city of sin & sound: montréal's mutek festival

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SINCITY OF

MONTREALS MUTEK FESTIVAL

SOUNDAND

not tropical summer, Montrals plazas echo with

music, its terrasses overflowing with revellers and its

venues choked with nightlife. The vibrant and diverse

metropolis has crowned itself City of Festivals

though with its neon strip joints and laissez-faire

attitudes towards drinking and debauchery, City ofSin remains apt and over the course of three

months from June through August, over 100 festivals

storm the streets, from the internationally recognized

Festival du Jazz, and its large-scale, free urban concerts

to the equally impressive for my tastes Montreal

Beer Fest, which kicks off four days of taste bud

titillation. And this is but a sampling of Montrals

endless stream of day-and-night events dedicated to

world theatre, film, music, dance, and opera and

joyous celebrations of culture, circus and comedy.

One week before the infamous F1 Grand Prix, I

was in town for the 15th anniversaries of the MUTEK

and Elektra festivals of electronic music and digital

arts (now known as EM15). Back in 2002, MUTEK

drew me to Montral, serving as a focal point for

experimentalists of strange and minimalist sound,

post-raver turntablists and tattooed techno-heads.

Now that Canadian electronic producers such as

Richie Hawtin are world-recognized for their talents

in composition, performance, and installation

though embarassingly, all but ignored by the likes ofCBCs Q, even as they grace major media elsewhere

MUTEK has become an international destination for

dedicated techno-head travellers as one of the worlds

premiere boutique electronic music festivals.

MUTEKs success is thanks to a community that

values its arts. The Society for Art and Technology

(SAT) a 30,000-square-foot media arts venue in a

former downtown warehouse has been building

upon a Printemps Numeriques showcase of technology

arts for the past decade. At the same time, the city has

been developing what is known as the Quartiers des

Spectacles. The Opra de Montral and Muse dart

Contemporain (MAC) are now the institutional

centrepieces to modern galleries and performance

venues on surrounding streets. The Quartier is not

50Travel AND Adventure

M

ontral, however, has a few things on West Coast living. It

is the place where hang-ups go to die. English coldness rots

away during the vicious winters. Friendships are fast and

run deep. And with the sudden onset of an often humid if

STORYANDPHOTOSBYtobias c. van Veen

Canada isnt so much of a tale of two cultures

as it is torn between two styles of city: for thosedouble-dosha types who embrace mountains but

also music, alpinism but also art, culture but also

climbing, then it is between Vancouver and Montralthat one is tugged to and fro, in the endless quest

to spawn a bastard lovechild of the two.


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Purchase tickets at Guest Services

or by calling 1.800.766.0449

Join us every Friday, Saturday

and Sunday evening at the

Roundhouse Lodge on Whistler

Mountain for an incredible,

mountain-top BBQ experience

with live music.

MOUNTAIN-TOP BBQ BUFFET DINNERS

p : P a u l M o r r i s o n

COME FOR THE BBQ,

ADDITIONAL BBQ EVENING ON SATURDAY JUNE 21

SAVOUR THE VIEWS

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SLOW-ROASTED

PRIME RIB BBQ

SATURDAYS:

PACIFIC SEAFOOD

GRILL

SUNDAYS:

TIMES & PRICING

1ST

SEATING

2ND

SEATING

June 27 - Aug 31Friday to Sunday

5pm -6:30pm

6:30pm -8pm

Dates and times subject to change.

MOUNTAIN TOP

BBQ BUFFET

DINNER TICKET

BBQ

ONLY

LIFT

ONLY

LIFT &

BBQ SAVINGS

Adult(19-64) $36.00 $52.95 $66.95 $22.00

Youth/Senior(13-18/65+) $30.00 $45.95 $59.95 $16.00

Prices do not include applicable taxes.

AVINGS

$22.00

$16.00

only in name, but place: the St. Catherines

thoroughfare and side streets are closed to

traffic during summer, creating a massive

people plaza that extends east through the

LGBT Village.

This year, EM15 occupied the MACs

illustrious galleries a first for the festival

and a nod to the institutionalization of the

former dregs of rave culture. But rather than

stifle the fests minor bohemia, the MACprovided thunderous sound in a minimalist

setting that was rapidly dismantled of its

pretensions by the late-night antics of

festival-goers. The six days and nights of

performance were near overwhelming,

with conferences on music software and

technology during the day at Centre Phi,

and music thumping and squelching until 6

a.m. most nights in multiple venues hosting

simultaneous showcases. Nearly all modern

electronic artists incorporate immersive

takes on audio-visual performance, and

EM features both club-style concerts in the

two-level Mtropolis venue that featured

the latest in LED projections and object

mapping, as well as more thankfully restfulaffairs in the beautifully renovated art deco

Thatre Imprial, where artists utilised the

film screen and stage space to play live

amongst image and objects.

The heart of EM is its live performances

of enveloping sonics whether vibrating

bodies with slamming techno, such as

Frances Kangding Ray, who melted

the opening Tuesday night, or losing

spectators in a literal fog of noise and

disorientating darkness, as did local

luminary Tim Hecker. Other highlights

included Audion (a.k.a. Matthew Dear),

who ran raw techno from a space ship

suspended above the stage at Metropolis;

the deep sea subsonics of Greeces dub

techno master and Basic Channel pioneer,

Fluxion; and the always rambunctious,

and this year utterly rammed showcase

at Piknic Electronik, an outdoor Sunday

shindig of epic proportions held under

LHomme, the giant, metallic Alexander

Calderstabile in Parc Jean Drapeau, where

Move D and Donato Dozzy held court

until well past sunset.My main transport for Montreal events

that tax mind and body is a BIXI and a

metro pass. With no mandatory helmet

laws and plenty of protected bike lanes,

two wheels gets you near anywhere.

Plenty of convenient lodging is within a

few walking blocks of the Quartier des

Spectacles, including the boutique and trs

modern Hotel 10.

After six days of dawn crashes, it was

time to escape town. With luxury wheels

from Enterprise, I gunned out to the Eastern

Townships, devouring delicacies at Bromonts

Muse du Chocolat off Autoroute 10 before

making my way to the picturesque, brick

town of Sherbrooke. A day spent at the SpaAlgua-Sulis for multiple rounds of hot saunas

and massages had me ready to collapse with

drink in hand in Qubecs cottage country. A

cute little chalet fulfilled the needs of my lazy

bones on Petit lac Brompton, where only the

storms and sun provided the soundtrack for

the next few days of solitude.

MUTEK/E lektra (EM15.ca) takes place

yearly on the first weekend of June. For

more on Montrals numerous festivals, see

Tourisme-montreal.org. For Hotel 10, see

Hotel10montreal.com. Sherbrookes Spa Algua-

Sulis is at Spaalguasulis.com and the Muse du

Chocolat at Museeduchocolatebromont.ca.

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city of sin & sound: montréal's mutek festival

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