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It looks like the re-emergence of the unisex fragrance trend is set to be around for some time to come. This

trend for no-gender scents is largely driven by millennials, and more launches in the segment are set to hit the market as brands up their investment in targeting this consumer group. It is also a movement that can be seen in the wider marketplace, such as in fashion with initiatives like retailer Zara’s collection of unisex clothing called Ungendered. Last year the number of new unisex fragrance launches

reached 741, compared with 496 in 2014, according to data from Fragrances of the World 2016 by fragrance expert Michael Edwards. This trend can be seen in all segments of the market, at the high end, with lines such as Hermès’ Le Jardin de Monsieur Li, in the mainstream with the major new initiative for the Calvin Klein brand, ck2, which was released earlier this year or Kenzo’s Totem, which launched last year. The trend is also prevalent in the niche area. Indeed, at this year’s Esxence trade show, which is devoted to niche perfumery and took place at the end of March in Milan, there was a strong presence of new unisex fragrances. Anything that can help the fragrance industry to recruit younger consumers can

only be viewed as positive. And brands will no doubt comfort themselves in the thought that with this type of offer they will also widen their consumer base on one product by appealing to both sexes.

The unisex draw The buzz 2News roundup

Netwatch 5 Social media monitor

Interview 6Bluemercury founder and ceo Marla Malcolm Beck

Insight 8 Iran

Show review 12 Esxence, Milan

Store visit 14 Sulwhasoo, Seoul

Oonagh PhillipsEditor in [email protected]

www.bwconfidential.com The inside view on the international beauty industry April 14-27, 2016 #129

News headlines daily on www.bwconfidential.com @BWCbeautynews

Meet the BW Confidential

team at:

l BeautyEurasia, Istanbul, April 21-23l TFWA Asia Pacific, Singapore, May 8-12 l Luxe Pack New York, May 11-12l Beauty World Middle East, Dubai, May 15-17l China Beauty Expo, Shanghai, May 18-20


www.bwconfidential.com - April 14-27, 2016 #129 - CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIAL

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Chinese investment group Fosun has acquired Israel-based Dead Sea mineral skincare brand Ahava for $76.8m. Fosun stated that it aims to expand Ahava to China and other countries. Ahava, which was founded in 1988, is sold in department stores, perfumeries and independent stores in 30 countries.

L’Oréal Paris is to launch a new website in June, which aims to aggregate skincare information. The site, called BeautifulSkin.com, is dubbed the Google for skincare. The site can be used to search for information (data and articles) based on skincare needs and concerns. It will also host live chats and aims to create a skincare community.L’Oréal Paris will also unveil the Skin Genius skincare app in July (in the UK, it will then

launch in France in September). Following on from the Makeup Genius app launched in 2014, Skin Genius provides an aging mirror that acts as a personalized simulation of the way that the user’s skin is likely to age. Users take a photo with their smartphone and enter information based on their lifestyle and environment. They are then assisted by a skin coach, who offers a personalized skincare routine and solutions.

UK-based online beauty retailer Feelunique has secured £20m ($28.2m) in funding from its current shareholder Palamon Capital Partners, alongside two new unnamed co-investors. Feelunique says the investment will help boost international expansion. The group recently launched a Chinese website, which it says is performing “beyond

expectations”. It also moved into France in November last year through the acquisition of French perfumery chain Parfumeries Rive Droite, which operates four stores. Feelunique has opened a French distribution center and hired a local executive team. The company reported total retail sales of £65m ($91.7m) for the year ending March 31,

2016, up 23% on last year. It claims to have more than 1.6 million registered customers, of which 87% are female, with core repeat customers buying six times per year. Feelunique’s website is available in five languages.

Indian home and personal-care company Godrej Consumer Products Limited is to buy US-based haircare company Strength of Nature, which specializes in products for consumers of African descent. Strength of Nature’s brands are sold in 50 countries and include African Pride, Profectiv, MegaGrowth, Motions, Just for Me, TCB, Beautiful Textures, Dream Kids, Elasta QP, Proline and Soft & Beautiful. The company reported sales of $95m in 2015. The acquisition will give Godrej a larger footprint in Africa, where it now hopes to double its business in the next four years. n n n

Stay informed with our daily news headlines on www.bwconfidential.com

n Chinese investment group Fosun acquires Ahava

n L’Oréal Paris to launch BeautifulSkin.com and Skin Genius

n Feelunique secures $28.2m in funding

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www.bwconfidential.com - April 14-27, 2016 #129 -

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n n n Avon Products is to collaborate with designer Kenzo Takada to launch a new fragrance collection. Called Avon LIFE By Kenzo Takada, the line will include a scent for men and one for women and will launch later this year. Avon and Kenzo Takada are also working together on a fashion line, which the group says will launch in fall 2016. Kenzo’s premium fragrances are currently marketed by French group LVMH.

Results

France-based LVMH reported sales of €8.62bn for the first quarter of 2016, up 4% from the same period last year. On an organic basis (on a comparable structure and at constant exchange rates) sales rose 3%.Sales in the perfume and cosmetics division were up 7% to €1.21bn (+9% on an

organic basis). The company said that Christian Dior had seen strong growth with the Sauvage men’s fragrance, while citing the launch of Poison Girl as a highlight of the quarter. It also noted that Guerlain expanded La Petite Robe Noire into make-up. In the selective retailing division, sales rose 4% on both a reported and organic basis to

€2.75bn. The group said Sephora gained market share, while travel-retail operator DFS continues to be faced with an uncertain economic environment in Asia.

Swiss flavor and fragrance company Givaudan reported sales of CHF1.15bn ($1.21bn) for the first quarter of 2016, a 5.6% increase (+5.8% like-for-like) year-on-year. The group’s fragrance division sales were up 8.1% (+8.3% like-for-like) to CHF561m

($589m). Including Induchem, which Givaudan acquired in August last year, sales came to CHF6.1m ($6.4m). Fine fragrance sales rose 10.1% on a like-for-like basis, driven by new wins and a low level of erosion. In emerging markets, sales were fueled by Latin America, while double-digit growth in North America compensated for lower sales in Western Europe. In Western Europe sales were impacted by a weaker holiday sell through. In other news, Givaudan has rebranded its active cosmetics business Active Beauty. The

aim is to bring the group’s recent acquisitions of bio-sourced active cosmetic ingredients company Soliance and cosmetic ingredients firm Induchem under one single brand name.

Retail

Pharmacy group Walgreens Boots Alliance has taken a 15% stake in Russian health and beauty retailer 36.6. The stake is in return for Walgreens Boots Alliance’s sale of its local pharmaceutical wholesale business, Alliance Healthcare Russia, to 36.6.

US-based beauty box subscription company Birchbox is to open four shop-in-shops in French department stores this month, reinforcing its brick-and-mortar retail strategy.The company will open a space on the ground floor of Paris’ Bon Marché

department store, following on from its pop-up stores at the retailer last year. The space will enable shoppers to create their own beauty boxes using five travel-sized products. Birchbox will also open spaces in Galeries Lafayette stores in Strasbourg, Marseille

and Toulouse. The assortment in these three outlets will include best-selling brands from Birchbox’s e-shop. n n n

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US-based Revlon has appointed Juan Figuereo as executive vice president and chief financial officer. Figuereo was most recently evp and cfo of telecommunications company NII Holdings. The announcement follows the recent appointment of Fabian Garcia as Revlon’s president and ceo.Revlon has also promoted Jerusa Moura as the new director of its global travel-retail

business. The appointment follows the recent promotion of David Carvalho, who has taken on the role of svp of Revlon’s Consumer business internationally, in charge of markets outside North America as well as global travel retail. Moura was most recently Revlon’s global marketing director for distributors and travel retail.

Data

A growing number of North American cosmetics brands are adopting ethical food labels, as consumers demand the same level of traceability and safety from personal-care products as they get from natural and organic foods, according to new data from research group Organic Monitor. The company said 15% of natural personal-care products are now certified, representing

a market value of over $700m. Natural and organic remain the most popular ethical labels for personal-care, while non-GMO Project Verified is the fastest-growing ethical label, and has been adopted by about 500 personal-care products within a few years. Gluten-free labels in personal-care products are also becoming more widespread due to increased use of food ingredients in cosmetics.

Trade shows

The Duty Free Show of the Americas, which took place in Orlando, Florida from April 3-6, reported an 11% drop in visitors to 2,400, compared with last year’s event, which itself saw a 5% decline. However, show organizer IAADFS suggested that this represents a stronger turnout than anticipated, given the challenged market in much of Latin America, as well as the consolidation of industry players. While the major buyers are still attending the show—they numbered roughly 640, compared with 662 in 2015—they are sending smaller delegations. The number of beauty exhibitors at the show fell to 33, versus 44 a year earlier, as many major players with offices in Miami continued to leave the show. See our next issue for a full report on the show. n

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BW Confidential reports on what’s being said about beauty on social networks

Social media monitor

The natural skincare line launched by Gwyneth Paltrow, Goop by Juice Beauty, is liked for its modern and attractive image for an organic brand. But bloggers also wonder if the brand is worth the price. Products cost between $90 and $145, compared with $45 for a Juice Beauty product.

‘From Farm to Face’, the new skincare trend based on fresh ingredients, has attracted attention from bloggers interested in wholesome or nutritious products. Brands like Farmacy, Nuori and Sustainable Healing are liked for their avant-garde vision, but some bloggers question whether the trend will last.

A new foundation pen applicator, E-Stylo Adorn, has been described as breaking new ground in terms of personalizing make-up colors. It features a 3D scanner integrated in the pen, which can analyze the skin’s color and adapt the foundation accordingly.

Snail mucin-based skincare is gaining traction in the US on the back of positive reviews of these products and Korean-inspired trends. Some of the most interesting products in this area, according to bloggers, include Missha Super Aqua Cell Renew Snail Cream, Dr Jart+ Time Returning Serum and ReVive Intensité Line Erasing Serum.

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Get inspired.Trends & Innovations in the Worldof Cosmetics DevelopmentINGREDIENTS | MANUFACTURING | PACKAGING | SERVICES | PRIVATE LABEL

Time to start planning the product concepts of the future!Over 400 suppliers will exclusively present their ideas and inspirations for the development and marketing of your cosmetics portfolio.

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US-based beauty chain Bluemercury was acquired by department-store group Macy’s last year. Founder and ceo Marla Malcolm Beck explains the impact of the sale and gives her outlook for beauty retailing

Next steps

What has been the impact of the Macy’s acquisition?We are a separately owned subsidiary and Macy’s sees us as an innovation platform. It is investing heavily in our digital capability. Macy’s is the number-seven digital e-commerce player in the country, so that’s a huge opportunity for us. In terms of expanding our footprint, we continue to open free-standing stores, with 24

openings planned for this year. We opened four shop-in-shops in Macy’s at the end of last year, which have our treatment rooms and services. We are bringing our expert skincare and make-up advice in an assisted open-sell format to Macy’s. Customers are responding well and they are excited as they walk into an area where they can get advice on many brands; it’s bringing different formats to an existing customer base.The department-store standard has been about selling everything brand by brand, but

if you open a consumer’s bag that’s not how she shops. That was the foundation of Bluemercury when we started; we’re set up for the customer and how she shops. She wants the best of the best, and the best of the new, from every brand. So [there is a] desire [from department stores] to explore this mode of shopping while continuing to drive expertise and volume in their core brands. Macy’s has very compelling counters like Chanel, Clinique and Lancôme and these businesses are important. If you want a Chanel expert you go to the counter, for a multi-branded experience you go into Bluemercury.

How do you see the development of e-commerce?Omni-channel needs to be unique and individual for each retailer. We know that our consumer is going online, looking at trends or my blog and she may transact online, but often she is coming into the store to touch and feel. When you look at the discovery process for beauty purchasing, it has fragmented in a powerful way: there are so many different sources of information now and the retailer as an omni-channel player has to understand what that is for their target consumer. Too much in e-commerce, everybody tries to do what everybody else is doing without looking at who their core consumer is. Social media is in its infancy, so it’s all opportunity. Only 6% of beauty purchases [in the

US] are online; 94% of transactions are still in store. It’s anybody’s game. As long as you are looking at your customers and not at your competitors, you are in the right place.

How do you see the potential for skin diagnosis and customizing products in store? Anytime you personalize a skin diagnosis using technology it is very compelling. The technology needs to be a little bit more mobile, it’s a little clunky right now, but equipment that enhances the skincare experience not just at home, but on the store n n n

Bluemercury founder and ceo Marla Malcolm Beck

“

”Bluemercury founder and ceo Marla Malcolm Beck

[Macy’s] is investing heavily in our digital capability. Macy’s is the number-seven digital e-commerce player in the country, so that’s a huge opportunity for us

Bluemercuryl Founded: Georgetown,

Washington, 1999l Acquired: by Macy’s in February 2015 for $210m

l Number of stores: 79 standalone stores in the US, plus

four Macy’s shop in shops l Plans for store openings:

24 new standalone stores to open in 2016, with the aim of a total of

115 stores in 2017



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n n n floor, will continue to be attractive to the consumer. There’s so much technology around make-up and you’re starting to see skincare

technology based on a split face [before and after]. HSN and QVC have done before and after looks as part of their marketing for a very long time, and bringing that to the consumer on her own face and showcasing some of that based on science could be interesting. But you have to be careful about over promising.

How is Bluemercury responding to increased demand for services?We’ve always done a lot of events like mother/daughter makeover days, so we’re exploring how we add digital to those events. The client doesn’t want digital for digital’s sake; they want it to enhance their shopping experience. They want to be able to walk into a store and do research as they look at a product, not just on the product, but on the ingredients and what they do.

How is your relationship with brands evolving? Brands are closer [to us] than they have ever been. We go brand-by-brand to talk about the future, how we are going to demonstrate their product to consumers, and what their reason for being in our store is. For example, we’ve added Clinique to a lot of our locations. It’s not a brand we typically carry but we’re seeing a lot of teens come in with their mums and it’s a great starter brand for them. The reason for that brand being in your store and working closely to figure out how it relates to your consumer is critical.

What is your approach to the development of your own brand M-61? M-61 is only at Bluemercury and it is our number-one skincare brand. When we create products, we do so where there is white space. Everything is tested in the stores and spas before it’s brought to market. We have that unique opportunity of being close to the client. Our Hydroboost eye cream is our number-one eye cream and that’s because we listened to what the client wanted—she wanted something that she could use morning and night, and under concealer.

How do you see the development of the skincare market?Every age group has a skincare need or a set of problems they need solving. The opportunity is huge to tailor your message by segment, you can’t be one size fits all. It’s about who is the target and making sure you communicate through all channels to the client you are looking for. The American consumer wants instant results in minimal time, so the powerful products do really well, as do naturals. We see it in urban cities especially; natural brands are starting to accelerate, as are highly technical brands. There are also categories that make resurgences

from time to time, so you need to be watching that. For example, there is the rediscovery of the mask category, which is hot right now. n

Bluemercury founder and ceo Marla Malcolm Beck

“

”Bluemercury founder and ceo Marla Malcolm Beck

Social media is in its infancy, so it’s all opportunity. Only 6% of beauty purchases [in the US] are online; 94% of the transactions are still in store. It’s anybody’s game. As long as you are looking at your customers and not at your competitors, you are in the right place

s Macy’s acquired Bluemercury last year to bring an open-sell format to its beauty offer


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All eyes are on Iran. The potential lifting of sanctions on the horizon for later this year suggests that doing business in this lucrative, yet complex beauty

market is set to become easier. The country is already the world’s seventh-largest beauty market, and the second-largest in the Middle East after Saudi Arabia, despite many brands not yet being officially present there.Euromonitor International put the total

beauty market in Iran at $3.68bn in 2015. However, according to industry estimates, Iran imports some $4bn worth of beauty products each year, of which around a quarter are prestige items. The parallel market for unofficial imports is estimated to represent an additional 40%. The country has a population of nearly 82 million, more than 60% of which is under 30, and 49% of which is female. Young women are avid beauty consumers, especially of make-up, and the fact that many live at home with their parents means they have disposable income to spend on cosmetics. It is estimated than Iranian women spend on average 30% of their disposable n n n

Iran’s beauty market is set to see fast growth over the next five years, but doing business in the country is far from easy. BW Confidential analyzes the state of the market



Eyeing up the marketIran

Iran beauty sales* by category 2015Category Sales 2015

$m% change 2015/2014

Haircare 872.5 +4.6Color cosmetics 666.0 +5.3Skincare 371.4 +4.5Fragrance 238.0 +5.3Men’s grooming 189.4 +2.4Premium beauty & personal care

767.5 +7.5

Mass beauty & personal care

2,680 +4.0

Total beauty & personal care

3,679 +4.7

Source: Euromonitor International *Retail sales price, constant prices


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n n n income on beauty and fashion. “Per capita consumption is four times higher than in Europe,” comments ICB Innovative Cosmetics Brands, a division of German group ArtDeco managing partner Sascha Reinhard. The BeYu brand, part of ICB’s portfolio, is the number-two prestige make-up brand in Iran after Bourjois, and has been present there for more than 10 years. Iranian consumers buy on average 23 bottles of fragrance per year, compared

to three on average for a French woman, according to Iranian distributor NPH&I, owner of the Safir perfumery chain. In make-up, on average, Iranian consumers buy one mascara and one lipstick per month, NPH&I estimates. “The market exists, it’s not something new. It’s the seventh market in the world and has always been permeable and non-official imports from Dubai have always existed,” says Daniel Cressy, a consultant for NPH&I. “The Iranian woman consumes a lot, especially in make-up and fragrance. Culturally, you can see her face, so it’s traditionally a strong market for make-up and nails. In fragrance, she is very adventurous.”

Complexity continuesSeveral players suggest that the size of Iran’s beauty market could double over the next five years if sanctions are lifted. Yet, despite Iran’s potential, those on the ground warn of its ongoing complexity, with importing products a regulatory minefield, while difficulties in transferring funds and ever-changing regulations mean it is not a country to rush into. “They are talking about lifting sanctions, but they are not lifted yet,” comments ICB’s Reinhard. “It’s still quite tough to import: every single product has to be registered by the Ministry of Health, and this registration process is difficult and takes a lot of time, paperwork and money. They say [the market] will open, but today, you can’t really see it.”In the past, it was impossible to transfer money out of Iran, making business

relations difficult. “Four years ago, nobody could send a penny outside Iran, so they couldn’t import any products,” explains Kiavash Kashani, president of niche fragrance distributor Ervin Tejarat Nojan Ltd, which has been present on the market since 2005 and represents brands including Amouage and Maison Francis Kurkdjian. This, however, is changing, with recent moves by the country’s government making it easier to transfer funds, one factor that is already making official business relations easier.Meanwhile, some sources suggest that the military government encouraged

unofficial imports in the past, supporting the development of the gray market. This, however, is also changing. “Nowadays the controls are tougher and tougher, so you need a really good distributor,” says Reinhard. “Every product in official retail now has to be labelled with a special sticker proving it is registered with the Ministry of Health. The end consumer can see if the product is imported regularly.”American brands are still not allowed to enter Iran, although most of

the majors are present in an unofficial capacity. Certain American players are reported to be preparing for official entry, but for the moment they cannot legally do so, and when it may be possible for them to launch remains an unknown.Many European brands, for which access is already easier due to better n n n

“

”Ervin Tejarat Nojan Ltd president Kiavash Kashani

We focus on the best retailers because I can’t trust the rest of the retailers—they could disappear tomorrow

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n n n diplomatic relations with the country, have also chosen to enter the market unofficially. It is estimated that even for those with official distribution, up to 80% of products are imported unofficially to avoid import duties of 55%. “If you talk to someone who says they do it 100% legally, they are lying,” Kashani states.Certain brands, like Chanel and Sisley, have chosen to avoid the market until

now. “Now everybody wants to register. If we go, we will definitely go officially, it is a project for this year,” says Sisley regional director for the Middle East and Africa Sébastien Gautier.Market players cite the difficulty of getting reliable market information,

however, making it tough to build relations from scratch. “We have three different partners for all our brands,” says Reinhard. “If you ask for new regulations, every partner will tell you something different. The problem is, where do you get information from? There is no chamber of commerce to give you a proper answer. The official government does what it wants and the rules change nearly monthly. It depends an awful lot on your partner and their relationships.”

Prestige retail set to growSome suggest that despite high-quality retail, the distribution network is already saturated, as stores are generally small due to high property rental prices, meaning competition among brands is rife. “Whenever [a retailer] wants to launch a brand, they need to replace something else. The competition is very tough, it doesn’t matter what type of brand we are talking about,” says Kashani. As more brands enter the market, this pressure is expected to intensify.In addition, ownership levels for property are low due to the lack of access to

credit, pushing rentals up and meaning high turnover for properties. “We focus on the best retailers because I can’t trust the rest of the retailers—they could disappear tomorrow,” Kashani adds.The main retail players are Meisam ATR, with 24 stores and a strong position

in make-up, NPHI-owned Safir, the leader in fragrance, with 25 doors and plans for 100 over the next three years, and Roja, with 11 outlets. The rest of the market—estimated at around 200 prestige perfumeries—is made up mainly of traditional, independent perfumeries. UK retailer Debenhams, present via a franchise arrangement, is the only department-store operator. Reports suggest Chalhoub-owned beauty chain Wojooh is preparing to enter the market, as well as Sephora with a potential two stores planned for this year, according to sources. However, certain players believe its model would be too complex to import to Iran. “How could Sephora import its private label? Product registration takes between four and six months, and then they have the American brands. I can’t see how they could reproduce the same store model,” comments NPH&I’s Cressy.Some 70% of prestige distribution is concentrated in Tehran, with the

remainder in cities including Isfahan and Shiraz. Retail is expected to develop significantly in coming years, with the number of perfumeries expected to double. “I’m sure retail will develop, but I am convinced [the development] will be from the local players who are already there,” says Reinhard. n n n

“

”ICB Innovative Cosmetics Brands managing partner Sascha Reinhard

It’s still quite tough to import: every single product has to be registered by the Ministry of Health, and this registration process is difficult and takes a lot of time, paperwork and money. They say [the market] will open, but today, you can’t really see it




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n n n Mall developments are booming, especially in Tehran, yet despite the potential for more retail space, players are wary. Many beauty brands, meanwhile, choose the pharmacy route, especially for

skincare but also for make-up, as there are an estimated 11,000 pharmacy doors in the country, with high levels of service. Pierre Fabre’s skincare brands, for example, distributed by NPH&I, are present in 4,000 pharmacies.Those present on the market warn of the importance of working with a

knowledgeable local distributor with awareness not only of legal issues, but also of cultural differences. They add that companies should not presume that it will be easier to approach the country with a master distributor from the Middle East. “You need a Persian company based in Tehran to do the business. It makes no sense to take someone in Dubai,” says ICB’s Reinhard. “There is a lot of opportunism from Dubai-based distributors, but they are not necessarily welcome,” comments Cressy.While political changes may make it easier for international brands to enter

the country, they are also likely to mean immense structural upheaval as the market moves towards more transparency. Tapping into the Iranian cosmetics and fragrance market necessitates a long-term strategy based on a strong relationship with a local partner. Despite its potential, the Iranian market is no fast buck. n


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Esxence Took place: March 31-April 3, Milan, Italy Exhibitors: 206, +25% vs 2015Visitors: 7,083 vs 6,490 in 2015

Seen in show Perfumer trio Mark Buxton, Bertrand Duchaufour, and Geza Schoen presented their first collection of three scents at the show under the brand name Renegades. Each perfumer created a scent and each bottle features a removable magnet in the form of a caricature of its corresponding perfumer. The scents retail at €195 for 100ml and will be available online via the brand’s e-shop. Renegades will be sold in limited distribution and will target niche stores.

Qatar-based company S.Ishira showed Phi, its first collection, comprised of six scents. According to the brand, the perfumes are based on the mathematical principle of the golden ratio, which is used in both the creation of the juice and the flacons. The fragrances were created by perfumer Shaikha al Misned, who is also the brand’s owner. The brand has not yet launched in retail, but says it will target high-spending zones such as London and Paris. The 100ml EdP retails at €250.

Spanish company Ramon Molvizar presented its latest products, a unisex fragrance called art&silver&perfume, and a woman’s scent called art&gold&perfume. Part of the company’s Gold Collection, the two scents will launch this month and are priced at €254 for 75ml. According to the group, both scents draw inspiration from Istanbul’s Topkapi Palace. Ramon Molvizar is sold through luxury boutiques in more than 45 countries.

Italian brand Mendittorosa Odori d’Anima unveiled Nettuno, a unisex scent inspired by Marco Pesatori’s poem Neptune’s Flight. Created by Amélie Bourgeois of Flair Paris, Nettuno is the third extrait de parfum in the brand’s Talismans—Collezione Preziosa collection. The 100ml extrait de parfum retails at €225. The fragrance is available n n n

Esxence, the show dedicated to niche perfumery, continues to expand, with this year’s edition welcoming 206 brands compared to 165 in 2015, and 7,083 visitors.

Esxence’s co-founder Silvio Levi says that the show has become a “cathedral of niche”, which now acts as a complete networking platform for the niche community. Exhibitors echoed this view and said there was a strong presence of international distributors and retail buyers. As was the case in 2015, this year’s show featured the Esxkin section, devoted to niche skincare, which housed 20 brands. In terms of trends on show, there was a strong presence of Arabic fragrances and

unisex perfumes, while the personalization of scents was a key talking point.

BW Confidential reports on what was seen and heard at the eighth edition of the Esxence show, which took place from March 31-April 3 in Milan, Italy

Niche on show

Esxence


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Esxencen n n on German website Aus Liebe Zum Duft (First in Fragrance) and will launch on the brand’s own online store in the next few weeks. It will then roll out to niche perfumeries and concept stores. Mendittorosa Odori d’Anima is present in Italy, France, Germany, Poland, Dubai and Saudi Arabia.

Barcelona-based Carner Barcelona showcased its collection of seven perfumes, including its new offering, Costarela. Created by Shyamala Maisondieu of Givaudan, Costarela claims to evoke the Mediterranean sea breeze, and features a marine accord, a sand accord and a base that includes Virginian cedarwood. It will be available on Carner’s e-store and roll out to other points of sale at the end of April. It costs €95 for 50ml EdP and €145 for 100ml EdP. Carner is sold in 30 countries, mainly in independent perfumeries in Europe.

It plans to expand in the UK and the US, where it aims to launch in department stores.

Parfums Salvador Dali (Cofinluxe) presented its high-end collection of five perfumes inspired by the artist’s jewelry creations. The fragrances, composed by Firmenich’s Alberto Morillas, launched in Russia in January 2016. The 100ml EdP retails at €295.

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Sulwhasoo flagship l Opened: March 30

l Location: Dosan-daero, Seoul, Korea

l Size: 1,500m2 (16,146ft2) l Special features:

two spas, heritage zone, culture lounge for special events

Seoul-based AmorePacific is looking to make a statement for its Sulwhasoo brand with opening of its first Korean flagship store. The company claims the 1,500m2 (16,146ft2)

six-story boutique, which opened on March 30, is the largest store for a single beauty brand in the country. The opening of the store is part of Sulwhasoo’s strategy to become the number-one beauty brand in Asia this year and the number-seven beauty brand globally by 2020. Located in the fashionable Dosan-daero district of Seoul, the store aims to showcase

the brand’s herbal medicine cosmetics heritage and puts a strong focus on services. The first floor is home to the Heritage Zone, which presents Sulwhasoo’s brand philosophy, as well as seasonal offerings and new products. The second floor hosts the brand’s complete collection of skincare and make-up products and consumers can also benefit from advice sessions with the store’s staff. This floor features a gift zone, providing a special packaging service. On the third floor is the Culture Lounge, where the brand will hold cultural events on a regular basis. There is also a VIP Lounge for loyal customers. In addition, the store houses two spas: the Sulwhasoo Spa offers anti-aging programs based on Korean medicinal herbs, while Sulwhasoo Balance Spa proposes a casual spa experience with a view of Dosan Park.Last year, AmorePacific said that Sulwhasoo became the first beauty brand in Korea to

record annual sales of Krw1 trillion ($867.9m). It also claims that the brand has been the number-one beauty brand (by sales) in Korean department stores since 2005 and saw 40% growth in 2015. Sulwhasoo launched internationally in 2004 and is now available in Greater China, Singapore, Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia, Taiwan, Vietnam, and the US. n

AmorePacific is thinking big with its new flagship store for the Sulwhasoo brand

Brand building




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s The second floor is home to the brand’s complete collection of skincare and make-up and features a gift zone, providing a special packaging service

s The Heritage Zone (left) presents Sulwhasoo’s brand philosophy, as well as seasonal offerings and new products. The store has two spas (right), one with a view of Dosan Park

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