colombia: 2015–2016 season...

AAC Publications Colombia: 2015–2016 Season Summary Colombia, Sierra Nevada del Cocuy and Nevado del Huila The Sierra Nevada del Cocuy was the area with the most new routes. The climbs below are described chronologically. During the rainy season, on May 2, Roberto Ariano, Omar Lopez, and Luis Pardo made the first known ascent of Pico Espejo (5,173m), a distant summit in the central sector of Sierra Nevada del Cocuy. They climbed up the narrow south ridge (AD) and descended by the north ridge to the glacier below San Pablín Sur. Also during the rainy season, on July 11, Pardo and Angélica Gutiérrez made the first ascent of the south face of Cusirí (4,680m) at the southern limit of the Sierra Nevada del Cocuy. This new line was of low difficulty but very fun; they called it La Maja Acostada (300m, 5.7). In the beginning of the normal dry season, Julio Bermudez and Santiago Zuluaga made the first complete traverse of the Ritacubas. Over five days, from December 30–January 3, they climbed along this sharp 4km ridge, with altitudes over 5,000m. Along the traverse, they reached the summits of Ritacuba Norte (5,257m), Ritacuba Negro (5,300m), and Ritacuba Blanco (5,330m). For acclimatization, three days prior to the traverse, Bermudez soloed a new line up the north ridge (120m, D 75°) of Muela Peak (5,100m). On January 9, Luis Quintero and Ricardo Rubio climbed a new route on Puntiagudo (5,019m), ascending the north face to the summit ridge: La Huella del Oso (250m, AD 60° 5.9). Later, Ricardo Rubio and Nicolas Beltran traveled to the center of Sierra Nevada del Cocuy and climbed a new route on the Portales (4,920m). This rock climb ascends the middle of the west wall; they called it El Bastón (150m, 5.10d). Lastly, on January 19, Oscar Bonilla and Alejandro Restrepo opened a short but difficult sport route on the southeastern wall of Concavo (5,240m). The route is located just left of the route Conspiración Cósmica; they called it Conspiración Lunar (45m, 5.12d). Beyond the Cocuy zone, the volcano Nevado del Huila, located in southwestern Colombia, went almost 12 years without access due to strong volcanic activity and incidents of violence in the region. On December 9 the team of Julio Cardona, Nelson Calcetero, Jorge Mancera, Anibal Pineda, and Carlos Valero ascended to the northern summit (5,280m) and two days later reached the highest, central summit (5,364m). Luis Pardo, Colombia

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AAC Publications

Colombia: 2015–2016 Season SummaryColombia, Sierra Nevada del Cocuy and Nevado del Huila

The Sierra Nevada del Cocuy was the area with the most new routes. The climbs below aredescribed chronologically.

During the rainy season, on May 2, Roberto Ariano, Omar Lopez, and Luis Pardo made the first knownascent of Pico Espejo (5,173m), a distant summit in the central sector of Sierra Nevada del Cocuy.They climbed up the narrow south ridge (AD) and descended by the north ridge to the glacier belowSan Pablín Sur. Also during the rainy season, on July 11, Pardo and Angélica Gutiérrez made the firstascent of the south face of Cusirí (4,680m) at the southern limit of the Sierra Nevada del Cocuy. Thisnew line was of low difficulty but very fun; they called it La Maja Acostada (300m, 5.7).

In the beginning of the normal dry season, Julio Bermudez and Santiago Zuluaga made the firstcomplete traverse of the Ritacubas. Over five days, from December 30–January 3, they climbed alongthis sharp 4km ridge, with altitudes over 5,000m. Along the traverse, they reached the summits ofRitacuba Norte (5,257m), Ritacuba Negro (5,300m), and Ritacuba Blanco (5,330m). Foracclimatization, three days prior to the traverse, Bermudez soloed a new line up the north ridge(120m, D 75°) of Muela Peak (5,100m).

On January 9, Luis Quintero and Ricardo Rubio climbed a new route on Puntiagudo (5,019m),ascending the north face to the summit ridge: La Huella del Oso (250m, AD 60° 5.9). Later, RicardoRubio and Nicolas Beltran traveled to the center of Sierra Nevada del Cocuy and climbed a new routeon the Portales (4,920m). This rock climb ascends the middle of the west wall; they called it El Bastón(150m, 5.10d).

Lastly, on January 19, Oscar Bonilla and Alejandro Restrepo opened a short but difficult sport route onthe southeastern wall of Concavo (5,240m). The route is located just left of the route ConspiraciónCósmica; they called it Conspiración Lunar (45m, 5.12d).

Beyond the Cocuy zone, the volcano Nevado del Huila, located in southwestern Colombia, wentalmost 12 years without access due to strong volcanic activity and incidents of violence in the region.On December 9 the team of Julio Cardona, Nelson Calcetero, Jorge Mancera, Anibal Pineda, andCarlos Valero ascended to the northern summit (5,280m) and two days later reached the highest,central summit (5,364m).

Luis Pardo, Colombia
Images

Cusirí (4,680m), showing the route La Maja Acostada (300m, 5.7).

Descending the north ridge of Espejo after making the peak’s first ascent.

At the base of Nevado del Huila, during its first ascent in 12 years.
La Huella del Oso (250m, AD 60° 5.9) on the north face of Puntiagudo (5,019m).

Julio Bermudez climbing exposed ridgeline on the first traverse of the Ritacuba peaks.
Article Details

Author Luis Pardo

Publication AAJ

Volume 58

Issue 90

Page 193

Copyright Date 2016

Article Type Climbs and expeditions