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IntroductionTexturing is increasingly gaining importance in textileproduction, not only in yarns for weaving and knittingfashion products, but also for carpets, furnishing fab-rics and a variety of technical textiles. False-twist andair-jet texturing methods are most common processes.Textured yarns impart higher bulk, excellent dimen-sional stability and softer handle to the fabric. Falsetwist draw textured yarns are commercially known asdraw textured yarn. In the draw texturising processcrimps are introduced into the filaments by twisting,heating and untwisting. In the air-texturing process oneor more ends of multifilament yarns are passed througha jet in which air turbulence is maintained. Multifila-ment yarn or yarns are fed into the jet at a higher rateand withdrawn at a lower rate. The airflow causes thefilaments to be blown apart, curled into loops [1]. Drawtextured and air jet textured yarns have different struc-tures. A draw textured yarn is consisting of crimpyparallel filaments and air jet textured yarn has en-tangled core and surface loops. Therefore, characteris-tics of the two textured yarns differ because of differ-ence in the arrangement of filaments. In this investiga-tional work, polyester partially oriented yarn wastexturised into draw textured and air jet textured yarnsusing industrial scale draw and air jet texturisingmachines and characteristics of both textured yarnswere compared.

2. Material and Methodology2.1 MaterialPolyester POY of 126/34 denier was used.

2.2 MethodologyPolyester draw textured yarn was manufactured usingHimson HDS-CX2 draw texturing machine at a deliv-ery speed of 300mpm, primary heater temperature of1800c, secondary heater temperature of 1600C, drawratio of 1.7, D/Y of 2, stabilising overfeed of 4% andtake-up overfeed of 6%.

The polyester POY, which was used for manufacturingdraw textured yarn, was also used for preparing air jettextured yarn. Before feeding it to the air jet texturisingmachine, POY was drawn to 1.7 draw ratio at heatertemperature of 1900C on Himson HDS-CX2 draw tex-turing machine and texturising discs and secondaryheater were bypassed. In order to convert FDY in toair jet textured yarn, the drawn polyester yarn [FDY]was fed to Himson HJT-1000 air-jet texturising ma-chine at 300 mpm, 8kg/cm2 air pressure, 1litter/jet/hrwater, 30% overfeed to jet and stabilizing heater tem-perature of 1800C.

2.3 TestingThe following tests were carried out for textured yarns.

2.3.1. Linear densityLinear density of draw textured and air-jet texturedyarns was tested using ASTM D1907-07.

2.3.2. Tensile CharacteristicsTensile properties of the draw textured and air-jet tex-tured yarn was measured according to ASTM D2256-

Characteristics of Draw Textured andAir-Jet Textured Yarns

M.Y. Gudiyawar* & Rahul GadkariDepartment of Textiles, D.K.T.E.S. Textile & Engineering Institute

AbstractPolyester false twist draw textured and air- jet textured yarns were manufactured using draw and air jettexturising machines. Both the textured yarns were manufactured using same feed yarn and draw ratio. Thetwo textured yarns were evaluated for bulkiness, tensile, shrinkage and moisture management characteris-tics. The draw textured yarn was found to have higher strength, breaking elongation, dimensional stability,moisture absorbency, moisture transportation and lower bulk as compared to air jet textured yarn.

KeywordsAir-jet textured yarn, Draw textured yarn, Drop absorbency, Physical bulk

*All the correspondence should be addressed to,M.Y. GudiyawarDepartment of TextilesD.K.T.E.S. Textile & Engineering Institute,Ichalkaranji-416115(M.S), India.Email : [email protected]

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95a using Instron tester with 500 mm gauge length,300 mm/min crosshead speed.

2.3.3. Crimp rigidity%The crimp rigidity is a measure of the ability of a drawtextured yarn to recover from stretch. The draw tex-tured yarn crimp rigidity was measured as per Hosieryand Allied Trades Research Association standard. Inthis test, a load equivalent to 0.1g/den was suspendedfrom a skein of yarn which was immersed in water atroom temperature. After 2 minutes, its length L1 wasmeasured. The load was then reduced to 0.002g/denand after another 2 minutes, the reduced length L2was measured [2]. The crimp rigidity is given by theformula:

(L1-L2)Crimp rigidity = ×100

L1

2.3.4 Physical bulkThe physical bulk of the draw textured and air-jettextured yarn was measured by using Du Pont's method.In this method, a length of yarn weighing 85 gramswas wound on the package before and after texturingat the same tension. The ratio of the package densityof parent yarn to the package density of textured yarnmultiplied by 100 gives the physical bulk of the tex-tured yarn [3].

(Package density of parent yarn (g/cc)Physical bulk (%) = ×100

(Package density of textured yarn (g/cc)

(m2-m1)Package density (g/cc) =

(l ×(r2 - r1)

Where, m2 = weight of full bobbin (gm) m1 = weight of empty bobbin (gm) l = length of yarn on package (cm)r2 = radius of full bobbin (cm)r1 = radius of empty bobbin (cm)

2.3.5. Wicking heightWicking height of draw textured and air-jet texturedyarn was measured as per German standard DIN 53924.A yarn sample of 25 cm length, preconditioned at 200C,65% RH was suspended vertically with its lower endimmersed in a reservoir of 200 ml distilled water. Tothe vertically suspended sample 2 g of load was at-tached at the lower end. Ink was added to the reservoirof distilled water for tracking the movement of water.The height reached by the water in the yarn above thewater level in the reservoir was measured at different

time intervals.2.3.6. Drop absorbencyA weight was attached at one end on the sample toimpart tensile force in the yarn equal to the weight.The custom made tiny pipette was used to measurewater to an accuracy of 0.5 mg. A water droplet wasplaced on the yarn and the time taken for the waterdroplet to wick into the yarn and disappear was mea-sured as drop absorbency time of both the texturedyarn.

2.3.7. Boiling Water ShrinkageASTM D6207 testing procedure was used for dimen-sional stability measurement of draw textured and air-jet textured yarn. This test method covers the determi-nation of shrinkage of yarns in skein form when im-mersed in boiling water.

3. Results and discussion

Table 3.1: characteristics of draw textured and air jettextured yarns

Characteristics Draw Air-jettextured textured yarn

Yarn tex 82 83Tenacity grams/tex 31 20Breaking elongation % 20 11Crimp rigidity % 17 --Boiling water shrinkage 13 16Physical bulk % 157 164wicking height cm 2.95 2.1Drop absorbency sec 3 2

3.1 Textured yarn structure and bulkThe structures of draw textured and air jets texturedare shown in Figures 3.1-3.2.The draw textured yarnhas wavy filaments. Air jet textured yarn has loops onthe surface and these loops are held in their positionby the entanglement of filaments and this entangle-ment makes the core of air jet textured yarns. The air-textured yarn structure is characterized by loop fre-quency, size of loops and core diameters, which influ-ence the characteristics and appearance of yarns [4].Whereas, the draw textured yarn has crimpy filamentsalmost parallel to each other without core and surfaceloops. The draw and air textured yarns have physicalbulk. The changes in yarn properties are due to theformation of bulked structure. The level of physical

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bulk is different for the two textured yarns. The physi-cal bulk value of draw and air jet textured yarns areshown in Table 3.1. The bulk of textile structures isdependent upon their packing density. Lower the pack-ing density, higher the bulk. The air textured yarn hashigher bulk than draw textured yarn. The higher bulkof air jet textured yarn is due to its lower packingdensity. The air jet textured yarns occupy more vol-ume for the given weight as compared to draw tex-tured yarns due to the surface loops. Therefore, thepacking density of air jet textured yarns is lower and

bulk is higher than draw textured yarn.3.2 Tensile characteristics

Figure 3.3: Tenacity of Textured yarns.

Figure 3.4: Breaking Elongation of Textured Yarns.

The tenacity and breaking elongation of draw texturedand air jet textured yarns are shown in Figures 3.3 and3.4 respectively. Draw textured yarns have higherstrength and higher breaking elongation as comparedto air jet textured yarn. There is also significant differ-ence in the tenacity and elongation of draw and air jettextured yarns. The partially oriented yarn, used asfeed yarn for the two yarns manufacturing, is sameand drawn to the same draw ratio. It means structureof the yarn due to texturising has resulted in the dif-ference of tensile characteristics. The structure of yarnsis shown in Figures 3.1 and 3.2. The lower tenacityand lower breaking elongation of air jet textured yarns,firstly, is due to the higher filaments entanglement inthe yarn core formed by texturising [5] and secondly,due to the obliquity effect and the lower number offilaments sharing the axial load. The air jet texturedyarns have surface loops and entangled core [Figure3.1] and these surface loops reduce the number offilament in the yarn core and filament entanglement inthe core increases the obliquity effect. The higherstrength of draw textured yarns as compared to air jettextured yarns is due to the crimpy parallel filamentswithout entanglement. The draw texturising processalso increases the disorientation of molecules in thefilament and this higher disorientation of moleculesand crimps of filament increase the breaking elonga-tion of filament. The air jet texturing process does not

Figure 3.1: Microscopic structure ofdraw textured yarns

Figure 3.2: Microscopic Structure ofAir-jet textured yarn

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change the molecular orientation of filament [6].3.3 Boiling water shrinkage of textured yarns

Figure 3.5: Boiling Water Shrinkageof Textured Yarns.

Boiling water shrinkage of textured yarn is a functionof the shrinkage of feeder yarn and the heat treatmentgiven during texturising process. The Boiling watershrinkage of draw and air jet textured yarns is shownin Figure 3.5 and there is significant difference in theBoiling water shrinkage of draw and air jet texturedyarns. Boiling water shrinkage of draw textured yarnis lower than air jet textured yarn. It means draw tex-tured yarn has higher dimensional stability as com-pared to air jet textured yarn. The higher dimensionalstability of draw textured yarn is due to heating ofyarn on both primary and secondary heater and air jettextured yarn is heated only on one heater. The mol-ecules of draw textured yarn relax better than air jettextured yarn and higher molecular relaxation resultsin lower shrinkage and higher dimensional stability. Inaddition, open structure of draw textured yarn [Figure3.1] also facilitates more exposure of filament to tem-perature in the process and compact core of air tex-tured yarn hinders the exposure of filament to tem-perature in the process.

3.4 Moisture management of textured yarn

Figure 3.6: Drop Absorbency of Textured Yarns.

Figure 3.7: Wicking Rate of Textured yarns.

Moisture management of yarn is its ability to absorbgaseous or liquid humidity from the skin and transportit to the outer surface and release it into the surround-ing air. Moisture management of yarn affects the com-fort level of the wearer, particularly at the high sweat-ing level. Earlier studies have revealed that thetexturising of filament yarn improves their moisturemanagement ability [7]. The moisture management ofyarns is expressed by drop absorbency and wickingrate. The drop absorbency and wicking rate of tex-tured yarns are shown in Figure 3.6 and 3.7 respec-tively. The drop absorbency and wicking rate of air jettextured yarns is lower than draw textured yarns. Thedrop absorbency indicates the wetting behavior of yarn.Drop absorbency (wetting) of air jet textured yarn islower than draw textured yarn due to the reduction ininter-filaments spaces for capillary movement. Thediameter of capillary between the filament is reducedby the compact core of air jet textured yarn and de-layed the moisture absorbency. Whereas, more openstructure of draw textured yarn resulted in higherwetting. The higher wicking of draw textured yarn isalso due to higher wetting as wetting is prerequisitefor wicking [8].

4. ConclusionFilament arrangement is different in draw and air jettextured yarns. The draw textured yarn structure ismore open with crimpy parallel filaments and air jettextured yarn has compact structure with surface loops.Air jet textured yarn has higher bulk, lower strengthand lower extensibility as compared to draw texturedyarn. Dimensional stability and moisture absorptionand transportation characteristics of draw textured yarnare better than air jet textured yarn.

References

1. M. Acar and G.R. Wray, Journal of Text. Institute, 77(1),19-27, (1986).

2. B. Piller, E. Lesykova, 20th International synthetic fi-ber symposium in Dornbirn, September 23-25, (1981).

3. Booth J. E., CBS Publishers Third Edition, (1996)4. Du Pont Technical Information Bulletin, X154, 10,

(1961).5. V. K. Kothari, A. K. Sengupta, R. S. Rengasamy and

B. C. Goswami, Textile Res. Journal, P 317-323(June1989).

6. A Demir, M. Acar, R. Turton, Melliand Int, E 126-128,4/(1988).

7. M Y Gudiyawar, C D Kane, Sultan Soudagar, Chemi-cal Fibres Inte.1,43 (2011)

8. De Borr, J.J, Textile Res. Journal, 50, 624(1980).

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1. IntroductionNatural fibres are also environmentally friendly sincethey are biodegradable and non toxic. Banana fibre isa cellulosic fibre obtained from pseudo stem of ba-nana plant. Banana fibre is a bast fibre obtained fromwaste stalk of banana plant. The outer sheath is tightlycovered by layers of fibre. The fibre is located prima-rily adjacent to the outer surface of the sheath and canbe peeled- off in ribbons of strips [1].

Textile materials are colored to obtain the desired look,appearance and value addition. In ancient times textilematerials were colored by colours derived from natu-ral sources only. But due to invention of syntheticdyestuffs which have advantages over natural dyes likecost factor, color yield; manufactures/processes shiftedtowards synthetic dyestuffs. Today we are movingtowards sustainable processing and hence, natural dyesare getting more importance since their production doesnot require any hazardous chemical reactions to occurunlike synthetic dyestuffs. This gives more impetus toeco-friendly processing of natural dyes on natural fi-bres.

Natural dyes are basically dyes or colorants derivedfrom natural sources like plants, insects and minerals.India has a rich biodiversity so wide range of naturalcoloring raw material is available in India.

Marigold is an ornamental plant. Marigold is a majorsource of cartenoids and Lutein. Marigold flowerswhich are yellow to orange are a rich source of Lutein,a cartenoid pigment [2].

Figure 1.1 Structure of Lutein

Lac is the scarlet resinuous secretion of a number ofspecies of lac insects, of which the most commonlycultivated species is Kerria lacca. Lac dye is based onanthraquinoid type of structure and composed of laccaicacid and erthrolaccin. Laccaic is water soluble com-pound whereas erythrolaccin is water insoluble com-pound[3].

Dyeing of Banana Fibre with Marigold, Lac,Madder and Onion Dyes

M. D. Teli*, Sanket P. Valia & Jignesh S. Mahajan*Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology

Institute of Chemical TechnologyAbstractNowadays people are becoming cautious because of the toxic nature of synthetic dyes and synthetic fibresright from their raw material production to processing. Thus, there is an increasing demand for productsfrom natural sources that use natural fibres and natural dyes. Banana fibres are basically obtained fromwaste stalk of banana pseudo stem. Natural dyes are obtained from vegetables, insects and minerals. Here,in this study an attempt has been made to dye banana fibres with natural dyes like marigold, lac, madderand onion with the help of alum as a mordant. The results indicate that the banana fibres can be dyed withthese natural dyes and dye uptake increases with increase in percentage shade. The dyed samples showedall round good wash and light fastness properties. The results indicate good potential for coloration ofbanana fibres with natural resources.

KeywordsBanana fibres, Marigold, Lac, Madder, Onion, Wash fastness, Light fastness

* All correspondence should be addressed to,Prof. (Dr.) M.D. Teli,Institute of Chemical Technology, Matunga (E),Mumbai-400019, IndiaTel.: +91-022-33612811Email : [email protected]

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Figure 1.2 Strucure of laccaic acid

Madder is natural dyestuff known to us from ancienttimes. Ideal colour was said to come from plants 18 to28 months old that had been grown in calcareous soil,which is full of lime and typically chalky. Dye isobtained from roots of the plant.. Indian madder isanthraquinone based red dye. The most impportantcolorants in madder are the anthraquinones, alizarin,purpuroxanthin, rubiadin, manjistin, purpurin,pseduopurpurin[4].

Figure 1.3: Structure of Alizarin

The dried outer skin of onions can be used for colouringnatural textile fibres. So outer skin of onion which isgenerally thrown away as waste can be used to extractdye. Onions contain phenolics and flavonoids havingpotential to be anti-cholesterol, anticancer and antioxi-dant porperties. Onions peels are rich in tannis whichhave good affinity on textile. Quercetol is the color-ing matter in onion peels[5].

Figure 1.4: Strucutre of Quercetol2. Materials and Methods2.1 MaterialsBanana fibres were provided by Central Institute forResearch on Cotton Technology, Mumbai. Madder andLac were provided by Adiv pure nature in powderform. Marigold flowes and onion skin were also pro-vided by Adiv pure nature.Alum used as the mordantwas of laboratory grade purchased from S. D FineChemicals Ltd.

2.2 Methods2.2.1 Dissolution of MordantA stock solution of alum(20%) was made by dissolv-ing 20g of alum in 100 ml of water. Solution wasfiltered and used for mordanting of fibres.

2.2.2 Extraction of DyeThe marigold flowers were dreid thoroughly. This wasthen grounded in a mixer to a fine powder. A 10%stock solution was prepared by taking 10g of marigoldin a round bottom flask. Solution was heated upto boilin heating mantle under reflux condition for 1hr. After1hr solution was filtered and made to original vol-ume, and used as 10% stock solution for dyeing.

Lac and madder stock solution (10%) of the dyes wereprepared by taking 10g of dry powder in 100 ml waterin round bottom flask. Solution was heated upto boilin heating mantle under reflux condition for 1hr. itwas then filtered and made to original volume, andused as 10% stock solution for dyeing.

The onion peels were dreid completely and were thengrounded in a mixer to a fine powder. A stock solu-tion (10%) was made by taking 10g dry powder in 100ml water. This was boiled for an hour and extract wasfiltered and made upto 100 ml and used for dyeing.

2.2.3 Mordanting and dyeing processesThe mordanting of banana fibres was carried out inRota dyer (Rota Dyer machine, Rossari Labtech,Mumbai) keeping the material to liquor ratio of 1:30.The fabric was introduced into the mordant solution atroom temperature and the temperature was graduallyraised to 850C. The mordanting was continued at thistemperature for 1 hour.After mordanting, the fibreswere squzeed and dyed with lac and marigold dyeextract separately for three diffent shades (10%, 20%and 30%). The dyeing was continued at 850C for 1hr.After dyeing, the fibres were squzeed and washed withcold water.

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3. Testing and Analysis3.1 Colour value by reflectance methodThe dyed samples were evaluated for the depth ofcolour by reflectance method using 10degree observer.The absorbance of the dyed samples was measured onRayscanSpectrascan 5100+ equipped with reflectanceaccessories. The K/S values were determined usingexpression;

K (1-R)2

=S 2R

Where, R is the reflectance at complete opacity; K isthe Absorption coefficient & S is the Scattering coef-ficient. The dyed fabrics were simultaneously evalu-ated in terms of CIELAB colour space (L*, a* and b*)values using the RayscanSpectrascan 5100+. In gen-eral, the higher the K/S value, the higher the depth ofthe colour on the fabric. L* corresponds to the bright-ness (100- white, 0- black), a* corresponds to the red-green coordinate (positive- red, negative -green) andb* corresponds to the yellow-blue coordinate (positive-yellow, negative -blue). As a whole, a combination ofthese entire co-ordinates enables one to understand thetonal variations.

3.2 Evaluation of Wash fastnessEvaluation of colour fastness to washing was carriedout using ISO 105 C03 method. A solution containing5 g/l soap and 2gpl soda solution was used as thewashing liquor for synthetic dyes dyed samples andonly 5g/l soap solution was used as the washing liquorfor natural dyes. The samples were treated for 1hourat 600C. After rinsing and drying, the K/S values ofthese samples were determined and compared with K/S values of the original samples and rating is given.(Rating 1-5, where 1 - poor, 2 - fair, 3 - good, 4 - verygood and 5 - excellent).

3.3 Evaluation of Light FastnessThe light fastness was determined using artificial illu-mination with Tungsten lamp in light Fastness Tester.Samples are attached on black cardboard and kept for17 hours. After that K/S values are find out and com-pared with K/S vales of standard samples, ratings oflight fastness samples. (rating 1-8, where 1 - poor, 2 -fair, 3 -moderate, 4 - good, 5 - better, 6 - very good,7 - best and 8 -excellent).

4. Results and DiscussionThe dyeing of alum mordanted banana fibres using

natural dyes like marigold, lac, madder, and onion wasattempted and these results are summarized in Tables4.1 to 4.4.

The results indicate that with the increase in percent-age shade the K/S values increased showing that thedye have affinity for the fibre. This was observed incase of all the four dyes studied.

It can also be seen that washing fastness varied inrange of 3 to 4 (good to very good). This shows thatthe dye-mordant fibre interaction is good. Also fromthese tables it is seen that the overall light fastnessvaried in the range of 5 to 7 (better to best) for alldyes. This shows that the dyes are stable to photodegradation.

Table 4.1: K/S and fastness values of bleached andmordanted (Alum 20%) banana fibres dyed

with Marigold dye

Sr. Shade FastnessNo. (%) K/S L* a* b* Colour Change

Wash Light

1 10 8.77 54.26 10.85 47.76 3 62 20 13.63 60.52 9.47 54.54 3 73 30 17.14 62.12 7.77 55.12 3 6

Table 4.2: K/S and fastness values of bleached andmordanted (Alum 20%) banana fibres dyed

with Lac dye


Wash Light

1 10 10.36 25.62 24.86 -1.04 3 52 20 17.08 24.93 22.00 -0.30 4 53 30 19.27 24.55 20.45 0.86 4 5

Table 4.3: K/S and fastness values of bleached andmordanted (Alum 20%) banana fibres dyed with

Madder dye


Wash Light

1 10 1.76 37.91 26.32 25.88 3 62 20 2.70 37.01 30.13 26.92 4 63 30 3.24 36.87 32.86 27.73 4 7

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Table 4.4: K/S and fastness values of bleached andmordanted (Alum 20%) banana fibres dyed with

Onion dye


Wash Light

1 10 4.55 80.36 -0.78 35.96 4 72 20 5.73 81.28 -1.01 37.37 4 73 30 10.24 80.17 0.15 38.65 4 7

In terms of CIELAB colour space L* values indicateslightness or brightness. Higher L* values indicatebrighter colour.

From Figure 4.1 for marigold dye, both a* and b*values are found to be positive but b* values are muchhigher than a* values indicating reddish-yellow colouron banana fibre. From Figure 4.2 for lac dye a* valuesare positive and b* values are near to zero indicatingred colour on banana fibre. From Figure 4.3 for mad-der dye both a* and b* values are seen to be positiveindicating reddish-yellow colour on banana fibre. FromFigure 4.4 for marigold dye it can be seen that a*values are negative or near to zero and b* values arepositive indicating greenish yellowish colour on ba-nana fibre.

Figure 4.1: a* v/s b* for Marigold dye

Figure 4.2: a* v/s b* for Lac dye

Figure 4.3: a* v/s b* for Madder dye

Figure 4.4: a* v/s b* for Onion dye

5. ConclusionDyeing of banana fibres was successfully carried outusing marigold, lac, madder and onion dyes. The dyedfibres showed good colour strength. The dye uptakeon banana fibres increased with increase in percentageshade. The dyed banana samples showed satisfactoryfastness properties. Hence, banana fibres can be dyedusing natural dyes.

References1. Mukhopadhyay S., Fangueiro R., Arpaç Y.,

Sentürk, U., Journal of Engineered Fibres andFabrics, 3 (2) 39-45, (2008).

2. Teli M. D., Valia, S. P., and Kolambar, D., Jour-nal of Textile Association, 74 (4) 210-214, (2013).

3. Teli, M. D., Valia, S. P., Kolambar, D., Trivedi,R., and Kamble, M, Journal of Textile Associa-tion, 74 (6) 337-341, (2014).

4. Saxena S. and. Raja A. S. M.," Natural Dyes:Sources, Chemistry, Application and SustainabilityIssues", Textile Science and Clothing Technology,DOI: 10.1007/978-981-287-065-0_2.

5. Teli M.D., Valia S.P., Pradhan C., Journal ofTextile Association, 75 (1) 23-27, (2014).

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1. IntroductionNature provides various colouring matters obtainedfrom vegetables, minerals and animal origin. As evi-dent from the Ajanta and Elora wall paintings, dyeingand painting or printing with natural dyes was a tech-nique prevalent even in the ancient civilization. TheVedas also mentioned red, yellow, blue and black asmain colours and expressed that the ancient craftsmendyed blue from indigo, yellow from turmeric and saf-fron, brown from cutch and red from lac, madder etc[1]. Thus, natural dyes have been an integral part ofhuman life since time immemorial. But with the in-vention of synthetic dyes in 1856 and its subsequentcommercialization the prominence of natural dyes re-ceded because of the known advantages like goodcolour fastness to different agencies, reproducibilityof shades, brilliance of colour, easy to apply etc. ofsynthetic dyes over natural dyes. However, only inrecent past the use of non-toxic and eco-friendly natu-

ral dyes on textiles has become a matter of significantimportance because of the increased environmentalawareness in order to avoid some hazardous syntheticdyes. Technologies associated with dyeing and print-ing of textile with natural dyes has passed throughstages of refinements and sophistications to suit newerdemand [2-8]. However, the use of natural dyes hasmainly been confined to craftsmen, small scale dyersand printers, as well as small scale exporters and pro-ducers dealing with high valued eco-friendly textileproduction and sales. Recently, a number of commer-cial dyers and small textile export houses have startedlooking at the possibilities of exploring natural dyeson regular basis for dyeing and printing of textiles toovercome environmental pollution caused by some ofthe synthetic dyes.

Natural dyes can be applied on various fibres, but ithas a strong affinity for protein fibres viz. silk, wooletc. Traditionally printing with natural dyes is carriedout either by following pre or post mordanting tech-niques. In pre-mordanting process fabric is treated withinorganic salts as mordants followed by printing withnatural dyes, whereas in post-mordanting method dyedfabric is printed with different inorganic salts as mor-dants. Those processes have their own limitations, viz.

Printing of Silk Fabric following SimultaneousMordanting Technique

S Roy Maulik*Department of Silpa-Sadana, Visva-Bharati University, Sriniketan

AbstractSilk fabrics have been printed with colourants extracted from Rubia cordifolia, Madhuca indica, Lacciferlacca, Acacia catechu, Indigofera tinctoria, Punica granatum, Terminalia chebula, Curcuma longa, Camel-lia sinensis, Bixa orellana, Allium cepa, Rheum emodi in absence and in presence of aluminium sulphate,ferrous sulphate and copper sulphate following simultaneous mordanting technique for producing shades ofdifferent colours and also to achieve good overall colour fastness properties of the printed fabrics. Tradi-tional methods of printing with natural dyes have their own limitations i.e. more time consuming process,poor colourfastness to washing, difficult to use print paste containing metal salts in presence of gum after2-3 hrs, difficult to achieve white ground etc. The technique adapted in this study is less time consuming,economical and also helps to produce print paste with better storage stability as compared to the conven-tional printing process.The dyeing and printing with those colourants is found to be effectively accomplished under acidic condi-tion (pH ~ 4.5) in absence of any inorganic salts. Printed fabrics in general show a common light fastnessand wash fastness ratings of 4 and 3 respectively, except Bixa orellana and Curcuma longa. However,aluminium sulphate, ferrous sulphate and copper sulphate when used as mordanting agents produce animprovement in light and washfastness properties of the printed fabrics.

Key wordsEco-friendly, Mordant, Natural dye, Printing, Silk

*All the correspondence should be addressed to,Dr. Shankar Roy Maulik,Assistant Professor - IIIVisva-Bharati (A Central University)Department of Silpa-SadanaSriniketan-731236, District: Birbhum (WB)Email : [email protected]

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more time consuming, poor colourfastness to washing,difficult to use print paste containing metal salts inpresence of gum after 2-3 hrs, difficult to achieve whiteground etc. In this context the present article concernswith the extraction of colourants from different natu-ral sources and to be used for printing on silk fabricfollowing simultaneous mordanting technique with thehelp of block, screen, brush etc. in order to popularizenatural dyes in small scale industrial sectors and alsoto achieve eco-friendly dyed and printed silk fabricsfor the upper segment in the society. Assessment ofcolourfastness to washing, light and rubbing are alsoreported in this study.

2. Materials and methods2.1 Materials2.1.1 Silk FabricLoom state silk fabric having 430 ends/dm and 210picks/dm and weighing 50 gm/m2 on the average ob-tained from the local market was used in the presentstudy.

2.1.2 ChemicalsLaboratory reagent (LR) grade sodium carbonate, 50%

(w/v) hydrogen peroxide, acetic acid, non-silicate sta-bilizer, aluminium sulphate, copper sulphate and fer-rous sulphate were appropriately used in the experi-ments. Olive oil based soap and non-ionic detergent ofcommercial grade were also used.

2.1.3 Natural DyeRubia cordifolia, Madhuca indica, Laccifer lacca,Acacia catechu, Indigofera tinctoria, Punica grana-tum, Terminalia chebula, Curcuma longa, Camelliasinensis, Bixa orellana, Allium cepa and Rheum emodiwere used as natural dyes for printing purpose (Table2.1). Rubia cordifolia, Madhuca indica, Acacia cat-echu, Punica granatum, Terminalia chebula, Camelliasinensis and Allium cepa either purchased or collectedfrom the local market were extracted using water asthe solvent, filtered and the filtrates were then used ascolourants for the printing purpose, whereas Lacciferlacca, Curcuma longa and Indigofera tinctoria wereobtained from M/s ECO-N-VIRON, India, in paste formand Bixa orellana and Rheum emodi were purchasedfrom M/s Alps Industries Ltd, India in powder formand those were used directly without any further ex-traction process.

Table 2.1: Plant, animal parts and its chief colouring compound used as natural dyes

Botanical name Common name Parts used Chief colouring compoundRheum emodi Dolu Root Chrysophanic acid [9]Madhuca indica Mahua Bark Quercetin [10]

DihydroquercetinRubia cordifolia Indian madder Root Purpurin [11]Acacia catechu Khair Stem bark Catechin [10]Terminalia chebula Haritaki/Myrobolan Fruit Elagitannic acid [11]Laccifer lacca Lac Resin Laccaic acid [12]Camellia sinensis Tea Leaves Theaflavin and

Thearubigins [13]Punica granatum Pomegranate Fruit rind Ellagi-tannin-flavogallol [14]Bixa orellana Annatto Pulp (aril) surrounding the seed Bixin and nor-bixin [15]Indigofera tinctoria Indigo Green crop Indigotin [11]Curcuma longa Haldi Rhizome Curcuminoids, Curcumin [11]Allium cepa Onion Outermost dry papery skin Quercetin [16]

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2.2 Methods2.2.1 Degumming and bleachingIn order to remove silk gum or sericin from the loomstate silk fabric, the latter was degummed at 900C for1.5 h in an aqueous solution containing olive oil basedsoap (6g/l) and sodium carbonate (2g/l), followed bybleaching at 800C for a duration of 30 min with hy-drogen peroxide (2 %), non-silicate stabilizer (1%) andsodium carbonate (0.5%) at a fabric-to- liquor ratio of1:20 (w/v) in a thermostatically controlled open bathbeaker dyeing machine. Degummed and bleached fab-ric was washed thereafter at 700C for 10 min, coldwashed and finally dried.

2.2.2 Extraction of natural dyeRubia cordifolia, Madhuca indica, Acacia catechu,Punica granatum, Terminalia chebula, Camelliasinensis and Allium cepa were dried in absence ofdirect sunlight and crushed in powder form if required,with the help of grinder (crusher) before being aque-ous extracted. Aqueous solution of all those colourantswas prepared by adding 100 g of each vegetable mat-ter separately to 1 L of water. The mixture was stirred,heated and kept at boiling point for 60 min in a ther-mostat control beaker dyeing machine, allowed to standfor another 15 min and finally filtered through nylonbolting cloth having 140-200 mesh size. Such filtratewas then used as natural colourants for dyeing andprinting purpose.

2.2.3 Dyeing of silk fabricDegummed and bleached silk fabric was padded withan aqueous solution of natural dyes as specified earlier(except Indigofera tinctoria) in absence and/or pres-ence of different inorganic salts or mordants at 100%wet pick up in a miniature lab model two bowl pad-ding mangle and dried in air. This was followed byprinting as described below.

2.2.4 Printing of silk fabric following simultaneousmordanting techniqueInorganic salts of specified dose level (5 - 10 parts)were mixed with the aqueous solution of natural dyesand kept for 15 min in order to form lake by reactionof the colouring components present in the dyestuffswith the metal ion. Appropriate amount of gum indulkawas then added with the help of high speed stirrer toprepare the printing paste.

Printing of the bleached and/or dyed silk fabrics wasperformed with the help of print paste containing natu-ral dyes, inorganic salts and gum indulka as thickener.

The impressions were made either with the help ofwooden blocks of various designs, screens, stencils,brush etc. After printing the fabrics were dried at roomtemperature, followed by steaming at 1020C for 30min in a cottage steamer. After steaming the printedfabrics were immediately washed with 2 g/l non-ionicdetergent at 600C for 10 min in order to remove thegum and the strong mineral acid (sulphuric acid) pro-duced during the steaming process. After soaping, theprinted fabrics were washed with cold water and fi-nally dried in air.

In case of Indigofera tinctoria, printing paste was pre-pared by mixing specified quantity of Indigoferatinctoria along with sodium nitrite and gum Indulkathickener. The printed colour was developed in a bathcontaining 20 gm/l sulphuric acid and 20 gm/l sodiumsulphate at a temperature of 600C for 10 min and soap-ing of the printed fabric was carried out as describedearlier. Figure 2.2 shows the traditionally printed silkfabrics

Figure 2.2: Eco-friendly printed silk fabric

2.2.5 Assessment of colourfastness to washingColourfastness to wash of silk fabrics printed withnatural dyes as specified in absence and presence ofdifferent inorganic salts was assessed in a launder-o-meter in accordance with a method prescribed in IS105-C10 (2006) [superseding IS: 3361-1984 (ISO-II)].

2.2.6 Assessment of colourfastness to lightColourfastness to light was assessed on a MercuryBulb Tungsten Filament (MBTF) light fastness testerfollowing a method prescribed in IS: 2454 -1985.

2.2.7 Assessment of colourfastness to rubbingThis was determined employing a Crockmeter follow-ing the method as prescribed in IS: 766-1988.

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3. Results and Discussion3.1 Assessment of colourfastness propertiesData for colourfastness to light, wash and rubbing ofsilk fabrics printed with Rubia cordifolia, Madhucaindica, Laccifer lacca, Acacia catechu, Indigoferatinctoria, Punica granatum, Terminalia chebula, Cur-cuma longa, Camellia sinensis, Bixa orellana, Alliumcepa and Rheum emodi in absence and presence ofdifferent inorganic salts viz. aluminium sulphate, cop-per sulphate and ferrous sulphate are reported in Table3.1.

Use of inorganic salts caused a good light fastnessrating of the printed substrates for all the natural dyesexcept Curcuma longa and Bixa orellana. Curcumalonga is very much susceptible to light because theyemit fluorescence [12] and also from the structure ofcurcumin [17] one can say that this dye is not formingmetal-complex with the inorganic salts and hence ex-hibits poor light fastness properties. On the other handthe structure of bixin and nor-bixin [15] resemble moreof an acid dye than a mordant dye in view of the lackof functional group present in the structure of bixinand nor bixin in a position close enough to allow for-mation of complex as would otherwise expected incase of mordant dye.

Use of inorganic salts caused a common improved lightfastness rating of the printed substrates for all thenatural dyes (except few) used in this study. Aluminiumand iron with their good complex forming ability [18]

can hold two or more suitable dye molecules togetherto form insoluble large complex, which enhanced thelight fastness of the printed substrates [19, 20]. Suchcomplexation of the coloured component within thefibre structure leads to polymerization of the dyemolecules which is also responsible for improved lightfastness rating [21, 22]. The chromophore in thosecases may be protected from photochemical oxidationby forming a complex with the metal.

Colourfastness to light for silk printed with annatto inabsence of any salts improves by one point scale uponapplication of ferrous sulphate. This may be due to thedeposition of complex of tannin (which is reported tobe associated with bixin and nor-bixin) and iron on thesubstrates.

The rating for colourfastness to washing of printedsilk fabric in presence of aluminium, copper and fer-rous sulphate commonly produces good results. Im-provement in such colourfastness to washing ratingmay be attributed due to the formation of insolublelarge complex formed by the colouring componentpresent in the dyes and the metal ions within the fibre.Moderate wash fastness rating in case of Curcumalonga and Bixa orellana may be attributed due to theformation of weak dye fibre interaction. A commonexcellent rubbing fastness property indicates very littledeposition of dyes on the surface of the fabrics at theend of the printing process.

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Table 3.1: Colour fastness to wash, light and rubbing

Colour fastness to washingNatural dyes Mordants used Change in Staining on Colour fastness Colour fastness to

Colour Cotton to light rubbingRheum emodi Nil 3 4 4 4

Al2(SO)3 4 4 5 4CuSO4 4 4 5 4FeSO4 4 3-4 5-6 4

Madhuca indica Nil 3 4-5 3 4Al2(SO)3 4 4-5 4 4CuSO4 4 4-5 4 4FeSO4 4 4 4-5 4

Terminalia chebula Nil 3 4 4 4Al2(SO)3 4 4 4-5 4CuSO4 4 4 5 4FeSO4 4 4 5-6 3-4

Bixa orellana Nil 2-3 4 2 4Al2(SO)3 3 4 2-3 4CuSO4 3 4 2-3 4FeSO4 3 4 3 4

Indigofera tinctoria Nil 4 4 5-6 4-5Curcuma longa Nil 2-3 3-4 1-2 3-4

Al2(SO)3 3 3-4 2 4CuSO4 3 3-4 2 4FeSO4 3 3-4 2 4

Rubia cordifolia L. Nil 3-4 4 4 4-5Al2(SO)3 4 4 5 4-5CuSO4 4 4 5 4-5FeSO4 4 4 5 4-5

Acacia catechu Nil 3 4 4 4-5Al2(SO)3 4 4 4-5 4-5CuSO4 4 4 5 4-5FeSO4 4 4 5 4

Allium cepa Nil 3-4 4 3-4 4Al2(SO)3 4 4 4 4-5CuSO4 4 4 5 4-5FeSO4 4 4 4-5 4

Camellia sinensis Nil 4 4-5 5 4Al2(SO)3 4 4-5 5-6 4CuSO4 4 4 6 4-5FeSO4 4 4 6 4

Laccifer lacca Kerr. Nil 3-4 4 4 4-5Al2(SO)3 4 4 5 4-5CuSO4 4 4 5 4-5FeSO4 4 4 5 4

Punica granatum L Nil 3-4 3 - 4 3-4 4Al2(SO)3 4 4 4-5 4CuSO4 4 4 5 4-5FeSO4 4 4 - 5 5 4

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5. ConclusionPrinting with natural dyes in a more scientific andeconomical ways is one of the most important researchareas in the field of textiles. Traditional method in-volves printing with natural dyes on pre-mordantedfabric or printing with mordants on the dyed fabricsi.e. post-mordanting techniques. But those processeshave their own limitations, viz. more time consuming,poor colourfastness to washing, difficult to use printpaste containing metal salts in presence of gum after2-3 hrs, difficult to achieve white ground etc.

Printing of silk fabric with Rubia cordifolia, Madhucaindica, Laccifer lacca, Acacia catechu, Indigoferatinctoria, Punica granatum, Terminalia chebula, Ca-mellia sinensis, Allium cepa, Rheum emodi is found tobe effectively accomplished when aluminium sulphate,copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate used asmordanting agents following simultaneous mordantingtechnique. Use of such inorganic salts commonly pro-duces improved light and washfastness rating of theprinted substrates. The technique adapted in this studyis less time consuming, economical and also helps toproduce print paste with better storage stability ascompared to the conventional printing process. Theoverall results indicate that majority of the natural dyesused in this study can be effectively utilized for pro-ducing eco-friendly printed fabrics used for appareland home furnishing just by adding designs and colorsto them. But it is very much essential to select appro-priate inorganic salts and also to maintain proper pro-portion of colourants and inorganic salts in the printpaste. Excess of dye beyond the limit may cause tint-ing on the white ground whereas excess amount ofinorganic salts than the desired level particularly incase of copper sulphate whose indicative maximumpermissible limit in the ultimate product is 50 ppm[11] and 0.5 ppm in effluent water [23] will increasein pollution load. These dyes have good scope in com-mercial printing in small scale industries of silk givingwide range of colours in conjugation with metal mor-dants following simultaneous mordanting techniques.

References1. Teli M.D., Valia S.P., and Venkatram S., Asian

Dyer, 11(1), 24, (2014).2. Gulrajani M.L., Production of silk; Chemical

processing of silk, Department of Textile Tech-nology, Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi, 1,(1993).

3. Roy Maulik S., Das D., and Bhattacharya S.C.,Journal of Textile Institute, 102 (2), 131, (2011).

4. Roy Maulik S., Das D., and Bhattacharya S.C.,Journal of Textile Institute, 102 (6), 491, (2011).

5. Roy Maulik S., International Conference on En-vironment and its impact on society, J D BirlaInstitute, Kolkata, 114, (2013).

6. Roy Maulik S., and Bhowmik L., InternationalConference on Environment and its impact onsociety, J D Birla Institute, Kolkata, 110, (2013).

7. Roy Maulik S., and Biswas P., Asian Dyer, 8 (2),48, (2011).

8. Roy Maulik S., and Mandal S., Asian Dyer, 7 (2),49, (2010).

9. Das D., Ray Maulik S., and Bhattacharya S.C.,Indian J Fibre Text Res, 33 (2), 163, (2008).

10. Gokhale S.B., Tatiya A.U., Bakliwal S.R., andFursule R.A., Nat Prod Rad, 3 (4), 228, (2004).

11. Gulrajani M.L., Indian J Fibre Text Res, 26 (3&4),191, (2001).

12. Gulrajani M.L., and Gupta D.B., Natural Dyesand Their Application to Textiles, Indian Instituteof Technology, New Delhi, (1992).

13. Das D., Bhattacharya S.C., and Roy Maulik S.,Int J Tea Sci, 4 (3&4), 17, (2005).

14. Das D., Bhattacharya S.C., and Roy Maulik S.,Indian J Fibre Text Res, 31 (4), 559, (2006).

15. Gulrajani M.L., Gupta D. and Roy Maulik S.,Indian J Fibre Text Res, 24 (2), 131, (1999).

16. Roy Maulik S., and Bhowmik L., Man Made TextIndia, 49 (4), 142, (2006).

17. Gulrajani M.L., Gupta D.B., Agarwal V., and JainM., Indian Text J, 102 (1), 50, (1992).

18. Lee J.D., Concise Inorganic Chemistry, BlackwellScience Ltd. (1996).

19. Gupta D., Fastness Properties of Dyed Textiles:Natural Dyes and Their Application to Textiles,Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi, 99,(1992).

20. Allen N.S, Rev Prog Col, 17, 61, (1987).21. Oakes J, Rev Prog Col, 31, 21, (2001).22. Oakes J and Dixon S, Rev Prog Col, 34, 110,

(2004).23. Mukherjee A, Man Made Textiles India, 49 (6),

222, (2006)

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1. IntroductionNatural plants possess abundant beneficial character-istics which are useful to the well-being of mankind.Especially, neem and bamboo are natural plants whichhave many numbers of beneficial characteristics. Whencertain plant's parts like stem, leaves, outer layer con-verted into charcoal, it was proved in the previousresearches that they acquire enhanced beneficial char-acteristics. In one of the research works, it was re-vealed that the warmth retention, vapour permeabilityand water-absorption properties are improved in bam-boo charcoal treated polyester knitted fabric [1]. Al-ready bamboo-based charcoal fibres are being used intextiles in countries like Japan and China, to gain betterthermal and breathing properties and to reduce thedevelopment of odours through sweating [2]. Becauseof this reason, the bamboo charcoal fabrics are gainingmore importance and are widely used by people forgetting the benefits out it.

It is to be noted that the availability of bamboo char-coal fibres, yarns and fabrics are limited and only from

a few parts of the world. Another concerning factor isthe cost which is very high when compared with theregular fibres, yarns and fabrics. Similar to bamboo,the neem plant's leaves, seed, bark, etc, in one form orthe other provide certain functional characteristics [3].Dubey, Harish Kumar and Pandey observed that neemextracts are widely used by the Indian farmers to pro-tect cotton crop from pests and fungi, and thus havepotential as antibacterial agents for textiles [4]. It wasrevealed that the neem-chitosan composite treatedcotton fabrics showed an increased antimicrobial ac-tivity [5]. As a step ahead in the research, the neemparts were converted in to charcoal and were studied.A study reports that the powder of neem leaves whenconverted into activated carbon by chemical activationhas a tremendous potential as an industrial low-costeffective adsorbent [6]. Sutapa Chakrabarty et al. havefound that the neem-stem charcoal to be an efficientadsorbent for purifying the contaminated drinking water[7]. Adsorption characteristics of Methylene blue wereanalysed using activated neem carbon and by usingcommercial coconut shell adsorbent by Alau et al. [8].

Neem is a plant growing abundantly in India. Hencein this line, a new idea came up to utilize neem plant'sparts and study the effect of its usage. As a new ap-proach, in order to get the required properties in the

Neem Charcoal Particles - Production and Size Analysisfor Further Applications

G. Gunasekaran1, S. Periyasamy2 & C. V. Koushik1

1Department of Fashion Technology, Sona College of Technology2PSG College of Technology

AbstractThe natural plants like neem and bamboo have unique beneficial characteristics that are very useful to thehuman being which has been proved in the previous research studies. The bamboo charcoal is havingproperties such as anti-bacterial, moisture management, thermal regulation, breathable, absorption andemission of far infrared energy, anti-static, self cleaning, de-odouring, etc. Hence the bamboo charcoalfabrics are gaining more importance and are widely used by people to get the above mentioned beneficialproperties. In this line, a new idea came up to prepare the neem charcoal particles, to be applied on thefabrics for further research. The nanotechnology helps to acquire beneficial characteristics to that materialand the user as the particle size become small. Hence, a new approach was evolved for the preparation ofneem charcoal and its particles in very small size and in further research to apply it in the form of finishon fabrics to study its effect on important properties of fabrics. As a part of this work, the neem charcoalparticles were produced to the size of 370.8 nm. The neem charcoal particles were characterized for theirparticle size and particle size distribution using Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) technique.

KeywordsCharacterisation, charcoal, neem charcoal, particles, size distribution

*All correspondence should be addressed to,Prof. G. GunasekaranAssociate Professor & Head Department of Fashion TechnologySona College of Technology TPT Main Road Salem -636 005Email: [email protected]

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fabrics similar to bamboo charcoal, the neem woodwas converted into charcoal and to be applied on thefabrics under further scope, to investigate whether anyimprovement in the mentioned properties were thereor not. With the invention of nano technology, as theparticle size becoming smaller and smaller, the mate-rial gains enhanced beneficial properties. This paperdeals with a part of the above research work and con-tains the initial portions of this new attempt. The neemcharcoal particles were produced in a simple methodwhich was dealt with in detail with relevant illustra-tions. The neem charcoal particles were characterizedfor the average particle size, particle size distributionby using Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) technique.

2. Production of neem charcoal particlesThe neem charcoal particles production involves twostages, the first stage contains the preparation of neemcharcoal and the second stage involves the conversionof the charcoal into very small particles.

2.1 Preparation of neem charcoalThe wooden stem portion of neem also known asAzadirachta indica is taken for the study. In TamilNadu state it is given the local name 'Vembu'. Since noprevious references are available for the production ofneem charcoal, the procedure for the preparation ofbamboo charcoal is taken as a guideline for producingthe neem charcoal. In large scale production the bam-boo wood will be converted into charcoal at a tem-perature of 800°C using a kiln. But for our researchwork purpose which is done at a small scale level, asimple method of producing charcoal was adopted asper the literature survey in a previous work [9]. Thewooden pieces from the neem plant of 5 years or olderwere selected for this work. The required quantity ofmatured, raw neem pieces were cut into small piecesof size 0.7 cm × 0.7 cm × 10 cm. They were dried inshadow for a period of two weeks. The fully driedneem pieces were shown in Figure 2.1. Then they werecarbonised in a flash-and-fire-point instrument as shownin Figures 2.2 to 2.4.

Figure 2.1: Dry neem sticks in container

Figure 2.2: Container with lid-closed

Figure 2.3: White smoke emerging from the container

Figure 2.4: Yellow smoke emerging from the container

Figure 2.5: Neem charcoal

The fully dried neem sticks prepared as per the dimen-sion mentioned were placed inside a metallic containerand placed in the flash-and-fire-point instrument asshown in Figure 2.1. The container is closed with a lidwith small openings, to create a low-oxygen environ-ment inside the container (condition required for char-

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ring the bamboo wood) and also to allow smoke andgases to come out as depicted in Figure 2.2. Initially,the temperature was set at 120°C and the speed ofcarbonisation was observed to be slow. The tempera-ture was then raised gradually from 120°C to 260°C.After about 15 minutes, white smoke appeared to comeout as shown in Figure 2.3. This lasted for about fiveminutes and then a yellowish gas is emerging from thecontainer which is illustrated in Figure 2.4, signallingthe conversion of neem to neem-charcoal. The con-tainer was then removed from the instrument and theneem-charcoal was allowed to cool at room tempera-ture. The neem-charcoal pieces, shown in Figure 2.5,were used to prepare the charcoal particles.

2.2 Conversion of charcoal in to neem charcoal par-ticlesA high-energy ball mill was used to produce the char-coal particles adopting the top-down method. The ballmill consists of an air-tight bowl made up of temperedsteel, operated at a speed of 300 rpm. It also has ballsand a rotating supporting disc. The grinding bowl andthe supporting disc rotate in opposite directions, sothat the resulting centrifugal forces act alternately inone direction and then in the opposite direction. Duringthe manufaturing process, the grinding bowl, the ballsin the mill and the material to be ground i.e. the char-coal pieces are acted upon by the centrifugal forcesdue to the rotation of the grinding bowl and the rotat-ing supporting disc. The frictional effect thus producedreduces the charcoal pieces eventually to particles [10].The process of producing charcoal micro particles tookabout the time duration of 12 hours carried out atroom temperature.

3. Characterisation of charcoal micro-particlesTo predict the particle size and the particle size distri-bution of the neem charcoal particles, thecharacterisation of the charcoal particles was per-formed. The Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) tech-nique of characterising the neem charcoal particles wasemployed for the purpose. The test was conductedunder the following conditions and particulars.

Temperature : 25.10CDuration : 70 sec.Dispersant name : WaterDispersant RI : 1.330Material RI : 1.59Viscosity (mPa.s) : 0.8872Material Absorbtion : 0.010Count Rate (kcps) : 195.1

Measurement Position (mm) : 4.65Cell Description : Disposable

sizing cuvetteAttenuator : 11

In this process, the particle size distribution of thepowder is determined by a laser diffraction methodwith a multiple scattering technique. The charcoalpowder was dispersed in de-ionised water and kept inan ultrasonic vibrator in order to get a homogenoussolution. The experiment was carried out in computercontrolled particle size analyzer [ZETA Sizer Ver.6.32(Malvern Instruments Ltd.)] to find out the particlesize and distribution. The results from the testing in-strument for the neem charcoal particles are depictedin Table 3.1.

Table 3.1: Particle characterisation results for neemcharcoal particle size

Peak No. Particle Size % Intensity Width(nm) (nm)

Peak1 370.8 100.0 27.16Peak2 0.000 0.0 0.000

Figure 3.1: Neem charcoal particle sizedistribution by intensity

Table 3.2: Neem charcoal particle size distribution byZeta potential

Peak No. Mean (mV) Area (%) Width (mV)Peak1 - 14.7 100.0 5.33Peak2 0.000 0.0 0.000Peak3 0.000 0.0 0.000

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Figure 3.2: Neem charcoal particle size distribution byZeta potential

The neem charcoal particle size distribution is depictedin Tables 3.1, 3.2 and illustrated in Figures 3.1 and3.2. The results (Figure 3.1) show that the neem char-coal particles measure the size 370.8 nm at 100 %intensity. In Figure 3.1, the particle size distribution isgraphically illustrated by the average particle size atvarious intensity %. The particle size distribution isfound to be higher at 2 intensity levels which are rep-resented by 2 peaks in the distribution diagram. It wasobserved that the size of the charcoal particle lies inthe range from 310 to 420 nm. The size d.nm as rep-resented in the Table 3.1 is nothing but the nanometer(nm) which was reported as d.nm in the result directlyprinted from the instrument.

In Figure 3.2, the particle distribution is illustrated asthe Zeta potential (mV) with respect to the total countof the particles represented by a curve. The particledistribution is found to be prominent at three Zetapotential levels which are represented by the curve inthe distribution diagram. It was noted that the maxi-mum count of the particles (250000) is observed at theZeta potential of - 14.7 mV and the zeta deviation isfound to be 5.33. The Zeta potential is noted to bemore prominent in the region from 0 to -35 mV.

4. ConclusionThe natural plant neem has certain unique characteris-tics which are beneficial to the well-being of humanbeing. The neem charcoal can be produced in a smallscale and in a simple way by using a flash-and-fire-point instrument at a temperature of 2600C over a periodof 20-25 minutes in a low-oxygen environment. Theaverage particle size and the particle size distributionof the neem charcoal particle produced can be anlysedthrough the characterization of the particles by Dy-namic Light Scattering (DLS) technique. The neemcharcoal particles measure the size 370.8 nm at 100 %intensity. The particle size ranges from 300 to 500 nm.

The particle distribution is represented by Zeta poten-tial at various total counts of the charcoal particles bymeans of a curve. The maximum total count of theneem charcoal particles (250000) lies at the Zeta po-tential of - 14.7mV with the prominent distributionfrom 0 to 35 mV.

5. Scope for further researchThe neem charcoal particles prepared may be appliedas a finish on fabrics to study certain important char-acteristics such as anti-bacterial, wicking, water vapourpermeability, thermal conductivity, etc. to find out theeffect of the finish on these properties.

AcknowledgementThe authors like to extend their heartiest thanks to Mr.A. Sivaramakrishnan, P. Ranjithkumar and J. Rajkumarfor their assistance in the experimental part of thisresearch work.

References

1. Wang Qi, HE Shu-cai & MA Li-jun., ShanghaiTextile Sci & Technol, 11, 54-55, (2006).

2. Lin CM, Chang CW., Textile Res J, 78 (7), 555-560, (2008).

3. Girish K, Shankara Bhat S., Electronic J Biol-ogy, 4(3), 102-111, (2008).

4. Dubey RC, Harish Kumar RR, Pandey., J Ameri-can Sci, 5(5), 17-24, (2009).

5. Rajendran R, Radhai R, Balakumar C., J Engi-neered Fibers and Fabrics, 7, 136 - 141, (2012).

6. Ghanshyam Pandhare, Dawande SD., Int J AdvEngineering Technol, IV, 61 - 62, (2013).

7. Sutapa Chakrabarty, Sarma HP., Int J Chem TechRes, 2, 511 - 516, (2012).

8. Alau KK, Gimba CE, Kagbu JA, Nale BY., Ar-chives of Applied Sci Res, 2 (5), 451 - 455, (2010).

9. Junji Takano, www.pyroenergen.com/articles/how-to-make-bamboo-charcoal.htm, (2013).

10. http://www.fritsch.de❑ ❑ ❑

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Textsmile

Teacher : 'Sam, what is the outside of a treecalled?'

Sam : 'I don't know.'Teacher : 'Bark, Sam, bark.'Sam : 'Bow, wow, wow!'


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1. IntroductionButtons are small instruments use to fasten two partsof a garment. It is an element that makes the differ-ence and enhances a men's or women's garment, aleather item, a pair of jeans or even non apparel items.Elegant and classical buttons means a unique style;perfectly shaped and allow the wearer's personality tostand out, enhancing a garment, a leather item, jeansor other secondary articles.

Button is a small round disc usually attached to anarticle of apparel or garment in order to secure anopening, or for decorative ornamentation. Buttoning isdone by sliding the button through a fabric with rein-forced slit called button hole or thread loop [1]*.Buttons are fashionable because these decorate andenhance the look of garments and related accessories.

Figure 1.1: Buttons

1.1 Button holesButton holes are used for insertion and holding thebuttons that are purposeful for locking as well as re-taining the buttons. Button holes can be made by handwith the use of button hole stitches or even a utilitysewing machine be put to use [2]. Button holes oftenhave a bar tack at either end that is a perpendicularstitch for the reinforcement of the open ends of a buttonhole. Button hole size is the length from the bar to barbut if the inside cut is too big or too small, the button-hole cut can restrict button to slide in or easily slip outof buttonhole. Appropriate button hole opening is de-cided as button size (L) + button thickness. The vari-ables related to the button hole include size of button,shape of button, style of button, stitch density, shape& dimensions of the button hole itself [3].

1.2 History and Origin of ButtonsDuring the ancient Indus Valley civilization (circa 2800-2600 BC) and Bronze Age sites in China (circa 2000-1500 BC), beads were found to be in use to fastenbody covering materials like hide and fur. Beads wereused as ornaments for their decorative and symbolicvalue rather than the fasteners but gradually the usemodified to fasten layers of materials one over theother. The term is derived from the French word, but-ton meaning a 'round object'. The earliest known but-ton was originally used more as an ornament than asa fastening and the earliest known button was beingfound at Mohenjo-Daro in the Indus Valley. It wasmade up of a curved shell and about 5000 years old.Early buttons usually consisted of a decorative flatface that fit into a loop but reinforced buttonholes

Effect of Various Process Variables on Button PulloutStrength of ButtonsShelly Khanna* & Amandeep Kaur

Fashion & Apparel Engineering Dept., The Technological Institute of Textiles & Sciences,

AbstractThe paper aims at the elucidation of the effect of process variables for button attachment for apparels asMen's attire. A number of sewing threads of variable compositions, hand and machine needles along withbutton varieties were taken for the study to highlight the impact of hand and machine sewing operations onthe performance of button attachment in terms of button pull strength. The modes and work done for buttondetachment have also been investigated, that is ought to be one of the prime area of concern for the garmenttechnologists to produce quality apparels.

KeywordsApparels, button attachment, detachment, garment technologists, machine sewing and needles

*All the correspondence should be addressed to,Shelly Khanna,Assistant professor,Fashion & Apparel Engineering Dept., The Technological Instituteof Textiles & Sciences, Bhiwani, Haryana.Email: [email protected]

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weren't invented until the mid-13th century. Functionalbuttons with button-holes for fastening or closing cloth-ing appeared first in Germany in the 13th century.These soon became widespread with the rise of snugfitting garments in 13thand 14th century in Europe.Since, that time the buttons have evolved both for thedecorative and functional objectives as well [4].

Buttons are mostly used in all classes of men's, women'sand kid's garments, as skirts, shirts, trousers, leatheritems, a pair of jeans, school bags, blouses, tops, T-shirts and home decor articles as cushion covers, pil-low covers, blanket & quilt covers. Accessories ashandbags, trendy footwear, headgears also exploit theuse of decorative buttons. The selection of the buttonsdepends on the garment style, cost and care of thegarments. The various types of the buttons are- shankbutton, two hole button, plastic button, resin buttonand wooden button [5].

Alloy Button Coconut Button Metal Button

Plastic Button Resin Button Wooden Button

Figure1.2: Button types

1.3 Importance of Button AttachmentThe style of button attachment on garments variesaccording to the gender of person as for Men's gar-ments, left over right and for women's apparels; rightover left arrangement is performed [6]. The perfor-mance of the garment depends on the seams and stitchesused for joining the different components of the gar-ments. Along with this, the utility of the apparels alsoget affected by the trims and components used in them[7]. Thus, the trim such as buttons is important forstudy to determine the performance of the whole gar-ment and the buttons as well [8].

1.4 Button Attaching MechanismButtons can be attached by two main mechanisms asmanual attachment and machine attachment. In manualbutton attaching mechanism, buttons are attached withhands with the use of a number of running stitches. Inthis mechanism, buttons are attached by with the helpof button attachment machines. In this machine, fabricis stationary during each button cycle, but needle movesand perform every attachment action. The fabric isplaced for a single button attachment in conventionalbutton attaching machines, but in automatic buttonattaching machines, the fabric is provided with amovement for sequential button attachment. The but-ton attachment machine is without any conventionalpresser foot, feed dog & throat plate. But all thesecomponents are replaced with button clamp holder &slider plate or spacer plate, that is used with a rectan-gular slit for needle movement in place of conven-tional slot because it provides more space for needlemovement or needle penetration at the time of buttonattachment on the fabric surface. The variables affect-ing the performance of button attachment is a crucialarea to be explored for seeking the potential benefitsof trim attachment but fewer studies have been con-ducted on the same.

This paper aimed at exploring the effects of differentvariables as sewing threads, sewing needles and but-ton types on button pullout strength performance ofvarious types of buttons with the comparative analysisof hand and machine sewing operations. Also, the modeof button detachment had been investigated at the in-stant of button failure. This was followed by the de-signing of a Men's shirt by using the interpreted re-sults.

2. Materials and Methods2.1 MaterialsPolyester/viscose blended (65/35) plain woven shirt-ing fabric was used for the work with GSM 120, EPI86, PPI 80 and thickness 0.00174 mm. Four types ofsewing threads with different compositions and prop-erties were undertaken for the work namely 100%Cotton, Poly-cotton core spun, Poly-poly core spunand 100% Polyester threads. The sewing thread speci-fications and properties are listed in Tables 2.1 & 2.2.Two sets of hand sewing needles with needle numbers7 & 8 (N-7 & N-8) and two machine sewing needleswith specifications as Organ- TQ 90/14 & Organ- TQ100/16 (N-14 & N- 16) were chosen. Four variationsof buttons as Small, Rectangle, Gilly and Red-Greenhad been worked upon with the details mentioned in

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2.2 MethodThe work was carried out with hand as well as ma-chine sewing by using three process variables namely4 types of sewing threads, 4 classes of buttons and 2sets of sewing needles for each type of operation. Askilled operator was engaged for hand sewing of but-tons and a dedicated button attaching machine (JukiMB-372) with a cylinder bed, class 100 (STCS), SPI-12 and two stitch cycles was used. A ComputerizedButton Snap Pull-Out tester (button pull strength test-ing) - ASTM D4551-09e1 (Figure 2.1 a, b & c) [9]was employed to evaluate the performance of the buttonattachment in terms of button pull or breaking loadmeasured in kilograms (force). Also, buttons were testedinitially for diameter and thickness with Vernier Cali-per. All sets of sewing threads were tested for straighttensile strength, loop strength and knot strength.

(A)Figure 2.1: a, b c Computerized Button

Snap Pull-Out tester

Table 2.3.Table 2.1: Sewing Thread Specifications

Sr. no. Thread Types Tex No. of Plies Twist TPI1. 100% Cotton (C) 27 2 Z 6.52. 100% Polyester (P) 24 2 Z 6.23. Poly-Cotton Core Spun (P-C) 30 2 Z 7.64. Poly-Poly Core Spun (P-P) 26 2 Z 5.8

Table 2.2: Sewing Thread properties

Sr. Thread Tensile Strength CV% Elongation Loop strength CV% Knot Strength CV%no. types (kgs) (kgs) (kgs)1. C 0.665 3.93 0.80 1.17967 20.65 0.5798 5.842. P 0.991 6.58 1.08 1.3815 6.91 0.8972 12.883. P-C 1.863 2.23 1.73 2.322 6.34 1.01742 6.474. P-P 0.951 3.78 0.89 1.1694 6.56 0.55432 9.99

Table 2.3: Button specifications

Sr. no. Button Types Diameter Thickness (mm)(1mm = 0.443296L)

1. Small 4L 2.5 mm2. Rectangle 5L 2.5 mm3. Gilly 5L 2.5 mm4. Red- Green 5L 2.5 mm

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(B)

(C)3. Results and Discussion3.1 Effect of sewing threads type and needle finenesson button pull-out strength for Machine and Handstitching operationsThe Poly-cotton core spun sewing threads have giventhe highest strength for all the needle numbers andalso for both hand and machine operations. Also, the100% cotton sewing threads have shown the minimumstrength due to the inherent low strength of the threads.The cotton sewing threads are followed by 100% poly-ester and poly-poly core spun threads as shown inFigures 3.1 and 3.2. No significant effect has beenobserved on the button pull strength of the needlenumber for any thread and button type. This might bedue to the reason that the needle sizes are compatiblewith the holes of the buttons and no needle breakageshad been encountered.

Figure 3.1: Button pull strength of buttons sewn withmachine needles

Figure 3.2: Button pull strength of buttons sewn withhand needles

3.2 Effect of operation type on button pull strengthfor different sewing threads with various needle typesFor comparing the efficiency and consistency of themode of operation, the results have been constricted toone needle type for each operation i.e. Needle no. 14for machine sewing and Needle no. 8 for hand sewing.The hand sewn results are poor in comparison to themachine button attachment. This is mainly due to theinconsistency of the work and depends mainly on theoperator' skill. Also, the index of variability is veryhigh for the hand operations for all the button typesand all sets of sewing threads as detailed in Figure 3.3.

Figure 3.3: Effect of sewing operation on button pullstrength of various buttons

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4. ConclusionThe button shape and size have a great impact on thebutton pull through strength as the size of the buttonsgets too small or too big; the effectiveness of the buttonattachment reduces. The type and size of sewing threadgreatly affects the performance of button attaching,the compatibility of the sewing thread size, needle sizeand button holes of sew- through buttons is an impor-tant consideration. The Poly cotton -core spun sewingthreads had shown the highest pull through strengthamong all the chosen sewing threads due to the high-est tex size and also with the highest tenacity. The sizeof the needle had shown very little effect on the buttonattachment performance for both the hand and ma-chine sewing. The mode of button attachment is alsoimportant with respect to the durability of the stitchesagainst being pulled off and also, the consistency ofbutton attachment is important. Due to these reasons,machine button attachment is preferred over the manualattachment because of the lesser variability of the at-tachment process. The mode of failure of button at-tachment had been observed as sewing thread failure,full as well as partial button breakage, fabric pullingout and combined button and thread breakage as shownin Figure 4.1. Small buttons attached with Poly-cottoncore spun sewing threads have shown the maximumbutton pull through strength with the least degree ofvariation, needle number 14 on the button attachingmachine was used for the final production of the Men'sshirt as shown in Figure 4.2

Figure 4.1: Mode of button detachment

Figure 4.2: End product: Men's shirt

References

1. http://www.teonline.com/knowledge-centre/trims-closures-accessories.html.

2. http://www.craftsy.com.3. www.ChinaTrimmings.com.4. Stewart J., 'The simple, humble, surprisingly sexy

button' (2012, June 14) Retrieved 2014, August26http://www.slate.com/articles/life/design/2012/06/button_history_a_visual_tour_of_button_design_through_the_ages_.html.

5. http://www.ykkfastening.com/products/types/t_snap_button.html.

6. Benjamin R., 'Why Are Men's and Women's But-tons on Opposite Sides' (2010, July 06) Retrieved2014, December 25 fromhttp://www.livescience.com/32681-why-are-mens-and-womens-buttons-on-opposite-sides.html.

7. Carr H and Latham B., 'Garment accessories andenhancements', Technology of Clothing Manufac-ture, 4th edition, Ed. David J. Tyler, BlackwellPublishing Ltd., UK, 193, (2008).

8. http://www.artofmanliness.com/2012/06/28/sew-ing-on-a-button.

9. http://www.globetexindustries.in/laboratory-test-ing-fabric-testing instruments.html.

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The Textile Association (India)

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1. BackgroundThe prospects of microbiology in the textile sector is rising these days dueto the wide range of products which can be obtained using controlledindustrial fermentation technology. In the beginning, the concept of micro-biology in textiles was only confined to the antimicrobial fabrics whereinthe fabrics are finished with antimicrobial agents and then tested for theefficiency against microorganisms that cause skin infections. However, intoday's scenario of textile research, many microorganisms have provedbeneficial to mankind by generating products such as microbial enzymes,colourants etc. have also gained tremendous importance in the textile wetprocessing and dyeing sectors. Thus, microbiology holds an importantposition in textiles in three major areas viz. microbial enzymes, microbialcolourants and antimicrobial textiles.The conventional textile wet processes and dyeing involves the use ofsolutions of concentrated sodium hydroxide, surfactants and chelators atboiling temperatures. These chemicals, after use, are discharged into thenearby freshwater reserves as effluent. This leads to contamination of thefresh water making it unfit for human consumption. Moreover, these chemi-cals damage the outer mucus layer that coats the fishes protecting themfrom parasitic bacteria, fungi and protozoa. In addition, these processesrequires a high energy input, generate a large amount of biochemical andchemical oxygen demand. On the fabric level, oxidative damage may takeplace resulting in reduced tensile strength of the fabric. To prevent anydamage to the ecosystem, it is important to minimize the use of traditionalchemicals in the various stages of textile processing.Synthetic dyes have been extensively used in the textile industries due totheir ease and cost-effectiveness in synthesis, high stability towards light,temperature and technically advanced colours covering the whole colourspectrum. However, this has resulted in the discharge of large amount ofhighly coloured waste water that not only affects water transparency inwater bodies but also creates problems for photosynthetic plants and algaesince light absorption is hindered by synthetic dyes. In addition, manysynthetic dyes are toxic, mutagenic and carcinogenic leading to severalhuman health problems. Thus, inclusion of microbial products like en-zymes and colourants in the textile wet processes is the need of the hour.2. Why Microbial Products?In spite of the availability of variety of plant and animal based enzymesand colourants, using plants and animals in production of enzymes andcolourants is not sustainable due to their low yields, production beingseasonal and large scale destruction of species which in turn affects thebiodiversity. Hence, there is an ever-growing interest in the microbialproducts due to the several reasons like their natural character, safety touse, production using fermentation and being independent of seasons andwith a predictable yield. Some of the microbial dyes have inherent anti-bacterial properties, so the textiles dyed with the microbial dyes will giveantimicrobial properties along with the dyeing. Moreover microbial cul-

Dr. Madhura P. Nerurkar

She is the founder of CalanthaBiotech Pvt. Ltd.- a researchbased laboratory that providesantimicrobial testing services intextiles, polymers, foods andmany other products and con-ducts research on microbialproducts like colourants, en-zymes and polysaccharides.

She has pursued her PhD. inbiotechnology at the Depart-ment of Fibres and Textile Pro-cessing Technology from Insti-tute of Chemical Technology,Mumbai under the guidance ofDr. Ravindra Adivarekar posther MSc. Lifesciences degree,Ruia College, Matunga,Mumbai. She has also workedas a Research Fellow on aDepartment of Biotechnology(DBT), Govt. of India sponsoredproject and has authored 7 re-search articles in famed na-tional and international jour-nals for microbiology and tex-tiles.

Productive and Protective Microbiologyin Textile Industry

Dr. Madhura P. Nerurkar

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tures are easy to handle and maintain in the laboratory.3. Microbial Enzymes3.1. Enzyme Production by MicroorganismsEnzymes are chemically proteins in nature that consistof long chains of amino acids held together by peptidebonds. Microorganisms that produce enzymes can beobtained from various different natural areas namelyriver water, soil, estuary, sand, rotten fruits and veg-etables, decaying wood etc. The first step is the pro-curement of the samples from these areas followed byscreening of these samples for acquiring the desiredenzyme producing microorganism. Once the microor-ganism is selected, it is subjected to large scale en-zyme production using fermentation process. The en-zyme is collected from the microbial cells by centrifu-gation followed by ultrafiltration or ion-exchange fil-tration. This enzyme sample is now ready for applica-tion.3.2. Role of enzymes in the textile industryThe textile industry already has started making use ofenzymes in few of its industrial processes. The com-mercial application of amylase in biodesizing of cot-ton fabric for the complete removal of the sizing agent,majorly Starch, without any damage to the fabric iswell-known. Another enzyme, Cellulase, is used in aprocess known as 'Bio-Stonewashing'. A small dose ofcellulase works by loosening the indigo dye on thedenim and this process can replace several kilogramsof pumice stones. The use of less pumice stones re-sults in less damage to garment, machine and lesspumice dust in the laundry environment. In the de-gumming of silk and wool processing, proteases areused. However, the use of enzymes in all the areas ofwet processes is not commercialized yet.4. Microbial Colourants4.1. Colourant Production by MicroorgainsmsColourant producing microorganisms have been foundin diverse habitats such as soil, fresh and marine water,air, milk, industrial wastes etc. Thus, screening ofsamples from this habitat to obtain colourant produc-ing microorganisms is frequently done using traditionalsurface spread technique. On obtaining the desiredcolourant producing microorganism, the next step isthe mass production of the colourant. Since the use ofmicrobial colourants in textiles is a new concept andstill research is going on, the microbial colourants areusually produced using the submerged liquid fermen-tation techniques. Fermentation is followed by theextraction of the colourants from the microorganism.Solvent extraction procedures are generally used as

most of the colourants are insoluble in water and thiscolourant extract is used as a microbial dye for dyeingtextile fabrics. Colourant purification methods includechromatography techniques while structural analysisof the colourants is based on the FTIR, NMR studies.Exhaust dyeing techniques are used for dyeing ofnatural and synthetic fibres with microbial colourants.Evaluation of the dyed fabrics for colour strength andfastness properties is usually done by the standard ISOand AATCC methods.4.2. LimitationsThe fabrics dyed with microbial colourants show ex-cellent rubbing fastness and satisfactory wash fastnessbut the light fastness properties are found to be poor.Since majority of the microbial colourants are solventextracts, the dyeing of fabrics through such medium iseconomically not feasible. Moreover, a complete shadegamut covering the whole colour spectrum like thoseof synthetic dyes is till now unavailable in case ofmicrobial colourants. Thus, the future work of interestwould be pretreatment of fabrics or chemical modifi-cation of the microbial colourants to improve the fast-ness properties and screening more samples to obtainmicroorganisms producing pigments giving all colourshades. Hence, if we overcome the limitations of mi-crobial colourants, they can serve as a noteworthysource of natural dyes in future.5. Antimicrobial TextilesIn this segment of microbiology, the textiles provideprotection against microorganisms that cause skin in-fections. The control of the microorganisms can beachieved through normal antimicrobial finishing pro-cesses of the fabrics. The antimicrobial finishing cancontrol smells, discolouration, spots and degradationof the fabric caused due to microbial attack. Antimi-crobial agents are chemical substances obtained natu-rally or synthesized in the laboratory and inhibit thegrowth of microorganisms. The application of antimi-crobial agent on textiles increases the life of the fabricbecause the agent doesn't allow the microorganism toproliferate. Thus, smaller the proliferation of microor-ganism more is the life of the fabric. To check theantimicrobial activity of the fabrics, various standardprocedures have been designed by AAATCC, ISO andother organisations.Thus, to reduce the effluent load on environment, in-clusion of beneficial microbial products in the textilewet processing and simultaneously designing antimi-crobial textiles for fighting against harmful microor-ganisms is the need of the hour.

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This series is written primarily as an introductory textfor an audience comprised of those interested or al-ready working in, textile related areas, who wish toacquire broad knowledge of tissue engineering scaf-folds and the application of textiles in it.

In the previous chapter we tried to put forth the use ofvarious bio-polymers for the manufacturing of tissueengineering scaffolds and the classification of the bio-polymers and various characteristics useful for theirapplication.

In the present chapter, the various techniques used forthe manufacturing of tissue engineering scaffolds arediscussed along with need and importance of the tech-niques which show specific application in engineeringof scaffolds.

Chapter 4: Techniques for manufacturing of Tissueengineering scaffoldsAs seen from the last chapter the use of bio-polymersfor manufacturing tissue engineering scaffolds is in-creased in recent times. The important reason of usingbio-polymers is the flexibility in processing of the same.The process flexibility of the materials is necessaryfor making scaffolds since they are made according toneed of the scaffold and their application. The speci-fications required for the scaffolds vary every time asper their end-application. These specifications cannotbe met using only one manufacturing technique. Newtechniques are continuously being evolved for manu-facturing of tissue engineering scaffolds. These newtechniques can be used in synergy for imitating thestructure of tissues. The tissue present in any part ofthe body is not a single pattern, but a multiple array ofdifferent patterns which together perform a specificbody function. In order to make tissue engineeringscaffolds the imitation of these patterns is obligatoryso that the growth of the tissue on the scaffold takesplace according to the original tissue structure.In order to meet the requirements of the different pat-terns, the tissue engineering scaffolds are made usingdifferent techniques. Each different technique offers

advantages and disadvantages in the form of controlover pore morphology, ability to incorporate bioactivemolecules, mechanical properties and cost. Techniquesare evolved using variation in heat, pressure and/ororganic solvents or incorporating cells and bioactivemolecules directly into the polymer. There are othervariations that are employed for making tissue engi-neering scaffolds but there can be difficulties in massproduction. As all the tissue engineering scaffolds aredesigned as per the required application, the techniquesthat meet the requirement to provide optimal condi-tions are employed for manufacturing. The commontissue engineering scaffold fabrication techniques whichare used in any applications are discussed in the fol-lowing text.

1. Solvent Casting / Particulate Leaching (SC/PL)As the name suggests, the technique of solvent cast-ing/particulate leaching comprises of dissolving thebiodegradable polymer in an organic solvent, adding awater-soluble porogen of desired size range to thispolymer solution and then casting into a mold of de-sired shape. After the solvent has evaporated, thematerial is vacuum dried to remove any residual sol-vent. The polymer/porogen composite is then leachedin water to extract the salt and dried again. Advan-tages of the SC/PL technique include control over theporosity (up to 97%) and pore size of the scaffoldbased on the percentage and size range of the porogenselected, respectively. Additionally, porogen selectioncan also be used to impart a desired pore shape. Or-ganic solvents like hexane, methanol, ethanol are usedalong with porogens like NaCl, citric acid, ammoniumcarbonate, sugar or paraffin. However there are diffi-culties like lack of interconnectivity in pores and re-sidual solvents affecting the cell growth and also theSC/PL is a batch process.

2. Gas Foaming (GF)In gas foaming technique, the drawback of using or-ganic solvent can be eliminated by using a gas (mostlyCO2) to foam the polymeric material. Solvent castpolymer disks or polymer disks formed by compres-

Chapter 4 : Techniques for manufacturing of tissue engineering scaffoldsMiss. Pallavi Madiwale, Mrs. Rachana Shukla, Dr. Ravindra Adivarekar

The series of chapters under the title, 'Textile scaffolds in Tissue Engineering' are being published inthe Journal of Textile Association which cover the role of textiles for various scaffolds, the type andform of materials used for making scaffolds, application of these scaffolds for recovery of variousorgans and the scope of textile technology in tissue engineering scaffold in future.

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sion molding polymer pellets are saturated with CO2in a high-pressure chamber. Once the polymer is satu-rated with CO2, a rapid pressure drop triggers a ther-modynamic instability in the polymer/gas solution,leading to the nucleation and growth of cells/pores.The use of organic solvents is eliminated in this methodhowever the interconnectivity of the pores is an issueand it can be carried out only in batches.

3. Gas Foaming/ParticulateLeaching (GF/PL)Due to the aforementioned drawbacks of the SC/PLand GF processes, namely the use of organic solvents,batch processes, and poor interconnectivity, processesof using GF/PL process in synergy have been devel-oped. The use of the two techniques together increasethe interconnectivity of the pores since the nucleationpores due to gas foaming and the pores due to theremoval of porogen help achieve more number of poresconnected to each other.

4. Emulsion Freeze-Drying (EFD)The emulsion freeze-drying method is also used toproduce tissue engineering scaffolds. The method in-volves forming an emulsion of bio-polymer solutionwith water as dispersed phase. The emulsion is thencasted into a mold and quenched rapidly with liquidnitrogen solidifying the emulsion mixture. The mix-ture is then exposed to vaccum at -50 o C. at lowpressure of 30 Torr where both the solvent of thepolymer solution and water are sublimed. Vacuumdesiccator is used to remove the remaining solventsafter drying. Highly interconnected pores with poressize of 10 to 35 and porosity up to 95 % can be pro-duced using this method. This method is able to pro-duce scaffolds with a high volume of an interconnectedporous structure. Process variability can be achievedby varying the types of solvents, polymers, and theratio in which they are used. Various bio-polymerslike collagen, chitin, alginate, PGA, PLLA, PLGA andtheir blends are used for making scaffolds using theemulsion freeze drying technique. The limitation ofthe process is that the pore morphology is of close-ended pores.

5. Thermally Induced Phase Separation (TIPS)The thermally induced phase separation method uses ahigh-temperature polymer solution, consisting of abiocompatible polymer in a solvent (e.g., phenol, di-oxane, or naphthalene). When reducing the solutiontemperature to below the melting point of the solvent,phase separation occurs, forming a polymer-rich phaseand a solvent-rich phase. The solvent of the solidified

solvent-rich phase is sublimed, changing from the solidphase to the gaseous state directly. With this tech-nique, a variety of foams with pore sizes ranging from20 to 500 mm have been fabricated. It is also possibleto incorporate many nutrients like different proteinswith minimal loss of activity using this method. Thevariability in the products can be obtained by varyingthe type of polymer, type of solvent and polymer-to-solvent ratio. The desired pore morphology can beobtained by varying the process conditions. Gradationin pore size from macro-porous (which facilitates de-livery of cells and growth factors) to nano-porous size(advantageous for neo-vascularization) can be obtainedby combining the phase separation process with par-ticulate leaching using paraffin microspheres, salt orsugar particles.

6. Solid Freeform FabricationTechniquesSolid Freeform fabrication techniques were initiallydiscovered in the late 1980s and early 1990s as a wayto rapidly prototype required designs in a quick, cost-effective manner. It is also known as rapid prototyping.Since the primary requirement of the tissue engineer-ing scaffold is to imitate the structure of the desiredtissue, it is very important for the scaffold to be in theshape of the desired tissue. Hence, advancements incomputer aided design (CAD) and the types of mate-rials processed have led to a plethora of research intothe use of SFF techniques for manufacturing tissueengineering scaffolds. SFF techniques require a solidmodel of the scaffold to be developed prior to process-ing. Software programs then slice the model into sev-eral subunits that are then built up consecutively usingan additive manufacturing technique to create a com-plex 3D structure. The main advantage of SFF tech-niques is the ability to precisely control porosity, poresize, pore shape, and interconnectivity. This aids in theviability of cells as well as being able to control themechanical properties to a certain extent, as the bulkproperties of the scaffold are highly dependent onporosity, material used, and the strength of thebondholding the polymer particles together. The SFFtechnique has been employed in various ways possibleto create a 3 D structure and mimic the desired tissue.The different technologies applied for the use of thetechnique is given further.

6.1 Stereo-lithography (SL)Stereo-lithography was the first commercialization ofthe SFF technique. The technology of it involves theuse of photo-curable resin and an ultraviolet (UV) laser.The photo-curable resin is polymerized layer by layer

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to create a 3D construct. Initially, a moveable platformis lowered into a vat of photo-curable resin to coat theresin over the platform. The platform is then raisedand a leveling wiper or vacuum blade moves acrossthe surface to provide an evenly coated layer of resin.To build each layer, the laser is guided across thesurface, drawing a cross-sectional pattern in the x-yplane to form a solid section (through curing of theresin). The platform is then lowered along with thecured layer, which is attached to the platform, and theprocess is repeated with the next slice of the modeluntil the 3D geometry is completed. Once completed,the uncured resin is washed away and the 3D con-struct is then subjected to a post-curing process, yield-ing a fully cured part. One of the main challengesfaced with SL for tissue engineering application is theuse of a photo-curable resin as the scaffold material.Initially the researchers used composite of bio-poly-mers with acrylate polymers mixed with photo-initia-tors to process using stereo-lithography. Also the limi-tations result due to the precision in the movementgiven to the platform which gives the thickness of thecross section. The spot of the laser also is the contrib-uting factor. The limitation though could be overcomeby increasing the resolution but it results in strikingincrease of the time required. The thickness of 100mm and laser spot of 5 mm are the least dimensionsachieved in the research.

6.2 Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM)The fused deposition modeling process as the nameindicates is a process which involves the controlleddeposition of the fused polymer. Polymer filament issupplied on a spool and fed to an extrusion head whereit is heated above the glass transition temperature (Tg)for amorphous polymers and just above the melt tem-perature (Tm) for semi crystalline polymers. The moltenpolymer is extruded as the extrusion head moves inthe x-y plane to form a thin slice of the 3D modelcreated by CAD software. The polymer melt solidifiesquickly and upon completion of the first slice, thebase is lowered and the process is repeated until the3D construct is created. The direction of material depo-sition, or lay-down pattern, can be changed for eachlayer to provide variations in mechanical propertiesand pore morphology in the case of porous structures.Advantages of the FDM process include the ability toform a fully interconnected pore network in complex3D structures. Additionally, no organic solvents areinvolved in this process. Though a high degree ofprecision can be achieved in the x-y plane, control ofthe z-direction is limited and governed by the diameter

of the material extruded through the extrusion head.The most important drawback of FDM is that, it pre-cludes the use of natural polymers and only syntheticbio-polymers can be used for making the 3D struc-tures with FDM. However, the wide range of porosi-ties and achievable mechanical properties make FDMa highly researched process for fabricating tissue en-gineering scaffolds.

6.3 Selective Laser Sintering (SLS)The selective laser sintering process involves the fu-sion of the polymers into a developed 3D constructusing laser technology. A layer of thermoplastic pow-der is deposited and leveled on a built platform. Aheat-generating CO2 laser is guided along the cross-section of the 3D model in the x-y plane, selectivelyfusing the polymer particles together. The powder bedmay be pre-heated to reduce the time and laser energyrequired to fuse the particles. The un-fused particlesremain in the plane and act as a support structure forsubsequent layers. After the first layer is fused, theplatform is lowered, another layer of material is de-posited, and the process is repeated. The heat gener-ated from the laser fuses each subsequent layer to thelayer beneath it until the 3D construct is completed.The un-fused polymer particles are then removed witha post processing treatment, leaving behind the 3Dmodel created by the CAD software. This process canbe used with a variety of materials including poly-mers, metals and ceramics. SLS can be used to createporous structures that have excellent interconnectivity,though the achievable pore size is generally of theorder of 50 mm or less. The pore size and porosity aredependent on the size of the polymer particles, theamount of force used to compact the particles whenthey are deposited, and the spot size of the laser. SLStechnique can give scaffold with very has compressivestrength up to 2 MPa. Although no organic solventsare used in SLS, the incorporation of bioactive mol-ecules is limited due to the high temperatures used forfusing the polymer particles together. Additionally, theuse of SLS makes it possible to accurately produceporous, complex 3D geometries that can act as tissueengineering scaffolds.

6.4 Three-Dimensional Printing (3DP)The three-dimensional printing process was first de-veloped at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology.In this process, a layer of thermoplastic powder isdeposited onto a build piston and leveled by a roller.An ink-jet printing head scans the surface in the x-yplane, selectively depositing a binder to create the first

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layer of the 3D construct. The un-bound particles re-main as structural support. Once the binder has prop-erly bonded the particles together, the build piston islowered, another layer of powder is deposited, and theprocess is repeated for each subsequent layer until the3D model created by the CAD software has been com-pleted. The un-fused particles are then removed viavacuum, leaving behind the particles selectively fusedby the binder in the form of the 3D model. Highlyinterconnected pores having porosity up to 70 % isachievable with high precision in the shape geometryand morphology. The 3DP process can incorporatedifferent materials in subsequent layers and allows forexcellent interconnectivity. However, difficulties arefaced in the complete removal of the unbound par-ticles and the organic solvents used as binders. Theselimitations are approached by use of water based bind-ers such as polyvinyl alcohol. The resolution up to200 mm (horizontally) and 100 mm (vertically) can beachieved using 3DP technology. Incorporation of saltparticulates further enhances the formation of macro-porous structure geometry. The flexibility of materialsused to fabricate complex 3D structures, the achiev-able mechanical properties, and the highinterconnectivity make 3DP one of the most highlyresearched SSF techniques for fabricating tissue engi-neering scaffolds.

7. Self assemblySelf assembly is the spontaneous organization of themolecules into well defined ordered structure requiredfor specific function. The self assembly of the bio-polymers can give nano-scale fibres or nano-fibres.Amphiphilic peptide sequence is a common methodfor the fabrication of 3D nano-fibrous structure fortissue engineering. In aqueous solution the hydropho-bic and hydrophilic domains within these amphiphilicpeptides interact together with the help of weak noncovalent bonds (eg. Hydrogen bond, Van der Waalsinteractions, ionic bond and hydrophobic interaction)thus producing distinct fast recovering hydrogel, withthe hydrophobic interactions as the molecules cometogether. Synthetic di-block polymer can also be usedfor manufacturing 3D construct nano-fibers by usingself assembly. Polymeric dendrimers can also self-as-semble into nanofibers.

8. Freeze-dryingFreeze drying technique is use for the fabrication ofporous scaffolds. This technique is based upon theprinciple of sublimation. Polymer is first dissolved ina solvent to form a solution of desired concentration.

The solution is frozen and solvent is removed by lyo-philization under the high vacuum that fabricates thescaffold with high porosity and interconnectivity. Thistechnique is applied to a number of different polymersincluding silk proteins, PGA, PLLA, PLGA, PLGA/PPF blends. The pore size can be controlled by thefreezing rate and pH; a fast freezing rate producessmaller pores. Controlled solidification in a singledirection has been used to create a homogenous 3D-pore structure. Main advantage of this technique isthat, it neither requires high temperature nor separateleaching step. The drawback of this technique is smallerpore size and long processing time.

9. Traditional Polymer Processing TechniquesThe bio-polymers used for construction of TE scaf-folds can also be processed by the conventional poly-mer processing techniques which gives the formationof either long continuous filaments or short fibres whichcan be further processed to form either fabric withdifferent weave of non-woven sheet using the varioustechniques available. This is the textile point of viewwhich has been covered in the second chapter of theseries. Also the bio-polymers can be processed andcan be made into various forms like pellets, granules,powders, sheets, fluids as the different polymers areprocessed for their specific end-use application in paintsand polymer industry. These forms can be further pro-cessed by subjecting it to a variety of secondary op-erations such as welding, adhesive bonding, machin-ing, or surface decorating (painting, metalizing). Thevarious combinations of the forms and the operationsare employed for the manufacturing of various tissueengineering constructs as per the requirement. A vari-ety of processes have been employed to produce tissueengineering scaffolds, as discussed in the followingsections.

9.1. ExtrusionExtrusion is a continuous process in which pellets orgranules are plasticized and homogenized through therotation action of a screw (or screws in cases of twin-screw extruders) inside a barrel. The melt is continu-ously pushed under pressure through a shaping die toform the final product. As material is passing throughthe die, the extrudate initially acquires the shape ofthe die opening, but changes its shape due to the struc-tural recovery. Depending on the types of die, prod-ucts of various shapes can be made such as tubing,pipe, film, sheet, wire, substrate coatings, and otherprofiles. Similar to the particulate leaching combina-tion of two polymers (e.g. PCL and PEO) one having

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water solubility can be used to obtain porous struc-ture. The water soluble component can be selectivelyextracted by placing it in water. The inclusion of aporogen in the melt is also possible however theporogen should retain the size as desired without un-dergoing erosion and breakdown in the extrusion pro-cess.

9.2. Melt SpinningMelt spinning is an effective method for manufactur-ing polymer fibers. The polymer is melted and ex-truded from a spinneret, forming continuous filamentsof polymer. The spinneret for melt spinning can havevaried shape and diameters, thus giving more permu-tations in ensuring the requirements for TE scaffoldsare met. Often the material is extruded into a monofila-ment or multifilament yarn, which is drawn and solidi-fied by cooling (air is commonly used), and then woundonto spools, or processed further, such as by texturizing,weaving, or braiding, to make a more complex appli-cation. The most common medical application for meltspun fibers is as sutures. However, they are increas-ingly being explored for usage as tissue engineeringscaffolds. Multifilament yarns created through meltspinning are often used as vascular grafts. Applica-tions for melt spinning are somewhat limited due tothe large fiber size (10-12 mm), which is a frequentdrawback of typical extrusion methods.

9.3. Electro-spinningElectro-spinning, or electrostatic fiber spinning, is anold polymer processing technology dating back to 1934,which has many applications in tissue engineeringscaffolds, drug delivery vehicles, textiles, and filters.This method involves applying a high voltage electri-cal charge (5e30 kV) to a liquid polymer solution orpolymer melt. This charge overcomes the surface ten-sion of the polymer, forming a Taylor cone (where apendant cone is formed due to balancing of surfacetension by electrostatic force), which ejects a chargedliquid jet of polymer which is elongated by a series ofmovements called electrostatic repulsion, forming aninterconnected web of fibers. Due to the high speedsof the ejected liquid and the dynamic bending motion,it is difficult to control the deposition of the fibers.Electro-spun scaffolds may be formed frombiocompatible synthetic polymers such as PLLA,PLGA, PVOH, poly (ethylene-co-vinyl acetate), PEO,PU and polycarbonates, natural polymers includingcollagen/gelatin, chitosan, hyaluronic acid (HA), elas-tin, or silk fibroin, or a blend of natural and syntheticpolymers. The polymers are dissolved in a solvent and

the solution or melt is expelled from a syringe at aconstant rate. The solvent evaporates and the polymerdries as the fibers land on a grounded collecting drum,plate, or other specially shaped collecting device, form-ing the scaffold. These scaffolds can be highly porous(greater than 90%) with nonwoven fibers on the microor nanoscale. Typical fiber diameters range from 200nm to 5 mm. Many factors affect the properties of thescaffold such as scaffold size, pore size, and diameterand orientation of the fibers. The properties can bechanged by varying the type of solvent, rate of ejec-tion, melt viscosity, concentration of polymers, volt-age and uniformity of the electric field, capillary di-ameter, type of collection device, or distance from thecapillary or nozzle to the collection device. They mayalso utilize other materials within the fibers or as coat-ing to promote cell differentiation, growth, and adhe-sion. Additionally, living cells can be incorporated intothe scaffold by concurrently electro-spinning with thepolymer. Electro-spun tissue engineering scaffolds havemany applications, including use as bone, cartilage,vascular, and neural scaffolds. Electro-spun bone scaf-folds are currently being explored that include bonegrafts and scaffold membranes which will assist withguided bone regeneration. One promising use forelectro-spun scaffolds involves the production of vas-cular scaffolds using natural polymers collagen andelastin or collagen and synthetic polymers such asPLGA, which may be utilized as vascular grafts, hearttissue scaffolds, or new bloodvessels with the propermechanical properties and biocompatibility.

9.4. Injection MoldingInjection molding is a "continuous" cyclic process offorming plastic into a desired shape by forcing thematerial under pressure into a cavity that has the shapeof the final part. The shaping is achieved by cooling(thermo-plastics) or by a chemical reaction (thermo-sets). It is one of the most common and versatile op-erations for mass production of complex plastics partswith excellent dimensional tolerance and net-shape. Itrequires minimal or no finishing or assembly opera-tions. In addition to thermoplastics and thermo-sets,the process is being extended to such materials as fi-bers, ceramics, and powdered metals, with polymersas binders. Moreover, numerous attempts have beenmade to develop various special injection moldingprocesses to produce parts with special design featuresand properties. Some of these alternative processesderived from conventional injection molding, such asmicrocellular injection molding, have created a newera for tissue engineering scaffold fabrication. It has

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been mentioned in the literature that while syntheticbiodegradable polymers can easily be fabricated into3D shapes using injection molding, but it is difficult tofabricate scaffolds because of the need to create highporosity. Blowing agents are used to create porousmorphology in the injection-molded scaffolds. Also thetechnique of SC/PL is adapted to injection molding ina research. Even though this research requires the useof organic solvents, it describes a method to massproduce highly porous, interconnected 3D scaffolds.However the porogen may be eroded and broken downto cause the undesired irregularities in the pore size.

About the Authors

Miss. Pallavi Madiwale is currently pursuingPh.D.(Tech.) in Fibres and Textile Prcessing Tech-nology in the department of Fibres and TextilesProcessing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) RavindraV. Adivarekar, at Institute of Chemical Technology(ICT), Mumbai, India. Her research areas of inter-est are Functional finishes, Encapsulation of speci-ality chemicals, Bio-materials and tissue engineer-ing.

Mrs. Rachana Shukla is currently pursuingPh.D.(Tech.) in Fibres and Textile Prcessing Tech-nology in the department of Fibres and TextilesProcessing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) RavindraV. Adivarekar, at Institute of Chemical Technology(ICT), Mumbai, India. Her research areas of inter-est are Textile colouration, Polymer science, Con-servation of resources in textile wet processing andEffluent treatment.

Dr. Ravindra Adivarekar is currently Professor andHead of the Department of Fibres and Textiles Pro-cessing Technology at the Institute of ChemicalTechnology (ICT), Mumbai, India. His researchareas of interest are Textile colouration, Green pro-cessing of textiles, Medical textiles, Enzyme manu-facturing and application, Natural dyes for textilesand cosmetics, Novel textile processing techniquesand Textile composites. He has around 5 years ofIndustrial Experience mainly of Processing andDyestuff manufacturing companies prior to beingfaculty for last 13 years. He has filed 2 patents andpublished more than 100 papers in journals of na-tional and International repute.

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Global Textile Technology & Engineering Show-2015by India ITME Society created a landmark event forTextile Engineering Industry in India & overseas. Theevent which focused on Post spinning Sectors attractedexhibitors from 12 Countries & visitors from 32 Coun-tries with visitor flow continuing late into evening on3rd day even after closing time of the exhibition.

The event was opened by Mr. Narendra L Shah, PastChairman & Hon. Life member, Mr. G.T. Dembla, PastChairman & Hon. Life Member, Mr. Bachkaniwala,Past Chairman & Hon. Life Member of India ITMESociety.

Lighting of lamp - 20th January 2015 - Opening ofGTTES-2015

Many first time products were displayed & new tech-nology launched at GTTES-2015.

A.T.E. Enterprises Private Limited showcased the lat-est electronic terry rapier weaving machine (modelGA738-I equipped with electronic dobby). This ma-chine has excellent features needed for the productionof terry fabric with high quality and provides excellent"VALUE FOR MONEY".

With 282 India and foreign exhibitors, GTTES expocovered an area of 11,500 sq. metres earning the dis-tinction of being the largest textile technology event inIndia after India ITME Expo series.

This event was visited by high level government del-egation, delegates from Sri Lanka, Ethiopia, Korea andfrom textile dept., Heavy Industry, Govt. of India andindustrial delegation from India and overseas creatingwide spread excitement and anticipation amongst ex-hibitors and industry members.

Mr. Sunil Porwal, Additional Chief Secretary (Textile)Govt. of Maharashtra, visited GTTES & interacted with

A new catalyst for Textile Engineering Industryexhibitors. Mr. Porwal said, "I am happy to see thatGTTES 2015 visitors representing all segments of themanufacturing chain from India & China & many otherhave converged here creating new opportunities forthe State & Country".

Mr. Vishvajit Sahay, Joint Secretary, Department ofHeavy Industry, Govt. of India, visited the show andtook keen interest in the exhibits from across Indiaand globe.

Ambassadors and Consul General from 17 Countriesvisited the Exhibition highlighting importance of Indiain Textile sector & the keen interest GTTES generatedinternationally.Day 2 of the event presented the "op-portunities in Ethiopia" & held interactive session onthe topic with Mr. Sileshi Lemma, Director General,Textile Industry Development Institute, Govt. of Ethio-pia. These efforts generated business for exhibitors &business visitors from African countries placed an orderfor multiple machinery.

GTTES 2015 welcomed Hon. Minister Sri RamdasKadam, Cabinet Minister of Environment. Mr. Kadampersonally visited each exhibitor and appreciated thedisplay of each machinery & technology. He alsoencouraged and assured to boost the textile sector andits various requirements wherever applicable. Manyexhibitors expressed satisfaction at the quality of ex-hibition, event management & level of business visi-tors.

(L to R : Mr. Vaidya, Ms Seema Srivastava, Hon.Minister Mr. Ramdas Kadam, Mr. Sanjiv Lathia,

Mr. Rajnikant Bachkaniwala& Mr. Shekhar Shirdhankar)

Mr. VallabhThumar, Chairman & MD of AlidhraWeavetech Group observed that "The objective of thisspecial series event is not only to showcase technol-ogy and machinery but also to address the needs ofquality, variety, allied services and access to both re-

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gional markets and clientele, especially for small &medium enterprises."

Mr. G V Aras, Director, Textile Engineering Groupquoted, "GTTES 2015 was a wise move by the orga-nizers for focusing more on weaving & processingmachines which automatically targets & boost the small& medium scale textile manufacturers in India. A.T.E.has gained several unexpected business proposals fromTier II & Tier III cities manufacturers and we are happyto be here at the right time and right place."

Mr. Fritz Legler, VP - Marketing / Sales & Services,Staubli also expressed his views that," though theeconomic slowdown has affected India's textile indus-try, we are surprised to see very encouraging footfallsat GTTES & the participation of Chinese exhibitors".

(L to R: Mr. Suresh Halvankar, MLA of Ichalkaranji withMr. Rajnikant Bachkaniwala,

Mr. SanjivLathia, Chairman India ITME Society &Seema Srivastava, ED, India ITME Society)

Ms. Seema Srivastava, Executive Director, India ITMESociety shared that the 1stedition of GTTES exhibi-tion has grown in stature and prestige beyond expec-tation with 282 Exhibitors, 32 Countries 29,000 visi-tors' footfall, 23 Media partners, 5 educations institu-tions and 15 supporting organizations. Heavy IndustryDept. & Textile Dept., Govt. of Maharashtra supportedthe event & Govt. of India actively participated withofficials interacting with Industry members.

GTTES-2015, first edition proved to be an excellentexample of the noble efforts of the Society to supportthe textile engineering industry through high qualityexhibition, creating fruitful visitor interaction, show-casing new range of technology and developing newmarkets for exhibitors.

It is successfully placed Textile & Textile EngineeringIndustry of India in the limelight through high stan-dard global events in the Country.

sents the organised textile industry in South India andalso organizes the Texfair. Texfair is the most impor-tant international trade fair for the Indian textile indus-try. It took place from 9 to 12 January 2015 inCoimbatore. Rieter showcased its technology compo-nents and conversions for all four spinning systems,combined with a wide range of information for theexhibition visitors.

Original Rieter Spare Parts

Rieter presented miniature models of all 4 end spin-ning machines, technology upgrades and conversions,spare part kits and the ELO service model. In this way,Rieter wishes to bring the latest state-of-the-art tech-nology closer to its customers - the most modernmachines, European quality standards with spare parts,accessories and services for yarn manufacturers. Thiswill enable customers to modernise their companiesaccording to the latest developments in the completeRieter product range.

Rieter maintains a wide range of spare parts, technol-ogy parts and conversions. Rieter modernizations bringcustomers' machines up to the latest technological leveland enable them to spin yarns of the highest quality.

TEXFAIR 2015 IN INDIA:RIETER PRESENTS

TECHNOLOGYCOMPONENTS AND

CONVERSIONS

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From plantation to fashion and lifestyle, Birla Cellu-lose is a name that is touching lives across the world.With plantations, factories and marketing offices itreach out to many countries, making an impact on theglobal textile and non-woven businesses. It started asa vision of the US $40 Billion Aditya Birla Group thatforesaw the opportunity and availability of fibres andidentified the need for a suitable natural, man-madefibre that would eventually take the textile world bystorm.

It gives us a great sense of pride to say that BirlaCellulose is a world leader in viscose staple fibre with4 plants in India, one each in Thailand, Indonesia andChina giving it a lion's share of the market. The fibreunits have full integrations within the group for Pulpwith plants, one each in India and Sweden and threein Canada, caustic soda and captive power. Birla Cel-lulose is the umbrella brand for Aditya Birla Group'sCellulosic fibre offering Birla Viscose, Birla Modal,Birla Excel, Birla Spunshades and Birla Micro Vis-cose fibres as sub brands.

Birla Cellulose continuously conducts consumer re-search in main consuming markets of Europe, China,India, and Indonesia. Our research has shown thatviscose is appreciated for its comfort and fluidity, beinga fibre with a natural heritage. Led by the desire ofleading global brands and retail, Birla Cellulose pio-neered trends and forecast by working closely withdesign consultant, Mr. Sandy McLennan, East CentralStudio London and lifestyle patterns of WGSN. Thetrend collection every season is consumer aligned andhighlights the choice to have more of nature basedfibres in the consumer's wardrobe.

The Spring Summer 2016 Collection is presented atPremière Vision Yarns, Paris. The over-arching themeof the SS16 collections is focused around nature, andin particular consumers' desire to care for nature andlive a natural lifestyle. Birla Modal and Birla

BIRLA Cellulose presents SS16 collection,"Free by Nature "at PREMIER VISION 2015, Paris.

Spunshades which have immaculate sustainability andfashion credentials have been leveraged in individualcollections namely 'Forager' & 'Discipline'.

Both themes highlight the structural uniqueness andthe tech interface of Birla Modal blended fabrics,uniquely with Cupromonium, viscose filament yarn,etc. It has a wide array of structures in dobby, weaves,jacquard in fine and medium counts, perfect for fash-ion. These structures add a design quotient hithertonot tried and leave a footprint on fashion with perfor-mance.

The Forager collection is focused around the concept'less is more,' helping meet the growing demand forsustainable living that values nature and is keen tonourish rather than harm it.

Birla Modal - Amicor blended knit structures haveantibacterial features which combines fluidity withfunctionality. Made with Amicor acrylic the productalso is light weight, easy care and nice to feel. AlsoBirla Modal - Coolmax blended active wear has mois-ture management with comfort features for Women'swear and Men's wear. Birla Modal has a natural ten-dency to be cool in summer and warm in winter, hav-ing been made from choicest wood pulp. Birla Modal- Natural dyes collection brings in an additional layerof sustainability.

Birla Spunshades value for knitted Tops and leggingin a manifold range of seasonal colours coupled witha sustainability pitch by saving in water, chemicals,auxiliaries and energy has been the hallmark of thiscollection.

'Discipline' collection, inspired by the concept of 'thecritical balance,' as consumers increasingly look topursue the "right kind of luxury that is enjoyed re-sponsibly and taken seriously. The collection featuresBirla Modal fibre with a double benefit, a sustainableattribute as a cellulosic fibre extended through the useof natural dyes and hand block printing techniques,meaning that there is minimal technology interface,and that the fabric is produced naturally.

Birla Cellulose presented the Spring Summer 2016 atPremière Vision Yarns, Paris from 10th - 12th Feb'15.

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Question... What's the best way to make a smallfortune in the stock market?

Answer... Start off with a big one!


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'A perfect digital textile printing solution to trans-form home furnishing application possibilities andbringing more efficiency and profitability to busi-nesses'

Colorjet India Ltd, a leading manu-facturer of digital inkjet textileprinters will showcase the livedemonstration of its latest grandformat direct to fabric printer forcustomised home furnishing tex-tiles - Fabjet Grand at GTE 2015which starts from February 28,2015 in NSIC Ground, Okhla, NewDelhi in Hall E - stall no E5.

The launch of the Fabjet Grand which is available infour models in different heads and colour options,signals the company's move towards capturing themarket for customised digital textile printers acrossthe globe.

This machine is the perfect solution to print directlyon various types of fabric for short run and customiseddesigns printing for the home furnishing business andis also an excellent industrial solution for mass pro-duction of home furnishing textiles.

Fabjet Grand is targeted at the customised home fur-nishing textile segment, particularly for producers ofhome décor products like curtains, bed covers and sofacovers which are directly printed on cotton and poly-ester based fabrics and uses environmental friendlyaqueous based pigment inks.

Colorjet India Ltd Director, Pavan Gupta says, "Endusers are looking for a unique style in home interiors.They can use something they have designed, a photo-

"COLORJET to Show Latest Direct to FabricPrinter for Home Textiles 'Fabjet Grand' at GTE 2015"

graphic image that they like or a specialty look thatdoesn't come from a stock wall covering.

"The immediacy of digital printing is what's appealingfor creating custom furniture or drapery pieces. Digi-tally printed fabrics are much more on-demand as setuptime is shorter than screening and any changes can bemade quickly," he adds.

The printer delivers high productivity, since it has twoheads per colour in staggered position, which increasesproduction and also has an extremely high practicalprinting speed enabling high daily printing volumesand outstanding run-ability for overnight printing with-out banding and colour deflection.

The Fabjet Grand features a proprietary AIVC tech-nology for consistent print performance by maintain-ing constant jetting conditions even in varying envi-ronmental conditions and offers excellent print life withvivid eye-catching long-life colours for unique andrichly finished fabric.

It has an automated feed and a take up system,synchronised with tension bars for long unattendedprint runs on various types of fabric. It operates via apneumatics control-based tension-bar on media feedand take up, to ensure consistent tension on fabric andadjusts automatically based on the type of fabrics beingused.

The Fabjet Grand also has an automatic wiping sys-tem which wipes excess ink and dust from the printhead surface. The Capping Station prevents inks fromdrying inside the print head when printer is not in usefor long time and also protects the head from accumu-lating dust, which might cause damage to the printhead

It is equipped with advance colour management en-gine and colour processing tools, which ensures fasterprocessing of files leading to saving time and increas-ing productivity and also has user-friendly and easy touse colour controls to manage colours. There are ad-vanced dither patterns for photo-realistic output, fullycustomised printer settings for enhanced print results,smoother gradations and vibrant colours for superiorprint quality and inbuilt ICC profiles for various me-dia and print modes.

Colorjet is the only manufacturer that offers and sells

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machines as a solution, along with RIP colour man-agement, ink usage, ICC profile and training for appli-cation development or various applications that amachine can be used for across different markets.

True to its vision towards continued growth and devel-opment, the company constantly updates its productroadmap in an effort to directly connect with its endusers while also valuing feedback given by its serviceengineers and sales team. Colorjet also has a highlytrained technical team for after sales requirements.

About Colorjet India Ltd:Founded in 2004, Colorjet India Ltd is the fastestgrowing wide format digital inkjet print technologycompany in the Indian sub-continent. The company isbacked by a team with extensive experience and ex-pertise in the inkjet printing segment and is guided byits commitment of delivering products that support adesign philosophy of being economic, efficient andecological.

The company operates through two manufacturingfacilities located in India and China and sales officesspread across seven countries, which include China,Sri Lanka, UAE and India. To-date, Colorjet has in-stalled and implemented 3,750 of its printing solutionsand products across 315 cities around the world backedby a strong 278 member team, of which almost 100are in technical related functions.

SmarthBansalBrand ManagerColorjet India Ltd.Cell: +91 98102-39602Email:[email protected]

PR Contacts:ArunRaoTaurus CommunicationsCell: +91 98250-38518 / 91575-07938Email:[email protected]

Surat,31st January, 2015: LIVA presents D'Designer2015- design talents hunt open to budding fashiondesigners from hub designers to young fashion stu-dents. D Designer is a unique initiative by Birla Cel-lulose - a division The Aditya Birla Group.

In its third year, this one of its kind talent hunt nur-tures young fashion designers and provides them aplatform to showcase their potential in a crucial mar-ket such as Gujarat.

This year the event received overwhelming 2000 en-tries from across the state. These entries wereshortlisted via various rounds where the participantswere asked to create some unique and fluid creationsusing LIVA- a fabric made with natural fibres from thehouse of Aditya Birla Group.

Only the best top 10 participants made it to the finalround and displayed their dazzling collection madeusing LIVA.

Hunt for the Most Fluid DesignerAt LIVA D'Designer 2014-2015 @ SuratBirla Cellulose recognizes young designers in the state

The event kicked off with a press conference at GrandBhagwati, Surat at 3pm rewarding the efforts of num-ber of designer students who participated. Mr.ManoharSamuel, President, Marketing& Business Development, Birla Cellulose addressed the audience on how thisevent looks at encouraging young talents of fashion.The conference was graced by other eminent dignitar-ies from the fashion industry; ace designer Mr.Narendra Kumar Ahmed and Mr.Subhas Dhawan fromF Studio.

Addressing the audience, Mr.Manohar Samuel, Presi-dent Marketing & Business Development, Birla Cel-lulose said "This year the event has received tremen-dous response. We had three objectives for this initia-tive,''1) Encourage design skills of budding designers in

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Success is not final, failure is not fatal: it is thecourage to continue that counts..

- Winston Churchill


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Gujarat to create future leaders in fashion2) Have these designers work with LIVA - a fluid

fabric made with natural fibres to create innova-tive cuts & silhouettes for new age Indian con-sumer

3) Appreciate Surat's leadership in women's wearcategory and progress alignment with brands &consumers, he added"

The gala occasion exhilarated the audience with daz-zling display of various collections aimed to expressfluidity innovatively

The fashion-show witnessed the following LIVA Col-lections hit the ramp during the D'Designer finale:1) Delhi Meets Vegas- Fusion wear made fluid with

LIVA2) Life is a beach - Relaxed resort wear with LIVA3) Light& Shadow - Drama of black & white in

interesting cuts4) Red Affairs- Red dress made gracefully glamor-

ous with LIVA5) Gujarat Couture - Celebrating Gujarati spirit with

LIVA

Speaking on the occasion ace designer Mr.NarendraKumar said "This initiative by Birla Cellulose is agreat opportunity for our talented young designers toexpress their creativity and garner the experience theyrequire before they leave to pursue their respectivecareers. The participants got the opportunity to workwith LIVA - a fluid fabric made with natural fibres andcreated unique cuts and silhouettes."The jury panel felicitated the top 3 winners.

D'Designer 2015 promised to be a grand event wherethe students sparkled and shined through various en-sembles.

Liva Accredited Partner Forum - LAPF the elite bodyof supply chain partners, who offer Liva fabrics byleveraging innovation, great quality and fast servicehave welcomed the event to Surat. LAPF members inSurat have innovated in fabrics and F-Studio a promi-nent LAPF partner has showcased brilliant designs andtrends to facilitate consumers and the designers withmuch needed supplies even in small quantities.

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ADVERTISEMENT INDEXA.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. A-9 Precision Rubber Ind. Pvt. Ltd. A-12Alpenol A-4 Reliance Industries Ltd. Cover 1Birla Cellulose A-1 Rieter India Ltd. A-3Global Textile Congress A-6 Rieter India Ltd. Components A-5India ITME A-8 SSP Pvt. Ltd. Cover 2INDIATEX 2016 A-2 Unitech Techmech Cover 4Journal of the Textile Association A-10 Value Consulting A-7Lakshmi Machine Works Cover3 Veejay Lakshmi Engineering Works A-11


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1st January, 2015 was indeed a new beginning forITAMMA members at Ahmedabad.

On this auspicious day, ITAMMA initiated the forma-tion of ITAMMA Lean Manufacturing Forum Group-II, by signing off the Tripartite Agreement along withNational Productivity Council and AddValue Consult-ing Inc (AVCI).

Looking into the massive savings gained in the earlierITAMMA Lean Cluster, (to the tune of approx. 9cr asmentioned by Mr. P. N. Solanki, Dy. Director, MSME),AddValue Consulting Inc (AVCI) was retained as LeanConsultants to recreate the LEAN magic in the newcluster.

Mr. D. Chandra Sekhar, Director, MSME addressing thegathering at the ITAMMA Lean Manufacturing Forum

AddValue Consulting Inc (AVCI) is the leading LeanTraining and Consulting firm working across Asia -Africa - Australia, having assisted more than 200 or-ganizations till date in manufacturing and service sec-tors as well.

Mr.D. Chandra Sekhar, Director, MSME, briefed theITAMMA members about the prevailing MSMEschemes which ITAMMA could avail for their ben-efits and laid stress on the combined facility forma-tion.

Mr. ShirishPaliwal, Director, NPC, Gandhinagar, spokeabout the progress of cluster formations and also ofthe tremendous success of the APO meet held in De-cember at Colombo, where he mentioned that WatermanIndustries, the client of AddValue Consulting Inc(AVCI) was the only Lean practicing organization, whoshared their Lean experiences and tremendous savingsunder the guidance of AddValue Consulting Inc (AVCI).Mr. Prashant Gandhi, as a Nodal Officer, for thesecluster development activities at Ahmedabad,was con-gratulated for this excellent initiative.

Mr. D. Chandra Sekhar, Director, MSME addressing thegathering at the ITAMMA Lean Manufacturing Forum

Mr. Kaizar Mahuwala, Hon. Treasurer, ITAMMA,shared the vision of ITAMMA for implementing 100member organizations availing benefits under the LeanManufacturing Competiveness Scheme.

Mr. N.D. Mhatre, Director General (Tech), ITAMMA,mentioned that many textile engineering units havecome forward and are having a good experience interms of their improvement of their infrastructure set-up, the systems and the product quality and handlingthrough Lean Manufacturing Programmes. He furthermentioned that a detailed survey of these units collect-ing the information on the benefits in the above areasshould be published by MSME for encouraging theother Units of Textile Engineering Industry to go forsuch useful programmes where ITAMMA can take upthis assignment if needed.

Business Excellence through Lean Manufacturing-- ITAMMA's Cluster Development Initiative

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Mr. NileshArora - Founder Director,Mr. ShirishPaliwal, Director,

AddValue Consulting Inc (AVCI)NPC, Gandhinagar,Signing the Tripartite Agreement

signing the Tripartite Agreement

The Tripartite Agreement was signed by Mr.NimishSanghvi (Forum II SPV Head), Mr. NileshAroraFounder Director,AddValue Consulting Inc (AVCI) andMr. ShirishPaliwal, Director, NPC, Gandhinagar.

Mr. Chandrashekar, Director, MSME, congratulated allthe SPV members, viz. Mr. NimishSanghvi of M/s.LaxmiShuttleless Looms Pvt. Ltd., Mr. ChandreshShah of M/s. KrsnaEngimech Pvt. Ltd., Mr.PurvicPanchal of M/s. Shree Ram Textile, Mr. Alpeshand Mr. Vijay Panchal of M/s. Sonal Industries andMr. PrakashPanchal of M/s. Somet Machinery (India).

In the legal dispute about two patent Infringements ofOerlikon Barmag Texturing Technologies by a Chi-nese competitor, the Higher People's Court of FujianProvince upheld Oerlikon Barmag's application.A cessation of the patent infringement and a compen-sation for damages, were obtained against a yarnmanufacturer from Quanzhou in the Chinese provinceFujian, who had purchased the machines in question.The judgment of the first instance was upheld on ap-peal and resulted in a decommissioning of themachines.As a manufacturer of innovative leading textile ma-chinery and equipment, Oerlikon Barmag feels verystrongly about the effective protection of internallygenerated intellectual property. Peter Lau, SeniorIPCounsel at Oerlikon Manmade Fibers, very muchappreciates the fact that now, also Chineseauthoritiesand Chinese courts, consequently sanctionintellectual property right violations, and the jurisdic-tion inChina will, in the future be strengthened byspecific Intellectual Property(IP) courts: "Inventivespiritneeds a protected space, in which it can unfold.This is the basis of innovative productsandtechnologies.China is an important market for us which we want tofurthermore supply with technologicallysophisticated

products comprising a large share of engineering aswell as research and developmentactivities. In thisrespect, we welcome this development and will also inthe future, not tolerate anyviolation of our propertyrights in China."Significantly more patent lawsuits pending in ChinaThe figures confirm that the more consequent, strongactions of the Chinese State with regardtopropertyrights, is not just a subjective evaluation:According to the German newspaper Handelsblatt,several ten thousand cases per year are being negoti-ated in Chinese courts, with an upward trend. Notonlyforeign companies act as plaintiffs; Chinese com-panies are increasingly insisting on the protection ofIntellectual property. Judgments are usually givenagainst the infringer of the patent as well as againstthebuyer of the infringing product.For more details please contact,Susanne Beyer André WissenbergMarketing & Corporate Communications Marketing &Corporate CommunicationsTel. +49 2191 67-1526 Tel. +49 2191 67-2331Fax +49 2191 67-70 1526 Fax +49 2191 67-70 [email protected]@oerlikon.com

Judgment affirmed in the second instance

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Connecting you with right audience forstrengthening business promotionwww.textileassociationindia.org


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IntroductionChina is Africa's largest newinvestor, and the value of itstwo-way trade - at almost$300 billion in 2013 - is sec-ond only to that of the UnitedStates (US). It now has astrong and growing influencein core extractive industriesfrom Angola to Zambia, andcontinues to make inroads inmany other states. As Chinese

investment grows, however, so does concern about whatimplications this may have for Africa's political pro-cesses and for global strategic alignments.China is Africa's largest new investor, and the value ofits two-way trade - at almost $300 billion in 2013 - issecond only to that of the United States (US). It nowhas a strong and growing influence in core extractiveindustries from Angola to Zambia, and continues tomake inroads in many other states. As Chinese invest-ment grows, however, so does concern about what im-plications this may have for Africa's political processesand for global strategic alignments. "China's growingpresence has been complicating prospects for furtherdemocratization in Africa," because it often ignoresgovernance and human rights problems and makes in-vestments that strengthen autocratic regimes. There isalso concern among those who situate China's risewithin the context of a 'new scramble for Africa' thatis perceived as undermining its independence in wayseven more sinister than what occurred in the past.Theseconcerns are valid if one considers evidence fromcountries like Sudan and Angola, where China is per-ceived to have protected authoritarian regimes and has,in the case of Sudan, been implicated in the provisionof arms to governments that commit human rightsabuses in protracted conflicts.Chinese activities in Africa demonstrate the need forgreater nuance in the way we assess China's impact ondemocracy. The new framework highlights the variouscategories in which countries with high levels of Chi-nese engagement fall. These categories include stateswith major reserves of strategic resources - such asoil, copper, uranium and so on - on the one hand, andthose without these resources, on the other. There isalso a category of countries in which China has mainlya conflict resolution or political interest. It also drawsattention to the need to deconstruct China itself, by

challenging the myth of an all-powerful and omnipres-ent communist party structure. In this case, itpointsout the growing role of private individuals and compa-nies in foreign investments coming into African coun-tries from China. The section that follows attempts tosituate this analysis within Sudan and uses the Sudaneseexample not only to show the limits of China's impacton democracy, but also the extent to which it appearsto be responding tointernational pressures and criti-cisms.How (Not) to think about China's African Engage-mentThe precise effects of Chinese engagement in Africa is"conditioned by the nature of China's interests, themodesof engagement with particular polities and thepolitical systems operating in the country concerned".It providesa useful framework within which we canunderstand China's influence on political and gover-nance processesin Africa, by identifying three catego-ries in which China's activities can have specific im-pacts on democratization The first category are statescurrently undergoing democratic transitions, which lackstrategic resources but which serveas useful marketsand allies in geopolitical struggles. In these countries,China has not undermined democracy butrather hasoffered significant aid - supporting joint ventures,making technical grants and investing ininfrastructureGhana, Tanzania and Zambia can beplaced in this category. The second categories are statessuch as Angola, Sudan andNigeria, with significantstrategic resources. Here, China's role often exacer-bates the 'resource curse' and strengthensneo-patrimo-nial structures.In this regard, China is hardly a democratic influence.The third category are states such asLiberia that areemerging from conflict, where China makesimportantand helpful peacekeeping interventions.8 Astheseinterventions are within the framework of theUnited Nations (UN), China's actions contribute to thereintroduction andgradual consolidation of democracy.Categorization is important because it disaggregatesChina's Africanengagements in a way that allows us tosee how the specific conditions and nature of particu-lar states can shapeoutcomes. It thus avoids the all-too-familiar simplistic accounts of China as entrench-ing undemocratic regimes.While categorization privileges the conditions withinthe African states in which China operates, we cangoeven further to argue that the configuration of China's

This May Interest You!!Rise of China & Investment in Africa

Mr. Arvind Sinha

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investment decisions and actions also leave littlespacefor any generalization about how it impacts ondemocratic processes. Accounts of China as simplybeing bad fordemocratization in Africa, for instance,often do not take into account the wide variation inChinese investment andinfluence across the continent.While China is no doubt a central international playerin Angola and Sudan, forexample, it is less so in manyother African countries.In fact, as Cheeseman notes, "Between 2006 and 2008,25 percent oftwo-way trade between China and Africaoccurred with just one country - Angola.A further 18percent was accountedfor by South Africa." This im-plies that Chinese investment is concentrated in rela-tively few countries and shouldthus not be construedas a continent-wide 'scramble'. It is important to note,however, that in small economies such asZambia, evensmall Chinese investments can significantly alter eco-nomic patterns, shape labour mobility and relationsandunderpin economic recovery. In contexts like these, arelatively small investment can buy China huge influ-ence.The perception of China as an influential anti-demo-cratic force also assumes homogeneity to Chineseinvestmentdecision-making and planning that is largelynot correct. Even though Chinese investments are nodoubt headlined bylarge state-backed corporations, thegrowing role of private investors and entrepreneurswho often have direct contactwith local African peoplebut do not necessarily take orders from Beijing is oftenignored "The major state backed Chinese investors donot appear to have substantially integratedinto Africanbusiness communities yet, in contrast to entrepreneur-ial networks such as those in Mauritius withmoreembedded positions.""Some China specialists will seem somewhat surprisedto discover that [China] is not a monolithic politicalstructure with all power emanating from Beijing. Whilethis doesnot necessarily challenge the perception ofChina as an undemocratic influence, it does strengthenthe argument that Chinese influence can only be un-derstood accurately if it is unpacked and analyzedwithin specific contexts.The lesson to be drawn fromthis is that China's ability to influence political pro-cesses varies significantly across thecontinent, withdifferent countries offering different contexts and thusdifferent ways of understanding China's role.Anycomplete analysis of China's impact on democra-tization in Africa would therefore be nuanced, and thusavoid broadgeneralizations that often merely reproduceWestern fears about Chinese global geostrategic com-petition, rather thanthe realities of China's engagement

with the continent.As important as the above discussion is for how wecan think about Chinese impact on democratization inAfrica,perhaps the most significant indicator of whetherChina will, in the long run, make it less likely forAfrica to democratize isto be found in the way Chi-nese authorities have responded to international criti-cism of its role in African states. Sudan, themost ob-vious example of China's support for authoritarianforces, shows that it is important to take note ofsignificantchanges in Chinese African policy and toacknowledge the role that the growing complexity inChina-Africa relationshas played in forcing Chinagradually to reconfigure its much-criticized 'non-in-tervention' policy. In short, China isextracting impor-tant lessons from its increasingly complexrelationshipwith Africa and appears to be taking steps -albeit ten-tative and sometimes even cynical - towards being anet promoter rather than an enemy of Africa'sbeleaguereddemocracy.It should be noted that Chinese influence in Sudan.The Sudanese oil industry had become the mostimportantarea of cooperation between both states,underpinning Chinese diplomatic protection and armstransfers. Asthe humanitarian crisis unfolded in Darfur,however, China faced growing international condem-nation for itscontinued support for Sudanese presidentOmar al-Bashir's government and for ignoring mount-ing evidence that theSudanese government may becommitting crimes against humanity. China counteredthis by arguing that international cooperation and peacecan only be guaranteed by the principles of non-inter-ference, mutual respect and mutual benefit. This logicwas both self-serving for China and beneficial toBashir's regime. In the case of China, it obviouslyyielded dividends in increased investments and accessto the oil fields in Sudan to feed its voracious indus-trial expansion.It also allowed China to pursue its policy of limitingWestern influence wherever it can, and promoting amultipolar vision of global politics that recognizedChina's own claim as a key pole. For the Bashir re-gime, it provided unprecedented revenue that largelyinsulated it from Western pressure and encouraged itto continue its defiance of global opinion. Even thoughthe NIF regime never had any credible democraticcredentials, it is easy to discern how the patterns ofuncritical Chinese investments and diplomatic protec-tion may have further deepened its resolve and capa-bility toresist international pressure for democratiza-tion and for preventing human rights abuses in thecountry. Chinesesupport was condemned by Western

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governments and, by 2003; this started to show signsof straining China'srelationship with the rest of Africa.To put China's support for Bashir's authoritarian appa-ratus in perspective, one may look to data on Chinesearms sales and transfers to Africa. According to the2007 Small Arms Survey, between 2002 and 2005,China was the largest supplier of military weaponsand small arms to Sudan. In fact, by the 1990s, Chinahad helped Sudan develop a domestic arms industrythat has no doubt fuelled violence all over the region.Second to the US, China is the largest supplier of armsto Africa. In fact, a good percentage of its militaryexports are small arms, which are now infamous in-struments for state repression and brutality.Of course, it may be argued that simply by providingAfrican states with new investment options and thusundermining the leverage Western donors have to de-mand democratic reforms, China creates a new incen-tive for Africa's notoriously undemocratic governingelite to postpone or even truncate reforms. This argu-ment is, however, not enough to dismiss China as anundemocratic influence in Africa. As the Sudaneseexample shows, China is capable of responding tointernational opinion and modifying its behavior asappropriate. Even though it will be farfetched to ex-pect that China will, in the near future, advanceneoliberal political reforms in the way the West does(China itself being a one-party state), it can and doesplay constructive roles in encouraging stability andgovernance reforms - even if these are heavily influ-enced by its own interests. This self-serving approachto reform is, however, not unique to China, as theWest's relations with President YoweriMuseveni'sUganda clearly shows. What is thus critical to assess-ing China's 'democratic credentials' in Africa is to avoidsimplistic generalisations and to acknowledge the dy-namism of China's Africa policy - underpinned, as itwere by the Chinese vision of its interests in aglobalised world.ConclusionThis article argues that Chinese impact on democrati-zation in Africa is highly varied and context-specific.Using categorization, the specific internal conditionsof African states predispose them to certain influencesfrom China. Where the state is transitioning to democ-racy and enjoying relative stability, China often sup-ports rather than disrupts democratic progress. Statessuch as Ghana, Zambia and Tanzania fall into thiscategory. Where the state possesses strategic resources,China often exacerbates the 'resource curse' andstrengthens neopatrimonial structures and corruption.In these type of cases, China is usually a problem for

democratization. States such as Angola, Nigeria andSudan are good examples here. Where states are inpost-conflict stages - for instance, Liberia - Chinausually plays useful roles within multilateral peace-keeping frameworks. In this sense, it impacts posi-tively on democratization, as it helps to consolidatepeace and support electoral and other such institutionalstructures.Categorization is further underpinned by China's owninternal dynamics and the way it conceptualizes itsinterests. China's investments and impacts are far moreconcentrated in a few countries in Africa than the dis-course about a 'new Sinophere' suggests. Even whereChina has significant presence, the actors should bedisaggregated to account for the growing relevance ofprivate Chinese investors and embedded social net-works, which operate outside the control of Beijing.These growing networks, if understood, could havesignificant implications for how we think about China'sability to direct its relations with African states cen-trally. While categorization is useful, in light of themore recent evolution of Chinese African policy, un-derstanding its implications for democracy will requiretaking account of how China responds to feedbackfrom the international community and what this maytell us about how it will interact with democratizationon the continent in the near future. The most obviousexample of China's anti-democratic impact on an Af-rican state is Sudan, which shows how China's prob-lematic 'non-intervention' policy has gradually becomemuted. With the expansion of its economic engage-ments with Sudan, the profound political implicationsof Sino-Sudanese relations have become more obvi-ous, and China has responded accordingly to this newcomplexity.As a state now driven by pragmatic rather than ideo-logical considerations, China can be expected increas-ingly to support measures that will guarantee its in-vestments, promote stability and enhance its globalstanding. If, in doing this, it continues to respond tointernational pressures about its relations with Africangovernments, one may be cautiously optimistic aboutthe net prospects of China as a player in African de-mocratization.Sourced & Compiled byMr. ArvindSinha- CEO, M/s. Business Advisors Group,MumbaiCell No. 9820062612, 8108612612Email ID : [email protected] /

[email protected]

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New structures and issuers andgreater standardization are pushingissuance in the global sukuk mar-ket.Sukuk issuance in 2014 is estimatedat $130 billion, with outstandingissuance continuing to grow. Thesukuk market remains largely sov-ereign and quasi-sovereign issuers,

but private-sector issuance is on the rise. There is agrowing appeal of sukuk financing, with an increasingawareness among conventional investors of Islamicfinancing and rising appetite in non-Muslim countries,particularly for access to long-term financing.Sukuk financing is increasingly cross-border, as for-eign issuers tap local and regional funds. This move isfacilitating more intraregional flows, both in Gulfcountries and in Asia, according to Siew Suet Ming,head of structured finance at Rating Agency Malaysia.The move can help to lower the cost of funding.Innovation is also driving issuance. Diversification insukuk offerings is growing, providing new structuresand benefits to investors and issuers-meeting marketdemand and specific financing needs. Sophisticatedsukuk deals, including the use of hybrid structures-which often involve the use of more than one Islamiccontract-and the emergence of new alternative assetclasses, point to the growing comfort of global inves-tors in sukuk instruments.The implementation of Basel III has led to Islamicfirms' issuing Basel III?compliant sukuk instrumentsto satisfy revised capital standards, according to Ku-wait Finance House. Islamic banks in the UAE, SaudiArabia, Turkey and Malaysia have issued such innova-tive sukuk instruments. Abu Dhabi Islamic Bank wasthe first to launch this type of issue in late 2012, andothers have followed, including Dubai Islamic Bank'sperpetual $1 billion Tier 1 sukuk in March 2013. Per-petual tenor debt has no maturity date, but generally iscallable (can be repaid) on a specified date.The DIB deal had a profit rate of 6.25% and was 14times oversubscribed. In early 2014, Malaysia'sAmIslamic Bank was the first to use the shariah-com-pliant contract of murabaha (debt-backed) for structur-ing this type of sukuk. The bank's 200 million Malay-sian ringgit ($56 million) Basel III-compliant Tier 2

This May Interest You!!Innovation in Islamic Finance

Financing Innovation Drives Growthsubordinated sukukmurabahah is callable after fiveyears, has a semiannual profit rate of 5.07%, and wasissued under its 3 billion Malaysian ringgit subordi-nated sukukmurabahah program.Malaysia Building Society issued the world's first 3billion ringgit ($844 million) structured covered sukukcommodity murabaha program with dual recourse struc-ture and backed by financing receivables. Perpetualsukuk, pioneered by Abu Dhabi Islamic Bank, areincreasingly being issued by corporates. Saudi premiumfood group Almarai issued the first-ever Saudiriyal?based perpetual sukuk in late 2013.Corporates in Malaysia and the Middle East are in-creasingly using intangible assets in innovative sukukstructures. This includes airtime vouchers, broadbandunits and intellectual property. Banks in the MiddleEast are seeing increased interest from non-Islamiccorporates for sukuk issuance, and it is an area thatthey want to grow.Last year saw a number of other firsts for the sukukindustry. The UK government, aiming to become aWestern center for Islamic finance, became the firstcountry outside the Islamic world to issue a sovereignsukuk. The £200 million ($302 million) issue was well-received by investors from the Middle East, Asia andthe UK. The sukuk used the al-Ijara (asset-backed)structure-with rental payments on property providingthe income for investors.Hong Kong also tapped the sukuk market in 2014-selling $1 billion of sovereign sukuk in its first-everissue of the securities. Other Asian countries that is-sued sovereign sukuk in 2014 included Malaysia, In-donesia and Pakistan.The Indonesian transaction represented an importantinnovation in the way that sovereigns can issue sukukto fund public infrastructure development projects,notes UAE-based partner of White & Case, ShibeerAhmed. In late 2014, South Africa launched its firstsovereign sukuk, a $500 million issue. Part of its aimis to diversify its funding sources and tap into thewealth of the GCC. Morocco, Tunisia and Kenya arelikely to issue sukuk going forward. Gambia has al-ready issued a short term, local currency sukuk, ashave Nigeria and Sudan, and Senegal raised more than$200 million in its first local currency Islamic bond inearly 2014. In late 2014, Luxembourg issued a •200

Mr. ArvindSinha

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million ($254 million) sukuk.There remains a strong pipeline of sukuk issuance,particularly on the sovereign side. Demand shouldremain solid in 2015, although the current weak oilprice may delay issuance. Both the UK and Hong Kongsovereign issues have been important, according tomany Gulf-based banks, as they have broadened theprofile and recognition of sukuk.HARIAH-COMPLIANT?Ming, Rating Agency Malaysia (RAM): As foreignissuers tap local and regional funds, it is facilitatingmore intraregional flows.Although Islamic financing continues to expand, thereremains debate about the shariah compliance of someIslamic financing products. Bai' al 'inah, where thereis a transaction of buying and selling between thecustomer and the financial institution, is one suchproduct. In Malaysia the shariah scholars allowed itdespite the fact that they agree that the majority ofscholars and Islamic financial institutions prohibit thetransaction because of its resemblance to a loan.Shariah-compliant credit cards and mortgages havegrown strongly over the past few years in the MiddleEast. Banks, including Dubai Islamic Bank (DIB), haveseen Islamic credit card issuance increase significantly.International banks such as Standard Chartered offer awide range of Islamic financing products. Each of thebank's shariah products is reviewed and approved byworld-renowned shariah scholars.Islamic banks, including Abu Dhabi Islamic Bank,Emirates Islamic Bank, Noor Bank and Al Hilal Bank,are all keen to gain market share from conventionalbanks, particularly on the consumer banking side. Is-lamic banking has received a considerable boost, withshariah-compliant financial products and services be-ginning to find greater acceptance and recognition inthe general market, according to Faisal Aqil, the deputychief executive of consumer wealth management atEmirates Islamic Bank.Since public opinion varies on Islamic financing prod-ucts, some observers have called for a global centralreligious authority to ensure IFIs comply with shariahon a uniform, global basis. This suggestion would bedifficult to implement consistently, worldwide. Evenin the case of internationally accepted financial stan-dards, such as those promulgated by the Basel Com-mittee, there is room for different interpretations.Nonetheless, the sukuk market is becoming more har-monized with common standards, which is a comfortto investors and issuers worried about the risks asso-

ciated with such products, and should spur further sukukissuance. The increase in cross-border transactionsshould lead to greater convergence between sukukmarkets and a more consistent approach to the shariahcompliance of sukuk structures.REAL ESTATE FINANCINGReal estate has been an important asset class for Is-lamic financing transactions. Islamic mortgages forhouse purchases are common, but more-sophisticatedcommercial transactions are becoming increasinglyprevalent.Islamic finance has often used real estate as an invest-able, tangible asset class on which to base its financialstructures. The focus has tended to be on prime assets-for example, hotels or office buildings. However, overthe past few years, Islamic banks have increasinglyalso provided mezzanine finance. In such structures, aconventional bank lends the majority of the debt on aninterest payment basis, the investors inject their eq-uity, and the mezzanine finance tranche is put into thestructure in an Islamic-compliant way.In the UAE real estate sector, DIB has one of thelargest market shares in commercial real estate financ-ing and is supporting the industry by providing creditfacilities to major local and international contractingand engineering companies. DIB plays a major role insupporting real estate developments. Its work includesacting for a consortium on the £400 million purchaseand financing of the Battersea Power Station in Lon-don.Qatar's Barwa Bank recently led syndication for thefinancing of the Gold Line of the Doha Metro railproject. The financing was for 3.65 billion Qatari riyals(over $1 billion), and the facilities include guaranteesand working capital financing. Another lead arrangeron this deal was Qatar International Islamic Bank.Total Islamic finance assets were expected to reach$2.1 trillion at year-end 2014, with banking assets of$1.6 trillion. An annual growth rate of between 15%and 20% is likely to be maintained in the next fewyears, with growth being driven by an increasing rangeof products and financing techniques and wider accep-tance of this type of funding.Sourced & Compiled byMr. ArvindSinha - CEOM/s. Business Advisors GroupMumbaiCell No. 9820062612 / 8108612612Email ID : [email protected] /

[email protected]

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Remscheid, January 21, 2015 - more than 120 custom-ers from all around the world followed BB Engineer-ing GmbH's (BBE) invitation to join the unveiling ofits new machine during an Open House Event at itsfacilities in Remscheid, Germany, on January 21, 2015.Visitors saw the world's first "VarioFil R+" bottle-to-POY line in operation, producing 150f48 dope-dyedblack yarn.

The new VarioFil R+ is the world's first POY spinningline which uses recycled bottle flakes as feedstock fordope-dyed textile POY. The line - developed by thesubsidiary company of OerlikonBarmag - providesseveral technological features such as a special extru-sion system for bottle flake materials, the latest meter-ing and blending technology for dope-dyeing and anadvanced 2-step melt filtration. The result is a highquality dope-dyed POY. The turnkey machine com-prises 4 spinning positions, each equipped with anOerlikonBarmag 10-end WINGS® POY winder.Bottle flakes instead of rPET chips: VarioFil R+reduces spinning process for one stepPET has become the primary material for beveragepackaging, billions of PET bottles are used worldwideeach year. This huge quantity of PET bottles, usuallydisposed as waste after initial use, is a perfect sourceof raw material for the sustainable production of syn-thetic fibers. Furthermore, the reutilization of resourcesand raw materials, along with energy saving produc-tion processes, are becoming increasingly popular. TheVarioFil® R+ concept combines all these trends. Ituses PET bottle flakes as a raw material, which avoidsthe additional pelletizing of bottle flakes into rPETchips. This leads to a significant advantage in terms ofinvestment and energy costs. It also provides the latesttechnology for dope-dyeing, which is the most resource-saving dyeing process. Hence, the development of

VarioFil® R+ underlines the trend of increasing de-mand for textiles made from yarns which have a'sustainablebackground'. It also provides the possibil-ity for recycling companies to sell high-quality yarnsinstead of bottle flakes, therefore generating addedvalue.

Downstream with OerlikonBarmag'seAFK textur-ing machine proves yarn qualityFurther Open House attractions were the live presen-tation of the texturizing process, converting the manu-factured rPOY into DTY on OerlikonBarmag'seAFKtexturizing machine, as well as BBE's brand-new clean-ing system for melt filters, known as White FilterCleaning WFC. WFC allows the cleaning of melt fil-ters, but also of other melt-contaminated parts withoutany chemical solvents and is a good complementarysystem for the VarioFil R+ line to clean its filtrationequipment.A virtual tour through the new VarioFil® R+ line aswell as an impressive insight into the winder assemblydepartment of OerlikonBarmag, the origin of the fa-mous WINGS POY winder, and several technical pre-sentations covering the fields of recycling, yarn pro-duction from recycled feedstock and dope-dyeing allmade the Open House an informative day for all par-ticipants.

Open House Event at BB EngineeringVarioFil R+: World's first bottle-to-POY spinning line on display

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Textsmile

Attending a wedding for the first time, a little girlwhispered to her mother, "why is the bride dressedin white?" "Because white is the color of happi-ness," her mother explained. "And today is the hap-piest day in her life." The child thought about thisfor a moment. "So why is the groom wearing black?"


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UebachPalenberg, Germany - 16.01.2015 - The In-dian textile industry is undergoing radical change.More and more companies are relying onhigh lev-els of automation in ring spinning mills and pow-erful high-speed machines to achieve stronggrowthrates. With the Zinser 72, Schlafhorst has devel-oped a generation of machines tailor-madepreciselyfor the Indian market. It is super long, super fastand ideal as a high-speed pace setter in afully au-tomated linked system from the roving frame tothe winding machine.

Zinser 72: For a rapid return on investmentIn the ZinserRing 72 ring spinning machine, Schlafhorstoffers spinning mills a highly productive andeconomicallyconvincing platform for further growthand greater profitability. The ZinserRing 72 with 1,920spindlesis especially economical in production, con-tributing to revenue growth. The ZinserImpact 72compactspinning machine is an impressive exponentof self-cleaning compact spinning technology.

Zinser 72

The high-quality processing of the Zinser 72 allows itto stay in production continuously around the clockwithup to 25,000 rpm on all spinning positions. Shiftfor shift, the high delivery speeds of the Zinser 72offer moreyarn than other ring spinning machines.Thanks to rings that can be centred, high-speed spindlesand thehigh-speed spinning software, OptiStep, Zinser72 machines produce perfect bobbins with more yarn.

The Zinser 72 reveals its full strength in a fully auto-mated linked system - as a pace setter between therovingframes and automatic winding machines. Fittedas standard with CoWeMat, the most reliable doffer

inthe world, the Zinser 72 can be combined with allcommon roving frames and automatic winding ma-chines ina fully automated linked system. The goldstandard in automation is Schlafhorst's single-sourcecompletesolution: from the Zinser roving frame to theZinserRing 72 or ZinserImpact 72 and Autoconer X5Type V.

Zinser 670 roving frame - individual automationfor maximum qualityThe integrated automatic doffer and the RoWeLiftautomatic bobbin transfer station are the keys toincreasedautomation and to bobbin handling withoutthe need for manual intervention. The Zinser 670 rov-ing frame isthe only machine of its type that also of-fers an integrated tube cleaner and tube storage. Theseautomationunits also permit effective utilisation of theraw material.

Contactless and accurate transportation of the sen-sitive roving bobbins protects yarn qualityEvery spinning mill makes different demands on anautomated roving bobbin transport system.Schlafhorst'sCimTracksystem for creel automation of-fers the right solution for all situations. Highly indi-vidual, customized planning is possible, from the low-cost variant with manually operated trolley trains to afully automatedsystem with CimTrack 3 or CimTrack 4.

In spinning mills with a continuous productionprogramme, the FixFlow system, a fixed link betweenone ormore roving frames and a group of ring spin-ning machines, makes sense. The full packages andemptytubes run in a continuous circuit between themachines. The FlexFlow system is used in flexibleproductionprogrammes with frequent lot changes. Theflexible assignment of roving frames to ring spinningmachinesfacilitates swift, easy adaptation to changesin production conditions.

Zinser 670

More growth through perfect automationThe Zinser 72 in a fully automated linked system

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Reduced labour costs and maximum efficiency withthe ZinserCoWeMatFast, reliable automatic bobbin changing on the Zinser72 ring spinning machine by the CoWeMat makesitpossible to utilize the production capacity to opti-mum effect, as it performs the work arising at inter-vals withoutthe need for staff. Bottlenecks, waitingtimes and downtimes are non-existent compared withinstallationswith manual doffing, ensuring permanentlyhigh efficiency ratings for the ring spinning mill. Staff-ing costs canbe reduced by up to 50 %.

ZinserCoWeMat 396 F and ZinserCoWeMat 396V: automated doffing with full flexibility with thestand-alone solution, or maximum efficiency in alinked systemThe Zinser 72 series as a standalone machine withCoWeMat 396 F fits every space situation because itis spatially independent of the winding machine. Itpermits flexible production and saves on personnel inparticularthanks to CoWeFeed's unique unsorted tubefeeding.

The Zinser 72 series linked machine with CoWeMat396 V can be combined with every commerciallyavailablewinding machine and reduces labour and spacerequirements to a minimum. The linked solutionguaranteesminimum logistics costs and maximum qual-ity assurance - maximum efficiency in constantproductionand for large lots.

ZinserBobbinTray - for highest productivityThe ZinserBobbinTray system transports bobbins andempty tubes without contact, thus ensuring highZinseryarn quality. Tray moving mechanisms that are sus-ceptible to malfunctioning are not used. Theindividuallyguided, round BobbinTrays and the con-veyor belt ensure precise positioning during doffingand aneven, rapid and reliable material flow betweenthe ring spinning and winding machines.

Autoconer X5, Type V - the completion for fullyautomated ring spinningThe Autoconer Type V - the direct link between thering spinning machine and the package winder -alreadysaves around 30 - 40 % on staff costs (com-pared with RM) in practice, and this trend is rising.But apartfrom economic efficiency, automation offersanother convincing argument - quality: the linked sys-tem raisesthe yarn and package quality to the abso-lutely highest level. The production capacities of thespinning andwinding machine are coordinated to oneanother in the optimum manner for greater efficiency,

i.e. for morekilograms of yarn each day.

Schlafhorst supplies made-to-measure linked solutionsthat suit customer's plant organization perfectly.Whether as a direct link without a bobbin bridge orwith bobbin bridge or alternatively also as anunderfloorlink, the Autoconer machine concept satis-fies every requirement. Every bobbin reaches the in-tended windingunit safely and completely intact.

Most modern material flow technology, high cycle rates,an energy-saving transport system andenergysavingprocess sequences are characteristics ofthe Autoconer. Security and reliability are guaranteed.

As atreat and bonus, customers can keep an eye on thequality produced by their ring spinning machinecontinuouslyonline using the optionally available SPIDsystem, to maintain quality at the highest level. As anautomationsolution with its intelligent material flowsystem FlowShare FX and the proven, stable Caddytransportsystem, the Autoconer X5 is the benchmarkin automation.

Autoconer X5

A special advantage of the Autoconer, type V is itsenergy-saving mode to utilize further energy-savingpotential.If the Autoconer has wound all its bobbinsand the ring spinning machine is still engaged inproductionof the new take-up, the winding machinecan switch to energy saving mode for reduction in thepowertake-up of the suction system. Everything is thenreactivated in good time for the transfer of the newbobbins.

The monitoring tasks of the operators are clearlyorganised and characterised by short distances. TheInformatoris located directly on the machining center,so the operator is only a couple of steps away fromtheoperating terminal of the ring spinning machine and

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can quickly survey the production sequences and dataofboth machines.

Unique Plant Control System for spinning and wind-ing data analysis at a glanceCollecting data, speeding up information flow, usingstaff and machines better - with the SchlafhorstPlantControl System the customers systematically in-crease the quality and economic efficiency of theirspinningmill. Variable connection options for individualmachines, plants and combinations make it easy to getanoverview about all the production and quality data.Data access is possible at any time and from any PC-from any of your operating sites' machines networkedanywhere in the world. Absolutely unique in theringspinning world is the possibility to connect Zinserroving frames, Zinser ring spinning machines andAutoconerwinding machines to one data managementsystem, to Plant Control System. With this systemyouhave not only a completely automatic spinning millfrom roving to winding; you also have access to alltheproduction and quality data from this completesolution at a glance. This can't offer any other supplierin theworld.

The right machine at the right timeThe SchlafhorstZinser 72 is the right machine at the

right time, because India is currently experiencingsignsof growth and automation. The forward-lookingIndian Government is promoting the automation of thetextileindustry and the establishment of state-of-the-art, textile industrial parks. Under these circumstances,theZinser 72 is the optimal investment decision.

It is highly productive, absolutely reliable and guaran-tees thehigh quality currently in demand by today'stextile markets. With tailor-made automation solutionsbased onthe Zinser 72, the Schlafhorst engineers areimplementing highly productive ring spinning andcompact spinningmachines for their Indian customers,which will generate strong growth and ensure maxi-mum profits.Media contactsBirgit JansenExpert Communication ZinserSchlafhorstZweigniederlassung derSaurer Germany GmbH & Co. KGCarlstr. 6052531 Übach-PalenbergGermanyT + 49 2451 905 [email protected]

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Australia's Deakin University and Technical Textilesand Non Wovens Association will host the 13th AsianTextile Conference(ATC-13)on behalf of the Federa-tion of Asian Professional Textile Associations(FAPTA).The Asian Textile Conference (ATC) is one of theworld-leading conferences in the textile field and takesplace biannually at Asian countries in turn. ATC-13will be held from 3 to 6 November 2015 in the Aus-tralian coastal city of Geelong, Victoria.The Call for Papers for this conference is now open.Researchers from academia and industry are invited tosubmit abstracts on papers and / or posters through theconference website www.atc-13.org."It is an honour for Australia to host this importantconference for the advancement of fibres and textilesin the many fields of use today and applications tomeet future needs of society," says Professor XungaiWang, Director of the Australian Future Fibres Re-search and Innovation Centre (AFFRIC) and Institute

for Frontier Materials (IFM) at Deakin University, andAcademic Chair of the conference organising commit-tee."ATC-13 will provide global scientists and researchersin all textile fields with the platform to share newknowledge, set directions and goals for the progress oftextile science and engineering for the next decade,"says Professor Wang.TTNA Executive Manager, MsKerryn Caulfield said:"Textiles play vital roles in industry and every aspectof people's daily lives. Whether derived from naturalor man-made fibres, interdisciplinary collaboration isthe key solution for the development of innovativehigh performance textiles and the future growth of theindustry."The Call for Papers is scheduled to close on 15 April2015.For further information and to register for updates onthe conference please visit thewebsitewww.atc-13.org

Australia to host13th Asian Textile Conference


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Delegation of The Textile Association (India) lead by National President ArvindSinha, met H.E. ChakramonPhasukavanich,Minister of Industry, Government of Kingdom of Thailand and invited him to inaugurate Global Textile Congress 2015 on13th, 14th & 15th February, 2015. Hon'ble Minister has very kindly agreed to inaugurate the conference on 13th of Februaryat 10 A.M at Hotel Ambassador Bangkok.Arvind Sinha, President the Textile Association (India), sincerely thanked H.E. Chakramon Phasukavanich, Minister ofIndustry for his gesture.

From L to R: Mr. N.K. Maheshwari, President, Indo Thai Synthetics Co. Ltd., Ms. K. Mayuree, President, FibreManufacture Association, Thailand, Mr. Arvind Sinha, National President, The Textile Association (India), H. E.

Chakramon Phasukavanich, Minister of Industry, Government of Thailand, Officials from Ministry of Industry, Thailand,Mr. R. K. Vij, Conference Chairman, The Textile Association (India), Mr. Anil Purohit, Indo Thai Synthetics, Thailand,

Mr. Somsak Srisuponvanit, Executive Director, The National Federation of Thai Textile Industries, Thailand

TAI Delegations meeting withMinister of Industry, Government of Thailand

TAI Delegations meeting with Minister of Industry, Government of Thailand in Bangkokon 22nd January 2015 in his office

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Obituary

Professor Durgam V. MuniswamyProfessor Durgam V Muniswamy, former Principal ofGSKSJT Institute, an expert in fabric structure, passed awayat the age of 87 years on 05th February, 2015 at Banga-lore.Prof. Muniswamy was the President of the Textile Asso-ciation (India) - Karnataka Unit for 11 years from 1997 to2008. He was also very active in the activities of Institu-tion of Engineers and was initiative in starting the BapujiInstitute of Engineering and Technology (BIET) atDavanagere and established Textile Division. Prof.Muniswamy was also visiting professor for Bangalore Uni-versity, Department of Apparel Technology and Manage-ment. He was honoured with "Kempegowda Award" at

his age of 83 by Bruhat Bangalore Mahanagara Palika inApril 2011.He had his post-graduation at Leeds University and devel-oped number of formulas and equations for fabric geom-etry. He underwent training at Japan for Fishing Nets. Hehas written number of books and articles on fabric con-struction such as Hand book of Cotton Fabrics, RayonFabrics, Know your Fabrics and Classification of Fabrics-A New Approach, Vasana, Vol. 1, 2006, The need forClassification of Fabrics, Fibres2fashion, A Fresh approachto Fabric Quality Assessment, Fibre2Fashion. InHandbookof Cotton FabricsVol. I book,he has listed 2629 varietiesof fabrics and discussed their constructions and properties.Prof. Muniswamy has developed a method for classifyingthe fabrics as "VERY GOOD", "GOOD", "AVERAGE"and "BELOW AVERAGE" quality Fabrics and developedsoftware which is available in CD form. This achievementwas done when he was 80 years. He has guided number ofpost graduate students in their project works. He was veryregular in taking classes, even up to the age of 82 years.The Textile Association (India) offers with deep heartfeltcondolence to the departed soul and prayalmighty to be-stow eternal peace to the departed souls.


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PHD Chamber organized a Conference on 'PHDmanufacturing Signature Series 2015- Zed Effect'on 19th February 2015 at PHD House, New Delhiwhich was inaugurated by Shri Narendra Singh Tomar,Hon'ble Union Minister of Steel and Mines, Govt. ofIndia.

Mr. Alok B Shriram, Senior Vice President, PHDChamber while welcoming Shri Narendra Singh TomarHighlighted that India's manufacturing sector couldreach USD 1 trillion by 2025. This could be achievedon the back of the continually growing demand in thecountry and the inclination of multinational corpora-tions to establish low-cost plants in India. Up to 90million domestic jobs could be created by 2025, withthe manufacturing sector contributing to about 25-30per cent of India's gross domestic product (GDP).

L to R: Mr. Vivek Seigell, Senior Secretary,PHD Chamber; Mr. D.P. Deshpande, Managing Director,

Tata Sponge Iron Limited; Mr. Alok B. Shriram,President, PHD Chamber; Shri Narendra Singh Tomar,

Union Minister of Steel and Mines, Govt. of India;Mr. Anil Khaitan, Chairman, Industry Affairs Committee,PHD Chamber; Mr. Saurabh Sanyal, Secretary General,

PHD Chamber

According to World Bank estimates, simply halvingthe delays due to road blocks, tolls and other stop-pages could cut freight times by some 20-30 percentand logistics costs by an even higher 30-40 percent.This alone can go a long way in boosting the competi-tiveness of India's key manufacturing sectors by 3 to4 percent of net sales, thereby helping India return toa high growth trajectory and enabling large scale jobcreation, he added.

L to R: Mr. Vivek Seigell, Senior Secretary,PHD Chamber; Mr. Easwaran Subramanian,

Senior Director - Consulting, Deloitte Touche TohmatsuIndia Private Limited ; Mr. Anil Khaitan, Chairman,

Industry Affairs Committee, PHD Chamber;Mr. D. P. Deshpande, Managing Director, Tata Sponge

Iron Limited; Mr. Rajiv Bajaj, Partner, Nomura ResearchInstitute India (NRI)

He emphasized that steel is the core sector for devel-opment of any economy.Hoping to benefit from the 'Make in India' programme,all steel producers would look to expand their capacityto about 100 - 110 million tonnes per annum. Cur-rently the total output stood at above 83.2 milliontonnes in the year 2014, cementing India's position asthe fourth-largest steel producer for fifth year now ina row. The sector is also looking to benefit from thefall in iron ore prices to five-year low levels, as alsofrom the declining coking coal prices.

Mr. Anil Khaitan, Chairman, Industry Affairs Commit-tee, PHD Chamber while felicitating the Chief Guestand participants said Studies conducted on the manu-facturing industry have concluded that India has aworking population of 75%. Out of this, only 600million have acquired education till middle school. Dueto this reason, the manufacturing industry in India,which is labor intensive, can provide the requisitenumber of employment units in the country. Studieshave indicated that the productivity of the manufactur-ing industry in India is approximately 1/5th of theproductivity in the manufacturing industry of UnitedStates of America. It is about ½ as compared to theproductivity levels in South Korea as well as Taiwan.

Conference on 'PHD Manufacturing SignatureSeries 2015- Zed Effect'

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Sources estimates that the higher input costs for theIndian manufacturing sector as a result of cascadingeffect of indirect taxes on selling prices of commodi-ties, higher cost of utilities like power, railway trans-port, water, higher cost of finance and high transac-tions costs puts the sector at a severe disadvantage ascompared to its Asian counterparts, he added.

Mr. Naveen Jindal, Chairman, Jindal Steel and PowerLtd demanded transparent policies from the govern-ment for all sectors including Steel, Coal and Minesso that no ambiguity prevails and business is conductedwith ease and fairly.

Mr. Jindal said that the scarcity of Non Cooking coaland Iron ore is the major concern for the steel sector.India has more than 200 coal blocks but only 30 coalblocks has been started so far. At the time of indepen-dence, India and China were producing the same vol-ume of steel whereas now China is producing 822 MTand India could be able to touch at appx.85 MT. Gov-ernment should take imperative steps to encouragemanufacturing like expansion of ports, Railway Net-work etc., he added.Shri Narendra Singh Tomar, Hon'ble Union Ministerof Steel and Mines said that the Ministry of Steel ismaking necessary provisioning in the law to involveprivate sector participation in exploration of mines andminerals and also empowering those to compensatethe cost involved in exploration.

L to R: Mr. Naveen Jindal, Chairman, Jindal Steel andPower Ltd being presented a memento from Mr. Alok B.

Shriram, President, PHD Chamber

He said that the auctioning would be only channelavailable for obtaining mines and minerals reserves inall categories including captive mines and merchantmines and even a foreign entity such as POSCO wouldhave to be awarded mining and mineral blocks through

auction process even though it has been seeking toinvest in India in its mines and minerals segment forover a decade.

By the month of May 2015, the ministry of steel andmines will finalize the new auction rules and regula-tions for future as for which the mines and mineralsresources be awarded and the new rules and regula-tions finalized by the centre be referred to states suchas Odisha, Chhattisgarh, Jharkhand.

He also apprised participants about the initiative takenby the government to strengthen the steel sector byincreasing the production of iron ore and also restrictunwarranted imports to save the interest of domesticmanufacturers.

Mr D P Deshpande, Managing Director, Tata SpongeIron Ltd said that large unorganized sector serves thesteel manufacturing industry and the manufacturersmust owe the responsibility to organize them, to en-able them to produce good quality products and be-come competitive like Tata follows the model of TQM(Total Quality Management).

L to R: Mr. Alok B. Shriram, President, PHD Chamberpresenting a memento to Shri Narendra Singh Tomar,

Union Minister of Steel and Mines, Govt. of India

Recent falling IIP figures in manufacturing are a cursefor economy. The steel demand is low in the recentpast which in turn is creating pressure on steel domes-tic prices. According to a McKinsey report, lack offacilities in Infrastructure and Logistics amounts toINR 45 billion which is equal to 4.3% of India's GDP.

India has an advantage of demographic dividendwherein it is easy to find employees for different jobs.India must produce good quality products to enablegrowth in exports and to reduce the trade deficit.

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Mr. Easwaran Subramanian, Senior Director - Con-sulting, Deloitte Touche Tohmatsu India Private Lim-ited said it was the need of hour that private industryplayers need to invest in Research and development toencourage the innovation and new technologies whichwill lead to zero effect and zero defect. India has tofocus on increasing its productivity which increasedby .4% in comparison to last year whereas China is

more than doubled its productivity.

Mr. Rajiv Bajaj, Partner, Nomura Research InstituteIndia (NRI) said that despite tough conditions to dobusiness in India, Automotive industry has markedIndia's position in the world. Today, India is the largesttractor producer, 2nd largest two wheeler producersand 3rd largest Truck and Bus producer in the world.

The new R 60 automated rotor spinning machineoffers the accumulated productivity of up to 600rotors. The high yarn quality achieved with the S?60spinning box and the excellent package build en-sure maximum efficiency in downstream processes.

The energy-saving technology of the R 60 has enabledRieter to introduce a further extension in machinelength. The first machines with 600 spinning positionsare already operating successfully in a number of spin-ning mills worldwide. Customers appreciate the reli-ability and economy of these machines.

The longest rotor spinning machine

Yarns of high quality and tenacityThe yarn quality achieved on the R 60 with the S 60spinning box stands out in all comparisons by virtueof its higher tenacity and regularity, as well as havingfewer imperfections. This is achieved by the innova-tive spinning geometry and the resulting improvementin spinning stability. These advantages are exploitedeven more economically on the long machine.

Minimal energy consumptionThe R 60 requires some 10?% less energy than otherrotor spinning machines. The energy consumption ofrotor spinning machines depends mainly on the opti-mal structure of the volumetric flow of the spinningair and losses in the power electronics. Central drivestherefore still have advantages over individual driveswith large numbers of decentralized electronic compo-nents. On-going comparative measurements by cus-

tomers prove the R 60's advantage of 10 % lowerenergy consumption.

Ideal flexibilityThe option of independent machine sides enables theR 60 to be operated virtually as flexibly as two ma-chines. New safety devices even make it possible toperform maintenance and cleaning work on the spin-ning positions and head and foot stock on one side inone shift, while production continues on the other side.Maintenance on the other side of the machine can thenbe scheduled for another shift without additional inter-ruptions to production being necessary as a result.

Good for coarse-count yarns and frequentqualitycutsThe option of six robots also enables production to beperformed in extreme applications (short package run-ning times, very coarse yarns, high ends down fre-quencies) with maximum efficiency on a machine with600 spinning positions.

The high-speed automation of the R 60 manages piec-ing and doffing in 20 seconds. Each time thoroughrotor cleaning ensures that the spinning position cansubsequently continue spinning with the highest pos-sible yarn quality.

In extreme applications of this kind the double capac-ity and performance of the tube loader is especiallyuseful, combined with the "independent machine sides"function.

Author:Stephan Weidner-BohnenbergerHead Product Management Rotor [email protected]

R 60 - Higher Productivity and Flexibility on600 spinning positions

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Fritz P. Mayer, Vice-Chairman of VDMA TextileMachinery Association and Ilkhoom Khaydarov, UzbekMinister and Chairman of the board of the State Joint-Stock Company for the Light Industry"O'zbekyengilsanoat" have signed in Frankfurt a memo-randum of understanding to strengthen the ties betweenthe two organizations. During the consultationsKhaydarov, being on a visit to Germany with a high-ranking Uzbek government delegation, has given adetailed overview of present and future projects of theUzbek textile industry.

Signature for closer co-operation: Fritz P. Mayer and theUzbek Minister IlkhoomKhaydarov

With an annual output of more than one million tons,Uzbekistan is one of the biggest cotton producers ofthe world. During the last years the Central AsianRepublic undertook major efforts to increase addedvalue in its own country. The textile and apparel in-

Uzbek Minister on visit atTextile Machinery Association

dustry is one of the key areas of the investment activi-ties. More than before, when the focus was on exportof cotton the investments of today aim at the manufac-ture of cotton yarns and fabrics as well as on finishedgoods. In 2014, German exports of textile machineryto Uzbekistan summed up to roundabout 8 millionEuros.

Fritz P. Mayer stated. "With their products and perfor-mance, numerous member companies of VDMA Tex-tile Machinery Association participate actively in themodernization of the Uzbek textile industry. TheVDMA member companies are not only estimated atsite as world champions in quality, innovation andsustainability, but also as reliable business partners. Inthis context Mayer also reminded of the "GermanTextile Technology Symposium Central Asia", whichhad been initiated by VDMA in 2009. "Being visiblein Uzbekistan in the midst of the crisis year 2009 wasvery well received and signalized to the Uzbek textileindustry that we are interested in long-term co-opera-tions", added Mayer.

Save the date: Press reception of VDMA Textile Ma-chinery Association on the occasion of Techtextil: 6thMay 2015, 6:30 PM, Marriott Hotel, Frankfurt.

For more details contact:Mr Nicolai StrauchPhone +49 69 66 03 13 66,E-Mail: [email protected]

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Journal of the Textile AssocisationMOST IMPORTANT

We are pleased to inform you that Journal of the Textile Association (JTA) is now available in digitalformat on TAI website

www.textileassociationindia.org/jta.

Further, we would like to rationalize the print copies (Hard Copy) for the benefit of the members and toimprove the quality of JTA. In view of that, will you still need the hard copy of JTA or not? Please letus know within 15 days, so that we can rationalize and reorganize the JTA.

Needless to mention, if we do not get your reply within 15 days, it will be presumed that you do not requirethe hard copy of JTA.

All Units are requested to let us know how many hard copies of JTA they will require. It is requested forbest co-operation and quick response.


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Massive response received to12th International & 70th All India Textile Conference

The Textile Association (India) - Vidarbha unit hashosted 12th International & 70thAll India TextileConference again after its enormous success in 1979& 2006 on 17th& 18thJanuary 2015 at Dr. VasantraoDeshpande Auditorium, Nagpur. The theme of theconference was "Cotton, Textile & Apparel Value &Supply Chain : Global Opportunities & Chal-lenges", covering whole gamut of textile & clothingindustry.

At the inaugural function Arvind Sinha, National Presi-dent, D. R. Mehta, Past President, K. D. Sanghvi,Vice President, V. D. Zope, Chairman, Haresh Parekh,Hon. Gen. Secretary of TAI, Dr. C. D. Mayee, Chair-man of Agricultural Scientists Recruitment Board ofIndian Council of Agricultural Research, Datta Meghe,Ex-MP, Girishji Gandhi, Trustee, Vanrai, AjayPathak of Nationalist Congress, HemantSonare, Sec-retary of TAI and Conference Chairman were on thedais.

Dignitaries lighting the light at inaugural function

Mr. Hemant Sonare, Conference Chairman & Hon.Secretary of TAI Vidarbha Unit said at inaugural func-tion that "in order to boost confidence of cotton grow-ers and local industries to envisage Vidarbha as a fu-ture textile and garment hub in the country, farmersand entrepreneur need to bring in value added prod-ucts to sustain development thereby generating em-ployment".

Mr. HemantSonare presenting his speech

Also he mentioned that conference objective foreseena desired development at every stage from fibre tofashion & will successfully translate the thought pro-cess into action to achieve much required value addedgrowth for the development of Vidarbha. He showedconfidence that the outcome of the conference willcertainly boost confidence of existing & budding en-trepreneurs to act as change agents and develop inte-grated framework to make Vidarbha as a future Textileand Garment Hub of the country. Mr. Arvind Sinha,National President TAI & Past President Mr. D. R.Mehta spoke on this occasion.

Then Mr. Arvind Sinha, National President, a dynamicpersonality, wide experienced and an enthusiastic manpresented his Presidential Address.

He briefed about the TAI activities, current industryscenario, and global economy. He also touched to theIndian fast emerging market, global economic crisis.Also he expressed his personal opinion about conven-tional industry and consolidated efforts to take byvarious associations and Ministry.

Mr. D. R. Mehta, Past President also highlighted onemerging trend of textile Industry and the future ac-tivities of the association/

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Mr. Arvind Sinha delivering his Presidential address

Mr. D. R. Mehta delivering his speech

Then the award presentation & felicitation was doneto some eminent people to acclaim their outstandingcontribution, service and achievements in the courseof their profession. The awards of excellence weregiven to people who truly deserve by hands of ChiefGuest Shri Nitinji Gadkari.

The Textile Association (India) conferred prestigiousHonorary Membership to Progressive farmer Mr.Vasantrao Bhongade during this occasion for his tre-mendous achievement in cotton growing field.

Mr. Vasantrao Bhongade receiving the Hon. MembershipAward by hands of Shri Nitinji Gadkari

The Textile Association (India) conferred Honorary F.T. A (Fellow the Textile Association) to Dr. ArindamBasu, Director General of the Northern India TextileResearch Association (NITRA), eminent scientist forhis outstanding contribution made in the field of Tex-tile Research & Development.

Mr. R. K. Vij, receiving the F. T. A. Award on behalf ofDr. Arindam Basu by hands of Shri Nitinji Gadkari

In order to recognize and appreciate the meritoriousservices and special outstanding contribution for theTextile Association (India) and its Unit, the TAIawarded Service Gold Medal to Mr. Haresh B. Parekh,Hon. Gen. Secretary, TAI.

Shri Haresh B. Parekh receiving the Service Gold Award byhands of Shri Nitinji Gadkari

The spirit of encouragement prevails at UnitlevelService Memento was awarded to inspire andmotivate the members to contribute their selfless ser-vices at Unit level. The first award instituted by lateShri J. J. Randeri was awarded to Shri R. R. Agarwal,TAI Ahmedabad Unit.

Shri R. R. Agarwal receiving the Service Memento byhands of Shri Nitinji Gadkari

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The Second Service Memento award instituted by lateShri H. A. Shah was awarded to Mr. A. V. Mantri,Hon. Secretary, TAI, Mumbai Unit.

Shri A.V. Mantri receiving the Service Memento by handsof Shri Nitinji Gadkari

Best Unit trophies are floated with an idea to providean incentive to the active Unit and to encourage othersto be more and more active, contributing to the con-solidation of The Textile Associations (India) as awhole. TAI Delhi Unit from the group of larger Unitswas awarded Best Unit Trophy.

Hon. Shri. Nitinji Gadkari, Cabinet Minister, RoadTransport and Highways, Shipping, Govt. of India wasone of the guiding force behind this conference. Min-istry of Textiles, Govt. of India has taken major initia-tives for developing Butibori, Nagpur as Textile zoneand Apparel Park.

Government of Maharashtra through its new policyhas given priority to growth of textile & clothing in-dustry. Industry friendly Government policies likeTUFS, Scheme for integrated textile park (SITP) andformulation of the National Fiber policy have givenfurther boost to investment in textiles.

Hon'ble Nitinji Gadkari delivering his inaugural speech

"Cotton can play an important role to developVidarbha," said Nitin Gadkari, Union Minister of Road

Transport and Highways. He said that the peopleneeded to change their mind set and think of ways todevelop cotton industry in Vidarbha. Farmers neededto fight poverty and unemployment by using new tech-nology. They could start by setting up ginning andpressing units in villages. With the use of technologyvalue addition to cotton products could generate de-mand and increase income of farmers. Also, adoptingnew techniques of farming the yield per acer and qualityof cotton could be increased, he added. Similarly, theGovernment was looking at the feasibility of usingbarrage, inland water ways or rivers to transport cot-ton bales to ocean ports like Chennai. This would savethe cost of transportation. For this, a list of rivers hadbeen compiled, he noted.

R. K. Dubey, President of TAI, Vidarbha proposedvote of thanks of the inaugural function.

Hon'ble Subhashji Desai delivering his speech

At the valedictory function of a two-day seminar orga-nized by the Textile Association India(TAI).Maharashtra State Industry Minister Subhashji Desaisaid the Government will, in a couple of days, issue alist of 25 permits required to start an industry, and the52 that have been done away with. He said, this comesin backdrop of Fadnavis' visit to Davos to attend theWorld Economic Forum (WEF) meet. The chief min-ister has already asked government departments tosimplify procedures. Desai said the state will alsoannounce a new textile policy, which shall have majorfocus on developing the sector in Vidarbha. He saidthe government has also got proposals for a cumula-tive industrial investment of 6,000 crore from 16 com-panies. The list is already out, and now a new list,which takes the total proposed investment to over10,000 crore, will be released soon.

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Shri Sunil Porwal Delivering his valedictory speech

Additional Chief Secretary - Textiles Shri. SunilPorwal said that through this conference we will cre-ate positive environment to attract industrial growth inall sectors of textile value addition by using effectivesupply chain management to cater the business needsof all the sectors from fibre to fashion in Vidarbha. Hesaid this conference will boost confidence of localentrepreneurs by capitalizing and utilizing availableregional resources by working hand in hand withGovernment with mutual collaboration for the pros-perity of the region and to attract positive skyrocket-ing growth & investments in Vidarbha from industryleaders from all across the world.

President TAI - Arvind Sinha said that In India, stake-holders in textile business says the industry is feelingthe heat of falling crude prices. Though it may havebeen beneficial for the domestic economy, it has led toan adverse impact on the textile industry He said, thefall in crude prices has hampered the economy incountries like Russia and Venezuela, which make majorexport market for Indian apparel Industry. The middle-east countries are also in a cautious mode, with thedemand already low in the US, said Sinha. There hasbeen a close to 30%slide in the price are at an all-timelow. The next quarter release of garments may see acheaper range being launched. As against $50 shirts,the price range may be set around $20. He said therehas been no cut in capacity utilization as reducing orshutting down operations can mean more losses. But,the recession can be taken as an opportunity to comeup with innovations," There is firing of ambitions interms of globalization; there is quantum change in scaleof ambitions of India's business leaders and entrepre-neurs. They started innovating on business model,delivery, product, process, technology, customer ser-vice and logistics. Innovations, Research & Develop-ment have touches every sector of Textile & Clothingindustry.

Past president D. R. Mehta said The Indian textileindustry is extremely varied with the hand spun andhand woven sector at one end of the spectrum and thecapital intensive, sophisticated mill sector at the other.The potential growth of Indian textile and clothingindustry lies in an effective vertical integrated valuechain structure .Textile supply chain is very diverse interms of the raw material used, technologies deployedand product produced. There is sustainable value ad-dition at each stage of processing from raw material todelivery of finished product, contributing much at everystage. The industry is highly brand driven as well asacutely segmented and extremely competitive. Indus-try growth is dependent on driven operations like brand-ing, marketing communications, strategic planning,human resource management and further logisticalmanagement. Almost 1100 delegates from all acrossIndia participated in this conference. Forward andbackward integration is the key for success to addressfarmer's distress of this region. This conference willprovide an excellent opportunity for companies to gainglobal visibility and publicity by promotion of prod-ucts and services to a highly focused audience andnetworking with the participants from various parts ofthe world.

Vice President K. D. Sanghavi proposed Vote ofThanks of Valedictory function.

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GTC successfully organized withoverwhelming delegate response

The Textile Association (India) with the support ofThailand Convention & Exhibition Bureau (TCEB)organized Global Textile Congress at Bangkok on 13thto 15th February, 2015 to develop lasting businessrelations between countries producing textile fibres,fabrics, machineries and carrying out extensive researchin all related areas.

The theme of Congress "Global Textile - Opportuni-ties and Challenges in an Integrated World" was verymeticulously selected to garner knowledge and exper-tise of galaxy of eminent speakers of world fame. Thisinternational event was conceived two years ago andtremendous efforts were made to achieve success.

The Textile Association (India) clocked a key mile-stone in its history with the organization of the firstever Global Textile Conference (GTC) in Bangkok.The 3-day GTC has successfully organized with anoverwhelming delegate response from not only fromIndia but also from other Asian nations, includingThailand.

Mr. Arvind Sinha, National President delivering hiswelcome speech

All the possible detailing was done in a very system-atic manner, selection of speakers, papers in ten ses-sions addressing various issues of Textile Industry. Twopanel discussions widely attended and deliberationsby almost 30 Research Scholars and Faculty membersmade the conference big knowledge pool. Various oth-ers important issues such as Foreign Exchange, Con-

tract Management, HRD Matters, Supply Chain, Ship-ping were also discussed by very capable speakers.The Global Textile Congress was attended by morethan 600 delegates from 18 countries during whichmore than 60 papers were presented.

This international conference has addressed importantissues related to Textile Industry in Middle East, WestAfrica, Far East region including China, Indonesia,South Korea, Japan, Singapore and Hong Kong in-cluding India. Global Textile Congress assumed tre-mendous distinction for providing a springboard to thetextile industry in India to reach out to other nationswith recognition.

It was indeed heartening to find that both, the ChiefGuest and the Guest of Honour, were highly apprecia-tive of this great initiative by the Textile Association(India) and offered their fullest support for the further-ance of the objectives of the Global Textile Congress.They strongly felt and hoped that this Internationalconference would definitely create a positive and con-genial global environment which would eventually pavethe way for new Global Projects and assignmentsengaging the technocrats, experts, businessmen, trad-ers and officers from all these 18 countries and wouldattain high standard of networking between these na-tions.

Realizing this fact, His Excellency Minister of H. E.Chakramon Phasukavanich, Government of Kingdomof Thailand consented to be the Chief Guest for theinaugural session along with H. E. Harsh VardhanSringla, Honorable Ambassador of India to Thailandas Guest of Honour. Also Mrs. Mamta Verma, Indus-tries Commissioner, Office of the IndustriesCommisionerate, Govt. of Gujarat, Mr. SomsakSrisuponvanit, Executive Director, The National Fed-eration of Thailand Textile Industries, Mrs. MayureeDidpakdeechol, Director of Thailand Institute andChairman of Thai Man-made Fibre Industry Associa-tion, Thailandand other leading dignitaries joined theinaugural function.On this occasion Arvin Sinha, National President Tex-tile Association (India), R.K. Vij, Conference Chair-man Textile Association (India) and D.R. Mehta, Presi-dent Emeritus, TAI elaborated the theme of the GlobalTextile Congress and outlined the magnificence of the

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scope of mutual cooperation between all the partici-pating countries in the field of Textiles.

At the inauguration ceremony, Mr. Phasulavanichsought for creation of opportunity for exchangeprogramme between Thailand -India Education insti-tutions' for higher education in the field of textile andapparel sector, which would lead to mutual benefitsfor the two nations in the long run.

Chief Guest H.E. Chakramon Phasukavanich,Industry Minister, Government of Kingdom of

Thailand Lightening the lampat the inaugural function

H.E. Harsh Vardhan Sringla, Honorable AmbassadorofIndia to the Kingdom of Thailand

Lightening the lamp at the inaugural function

The Thailand Industry Minister noted that the textileindustry has been recently facingtough time everywherein the world and it was no doubt that textileindustrywas the largest industrial sector employing millionsofworkers across the world.

In terms of textile industry, Mr. Phasulavanich notedthatIndia was a leading textile producer country and ithas significantlyachieved the entire value chain oftextile's capacity building.

Also India has significantly createdhigh quality ofeducationinstitutions in various fieldsparticularly intextile. In thisregard, most textile institutes allover Indiahave been producinghighly skilled manpower toserverIndian textile industry andother related industriesoperatedby Indian textile manufacturers' at all levels,

Mr. Phasulavanich was confident that the GTC wouldbringlot understanding between Thais and Indian tex-tile industry at alllevels including textile education intextile and apparel sector. TheGTC will provide anopportunity to gain mutual interest and developcloserrelations with Thailand textile industry and furtherupgradeto Thailand - India Business Partnerships, heemphasized.Thai Ministry seek creation of opportuni-ties in field of textile and apparel education

Chief Guest, Guest of Honor and the dignitaries werefelicitated.

Mr. ArvindSinha, National President felicitatingChief Guest, H. E. Chakramon Phasukavanich

Mr. Arvind Sinha, National President felicitatingH. E. Harsh Vardhan Sringla

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Also other dignitaries were felicitated.

Mr. D. R. Mehta, President Emeritus felicitatingMr. Somsak Srisuponvanit

Mr. R. K. Vij, Conference Chairman felicitatingMs Mamta Verma

Mr. K. D. Sanghvi, National Vice President felicitatingMrs. Mayuree Didpakdeechol

Mr. V. D. Zope, Chairman felicitatingProf. (Dr.) M. D. Teli

Mr. K.D. Sanghvi, National Vice President felicitatingMr. Samir Karkhanis

This would also facilitate in achieving excellence inthe area of productivity, manufacturing, marketing,innovations, research and developments in textiles andthat the results as well interactions would be benefi-cial to the participants at large. Dr. M. D. Teli, PaperCommittee Chairman, Ms. Mayuree Didpakdeechol,THTI and Prof. Samir Kharkhanis from WeSchool allhave contributed tremendously towards the conference.

Global Textile Congress 2015 was an example of greatteam work and all the members including Mr. K. D.Sanghvi, Mr. V. D. Zope, Dr. N. N. Mahapatra, Mr. T.L. Patel, Mr. Haresh Parekh, Mr. V. N. Patil, Mr.Virendra Jariwala, Mr. M. G. Shah & Mr. J. B. Somaof the team worked for months taking every detailsincluding accommodation, food etc. for the delegates,Invitees and speakers.

During the conference, the eminent speakers dealt withthe modern trends in the development and productionof new fibers, both natural and manmade, different

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kinds of fabrics and their multifunctional adaptabilityfor extensive usage in other industries too.

TAI also felicitated the members, who have contrib-uted and worked hard to make the Conference a grandsuccess.

Mr. Y. C. Gupta, Business Head, Indorama IndustriesLtd., Mr. S. P. Khaitan, President, Indorama Venture,Bangkok, Mr. D. R. Agarwal, President, P. T. SudarshanInternational, Indonesia, Mr. Lalit Kumar, ManagingDirector, Sunflag (Thailand) Co. Ltd., Mr. NirmalMaheshwari, President, Indo Thai Synthetics Ltd., Mr.V. K. Agarwal, Director, P. T. Embee Plumbon Tex-tile, Thailand, Mr. S. K. Khandelia, President, K. K.Birla Group, Mr. Sanjeev Lathia, Chairman, IndiaITME Society, India, Mr. Rajiv Gopal, Senior Execu-tive President & CMO, Birla Cellulose, India, Mr.Prithvi Swaroop, M.D., Intextb, Gandhinagar, India,Mr. Badresh, Badresh Trading Co., Mr. T. L. Patel,President, TAI - Ahmedabad Unit, Mr. Rakesh Kalia,and Mr. M. L. Bagaria.

The unlimited possibilities of exchange of new ideas,techniques and fashion trends were emphasized by mostof the experts and technocrats during the conferenceinviting the talent to further enhance the capabilitiesby positive and sustained interactions in days to come.It was also pointed out in no uncertain terms that in-novative methods and procedures are imperative at alllevels in textile industry all over the world so as tolive up to the expectation of the masses aspiring forfinest fabrics and apparels.

Global Textile Congress 2015 Bangkok was a verysuccessful event and Textile Association (India) isconsidering making it regular event at every year atdifferent locations in the world.

Mr. K. D. Sanghvi, National Vice President proposedvote of thanks

Textile Association (India) especially thanks to all thesponsors without their financial support such a bigevent was not possible, Textile Association (India) alsothanks sponsors from Bangkok such as Aditya BirlaGroup, Indorama for their constant guidance whichwas very helpful guiding us towards the successfulevent.

Mr. D.R. Mehta, delivering his speech duringthe valedictory session

While expressing the gratitude during the valedictorysession, Mr. D. R. Mehta briefed about the 3daysconference which is successfully organized and alsospecially thanked Mr. D. B. Bhatt, for his tireless sup-port and co-operation and networking at Bangkok forthe GTC. He also appreciated the hard work done byMr. Vithal Phondke and Mr. Manaji Ghag, TAI Cen-tral Office staff and Mr. J. B. Soma. He invited Mr. M.K. Mehra, Dr. Rishi Jamdagni, Mr. Rakesh Kalia andothers for their impressions on the GTC.

At the end of the conference Mr. Haresh Parekh pro-posed a vote of thanks.

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NITRA's 12th Convocation Ceremony was held onWednesday, 18th Feb.'15 at NITRA, Ghaziabad. Smt.Kiran Soni Gupta, IAS,Textile Commissioner,Ministryof Textiles, Govt. of India was the chief-guest. Chair-man, NITRA ShriR. K. Jain, CMD of Pasupati Spin-ning & Weaving Mills, Dy. Chairman, NITRA ShriSanjay Jain, MD of hosiery giant TT Ltd., andShriSanjay Gulati, MD of leading apparel and made-up manufactures Global Impact, all eminent industri-alists, were also present on the occasion. A total of113 students from 8 regular and distance learning pro-grams were awarded certificates and medals in thisyear's convocation.

Smt. KiranSoni Gupta lights on the holy lamp as Dr.ArindamBasu (L) and Sh. Sanjay Jain (R) look on

Director General NITRA Dr. ArindamBasuin his wel-come addressmentioned that today NITRA is offering8 industry oriented techno-management programs onregular, part-time and distance learning modes, cover-ing the areas such as textile/garment manufacturing,designing, merchandising, quality assurance, and fin-ishing. So far most of the students excelled in theircareer after passing out from NITRA. He informedthat at present NITRA has nearly 2000 alumni strengththat is efficiently serving in more than 100 renownedapparel and textiles exports companies that had re-cruited NITRA alumnus in the past five years. Healso apprised that under Govt. of India's skill develop-ment program (ISDS), as an implementing agency fortextile sector, NITRA is in the process of training16,600 personnel over a stipulated period.

Textile Commissioner Graces NITRA's12th Convocation

Dr. Arindam Basu, Director General, NITRA,welcomes the audience

Sh. Sanjay Jain, Dy. Chairman, NITRA, in his key-note address opined that though the apparel sector doesnot have a complex structure, yet continuous innova-tion is the only recipe for its success in the long run.

He further mentioned that NITRA, being near to India'sapparel hub consisting of Delhi, Noida, Gurgaon,Faridabad, Ghaziabad, Meerut, Jaipur, Ludhiana andPanipat, is the most ideal institute to undergo trainingand start a career in textiles and garment industry. Healso stressed on industry-student interaction and hands-on training at NITRA's sophisticated labs.

NITRA pass-out student receives certificate fromSh.Sanjay Jain, Dy. Chairman, NITRA, felicitates TextileSmt. KiranSoni GuptaCommissioner Smt. KiranSoni

Gupta with a memento

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Smt. KiranSoni Gupta, IAS in her Convocation Ad-dress stated that the Indian textile and clothing indus-try offers massive employment opportunities to thecountrymen and in terms of volume, it is only secondto the agricultural sector. T&C industry also contrib-utes significantly to industrial production, export earn-ings, and GDP. The Textile Commissioneralso stressedupon the importance of continuous innovation in thisindustry. In this context, she mentioned about thegovt. initiatives and schemes such as ISDS, TMTT,SITP, and TUFS, in order to achieve faster and inclu-sive growth of this industry for generating additional

employments. Sheexpressed happiness over NITRA'sbrilliant performance in training youngsters and pro-viding them job opportunities.

Sh. Abhijit Pal, Officiating Director, NITRA, proposedthe formal vote of thankswhilst ShriParthaBasu, PRO& Faculty,NITRA conducted the event.

For details, Please contact:ParthaBasu, PRO & FacultyM.: [email protected]

◆ Annual capacity at Calvert city site (Kentucky,USA) to increase by 85,000 Metric Tons

◆ Investment Volume of around •50 Million◆ Additional capacity will be available during the

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supply◆ CEO Rudolf Staudigl: "The expansion is essen-

tial if we are to meet our customers' demand forour dispersions over the coming years"

Munich / Calvert City, March 9, 2015 - WackerChemieAG isexpanding its existing vinyl acetate-thylene co-polymer (VAE)dispersions production facilities in theUnited States. The Munichbasedchemical company willadd a new reactor with an annualcapacity of 85,000metric tons at its Calvert City site, investing anamountof around •50 million in the site's capacity andinfrastructure.This makes the complex the largest ofits kind in the Americas. Thenew reactor is scheduledto come on stream by mid-2015.

"Capacity expansion is essential if we are to meet ourcustomers'demand for our dispersions over the comingyears", explained RudolfStaudigl, CEO ofWackerChemie AG, the reason for the investment."Afterextending our dispersions capacities at our sites inSouth Korea and China in the course of the last twoyears, we have now pushed ahead with expanding ourproduction in the US, too. Thus, we will be able tokeep pace with future market growth and strengthenour leading position in VAE dispersions", Staudigl said.

WACKER has further added an ethylene pipeline tothe Calvert City facility for increasing the long-term

WACKER EXPANDS PRODUCTIONCAPACITY FOR DISPERSIONS IN USA

reliability of raw material supply at the site. "Thisinvestment in our continuous raw-material supply isan important step: it not only makes a key contributionto supply security in the years to come, but also to thecost-efficient production of our dispersions," explainedJohn Fotheringham, vice president of Dispersions atWACKER POLYMERS.

With over 50 years' experience in the developmentand production of vinyl acetate-ethylene copolymerdispersions, WACKER is a global technology andmarket leader in this field. VINNAPAS® dispersionsare popular binders in the construction, paints, coat-ings and adhesives industries. The dispersions findapplication, for instance, in the formulation of low-odor and low-emission indoor paints, but also in plas-ters, technical textiles and nonwovens, carpet adhe-sives and as binders in polymer materials based onrenewable resources.

For further information, please contact:WackerChemie AGMedia Relations & InformationNadine BaumgartlTel. +49 89 6279-1604Fax +49 89 [email protected]

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- Martin Luther King, Jr.


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FORTHCOMING EVENTS

INDIA10th Edition of Fibres and Yarns 2015Date : 09th to 10th April, 2015Venue : World Trade Centre, Cuff Parede,

Mumbai, IndiaContact : Mr. Rakesh Sharma

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Techtextil India(Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwoven)Date : 24th to 26th September, 2015Venue : Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Goregaon

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Every effort is made to ensure that the information given is correct. You are however, advisedto re-check the dates with the organizers, for any change in schedule, venue etc., beforefinalizing your travel plans..

ABROAD13th Asian Textile Conference (ATC-13)Federation of Asian Professional Textile Association (FAPTA)Date : 03rd to 06th November, 2015Venue : Australian coastal city of Geelong,

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INDIATEX 2016International Textile ExhibitionDate : 16-18th March, 2016Venue : Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Goregaon

(E), Mumbai, IndiaContact : Mr. Haresh B. Parekh, Exhibition Convenor

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ITMA 2015The Integrated Textile & Garment Manufacturing Tech-nologies ShowcaseDate : 12th to 19th November, 2015Venue : Fiera, Milano Rho, Milan, ItalyContact : MP Expositions Pte Ltd. 20, Kallang Avenue, 2nd

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ITME 2016The Integrated Textile & Garment Manufacturing Tech-nologies ShowcaseDate : 03rdto 08th December, 2016Venue : Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Goregaon

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1210/1211 Dalamal Tower, A wing, 12th Floor,Plot No.211, Nariman Point,Mumbai- 400 021 India

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