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Clarence City Council: a history Words and images sourced from The Eastern Shore: A History of Clarence by Alison Alexander 2003, Clarence City Council.

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Clarence City Council: a history Words and images sourced from The Eastern Shore: A History of Clarence by Alison Alexander 2003, Clarence City Council.

Bowen’s map of the Risdon Cove settlement Courtesy Archives Office of Tasmania (AOT CO 201/26)

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Risdon Cove would be an excellent place for a settlement, with its good creek, fertile park-like valley, rich soil and ‘thick juicy grass’. Bass and Flinders, 1798.

The first people to live in Clarence were the Moomairremener Tasmanian Aboriginal people, a band of the Oyster Bay tribe. Their home was all of present day Clarence as well as Pitt Water and they had lived there for centuries.

In September 1803 Lieutenant John Bowen arrived at Risdon Cove with two ships – Albion and Lady Nelson and 49 people (convicts, soldiers, a few free settlers, a surgeon and Bowen’s mistress), provisions and livestock.

The people on the ship reported that the Aboriginal people were numerous and very friendly but could not be persuaded to visit the settlement.

Aboriginal people and early European activity

‘Lieutenant John Bowen and party arriving at Risdon’, by Thomas Gregson about 1860. Gregson later lived at Risdon

Courtesy W.L. Crowther State Library, State Library of Tasmania

Once farms were established in Clarence there is little mention of Aboriginal activity, partly because records were sparse but also perhaps because Aboriginal people kept away from the settlers.

There are different reports of what happened, but it appears that a large group of Aboriginal men, women and children came down the valley at Risdon with waddies or clubs to hunt kangaroos. But the acting commandant, accused of being drunk at the time, ordered that a cannon be fired and fifty or more Aborigines were killed. Whatever the true story, it is clear that the Aborigines were peaceful hunters and the violence came from the Europeans.

The Moomairremener continued to visit the area as they always had until at least 1808, as their fires were seen there every summer and autumn.

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“a very delightful place, where they grew some of the finest wheat ever grown in V.D. Land”. Reverend Robert Knopwood, 1814

Rev. Robert Knopwood doing his rounds on his pony accompanied by his dog, a composite picture made after his death by his friend Thomas Gregson Courtesy Tasmaniana Library, State Library of Tasmania

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They [McCauleys] farmed a large grant of land at Muddy Plains, “a very delightful place, where they grew some of the finest wheat ever grown in V.D. Land”. Reverend Robert Knopwood, 1814.

The early settlers in the area were mainly ex-convicts from New Norfolk who had little or no idea how to farm their 20-60 acre grants of land. The first farmer at Kangaroo Point was Richard Morgan (on the site of the Rosny Golf Course) where he grew wheat and barley. By 1809 there were 39 farms established in Clarence.

By 1820 small centres of population had grown up in Clarence, at Kangaroo Point and at Clarence Plains.

At this time, the soil at Clarence Plains was good and the area was divided into small grants. Farmers were generally not skilled. As in 1809 all farms grew wheat and barley and grazed sheep and cattle but some were growing peas, potatoes and beans.

By the end of 1820 Clarence was quite prosperous. Kangaroo Point had its ferry, inn, slaughter house, constable and 15 farms.

It was a busy transport centre, with some goods being loaded directly on to ships going overseas, goods coming in and travellers disembarking from ferries to travel east, south-east and sometimes north.

Earlysettlers

Colonel Andrew Geil’s farmhouse at Risdon Archives Office of Tasmania (AOT 30/4/189)

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“I never see so fine crops; the season has been so very fine and plenty of grass”. Reverend Robert Knopwood, clergyman, 1825

Clarence Council 1912, outside the Council Chambers. Back: William Morrisby (council clerk), James Pearsall, William Calvert,

Cyril Lewis, Alf Cuthbertson, George Morrisby, Walter Chapman. Sitting: George Allwright, James O’May, Alf McDermott, James

Murdoch (warden), Alexander Hume, Arthur Mathersp. Courtesy Peter and Alison O’May

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“I never see so fine crops (sic); the season has been so very fine and plenty of grass”. Reverend Robert Knopwood, clergyman, 1825.

The natural beauty of Clarence was appreciated and well known from the early days of its development. In 1858 an advert for a property in Rokeby, stated “…it was in one of the most healthy districts in Tasmania, and the beautiful bay has every facility for sea bathing”.

In the forty years from 1820 to 1860, the population of Clarence greatly increased from 245 to 1612 people. With the rise in population and the introduction of steam ferries in 1832, industry and agriculture also increased.

In October 1860 Clarence was declared a municipality, the third in Tasmania and contained the two towns of Bellerive and Rokeby, as well as the townships of South Arm, Sandford and Cambridge. Council’s main functions were to control police, roads, water supply if any, public health and recreation grounds, and to impound stray animals, license butchers and register dogs.

Twenty-one men stood for the six positions of councillor. Edward Abbott, magistrate, was elected as the first Warden of Clarence through unusual means. Although he came second in the poll, he was elected as the first warden because the other councillors were divided in their support and so it was decided by putting the two names into a hat.

Early years of development: 1820-1860

Kangaroo Point from Rosny in 1860, with a sailing ship and the ferry Kangaroo at the wharf. There are a few houses or trees on

Bellerive Bluff. Courtesy Thomas Ward

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“…I am the oldest Warden in the Colony, I have been your Warden for 8 years…my conscience tells me I have honestly impartially and faithfully acted…”Excerpt from Edward Abbott’s resignation address, 11 December 1868.

The first Warden of Clarence, Edward Abbott, was a man of many achievements. He was Warden of Clarence municipality from its beginning in 1860 until 1868, when ill health caused him to resign.

Abbott enjoyed the confidence of his Council and ratepayers as can be seen from his eight years as Warden and the praise from some of his Councillors at his testimonial after his death. “ ...Mr Abbott discharged his duties as warden faithfully and honestly. (Cheers)”.

In 1839 he began the Hobart Town Advertiser and was its editor and publisher until 1842 and was elected to

the first House of Assembly as member for Clarence until 1864.

Australia’s first cookbook, The English and Australian Cookery Book: Cookery for the Many, as well as the “Upper Ten Thousand” was written by Edward Abbott and published in 1864. It contains an amazing collection of recipes for local produce, such as kangaroo, emu, wombat, mutton birds and black swan; and fascinating snippets of history, science and humour.

Friends of Abbott praised his integrity in official duties, while acknowledging his eccentricities. To his successors at the Advertiser he was “a thoroughly high principled and truthful politician”.

He occasionally gave way to violent passion or was unruly and abusive during a parliamentary debate and ordered to leave the House.

Edward Abbott (1801-1869): politician, magistrate, cook book author and journalist!

“…I am the oldest Warden in the Colony, I have been your warden for 8 years…my conscience tells me I have honestly impartially and faithfully acted…” Excerpt from Edward Abbott’s resignation address, 11 December 1868.

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“The [cricket] ground is decidedly the best of any of the country districts with a noble view of Ralphs Bay and Drougthy Point [sic, the old spelling] and picturesque scenery…”

The Mercury 2 January, 1868

Charles Chipman, a Clarence farmer kept a diary from 1866 to 1870. It gives a vivid picture of rural daily life in Clarence in the late nineteenth century. Charles spent most of his time growing crops of wheat, potatoes, hay and fruit. He also attended church, spent time visiting or being visited by family and friends and enjoyed shooting and fishing. Charles married Corbetta Lord, from a wealthy Richmond family. They had a long and happy life together, bringing up their family of nine children.

From the late 1850s organised sport became of interest for many young men in Clarence, such as the formation of: a cricket club in 1858, the Clarence Rifle Company in 1898, the Bellerive Football Club in 1884, the Bellerive Rowing Club in 1882 and the Lindisfarne Rowing Club in 1905.

Other popular pastimes in Clarence included swimming, picnics, regattas, fishing, attending boxing matches, cycling, golf and listening to musical performances from brass bands and orchestral concerts.

By the time of the 1911 census, there was a dramatic decrease in the number of people living in rural areas in favour of urban centres, considered suburbs of Hobart, Bellerive and Lindisfarne.

Life in Clarence: 1860-1914

The Chipman family at their home, Clarence House, Rokeby, about 1885. Left: Corbetta hiding in the bushes, Kate and Edith, father Charles at rear, Robert, mother Corbetta with Daisy, Edward, Mary, Charles, and Reginald Courtesy Doug Chipman

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Kangaroo Bay and Richmond Road as it was called, photographed in 1873 Courtesy W.L. Crowther State Library, State Library of Tasmania

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Model properties were owned by Morrisby and Stanfield of Clarence Plains, Chipman of Droughty Point and McRorie of Cambridge, and there were also some ‘very nice’ farms at Rosny and Lindisfarne. The Mercury 7 June, 1884.

From 1860 to 1890 progress in Clarence was limited, as it had been all over Tasmania. Between 1860 and 1890 the population declined from 1552 to 1485 and the annual value of land fell by a quarter.

Almost all the population lived by farming, agricultural labourers and associated tradesmen such as blacksmiths, or carters taking produce to the ferry.

In the early 1880s the main rural activities in Clarence

were mixed farming and pasturing. The area produced mainly grain and hay, mutton and lamb for the Hobart markets.

In 1914 there were 103 farms in Clarence. The crops were hay, wheat, green fodder, oats, green peas and potatoes. Apples and pears were first grown commercially in Clarence in the 1860s. By 1903 fruit growing was expanded to apricots, and gooseberries in Cambridge.

Shipbuilding continued for years but gradually all activity moved to larger shipyards in Hobart. Some new industries were introduced, including; a bone mill at Shag Bay established in 1890, a sanitary treatment business in 1910 and a stone quarry at Bellerive.

Development in Clarence: 1860-1914

Lindisfarne from Natone Hill: houses are few and orchards plentiful, but there is already a jetty and a bridge across Lavender Bay inlet Courtesy Tasmaniana Library, State Library of Tasmania

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New houses beside Main Road, Lindisfarne, 1950s. No gutters or footpaths, but at least the roads are sealed. Courtesy Lindisfarne Historical Society

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Risdon Vale had beautiful views and good houses and only needed “a bit of spit and polish”, Risdon Vale resident.

Since 1947 Clarence had grown seven-fold, more than any other area in Tasmania. What was the attraction to living in Clarence? As most people worked in Hobart or Glenorchy it can be said that people wanted to live in

Clarence because it was an attractive area and land was available for housing.

A number of services improved during the decades from 1949 to 1974, including: public housing, water, sewerage, garbage collection, road works, the Tasman Bridge (1964), transport, recreation amenities, development of suburbs and shopping centres.

Decades of development: 1949-1974

Housing Department homes in Warrane, early 1950s Courtesy Archives Office of Tasmania (AOT AA 193/334)

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Sid, Dave, Harry, Robert and George O’May on Bellerive wharf in front of the Rosny, late 1930s. Courtesy Peter and Alison O’May

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Travelling by ferry was a special occasion. People met their friends and tended to sit in the same seats. ‘No one ever said, “Don’t sit there, that’s my seat”, but we all knew’. Betty Hanslow.

By 1910 Clarence had seen some new forms of transport taking over from the first sailing boats and horse and cart, such as steam ferries, motor cars and public motor transport.

Edward and Alice Connolly set up a relatively prosperous mail and passenger service that operated out of their business, the Clarence Hotel in Bellerive in 1914.

The ferry was a vital method of transport as it took produce from the eastern shore to Hobart. Travel by

ferry was a popular mode of transport and for many it was considered to be a social occasion and a good place to conduct business. The O’May family was well known in the ferry business.

The 1920s and 1930s saw turmoil in road making as new motor traffic was heavy and required more solid roads.

Things improved somewhat for rural and municipal councils when the state government took over the responsibility for main roads in the 1920s.

Holymans began flights to Hobart, using the Brighton aerodrome, but they intended to move to Cambridge, where the government provided the site and runways, and Holymans the hanger and facilities.

Transport woes and successes: 1910-1939

Connolly’s Bellerive-Carnarvon [Port Arthur] Motor Service ready to go, outside the Clarence Hotel, Bellerive Courtesy Bellerive Historical Society

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The Sandford Volunteer Defence Corps. Courtesy Jim Wishart

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“Why do [people] want telling – Isent (sic) there only the one thing to do – send help tour boys”Agnes Hanslow, 1917

The main way of ‘doing your bit’ for the war was by fighting, and in Clarence 230 people enlisted, of which 56 died. Council erected a memorial to honour those who had died.

Women were very active during the First World War and branches of the Red Cross were formed in Rokeby, Lindisfarne, Bellerive and Cambridge. Members sent ‘comforts’ parcels of socks, scarves, tins of cocoa and milk powder and writing paper.

There were very few military personnel in the south in 1940, including no Air Force and very few Army or Navy units. The Army decided some defence work was needed and in 1940 the Volunteer Defence Corps was formed to undertake coast watching and anti-aircraft

and searchlight activities. Clarence produced the fourth highest total in Tasmania with an initial sign up of 57 men.

There was also the Civil Defence Legion, which organised certain services, such as: air raid shelters, emergency hospitals, fire brigades, transport, canteen services and special police.

The war really came home to Clarence, when on 1 March 1942 a Japanese submarine made a reconnaissance trip around the Tasman Sea, including stopping at Hobart. To hinder the Japanese in air raids, the blackout was implemented by late 1941.

During the Second World War people’s lives were mostly more affected by rations than the fear of invasion. A total of 747 Clarence people enlisted during the Second World War, which was almost one third of its adult population in 1939. 44 men died.

The two Great Wars: WWI and WWII

Bellerive Red Cross auxiliary at work: Faith Boucher, Pat D., Betty Hanslow, Lyn Blight and Mrs Chandler Courtesy Betty Marmion

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After the 1967 fires: the historic home of Bay View, Rokeby, was began as early as 1820s, and was in turn a school, hotel and private home, but now a ruin. Courtesy Tranmere-Clarence Plains Land & Coastcare Inc

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He tore into the house and said, “Close all the doors and go and get thick slacks and a heavy jumper on”. I asked “Whatever for?” and he replied, “Things are going to happen”. Mavis Webb, Rokeby resident.

Before 1967 there had been plenty of bush fires in Clarence but none on any large scale. By the end of 1966 the fire season was looking dangerous.

From 6 February extreme fire danger was being forecast.

On 7 February 1967 a fire ravaged southern Tasmania, from Rokeby to the Derwent Valley and south to the Huon. In total 62 people died, 1085 homes and 361 other buildings were destroyed and $40 million worth of damage was done. There were 110 fires altogether and 88 were deliberately lit.

Black Tuesday: the 1967 bushfires

A baptism at the Rokeby Congregational Church, which was burnt in the 1967 fires. Courtesy Tranmere-Clarence Plains Land & Coastcare Inc

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“it re-established community spirit, because we all had to join together in adversity; it brought us all together again, having to travel on the ferry”Clarence resident

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“it re-established community spirit, because we all had to join together in adversity; it brought us all together again, having to travel on the ferry”

Clarence resident

On the evening of Sunday 5 January 1975 the Tasman Bridge collapsed. The cause of the disaster was the Lake Illawarra, a cargo ship taking concentrates to the zinc works at Risdon. Clarence, containing 40,750 people was now cut off from Hobart, and faced huge problems.

The story of the Clarence District Football Club shows what problems a group could face during the bridge disaster. Many players worked in Hobart and found it hard to get home in time for training on weeknights. During this time attendance fell but then as soon as the bridge reopened things were to improve.

Although times were tough during the three years the bridge was closed, the Clarence community spirit prevailed.

The bridge disaster

The Tasman Bridge after the collision, with the headlights of the cars on the edge still on. Rescue boats are active in the river Courtesy Clarence City Council

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Bellerive and Howrah from the air

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“Clarence today provides inhabitants with much the same as it always has: an opportunity to enjoy a pleasant life in a friendly community, with a genial climate in beautiful surroundings” Alison Alexander, The Eastern Shore: a history of Clarence, 2003.

From the late 1980s Clarence Council was acknowledged as a leader in many areas, including: forward planning; upgrading roads; sewerage treatment; recreational parks and facilities, sports grounds (Bellerive Oval); community services (youth and aged care); events (2000 Olympic torch relay) and festivals (Clarence Jazz Festival); and heritage (Richmond historic village and the Tasmanian Cricket Museum at the Bellerive Oval).

During the 1970s there were calls for Clarence to become a City. The topic was revived in the 1980s by which time Rosny Park developed as the City Centre.

Clarence was officially declared a city on 24 November 1988.

Today Clarence is one of Tasmania’s fastest growing local government areas and the estimated population in mid 2009 was 52,100. The growth in population has been influenced by the rapid growth in industry, tourism, agriculture and the wine industry.

Today Clarence is well known for its relaxed and enjoyable lifestyle and there are similarities to its past residents. In the early years of Clarence, its leisure activities were considered most enjoyable, as mentioned by Robert Knopwood, clergyman, walking along the sandy beach at Howrah as being one of his favourite places to walk. Visitors to Clarence in the 19th century also enjoyed fishing, racing, picnics, sailing and regattas. In 2010 the City of Clarence celebrated a milestone as a municipality with its sesquicentenary.

Clarence becomes a city!

Lindisfarne Bay and Rose Bay from the air