consumer helath label_oko-tex for textile products

8/8/2019 Consumer Helath Label_Oko-Tex for Textile Products

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Consumer health label: Öko-Tex for textile products

In brief

Öko-Tex is a consumer health label which ensures that textiles do not containsubstances harmful to human health and the environment. The Öko-Tex

organisation has developed three certification schemes for textile products: Öko-Tex 100, Öko-Tex 1000 and Öko-Tex 100plus. The most important distinctionbetween the first two schemes is that Öko-Tex 100 only sets limits for the finalproduct whereas Öko-Tex 1000 sets requirements for the whole productionprocess. The Öko-Tex 100plus certificate indicates that a company and itsproducts are certified according to both Öko-Tex standards as well as meetadditional criteria, which are mostly focused on the environment.

In this document the Öko-Tex 100 label is discussed, followed by a step-by-stepdescription of the certification process. Subsequently, the Öko-Tex 1000 isdiscussed and the requirements which have been set for this label.

Market impact

In 1992, a consortium of testing institutes from Germany, Austria and Switzerland establishedcriteria for a textile label in order to ensure that textiles do not contain substances harmful tohuman health and the environment. This label, Öko-Tex Standard 100, has become the mostwell-known and widely used standard for textiles worldwide. Currently, more than 7,500 textileand clothing manufacturers in 80 countries have been certified according to the Öko-Tex 100standard.

The increasing interest for the Öko-Tex label in Europe is related to the enhanced interest of consumers for product safety and the environment. In addition, the stringent standards of thelabel assure importers that products meet EU regulations, thus excluding legal risks. Due tothe growing importance of the Öko-Tex labels, suppliers from developing countries, of bothfinished and semi-manufactured products, are increasingly required to meet these standards inorder to successfully export to European countries. The amount of applications from companiesin developing countries has therefore grown considerably in the last couple of years.

Want to know more about the market impact in your sector? Check out the websites of large companies in your sector and see what they do. The websiteof the Öko-Tex association in the external link section enables you to search for brand nameproducts under the topic ‘shopping’ in the upper header of the page. Links are also providedto the concerned companies. If you can’t think of companies in your sector, check out relevantbuyer requirements and market surveys in this database!

Content

Öko-Tex 100The Öko-Tex label can be issued to a wide variety of textile products: finished products, suchas garments and curtains, as well as semi-manufactured products, such as fabrics andaccessories. The products for which the certificate can be issued are divided into fourcategories and limit values of hazardous substances are laid down for each product class:I. Baby articlesII. Articles in direct contact with skinIII. Articles with no direct skin contactIV. Decoration material

Labelling scheme

Certification instituteCertification is done by testing institutes that are member of the Öko-Tex consortium.Currently, around 43 testing institutes worldwide are member of the consortium.




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Criteria and testing

Harmful substances within the context of the Öko-Tex 100 standard refer either to thoseexceeding a specific amount in a textile product or evolving in a specific amount during normaluse. The criteria set in the standard are more stringent than the European product legislation.This means that a product which has passed the Öko-Tex test does not contain any substancethat is banned by European legislation. For this reason, an increasing amount of importers

demand an Öko-Tex certificate in order to prevent legal risks.

Certification for the Öko-Tex 100 label

Step 1: Selection of the products you would like to certify

The first step to obtain the Öko-Tex 100 certificate is determining which products you wouldlike to certify. Please note that it is possible to obtain an Öko-Tex 100 certificate for productsin all stages of the production process of textile products, from yarn to the clothing articleitself:

• yarn / sewing thread • buttons / accessories• fabric • lining• clothing • care labels

When determining which products you would like to certify, it is important to keep in mind thatit is possible that your certificate covers several articles. In Öko-Tex 100 this is called an

‘article group’. These could be:

• Textiles with physical differences only, made from well-defined basic materials.• Articles which are physically composed of certified products only.• Finished textiles from the same kind of fibre material (for example those made from

cellulosic fibres, mixtures of PES and CO, of synthetic fibres, etc.).

In summary, products can be defined as a group if the same raw materials are used and the

same chemical procedure took place during production.

Note that because the costs of certification are partly related to the number of differentproducts you would like to certify it is worth to investigate which products could belong to agroup. This could enable you to have maximum profit of your certificate. Therefore, when youhave an idea of which products you would like to certify, it is wise to investigate whether thesecould form a product group with other products in your collection.

For more information on specific subjects of the certification, please see the external linksection for the Öko-Tex website.

What kind of products cannot be combined as a product group?- articles which are manufactured with different non-certified raw materials- articles that are manufactured into different qualities during the certificate validity

Examples of product groups:

• A producer of cotton clothing who purchases its cotton fabric from one supplier whoproduces all cotton fabric in a similar way is able to certify its cotton products under onecertificate.

• In case you produce baby clothing of different types of fabric (cotton and polyester) but allyour supplies bear the Öko-Tex 100 certificate, you are allowed to certify all of yourproducts under one certificate.




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As you can see, it is possible to compile various products to a product group. You cancontact the Öko-Tex secretariat for information on the most broad product group that can bedefined for your products.

Step 2: Are your supplies already certified according to Öko-Tex 100?

Next you will have to check with your suppliers whether the products you purchase from themare certified according to the Öko-Tex 100 criteria. If they are, the costs for certification willalso be lower than if the final product would need to be tested.

When applying for Öko-Tex 100 certification application you will need a copy of the Öko-Texcertificates of your suppliers as well as the following information:

1. Designation of the article2. Supplier3. Öko-Tex 100 Certificate number4. Expiry date of the Öko-Tex 100 certificate5. Product class (as shown at the beginning of the document)

6. Copy of the Öko-Tex 100 certificates

Step 3: Contact an official test institute and complete application form

First ask for the required application forms and filling out the application form with all theinformation requested. The more information you can provide the better. It is very importantto provide information on all chemicals, like dyes and auxiliaries, which are used in theproduction process. Based on this information Öko-Tex determines how many samples shouldbe produced and what tests need to be performed for certification.

On the website of Öko-Tex 100 under ‘institutes’ a list is provided of links to the official testinstitutes. Also there is booklet available “Öko-Tex Standard 100: general and special

conditions” in which both background information is provided as well as the application forms.Step 4: Declaration of commitment

In the declaration of commitment, you declare that you are responsible for the correctness of the information provided and that you are indeed obliged to inform the testing institute of anytechnical alterations.

Step 5: Test of sample by the test institute

The sample(s) you submit are tested by the official test institute according to the standardsand methods of Öko-Tex 100. All official test institutes test according to the same standardprocedures to ensure constant and uniform results. You will receive a test report with anoverview of the results. At this point, the test-report is only relevant for the tested articles.

Even if your product complies with all criteria of the Öko-Tex 100 Standard, you are not yetallowed to use the Öko-Tex 100 Mark “Confidence in Textiles”.

Costs

The costs of testing for certification thus depend on (1) whether your supplies are certifiedaccording to Öko-Tex 100 (also, see figures 1 to 3 at the next page), (2) the use of chemicalsand (3) the amount of products you would like to certify under 1 certificate.

Costs of applicationThe costs of application are a licence fee of € 650 per year in addition to the laboratory costs.The costs for prolongation also consist of the licence fee and the costs for testing if theproducts still comply.




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Sewingthread

Fabric

Lining

Carelabels

Buttons

Finished

product can

be certified

without t esting

Figure 1: If all your supplies are certifiedaccording to Öko-Tex 100, no additionaltesting is needed

Sewing

thread

Fabric

Lining

Care

labels

ButtonsFinished

product can

be certifiedafter

necessary

testing

Figure 2. If part of your supplies is certified,Öko-Tex 100 determines what testing isnecessary for certification

Sewing

thread

Fabric

Lining

Care

labels

Buttons

Finishedproduct can

be certified

after full

testing

Figure 3. If none of your supplies are certified according to Öko-Tex 100, full testing isrequired.

Step 6: Declaration of conformity

By means of this declaration the applicant declares, among others, that the products which willbe sold are the same as the products which were tested. In addition, you will have to provideinformation on how you will ensure that all products are the same quality as the testedproducts.

Note that by signing this declaration you grant the Öko-Tex Association the right to carryout control tests on products which are labelled during the time that the certificate is valid. Inaddition, the organisation will be authorised to monitor production sites through unannouncedvisits by auditors.

Step 7: The Öko-Tex 100 label

If you successfully pass through step 1 to 6 you will be awarded the Öko-Tex 100 certificatewhich is valid for 12 months. It is possible to prolong your certificate by applying for renewal.The process of renewal and the costs incurred are similar to that of initial certification.

Öko-Tex 1000

In addition to the Öko-Tex 100 standard, the Öko-TexAssociation has established a higher standard for textiles: theÖko-Tex 1000 standard that sets requirements for the wholeproduction chain.

The Öko-Tex 1000 certificate demonstrates that a company is effectively minimising theenvironmental effects of its production. The standard requires that companies have a minimumof 30% of total production certified according to Öko-Tex 100 standards as well as meetspecific criteria regarding environmentally friendly production processes. Examples of aspectswhich are investigated are:




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• Whether the use of certain environmentally hazardous substances like auxiliaries and dyesis excluded;

• Whether the effluents, emissions to air, the energy consumption, sound emissions, andemissions of dust comply with strict standards;

• Whether certain fundamental elements of an environmental management system are

adopted in the company.

At this moment, 36 companies are certified according to the Öko-Tex 1000 standard.

Labelling Scheme

Certification, criteria and testing

The Öko-Tex 1000 certificate can be granted by testing institutes which are members of theÖko-Tex International association. These institutes will decide whether a company meets thestandards based on an audit. The audit determines whether the production site is suitable forthe certification or which measures and improvements are required. Additionally, a visit to theproduction site will be made to assess whether the details provided in the application form are

conform to everyday practice. Once the Öko-Tex 1000 certificate is granted it is valid for 12months.

The Öko-Tex 100plus certificate is also granted by members of the Öko-Tex Internationalassociation. This label can be obtained by companies that are completely certified according toboth Öko-Tex 100 and Öko-Tex 1000 and meet additional criteria, which are mostly focused onenvironment. The Öko-Tex 100plus certificate demonstrates significant environmentalachievement.

Note that significant investments of energy, discipline and money are required to obtain theÖko-Tex 1000 standard. If your company have just started with more environmentally friendlyproduction methods, it is advisable to first apply for an Öko-Tex 100 label. The Öko-Tex 1000

standard is aimed at companies that are already in an advanced stage of environmentallysound production of textile products.

Monitoring

The testing institutes which are official members of the Öko-Tex association have the authorityto perform audit in order to ensure a company’s compliance. These visits can be unannounced.In addition, the institutes provide training in order to ensure the quality of testing.

Organisation

The Öko-Tex association was founded by a consortium of testing institutes from Germany,Austria and Switzerland. Currently, the international Öko-Tex association comprises 14renowned textile research and test institutes from Europe and Japan, with representative

agencies and contact offices in 0ver 30 countries worldwide.

Last updated: August 2008

consumer helath label_oko-tex for textile products

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