g / 1 cup white chocolate, chopped
6oz / 175g / ¾ cup unsalted
butter, cut into cubes
6 large eggs, at room temperature
12oz / 340g / 1½ cups granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
16 fl oz / 460ml / 2 cups Guinness stout, at room temperature
9oz / 250g / 1½ cups semi-sweet chocolate chips
This indulgent recipe for Guinness brownies is from members
David Lesniak and David Muniz, life partners and business
partners behind the fabulous Outsider Tart bakery in Chiswick,
west London. It features in their brand new book Baked in America
“Some time during a research frenzy this recipe turned up. Neither
of us drink much and we certainly don’t drink stout. But given
where we live in London, we either pass by or smell two breweries
in full gear every day. We also have a penchant for New York
tabloid gossip, where a certain heiress appears regularly. So these
seemed a no-brainer to include. The Guinness lends a deep and
mysterious spicy flavour, not to mention a unique velvety texture.”
GOOD FOR YOU...
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IF YOU’D LIKE TO SEE YOUR RECIPE HERE,
PLEASE EMAIL IT TO
Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/gas mark 5. Butter a pan, 12 x 9 x 2in/30 x 23 x 5cm, and line the bottom and 2 sides with parchment paper.
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa and salt and set aside. In a heatproof bowl set over simmering water (also known as a double boiler), melt the dark chocolate, white chocolate and the butter. Set aside to cool slightly.
Put the eggs and sugar into the bowl of an elec-tric mixer and beat on high speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. The mixture will become smooth and creamy with a pale yellow colour. This is also called the ‘ribbon’ stage, because when the beater is removed from the bowl the mixture will slowly ooze in wide bands back into the bowl as opposed to dripping in droplets. Next add the cooled chocolate mixture and continue beating on
medium speed until thoroughly combined. Scrape the bottom of the bowl to make sure all the egg is incorporated into the chocolate. There should be no yellowish streaks in the batter at this point. Reduce the speed to low, stir in the vanilla then gradually add the flour mixture, stirring only until the white disappears. With the mixer still on low, slowly pour in the Guinness and continue stirring until the batter is even, with no traces of Guinness whirling about in the bowl. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and sprinkle the chocolate chips evenly over the top.
Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until a small knife emerges clean from the centre. These have a tendency to pull away from the sides of the pan, so don’t be alarmed. They may also shrink a bit further while cooling. Cool completely in the pan before cutting them into 3in/8cm squares.
SOHO HOUSE GROUP IS RECRUITING WORLDWIDE. WE ARE LOOKING FOR THE MOST PASSIONATE AND
DEDICATED CHEFS FROM AROUND THE WORLD. IF YOU WANT TO WORK FOR A COMPANY THAT’S FULL OF
OPPORTUNITIES AND IS EXPANDING INTERNATIONALLY, PLEASE GET IN TOUCH. IF YOU’RE THE RIGHT
CHEF FOR US WE’LL HELP YOU DEVELOP YOUR CAREER AND HAVE A GREAT TIME ALONG THE WAY.
EMAIL [email protected]
FIND OUT MORE AT WWW.SOHOHOUSE.COM/COOKHOUSE
know your onions?