ChryslerCirrusDodge StratusPlymouthBreezeAutomotiveRepairManualby Marc M Scribnerand John H HaynesMember of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered:Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus and Plymouth Breeze1995 through 2000

Haynes'(10C 1 - 25015)

IMTS HAccm MEMBERASSOCIATION

ABODEFGHIJKLMN

Haynes Publishing GroupSparkford Nr YeovilSomerset BA22 7JJ EnglandHaynes North America, Inc861 Lawrence DriveNewbury ParkCalifornia 91320 USA

About this manualIts purpose must pass on to you to cover its labor and

The purpose of this manual is to help overhead costs. An added benefit is the

you get the best value from your vehicle. It sense of satisfaction and accomplishmentcan do so in several ways. It can help you that you feel after doing the job yourself.decide what work must be done, even if you Using the manualchoose to have it done by a dealer servicedepartment or a repair shop; it provides infor- The manual is divided into Chapters.

Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sec-tions, which are headed in bold type betweenhorizontal lines. Each Section consists ofconsecutively numbered paragraphs.

At the beginning of each numbered Sec-tion you will be referred to any illustrationswhich apply to the procedures in that Sec-tion. The reference numbers used in illustra-tion captions pinpoint the pertinent Sectionand the Step within that Section. That is,illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers toSection 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within

NOTEA Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which willmake the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTIONA Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing theprocedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assemblybeing worked on.

WARNINGA Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing theprocedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Introduction to the Chrysler Cirrus,Dodge Stratus and Plymouth Breeze

The Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus and injection system. lateral links.Plymouth Breeze models are four-door sedan The engine transmits power to the front The standard power rack and piniontype body styles. They feature transversely wheels through either a five-speed manual steering unit is mounted behind the enginemounted engines which were offered in three transaxle or a four-speed automatic transaxle on the front suspension crossmember. Andisplacements; a 2.0 liter in-line four-cylinder via independent driveaxles. electronically controlled variable-assistengine with a Single Overhead-Camshaft All models feature an all steel unibody speed-proportional power steering was avail-(SOHC), a 2.4 liter in-line four-cylinder engine design and independent front and rear sus- able as an option, which provided maximumwith a Dual Overhead-Camshaft (DOHC) and pension. The front suspension incorporates a power steering at low vehicle speeds.the 60-degree V6 six-cylinder engine with shock absorber/coil spring assembly with All models are equipped with powerSingle Overhead-Camshafts (SONG) (one upper and lower control arms, while the rear assisted front disc and rear drum brakes withover each cylinder head). suspension utilizes a shock absorber/coil an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) available as

All models are equipped with an elec- spring assembly and upper control arm an option.tronically controlled multi-port electronic fuel in combination with a trailing arm and

mation and procedures for routine mainte-nance and servicing; and it offers diagnosticand repair procedures to follow when troubleoccurs.

We hope you use the manual to tacklethe work yourself. For many simpler jobs,doing it yourself may be quicker than arrang-ing an appointment to get the vehicle into ashop and making the trips to leave it and pickit up. More importantly, a lot of money can besaved by avoiding the expense the shop

that Section.Procedures, once described in the text,

are not normally repeated. When it's neces-sary to refer to another Chapter, the refer-ence will be given as Chapter and Sectionnumber. Cross references given without useof the word "Chapter" apply to Sectionsand/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. Forexample, "see Section 8" means in the sameChapter.

References to the left or right side of thevehicle assume you are sitting in the driver'sseat, facing forward.

Even though we have prepared thismanual with extreme care, neither the pub-li sher nor the author can accept responsibilityfor any errors in, or omissions from, the infor-mation given.

0-6

Vehicle identification numbersModifications are a continuing and cate of Title and Registration. It contains On the models covered by this manual the

unpublicized process in vehicle manufactur- information such as where and when the engine codes are:ing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are vehicle was manufactured, the model year C............................2.0L 4-cyl SOHCcompiled on a numerical basis, the individual and the body style. H............................2.5L V6 SOHCvehicle numbers are essential to correctly X............................ 2.4L 4-cyl DOHCidentify the component required. VIN engine and model year

On the models covered by this manual theVehicle Identification Number codes

model year codes are:(VIN) Two particularly important pieces of

very important identification num- information found in the VIN are the engineThisislocated on a plate attached to the

code and the model year code. Countingberdashboard insi de the windshield on the

from the left, the engine code letter designa-tion is the 8th digit and the model year code

driver's side of the vehicle (see illustration). designation is the 10th digit.The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certifi -

S........................... 1995T........................... 1996V........................... 1997W.......................... 1998X........................... 1999Y...........................2000

The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is stamped into a metalplate fastened to the dashboard on the driver's side - it's visible

through the windshield

The Body Code Plate is mounted to the right hand shock tower inthe engine compartment

Vehicle identification numbers 0-7

On 2.0L four-cylinder engines, the engine identification number isstamped on the left rear of the engine block (behind the

starter motor)

The Vehicle Safety Certification label is affixed to the rear edge ofthe driver's door

2.4L four-cylinder engine identification number locationsOn V6 engines, the engine identification number is located on the

rear of the engine block just below the cylinder head

• OILFILTER

ENGINESERIAL NUMBERAND VIN NUMBER

Body Code PlateThe Body Code Plate is a stamped metalplate attached to the driver's side shocktower in the engine compartment (see illus-tration). It contains more specific informationabout the manufacturing of the vehicle suchas the paint code, trim code and vehicleorder number, as well as the VIN.

Vehicle Safety Certificationlabel

The Vehicle Safety Certification label isattached to the driver's side door end (seeillustration). The label contains the name ofthe manufacturer, the month and year of pro-duction, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating(GVWR), the Gross Axle Weight Rating(GAWR) and the certification statement.

Engine identification numbersThe 2.0L and 2.4L four-cylinder engine

identification numbers can be found stampedon a machined pad on the left rear of theengine block. 2.5L V6 engine identification islocated on the rear of the engine block justbelow the cylinder head (see illustrations).

Transaxle identificationnumbers

The transaxle identification informationcan be found on a bar code label located onthe front of the transaxle (see illustration).

Vehicle Emissions ControlInformation (VECI) label

The emissions control information labelis found under the hood, normally on theradiator support or the bottom side of thehood. This label contains information on theemissions control equipment installed on thevehicle, as well as tune-up specifications (seeChapter 6 for more information).

0-8

Buying partsReplacement parts are available from

many sources, which generally fall into one oftwo categories - authorized dealer partsdepartments and independent retail autoparts stores. Our advice concerning theseparts is as follows:

Retail auto parts stores: Good autoparts stores will stock frequently neededcomponents which wear out relatively fast,such as clutch components, exhaust sys-tems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. Thesestores often supply new or reconditioned

parts on an exchange basis, which can savea considerable amount of money. Discountauto parts stores are often very good placesto buy materials and parts needed for generalvehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, fil-ters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint,bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools andgeneral accessories, have convenient hours,charge lower prices and can often be foundnot far from home.

Authorized dealer parts department:This is the best source for parts which are

unique to the vehicle and not generally avail-able elsewhere (such as major engine parts,transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.).

Warranty information: If the vehicle isstill covered under warranty, be sure that anyreplacement parts purchased - regardless ofthe source - do not invalidate the warranty!

To be sure of obtaining the correctparts, have engine and chassis numbersavailable and, if possible, take the old partsalong for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques,tools and working facilitiesMaintenance techniques

There are a number of techniquesinvolved in maintenance and repair that willbe referred to throughout this manual. Appli-cation of these techniques will enable thehome mechanic to be more efficient, betterorganized and capable of performing the var-ious tasks properly, which will ensure that therepair job is thorough and complete.

FastenersFasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and

screws used to hold two or more partstogether. There are a few things to keep inmind when working with fasteners. Almost allof them use a locking device of some type,either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab orthread adhesive. All threaded fastenersshould be clean and straight, with undam-aged threads and undamaged corners on thehex head where the wrench fits. Develop thehabit of replacing all damaged nuts and boltswith new ones. Special locknuts with nylon orfiber inserts can only be used once. If theyare removed, they lose their locking abilityand must be replaced with new ones.

Rusted nuts and bolts should be treatedwith a penetrating fluid to ease removal andprevent breakage. Some mechanics use tur-pentine in a spout-type oil can, which worksquite well. After applying the rust penetrant,let it work for a few minutes before trying toloosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fastenersmay have to be chiseled or sawed off orremoved with a special nut breaker, availableat tool stores.

If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assem-bly, it can be drilled and removed with a spe-cial tool commonly available for this purpose.

Most automotive machine shops can performthis task, as well as other repair procedures,such as the repair of threaded holes thathave been stripped out.

Flat washers and lockwashers, when

removed from an assembly, should alwaysbe replaced exactly as removed. Replace anydamaged washers with new ones. Never usea lockwasher on any soft metal surface (suchas aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Metric stud strength markings

00-1HAYNES

Bolt strength marking (standard/SAE/USS; bottom - metric)

Grade 8Grade 1 or 2 Grade 5

Standard hex nutstrength markings

Metric hex nutstrength markings

Grade Identification

3 Dots

6 Dots

Hex NutGrade 5

Hex NutGrade 8 Class

10.9Class

9.8Class8.8

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities 0-9

Metric thread sizes Ft-lbs6to9

Nm9to12M-6...............................................................

M-8 ............................................................... 14to21 19to28M-10............................................................. 28to40 38to54M-12............................................................. 50 to 71 68 to 96M-14............................................................. 80 to 140 109 to 154

Pipe thread sizes5to8 7to101 /8 ................................................................

1 /4................................................................ 12 to 18 17 to 243/8................................................................ 22 to 33 30 to 441 /2 ................................................................ 25 to 35 34 to 47

U.S. thread sizes6to9 9to121/4-20.........................................................

5/16 - 18 ....................................................... 12to18 17to245/16 - 24 ....................................................... 14 to 20 19 to 273/8 - 16......................................................... 22 to 32 30 to 433/8 - 24......................................................... 27 to 38 37 to 517/16 - 14 ....................................................... 40 to 55 55 to 747/16-20....................................................... 40 to 60 55 to 811 /2 - 13......................................................... 55 to 80 75 to 108

Fastener sizesFor a number of reasons, automobile

manufacturers are making wider and wideruse of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is impor-tant to be able to tell the difference betweenstandard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) andmetric hardware, since they cannot be inter-changed.

All bolts, whether standard or metric, aresized according to diameter, thread pitch andlength. For example, a standard 1/2 - 13 x 1bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads perinch and is 1 inch long. An M12 - 1.75 x 25metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a threadpitch of 1.75 mm (the distance betweenthreads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts arenearly identical, and easily confused, but theyare not interchangeable.

In addition to the differences in diame-ter, thread pitch and length, metric and stan-dard bolts can also be distinguished byexamining the bolt heads. To begin with, thedistance across the flats on a standard bolthead is measured in inches, while the samedimension on a metric bolt is sized in millime-ters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, astandard wrench should not be used on ametric bolt and a metric wrench should notbe used on a standard bolt. Also, most stan-dard bolts have slashes radiating out fromthe center of the head to denote the grade orstrength of the bolt, which is an indication ofthe amount of torque that can be applied toit. The greater the number of slashes, thegreater the strength of the bolt. Grades 0through 5 are commonly used on automo-biles. Metric bolts have a property class(grade) number, rather than a slash, moldedinto their heads to indicate bolt strength. Inthis case, the higher the number, the strongerthe bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and10.9 are commonly used on automobiles.

Strength markings can also be used todistinguish standard hex nuts from metrichex nuts. Many standard nuts have dotsstamped into one side, while metric nuts aremarked with a number. The greater the num-ber of dots, or the higher the number, thegreater the strength of the nut.

Metric studs are also marked on theirends according to property class (grade).Larger studs are numbered (the same asmetric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geo-metric code to denote grade.

It should be noted that many fasteners,especially Grades 0 through 2, have no dis-tinguishing marks on them. When such is thecase, the only way to determine whether it isstandard or metric is to measure the threadpitch or compare it to a known fastener of thesame size.

Standard fasteners are often referred toas SAE, as opposed to metric. However, itshould be noted that SAE technically refers toa non-metric fine thread fastener only.Coarse thread non-metric fasteners arereferred to as USS sizes.

Since fasteners of the same size (bothstandard and metric) may have different

strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts,studs or nuts removed from your vehicle intheir original locations. Also, when replacinga fastener with a new one, make sure that thenew one has a strength rating equal to orgreater than the original.

Tightening sequences andprocedures

Most threaded fasteners should betightened to a specific torque value (torque isthe twisting force applied to a threaded com-ponent such as a nut or bolt). Overtighteningthe fastener can weaken it and cause it tobreak, while undertightening can cause it toeventually come loose. Bolts, screws andstuds, depending on the material they are

made of and their thread diameters, havespecific torque values, many of which arenoted in the Specifications at the beginningof each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torquerecommendations closely. For fasteners notassigned a specific torque, a general torquevalue chart is presented here as a guide.These torque values are for dry (unlubricated)fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (notaluminum). As was previously mentioned, thesize and grade of a fastener determine theamount of torque that can safely be appliedto it. The figures listed here are approximatefor Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Highergrades can tolerate higher torque values.

Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such ascylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differentialcover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tight-

T -I J *f Cfiffko r

i,p!`S'o.,'v,D

I W-2 HAYNES I

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt Metric bolt dimensions/grade marksdimensions/grade marks P Property class (bolt strength)

G Grade marks (bolt strength) L Length (in millimeters)L Length (in inches) T Thread pitch (distance betweenT Thread pitch (number of threads per threads in millimeters)

inch) D DiameterD Nominal diameter (in inches)

0-10 Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Micrometer set

ened in sequence to avoid warping the com-ponent. This sequence will normally beshown in the appropriate Chapter. If a spe-cific pattern is not given, the following proce-dures can be used to prevent warping.

Initially, the bolts or nuts should beassembled finger-tight only. Next, theyshould be tightened one full turn each, in acriss-cross or diagonal pattern. After eachone has been tightened one full turn, return tothe first one and tighten them all one-halfturn, following the same pattern. Finally,tighten each of them one-quarter turn at atime until each fastener has been tightened tothe proper torque. To loosen and remove thefasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

Component disassemblyComponent disassembly should be

done with care and purpose to help ensurethat the parts go back together properly.Always keep track of the sequence in whichparts are removed. Make note of specialcharacteristics or marks on parts that can beinstalled more than one way, such as agrooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a goodidea to lay the disassembled parts out on aclean surface in the order that they wereremoved. It may also be helpful to makesketches or take instant photos of compo-nents before removal.

When removing fasteners from a com-ponent, keep track of their locations. Some-times threading a bolt back in a part, orputting the washers and nut back on a stud,can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and boltscannot be returned to their original locations,they should be kept in a compartmented boxor a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muf-fin tin is ideal for this purpose, since eachcavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a par-ticular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve coverbolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of thistype is especially helpful when working onassemblies with very small parts, such as thecarburetor, alternator, valve train or interiordash and trim pieces. The cavities can bemarked with paint or tape to identify the con-tents.

Whenever wiring looms, harnesses orconnectors are separated, it is a good idea to

identify the two halves with numbered piecesof masking tape so they can be easily recon-nected.

Gasket sealing surfacesThroughout any vehicle, gaskets are

used to seal the mating surfaces betweentwo parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuumor pressure contained in an assembly.

Many times these gaskets are coatedwith a liquid or paste-type gasket sealingcompound before assembly. Age, heat andpressure can sometimes cause the two partsto stick together so tightly that they are verydifficult to separate. Often, the assembly canbe loosened by striking it with a soft-facehammer near the mating surfaces. A regularhammer can be used if a block of wood isplaced between the hammer and the part. Donot hammer on cast parts or parts that couldbe easily damaged. With any particularlystubborn part, always recheck to make surethat every fastener has been removed.

Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pryapart an assembly, as they can easily mar thegasket sealing surfaces of the parts, whichmust remain smooth. If prying is absolutelynecessary, use an old broom handle, butkeep in mind that extra clean up will be nec-essary if the wood splinters.

After the parts are separated, the oldgasket must be carefully scraped off and thegasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasketmaterial can be soaked with rust penetrant ortreated with a special chemical to soften it soit can be easily scraped off. A scraper can befashioned from a piece of copper tubing byflattening and sharpening one end. Copper isrecommended because it is usually softerthan the surfaces to be scraped, whichreduces the chance of gouging the part.Some gaskets can be removed with a wirebrush, but regardless of the method used,the mating surfaces must be left clean andsmooth. If for some reason the gasket sur-face is gouged, then a gasket sealer thickenough to fill scratches will have to be usedduring reassembly of the components. Formost applications, a non-drying (or semi-dry-ing) gasket sealer should be used.

Dial indicator set

Hose removal tipsWarning: If the vehicle is equipped with airconditioning, do not disconnect any of theA/C hoses without first having the systemdepressurized by a dealer service departmentor a service station.

Hose removal precautions closely paral-lel gasket removal precautions. Avoidscratching or gouging the surface that thehose mates against or the connection mayleak. This is especially true for radiator hoses.Because of various chemical reactions, therubber in hoses can bond itself to the metalspigot that the hose fits over. To remove ahose, first loosen the hose clamps thatsecure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-jointpliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotateit around the spigot. Work it back and forthuntil it is completely free, then pull it off. Sili-cone or other lubricants will ease removal ifthey can be applied between the hose andthe outside of the spigot. Apply the samelubricant to the inside of the hose and theoutside of the spigot to simplify installation.

As a last resort (and if the hose is to bereplaced with a new one anyway), the rubbercan be slit with a knife and the hose peeledfrom the spigot. If this must be done, becareful that the metal connection is not dam-aged.

If a hose clamp is broken or damaged,do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usuallyweaken with age, so it is a good idea toreplace them with screw-type clamps when-ever a hose is removed.

ToolsA selection of good tools is a basic

requirement for anyone who plans to main-tain and repair his or her own vehicle. For theowner who has few tools, the initial invest-ment might seem high, but when comparedto the spiraling costs of professional automaintenance and repair, it is a wise one.

To help the owner decide which toolsare needed to perform the tasks detailed inthis manual, the following tool lists areoffered: Maintenance and minor repair,Repair/overhaul and Special.

The newcomer to practical mechanics

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities 0-11

Dial caliper Hand-operated vacuum pump Timing light

Compression gauge with spark plughole adapter

Damper/steering wheel puller General purpose puller

Hydraulic lifter removal tool Valve spring compressor Valve spring compressor

Ridge reamer Piston ring groove cleaning tool Ring removal/installation tool

0-12 Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Ring compressor Cylinder hone Brake hold-down spring tool

Brake cylinder hone

should start off with the maintenance andminor repair tool kit, which is adequate forthe simpler jobs performed on a vehicle.Then, as confidence and experience grow,the owner can tackle more difficult tasks,buying additional tools as they are needed.Eventually the basic kit will be expanded intothe repair and overhaul tool set. Over a periodof time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer willassemble a tool set complete enough formost repair and overhaul procedures and willadd tools from the special category when it isfelt that the expense is justified by the fre-quency of use.

Maintenance and minor repairtool kit

The tools in this list should be consid-ered the minimum required for performanceof routine maintenance, servicing and minorrepair work. We recommend the purchase ofcombination wrenches (box-end and open-end combined in one wrench). While moreexpensive than open end wrenches, theyoffer the advantages of both types of wrench.

Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to1 inch or 6 mm to 19 mm)

Adjustable wrench, 8 inchSpark plug wrench with rubber insertSpark plug gap adjusting toolFeeler gauge setBrake bleeder wrenchStandard screwdriver (5/16-inch x

6 inch)

Clutch plate alignment tool

Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 inch)Combination pliers - 6 inchHacksaw and assortment of bladesTire pressure gaugeGrease gunOil canFine emery clothWire brushBattery post and cable cleaning toolOil filter wrenchFunnel (medium size)Safety gogglesJackstands (2)Drain pan

Note: Ifbasic tune-ups are going to be part ofroutine maintenance, it will be necessary topurchase a good quality stroboscopic timinglight and combination tachometer/dwellmeter. Although they are included in the listof special tools, it is mentioned here becausethey are absolutely necessary for tuning mostvehicles properly.

Repair and overhaul tool setThese tools are essential for anyone

who plans to perform major repairs and are inaddition to those in the maintenance andminor repair tool kit. Included is a compre-hensive set of sockets which, though expen-sive, are invaluable because of their versatil-ity, especially when various extensions anddrives are available. We recommend the 1/2-inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Althoughthe larger drive is bulky and more expensive,

Tap and die set

it has the capacity of accepting a very widerange of large sockets. Ideally, however, themechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive setand a 1/2-inch drive set.

Socket set(s)Reversible ratchetExtension - 10 inchUniversal jointTorque wrench (same size drive as

sockets)Ball peen hammer - 8 ounceSoft-face hammer (plastic/rubber)Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch)Standard screwdriver (stubby -

5/16-inch)Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 inch)Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No. 2)Pliers - vise gripPliers - lineman'sPliers - needle nosePliers - snap-ring (internal and external)Cold chisel - 1/2-inchScribeScraper (made from flattened copper

tubing)CenterpunchPin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch)Steel rule/straightedge - 12 inchAllen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or

4mmto10mm)A selection of filesWire brush (large)Jackstands (second set)Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities 0-13

Note: Another tool which is often useful is anelectric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inchand a set of good quality drill bits.

Special toolsThe tools in this list include those which

are not used regularly, are expensive to buy,or which need to be used in accordance withtheir manufacturer's instructions. Unlessthese tools will be used frequently, it is notvery economical to purchase many of them.A consideration would be to split the costand use between yourself and a friend orfriends. In addition, most of these tools canbe obtained from a tool rental shop on a tem-porary basis.

This list primarily contains only thosetools and instruments widely available to thepublic, and not those special tools producedby the vehicle manufacturer for distribution todealer service departments. Occasionally,references to the manufacturer's specialtools are included in the text of this manual.Generally, an alternative method of doing thejob without the special tool is offered. How-ever, sometimes there is no alternative totheir use. Where this is the case, and the toolcannot be purchased or borrowed, the workshould be turned over to the dealer servicedepartment or an automotive repair shop.

Valve spring compressorPiston ring groove cleaning toolPiston ring compressorPiston ring installation toolCylinder compression gaugeCylinder ridge reamerCylinder surfacing honeCylinder bore gaugeMicrometers and/or dial calipersHydraulic lifter removal toolBalljoint separatorUniversal-type pullerI mpact screwdriverDial indicator setStroboscopic timing light (inductive

pick-up)Hand operated vacuum/pressure pumpTachometer/dwell meterUniversal electrical multimeterCable hoistBrake spring removal and installation

toolsFloor jack

Buying toolsFor the do-it-yourselfer who is just start-

ing to get involved in vehicle maintenanceand repair, there are a number of optionsavailable when purchasing tools. If mainte-nance and minor repair is the extent of thework to be done, the purchase of individualtools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand,extensive work is planned, it would be a goodidea to purchase a modest tool set from oneof the large retail chain stores. A set can usu-ally be bought at a substantial savings overthe individual tool prices, and they oftencome with a tool box. As additional tools are

needed, add-on sets, individual tools and alarger tool box can be purchased to expandthe tool selection. Building a tool set gradu-ally allows the cost of the tools to be spreadover a longer period of time and gives themechanic the freedom to choose only thosetools that will actually be used.

Tool stores will often be the only sourceof some of the special tools that are needed,but regardless of where tools are bought, tryto avoid cheap ones, especially when buyingscrewdrivers and sockets, because theywon't last very long. The expense involved inreplacing cheap tools will eventually begreater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Care and maintenance of toolsGood tools are expensive, so it makes

sense to treat them with respect. Keep themclean and in usable condition and store themproperly when not in use. Always wipe off anydirt, grease or metal chips before puttingthem away. Never leave tools lying around inthe work area. Upon completion of a job,always check closely under the hood for toolsthat may have been left there so they won'tget lost during a test drive.

Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pli-ers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on apanel mounted on the garage or workshopwall, while others should be kept in a tool boxor tray. Measuring instruments, gauges,meters, etc. must be carefully stored wherethey cannot be damaged by weather orimpact from other tools.

When tools are used with care andstored properly, they will last a very longtime. Even with the best of care, though,tools will wear out if used frequently. When atool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Sub-sequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyableif you do.

How to repair damagedthreads

Sometimes, the internal threads of a nutor bolt hole can become stripped, usuallyfrom overtightening. Stripping threads is anall-too-common occurrence, especially whenworking with aluminum parts, because alu-minum is so soft that it easily strips out.

Usually, external or internal threads areonly partially stripped. After they've beencleaned up with a tap or die, they'll still work.Sometimes, however, threads are badly dam-aged. When this happens, you've got threechoices:

1) Drill and tap the hole to the next suitableoversize and install a larger diameterbolt, screw or stud.

2) Drill and tap the hole to accept athreaded plug, then drill and tap the plugto the original screw size. You can alsobuy a plug already threaded to the origi-nal size. Then you simply drill a hole tothe specified size, then run the threadedplug into the hole with a bolt and jam

nut. Once the plug is fully seated,remove the jam nut and bolt.

3) The third method uses a patentedthread repair kit like Heli-Coil or Slimsert.These easy-to-use kits are designed torepair damaged threads in straight-through holes and blind holes. Both areavailable as kits which can handle a vari-ety of sizes and thread patterns. Drill thehole, then tap it with the specialincluded tap. Install the Heli-Coil and thehole is back to its original diameter andthread pitch.Regardless of which method you use,

be sure to proceed calmly and carefully. A lit-tle impatience or carelessness during one ofthese relatively simple procedures can ruinyour whole day's work and cost you a bundleif you wreck an expensive part.

Working facilitiesNot to be overlooked when discussing

tools is the workshop. If anything more thanroutine maintenance is to be carried out,some sort of suitable work area is essential.

It is understood, and appreciated, thatmany home mechanics do not have a goodworkshop or garage available, and end upremoving an engine or doing major repairsoutside. It is recommended, however, thatthe overhaul or repair be completed underthe cover of a roof.

A clean, flat workbench or table of com-fortable working height is an absolute neces-sity. The workbench should be equipped witha vise that has a jaw opening of at least fourinches.

As mentioned previously, some clean,dry storage space is also required for tools,as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning sol-vents, etc. which soon become necessary.

Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drainedfrom the engine or cooling system during nor-mal maintenance or repairs, present a dis-posal problem. To avoid pouring them on theground or into a sewage system, pour theused fluids into large containers, seal themwith caps and take them to an authorizeddisposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs,such as old antifreeze containers, are idealfor this purpose.

Always keep a supply of old newspa-pers and clean rags available. Old towels areexcellent for mopping up spills. Manymechanics use rolls of paper towels for mostwork because they are readily available anddisposable. To help keep the area under thevehicle clean, a large cardboard box can becut open and flattened to protect the garageor shop floor.

Whenever working over a painted sur-face, such as when leaning over a fender toservice something under the hood, alwayscover it with an old blanket or bedspread toprotect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, madeespecially for this purpose, are available atauto parts stores.

0-14

Booster battery (jump) startingObserve these precautions when using a booster battery to start

a vehicle:a) Before connecting the booster battery, make sure the ignition

switch is in the OFF position.b) Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads.c) Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea.d) Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead

one in the vehicle.e) The two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other!f) Make sure the transaxle is in Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic).g) If the booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the

vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes.The battery on these vehicles is located inside the wheel well of

the left front fender. Due to the lack of accessibility, remote batteryconnections are provided inside the engine compartment for jump-starting and easy battery disconnection (see illustration).

Connect the red colored jumper cable to the positive (+) terminalof booster battery and the other end to the positive (+) remote terminalinside the engine compartment. Then connect one end of the blackcolored jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal of the booster batteryand other end of the cable to the negative (-) remote terminal.

Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the enginerunning at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverseorder of connection.

The remote battery terminals (arrows) are located in the enginecompartment and well marked - when connecting jumper cables

connect the cable to the positive terminal first,then the negative terminal

0-15

Jacking and towingJackingWarning: The jack supplied with the vehicleshould only be used for changing a tire orplacing jackstands under the frame. Neverwork under the vehicle or start the enginewhile this jack is being used as the onlymeans of support.

The vehicle should be on level ground.Place the shift lever in Park, if you have anautomatic, or Reverse if you have a manualtransaxle. Block the wheel diagonally oppo-site the wheel being changed. Set the parkingbrake.

Remove the spare tire and jack fromstowage. Remove the wheel cover and trimring (if so equipped) with the tapered end ofthe lug nut wrench by inserting and twistingthe handle and then prying against the backof the wheel cover. Loosen the wheel lug nutsabout 1/4-to-1/2 turn each.

Place the scissors-type jack under theside of the vehicle and adjust the jack heightuntil it fits in the notch in the vertical rockerpanel flange nearest the wheel to bechanged. There is a front and rear jackingpoint on each side of the vehicle (see illus-tration).

Turn the jack handle clockwise until thetire clears the ground. Remove the lug nutsand pull the wheel off. Replace it with thespare.

Install the lug nuts with the bevelededges facing in. Tighten them snugly. Don't

attempt to tighten them completely until thevehicle is lowered or it could slip off the jack.Turn the jack handle counterclockwise tolower the vehicle. Remove the jack andtighten the lug nuts in a diagonal pattern.

Install the cover (and trim ring, if used)and be sure it's snapped into place all theway around.

Stow the tire, jack and wrench. Unblockthe wheels.

TowingAs a general rule, the vehicle should be

towed with the front (drive) wheels off theground. If they can't be raised, place them ona dolly. The ignition key must be in the ACCposition, since the steering lock mechanismisn't strong enough to hold the front wheelsstraight while towing.

Vehicles equipped with an automatictransaxle can be towed from the front onlywith all four wheels on the ground, providedthat speeds don't exceed 25 mph and thedistance is not over 15 miles. Before towing,check the transmission fluid level (see Chap-ter 1). If the level is below the HOT line on thedipstick, add fluid or use a towing dolly.Caution: Never tow a vehicle with an auto-matic transaxle from the rear with the frontwheels on the ground.

When towing a vehicle equipped with amanual transaxle with all four wheels on theground, be sure to place the shift lever in

The jack fits over the rocker panel flange(there are two jacking points on each sideof the vehicle, indicated by a notch in the

rocker panel flange)

Neutral and release the parking brake.Equipment specifically designed for

towing should be used. It should be attachedto the main structural members of the vehi-cle, not the bumpers, brackets or suspen-sion.

Safety is a major consideration whentowing and all applicable state and local lawsmust be obeyed. A safety chain system mustbe used at all times.

0-16

Automotive chemicals and lubricantsA number of automotive chemicals and

lubricants are available for use during vehiclemaintenance and repair. They include a widevariety of products ranging from cleaning sol-vents and degreasers to lubricants and pro-tective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

CleanersCarburetor cleaner and choke cleaner

is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and car-bon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a dry-type lubricant film which will not harden orgum up. Because of this film it is not recom-mended for use on electrical components.

Brake system cleaner is used toremove grease and brake fluid from the brakesystem, where clean surfaces are absolutelynecessary. It leaves no residue and ofteneliminates brake squeal caused by contami-nants.

Electrical cleaner removes oxidation,corrosion and carbon deposits from electricalcontacts, restoring full current flow. It can alsobe used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets,voltage regulators and other parts where anoil-free surface is desired.

Demoisturants remove water and mois-ture from electrical components such as alter-nators, voltage regulators, electrical connec-tors and fuse blocks. They are non-conduc-tive, non-corrosive and non-flammable.

Degreasers are heavy-duty solventsused to remove grease from the outside of theengine and from chassis components. Theycan be sprayed or brushed on and, depend-ing on the type, are rinsed off either with wateror solvent.

LubricantsMotor oil is the lubricant formulated for

use in engines. It normally contains a widevariety of additives to prevent corrosion andreduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes invarious weights (viscosity ratings) from 0 to50. The recommended weight of the oildepends on the season, temperature and thedemands on the engine. Light oil is used incold climates and under light load conditions.Heavy oil is used in hot climates and wherehigh loads are encountered. Multi-viscosityoils are designed to have characteristics ofboth light and heavy oils and are available ina number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50.

Gear oil is designed to be used in differ-entials, manual transmissions and otherareas where high-temperature lubrication isrequired.

Chassis and wheel bearing grease is aheavy grease used where increased loadsand friction are encountered, such as forwheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends anduniversal joints.

High-temperature wheel bearinggrease is designed to withstand the extremetemperatures encountered by wheel bearings

in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usuallycontains molybdenum disulfide (moly), whichis a dry-type lubricant.

White grease is a heavy grease formetal-to-metal applications where water is aproblem. White grease stays soft under bothlow and high temperatures (usually from -100to +190-degrees F), and will not wash off ordilute in the presence of water.

Assembly lube is a special extremepressure lubricant, usually containing moly,used to lubricate high-load parts (such asmain and rod bearings and cam lobes) for ini-tial start-up of a new engine. The assemblytube lubricates the parts without beingsqueezed out or washed away until theengine oiling system begins to function.

Silicone lubricants are used to protectrubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts.

Graphite lubricants are used where oilscannot be used due to contamination prob-lems, such as in locks. The dry graphite willlubricate metal parts while remaining uncon-taminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It iselectrically conductive and will not foul elec-trical contacts in locks such as the ignitionswitch.

Maly penetrants loosen and lubricatefrozen, rusted and corroded fasteners andprevent future rusting or freezing.

Heat-sink grease is a special electri-cally non-conductive grease that is used formounting electronic ignition modules where itis essential that heat is transferred away fromthe module.

SealantsRTV sealant is one of the most widely

used gasket compounds. Made from sili-cone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds,waterproofs, fills surface irregularities,remains flexible, doesn't shrink, is relativelyeasy to remove, and is used as a supplemen-tary sealer with almost all low and mediumtemperature gaskets.

Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV inthat it can be used either to seal gaskets or toform gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, issolvent resistant and fills surface imperfec-tions. The difference between an anaerobicsealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the cur-ing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while ananaerobic sealant cures only in the absenceof air. This means that an anaerobic sealantcures only after the assembly of parts, seal-ing them together.

Thread and pipe sealant is used forsealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings andvacuum lines. It is usually made from a Tefloncompound, and comes in a spray, a paint-onli quid and as a wrap-around tape.

ChemicalsAnti-seize compound prevents seizing,

galling, cold welding, rust and corrosion in

fasteners. High-temperature ant-seize, usu-ally made with copper and graphite lubri-cants, is used for exhaust system andexhaust manifold bolts.

Anaerobic locking compounds areused to keep fasteners from vibrating orworking loose and cure only after installation,in the absence of air. Medium strength lock-ing compound is used for small nuts, boltsand screws that may be removed later. High-strength locking compound is for large nuts,bolts and studs which aren't removed on aregular basis.

Oil additives range from viscosity indeximprovers to chemical treatments that claimto reduce internal engine friction. It should benoted that most oil manufacturers cautionagainst using additives with their oils.

Gas additives perform several func-tions, depending on their chemical makeup.They usually contain solvents that help dis-solve gum and varnish that build up on car-buretor, fuel injection and intake parts. Theyalso serve to break down carbon depositsthat form on the inside surfaces of the com-bustion chambers. Some additives containupper cylinder lubricants for valves and pis-ton rings, and others contain chemicals toremove condensation from the gas tank.

MiscellaneousBrake fluid is specially formulated

hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heatand pressure encountered in brake systems.Care must be taken so this fluid does notcome in contact with painted surfaces orplastics. An opened container should alwaysbe resealed to prevent contamination bywater or dirt.

Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bondweatherstripping around doors, windows andtrunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trimpieces.

Undercoating is a petroleum-based,tar-like substance that is designed to protectmetal surfaces on the underside of the vehi-cle from corrosion. It also acts as a sound-deadening agent by insulating the bottom ofthe vehicle.

Waxes and polishes are used to helpprotect painted and plated surfaces from theweather. Different types of paint may requirethe use of different types of wax and polish.Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasivecleaner to help remove the top layer of oxi-dized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recentyears many non-wax polishes that contain awide variety of chemicals such as polymersand silicones have been introduced. Thesenon-wax polishes are usually easier to applyand last longer than conventional waxes andpolishes.

Conversion factorsLength (distance)Inches (in) X 25.4 = Millimetres (mm) X 0.0394 = Inches (in)Feet (ft) X 0.305 = Metres (m) X 3.281 = Feet (ft)Miles X 1.609 = Kilometres (km) X 0.621 = Miles

Volume (capacity)Cubic inches (cu in; in 3 ) X 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm 3 ) X 0.061 = Cubic inches (cu in; in 3)I mperial pints (Imp pt) X 0.568 = Litres (I) X 1.76 = Imperial pints (Imp pt)I mperial quarts (Imp qt) X 1.137 = Litres (I) X 0.88 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)I mperial quarts (Imp qt) X 1.201 = US quarts (US qt) X 0.833 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)US quarts (US qt) X 0.946 = Litres (I) X 1.057 = US quarts (US qt)I mperial gallons (Imp gal) X 4.546 = Litres (I) X 0.22 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)I mperial gallons (Imp gal) X 1.201 = US gallons (US gal) X 0.833 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)US gallons (US gal) X 3.785 = Litres (I) X 0.264 = US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight)Ounces (oz) X 28.35 = Grams (g) X 0.035 = Ounces (oz)Pounds (lb) X 0.454 = Kilograms (kg) X 2.205 = Pounds (lb)

ForceOunces-force (ozf; oz) X 0.278 = Newtons (N) X 3.6 = Ounces-force (ozf; oz)Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib) X 4.448 = Newtons (N) X 0.225 = Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib)Newtons (N) X 0.1 = Kilograms-force (kgf; kg) X 9.81 = Newtons (N)

PressurePounds-force per square inch X 0.070 = Kilograms-force per square X 1 4.223 = Pounds-force per square inch(psi; Ibf/in2 ; lb/in 2 ) centimetre (kgf/cm 2 ; kg/cm 2 ) (psi; Ibf/in 2 ; lb/in 2 )Pounds-force per square inch X 0.068 = Atmospheres (atm) X 1 4.696 = Pounds-force per square inch(psi; Ibf/in2 ; lb/in 2 ) (psi; Ibf/in 2 ; lb/in 2 )Pounds-force per square inch. X 0.069 = Bars X 1 4.5 = Pounds-force per square inch(psi; lbf/in 2 ; lb/in 2 ) (psi; Ibf/in 2 ; lb/in 2 )Pounds-force per square inch X 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa) X 0.145 = Pounds-force per square inch(psi; Ibf/in 2 ; lb/in 2 ) (psi; Ibf/in 2 ; lb/in2 )Kilopascals (kPa) X 0.01 = Kilograms-force per square X 98.1 = Kilopascals (kPa)

Torque (moment of force)Pounds-force inches

centimetre (kgf/cm2 ; kg/cm 2 )

= Kilograms-force centimetre X 0.868 = Pounds-force inchesX 1.152(Ibf in; lb in) (kgf cm; kg cm) (Ibf in; lb in)Pounds-force inches X 0.113 = Newton metres (Nm) X 8.85 = Pounds-force inches(Ibf in; lb in) (Ibf in; lb in)Pounds-force inches X 0.083 = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) X 12 = Pounds-force inches(Ibf in; lb in) (Ibf in; lb in)Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) X 0.138 = Kilograms-force metres X 7.233 = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) X 1.356(kgf m; kg m)

= Newton metres (Nm) X 0.738 = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)Newton metres (Nm) X 0.102 = Kilograms-force metres X 9.804 = Newton metres (Nm)

VacuumInches mercury (in. Hg) X 3.377

(kgf m; kg m)

= Kilopascals (kPa) X 0.2961 = Inches mercuryInches mercury (in. Hg) X 25.4 = Millimeters mercury (mm Hg) X 0.0394 = Inches mercury

PowerHorsepower (hp) X 745.7 = Watts (W) X 0.0013 = Horsepower (hp)

Velocity (speed)Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph) X 1.609 = Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) X 0.621 = Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption*Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) X 0.354 = Kilometres per litre (km/I) X 2.825 = Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg)Miles per gallon, US (mpg) X 0.425 = Kilometres per litre (km/I) X 2.352 = Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

TemperatureDegrees Fahrenheit = (°C x 1.8) + 32 Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) x 0.56

It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (Mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (l/100km),where mpg (Imperial) x l/100 km = 282 and mpg (US) x l/100 km = 235

0-18

Safety first!Regardless of how enthusiastic you

may be about getting on with the job athand, take the time to ensure that yoursafety is not jeopardized. A moment's lack ofattention can result in an accident, as canfailure to observe certain simple safety pre-cautions. The possibility of an accident willalways exist, and the following points shouldnot be considered a comprehensive list of alldangers. Rather, they are intended to makeyou aware of the risks and to encourage asafety conscious approach to all work youcarry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON'TsDON'T rely on a jack when working under thevehicle. Always use approved jackstands tosupport the weight of the vehicle and placethem under the recommended lift or supportpoints.DON'T attempt to loosen extremely tight fas-teners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle ison a jack - it may fall.DON'T start the engine without first makingsure that the transmission is in Neutral (orPark where applicable) and the parking brakeis set.DON'T remove the radiator cap from a hotcooling system - let it cool or cover it with acloth and release the pressure gradually.DON'T attempt to drain the engine oil untilyou are sure it has cooled to the point that itwill not burn you.DON'T touch any part of the engine or ex-haust system until it has cooled sufficiently toavoid burns.DON'T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline,antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allowthem to remain on your skin.DON'T inhale brake lining dust - it is poten-tially hazardous (see Asbestos below).DON'T allow spilled oil or grease to remainon the floor - wipe it up before someone slipson it.DON'T use loose fitting wrenches or othertools which may slip and cause injury.DON'T push on wrenches when loosening ortightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull thewrench toward you. If the situation calls forpushing the wrench away, push with an openhand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrenchshould slip.DON'T attempt to lift a heavy componentalone - get someone to help you.DON'T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finisha job.DON'T allow children or animals in or aroundthe vehicle while you are working on it.DO wear eye protection when using powertools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder,

etc. and when working under a vehicle.DO keep loose clothing and long hair well outof the way of moving parts.DO make sure that any hoist used has a safeworking load rating adequate for the job.DO get someone to check on you periodicallywhen working alone on a vehicle.DO carry out work in a logical sequence andmake sure that everything is correctly assem-bled and tightened.DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly cappedand out of the reach of children and pets.DO remember that your vehicle's safetyaffects that of yourself and others. If in doubton any point, get professional advice.

AsbestosCertain friction, insulating, sealing, and

other products - such as brake linings, brakebands, clutch linings, torque converters, gas-kets, etc. - may contain asbestos. Extremecare must be taken to avoid inhalation of dustfrom such products, since it is hazardous tohealth. If in doubt, assume that they do con-tain asbestos.

FireRemember at all times that gasoline is

highly flammable. Never smoke or have anykind of open flame around when working on avehicle. But the risk does not end there. Aspark caused by an electrical short circuit, bytwo metal surfaces contacting each other, oreven by static electricity built up in your bodyunder certain conditions, can ignite gasolinevapors, which in a confined space are highlyexplosive. Do not, under any circumstances,use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use anapproved safety solvent.

Always disconnect the battery ground (-)cable at the battery before working on anypart of the fuel system or electrical system.Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine orexhaust component. It is strongly recom-mended that a fire extinguisher suitable foruse on fuel and electrical fires be kept handyin the garage or workshop at all times. Nevertry to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire withwater.

FumesCertain fumes are highly toxic and can

quickly cause unconsciousness and evendeath if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vaporfalls into this category, as do the vapors fromsome cleaning solvents. Any draining orpouring of such volatile fluids should be donein a well ventilated area.

When using cleaning fluids and sol-vents, read the instructions on the container

carefully. Never use materials from unmarkedcontainers.

Never run the engine in an enclosedspace, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes con-tain carbon monoxide, which is extremelypoisonous. If you need to run the engine,always do so in the open air, or at least havethe rear of the vehicle outside the work area.

If you are fortunate enough to have theuse of an inspection pit, never drain or pourgasoline and never run the engine while thevehicle is over the pit. The fumes, beingheavier than air, will concentrate in the pitwith possibly lethal results.

The batteryNever create a spark or allow a bare

light bulb near a battery. They normally giveoff a certain amount of hydrogen gas, whichis highly explosive.

Always disconnect the battery ground (-)cable at the battery before working on thefuel or electrical systems.

If possible, loosen the filler caps orcover when charging the battery from anexternal source (this does not apply to sealedor maintenance-free batteries). Do notcharge at an excessive rate or the batterymay burst.

Take care when adding water to a nonmaintenance-free battery and when carryinga battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted,is very corrosive and should not be allowedto contact clothing or skin.

Always wear eye protection when clean-ing the battery to prevent the causticdeposits from entering your eyes.

Household currentWhen using an electric power tool,

inspection light, etc., which operates onhousehold current, always make sure that thetool is correctly connected to its plug andthat, where necessary, it is properlygrounded. Do not use such items in dampconditions and, again, do not create a sparkor apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuelor fuel vapor.

Secondary ignition systemvoltage

A severe electric shock can result fromtouching certain parts of the ignition system(such as the spark plug wires) when theengine is running or being cranked, particu-larly if components are damp or the insulationis defective. In the case of an electronic igni-tion system, the secondary system voltage ismuch higher and could prove fatal.

0-19

TroubleshootingContents

Symptom Section Symptom Section

EngineEngine backfires............................................................................. 19Engine diesels (continues to run) after switching off ..................... 18Engine hard to start when cold ...................................................... 3Engine hard to start when hot........................................................ 4Engine lacks power........................................................................ 14Engine lopes while idling or idles erratically .................................. 8Engine misses at idle speed ........................................................... 9Engine misses throughout driving speed range.............................10Engine rotates but will not start ..................................................... 2Engine runs with oil pressure light on ............................................ 17Engine stalls................................................................................... 13Engine starts but stops immediately .............................................. 6Engine stumbles on acceleration................................................... 11Engine surges while holding accelerator steady ............................ 12Engine will not rotate when attempting to start ............................. 1Oil puddle under engine................................................................. 7Pinging or knocking engine sounds during

acceleration or uphill .................................................................Starter motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement .............

Engine electrical systemAlternator light fails to come on when key is turned on.................Alternator light fails to go out .........................................................Battery will not hold a charge........................................................

Fuel and emissions systemsCHECK ENGINE light remains on or is flashing .............................Excessive fuel consumption...........................................................Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor ........................................................

Cooling systemCoolant loss...................................................................................External coolant leakage................................................................Internal coolant leakage .................................................................Overcooling....................................................................................Overheating....................................................................................Poor coolant circulation.................................................................

ClutchClutch pedal stays on floor ............................................................Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase

in vehicle speed........................................................................Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged...................................High pedal effort ............................................................................Noise in clutch area .......................................................................Pedal travels to floor - no pressure

or very little resistance..............................................................Transaxle rattling (clicking) .............................................................Unable to select gears...................................................................

Manual transaxleClicking noise in turns....................................................................Clunk on acceleration or deceleration ...........................................Knocking noise at low speeds .......................................................

Leaks lubricant.....................................................................................48Hard to shift.........................................................................................49Noise most pronounced when turning.................................................40Noisy in all gears ..................................................................................46Noisy in neutral with engine running....................................................44Noisy in one particular gear.................................................................45Slips out of gear..................................................................... :............ 47Vibration...............................................................................................43

Automatic transaxleEngine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral ............................54Fluid leakage........................................................................................50General shift mechanism problems..................................................... 52Transaxle fluid brown or has burned smell ..........................................51Transaxle slips, shifts roughly, is noisy or has no drive

in forward or reverse gears.............................................................55Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal

pressed to the floor ........................................................................ 53

DriveaxlesClicking noise in turns..........................................................................56Shudder or vibration during acceleration .............................................57Vibration at highway speeds ................................................................58

BrakesBrake pedal feels spongy when depressed .........................................66Brake pedal travels to the floor with little resistance ........................... 67Brake roughness or chatter (pedal pulsates) ....................................... 61Dragging brakes...................................................................................64Excessive brake pedal travel ............................................................... 63Excessive pedal effort required to stop vehicle...................................62Grabbing or uneven braking action ..................................................... 65Noise (high-pitched squeal when the brakes are applied) ...................60Parking brake does not hold ................................................................68Vehicle pulls to one side during braking ..............................................59

Suspension and steering systemsAbnormal or excessive tire wear..........................................................70Abnormal noise at the front end .......................................................... 75Cupped tires ........................................................................................ 80Erratic steering when braking .............................................................. 77Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners or

during braking .................................................................................78Excessive play or looseness in steering system ..................................84Excessive tire wear on inside edge......................................................82Excessive tire wear on outside edge ................................................... 81Hard steering ........................................................................................73Poor returnability of steering to center................................................ 74Rattling or clicking noise in steering gear ............................................85Shimmy, shake or vibration..................................................................72Suspension bottoms............................................................................79Tire tread worn in one place ................................................................ 83

42 Vehicle pulls to one side ...................................................................... 6941 Wander or poor steering stability .........................................................7639 Wheel makes a thumping noise...........................................................71

165

192021

222324

292728262530

37

33343836

313532

0-20 Troubleshooting

This section provides an easy referenceguide to the more common problems whichmay occur during the operation of your vehi-cle. These problems and their possiblecauses are grouped under headings denotingvarious components or systems, such asEngine, Cooling system, etc. They also referyou to the chapter and/or section whichdeals with the problem.

Remember that successful trou-bleshooting is not a mysterious art practicedonly by professional mechanics. It is simplythe result of the right knowledge combinedwith an intelligent, systematic approach tothe problem. Always work by a process ofelimination, starting with the simplest solutionand working through to the most complex -and never overlook the obvious. Anyone canrun the gas tank dry or leave the lights onovernight, so don't assume that you areexempt from such oversights.

Finally, always establish a clear idea ofwhy a problem has occurred and take stepsto ensure that it doesn't happen again. If theelectrical system fails because of a poor con-nection, check the other connections in thesystem to make sure that they don't fail aswell. If a particular fuse continues to blow,find out why - don't just replace one fuseafter another. Remember, failure of a smallcomponent can often be indicative of poten-tial failure or incorrect functioning of a moreimportant component or system.

engaged in Park (Chapter 7B) or clutch pedalnot completely depressed (Chapter 8).4 Broken, loose or disconnected wiring inthe starting circuit (Chapters 5 and 12).5 Starter motor pinion jammed in flywheelring gear (Chapter 5).6 Starter solenoid faulty (Chapter 5).7 Starter motor faulty (Chapter 5).8 Ignition switch faulty (Chapter 12).9 Starter pinion or flywheel teeth worn orbroken (Chapter 5).10 Defective fusible link (see Chapter 12).

2 Engine rotates but will not start

1 Fuel tank empty.2 Battery discharged (engine rotates slow-ly) (Chapter 5).3 Battery terminal connections loose orcorroded (Chapters 1 and 5).4 Leaking fuel injector(s), faulty fuel pump,pressure regulator, etc. (Chapter 4).

5 Broken or stripped timing belt (Chap-ter 2).6 Ignition components damp or damaged(Chapter 5).7 Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped sparkplugs (Chapter 1).8 Broken, loose or disconnected wiring inthe starting circuit (Chapter 5).9 Broken, loose or disconnected wires atthe ignition coil(s) or faulty coil(s) (Chapter 5).10 Defective crankshaft sensor, camshaftsensor or PCM (see Chapter 6).

3 Engine hard to start when cold

1 Battery discharged or low (Chapter 1).2 Malfunctioning fuel system (Chapter 4).3 Faulty coolant temperature sensor orintake air temperature sensor (Chapter 6).4 Fuel injector(s) leaking (Chapter 4).5 Faulty ignition system (Chapter 5).6 Defective MAP sensor (see Chapter 6).

4 Engine hard to start when hot

1 Air filter clogged (Chapter 1).2 Fuel not reaching the fuel injection sys-tem (Chapter 4).3 Corroded battery connections, espe-cially ground (Chapters 1 and 5).4 Faulty coolant temperature sensor orintake air temperature sensor (Chapter 6).

6 Engine starts but stopsi mmediately

1 Loose or faulty electrical connections atignition coil (Chapter 5).2 Insufficient fuel reaching the fuel injec-tor(s) (Chapters 4).3 Vacuum leak at the gasket between theintake manifold/plenum and throttle body(Chapter 4).4 Fault in the engine control system(Chapter 6).5 Intake air leaks, broken vacuum lines(see Chapter 4).

Oil puddle under engine

1 Oil pan gasket and/or oil pan drain boltwasher leaking (Chapter 2).2 Oil pressure sending unit leaking (Chap-ter 2C).

3 Oil filter or adapter block leaking (Chap-ter 1).4 Valve cover(s) leaking (Chapter 2).5 Engine oil seals leaking (Chapter 2).

8 Engine lopes while idling or idleserratically

1 Vacuum leakage (Chapters 2 and 4).2 Leaking EGR valve or EGR vacuum lines(Chapter 6).3 Air filter clogged (Chapter 1).4 Fuel pump not delivering sufficient fuelto the fuel injection system (Chapter 4).5 Leaking head gasket (Chapter 2).6 Timing belt and/or pulleys worn (Chap-ter 2).7 Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2).

9 Engine misses at idle speed

1 Spark plugs worn or not gapped prop-erly (Chapter 1).2 Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter 1).3 Vacuum leaks (Chapters 2 and 4).4 Faulty ignition coil(s) (Chapter 5).5 Uneven or low compression (Chapter 2).6 Faulty fuel injector(s) (Chapter 4).

10 Engine misses throughout drivingspeed range

1 Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities inthe fuel system (Chapter 4).2 Low fuel output at the fuel injector(s)(Chapter 4).3 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs(Chapter 1).4 Defective spark plug wires (Chapters 1or 5).5 Faulty emission system components(Chapter 6).6 Low or uneven cylinder compressionpressures (Chapter 2).7 Burned valves (Chapter 2).8 Weak or faulty ignition system (Chap-ter 5).9 Vacuum leak in fuel injection system,throttle body, intake manifold or vacuumhoses (Chapter 4).

11 Engine stumbles on acceleration

1 Spark plugs fouled (Chapter 1).2 Problem with fuel injection system(Chapter 4).3 Fuel filter clogged (Chapter 4).4 Fault in the engine control system(Chapter 6).5 Intake manifold air leak (Chapters 2and 4).6 EGR system malfunction (Chapter 6).

Engine5 Starter motor noisy or

1 Engine will not rotate when excessively rough in engagement

attempting to start1 Pinion or flywheel gear teeth worn or

1 Battery terminal connections loose orbroken (Chapter 5).2 Starter motor mounting bolts loose ormissing (Chapter 5).corroded (Chapters 1 and 5).

2 Battery discharged or faulty (Chapter 1).3 Automatic transaxle not completely

Troubleshooting 0-21

12 Engine surges while holdingaccelerator steady

1 Intake air leak (Chapter 4).2 Fuel pump or fuel pressure regulatorfaulty (Chapter 4).3 Problem with fuel injection system(Chapter 4).4 Problem with the emissions control sys-tem (Chapter 6).

16 Pinging or knocking enginesounds during acceleration oruphill

1 Incorrect grade of fuel.2 Problem with the engine control system(Chapter 6).3 Fuel injection system faulty (Chapter 4).4 Improper or damaged spark plugs orwires (Chapter 1).

4 Alternator not charging properly (Chap-ter 5).5 Loose, broken or faulty wiring in thecharging circuit (Chapter 5).6 Short in vehicle wiring (Chapter 12).7 Internally defective battery (Chapters 1and 5).

Fuel and emissions systems

13 Engine stalls

1 Idle speed incorrect (Chapter 1).2 Fuel filter clogged and/or water andimpurities in the fuel system (Chapter 4).3 Ignition components damp or damaged(Chapter 5).4 Faulty emissions system components(Chapter 6).5 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs(Chapter 1).6 Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter 1).7 Vacuum leak in the fuel injection system,intake manifold or vacuum hoses (Chapters 2and 4).

5 EGR valve not functioning (Chapter 6).6 Vacuum leak (Chapters 2 and 4). 22

17 Engine runs with oil pressurelight on

1a)

1' Low oil level (Chapter 1). b)2 Idle rpm below specification (Chapter 1).3 Short in wiring circuit (Chapter 12).4 Faulty oil pressure sender (Chapter 2C). 25 Worn engine bearings and/or oil pump(Chapter 2).

18 Engine diesels (continues to run)after switching off

CHECK ENGINE light remains onor is flashing

Light remains on:Fuel filler cap (gas cap) is not seated ortightened properly.On-Board Diagnostic (OBD-ll) computerhas detected an emissions or fuel injec-tion component fault (Chapter 6).Light is flashing:If the CHECK ENGINE light is flashing,severe catalytic converter damage hasoccurred and engine power loss willsoon result. Take the vehicle to yournearest dealer service department orother qualified shop for immediaterepair.

14 Engine lacks power

1 Worn camshaft lobes (Chapter 2).2 Burned valves or incorrect valve timing(Chapter 2).3 Faulty spark plug wires or faulty coil(s)(Chapters 1 and 5).4 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs(Chapter 1).5 Problem with the fuel injection system(Chapter 4).6 Plugged air filter (Chapter 1).7 Brakes binding (Chapter 9).8 Automatic transaxle fluid level incorrect(Chapter 1).9 Clutch slipping (Chapter 8).10 Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities inthe fuel system (Chapter 4).11 Emission control system not functioningproperly (Chapter 6).12 Low or uneven cylinder compressionpressures (Chapter 2).13 Restricted exhaust system or catalyticconverter (Chapter 4).

15 Engine backfires

1 Emission control system not functioningproperly (Chapter 6).2 Faulty spark plug wires or coil(s) (Chap-ter 5).3 Problem with the fuel injection system(Chapter 4).4 Vacuum leak at fuel injector(s), intakemanifold or vacuum hoses (Chapters 2and 4).5 Burned valves or incorrect valve timing(Chapter 2).

1 Idle speed too high (Chapter 1).2 Excessive engine operating temperature(Chapter 3).3 Excessive carbon deposits on valvesand pistons (see Chapter 2).

Engine electrical system

19 Alternator light fails to come onwhen key is turned on

1 Warning light bulb defective (Chap-ter 12).2 Fault in the printed circuit, dash wiringor bulb holder (Chapter 12).

20 Alternator light fails to go out

1 Faulty alternator or charging circuit(Chapter 5).2 Alternator drivebelt defective or out ofadjustment (Chapter 1).3 Alternator voltage regulator fault (Chap-ter 5).

21 Battery will not hold a charge

1 Alternator drivebelt defective or notadjusted properly (slipping) (Chapter 1).2 Battery electrolyte level low (not appli-cable on maintenance-free batteries) (Chap-ter 1).3 Battery terminals loose or corroded(Chapters 1 and 5).

23 Excessive fuel consumption

1 Dirty or clogged air filter element (Chap-ter 1).2 Emissions system not functioning prop-erly (Chapter 6).3 Fuel injection system not functioningproperly (Chapter 4).4 Low tire pressure or incorrect tire size(Chapter 1).5 Dragging brakes (Chapter 9).

24 Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor

1 Leaking fuel feed or return line (Chap-ters 1 and 4).2 Fuel tank overfilled.3 Evaporative canister filter clogged(Chapters 1 and 6).4 Problem with fuel injection system(Chapter 4).

Cooling system

25 Overheating

1 Insufficient coolant in system (Chap-ter 1).2 Water pump defective (Chapter 3).3 Radiator core blocked or grille restricted(Chapter 3).4 Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3).5 Electric cooling fan inoperative orblades broken (Chapter 3).

0-22 Troubleshooting

6 Radiator cap not maintaining properpressure (Chapter 3).

26 Overcooling

1 Faulty thermostat (Chapter 3).2 Inaccurate temperature gauge sendingunit (Chapter 3).

27 External coolant leakage

1 Deteriorated/damaged hoses; looseclamps (Chapters 1 and 3).2 Water pump defective (Chapter 3).3 Leakage from radiator core or coolantreservoir (Chapter 3).4 Engine drain or water jacket core plugsleaking (Chapter 2).

28 Internal coolant leakage

1 Leaking cylinder head gasket (Chap-ter 2).2 Cracked cylinder bore or cylinder head(Chapter 2).

29 Coolant loss

1 Too much coolant in system (Chapter 1).2 Coolant boiling away because of over-heating (Chapter 3).3 Internal or extemal leakage (Chapter 3).4 Faulty pressure cap (Chapter 3).

30 Poor coolant circulation

1 Inoperative water pump (Chapter 3).2 Restriction in cooling system (Chap-ters 1 and 3).3 Thermostat sticking (Chapter 3).

Clutch

31 Pedal travels to floor - no pressureor very little resistance

1 Broken or disconnected clutch cable(Chapter 8).2 Broken release bearing or fork (Chap-ter 8).

32 Unable to select gears

1 Faulty transaxle (Chapter 7).2 Faulty clutch disc or pressure plate(Chapter 8).3 Faulty release lever or release bearing(Chapter 8).4 Faulty shift lever assembly or rods(Chapter 8).

33 Clutch slips (engine speedincreases with no increase invehicle speed)

1 Clutch plate worn (Chapter 8).2 Clutch plate is oil soaked by leaking rearmain seal (Chapter 8).3 Clutch plate not seated (Chapter 8).4 Warped pressure plate or flywheel(Chapter 8).5 Weak clutch diaphragm springs (Chap-ter 8).6 Clutch plate overheated. Allow to cool.7 Faulty clutch self-adjusting mechanism(Chapter 8).

34 Grabbing (chattering) as clutch isengaged

38 High pedal effort

1 Binding clutch cable (Chapter 8).2 Pressure plate faulty (Chapter 8).

Manual transaxle

39 Knocking noise at low speeds

1 Worn driveaxle constant velocity (CV)joints (Chapter 8).2 Worn side gear shaft counterbore in dif-ferential case (Chapter 7A).*

40 Noise most pronounced whenturning

1 Differential gear noise (Chapter 7A).*

41 Clunk on acceleration ordeceleration

1 Loose engine or transaxle mounts(Chapters 2 and 7A).2 Worn differential pinion shaft in case.*3 Worn side gear shaft counterbore in dif-ferential case (Chapter 7A).*4 Worn or damaged driveaxle inboard CVjoints (Chapter 8).

42 Clicking noise in turns

(Chapter 7A).*2 Damaged or worn synchronizers (Chap-ter 7A).*3 Bent reverse fork (Chapter 7A).*4 Damaged fourth speed gear or outputgear (Chapter 7A).*5 Worn or damaged reverse idler gear oridler bushing (Chapter 7A).*

46 Noisy in all gears

1 Insufficient lubricant (Chapters 1 and 7A).2 Damaged or worn bearings (Chap -ter 7A).*3 Worn or damaged input gear shaftand/or output gear shaft (Chapter 7A).*

1 Oil on clutch plate lining, burned orglazed facings (Chapter 8).2 Worn or loose engine or transaxlemounts (Chapters 2 and 7).3 Worn splines on clutch plate hub (Chap-ter 8).4 Warped pressure plate (Chapter 8).5 Burned or smeared resin on pressureplate (Chapter 8).

1 Worn or damaged outboard CV joint(Chapter 8).

43 Vibration

1 Rough wheel bearing (Chapters 1and 10).2 Damaged driveaxle (Chapter 8).

35 Transaxle rattling (clicking) 3 Out of round tires (Chapter 1).4 Tire out of balance (Chapters 1 and 10).

1 Release fork loose (Chapter 8).5 Worn CV joint (Chapter 8).

2 Low engine idle speed (Chapter 1).

44 Noisy in Neutral with engine36 Noise in clutch area running

1 Faulty throw-out bearing (Chapter 8). 1 Damaged input gear bearing (Chap-ter 7A).*2 Damaged clutch release bearing (Chap-

37 Clutch pedal stays on floor ter 8).

1 Broken release bearing or fork (Chap -45 Noisy in one particular gearter 8).

2 Broken or disconnected clutch cable(Chapter 8). 1 Damaged or worn constant mesh gears

47 Slips out of gear

1 Worn or improperly adjusted linkage(Chapter 7A).2 Transaxle loose on engine (Chapter 7A).3 Shift linkage does not work freely, binds(Chapter 7A).4 Input gear bearing retainer broken orloose (Chapter 7A).*5 Dirt between clutch cover and enginehousing (Chapter 7A).6 Worn shift fork (Chapter 7A).*

48 Leaks lubricant

1 Driveshaft seals worn (Chapter 7A).2 Excessive amount of lubricant intransaxle (Chapters 1 and 7A).3 Loose or broken input gear shaft bear-ing retainer (Chapter 7A).*4 Input gear bearing retainer 0-ring and/orli p seal damaged (Chapter 7A).*5 Vehicle speed sensor 0-ring leaking(Chapter 7A).

49 Hard to shift

Troubleshooting 0-23

b)c)

Dipstick tube (Chapters 1 and 7).Transaxle oil cooler lines (Chapter 7).

Driveaxles

d) Speed sensor (Chapter 7).e) Driveaxle oil seals (Chapter 7). 56 Clicking noise in turns

1 Worn or damaged outboard CV joint(Chapter 8).51 Transaxle fluid brown or has a

burned smell

57 Shudder or vibration during1 Transaxle fluid overheated - change accelerationfluid and filter (Chapter 1).

1 Excessive toe-in (Chapter 10).2 Incorrect spring heights (Chapter 10).52 General shift mechanism

problems3 Worn or damaged inboard or outboardCV joints (Chapter 8).4 Sticking inboard CV joint assembly

1 Chapter 7, Part B, deals with checking (Chapter 8).and adjusting the shift linkage on automatictransaxles. Common problems which may beattributed to poorly adjusted linkage are:

a) Engine starting in gears other than Parkor Neutral.

b) Indicator on shifter pointing to a gearother than the one actually being used.

c) Vehicle moves when in Park.2 Refer to Chapter 7B for the shift linkageadjustment procedure.

58 Vibration at highway speeds

1 Out of balance front wheels and/or tires(Chapters 1 and 10).2 Out of round front tires (Chapters 1and 10).3 Worn CV joint(s) (Chapter 8).

1 Shift linkage loose or worn (Chapter 7A).2 Crossover cable out of adjustment.*Although the corrective action necessary toremedy the symptoms described is beyondthe scope of this manual, the above informa-tion should be helpful in isolating the cause ofthe condition so that the owner can commu-nicate clearly with a professional mechanic.

Automatic transaxleNote: Due to the complexity of the automatictransaxle, it is difficult for the home mechanicto properly diagnose and service this compo-nent. For problems other than the following,the vehicle should be taken to a dealer ser-vice department or other qualified transmis-sion shop.

50 Fluid leakage

1 Automatic transaxle fluid is a deep redcolor. Fluid leaks should not be confusedwith engine oil, which can easily be blownonto the transaxle by air flow.2 To pinpoint a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and grime from the transaxle housingwith degreasing agents and/or steam clean-ing. Then drive the vehicle at low speeds soair flow will not blow the leak far from itssource. Raise the vehicle and determinewhere the leak is coming from. Commonareas of leakage are:

a) Pan (Chapters 1 and 7)

53 Transaxle will not downshift withaccelerator pedal pressed to thefloor

1 The transaxle is electronically con-trolled. This type of problem - which iscaused by a malfunction in the TransmissionControl Module (TCM), a sensor or solenoid,or the circuit itself - is beyond the scope ofthis manual. Have the problem diagnosed bya dealer service department or other qualifiedautomatic transmission shop.

malfunctioning (Chapter 7B).

55 Transaxle slips, shifts roughly, isnoisy or has no drive in forwardor reverse gears

1 There are many probable causes for theabove problems, but the home mechanicshould be concerned with only one possibility- fluid level. Before taking the vehicle to arepair shop, check the level and condition ofthe fluid and/or filter as described in Chap-ter 1. Correct the fluid level as necessary orchange the fluid and filter if needed. If theproblem persists, have a professional diag-nose the cause.

BrakesNote: Before assuming that a brake problemexists, make sure that:

a) The tires are in good condition andproperly inflated (Chapter 1).

b) The front end alignment is correct(Chapter 10).

c) The vehicle is not loaded with weight inan unequal manner.

Vehicle pulls to one side duringbraking

Incorrect tire pressures (Chapter 1).Front end out of alignment (have the

front end aligned).3 Front tire sizes or tread types notmatched to one another.4 Restricted brake lines or hoses (Chap-ter 9).5 Malfunctioning/leaking brake cylinder orcaliper assembly (Chapter 9).6 Loose suspension parts (Chapter 10).7 Loose calipers (Chapter 9).8 Excessive wear of brake shoe or padmaterial or disc/drum on one side.

60 Noise (high-pitched squeal whenthe brakes are applied)

1 Front disc brake pads worn out. Thenoise comes from the wear sensor rubbing

5954 Engine will start in gears other

than Park or Neutral1

1 Neutral start switch out of adjustment or 2

0-24 Troubleshooting

against the disc (does not apply to all vehi-cles). Replace pads with new ones immedi-ately (Chapter 9).

61 Brake roughness or chatter(pedal pulsates)

1 Excessive lateral runout (Chapter 9).2 Uneven pad wear (Chapter 9).3 Defective disc (Chapter 9).4 If the vehicle is equipped with an anti-lock brake system (ABS), brake pedal pulsa-tion and associated noises are normal whensevere braking is required.

62 Excessive brake pedal effortrequired to stop vehicle

1 Malfunctioning power brake booster(Chapter 9).2 Partial system failure (Chapter 9).3 Excessively worn pads or shoes (Chap-ter 9).4 Piston in caliper or wheel cylinder stuckor sluggish (Chapter 9).5 Brake pads or shoes contaminated withoil or grease (Chapter 9).6 Brake disc grooved and/or glazed(Chapter 1).7 New pads or shoes installed and not yetseated. It will take a while for the new mate-rial to seat against the disc or drum.

63 Excessive brake pedal travel

1 Partial brake system failure (Chapter 9).2 Insufficient fluid in master cylinder(Chapters 1 and 9).3 Air trapped in system (Chapters 1 and 9).

66 Brake pedal feels spongy whendepressed

1 Air in hydraulic lines (Chapter 9).2 Master cylinder mounting bolts loose(Chapter 9).3 Master cylinder defective (Chapter 9).

67 Brake pedal travels to the floorwith little resistance

1 Little or no fluid in the master cylinderreservoir caused by leaking caliper piston(s)(Chapter 9).2 Loose, damaged or disconnected brakeli nes (Chapter 9).

68 Parking brake does not hold

1 Parking brake cables improperlyadjusted (Chapters 1 and 9).

Suspension and steering systemsNote: Before attempting to diagnose suspen-sion and steering system problems, performthe following preliminary checks:

a) Tires for wrong pressure and unevenwear.

b) Steering universal joints from the col-umn to the rack and pinion for looseconnectors or wear.

c) Front and rear suspension and the rackand pinion assembly for loose or dam-aged parts.

d) Out-of-round or out-of-balance tires,bent rims and loose and/or rough wheelbearings.

71 Wheel makes a thumping noise

1 Blister or bump on tire (Chapter 10).2 Faulty shock absorber(s) (Chapter 10).

72 Shimmy, shake or vibration

1 Tire or wheel out-of-balance or out-of-round (Chapter 10).2 Loose or worn wheel bearings (Chap-ters 1, 8 and 10).3 Worn tie-rod ends (Chapter 10).4 Worn lower balljoints (Chapters 1and 10).5 Excessive wheel runout (Chapter 10).6 Blister or bump on tire (Chapter 10).

73 Hard steering

1 Lack of lubrication at balljoints, tie-rodends and rack and pinion assembly ,(Chap-ter 10).2 Low power steering fluid level (Chap-ter 1).3 Faulty power steering pump (Chap-ter 10).4 Front wheel alignment out-of-specifica-tions (Chapter 10).5 Low tire pressure(s) (Chapters 1 and 10).

74 Poor returnability of steering tocenter

1 Lack of lubrication at balljoints and tie-rod ends (Chapter 10).2 Binding in balljoints (Chapter 10).3 Binding in steering column (Chapter 10).4 Lack of lubricant in steering gearassembly (Chapter 10).5 Front wheel alignment out-of-specifica-tions (Chapter 10).

64 Dragging brakes

1 Incorrect adjustment of brake lightswitch (Chapter 9).2 Master cylinder pistons not returningcorrectly (Chapter 9).3 Restricted brakes lines or hoses (Chap-ters 1 and 9).4 Incorrect parking brake adjustment(Chapter 9).

65 Grabbing or uneven brakingaction

1 Malfunction of proportioning valve(Chapter 9).2 Malfunction of power brake booster unit(Chapter 9).3 Binding brake pedal mechanism (Chap-ter 9).

69 Vehicle pulls to one side75 Abnormal noise at the front end

1 Mismatched or uneven tires (Chap-ter 10).2 Broken or sagging coil springs (Chap-ter 10).3 Wheel alignment out-of-specification(Chapter 10).4 Front brake dragging (Chapter 9). 4 Loose stabilizer bar (Chapter 10).

5 Loose wheel nuts (Chapters 1 and 10).6 Loose suspension bolts (Chapter 10)

70 Abnormal or excessive tire wear

1 Wheel alignment out-of-specification 76 Wander or poor steering stability(Chapter 10).2 Sagging or broken coil springs (Chap- 1 Mismatched or unevenly worn tirester 10). (Chapter 10).3 Tire out-of-balance (Chapter 10). 2 Lack of lubrication at balljoints and tie-4 Worn shock absorber (Chapter 10). rod ends (Chapters 1 and 10).5 Overloaded vehicle. 3 Bad shock absorber(s) (Chapter 10).6 Tires not rotated regularly. 4 Loose stabilizer bar (Chapter 10).

1 Lack of lubrication at balljoints and tie-rod ends (Chapters 1 and 10).2 Damaged strut mounting (Chapter 10).3 Worn control arm bushings or tie-rodends (Chapter 10).

Troubleshooting 0-25

5 Broken or sagging coil springs (Chap-ter 10).6 Wheels out of alignment (Chapter 10).

77 Erratic steering when braking

1 Wheel bearings worn (Chapter 10).2 Broken or sagging coil springs (Chap-ter 10).3 Leaking wheel cylinder or caliper (Chap-ter 10).4 Warped rotors or drums (Chapter 10).

3 Incorrect, broken or sagging coil springs 2 Front end alignment incorrect (toe-out).(Chapter 10). Have professionally aligned.

3 Loose or damaged steering compo-nents (Chapter 10).

80 Cupped tires

1 Front wheel or rear wheel alignment out- 83 Tire tread worn in one placeof-specifications (Chapter 10).2 Worn shock absorbers (Chapter 10).3 Wheel bearings worn (Chapter 10).4 Excessive tire or wheel runout (Chap-ter 10).5 Worn balljoints (Chapter 10).

1 Tires out-of-balance.2 Damaged or buckled wheel. Inspect andreplace if necessary.3 Defective tire (Chapter 1).

78 Excessive pitching and/or rollingaround corners or during braking

1 Loose stabilizer bar (Chapter 10).2 • Worn shock absorbers or mountings(Chapter 10).3 Broken or sagging coil springs (Chap-ter 10).4 Overloaded vehicle.

79 Suspension bottoms

81 Excessive tire wear on outsideedge

1 Inflation pressures incorrect (Chapter 1).2 Excessive speed during turns.3 Front end alignment incorrect (excessivetoe-in). Have professionally aligned.4 Suspension arm bent or twisted (Chap-ter 10).

82 Excessive tire wear on insideedge

84 Excessive play or looseness insteering system

1 Wheel bearing(s) worn (Chapter 10).2 Tie-rod end loose (Chapter 10).3 Steering gear loose (Chapter 10).4 Worn or loose steering intermediateshaft (Chapter 10).

85 Rattling or clicking noise insteering gear

1 Overloaded vehicle.2 Worn shock absorbers (Chapter 10).

1 Steering gear loose (Chapter 10).1 Inflation pressures incorrect (Chapter 1). 2 Steering gear defective.

0-26 Troubleshooting

Notes

1-1

Chapter 1Tune-up and routine maintenanceContents

Section SectionAir filter replacement ...................................................................... 22 Introduction.................................................................................... 2Automatic transaxle fluid and filter change .................................... 23 Maintenance schedule ................................................................... 1Automatic transaxle fluid level check............................................. 6 Manual transaxle lubricant change ................................................ 24Battery check, maintenance and charging .................................... 9 Manual transaxle lubricant level check .......................................... 16Brake system check....................................................................... 18 Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve checkChassis lubrication......................................................................... 21 and replacement....................................................................... 28Cooling system check .................................................................... 10 Power steering fluid level check .................................................... 7Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and refilling) ............. 25 Spark plug check and replacement ............................................... 27Driveaxle boot check ..................................................................... 17 Spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor - checkDrivebelt check, adjustment and replacement .............................. 20 and replacement....................................................................... 29Engine oil and filter change............................................................ 8 Steering and suspension check..................................................... 14Evaporative emissions control system check................................ 26 Tire and tire pressure checks ......................................................... 5Exhaust system check ................................................................... 15 Tire rotation.................................................................................... 13Fluid level checks........................................................................... 4 Tune-up general information .......................................................... 3Fuel filter replacement .................................................................... 30 Underhood hose check and replacement ...................................... 11Fuel system hoses and connections check................................... 19 Wiper blade inspection and replacement ...................................... 12

Specifications

Recommended lubricants and fluidsEngine oil

Type............................................................................................................API Certified, SG, SG/CD, SH, or SH/CD multi-gradeand fuel efficient oil

Viscosity..................................................................................................... See accompanying chartManual transaxle lubricant ...............................................................................Mopar manual transaxle fluid type MS 9417 or equivalentAutomatic transaxle fluid ..................................................................................Mopar automatic transaxle fluid ATF type 7176 or equivalent

Engine oil viscosity chart - Forbest fuel economy and cold

starting, select the lowest SAEviscosity grade for the

expected temperature range

HOTWEATHER

LOOK FORONE OF

THESE LABELSME 5W-30

COLDWEATHER 1-a3 HAYNES

1-2 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Recommended lubricants and fluidsPower steering fluid .................................................................................Brake fluid................................................................................................Engine coolant .........................................................................................Parking brake mechanism grease ...........................................................Chassis lubrication grease......................................................................Hood, door and trunk hinge lubricant .....................................................Hood latch, door hinge and check spring grease ...................................Key lock cylinder lubricant ......................................................................Door latch striker lubricant ......................................................................

Capacities*Engine oil (including filter)

V6 and 2.0L four-cylinder engines.....................................................2.4L four-cylinder engine...................................................................

Fuel tank..................................................................................................Automatic transaxle

Dry fill (including torque converter)....................................................Drain and refill ....................................................................................

Manual transaxle .....................................................................................Cooling system

2.0L four-cylinder engine...................................................................2.4L four-cylinder engine....................................................................V6 engine...........................................................................................

All capacities approximate. Add as necessary to bring to appropriate level.

BrakesDisc brake pad wear limit ........................................................................Drum brake shoe wear limit .............................................. :.....................

Ignition systemSpark plug type

2.0L four-cylinder engine ...................................................................2.4L four-cylinder engine...................................................................V6 engine...........................................................................................

Spark plug gap2.0L four-cylinder engine ...................................................................2.4L four-cylinder engine...................................................................V6.......................................................................................................

Spark plug wire resistanceFour-cylinder engines

Wire numbers 1 and 4 ..................................................................Wire numbers 2 and 3...................................................................

V6 engineMinimum.......................................................................................Maximum......................................................................................

Firing orderFour-cylinder engines .........................................................................V6 engine...........................................................................................

Mopar power steering fluid or equivalentDOT 3 brake fluid50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol-based antifreeze and waterWhite lithium-based grease NLGI no. 2NLGI no. 2 LB greaseEngine oilNLGI no. 2 multi-purpose greaseGraphite sprayMopar Door Ease no. 3744859 or equivalent .

4.5 quarts5.0 quarts16 gallons

9.1 quarts4.0 quarts2.2 quarts

8.5 quarts9.0 quarts10.5 quarts

1/8 inch1/16 inch

Champion RCY9C or equivalentChampion RC12YC5 or equivalentChampion RC10PYP4 or equivalent

0.033 to 0.038 inch0.048 to 0.053 inch0.038 to 0.043 inch

3,500 to 4,900 ohms2,950 to 4,100 ohms

250 ohms per inch (3,000 ohms per foot)560 ohms per inch (6,700 ohms per foot)

1-3-4-21-2-3-4-5-6

0000125015-1-SPECS. HAYNES'

FRONTOF

VEHICLE

1, 4

V6 engine cylindernumbering anddistributor cap

terminal locations

Four-cylinder engine cylinder numbering and FRONTFIRING ORDER

1-2-3-4-5-6coil terminal locations

01OF

VEHICLE

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-3

Torque specificationsAutomatic transaxle oil pan bolts ............................................................Engine oil pan drain plug .........................................................................Manual transaxle drain plug ....................................................................Spark plugs..............................................................................................Wheel lug nuts.........................................................................................

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)165 in-lbs25222080 to 110

1

Typical engine compartment layout (V6 engine shown)

1 Power steering fluid reservoir 8 Upper radiator hose2 Brake fluid reservoir 9 Engine coolant pressure/filler cap3 Transmission fluid dipstick 10 Spark plug boot4 Battery negative remote terminal 11 Engine oil filler cap5 Air filter housing 12 Engine oil dipstick6 Battery positive remote terminal 13 Windshield washer reservoir7 Power Distribution Center (PDC) - fuses and relays 14 Engine coolant reservoir

1-4 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Typical enginecompartment

undersidecomponents (V6engine shown)

1 Air conditioningcompressor

2 Engine oil drainplug

3 Engine oil filter4 Exhaust

crossover pipe5 Starter motor6 Automatic

transaxle fluid pan7 Driveaxle inner

CV joint boot8 Front suspension

crossmember9 Battery location

(inside fenderwell)10 Driveaxle outer

CV joint boot11 Front brake

caliper12 Front stabilizer

bar13 Catalytic

converter14 Shock absorber

lower mount15 Front suspension

lower control arm

Typical rearunderside

components

1 Rear suspensionupper control arm

2 Rear stabilizer bar3 Lateral links4 Fuel tank drain

plug5 Fuel tank

retaining straps6 Rear suspension

crossmember7 Muffler8 Coil/shock

absorberassembly

9 Trailing arm

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-5

1 Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, andPlymouth Breeze maintenance schedule

The following maintenance intervals are based on the assumptionthat the vehicle owner will be doing the maintenance or service work,as opposed to having a dealer service department do the work.Although the time/mileage intervals are loosely based on factory rec-ommendations, most have been shortened to ensure, for example, thatsuch items as lubricants and fluids are checked/changed at intervalsthat promote maximum engine/driveline service life. Also, subject tothe preference of the individual owner interested in keeping his or hervehicle in peak condition at all times, and with the vehicle's ultimateresale in mind, many of the maintenance procedures may be per-formed more often than recommended in the following schedule. Weencourage such owner initiative.

When the vehicle is new it should be serviced initially by a factoryauthorized dealer service department to protect the factory warranty.In many cases the initial maintenance check is done at no cost to theowner (check with your dealer service department for more informa-tion).

Every 250 miles or weekly, whichever comes first

Check the engine oil level; add oil as necessary (see Section 4)Check the engine coolant level; add coolant as necessary

(see Section 4)Check the windshield washer fluid level (see Section 4)Check the brake fluid level (see Section 4)Check the tires and tire pressures (see Section 5)Check the automatic transaxle fluid level (see Section 6)Check the power steering fluid level (see Section 7)Check the operation of all lightsCheck the horn operation

Every 7500 miles or 6 months,whichever comes first

Change the engine oil and filter (see Section 8)*Check and clean the battery and terminals (see Section 9)Check the manual transaxle fluid level (see Section 16)Check the cooling system hoses and connections for leaks

and damage (see Section 10)Check the condition of all vacuum hoses and connections

(see Section 11)Check the wiper blade condition (see Section 12)Rotate the tires (see Section 13)Check for free play in the steering linkage and ball joints

(see Section 14)Check the CV joints and front suspension components

(see Section 14)Check the driveaxle boots (see Section 17)Check the exhaust pipes and hangers (see Section 15)Inspect brake hoses (see Section 11)

Every 15,000 miles or 12 months,whichever comes first

All items listed above, plus:Check the brake system (see Section 18)

Check the fuel system hoses and connections for leaks anddamage (see Section 19)

Check the drivebelts and adjust if necessary (see Section 20)

Every 30,000 miles or 24 months,whichever comes first

All items listed above, plus:Lubricate the front and rear suspension and steering ball joints

(see Section 21)*Replace the air filter element (see Section 22)*Change the automatic transaxle fluid and filter

(see Section 23)*Change the manual transaxle lubricant (see Section 24)*Check the fuel evaporative emission system hoses

(see Section 26)Replace the spark plugs (four-cylinder engines)

(see Section 27)Check the spark plug wires (see Section 29)Drain and replace the engine coolant (see Section 25)

Every 60,000 miles or 48 months,whichever comes first

All items listed above, plus:Check and replace, if necessary, the PCV valve

(see Section 28)*Replace drivebelts (see Section 20)Replace spark plug wires (four-cylinder engines)

(see Section 29)

Every 100,000 miles or 84 months,whichever comes first

Replace the spark plugs (V6 engine) (see Section 27)*Replace the spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor

(V6 engine) (see Section 29)*Replace the timing belt (see Chapter 2)

*This item is affected by "severe" operating conditions asdescribed below. If the vehicle in question is operated under"severe" conditions, perform all maintenance procedures markedwith an asterisk (*) at the intervals specified by the mileageheadings below.

Consider the conditions "severe" if most driving is done .. .In dusty areasTowing a trailerIdling for extended periods and/or low-speed operationWhen outside temperatures remain below freezing and most

trips are less than four milesIn heavy city traffic where outside temperatures regularly reach

90-degrees F or higher

1

1-6 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Maintenance schedule (continued)

Every 3000 miles

Change the engine oil and filter (see Section 8)

Every 15,000 miles

Check and replace, if necessary, the air filter element (seeSection 22)

Change the automatic transaxle fluid and filter (see Section 23)Change the manual transaxle lubricant (see Section 24)Lubricate the front and rear suspension and steering ball joints

(see Section 21)

Every 30,000 miles

Check and replace, if necessary, the PCV valve (seeSection 28)

Every 75,000 miles

Replace the spark plugs (V6 engine) (see Section 27)Replace the spark plug wires (V6 engine) (see Section 29)

2 Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help thehome mechanic maintain the Chrysler Cirrus,Dodge Stratus and Plymouth Breeze modelswith the goals of maximum performance,economy, safety and reliability in mind.

Included is a master maintenanceschedule, followed by procedures dealingspecifically with each item on the schedule.Visual checks, adjustments, componentreplacement and other helpful items areincluded. Refer to the accompanying illustra-tions of the engine compartment and theunderside of the vehicle for the locations ofvarious components.

Adhering to the mileage/time mainte-nance schedule and following the step-by-step procedures, which is simply a preventivemaintenance program, will result in maximumreliability and vehicle service life. Keep inmind that it's a comprehensive program -maintaining some items but not others at thespecified intervals will not produce the sameresults.

As you service the vehicle, you'll dis-cover that many of the procedures can - andshould - be grouped together because of thenature of the particular procedure you're per-forming or because of the close proximity oftwo otherwise unrelated components to oneanother.

For example, if the vehicle is raised, youshould inspect the exhaust, suspension,steering and fuel systems while you're underthe vehicle. When you're rotating the tires, itmakes good sense to check the brakes,since the wheels are already removed.Finally, let's suppose you have to borrow orrent a torque wrench. Even if you only need itto tighten the spark plugs, you might as wellcheck the torque of as many critical fastenersas time allows.

The first step in this maintenance pro-gram is to prepare yourself before the actualwork begins. Read through all the proceduresyou're planning to do, then gather up all theparts and tools needed. If it looks like youmight run into problems during a particular

job, seek advice from a mechanic or an expe-rienced do-it-yourselfer.

3 Tune-up general information

The term "tune-up" is used in this man-ual to represent a combination of individualoperations rather than one specific proce-dure.

If, from the time the vehicle is new, theroutine maintenance schedule is followedclosely and frequent checks are made of fluidlevels and high wear items, as suggestedthroughout this manual, the engine will bekept in relatively good running condition andthe need for additional work will be mini-mized.

More likely than not, however, there willbe times when the engine is running poorlydue to lack of regular maintenance. This iseven more likely if a used vehicle, which has-n't received regular and frequent mainte-nance checks, is purchased. In such cases,an engine tune-up will be needed outside ofthe regular routine maintenance intervals.

The first step in any tune-up or diagnos-tic procedure to help correct a poor runningengine is a cylinder compression check. Acompression check (see Chapter 2, Part C)will help determine the condition of internalengine components and should be used as aguide for tune-up and repair procedures. Forinstance, if a compression check indicatesserious internal engine wear, a conventionaltune-up will not improve the performance ofthe engine and would be a waste of time andmoney. Because of its importance, the com-pression check should be done by someonewith the right equipment and the knowledgeto use it properly.

The following procedures are thosemost often needed to bring a generally poorrunning engine back into a proper state oftune:

Minor tune-upCheck all engine related fluids

(see Section 4)

Clean, inspect and test the battery(see Section 9)

Replace the spark plugs (seeSection 27)

Inspect the spark plug wires (seeSection 29)

Check and adjust the drivebelts (seeSection 20)

Check the air filter (see Section 22)Check the PCV valve (see Section 28)Check all underhood hoses (see

Section 11)Service the cooling system (see

Section 25)

Major tune-upAll items listed under Minor tune-up plus .. .

Replace the air filter (see Section 22)Check the fuel system (see Section 19)Check the charging system (see

Chapter 5)

4 Fluid level checks (every 250miles or weekly)

Note: The following are fluid level checks tobe done on a 250 mile or weekly basis. Addi-tional fluid level checks can be found in spe-cific maintenance procedures which follow.Regardless of the intervals, develop the habitof checking under the vehicle periodically forevidence of fluid leaks.1 Fluids are an essential part of the lubri-cation, cooling, brake and window washersystems. Because the fluids graduallybecome depleted and/or contaminated dur-ing normal operation of the vehicle, they mustbe replenished periodically. See Recom-mended lubricants and fluids at the beginningof this Chapter before adding fluid to any ofthe following components. Note: The vehiclemust be on level ground when fluid levels arechecked.

Engine oilRefer to illustrations 4.2a, 4.2b, 4.4 and 4.52 The engine oil level is checked with a

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-7

4.2b Engine oil dipstick location -V6 engine

4.5 Turn the oil filler capcounterclockwise to remove it(four-cylinder engine shown)

Engine coolantRefer to illustrations 4.9 and 4.10Warning: Do not allow coolant (antifreeze) tocome in contact with your skin or painted sur-faces of the vehicle. Flush contaminatedareas immediately with plenty of water. Don'tstore new coolant or leave old coolant lyingaround where it's accessible to children orpets - they're attracted by its sweet smell.Ingestion of even a small amount of coolantcan be fatal! Wipe up garage floor and drippan spills immediately. Keep antifreeze con-tainers covered and repair cooling systemleaks as soon as they are noticed. Check withlocal authorities about the disposal of usedantifreeze. Many communities have collectioncenters which will see that antifreeze is dis-posed ofproperly.8 All vehicles covered by this manual areequipped with a pressurized coolant recoverysystem. A coolant reservoir (expansion tank)is attached to the engine compartment fire-wall on the right (passenger's) side is con-nected by a hose to the engine coolant sys-tem filler neck. As the engine warms up, thesystem pressure increases causing some

4.4 The oil level should be between thenotches on the dipstick - if it isn't, add

enough oil to bring the level up to or nearthe upper notch (do not overfill) 1

4.9 With the engine COLD, remove theengine coolant pressure cap - the coolant

level should be up to the pressure capseat inside the filler neck

coolant to escape through a valve in the radi-ator cap and travel through the hose and intothe coolant reservoir. As the engine cools, thecoolant in the reservoir is automaticallydrawn back into the cooling system via thevacuum created by the contracting coolant.This recovery type system maintains themaximum amount of coolant available at allti mes.9 Warning: Never remove the pressurecap on the filler neck to add coolant while theengine is warm! If the cap feels even slightlywarm, wrap a towel or rag around the capand open it very slowly. With the engine cold,remove the coolant system filler cap (seeillustration). The coolant level should be upto the pressure cap seat inside the filler neck.If it is low, add a mixture of high-qualityantifreeze/coolant and water in the ratiospecified on the antifreeze container or in thisChapter's Specification Section to bring it upto the correct level.10 The coolant level in the recovery tankshould be checked while the engine is at nor-mal operating temperature. Simply note thefluid level in the reservoir - it should be at or

4.2a The engine oil dipstick is located atthe front left (passenger's) side of theengine (four-cylinder engine shown)

dipstick which is located on the side of theengine facing the front of the vehicle (seeillustrations). The dipstick extends through atube and into the oil pan at the bottom of theengine.3 The oil level should be checked beforethe vehicle has been driven, or about 15 min-utes after the engine has been shut off. If theoil is checked immediately after driving thevehicle, some of the oil will remain in theupper engine components, resulting in aninaccurate reading on the dipstick.4 Pull the dipstick out of the tube andwipe all the oil off the end with a clean rag orpaper towel. Insert the clean dipstick all theway back into the tube, then pull it out again.Note the oil level at the end of the dipstick.Add oil as necessary to bring the oil level tothe second notch in the dipstick (see illus-tration).5 Oil is added to the engine after removinga cap located on the valve cover (see illus-tration). The cap will be marked "Engine oil".Use a funnel to reduce spills as the oil isadded.6 Don't allow the level to drop below thelower notch on the dipstick or engine dam-age may occur. On the other hand, don'toverfill the engine by adding too much oil - itmay result in oil aeration and loss of oil pres-sure and also could result in oil fouled sparkplugs, oil leaks or seal failures.7 Checking the oil level is an importantpreventive maintenance step. A consistentlylow oil level indicates oil leakage throughdamaged seals, defective gaskets or pastworn rings or valve guides. If the oil looksmilky in color or has water droplets in it, theblock or head may be cracked and leakingcoolant is entering the crankcase. The engineshould be checked immediately. The condi-tion of the oil should also be checked. Eachti me you check the oil level, slide your thumband index finger up the dipstick before wipingoff the oil. If you see small dirt or metal parti-cles clinging to the dipstick, the oil should bechanged (see Section 8).

1-8 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

4.17 The brake fluid level, indicated onthe translucent white plastic brake fluid

reservoir, should be kept at the FULLmark (arrow)

4.10 Engine coolant (1) and windshieldwasher (2) reservoirs

close to the FULL HOT mark when the engineis at normal operating temperature (see illus-tration).11 If only a small amount of coolant isrequired to bring the system up to the properlevel, ordinary tap water may be used. How-ever, to maintain the proper antifreeze/watermixture in the system, a blend of high-qualityantifreeze/coolant and water in the ratiospecified on the antifreeze container or in thisChapter's Specification Section should beadded.12 As the coolant level is checked, note thecondition of the coolant as well. It should berelatively clean and the color of newantifreeze. If it's brown or rust colored, thesystem should be drained, flushed andrefilled (see Section 25).13 If the coolant level drops consistently,there is a leak in the system. Check the radia-tor, hoses, filler cap, drain plugs and waterpump (see Section 25). If no leaks are noted,have the filler cap and coolant system pres-sure tested by your dealer service depart-ment or other qualified service station.

Windshield washer fluid14 The fluid for the windshield washer sys-tem is stored in a plastic reservoir. The reser-voir level should be maintained about oneinch below the filler cap. The reservoir isaccessible after opening the hood and islocated on the right (passenger's) side of theengine compartment next to the coolantrecovery tank (see illustration 4.10).15 In milder climates, plain water can beused in the reservoir, but it should be kept nomore than two-thirds full to allow for expan-sion if the water freezes. In colder climates,use windshield washer system antifreeze,available at any auto parts store, to lower thefreezing point of the fluid. Mix the antifreezewith water in accordance with the manufac-turer's directions on the container. Caution:DO NOT use cooling system antifreeze - it willdamage the vehicle's paint. To help preventicing in cold weather, warm the windshieldwith the defroster before using the washer.

Brake fluidRefer to illustration 4.1716 The brake fluid reservoir is located ontop of the brake master cylinder on thedriver's side of the engine compartment nearthe firewall.17 The brake fluid level should be main-tained at the FULL mark on the reservoir (seeillustration).18 If additional fluid is necessary to bringthe level up, use a rag to clean all dirt off thetop of the reservoir. If any foreign matterenters the reservoir when the cap is removed,blockage in the brake system lines can occur.Also, make sure all painted surfaces aroundthe master cylinder are covered, since brakefluid will ruin paint. Carefully pour new, cleanbrake fluid obtained from a sealed containerinto the master cylinder. Be careful not tospill the fluid on painted surfaces. Be sure thespecified fluid is used; mixing different typesof brake fluid can cause damage to the sys-tem. See Recommended lubricants and fluidsat the beginning of this Chapter or yourowner's manual.19 At this time the fluid and the mastercylinder should be inspected for contamina-tion. Normally the brake hydraulic systemwon't need periodic draining and refilling, butif rust deposits, dirt particles or waterdroplets are observed in the fluid, the systemshould be dismantled, cleaned and refilledwith fresh fluid. Over time brake fluid willabsorb moisture from the air. The moisture inthe fluid then produces rust in the systemand lowers the fluid boiling point increasingthe possibility of premature brake failure.Normal brake fluid is clear in color. If thebrake fluid is dark brown in color or is overthree years old, its a good idea to flush thesystem and refill it with new fluid.20 Reinstall the brake fluid reservoir cap.21 The brake fluid in the master cylinderwill drop slightly as the brake shoes and padsat each wheel wear down during normaloperation. If the master cylinder requires

5.2 Use a tire tread depth indicator tomonitor tire wear - they are available atauto parts stores or service stations and

are relatively inexpensive

repeated replenishing to maintain the correctlevel, there is a leak in the brake systemwhich should be corrected immediately.Check all brake lines and connections, alongwith the wheel cylinders and vacuum booster(see Section 18 and Chapter 9 for more infor-mation).22 If you discover that the reservoir isempty or nearly empty, the brake systemshould be thoroughly inspected, refilled andthen bled (see Chapter 9).

5 Tire and tire pressure checks(every 250 miles or weekly)

Refer to illustrations 5.2, 5.3, 5.4a, 5.4b and5.81 Periodic inspection of the tires mayspare you the inconvenience of beingstranded with a flat tire. It can also provideyou with vital information regarding possibleproblems in the steering and suspension sys-tems before major damage occurs.2 The original tires on this vehicle areequipped with 1/2-inch wide bands that willappear when tread depth reaches 1/16-inch,but they don't appear until the tires are wornout. Tread wear can be monitored with a sim-ple, inexpensive device known as a treaddepth indicator (see illustration).3 Note any abnormal tread wear (seeillustration). Tread pattern irregularities suchas cupping, flat spots and more wear on oneside than the other are indications of frontend alignment and/or balance problems. Ifany of these conditions are noted, take thevehicle to a tire shop or service station to cor-rect the problem.4 Look closely for cuts, punctures andembedded nails or tacks. Sometimes a tirewill hold air pressure for a short time or leakdown very slowly after a nail has embeddeditself in the tread. If a slow leak persists,check the valve stem core to make sure it'stight (see illustration). Examine the tread for

UNDERINFLATION

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-9

CUPPING

Cupping may be caused by:

• Underinflation and/or mechanicalirregularities such as out-of-balancecondition of wheel and/or tire,and bent or damaged wheel.Loose or worn steering tie-rodor steering idler arm.

*Loose, damaged or worn frontsuspension parts,

INCORRECT TOE-1NOR EXTREME CAMBER

OVERINFLATION FEATHERING DUETO MISALIGNMENT

5.3 This chart will help you determine the condition of the tires, the probable cause(s) ofabnormal wear and the corrective action necessary

5.4a If a tire loses air on a steady basis,check the valve core first to make sure it's

snug (special inexpensive wrenches arecommonly available at auto parts stores)

1

an object that may have embedded itself inthe tire or for a "plug" that may have begun toleak (radial tire punctures are repaired with aplug that's installed in a puncture). If a punc-ture is suspected, it can be easily verified byspraying a solution of soapy water onto thepuncture area (see illustration). The soapysolution will bubble if there's a leak. Unlessthe puncture is unusually large, a tire shop orservice station can usually repair the tire.5 Carefully inspect the inner sidewall ofeach tire for evidence of brake fluid leakage.If you see any, inspect the brakes immedi-ately.6 Correct air pressure adds miles to thelife span of the tires, improves mileage andenhances overall ride quality. Tire pressurecannot be accurately estimated by looking ata tire, especially if it's a radial. A tire pressuregauge is essential. Keep an accurate gaugein the vehicle. The pressure gauges attachedto the nozzles of air hoses at gas stations areoften inaccurate.7 Always check tire pressure when thetires are cold. Cold, in this case, means thevehicle has not been driven over a mile in thethree hours preceding a tire pressure check.A pressure rise of four to eight pounds is notuncommon once the tires are warm.

8 Unscrew the valve cap protruding fromthe wheel or hubcap and push the gaugefirmly onto the valve stem (see illustration).Compare the reading on the gauge to therecommended tire pressure shown on theplacard on the driver's side door pillar. Besure to reinstall the valve cap to keep dirt andmoisture out of the valve stem mechanism.Check all four tires and, if necessary, addenough air to bring them up to the recom-mended pressure.9 Don't forget to keep the spare tireinflated to the specified pressure (refer toyour owner's manual or the tire sidewall).Note that the pressure recommended for thecompact spare is higher than for the tires onthe vehicle.

Automatic transaxle - fluid levelcheck (every 250 miles or weekly)

Refer to illustration 6.41 The fluid inside the transaxle should beat normal operating temperature to get anaccurate reading on the dipstick. This is doneby driving the vehicle for several miles, mak-ing frequent starts and stops to allow the

5.4b If the valve core is tight, raise thecorner of the vehicle with the low tire and

spray a soapy water solution onto thetread as the tire is turned slowly - leaks

will cause small bubbles to appear

5.8 To extend the life of the tires, checkthe air pressure at least once a week with

an accurate gauge (don't forgetthe spare!)

1-10 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

6.4 Check the fluid with the transaxle at normal operatingtemperature - the level should be kept in the HOT range, between

the two upper holes (arrows)

7.2 The power steering reservoir is located on the right(passenger's) side rear of the engine compartment

(2.5L engine shown)

transaxle to shift through all gears.2 Park the vehicle on a level surface andapply the parking brake. With the engine run-ning, apply the brakes and place the gearselector lever momentarily in Reverse, thenDrive and repeat the sequence again endingwith the gear selector in the Park position.3 With the engine still running, locate thetransaxle fluid dipstick near the brake fluidreservoir. The dipstick has a "T" handle andis identified as "TRANS FLUID". Remove thedipstick and wipe the fluid from the end witha clean rag.4 Insert the dipstick back into thetransaxle until the cap seats completely.Remove the dipstick again and note the fluidlevel on the end. The level should be in thearea marked Hot (between the two upperholes in the dipstick) (see illustration). If thefluid isn't hot (temperature approximately100-degrees F), the level should be in thearea marked Warm (between the two lowerholes).5 If the fluid level is at or below the ADDmark on the dipstick, add just enough of thespecified fluid (see Recommended lubricantsand fluids at the beginning of this Chapter) toraise the level to within the marks indicatedfor the appropriate temperature. Fluid shouldbe slowly added into the dipstick tube, usinga funnel to prevent spills.6 DO NOT overfill the transaxle. Neverallow the fluid level to go above the upperhole on the dipstick - it could cause internaltransaxle damage. The best way to preventoverfilling is to add fluid a little at a time, driv-ing the vehicle and checking the levelbetween additions.7 Use only transaxle fluid specified by themanufacturer. This information can be foundin the Recommended lubricants and fluidsSection at the beginning of this Chapter or inyour owner's manual.8 The condition of the fluid should also bechecked along with the level. If it's a darkreddish-brown color, or if it smells burned, it Refer to illustrations 8.3, 8.8, 8.13 and 8.18should be changed. If you're in doubt about 1 Frequent oil changes are the mostthe condition of the fluid, purchase some new important preventive maintenance proce-fluid and compare the two for color and odor. dures that can be performed by the home

7.5 The power steering fluid dipstick onmost models is marked on both sides for

checking the fluid level (the arrow ispointing to the COLD level mark)

mechanic. When engine oil ages, it getsdiluted and contaminated, which ultimatelyleads to premature engine wear.2 Although some sources recommend oilfilter changes every other oil change, a newfilter should be installed every time the oil ischanged.3 Gather together all necessary tools andmaterials before beginning this procedure(see illustration). Note: To avoid roundingoff the corners of the drain plug, use a box-end type wrench or socket. In addition, youshould have plenty of clean rags and news-papers handy to mop up any spills.4 Raise the front of the vehicle and sup-port it securely on jackstands. Warning:Never work under a vehicle that is supportedonly by a jack!5 If this is your first oil change on the vehi-cle, familiarize yourself with the locations ofthe oil drain plug and the oil filter. Since theengine and exhaust components will bewarm during the actual work, it's a good ideato figure out any potential problems before-hand.6 Allow the engine to warm up to normaloperating temperature. If oil or tools areneeded, use the warm-up time to gather

7 Power steering fluid level check(every 250 miles or weekly)

Refer to illustrations 7.2 and 7.51 Unlike manual steering, the power steer-ing system relies on hydraulic fluid whichmay, over a period of time require replenish-ing.2 The fluid reservoir for the power steeringpump is located at the rear of the enginecompartment on the right (passenger's) side(see illustration).3 The power steering fluid level can bechecked with the engine either hot or cold.4 With the engine off, use a rag to cleanthe reservoir cap and the area around thecap. This will help prevent foreign materialfrom falling into the reservoir when the cap isremoved.5 Turn and pull out the reservoir cap,which has a dipstick attached to it. Wipe thefluid at the bottom of the dipstick with a cleanrag. Reinstall the cap to get a fluid level read-ing. Remove the cap again and note the fluidlevel. It should be at the appropriate mark onthe dipstick in relation to the engine tempera-ture (see illustration).6 If additional fluid is required, pour thespecified type fluid (see Recommended lubri-cants and fluids at the beginning of thisChapter or your owner's manual) directly intothe reservoir using a funnel to prevent spills.DO NOT use automatic transmission fluid!7 If the reservoir requires frequent toppingup, all power steering hoses, hose connec-tions, the power steering pump and thesteering gear should be carefully examinedfor leaks.

8 Engine oil and filter change(every 7500 miles or 6 months)

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

8.3 These tools are required whenchanging the engine oil and filter

Drain pan - It should be fairly shallow indepth, but wide to prevent spills andcapable of holding at least 5 quarts

2 Rubber gloves - When removing thedrain plug and filter, you will get oil onyour hands (the gloves will preventburns)

3 Breaker bar - Sometimes the oil drainplug is tight, and a long breaker bar isneeded to loosen it

4 Socket - To be used with the breakerbar or a ratchet (must be the correctsize to fit the drain plug - six-pointpreferred)

5 Filter wrench - This is a metal band-type wrench, which requires clearancearound the filter to be effective

6 Filter wrench - This type fits on thebottom of the filter and can be turnedwith a ratchet or breaker bar (differentsize wrenches are available for differenttypes of filters)

everything necessary for the job. The correcttype of oil to buy for your application can befound in the Recommended lubricants andfluids Section at the beginning of this Chapteror your owner's manual.7 Move all necessary tools, rags andnewspapers under the vehicle. Place a drainpan capable of holding at least 5 quartsunder the drain plug. Keep in mind that the oilwill initially flow from the engine with someforce, so position the pan accordingly.8 Being careful not to touch any of the hotexhaust components, use the breaker barand socket or box-end wrench to remove thedrain plug (see illustration). Depending onhow hot the oil is, you may want to weargloves while unscrewing the plug the finalfew turns.9 Allow the oil to drain into the pan. It maybe necessary to move the pan further underthe engine as the oil flow reduces to a trickle.10 After all the oil has completely drained,clean the plug thoroughly with a rag. Small

8.8 To avoid rounding off the corners, usethe correct size box-end wrench or a

socket to remove the engine oil drain plug

8.18 Lubricate the oil filter gasket withclean engine oil before installing the filter

on the engine

metal particles may cling to it and wouldimmediately contaminate the new oil.11 Clean the area around the drain plugopening and reinstall the plug. Tighten it tothe torque given in this Chapter's Specifica-tions.12 Next, carefully move the drain pan intoposition under the oil filter.13 Now use the filter wrench to loosen theoil filter in a counterclockwise direction (seeillustration).14 Sometimes the oil filter is on so tight itcannot be loosened, or it's positioned in anarea inaccessible with a conventional filterwrench. Other type of tools, which fit over theend of the filter and turned with a ratchet orbreaker bar, are available and may be bettersuited for removing the filter. If the filter isextremely tight, position the filter wrench nearthe threaded end of the filter, close to theengine.15 Completely unscrew the old filter. Becareful, it's full of oil. Empty the old oil insidethe filter into the drain pan. Note: To makeremoving a vertically installed filter a little lessmessy, a paper or plastic cup placed over the

8.13 Removing the oil filter(V6 engine shown)

filter will catch the oil that will drain as it isunscrewed.16 Compare the old filter with the new oneto make sure they're identical.17 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirtand sludge from the area where the oil filterseals on the engine. Check the old filter tomake sure the rubber gasket isn't stuck tothe engine mounting surface.18 Apply a light coat of clean engine oil tothe rubber gasket on the new oil filter (seeillustration).19 Install the new filter on the engine hand-tight plus 1/4 turn more. Do not overtighten.20 Remove all tools and materials fromunder the vehicle, being careful not to spillthe oil in the drain pan. Lower the vehicle.21 Working inside the engine compart-ment, locate and remove the oil filler capfrom the engine valve cover (see illustra-tion 4.5).22 Using a funnel to prevent spills, pour thespecified type and amount of new oil required(see Specification Section in the beginning ofthis Chapter) into the engine. Wait a few min-utes to allow the oil to drain down to the pan,then check the level on the dipstick (see Sec-tion 4 if necessary). If the oil level is at orabove the first notch on the dipstick, start theengine and allow the new oil to circulate.23 Run the engine for only about a minute,then shut it off. Immediately look under thevehicle and check for leaks at the oil pandrain plug and around the oil filter. If eitherone is leaking, tighten it with a bit more force.24 With the new oil circulated and the filternow completely full, wait about ten minutesfor the oil to drain back down into the panthen recheck the oil level on the dipstick. Ifnecessary, add enough oil to bring the levelto the second notch on the dipstick. DO NOToverfill!25 During the first few trips after an oilchange, make it a point to check for leaksand keep a close watch on the oil level.26 The old oil drained from the engine can-not be reused in its present state and shouldbe disposed of properly. Oil reclamation cen-ters, auto repair shops and gas stations will

1

1-12 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

9.6a Use a side terminal battery brush(available at most auto parts stores) to

clean up the terminal contact area

9.6b The side terminal battery brushincludes a special ring-type portion usedto clean the battery cable sealing recess

around the terminal9.1 Tools and materials required for

battery maintenance. Note: Items 4 through7 do not apply to "side" post batteries.

1 Face safety goggles - Whenremoving corrosion with a brush, theacidic particles can easily fly up intoyour eyes

2 Baking soda - A solution of bakingsoda and water can be used toneutralize corrosion

3 Petroleum jelly - A layer of this on thebattery posts will help prevent corrosion

4 Battery post/cable cleaner - This wirebrush cleaning tool will remove alltraces of corrosion from the batteryposts and cable clamps

5 Treated felt washers - Placing one ofthese on each post, directly under thecable clamps, will help preventcorrosion

6 Puller - Sometimes the cable clampsare very difficult to pull off the posts,even after the nut/bolt has beencompletely loosened. This tool pulls theclamp straight up and off the postwithout damage

7 Battery post/cable cleaner - Here isanother cleaning tool which is a slightlydifferent version ofNumber 4 above, butit does the same thing

8 Rubber gloves - Another safety item toconsider when servicing the battery;remember that's acid inside the battery!

normally accept used oil. After the oil hascooled, it should be drained into sealablecontainers (plastic bottles with screw-on topsare preferred) for transport to a disposal site.

9 Battery - check, maintenanceand charging (every 7,500 milesor 6 months)

Warning: Certain precautions must be fol-lowed when checking and servicing the bat-tery. Hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive,

is produced by the battery. Keep lightedtobacco, open flames, bare light bulbs orother possible sources of ignition away fromthe battery. Furthermore, the electrolyteinside the battery is sulfuric acid which ishighly corrosive and can burn your skin andcause severe injury to your eyes. Always weareye protection! It will also destroy clothingand ruin painted surfaces.

ServicingRefer to illustrations 9.1, 9.6a and 9.6b1 A routine preventive maintenance pro-gram for the battery in your vehicle is the onlyway to ensure quick and reliable starts. Butbefore performing any battery maintenance,make sure that you have the proper equip-ment necessary to work safely around thebattery (see illustration).2 Before servicing the battery, always turnthe engine and all accessories off and dis-connect the cable from the negative terminalof the battery.3 The battery on these vehicles is locatedinside the wheel well of the left front fender.4 Remove the battery from the vehicle(see Chapter 5).5 Inspect the external condition of thebattery. Check the battery case for cracks orother damage.6 Clean the battery terminals and cableconnections thoroughly with a wire brush or aterminal cleaner and a solution of warm waterand baking soda (see illustrations). Washthe terminals and the top of the battery casewith the same solution but make sure that thesolution doesn't get into the battery. Whencleaning the cables, terminals and batterytop, wear safety goggles and rubber glovesto prevent any solution from coming in con-tact with your eyes or hands. Wear oldclothes too - even diluted, sulfuric acidsplashed onto clothes will burn holes in them.Thoroughly wash all cleaned areas with plainwater.7 Inspect the battery carrier. If it's dirty orcovered with corrosion, clean it with thesame solution of warm water and baking

soda and rinse it with clean water.8 If the battery is a maintenance-type, ithas removable cell caps which allow you toadd water (use distilled water only) to the bat-tery when the electrolyte level gets low.9 If you are not sure what type of batteryyou have (some maintenance-types haverecessed cell caps that resemble mainte-nance-free batteries), one simple way to con-firm your type of battery is to look for a built-in hydrometer. Most maintenance-free bat-teries have built-in hydrometers that indicatethe state of charge by the color displayed inthe hydrometer window since measuring thespecific gravity of the electrolyte is not possi-ble. Also check for cut-outs near the cellcaps - if the caps can be removed, cut-outsare usually provided to assist with prying offthe caps.10 If your battery is a maintenance-type,remove the cell caps and check the level ofthe electrolyte. It should be up the split-ringinside the battery. If the level is low, add dis-tilled water (distilled water is mineral-free, tapwater contains minerals that will shorten thelife of your battery) to bring the electrolyte upto the proper level.11 Next, check the entire length of eachbattery cable for cracks, worn insulation andfrayed conductors. Replace the cable(s) ifnecessary.12 Install the battery (see Chapter 5).

ChargingWarning: The battery produces hydrogengas, which is highly explosive. Never create aspark, smoke or light a match around the bat-tery. Always charge the battery in a ventilatedarea.13 The battery on these vehicles is locatedinside the wheel well of the left front fender.14 Remove the battery from the vehicle(see Chapter 5).15 On maintenance-type batteries, removethe cell caps. Make sure the electrolyte levelis OK before beginning to charge the battery.Cover the holes with a clean cloth to prevent

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-13

Check for a soft area indicatingthe hose has deteriorated inside.

Overtightening the clamp on ahardened hose will damage thehose and cause a leak.

Check each hose for swelling andoil-soaked ends. Cracks and breakscan be located by squeezing the hose.

10.4a Hoses, like drivebelts, have a habitof failing at the worst possible time - toprevent the inconvenience of a blownradiator or heater hose, inspect them

carefully as shown here

spattering electrolyte.16 On batteries with the terminals locatedon the side, install bolts (with the appropriatethread size and pitch) in the terminals so thecharger can be attached.17 Connect the battery charger leads to thebattery posts (positive to positive, negative tonegative), then plug in the charger. Make sureit is set at 12 volts if it has a selector switch. Ifthe battery charger does not have a built-inti mer, its a good idea to use one in case youforget - you won't over charge the battery.18 If you're using a charger with a ratehigher than two amps, check the battery reg-ularly during charging to make sure it doesn'toverheat. If you're using a trickle charger, youcan safely let the battery charge overnightafter you've checked it regularly for the firstcouple of hours.19 If the battery has removable cell caps,

10.4b Squeeze the hoses to locate cracksor breaks that may cause leaks

measure the specific gravity with a hydrome-ter every hour during the last few hours of thecharging cycle. Hydrometers are availableinexpensively from auto parts stores - followthe instructions that come with the hydrome-ter. Consider the battery charged whenthere's no change in the specific gravity read-ing for two hours and the electrolyte in thecells is outgassing (bubbling) freely. The spe-cific gravity reading from each cell should bevery close to the others. If not, the batteryprobably has a bad cell(s).20 Most batteries with sealed tops havebuilt-in hydrometers on the top that indicatethe state of charge by the color displayed inthe hydrometer window. Normally, a bright-colored hydrometer indicates a full chargeand a dark hydrometer indicates the batterystill needs charging. Check the battery manu-facturer's instructions to be sure you knowwhat the colors mean. Note: It may be neces-sary to jiggle the battery to bring the test indi-cator fluid into view.21 If the battery has a sealed top and doesnot have a built-in hydrometer, you can hookup a voltmeter across the battery terminals tocheck the charge. A fully charged batteryshould read approximately 12.6 volts orhigher.22 Further information on the battery andjump starting can be found in Chapter 5 andat the front of this manual, respectively.

10 Cooling system - check (every7,500 miles or 6 months)

Refer to illustrations 10.4a and 10.4bWarning: The electric cooling fan(s) on thesemodels can activate at any time the ignitionswitch is in the ON position. Make sure theignition is OFF when working in the vicinity ofthe fan(s).1 Many major engine failures can beattributed to a faulty cooling system. If thevehicle is equipped with an automatictransaxle, a transmission fluid cooler is incor-porated inside the radiator side tank.

2 The cooling system should be checkedwith the engine cold. Do this before the vehi-cle is driven for the day or after it has beenshut off for three or four hours and the upperradiator hose feels cool to the touch.3 Remove the coolant system pressurecap (see illustration 4.9) and thoroughlyclean the cap with water. Also clean the fillerneck. All traces of corrosion and gum shouldbe removed.4 Carefully check the upper and lowerradiator hoses along with the smaller diame-ter heater hoses. Inspect the entire length ofeach hose, replacing any that are cracked,swollen or deteriorated (see illustration).Cracks may become more apparent when ahose is squeezed (see illustration).5 Also check that all hose connections aretight. If the vehicle came equipped withspring-type hose clamps which loose theirtension over time, replace them with themore reliable screw-type clamps when newhoses are installed. A leak in the cooling sys-tem will usually show up as white or rust-col-ored deposits on the areas adjoining the leak.6 Use compressed air, water or a softbrush to remove bugs, leaves, and otherdebris from the front of the radiator or airconditioning condenser. Be careful not todamage the delicate cooling fins, or cut your-self on them.7 Finally, have the cap and system pres-sure tested. If you do not have a pressuretester available, most gas stations and repairshops will do this for a minimal charge.

11 Underhood hose - check andreplacement (every 7,500 miles or6 months)

Warning: Replacement of air conditioninghoses must be left to a dealer service depart-ment or air conditioning shop equipped todepressurize the system safely. Never removeair conditioning components or hoses untilthe system has been depressurized.

General1 High temperatures under the hood cancause the deterioration of the rubber andplastic hoses used for engine, accessory andemission systems operation. Periodic inspec-tion should be made for cracks, looseclamps, material hardening and leaks.2 Information specific to the cooling sys-tem hoses can be found in Section 10.3 Some hoses use clamps to secure thehoses to fittings. Where clamps are used,check to be sure they haven't lost their ten-sion, allowing the hose to leak. Where clampsare not used, make sure the hose hasn'texpanded and/or hardened where it slipsover the fitting, allowing it to leak.

Vacuum hoses4 It's quite common for vacuum hoses,especially those in the emissions system, tobe color coded or identified by colored

1

1-14 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

12.3 Lift the cover and check the mounting nut for tightness 12.5a Depress the release lever and .. .

stripes molded into the hose. Various sys-tems require hoses with different wall thick-ness, collapse resistance and temperatureresistance. When replacing hoses, make surethe new ones are made of the same materialas the original.5 Often the only effective way to check ahose is to remove it completely from the vehi-cle. Where more than one hose is removed,be sure to label the hoses and their attachingpoints to insure proper reattachment.6 When checking vacuum hoses, be sureto include any plastic T-fittings in the check.Check the fittings for cracks and the hosewhere it fits over the fitting for enlargement,which could cause leakage.7 A small piece of vacuum hose (1/4-inchinside diameter) can be used as a stetho-scope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one endof the hose to your ear and probe aroundvacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the"hissing" sound characteristic of a vacuumleak. Warning: When probing with the vac-uum hose stethoscope, be careful not toallow your body or the hose to come intocontact with moving engine componentssuch as the drivebelt, cooling fan, etc.

Fuel hoseWarning: Gasoline is extremely flammable,so take extra precautions when you work onany part of the fuel system. Don't smoke orallow open flames or bare light bulbs near thework area, and don't work in a garage wherea natural gas-type appliance (such as a waterheater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light ispresent. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinseit off immediately with soap and water. Whenyou perform any kind of work on the fuel sys-tem, wear safety glasses and have a Class Btype fire extinguisher on hand. Before work-ing on any part of the fuel system, relieve thefuel system pressure (see Chapter 4).8 Check all rubber fuel hoses for damageand deterioration. Check especially forcracks in areas where the hose bends andjust before clamping points, such as where ahose attaches to the fuel injection system.9 High quality fuel line, specificallydesigned for fuel injection systems, shouldbe used for fuel line replacement. Warning:

Never use vacuum line, clear plastic tubing orwater hose for fuel lines.

Brake hoses10 The hoses used to connect the brakecalipers or wheel cylinders to the metal linesare subject to extreme working conditions.They must endure high hydraulic pressures,heat and still maintain flexibility. The brakehoses typically can be inspected withoutremoving the wheels. Carefully examine eachhose for leakage, cracks, bulging, delamina-tion and damage. If any damage is found, thehose must be replaced immediately (seeChapter 9).

Fuel and brake system metallines11 Sections of metal line are often used forfuel line between the fuel tank and fuel injec-tion system. Check carefully to be sure theli ne has not been bent and crimped and thatcracks have not started in the line.12 If a section of metal fuel line must bereplaced, only seamless steel tubing shouldbe used, since copper and aluminum tubingdo not have the strength necessary to with-stand normal engine operating vibration.13 Check the metal brake lines where theyenter the master cylinder and brake propor-tioning or ABS unit (if equipped) for cracks inthe lines or loose fittings. Any sign of brakefluid leakage calls for an immediate thoroughinspection of the brake system.

12 Windshield wiper blade -inspection and replacement(every 7,500 miles or 6 months)

Refer to illustrations 12.3, 12.5a and 12.5b1 The windshield wiper blade elementsshould be checked periodically for cracksand deterioration.2 Road film can build up on the wiperblades and affect their efficiency, so theyshould be washed regularly with a mild deter-gent solution.3 The action of the wiping mechanism can

12.5b ... slide the wiper element downout of the hook in the end of the arm

loosen the wiper arm retaining nuts, so theyshould be checked and tightened at thesame time the wiper blades are checked (seeillustration).4 Lift the wiper blade assembly away fromthe windshield.5 Press the release lever and slide theblade assembly out of the hook in the end ofthe wiper arm (see illustrations). Carefullyrest the wiper arm on the windshield.6 The rubber element is secured to theblade assembly at one end of the blade ele-ment channel. Compress the locking featureon the element so it clears the tangs on theblade assembly channel claw and then slidethe element out of the frame.7 Installation is the reverse of removal.Make sure the rubber element and bladeassembly are securely attached.

13 Tire rotation (every 7,500 miles or6 months)

Refer to illustration 13.21 The tires should be rotated at the speci-fied intervals and whenever uneven wear isnoticed. Since the vehicle will be raised andthe tires removed, this is a good time tocheck the brakes also (see Section 18).

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-15

LF RF

LR RRRADIAL TIRE ROTATION

1-AJHAYNES

13.2 The recommended tire rotationpattern for these models

14 Steering and suspension - check(every 7,500 miles or 6 months)

Refer to illustrations 14.5 and 14.101 Whenever the vehicle is raised for ser-vice it is a good idea to visually check thesuspension and steering components forwear and damage.2 Indications of wear and damage includeexcessive play in the steering wheel beforethe front wheels react, excessive lean aroundcorners, body movement over rough roads orbinding at some point as the steering wheel isturned.3 Before the vehicle is raised for inspec-tion, test the shock absorbers by pushingdown to rock the vehicle at each corner. If itdoes not come back to a level position withinone or two bounces, the shocks are wornand should be replaced (see Chapter 10). Asyou perform this procedure, check for

squeaks and unusual noises from the sus-pension components. Check the shockabsorbers for fluid leakage.4 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands. Warning: Never work under avehicle that is supported only by a jack!5 Working under the vehicle, check forloose bolts, cracked, broken or disconnectedparts and deteriorated rubber bushings on allsuspension and steering components(shocks, springs, control arms, etc.). Look forgrease or fluid leaking from around the steer-ing gear input shaft and tie-rod boots (seeillustration). Check the power steeringhoses, cooler and connections for leaks.6 Have an assistant turn the steeringwheel from side-to-side and check the steer-ing components for free movement, chafing

,and binding. If the wheels don't respondclosely to the movement of the steeringwheel, determine where the slack is located.7 Check the tie-rod ends and ball jointsfor wear. They are designed not to have anyfree play. Using a pry bar or other method,attempt to create movement (up/down andside-to-side) in the tie-rod ends and balljoints. If any movement is seen or felt, a wornballjoint is indicated. To service the tie-rodends and ball joints see Chapter 10.8 Next, have an assistant grasp the tire atthe sides and pivot the tire in an in-and-outmotion (left-to-right) while you are touchingthe tie-rod end. If any looseness is felt, sus-pect a loose tie-rod stud nut, worn out tie-rodstud or a widened hole in the steeringknuckle boss. If the latter problem exists, thesteering knuckle should be renewed alongwith the tie-rod (see Chapter 10).9 Check the rear suspension ball joints forwear as described in Step 7. Inspect the trail-ing arms and lateral links for damage, loose-ness or worn bushings. If replacement is nec-essary, see Chapter 10.10 Check each wheel bearing for excessivefree play by grasping the wheel at the top andbottom, then pivot the wheel on the spindle(see illustration). The free play should beminimal, zero (no play) to approximately 1/16inch. Next, spin the wheel and listen for a

14.10 Checking the wheel bearing freeplay

grinding noise or roughness in the bearings.Don't mistake light brake drag for a wheelbearing problem. Note: The wheel bearings,front and rear, are integral with the wheelhubs. They are "lubricated for life" and are notserviceable. If the hub/wheel bearing assem-bly has excessive play or they feel rough ornoisy, replace them (see Chapter 10).

15 Exhaust system - check (every7,500 or 6 months)

Refer to illustration 15.3Note: Perform the following procedure withthe engine cold.1 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands. Warning: Never work under avehicle that is supported only by a jack!2 With the engine cold (at least threehours after the vehicle has been driven),check the complete exhaust system from itsstarting point at the engine to the end of thetailpipe.3 Check the pipes and connections forsigns of leakage and/or corrosion indicating apotential failure. Make sure that all bracketsand hangers are in good condition and tight(see illustration).

15.3 Check the exhaust systemconnections, clamps, mounting bolts,

brackets and hangers for damage (arrows)

2 Radial tires must be rotated in a specificpattern (see illustration).3 See the information in Jacking and tow-ing at the front of this manual for the properprocedures to follow when raising the vehicleand changing a tire; however, if the brakesare to be checked, don't apply the parkingbrake as stated. Make sure the tires areblocked to prevent the vehicle from rolling.Note: Prior to raising the vehicle, loosen alllug nuts a quarter turn.4 Preferably, the entire vehicle should beraised at the same time. This can be done ona hoist or by jacking up each corner of thevehicle and lowering it onto jackstands.Always use jackstands and make sure thevehicle is safely supported. Warning: Neverwork under a vehicle that is supported only bya jack!5 After the tire rotation, check and adjustthe tire pressures as necessary and tightenthe wheel lug nuts to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications.

14.5 Checking the steering rack tie-rodboot for damage 1

1-16 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

16.4 Pry the rubber plug from the oil fillhole on the side of the transaxle housing

17.3 Check each driveaxle inner andouter boot for cracks and/or

leaking grease

18.5 Measure the thickness of the brakepad from the metal backing to the brakedisc - note the inner pad generally wears

faster than the outer pad so measure bothof them

4 At the same time, inspect the undersideof the body for holes, corrosion and openseams which may allow exhaust gases toenter the passenger compartment. Seal allbody openings with silicone sealant or bodyputty.5 Rattles and other noises can often betraced to the exhaust system, especially themounts and hangers. Try to move the pipes,muffler and catalytic converter. If the compo-nents can come into contact with the body,secure the exhaust system with new mounts.6 This is also an ideal time to check therunning condition of the engine by inspectingthe very end of the tailpipe. The exhaustdeposits here are an indication of theengine's state-of-tune. If the pipe is blackand sooty or coated with white deposits, theengine may be in need of a tune-up (includinga thorough fuel injection system inspection).

16 Manual transaxle - lubricant levelcheck (every 7500 miles or 6months)

Refer to illustration 16.41 Manual transaxles do not have a fluiddipstick. The lubricant level is checked byremoving a rubber plug from the side of thetransaxle case. The lubricant level should bechecked with the engine cold and the vehiclelevel.2 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands in a level position. Warning:Never work under a vehicle that is supportedonly by a jack!3 Locate the rubber plug on the left(driver's) side of the transaxle differential nearthe driveaxle shaft. Use a rag to clean it andthe surrounding area. It may be necessary toremove the left inner fenderwell cover foraccess to the plug. Place a drain pan underthe transaxle.4 Using pliers or a large screwdriver,remove the plug (see illustration). If oilbegins to run out, let it find its own level (pre-suming the vehicle is relatively level). If oil

does not run out, insert your finger to feel thelubricant level. It should be within 3/16 of thebottom of the plug hole.5 If the transaxle requires additional lubri-cant, use a funnel with a rubber tube or asyringe to pour or squeeze the recommendedlubricant into the plug hole to restore thelevel. If you overfill it, let the fluid run out untilit is level with the plug hole. Caution: Useonly the specified transaxle lubricant - seeRecommended lubricants and fluids at thebeginning of this Chapter or your owner'smanual. Note: Most auto parts stores sellpumps that screw into the oil containerswhich make this job much easier and lessmessy.6 Push the plug securely back into thetransaxle and lower the vehicle. Test drive itand check for leaks.

17 Driveaxle boot - check (every7,500 miles or 6 months)

Refer to illustration 17.31 If the driveaxle boots are damaged, let-ting grease out and water in, serious not tomention costly damage can occur to the CVjoints. The boots should be inspected verycarefully at the recommended intervals oranytime the vehicle is raised.2 Raise the front of the vehicle and sup-port it securely on jackstands. Warning:Never work under a vehicle that is supportedonly by a jack!3 Place the transaxle in Neutral. Whilerotating the wheels, inspect the four driveaxleboots (two on each driveaxle) very carefullyfor cracks, tears, holes, deteriorated rubberand loose or missing clamps (see illustra-tion). If the boots are dirty, wipe them cleanbefore beginning the inspection.4 If damage or deterioration is evident,replace the boots and check the CV joints fordamage (see Chapter 8).5 Place the transaxle in Park or in-gear asapplicable and lower the vehicle.

18 Brake system - check (every15,000 miles or 12 months)

Warning: Dust created by the brake systemmay contain asbestos, which is harmful toyour health. Never blow it out with com-pressed air and don't inhale any of it. Anapproved filtering mask should be worn whenworking on brakes. Do not, under any circum-stances, use petroleum-based solvents toclean brake parts. Use brake system cleaneronly!1 The brakes should be inspected everytime the wheels are removed or whenever adefect is suspected. Indications of a potentialbrake system problem include the vehiclepulling to one side when the brake pedal isdepressed, noises coming from the brakeswhen they are applied, excessive brake pedaltravel, a pulsating pedal and leakage of fluid,usually seen on the inside of the tire or wheel.Note: It is normal for a vehicle equipped withan Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) to exhibitbrake pedal pulsation's during severe brakingconditions.

Disc brakesRefer to illustrations 18.52 Disc brakes can be visually checkedwithout removing any parts except thewheels. Remove the hub caps (if applicable)and loosen the front wheel lug nuts a quarterturn each.3 Raise the front of the vehicle and place itsecurely on jackstands. Warning: Never workunder a vehicle that is supported only by ajack!4 Remove the front wheels. Now visible isthe disc brake caliper which contains thepads. There is an outer brake pad and aninner pad. Both must be checked for wear.Note: Usually the inner pad wears faster thanthe outer pad.5 Measure the pad thickness at each endof the caliper (see illustration) and throughthe inspection hole in the caliper body. Com-pare the measurement with the limit given in

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-17

18.14 If the lining is bonded to the brake shoe, measure the liningthickness from the outer surface to the metal shoe, as shown

here: if the lining is riveted to the shoe, measure from the liningouter surface to the rivet head

18.17 Pry the boot away from the cylinder and checkfor fluid leakage 1

this Chapter's Specifications, if any brakepad thickness is less than specified, then allbrake pads must be replaced (see Chapter 9).6 If you're in doubt as to the exact padthickness or quality, remove them for mea-surement and further inspection (see Chap-ter 9).7 Before installing the wheels, check thebrake hoses for leakage and damage (cracks,leaks, chafed areas, etc.). Replace the hosesor fittings as necessary (see Chapter 9).8 Check the disc for score marks, wearand burned spots. If any of these conditionsexist, the disc should be removed for servic-ing or replacement (see Chapter 9).9 Install the front wheels, lower the vehicleand tighten the wheel lug nuts to the torquegiven in this Chapter's Specifications.

Drum brakesRefer to illustrations 18.14 and 18.1710 Remove the hub caps (if applicable) andloosen the wheel lug nuts a quarter turn each.11 Raise the rear of the vehicle and supportit securely on jackstands. Warning: Neverwork under a vehicle that is supported only bya jack! Block the front wheels to prevent thevehicle from rolling, however, do not applythe parking brake or it will lock the drums inplace. Remove the rear wheels.12 Remove the brake drum as described inChapter 9.13 With the drum removed, carefully cleanoff any accumulations of dirt and dust usingbrake system cleaner. Warning: DO NOTblow the dust out with compressed air anddon't inhale any of it (it may contain asbestos,which is harmful to your health).14 Measure the thickness of the liningmaterial on both leading and trailing brakeshoes (see illustration). Compare the mea-surement with the limit given in this Chapter'sSpecifications, if any brake shoe thickness isless than specified, then all brake shoes mustbe replaced (see Chapter 9).15 Inspect the brake shoes for uneven wearpatterns, cracks, glazing and delaminationand replace if necessary. If the shoes havebeen saturated with brake fluid, oil or grease,

this also necessitates replacement (seeChapter 9).16 Make sure all the brake assemblysprings are connected and in good condition.17 Check the brake wheel cylinder for signsof fluid leakage. Carefully pry back the rubberdust boots on the wheel cylinder (see illus-tration). Any leakage here is an indicationthat the wheel cylinders must be overhauledimmediately (see Chapter 9). Also, check allhoses and connections for signs of leakage.18 Wipe the inside of the drum with a cleanrag and denatured alcohol or brake cleaner.Again, be careful not to breathe the danger-ous asbestos dust.19 Inspect the inside of the drum forcracks, score marks, deep scratches and"hard spots" which will appear as small dis-colored areas. If imperfections cannot beremoved with fine emery cloth, the drummust be taken to an automotive machineshop for resurfacing.20 Repeat the procedure for the remainingwheel.21 Install the wheels, lower the vehicle andtighten the wheel lug nuts to the torque givenin this Chapter's Specifications.

Parking brake22 The easiest, and perhaps most obvious,method of periodically checking the operationof the parking brake assembly is to park thevehicle on a steep hill with the parking brakeset and the transmission in Neutral. If theparking brake cannot prevent the vehicle fromrolling, it needs adjustment (see Chapter 9).

19 Fuel system hoses andconnections - check (every15,000 miles or 12 months)

Refer to illustration 19.5Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable,so take extra precautions when you work onany part of the fuel system. Don't smoke orallow open flames or bare light bulbs near thework area, and don't work in a garage wherea natural gas-type appliance (such as a water

heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light ispresent. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinseit off immediately with soap and water. Whenyou perform any kind of work on the fuel sys-tem, wear safety glasses and have a Class Btype fire extinguisher on hand.1 If the smell of gasoline is noticed whiledriving, or after the vehicle has been parkedin the sun, the fuel system and evaporativeemissions system (see Section 26) should bethoroughly inspected immediately.2 The fuel system is under pressure evenwhen the engine is off. Consequently, the fuelsystem must be depressurized before servic-ing the system (see Chapter 4). Even afterdepressurization, if any fuel lines are discon-nected for servicing, be prepared to catchsome fuel as it spills out. Plug all discon-nected fuel lines immediately to prevent thetank from emptying itself.3 Remove the gas tank filler cap andcheck for damage, corrosion and a propersealing imprint on the gasket. Replace thecap with a new one if necessary.4 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands. Warning: Never work under avehicle that is supported only by a jack!5 Inspect the gas tank and filler neck forpunctures, cracks and other damage. Thehose connection between the filler neck andthe tank is especially critical (see illustra-

19.5 Fuel filler neck-to-tank hose (arrow)

1-18 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Cracks Running Across"V" Portions of Belt

20.2 A drivebelt routing diagram is mounted under the hood

BELTDEFLECTION

MAKE SURE RULER ISPERPENDICULAR TO STRAIGHT EDGE

Cracks Running Parallelto "V" Portions of Belt

20.3 Here are some of the more common problems associatedwith drivebelts (check the belts very carefully to prevent an

untimely breakdown)

LOCK NUT

UNACCEPTABLE

20.4 Measuring drivebelt deflection with a straightedge and ruler

tion). Sometimes the filler neck hose will leakdue to loose clamps or deteriorated rubber;problems a home mechanic can usually rec-tify.6 Carefully inspect all rubber hoses andmetal lines leading to-and-from the fuel tank.Check for loose connections, deterioratedhoses, crimped lines and damage of anykind. Follow the lines up to the front of thevehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way.Repair or replace damaged sections as nec-essary (see Chapter 4).

SUPPORTBRACKET

20.5 Loosen the alternatorpivot bolt and locking nut and

turn the adjusting bolt toachieve the proper belt tension

(four-cylinder engines)

20 Drivebelt - check, adjustmentand replacement (every 15,000miles or 12 months)

Warning: The electric cooling fan(s) on thesemodels can activate at any time the ignitionswitch is in the ON position. Make sure theignition is OFF when working in the vicinity ofthe fan(s).

CheckRefer to illustrations 20.2, 20.3 and 20.41 The drivebelts located at the front of theengine, play an important role in the opera -

tion of the vehicle and its components. Dueto their function and material makeup, thebelts are prone to failure after a period of timeand should be inspected and adjusted peri-odically to prevent major damage.2 The number of belts used depends onthe engine accessories. All engines equippedwith power steering and/or air conditioningare equipped with two drivebelts (see illus-tration). One drivebelt drives the alternatorand air conditioning compressor while theother belt drives the power steering pump.3 With the engine off, open the hood andlocate the drivebelts at the front of theengine. Using a flashlight, check each belt for

separation of the adhesive rubber on bothsides of the core, core separation from thebelt side, a severed core, separation of theribs from the adhesive rubber, cracking orseparation of the ribs, and torn or worn ribsor cracks in the inner ridges of the ribs (seeillustration). Also check for fraying and glaz-ing, which gives the belt a shiny appearance.Both sides of the belt should be inspected,which means you will have to twist the belt tocheck the underside. Use your fingers to feelthe belt where you can't see it. If any of theabove conditions are evident, replace thebelt(s). Note: On V6 engines, a better drive-belt inspection can be made by removing the

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-19

20.12a Power steering pump pivot bolt(upper arrow) and front locking bolt (lowerarrow) as viewed from under the vehicle

(V6 engine shown)

accessory drivebelt splash shield locatedinside the right hand fender well (see Adjust-ment Section below for removal procedures).4 The tension of each belt is checked bypushing on it at a distance halfway betweenthe pulleys. Apply about 10 pounds of forcewith your thumb and see how much the beltmoves down (deflects). Measure the deflec-tion with a ruler (see illustration). The beltshould deflect about 1/4-inch if the distancebetween pulleys is between 7 and 11 inchesand around 1/2-inch if the distance is be-tween 12 and 16 inches.

AdjustmentAlternator and air conditioningcompressor drivebelt

Four-cylinder enginesRefer to illustration 20.55 Loosen the alternator locking nut andpivot bolt (see illustration). Both must be

20.12b Power steering rear locking bolt(arrow) as viewed from under the vehicle

(V6 engine shown)

loosened slightly to move the component.6 After the bolt and nut have been loos-ened, turn the adjuster bolt as necessary tomove the component away from the engine(to tighten the belt) or toward the engine (toloosen the belt) to achieve the correct drive-belt tension (see Step 4). Tighten the pivotbolt and locking nut securely.

V6 engineRefer to illustrations 20.8 and 20.97 Raise the front of the vehicle and sup-port it securely on jackstands. Remove theright front wheel. Warning: Never work undera vehicle that is only supported by a jack!8 Remove the screw and push-in fasten-ers securing the accessory drivebelt splashshield to the fender and frame rail, respec-tively (see illustration).9 Loosen the idler pulley lock bolt thenturn the adjuster bolt (see illustration) asrequired to achieve the correct drivebelt ten-sion (see Step 4). Tighten the idler pulley lockbolt securely after adjustment.

Power steering drivebeltRefer to illustrations 20.12a and 20.12b10 Raise the front of the vehicle and sup-port it securely on jackstands. Warning:Never work under a vehicle that is supportedonly by a jack!11 Remove the accessory drivebelt splashshield (see illustration 20.8).12 Working under the vehicle, loosen thepower steering pump pivot and locking bolts(front and rear) (see illustrations). The powersteering pump should now be free to move.13 The power steering pump is equippedwith a square hole designed to accept a 1/2-inch square drive breaker bar to assist withadjusting the drivebelt tension.14 Position the power steering pump asrequired to achieve the correct drivebelt ten-sion (see Step 4). Tighten the pivot and lock-ing bolts securely.15 Install the accessory drivebelt splashshield and lower the vehicle.

ReplacementRefer to illustration 20.1816 To replace a drivebelt, follow the aboveprocedures for drivebelt adjustment exceptloosen the adjustment enough to allow you toslip the drivebelt off the crankshaft pulley andremove it. If you are replacing the alternatorand A/C compressor drivebelt, you mustremove the power steering drivebelt firstbecause of the way they are arranged on thecrankshaft pulley. Because both drivebeltstend to wear out equally, its a good idea toreplace both belts at the same time. As theyare removed, identify each belt as to it'sappropriate drive function (PS or ALT-A/C) sothe replacement belts can be installed in theirproper positions.17 Take the old drivebelts with you whenyou go to the auto parts store in order tomake a direct comparison for length, widthand design.18 Install the new drivebelts. Make surethey are routed correctly and properly seated

1-20 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

WRONG WRONG

20.18 When installing the V-ribbeddrivebelt, make sure it is centered on

each pulley - it must not overlapeither edge

in each pulley (see illustration).19 Adjust the respective drivebelts asdescribed earlier in this Section. After thedrivebelts have been in service for approxi-mately ten (10) hours, check the drivebelttension again and adjust if necessary as newdrivebelts tend to stretch after initial installa-tion.

21 Chassis lubrication (every 30,000miles or 24 months)

Refer to illustrations 21.1 and 21.51 A grease gun and a cartridge filled withthe proper grease (see Recommended lubri-cants and fluids), graphite spray and an oilcan filled with engine oil will be required tolubricate the chassis components (see illus-tration).2 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands. Warning: Never work under avehicle that is supported only by a jack!3 Before beginning, force a little greaseout of the nozzle to remove any dirt from theend of the gun. Wipe the nozzle clean with arag.4 Armed with the grease gun and plenty ofclean rags, begin lubricating the compo-nents. Note: The tie-rod ends and front sus-pension lower control arm ball joints are notserviceable.5 Wipe the grease fitting clean and pushthe nozzle firmly over it. Operate the lever onthe grease gun to force grease into the fittinguntil it oozes out of the joint between the twocomponents (see illustration). If greaseescapes around the grease gun nozzle, thefitting is clogged or the nozzle is not com-pletely seated on the fitting. Reattach the gunnozzle to the fitting and try again. If neces-sary, replace the fitting with a new one.6 Lubricate the sliding contact and pivotpoints of the parking brake cable along withthe cable guides and levers. This can bedone by smearing some of the chassisgrease onto the cable and related parts withyour fingers. Be careful of frayed wires!7 Lower the vehicle to the ground.8 Open the hood and smear a little chas-sis grease on the hood latch mechanism and

21.1 Materials required for chassis andbody lubrication

1 Engine oil - Light engine oil in a can likethis can be used for door and hoodhinges

2 Graphite spray - Used to lubricate lockcylinders

3 Grease - Grease, in a variety of typesand weights, is available for use in agrease gun. Check the Specificationsfor your requirements

4 Grease gun - A common grease gun,shown here with a detachable hose andnozzle, is needed for chassis lubrication.After use, clean it thoroughly

striker. Have an assistant pull the hoodrelease lever from inside the vehicle as youlubricate the cable at the latch.9 Lubricate all the hinges (door, hood,trunk, etc.) with the recommended lubricant(see Recommended lubricants and fluids atthe beginning of this Chapter) to keep them inproper working order.10 The key lock cylinders can be lubricatedwith spray-type graphite or silicone lubricantwhich is available at auto parts stores.11 Lubricate the door weather-strippingwith silicone spray. This will reduce chafingand retard wear.

21.5 Greasing the front suspension uppercontrol arm ball joint

12 Some components should not be lubri-cated for the following reasons. Some arepermanently lubricated, some lubricants willcause component failure or the lubricants willbe detrimental to the components operatingcharacteristics. Do not lubricate the follow-ing: air pump, generator bearings, drivebelts,drivebelt idler pulley, front wheel bearings,rubber bushings, starter motor bearings, sus-pension strut bearings, throttle control cable,throttle linkage ball bearings and water pumpbearings.

22 Air filter - replacement (every30,000 miles or 24 months)

Refer to illustrations 22.2 and 22.31 The air filter element is located in ahousing on the driver's side of the enginecompartment.2 Unclip the 2 latches securing the topcover of the air cleaner housing (see illustra-tion). Lift the latching side of the cover anddisengage it from the locking lugs on theopposite side.3 Position the cover out of the way and

22.2 To remove the air cleaner top cover,release the 2 latches (arrows), lift the

cover and disengage it from the lockinglugs on the opposite side

22.3 With the cover positioned out of theway, remove the air filter element from

the housing

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-21

23.4 To drain the transaxle fluid, first loosen the bolts, thenremove all the bolts except for 2 on the high side and 2 on the lowside - after breaking the pan seal, remove the 2 bolts on the lower

side and let the pan hang down to drain further23.5a Remove the transaxle fluid filter .. .

remove the air filter element (see illustra-tion).4 Inspect the inside of the air cleanerhousing, top and bottom, for dirt, debris ordamage. If necessary, clean the inside of thehousing with a rag or shop vacuum as appli-cable. If the air cleaner housing is damagedand requires replacement, refer to Chapter 4.5 Place the new filter element in position(metal screen up), install the top cover andsecure it with the retaining latches.

23 Automatic transaxle - fluid andfilter change (every 30,000 milesor 24 months)

Refer to illustrations 23.4, 23.5a and 23.5b1 The automatic transaxle fluid and filtershould be changed and the magnet cleanedat the recommended intervals.2 Raise the front of the vehicle and sup-port it securely on jackstands. Warning:Never work under a vehicle that is supportedonly by a jack! Extract the two push-in fasten-ers and remove the transaxle splash shield.3 Since the transaxle drain pan does nothave a drain plug, this procedure can get abit messy, so you should have plenty of cleanrags and newspapers handy to mop up anyspills that may occur. If the drain pan you'reusing isn't very large in diameter, place it on apiece of plastic such as a trash bag to catchany splashing oil.4 Position a container capable of holdingat least 5 quarts under the transaxle oil pan.Loosen only the pan bolts. Remove the boltson each side of the pan leaving two boltsloosely in place on the upper and lower sidesof the pan (see illustration). Tap the cornersof the pan using a soft-faced mallet to breakthe seal and allow the fluid to drain into thecontainer (the remaining bolts will prevent thepan from completely separating from thetransaxle). Remove the 2 bolts from the lowerside of the pan and let it hang down to drain

further. After the pan has finished draining,remove the remaining bolts and detach thepan.5 Remove the filter and 0-ring seal (seeillustrations).6 Carefully remove all traces of old sealantfrom the pan, transaxle body (be careful notto nick or gouge the sealing surfaces) and thebolts.7 Clean the pan and the magnet locatedinside the pan with a clean, lint-free clothmoistened with solvent. Don't forget to placethe magnet back in its proper location at thebottom of the pan.8 Fit the new filter, with a new 0-ringinstalled, in place on the transaxle valvebody.9 Apply a 1/8-inch bead of Mopar RTVsealant (or equivalent) to the pan sealing sur-face (stay on the inboard side of the boltholes) and to the underside of each bolthead.10 Position the pan on the transaxle andinstall the bolts. Tighten them to the torquelisted in this Chapter's Specifications follow-ing a criss-cross pattern. Work up to the finaltorque in three or four steps. Allow the RTVsealant time to dry according to the manufac-turer's instructions.11 Install the transaxle splash shield andsecure it with the two push-in fasteners.12 Lower the vehicle and add four quarts ofthe specified fluid (see Recommended lubri-cants and fluids at the beginning of thisChapter) to the transaxle (see Section 6 ifnecessary). Start the engine and allow it toidle for at least two minutes while checkingfor leakage around the pan.13 With the engine running and the brakesapplied, move the shift lever through each ofthe gear positions and ending in Park. Checkthe fluid level on the dipstick. The levelshould be just up to the ADD mark. If neces-sary, add more fluid (a little at a time) until thelevel is just at the ADD mark (be careful not tooverfill it).

23.5b ... and 0-ring seal

14 Drive the vehicle until it reaches normaloperating temperature. Recheck the fluidlevel and add as necessary until the fluidreaches the HOT range on the dipstick (seeSection 6).15 The old oil cannot be reused in its pre-sent state and should be disposed of prop-erly. Oil reclamation centers, auto repairshops and gas stations will normally acceptused oil. It should be placed into sealablecontainers (plastic bottles with screw-on topsare preferred) for transport to a disposal site.

24 Manual transaxle - lubricantchange (every 30,000 or 24months)

Refer to illustrations 24.2a and 24.2b1 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands in a level position. Warning:Never work under a vehicle that is supportedonly by a jack!2 Using a box-end wrench or socket toprevent rounding off the plug wrenching flats,

1-22 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

24.2a To avoid rounding off the corners,use the correct size box-end wrench or asocket to remove the manual transaxle oil

drain plug .. .

remove the drain plug. Drain the fluid into asuitable container capable of holding at least4 quarts (see illustrations).3 After the fluid has completely drained,install the drain plug and tighten it to thetorque given in this Chapter's Specifications.4 Fill the transaxle with the recommendedlubricant (see Section 16).5 The old oil cannot be reused in its pre-sent state and should be disposed of prop-erly. Oil reclamation centers, auto repairshops and gas stations will normally acceptused oil. It should be placed into sealablecontainers (plastic bottles with screw-on topsare preferred) for transport to a disposal site.

25 Cooling system - servicing(draining, flushing and refilling)(every 30,000 miles or 24 months)

Warning 1: Do not allow coolant (antifreeze)to come in contact with your skin or paintedsurfaces of the vehicle. Flush contaminatedareas immediately with plenty of water. Donot store new coolant or leave old coolantlying around where it's accessible to childrenor pets - they're attracted by its sweet smell.Ingestion of even a small amount of coolantcan be fatal! Wipe up garage floor and drippan spills immediately. Keep antifreeze con-tainers covered and repair cooling systemleaks as soon as they're noticed. Check withlocal authorities about the disposal of usedantifreeze. Many communities have collectioncenters which will see that antifreeze is dis-posed of properly.Warning 2: The electric cooling fan(s) onthese models can activate at any time theignition switch is in the ON position. Makesure the ignition is OFF when working in thevicinity of the fan(s).1 Periodically, the cooling system shouldbe drained, flushed and refilled to replenishthe coolant (antifreeze) mixture and preventformation of rust and corrosion, which can

24.2b . . . and drain the fluid

impair the performance of the cooling systemand cause engine damage. When the coolingsystem is serviced, all hoses and the radiatorcap should be checked and replaced, if nec-essary.

DrainingRefer to illustration 25.52 At the same time the cooling system isserviced, all hoses and the radiator (pressure)cap should be inspected, tested andreplaced if faulty (see Section 10).3 With the engine cold, remove the pres-sure cap and set the heater control to maxi-mum heat.4 Move a large container capable of hold-ing at least 10 quarts under the radiator drainfitting to catch the coolant mixture as it'sdrained.5 Open the drain fitting located at the bot-tom of the radiator (see illustration). Onvehicles equipped with the V6 engine, thedrain fitting cannot be reached by hand. Toopen the drain fitting, use a universal jointand socket attached to a long extension.Allow the coolant to completely drain out.

FlushingRefer to illustration 25.116 Remove the thermostat housing and thethermostat (see Chapter 3).7 Disconnect the lower hose from theradiator (see Chapter 3 if necessary).8 Place a garden hose in the upper radia-tor hose (to flush radiator) and then the ther-mostat opening in the engine block (to flushengine block and heater core). Flush the sys-tem until the water runs clear out of the radia-tor and lower radiator hose respectively.9 In severe cases of contamination orclogging of the radiator, remove it (see Chap-ter 3) and reverse flush it. This involves insert-ing the hose in the bottom radiator outlet toallow the clean water to run against the nor-mal flow, draining out through the top. A radi-ator repair shop should be consulted if furthercleaning or repair is necessary.10 When the coolant is regularly drainedand the system refilled with the correct

25.5 The drain fitting (arrow) is located atthe bottom of the radiator on the righthand side (radiator removed for clarity)

25.11 To remove the coolant reservoir,disconnect the hose (A) and remove the 2

mounting bolts (arrows)

coolant mixture there should be no need toemploy chemical cleaners or descalers.11 Disconnect the coolant reservoir hose,remove the reservoir from the vehicle andflush it with clean water (see illustration).Inspect it for damage and replace if neces-sary.

Refilling12 Install the thermostat, the thermostathousing and connect the radiator hose (seeChapter 3).13 Connect the lower radiator hose (seeChapter 3 if necessary).14 Install the coolant reservoir, reconnectthe hose and close the radiator drain fitting.15 Add the correct mixture of high-qualityantifreeze/coolant and water in the ratiospecified on the antifreeze container or in thisChapter's Specifications through the fillerneck until it reaches the pressure cap seat.16 Add the same coolant mixture to thereservoir until it the level is between the FULLand ADD marks.17 Run the engine until normal operatingtemperature is reached and with the engine

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-23

27.2 Tools required for changingspark plugs

1 Spark plug socket - This will havespecial padding inside to protect thespark plug's porcelain insulator

2 Torque wrench - Although notmandatory, using this tool is the bestway to ensure the plugs are tightenedproperly

3 Ratchet - Standard hand tool to fit thespark plug socket

4 Extension - Depending on model andaccessories, you may need specialextensions and universal joints to reachone or more of the plugs

5 Spark plug gap gauge - This gauge forchecking the gap comes in a variety ofstyles. Make sure the gap for yourengine is included

idling, add coolant up to the correct level.Install the pressure cap.18 Always refill the system with the speci-fied mixture of coolant and water. See Chap-ter 3 for more information on antifreeze mix-tures.19 Keep a close watch on the coolant leveland the various cooling system hoses duringthe first few miles of driving and check forany coolant leaks. Tighten the hose clampsand add more coolant mixture as necessary.

26 Evaporative emissions controlsystem - check (every 30,000miles or 24 months)

1 The function of the evaporative emis-sions control system is to prevent fuel vaporsfrom escaping the fuel system and beingreleased into the atmosphere. Vapors fromthe fuel tank are temporarily stored in a char-coal canister. The Powertrain Control Module(PCM) monitors the system and allows thevapors to be drawn into the intake manifoldwhen the engine reaches normal operatingtemperature.2 The charcoal canister on 1995 through1997 models is mounted to a bracket behindthe right front bumper fascia adjacent to thewindshield washer reservoir. On 1998 mod-els, it's located on top of the fuel tank. Thecanisters are maintenance-free and shouldlast the life of the vehicle.

27.5a Spark plug manufacturersrecommend using a wire-type gauge

when checking the gap - if the wire doesnot slide between the electrodes with a

slight drag, adjustment is required

3 The most common symptom of a fault inthe evaporative emissions system is a strongfuel odor in the engine compartment or rawfuel leaking from the canister. These indica-tions are usually more prevalent in hot tem-peratures. All systems except for thoseinstalled on 1995 models are pressurized bya Leak Detection Pump (LDP). If normal sys-tem pressure cannot be achieved by theLDP, which indicates a leak, the PCM willstore the appropriate fault code and illumi-nate the CHECK ENGINE light on the instru-ment panel. The most common cause of sys-tem pressure loss is a loose or poor sealinggas cap.4 For more information and replacementprocedures see Chapter 6.

27 Spark plugs - check andreplacement (see Maintenanceschedule for intervals)

Refer to illustrations 27.2, 27.5a and 27.5b

All models1 The spark plugs are located in the cylin-der head.2 In most cases the tools necessary forspark plug replacement include a spark plugsocket which fits onto a ratchet (this specialsocket is padded inside to protect the porce-lain insulators on the new plugs and holdthem in place), various extensions and afeeler gauge to check and adjust the sparkplug gap (see illustration). A special plugwire removal tool is available for separatingthe wire boot from the spark plug, but it isn'tabsolutely necessary. Since these enginesare equipped with an aluminum cylinderhead(s), a torque wrench should be usedwhen tightening the spark plugs.3 The best approach when replacing thespark plugs is to purchase the new spark

27.5b To change the gap, bend the sideelectrode only, as indicated by the arrows,

and be very careful not to crack or chipthe porcelain insulator surrounding the

center electrode

plugs beforehand, adjust them to the propergap and then replace each plug one at atime. When buying the new spark plugs, besure to obtain the correct plug for your spe-cific engine. This information can be found inthe Specification Section at the front of thisChapter, in your owner's manual or on theVehicle Emissions Control Information (VECI)label located under the hood. If differencesexist between the sources, purchase thespark plug type specified on the VECI labelas it was printed for your specific engine.4 Allow the engine to cool completelybefore attempting to remove any of theplugs. During this cooling off time, each ofthe new spark plugs can be inspected fordefects and the gaps can be checked.5 The gap is checked by inserting theproper thickness gauge between the elec-trodes at the tip of the plug (see illustration).The gap between the electrodes should be asspecified on the VECI label in the enginecompartment or as listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications. The wire should touch each ofthe electrodes. If the gap is incorrect, use theadjuster on the thickness , gauge body tobend the curved side electrode slightly untilthe proper gap is obtained (see illustration).Also, at this time check for cracks in thespark plug body (if any are found, the plugmust not be used). If the side electrode is notexactly over the center one, use the adjusterto align the two.6 Cover the fender to prevent damage tothe paint, fender covers are available fromauto parts stores but an old blanket will workjust fine.

Four-cylinder enginesRefer to illustrations 27.7a and 27.7b7 Note: Due to the short length of thespark plug wire, always disconnect the sparkplug wire from the ignition coil pack first. Dis-connect the spark plug wire from any retain-ing clips. With the engine cool, disconnect

1

1-24 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

27.7a Pull on the spark plug wire boot and twist it back-and-forthwhile pulling it from the ignition coil pack

27.7b Use a twisting motion to free the boot and then pull it fromthe valve cover

27.15 A length of 3/8-inch ID rubber hosewill save time and prevent damaged

threads when installing the spark plugs

27.12 Use a ratchet and extension toremove the spark plugs

one of the spark plug wires from the ignitioncoil pack (see illustration). Pull only on theboot at the end of the wire; don't pull on thewire. Using a twisting motion, loosen theboot/wire at the valve cover, then withdrawthe boot/wire from the valve cover (see illus-tration).

V6 engineNote: On V6 models, the manufacturer rec-ommends replacing the spark plugs, sparkplug wires, distributor cap and rotor at thesame time. Refer to Section 29 for spark plugwire, distributor cap and rotor replacement.8 Remove the upper intake manifold (seeChapter 2B).9 To prevent dirt or other foreign debrisfrom entering the engine, place clean ragsinto the openings in the lower intake mani-fold.10 Detach any clips securing the spark plugwires. Using a twisting motion, loosen theboot/wire at the valve cover, then withdrawthe boot/wire from the valve cover (see illus-tration 27.7b).

27.14 Apply a thin coat of anti-seizecompound to the spark plug threads - DO

NOT get any on the electrodes!

All modelsRefer to illustrations 27.12, 27.14 and 27.1511 If compressed air is available, use it toblow any dirt or foreign material away fromthe spark plug area. Warning: Use propereye protection! A common bicycle pump willalso work. The idea here is to eliminate thepossibility of material falling into the cylinderthrough the spark plug hole as the spark plugis removed.12 Place the spark plug socket over theplug and remove it from the engine by turningit in a counterclockwise direction (see illus-tration).13 Compare the spark plug with the charton the inside back cover of this manual to getan indication of the overall running conditionof the engine.14 It's a good idea to lightly coat thethreads of the spark plugs with an anti-seizecompound (see illustration) to insure thatthe spark plugs do not seize in the aluminumcylinder head. Be careful not to get any of theanti-seize compound on the plug electrodes!

15 It's often difficult to insert spark plugsinto their holes without cross-threading them.To avoid this possibility, fit a piece of 3/8-inch ID rubber hose over the end of the sparkplug (see illustration). The flexible hose actsas a universal joint to help align the plug withthe plug hole. Should the plug begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug,preventing thread damage. Install the sparkplug and tighten it to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications.16 Attach the plug wire to the new sparkplug, again using a twisting motion on theboot until it is firmly seated on the end of thespark plug. On four-cylinder engines, attachthe other end to the ignition coil pack. Attachthe spark plug wire to any retaining clips tosecure the wires in their proper location onthe valve cover.17 Follow the above procedure for theremaining spark plugs, replacing them one ata time to prevent mixing up the spark plugwires.18 On V6 models, replace the spark plugwires, distributor cap and rotor (see Section29). Remove the rags from the lower intakemanifold and install the upper intake manifold(see Chapter 2B).

8 Installation is the reverse of removal. spark plug wire from the ignition coil pack.Make sure the new PCV valve is installed with Pull only on the boot at the end of the wire;the closed end (plunger seat) towards the don't pull on the wire itself. Use a twistingvalve cover. motion to free the boot/wire from the coil.

Disconnect the same spark plug wire fromthe spark plug, using the same twistingmethod while pulling on the boot. Disconnectthe spark plug wire from any retaining clipsas necessary and remove it from the engine.5 Check inside the boot for corrosion,which will look like a white, crusty powder(don't mistake the white dielectric greaseused on some plug wire boots for corrosionprotection).6 Now push the wire and boot back ontothe end of the spark plug. It should be a tightfit on the plug end. If not, remove the wireand use a pair of pliers to carefully crimp themetal connector inside the wire boot until thefit is snug.7 Now push the wire and boot back intothe end of the ignition coil terminal. It shouldbe a tight fit in the terminal. If not, remove thewire and use a pair of pliers to carefully crimpthe metal connector inside the wire boot untilthe fit is snug.8 Now, using a cloth, clean each wirealong its entire length. Remove all built-updirt and grease. As this is done, inspect forburned areas, cracks and any other form ofdamage. Bend the wires in several places toensure that the conductive material insidehasn't hardened. Repeat the procedure forthe remaining wires.9 If new spark plug wires are required,purchase a complete set for your particularengine. The terminals and rubber bootsshould already be installed on the wires.Replace the wires one at a time to avoid mix-ing up the firing order and make sure the ter-minals are securely seated on the coil packand the spark plugs.10 Attach the plug wire to the new sparkplug and to the ignition coil pack using atwisting motion on the boot until it is firmlyseated. Attach the spark plug wire to anyretaining clips to keep the wires in theirproper location on the valve cover.

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-25

28.2a The PCV valve (arrow) is located in a hose leading from thevalve cover to the intake manifold (four-cylinder engines) 28.2b Removing the PCV valve from the valve cover (V6 engine)

28 Positive Crankcase Ventilation(PCV) valve - check andreplacement (every 60,000 milesor 48 months)

Refer to illustrations 28.2a and 28.2b1 The PCV valve controls the amount ofcrankcase vapors allowed to enter the intakemanifold. Inside the PCV valve is a springloaded valve that opens in relation to intakemanifold vacuum, which allows crankcasevapors to be drawn from the valve coverback into the engine combustion chamber.2 The PCV valve on four-cylinder enginesis located in the rubber hose connected tothe intake manifold plenum and the valvecover (see illustration). On V6 models, itslocated in the front of the left-bank valvecover (see illustration).3 To check the operation of the PCVvalve, disconnect the valve from the valvecover or hose that leads to the valve cover,depending on your particular application.4 Start the engine. A hissing sound shouldbe heard coming from the PCV valve. Placeyour finger over the valve opening - thereshould be vacuum present. If there's no vac-uum at the valve, check for a plugged hose,plenum port or valve. Replace any plugged ordeteriorated hoses.5 Check the spring-loaded valve locatedinside for freedom of movement by using asmall screwdriver or equivalent to push thevalve off its seat and see it returns to the fullyseated position. If the valve is sluggish or theinside of the valve is contaminated with gumand carbon deposits, the valve must bereplaced.6 To replace the valve, disconnect it fromthe intake manifold hose and valve cover orvalve cover hose as applicable.7 When purchasing a replacement PCVvalve, make sure it's for your particular vehi-cle and engine size. Compare the old valvewith the new one to make sure they're thesame.

29 Spark plug wires, distributor capand rotor - check andreplacement (see Maintenanceschedule for intervals)

Note: Distributor cap and rotor replacementapplies to V6 engines only.

All models1 The spark plug wires should be checkedat the recommended intervals or whenevernew spark plugs are installed.2 Begin this procedure by making a visualcheck of the spark plug wires while theengine is running. In a darkened garage(make sure there is adequate ventilation) or atnight while using a flashlight, start the en g ineand observe each plug wire. Be careful not tocome into contact with any moving engineparts. If possible, use an insulated or non-conductive object to wiggle each wire. Ifthere is a break in the wire, you will see arc-ing or a small blue spark coming from thedamaged area. Secondary ignition voltageincreases with engine speed and sometimesa damaged wire will not produce an arc atidle speed. Have an assistant press theaccelerator pedal to raise the engine speedto approximately 2000 rpm. Check the sparkplug wires for arcing as stated previously. Ifarcing is noticed, replace all spark plug wires.

Four-cylinder engines3 Perform the following checks with theengine OFF. The wires should be inspectedone at a time to prevent mixing up the orderwhich is essential for proper engine opera-tion. Note: Due to the short length of thespark plug wire, always disconnect the sparkplug wire from the ignition coil pack first.4 With the engine cool, disconnect the

1-26 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

V6 engineRefer to illustration 29.15Note: On V6 engines, the manufacturer rec-ommends replacing the spark plugs, sparkplug wires, distributor cap and rotor at thesame time.11 Remove the upper intake manifold (seeChapter 2B).12 To prevent dirt or other foreign debrisfrom entering the engine, place duct tapeover the openings of the lower intake mani-fold.13 Remove the EGR tube from the EGRvalve (see Chapter 6 if necessary).14 Disconnect one spark plug wire from thedistributor cap. Pull only on the boot at theend of the wire; don't pull on the wire itself.Use a twisting motion to free the boot/wirefrom the distributor. Install the removed wireinto the new distributor cap in the exact samelocation. Repeat this procedure until all sparkplug wires are installed in the new cap.15 Loosen the 2 screws and remove the olddistributor cap (see illustration). Remove therotor.16 Install the new rotor and distributor cap(with spark plug wires attached).17 Replace the spark plugs as described inSection 27, except do not reattach the sparkplug wires to the retaining clips.18 Replace the spark plug wires one at atime to avoid mixing up the firing order andmake sure the terminals are securely seatedon the distributor cap and the spark plugs.Install the plug wires using a twisting motion

on the boot until it is firmly seated. Attach thespark plug wire to any retaining clips asrequired.19 Using a new gasket, install the EGR 1 The manufacturer does not suggesttube onto the EGR valve (see Chapter 6). periodic fuel filter replacement on JA seriesTighten the bolts to the torque given in the models. See Chapter 4 if the fuel filterSpecification Section of Chapter 6. requires replacement due to a fuel restriction20 Remove the duct tape from the lower or fuel contamination problem.intake manifold.21 Install the upper intake manifold (seeChapter 2B).

29.15 Distributor capretaining screw locations

(V6 engines only)

30 Fuel filter - replacement

Chapter 2 Part AFour-cylinder enginesContents

SectionBalance shafts (2.4L engine) ..........................................See Chapter 2CCamshafts - removal, inspection and installation ................................10Camshaft oil seal - replacement ............................................................8CHECK ENGINE light ....................................................... See Chapter 6Crankshaft front oil seal - replacement ................................................. 7Cylinder head - removal and installation ..............................................12Engine mounts - check and replacement ............................................ 17Exhaust manifold - removal and installation..........................................5Driveplate - removal and installation ....................................................15General information................................................................................1Intake manifold - removal, inspection and installation .......................... 4

SectionOil pan - removal and installation........................................................ 13Oil pump - removal, inspection and installation ...................................14Rear main oil seal - replacement.........................................................16Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle.................... 2Rocker arm and hydraulic valve lash adjuster - removal,

inspection and installation ................................................................9Timing belt - removal, inspection and installation .................................6Top dead center (TDC) for number one piston .............. See Chapter 2CValve cover - removal and installation...................................................3Valve springs, retainers and seals - replacement ................................11

Specifications

GeneralBore.........................................................................................................Stroke

2.0L....................................................................................................2.4L....................................................................................................

Compression ratio2.0L....................................................................................................2.4L....................................................................................................

Compression pressure............................................................................Displacement

2.0L....................................................................................................2.4L....................................................................................................

Firing order..............................................................................................Oil pressure

At idle speed......................................................................................At 3000 rpm .......................................................................................

3.445 inches

3.268 inches3.976 inches

9.8:19.4:1 Front170 to 225 psi Of

Vehicle122 cubic inches148 cubic inches1-3-4-2

4 psi (minimum)25 to 80 psi

Cylinder numbering and coilterminal locations

2A-2 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines

CamshaftBearing journal diameter

2.0LNo. 1.............................................................................................No. 2.............................................................................................No. 3.............................................................................................No. 4.............................................................................................No. 5.............................................................................................

2.4L ....................................................................................................Bearing bore diameter

2.0LNo. 1..............................................................................................No. 2.............................................................................................No. 3.............................................................................................No. 4.............................................................................................No. 5.............................................................................................

2.4L....................................................................................................Bearing clearance...................................................................................Endplay

2.0L2.4L

Lobe lift2.0L

Intake............................................................................................Exhaust.........................................................................................

2.4LIntake............................................................................................Exhaust.........................................................................................

Cylinder headHead gasket surface warpage limit .........................................................Exhaust manifold mounting surface warpage limit .................................

Intake and exhaust manifoldsWarpage limit..........................................................................................

Rocker arm shaft assemblies (2.0L engine only)Rocker arm shaft diameter ......................................................................Rocker arm inside diameter ....................................................................Rocker arm-to-shaft clearance ...............................................................Rocker arm shaft retainer width

Intake.................................................................................................Exhaust

No. 1 and No. 5............................................................................No. 2, No. 3 and No. 4..................................................................

Oil pumpCover warpage limit................................................................................Inner rotor thickness

2.0L....................................................................................................2.4L....................................................................................................

Outer rotor thickness2.0L....................................................................................................2.4L....................................................................................................

Outer rotor diameter ................................................................................Rotor-to-pump cover clearance ..............................................................Outer rotor-to-housing clearance............................................................Inner rotor-to-outer rotor lobe clearance ................................................Pressure relief spring free length .............................................................

Torque specificationsCamshaft bearing cap bolts

M6 bolts .............................................................................................M8 bolts .............................................................................................

Camshaft position sensor bolts2.0L....................................................................................................2.4L....................................................................................................

1.619 to 1.6199 inches1.634 to 1.635 inches1.650 to 1.651 inches1.666 to 1.668 inches1.682 to 1.6829 inches1.021 to 1.022 inches

1.622 to 1.6228 inches1.637 to 1.638 inches1.653 to 1.654 inches1.669 to 1.670 inches1.685 to 1.6858 inches1.024 to 1.025 inches0.0027 to 0.003 inch

.................................................................................................

.................................................................................................0.0059 inch0.002 to 0.006 inch

0.307 inch0.277 inch

0.324 inch0.256 inch

0.004 inch maximum0.006 inch maximum (per foot)

0.006 inch maximum (per foot)

0.786 to 0.7867 inch0.787 to 0.788 inch0.0006 to 0.0021 inch

1.12 inches

1.14 inches1.59 inches

0.003 inch

0.301 inch (minimum)0.370 inch (minimum)

0.301 inch (minimum)0.370 inch (minimum)3.148 inch (minimum)0.004 inch0.015 inch (maximum)0.008 inch (maximum)2.39 inches (approximate)

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

105 in-lbs250 in-lbs

85 in-lbs20

Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-3

Torque specifications (continued) Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)Camshaft sprocket/pulley bolt

2.0L.............................................................................................................852.4L.............................................................................................................75

Crankshaft damper bolt................................................................................... 100 to 105Cylinder head bolts

Step 1 .....................................................................................................25Step 2....................................................................................................50Step 3....................................................................................................50Step 4....................................................................................................Tighten an additional 1/4 turn (90-degrees)

Engine mounting bracket bolts........................................................................30 to 45Exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head bolts .........................................................200 in-lbsExhaust manifold-to-exhaust pipe bolts ..........................................................20Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts .................................................................. 105 in-lbsFront engine mount strut and structural collar bolts (1998 2.4L engine only) (see illustration 13.16)

Bolts 1 through 3........................................................................................ 75Bolts 4 through 8........................................................................................ 45

Driveplate-to-crankshaft bolts ......................................................................... 70Intake manifold bolts

2.0L (plastic manifold) .................................................................................105 in-lbs2.4L (aluminum manifold) ........................................................................... 200 in-lbs

Oil filter adapter fastener ..................................................................................60Oil pan bolts .....................................................................................................105 in-lbsOil part-to-transaxle structural collar bolts (1997 2.4L and 1998 2.0L engines only)

Step 1 (collar-to-oil pan bolts) .................................................................... 30 in-lbsStep 2 (collar-to-transaxle bolts) ................................................................ 80Step 3 (collar-to-oil pan bolts) .................................................................... 40

Oil pumpAttaching bolts ............................................................................................250 in-lbsCover screws..............................................................................................105 in-lbsPick-up tube bolt........................................................................................250 in-lbsRelief valve cap bolt................................................................................... 30

Rocker arm shaft bolts (2.0L) ...........................................................................250 in-lbsThermostat housing bolts ................................................................................ 200 in-lbsTiming belt

Cover bolts2.0L........................................................................................................105 in-lbs2.4L

Outer-to-inner attaching bolts ......................................................... 40 in-lbsInner cover-to-head/oil pump bolts.................................................105 in-lbs

Tensioner boltsMechanical type ......................................................................................... 250 in-lbsHydraulic type

Tensioner pulley assembly plate bolts ..................................................23Tensioner unit bolts...............................................................................23Tensioner pulley bolt .............................................................................30

Timing belt idler pulley bolt (2.4L)....................................................................45Valve cover bolts..............................................................................................105 in-lbsWater pump mounting bolt.............................................................................. 105 in-lbs*Refer to Part C for additional torque specifications

2A

2A-4 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines

3.6a Remove the valve cover mounting bolts .. .L

3.6b ... and lift the cover and gasket off the cylinder head

1 General information

This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to in-vehicle engine repair procedures on modelsequipped with 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter four-cylin-der engines. Information concerning engineremoval and installation and engine blockand cylinder head overhaul can be found inPart C of this Chapter.

The following repair procedures arebased on the assumption that the engine isinstalled in the vehicle. If the engine has beenremoved from the vehicle and mounted on astand, many of the steps outlined in this Partof Chapter 2 will not apply.

The Specification Section included inthis Part of Chapter 2 apply only to the proce-dures contained in this Part. Part C of Chap-ter 2 contains the Specification Section nec-essary for cylinder head and engine blockrebuilding.

There are two four-cylinder enginesinstalled in the models covered in this man-ual; the 2.0L Single Overhead Camshaft(SOHC) engine and the 2.4L Double Over-head Camshaft (DOHC) engine. The main dif-ference between the 2.0 liter and 2.4 literengines, besides the obvious engine dis-placement, is the incorporation of two bal-ance shafts installed below the crankshaft ofthe 2.4L engine. For service information onthe balance shafts refer to Part C of thisChapter.

2 Repair operations possible withthe engine in the vehicle

Many major repair operations can beaccomplished without removing the enginefrom the vehicle.

Clean the engine compartment and theexterior of the engine with some type ofdegreaser before any work is done. It willmake the job easier and help keep dirt out ofthe internal areas of the engine.

Depending on the components involved,it may be helpful to remove the hood to

improve access to the engine 'as repairs areperformed (refer to Chapter 11 if necessary).Cover the fenders to prevent damage to thepaint. Special pads are available, but an oldbedspread or blanket will also work.

If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaksdevelop, indicating a need for gasket or sealreplacement, the repairs can generally bemade with the engine in the vehicle. Theintake and exhaust manifold gaskets, oil pangasket, camshaft and crankshaft oil sealsand cylinder head gasket are all accessiblewith the engine in place.

Exterior engine components, such asthe intake and exhaust manifolds, the oil pan,the oil pump, the water pump, the startermotor, the alternator, the distributor and thefuel system components can be removed forrepair with the engine in place.

Since the camshaft(s) and cylinder headcan be removed without pulling the engine,valve component servicing can also beaccomplished with the engine in the vehicle.Replacement of the timing belt and sprocketsis also possible with the engine in the vehicle.

In extreme cases caused by a lack ofnecessary equipment, repair or replacementof piston rings, pistons, connecting rods androd bearings is possible with the engine in thevehicle. However, this practice is not recom-mended because of the cleaning and prepa-ration work that must be done to the compo-nents involved.

3 Valve cover - removal andinstallation

RemovalRefer to illustrations 3.6a and 3.6b1 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Remove the ignition coil pack from thevalve cover (see Chapter 5).3 Remove the spark plug wires (see Chap-ter 1).4 On 2.4L engines, disconnect the groundstrap from the valve cover.

5 Clearly label and then disconnect anyemission hoses and electrical cables whichconnect to or cross over the valve cover.6 Remove the valve cover bolts and lift thecover off (see illustrations). If the coversticks to the cylinder head, tap on it with asoft-face hammer or place a wood blockagainst the cover and tap on the wood with ahammer. Caution: If you have to pry betweenthe valve cover and the cylinder head, beextremely careful not to gouge or nick thegasket surfaces of either part. A leak coulddevelop after reassembly.7 Remove the valve cover gasket, 1/2round seal (2.4L engines) and spark plug tubeseals. Thoroughly clean the valve cover andremove all traces of old gasket material. Gas-ket removal solvents are available from autoparts stores and may prove helpful. Aftercleaning the surfaces, degrease them with arag soaked in lacquer thinner or acetone.

InstallationRefer to illustrations 3.8 and 3.98 Install the new spark plug tube seals(see illustration).9 Install a new gasket on the cover,using RTV sealant to hold it in place (seeillustration).

3.8 Install new spark plug tube sealsand make sure they are properly

seated in the cover

Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-5

3.9 Apply a light coat of RTV sealant onto the cover sealingsurfaces and install the new gasket (arrow)

3.16 After applying a small amount of Loctite No. 271 (orequivalent) to the lower end of the tube(s) (arrows), installit and carefully tap the tube into place until its fully seated

in the cylinder head (2.0L engine only) 2A10 On 2.4L engines, install the half-roundseal, apply anaerobic RTV sealant to thecamshaft cap corners and at the top edges ofthe half-round seal.11 Place the cover on the engine and installthe cover bolts. Tighten the valve cover boltsin three steps to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications using a criss-crosspattern, starting in the middle of the coverand working outwards.12 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal. When installation is com-plete, start the engine and check for oil leaks.

Spark plug tube replacement(2.0L engine only)Refer to illustration 3.1613 Remove the valve cover (see above).14 Grasp spark plug tube with locking pli-ers, carefully twist back and forth and removethe tube from cylinder head.15 Clean the locking agent from the tubeend and the receptacle in cylinder head withsolvent and dry.

16 Apply approximately 1/8 inch wide stripof Loctite sealer No. 271, or equivalent,around the lower end of the tube and installthe tube into the cylinder head. Carefully tapthe tube into the receptacle with a soft facemallet or wood block. Tap the tube in until itis fully seated in the cylinder head (see illus-tration).17 Allow the Loctite to cure according tothe manufacturer's instructions.18 Install the valve cover (see above).

4 Intake manifold - removal,inspection and installation

Warning: Allow the engine to cool completelybefore beginning this procedure.

RemovalRefer to illustrations 4.4a, 4.4b, 4.8, 4.11aand 4.1lb

1 Relieve the fuel system pressure (seeChapter 4).

2 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).3 Remove the air cleaner assembly (seeChapter 4).4 Clearly label and disconnect all vacuumhoses, wires, brackets and emission hoseswhich run to the fuel injection system, throttlebody and intake manifold (see illustrations).5 Remove the fuel rail and injector assem-bly (see Chapter 4).6 Remove the throttle body (see Chap-ter 4).7 Remove the transaxle-to-throttle bodysupport bracket fasteners and loosen (only)the fastener on the transaxle side. Be sure todisconnect any electrical connections thatare fastened to the support bracket beforetrying to move the parts out of the way.8 Remove the EGR tube (see illustration).9 On 2.0L engines, remove the water inlettube support-to-intake manifold fastener.10 On 2.4L engines, remove the intakemanifold support bracket located on thedriver's side of the manifold.

4.4b Disconnect the power brake boostervacuum hose from the intake manifold

(2.0L engine shown)

4.4a Disconnect the PCV valve hosefrom the intake manifold fitting

(2.0L engine shown)

4.8 Remove the mounting bolts from theEGR tube (arrows) at the intake manifold

and EGR valve (shown) and removethe tube

2A-6 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines

4.11a Remove the intake manifold mounting bolts in acriss-cross pattern .. .

4.l lb . . . then remove the intake manifold from the cylinder head

11 Unbolt the intake manifold and remove itfrom the engine (see illustrations). If itsticks, lightly tap the manifold with a soft-face hammer or carefully pry it from the head.Caution: On 2.4L engines, do not prybetween gasket sealing surfaces or tap onany fuel injector boss. On 2.0L engines, theintake manifold is made of plastic. Althoughit's pretty strong, it's not very impact resistantso use caution when tapping on it.

InspectionRefer to illustration 4.1312 On 2.4L engines, remove intake mani-fold gasket by carefully scraping all traces ofgasket material from both the cylinder headand the intake manifold. Caution: The cylin-der head and intake manifold are made of alu-minum and are easily nicked or gouged. Don'tdamage the gasket surfaces or a leak mayresult after the work is complete. Gasketremoval solvents are available from auto partsstores and may prove helpful.13 On 2.0L engines, remove the 0-ring sealgaskets on the intake and throttle body ports(see illustration). Caution: The intake mani-fold is made of plastic and can be easily dam -

aged, don't scrape too hard when removingany dirt or residue. Examine the intake mani-fold for evidence of cracks and other dam-age. Replace if any are found.14 Using a straightedge and feeler gauge,check the intake manifold mating surface forwarpage. Check the intake manifold surfaceon the cylinder head also. If the warpage onany surface exceeds the limits listed in thisChapter's Specifications, the intake manifoldand/or cylinder head must be replaced orresurfaced by an automotive machine shop.

InstallationRefer to illustrations 4.15a and 4.15bNote: On 2.0L engines whenever the intakemanifold is removed, the manufacturer rec-ommends using new bolts and washers forinstallation.15 Install the intake manifold, using a newgasket or 0-rings as applicable. Tighten thebolts in three stages, in the sequence shown(see illustrations), to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications.16 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal.

5 Exhaust manifold - removal,inspection and installation

Warning: Allow the engine to cool completelybefore beginning this procedure.

RemovalRefer to illustrations 5.3, 5.4, 5.5 and 5.61 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Set the parking brake and block the rearwheels. Raise the front of the vehicle andsupport it securely on jackstands.3 Working under the vehicle, apply pene-trating oil to the exhaust pipe-to-manifoldfasteners to make removal easier. Removethe fasteners securing the exhaust pipe to theexhaust manifold and separate them (seeillustration). Remove the seal ring (2.0L) orgasket (2.4L) as applicable.4 Disconnect the wiring harness from theupstream oxygen sensor (see illustration).5 Remove the bolts that secure the heatshield to the exhaust manifold and removethe heat shield (see illustration).

4.13 On 2.0L engines, remove the 0-ring seal gaskets (arrows) onthe throttle body and intake ports

4.15a Intake manifold bolt tightening sequence (2.0L engine)

Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-7

4.15b Intake manifold bolt tightening sequence (2.4L engine) 5.3 Using a box wrench on the nuts and a socket on the bolt,remove the shoulder bolts, springs and nuts securing

the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold

5.4 Follow the harness from the upstreamoxygen sensor (arrow) and disconnect

it at the connector

6 Remove the exhaust manifold mountingbolts and remove the exhaust manifold (seeillustration). Note: The exhaust pipe may haveto be removed from the vehicle to facilitatemanifold removal (see Chapter 4 if necessary).

Inspection7 Using a wire brush, clean the exhaustmanifold bolts, replacing any that exhibitthread damage.

8 Using a scraper, remove all traces ofgasket material from the exhaust flange mat-ing surfaces and inspect them for wear andcracks. Caution: When removing gasketmaterial, be very careful not to scratch orgouge the sealing surface. Any damage to thesurface may a leak after reassembly. Gasketremoval solvents are available from auto partsstores and may prove helpful.9 Using a straightedge and feeler gauge,check the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder headmating surface for warpage. Check the sur-face on the cylinder head also. If the warpageexceeds the limits listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications, the exhaust manifold and/orcylinder head must be replaced or resurfacedby an automotive machine shop.

Installation10 Apply Loctite No. 271 to the mountingbolt threads prior to installation.11 Install the new gasket (use no sealant),manifold and bolts. Tighten the bolts in threestages, working from the center out, to thetorque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.12 The remaining installation steps are the

reverse of removal. Install a new gasket orseal ring (as applicable) between the exhaustmanifold and exhaust pipe.13 Run the engine and check for exhaustleaks.

6 Timing belt - removal, inspectionand installation

Caution: If the timing belt failed with theengine operating, damage to the valves mayhave occurred. Perform an engine compres-sion check after belt replacement to deter-mine if any valve damage is present.

RemovalRefer to illustrations 6.4, 6.5, 6.8a, 6.8b, 6.9a,6.9b, 6.11 and 6.12Caution: Do not turn the crankshaft orcamshaft(s) after the timing belt has beenremoved, as this will damage the valves fromcontact with the pistons. Do not try to turnthe crankshaft with the camshaft(s) sprocketbolt(s) and do not rotate the crankshaft coun-terclockwise.

2A

5.5 Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield mounting bolts(arrows) and remove the heat shield

5.6 Remove the exhaust manifold mounting bolts (arrows) andseparate the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head

2A-8 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines

1 Position the number one piston at TopDead Center (see Chapter 2C).2 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).3 Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter 1).4 Loosen the large bolt in the center of thecrankshaft damper pulley. It might be verytight, to break it loose insert a large screw-driver or bar through the opening in the pulleyto keep the pulley stationary and loosen thebolt with a socket and breaker bar (see illus-tration).5 Install a 3-jaw puller onto the damperpulley and remove the pulley from thecrankshaft (see illustration). Use the properinsert to keep the puller from damaging thecrankshaft bolt threads. If the pulley is diffi-cult to remove, tap the center bolt of thepuller with a brass mallet to break it loose.Caution: Do not use a puller that has jawswhich grip the outer diameter of the damperas the damper and hub may separate. Useonly the type shown in the illustration.6 After removing the crankshaft pulley,reinstall the crankshaft bolt using an appro-priate spacer (this will enable you to turn thecrankshaft later).7 Remove the right (passenger side)engine mount and the mounting bracket fromthe engine (see Section 17). Note: Make surethe engine is supported with a floor jackplaced under the oil pan. Place a wood blockon the jack head to prevent the floor jack fromdenting or damaging the oil pan.8 Remove the timing belt outer cover(s)(see illustrations).9 Make sure the camshaft sprocket(s) andcrankshaft timing marks align before remov -

6.4 Insert a large screwdriver or barthrough the opening in the crankshaftpulley and wedge it against the engine

block, then loosen the bolt with asocket and breaker bar

ing the timing belt (see illustrations). If nec-essary, align the timing marks by rotating thecrankshaft - clockwise only! Note: If you planto reuse the timing belt, paint an arrow on itto indicate the direction of rotation (clock-wise).10 Two different types of timing belt ten-sioners were incorporated on these engines,hydraulic and mechanical. The hydraulictensioner is easily recognizable by the sealedhydraulic unit which maintains constant pres-sure on the timing belt tensioner pulley. Themechanical type has a built-in spring insidethe pulley which supplies clockwise tensionto the belt.11 On engines equipped with a hydraulictensioner, loosen, then remove the timing

6.5 Install a 3-jaw puller onto the damperpulley, position the center post of thepuller on the crankshaft end (use the

proper insert to keep from damaging thecrankshaft threads), and remove the

pulley from the crankshaft

belt tensioner mounting bolts (see illustra-tion) and remove the tensioner. Note: Thetensioner piston will extend when the assem-bly is removed.12 On engines equipped with a mechanicaltensioner, insert an 8 mm (2.0L engine)or 6 mm (2.4L engine) Allen wrench in thehexagon fitting in the tensioner pulley. Insertthe long end of a 3 mm Allen wrench (or 1/8inch drill bit) into the small hole on the pulley.While applying light pressure to the Allenwrench or drill bit, rotate the tensioner pulleycounterclockwise until the Allen wrench ordrill bit slides into the locking hole (see illus-tration).

UPPER TIMING BOLTCOVER FASTENERS 1

LOWER TIMINGBELT COVERFASTENERS

- INDICATES RETAININGCLIP LOCATION

6.8a Remove the two lower bolts and upper clip retaining theti ming belt outer cover to the engine (2.0L SOHC engine)

6.8b Timing belt outer cover fastener locations (2.4L engine)

Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-9

6.9a Before removing the timing belt, make sure the camshaftsprocket and crankshaft timing marks align with their respective

marks - rotate the engine (clockwise only as viewed from thecrankshaft end) as required to align both sets of timing

marks (2.0L engine timing marks)

CAMSHAFT TIMING-MARKS

6.9b 2.4L engine timing marks - The crankshaft sprocket timingmark is on the trailing edge of the sprocket tooth

TRAILINGEDGE OF

SPROCKETTOOTH

CRANKSHAFT TDCMARKS

2A

13 Carefully slip the timing belt off thesprockets and set it aside. If you plan toreuse the timing belt, store it in a plastic bag -do not allow the belt to come in contact withany type of oil or water as this will greatlyshorten belt life.14 If it's necessary to remove the camshaftsprocket(s), and/or timing belt rear cover (forcamshaft seal replacement, see Section 8).

InspectionRefer to illustration 6.1815 Inspect the crankshaft front oil seal forleaks and replace it if necessary (see Sec-tion 7)..16 Inspect the water pump for evidence ofleakage (usually indicated by a trail of wet ordried coolant). Check the pulley for excessiveradial play and bearing roughness. Replace if

necessary (see Chapter 3).17 Rotate the tensioner pulley and idler pul-ley (2.4L engines) by hand and move themside-to-side to detect bearing roughness andexcess play. Visually inspect all timing beltsprockets for any signs of damage or wear.Replace parts as necessary.18 Inspect the timing belt for cracks, sepa-ration, wear, missing teeth and oil contamina-tion (see illustration). Replace the belt if it's

6.11 Loosen, then remove the timing belt hydraulic tensionermounting bolts (arrows) and remove the tensioner

(2.0L engine shown)

ALLENWRENCH

6.12 To relieve the timing belt tension on mechanical typetensioners, place the appropriate size Allen wrench in the pulley

and apply torque in a counterclockwise direction until theretaining pin holes align and insert a 3mm Allen wrench or

1/8 inch drill bit to hold the pulley in place

2A-10 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines

in questionable condition or the enginemileage is close to that referenced in theMaintenance Schedule (see Chapter 1).19 If equipped, check the hydraulic ten-sioner for leaks or any other obvious damage,replace if necessary.

Installation2.0L engineRefer to illustrations 6.21a, 6.2 lb and 6.21c20 Confirm that the camshaft sprocket tim-ing marks are aligned (see illustration 6.9a).Reposition as required.21 Position the crankshaft timing beltsprocket as follows (see illustrations):

a) Initially align the TDC mark on thesprocket with the arrow on the oil pumphousing.

b) Then back it off counterclockwise 3teeth BTDC.

c) Rotate the crankshaft sprocket clock-wise to 1/2-tooth before the arrow markon the oil pump housing.

22 Install the timing belt as follows; firstplace the belt onto the crankshaft sprocket,maintaining tension on the belt, wrap itaround the water pump sprocket, camshaftsprocket and the tensioner pulley.23 To take the slack out of the timing belt,rotate the crankshaft timing sprocket clock-wise to align the timing marks (TDC), makesure the camshaft sprocket timing marksremain aligned.

2.4L engineRefer to illustration 6.2524 Confirm that the timing marks on thecamshaft sprockets are aligned (see illustra-tion 6.9b).25 Rotate the exhaust camshaft sprocketclockwise so the timing mark is 1/2 toothbelow the intake camshaft timing mark asshown (see illustration).26 Next, align the crankshaft sprocket tim-ing mark with the arrow mark on the oil pumphousing (see illustration 6.9b).

6.18 Carefully inspect the timing belt -bending it backwards will often make

wear or damage more apparent

27 Install the timing belt as follows; firstplace the belt onto the crankshaft sprocket,maintaining tension on the belt, wrap itaround the water pump sprocket, idler pulley,camshaft sprockets and the tensioner pulley.To take up the belt slack, rotate the exhaustcamshaft counterclockwise until the timingmarks on both sprockets align.

Engines with a mechanicaltensioner28 On engines equipped with a mechanicaltensioner, pull the retaining pin from the ten-sioner pulley.29 Using the bolt in the center of thecrankshaft sprocket, turn the crankshaftclockwise two complete revolutions. Cau-tion: If you feel resistance while turning thecrankshaft - STOP, the valves may be hittingthe pistons from incorrect valve timing. Stopand re-check the valve timing. Note: Thecamshaft and crankshaft sprocket marks willalign every two revolutions of the crankshaft.30 Recheck the alignment of the timingmarks (see illustrations 6.9a and 6.9b). Ifthe marks do not align properly, loosen thetensioner, slip the belt off the camshaft

6.21a On 2.0L engines, use a box-endwrench or socket to rotate the crankshaftti ming sprocket until the TDC mark on thesprocket is aligned with the arrow on the

oil pump housing (arrow) .. .

6.21b . . . then back it offcounterclockwise 3 teeth BTDC (arrows)

sprocket, realign the marks, reinstall the belt,and check the alignment again.31 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal. Tighten the crankshaftpulley bolt to the torque listed in this Chap-ter's Specifications. Start the engine androad test the vehicle.

CAMSHAFTSPROCKET EXHAUST

CAMSHAFTSPROCKET INTAKE

6.21c Rotate the crankshaft timing sprocket clockwiseto 1/2-tooth BTDC (arrows)

6.25 Before installing the timing belt, rotate the exhaustcamshaft sprocket clockwise so the timing mark is 1/2 tooth

below the timing mark on the intake camshaft sprocket

Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-11

6.32a The hydraulic tensioner piston (arrow) must be compressedinto the tensioner housing prior to installation

6.32b Place the tensioner in a vise with the hole (arrow) facing up.Compress the piston with the vise and insert a 5/64 inch Allen

wrench or drill bit through the hole to keep the pistonretracted for installation

2AEngines with a hydraulic tensionerRefer to illustrations 6.32a, 6.32b and 6.3432 On engines equipped with a hydraulictensioner, the piston must be compressedinto the tensioner housing prior to installation.Place the tensioner in a vise with the pinholes facing up. Slowly compress the ten-sioner, then install a 5/64-inch Allen wrenchor drill bit through the body to retain the pis-ton in this position (see illustrations).Remove the tensioner from the vise.33 Install the tensioner assembly - exceptdon't tighten the bolts at this time.34 Have an assistant place a torquewrench on the center bolt of the tensionerpulley and apply 250 in-lbs of torque in aclockwise direction. With the torque appliedto the tensioner pulley, move the tensioner upagainst the tensioner pulley bracket andtighten the tensioner bolts to the torque listedin this Chapter's Specifications (see illustra-tion). Remove the torque wrench.35 Pull the Allen wrench or drill bit from the

tensioner. The timing belt tension is correctwhen the pin can be withdrawn and rein-serted easily. Verify that the timing marks onthe camshaft sprocket(s) and crankshaftsprocket are still aligned at TDC.36 Using the bolt in the center of thecrankshaft sprocket, turn the crankshaftclockwise two complete revolutions. Cau-tion: If you feel resistance while turning thecrankshaft - STOP, the valves may be hittingthe pistons from incorrect valve timing. Stopand re-check the valve timing. Note: Thecamshaft and crankshaft sprocket marks willalign every two revolutions of the crankshaft.Recheck the alignment of the timing marks(see illustrations 6.9a and 6.9b). If themarks do not align properly, loosen the ten-sioner, slip the belt off the camshaftsprocket(s), realign the marks, reinstall thebelt, and check the alignment again.37 After crankshaft rotation, recheck theti ming belt tension by inserting the retainingpin (5/64-inch Allen wrench or drill bit) backinto the tensioner. If the retaining pin cannot

be inserted and withdrawn freely, readjust thetiming belt tension and repeat Steps 34through 37.38 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal. Tighten the crankshaftpulley bolt to the torque listed in this Chap-ter's Specifications.39 Start the engine and road test the vehi-cle.

7 Crankshaft front oil seal -replacement

Refer to illustrations 7.2, 7.3, 7.5 and 7.6Caution: Do not rotate the camshaft(s) orcrankshaft when the timing belt is removed ordamage to the engine may occur.1 Remove the timing belt (see Section 6).2 Remove the crankshaft timing beltsprocket from the crankshaft with a bolt-typegear puller (see illustration). Remove theWoodruff key from the crankshaft keyway.

LOCKING PININSTALLEDINTO THE

TENSIONER

6.34 Using a torque wrench on the tensioner pulley bolt, apply 250inch-lbs of torque as shown, move the hydraulic tensioner upagainst the tensioner pulley bracket and tighten the tensioner

mounting bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications

7.2 Attach a bolt-type gear puller to the crankshaft sprocket andremove the sprocket from the crankshaft

2A-12 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines

7.3 Using a screwdriver, very carefully prythe front crankshaft seal from it's bore

8.4a Remove the hydraulic tensionerpulley/plate assembly mounting

bolts (arrows) .. .

3 Wrap the tip of a small screwdriver withtape. Working from below the right innerfender, use the screwdriver to carefully prythe seal out of its bore (see illustration).Take care to prevent damaging the oil pumpassembly, the crankshaft and the seal bore.4 Thoroughly clean and inspect the sealbore and sealing surface on the crankshaft.Minor imperfections can be removed withemery cloth. If there is a groove worn in thecrankshaft sealing surface (from contact with

8.8 Carefully pry the camshaft seal out ofthe bore - DO NOT nick or scratch the

camshaft or seal bore

7.5 Lubricate the new front crankshaftseal with engine oil and using a hammerand socket, drive the seal into the boreuntil it's flush with the oil pump housing

8.4b . . . and then remove the pulley andbracket assembly (2.0L engine)

the seal), installing a new seal will probablynot stop the leak.5 Lubricate the new seal with engine oiland using a hammer and the appropriate sizesocket, drive the seal into the bore until it'sflush with the oil pump housing. (see illustra-tion).6 Install the Woodruff key and thecrankshaft timing belt sprocket with the wordFRONT facing out onto the crankshaft (seeillustration).7 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal. Tighten the crankshaftpulley bolt to the torque listed in this Chap-ter's Specifications.8 Start the engine and check for oil leaks.

8 Camshaft oil seal - replacement

Refer to illustrations 8.4a, 8.4b, 8.7, 8.8,8.10a, 8.10b and 8.12Caution: Do not rotate the camshaft(s) orcrankshaft when the timing belt is removed ordamage to the engine may occur.1 Remove the timing belt (see Section 6).2 Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwiseuntil the crankshaft sprocket is three teethBTDC (see illustration 6.21b). This will pre-vent engine damage if the camshaft sprocketis inadvertently rotated during sprocket bolt

7.6 Position the crankshaft sprocket withthe word FRONT (arrow) facing out and

install it onto the crankshaft

8.7 Remove the rear timing belt cover

removal.3 While holding the camshaft sprocket,remove the camshaft sprocket bolt. Then,using two large screwdrivers, lever thesprocket off the camshaft. Note: To hold thecamshaft/sprocket while loosening the bolt, astrap-type damper/pulley holder tool is rec-ommended and is available at most autoparts stores. If the strap wrench is unavail-able, remove the valve cover to access thewrenching flats on the camshaft (2.4Lengines only).4 On 2.0L engines, remove the 2 boltssecuring the tensioner pulley bracket to theengine block and remove the pulley andbracket assembly (see illustrations). Do notattempt to loosen the center bolt on the pul-ley or the pulley pivot bolt, remove the pulleyand bracket together.5 On 2.4L engines, remove the idler pul-ley.6 On 2.0L engines equipped with ahydraulic timing belt tensioner, remove thetensioner pulley.7 Remove the bolts securing the rearcover to the engine block and cylinder head.Remove the rear cover (see illustration).8 Carefully pry out the camshaft oil sealusing a small screwdriver (see illustration).Don't scratch the bore or damage thecamshaft in the process (if the camshaft isdamaged, the new seal will end up leaking).

Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-13

8.10a Using a hammer and socket, gentlytap the new seal into place with the

spring side facing inward

9 Clean the bore and coat the outer edgeof the new seal with engine oil or multi-pur-

pose grease. Also lubricate the seal lip.10 Using a socket with an outside diameterslightly smaller than the outside diameter ofthe seal and a hammer (see illustration),carefully drive the new seal into the cylinderhead until it's flush with the face of the cylin-der head. If a socket isn't available, a shortsection of pipe will also work. Note: If enginelocation makes it difficult to use a hammer toinstall the camshaft seal, fabricate a sealinstallation tool from a piece of pipe cut to theappropriate length, a bolt and a large washer(see illustration). Place the section of pipeover the seal and thread the bolt into thecamshaft. The seal can now be pressed intothe bore by tightening the bolt.11 Install the rear timing belt cover, ten-sioner pulley/bracket, idler pulley and ten-sioner pulley as applicable.12 Install the camshaft sprocket, aligningthe pin in the camshaft with the hole in thesprocket (see illustration). Use an appropri-ate tool to hold the camshaft sprocket whiletightening the sprocket bolt to the torqueli sted in this Chapter's Specifications.13 Reinstall the timing belt (see Section 6).14 Run the engine and check for oil leaks.

8.10b If space is limited and you can't usea hammer and socket to install the seal, aseal installer can be made from a sectionof pipe (of appropriate diameter), a bolt

and washer. Place the pipe over theseal and press it into place by

tightening the bolt

9 Rocker arm and hydraulic valvelash adjuster - removal,inspection and installation

Removal2.0L engineRefer to illustration 9.61 Position the number one piston at TopDead Center (see Chapter 2C).2 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).3 Remove the valve cover (see Section 3).4 Prior to removing the rocker arm shafts,mark the front shaft (intake manifold side) asthe intake rocker arm shaft and the rear shaft(exhaust manifold side) as the exhaust. Cau-tion: Do not interchange the rocker arms ontoa different shaft as this could lead to prema-ture wear.5 Loosen the rocker arm shaft bolts 1/4-

8.12 When installing a camshaft sprocket,make sure the pin in the camshaft is

aligned with the hole in thesprocket (arrows)

turn at a time each, until the valve springpressure is relieved, in the reverse order ofthe tightening sequence (see illustration9.20). Completely loosen the bolts, but donot remove them, since leaving them in placewill prevent the assembly from falling apartwhen it is lifted off the cylinder head.6 Lift the rocker arms and shaft assem-blies from the cylinder head and set them onthe workbench (see illustration). Note: Thehydraulic valve lash adjusters may becomedislodged from the rocker arms during shaftremoval. If required, secure the adjusters inplace using electrical tape.7 Disassemble the rocker arm shaft com-ponents. Caution: Before disassembly, markthe rocker arm shafts, rocker arms, shaftretainers and plastic shaft spacers (intakeonly) so all the parts can be reassembled intheir original locations. To keep the rockerarms and related parts in order, it's a goodidea to remove them and put them onto twolengths of wire (such as unbent coat hangers)in the same order as they're removed, mark-ing each wire (which simulates the rockershaft) as to which end would be the front ofthe engine.

2A

9.6 Intake and exhaust rocker arms and shaft assemblies(2.0L engine)

9.9 On 2.4L engines, once the camshafts have been removed, therocker arms and hydraulic valve lash adjusters (located below the

rocker arm can be removed) - be sure to keep the rocker armsand lash adjusters in order so they can be returned

to their original locations

o —

2A-14 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines

2.4L engineRefer to illustration 9.98 Remove both camshafts (see Sec-tion 10).9 Once the camshafts have beenremoved, the rocker arms (a.k.a. cam follow-ers) can be lifted off (see illustration). Cau-tion: Each rocker arm and valve lash adjustermust be placed back in it's original location,so mark them or place them in a marked con-tainer (such as an egg carton or cupcake tray)so they won't get mixed up.10 Remove the rocker arms and hydraulicvalve lash adjusters from the cylinder head.

Inspection2.0L engineRefer to illustration 9.11Note: The valve lash adjuster is an integralpart of each rocker arm and cannot bereplaced separately.11 Visually check the rocker arms for wear(see illustration). Replace them if evidenceof wear or damage is found.12 Inspect each lash adjuster carefully forsigns of wear and damage, particularly on thesurface that contacts the valve tip. Since thelash adjusters frequently become clogged,we recommend replacing the rocker arm/lashadjuster assembly if you're concerned abouttheir condition or if the engine is exhibitingvalve "tapping" noises.

13 Check all the rocker shaft components.Look for worn or scored shafts, etc. andreplace any parts found to be damaged orworn excessively.

2.4L engineRefer to illustration 9.1414 Visually check the rocker arm tip, rollerand lash adjuster pocket for wear (see illus-tration). Replace them if evidence of wear ordamage is found.15 Inspect each adjuster carefully for signsof wear and damage, particularly on the balltip that contacts the rocker arm. Since thelash adjusters frequently become clogged,we recommend replacing them if you're con-cerned about their condition or if the engineis exhibiting valve "tapping" noises.

Installation2.0L engineRefer to illustrations 9.18, 9.19 and 9.2016 Prior to installation, the lash adjustersmust be partially full of engine oil - indicatedby little or no plunger action when theadjuster is depressed. If there's excessiveplunger travel, place the rocker arm assemblyinto clean engine oil and pump the plungeruntil the plunger travel is eliminated. Note: Ifthe plunger still travels within the rocker armwhen full of oil it's defective and the rockerarm assembly must be replaced.

9.11 2.0L engine rocker arm/valve lashadjuster assembly (intake rocker

arm shown)

1 Hydraulic valve lash adjuster2 Rocker shaft bore3 Roller

17 When assembling the rocker arms onthe shaft assembly, make sure they're rein-stalled in their original locations.18 On the intake rocker arm shaft, makesure the plastic spacers are installed on theshaft in the correct locations (see illustra-tion).19 Install the rocker arm assemblies withthe notch in each rocker arm shaft located atthe timing belt end of the engine and facingUP (see illustration).

9.14 2.4L engine rocker arm 9.18 Intake rocker arm plastic spacer locations (arrows)(2.0L engine)

TIP

9.20 Rocker arm shaft bolt tightening sequence (2.0L engine)4

9.19 Both rocker arm shafts must be installed with the notches(arrows) facing UP and at the timing belt end of the engine

Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-15

REMOVE OUTSIDE BEARING CAPS FIRST

10.7 2.4L engine camshaft bearing cap location numbers - theymust be reinstalled in their original locations

10.8 Remove the outside bearing caps first, then loosen theremaining bearing cap bolts in the sequence shown 1/4 turn at a

ti me until they can be unscrewed by hand (2.4L engine)

20 Tighten the rocker arm bolts insequence shown (see illustration) using 3steps to reach the torque listed in this Chap-ter's Specifications.21 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal. Run the engine andcheck for oil leaks and proper operation.22 When re-starting the engine after replac-ing the rocker arm/lash adjusters, theadjusters will normally make "tapping"noises. After warm-up, slowly raise the speedof the engine from idle to 3,000 rpm and backto idle over a one minute period. If theadjuster(s) do not become silent, replace thedefective rocker arm/lash adjuster assembly.

2.4L engine23 Prior to installation, the lash adjustersmust be partially full of engine oil - indicatedby little or no plunger action when theadjuster is depressed. If there's excessiveplunger travel, place the rocker arm assemblyinto clean engine oil and pump the plungeruntil the plunger travel is eliminated. Note: Ifthe plunger still travels within the rocker armwhen full of oil it's defective and the rockerarm assembly must be replaced.

10.12 Measure the camshaft bearingjournal diameters with a micrometer and

compare the measurements to thedimensions given in this Chapter's

Specifications

24 Install the hydraulic lash adjusters androcker arms back in their proper locations onthe cylinder head.25 Install the camshafts (see Section 10).26 When re-starting the engine after replac-ing the rocker arm/lash adjusters, theadjusters will normally make "tapping"noises. After warm-up, slowly raise the speedof the engine from idle to 3,000 rpm and backto idle over a one minute period. If theadjuster(s) do not become silent, replace thedefective lash adjuster assembly.

10 Camshaft(s) - removal,inspection and installation

Removal2.0L engineNote: The camshaft cannot be removed withthe cylinder head installed in the vehicle.1 Remove the cylinder head (see Sec-tion 12).2 Remove the camshaft position sensor(see Chapter 6).3 Carefully withdraw the camshaft fromthe opening in the rear of the cylinder head.Caution: Don't damage the camshaft lobesor bearing journals during removal and instal-lation through the opening in the cylinderhead.4 Remove the camshaft front seal fromthe cylinder head.

2.4L engineRefer to illustrations 10.7 and 10.85 Remove the timing belt (see Section 6).6 Remove the camshaft sprockets and therear timing belt cover (see section 8).7 The camshaft bearing caps are identi-fied with their numbered location in the cylin-der head (see illustration).8 Remove the outside bearing caps ateach end of the camshafts first. Remove theremaining camshaft bearing caps, looseningthe bolts a little at a time to prevent distortingthe camshaft(s) by loosening the caps in the

sequence shown (see illustration). Once thebearing caps have all been loosened enoughfor removal, they may still be difficult toremove. Using the bearing cap bolts for extraleverage, move the cap back and forth toloosen the cap from the cylinder head. If theyare still difficult to remove you can tap themgently with a soft face mallet so they can belifted off. Caution: Store them in order sothey can be returned to their original loca-tions, with the same side facing forward.9 Carefully lift the camshafts out of thecylinder head. Mark the camshafts INTAKEand EXHAUST, they cannot be mixed-up.10 Remove the front seal from eachcamshaft. Note: Now is a good time toinspect the rocker arms and lash adjusters(see Section 9).

InspectionRefer to illustration 10.1211 Thoroughly clean the camshaft(s) andthe gasket surface. Visually inspect thecamshaft for wear and/or damage to the lobesurfaces, bearing journals and seal contactsurfaces. Visually inspect the camshaft bear-ing surfaces in the cylinder head and bearingcaps (2.4L engines) for scoring and otherdamage.12 Measure the camshaft bearing journaldiameters (see illustration). Measure theinside diameter of the camshaft bearing sur-faces in the cylinder head, using a telescop-ing gauge (on 2.4L engines, temporarilyinstall the bearing caps). Subtract the journalmeasurement from the bearing measurementto obtain the camshaft bearing oil clearance.Compare this clearance with the value listedin this Chapter's Specifications. Replaceworn components as required.13 Replace the camshaft if it fails any of theabove inspections. Note: If the lobes areworn, replace the rocker arms and lashadjusters along with the camshaft. Cylinderhead replacement may be necessary if thecamshaft bearing surfaces in the head aredamaged or excessively worn.14 Clean and inspect the cylinder head asdescribed in Part C of this Chapter.

2A

2A-16 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines

10.18 Measure the camshaft endplay with a dial indicatorpositioned on the sprocket end of the camshaft as shown

10.20 Prior to installing the camshaft, lubricate the bearingjournals, thrust surfaces and lobes with assembly

lube or clean engine oil

Camshaft endplay measurementRefer to illustration 10.1815 Lubricate the camshaft(s) and cylinderhead bearing journals with clean engine oil.16 On 2.0L engines, carefully insert thecamshaft into the cylinder head and installthe camshaft position sensor. Tighten thebolts to the torque listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications.17 On 2.4L engines, place the camshaft init's respective place in the cylinder head.Note: Do not install the rocker arms for thischeck. Install the rear bearing cap and tightenthe bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications.18 Install a dial indicator set up on thecylinder head and place the indicator tip onthe camshaft at the sprocket end (see illus-tration).19 Using a screwdriver, carefully pry thecamshaft fully to the rear (toward thecamshaft position sensor) until it stops. Zerothe dial indicator and pry the camshaft fully tothe front (toward the dial indicator end). Theamount of indicator travel is the camshaftendplay. Compare the endplay measurementwith the tolerance given in this Chapter'sSpecification Section. If the endplay is exces -

sive, check the camshaft and cylinder headbearing journals for wear and replace as nec-essary.

Installation2.0L engineRefer to illustration 10.2020 Very carefully clean the camshaft andbearing journals. Liberally coat the journals,lobes and thrust portions of the camshaftwith assembly lube or clean engine oil (seeillustration).21 Carefully install the camshaft in thecylinder head.22 Install a new camshaft oil seal (see Sec-tion 8).23 Install the camshaft position sensor (seeChapter 6).24 Install the cylinder head (see Section 12).25 Install the rocker arm shaft assembly(see Section 9).

2.4L engineRefer to illustrations 10.29 and 10.3026 If removed, install the valve lashadjusters and rocker arms (see Section 9).27 Clean the camshaft and bearing journalsand caps. Liberally coat the journals, lobes

and thrust portions of the camshaft withassembly lube or engine oil (see illustration10.20).28 Carefully install the camshafts in thecylinder head in their correct location. Tem-porarily install the camshaft sprockets androtate the camshafts so their timing marksalign (see illustration 6.9b). Make sure thecrankshaft is positioned with the crankshaftsprocket timing mark at three teeth BTDC(see illustration 6.21b). Caution: If the pis-tons are at TDC when tightening the camshaftbearing caps, damage to the engine mayoccur.29 Install the bearing caps, except for theNo. 1 and No. 6 (left side) end caps (seeillustration 10.7). Tighten the bolts in 3 pro-gressive steps in the sequence shown to thetorque listed in this Chapter's Specifications(see illustration).30 Apply a small bead of anaerobic sealant(approximately 1/8 inch) to the No. 1 and No.6 (left side) bearing caps (see illustration).Install the bearing caps and tighten the boltsto the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifi-cations.31 Install new camshaft oil seals (see Sec-tion 8).

FRONT CAM CAP (#1L/1R)

10.29 Tighten the camshaft bearing caps progressing in 3 equalsteps in the sequence shown until the torque value given in this

Chapter's Specifications has been reached (2.4L engine)10.30 Apply a small bead of anaerobic sealant to the No. 1 and

left side No. 6 bearing caps as shown

1.0 mm (0.039 in.)DIAMETER BEAD OFMOPAR GASKET MAKER

Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-17

11.4 This is what the air hose adapter thatthreads into the spark plug hole looks

li ke - they're usually available fromauto parts stores

11.7 Use needle-nose pliers (shown) or asmall magnet to remove the valve keepers

- be careful not to drop them down intothe engine!

11.8 Remove the valve guide seal/springseat assembly with a pair of pliers

32 Install the timing belt, covers and relatedcomponents (see Section 6).33 Run the engine while checking for oilleaks.

11 Valve springs, retainers and seals- replacement

Refer to illustrations 11.4, 11.7, 11.8, 11.13and 11.15Note: Broken valve springs and defectivevalve stem seals can be replaced withoutremoving the cylinder heads. Two specialtools and a compressed air source are nor-mally required to perform this operation, soread through this Section carefully and rent orbuy the tools before attempting the job.1 Remove the valve cover (see Section 3).2 Remove the spark plug from the cylinderwhich has the defective component. If all ofthe valve stem seals are being replaced, all ofthe spark plugs should be removed.3 Turn the crankshaft until the piston inthe affected cylinder is at top dead center onthe compression stroke (refer to Chapter 2C).If you're replacing all of the valve stem seals,begin with cylinder number one and work onthe valves for one cylinder at a time. Movefrom cylinder-to-cylinder following the firingorder sequence (see this Chapter's Specifi-cations).4 Thread an adapter into the spark plughole (see illustration) and connect an airhose from a compressed air source to it.Most auto parts stores can supply the airhose adapter. Note: Many cylinder compres-sion gauges utilize a screw-in fitting that maywork with your air hose quick-disconnect fit-ting. On 2.0L engines, the spark plug tubesmay need to be removed to facilitate adapterinstallation.5 Remove the rocker arms (see Section 9).6 Apply compressed air to the cylinder.Warning: The piston may be forced down bycompressed air, causing the crankshaft toturn suddenly. If the wrench used when posi-tioning the number one piston at TDC is stillattached to the crankshaft bolt, it could cause

damage or injury when the crankshaft moves.7 Stuff clean shop rags into the cylinderhead holes above and below the valves toprevent parts and tools from falling into theengine, then use a valve spring compressorto compress the spring. Remove the keeperswith small needle-nose pliers or a magnet(see illustration).8 Remove the spring retainer and valvespring, then remove the valve guideseal/spring seat assembly (see illustration).Caution: If air pressure fails to hold the valvein the closed position during this operation,the valve face and/or seat is probably dam-aged. If so, the cylinder head will have to beremoved for additional repair operations.9 Wrap a rubber band or tape around thetop of the valve stem so the valve won't fallinto the combustion chamber, then releasethe air pressure.10 Inspect the valve stem for damage.Rotate the valve in the guide and check theend for eccentric movement, which wouldindicate that the valve is bent and needs tobe replaced.11 Move the valve up-and-down in theguide and make sure it doesn't bind. If thevalve stem binds, either the valve is bent orthe guide is damaged. In either case, the

head will have to be removed for repair.12 Pull up on the valve stem to close thevalve, reapply air pressure to the cylinder toretain the valve in the closed position, thenremove the tape or rubber band from thevalve stem.13 Lubricate the valve stem with engine oiland install a new valve guide seal/spring seatassembly. Tap into place with deep socket(see illustration).14 Install the spring in position over thevalve.15 Install the valve spring retainer. Com-press the valve spring and carefully positionthe keepers in the groove. Apply a small dabof grease to the inside of each keeper to holdit in place if necessary (see illustration).16 Remove the pressure from the springtool and make sure the keepers are seated.17 Disconnect the air hose and remove theadapter from the spark plug hole.18 If applicable, install the spark plug tubes(2.0L engines only, see Section 3).19 Install the rocker arms (see Section 9).20 Install the spark plug(s) and connect thewire(s).21 Install the valve cover (see Section 3).22 Start and run the engine, then check foroil leaks and unusual sounds coming fromthe valve cover area.

11.13 Gently tap the new seal into placewith a hammer and a deep socket

11.15 Apply a small dab of grease to eachkeeper before installation to hold it in

place on the valve stem until thespring is released

2A

2A-18 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines

12.4 Cover the intake ports with duct tape (arrow) tokeep out debris before removing the cylinder head

(2.0L engine shown)

12.15a Carefully lift the cylinder head straight up and place thehead on wood blocks to prevent damage to the sealing surfaces

(2.0L engine shown)

12 Cylinder head - removal andinstallation

Caution: Allow the engine to cool completelybefore beginning this procedure.

RemovalRefer to illustrations 12.4, 12.15a, 12.15b and12.161 Position the number one piston at TopDead Center (see Chapter 2C).2 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).3 Drain the cooling system and removethe spark plugs (see Chapter 1).4 Remove the intake manifold (see Sec-tion 4). Cover the intake ports on the manifoldand cylinder head with duct tape to keep outforeign debris and contamination (see illus-tration).

5 Remove the bolts securing the powersteering reservoir and hoses to the cylinderhead and position them out of the way (seeChapter 10 if necessary).6 Remove the exhaust manifold (see Sec-tion 5). Note: The exhaust manifold is easierto remove after the cylinder head is removed,if possible leave it attached.7 Disconnect the upper radiator hose fromthe thermostat housing (see Chapter 3 if nec-essary).8 Disconnect the electrical connector fromthe camshaft position sensor (see Chapter 5).9 Remove the timing belt (see Section 6).10 Remove camshaft sprocket(s) and reartiming belt cover (see Section 8).11 On 2.0L engines, remove rocker armshaft assemblies (see Section 9).12 On 2.4L engines, remove the camshafts,rocker arms and valve lash adjusters (seeSection 9).13 Remove the EGR valve from the cylinder

head (see Chapter 6).14 Loosen the cylinder head bolts, 1/4-turnat a time, in the reverse order of the tighten-ing sequence (see illustrations 12.21a or12.21b) until they can be removed by hand.Note: Mark the locations of the differentlength bolts so they can be reinstalled in theiroriginal locations.15 Carefully lift the cylinder head (see illus-tration) straight up and place the head onwood blocks to prevent damage to the seal-ing surfaces. If the head sticks to the engineblock, dislodge it by placing a wood blockagainst the head casting and tapping thewood with a hammer or by prying the headwith a prybar placed carefully on a castingprotrusion (see illustration). Note: Cylinderhead disassembly and inspection proceduresare covered in Chapter 2, Part C. It's also agood idea to have the head checked forwarpage, even if you're just replacing thegasket.

12.15b If the head is stuck to the engine block, dislodge it byplacing a wood block against the head casting and tapping

the wood with a hammer or by prying the head with aprybar placed carefully on a casting protrusion

12.16 Place a precision straightedge along the cylinder head boltthread profile as shown, if any part of the bolt threads are not

on the straightedge, the bolt must be replaced

Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-19

12.21a Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence - 2.0L engine 12.21b Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence - 2.4L engine

16 Remove all traces of old gasket materialfrom the block and head. Caution: The cylin-der head is aluminum, be very careful not togouge the sealing surfaces. Special gasketremoval solvents that soften gaskets andmake removal much easier are available atauto parts stores. When working on theblock, place clean shop rags into the cylin-ders to help keep out debris. Use a vacuumto remove any contamination from theengine. Use a tap of the correct size to chasethe threads in the engine block. Clean andinspect all threaded fasteners for damage.Inspect the cylinder head bolt threads for"necking," where the diameter of threads nar-row due to bolt stretching (see illustration).If any cylinder head bolt exhibits damage ornecking, it must be replaced. Note: If furtherdisassembly of the cylinder head is required,refer to Part C of this Chapter.17 Refer to Part C of this Chapter for clean-ing and inspection of the cylinder head.

InstallationRefer to illustrations 12.21a and 12.21b18 On 2.0L engines, install the camshaft ifremoved (see Section 10).19 Place a new gasket and the cylinderhead in position on the engine block.20 Apply clean engine oil to the cylinderhead bolt threads and install them back intheir original locations (noted in Step 14).21 Tighten the cylinder head bolts in thesequence shown (see illustrations) pro-gressing in 3 stages to the torque listed inthis Chapter's Specifications. After the thirdpass, tighten the bolts in the propersequence, an additional 90-degrees (1/4-turn)more. Note: A torque wrench is not requiredfor the 1/4-turn procedure. Before performingthe final pass, mark the bolts in relation tothe cylinder head and place another mark90-degrees clockwise from the starting mark.22 Install the rocker arms and hydraulic

valve lash adjusters (see Section 9).23 On 2.4L engines, install the rear timingbelt cover, camshafts and camshaft sprock-ets (see Section 10).24 ON 2.0L engines, install the rear timingbelt cover and camshaft sprocket (see Sec-tion 10).25 Install the timing belt (see Section 6).After installation, slowly rotate the crankshaftby hand clockwise through two completerevolutions. Recheck the camshaft timingmarks.26 Reinstall the remaining components inthe reverse order of removal.27 Be sure to refill the cooling system andcheck all fluid levels (see Chapter 1 if neces-sary).28 Start the engine and run it until normaloperating temperature is reached. Check forleaks and proper operation.

2A

13 Oil pan - removal and installation

RemovalRefer to illustrations 13.7, 13.10a, 13.10b,13.11a and 13.11b

1 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands.3 Remove the accessory drivebelt splashshield (see Chapter 1).4 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1).5 Remove the transmission supportbracket.6 Remove the front engine mount andstrut (see Section 17). Note: On 2.4L engines,it may be necessary to remove the enginesupport module, if equipped.7 If equipped, remove the transaxle-to-oilpan structural collar (see illustration).8 On 2.0L engines, remove the transaxleinspection cover.9 On 2.0L engines, equipped with air con-ditioning, remove the oil filter and adapter.

2A-20 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines

13.10a If the oil pan is stuck to the block, tap it with asoft faced mallet to break it loose

13.10b Remove the oil pan from the block - be careful not to spillany residual oil that may be inside

10 Using a criss-cross pattern, loosen andremove the mounting bolts, then lower the oilpan from the vehicle. Note: On modelsequipped with an engine support module (seeSection 17), separate the oil pan from theengine block enough to facilitate oil pumppickup tube removal. If the pan is stuck, tap itwith a soft-face hammer (see illustrations)or place a wood block against the pan andtap the wood block with a hammer. Caution:If you're wedging something between the oilpan and the engine block to separate the two,be extremely careful not to gouge or nick thegasket surface of either part; an oil leak couldresult.11 Remove the oil pump pick-up tube andscreen assembly (see illustration). Removethe 0-ring seal from the oil pick-up tube anddiscard (see illustration). Thoroughly cleanthe tube and screen. On vehicles equippedwith an engine support module, the oil pancan now be removed from the engine.12 Thoroughly clean the sealing surfaceson the oil pan and block. Use a scraper toremove all traces of old gasket material. Gas-ket removal solvents are available at autoparts stores and may prove helpful. Checkthe oil pan sealing surface for distortion.

13.11a Unscrew the bolt (arrow) andremove the oil pump pick-up tube

assembly - clean both the tube andscreen thoroughly and inspectfor damage or foreign debris

Straighten or replace as necessary. Aftercleaning and straightening (if necessary),wipe the gasket surfaces of the pan andblock clean with a rag soaked in lacquer thin-ner or acetone.

13.l lb Removing the 0-ring seal from theoil pump pick-up tube

InstallationRefer to illustrations 13.14 and 13.1613 Install a new 0-ring onto the oil pick-uptube and install it onto the oil pump housing.Tighten the bolt to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications.14 Apply a 1/8-inch bead of RTV sealant atthe cylinder block-to-oil pump assembly joint

13.14 Apply a 1/8-inch bead of RTV sealant to the cylinder block-to-oil pump assembly joint on the oil pan flange

13.16 Front engine mount strut and structural collar boltidentification - 1998 2.4L engine

Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-21

14.5a Remove the oil pump assembly mounting bolts (arrows)and separate the assembly from the engine block

(2.0L engine shown)

14.5b If the pump will not come off by hand, tap it gently with asoft-faced hammer or pry gently on a casting protrusion

2Aat the oil pan flange (see illustration). Installa new oil pan gasket.15 Place the oil pan into position andinstall the bolts finger tight. Working

side-to-sidefrom the center out, tighten the bolts tothe torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica-tions.16 When installing the front engine mountstrut and collar on 1998 2.4L engines, installall bolts hand tight, then tighten the bolts inthe order shown to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications (see illustration).17 On 1997 2.4L and 1998 and later 2.0Lengines, install the oil pan-to-transaxle struc-tural collar and tighten the bolts in threesteps to the torque listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications.18 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal.19 Refill the crankcase with the proper

quantity and grade of oil (see Recommended (see Chapter 5, Section 1).lubricants and fluids Section in Chapter 1). 2 Remove the oil pan and pick-up tube20 Run the engine and check for leaks. assembly (see Section 13).Road test the vehicle and check for leaks 3 Remove the timing belt (see Section 6)again. and crankshaft sprocket (see Section 7).

4 On 2.4L engines, remove the oil filter.5 Remove the bolts and detach the oilpump assembly from the engine (see illustra-tion). Caution: If the pump doesn't come offby hand, tap it gently with a soft-faced ham-mer or pry on a casting boss (see illustration).6 Unscrew the mounting screws andremove the rotor assembly cover from the oilpump housing. Withdraw the inner and outerrotors from the body (see illustrations).Caution: Be very careful with these compo-nents. Close tolerances are critical in creatingthe correct oil pressure. Any nicks or otherdamage will require replacement of the com-plete pump assembly.

14 Oil pump - removal, inspectionand installation

Note: The oil pump pressure relief valve canbe serviced without removing the oil pan andoil pick-up tube.

RemovalRefer to illustrations 14.5a, 14.5b, 14.6a,14.6b, 14.6c, 14.6d, 14.8 and 14.9

1 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower

14.6a Exploded view ofoil pump components

(2.0L engine shown, 2.4Lsimilar - except oil filter

adapter is part of oilpump housing)

2A-22 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines

14.6b Remove the rotor cover mounting screws (arrows) .. . 14.6c . . . and lift off the rotor cover

7 Using a hammer and brass drift, care-fully remove the crankshaft front seal fromthe oil pump housing and discard it.8 Remove the 0-ring seal from the oilpump housing discharge port and discard it(see illustration).9 Disassemble the relief valve assembly,taking note of the way the relief valve piston

is installed. Unscrew the cap bolt and removethe bolt, washer, spring and relief valve (seeillustration).

InspectionRefer to illustrations 14.12a, 14.12b, 14.12c,14.12d and 14.12e10 Clean all components including the

block surfaces and oil pan with solvent, theninspect all surfaces for excessive wear and/ordamage.11 Inspect the oil pressure relief valve pis-ton sliding surface and valve spring for dam-age. If either the spring or the valve is dam-aged, they must be replaced as a set.Measure the relief valve spring free length

14.6d Exploded view ofoil pump assembly

A Rotor coverB Outer rotorC Inner rotorD Oil pump body

14.8 Remove the discharge port 0-ringseal from the oil pump body - apply cleanengine oil to the new seal at installation

14.9 Remove the oil pressure relief valvecap bolt from the oil pump body and

withdraw the spring and therelief valve piston

14.12a Measure the outer rotor thicknessat 4 locations equally spaced

14.12b Measure the inner rotor thicknessat 4 locations equally spaced

Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-23

14.12c Measure the outer rotor's outer diameter at 4 locationsequally spaced

14.12d Use a flat feeler gauge to measure the outer rotor-to-oilpump body clearance at 4 locations equally spaced

2Aand compare it with the dimension given inthis Chapter's Specifications. Replace thespring if its out of tolerance by more than 1/8of an inch.12 Check the oil pump rotor dimensionsand clearances with a micrometer or verniercalipers and a feeler gauge (see illustra-tions) and compare the results to the toler-ances given in this Chapter's Specifications.Replace both rotors if any dimension is out oftolerance.

InstallationRefer to illustration 14.1613 Lubricate the relief valve piston, pistonbore and spring with clean engine oil. Installthe relief valve piston into the bore with thegrooved end going in first followed by thespring and cap bolt. Tighten the cap bolt to thetorque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.Note: If the relief valve piston is installed incor-rectly, serious engine damage could occur.

14 Lubricate the oil pump rotor recess inthe housing and the inner and outer rotorswith clean engine oil and install both rotors inthe body. If the inner rotor has a chamfer,install it so the chamfer is facing the rotorcover. Next, fill the rotor cavity with cleanengine oil and install the cover. Tighten thecover screws to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications.15 Install a new 0-ring in the oil dischargepassage.16 Apply anaerobic sealant to the oil pumpbody sealing surface (see illustration), andposition the pump assembly on the blockaligning the inner rotor and crankshaft driveflats. Tighten the oil pump attaching bolts tothe torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica-tions.17 Install the new crankshaft front seal intothe oil pump housing (see Section 7).18 Install the crankshaft sprocket (see Sec-tion 7) and timing belt (see Section 6).

19 Install the oil pump pick-up tube assem-bly and oil pan (see Section 13).20 Install a new oil filter (see Chapter 1).Lower the vehicle.21 Fill the crankcase with the proper quan-tity and grade of oil (see Recommended lubri-cants and fluids Section in Chapter 1).22 Connect the negative battery cable tothe ground stud on the left shock tower.23 After the sealant has cured per the man-ufacturer's directions, start the engine andcheck for leaks.

15 Driveplate - removal andinstallation

RemovalRefer to illustrations 15.5 and 15.61 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands.

14.12e With the rotors installed, place a precision straightedgeacross the rotor cover surface and measure the clearance

between the rotors and the rotor cover surface at 4 locationsequally spaced

14.16 Apply a bead of anaerobic sealant to the oil pump housingsealing surface as shown

2A-24 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines

15.5 Match-mark the position of the driveplate and backing plate 15.6 Remove the driveplate from the crankshaftto the crankshaft and using an appropriatetool to hold the driveplate, remove the bolts

2 Remove the transaxle assembly (seeChapter 7).3 On vehicles equipped with a manualtransaxle, now is a good time tocheck/replace the modular clutch assembly(see Chapter 8).4 To ensure correct alignment during rein-stallation, match-mark the driveplate andbacking plate to the crankshaft so they canbe reassembled in the same position.5 Remove the bolts that secure the fly-wheel or driveplate to the crankshaft (seeillustration). A special tool is available a mostauto parts stores to hold the driveplate whileloosening the bolts, if the tool is not availablewedge a screwdriver in the starter ring gearteeth to jam the driveplate.6 Remove the driveplate from thecrankshaft (see illustration).7 Clean the driveplate to remove any

grease and oil. Inspect it for cracks, distortionand missing or excessively worn ring gearteeth. Replace if necessary.8 Clean and inspect the mating surfacesof the driveplate and the crankshaft.9 If the crankshaft rear main seal is leak-ing, replace it before reinstalling the drive-plate (see Section 16).

Installation10 Position the driveplate and backingplate against the crankshaft. Align the previ-ously applied match marks. Before installingthe bolts, apply thread locking compound tothe threads.11 Hold the driveplate with the specialholding tool, or wedge a screwdriver in thestarter ring gear teeth to keep the driveplatefrom turning. Tighten the bolts to the torque

li sted in this Chapter's Specifications.12 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of the removal.

16 Rear main oil seal - replacement

Refer to illustrations 16.3 and 16.51 The one-piece rear main oil seal ispressed into a bore machined into the rearmain bearing cap and engine block.2 Remove the transaxle, modular clutchassembly (if equipped) and driveplate (seeSection 15).3 Note: Observe that the oil seal isinstalled flush with the outer surface of theblock. Pry out the old seal with a 3/16-inchflat blade screwdriver (see illustration). Cau-tion: To prevent an oil leak, be very careful

16.3 Using a 3/16 inch flat blade screwdriver, very carefully prythe crankshaft rear main seal out of it's bore - DO NOT nick or

scratch the sealing surfaces on the crankshaft or seal bore

16.5 Position the new seal with the words THIS SIDE OUT facingaway from the rear of the engine. Install this seal DRY! DO NOTlubricate! Gently and evenly drive the seal into the cylinder block

until it is FLUSH with the outer surface of the block. DO NOT driveit past flush or there will be an oil leak - the seal must be FLUSH!

Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines 2A-25

TRANSMISSIONSUPPORT

ASSEMBLYRIGHT ENGINE

SUPPORTASSEMBLY

LEFTFRAME FRAME

RAIL RAILGROUNDCABLETRANSMISSION

TRANSMISSION BRACKET

17.9a Typical left engine mount (passenger's side) 17.9b Typical right engine mount (driver's side)

2Anot to scratch or otherwise damage thecrankshaft sealing surface or the seal bore inthe engine block.4 Clean the crankshaft and seal bore inthe block thoroughly and de-grease the areasby wiping them with a rag soaked in lacquerthinner or acetone. DO NOT lubricate the lipor outer diameter of the new seal - it must beinstalled as it comes from the manufacturer -DRY.5 Position the new seal onto thecrankshaft. Note: When installing the newseal, if so marked, the words THIS SIDE OUT

on the seal must face out, toward the rear ofthe engine. Using an appropriate size driverand pilot tool, drive the seal into the cylinderblock until it is flush with the outer surface ofthe block. If the seal is driven in past flush,there will be an oil leak. Check that the seal isflush (see illustration).6 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal.

17 Engine mounts - check andreplacement

1 Engine mounts seldom require atten-tion, but broken or deteriorated mountsshould be replaced immediately or the addedstrain placed on the driveline componentsmay cause damage or accelerated wear.

Check2 During the check, the engine must beraised slightly to remove the weight from themounts.3 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands, then position a jack under theengine oil pan. Place a large wood blockbetween the jack head and the oil pan to pre-vent oil pan damage, then carefully raise theengine just enough to take the weight off themounts. Warning: DO NOTplace any part ofyour body under the engine when it's sup -

ported only by a jack!4 Check the mounts to see if the rubber iscracked, hardened or separated from themetal backing. Sometimes the rubber willsplit right down the center.5 Check for relative movement betweenthe mount plates and the engine or frame(use a large screwdriver or pry bar to attemptto move the mounts). If movement is noted,lower the engine and tighten the mount fas-teners.6 Rubber preservative may be applied tothe mounts to help slow deterioration.

ReplacementRefer to illustrations 17.9a, 17.9b, 17.9c,17.9d, 17.9e and 17.9f7 Raise the front of the vehicle and sup-port it securely on jackstands.8 Place a floor jack under the engine (witha wood block between the jack head and oilpan) and raise the engine slightly to relieve

17.9c Typical front engine mount

2A-26 Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines

17.9d Typical engine support module (front and rearlower mounts - 1995 through 1997 models)

17.9f Typical 2.4L rear engine mount

the weight from the mounts. Note: On 1995 to condenser (if equipped) must be supported. engine/transaxle removal.1997 models, the front engine mount (engine 9 Remove the fasteners and detach the 10 Installation is the reverse of removal.support module) is attached to the lower radi- mount from the frame and engine (see illus- Use thread locking compound on the mount-ator support. When removing the engine sup- trations). Caution: Do not disconnect more ing bolts and be sure to tighten themport module, the radiator and air conditioning than one mount at a time, except during securely.

LOWER RADIATORSUPPORT

FRONTENGINE MOUNT

DAMPER WEIGHT(SOME MODELS)

ENGINESUPPORT MODULE

REAR STRUT REARBRACKET ENGINE MOUNT

SUPPORT BRACKET(SOME MODELS)

17.9e Typical 2.0L rear engine mount

Chapter 2 Part BV6 engineContents

SectionCamshafts - removal, inspection and installation ................................10Camshaft oil seal - replacement ............................................................8CHECK ENGINE light ........................................................See Chapter 6Crankshaft front oil seal - replacement ..................................................7Cylinder head - removal and installation ..............................................12Engine mounts - check and replacement ............................................17Exhaust manifold - removal and installation ..........................................5Driveplate - removal and installation ....................................................15General information................................................................................1Intake manifold ...................................................................................... 4

SectionOil pan - removal and installation ........................................................ 13Oil pump - removal, inspection and installation ...................................14Rear main oil seal - replacement......................................................... 16Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle .....................2Rocker arm and hydraulic valve lash adjuster

assembly - removal, inspection and installation .............................. 9Timing belt - removal, inspection and installation ................................. 6Top dead center (TDC) for number one piston ..............See Chapter 2CValve cover - removal and installation................................................... 3Valve springs, retainers and seals - replacement ................................ 11

2BSpecifications

GeneralBore .........................................................................................................Stroke......................................................................................................Displacement...........................................................................................Firing order..............................................................................................Compression ratio...................................................................................Compression pressure ............................................................................Oil pressure

At idle speed......................................................................................At 3000 rpm........................................................................................

CamshaftEndplay

Standard.............................................................................................Service limit ........................................................................................

Cylinder headCylinder head gasket surface warpage limit ...........................................

Intake and exhaust manifoldsIntake manifold warpage limit.................................................................Exhaust manifold warpage limit..............................................................

3.29 inches2.992 inches152 cubic inches (2.5 liters)1-2-3-4-5-69.4:1178 psi @ 250 rpm

6 psi (minimum)35 to 75 psi

0.004 to 0.008 inch0.0016 inch

0.008 inch

0.008 inch0.012 inch

Cylinder numberingand spark plug wireterminal locations

531

FRONT OF VEHICLE

2B-2 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine

Oil pumpInner rotor-to-outer rotor lobe clearance .........................................................0.003 to 0.007 inchOuter rotor-to-housing clearance

Standard.....................................................................................................0.004 to 0.007 inchService limit................................................................................................ 0.0138 inch

Rotor-to-cover clearance (end clearance)....................................................... 0.0015 to 0.0035 inch

Torque specifications Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)Camshaft sprocket bolt ....................................................................................65Camshaft thrust case bolts.............................................................................. 108 in-lbsCrankshaft damper/pulley bolt .........................................................................134Crankshaft rear main seal retainer bolts ..........................................................97 in-lbsCylinder head bolts..........................................................................................80EGR tube bolts.................................................................................................95 in-lbsEngine mounting bracket bolts........................................................................33Exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head nuts..........................................................33Exhaust manifold-to-exhaust pipe nuts...........................................................21Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts ..................................................................115 in-lbsDriveplate-to-crankshaft bolts ......................................................................... 70Intake manifold

Upper intake manifold bolts........................................................................160 in-lbsLower intake manifold bolts........................................................................185 in-lbs

Oil filter adapter bolts.......................................................................................17Oil pan bolts .....................................................................................................53 in-lbsOil pump

Attaching boltsM8 bolts.................................................................................................10M10 bolts.............................................................................................. 30

Cover bolts ................................................................................................. 88 in-lbsPick-up tube bolts...................................................................................... 168 in-lbsRelief valve cap bolt................................................................................... 30

Rocker arm shaft bolts .....................................................................................23Thermostat housing bolts................................................................................ 168 in-lbsTiming belt

Cover bolts..................................................................................................105 in-lbsTensioner arm assembly bolt ..................................................................... 33Tensioner pulley bolt .................................................................................. 35

Valve cover bolts..............................................................................................88 in-lbsWater pump mounting bolt.............................................................................. 17"Refer to Part C for additional torque specifications

1 General information

This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to in-vehicle engine repair procedures. Informationconcerning engine removal and installationand engine block and cylinder head overhaulcan be found in Part C of this Chapter.

The following repair procedures arebased on the assumption that the engine isinstalled in the vehicle. If the engine has beenremoved from the vehicle and mounted on astand, many of the steps outlined in this Partof Chapter 2 will not apply.

The Specifications included in this Partof Chapter 2 apply only to the procedurescontained in this Part. Part C of Chapter 2contains the Specifications necessary forcylinder head and engine block rebuilding.

2 Repair operations possible withthe engine in the vehicle

Many major repair operations can beaccomplished without removing the engine

from the vehicle.Clean the engine compartment and the

exterior of the engine with some type ofdegreaser before any work is performed. Itwill make the job easier and help keep dirtout of the internal areas of the engine.

Depending on the components involved,it may be helpful to remove the hood toimprove access to the engine as repairs areperformed (refer to Chapter 11 if necessary).Cover the fenders to prevent damage to thepaint. Special pads are available, but an oldbedspread or blanket will also work.

If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaksdevelop, indicating a need for gasket or sealreplacement, the repairs can generally bemade with the engine in the vehicle. Theintake and exhaust manifold gaskets, oil pangasket, camshaft and crankshaft oil sealsand cylinder head gasket are all accessiblewith the engine in place.

Exterior engine components, such asthe intake and exhaust manifolds, the oil pan,the oil pump, the water pump, the startermotor, the alternator, the distributor and thefuel system components can be removed forrepair with the engine in place.

Since the camshafts and cylinder headcan be removed without pulling the engine,valve component servicing can also beaccomplished with the engine in the vehicle.Replacement of the timing belt and sprocketsis also possible with the engine in the vehicle.

In extreme cases caused by a lack ofnecessary equipment, repair or replacementof piston rings, pistons, connecting rods androd bearings is possible with the engine in thevehicle. However, this practice is not recom-mended because of the cleaning and prepa-ration work that must be done to the compo-nents involved.

3 Valve cover - removal andinstallation

RemovalRefer to illustrations 3.6 and 3.71 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Remove the air cleaner assembly (seeChapter 4).

Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 2B-3

3.6 Valve cover mounting bolts (arrows) 3.7 Remove and replace the seal from each spark plug tube

3 If removing the rear valve cover (nearthe firewall), remove the upper intake mani-fold (see Section 4).4 Clearly label then remove the spark plugwires from the valve cover (see Chapter 1 ifnecessary).5 Clearly label and then disconnect anyemission hoses and electrical cables whichconnect to or cross over the valve cover.6 Remove the valve cover bolts and lift offthe cover (see illustration). If the coversticks to the cylinder head, tap on it with asoft-face hammer or place a wood blockagainst the cover and tap on the wood with ahammer. Caution: If you have to pry betweenthe valve cover and the cylinder head, beextremely careful not to gouge or nick thegasket surfaces of either part. A leak coulddevelop after reassembly.7 Remove the spark plug tube seals. Evenif they look OK, they should be replaced (seeillustration).8 Thoroughly clean the valve cover andremove all traces of old gasket material. Gas-ket removal solvents are available from autoparts stores and may prove helpful. After

cleaning the surfaces, degrease them with arag soaked in lacquer thinner or acetone.

Installation9 Install the new spark plug seals onto thetubes.10 Install a new gasket on the cover, usinganaerobic RTV sealant to hold it in place.11 Tighten the valve cover bolts in 3 stepsto the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifi-cations using a criss-cross pattern starting inthe middle of the cover and working out-wards.12 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal. When complete, run theengine and check for oil leaks.

Spark plug tube replacement13 Remove the applicable valve cover (seeabove).14 Grasp spark plug tube with locking pli-ers, carefully twist back and forth and removethe tube from cylinder head.15 Clean the locking agent from the tubeand the recess in cylinder head with solvent,and dry thoroughly.

16 Apply a small amount of Loctite No.271, or equivalent, around the lower end ofthe tube and install the tube into the cylinderhead. Carefully tap the tube into the recesswith a wood block and mallet until it is fullyseated in the cylinder head.

4 Intake manifold - removal andinstallation

Upper intake manifoldRemovalRefer to illustrations 4.3a, 4.3b, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7aand 4.7b1 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Remove the air filter inlet duct from thethrottle body (see Chapter 4 if necessary).3 Clearly label and disconnect all hoses,wires, brackets and emission lines whichattach to the intake manifold (see illustra-tions).4 Disconnect the accelerator cable and

2B

4.3a Disconnect the throttle position sensor connector 4.3b Disconnect the purge vacuum hose from the throttlebody fitting

2B-4 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine

LOWER INTAKEMANIFOLD

GASKETS

GASKETS

NUT

4.5 Exploded view of V6 engine intake and exhaust system components

cruise control cable (if applicable) from thethrottle body (see Chapter 4 if necessary).5 Remove the bolts securing the upperintake manifold to the right and left side sup-port brackets (see illustration).6 Remove the EGR tube (see illustration).7 Loosen the upper intake manifold boltsin a criss-cross pattern 1/4 turn at a time untilthey can be removed by hand. Remove theupper intake manifold from the engine (seeillustrations). If it sticks, tap the manifoldwith a soft-face hammer or carefully pry it

from the lower intake manifold. Caution: Donot pry between gasket sealing surfaces.8 To minimize the chance of gasket debrisor other contamination from getting into theengine, place clean rags into the lower intakemanifold passages.9 Remove all traces of gasket materialfrom both the upper and lower intake mani-fold by carefully scraping them using a suit-able gasket scraper. Caution: The intakemanifold components are made of aluminumand are easily nicked or gouged. Do not dam -

age the gasket surfaces or a leak may resultafter the work is complete. Gasket removalsolvents are available from auto parts storesand may prove helpful.10 Using a precision straightedge andfeeler gauge, check the upper and lowerintake manifold mating surfaces for warpage(see illustration 4.22). If the warpage on anysurface exceeds the limits listed in this Chap-ter's Specifications, the discrepant intakemanifold must be replaced or resurfaced byan automotive machine shop.

4.7a Starting in the center and working outwards, remove theupper intake manifold mounting bolts in a criss-cross pattern .. .

4.6 Remove the EGR tube

Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 2B-5

4.7b ... then remove the manifold from the engine 4.22 Check the lower intake manifold gasket surface for warpage

Installation11 Remove the rags from the lower intakemanifold. Use a shop vacuum to remove anycontamination that may be present.12 Install the upper intake manifold, using anew gasket. Tighten the bolts in 3 stages,working from the center out, to the torqueli sted in this Chapter's Specifications.13 Install the EGR tube using new gaskets.Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications.14 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal.

Lower intake manifoldRemovalRefer to illustration 4.2215 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce-dure (see Chapter 4).16 Remove the upper intake manifold (seeabove).17 Remove the fuel rail and injector assem-bly (see Chapter 4).18 Loosen the intake manifold nuts in thereverse order of the tightening sequence (seeillustration 4.24), 1/4 turn at a time until theycan be removed by hand. Remove the wash-ers.19 Remove the lower intake manifold fromthe engine. If it sticks, tap the manifold with asoft-face hammer or carefully pry it from theheads. Caution: Do not pry between gasket

sealing surfaces.20 To minimize the chance of gasket debrisor other contamination from getting into theengine, place clean rags into the cylinderhead intake passages.21 Remove all traces of gasket material fromthe upper and lower intake manifold and cylin-der heads by carefully scraping them using asuitable gasket scraper. Caution: The intakemanifold components and cylinder heads aremade of aluminum and are easily nicked orgouged. Do not damage the gasket surfaces ora leak may result after the work is complete.Gasket removal solvents are available fromauto parts stores and may prove helpful.22 Using a precision straightedge andfeeler gauge, check the upper and lowerintake manifold gasket surfaces for warpage(see illustration). Check the gasket surfaceon the cylinder head also. If the warpage onany surface exceeds the limits listed in thisChapter's Specifications, the discrepantcomponent must be replaced or resurfacedby an automotive machine shop.

InstallationRefer to illustration 4.2423 Remove the rags from the cylinder headintake passages. Use a shop vacuum toremove any contamination that may be pre-sent.24 Install the lower intake manifold, using anew gaskets. Tighten the nuts in three

stages, in the sequence shown (see illustra-tion) to the torque listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications.25 Install the fuel rail (see Chapter 4).26 Install the upper intake manifold, using anew gasket. Tighten the bolts in three stages,working from the center out, to the torqueli sted in this Chapter's Specifications.27 Install the EGR tube using new gaskets.Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications.28 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal.

5 Exhaust manifold - removal andinstallation

Warning: Allow the engine to cool completelybefore beginning this procedure.Note: This procedure can be used to removeone or both of the exhaust manifolds asrequired.

RemovalRefer to illustrations 5.3, 5.8 and 5.91 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands.3 Remove the exhaust manifold heatshield(s) (see illustration). Before attempting

2B

4.24 Lower intake manifold nut tightening sequence 5.3 Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts (arrows) (front exhaustmanifold shown) - the upper alternator bracket must be removed

to extract the upper left heat shield bolt

2B-6 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine

5.8 Exhaust manifold-to-exhaust system joint (upper arrow) andcross-over pipe (lower arrow)

to remove the rear manifold heat shield, dis-connect the oxygen sensor wiring harness atthe connector. In order to remove the frontmanifold heat shield, the alternator upperbracket must be removed.4 To make removal easier, apply penetrat-ing oil to the exhaust manifold and manifold-to-pipe fasteners.5 Working under the vehicle, remove theexhaust manifold cross-over pipe.6 Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiringharness at the connector.7 If you are removing the rear exhaustmanifold (near the firewall), remove the powersteering pump bracket (see Chapter 10).8 If you are removing the rear exhaustmanifold (near the firewall), detach theexhaust system from the manifold (see illus-tration). Note: It may be necessary toremove, or partially remove, the exhaust sys-tem to facilitate rear manifold removal (seeChapter 4 if necessary).9 Unscrew the mounting nuts, remove theexhaust manifold and gasket (see illustra-tion).10 Using a wire brush, clean the exhaustmanifold studs, replacing any that showthread damage.11 Using a scraper, remove all traces ofgasket material from the exhaust manifold,cylinder head, and exhaust pipe mating sur-faces and inspect them for wear and cracks.Caution: When removing gasket materialfrom any surface, especially aluminum, bevery careful not to scratch or gouge the gas-ket surface. Any damage to the surface may aleak after reassembly. Gasket removal sol-vents are available from auto parts stores andmay prove helpful.12 Using a precision straightedge andfeeler gauge, check the exhaust manifoldgasket surfaces for warpage. Check the sur-face on the cylinder head also. If the warpageon any surface exceeds the limits listed inthis Chapter's Specifications, the exhaustmanifold and/or cylinder head must bereplaced or resurfaced by an automotivemachine shop.

Installation13 Install the new exhaust gasket(s) onto

5.9 Exhaust manifold mounting nuts (arrows) (front manifoldshown, heat shield removed)

6.4a To keep the crankshaft from turning,insert a large screwdriver or bar through

the opening in the damper/pulley andwedge it against the engine block, then

loosen the bolt with a socket andbreaker bar

the cylinder head.14 Apply Loctite No. 271 to the exhaustmanifold mounting stud threads.15 Install the manifold, washers and nuts.Tighten the nuts in three stages, workingfrom the center out, to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications.16 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal. Install a new gasket(s)between the exhaust manifold and exhaustpipe(s). Tighten the nuts to the torque listedin this Chapter's Specifications.17 Run the engine and check for exhaustleaks.

6 Timing belt - removal, inspectionand installation

Caution: If the timing belt failed with theengine operating, damage to the valves mayhave occurred. Perform an engine compres-sion check after belt replacement to deter-mine if any valve damage is present.

6.4b Remove the damper/pulley fromthe crankshaft

RemovalRefer to illustrations 6.4a, 6.4b, 6.6, 6.7,6.11a, 6.11b, 6.12 and 6.13Caution: Do not turn the crankshaft orcamshafts after the timing belt has beenremoved, as this will damage the valves fromcontact with the pistons. Do not try to turnthe crankshaft with the camshaft sprocketbolt(s) and do not rotate the crankshaft coun-terclockwise as viewed from the timing beltend of the engine.Note: In order to perform this procedure, aspecial tool is required to properly tension thetiming belt. The manufacturers tool number is"MD 998767" and may be available from adealership parts department or directly fromMiller Special Tools (phone no. 800-801-5420).1 Position the number one piston at TopDead Center (see Chapter 2C).2 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).3 Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter 1).4 Loosen the large bolt in the center of thecrankshaft damper/pulley. It might be verytight, to break it loose insert a large screw-driver or bar through the opening in the pulleyto keep the crankshaft stationary, then

Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 2B-7

6.6 Timing belt cover bolt locations

6.11a Verify that the camshaft sprocket timing marks are alignedwith their respective marks on the rear timing belt covers 6.11b Crankshaft timing belt sprocket and oil pump housing

timing marks (arrows)

RIGHT CAMSPROCKET ALIGN TIMING

MARKS

LEFT CAMSPROCKET

L.6.7 Remove the bolts (arrows) that attach the timing belt lower

cover to the engine

2B

6.12 Paint an arrow on the timing belt inthe direction of rotation (clockwise) so itmay be reinstalled in the same direction

6.13 Timing belt tensioner mountingbolts (arrows)

loosen the bolt with a socket and breakerbar. Remove the bolt, washer and dam-per/pulley from the crankshaft (see illustra-tions).5 After removing the crankshaft pulley,reinstall the crankshaft bolt using an appro-priate spacer (this will enable you to turn thecrankshaft later).6 Remove the upper-left timing belt cover(see illustration).7 Remove the lower timing belt cover (seeillustration).8 Detach the power steering pumpbracket from the engine (see Chapter 10 ifnecessary).9 Remove the upper-right timing beltcover (see illustration 6.6).10 Remove the right (passenger side)engine mount and the mounting bracket fromthe engine (see Section 17). Note: Make surethe engine is supported with a floor jackplaced under the oil pan. Place a wood blockon the jack head to prevent the floor jack fromdenting or damaging the oil pan.11 Make sure the timing marks on thecrankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprocketsalign with their respective marks beforeremoving the timing belt (see illustrations).

12 If you plan to reuse the timing belt, paintan arrow on it to indicate the direction ofrotation (clockwise) (see illustration).13 Loosen the timing belt tensioner mount-ing bolts and then remove the tensioner (seeillustration). Note: The tensioner piston will

extend when the assembly is removed.14 Carefully slip the timing belt off thesprockets and set it aside. If you plan toreuse the timing belt, place it in a plastic bag- do not allow the belt to come in contactwith any type of oil or water as this will greatlyshorten belt life.

2B-8 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine

6.18 Carefully inspect the timing belt for damage or wear -bending it backwards will often make defects more apparent

6.24 Using a vise (lined with soft-jaws), compress the timing belttensioner piston until the holes in the housing and piston align.Then place a small Allen wrench (arrow) or drill bit, through the

holes to keep the piston in position for installation

6.25 Using special tool MD 998767 attached to a torque wrench,apply 39 in-lbs of torque (in a counterclockwise direction) to the

tensioner pulley, then move the tensioner unit up against thetensioner pulley bracket and tighten the tensioner mounting bolts

to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications

6.22 Binder clips (arrows) can be used to retain the timing belt inposition on the camshaft sprockets during installation

InspectionRefer to illustration 6.1815 With the timing belt covers removed,now is a good time to inspect the frontcrankshaft and camshaft seals for leakage. Ifleakage is evident, replace the them (seeSection 7 and 8, respectively).16 Inspect the water pump for evidence ofleakage (usually indicated by a trail of wet ordried coolant). Check the pulley for excessiveradial play and bearing roughness. Replace ifnecessary (see Chapter 3).17 Rotate the tensioner pulley and idler pul-ley by hand and move them side-to-side todetect bearing roughness and/or excessiveplay. Visually inspect all timing belt sprocketsfor any signs of damage or wear. Replace asnecessary.18 Inspect the timing belt for cracks, sepa-ration, wear, missing teeth and oil contamina-tion (see illustration). Replace the belt if it'sin questionable condition or the enginemileage is close to that referenced in theMaintenance Schedule (see Chapter 1).19 Check the timing belt tensioner unit forleaks or any other obvious damage, replace ifnecessary.

InstallationRefer to illustrations 6.22, 6.24, 6.25 and 6.2720 Confirm that the timing marks on bothcamshaft sprockets are aligned with theirrespective marks on the rear timing belt cov-ers (see illustration 6.11a). Reposition thecamshafts if required. Caution: if it is neces-sary to rotate the camshafts to align the tim-ing marks, first rotate the crankshaft slightlycounterclockwise (three notches on thesprocket) to ensure the valves do not contactthe pistons.21 Position the crankshaft sprocket withthe timing marks aligned (see illustration6.11b).22 Install the timing belt as follows; firstplace the belt onto the right camshaftsprocket (the one towards the rear of thevehicle) and clamp it to the sprocket, whilemaintaining tension on the belt, wrap it underthe water pump pulley and place it onto theleft sprocket camshaft sprocket. Secure thetiming belt to the left camshaft sprocket (seeillustration). Continue to wrap the timing beltover the idler pulley, around the crankshaftsprocket and finishing with the tensioner pul-ley. Remove the clamps from the camshaft

sprockets.23 Make sure the timing belt is tightbetween the left camshaft sprocket and thecrankshaft sprocket, all the slack is at thetensioner pulley and all the timing marks arealigned.24 Before installation, the timing belt ten-sioner piston must be compressed into thetensioner housing. Place the tensioner in avise so the surface with the pin hole is facingup. Slowly compress the tensioner using thevise, then install an appropriate size Allenwrench or drill bit through the body and intothe piston to retain the piston in this position(see illustration). Remove the tensioner fromthe vise.25 Using the special tool "MD 998767"engaged in the tensioner pulley, have anassistant apply 39 in-lbs of torque in a coun-terclockwise direction (see illustration).26 With the torque applied to the tensionerpulley, install the tensioner assembly. Movethe tensioner up against the tensioner pulleybracket and tighten the mounting bolts to thetorque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.Remove the torque wrench and special toolfrom the tensioner pulley.

Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 2B-9

6.27 If the timing belt tension is setcorrectly, the tensioner piston retainingpin (arrow) (an Allen wrench in this case)

can be removed and installed easily

27 Remove the Allen wrench or drill bitretaining the piston from the tensioner. Thetiming belt tension is correct when the ten-sioner piston retaining pin (Allen wrench ordrill bit) can be withdrawn and reinserted eas-il y (see illustration). Verify that the timingmarks on the camshaft sprockets andcrankshaft sprocket are still aligned with their-respective timing marks (see illustrations6.11a and 6.11b).28 Using the bolt in the center of thecrankshaft sprocket, slowly turn thecrankshaft clockwise two complete revolu-tions. Caution: If you feel strong resistancewhile turning the crankshaft - STOP, thevalves may be hitting the pistons from incor-rect valve timing. Stop and re-check the valvetiming. Note: The camshafts and crankshaftsprocket marks will align every two revolu-tions of the crankshaft. Recheck the align-ment of the timing marks (see illustrations6.11a and 6.11b). If the marks do not alignproperly, remove the timing belt tensioner,slip the belt off the camshaft sprockets,realign the marks, reinstall the belt and ten-sioner, then check the alignment again.29 After crankshaft rotation, recheck thetiming belt tension by inserting the tensionerpiston retaining pin (Allen wrench or drill bit)back into the tensioner. If the retaining pincannot be inserted and withdrawn freely,readjust the timing belt tension and repeatSteps 24 through 29.30 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal. Tighten the crankshaftdamper/pulley bolt to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications.

7 Crankshaft front oil seal -replacement

Refer to illustrations 7.2, 7.3 and 7.5Caution: Do not rotate the camshafts orcrankshaft when the timing belt is removed ordamage to the engine may occur.

7.2 After removing the timing beltsprocket, remove the Woodruff key

(arrow) from the crankshaft

1 Remove the timing belt (see Section 6).2 Remove the crankshaft timing beltsprocket using a gear puller. Remove theWoodruff key from the crankshaft keyway(see illustration).3 Wrap the tip of a small screwdriver withvinyl tape. Carefully use the screwdriver topry the seal out of its bore (see illustration).Take care to prevent damaging the oil pumpassembly, the crankshaft and the seal bore.4 Thoroughly clean and inspect the sealbore and sealing surface on the crankshaft.Minor imperfections can be removed withfine emery cloth. If there is a groove worn inthe crankshaft sealing surface (from contactwith the seal), installing a new seal will proba-bly not stop the leak.5 Lubricate the new seal with engine oiland using a hammer and the appropriate sizesocket, drive the seal into the bore until it'sflush with the oil pump housing (see illustra-tion).6 Install the Woodruff key into the slot inthe crankshaft. Place the crankshaft timingbelt sprocket onto the crankshaft with thetiming belt retaining lip facing inward (towardthe engine).7 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal. Tighten the crankshaftpulley bolt to the torque listed in this Chap-ter's Specifications.8 Start the engine and check for oil leaks.

8 Camshaft oil seal - replacement

Refer to illustrations 8.3, 8.4, 8.6a and 8.6bCaution: Do not rotate the camshafts orcrankshaft when the timing belt is removed ordamage to the engine may occur.1 Remove the timing belt (see Section 6).2 Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwiseuntil the crankshaft sprocket is three notchesBTDC. This will prevent engine damage if thecamshaft sprocket is inadvertently rotatedduring removal.3 While keeping the camshaft from rotat -

7.3 Using a hooked tool or screwdriver,carefully pry the crankshaft front seal outof its bore - DO NOT nick or scratch the

crankshaft or seal bore

7.5 Lubricate the new seal with cleanengine oil and drive it into place using a

hammer and socket

8.3 To hold the camshaft while removingthe sprocket bolt, use an old piece of

ti ming belt wrapped around the sprocketand a chain wrench as shown

ing, remove the camshaft sprocket bolt. Thenusing two large screwdrivers, lever thesprocket off the camshaft. Note: A strap-typedamper/pulley holder tool is available at mostauto parts stores and is recommended for

2B

2B-10 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine

8.4 Using a hooked tool or screwdriver,carefully pry the camshaft seal out of the

bore - DO NOT nick or scratch thecamshaft or seal bore

this procedure, however, if you are not goingto reuse the old timing belt, you can wrap apiece of it around the sprocket and use achain wrench to hold the sprocket in place asshown (see illustration).4 Carefully pry out the camshaft oil sealusing a small hooked tool or screwdriver (seeillustration). Don't scratch the bore or dam-age the camshaft in the process (if thecamshaft is damaged, the new seal will endup leaking).5 Clean the bore and coat the outer edgeof the new seal with engine oil or multi-pur-pose grease. Also lubricate the seal lip.6 Using a socket with an outside diameterslightly smaller than the outside diameter ofthe seal and a hammer (see illustration),carefully drive the new seal into the cylinderhead until it's flush with the face of the cylin-der head. If a socket isn't available, a shortsection of pipe will also work. Note: If enginelocation makes it difficult to use a hammer toinstall the camshaft seal, fabricate a sealinstallation tool from a piece of pipe cut to theappropriate length, a bolt and a large washer(see illustration). Place the section of pipeover the seal and thread the bolt into thecamshaft. The seal can now be pressed intothe bore by tightening the bolt.7 Install the camshaft sprocket, aligningthe pin in the camshaft with the hole in thesprocket. Using an appropriate tool to holdthe camshaft sprocket, tighten the camshaftsprocket bolt to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications.8 Install the timing belt (see Section 6).9 Run the engine and check for oil leaks.

9 Rocker arm and hydraulic valvelash adjuster assembly -removal, inspection andinstallation

Removal1 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower

8.6a Using a hammer and the appropriatesize socket, drive the camshaft seal into

the bore until it is flush with thecylinder head

(see Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Position the number one piston at TopDead Center (see Chapter 2C).3 Remove the valve cover(s) as required(see Section 3).4 Prior to removing the rocker arm shafts,identify each rocker arm and shaft as to itsproper location (cylinder number and intakeor exhaust). Caution: Do not interchange therocker arms onto a different shaft or shaftassemblies onto a different location as thiscould lead to premature wear.5 Loosen the rocker arm shaft bolts 1/4-turn at a time, until they can be loosened byhand, in the reverse order of the tighteningsequence (see illustration 9.17). Completelyloosen the bolts, but do not remove them,leaving them in place will prevent the assem-bly from falling apart when it is lifted off thecylinder head.6 Lift the rocker arms and shaft assem-blies from the cylinder head and set them onthe workbench. Note: The hydraulic valvelash adjusters may become dislodged fromthe rocker arms during shaft removal. Ifrequired, secure the adjusters in place withvinyl tape.7 Disassemble the rocker arm shaft com-ponents paying close attention to their posi-tions. Note: To keep the rocker arms andrelated parts in order, it's a good idea toremove them and put them onto two lengthsof wire (such as unbent coat hangers) in thesame order as they're removed, marking eachwire (which simulates the rocker shaft) as towhich end would be the front of the engine.

InspectionRefer to illustration 9.8Note: The valve lash adjuster is an integralpart of each rocker arm and cannot bereplaced separately. If defective, both mustbe replaced.8 Visually check the rocker arms forexcessive wear or damage (see illustration).Replace them if evidence of wear or damageis found.9 Inspect each lash adjuster carefully for

8.6b If the space is too confined to use ahammer to drive the seal in place,

fabricate a tool using a bolt, washer andsection of pipe. Place the section of pipeover the seal and thread the bolt into thecamshaft to press the seal into the bore

signs of wear and damage, particularly on thesurface that contacts the valve tip. Use asmall diameter wire to check the oil holes forrestrictions.10 Since the lash adjusters frequentlybecome clogged, we recommend replacingthe rocker arm/lash adjuster assembly if you'reconcerned about their condition or if theengine is exhibiting valve "tapping" noises.11 Inspect all rocker arm shaft compo-nents. Look for cracks, worn or scored sur-faces or other damage. Replace any partsfound to be damaged or worn excessively.

InstallationRefer to illustrations 9.14 and 9.1712 Prior to installation, the lash adjustersmust be partially full of engine oil - indicatedby little or no plunger action when theadjuster is depressed. If there's excessiveplunger travel, place the rocker arm assemblyinto clean engine oil and pump the plungeruntil the plunger travel is eliminated. Note: Ifthe plunger still travels within the rocker armwhen full of oil it's defective and the rockerarm assembly must be replaced.13 Install the rocker arms (and springs -intake shafts only) onto the shafts, makingsure they are reinstalled in their original loca-tions.

9.8 Visually inspect the hydraulic lashadjuster and roller (arrows) for damage

and excessive play - check the rocker armshaft bore for score marks or

excessive wear

Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 2B-11

9.14 The intake rocker arm shaft springs (arrows) must beinstalled as shown

9.17 Rocker arm shaft bolt TIGHTENING sequence

10 Camshafts - removal, inspection

Note: The camshaft(s) cannot be removedwith the cylinder head(s) installed on theengine.

RemovalRefer to illustration 10.51 Remove the rocker arm shaft assem-blies (see Section 9).2 If you are removing the camshaft in theright (rear) cylinder head, remove the distribu-tor (see Chapter 5).3 Remove the cylinder head (see Sec-tion 12).4 On the right cylinder head, carefullywithdraw the camshaft from the distributoropening in the rear of the cylinder head. Cau-tion: Do not damage the camshaft lobes orbearing journals during removal. Note: If youare removing both camshafts, identify eachone as it is removed from the cylinder headso that it may be installed back in it's originallocation.5 On the left (front) cylinder head, removethe thrust case from the rear of the cylinderhead and withdraw the camshaft (see illustra-tion). Caution: Do not damage the camshaftlobes or bearing journals during removal.

14 On the intake rocker arm shafts, makesure that the springs are installed on the shaftin the correct locations (see illustration). and installation15 On the right (rear) cylinder head, installthe rocker arm assemblies with the flat at theend of each rocker arm shaft located at thetiming belt end of the engine and positionedtoward their respective valves.16 On the left (front) cylinder head, installthe rocker arm assemblies with the flat at theend of each rocker arm shaft located at thetransaxle end of the engine and positionedtoward their respective valves.17 Tighten the rocker arm shaft bolts insequence shown (see illustration) in threesteps to the torque listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications.18 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal. Run the engine andcheck for oil leaks and proper operation.19 When re-starting the engine after replac-ing the rocker arm/lash adjusters, theadjusters will normally make "tapping" noisesdue to air in the lubrication system. To bleedair from the lash adjusters, start the engineand allow it to reach operating temperature,slowly raise the speed of the engine from idleto 3,000 rpm and back to idle over a oneminute period. If, after several attempts, theadjuster(s) do not become silent, replace thedefective rocker arm/lash adjuster assembly.

6 Remove the camshaft seal(s) from thecylinder head(s) (see Section 8 if necessary).

InspectionRefer to illustration 10.107 Using a suitable scraper, remove alltraces of gasket material from all gasket sur-faces. Caution: When removing gasket mate-rial from any surface, especially aluminum, bevery careful not to scratch or gouge the gas-ket surface. Any damage to the surface may aleak after reassembly. Gasket removal sol-vents are available from auto parts stores andmay prove helpful.8 Thoroughly clean the camshaft(s) with arag soaked in lacquer thinner or acetone.Visually inspect the camshaft(s) for wearand/or damage to the lobe surfaces, bearingjournals and seal contact surfaces. Visuallyinspect the camshaft bearing surfaces in thecylinder head(s) for scoring and other dam-age. Cylinder head replacement may be nec-essary if the camshaft bearing surfaces in thehead are damaged or excessively worn.9 Replace any component that fails theabove inspections.10 Using a micrometer, check the camshaftlobes for excessive wear by measuring thecenter of the lobe (the area the rocker armroller rides on) and comparing it with theedges of the lobes (the area the rocker arm

2B

10.5 On the left (front) cylinder head, remove the thrust cover andcarefully withdraw the camshaft

10.10 Check the camshaft lobes for wear with a micrometer

2B-12 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine

10.13 Measure the camshaft endplay with a dial indicatorpositioned on the sprocket end of the camshaft as shown

10.15 Prior to installing the camshaft, lubricate the bearingjournals, thrust surfaces and lobes with engine assembly lube or

clean engine oil

11.5 This is what the air hose adapter that threads into the sparkplug hole looks like - they're readily available from

auto parts stores

roller does not ride on) (see illustration). Ifany wear is indicated, check the correspond-ing rocker arm, replace the camshaft androcker arms if necessary.

Camshaft endplay measurementRefer to illustration 10.1311 Lubricate the camshaft(s) and cylinderhead bearing journals with clean engine oil.12 Carefully insert the camshaft into thecylinder head and install the thrust case or dis-tributor as applicable. Tighten the bolts to thetorque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.13 Install a dial indicator set up on thecylinder head and place the indicator tip onthe camshaft at the sprocket end (see illus-tration).14 Using a screwdriver, carefully pry thecamshaft to the rear of the cylinder head untilit stops. Zero the dial indicator and pry thecamshaft forward. The amount of indicatortravel is the camshaft endplay. Compare theendplay measurement with the toleranceli sted in this Chapter's Specifications. If theendplay is excessive, check the camshaftand cylinder head thrust bearing surfaces forwear and replace components as necessary.

InstallationRefer to illustration 10.1515 Very carefully clean the camshaft and

11.7 Use a small magnet (shown) or needle-nose pliers to removethe valve spring keepers - be careful not to drop them down into

the engine!

bearing journals. Liberally coat the bearingjournals, lobes and thrust bearing surfaces ofthe camshaft with engine assembly lube orengine oil (see illustration).16 Carefully insert the camshaft into thecylinder head. On the left side cylinder head,install the thrust case, using a new 0-ring,and tighten the bolts to the torque listed inthis Chapter's Specifications.17 Install a new camshaft oil seal in thecylinder head (see Section 8).18 Inspect the cylinder head bolts andinstall the cylinder head(s) (see Section 12).Torque the cylinder head bolts as describedin Section 12.19 If removed, install the distributor using anew 0-ring (see Chapter 5). Tighten themounting nuts to the torque listed in theChapter 5 Specifications.20 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal. Start the engine andcheck for leaks and proper operation.

- replacement

Refer to illustrations 11.5, 11.7, 11.8, 11.13and 11.15Note: Broken valve springs and defective

valve stem seals can be replaced withoutremoving the cylinder heads. Two specialtools and a compressed air source are nor-mally required to perform this operation, soread through this Section carefully and rent orbuy the tools before beginning the job.1 Remove the appropriate valve cover(see Section 3).2 Remove the rocker arm assemblies (seeSection 9).3 Remove the spark plugs from that head(see Chapter 1 if necessary).4 Turn the crankshaft until the piston inthe affected cylinder is at Top Dead Centeron the compression stroke (refer to Chap-ter 2C). If you're replacing all of the valvestem seals, begin with cylinder number oneand work on the valves for one cylinder at ati me. Move from cylinder-to-cylinder follow-ing the firing order sequence (see this Chap-ter's Specifications).5 Thread an adapter into the spark plughole (see illustration) and connect an airhose from a compressed air source to it.

11 Valve springs, retainers and seals Most auto parts stores can supply the airhose adapter. Note: Many cylinder compres-sion gauges utilize a screw-in fitting that maywork with your air hose quick-disconnect fit-ting.6 Apply compressed air to the cylinder.Warning: The piston may be forced down by

Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 2B-13

11.8 Cut-away view of the valve seal andspring components

compressed air, causing the crankshaft toturn suddenly. If the wrench used when posi-tioning the number one piston at TDC is stillattached to the crankshaft pulley bolt, it couldcause damage or injury when the crankshaftmoves.7 Stuff clean shop rags into the cylinderhead holes above and below the valves toprevent parts and tools from falling into theengine, then use a valve spring compressortool to compress the spring. Remove thekeepers with small, needle-nose pliers or amagnet (see illustration).8 Remove the spring retainer and valvespring. Next, using pliers remove the valveguide seal and then lift off spring seat (seeillustration). Caution: If air pressure fails tohold the valve in the closed position duringthis operation, the valve face and/or seat isprobably damaged. If so, the cylinder headwill have to be removed for additional repairoperations.9 Wrap a rubber band or tape around thetop of the valve stem so the valve won't fallinto the combustion chamber, then releasethe air pressure.10 Inspect the valve stem for damage.Rotate the valve in the guide and check theend for eccentric movement, which wouldindicate that the valve is bent.11 Move the valve up-and-down in theguide and make sure it doesn't bind. If thevalve stem binds, either the valve is bent orthe guide is damaged. In either case, thehead will have to be removed for repair.12 Pull up on the valve stem to close thevalve, reapply air pressure to the cylinder toretain the valve in the closed position, thenremove the tape or rubber band from thevalve stem.13 Install the valve spring seat. Lubricatethe valve stem with clean engine oil andplace the new valve guide seal. Tap it intoplace with deep socket (see illustration).14 Install the spring in position over thevalve.15 Install the valve spring retainer. Com-press the valve spring and carefully positionthe keepers in the groove. Apply a small dabof grease to the inside of each keeper to hold

11.13 Gently tap the new seal onto thevalve guide with a hammer and

deep socket

it in place if necessary (see illustration).16 Remove the pressure from the springtool and make sure the keepers are seated.17 Disconnect the air hose and remove theadapter from the spark plug hole. Repeat theprocedure for any other defective valves.18 Install the rocker arm assemblies (seeSection 9).19 Install the spark plug and connect thewire(s).20 Install the valve cover (see Section 3).21 Start and run the engine, then check foroil leaks and unusual sounds coming fromthe valve cover area.

12 Cylinder head - removal andinstallation

Caution: Allow the engine to cool completelybefore beginning this procedure.

RemovalRefer to illustrations 12.11, 12.18, 12.19a and12.19b1 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Position the number one piston at TopDead Center (see Chapter 2C).3 Remove the upper and lower intakemanifolds (see Section 4).4 Drain the cooling system, remove thespark plugs and spark plug wires (see Chap-ter 1). Note: Leave the plug wires attached tothe distributor cap.5 If you are removing the right (rear) cylin-der head, remove the distributor (see Chap-ter 5).6 Remove the thermostat housing fromthe rear of the cylinder heads (see Chapter 3).7 Remove rocker arm shaft assemblies(see Section 9).8 If you are removing the right (rear) cylin-der head, remove the bolts securing thepower steering reservoir and hoses to thecylinder head and position them out of the

11.15 Apply a small dab of grease to eachkeeper before installation to hold it in

place on the valve stem until the springis released

way (see Chapter 10).9 Disconnect the power steering pumpbracket from the engine (see Chapter 10).10 Remove the exhaust manifold(s) (seeSection 5).11 If you are removing the left (front) cylin-der head, remove the EGR solenoid/trans-ducer assembly and EGR valve from the rearof the cylinder head (see illustration).12 Remove the timing belt (see Section 6).13 Remove camshaft sprocket(s) (see Sec-tion 8).14 Clearly label and disconnect any hoses,li nes, brackets or electrical connections thatmay interfere with cylinder head removal.15 Loosen the cylinder head bolts, 1/4-turnat a time, in the reverse order of the tighten-ing sequence (see illustration 12.24) untilthey can be removed by hand.16 Carefully lift the cylinder head straightup and place it on wood blocks to preventdamage to the sealing surfaces. If the headsticks to the engine block, dislodge it byplacing a wood block against the head cast-

12.11 EGR solenoid/transducer assembly(upper arrow) and EGR valve (lower arrow)

- remove the EGR solenoid/transducerand engine lifting bracket as an assembly

2B

2B-14 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine

STRETCHEDBOLT

UNSTRETCHED BOLT

12.18 Place a precision straightedge along the cylinder head boltthread profile as shown, if any part of the bolt threads are not on

the straightedge, the bolt is stretched and must be replaced12.19a Checking the cylinder head-to-engine block gasket

surface for warpage

12.19b Checking the engine block head gasket surfacefor warpage

12.22 When installing the head gasket onto the block, make sureall passages in the block align with the holes in the gasket

ing and tapping the wood with a hammer orby prying the head with a prybar placed care-fully on a casting protrusion. Note: If furtherdisassembly of the cylinder head is required,refer to Part C of this Chapter.17 Remove all traces of old gasket materialfrom the block and head. Special gasketremoval solvents that soften gaskets andmake removal much easier are available atauto parts stores. Caution: The cylinder headis aluminum, be very careful not to gouge thesealing surfaces. When working on the block,place clean shop rags into the cylinders tohelp keep out debris. Use a vacuum toremove any contamination from the engine.Use a tap of the correct size to chase thethreads in the engine block. Clean andinspect all threaded fasteners for damage.18 Inspect the cylinder head bolt threadsfor "necking," where the diameter of threadsnarrow due to bolt stretching (see illustra-tion). If any cylinder head bolt exhibits dam-age or necking, it must be replaced.19 Using a precision straightedge andfeeler gauge, check all gasket surfaces forwarpage (see illustrations). If the warpageon any surface exceeds the limits listed inthis Chapter's Specifications, the discrepantcomponent must be replaced or resurfacedby an automotive machine shop.20 Refer to Part C of this Chapter for clean-ing and inspection of the cylinder head.

12.23 Install the head bolt washersas shown

InstallationRefer to illustrations 12.22, 12.23 and 12.2421 Install the camshaft(s) if removed (seeSection 10).22 Place a new gasket on the engine block(see illustration). Use no sealer unless indi-cated by the gasket manufacturer. Note anydirections printed on the gasket such as"Front" or "This side up." Place the cylinderhead(s) in position on the engine block.23 Install the washers onto the cylinderhead bolts as shown (see illustration). Applyclean engine oil to the cylinder head boltthreads and install them into the cylinderhead.24 Tighten the cylinder head bolts in thesequence shown (see illustration) progress-

12.24 Cylinder head boltTIGHTENING sequence

ing in three stages to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications.25 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal.26 Refill the cooling system and check allfluid levels (see Chapter 1 if necessary).27 Start the engine and let it run until nor-mal operating temperature is reached. Checkfor leaks and proper operation.

Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 2B-15

13.5 Engine oil dipstick tube mountingbolt (arrow) - exhaust manifold heat shield

removed for clarity

13.10 If the pan is stuck, tap it with a soft-face hammer or place a wood block

against the pan and tap the wood blockwith a hammer to jar it loose

13.11a Lower the front of the oil pan toaccess the oil pump pick-up tube and

remove the mounting bolts .. .

2B

13.11 b . . . then remove the oil pump pick up tube fromthe pump body

13.12 With the oil pump pick up tube removed, the oil pan canthen be withdrawn over the engine support module (arrow)

13 Oil pan - removal and installation

RemovalRefer to illustrations 13.5, 13.10, 13.11a,13.11b, 13.12, 13.13a and 13.13b

1 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands.3 Remove the accessory drivebelt splashshield (see Chapter 1).4 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1).5 Remove the dipstick tube (see illustra-tion).6 Remove the starter motor (see Chap-ter 5).7 Remove the engine-to-transmissionsupport brackets.8 Remove the exhaust manifold cross-over pipe (see Section 5).9 Remove the transaxle inspection cover.10 Remove the mounting bolts and sepa-rate the oil pan from the engine block enoughto facilitate oil pump pickup tube removal. Ifthe pan is stuck, tap it with a soft-face ham-mer (see illustration) or place a wood block

13.13a Thoroughly clean the oil pan andengine block gasket surfaces with ascraper to remove all traces of old

gasket material

against the pan and tap the wood block witha hammer. Caution: If you're wedging some-thing between the oil pan and the engineblock to separate them, be extremely carefulnot to gouge or nick the gasket surface ofeither part; an oil leak could result.11 Remove the oil pump pickup tube and

screen assembly (see illustrations).12 Remove the oil pan from the vehicle(see illustration).13 Thoroughly clean all gasket sealing sur-faces. Use a scraper to remove all traces ofold gasket material (see illustrations). Gas-ket removal solvents are available at autoparts stores and may prove helpful. Checkthe oil pan sealing surface for distortion.

13.13b Remove the old gasket from theoil pump pick up tube

2B-16 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine

13.14 Apply a 1/8-inch bead of RTVsealant to the oil pan sealing surface as

shown - stay on the inside of thebolt holes

Straighten or replace as necessary. Aftercleaning and straightening (if necessary),wipe the gasket surfaces of the pan and

block clean with a rag soaked in lacquer thin-ner or acetone.

InstallationRefer to illustration 13.1414 Apply a 1/8-inch bead of RTV sealant tothe oil pan as shown (see illustration). Alsoapply a light coating of RTV sealant to theunderside of the oil pan bolt heads.15 Place the oil pan into position under theengine block and install the oil pump pick-uptube. Tighten the bolts to the torque listed inthis Chapter's Specifications.16 Place the oil pan against the engineblock and install the bolts. Working from thecenter and proceeding outward in a criss-cross pattern, tighten the oil pan bolts to thetorque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.17 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal.18 Lower the vehicle and fill the crankcasewith the proper quantity and grade of engineoil (see Recommended lubricants and fluidsat the beginning of Chapter 1) and run theengine, checking for leaks. Road test thevehicle and check for leaks again.

14 Oil pump - removal, inspectionand installation

RemovalRefer to illustrations 14.7, 14.8, 14.9 and14.101 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands.3 Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter 1).4 Remove the timing belt (see Section 6)and crankshaft sprocket and Woodruff key(see Section 7).5 Remove the oil pan (see Section 13).6 If equipped, remove the air conditioningcompressor bracket from the engine andposition it out of the way.7 Remove the bolts and detach the oilpump assembly from the engine (see illus-tration). Caution: If the pump doesn't comeoff by hand, tap it gently with a soft-facedhammer or pry on a casting boss.8 Remove the oil filter passage 0-ring

14.7 Remove the oil pump assembly mounting bolts (arrows) anddetach it from the engine - bolt (A) also secures the air

conditioning compressor bracket (if equipped)

14.8 The oil filter passage 0-ring seals (arrows) may remainedattached to the engine block

14.9 Remove the rotor cover mounting screws (arrows)14.10 The alignment mark has worn off the inner rotor on this oilpump; in this case we'll use a permanent marker to match-mark

the rotors for reinstallation - oil pressure relief cap bolt (A)

Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 2B-17

14.16a Install the rotors into the oil pumpbody with the match marks aligned 14.16b Use a feeler gauge to measure the

inner rotor-to-outer rotor lobe clearance14.16c Measuring the outer rotor-to-

pump body clearance

seals and discard them. They may stick tothe engine block as shown (see illustration)or remain in the oil pump housing.9 Remove the oil pump rotor cover (seeillustration).10 New rotors are manufactured witharrows on them which are aligned at installa-tion. If both arrows are not clearly visible (seeillustration), use a permanent marker tomatch-mark the rotors so they can beinstalled back in their original position.Remove the inner and outer rotor from thebody. Caution: Be very careful with thesecomponents. Close tolerances are critical increating the correct oil pressure. Any nicks orother damage will require replacement of thecomplete pump assembly.11 Using a hammer and drift, carefully andevenly drive the crankshaft front seal from theoil pump housing and discard it.12 Disassemble the oil pressure relief valveassembly, taking note of the way the reliefvalve piston is installed. Unscrew the cap boltand remove the bolt, washer, spring andrelief valve (see illustration 14.10).13 Thoroughly clean all gasket sealing sur-faces. Use a scraper to remove all traces ofold gasket material. Gasket removal solvents

are available at auto parts stores and mayprove helpful. Check the oil pan sealing sur-face for distortion. Straighten or replace asnecessary. After removing the residual gasketmaterial, wipe the gasket surfaces of the oilpan and block clean with a rag soaked in lac-quer thinner or acetone.

InspectionRefer to illustrations 14.16a, 14.16b, 14.16c,and 14.16d14 Clean all oil pump components with sol-vent and inspect them for excessive wearand/or damage. Replace as required. Note: ifeither rotor is damaged, they must bereplaced as a set.15 Inspect the oil pressure relief valve pis-ton sliding surface and valve spring for dam-age. Note: If either the spring or the valve isdamaged, they must be replacedas a set.16 Install the rotors into the pump housingwith the match-marks aligned (see illustra-tion). Check the oil pump rotor clearancesusing a precision straightedge and feelergauges (see illustrations). Compare theresults to the tolerances listed in this Chap-ter's Specifications. Replace both rotors ifany clearance is out of tolerance.

InstallationRefer to illustration 14.1917 Lubricate the relief valve piston, pistonbore and spring with clean engine oil. Installthe relief valve piston into the bore maintain-ing original orientation followed by the springand cap bolt. Tighten the cap bolt to thetorque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.Note: If the relief valve piston is installedincorrectly, serious engine damage couldoccur.18 Lubricate the oil pump rotor recess inthe housing and the inner and outer rotorswith clean engine oil. Install the rotors into thepump housing with the match-marks aligned(see illustration 14.16a). Next, fill the rotorcavity with clean engine oil and install thecover. Tighten the cover screws to the torqueli sted in this Chapter's Specifications.19 Install new 0-ring seals in the oil pumppassages located on the pump body (seeillustration). If necessary, apply a light coat-ing of grease on the 0-rings to hold them inplace.20 Install the new crankshaft front seal intothe oil pump housing (see Section 7).21 Apply a 1/8 inch bead of anaerobicsealant to the oil pump body sealing surface,

2B

14.16d Place a precision straightedge over the rotors andmeasure the clearance between the rotors and the straightedge

to determine the rotor-to-cover clearance14.19 Install new 0-ring seals on the oil filter passages (arrows)

2B-18 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine

15.5 Remove the flywheel/driveplate from the crankshaft16.3 Carefully pry the crankshaft seal out of the bore - DO NOT

nick or scratch the crankshaft or seal bore

and position the pump assembly on the blockaligning the inner rotor and crankshaft driveflats. Install the mounting bolts.22 If equipped, install the air conditioningbracket onto the engine (one bolt securesboth the air conditioning bracket and the oilpump housing).23 Tighten the oil pump attaching bolts(see illustration 14.7) to the torque listed inthis Chapter's Specifications.24 Install the Woodruff key, crankshaft tim-ing belt sprocket (see Section 7) and timingbelt (see Section 6).25 Install the oil pan (see Section 13).26 If applicable, install a new oil filter (seeChapter 1).27 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal.28 Lower the vehicle and fill the crankcasewith the proper quantity and grade of oil (seeRecommended lubricants and fluids Sectionin Chapter 1).29 Connect the negative battery cable tothe ground stud.30 After the sealant has cured per the man-ufacturer's directions, start the engine andcheck for leaks.

15 Driveplate - removal andinstallation

RemovalRefer to illustration 15.51 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands.2 Remove the transaxle assembly (seeChapter 7).3 To ensure correct alignment during rein-stallation, match-mark the backing plate anddriveplate to the crankshaft before removal.4 Remove the bolts securing the drive-plate to the crankshaft. A tool is available amost auto parts stores to hold the driveplatewhile loosening the bolts, if the tool is notavailable, wedge a screwdriver in the ringgear teeth to jam the driveplate.5 Remove the driveplate from the crank-shaft (see illustration).6 Clean the driveplate to remove any

grease and oil. Inspect it for cracks, distortionand missing or excessively worn ring gearteeth. Replace if necessary.7 Clean and inspect the mating surfacesof the driveplate and the crankshaft. Checkthe crankshaft rear main seal for leakage; ifleakage is evident replace it before rein-stalling the driveplate (see Section 16).

Installation8 Position the driveplate and backingplate against the crankshaft. Align the previ-ously applied match marks. Before installingthe bolts, apply thread locking compound tothe threads.9 Hold the driveplate with the specialholding tool, or wedge a screwdriver in thering gear teeth to keep the driveplate fromturning as you tighten the bolts to the torqueli sted in this Chapter's Specifications.10 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal.

16 Rear main oil seal - replacement

Refer to illustrations 16.3, 16.6 and 16.121 The crankshaft rear main oil seal ispressed into a retainer and bolted to the rearof the engine block.2 Remove the driveplate (see Section 15).3 The crankshaft rear main oil seal can berenewed without removing the oil pan or sealretainer. However, this method is NOT recom-mended because the lip of the seal is quitestiff and it's possible to cock the seal in theretainer bore or damage it during installation.If you want to take the chance, carefully andevenly pry out the old seal using a 3/16 flatblade screwdriver - do not to damage thecrankshaft sealing surface (see illustration).Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to thecrankshaft seal journal and the lip of the newseal then carefully tap the new seal into placeusing a hammer and socket. The seal lip isstiff, so carefully work it onto the seal journalof the crankshaft with a smooth object like therounded end of a socket extension as you tapthe seal into place (see illustration 16.12).Don't force it or you may damage the seal.

16.6 With the seal retainer supported onwood blocks, use a hammer and drift to

drive the seal out of the retainer

4 The following method is recommendedand requires removal of the oil pan (see Sec-tion 13).5 Remove the mounting bolts from thecrankshaft rear seal retainer and separate theretainer from the engine block.6 Using a hammer and drift, carefully drivethe old seal out of the retainer and discard it(see illustration).7 Thoroughly clean all gasket sealing sur-faces. Use a scraper to remove all traces ofold gasket material. Gasket removal solventsare available at auto parts stores and mayprove helpful. Check the oil pan sealing sur-face for distortion. Straighten or replace asnecessary. After removing the residual gasketmaterial, wipe the gasket surfaces cleanusing a rag soaked in lacquer thinner or ace-tone.8 Thoroughly clean and inspect the sealbore and sealing surface on the crankshaft.Minor imperfections can be removed withfine emery cloth. If there is a groove worn inthe crankshaft sealing surface (from contactwith the seal), installing a new seal will proba-bly not stop the leak.9 Install the new seal into the retainerusing a socket (or block of wood) and a ham-mer. Drive it in until it's flush with the retainer.

Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 2B-19

16.12 Using a rounded object like a socket extension, carefullywork the seal onto the crankshaft

17.9a Front engine mount (arrow) - exhaust manifoldremoved for clarity

10 Apply a 1/8 inch bead of RTV sealant tothe retainer gasket sealing surface.11 Lubricate the lip of the new seal and thecrankshaft sealing surface with a light coat ofclean engine oil.12 Place the seal retainer in position on theengine block and install the mounting bolts.The seal lip is stiff, so carefully work it ontothe seal journal of the crankshaft with asmooth object like the rounded end of asocket extension as you tap the seal intoplace (see illustration). Don't force it or youmay damage the seal. Tighten the bolts to thetorque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.13 Install the oil pan (see Section 13).14 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal.

17 Engine mounts - check andreplacement

1 Engine mounts seldom require atten-tion, but broken or deteriorated mountsshould be replaced immediately or the addedstrain placed on the driveline componentsmay cause damage or wear.

Check2 During the check, the engine must be

raised slightly to relieve the weight from themounts.3 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands, then position a jack under theengine oil pan. Place a large wood blockbetween the jack head and the oil pan to pre-vent oil pan damage, then carefully raise theengine just enough to take the weight off themounts. Warning: DO NOT place any part ofyour body under the engine when it's sup-ported only by a jack!4 Inspect the mounts to see if the rubberis cracked, hardened or separated from themetal backing. Sometimes the rubber willsplit right down the center.5 Check for relative movement betweenthe mount plates and the engine or frame(use a large screwdriver or pry bar to attemptto move the mounts). If movement is noted,lower the engine and tighten the mount fas-teners.6 Rubber preservative may be applied tothe mounts to slow deterioration.

ReplacementRefer to illustrations 17.9a, 17.9b, 17.9c17.9d and 17.9e7 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1). Raise the vehicle

17.9b Rear engine mount - exhaust cross-over pipe removed for clarity

and support it securely on jackstands.8 Place a floor jack under the engine (witha wood block between the jack head and oilpan) and raise the engine slightly to relievethe weight from the mount to be replaced.Note: On 1995 through 1997 models, thelower front engine mount (engine supportmodule) is attached to the lower radiator sup-port. When removing the engine supportmodule, the radiator and air conditioning con-denser (if equipped) must be supported.9 Remove the fasteners and detach the

2B

17.9c Engine support module (arrow) - connects front and rearengine mounts (1995 through 1997 models)

17.9d Right-side engine mount (arrow)

2B-20 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine

mount from the frame and engine (see illus-trations). Caution: Do not disconnect morethan one mount at a time, except duringengine/transaxle removal.10 Installation is the reverse of removal.Use thread locking compound on the mountbolts and be sure to tighten them securely. 17.9e Transaxle

support assemblyand brackets

TRANSMISSIONSUPPORT

ASSEMBLY

TRANSMISSIONTRANSMISSION BRACKET

LEFTFRAME

RAILGROUND

CABLE

Chapter 2 Part CGeneral engine overhaul proceduresContents

SectionBalance shafts (2.4L four-cylinder engines only) - removal,

inspection and installation.............................................................. 15Crankshaft inspection.......................................................................... 21Crankshaft installation and main bearing oil

clearance check .............................................................................25Crankshaft removal..............................................................................16Compression check ...............................................................................4Cylinder head - cleaning and inspection ..............................................11Cylinder head - disassembly ................................................................10Cylinder head - reassembly................................................................. 13Cylinder honing .................................................................................... 19Engine block - cleaning........................................................................17Engine block - inspection.....................................................................18Engine overhaul - disassembly sequence ............................................. 9Engine overhaul - general information ................................................... 2Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence .............................................23

SectionEngine rebuilding alternatives................................................................8Engine - removal and installation ...........................................................7Engine removal - methods and precautions ..........................................6General information ................................................................................1Initial start-up and break-in after overhaul ...........................................27Main and connecting rod bearings - inspection .................................. 22Piston rings - installation......................................................................24Pistons and connecting rods - inspection ........................................... 20Pistons and connecting rods - installation and

rod bearing oil clearance check ..................................................... 26Pistons and connecting rods - removal ...............................................14Rear main oil seal - installation.......................................See Chapter 2BTop Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston - locating .....................3Vacuum gauge diagnostic checks.........................................................5Valves - servicing ................................................................................. 12 2C

Specifications

Four-cylinder enginesGeneralBore.........................................................................................................Stroke

2.0L....................................................................................................2.4L....................................................................................................

Displacement2.0L....................................................................................................2.4L....................................................................................................

Compression ratio2.0L....................................................................................................2.4L....................................................................................................

Compression pressure ............................................................................Firing order..............................................................................................Oil pressure

At idle speed......................................................................................At 3000 rpm........................................................................................

Cylinder head warpageHead gasket surface..........................................................................Intake/exhaust manifold mounting surfaces ......................................

Valves and related componentsFace angle

2.0L....................................................................................................2.4L....................................................................................................

Seat angle ................................................................................................Valve margin width

2.0LIntake............................................................................................Exhaust.........................................................................................

2.4LIntake............................................................................................Exhaust.........................................................................................

3.4446 to 3.4452 inches

3.268 inches3.976 inches

122 cubic inches148 cubic inches

9.8:19.4:1170 to 225 psi1-3-4-2

4 psi (minimum)25 to 80 psi

0.004 inch maximum0.006 inch maximum

45 to 45-1/2 degrees44-1/2 to 45 degrees45 degrees

0.0452 to 0.0582 inch0.058 to 0.071 inch

0.050 to 0.063 inch0.038 to 0.051 inch

2C-2 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

Four-cylinder engines (continued)Valves and related componentsValve spring

Out of square limit...................................................................................... 1/16 inchFree length (approximate)

2.0L........................................................................................................1.747 inches2.4L.................................................................................. ....................1.905 inches

Installed height2.0L........................................................................................................1.580 inches2.4L........................................................................................................1.496 inches

Valve stem diameterIntake..........................................................................................................0.234 to 0.235 inchExhaust .......................................................................................................0.233 to 0.234 inch

Valve stem-to-guide clearanceIntake..........................................................................................................0.0018 to 0.0025 inchExhaust.......................................................................................................0.0029 to 0.0037 inch

Valve stem tip-to-spring seat surface height (valve installed - 2.0L only)1995 and 1996

Intake.....................................................................................................1.891 inchesExhaust..................................................................................................1.889 inches

1997 onIntake.....................................................................................................1.77 to 1.81 inchesExhaust..................................................................................................1.71 to 1.75 inches

Crankshaft and connecting rodsCrankshaft connecting rod journal

Diameter2.0L........................................................................................................1.8894 to 1.8900 inches2.4L........................................................................................................1.967 to 1.9685 inches

Taper and Out-of-round limit ......................................................................0.0001 inch (maximum)Connecting rod bearing oil clearance ..............................................................0.001 to 0.0025 inchConnecting rod endplay (side clearance) .........................................................0.005 to 0.015 inchCrankshaft main bearing journal

Diameter2.0L....................................................................................................... 2.0469 to 2.0475 inches2.4L....................................................................................................... 2.3610 to 2.3625 inches

Taper and out-of-round limits.....................................................................0.0001 inchCrankshaft main bearing oil clearance .............................................................0.008 to 0.0024 inchCrankshaft end play.........................................................................................0.0035 to 0.0094 inch

Engine blockCylinder bore diameter.................................................................................... 3.4446 to 3.4452 inchesCylinder taper and out-of-round limits .............................................................0.002 inch

Pistons and piston ringsPiston diameter (nominal)' ............................................................................... 3.4434 to 3.4441 inchesPiston-to-bore clearance*

2.0L1995 .......................................................................................................0.0002 to 0.0015 inch1996 on................................................................................................. 0.0004 to 0.0017 inch

2.4L .............................................................................................................0.0009 to 0.0022 inchPiston ring side clearance

2.0LBoth compression rings........................................................................ 0.0010 to 0.0026 inchOil ring (pack).........................................................................................0.0002 to 0.0070 inch

2.4LBoth compression rings........................................................................0.0011 to 0.0031 inchOil ring (pack)........................................................................................ 0.0004 to 0.0070 inch

Piston ring end gap2.0L

Number 1 (top) compression ring..........................................................0.009 to 0.020 inchNumber 2 compression ring ..................................................................0.019 to 0.031 inchOil control ring (side rails)......................................................................0.009 to 0.026 inch

2.4LNumber 1 (top) compression ring..........................................................0.0098 to 0.020 inchNumber 2 compression ring..................................................................0.009 to 0.018 inchOil control ring (side rails)......................................................................0.0098 to 0.025 inch

"Measured 11/16-inch up from the bottom of the piston skirt on 2.0L engines and 9/16-inch up from the bottom of the piston skirt on 2.4L engines.

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-3

Torque specifications** Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)Balance shaft carrier-to-engine bolts.............................................................. 40Balance shaft chain tensioner and guide fasteners.........................................105 in-lbsBalance shaft gear cover stud (double-ended) ................................................105 in-lbsBalance shaft rear cover bolts......................................................................... 105 in-lbsBalance shaft sprocket bolts ........................................................................... 250 in-lbsMain bearing cap assembly bolts

2.0LMain cap bolts (Ml 1) .............................................................................60Bedplate bolts (M8)............................................................................... 22

2.4LMain cap bolts (M11)

Step 1............................................................................................... 30Step 2.............................................................................................. Tighten an additional 90-degrees (1/4 turn)

Bedplate bolts (M8) ...............................................................................250 in-lbsConnecting rod cap bolts

Step 1..........................................................................................................20Step 2......................................................................................................... Tighten an additional 90-degrees (1/4 turn)

"Note: Refer to Chapter 2 Part A for additional torque specifications.

V6 engineGeneralBore..................................................................................................................3.29 inchesStroke...............................................................................................................2.992 inchesDisplacement................................................................................................... 152 cubic inches (2.5 liters)Firing order .......................................................................................................1-2-3-4-5-6Compression ratio............................................................................................9.4:1Compression pressure.....................................................................................178 psi @ 250 rpmOil pressure

At idle speed ...............................................................................................6 psi (minimum)At 3000 rpm................................................................................................ 35 to 75 psi

Valves and related componentsFace angle........................................................................................................45 to 45-1/2 degreesSeat angle........................................................................................................44 to 44-1/2 degreesValve margin width

IntakeStandard................................................................................................0.039 inchService limit ...........................................................................................0.019 inch

ExhaustStandard................................................................................................0.047 inchService limit...........................................................................................0.028 inch

Valve stem diameter ........................................................................................ 0.236 inchValve stem-to-guide clearance

IntakeStandard................................................................................................0.0008 to 0.0020 inchService limit...........................................................................................0.004 inch

ExhaustStandard................................................................................................0.0016 to 0.0028 inchService limit ...........................................................................................0.006 inch

Valve springFree length (approximate) ...........................................................................2.01 inches

Service limit ...........................................................................................1.97 inchesInstalled height ............................................................................................1.74 inches

Crankshaft and connecting rodscrankshaft connecting rod journal

Diameter..................................................................................................... 1.968 to 1.969 inchesOut-of-round limit .......................................................................................0.001 inch (maximum)Taper limit...................................................................................................0.0002 inch (maximum)

Connecting rod bearing oil clearance1995 through 1997..................................................................................... 0.0008 to 0.0028 inch1998 on.......................................................................................................0.0006 to 0.0018 inch

connecting rod endplay (side clearance)Standard..................................................................................................... 0.004 to 0.010 inchService limit................................................................................................ 0.016 inch

2C

2C-4 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

V6 engine (continued)Crankshaft and connecting rodsCrankshaft main bearing journal

Diameter.....................................................................................................2.361 to 2.362 inchestaper and out-of-round limits ......................................................................0.0001 inch

Crankshaft end playStandard.....................................................................................................0.002 to 0.010 inchService limit................................................................................................ 0.012 inch

Crankshaft main bearing oil clearanceStandard.....................................................................................................0.0008 to 0.0016 inchService limit................................................................................................ 0.0039 inch

Engine blockCylinder bore diameter .................................................................................... 3.29 inchesFlatness of top surface.................................................................................... 0.002 inch

Service limit................................................................................................ 0.004 inch

Pistons and piston ringsPiston diameter (nominal)* ............................................................................... 3.29 inchesPiston-to-bore clearance.................................................................................0.0008 to 0.0016 inchPiston ring side clearance

Number 1 (top) compression ringStandard................................................................................................0.0012 to 0.0028 inchService limit...........................................................................................0.004 inch

Number 2 compression ringStandard................................................................................................0.0007 to 0.0024 inchService limit...........................................................................................0.004 inch

Oil control ring .............................................................................................Loose fitPiston ring end gap

Number 1 (top) compression ringStandard................................................................................................0.010 to 0.016 inchService limit ...........................................................................................0.031 inch

Number 2 compression ringStandard................................................................................................0.016 to 0.022 inchService limit ...........................................................................................0.031 inch

Oil control ring (side rails)Standard................................................................................................0.006 to 0.019 inchService limit ...........................................................................................0.039 inch

*Measured 0.080 inch up from the bottom of the piston skirt.

Torque specifications** Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)Main bearing cap bolts .................................................................................... 69Connecting rod cap nuts................................................................................. 38**Note: Refer to Part B of this Chapter for additional torque specifications.

1 General information

Included in this portion of Chapter 2 arethe general overhaul procedures for the cylin-der head and internal engine components.The information ranges from advice concern-ing preparation for an overhaul and the pur-chase of replacement parts to detailed, step-by-step procedures covering removal andinstallation of internal engine componentsand the inspection of parts.

The following Sections have been writtenbased on the assumption that the engine hasbeen removed from the vehicle. For informa-tion concerning in-vehicle engine repair, aswell as removal and installation of the externalcomponents necessary for the overhaul, seethe applicable Part of this Chapter. For infor-mation on determining models and enginenumbers, refer to the Vehicle IdentificationNumbers at the beginning of this manual.

The Specifications included in this Partare only those necessary for the inspection

and overhaul procedures which follow. Referto Part A or B for additional Specifications asapplicable.

2 Engine overhaul - generalinformation

Refer to illustration 2.4It's not always easy to determine when, or

if, an engine should be completely overhauled,as a number of factors must be considered.

High mileage is not necessarily an indi-cation that an overhaul is needed, while lowmileage doesn't preclude the need for anoverhaul. Frequency of servicing is probablythe most important consideration. An enginethat's had regular and frequent oil and filterchanges, as well as other required mainte-nance, will most likely give many thousandsof miles of reliable service. Conversely, aneglected engine may require an overhaulvery early in its life.

Excessive oil consumption is an indica-

tion that piston rings, valve seals andlor valveguides are in need of attention. Make surethat oil leaks aren't responsible before decid-ing that the rings andlor guides are bad. Per-form a compression check to determine theextent of the work required (see Section 4).

Check the oil pressure with a gaugeinstalled in place of the oil pressure sendingunit, located above the oil filter (see illustra-tion), and compare the pressure to the pres-sure listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Ifit's extremely low, the bearings andlor oilpump are probably worn out.

Loss of power, rough running, knockingor metallic engine noises, excessive valvetrain noise and high fuel consumption ratesmay also point to the need for an overhaul,especially if they're all present at the sametime. If a complete tune-up doesn't remedythe situation, major mechanical work is theonly solution.

An engine overhaul involves restoringthe internal parts to the specifications of anew engine. During an overhaul, the piston

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-5

2.4 The engine oil pressure sending unitis located above the oil filter (V6 engine

shown, four-cylinder engine similar)

rings are replaced and the cylinder walls arereconditioned (rebored andlor honed). If a re-bore is done by an automotive machine shop,new oversize pistons will also be installed.The main bearings, connecting rod bearingsand camshaft bearings are generally replacedwith new ones and, if necessary, thecrankshaft may be reground to restore thejournals. Generally, the valves are serviced aswell, since they're usually in less-than-perfectcondition at this point. While the engine isbeing overhauled, other components, suchas the distributor, starter and alternator, canbe rebuilt as well. The end result should be ali ke-new engine that will give many troublefree miles. Note: Critical cooling system com-ponents such as the hoses, drivebelts, ther-mostat and water pump MUST be replacedwith new parts when an engine is overhauled.The radiator should be checked carefully toensure that it isn't clogged or leaking (seeChapter 3). Also, we don't recommend over-hauling the oil pump - always install a newone when an engine is rebuilt.

Before beginning the engine overhaul,read through the entire procedure to familiar-ize yourself with the scope and requirementsof the job. Overhauling an engine isn't diffi-cult, but it is time consuming. Plan on thevehicle being tied up for a minimum of twoweeks, especially if parts must be taken to anautomotive machine shop for repair or recon-ditioning. Check on availability of parts andmake sure that any necessary special toolsand equipment are obtained in advance.Most work can be done with typical handtools, although a number of precision mea-suring tools are required for inspecting partsto determine if they must be replaced. Oftenan automotive machine shop will handle theinspection of parts and offer advice concern-ing reconditioning and replacement. Note:Always wait until the engine has been com-pletely disassembled and all components,especially the engine block, have beeninspected before deciding what service andrepair operations must be performed by an

automotive machine shop. Since the block'scondition will be the major factor to considerwhen determining whether to overhaul theoriginal engine or buy a rebuilt one, neverpurchase parts or have machine work doneon other components until the block has beenthoroughly inspected. As a general rule, timeis the primary cost of an overhaul, so it does-n't pay to install worn or sub-standard parts.

As a final note, to ensure maximum lifeand minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine,everything must be assembled with care in aspotlessly clean environment.

3 Top Dead Center (TDC) fornumber one piston - locating

Note: The crankshaft timing marks on theseengines aren't visible until after the timing beltcover(s) have been removed.1 Top Dead Center (TDC) is the highestpoint in the cylinder that each piston reachesas it travels up-and-down when thecrankshaft rotates. Each piston reaches TDCon the compression stroke and again on theexhaust stroke, but TDC generally refers tothe piston position on the compressionstroke. The cast-in timing mark on thecrankshaft timing belt sprocket installed onthe front of the crankshaft is referenced tothe number 1 piston. When the mark on thecrankshaft timing belt sprocket is alignedwith the cast-in timing mark on the oil pumphousing and the timing marks on thecamshaft sprockets align with their respec-tive marks (see Section 6 of the appropriatePart of this Chapter), the number 1 piston isat TDC on the compression stroke.2 In order to bring any piston to TDC, thecrankshaft must be rotated manually. Whenlooking at the front of the engine (drivebeltend), normal crankshaft rotation is clockwise.DO NOT rotate the engine counterclockwiseas the crankshaft timing belt sprocket mayjump a tooth, requiring timing belt removal.3 The preferred method is to turn thecrankshaft with a large socket and breaker barattached to the crankshaft damperlpulley boltthat is threaded into the front of the crankshaft.4 Remove all (accessible) spark plugs asthis will make it easier to rotate the engine byhand (see Chapter 1 if necessary). Note: OnV6 engines, the spark plugs for cylinders 1, 3and 5 are located under the upper intakemanifold and not easily accessible. Unlessthey are required to be removed, dependingon what procedure you are performing, leavethem installed.5 Disconnect the battery cable from theremote negative battery terminal.6 Remove the accessory drivebelt splashshield (see Chapter 1) to gain access to thecrankshaft damperlpulley bolt.

Four-cylinder enginesRefer to illustration 3.97 Install a compression gauge (screw-intype with a hose) in the number 1 cylinder

spark plug hole. Place the gauge dial whereyou can see it while turning the crankshaftdamperlpulley bolt. Note: On 4 cylinderengines the number 1 cylinder is located atthe front (drivebelt end) of the engine.8 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until yousee compression building up on the gauge -indicating you are on the compression stroke.9 On 2.0L engines, remove the accesshole plug on the timing belt cover (see illus-tration). Slowly turn the crankshaft until thecamshaft sprocket timing mark is visiblethrough the access hole. Using a flashlight,look inside the access hole to locate thecamshaft timing mark on the timing belt rearcover. Slowly rotate the crankshaft clockwiseas required until the timing mark on thecamshaft sprocket aligns with the arrow onthe timing belt rear cover. The crankshaft isnow located at number 1 piston TDC on thecompression stroke. Note: If you turn thecrankshaft too far, it will be necessary torotate the crankshaft clockwise 1-3/4 turns toapproach the compression stroke again.10 On 2.4L engines, remove the timing beltupper cover (see Chapter 2A, Section 6).Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until thecamshaft sprocket timing marks are aligned(see illustration 6.9b in Chapter 2 Part A).The crankshaft is now located at number 1piston TDC on the compression stroke. Note:If you turn the crankshaft too far, it will benecessary to rotate the crankshaft clockwiseapproximately 1-3/4 turns to approach thecompression stroke again.11 After the number 1 piston has been posi-tioned at TDC on the compression stroke,TDC for the remaining pistons can be locatedby turning the crankshaft exactly 180 degrees(1/2 turn) from that position, following thespark plug firing order; i.e. the first 180 degreerotation from number 1 piston TDC will bringthe number 3 cylinder piston to TDC on it'scompression stroke, another 180 degree rota-tion will bring the number 4 cylinder piston toTDC on it's compression stroke, etc.

3.9 2.0L four-cylinder models have anaccess hole in the front timing belt cover

so you can see the camshaft timing markswithout removing the cover

2C

2C-6 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

V6 engineNote: This method assumes that the upperintake manifold is installed, making the num-ber 1 spark plug inaccessible.12 Install a compression gauge (screw-intype with a hose) in the number 6 cylinderspark plug hole. Place the gauge dial whereyou can see it while turning the crankshaftdamperlpulley bolt. Note: The number sixcylinder is located at the rear (transaxle end)of the left cylinder bank (refer to the Specifi-cations in Chapter 1, if necessary).13 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until yousee compression building up on the gauge -indicating you are on the compression stroke.14 Remove the upper left timing belt cover(see illustration 6.6 in Chapter 2 Part B).Note: If the number 6 piston is near TDC, thecamshaft timing mark should be approxi-mately 60 degrees counterclockwise of thetiming mark on the valve cover.15 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until thetiming mark on the left camshaft sprocketlines up with the timing mark on the valvecover (see illustration 6.11a in Chapter 2Part B). The crankshaft is now located atnumber 1 piston TDC on the compressionstroke. Note: If you turn the crankshaft too far,it will be necessary to rotate the crankshaftclockwise approximately 1-3/4 turns toapproach the compression stroke again.16 After the number 1 piston has been posi-tioned at TDC on the compression stroke,TDC for the remaining pistons can be locatedby turning the crankshaft exactly 120 degreesfrom that position, following the spark plug fir-ing order; i.e. the first 120 degree rotationfrom number 1 piston TDC will bring the num-ber 2 cylinder piston to TDC on it's compres-sion stroke, another 120 degree rotation willbring the number 3 cylinder piston to TDC onit's compression stroke, etc.

4 Compression check

Note: On V6 engines it is necessary toremove the upper intake manifold to accessthe right bank of spark plugs, refer to Part Bof this Chapter.1 A compression check will tell you themechanical condition of the upper end (pis-tons, rings, valves, head gasket) of yourengine. Specifically, it can tell you if the com-pression is low due to leakage caused byworn piston rings, defective valves and seatsor a blown head gasket. Note: The enginemust be at normal operating temperature andthe -battery must be fully charged for thischeck to be accurate.2 Begin by cleaning the area around thespark plugs before you remove them (com-pressed air should be used, if available, oth-erwise a small brush or even a bicycle tirepump will work). The idea is to prevent dirtfrom getting into the cylinders as the com-pression check is being performed.3 Remove all of the spark plugs from theengine (Chapter 1).

4 Block the throttle wide open.5 Disable the ignition by disconnecting theprimary (low voltage) wire electrical connec-tor from the ignition coil pack (four-cylinderengines) or the disconnecting the 2 pin con-nector from the distributor (V6 engine) (seeChapter 5).6 Install the compression gauge in thenumber one spark plug hole.7 Crank the engine over at least sevencompression strokes and watch the gauge.The compression should build up quickly in ahealthy engine. Low compression on the firststroke, followed by gradually increasing pres-sure on successive strokes, indicates wornpiston rings. A low compression reading onthe first stroke, which doesn't build up duringsuccessive strokes, indicates leaking valvesor a blown head gasket (a cracked headcould also be the cause). Deposits on theundersides of the valve heads can also causelow compression. Record the highest gaugereading obtained.8 Repeat the procedure for the remainingcylinders and compare the results to theSpecifications in this Chapter.9 Add some engine oil (about three squirtsfrom a plunger-type oil can) to each cylinder,through the spark plug hole, and repeat thetest recording the results.10 If the compression increases after the oilis added, the piston rings are definitely worn.If the compression doesn't increase signifi-cantly, the leakage is occurring at the valvesor head gasket. Leakage past the valves maybe caused by burned valve seat(s), andlorfaces or warped, cracked or bent valve(s).11 If two adjacent cylinders have equallylow compression, there's a strong possibilitythat the head gasket between them is blown.The appearance of coolant in the combustionchambers or the crankcase would verify thiscondition.12 If one cylinder is 20 percent lower thanthe others, and the engine has a slightlyrough idle, a worn exhaust lobe on thecamshaft could be the cause.13 If the compression is unusually high, thecombustion chambers are probably coatedwith carbon deposits. If that's the case, thecylinder head should be removed and de-carbonized.14 If compression is way down or variesgreatly between cylinders, it would be a goodidea to have a leak-down test performed byan automotive repair shop. This test will pin-point exactly where the leakage is occurringand determine how severe it is.

5 Vacuum gauge diagnosticchecks

Refer to illustration 5.61 A vacuum gauge provides valuableinformation about what is going on in theengine at a low-cost. You can check for wornrings or cylinder walls, leaking head or intakemanifold gaskets, restricted exhaust, stuck or

burned valves, weak valve springs, improperignition or valve timing and ignition problems.2 Unfortunately, vacuum gauge readingsare easy to misinterpret, so they should beused in conjunction with other tests to con-firm the diagnosis.3 Both the absolute readings and the rateof needle movement are important for accu-rate interpretation. Most gauges measurevacuum in inches of mercury (in-Hg). The fol-lowing references to vacuum assume thediagnosis is being performed at sea level. Aselevation increases (or atmospheric pressuredecreases), the reading will decrease. Forevery 1,000 foot increase in elevation aboveapproximately 2000 feet, the gauge readingswill decrease about one inch of mercury.4 Connect the vacuum gauge directly tointake manifold vacuum, not to ported (throt-tle-body) vacuum. Be sure no hoses are leftdisconnected during the test or false read-ings will result.5 Before you begin the test, allow theengine to warm up completely. Block thewheels and set the parking brake. With thetransmission in neutral (or Park, on automat-ics), start the engine and allow it to run atnormal idle speed. Warning: Carefullyinspect the fan blades for cracks or damagebefore starting the engine. Keep your handsand the vacuum tester clear of the fan and donot stand in front of the vehicle or in line withthe fans when the engine is running.6 Read the vacuum gauge; an average,healthy engine should normally produceabout 17 to 22 inches of vacuum with a fairlysteady needle. Refer to the following vacuumgauge readings and what they indicate aboutthe engines condition (see illustration).7 A low steady reading usually indicates aleaking gasket between the intake manifoldand throttle body, a leaky vacuum hose, lateignition timing or incorrect camshaft timing.Check ignition timing with a timing light andeliminate all other possible causes, utilizingthe tests provided in this Chapter before youremove the timing belt cover to check thetiming marks.8 If the reading is 3 to 8 inches below nor-mal and it fluctuates at that low reading, sus-pect an intake manifold gasket leak at anintake port or a faulty injector.9 If the needle has regular drops of about 2to 4 inches at a steady rate the valves areprobably leaking. Perform a compression orleak-down test to confirm this.10 An irregular drop or down-flick of theneedle can be caused by a sticking valve oran ignition misfire. Perform a compression orleak-down test. Check the condition of thespark plugs and compare them to the charton the back cover of this manual.11 A rapid vibration of about 4 in-Hg vibra-tion at idle combined with exhaust smokeindicates worn valve guides. Perform a leak-down test to confirm this. If the rapid vibra-tion occurs with an increase in engine speed,check for a leaking intake manifold gasket orhead gasket, weak valve springs, burnedvalves or ignition misfire.

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-7

Low , steady reading Low, fluctuating needle Regular drops

5.6 Typical vacuum gauge diagnostic readings

Irregular drops Rapid vibration

12 A slight fluctuation, say 1 inch up-and-down, may mean ignition problems. Check allthe usual tune-up items and, if necessary, runthe engine on an ignition system analyzer.13 If there is a large fluctuation, perform acompression or leak-down test to look for aweak or dead cylinder or a blown head gasket.14 If the needle moves slowly through awide range, check for a clogged PCV system,inoperative or clogged fuel injectors), throttlebody or intake manifold gasket or vacuumhose leaks.15 Check for a slow return after revving theengine by quickly snapping the throttle openuntil the engine reaches about 2,500 rpm andlet it shut. Normally the reading should dropto near zero, rise above normal idle reading(about 5 in-Hg over) and then return to theprevious idle reading. If the vacuum returnsslowly and doesn't peak when the throttle issnapped shut, the rings may be worn. If thereis a long delay, look for a restricted exhaustsystem (often the muffler or catalytic con-verter). An easy way to check this is to tem-porarily disconnect the exhaust ahead of thesuspected part and repeat the test.

6 Engine removal - methods andprecautions

If you've decided that an engine must beremoved for overhaul or major repair work,several preliminary steps should be taken.

Locating a suitable place to work isextremely important. Adequate work space,along with storage space for the vehicle, willbe needed. If a shop or garage isn't available,at the very least a flat, level, clean work sur-face made of concrete or asphalt is required.

Cleaning the engine compartment andengine before beginning the removal proce-dure will help keep tools clean and organized.

An engine hoist or A-frame will also benecessary. Make sure the equipment is ratedin excess of the combined weight of theengine and accessories. Safety is of primaryimportance, considering the potential hazardsinvolved in lifting the engine out of the vehicle.

If the engine is being removed by anovice, a helper should be available. Adviceand aid from someone more experiencedwould also be helpful. There are manyinstances when one person cannot simulta-neously perform all of the operations requiredwhen lifting the engine out of the vehicle.

Plan the operation ahead of time.Arrange for, or obtain all of the tools andequipment you'll need prior to beginning thejob. Some of the equipment necessary to per-form engine removal and installation safelyand with relative ease are (in addition to anengine hoist) a heavy duty floor jack, completesets of wrenches and sockets as described inthe front of this manual, wooden blocks andplenty of rags and cleaning solvent for mop-ping up spilled oil, coolant and gasoline. If thehoist must be rented, make sure that you

arrange for it in advance and perform all of theoperations possible without it beforehand.This will save you time and money.

Plan for the vehicle to be out of use forquite a while. A machine shop will berequired to perform some of the work whichthe do-it-yourselfer can't accomplish withoutspecial equipment. These shops often have abusy schedule, so it would be a good idea toconsult them before removing the engine inorder to accurately estimate the amount ofti me required to rebuild or repair componentsthat may need work.

Always be extremely careful when remov-ing and installing the engine. Serious injury canresult from careless actions. Plan ahead, takeyour time and a job of this nature, althoughmajor, can be accomplished successfully.

7 Engine - removal and installation

Note 1: Read through the entire Sectionbefore beginning this procedure. The engineand transaxle are removed from the vehicle asan assembly and separated once outside ofthe vehicle.Note 2: The engineltransaxle assembly isdesigned to be removed from the undersideof the vehicle. This manual assumes that thedo-it-yourselfer is performing the job at homeand is removing the engine without the use ofa vehicle lift.Warning: These models have airbags. Alwaysdisable the airbag system and wait 2 minutesbefore working in the vicinity of the impactsensors, steering column or instrument panelto avoid the possibility of accidental deploy-ment of the airbags, which could cause per-sonal injury (see Chapter 12).

RemovalRefer to illustration 7.101 If the vehicle is equipped with air condi-tioning, have the system discharged by adealer service department or automotive airconditioning service facility.2 Place protective covers on the frontfenders and cowl. Special fender covers areavailable, but an old bedspread or blanketwill also work.3 Remove the hood (see Chapter 11).4 Perform the fuel system pressure reliefprocedure (see Chapter 4).5 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).6 Remove the air cleaner assembly (seeChapter 4).7 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands. Drain the cooling system,engine oil and transaxle fluid (see Chapter 1).8 Remove the engine cooling fans, radia-tor and air conditioning condenser unit Ofequipped) (see Chapter 3).9 Remove the front bumper fascia andreinforcement bar (see Chapter 11).10 Carefully label, then disconnect all vac-uum lines, coolant and emissions hoses, wire

2C

2C-8 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

7.10 Label both ends of each wire orvacuum connection before

separating them

harness connectors and brackets connectedto the engine. Masking tape and felt-tip penswork well for marking items (see illustration).If necessary, take instant photos or sketchthe locations to ensure correct location atinstallation.11 Detach the Powertrain Control Module(PCM), Power Distribution Center (PDC) andTransmission Control Module (TCM) (ifequipped) from their mountings and positionthem out of the way. Caution: The PCM andTCM are Electro-Static Discharge (ESD) sen-sitive electronic devices, meaning a static dis-charge from your body could possibly dam-age internal electrical components. Makesure to properly ground yourself and the con-trol modules before handling them. Avoidtouching the electrical terminals unless abso -

lutely necessary.12 Disconnect the fuel line from the fuelinjection system (see Chapter 4). Cap the fit-tings to prevent leakage and contamination.13 Detach the accelerator cable and cruisecontrol cable (if equipped) (see Chapter 4).14 If equipped, remove the oil pan-to-transaxle structural collar (see Chapter 2A).15 On manual transaxle equipped models,detach the shift cables (see Chapter 7A) andthe clutch release cable (see Chapter 8).16 On automatic transaxle equipped vehi-cles, detach the shift control cable and oilcooler lines from the transaxle (see Chap-ter 7B). After removing the oil cooler lines,plug the ends to prevent leakage and con-tamination.17 Clearly label and disconnect all electri-cal connections and ground straps (whereapplicable) from the transaxle.18 Remove the driveaxles from thetransaxle (see Chapter 8). Stuff clean ragsinto the transaxle openings to prevent leak-age and contamination.19 Remove the bellhousing lower cover,match-mark the torque converter or modularclutch assembly (as applicable) to the drive-plate and remove the four bolts (refer to theappropriate Part of Chapter 7).20 Disconnect the exhaust system from theexhaust manifold (see Chapter 4).21 On V6 models, remove the cross-over

tube connecting the exhaust manifolds (seeChapter 2B).22 Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter 1).23 If equipped, remove the air conditioningcompressor (see Chapter 3).24 Detach the power steering pump, reser-voir and the power steering lines (mounted tothe rear cylinder head) from the bracketswithout disconnecting the hoses and positionthem out of the way.25 Remove the through-bolt from the rearengine mount (refer to the appropriate Part ofChapter 2).26 Disconnect the ground straps from theengine.27 Lower the vehicle.28 Attach a chain or an engine lifting fixtureto the engine lifting brackets (or to boltswhich are securely mounted in the cast ironblock or accessory mounting bracket) andattach the hoist. Take up the slack until thereis tension on the chain to support theengineltransaxle assembly. Warning: Attach-ing the engine lifting chain to a bolt or studlocated in an aluminum component (such asthe cylinder head) may not provide the neces-sary strength to support the weight of theengineltransaxle assembly during removal.29 Support the transaxle with a floor jack.Place a block of wood on the jack pad to pro-tect the transaxle. Warning: Do not place anypart of your body under the engineltransaxlewhen it's supported only by a hoist or otherlifting device.30 Remove the mount through-bolts on allof the engine or transaxle mounts (refer to theappropriate Part of Chapter 2).31 Confirm that all of the cables, hoses,wires and other items are disconnected fromthe engineltransaxle.32 Carefully push the transaxle down, oradjust the engine lifting fixture to position theengine slightly higher than the transaxle,while lifting the engine up to clear obstruc-tions.33 Lift the engine and transaxle highenough to clear the front of the vehicle andslowly move the hoist away.34 Lower the hoist and set the transaxle onblocks - leave the hoist hooked to the engine.35 With the transaxle securely supported,remove the transaxle-to-engine bolts andseparate the engine from the transaxle (referto Chapter 7 if necessary).36 Remove the driveplate (refer to theappropriate Part of Chapter 2) and thenremove the engine rear plate. Mount theengine on an engine stand.

Installation37 Before installing the engine assembly,inspect the engineltransaxle mounts. Ifthey're worn or damaged, replace them.38 On manual transaxle equipped models,inspect the modular clutch assembly (seeChapter 8) and apply a very small amount ofhigh temperature grease to the transaxleinput shaft splines.39 On automatic transaxle equipped vehi-cles, inspect the torque converter/input shaft

seal.40 Carefully mate the transaxle to theengine following the procedure outlined inChapter 7. Caution: Do not use the bolts toforce the engine and transaxle into alignment.It may crack or damage major components.41 Install the transaxle-to-engine bolts andtighten them to the torque listed in the Speci-fications of Chapter 7.42 Attach the hoist to the engine and care-fully lower the engineltransaxle assembly intothe vehicle.43 Install the engineltransaxle mount boltsand tighten them securely.44 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal.45 After lowering the vehicle, add coolant,engine oil, power steering and transmissionfluid/lubricant as needed (see Chapter 1).46 Run the engine and check for properoperation and leaks. Shut off the engine andrecheck the fluid levels. Note: If the enginehas just been rebuilt, see Section 27 forbreak-in procedures.

8 Engine rebuilding alternatives

The do-it-yourselfer is faced with a num-ber of options when performing an engineoverhaul. The decision to replace the engineblock, piston/connecting rod assemblies andcrankshaft depends on a number of factors,with the number one consideration being thecondition of the block. Other considerationsare cost, access to machine shop facilities,parts availability, time required to completethe project and the extent of prior mechanicalexperience on the part of the do-it-yourselfer.

Some of the rebuilding alternativesinclude:

Individual parts - If the inspection pro-cedures reveal that the engine block andmost engine components are in reusablecondition, purchasing individual parts may bethe most economical alternative. The block,crankshaft and piston/connecting rod assem-blies should all be inspected carefully. Even ifthe block shows little wear, the cylinder boresshould be surface honed.

Short block - A short block' consists ofan engine block with a crankshaft and pis-ton/connecting rod assemblies alreadyinstalled. All new bearings are incorporatedand all clearances will be correct. The exist-ing camshaft, valve train components, cylin-der head(s) and external parts can be boltedto the short block with little or no machineshop work necessary.

Long block - A long block consists of ashort block plus an oil pump, oil pan, cylinderhead, rocker arm cover, camshaft(s) andvalve train components, timing sprockets andtiming covers. All components are installedwith new bearings, seals and gaskets incor-porated throughout. The installation of mani-folds and external parts is all that's neces-sary.

Give careful thought to which alternativeis best for you and discuss the situation with

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-9

local automotive machine shops, auto partsdealers and experienced rebuilders beforeordering or purchasing replacement parts.

9 Engine overhaul - disassemblysequence

Refer to illustrations 9.5a, 9.5b and 9.5c1 It's much easier to disassemble andwork on the engine if it's mounted on aportable engine stand. A stand can often berented quite cheaply from an equipmentrental yard. Before the engine is mounted ona stand, the driveplate must be removed fromthe engine.2 If a stand isn't available, it's possible todisassemble the engine with it blocked up onthe floor. Be extra careful not to tip or dropthe engine when working without a stand.3 If you're going to obtain a rebuilt engine,all external components must be removedfrom the old engine first, to be transferred tothe replacement engine, just as they will ifyou're doing a complete engine overhaulyourself. These include but are not limitedtoo:

Air conditioning compressor andbrackets

Alternator and bracketsCoil pack or distributor, spark plug wires

and spark plugsDriveplateElectronic engine control componentsEmissions control componentsEngine mountsFuel injection componentsIntake and exhaust manifoldsOil filter (and adapter if equipped)Power steering pump and bracketsThermostat cover, thermostat and

housingWater pump

Note: When removing the external compo-nents from the engine, pay close attention todetails that may be helpful or important dur-ing installation. Note the installed position ofgaskets, seals, spacers, pins, brackets, wash-ers, bolts and other small items.4 If you're obtaining a short block, whichconsists of the engine block, crankshaft, pis-tons and connecting rods all assembled, thenthe cylinder head, oil pan and oil pump willhave to be removed as well. See Enginerebuilding alternatives for additional informa-tion regarding the different possibilities to beconsidered.5 If you're planning a complete overhaul,the engine must be disassembled and theinternal components removed in the generalfollowing order (see illustrations):

Intake and exhaust manifoldsValve coverRocker arms and shafts (SOHC engine)Timing belt coversTiming belt and sprocketsCamshaft(s)Rocker arms and hydraulic lash

adjusters (DOHC engines)

PISTON ANDCONNECTING ROD

ASSEMBLYCONNECTINGROD BEARINGS

SEAL

OIL PASSAGE0-RING

SEAL

UPPERBEARING

NIPPLE (GROOVED)OIL FILTERADAPTER

9.5a Engine block components - 2.0L four-cylinder

9.5b Engine block components - 2.4L four-cylinder

2C

2C-10 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

9.5c Engine block components - V6 engine

Water pumpCylinder head(s)Oil pan and oil pickup tubeOil pumpBalance shaft carrier (2.4L four-cylinder

engine)Piston/connecting rod assembliesCrankshaft

6 Before beginning the disassembly andoverhaul procedures, make sure the followingitems are available. Also, refer to Engineoverhaul - reassembly sequence for a li st oftools and materials needed for enginereassembly.

Common hand toolsSmall cardboard boxes or plastic bags

for storing partsGasket scraperRidge reamerMicrometersTelescoping gaugesDial indicator setValve spring compressorCylinder surfacing honePiston ring groove cleaning toolElectric drill motorTap and die setWire brushesOil gallery brushesCleaning solvent

10 Cylinder head - disassembly

Refer to illustrations 10.2, 10.3, 10.4a, 10.4band 10.4cNote: New and rebuilt cylinder heads arecommonly available for most engines at deal-erships and auto parts stores. Due to the factthat some specialized tools are necessary forthe disassembly and inspection procedures,and replacement parts may not be readilyavailable, it may be more practical and eco-nomical for the home mechanic to purchase areplacement head rather than taking the timeto disassemble, inspect and recondition theoriginal.

1 Cylinder head disassembly involvesremoval of the intake and exhaust valves andrelated components. If they're still in place,remove the rocker arm shafts and camshaft,on the SOHC engine (refer to the appropriatePart of Chapter 2) or the bearing caps,camshafts, rocker arms and lash adjusters,on the DOHC engine (see Chapter 2A). Label

the parts or store them separately so theycan be reinstalled in their original locations.2 Before the valves are removed, arrangeto label and store them, along with theirrelated components, so they can be keptseparate and reinstalled in the same valveguides they are removed from (see illustra-tion).

10.2 A small plastic bag with an appropriate label can be used tostore the valvetrain components so they don't get mixed up

10.3 After compressing the valve spring, use a magnet (shown) orneedle-nose pliers to extract the valve keepers - a valve springcompressor adapter, such as the one shown, will be needed to

compress the valve spring on this type of cylinder head

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-11

10.4a Remove the valve from thecylinder head .. .

3 Compress the springs on the first valvewith a spring compressor and remove thekeepers (see illustration). Carefully releasethe valve spring compressor and remove theretainer and the spring.4 Pull the valve out of the head, thenremove the valve stem seal with pliers andwithdraw spring seat from the guide (seeillustrations). Note: On the four-cylinderengines the valve stem seal and spring seatare an assembly. If the valve binds in theguide (won't pull through), push it back intothe head and deburr the area around thekeeper groove and step tip with a fine file orwhetstone (see illustration).5 Repeat the procedure for the remainingvalves. Remember to keep all the parts foreach valve together so they can be rein-stalled in the same locations.6 Once the valves and related compo-nents have been removed and stored in anorganized manner, the head should be thor-oughly cleaned and inspected. If a completeengine overhaul is being performed, finish theengine disassembly procedures beforebeginning the cylinder head cleaning andinspection process.

10.4b . . . then use pliers to remove thevalve stem seal from the valve guide

11 Cylinder head - cleaning andinspection

1 Thorough cleaning of the cylinder headand related valvetrain components, followedby a detailed inspection, will enable you todecide how much valve service work must beperformed during the engine overhaul. Note:If the engine was severely overheated, thecylinder head is probably warped.

Cleaning2 Scrape all traces of old gasket materialand sealing compound off the head gasket,intake manifold and exhaust manifold sealingsurfaces. Caution: The cylinder head is alu-minum, be very careful not to gouge the seal-ing surfaces. Special gasket removal solventsthat soften gaskets and make removal mucheasier are available at auto parts stores.3 Remove all built-up scale from thecoolant passages.4 Run a stiff wire brush through the vari-ous holes to remove deposits that may haveformed in them.5 Run an appropriate size tap into each of

the threaded holes to remove corrosion andthread sealant that may be present. If com-pressed air is available, use it to clear theholes of debris produced by this operation.Warning: Wear eye protection when usingcompressed air!6 Clean the cylinder head with solvent anddry it thoroughly. Compressed air will speedthe drying process and ensure that all holesand recessed areas are clean. Note: Decar-bonizing chemicals are available and mayprove very useful when cleaning cylinderheads and valve train components. They arevery caustic and should be used with caution.Be sure to follow the instructions on the con-tainer.7 Clean the rocker arms hydraulic lashadjusters, spacers and shafts with solvent.Note: The lash adjusters and rocker arms onSOHC engines are precision assemblies, becareful not to mix-up parts when cleaning. Dryall parts thoroughly (don't mix them up duringthe cleaning process). Compressed air willspeed the drying process and can be used toclean out the oil passages. Warning: Weareye protection when using compressed air!8 Clean all the valve springs, spring seats,keepers and retainers with solvent and drythem thoroughly. Clean the components onevalve at a time to avoid mixing up the parts.9 Scrape off any heavy deposits that mayhave formed on the valves, then use a motor-ized wire brush to remove deposits from thevalve heads and stems. Warning: Wear eyeprotection when using a motorized wirebrush! Again, make sure the valves don't getmixed up.

InspectionNote: Be sure to perform all of the followinginspection procedures before concluding thatmachine shop work is required. Make a list ofthe items that need attention.

Cylinder headRefer to illustrations 11.10, 11.11 and 11.1310 Inspect the head very carefully forcracks, evidence of coolant leakage and

2C

10.4c If the valve stem won't pass through the guide, chances areits because of a burr or raised material on the end of the valve

stem. Use a fine file or whetstone to deburr the valvestem as required

11.10 Inspect the cylinder head internal passages for cracks orother defects

2C-12 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

11.11 Measure the cylinder head gasket surface(s) flatness andcompare to the limits listed in this Chapter's Specifications

11.13 Checking valve stem-to-guide clearance - remember todivide the measurement by 2 to obtain the correct dimension

VALVE STEM TIP

11.16 Measure the valve margin ofeach valve 11.17 Measuring the valve spring

free length11.15 Carefully inspect the areas

indicated for wear or damage

other damage (see illustration). If cracks arefound, check with an automotive machineshop concerning repair. If repair isn't possi-ble, a new cylinder head must be obtained.11 Using a straightedge and feeler gauge,check the head gasket mating surface (seeillustration). Check the intake and exhaustmanifold surfaces on the cylinder head also.If the warpage on any of the surfacesexceeds the limits listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications, they can be resurfaced at anautomotive machine shop.12 Examine the valve seats in each of thecombustion chambers. If they're pitted,cracked or burned, the head will require valveservice that's beyond the scope of the homemechanic.13 Check the valve stem-to-guide clear-ance, using a clamping dial indicator baseattached securely to the head, by measuringthe lateral movement of the valve stem insidethe valve guide (see illustration). The valvemust be in the guide and approximately 1/16-inch off the seat. The total valve stem move-ment indicated by the gauge needle must bedivided by two to obtain the actual clearance.14 After this is done, if there's still some

doubt regarding the condition of the valveguides they should be checked by an auto-motive machine shop (the cost should beminimal).

ValvesRefer to illustrations 11.15 and 11.1615 Carefully inspect each valve face foruneven wear, deformation, cracks, pits andburned areas (see illustration). Check thevalve stem for scuffing and galling and theneck for cracks. Rotate the valve and checkfor any obvious indication that it's bent. Lookfor pits and excessive wear on the end of thestem. The presence of any of these condi-tions indicates the need for valve service byan automotive machine shop.16 Measure the margin width on each valve(see illustration). Any valve with a marginnarrower than listed in this Chapter's Specifi-cations will have to be replaced.

Valve componentsRefer to illustrations 11.17 and 11.1817 Check each valve spring for wear (onthe ends) and pits. Measure the free length(see illustration) and compare it to the valueli sted in this Chapter's Specifications. Anysprings that are shorter than specified havesagged and should not be reused. The ten -

11.18 Check each valve springfor squareness

sion of all springs should be checked with aspecial fixture before deciding that they'resuitable for use in a rebuilt engine (take thesprings to an automotive machine shop forthis check).18 Stand each spring on a flat surface andcheck it for squareness (see illustration). Ifany of the springs are distorted or sagged,replace all of them with new parts.

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-13

13.4a On four-cylinder models, the valve seal and spring seat arean assembly 13.4b Install the valve stem seal using an appropriate size socket

and hammer

19 Check the spring retainers and keepersfor obvious wear and cracks. Any question-able parts should be replaced with new ones,as extensive damage will occur if they failduring engine operation.

Rocker arm components20 Refer to the appropriate Part of Chapter2 for the rocker arm and hydraulic lashadjusters inspection procedures.21 Any damaged or excessively worn partsmust be replaced with new ones.22 If the inspection process indicates thatthe valve components are in generally poorcondition and worn beyond the limits speci-fied, which is usually the case in an enginethat's being overhauled, reassemble thevalves in the cylinder head and refer to Sec-tion 12 for valve servicing recommendations.

12 Valves - servicing

1 Because of the complex nature of thejob and the special tools and equipmentneeded, servicing of the valves, the valveseats and the valve guides, commonly knownas a valve job, should be performed by anexperienced professional.2 The home mechanic can remove anddisassemble the head, do the initial cleaningand inspection, then reassemble and deliverit to a dealer service department or an auto-motive machine shop for the actual servicework. Doing the inspection will enable you tosee what condition the head and valvetraincomponents are in and will ensure that youknow what work and new parts are requiredwhen dealing with an automotive machineshop.3 The dealer service department, or auto-motive machine shop, will remove the valvesand springs, recondition or replace the valvesand valve seats, recondition the valve guides,check and replace the valve springs, springretainers and keepers (as necessary), replacethe valve seals with new ones, reassemblethe valve components and make sure theinstalled spring height is correct. The cylinderhead gasket surface will also be resurfaced if

13.6a Install the spring over the valveguide and onto the seat .. .

it's warped.4 After the valve job has been performedby a professional, the head will be in like-newcondition. When the head is returned, be sureto clean it again before installing it on theengine to remove any metal particles andabrasive grit that may still be present fromthe valve service or head resurfacing opera-tions (which happens frequently). Use com-pressed air, if available, to blow out all the oilholes and passages.

13 Cylinder head - reassembly

Refer to illustrations 13.4a, 13.4b, 13.6a,13.6b, 13.7 and 13.91 Regardless of whether or not the headwas sent to an automotive repair shop forvalve servicing, make sure it's clean beforebeginning reassembly.2 If the head was sent out for valve servic-ing, the valves and related components willalready be in place. Begin the reassemblyprocedure with Step 8.3 If the valve faces or seats have beenground on a 2.0L four-cylinder engine, mea-sure the valve stem tip-to-spring seat surfaceheight (without spring or seat installed) (see

13.6b . . . and place the retainer ontothe spring

illustration 13.9 Dimension "A"). If thedimension is greater than the tolerance listedin this Chapter's Specifications, grind thevalve stem as required to achieve the correctdimension.4 Install the spring seats and new valvestem seals (V6 engines) or the new valveseal/spring seat assembly (four-cylinderengines) onto each of the valve guides (seeillustration). Note: On V6 engines, install thesilver colored valve stem seals onto the intakevalve guides and the black colored valve stemseals onto the exhaust valve guides. Using ahammer and a deep socket or seal installa-tion tool, gently tap each valve stemseal/spring seat assembly into place until it'scompletely seated on the guide (see illustra-tion). Don't twist or cock the seals duringinstallation or they won't seal properly on thevalve stems.5 Beginning at one end of the head, applymoly-based grease or clean engine oil to thevalve stem and install the first valve.6 Install spring over the valve guide andset the spring and retainer in place (see illus-trations). Note: On V6 engines, install thevalve springs with the enameled end up.7 Compress the spring with a valve springcompressor and carefully install the keepersin the upper groove, then slowly release the

2C

2C-14 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

13.7 Apply a small dab of grease to eachkeeper as shown here - it will hold them in

place on the valve stem as the springis released

compressor and make sure the keepers seatproperly. Apply a small dab of grease to eachkeeper to hold it in place if necessary (seeillustration).8 Repeat the procedure for the remaining

14.1 Before you try to remove the pistons,use a ridge reamer to remove the raised

material (ridge) from the top ofthe cylinders

13.9 Valve stem tip-to-springseat surface (Dimension "A" -

2.0L four-cylinder enginesonly) and installed springheight (Dimension "B" -

all engines)

valves. Be sure to return the components totheir original locations - don't mix them up!9 Measure the installed valve springheight (Dimension "B") with a vernier or dialcaliper (see illustration). If the head was sentout for service work, the installed heightshould be correct, but don't automaticallyassume that it is. If the height is greater thanli sted in this Chapter's Specifications, shimscan be added under the spring seat to cor-rect it. Caution: Do not shim the springs tothe point where the installed height is lessthan specified.10 Refer to the appropriate Part of thisChapter for the procedure to install thecamshaft(s) and rocker arms.

14 Pistons and connecting rods -removal

Refer to illustrations 14.1, 14.3 14.4 and 14.6Note: Prior to removing the piston/connect-ing rod assemblies, remove the cylinder headand oil pan by referring to the appropriatePart of this Chapter.1 Use your fingernail to feel if a ridge hasformed at the upper limit of ring travel (about1/4-inch down from the top of each cylinder).If carbon deposits or cylinder wear have pro-duced ridges, they must be completelyremoved with a special tool (see illustration).

Follow the manufacturer's instructions pro-vided with the tool. Failure to remove theridges before attempting to remove the pis-ton/connecting rod assemblies may result inpiston breakage.2 After the cylinder ridges have beenremoved, turn the engine so the crankshaft isfacing up.3 Before the main bearing cap assemblyand connecting rods are removed, check theconnecting rod endplay with feeler gauges.Slide them between the first connecting rodand the crankshaft throw until the play isremoved (see illustration). The endplay isequal to the thickness of the feeler gauge(s).If the endplay exceeds the service limit, newconnecting rods will be required. If new rods(or a new crankshaft) are installed, the end-play may fall under the minimum listed in thisChapter's Specifications (if it does, the rodswill have to be machined to restore it - con-sult an automotive machine shop for advice ifnecessary). Repeat the procedure for theremaining connecting rods.4 Check the connecting rods and caps foridentification marks (see illustration). If theyaren't plainly marked, use a small center-punch to make the appropriate number ofindentations on each rod and cap (1, 2, 3,etc., depending on the cylinder they're asso-ciated with).5 Loosen each of the connecting rod capnuts or bolts 1/2-turn at a time until they can

14.3 Checking the connecting rod endplay (side clearance)

14.4 If the connecting rods and caps are not identified, use acenter punch or numbered impression stamps to mark the caps

to the rods by cylinder number (No. 4 connecting rod shown)

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-15

14.6 On V6 engines, place a section of plastic or rubber hose overthe connecting rod studs to prevent damaging the crankshaft

journals during piston/rod removal

be removed by hand. Remove the numberone connecting rod cap and bearing insert.Don't drop the bearing insert out of the cap.6 If you are removing the rods from a V6engine, slip a short length of plastic or rubberhose over each connecting rod stud to pro-tect the crankshaft journal and cylinder wallas the rod is removed (see illustration).7 Remove the bearing insert and push theconnecting rod/piston assembly out throughthe top of the engine. Use a wooden or plastichammer handle to push on the upper bearingsurface in the connecting rod. If resistance isfelt, double-check to make sure that all of theridge was removed from the cylinder.8 Repeat the procedure for the remainingcylinders. Note: On four-cylinder engines,new connecting rod bolts must be installedwhen the engine is reassembled.9 After removal, reassemble the connect-ing rod caps and bearing inserts in theirrespective connecting rods and install thecap bolts finger tight. Leaving the old bearinginserts in place until reassembly will help pre-vent the connecting rod bearing surfacesfrom being accidentally nicked or gouged.10 Don't separate the pistons from theconnecting rods (see Section 20 for addi-tional information).

interconnected through two gears whichrotate them in opposite directions. Thesegears are driven by a chain from the crank-shaft and they are designed to rotate at a 2:1ratio with the crankshaft (one turn of thecrankshaft equals two turns of the balanceshafts). This motion will counterbalance cer-tain reciprocating masses within the engine.2 Remove the chain cover, guide and ten-sioner from the engine block (see illustra-tion).3 While keeping the crankshaft from rotat-ing, remove the balance shaft bolts. Caution:If the rocker arm shaft assemblies have notbeen removed, DO NOT rotate the crankshaftas valve damage could occur. Note: A blockof wood placed tightly between the engineblock and the crankshaft counterbalance willprevent crankshaft rotation.4 Remove the balance shaft chainsprocket, chain and crankshaft chain sprock-et (see illustration). Use two prybars to workthe sprocket back and forth until it is freefrom the crankshaft. Note: The carrier assem-bly may be removed from the main bearingcap assembly at this time, if balance shaftremoval is not required.5 Remove the special stud (double-ended)

15.4 Balance shaft chain, crankshaft andbalance shaft sprockets assembly details

from the gear cover. Then remove the gearcover and balance shaft drive and drivengears (see illustration).

2C

15 Balance shafts (2.4L four-cylinderengine only) - removal,inspection and installation

Note: This procedure assumes that theengine has been removed from the vehicleand the driveplate, timing belt, oil pan and oilpump have also been removed (see Chapter2, Part A).

RemovalRefer to illustrations 15.2, 15.4, 15.5 and 15.61 The balance shafts are installed in a car-ri er that is mounted to the main bearing capassembly on the lower part of the engineblock (see illustration 9.5b). The shafts are

15.5 Remove the doubleended stud and separatethe gear cover from the

balance shaft carrier

2C-16 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

15.6 Remove the rear cover from thecarrier and withdraw the balance shafts

6 Remove the rear cover from the carrierand withdraw the balance shafts (see illus-tration).7 Remove the bolts that retain the carrierto the main bearing cap assembly, and sepa-rate the carrier from the engine.

Inspection8 Clean all components with solvent anddry thoroughly. Inspect all components fordamage and wear. Pay special attention tothe chain, sprocket and gear teeth and thebearing surfaces of the carrier and balanceshafts. Replace defective parts as necessary.

15.12 After gear installation,the balance shaft keyways

should be parallel and facingthe crankshaft, and the gearalignment marks should be

together as shown

InstallationRefer to illustrations 15.12 and 15.159 Install the balance shaft carrier onto themain bearing cap assembly and tighten thebolts to the torque listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications.10 Lubricate the balance shafts with cleanengine oil and insert them into the carrier.11 Install the rear cover and tighten thebolts to the torque listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications.12 Rotate the balance shafts until bothshaft keyways are parallel and facing towardthe crankshaft. Install the short hub drivegear on the sprocket driven shaft and thelong hub gear on the gear driven shaft. Afterinstallation, the timing marks (dots) should betogether and the keyways positioned asshown (see illustration).13 Install the gear cover and tighten thedouble-ended stud to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications.14 Install the sprocket onto the crankshaftwith the timing mark facing out, be careful

not to cock the sprocket as its beinginstalled.15 Position the crankshaft so the timingmark on the chain sprocket is aligned withthe parting line on the left side of the num-ber 1 main bearing cap as shown (see illus-tration).16 Place the chain onto the crankshaftsprocket so that the nickel plated link of thechain is located at the timing mark on thecrankshaft sprocket (see illustration 15.15).17 Install the balance shaft sprocket intothe chain so that the timing mark on thesprocket (yellow dot) mates with the nickelplated link on the chain (8 links from theupper nickel plated link) (see illustration15.15).18 Slide the balance shaft sprocket ontothe balance shaft. If the sprocket is difficult toinstall on the balance shaft, it may be neces-sary to loosen the rear cover and push thebalance shaft slightly out of the carrier tofacilitate sprocket installation. Note: The tim-ing mark on the balance shaft sprocket and

INSTALL CHAIN WITHALL KEYWAYS UP

LOWER NICKELPLATED LINK 8 LINKS

FROM UPPER LINK

15.15 The timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket, nickel platedlinks, notch and the yellow dot on balance shaft sprocket must be

aligned for correct timing

15.20 With the shim in place, apply approximately 5.5 to 6.5 Ibs ofpressure to the chain tensioner and then tighten the bolt to the

torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-17

16.1 Checking the crankshaft endplay using a dial indicator16.3 Checking the crankshaft endplay using feeler gauges at the

thrust bearing journal

the nickel plated link should align with thenotch on the side of the gear cover (see illus-tration 15.15).19 Install the balance shaft bolts. Whilekeeping the crankshaft from rotating, tightenthe balance shaft bolts to the torque listed inthis Chapter's Specifications. Note: A blockof wood placed tightly between the engineblock and the crankshaft counterbalance willprevent crankshaft rotation.

Chain tensioningRefer to illustration 15.2020 Install the chain tensioner loosely. Placea 0.039 x 2.75 inch shim (a feeler gauge cutto the appropriate size can be used) betweenthe tensioner and the chain (see illustration).Push the tensioner up against the chain.Apply firm pressure (approximately 5.5 to 6.5Ibs) directly behind the adjustment slot toremove the slack.21 With pressure applied, tighten the toptensioner bolt first then the bottom pivot bolt.Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications. Remove the shim.22 Place the chain guide onto the double-ended stud making sure the tab on the guidefits into the slot on the gear cover. Tightenthe nut to the torque listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications.23 Install the chain cover and tighten thebolts securely.

16 Crankshaft - removal

Refer to illustrations 16.1 and 16.3Note: The crankshaft can be removed onlyafter the engine has been removed from thevehicle. It's assumed that the driveplate,crankshaft pulley, timing belt, oil pan, oilpump body, oil filter and piston/connectingrod assemblies have already been removed.On V6 engines, the rear main oil seal retainermust be unbolted and separated from theblock before proceeding with crankshaftremoval.1 Before the crankshaft is removed, mea-

sure the endplay. Mount a dial indicator withthe indicator in line with the crankshaft andjust touching the end of the crankshaft asshown (see illustration).2 Pry the crankshaft all the way to the rearand zero the dial indicator. Next, pry thecrankshaft to the front as far as possible andcheck the reading on the dial indicator. Thedistance traveled is the endplay. If it's greaterthan the tolerance listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications, check the crankshaft thrustsurfaces for wear after its removed. If nowear is evident, new main bearings shouldcorrect the endplay.3 If a dial indicator isn't available, feelergauges can be used. Gently pry thecrankshaft all the way to the front of theengine. Slip feeler gauges between thecrankshaft and the front face of the thrustbearing or washer to determine the clearance(see illustration).4 Loosen the main bearing cap assemblybolts 1/4-turn at a time each, until they canbe removed by hand.5 Gently tap the main bearing cap assem-bly with a soft-face hammer around theperimeter of the assembly. Pull the mainbearing cap assembly straight up and off the

cylinder block. On 2.0L four-cylinder engines,remove the oil filter passage 0-ring seal andthe three main bearing cap assembly locatingdowels. Try not to drop the bearing inserts ifthey come out with the assembly.6 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of theengine. It may be a good idea to have anassistant available, since the crankshaft isquite heavy and awkward to handle. With thebearing inserts in place inside the engineblock and main bearing caps, reinstall themain bearing cap assembly onto engineblock and tighten the bolts finger tight. Makesure you install the main bearing cap assem-bly on V6 models with the arrow facing thefront (timing belt end) of the engine.

17 Engine block - cleaning

Refer to illustrations 17.1a, 17.lb, 17.8 and17.101 Remove the core plugs from the engineblock. To do this, knock one side of the plugsinto the block with a hammer and a punch,then grasp them with large pliers and pullthem out (see illustrations).

17.1a Use a hammer and a large punch to 17.lb . . . then pull the core plugsknock the core plugs sideways in

their bores .. .out with pliers

2C

2C-18 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

17.8 All bolt holes in the block,particularly the main bearing cap and

head bolt holes, should be cleaned andrestored with the appropriate tap (be sureto remove the debris from the holes after

this operation)

2 Using a gasket scraper, remove alltraces of gasket material from the engineblock. Be very careful not to nick or gougethe gasket sealing surfaces.3 Remove the main bearing cap assemblyand separate the bearing inserts from thecaps and the engine block. Note: The upperbearings are equipped with the oil groove andhole, the thrust bearing is in the No. 3 (center)location. Tag the bearings, indicating whichcylinder they were removed from, then setthem aside.4 Remove all of the threaded oil galleryplugs from the block. The plugs are usuallyvery tight - they may have to be drilled outand the holes retapped. Use new plugs whenthe engine is reassembled.5 If the engine is extremely dirty it shouldbe taken to an automotive machine shop forcleaning.6 After the block is returned, clean all oilholes and oil galleries one more time.Brushes specifically designed for this pur-pose are available at most auto parts stores.Flush the passages with warm water until thewater runs clear, dry the block thoroughlyand wipe all machined surfaces with a light,rust preventive oil. If you have access tocompressed air, use it to speed the dryingprocess and to blow out all the oil holes andgalleries. Warning: Wear eye protectionwhen using compressed air!7 If the block isn't extremely dirty orslugged up, you can do an adequate cleaningjob with hot soapy water and a stiff brush.Take plenty of time and do a thorough job.Regardless of the cleaning method used, besure to clean all oil holes and galleries verythoroughly, dry the block completely andcoat all machined surfaces with light oil.8 The threaded holes in the block must beclean to ensure accurate torque readingsduring reassembly. Run the proper size tapinto each of the holes to remove rust, corro-sion, thread sealant or sludge and restore

17.10 A large 1/2 drive socket on anextension can be used to drive the new

core plugs into the block

damaged threads (see illustration). If possi-ble, use compressed air to clear the holes ofdebris produced by this operation. Now is agood time to clean the threads on the headbolts and the main bearing cap bolts as well.9 Reinstall the bearing inserts in their cor-rect locations and place the main bearing capassembly onto the engine block. Tighten thebolts finger tight.10 After coating the sealing surfaces of thenew core plugs with Permatex No. 2 sealant(or equivalent), install them in the engineblock (see illustration). Make sure they'redriven in straight and seated properly or leak-age could result. Special tools are availablefor this purpose, but a large socket, with anoutside diameter that will just slip into thecore plug, a 1/2-inch drive extension and ahammer will work just as well.11 Apply non-hardening sealant (such asPermatex No. 2 or Teflon pipe sealant) to the

<—CENTERLINE OFENGINE--->

18.4a Measure the diameter of eachcylinder at a right angle to the engine

centerline (A) and parallel to the enginecenterline (B) - the cylinder out-of-roundis the difference between (A) and (B); thecylinder taper is the difference between(A) and (B) at the top of the cylinder and(A) and (B) at the bottom of the cylinder

new oil gallery plugs and thread them into theholes in the block. Make sure they're tight-ened securely.12 If the engine isn't going to be reassem-bled right away, cover it with a large plastictrash bag to keep it clean.

18 Engine block - inspection

Refer to illustrations 18.4a, 18.4b. 18.4c,18.4d and 18.81 Before the block is inspected, it must becleaned as described in Section 17.2 Visually check the block for cracks, rustand corrosion. Look for stripped threads inthe threaded holes. It's also a good idea tohave the block checked for hidden cracks byan automotive machine shop that has thespecial equipment to do this type of work. Ifdefects are found, have the block repaired, ifpossible, or replaced. Note: If the engineblock requires machining, be sure to send themain bearing cap assembly along with theblock.3 Check the cylinder bores for scuffingand scoring.4 Check the cylinders for taper and out-of-round conditions as follows (see illustra-tions):

18.4b Measure the diameter of eachcylinder just under the wear ridge (A), at

the center (B) and the bottom (C)

18.4c The ability to "feel" when thetelescoping gauge is at the correct point

will be developed over time, so workslowly and repeat the check until you're

satisfied that the measurement is accurate

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-19

18.4d To determine the diameter, the telescoping gauge is thenmeasured with a micrometer

18.8 Check the cylinder block head gasket surface for warpageby placing a precision straightedge across the surface and trying

to slip a feeler gauge between the block and straightedge

a) Measure the diameter of each cylinder atthe top Oust under the ridge area), centerand bottom of the cylinder bore, parallelto the crankshaft axis.

b) Next, measure each cylinder's diameterat the same three locations perpendicu-lar to the crankshaft axis.

c) The taper of each cylinder is the differ-ence between the bore diameter at thetop of the cylinder and the diameter atthe bottom. The out-of-round specifica-tion is the difference between the paral-lel and perpendicular measurements.Compare the results to the tolerancelisted in this Chapter's Specifications.

5 Repeat the procedure for the remainingcylinders.6 If the cylinder walls are badly scuffed orscored, or if they're out-of-round or taperedbeyond the limits listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications, have the engine blockrebored and honed at an automotive machineshop. If a rebore is performed, oversize pis-tons and rings will be required.7 If the cylinders are in reasonably goodcondition and not worn to the outside of theli mits, and if the piston-to-cylinder bore clear-ances are acceptable, then they don't haveto be rebored. Honing is all that's necessary(see Section 19).8 Using a precision straightedge and afeeler gauge, check the block deck (the sur-face that mates with the cylinder head) fordistortion (see illustration). If it's distortedbeyond the tolerance listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications, it can usually be resurfacedby an automotive machine shop.

19 Cylinder honing

Refer to illustrations 19.3a and 19.3b1 Prior to engine reassembly, the cylinderbores must be honed so the new piston ringswill seat correctly and provide the best possi-ble combustion chamber seal. Note: If youdon't have the tools or don't want to tacklethe honing operation, most automotive

machine shops will do it for a reasonable fee.2 Before honing the cylinders, install themain bearing cap assembly and tighten thebolts to the torque li sted in this Chapter'sSpecifications following the recommendedtightening sequence (see illustrations25.13a, 25.13b and 25.13c). Make sure youinstall the main bearing cap assembly on V6models with the arrow facing the front (timingbelt end) of the engine.3 Two types of cylinder hones are com-monly available - the flex hone or "bottlebrush" type and the more traditional surfac-ing hone with spring-loaded stones. Both willdo the job, but for the less experiencedmechanic the "bottle brush" hone will proba-bly be easier to use. You'll also need somekerosene or honing oil, rags and an electricdrill motor. Proceed as follows:

Mount the hone in the drill motor, com-press the stones and slip it into the firstcylinder (see illustration). Be sure towear safety goggles or a face shield!Lubricate the cylinder with plenty ofhoning oil, turn on the drill and move thehone up-and-down in the cylinder at apace that will produce a fine crosshatchpattern on the cylinder walls (see illus -

tration). Ideally, the crosshatch linesshould intersect at approximately a 60-degree angle. Be sure to use plenty oflubricant and don't take off any morematerial than is absolutely necessary toproduce the desired finish. Note: Pistonring manufacturers may specify asmaller crosshatch angle than the tradi-tional 60-degrees - read and follow anyinstructions included with the new rings.

c) Don't withdraw the hone from the cylin-der while it's running. Instead, shut offthe drill and continue moving the honeup-and-down in the cylinder until itcomes to a complete stop, then com-press the stones and withdraw the hone.If you're using a "bottle brush" typehone, stop the drill motor, then turn thechuck in the normal direction of rotationwhile withdrawing the hone from thecylinder.

d) Wipe the oil out of the cylinder andrepeat the procedure for the remainingcylinders.

0-ACHAYNES

19.3b The honing procedure shouldproduce a smooth crosshatch pattern

with the lines intersecting atapproximately 60 degree angles

19.3a A "bottle brush" type hone willgenerally produce the best results in

most applications

a)

b)

2C

2C-20 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

20.2 Use a piston ring removal tool(shown) to remove the rings from

the pistons

4 After the honing job is complete, cham-fer the top edges of the cylinder bores with asmall file so the rings won't catch when thepistons are installed. Be very careful not tonick the cylinder walls with the end of the file.5 The entire engine block must be washedagain very thoroughly with warm, soapywater to remove all traces of the abrasive gritproduced during the honing operation. Note:The bores can be considered clean when alint-free white cloth - dampened with cleanengine oil - used to wipe them out doesn'tpick up any more honing residue, which willshow up as gray areas on the cloth. Be sureto run a brush through all oil holes and gal-leries and flush them with running water.6 After rinsing, dry the block and apply acoat of light rust preventive oil or Vaseline toall machined surfaces. Wrap the block in aplastic trash bag to keep it clean and set itaside until reassembly.

20 Pistons and connecting rods -inspection

Refer to illustrations 20.2, 20.4a, 20.4b, 20.10and 20.111 Before the inspection process can becarried out, the piston/connecting rodassemblies must be cleaned and the originalpiston rings removed from the pistons. Note:Always use new piston rings when the engineis reassembled.2 Using a piston ring removal tool (seeillustration), carefully remove the rings fromthe pistons. Be careful not to nick or gougethe pistons in the process.3 Scrape all traces of carbon from the topof the piston. A hand-held wire brush or apiece of fine emery cloth can be used oncethe majority of the deposits have beenscraped away. Do not, under any circum-stances, use a wire brush mounted in a drillmotor to remove deposits from the pistons.The piston material is soft and may beeroded away by the wire brush.4 Use a piston ring groove cleaning tool to

20.4a The piston ring grooves can becleaned using a special tool like

this one .. .

remove carbon deposits from the ringgrooves. If a tool isn't available, a piece bro-ken off the old ring will do the job. Be verycareful to remove only the carbon deposits -don't remove any metal and do not nick orscratch the sides of the ring grooves (seeillustrations).5 Once the deposits have been removed,clean the piston/rod assemblies with solventand dry them with compressed air (if avail-able). Make sure the oil return holes in theback sides of the ring grooves are free fromobstructions.6 If the pistons and cylinder walls aren'tdamaged or worn excessively, and if theengine block is not rebored, new pistonswon't be necessary. Normal piston wearappears as even, vertical wear on the pistonthrust surfaces and slight looseness of thetop ring in its groove. However, new pistonrings should always be installed when anengine is rebuilt.7 Carefully inspect each piston for cracksaround the skirt, at the pin bosses and at thering lands.8 Look for scoring and scuffing on thethrust faces of the skirt, holes in the pistoncrown and burned areas at the edge of thecrown. If the skirt is scored or scuffed, theengine may have been suffering from over-heating and/or abnormal combustion, whichcaused excessively high operating tempera-tures. The cooling and lubrication systemsshould be checked thoroughly. A hole in thepiston crown is an indication that abnormalcombustion (pre-ignition) was occurring.Burned areas at the edge of the piston crownare usually evidence of spark knock (detona-tion). If any of the above problems exist, thecauses must be corrected or the damage willoccur again. The causes may include intakeair leaks, incorrect fuel/air mixture, incorrectignition timing and EGR system malfunctions.9 Corrosion of the piston, in the form ofsmall pits, indicates that coolant is leakinginto the combustion chamber and/or thecrankcase. Again, the cause must be cor-

rected or the problem may persist in the

20.4b . . . or a short piece of an oldcompression ring

20.10 Checking the piston ringside clearance

rebuilt engine.10 Measure the piston ring side clearanceby laying a new piston ring in each ringgroove and slipping a feeler gauge in besideit (see illustration). Check the clearance atthree or four locations around each groove.Be sure to use the correct ring for eachgroove - they are different. If the side clear-ance is greater than specified, new pistonsmust be installed. If new pistons are installed,repeat this step with the new pistons andrings.11 Check the piston-to-bore clearance bymeasuring the cylinder bore (see Section 18)and the piston diameter. Make sure the pis-tons and bores are correctly matched. Mea-sure the piston across the skirt 11/16-inch(2.0L four-cylinder), 9/16-inch (2.4L four-cylinder) or 0.080 inch (V6 engine) above thebottom of the piston, at a 90-degree angle tothe piston pin (see illustration). Subtract thepiston diameter from the bore diameter toobtain the piston-to-bore clearance. If it'sgreater than the limit listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications, the block must be reboredand new pistons and rings installed.12 Check the piston-to-rod clearance bytwisting the piston and rod in opposite direc-tions. Any noticeable play indicates exces-

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-21

20.11 Measure the piston diameter 90degrees from the piston pin and the

specified distance from the bottom of thepiston skirt

21.1 Using a fine file, break the edge onthe crankshaft journal oil passages so

sharp edges won't gouge or scratch thenew bearings

21.2 Use a wire or stiff bristle brush toclean the crankshaft oil passages - besure to flush them with solvent after

this operation

21.4 An easy way to check the surface finish on the bearingjournals is to rub a penny over the bearing surface - if the coppertransfers to the crankshaft, the surface is too rough and must be

reground by an automotive machine shop

21.7 Measure the diameter of each bearing journal at severallocations to determine if it's excessively worn or taper and out-of-

round conditions exist

2C

sive wear, which must be corrected. The pis-ton/connecting rod assemblies should betaken to an automotive machine shop to havethe pistons and rods resized and new pinsinstalled.13 If the pistons must be removed from theconnecting rods for any reason, they shouldbe taken to an automotive machine shop fordisassembly. While at the automotive machineshop, have the connecting rods checked forbend and twist, since automotive machineshops have special equipment specificallyused for this purpose. Note: Unless new pis-tons and/or connecting rods must beinstalled, do not disassemble the pistons andconnecting rods.14 Inspect the connecting rods for cracksand other damage. Temporarily remove therod caps, lift out the old bearing inserts, wipethe rod and cap bearing surfaces clean andinspect them for nicks, gouges andscratches. After checking the rods, replacethe old bearings, slip the caps into place andtighten the nuts (or bolts as applicable) fingertight. Note: If the engine is being rebuilt

because of a connecting rod knock, always holes with a stone, file or scraper,install new rods. 6 Check the rest of the crankshaft for

cracks and other damage. It should be mag-nafluxed to reveal hidden cracks - an auto-motive machine shop will handle the proce-dure.7 Using a micrometer, measure the diam-eter of the main bearing and connecting rodjournals and compare the results to the toler-ances listed in this Chapter's Specifications(see illustration). By measuring the diameterat a number of points around each journal'scircumference, you'll be able to determinewhether or not the journal is out-of-round.Take the measurement at each end of thejournal, near the crank throws, to determine ifthe journal is tapered.8 If the crankshaft journals are damaged,tapered, out-of-round or worn beyond thelimits listed in this Chapter's Specifications,the crankshaft must be reground by an auto-motive machine shop. Be sure to obtain andinstall the correct size bearing inserts if thecrankshaft is reconditioned.9 Check the oil seal journals at each end

21 Crankshaft - inspection

Refer to illustration 21.1, 21.2, 21.4 and 21.71 Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oilholes with a stone, file or scraper (see illus-tration).2 Clean the crankshaft with solvent anddry it with compressed air (if available). Besure to clean the oil holes with a stiff brushand flush them with solvent (see illustration).Warning: If compressed air is used alwayswear eye protection to prevent solvents ordebris from causing and injury to your eyes.3 Check the main and connecting rodbearing journals for uneven wear, scoring,pits and cracks.4 Rub a penny across each journal severalti mes. If a journal picks up copper from thepenny, it's too rough and must be reground(see illustration).5 Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oil

2C-22

EXCESSIVE WEAR TAPERED JOURNAL22.1 Typical bearing wear patterns and probable causes

holes in a bearing shell, will also oil starve abearing and destroy it. When lack of lubrica-tion is the cause of bearing failure, the bear-ing material is wiped or extruded from thesteel backing of the bearing. Temperaturesmay increase to the point where the steelbacking turns blue from overheating.6 Driving habits can have a definite effecton bearing life. Full throttle, low speed opera-tion (lugging the engine) puts very high loadson bearings, which tends to squeeze out theoil film. These loads cause the bearings toflex, which produces fine cracks in the bear-ing face (fatigue failure). Eventually the bear-ing material will loosen in pieces and tearaway from the steel backing. Short trip driv-ing leads to corrosion of bearings becauseinsufficient engine heat is produced to driveoff the condensed water and corrosivegases. These products collect in the engineoil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil is car-ried to the engine bearings, the acid attacksand corrodes the bearing material.7 Incorrect bearing installation duringengine assembly will lead to bearing failureas well. Tight fitting bearings leave insuffi-cient bearing oil clearance and will result in oilstarvation. Dirt or foreign particles trappedbehind a bearing insert result in high spots onthe bearing which lead to failure.

23 Engine overhaul - reassemblysequence

of the crankshaft for wear and damage. If theseal has worn a groove in the journal, or if it'snicked or scratched, the new seal may leakwhen the engine is reassembled . In somecases, an automotive machine shop may beable to repair the journal by pressing on a thinsleeve. If repair isn't feasible, a new or differ-ent crankshaft must be installed.10 Refer to Section 22 and examine themain and rod bearing inserts.

22 Main and connecting rodbearings - inspection

Refer to illustration 22.11 Even though the main and connectingrod bearings should be replaced with newones during the engine overhaul, the oldbearings should be retained for close exami-nation, as they may reveal valuable informa-tion about the condition of the engine (seeillustration).2 Bearing failure occurs because of lackof lubrication, the presence of dirt or otherforeign particles, overloading the engine andcorrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearingfailure, it must be corrected before the engineis reassembled to prevent it from happeningagain.3 When examining the bearings, removethem from the engine block, the main bearingcaps, the connecting rods and the rod capsand lay them out on a clean surface in the

same general position as their location in theengine. This will enable you to match anybearing problems with the correspondingcrankshaft journal.4 Dirt and other foreign particles get intothe engine in a variety of ways. It may be leftin the engine during assembly, or it may passthrough filters or the PCV system. It may getinto the oil, and from there into the bearings.Metal chips from machining operations andnormal engine wear are often present. Abra-sives are sometimes left in engine compo-nents after reconditioning, especially whenparts are not thoroughly cleaned using theproper cleaning methods. Whatever thesource, these foreign objects often end upembedded in the soft bearing material andare easily recognized. Large particles will notembed in the bearing and will score or gougethe bearing and journal. The best preventionfor this cause of bearing failure is to clean allparts thoroughly and keep everything spot-lessly clean during engine assembly. Fre-quent and regular engine oil and filterchanges are also recommended.5 Lack of lubrication (or lubrication break-down) has a number of interrelated causes.Excessive heat (which thins the oil), overload-ing (which squeezes the oil from the bearingface) and oil leakage or throw off (fromexcessive bearing clearances, worn oil pumpor high engine speeds) all contribute to lubri-cation breakdown. Blocked oil passages,which usually are the result of misaligned oil

1 Before beginning engine reassembly,make sure you have all the necessary newparts, gaskets and seals as well as the fol-lowing items on hand:

Common hand toolsA 1/2-inch drive torque wrenchPiston ring installation toolPiston ring compressorPlastigage setFeeler gaugesA fine-tooth fileNew engine oilEngine assembly lube or moly-base

greaseGasket sealants (anaerobic and RTV

type)Thread locking compound

2 In order to save time and avoid prob-lems, engine reassembly should be per-formed in the following general order:

Piston rings installed on pistonsCrankshaft and main bearingsPiston/connecting rod assembliesRear main oil sealBalance shaft carrier (2.4L four-cylinder)Front case and oil pump assemblyOil panCylinder head(s) assemblyWater pumpTiming belt and sprocketsTiming belt cover(s)Rocker arm cover(s)Intake and exhaust manifoldsDriveplate

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-23

24.3 Install the piston ring into thecylinder then push it down into position

using a piston so the ring will be square inthe cylinder

24.4 With the ring square in the cylinder,measure the ring end gap with a

feeler gauge

24.5 If the ring end gap is too small,clamp a file in a vise as shown and file the

piston ring ends - be sure to remove allraised material

2C

24 Piston rings - installation

Refer to illustrations 24.3, 24.4, 24.5, 24.9a,24.9b, 24.11 and 24.121 Before installing the new piston rings,the ring end gaps must be checked. It'sassumed that the piston ring side clearancehas been checked and verified correct (seeSection 20).2 Lay out the piston/connecting rodassemblies and the new ring sets so the ringsets will be matched with the same pistonand cylinder during the end gap measure-ment and engine assembly.3 Insert the top (number one) ring into thefirst cylinder and square it up with the cylin-der walls by pushing it in with the top of thepiston (see illustration). The ring should benear the bottom of the cylinder, at the lowerlimit of ring travel.4 To measure the end gap, slip feelergauges between the ends of the ring until agauge equal to the gap width is found (seeillustration). The feeler gauge should slidebetween the ring ends with a slight amount ofdrag. Compare the measurement to the toler-ance listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Ifthe gap is larger or smaller than specified,double-check to make sure you have the cor-rect rings before proceeding.5 If the gap is too small, it must beenlarged or the ring ends may come in con-tact with each other during engine operation,which can cause serious damage to theengine. The end gap can be increased by fil-ing the ring ends very carefully with a fine file.Mount the file in a vise equipped with softjaws, slip the ring over the file with the endscontacting the file face and slowly move thering to remove material from the ends. Whenperforming this operation, file only by push-ing the ring from the outside end of the filetowards the vise (see illustration).6 Excess end gap isn't critical unless it'sgreater than the limit listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications. Again, double-check to makesure you have the correct ring type and that

24.9a Installing the spacer/expander inthe oil ring groove

you are referencing the correct section andcategory of specifications.7 Repeat the procedure for each ring thatwill be installed in the first cylinder and foreach ring in the remaining cylinders. Remem-ber to keep rings, pistons and cylindersmatched up.8 Once the ring end gaps have beenchecked/corrected, the rings can be installedon the pistons.9 The oil control ring (lowest one on thepiston) is usually installed first. It's composedof three separate components. Slip thespacer/expander into the groove (see illus-tration). If an anti-rotation tang is used, makesure it's inserted into the drilled hole in thering groove. Next, install the upper side rail inthe same manner (see illustration). Don't usea piston ring installation tool on the oil ringside rails, as they may be damaged. Instead,place one end of the side rail into the groovebetween the spacer/expander and the ringland, hold it firmly in place and slide a fingeraround the piston while pushing the rail intothe groove. Finally, install the lower side rail.10 After the three oil ring components havebeen installed, check to make sure that boththe upper and lower side rails can be rotatedsmoothly inside the ring grooves.

24.9b DO NOT use a piston ringinstallation tool when installing the oil

control side rails

24.11 Piston ring assembly details

11 The number two (middle) ring is installednext. It's usually stamped with a mark whichmust face up, toward the top of the piston. Donot mix up the top and middle rings, as theyhave different cross-sections (see illustra-tion). Note: Always follow the instructionsprinted on the ring package or box - differentmanufacturers may require different approach-es.

2C-24 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

25.5a On four-cylinder engines,install the upper bearings (with

grooves and holes) into theengine block. Be sure to align

the oil holes and install thethrust bearing in the center

bearing position (arrow)

OIL HOLES

LUBRICATION GROOVES

24.12 Use a piston ring installation tool toinstall the 2nd and top rings - be sure thedirectional mark on the piston ring(s) is

facing toward the top of the piston

12 Use a piston ring installation tool andmake sure the identification mark is facingthe top of the piston, then slip the ring intothe middle groove on the piston (see illustra-tion). Don't expand the ring any more thannecessary to slide it over the piston.13 Install the number one (top) ring in thesame manner. Make sure the mark is facingup. Be careful not to confuse the number oneand number two rings (see illustration24.11).14 Repeat the procedure for the remainingpistons and rings.

25 Crankshaft installation and mainbearing oil clearance check

1 Crankshaft installation is the first step inengine reassembly. It's assumed at this pointthat the engine block and crankshaft have

25.5b Main bearinginstallation details - four-

cylinder engines

been cleaned, inspected and repaired orreconditioned.2 Position the engine block with the bot-tom facing up.3 Remove the mounting bolts and lift offthe main bearing cap assembly.4 If they're still in place, remove the origi-nal bearing inserts from the block and themain bearing cap assembly. Wipe the bearingsurfaces of the block and main bearing capassembly with a clean, lint-free cloth. Theymust be kept spotlessly clean. This is criticalfor determining the correct bearing oil clear-ance.

Main bearing oil clearancecheckRefer to illustrations 25.5a, 25.5b, 25.5c,25.11, 25.13a, 25.13b, 25.13c and 25.155 Without mixing them up, clean the backsides of the new upper main bearing inserts(with grooves and oil holes) and lay one ineach main bearing saddle in the block. Eachupper bearing has an oil groove and oil holein it. Caution: The oil holes in the block mustline up with the oil holes in the upper bearinginserts. The thrust bearing insert or thrustwashers (V6 engine) must be installed in theNo. 3 bearing position (see illustrations). V6engines have two two-piece thrust washerswhich are installed on each side of the No. 3bearing. Install the thrust washers with thegrooved side toward the crankshaft (plainsides should be facing each other). Install thethrust washers so that one set has a tablocated in the block and the other set's tab isin the main bearing cap assembly. Clean theback sides of the lower main bearing inserts(without grooves) and lay them in the corre-sponding location in the main bearing capassembly. Make sure the tab on the bearinginsert fits into the recess in the block or mainbearing cap assembly. Caution: Do not ham-mer the bearing insert into place and don'tnick or gouge the bearing faces. DO NOTapply any lubrication at this time.6 Clean the faces of the bearing inserts inthe block and the crankshaft main bearingjournals with a clean, lint-free cloth.7 Check or clean the oil holes in thecrankshaft, as any dirt here can go only oneway - straight through the new bearings.8 Once you're certain the crankshaft is

GROOVED

25.5c Crankshaft main bearing and thrust washer arrangement - V6 engine

UPPERBEARINGS

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-25

* INDICATES DOWEL LOCATION

25.11 Place the Plastigage (arrow) onto the crankshaft bearing 25.13a Main bearing cap assembly bolt tightening sequence -journal as shown

clean, carefully lay it in position in the cylinderblock.9 Before the crankshaft can be perma-nently installed, the main bearing oil clear-ance must be checked. Note: On four-cylin-der engines, the crankshaft position sensormust be removed prior to main bearing oilclearance check (see Chapter 6 if necessary).10 On 2.0L four-cylinder engines, makesure the three locating dowels are in place onthe cylinder block. This is necessary forproper alignment of the main bearing capassembly to the cylinder block and crank-shaft.11 Cut several pieces of the appropriatesize Plastigage (they must be slightly shorterthan the width of the main bearing journal)and place one piece on each crankshaft mainbearing journal, parallel with the journal axisas shown (see illustration).12 Clean the faces of the bearing inserts inthe main bearing cap assembly. Hold thebearing inserts in place and install the assem-bly onto the crankshaft and cylinder block.

DO NOT disturb the Plastigage. Make sureyou install the main bearing cap assembly onV6 models with the arrow facing the front(ti ming belt end) of the engine.13 Apply clean engine oil to all bolt threadsprior to installation, then install all bolts fin-ger-tight. Tighten main bearing cap assemblybolts in the sequence shown (see illustra-tions) progressing in three steps, to the

2.0L four-cylinder engine

torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.DO NOT rotate the crankshaft at any timeduring this operation.14 Remove the bolts in the reverse order ofthe tightening sequence and carefully lift themain bearing cap assembly straight up andoff the block. Do not disturb the Plastigage orrotate the crankshaft. If the main bearing capassembly is difficult to remove, tap it gentlyfrom side-to-side with a soft-face hammer toloosen it.15 Compare the width of the crushed Plas-tigage on each journal to the scale printed on

25.15 Use the scale on the Plastigagepackage to determine the bearing oil

clearance - be sure to measure the widestpart of the Plastigage and use the correct

scale; it comes with both standard andmetric scales

25.13c Main bearing cap assembly bolt tightening sequence - V6 engine

25.13b Main bearing capassembly bolt tightening

sequence - 2.4L four-cylinder engine 2C

2C-26 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

25.21 On four-cylinderengines, apply a 1/16-inchbead of anaerobic sealer

( Mopar Torque Cure GasketMaker, or equivalent) to the

engine block as shown

the Plastigage envelope to determine themain bearing oil clearance (see illustration).Check the tolerance listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications to make sure it's acceptable.16 If the clearance is not as specified, thebearing inserts may be the wrong size (whichmeans different ones will be required). Beforedeciding if different inserts are needed, makesure that no dirt or oil was between the bear-ing inserts and the cap assembly or blockwhen the clearance was measured. If thePlastigage was wider at one end than theother, the crankshaft journal may be tapered(refer to Section 21). If the clearance stillexceeds the limit specified, the bearinginsert(s) will have to be replaced with anundersize bearing insert(s). Caution: Wheninstalling a new crankshaft always install astandard bearing insert set.17 Carefully scrape all traces of the Plasti-gage material off the main bearing journalsand/or the bearing insert faces. Be sure toremove all residue from the oil holes. Useyour fingernail or the edge of a plastic card -don't nick or scratch the bearing faces.

Final installationRefer to illustration 25.2118 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of thecylinder block.19 Clean the bearing insert faces in thecylinder block, then apply a thin, uniformlayer of moly-base grease or engine assem-bly lube to each of the bearing surfaces. Besure to coat the thrust faces as well as thejournal face of the thrust bearing. Caution:Be sure to install the thrust bearing inserts orthrust washers (V6 engine) in the No. 3 journal(see illustrations 25.5a, 25.5b and 25.5c).20 On 2.0L four-cylinder engines, install anew oil filter passage 0-ring seal and makesure the three locating dowels are in place onthe cylinder block. The dowels are necessaryfor proper alignment of the main bearing capassembly to the cylinder block andcrankshaft.21 On four-cylinder engines, clean the mainbearing cap assembly-to-cylinder block mat-ing surfaces. They must be free of any oilresidue. Apply a 1/16-inch bead of anaerobicsealer (Mopar Torque Cure Gasket Maker, orequivalent) to the cylinder block as shown(see illustration). Caution: Use ONLY anaer-obic sealant meeting the manufacturers spec-ifications or engine damage may occur.22 Make sure the crankshaft journals areclean, then lay the crankshaft back in place inthe cylinder block.23 Clean the bearing insert faces in themain bearing cap assembly, then apply thesame lubricant to them. Caution: On four-cylinder engines, DO NOT get any lubricanton the main bearing cap assembly-to-cylinderblock mating surfaces as it will inhibit thesealing ability of the anaerobic sealant.24 Hold the bearing inserts in place andinstall the main bearing cap assembly ontothe crankshaft and cylinder block. On four-cylinder engines, push the assembly down

until it contacts the locating dowels.25 Prior to installation, apply clean engineoil to all bolt threads wiping off any excess,then install all bolts finger-tight. On 2.0L four-cylinder engines, install baffle studs in posi-tions 12, 13 and 16 (see illustration 25.13a).26 On 2.0L four-cylinder engines, tightenthe main bearing cap assembly as follows(see illustration 25.13a):

a) Tighten bolts 11, 17 and 20 until theassembly contacts the engine block.

b) Tighten bolts 1 through 10 in thesequence shown, in 3 steps to thetorque listed in this Chapter's Specifica-tions.

c) Tighten bolts 11 through 20 in thesequence shown to the torque listed inthis Chapter's Specifications.

27 On 2.4L four-cylinder engines, tightenthe main bearing cap assembly as follows(see illustration 25.13b):

a) Tighten bolts 11, 17 and 20 until theassembly contacts the engine block.

b) To ensure correct thrust bearing align-ment, rotate the crankshaft until the No.4 piston is at TDC.

c) Carefully pry the crankshaft all the waytowards the rear of the block and thentowards the front of the block.

d) Wedge an appropriate tool such as ablock of wood, between the engineblock and the crankshaft counterweightto hold the crankshaft in the most for-ward position. DO NOT drive the wedgebetween the main bearing cap assemblyand the crankshaft.

e) Tighten bolts 1 through 10 in thesequence shown, in 3 steps to thetorque listed in this Chapter's Specifica-tions - except DO NOT tighten the boltsthe additional 1/4-turn.Remove the wedge and tighten bolts 1through 10 in the sequence shown, theadditional 1/4-turn.Tighten bolts 11 through 20 in thesequence shown to the torque listed inthis Chapter's Specifications.

28 On V6 engines, tighten the main bearingcap assembly bolts in the sequence shown(see illustration 25.13c) progressing in threesteps, to the torque listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications.29 After tightening the main bearing cap

assembly, tap the ends of the crankshaft for-ward and backward with a lead or brasshammer to seat the main bearing andcrankshaft thrust surfaces.30 Rotate the crankshaft a number of timesby hand to check for any obvious binding. Itshould rotate with a running torque of 50 in-lbs or less. If the running torque is too high,correct the problem at this time.31 Recheck the crankshaft endplay with afeeler gauge or a dial indicator as describedin Section 16. The endplay should be correctif the crankshaft thrust faces aren't worn ordamaged and new bearings have beeninstalled.32 Refer to the appropriate Part of Chap-ter 2 and install the new rear main oil seal.

26 Pistons and connecting rods -installation and rod bearing oilclearance check

1 Before installing the piston/connectingrod assemblies, the cylinder walls must beperfectly clean, the top edge of each cylinderbore must be chamfered, and the crankshaftmust be in place.2 Remove the cap from the end of thenumber one connecting rod (refer to themarks made during removal). Remove theoriginal bearing inserts and wipe the bearingsurfaces of the connecting rod and cap witha clean, lint-free cloth. They must be keptspotlessly clean.

Connecting rod bearing oilclearance checkRefer to illustrations 26.6, 26.11, 26.13 and26.14 and 26.173 Clean the back side of the new upperbearing insert, then lay it in place in the con-necting rod. Make sure the tab on the bearingfits into the recess in the rod. Don't hammerthe bearing insert into place and be verycareful not to nick or gouge the bearing face.Don't lubricate the bearing at this time.4 Clean the back side of the other bearinginsert and install it in the rod cap. Again,make sure the tab on the bearing fits into therecess in the cap, and don't apply any lubri-cant. It's critically important that the matingsurfaces of the bearing and connecting rod

f)

g)

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures 2C-27

26.11 Use a plastic or wooden hammerhandle to push the piston into the cylinder

26.13 Place Plastigage on eachconnecting rod bearing journal parallel to

the crankshaft centerline

26.14 Install the connecting rod capmaking sure the cap and rod identification

numbers match

2C

FRONT OF ENGINE

26.6 Position the piston ring end gapsas shown

are perfectly clean and oil free when they'reassembled.5 On V6 engines, slip a short section ofplastic or rubber hose over the connectingrod studs to avoid damaging the cylinder wallor crankshaft journal (see illustration 14.6).6 Position the piston ring gaps at 90-degree intervals around the piston as shown(see illustration).7 Lubricate the piston and rings with cleanengine oil and attach a piston ring compres-sor to the piston. Leave the skirt protrudingabout 1/4-inch to guide the piston into thecylinder. The rings must be compressed untilthey're flush with the piston.8 Rotate the crankshaft until the numberone connecting rod journal is at BDC (bottomdead center) and apply a liberal coat ofengine oil to the cylinder walls.9 With the weight designation mark, orarrow, on top of the piston facing the front(timing belt end) of the engine, gently insertthe piston/connecting rod assembly into thenumber one cylinder bore and rest the bot-tom edge of the ring compressor on theengine block. Note: The connecting rod alsohas a mark on it that must face the front (tim-ing belt end) of the engine if it faces theopposite direction, the piston and connectingrod have been assembled improperly.10 Tap the top edge of the ring compressorto make sure it's contacting the block aroundits entire circumference.11 Gently tap on the top of the piston withthe end of a wooden or plastic hammer han-dle (see illustration) while guiding the end ofthe connecting rod into place on thecrankshaft journal. The piston rings may try topop out of the ring compressor just beforeentering the cylinder bore, so keep somedownward pressure on the ring compressor.Work slowly, and if any resistance is felt asthe piston enters the cylinder, stop immedi-ately. Find out what's hanging up and fix itbefore proceeding. Do not, for any reason,'force the piston into the cylinder - you mightbreak a ring and/or the piston.12 Once the piston/connecting rod assem-bly is installed, the connecting rod bearing oil

clearance must be checked before the rodcap is permanently installed.13 Cut a piece of the appropriate size Plas-tigage slightly shorter than the width of theconnecting rod bearing and lay it in place onthe number one connecting rod journal, par-allel with the journal axis (see illustration).14 Clean the connecting rod cap bearingface and install the rod cap. Make sure themating mark on the cap is on the same sideas the mark on the connecting rod (see illus-tration). Note: Check to make sure the iden-tification mark on the connecting rod facestoward the front (timing belt) end of theengine.15 Install the old rod bolts or nuts, at thisti me, and tighten them to the torque listed inthis Chapter's Specifications, working up to itin three steps. Note: Use a thin-wall socket toavoid erroneous torque readings that canresult if the socket is wedged between therod cap and the bolt or nut. If the sockettends to wedge itself between the fastenerand the cap, lift up on it slightly until it nolonger contacts the cap. DO NOT rotate thecrankshaft at any time during this operation.16 Remove the fasteners and detach therod cap, being very careful not to disturb thePlastigage. Discard the cap bolts at this time

26.17 Use the scale on the Plastigagepackage to determine the bearing oil

clearance - be sure to measure the widestpart of the Plastigage and use the correct

scale; it comes with both standard andmetric scales

as they cannot be reused. Note: On four-cylinder engines, new connecting rod boltsmust be installed.17 Compare the width of the crushed Plas-tigage to the scale printed on the Plastigageenvelope to obtain the oil clearance (seeillustration). Compare it to the tolerancelisted in this Chapter's Specifications tomake sure the clearance is acceptable.18 If the clearance is not as specified, thebearing inserts may be the wrong size (whichmeans different ones will be required). Beforedeciding that different inserts are needed,make sure that no dirt or oil was between thebearing inserts and the connecting rod or capwhen the clearance was measured. Also,recheck the journal diameter. If the Plasti-gage was wider at one end than the other,the journal may be tapered (refer to Sec-tion 21). If the clearance still exceeds the limitspecified, the bearing will have to bereplaced with an undersize bearing. Caution:When installing a new crankshaft always use astandard size bearing.

NO. 2RING

GAP ANDSPACER

EXPANDERGAP

2C-28 Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

Final installation19 Carefully scrape all traces of the Plasti-gage material off the rod journal and/or bear-ing face. Be very careful not to scratch thebearing - use your fingernail or the edge of aplastic card.20 Make sure the bearing faces are per-fectly clean, then apply a uniform layer ofclean moly-base grease or engine assemblylube to both of them. You'll have to push thepiston into the cylinder to expose the face ofthe bearing insert in the connecting rod.21 Caution: On four-cylinder engines, newconnecting rod cap bolts must be installed atthis time. DO NOT reuse the old bolts as theyhave stretched and cannot be reused. Slidethe connecting rod back into place on thejournal, install the rod cap, install new boltsand tighten the bolts to the torque listed inthis Chapter's Specifications. Again, work upto the torque in three steps.22 Repeat the entire procedure for theremaining pistons/connecting rods.23 The important points to remember are:

a) Keep the back sides of the bearinginserts and the insides of the connectingrods and caps perfectly clean whenassembling them.

b) Make sure you have the correctpiston/rod assembly for each cylinder.

c) The mark on the piston must face thefront (timing belt end) of the engine.

d) Lubricate the cylinder walls liberally withclean oil.

e) Lubricate the bearing faces wheninstalling the rod caps after the oil clear-ance has been checked.

24 After all the piston/connecting rodassemblies have been properly installed,rotate the crankshaft a number of times byhand to check for any obvious binding.25 As a final step, the connecting rod end-play must be checked. Refer to Section 14for this procedure.26 Compare the measured endplay to thetolerance listed in this Chapter's Specifica-tions to make sure it's acceptable. If it wascorrect before disassembly and the originalcrankshaft and rods were reinstalled, itshould still be correct. If new rods or a newcrankshaft were installed, the endplay maybe inadequate. If so, the rods will have to beremoved and taken to an automotivemachine shop for resizing.

27 Initial start-up and break-in afteroverhaul

Warning: Have a fire extinguisher handywhen starting the engine for the first time.1 Once the engine has been installed inthe vehicle, double-check the engine oil andcoolant levels. Add transaxle fluid as needed.2 With the spark plugs out of the engineand the ignition system disabled (disconnectthe primary [low voltage] electrical connectorfrom the coil pack or distributor see Chap-ter 5), crank the engine until the oil pressurelight goes out. Caution: Do not crank theengine for more than 15 seconds at a time, asstarter motor could over-heat and damagecould occur.3 Install the spark plugs, hook up the plug

wires and restore the ignition system func-tions.4 Start the engine. It may take a fewmoments for the fuel system to build up pres-sure, but the engine should start without agreat deal of effort. Note: If backfiring occursthrough the throttle body, recheck the valvetiming and spark plug wire locations.5 After the engine starts, it should beallowed to warm up to normal operating tem-perature. Try to keep the engine speed atapproximately 2000 rpm. While the engine iswarming up, make a thorough check for fuel,oil and coolant leaks. Check the automatictransaxle fluid level (if so equipped).6 Shut the engine off and recheck theengine oil and coolant levels.7 Drive the vehicle to an area with mini-mum traffic, accelerate from 30 to 50 mph,then allow the vehicle to slow to 30 mph withthe throttle closed. Repeat the procedure 10or 12 times. This will load the piston rings andcause them to seat properly against the cylin-der walls. Check again for oil and coolantleaks.8 Drive the vehicle gently for the first 500miles (no sustained high speeds) and keep aconstant check on the oil level. It is notunusual for an engine to use oil during thebreak-in period.9 At approximately 500 to 600 miles,change the oil and filter.10 For the next few hundred miles, drivethe vehicle normally. Do not pamper it orabuse it.11 After 2000 miles, change the oil and fil-ter again and consider the engine broken in.

3-1

Chapter 3Cooling, heating and air conditioning systemsContents

Section SectionAir conditioning compressor - removal and installation ................. 13 Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement.................See Chapter 1Air conditioning condenser - removal and installation ................... 15 Engine cooling fans and circuit - check and replacement ............. 4Air conditioning evaporator and expansion valve - General information ........................................................................ 1

removal and installation............................................................ 16 Blower motor and circuit - check and replacement ....................... 9Air conditioning receiver-drier - removal and installation .............. 14 Heater core - replacement............................................................. 10Air conditioning and heating system - check

and maintenance...................................................................... 12Heater/air conditioner control assembly - removal, check

and installation.......................................................................... 11Antifreeze - general information ..................................................... 2 Radiator and coolant reservoir - removal

and installation.......................................................................... 5Coolant level check ...........................................................See Chapter 1Coolant temperature sending unit - check Thermostat - check and replacement ............................................ 3

and replacement...............................................................................8Cooling system check.......................................................See Chapter 1Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing

and refilling).................................................................See Chapter 1

Underhood hose check and replacement ........................ See Chapter 1Water pump - check .............................................................................. 6Water pump - replacement .................................................................... 7

Specifications

GeneralRadiator cap pressure rating............................................................................14 to 18 psiThermostat rating (opening temperature) .........................................................195 degrees FCooling system capacity ..................................................................................See Chapter 1Refrigerant capacity .........................................................................................28 ounces

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)Torque specificationsThermostat housing bolts/nuts

Four-cylinder engines ................................................................................. 110 in-lbsV6 engine....................................................................................................168 in-lbs

Water pump mounting boltsFour-cylinder engines ................................................................................. 105 in-lbsV6 engine....................................................................................................17

3

1 General information

Engine cooling systemAll vehicles covered by this manual

employ a pressurized engine cooling systemwith thermostatically controlled coolant circu-lation. An impeller-type water pump mountedon the front of the engine pumps coolantthrough the engine. The pump mountsdirectly on the engine block. The coolantflows around the combustion chambers andtoward the rear of the engine. Cast-in coolantpassages direct coolant near the intake ports,exhaust ports, and spark plug areas.

A wax pellet-type thermostat is locatedin a housing near the front of the engine. Dur-ing warm-up, the closed thermostat preventscoolant from circulating through the radiator.As the engine nears normal operating tem-perature, the thermostat opens and allowshot coolant to travel through the radiator,where it's cooled before returning to theengine.

The cooling system is sealed by a pres-sure-type cap, which raises the boiling pointof the coolant and increases the cooling effi-ciency of the system. If the system pressureexceeds the cap pressure relief value, theexcess pressure in the system forces thespring-loaded valve inside the cap off its seatand allows the coolant to escape through theoverflow tube into a coolant reservoir. Whenthe system cools the excess coolant is auto-matically drawn from the reservoir back intothe radiator.

The coolant reservoir does double dutyas both the point at which fresh coolant isadded to the cooling system to maintain theproper fluid level and as a holding tank foroverheated coolant. This type of cooling sys-tem is known as a closed design becausecoolant that escapes past the pressure cap issaved and reused.

Heating systemThe heating system consists of a blower

fan and heater core located in the heaterhousing, with hoses connecting the heater

core to the engine cooling system. Hot enginecoolant is circulated through the heater core.When the heater mode on the heater/air con-ditioning control panel on the instrumentpanel is activated, a flap door opens toexpose the heater core to the passengercompartment. A fan switch on the controlpanel activates the blower motor, whichforces air through the core, heating the air.

Air conditioning systemThe air conditioning system consists of

a condenser mounted in front of the radiator,an evaporator mounted adjacent to theheater core, a compressor mounted on theengine, receiver/drier which contains a highpressure relief valve and the plumbing con-necting all of the above components.

A blower fan forces the warmer air of thepassenger compartment through the evapo-rator core, transferring the heat from the air tothe refrigerant (sort of a "radiator in reverse").The liquid refrigerant boils off into low pres-sure vapor, taking the heat with it when itleaves the evaporator.

3-2 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system

THERMOSTAT HOUSING/ENGINE OUTLET

CONNECTOR

3.10a Thermostat installation details - 2.0L four-cylinder engine 3.10b Thermostat installation details - 2.4L four-cylinder engine

3.10c Thermostatinstallation details -

V6 engine

2 Antifreeze - general information

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come incontact with your skin or painted surfaces ofthe vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately withplenty of water. Antifreeze is highly toxic ifingested. Never leave antifreeze lying aroundin an open container or in puddles on thefloor; children and pets are attracted by it'ssweet smell and may drink it. Antifreeze isalso flammable, so don't store or use it nearopen flames. Check with local authoritiesabout disposing of used antifreeze. Manycommunities have collection centers whichwill see that antifreeze is disposed of safely.Never dump used anti-freeze on the groundor into drains.Note: Non-Toxic coolant is available at localauto parts stores. Although the coolant isnon-toxic when fresh, proper disposal is stillrequired.

The cooling system should be filled witha water/ethylene glycol based antifreezesolution, which will prevent freezing down toat least 20 degrees F, or lower if local climaterequires it. It also provides protection againstcorrosion and increases the coolant boilingpoint.

The cooling system should be drained,flushed and refilled at the specified intervals(see Chapter 1). Old or contaminatedantifreeze solutions are likely to cause dam-age and encourage the formation of rust andscale in the system. Use distilled water withthe antifreeze.

Before adding antifreeze, check all hoseconnections, because antifreeze tends to leakthrough very minute openings. Engines don'tnormally consume coolant, so if the level goesdown, find the cause and correct it.

The exact mixture of antifreeze-to-waterwhich you should use depends on the relativeweather conditions. The mixture should con-tain at least 50 percent antifreeze, but shouldnever contain more than 70 percent anti-freeze. Consult the mixture ratio chart on theantifreeze container before adding coolant.Hydrometers are available at most auto partsstores to test the coolant. Use antifreeze thatmeets the vehicle manufacturer's specifica-tions.

3 Thermostat - check andreplacement

Warning: Do not remove the coolant tankcap, drain the coolant or replace the thermo-stat until the engine has cooled completely.

Check1 Before assuming the thermostat is toblame for a cooling system problem, checkthe coolant level, drivebelt tension (seeChapter 1) and temperature gauge operation.2 If the engine seems to be taking a longtime to warm up (based on heater output ortemperature gauge operation), the thermostatis probably stuck open. Replace the thermo-stat with a new one.3 If the engine runs hot, use your hand tocheck the temperature of the upper radiatorhose. If the hose isn't hot, but the engine is,the thermostat is probably stuck closed, pre-venting the coolant inside the engine fromescaping to the radiator. Replace the thermo-stat. Caution: Don't drive the vehicle withouta thermostat. The computer may stay in openloop and emissions and fuel economy willsuffer.4 If the upper radiator hose is hot, itmeans that the coolant is flowing and thethermostat is open. Consult the Trou-bleshooting Section at the front of this man-ual for cooling system diagnosis.

ReplacementRefer to illustrations 3.10a, 3.10b and 3.10c5 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower

(see Chapter 5, section 1).6 Drain the cooling system (see Chap-ter 1). If the coolant is relatively new or ingood condition, save it and reuse it.7 Follow the upper radiator hose to theengine to locate the thermostat housing.8 Loosen the hose clamp, then detach thehose from the fitting. If it's stuck, grasp itnear the end with a pair of adjustable pliersand twist it to break the seal, then pull it off. Ifthe hose is old or deteriorated, cut it off andinstall a new one.9 If the outer surface of the large fittingthat mates with the hose is deteriorated (cor-roded, pitted, etc.) it may be damaged furtherby hose removal. If it is, the thermostat hous-ing cover will have to be replaced.10 Remove the fasteners and detach thehousing cover (see illustrations). If the coveris stuck, tap it with a soft-face hammer to jarit loose. Be prepared for some coolant to spillas the gasket seal is broken.11 Note how it's installed (which end is fac-ing up), then remove the thermostat.12 Remove all traces of old gasket materialand sealant from the housing and cover witha gasket scraper.13 Using a new 0-ring, install the thermo-stat on the housing, spring-end facing into theengine block and the vent facing up. Install anew gasket (if equipped) and place it on thethermostat housing, lining up the bolt holes.14 Install the cover and fasteners. Tightenthe fasteners to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications.15 Reattach the hose to the fitting andtighten the hose clamp securely.16 Refill the cooling system (see Chap-ter 1).

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system 3-3

4.1a The high-speed and low-speed fans are mounted in onehousing, with a harness connecting them to the

RFI module (arrow)

17 Start the engine and allow it to reachnormal operating temperature, then check forleaks and proper thermostat operation (asdescribed in Steps 2 through 4). See Chap-ter 1 for cooling system air-bleeding proce-dure.

4.l b Disconnect the fan connector (arrow) and try operating thefan with a fused battery-voltage jumper wire and a ground wire

4 Engine cooling fans and circuit -check and replacement

Warning: To avoid possible injury or damage,DO NOT operate the engine with a damagedfan. Do not attempt to repair fan blades -replace a damaged fan with a new one.Note: Always be sure to check for blownfuses before attempting to diagnose an elec-trical circuit problem.

CheckRefer to illustrations 4.1a, 4. lb, 4.3, and 4.41 If the engine is overheating and thecooling fan is not coming on, unplug the elec-trical connector at the motor and use fusedjumper wires to connect the fan directly tothe battery. If the fan still doesn't work,replace the motor. test each motor sepa-rately. They are connected to an RFI module(Radio Frequency Interference), with the low-speed motor having a two-pin connector and

a three-pin connector on the high-speed fan(see illustrations).2 If the motor is OK, but the cooling fandoesn't come on when the engine gets hot,the fault may be in the coolant temperaturesensor in the thermostat housing, the fanrelays, the engine control computer or thewiring which connects the components.3 The engine coolant temperature sensoris located in the thermostat housing andvaries resistance with temperature to signalthe PCM (see illustration). A test for check-ing the sensor is found in Chapter 6.4 Remove the fan relays (one low-speedand one high-speed relay) from the PowerDistribution Center. Using an ohmmeter,measure the resistance between terminals Aand C of the relay (see illustration), it shouldread approximately 75 ohms. Check for con-tinuity between terminals B and D, thereshould be no continuity. Using fused jumperwires, apply battery voltage (+) to terminal Aand ground (-) terminal C; the relay should"click" and continuity should be indicatedbetween terminals B and D.5 Carefully check all wiring and connec-tions (wiring diagrams are included at the endof Chapter 12). If no obvious problems arefound, further diagnosis should be done by adealer service department or repair shop withthe proper diagnostic equipment.

4.3 The coolant temperature sensor(arrow) is located at the front of the

engine, next to the thermostat

ReplacementRefer to illustrations 4.7, 4.8a, 4.8b, 4.9 and4.106 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1). Disconnect thefan motor electrical connector (see illustra-tion 4.1a).7 Remove the upper radiator crossmem-ber, either detaching the four bolts and laying

4.4 Cooling fan relay terminal guide - there should be continuitybetween A and C, and no continuity between B and D unless

battery power is applied to A and ground applied to C

4.7 Remove the four bolts and the isolators on the upper radiatorcrossmember (arrows) - if necessary, remove the bolts securing

the shroud and remove the shroud

3-4 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system

4.8a Remove the fan shroud mounting bolts (arrows) 4.8b Detach the wire harness from the shroud

it aside, or also removing the two bolts to thelatch and removing the crossmember entirely(see illustration).8 Remove the fan shroud mounting bolts,detach the clips at the top and bottom of theshroud with a small screwdriver, detach thewire harness clips from the shroud, thencarefully lift the fan assembly out of theengine compartment (see illustrations).Note: It is easier to remove the fan assemblyif the upper radiator hose is disconnected firstfrom the radiator.9 To detach the fan blade from the motor,remove the nut or retaining clip from themotor shaft (see illustration). Remove thefan blade from the motor.10 To detach the motor from the shroud,remove the retaining nuts or screws (seeillustration). Remove the motor from theshroud.11 Installation is the reverse of removal.Note: When reinstalling the fan assembly,make sure the rubber air shields around theassembly are still in place - without them, thecooling system may not work efficiently.

5 Radiator and coolant reservoir -removal and installation

Warning: Wait until the engine is completelycool before beginning this procedure.

RadiatorRemovalRefer to illustration 5.61 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Drain the cooling system (see Chap-ter 1). If the coolant is relatively new and ingood condition, save it and reuse it.3 Remove the upper radiator crossmem-ber and cooling fan assembly (see Section 4).4 Disconnect the overflow hose from theradiator filler neck.5 Loosen the hose clamps, then detachthe upper and lower coolant hoses from theradiator. If they're stuck, grasp each hose

4.9 The fan blade is retained to the motorwith either a nut or a clip (arrow)

near the end with a pair of adjustable pliersand twist it to break the seal, then pull it off -be careful not to distort the radiator fittings! Ifthe hoses are old or deteriorated, cut themoff and install new ones.6 Disconnect and plug the transmissionfluid cooler lines (see illustration).7 Remove the two upper radiator-to-bodymounting bolts. At this point, if the vehicle isequipped with air conditioning, there are twoways to remove the radiator. If the condenseris staying in the vehicle, remove the four con-denser-to-radiator mounting screws (acces-sible through the lower openings in the frontof the body) and the one screw in the air con-ditioning line on the passenger side, and theradiator can be pulled up. Note: Make surethe rubber radiator insulators (they fit on thebottom of the radiator and into sockets in thebody) remain in place in the body for properreinstallation of the radiator.8 If the condenser is being removed (andthe air conditioning system has already beenevacuated of refrigerant), disconnect thecondenser lines (see Section 15) and removethe radiator and condenser as a unit, separat-ing the two components outside of the vehi-cle where the fasteners are easier to get at.Warning: The air conditioning system isunder high pressure. Do not loosen any hose

4.10 To remove the fan motor from theshroud, remove the three screws (arrows)

fittings or remove any components until afterthe system has been discharged by a dealerservice department or service station. Alwayswear eye protection when disconnecting airconditioning system fittings.9 Carefully lift out the radiator. Don't spillcoolant on the vehicle or scratch the paint.10 Check the radiator for leaks and dam-age. If it needs repair, have a radiator shop or

5.6 Detach the transmission cooler lines

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system 3-5

5.18 Remove the mounting bolt andremove the coolant reservoir from the

vehicle for cleaning or replacement

dealer service department perform the work,as special techniques are required.11 Remove bugs and dirt from the radiatorwith compressed air and a soft brush (don'tbend the cooling fins).

Installation12 Inspect the radiator mounts for deterio-ration and ensure they are clean of dirt orgravel when the radiator is installed.13 Installation is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Make sure the radiator is properlyseated on the lower mounting insulatorsbefore fastening the top brackets.14 After installation, fill the cooling systemwith the proper mixture of antifreeze andwater (see Chapter 1).15 Start the engine and check for leaks.Allow the engine to reach normal operatingtemperature, indicated by the upper radiatorhose becoming hot. Recheck the coolantlevel and add more if required.16 If you're working on an automatictransaxle equipped vehicle, check and addfluid as needed.

Coolant reservoirRefer to illustration 5.1817 Detach the hoses at the reservoir. Plug

the hoses to prevent leakage.18 Remove the reservoir retaining bolt andlift the reservoir out of the engine compart-ment (see illustration).19 Installation is the reverse of removal.While the reservoir is off the vehicle, it shouldbe cleaned with soapy water and a brush toremove any deposits inside.

6 Water pump - check

1 A failure in the water pump can causeserious engine damage due to overheating.2 There are three ways to check the oper-ation of the water pump while it's installed onthe engine. If the pump is defective, it shouldbe replaced with a new or rebuilt unit.3 Water pumps are equipped with weepor vent holes. If a failure occurs in the pumpseal, coolant will leak from the hole. In mostcases you'll need a flashlight to find the holeon the water pump from underneath to checkfor leaks. Note: Some small black stainingaround the weep hole is normal. If the stain isheavy brown or actual coolant is evident,replace the pump.4 If the water pump shaft bearings failthere may be a howling sound at the front ofthe engine while it's running. With the engineoff, shaft wear can be felt if the water pumppulley is rocked up-and-down. Don't mistakedrivebelt slippage, which causes a squealingsound, for water pump bearing failure.5 A quick water pump performance checkis to put the heater on. If the pump is failing, itwon't be able to efficiently circulate hot waterall the way to the heater core as it should.

7 Water pump - replacement

Four-cylinder enginesRefer to illustration 7.121 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Raise the vehicle and support it securely

on jackstands.3 Remove the right inner splash shield(see Chapter 11).4 Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter 1).5 Drain the cooling system (see Chap-ter 1).6 Using a floorjack (with a wood blockplaced between the jackhead and the oil panto prevent engine damage), support theengine from underneath and remove the rightengine mount.7 Remove the power steering pumpbracket bolts and move the power steeringpump and bracket aside. The power steeringli nes do not have to be disconnected.8 Remove the right engine mount bracket(see Chapter 2).9 Remove the timing belt (see Chapter 2).10 Remove the inner timing belt cover (seeChapter 2).11 Remove the bolts attaching the waterpump to the engine block and remove thepump.12 Install a new 0-ring in the water pumpbody groove (see illustration).13 Installation is the reversal of removal.Tighten the mounting bolts to the torqueli sted in this Chapter's specifications.14 Reinstall the pulleys and drive belts andcheck for tension (see Chapter 1).15 Refill the cooling system (see Chap-ter 1). Run the engine and check for leaks.

V6 engineRefer to illustrations 7.18 and 7.2116 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1). Remove the drive-belts and drain the cooling system (seeChapter 1).17 Refer to Chapter 2, Part B and removethe crankshaft damper/pulley, timing beltcovers and timing belt.18 Remove the water pump mounting bolts(see illustration).19 Separate the pump from the water inletpipe and remove the pump.20 Clean all the gasket and 0-ring surfaceson the pump and the water pipe inlet tube.21 Install a new 0-ring on the water inlet

3

7.18 Remove the water pump bolts (arrows) - V6 engine7.12 Install a new 0-ring onto the water pump

3-6 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system

7.21 Install a new 0-ring on the waterinlet pipe (arrow)

pipe (see illustration). Wet the 0-ring withwater to facilitate assembly.22 Install a new gasket on the water pumpand install the inlet opening over the waterpipe. Press the water pipe into the pumphousing.23 Install the water pump mounting boltsand tighten the bolts to the torque listed inthis Chapter's specifications.24 Install the timing belt (see Chapter 2B).25 The remainder of installation is thereverse of removal.26 Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1)and operate the engine to check for leaks.

8 Coolant temperature sendingunit - check and replacement

Warning: Wait until the engine is completelycool before beginning this procedure.

Check1 The coolant temperature indicator sys-tem is composed of a light or temperaturegauge mounted in the dash and a coolanttemperature sending unit mounted on theengine (see illustration 4.3). On the modelscovered by this manual, there is only onecoolant temperature sensor, which functionsas indicator to both the PCM and the instru-ment panel.2 If an overheating indication occurs,check the coolant level in the system andthen make sure the wiring between the lightor gauge and the sending unit is secure andall fuses are intact.3 When the ignition switch is turned onand the starter motor is turning, the indicatorli ght (if equipped) should be on (overheatedengine indication).4 If the light is not on, the bulb may beburned out, the ignition switch may be faultyor the circuit may be open.5 As soon as the engine starts, the lightshould go out and remain out unless theengine overheats. Failure of the light to go

out may be due to a grounded wire betweenthe light and the sending unit, a defectivesending unit or a faulty ignition switch. SeeChapter 6 for a diagnostic check of thecoolant temperature switch. Check the cool-ant to make sure it's the proper type. Note:Plain water may have too low a boiling pointto activate the sending unit.

ReplacementWarning: Wait until the engine is completelycool before beginning this procedure.6 Disconnect the electrical connectorfrom the sensor.7 Wrap the threads of the new sensor withTeflon tape to prevent leaks.8 Unscrew the sensor. Be prepared forsome coolant spillage (read the Warning inSection 2).9 Install the sensor and tighten it securely.10 Connect the electrical connector.11 Check the coolant level after thereplacement unit has been installed and topup the system, if necessary (see Chapter 1).Check now for proper operation of the gaugeand sending unit. Observe the system forleaks after operation.

9 Blower motor and circuit - checkand replacement

Warning: These models are equipped withairbags, always disable the airbag systembefore working in the vicinity of the impactsensors, steering column or instrument panelto avoid the possibility of accidental deploy-ment of the airbag, which could cause per-sonal injury (see Chapter 12).

CheckRefer to illustrations 9.3 and 9.71 Check the fuse and all connections inthe circuit for looseness and corrosion. Makesure the battery is fully charged.2 Remove the lower right dash insulatorpanel (below the glove box) for access to theblower motor. Note: When reinstalling thispanel, be sure the left end fits properly into itsrecess in the ducting.3 Using suitable probes, backprobe theblower motor electrical connector at theresistor and connect the positive probe of thevoltmeter to the dark blue wire and the nega-tive probe to the black wire (see illustration).4 With the transmission in Park, the park-ing brake securely set, turn the ignitionswitch On. It isn't necessary to start the vehi-cle.5 Move the blower switch through each ofits positions and note the voltage readings.Changes in voltage indicate that the motorspeeds will also vary as the switch is movedto the different positions.6 If there is voltage present, but theblower motor does not operate, the blowermotor is probably faulty. Disconnect theblower motor connector and hook one side toa chassis ground and the other to a fused

source of battery voltage. If the blower does-n't operate, it is faulty.7 If voltage was not present at the blowermotor at all speeds, and the motor itselftested OK, the problem is in the blower motorresistor, the blower switch in the controlpanel assembly or the related wiring. Tocheck the resistor, remove the two screwsand remove the resistor from the heaterhousing. Using an ohmmeter, check for con-tinuity across each of the resistor terminals(see illustration). If an open circuit is indi-cated, replace the resistor assembly. To testthe blower switch, refer to Section 11,remove the control panel assembly andcheck for continuity through the switch ineach position. Refer to the wiring diagrams atthe end of Chapter 12 to determine the cor-rect terminals for testing.

ReplacementRefer to illustration 9.118 Disconnect the battery negative cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).9 Detach the panel underneath the right

9.3 Using suitable probes, backprobe theblower harness plug (twisted pair of wires)

at the blower motor resistor block -connect a voltmeter to the dark blue wire(+) and black wire (-), voltage should varyas the blower switch is moved through

each position

9.7 To test the blower resistor, check forcontinuity at each of the

resistor terminals

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system 3-7

9.11 Remove the screws retaining the blower motor to theheater housing (arrow)

10.6 Remove the heater core cover

10.2 Disconnect the heater hoses at the firewall

10.7 Withdraw the heater core from the housing3

end of the dash. It has four fasteners, all ofthem facing up - two screws in front (sidetoward the passenger seat) and two sheetmetal nuts on the backside (toward thefirewall).10 Disconnect the wiring connector at theblower motor resistor.11 Remove the screws retaining the blowermotor to the heater housing (see illustra-tion).12 Lower the blower motor from thehousing

.13 The fan is balanced with the blowermotor, and is available only as an assembly.f the fan is damaged, both fan and blowermotor must be replaced.14 Installation is the reverse of removal.

10 Heater core - replacement

Refer to illustrations 10.2, 10.6 and 10.7Warning: These models are equipped withairbags, always disable the airbag systembefore working in the vicinity of the impactsensors, steering column or instrument panel•o avoid the possibility of accidentaldeploy-ment of the airbag, which could cause

personal injury (see Chapter 12).Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1)

and disconnect the negative battery cable'from the ground stud on the left shock towersee Chapter 5, Section 1).

2 Disconnect the heater hoses at the fire -

wall (see illustration). Note: On V6 models, itmay be necessary to remove the upper intakemanifold to access the heater hoses (seeChapter 2B).3 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove theradio/air conditioning control panel bezel, theinstrument panel bezel and end covers andthe knee bolster.4 Remove the center console from thevehicle (see Chapter 11).5 Remove two screws at the lower rightside support beam, the bolt for the instru-ment panel support at the A-pillar andremove the right side instrument panel sup-port strut.6 Remove the heater core cover screwsand the cover (see illustration).

7 Withdraw the heater core from the hous-ing (see illustration).8 If the heater core has been leaking,clean the coolant from the heater/air condi-tioning housing. Note: If a significant amountof coolant has leaked into the housing, it isrecommended that the complete heater/airconditioning housing be removed from thevehicle, disassembled and thoroughlycleaned (see Section 16).9 Installation is the reverse of removal. Besure to refill the cooling system (see Chap-ter 1).

11 Heater/air conditioner controlassembly - removal, check andinstallation

Warning: These models are equipped withairbags, always disable the airbag systembefore working in the vicinity of the impactsensors, steering column or instrument panelto avoid the possibility of accidental deploy-ment of the airbag, which could cause per-sonal injury (see Chapter 12).

RemovalRefer to illustrations 11.2, 11.3 and 11.71 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Remove the trim bezel from the instru-ment panel (see illustration).

TRIMBEZEL

11.2 Remove the radio/controlmodule bezel

3-8 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system

3 Remove the three cluster hood screwsfrom the trim bezel opening (see illustra-tion).4 Pry up the cluster hood bezel a fewinches to expose the cubby bin screws.5 Disconnect the wiring and remove thecubby bin.6 Remove the control module screws (seeillustration 11.3).7 Lower the control module into the cubbybin opening (see illustration) and disconnectthe wiring harness from the rear of the controlmodule.8 Release the cable clips from the top ofthe control module. Retain the clips for fur-ther use. Disconnect the temperature controland the recirculation control cables.9 Remove the control module.

CheckRefer to illustration 11.1110 Remove the control module (see Stepsabove).11 Using an ohmmeter, measure the resis-tance between terminals 5 and 8 of the con-trol module 8-way connector (see illustra-tion). Turn the control module to each posi-tion and check the resistance as follows:

a) PANEL = 828 to 856 ohmsb) BI-LEVEL = 1280 to 1300 ohmsc) FLOOR = 2300 to 2358 ohmsd) MIX = 5200 to 5300 ohmse) DEFROST = 99 to 100 K-ohms

12 If any resistance is not correct, replacethe control module.13 If the resistance's are correct, check forblown fuses, damaged wiring, bad connec-tions, defective Body Control Module (BCM) orbulkhead connector. Refer to the wiring dia-

grams at the end of Chapter 12, if necessary.14 Further testing of the system can beaccomplished with the use of a special scantool; see a dealer or other qualified repairshop.

c) Pull the cable housing away from thecable end to remove all freeplay and clipthe cable housing to the control module.

d) Verify the knob travels through its fullrange.

12 Air conditioning and heatingsystem - check and maintenance

Warning: The air conditioning system isunder high pressure. Do not loosen any hosefittings or remove any components until afterthe system has been discharged by a dealerservice department or air conditioning servicestation. Always wear eye protection when dis-connecting air conditioning system fittings.1 The following maintenance checksshould be performed on a regular basis toensure the air conditioner continues to oper-ate at peak efficiency.

a) Check the compressor drivebelt. If it'sworn or deteriorated, replace it (seeChapter 1).

b) Check the drivebelt tension and, if nec-essary, adjust it (see Chapter 1).

c) Check the system hoses. Look forcracks, bubbles, hard spots and deterio-ration. Inspect the hoses and all fittingsfor oil bubbles and seepage. If there'sany evidence of wear, damage or leaks,replace the hose(s).Inspect the condenser fins for leaves,bugs and other debris. Use a "fin comb"or compressed air to clean the con-denser.Make sure the system has the correctrefrigerant charge.

f) Check the evaporator housing draintube for blockage.

2 It's a good idea to operate the systemfor about 10 minutes at least once a month,particularly during the winter. Long term non-use can cause hardening, and subsequentfailure, of the seals.3 Because of the complexity of the air con-ditioning system and the special equipmentnecessary to service it, in-depth troubleshoot-ing and repairs are not included in this manual(refer to the Haynes Automotive Heating andAir Conditioning Repair Manual). However.simple checks and component replacementprocedures are provided in this Chapter.4 The most common cause of poor cool-ing is simply a low system refrigerant charge.If a noticeable drop in cool air output occurs.the following quick check will help you deter-mine if the refrigerant level is low.

Checking the refrigerantcharge5 Warm the engine up to normal operatingtemperature.6 Place the air conditioning temperatureselector at the coldest setting and the blowerat the highest setting. Open the doors (tomake sure the air conditioning system doesnot cycle off as soon as it cools the passen-ger compartment).7 With the compressor engaged - theclutch will make an audible click and the cen-ter of the clutch will rotate - note the temper-ature of the compressor inlet and dischargelines. If the compressor discharge line feelswarm and the compressor inlet pipe feelscool, the system is properly charged.8 Place a thermometer in the dashboard

Installation d)15 Installation is the reverse of removal. Ifnecessary, adjust the cables as follows:

a) Attach the cable to the control modulelever. e)

b) Rotate the knob fully counterclockwise.

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system 3-9

12.12 Cans of R-134A refrigerant areavailable in auto parts stores that can be

added to your system with a simplerecharging kit

vent nearest the evaporator and operate thesystem until the indicated temperature isaround 40 to 45 degrees F. If the ambient(outside) air temperature is very high, say 110degrees F, the duct air temperature may beas high as 60 degrees F, but generally the airconditioning is 30-50 degrees F cooler thanthe ambient air. Note: Humidity of the ambi-ent air also affects the cooling capacity of thesystem. Higher ambient humidity lowers theeffectiveness of the air conditioning system.

Adding refrigerantRefer to illustration 12.129 Buy an automotive charging kit at anauto parts store. A charging kit includes a 14-ounce can of refrigerant, a tap valve and ashort section of hose that can be attachedbetween the tap valve and the system lowside service valve. Because one can of refrig-erant may not be sufficient to bring the sys-tem charge up to the proper level, it's a goodidea to buy an additional can. Make sure thatone of the cans contains red refrigerant dye.

If the system is leaking, the red dye will leakout with the refrigerant and help you pinpointthe location of the leak. Caution: There aretwo types of refrigerant used in automotivesystems; R-12 - which has been widely usedon earlier models and the more environmen-tally-friendly R-134a used in all models cov-ered by this manual. These two refrigerants(and their appropriate refrigerant oils) are notcompatible and must never be mixed or com-ponents will be damaged. Use only R-134arefrigerant in the models covered by thismanual.10 Hook up the charging kit by followingthe manufacturer's instructions. Warning:DO NOT hook the charging kit hose to thesystem high side! The fittings on the chargingkit are designed to fit only on the low side ofthe system.11 Back off the valve handle on the charg-ing kit and screw the kit onto the refrigerantcan, making sure first that the 0-ring or rub-ber seal inside the threaded portion of the kitis in place. Warning: Wear protective eye-wear when dealing with pressurized refriger-ant cans.12 Remove the dust cap from the low-sidecharging connection and attach the quick-connect fitting on the kit hose (see illustra-tion).13 Warm up the engine and turn on the airconditioner. Keep the charging kit hose awayfrom the fan and other moving parts. Note:The charging process requires the compres-sor to be running.14 Turn the valve handle on the kit until thestem pierces the can, then back the handleout to release the refrigerant. You should beable to hear the rush of gas. Add refrigerant tothe low side of the system until both thereceiver-drier surface and the evaporator inletpipe feel about the same temperature. Allowstabilization time between each addition.15 If you have an accurate thermometer,you can place it in the center air conditioningduct inside the vehicle and keep track of the"conditioned" air temperature. A chargedsystem that is working properly should cool

down to approximately 40 degrees F. If theambient (outside) air temperature is very high,say 110 degrees F, the duct air temperaturemay be as high as 60 degrees F, but gener-ally the air conditioning is 30 to 40 degrees Fcooler than the ambient air.16 When the can is empty, turn the valvehandle to the closed position and release theconnection from the low-side port. Replacethe dust cap. Warning: Never add more thantwo cans of refrigerant to the system.17 Remove the charging kit from the canand store the kit for future use with the pierc-ing valve in the UP position, to prevent inad-vertently piercing the can on the next use.

13 Air conditioning compressor -removal and installation

Warning: The air conditioning system isunder high pressure. DO NOT disassembleany part of the system (hoses, compressor,line fittings, etc.) until after the system hasbeen evacuated and the refrigerant recoveredby a dealer service department or air condi-tioning service station.Note: The filter-drier/receiver-drier (see Sec-tion 14) should be replaced whenever thecompressor is replaced.

RemovalRefer to illustrations 13.3, 13.5 and 13.61 Have the system discharged (see theWarning at the beginning of this Section).2 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).3 Unplug the electrical connector from thecompressor clutch (see illustration).4 Remove the drivebelt (see Chapter 1).5 Disconnect the refrigerant lines from thecompressor (see illustration). Plug the openfittings to prevent entry of dirt and moisture.6 Unbolt the compressor from the mount-ing bracket (see illustration) and lift it out ofthe vehicle.

3

13.3 Unplug the electrical connector(arrow) from the compressor clutch

13.5 Remove the retaining bolts, detachand plug the refrigerant lines at

the compressor

13.6 To detach the compressor from itsmounting bracket, remove these

bolts (arrows)

3-10 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system

14.4 Using a back-up wrench to preventdamage to the fittings, disconnect the

refrigerant lines (arrows) from thereceiver-drier

Installation7 If a new compressor is being installed,pour out the oil from the old compressor intoa graduated container and add that amountof new refrigerant oil to the new compressor.Also follow any directions included with thenew compressor.8 The clutch may have to be transferredfrom the original to the new compressor.9 Installation is the reverse of removal.Replace all 0-rings with new ones specifi-cally made for use with R-134a refrigerantand lubricate them with R-134a-compatiblerefrigerant oil.10 Have the system evacuated, rechargedand leak tested by the shop that dischargedit.

14 Air conditioning receiver-drier -removal and installation

Warning: The air conditioning system isunder high pressure. DO NOT disassembleany part of the system (hose, compressor,line fittings, etc.) until after the system hasbeen evacuated and the refrigerant recoveredby a dealer service department or air condi-tioning service station.Caution: Replacement filter-drier/receiver-drier units are so effective at absorbing mois-ture that they can quickly saturate upon expo-sure to the atmosphere. When installing anew unit, have all tools and supplies ready forquick reassembly to avoid having the systemopen any longer than necessary.

RemovalRefer to illustration 14.41 The receiver-drier acts as a reservoir forthe system refrigerant. It's located on theright side of the engine compartment, next tothe radiator and condenser.2 Have the system discharged (see theWarning at the beginning of this Section).3 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower

15.4 Remove the upper radiatorsupport crossmember

(see Chapter 5, Section 1).4 Disconnect the refrigerant lines from thereceiver-drier (see illustration). Use a back-up wrench to prevent twisting the tubingwhere it joins the condenser.5 Plug the open fittings to prevent entry ofdirt and moisture.6 Remove the bracket bolt at the base ofthe receiver/drier. Spread the aluminumclamp and remove the receiver/drier.

Installation7 Installation is the reverse of removal. If anew receiver-drier is being installed add oneounce of refrigerant oil to it before installa-tion.8 Take the vehicle back to the shop thatdischarged it. Have the system evacuated,recharged and leak tested.

15 Air conditioning condenser -removal and installation

Warning: The air conditioning system isunder high pressure. Do not loosen any hosefittings or remove any components until afterthe system has been discharged by a dealerservice department or air conditioning servicestation. Always wear eye protection when dis-connecting air conditioning system compo-nents.Note: The receiver-drier should be replacedwhenever the condenser is replaced (seesection 14).

RemovalRefer to illustrations 15.4 and 15.51 Have the system discharged (see theWarning at the beginning of this Section).2 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).3 Remove the radiator grille (see Chap-ter 11).4 Remove the upper radiator supportcrossmember (see illustration).5 Using the appropriate quick-connect

15.5 Using the appropriate quick-connectcoupling tool, disconnect the air

conditioner condenser lines (A) from thecondenser and remove the

mounting bolts (B)

coupling tools (available at auto parts stores),disconnect and cap the air conditioning linesat the condenser (see illustration).6 Remove the radiator fan module mounts.7 Remove the condenser line supportbracket.8 Remove the condenser mounting bolts(see illustration 15.5).9 Remove the condenser from the vehicle.

Installation10 Installation is the reverse of removal. If anew condenser is being installed add oneounce of refrigerant oil to it before installa-tion.11 Take the vehicle back to the shop thatdischarged it. Have the system evacuated,recharged and leak tested.

16 Air conditioning evaporator andexpansion valve - removal andinstallation

Warning 1: These models are equipped withairbags, always disable the airbag systembefore working in the vicinity of the impactsensors, steering column or instrument panelto avoid the possibility of accidental deploy-ment of the airbag, which could cause per-sonal injury (see Chapter 12).Warning 2: The air conditioning system isunder high pressure. Do not loosen any hosefittings or remove any components until afterthe system has been discharged by a dealerservice department or air conditioning servicestation. Always wear eye protection when dis-connecting air conditioning system compo-nents.Note: Evaporator removal on these models isa difficult undertaking for the home mechanic.It can be done, but it requires discharging theair conditioning system, disconnecting thepassenger airbag system and a great manywiring connectors under the dash and remov-ing the complete instrument panel assembly.

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system 3-11

16.3 Disconnect and cap the refrigerantli nes from the expansion valve

16.15 Remove the evaporator probe fromthe evaporator core

16.17 Remove the clips retaining the twohousing sections

16.18a Pull the two sections apart .. .

EVAPORATORHOUSING

HEATERDISTRIBUTION

HOUSING

16.18b . . . and separate the heater housing from theevaporator housing

3

The air conditioning evaporator is containedin a two-piece housing which must beremoved from under the dash and separatedinto two halves.

Expansion valveNote: The expansion valve can be replacedwithout removing the evaporator from thevehicle or removed along with the evaporator.

RemovalRefer to illustration 16.31 Have the system discharged (see theWarning at the beginning of this Section).2 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).3 Remove the security clips from expan-sion valve refrigerant line quick-connect fit-tings. Using the appropriate quick-connectcoupling tools (available at auto parts stores),disconnect and cap the air conditioning linesat the expansion valve (see illustration).4 Remove the retaining bolts and separatethe expansion valve from the evaporator.

Installation5 Installation is the reverse of removal.Install new 0-ring seals on the expansionvalve and lubricate them with R-134a-com-patible refrigerant oil prior to installation.6 Take the vehicle back to the shop thatdischarged it. Have the system evacuated,recharged and leak tested.

Evaporator

RemovalRefer to illustrations 16.15, 16.17, 16.18a,16.18b and 16.207 Have the system discharged (see theWarning at the beginning of this Section).8 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).9 Drain the cooling system. Disconnectthe heater hoses from the heater core at thefirewall (see Section 10). Cap the heater corefittings to prevent spilling coolant on the inte-rior when the housing is removed.10 Disconnect and cap the refrigerant lines

from the expansion valve (see above).11 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove thecomplete instrument, panel assembly.12 Remove the center air distribution ductsfrom the heater/air conditioning housing.13 Disconnect any wiring harness connec-tors attached to the housing.14 Remove the bolts securing the heat-er/air conditioning housing to the bulkheadand carefully remove the housing from thevehicle.15 Using a screwdriver, pry the locking taboff the evaporator probe. Twist the evapora-tor probe access cover 1/4-turn clockwiseand remove the cover. Carefully withdraw theevaporator probe from the evaporator core(see illustration).16 Remove the recirculating door inletcover.17 Remove the clips retaining the housingsections together (see illustration).18 Separate the evaporator housing fromthe heater/distribution housing (see illustra-tions).19 Remove the seal around the evaporator

3-12 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system

tube inlet.20 Remove the evaporator housing uppercover (see illustration).21 Withdraw the evaporator core from thehousing.

InstallationNote: When installing a new evaporator,always use a new gasket on the expansionvalve (see illustration) and reinstall the tem-perature sensor from the old core into thenew core before installation.22 Installation is the reverse of removal. If anew evaporator is being installed, add oneounce of new, R-134a-compatible refrigerantoil into it prior to installation.23 Take the vehicle back to the shop thatdischarged it. Have the system evacuated,recharged and leak tested.

EVAPORATORHOUSING

COVER

16.20 Remove theevaporator housing

upper cover

Chapter 4Fuel and exhaust systemsContents

SectionAccelerator cable - replacement ..........................................................10Air cleaner assembly - removal and installation ................................... 9Air filter - replacement ...................................................... See Chapter 1CHECK ENGINE light........................................................See Chapter 6Exhaust system servicing - general information.................................. 18Fuel filter - removal and installation .....................................................15Fuel injection system - general check ................................................. 12Fuel injection system - general information ......................................... 11Fuel level sending unit - check and replacement ..................................8Fuel pressure regulator and fuel inlet strainer - replacement .............. 14

Fuel pressure relief procedure ............................................................... 2Fuel pump module - removal and installation........................................7Fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator - check............................................3Fuel rail and injectors - check, removal and installation ......................16Fuel tank - removal and installation ....................................................... 5Fuel tank cleaning and repair - general information.............................. 6General information ................................................................................1Idle Air Control (IAC) motor - check and replacement .........................17Quick-connect fittings and fuel lines - disassembly, assembly

and replacement...............................................................................4Throttle body - check, removal and installation ...................................13

4Specifications

GeneralFuel pressure................................................................................................... 47 to 51 psiFuel injector resistance (approximate)............................................................. 12 to 15 ohms @ 68-degrees FFuel level sending unit resistance (approximate)

Full position.................................................................................................50 ohms (minimum)Empty position............................................................................................1040 to 1060 ohms

Torque specifications Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)Fuel rail mounting bolts

Four-cylinder engines.................................................................................200 in-lbsV6 engine.................................................................................................... 106 in-lbs

Fuel tank drain plug ......................................................................................... 32 in-lbsFuel tank strap bolts........................................................................................ 44Idle Air Control motor-to-throttle body screws ................................................25 in-lbsThrottle body mounting bolts

Four-cylinder engines.................................................................................200 in-lbsV6 engine....................................................................................................250 in-lbs

1 General information

The vehicles covered by this manual areequipped with a sequential Multi-Port FuelInjection (MPFI) system. This system usesti med impulses to sequentially inject the fueldirectly into the intake ports of each cylinder.The injectors are controlled by the PowertrainControl Module (PCM). The PCM monitorsvarious engine parameters and delivers theexact amount of fuel, in the correct

sequence, to the intake ports. It also controlsthe engine idle speed via the idle air controlmotor which is mounted to the throttle body.

All models are equipped with an electricfuel pump which is located inside the fueltank. It is necessary to remove the fuel tankto gain access to the fuel pump. The fuel levelsending unit is an integral component of thefuel pump and it must be removed from thefuel tank in the same manner. These vehiclesare equipped with a "returnless" fuel system.In this system the fuel pressure regulator is

part of the fuel pump/fuel level sending unitand also located inside the fuel tank. Regu-lated fuel is sent to the fuel rail and excessfuel is bled off directly into the fuel tank.

The exhaust system consists of theexhaust manifold(s), a catalytic converter, anexhaust pipe and a muffler. Each of thesecomponents is replaceable. For further infor-mation regarding the catalytic converter, referto Chapter 6.

4-2 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

2.3 The fuel pump module electrical connector is located in thetrunk, under the mat near the base of the left shock tower

3.4 On four-cylinder engines, connect a fuel pressure gauge tothe fuel rail at the test port

2 Fuel pressure relief procedure

Refer to illustration 2.3Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable,so take extra precautions when you work onany part of the fuel system. Don't smoke orallow open flames or bare light bulbs near thework area, and don't work in a garage wherea natural gas-type appliance (such as a waterheater or a clothes dryer) with a pilot light ispresent. Since gasoline is carcinogenic, wearlatex gloves when there's a possibility ofbeing exposed to fuel, and if you spill any onyour skin, rinse it off immediately with soapand water. Mop up any spills immediately anddo not store fuel-soaked rags where theycould ignite. The fuel system is under con-stant pressure, so, if any fuel lines are to bedisconnected, the pressure must be relievedfirst. When you perform any kind of work onthe fuel system, wear safety glasses and havea Class B type fire extinguisher on hand.1 Remove the fuel filler cap to relieve thefuel tank pressure.2 Working inside the trunk, fold back thetrunk mat near the base of the left shocktower.3 Locate the fuel pump electrical connec-tor and disconnect it from the wiring harness(see illustration).4 Next, start the engine and allow it to rununtil it stops. This should only take a few sec-onds. Crank the engine again, to ensure thefuel pressure is completely relieved. Beforeworking on any part of the fuel system, dis-connect the negative battery cable from theground stud on the left shock tower (seeChapter 5, Section 1).5 Even after the fuel pressure has beenrelieved, always lay a shop towel over anyfuel connection that is to be separated toabsorb the residual fuel that will leak out.6 When you are finished working on thefuel system, reconnect fuel pump electricalconnector to the wiring harness. Turn theignition key to the ON position a few times topressurize the system and check the serviced

area for leaks.7 Install the fuel filler cap and tighten itsecurely. Note: If the fuel filler cap sealallowsthe fuel tank pressure to escape because of adamaged seal or it has not been tightenedsufficiently, the CHECK ENGINE light will illu-minate on the instrument panel.

3 Fuel pump/fuel pressureregulator - check

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable,so take extra precautions when you work onany part of the fuel system (see the Warningin Section 2).Note 1: These vehicles are equipped with a"returnless" fuel system in which the fuelpressure regulator is part of the fuel pumpmodule and located inside the fuel tank.Note 2: The fuel pump will operate as long asthe engine is cranking or running and thePCM is receiving ignition reference pulsesfrom the electronic ignition system. If thereare no reference pulses, the fuel pump willshut off after approximately 1 second.Note 3: To perform the fuel pressure check,you will need to obtain a fuel pressure gaugeand adapter set (fuel line fittings). On V6engines, the fuel supply line is not equippedwith a fuel pressure test port (Schrader valvefitting). A special fuel pressure test adapter(factory tool No. 6539 or equivalent) must beinstalled between the fuel supply line and thefuel rail.

Preliminary checkNote: On all models, the fuel pump is locatedinside the fuel tank (see Section 7).1 If you suspect insufficient fuel delivery,first inspect all fuel lines to ensure that theproblem is not simply a leak in a line.2 Set the parking brake and remove thefuel filler cap. Have an assistant turn the igni-tion switch to the ON position while you listenat the fuel filler neck opening. You shouldhear a "whirring" sound, lasting for a coupleof seconds. Start the engine. The whirring

sound should now be continuous (althoughharder to hear with the engine running). Ifthere is no sound, either the fuel pump fuses,fuel pump, fuel pump relay, automatic shut-down (ASD) relay or related circuits aredefective (proceed to Step 15).

System pressure checkRefer to illustrations 3.4 and 3.53 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce-dure (see Section 2).4 On four-cylinder engines, remove thecap from the fuel pressure test port (Schradervalve fitting) on the fuel rail and attach a fuelpressure gauge (see illustration).5 On V6 engines, the fuel supply line is notequipped with a fuel pressure test port(Schrader valve fitting). A special fuel pres-sure test adapter (factory tool No. 6539 orequivalent) must be installed between the fuelsupply line and the fuel rail. Disconnect thefuel supply line from the fuel rail (see Sec-tion 4) and install the fuel pressure testadapter between the supply line and the fuelrail (see illustration). Attach a fuel pressuregauge to the test adapter fitting.6 Start the engine and observe the pres-sure reading on the gauge. Compare it withthe pressure listed in this Chapter's Specifi-cations.7 If the fuel pressure is higher than speci-fied, check for a kinked or restricted fuel linebetween the fuel filter and fuel pump module.If the line is OK, replace the fuel pressure reg-ulator (see Section 14).8 If the fuel pressure is lower than speci-fied, replace the fuel filter (see Section 15)and perform the pressure check again. If it'sstill low, remove the fuel pump module (seeSection 7) and inspect the fuel inlet strainerfor obstructions. If it's clogged, replace thestrainer. If the strainer is OK, replace the fuelpump.9 If there is no fuel pressure, check thefuel pump, ASD and fuel pump relays as out-li ned below.10 Next, verify that the system holds pres-sure. Note the fuel pressure with the engine

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-3

3.5 On V6 engines, a special fuel pressure test adapter must beinstalled between the fuel supply line and the fuel rail

125015-4-3.17HAYNES

3.17 Fuel pump module electrical connector (body harness side)

Fuel pump (positive feed)Fuel level sending unit (signal)Fuel pump (ground)Fuel level sending unit (ground)

1234

running, then turn off the engine and observethe reading on the fuel pressure gauge. Thefuel pressure should remain constant for aminimum of one minute. A drop of more than5 psi in one minute indicates an unaccept-able leak in the system. If the pressure dropis unacceptable, first visually inspect the sys-tem for obvious leaks, especially at the quickconnect fittings.11 If there aren't any obvious leaks, the fuelis escaping either from one or more of thefuel injectors or the fuel pressure regulator.12 On four-cylinder engines, to perform thefollowing check it is necessary to install thespecial fuel pressure test adapter (factorytool No. 6539 or equivalent) between the fuelrail and the fuel supply line. Perform the fuelrelief procedure (see Section 2) and install theadapter and gauge set-up.13 To determine where the fuel system isleaking, pressurize the fuel system. With theengine OFF, isolate the fuel injectors bypinching off the rubber hose on the specialfuel pressure test adapter (factory tool No.6539 or equivalent) between the fuel pressuregauge and the fuel supply line. Observe the

reading on the fuel pressure gauge. If the fuelpressure bleeds down there is a leak at oneor more of the injectors. Refer to Section 16for further testing and replacement proce-dures.14 If the pressure remains constant, thefuel injectors are OK and the fuel pressureregulator must be replaced (see Section 14).After the pressure tests are complete, per-form the fuel pressure relief procedure (seeSection 2), remove the fuel pressure gaugeand adapter (if used) and assemble thequick-connect fittings (see Section 4).

Component checksNote: The fuel pressure regulator check is partof the system pressure check (see above).Fuel pumpRefer to illustration 3.1715 If you cannot hear the fuel pump oper-ate when energized (refer to preliminarycheck above), use a test light or voltmeter toverify the pump is receiving battery voltage.16 Working inside the trunk, fold back thetrunk mat near the base of the left shock

tower. Locate the fuel pump 4-pin electricalconnector and disconnect it (see illustra-tion 2.3).17 Connect a test light or voltmeter to thefuel pump positive feed and ground terminalsof the electrical connector (see illustration).18 Have an assistant crank the engine -battery voltage should be present at the elec-trical connector. If voltage is present, replacethe fuel pump. If voltage is not present, checkthe ASD and fuel pump relays (see below).

ASD and fuel pump relaysRefer to illustrations 3.20a, 3.20b, 3.21a,3.21b, 3.23, 3.24 and 3.25Note: The Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relayand the fuel pump relay must both be testedto insure proper fuel pump operation. Testingprocedures for the ASD relay and the fuelpump relay are identical.19 To access the relay box where the ASDrelay is located, remove air cleaner assembly(see Section 9).20 To test a relay, first remove it from itslocation in the engine compartment PowerDistribution Center (PDC) (see illustrations).

4

3.20a The Automatic Shutdown relay (arrow) is located in thePower Distribution Center under the square cover

3.20b The fuel pump relay (arrow) is located in the PowerDistribution Center under the rectangular cover

4-4 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

TERMINAL LEGEND

NUMBER IDENTIFICATION30 COMMON FEED85 COIL GROUND86 COIL BATTERY87 NORMALLY OPEN87A NORMALLY CLOSED

TERMINAL LEGENDNUMBER IDENTIFICATION

30 COMMON FEED85 COIL GROUND86 COIL BATTERY87 NORMALLY OPEN

87A NORMALLY CLOSED

3.21a ASD and fuel pump relay terminal identification(rectangle type)

3.21b ASD and fuel pump relay terminal identification(square type)

21 Verify that there is battery voltage at theterminal in the PDC that corresponds withterminal 30 of the relay (see illustrations).This terminal should have voltage present atall times. Now check the terminal in the PDCthat corresponds with terminal 86 on therelay - it should have voltage present onlywith the ignition key in the ON position.22 If there is no voltage, check the fuelpump fuses in cavities 8 and 10 in the PDC. Ifvoltage is not present at the fuse, check thewiring and connectors to the PDC for a short,broken wire or a bad connection.23 Next, check relay operation by connect-ing the probes of an ohmmeter to terminals86 and 85 and measure the resistance. Thereshould be approximately 75 ohms resistance(see illustration).24 Now connect the ohmmeter probes toterminals 30 and 87A and check for continu-ity. Continuity should be present (see illus-tration).25 Check for continuity between terminals30 and 87 (see illustration). There should beno continuity.26 Next, with the ohmmeter still connectedto relay terminals 87 and 30, use jumper

wires to connect the relay to the battery.Connect the battery positive terminal to relayterminal 86 and the battery negative terminalto relay terminal 85. Continuity should existbetween terminals 87 and 30 when terminals86 and 85 are energized. If continuity is notpresent, replace the relay.

4 Quick-connect fittings and fuellines - disassembly, assemblyand replacement

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable,so take extra precautions when you work onany part of the fuel system (see the Warningin Section 2).

General information1 Always perform the fuel pressure reliefprocedure (see Section 2) before servicingfuel lines or fittings.2 The fuel supply and vapor lines extendfrom the fuel tank to the engine compartment.The lines are constructed of steel, plastic andrubber. They are secured to the underbodywith clips and brackets. These lines should be

inspected for leaks, kinks and dents anytimethe vehicle is raised for service.3 If evidence of dirt is found in the fuelsystem or fuel filter during service, theaffected line should be disconnected andblown out. Check the fuel inlet strainer on thefuel pump module for blockage or contami-nation (see Section 14).

Quick-connect fittings4 Chrysler uses three different types ofquick-connect fittings to join various fuelli nes and components. The first type uses asingle-tab retainer, the second type a two-tab retainer and the third type incorporates aplastic retainer ring (usually black in color)which connects/disconnects much like acommon compressed air hose fitting. Someare equipped with safety latch clips. The fit-tings are equipped with non-serviceable 0-ring seals located in the female part of the fit-ting. In the event the fitting or tubingbecomes damaged or develops a leak,replace the entire fuel line/quick-connect fit-ting as an assembly. Always use originalequipment parts, or parts that meet orexceed the original equipment standards.

3.23 Measure the resistance betweenterminals 86 and 85 - it should be

approximately 75 ohms

3.24 Measure the resistance betweenterminals 30 and 87A - continuity

should be present

3.25 Check for continuity betweenterminals 30 and 87 - there

should be no continuity

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-5'

4.5a Cross-sectional view of a two-tab quick-connectfuel line fitting

WINDOW TAB (2)

4.5b When properly assembled, the tab ear and shoulder onthe male fitting should be visible in the window

Single and two-tab retainer fittingsDisassemblyRefer to illustrations 4.5a, 4.5b, 4.9a and 4.9b5 These quick-connect fittings have one or2 windows (depending on type) located in theside(s) of the female fitting. When the male fit-ting is inserted into the female, the tab(s) onthe male engage in the window(s) and lock thefitting together (see illustrations).6 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce-dure (see Section 2).7 Remove all fasteners, brackets or clipssecuring the lines as applicable.8 Clean the area around the fitting toremove dirt and foreign debris.9 Depress the retaining tab(s) on thequick-connect fitting and pull it apart (seeillustrations). Note: The retaining tabs andshoulder should remain on the metal fuel lineafter separation.

Assembly10 Clean the male part of the fitting andli ghtly lubricate it with clean engine oil.11 Position the retaining tab ears on thetube so they align with the windows in thefemale fitting and push them together. Youshould hear the fitting snap into place as theretaining tab ears lock into the windows.12 Verify the fitting is properly fastened bytrying to pull the lines apart.13 Secure the fuel line using any clips orbrackets as applicable.14 Pressurize the system and check forleaks.

Plastic retainer ring fittingsDisassemblyRefer to illustration 4.1815 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce-dure (see Section 2).16 Remove all fasteners, brackets or clipssecuring the lines as applicable.17 Clean the area around the fitting toremove dirt and foreign debris.18 Grasp the male line and push it in(towards the fitting). While applying pressureon the male line, press the plastic retainer ringinto the female fitting and then pull the maleli ne from the female fitting (see illustration).Note: The plastic retainer ring must be pushed

4.9b ... and separate the fitting - toassemble it, lubricate the male end with a

small amount of clean engine oil, then pushthe fitting together until it locks into place -tug on it to ensure the connection is secure

into the female fitting squarely! If it getscocked, the fitting will be difficult to separate. Ifnecessary, use an open-end wrench applied tothe plastic retainer to assist in evenly pressingit into the female fitting. The plastic retainerring should remain attached to the female fit-ting after separation.

Assembly19 Clean the male part of the fitting andli ghtly lubricate it with clean engine oil.20 Insert the male end into the female andpush them together (see illustration 4.18).You should hear the retainer ring snap into

4.9a Depress the plastic tabs onthe male fitting .. .

INSTALLATION

PLASTICRETAINER

4.18 Plastic retainer ring type quick-connect fitting removal and installation

4-6 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

5.6 Fuel tank drain plug (arrow)

FUEL PUMPMODULE

5.9 Fuel pump module fuel line fittings

place as it locks the fitting together. Makesure the retainer ring is fully extended afterassembly.21 Verify the fitting is properly fastened bytrying to pull the lines apart.22 Secure the fuel line using any clips orbrackets as applicable.23 Pressurize the system and check forleaks.

Fuel lines - replacementSteel tubing24 If replacement of a metal line is required,disassemble the applicable quick-connect fit-tings as described above and remove the linefrom the vehicle. If the quick-connect fitting isdamaged or leaks, replace the affected sec-tion of fuel line/quick-connect fittings as anassembly.25 If the quick-connect fittings are accept-able, a new piece of steel tubing may bespliced-in to replace a damaged section byflaring the tubing ends and joining them with aunion. Use tubing that meets or exceeds orig-inal equipment standards. Do not use copperor aluminum tubing to replace steel tubing.These materials cannot withstand normalvehicle vibration. Do not use a rubber hose toreplace a damaged section of steel tubing!26 When installing the replacement sectioninto the line, assemble the quick-connect fit-tings first, then tighten the unions. Warning:Metal lines must never be allowed to rubagainst other components or each other. Aminimum of 1/4-inch clearance must bemaintained to prevent contact unless it isproperly secured.27 After replacing the line or section, pres-surize the system and check for leaks.

Plastic lines28 If replacement of a plastic line isrequired, disassemble the applicable quick-connect fittings as described above andremove the line from the vehicle. The plasticli nes used on these vehicles are not service-able. If replacement is required, the affectedsection of fuel line/quick-connect fittings

must be replaced as an assembly.29 Install the new line onto the vehicle andassemble the quick-connect fittings as appli-cable (see above). Secure the line to the vehi-cle as required. Warning: Plastic lines mustnever be allowed to rub against other compo-nents or each other. A minimum of 1/4-inchclearance must be maintained to preventcontact unless it is properly secured. Do notroute plastic fuel lines within four inches ofany part of the exhaust system or within teninches of the catalytic converter.30 After replacing the line, pressurize thesystem and check for leaks.

Rubber hosesWarning: Fuel-injected vehicles use speciallyconstructed hoses. Only use hoses markedEFM/EFI. Replace with only original equip-ment hoses, or hoses that meet or exceedoriginal equipment standards. Others mayhave a lower fatigue threshold.31 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce-dure (see Section 2).32 Loosen the clamps securing the hoseand remove it from the vehicle.33 Installation is the reverse of removal.Warning: Do not route rubber fuel hoseswithin four inches of any part of the exhaustsystem or within ten inches of the catalyticconverter. Rubber hoses must never beallowed to rub against other components oreach other. A minimum of 1/4-inch clearancemust be maintained to prevent contact withother components unless it is properlysecured.34 After replacing the hose, pressurize thesystem and check for leaks.

5 Fuel tank - removal andinstallation

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable,so take extra precautions when you work onany part of the fuel system (see the Warningin Section 2).

RemovalRefer to illustrations 5.6 and 5.91 Remove the fuel tank filler cap to relievefuel tank pressure.2 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce-dure (see Section 2).3 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).4 Working inside the trunk, fold back thetrunk mat near the base of the left shocktower. Locate the fuel pump wiring har-ness 4-pin connector and disconnect it fromthe wiring harness (see illustration 2.3). Fol-low the fuel pump wiring to the grommet atthe base of the rear seat. Push the grommetthrough the floorpan and feed the wiringand 4-pin connector through the hole.5 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands.6 Position an approved gasoline containerunder the fuel tank drain plug. If necessary,use a funnel to prevent spilling fuel. Warning:The fuel tank capacity is 16 gallons. Unlessthe fuel tank is almost empty, be prepared tocollect a significant amount of fuel. Do notleave the fuel tank draining operation unat-tended. Be prepared to replace the drain plugin case the fuel tank capacity exceeds thecontainer capacity. Remove the drain plug(see illustration) and allow the fuel to exit thefuel tank.7 After the fuel has finished draining,replace the drain plug and tighten it to thetorque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.Warning: There will be approximately 1 to 2gallons of fuel remaining inside the tank.8 Loosen the clamp and detach the fillerneck hose from the fuel tank. Warning: Theremay be fuel inside the filler neck and hose,protect yourself accordingly.9 Disconnect the quick-connect fuel linefittings (see Section 4 if necessary) from thefuel pump module (see illustration).10 At the rear of the fuel tank, detach thevapor hose from the rollover valve.11 Support the fuel tank with a floor jack.

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-7

FUEL LEVELSENSOR

7.6a Fuel pump module - component identification 7.6b When removing the fuel pump module from the fuel tank,slightly angle the module to avoid damaging the fuel

level sending unit float arm

Place a piece of wood between the jack headand the fuel tank to protect the tank.12 Remove the fuel tank strap bolts andstraps.13 On 1998 models, slightly lower the fueltank and detach the EVAP canister purgeli ne. Remove the hoses from the EVAP canis-ter (see Chapter 6 if necessary) and discon-nect the electrical connector from the LeakDetection Pump (LDP). Note: Before discon-necting any lines or hoses, clearly label thehose and fitting so they can be reinstalled intheir proper locations.14 Slightly lower the fuel tank and thenslide it forward to allow the filler neck to clearthe rear suspension crossmember. Removethe tank from the vehicle.

Installation15 Installation is the reverse of removal.However, before installing the fuel tank, tie alength of string or wire to the fuel pump mod-ule wiring harness and route it through thehole in the trunk floorpan. Once the fuel tankis securely in position, pull the string toaccess the wiring harness.16 Tighten the fuel tank strap bolts to thetorque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.

6 Fuel tank cleaning and repair -general information

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable,so take extra precautions when you work onany part of the fuel system. (See the Warningin Section 2).1 The fuel tank on these vehicles is madeof plastic and is not repairable.2 If the fuel tank is removed from the vehi-cle, do not place it in an area where sparks oropen flames could ignite the fuel vaporsescaping from the tank. Be especially carefulinside a garage where a natural gas-typeappliance is located, because the pilot lightcould cause an explosion.

7 Fuel pump module - removal andinstallation

Warning 1: Gasoline is extremely flammable,so take extra precautions when you work onany part of the fuel system (see the Warningin Section 2).Warning 2: The fuel reservoir in the fuelpump module does not empty when the fueltank is drained. This fuel will drain out whenthe fuel pump module is removed from thefuel tank - protect yourself accordingly.Caution: Be sure to change the fuel pumpmodule 0-ring seal whenever the assembly isremoved for service.Note: The fuel pump module consists of thefollowing components; fuel pump, fuel pres-sure regulator, fuel inlet strainer and fuel levelsending unit.

RemovalRefer to illustrations 7.6a and 7.6b1 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce-dure (see Section 2).2 Disconnect the negative cable from theremote battery terminal.3 Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle(see Section 5).4 Clean the top of the fuel tank around thefuel pump module to remove any dirt ordebris.5 Using a large pair of pliers, remove thefuel pump module ring nut. Caution: Do notapply too much pressure on the ring nut dur-ing removal or damage may result.6 Remove the fuel pump module from thetank (see illustrations). Angle the assemblyslightly to avoid damaging the fuel level send-ing unit float arm. Remove and discard the 0-ring seal.7 The electric fuel pump is not service-able. In the event of failure, the completeassembly must be replaced. The only ser-viceable parts on the fuel pump module arethe fuel inlet strainer, fuel pressure regulatorand the fuel level sending unit.

8 For service procedures on the fuel pres-sure regulator and inlet strainer refer to Sec-tion 14.9 For service procedures on the fuel levelsending unit refer to Section 8.

Installation10 Clean sealing area on the fuel tank.Obtain the new fuel pump module 0-ringseal. Lightly lubricate the 0-ring seal withclean engine oil and install it on the fuel tankopening.11 Carefully insert the fuel pump moduleinto the fuel tank. Align the tab on the fuelpump module with the notch in the fuel tank.12 While holding the fuel pump module inplace, install the ring nut, tightening itsecurely. Caution: Over-tightening the ringnut may result in a leak.13 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal.

8 Fuel level sending unit - checkand replacement

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable,so take extra precautions when you work onany part of the fuel system (see the Warningin Section 2).Note: The fuel pump module consists of thefollowing components; fuel pump, fuel pres-sure regulator, fuel inlet strainer and fuel levelsending unit.

CheckRefer to illustrations 8.3, 8.9 and 8.10In-vehicle1 Begin this procedure with the fuel tankcompletely full.2 Working inside the trunk, fold back thetrunk mat near the base of the left shocktower. Locate the fuel pump wiring harness4-pin connector and disconnect it from thewiring harness (see illustration 2.3).

4

4-8 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

1 Fuel level sending unit (ground)2 Fuel pump (ground)3 Fuel level sending unit (signal)4 Fuel pump (positive feed)

FUEL PUMP FUEL PUMPGROUND VOLTAGE SUPPLY

LEVEL SENSORGROUND

8.3 Fuel pump module electrical connector (fuel pump side)terminal identification

8.9 Measuring the resistance of the fuel level sending unit withthe float arm in the FULL position

8.10 Measuring the resistance of the fuel level sending unit withthe float arm in the EMPTY position

8.13 Disconnect the electrical connector from the base of the fuelpump module flange

3 Connect the probes of an ohmmeter tothe fuel level sending unit terminals of the fuelpump module electrical connector and mea-sure the resistance (see illustration). Com-pare the measured resistance to the valueli sted in this Chapter's Specifications. If theresistance is less than specified, replace thefuel level sending unit.4 Next, drive the vehicle until the fuel tankis nearly empty or drain the fuel tank via thedrain plug into a container approved to holdgasoline (see Section 5).5 With the fuel tank empty, check theresistance again (see illustration 8.3). Com-pare the measured resistance to the valueli sted in this Chapter's Specifications. If theresistance is out of tolerance, replace the fuellevel sending unit.

Removed from vehicle6 A more thorough check of the fuel levelsending unit can be performed with the send-ing unit removed from the vehicle.7 Remove the fuel pump module (seeSection 7).8 Connect the probes of an ohmmeter tothe fuel level sending unit terminals of the fuel

pump module electrical connector (see illus-tration 8.3).9 First, check the resistance of the send-ing unit with the float arm in the FULL posi-tion (see illustration). Compare the mea-sured resistance to the value listed in thisChapter's Specifications. If the resistance isless than specified, replace the fuel levelsending unit.10 Next, while observing the ohmmeter,slowly lower the float arm to the EMPTY posi-tion. The ohmmeter should register a smoothchange in resistance value from the FULL toEMPTY position (see illustration). Comparethe measured resistance to the value listed inthis Chapter's Specifications. If the resis-tance is out of tolerance or the ohmmeterexhibited fluctuation during the transitionfrom FULL to EMPTY, replace the fuel levelsending unit.

ReplacementRefer to illustrations 8.13, 8.14, 8.15 and 8.1711 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce-dure (see Section 2).12 Remove the fuel pump module (seeSection 7).

13 Disconnect the fuel level sensor/fuelpump electrical connector from the base ofthe fuel pump module flange (see illustra-tion).14 Use needle-nose pliers to remove theblue locking wedge (see illustration).15 Use a small screwdriver or needle-nosepliers to lift the connector locking finger awayfrom the fuel level sending unit wire terminalsand then withdraw them from the module

8.14 Use needle-nose pliers and carefullyremove the blue locking wedge

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-9

8.15 Use a small screwdriver, or needle-nose pliers, and lift the locking fingersaway from the terminals, then carefully

remove the terminals from the connector

8.20 Terminal guidefor the fuel pump/fuel

level sending unit(where it connects tothe base of the fuel

pump module flange)

electrical connector (see illustration).16 If necessary, use factory tool No.C-4334 or equivalent to remove the fuel levelsending unit terminals from the module con-nector.17 To remove the sending unit, insert ascrewdriver between the module fuel reservoirand the top of the level sensor as shown andpry the sensor down slightly (see illustration).18 While guiding the sensor wires through

8.17 Using a screwdriver, pry the sensordown slightly to disengage the

locking feature

the module fuel reservoir opening, slide thesensor out of the channel.

InstallationRefer to illustrations 8.19 and 8.2019 Place the wires into the guide groove onthe back side of the sending unit, route themthrough the module fuel reservoir and thenslide the sensor up the channel until it snapsinto place (see illustration).

8.19 Place the wires into the groove onthe backside of the sending unit, then

while guiding the wires, slide the sendingunit up the channel until it snaps into

place - tug on it to ensure it'slocked into place

20 Install the wire terminals into the moduleconnector in their proper locations (see illus-tration).21 Install the blue locking wedge into themodule connector.22 Verify the wire terminals are properlyinstalled in the module connector by gentlypulling on the wires.23 Connect the fuel level sensor/fuel pumpelectrical connector to the base of the fuelpump module flange.24 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal.

9 Air cleaner assembly - removaland installation

RemovalRefer to illustrations 9.1a, 9.1b, 9.2, 9.4a and9.4b1 On the 2.0L four-cylinder engine and theV6 engine, remove the air inlet resonator-to-manifold bolts (see illustrations).

LEVEL SENSORGROUND FUEL PUMP SUPPLY

LEVEL SENSORSIGNAL

4

MOUNTING BOLTS

9.1a Air inlet resonator-to-manifold bolts(2.0L four-cylinder engine only)

9.1b Removing the air inlet resonator bolt (V6 engine)

4-10 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

9.2 Four-cylinder engines - air inlet resonator clampat the throttle body

9.4a Loosening the air duct clamp at the air filter housing(V6 engine shown, others similar)

the housing and remove it from the engine vehicle, use pliers to compress the cablecompartment. retainer clips, then push the cable retainer

out of the accelerator pedal arm. Next, slidethe cable out of the slot in the acceleratorpedal arm (see illustration).7 Push the cable through the firewall intothe engine compartment and remove it fromthe vehicle.8 Installation is the reverse of removal.

2 On four-cylinder engines, loosen theclamp and detach the air inlet resonator fromthe throttle body (see illustration).3 On four-cylinder engines, loosen the airduct clamp at the air cleaner housing andremove the air ducting with air inlet resonatorattached.4 On V6 engines, loosen the air ductclamps at the air cleaner housing and throttlebody (see illustrations) then remove the airducting with air inlet resonator attached.

Installation5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Air filter housingRemovalRefer to illustration 9.86 Loosen the air duct clamp and detach itfrom the air cleaner top cover (see illustra-tion 9.4a).7 Remove the air filter top cover and filterelement (see Chapter 1 if necessary).8 Remove the three bolts securing the airfilter lower housing to the inner fender panel(see illustration).9 Detach the air inlet duct at the front of

Installation10 Installation is the reverse of removal.Make sure the lower housing is free of dirtand contamination prior to installation.

10 Accelerator cable - replacement

information

The sequential Multi-Port Fuel Injection( MPFI) system consists of three sub-systems:air intake, engine control and fuel delivery.The MPFI system is controlled by the Power-train Control Module (PCM) which uses theinformation from various sensors to deter-mine the proper air/fuel ratio under all operat-ing conditions.

The fuel injection system, emissions andengine control systems work together to pro-vide maximum performance, fuel economyand the lowest exhaust emissions. For com-plete information on the emissions andengine control system, refer to Chapter 6.

Refer to illustrations 10.2, 10.3, 10.4, 10.5 11 Fuel injection system - generaland 10.61 On four-cylinder engines, remove the aircleaner assembly (see Section 9).2 Rotate the throttle valve cam to the fullthrottle position and disconnect the accelera-tor cable from the slot in the throttle valvecam (see illustration).3 On four-cylinder engines, compress thecable retaining tabs and push the acceleratorcable out of the bracket (see illustration).4 On V6 engines, compress the cableretaining tab and slide the cable out of theside of the bracket (see illustration).5 Disconnect the accelerator cable fromthe bracket on the firewall (see illustration).6 At the accelerator pedal arm inside the

9.4b Loosening the air duct clamp atthe throttle body (V6 engine)

9.8 Remove the three bolts then removethe air filter lower housing from

the fender panel

10.2 Disconnecting the accelerator cablefrom the throttle lever at the throttle body

(V6 engine shown)

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-11

10.3 On four-cylinder engines, after detaching the cable from thethrottle lever, compress the tab on the cable outer housing

and push it through the bracket

10.4 On V6 engines, compress the retaining tab on the cablehousing and slide the cable from the bracket

Air intake systemThe air intake system consists of the air

filter, the air ducts, air inlet resonator, thethrottle body, the idle control system and theintake manifold.

The engine idle speed is controlled bythe PCM via the Idle Air Control (IAC) motor.The IAC motor regulates the flow of airallowed to by-pass the throttle valve in thethrottle body thereby increasing enginespeed. The PCM uses information from vari-ous sensors to determine the correct amountof airflow required to maintain the properengine speed during engine warm-up andwhen a load is placed on the engine, such asengaging the air conditioning compressor,

low speed steering or when an automatictransaxle is placed in gear.

Engine control systemFor information on the engine control

system, refer to Chapter 6.

Fuel delivery systemThe fuel delivery system consists of the

following components: an electric fuel pump,a fuel pressure regulator, an in-line fuel filter,the fuel rail, the fuel injectors, various metaland plastic lines, the Automatic Shutdown(ASD) relay and the fuel pump relay.

The fuel pump and fuel pressure regula-tor are located inside the fuel tank. Fuel is

drawn through the fuel inlet strainer into thepump, pumped past the fuel pressure regula-tor, then through the fuel filter and deliveredto the injectors.

The fuel pressure regulator maintains aconstant fuel pressure to the injectors.Excess fuel is released back into the fuel tankthrough the fuel pressure regulator. This sys-tem is called a "returnless" system.

The fuel rail supplies the regulated fuelto each electronically controlled fuel injector.The injectors are solenoid types consisting ofa solenoid, plunger, needle valve and hous-ing. When the PCM sends a voltage signal tothe fuel injector, the needle valve raises off itsseat and lets metered fuel enter the intake

4

10.5 Accelerator cable bracket at firewall (V6 engine shown,typical routing for all models)

10.6 Use pliers to compress the cable retainer tabs and push thecable retainer from the accelerator pedal arm, then remove the

cable through the slot in the pedal arm and remove thecable from inside the engine compartment

4-12 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

manifold. The injection quantity is determinedby the length of time which current is sup-plied to the injector.

The Automatic Shutdown (ASD) and thefuel pump relays are located in the PowerDistribution Center, which is located in theengine compartment on the left (driver's)side. The ASD relay connects battery voltageto the fuel injectors and the ignition coil whilethe fuel pump relay connects battery voltageonly to the fuel pump. If the PCM sensesthere is NO signal from the camshaft orcrankshaft sensors while the ignition key isRUN or cranking, the PCM will de-energizeboth relays in approximately one second.

12 Fuel injection system - generalcheck

Refer to illustration 12.6Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable,so take extra precautions when you work onany part of the fuel system) see the Warningin Section 2).Note: The following procedure is based onthe assumption that the fuel pump/pressureis acceptable (see Section 3).1 Visually check all electrical connectorsthat are related to the system. Check groundwire connections on the intake manifold andengine for tightness. Loose connectors andpoor grounds can cause many problems thatresemble more serious component malfunc-tions.2 Check to see that the battery is fullycharged, as the PCM and information sen-sors depend on proper battery voltage inorder to operate correctly.3 Check the air filter element - a dirty orpartially blocked filter will severely impedeperformance and economy (see Chapter 1).4 Check the air intake ducts for cracks orloose connections. Also check the conditionof all vacuum hoses connected to the intakemanifold. Make sure they fit tightly on thevacuum ports and are free from cracks orother defects.5 Remove the air intake duct (V6 engine)or air inlet resonator (four-cylinder engines)from the throttle body and inspect for dirt,carbon or other residue build-up around thethrottle valve and Idle Air Control by-passport. If the throttle body is dirty, clean it witha spray-type carburetor cleaner and a tooth-brush or clean rag. Note: If the throttle bodycannot be cleaned properly while installed onthe vehicle, remove it (see Section 13).6 With the engine running, place an auto-motive stethoscope against each injector,one at a time, and listen for a clicking sound,indicating operation (see illustration). If youdon't have a stethoscope, place the tip of ascrewdriver against the injector and listenthrough the handle. Note: On V6 engines, theair inlet resonator must be removed to accessthe left bank of fuel injectors. The right bankof fuel injectors CANNOT be checked usingthis procedure, as they are covered by theupper intake manifold.

12.6 Use a stethoscope to determine ifthe injectors are working properly - they

should make a steady clicking soundthat rises and falls with engine speed

changes (V6 engine shown)

7 Individual component checks can befound in their appropriate Sections.

13 Throttle body - check, removaland installation

Check1 Remove the air cleaner assembly (seeSection 9).2 Verify the accelerator cable, cruise con-trol cable (if equipped) and throttle valveoperate smoothly without binding or sticking.3 Inspect the throttle bore, throttle valve,IAC by-pass port and canister purge vacuumport for carbon deposits. If carbon build-up ispresent, remove the throttle body from thevehicle (see below) and remove the IACmotor (see Section 17). Clean the throttlebody and IAC motor pintle with a spray-typecarburetor cleaner and a toothbrush.4 If the throttle valve does not operatefreely after cleaning, replace the throttlebody.

13.10a Four-cylinder engine IAC,TPS and throttle body bolts

1 Idle Air Control motor2 Throttle Position Sensor3 Throttle body bolts

13.7 Disconnect the canister purgecontrol vacuum hose from the throttlebody (V6 engine shown, others similar)

RemovalRefer to illustrations 13.7, 13.10a, 13.10b and13.11Warning: Wait until the engine is completelycool before beginning this procedure.5 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower.6 Remove the air cleaner assembly (seeSection 9).7 Disconnect the canister purge vacuumhose from the throttle body (see illustration).8 Detach the accelerator cable and cruisecontrol cable (if equipped), from the throttlevalve lever (see Section 10).9 On four-cylinder engines, remove theaccelerator and cruise control cable bracketand position the bracket (with cable) out ofthe way.10 Disconnect the TPS and IAC sensorconnectors from the throttle body, removethe mounting bolts and then withdraw thethrottle body and gasket from the manifold(see illustrations).11 The throttle body 0-ring seal on 2.0Lfour-cylinder engines is reusable (see illus-tration). Remove it from the manifold and

13.10b V6 engine IAC, TPS and throttlebody bolts

1 Throttle Position Sensor2 Idle Air Control motor3 Throttle body bolts

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4®13

inspect it for hardness and cracks. If visualinspection does not reveal any defects, the0-ring seal may be reused.12 On all other models, remove all traces ofgasket material from the throttle body andmanifold.13 If necessary, clean the throttle body asoutlined in Step 3.

Installation14 Install the throttle body with a new gas-ket (2.0L four-cylinder engines may reuse the0-ring seal) onto the intake manifold.15 Tighten the throttle body mounting boltsto the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifi-cations.16 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal. After installation, check tosee that the throttle body operates freely.

14 Fuel pressure regulator and fuelinlet strainer - replacement

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable,so take extra precautions when you work onany part of the fuel system (see the Warningin Section 2).Note: The fuel pump module consists of thefollowing components; fuel pump, fuel pres-sure regulator, fuel inlet strainer and fuel levelsending unit.

Fuel pressure regulatorReplacementRefer to illustrations 14.3a, 14.3b and 14.41 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce-dure (see Section 2).2 Remove the fuel pump module (seeSection 7).3 Spread the tabs on the pressure regula-tor retainer and remove the retainer, thencarefully pry the pressure regulator out of thefuel pump module housing (see illustra-tions). Ensure that both upper and lower0-ring seals come out with the regulator. Dis -

13.11 On 2.0L four-cylinder engines, thethrottle body 0-ring gasket (arrow)

is reusable

card the old 0-ring seals.4 Apply a light coat of clean engine oil tothe new 0-ring seals and install them in thereceptacle in the fuel pump module (seeillustration). Ensure they are properly seated.5 Install the new pressure regulator intothe fuel pump module.6 Install the regulator retainer and fold theretainer tangs over the tabs on the fuel pumpmodule. Make sure the retainer is securelyattached.7 Install the fuel pump module (see Sec-tion 7).

Fuel inlet strainerReplacementRefer to illustration 14.108 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce-dure (see Section 2).9 Remove the fuel pump module (seeSection 7).10 Using a flat-blade screwdriver, pry thetangs on the fuel inlet strainer away from thetabs on the fuel pump reservoir and removethe strainer and 0-ring seal (see illustration).11 Before installing the new 0-ring seal,apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the

14.3a Spread the four tabs and removethe retainer

14.3b Using a screwdriver, carefully prythe fuel pressure regulator out of

the fuel pump module

0-ring seal and install it in onto the fuel pumpreservoir.12 Install the fuel inlet strainer onto the fuelpump reservoir and make sure it is securelylocked in place.13 Install the fuel pump module (see Sec-tion 7).

4

LOWER 0-RING

14.4 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the new 0-ringseals and install them into the fuel pump module

14.10 To remove the inlet strainer, use a screwdriver to pry theretaining tabs away from the fuel pump module

and then detach the strainer

4-14 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

15 Fuel filter - removal andinstallation

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable,so take extra precautions when you work onany part of the fuel system (see the Warningin Section 2).

RemovalRefer to illustration. 15.11 The in-line fuel filter mounts to the frameabove the rear of the fuel tank, near the fillerneck (see illustration).2 Remove the fuel tank filler cap to relievefuel tank pressure.3 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce-dure (see Section 2).4 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).5 Working inside the trunk, fold back thetrunk mat near the base of the left shocktower. Locate the fuel pump wiring harness4-pin connector and disconnect it from thewiring harness (see illustration 2.3). Followthe fuel pump wiring to the grommet at thebase of the rear seat. Tie a length of string tothe fuel pump wiring harness and secure theother end somewhere in the trunk (this willallow you to easily retrieve the wiring har-ness). Push the grommet through the floor-pan and feed the wiring and 4 pin connectorthrough the hole.6 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands.7 Position an approved gasoline containerunder the fuel tank drain plug. If necessary,use a funnel to prevent spilling fuel. Warning:The fuel tank capacity is 16 gallons. Unlessthe fuel tank is almost empty, be prepared tocollect a significant amount of fuel. Do notleave the fuel tank draining operation unat-tended. Be prepared to replace the drain plugin case the fuel tank capacity exceeds thecontainer capacity. Remove the drain plug(see illustration 5.6) and drain the fuel intothe container.8 After the fuel has finished draining, rein-stall the drain plug and tighten it to the torqueli sted in this Chapter's Specifications.9 Support the fuel tank with a floor jack.Place a piece of wood between the jack headand the fuel tank to protect the tank.10 Remove the driver's side fuel tank strap(the long strap).11 Loosen, but do not remove, the passen-ger side fuel tank strap so the fuel tank fillerneck just touches the rear suspension cross-member. Caution: Do not let the weight ofthe fuel tank rest on the filler neck! Support itwith the jack at all times.12 Label and disconnect the quick-connectfuel line fittings (see Section 4 if necessary)connecting the fuel filter to the fuel system.13 Detach the fuel filter from its mountingand remove it from the vehicle.

Installation14 Installation is the reverse of removal.

15.1 The fuel filter (arrow) is tucked upbehind the fuel tank and mounted to

the frame above the rearsuspension crossmember

15 Assemble the fuel line quick-connect fit-tings as described in Section 4. Verify the fit-tings are securely assembled by trying to pullthem apart. Note: The fuel filter larger line fit-ting attaches to the fuel pump module "sup-ply" port and the smaller fitting attaches tothe "return" port.16 Tighten the fuel tank strap bolts to thetorque given in this Chapter's Specifications.17 Pressurize the system and check forleaks.

16 Fuel rail and injectors - check,removal and installation

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable,so take extra precautions when you work onany part of the fuel system (see the Warningin Section 2).

Fuel injector operation checkRefer to illustrations 16.6 and 16.71 Start the engine and allow it warm up tonormal operating temperature.2 Remove the air cleaner assembly (seeSection 9).3 If the vehicle is not equipped with atachometer, connect one to the engine inaccordance with the tool manufacturer'sinstructions.4 Make sure all test equipment is posi-tioned away from the drivebelts and coolingfans, then start the engine. With the engineidling, detach each fuel injector electricalconnector one-at-a-time, and note the rpmchange on the tachometer, then reconnectthe injector. Note: On V6 engines, this testcan only be applied to the left bank of fuelinjectors and only after removing the air inletresonator (see Section 9). If the rpm changeis approximately the same for each cylinder,the injectors are operating correctly. If dis-connecting a particular injector fails to

16.6 Measure the resistance of eachinjector. It should be approximately

12 ohms

change the engine rpm, proceed to the nextStep. If the fuel injectors are operating prop-erly, check the ignition system (see Chap-ter 5), condition of the spark plugs and wires(see Chapter 1) and, if necessary, perform acompression check (see Chapter 2C) todetermine the cause of the dead cylinder.5 On V6 engines, remove the upper intakemanifold (see Chapter 2B).6 Disconnect the injector electrical con-nectors and using an ohmmeter, measure theresistance of each injector (see illustration).Compare the measured resistance to thevalue given this Chapter's Specifications. Ifthe resistance is not within specifications,replace the injector.7 If the resistance is as specified, connecta special injector harness test light (com-monly known as a "noid light" which is avail-able at most auto parts stores) to the injectorelectrical connector (see illustration). If theli ght flashes, the injector is receiving voltage.If there is no voltage, check the ASD relayoperation (see Section 3). If the ASD relay isOK, check the injector wiring circuit for ashort, a break in the wire or a bad connection(see Chapter 12 if necessary).8 With the electrical connector removedfrom the injector, use a fused jumper wire toconnect one terminal of the injector to thepositive remote terminal of the battery nearthe Power Distribution Center (PDC). Attachanother jumper wire to the other terminal onthe fuel injector. Make sure the jumper wiresare properly insulated from each other! Usingthe grounded jumper wire, quickly connectand disconnect it to a solid ground on theengine. Note: Do not subject the fuel injectorto battery voltage any longer than necessary.Each time the injector is energized and de-energized, the injector should make an audi-ble "clicking" sound. If no sound is heard.replace the injector. Repeat the test for eachinjector.9 If the fuel injectors are operating prop-erly, install all removed components in thereverse order of removal.

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-15

16.7 Install a "noid" light (available at most auto part stores) intoeach injector electrical connector and confirm that it illuminates

when the engine is cranking or running

16.21a Disconnecting the fuel supply line quick-connect fitting atthe fuel rail (four-cylinder engine shown)

Fuel injector leak checkWarning: Wear eye protection during thischeck.Note: After identifying that a fuel injector isleaking (see Section 3), use the following pro-cedure to determine which one (or more) ofthe fuel injectors is defective.10 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce-dure (see Section 2).11 Remove the fuel rail and injector assem-bly from the intake manifold as describedbelow, however, do not disconnect the fuelsupply line or the fuel injectors from the fuelrail.12 With the fuel rail resting on the intakemanifold (injectors nozzles exposed), placesome clean shop rags under the fuel injectorsto catch the fuel that will leak out of thedefective injectors ).13 Attach the fuel pump module electricalconnector to the wiring harness and the bat-tery negative cable to the remote battery ter-minal.14 Turn the ignition key to the ON position

(engine OFF) several times to pressurize thefuel system. Warning: Do not crank theengine over. With the system under pressure,inspect each injector for fuel leaking out ofthe nozzle. Label the faulty injectors ).15 Next, relieve the fuel pressure via afaulty fuel injector by using a small Phillipshead screwdriver (or equivalent) to push theinjector pintle off its seat to release the fuelpressure through the injector nozzle. Wrap adry shop rag around the faulty injector tocatch the fuel as it escapes.16 Once the fuel pressure has beenrelieved, detach the fuel supply line quick-connect fitting from the fuel rail (see Section4 if necessary) and replace the faulty fuelinjector(s) (see below).

RemovalRefer to illustrations 16.21a, 16.21b, 16.24a,16.24b, 16.25a, 16.25b, 16.25c, 16.26a,16.26b and 16.26c17 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce -

dure (see Section 2).

18 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).19 Remove the air cleaner assembly (seeSection 9).20 On V6 engines, remove the upper intakemanifold (see Chapter 2B).21 Detach the fuel supply line quick-con-nector fitting (see Section 4 if necessary) fromthe fuel rail (see illustrations).22 Disconnect the wiring harness electricalconnectors from the fuel injectors. Clearlylabel and remove any vacuum hoses or elec-trical wiring that will interfere with the fuel railremoval.23 Clean the injector-to-manifold areausing compressed air (a can of compressed-gas duster like those used to blow out electri-cal components will work just as well) orspray-type carburetor cleaner to remove anydirt or debris from around the injectors.24 Remove the fuel rail mounting bolts (seeillustrations).25 Remove the fuel rail assembly (with thefuel injectors attached) from the engine (see

4

16.21b Disconnecting the fuel supply line quick-connect fitting atthe fuel rail (V6 engine shown)

16.24a Fuel rail mounting bolts (arrows) (four-cylinder engines)

4-16 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

16.24b Fuel rail mounting bolts (arrows) (V6 engine) 16.25a Removing the fuel rail/injectors (four-cylinder engines)

16.25c On V6 engines, these plastic spacers must be installedbetween the fuel rail and the lower intake manifold

16.25b Removing the fuel rail/injectors (V6 engine)

illustrations). Note: On V6 engines, there arespacers located between the fuel rail and thelower intake manifold, if they become dis-lodged, make sure you reinstall them (seeillustration).

26 Remove the retaining clips and with- seal, it's standard practice to replace all 0-draw the injectors from the fuel rail (see illus- ring seals at this time.trations). Remove the 0-ring seals and dis- 27 On V6 engines, clean and inspect thecard them (see illustration). Note: Whether upper-to-lower manifold gasket surfaces (seeyou're replacing an injector or a bad 0-ring Chapter 2B).

16.26a Using a screwdriver or pliers,remove the injector retaining clip securing

the injector to the fuel rail .. .

16.26b ... then withdraw the injectorfrom the fuel rail

16.26c Remove the old 0-ring seals fromthe fuel injector and discard them

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-17

Installation28 Apply a light coating of clean engine oilto the new 0-ring seals and carefully installthem onto the injectors.29 Insert each injector into its correspond-ing bore in the fuel rail. Position the electricalterminals appropriately and secure the fuelinjectors to the fuel rail with the retainingclips.30 On V6 engines, make sure the fuel railspacers are installed (see illustration 16.25c).31 Apply a light coating of clean engine oilto the injector-to-manifold 0-ring seals andinstall the injector/fuel rail assembly onto theintake manifold. Make sure the injectors arefully seated, then tighten the fuel rail mount-ing bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications.32 Connect the fuel supply line quick-con-nect fitting to the fuel rail (see Section 4).33 Attach the fuel pump module electricalconnector to the wiring harness and the bat-tery negative cable to the ground stud on theleft shock tower.34 Turn the ignition key to the ON position(engine OFF) several times to pressurize thefuel system. Inspect the fuel rail and injectorsfor leaks. If leakage is evident, perform thefuel pressure relief procedure (see Section 2)and rectify the problem. Warning: On V6engines, before performing the fuel relief pro-cedure, disconnect the spark plug wires fromthe spark plugs and make sure all looseobjects or rags have been removed frominside or around the lower intake manifoldports.35 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal. On V6 engines, makesure to install a new upper intake manifoldgasket and tighten the upper intake manifoldbolts to the torque listed in the Chapter 2BSpecifications.

17 Idle Air Control (IAC) motor -check and replacement

General descriptionThe engine idle speed is controlled by

the PCM via the Idle Air Control motor. TheIAC motor regulates the flow of air allowed toby-pass the throttle valve in the throttle bodythereby increasing engine speed. The PCMuses information from various sensors todetermine the correct amount of airflowrequired to maintain the proper engine speedduring engine warm-up and when a load isplaced on the engine, such as engaging theair conditioning compressor, low speedsteering or when an automatic transaxle isplaced in gear.

Check1 Run the engine until it reaches normaloperating temperature, then shut off theengine.2 Locate a vacuum fitting on the intakemanifold. Remove the hose from the fitting

and attach a vacuum gauge in its place. Posi-tion the vacuum gauge so you can see it frominside the vehicle.3 If the vehicle is not equipped with atachometer, connect one to the engine perthe manufacturer's instructions and place itso you can see the meter from inside thevehicle.4 Inside the vehicle, start the engine andnote the reading on the vacuum gauge andthe engine speed on the tachometer.5 If the vehicle is equipped with an auto-matic transaxle, apply the brakes and placethe transaxle in DRIVE. If the vehicle isequipped with air conditioning, turn it on. Ifthe vehicle does not have either of the previ-ously mentioned options, turn the steeringwheel all the way to the left and hold it inthere. Observe the reading on the vacuumgauge. It should drop slightly as the IACmotor opens the throttle by-pass airway. Theengine speed should drop momentarily andthen rise to the previously noted rpm. If thevacuum reading remains the same and theengine speed drops, turn off the engine andproceed to the next step.6 Remove the air cleaner assembly (seeSection 9) and inspect the by-pass airway forobstructions or carbon build-up, clean if nec-essary.7 If the by-pass airway appears to beclear, remove the IAC motor from the throttlebody (see below).8 Next, turn the ignition key to the ONposition (engine OFF). Note: Perform thischeck when the engine is completely COLD.9 While observing the IAC pintle, attachthe electrical connector to the IAC motor. TheIAC pintle should retract. If it doesn't, use avoltmeter or a test light to verify voltage ispresent at the RED wire terminal in the femaleconnector. If voltage is present, replace theIAC motor. If no voltage is present, check fora blown fuse. If a fuse was blown, replace itand see if it blows again. If it does, check thecircuit for a short (see Chapter 12).

Removal10 Remove the air cleaner assembly (seeSection 9).11 Remove the throttle body (see Sec-tion 13).12 Remove the IAC motor from the throttlebody (see illustrations 13.10a and 13.10b).Make sure the 0-ring seal is removed withthe IAC motor, if not, retrieve it from the throt-tle body orifice.

Installation13 If the new IAC motor pintle is protrudingmore than 1 inch, it must be retracted beforeit can be installed. If this is the case, turn theignition key to the ON position (engine OFF).Note: Perform this procedure when theengine is completely COLD.14 Attach the electrical connector to theIAC motor, the pintle will retract.15 With the pintle retracted and the 0-ringseal in place, carefully install the IAC motorinto the throttle body and secure it with the

mounting screws. Tighten the screws to thetorque given in this Chapter's Specifications.Note: The ignition key may be turned OFFafter the IAC motor is installed on the throttlebody.16 Install the throttle body (see Section 13).Tighten the throttle body bolts to the torquelisted in this Chapter's Specifications.17 Install the air cleaner assembly (seeSection 9).

418 Exhaust system servicing -

general information

Refer to illustration 18.1Warning: Inspection and repair of exhaustsystem components should be done onlyafter enough time has elapsed after drivingthe vehicle to allow the system componentsto cool completely. Also, when working underthe vehicle, make sure it is securely sup-ported on jackstands.1 The exhaust system consists of theexhaust manifold, the catalytic converter, theresonator, exhaust pipe, muffler and allbrackets, hangers and clamps. The exhaustsystem is attached to the body with mountingbrackets and rubber hangers (see illustra-tion). If any of the parts are improperlyinstalled, excessive noise and vibration willbe transmitted to the body.

Muffler and pipes2 Conduct regular inspections of theexhaust system to keep it safe and quiet.Look for any damaged or bent parts, openseams, holes, loose connections, excessivecorrosion or other defects which could allowexhaust fumes to enter the vehicle. Alsocheck the catalytic converter when youinspect the exhaust system (see following).Deteriorated exhaust system componentsshould not be repaired; they should bereplaced with new parts.

18.1 Inspect the exhaust systemmounting brackets, clamps and

rubber hangers for damageor improper installation

4-18 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

3 Before trying to disassemble anyexhaust components, spray the fastenerswith a penetrating oil to help ease removal. Ifthe exhaust system components areextremely corroded or rusted together, weld-ing equipment will probably be required toremove them. The convenient way to accom-plish this is to have a muffler repair shopremove the corroded sections with a cuttingtorch. If, however, you want to save moneyby doing it yourself (and you don't have awelding outfit with a cutting torch), simply cutoff the old components with a hacksaw. Ifyou have compressed air, special pneumaticcutting chisels can also be used. If youdecide to tackle the job at home, be sure towear safety goggles to protect your eyesfrom metal chips and work gloves to protectyour hands.4 Here are some simple guidelines to fol -

low when repairing the exhaust system:a) Work from the back to the front when

removing exhaust system components.b) Apply penetrating oil to the exhaust sys-

tem component fasteners to make themeasier to remove.

c) Use new gaskets, hangers and clampswhen installing exhaust systems compo-nents.

d) Apply anti-seize compound to thethreads of all exhaust system fastenersat reassembly.

e) Be sure to allow sufficient clearancebetween newly installed parts and allpoints on the underbody to avoid over-heating the floor pan and possibly dam-aging the interior carpet and insulation.Pay particularly close attention to thecatalytic converter and heat shield.

Catalytic converterWarning: The converter gets extremely hotduring operation, and can remain very hot forhours after the engine has been turned off.Make sure it has cooled down before youtouch it.Note: See Chapter 6 for more information onthe catalytic converter.5 Periodically inspect the heat shield forcracks, dents and loose or missing fasteners.6 Remove the heat shield and inspect theconverter for cracks or other damage.7 If the converter must be replaced,detach the exhaust system from the exhaustmanifold. Loosen the rear band clamp at theresonator and separate the converter fromthe exhaust system.8 Installation is the reverse of removal. Besure to use new gaskets and tighten the fas-teners securely.

Chapter 5Engine electrical systemsContents

SectionAlternator - removal and installation .................................................... 11Battery cables - check and replacement...............................................3Battery check, maintenance and charging .......................See Chapter 1Battery - emergency jump starting ........................................................ 2Battery - removal and installation .......................................................... 4Charging system - check..................................................................... 10Charging system - general information and precautions .......................9CHECK ENGINE light ....................................................... See Chapter 6Distributor (V6 engine only) - removal and installation ...........................8Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement .................See Chapter 1

SectionGeneral information, precautions and battery disconnection ................ 1Ignition coil - check and replacement ....................................................7Ignition system - check..........................................................................6Ignition system - general information .................................................... 5Spark plug replacement ....................................................See Chapter 1Spark plug wire check ......................................................See Chapter 1Starter motor - in-vehicle check.......................................................... 13Starter motor - removal and installation ...............................................14Starting system - general information and precautions.......................12

5

Specifications

GeneralBattery voltage........................................................................................Engine firing order

Four-cylinder engines ........................................................................V6 engine...........................................................................................

ignition timing..........................................................................................

Ignition systemignition coil resistance (approximate, at 70 to 80-degrees F)

Four-cylinder enginesPrimary resistance........................................................................Secondary resistance...................................................................

V6 enginePrimary resistance........................................................................Secondary resistance...................................................................

Spark plug wire resistance (approximate)Four-cylinder engines

Wires 1 and 4................................................................................Wires 2 and 3................................................................................

V6 engineMinimum.......................................................................................Maximum......................................................................................

Torque specificationsDistributor hold-down nuts ......................................................................Starter motor mounting bolts..................................................................

12 volts (approximate)

1-3-4-21-2-3-4-5-6Not adjustable

0.51 to 0.61 ohms11,000 to 13,500 ohms

0.6 to 0.8 ohms12,000 to 18,000 ohms

3,500 to 4,900 ohms2,950 to 4,100 ohms

250 ohms per inch (3,000 ohms per foot)560 ohms per inch (6,700 ohms per foot)

108 in-lbs40 ft-lbs

5-2 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

1 General information, precautionsand battery disconnection

General informationThe engine electrical systems include all

ignition, charging and starting components.Because of their engine-related functions,these components are discussed separatelyfrom body electrical devices such as thelights, the instruments, etc. (which areincluded in Chapter 12).

PrecautionsAlways observe the following precautions

when working on the electrical system:(a) Be extremely careful when servicing

engine electrical components. They areeasily damaged if checked, connectedor handled improperly.

(b) Never leave the ignition switched on forlong periods of time when the engine isnot running.

(c) Don't disconnect the battery cableswhile the engine is running.

(d) Maintain correct polarity when connect-ing battery cables from another vehicleduring jump starting - see the "Boosterbattery Gump) starting" section at thefront of this manual.

(e) Always disconnect the negative cablefirst, and reconnect it last, or the batterymay be shorted by the tool being usedto loosen the cable clamps.It's also a good idea to review the

safety-related information regarding theengine electrical systems located in the"Safety first!" section at the front of this man-ual, before beginning any operation includedin this Chapter.

Battery disconnectionRefer to illustrations 1.4a and 1.4b

The battery on these vehicles is locatedbehind the left fender, in front of the left frontwheel. Since the battery terminals cannot beeasily accessed, the manufacturer has pro-vided a remote ground terminal on the leftshock tower and also a remote positive ter-minal for jump starting purposes. To discon-nect the battery for service proceduresrequiring power to be cut from the vehicle,remove the nut and detach the negativecable from the ground stud on the struttower, then press the hole in the side of thecable insulator over the stud (see illustra-tions). This will isolate the cable end and pre-vent it from accidentally coming into contactwith ground.

Several systems on the vehicle requirebattery power to be available at all times,either to ensure their continued operation(such as the clock) or to maintain control unitmemories (such as that in the engine man-agement system's Powertrain Control Mod-ule [PCM]) which would be wiped out if thebattery were to be disconnected. Therefore,whenever the battery is to be disconnected,

1.4a To disconnect battery power fromthe vehicle, remove the nut from the

ground stud on the left struttower (arrow) .. .

first note the following to ensure that thereare no unforeseen consequences of thisaction:(a) First, on any vehicle with central locking,

it is a wise precaution to remove the keyfrom the ignition and to keep it with you,so that it does not get locked in if thecentral locking should engage acciden-tally when the battery is reconnected!

(b) The engine management system's PCMwill lose the information stored in itsmemory when the battery is discon-nected. This includes idling and operat-ing values, and any fault codes detected(see Chapter 6). Whenever the battery isdisconnected, the information relating toidle speed control and other operatingvalues will have to be re-programmedinto the unit's memory. The PCM doesthis by itself, but until then, there may besurging, hesitation, erratic idle and agenerally inferior level of performance.To allow the PCM to relearn these val-ues, start the engine and run it as closeto idle speed as possible until it reachesits normal operating temperature, thenrun it for approximately two minutes at1200 rpm. Next, drive the vehicle as faras necessary - approximately 5 miles ofvaried driving conditions is usually suffi-cient - to complete the relearning pro-cess.Devices known as "memory-savers" can

be used to avoid some of the above prob-lems. Precise details vary according to thedevice used. Typically, it is plugged into thecigarette lighter, and is connected by its ownwires to a spare battery; the vehicle's ownbattery is then disconnected from the electri-cal system, leaving the "memory-saver" topass sufficient current to maintain audio unitsecurity codes and PCM memory values, andalso to run permanently live circuits such asthe clock, all the while isolating the battery inthe event of a short-circuit occurring while

1.4b . . . then detach the cable and pushthe hole in the cable insulator over

the stud

work is carried out.Warning: Some of these devices allow a con-siderable amount of current to pass, whichcan mean that many of the vehicle's systemsare still operational when the main battery isdisconnected. If a "memory-saver" is used,ensure that the circuit concerned is actually"dead" before carrying out any work on it!

2 Battery - emergency jumpstarting

Refer to the Booster battery Gump) start-ing procedure at the front of this manual.

3 Battery cables - check andreplacement

1 Periodically inspect the entire length ofeach battery cable for damage, cracked orburned insulation and corrosion. Poor batterycable connections can cause starting prob-lems and decreased engine performance.2 Check the cable-to-terminal connec-tions at the ends of the cables for cracks,loose wire strands and corrosion. The pres-ence of white, fluffy deposits under the insu-lation at the cable terminal connection at thebattery is a sign that the cable is corrodedand should be replaced. Check the terminalsfor distortion, missing mounting bolts andcorrosion.3 When removing the cables, always dis-connect the negative cable first and hook itup last or the battery may be shorted by thetool used to loosen the cables. Even if onlythe positive cable is being replaced, be sureto disconnect the negative cable from theground terminal on the left shock tower first!4 Disconnect the old cables from the bat-tery (see Section 4), then trace each of themto their remote terminals and detach them.Note the routing of each cable to ensure cor-rect installation.5 Check the cables that connect the

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 5-3

4.3 Removing the battery cover/splashshield from the left front wheel well

4.4 Always disconnect the negativebattery cable first and attach it last!

4.5a Removing the battery strap andhold-down bracket bolt

54.5b Removing the battery strap upper nut 4.7 Position the cables out of the way and slide the battery out of

the fenderwell - be careful, it's heavy!

starter solenoid and ground terminals to theremote terminals. If they require replacement,note the routing of each cable to ensure cor-rect installation and detach them.6 If you are replacing a cable, take it alongwith you when purchasing a new one. It isvitally important that you replace it with anidentical part. Cables have characteristicsthat make them easy to identify: positivecables are usually red and larger in cross-section; ground cables are usually black andsmaller in cross-section.7 Clean all connections with a wire brushto remove rust, oxidation and corrosion.Apply a light coat of petroleum jelly or greaseto all fastener threads to prevent future corro-sion.8 Attach the cable to it's proper connec-tion and tighten the mounting fastenersecurely. Apply a light coat of petroleum jellyor grease to the connection to seal it and helpprevent future corrosion.9 Before connecting a new cable to thebattery, make sure that it reaches the batterywithout having to be stretched.10 Connect the positive cable first, fol-lowed by the negative cable.

4 Battery - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 4.3, 4.4, 4.5a, 4.5b and4.7Warning: Certain precautions must be fol-lowed when checking and servicing the bat-tery. Hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive,is produced by the battery. Keep lightedtobacco, open flames, bare light bulbs orother possible sources of ignition away fromthe battery. Furthermore, the electrolyteinside the battery is sulfuric acid which ishighly corrosive and can burn your skin andcause severe injury to your eyes. Always weareye protection! It will also destroy clothingand ruin painted surfaces.Note: The battery on these vehicles is locatedinside the fenderwell of the left front fenderand can be removed without removing thewheel. However, removing the wheel makesthe job much easier.1 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Section 1).2 Loosen the left front wheel lug nuts,raise the vehicle and support it securely on

jackstands. Remove the wheel.3 Remove the battery cover/splash shieldfrom the wheel well by turning the four plasticfasteners 1/4-turn counterclockwise (seeillustration).4 Using a box-end wrench, disconnectthe negative cable from the battery first, thenthe positive cable (see illustration).5 Remove the bolt and nut securing thebattery strap and hold-down bracket, thenremove the them (see illustrations).6 Vehicles manufactured with the coldweather package option (Alaska, Canada andnorthern USA) are equipped with a batteryblanket heater. If equipped, disconnect theblanket heater electrical connector.7 Remove the battery from the vehicle(see illustration). Be careful - it's heavy.Note: Battery handling tools are available atmost auto parts stores for a reasonable price.They make it easier to remove and carry thebattery.8 If equipped, remove the battery blanketheater from around the battery.9 While the battery is removed, inspectthe tray, strap, hold-down bracket andrelated fasteners for corrosion or damage.10 If corrosion is evident on the battery

5-4 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

6.4b Distributorterminal identification

1 Camshaft positionsensor terminals

2 Coil primaryterminals

3 Coil secondaryterminal (hi-tensiontower)

6.4a Distributor cap and rotor - V6 engine only

1 Coil terminal 3 Rotor2 Rotor button

6.6 Using a calibrated ignition tester to visually verify spark isreaching the spark plugs - If the engine starts during this check,do not let it run more than 1 minute or damage to the catalytic

converter may occur

6.9 On four-cylinder engines, connect a test light between thecoil electrical connector center terminal and one of the outer

terminals. Crank the engine. The test light should blink on-and-off

tray, unscrew the mounting bolts and removeit. Use baking soda/water solution to cleancorroded parts to prevent further oxidation.Repaint parts as necessary using rust resis-tant paint.11 Clean and service the battery andcables (see Chapter 1).12 If you are replacing the battery, makesure you purchase one that is identical toyours, with the same dimensions, amperagerating, cold cranking amps rating, etc. Makesure it is fully charged prior to installation inthe vehicle.13 Installation is the reverse of removal.Make sure you install the negative cable last.14 After connecting the cables to the bat-tery, apply a light coating of petroleum jelly orgrease to the connections to help preventcorrosion.15 Tighten the wheel lug nuts to the torquegiven in the Chapter 1 Specifications.

5 Ignition system - generalinformation

All models are equipped with an elec-tronic ignition system. The ignition systemconsists of the ignition switch, the battery,the coil, the primary (low voltage) and sec-ondary (high voltage) wiring circuits, the igni-

tion wires and spark plugs, the camshaftposition sensor, the crankshaft position sen-sor and the Powertrain Control Module(PCM). The PCM controls the ignition timingand spark advance characteristics for theengine. The ignition timing is not adjustable.

The crankshaft sensor and camshaftsensor generate voltage pulses that are sentto the PCM. The PCM then determines thecrankshaft position, injector sequence andignition timing. The PCM supplies batteryvoltage to the ignition coil through the Auto-matic Shutdown Relay (ASD). The PCM alsocontrols the ground circuit for the coil.

If the PCM does not receive a signalfrom the crankshaft or camshaft position sen-sors, the PCM signals the ASD relay and fuelpump relay to shut down the ignition and fueldelivery systems respectively. Refer to Chap-ter 6 for testing and replacement proceduresfor the crankshaft and camshaft sensors.

On four-cylinder engines, the secondaryignition system is controlled by energizing thecoil drivers in the proper firing order. On V6engines, a conventional type distributor witha rotor is used to send the ignition voltage tothe proper cylinder in the firing order. On V6engines, the ignition coil and camshaft posi-tion sensor are part of the distributor, whichis located on the rear of the engine on theright side (rear) cylinder head and driven bythe camshaft (see Section 8).

Ignition system - check

Refer to illustrations 6.4a, 6.4b, 6.6 and 6.9Warning: Because of the very high voltagegenerated by the ignition system (approxi-mately 40,000 volts), extreme care should betaken whenever an operation is performedinvolving ignition components. This not onlyincludes the coil and spark plug wires, butrelated items connected to the system aswell, such as the electrical connectors,tachometer and any test equipment.1 With the ignition switch turned to the"ON" position, a glowing instrument panel"Battery" light or "Oil Pressure" light is abasic check for battery voltage supply to theignition system and PCM.2 First, check all ignition wiring connec-tions for tightness, cuts, corrosion or anyother signs of a bad connection.3 Check the condition of the spark plugwires (see Chapter 1). Using an ohmmeter.measure the resistance of each spark plugwire and compare the measured value to theresistance value listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications. A bad spark plug wire or poorconnection at the spark plug or coil (four-cylinder engines) or distributor cap (V6engine) could also result in a misfire.4 On V6 engines, remove the distributo r

cap and rotor (see Steps 7 thru 10 in Sec-

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 5-5

7.4 Test each coil's primary resistance by connecting one probeof the ohmmeter to the center terminal and the other probe to

each end terminal. The primary resistance of each coil should bewithin specifications

tion 7). Inspect the cap and rotor for mois-ture, cracks, erosion, carbon tracks, wornrotor button or other damage (see illustra-tion). Remove one spark plug wire at a timefrom the cap (so they don't get mixed up) andcheck the terminals inside the cap for corro-sion, which will appear as a white crustypowder (slight corrosion can be removedwith a screwdriver or round wire brush). Onthe distributor cap, use an ohmmeter to mea-sure the resistance between the rotor buttonand the coil terminal. The resistance shouldbe approximately 5,000 ohms. On the distrib-utor, inspect the coil hi-tension tower forcracks, carbon tracks or corrosion (see illus-tration). If the coil is found to be defective,the entire distributor must be replaced. If thecap or rotor is defective and the ignition com-ponents (including spark plugs) have been inservice for more than 60,000 miles, the man-ufacturer recommends replacing all ignitioncomponents at the same time.5 If the engine turns over but won't start,disconnect the number 1 spark plug wire(four-cylinder engines) or the number 2 sparkplug wire (V6 engines) (see Chapter 1 if nec-essary) and install a calibrated ignition tester(available at most auto parts stores). Makesure the tester is designed for Chrysler elec-tronic ignition systems if a universal tester isnot available.6 Connect the clip of the tester to a bolt ormetal bracket located on the engine (see illus-tration). Note: If an ignition tester is not avail-able, a good spark plug with the gap set to themaximum tolerance can also be used. Groundthe threaded portion of the spark plug to theengine. Crank the engine while observing theignition tester - if bright blue, well definedsparks occur, sufficient voltage is reaching thespark plug to fire it. Caution: If the enginestarts, do not run the engine for longer thanone minute during this test - the raw fuel Checkescaping from the cylinder being tested maycause damage to the catalytic converter.7 On four-cylinder engines, perform thischeck at the number 2 spark plug locationalso. This will check the other ignition coil

7.5 Checking the secondary resistance of coil "1" - repeat thetest for coil "2". The secondary resistance of each coil should be

within specifications

inside the coil pack. Note: It is not necessaryto perform this check at another location onV6 engines because that system uses a singlecoil.8 If spark is present, the coil is firing, how-ever, the spark plugs themselves may befouled or damaged, so remove and checkthem (see Chapter 1) or install new ones.9 If no spark or intermittent sparks occur,disconnect the coil electrical connector (seeillustration) and connect a test light to thecenter terminal of the coil electrical connectorand one of the outer terminals on four-cylin-der engines or across both harness terminalson V6 engines (see illustration 6.4b).10 With the test light placed where you cansee it from the driver's seat, crank the engineand watch the test light. It should flash

on-and-off while the engine is cranking. If thetest light does not blink, check the wiring har-ness for damage or a short. If the wiring isOK, check the operation of the AutomaticShutdown (ASD) relay (see Chapter 4). If nec-essary, check the operation of the camshaftand crankshaft position sensors (see Chapter6). If the ASD relay and cam/crank sensorscheck out OK, have the PCM diagnosed by adealer service department or other qualifiedrepair shop.11 If voltage is present (light blinks), checkthe ignition coil (see Section 7) and replace itif necessary.12 If these checks do not identify the prob-lem, further diagnosis should be performedby a dealer service department or other qual-ified repair shop.

7 Ignition coil - check andreplacement

Four-cylinder enginesRefer to illustrations 7.4 and 7.51 Located inside the coil pack are twoindividual ignition coils. Coil "1" supplies volt -

age for cylinders 1 and 4, while coil "2" sup-plies voltage for cylinders 2 and 3.2 Clearly label the spark plug wires anddetach them from the coil pack.3 Disconnect the primary wiring electricalconnector from the coil pack.4 Measure the each coil primary resis-tance; connect an ohmmeter between thecenter terminal (B+) and one of the outer ter-minals and note the resistance (see illustra-tion). Repeat the check with the probe con-nected to the other outer terminal. Comparethe measured resistances with the coil pri-mary resistance value listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications. Replace the coil if the primaryresistance is out of tolerance.5 Next, measure the secondary resistanceof each coil; connect an ohmmeter betweenspark plug wire terminals 1 and 4 and notethe resistance (see illustration). Repeat thecheck on terminals 2 and 3. Compare themeasured resistances with the secondaryresistance value listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications. Replace the coil if the sec-ondary resistance is out of tolerance.6 Install the spark plug wires in theirproper locations and connect the primarywiring electrical connector.

V6 engine7 Remove the air cleaner assembly (seeChapter 4).8 Remove the EGR tube (see Chapter 6).9 Label each spark plug wire to it's loca-tion in the distributor cap and then discon-nect them.10 Loosen the 2 screws and remove thedistributor cap.11 Disconnect the primary wiring electricalconnector (two-pin) from the distributor (seeillustration 6.4b).12 Measure the coil primary resistance;connect an ohmmeter across the terminals ofthe two-pin connector on the distributor andnote the resistance. Compare the measuredresistance with the coil primary resistancevalue listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Ifthe coil primary resistance is out of tolerance,

5

5-6 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

7.17 After disconnecting the wiring harness electrical connector,remove the coil pack mounting nuts and lift the coil from the

valve cover

SPARKPLUG

CABLES

8.5 DistributorDISTRIBUTOR electrical connections

CONNECTORS

the entire distributor must be replaced - thecoil is not serviceable.13 Measure the coil secondary resistance;using an ohmmeter, measure the resistancebetween the coil hi-tension tower terminaland each terminal of the two-pin connector.Compare the measured resistances with thesecondary resistance value listed in thisChapter's Specifications. If the coil sec-ondary resistance is out of tolerance, theentire distributor must be replaced - the coilis not serviceable.14 Install the distributor cap and relatedcomponents in the reverse order of removal.

ReplacementFour-cylinder enginesRefer to illustration 7.1715 Label the spark plug wires and detachthem from the coil pack.16 Disconnect the primary wiring electricalconnector from the coil pack.17 Remove the coil pack mounting nuts(see illustration) and lift the coil pack fromthe mounting bracket on the valve cover.18 Installation is the reverse of removal.

V6 engine19 The ignition coil on V6 engines is notserviceable. If the coil is defective, replacethe distributor assembly (see Section 8).

8 Distributor (V6 engine only) -removal and installation

RemovalRefer to illustrations 8.5 and 8.81 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower.2 Remove the air cleaner assembly (seeChapter 4).3 Remove the EGR tube (see Chapter 6).4 Clean the area around and then removethe transaxle fluid dipstick tube. To preventforeign debris from entering the transaxle,cover the dipstick hole in the transaxle with

duct tape or equivalent.5 Disconnect the electrical connectorsfrom the distributor (see illustration).6 Label each spark plug wire to it's loca-tion in the distributor cap and then discon-nect them.7 Remove the spark plug wire routingbracket from the distributor.8 Loosen the two screws and remove thedistributor cap (see illustration).9 Using a felt tip pen and/or a piece oftape, match-mark the rotor tip to the distribu-tor body.10 Remove the twosecuring the distributorthe cylinder head.

Installation11 Inspect the distributor 0-ring seal forhardness, cracks, swelling or other damageand replace it if necessary.12 Install the rotor onto the distributorshaft.13 Apply a light coat of clean engine oil tothe distributor 0-ring seal and carefully insertthe distributor into the cylinder head with therotor aligned with the previously appliedmatch-mark. Make sure the distributor is fullyseated in the cylinder head and secure withthe two nuts and washers. Tighten the dis-tributor hold-down nuts to the torque given inthis Chapter's Specifications.14 If engine was rotated while the distribu-tor was removed, proceed as follows:

a) Rotate the engine to Top Dead Centerfor number 1 piston (see Chapter 2C).

b) Using an ohmmeter, perform a continu-ity test on the distributor cap to identifythe location of the number 1 terminalinside the cap and mark it's location onthe outside of the cap.

c) Place the cap onto the distributor andplace another mark on the distributorbody in line with the number 1 terminalmark on the cap. Remove the cap.

d) Perform Steps 11 thru 13. After installa-

tion, use the distributor cap to make'sure the rotor is pointed at the number 1terminal.

8.8 Distributor cap mounting screws

15 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal with the following addi-tions:

a) Check and replace if necessary, thetransaxle dipstick tube 0-ring seal.Apply a light coat of clean transaxle fluidto the seal before installation.

b) Use new gaskets on the EGR tube andtighten the bolts to the torque listed inthe Specification Section of Chapter 6.

9 Charging system - generalinformation and precautions

The charging system includes the alter-nator, a charge indicator light, the battery, thePowertrain Control Module (PCM), the ASDrelay, a fusible link and the wiring between allthe components. The charging system sup-plies electrical power to maintain the batteryat its full charge capacity. The alternator isdriven by a drivebelt on the front of theengine.

The Electronic Voltage Regulator (EVR)within the PCM varies the battery charge rate

nuts and washersand withdraw it from

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 5-7

in accordance with driving conditions.Depending on electric load, vehicle speed,engine coolant temperature, battery tempera-ture sensor, accessories (air conditioningsystem, radio, cruise control etc.) and theintake air temperature, the PCM will adjustthe amount of voltage generated, creatingless load on the engine.

The purpose of the voltage regulator isto limit the alternator's voltage to a presetvalue. This prevents power surges, circuitoverloads, etc., during peak voltage output.Since the EVR is contained within the PCM,the PCM must be replaced in the event ofEVR failure.

Four-cylinder models are equipped witha Nippondenso type alternator and V6 mod-els use a Mitsubishi (MELCO) alternator. Bothtypes have a rating of 90 amperes. The alter-nator is not serviceable and therefore mustbe replaced as a unit in the event of failure.

The charging system doesn't ordinarilyrequire periodic maintenance. However, thedrivebelt, battery, wires and connectionsshould be inspected at the intervals outlinedin Chapter 1.

The dashboard warning light should illu-minate when the ignition key is turned to ON,but it should go off immediately after theengine is started. If it remains on, there is amalfunction in the charging system whichmust be diagnosed (see Section 10).

Be very careful when making electricalcircuit connections to a vehicle equippedwith an alternator and note the following:

a) When reconnecting wires to the alterna-tor from the battery, be sure to note thepolarity.

b) Never start the engine with a batterycharger connected.

c) Before using arc welding equipment torepair any part of the vehicle, disconnectthe wiring from the alternator and thecables from the battery.

d) Always disconnect both battery cablesbefore using a battery charger.

e) The alternator is turned by an enginedrivebelt which could cause seriousinjury if your hands, hair or clothesbecome entangled in it with the enginerunning.

f) Because the alternator is connecteddirectly to the battery, it could arc orcause a fire if overloaded or shorted out.

g) Wrap a plastic bag over the alternatorand secure it with rubber bands beforesteam cleaning the engine.

10 Charging system - check

Refer to illustrations 10.1 and 10.2Note: These vehicles are equipped with anOn Board Diagnostic (OBD-ll) system that isuseful for detecting charging system prob-lems. Refer to Chapter 6 for the trouble codeextracting procedures.1 If a malfunction occurs in the chargingcircuit (see illustration), do not immediatelyassume that the alternator is causing theproblem. First check the following items:

a) The battery cables where they connectto the battery and at the remote termi-nals. Make sure the connections areclean and tight (see Section 3).

b) Check the alternator wiring connections;make sure they are clean and tight.

c) Check the battery voltage. If its less than12 volts, charge the battery (see Chap-ter 1).

d) Check the drivebelt condition and ten-sion (see Chapter 1).

e) Check the alternator mounting bolts fortightness.

f) Run the engine and check the alternatorfor abnormal noise.

2 Check the battery temperature sensor.Remove the front bumper (see Chapter 11).Locate the battery temperature sensor on thedriver's side of the front bumper bar (seeillustration). Disconnect the electrical con-nector from the sensor. Using an ohmmeter,measure the resistance between the sensorelectrical terminals. With the air temperatureat approximately 75 to 80-degrees F, the

10.2 Battery temperature sensor (arrow) -front bumper removed

5

5-8 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

11.8a Alternator mounting details- 2.0L four-cylinder engine

11.8b Alternatormounting details - 2.4L

four-cylinder engine11.6 Alternator electrical connections -

four-cylinder engines

resistance should be 9,000 to 11,000 ohms. Ifthe resistance is out of tolerance, replace thesensor.3 Using a voltmeter, check the batteryvoltage with the engine off. It should beapproximately 12 volts.4 Start the engine and check the batteryvoltage again. If the system is operatingproperly, the voltage should increase to avalue between 13 to 15 volts.5 If the indicated voltage reading is less ormore than the specified charging voltage,have the PCM diagnosed at a dealer servicedepartment or other qualified repair shop.The voltage regulator on these models iscontained within the PCM and it cannot beremoved or serviced in any way.6 Due to the special equipment necessaryto test the PCM and alternator, it is recom-mended that if a fault is suspected, the vehi-cle be taken to a dealer service departmentor other qualified repair shop with the properequipment. Because of this, the homemechanic should limit maintenance to check-ing connections and the inspection andreplacement of the alternator itself. As a gen-eral rule, when the battery is in good condi-tion and all electrical connections are cleanand tight, if the charging voltage is low, thealternator is faulty. If the charging voltage ishigh, the voltage regulator is the problem.

11 Alternator - removal andinstallation

General information1 If you are replacing the alternator, takethe old one with you when purchasing areplacement unit. Make sure the new/rebuiltunit looks identical to the old alternator. Lookat the terminals - they should be the same innumber, size and location as the terminals onthe old alternator. Finally, look at the identifi-cation numbers - they will be stamped intothe housing or printed on a tag attached tothe housing. Make sure the numbers are the

same on both the old and new alternators.2 Many new/rebuilt alternators do nothave a pulley installed, so you may have toswitch the pulley from the old unit to thenew/rebuilt one. When buying an alternator,find out the shop's policy regarding pulleys;some shops will perform this service free ofcharge.

Four-cylinder enginesRemovalRefer to illustrations 11.6, 11.8a and 11.8b3 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Section 1).4 On 1995 to 1997 models with 2.4Lengines equipped with anti-lock brakes, dis-connect the electrical connector and removethe two lower plate mounting bolts securingthe Controller Anti-lock Brakes (CAB) andwithdraw it from the vehicle (see Chapter 9).5 On 2.4L engines, remove the enginecoolant reservoir (see Chapter 3).6 Disconnect the electrical connector andB+ cable from the alternator (see illustra-tion).7 Loosen the drivebelt adjustment boltsand nut, then detach the alternator drivebelt(see Chapter 1).8 Remove the pivot bolt and spacer (seeillustrations).9 While supporting the alternator, removethe T-bolt, adjustment nut and bolt, then sep-arate the alternator from the bracket. Maneu-ver it toward the passenger side of the vehi-cle and remove it from the engine compart-ment. Note: On 2.4L engines equipped withair conditioning, slide the alternator under theair conditioning lines.

Installation10 Installation is the reverse of removal.11 After the alternator is installed, adjustthe drivebelt tension (see Chapter 1).12 Check the charging voltage to verifyproper operation of the alternator (see Sec-tion 10).

V6 engineRemovalRefer to illustrations 11.14, 11.16 and 11.1813 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Section 1).14 Disconnect the electrical connector andB+ cable from the alternator (see illustra-tion).

11.14 Alternator electrical connections(arrows) - V6 engine

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 5-9

11.18 Alternator upper bracket mounting bolts (arrows) -V6 engine

11.16 Alternator mounting bolts (arrows) - V6 engine

12.2 Typical starter system diagram

515 Remove the drivebelt from the alternator(see Chapter 1).16 Loosen the upper and lower mountingbolts (see illustration).17 Remove the lower mounting bolt andspacer - be careful not to drop the spacer ornut.18 While supporting the alternator, removethe two bolts securing the alternator upperbracket to the cylinder head (see illustration)and then remove the bracket and the alterna-tor.19 Remove the upper mounting bolt andseparate the bracket from the alternator.

Installation20 Installation is the reverse of removal.21 After the alternator is installed, adjustthe drivebelt tension (see Chapter 1).22 Check the charging voltage to verifyproper operation of the alternator (see Sec-tion 10).

12 Starting system - generalinformation and precautions

Refer to illustration 12.21 The starter motor assemblies used on2.0L four-cylinder and V6 engines use a plan-etary gear reduction system. The starter

motor assembly on 2.4L four-cylinderengines uses an offset gear reduction sys-tem. The starter motor/solenoid for all modelsis not serviceable and is sold strictly as acomplete assembly.2 The starting system consists of the bat-tery, the starter motor, the starter solenoid,the starter relay, clutch start switch (manualtransaxles), PARK/NEUTRAL switch (auto-matic transaxles), ignition switch and thewires that connect the components (seeillustration). The solenoid is located on thestarter motor which is located on the side ofthe engine mounted to the transaxle bell-housing towards the front of the vehicle.3 When the ignition key is turned to theStart position, the starter solenoid is actuatedthrough the starter control circuit whichincludes a starter relay located in the PowerDistribution Center. The starter solenoid thenconnects the battery to the starter. The bat-tery supplies the electrical energy to thestarter motor, which does the actual work ofcranking the engine.4 Always observe the following precau-tions when working on the starting system:

a) Excessive cranking of the starter motorcan overheat it and cause serious dam-age. Never operate the starter motor formore than 15 seconds at a time withoutpausing for at least two minutes to allowit to cool.

b) The starter is connected directly to thebattery and could arc or cause a fire ifmishandled, overloaded or shorted out.

c) Always detach the negative batterycable from the ground stud on the leftshock tower before working on the start-ing system.

13 Starter motor - in-vehicle check

Refer to illustration 13.71 Make sure the battery is fully chargedand all cable/connections - at the battery,starter solenoid terminals and remote termi-nals - are clean and secure.2 If the starter motor does not function atall when the switch is operated, make surethe shift lever is in Neutral or Park (automatictransaxles) and check the operation of thePARK/NEUTRAL switch (see Chapter 7B). Onvehicles equipped with manual transaxles,check the operation of the clutch start switch(see Chapter 8).3 If the starter motor spins but the engineis not cranking, the overrunning clutch in thestarter motor is slipping and the starter motormust be replaced. Also, the ring gear on thedriveplate may be worn. Inspect it afterremoving the starter.4 If, when the switch is actuated, thestarter motor does not operate at all but the

5-10 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

13.7 The starter relay (arrow) is located inthe Power Distribution Center inside the

engine compartment

solenoid clicks, the problem lies with eitherthe battery, the main solenoid contacts or thestarter motor itself (or possibly the enginemay be seized).5 If the solenoid plunger cannot be heardwhen the switch is actuated, the battery maybe faulty, the fusible link may be burned (thecircuit is open), the starter relay may be faultyor the solenoid itself is defective.6 To check the solenoid, connect aremote starter switch between the positiveremote battery terminal and the ignitionswitch wire terminal (the small terminal) onthe solenoid. If the starter motor operateswhen the remote switch is activated, thesolenoid is OK and the problem is elsewherein the circuit.7 Locate the starter relay in the PowerDistribution Center (PDC) (see illustration).Remove the relay and perform the identicaltests as for the Automatic Shutdown Relay(ASD) and the fuel pump relay in Chapter 4,Section 3. Replace the relay if it does notfunction as described.8 If the starter motor still does not oper-ate, remove the starter/solenoid assembly forreplacement as a complete unit (see Sec-tion 14).9 If the starter motor cranks the engine atan abnormally slow speed, first make surethat the battery is fully charged and that allelectrical connections are clean and tight. Ifthe engine is partially seized, or has the

14.4 Starter motor electrical connectionsand mounting details - four-cylinder engine

wrong viscosity oil in it, it will crank slowly.10 If the engine starts, run the engine untilnormal operating temperature is achieved,then turn off the engine. Remove the fuelpump relay to keep the engine from starting(see Chapter 4 if necessary).11 Connect a voltmeter positive lead to thepositive remote battery terminal and the neg-ative lead to the negative remote battery ter-minal.12 Crank the engine and take the voltmeterreading as soon as a steady figure is indi-cated. Do not allow the starter motor to turnfor more than 15 seconds at a time. A readingof 9 volts or more, with the starter motor turn-ing at normal cranking speed, is normal. If thereading is 9 volts or more but the crankingspeed is slow, the motor, solenoid contactsor circuit connections are faulty. If the read-ing is less than 9 volts and the crankingspeed is slow, the starter motor is probablybad.

14 Starter motor - removal andinstallation

Four-cylinder enginesRemovalRefer to illustration 14.41 Detach the negative battery cable from

the ground stud on the left shock tower (seeSection 1).2 Remove the air cleaner assembly (seeChapter 4).3 On vehicles equipped with automatictransaxles, remove the Transmission ControlModule (TCM) from its mounting and positionit out of the way (see Chapter 7B). Note: DONOT disconnect the electrical connector fromTCM.4 Remove the starter motor upper mount-ing bolt (see illustration).5 Raise the front of the vehicle and sup-port it securely on jackstands.6 Clearly label, then disconnect the wiresfrom the terminals on the starter motorsolenoid.7 While supporting the starter motor,remove the lower mounting bolt and with-draw the starter motor from the vehicle.

Installation8 Installation is the reverse of removal.Tighten the starter motor mounting bolts tothe torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica-tions.

V6 engineRemovalRefer to illustrations 14.12 and 14.139 Detach the negative battery cable fromthe ground stud on the left shock tower (seeSection 1).10 Raise the front of the vehicle and sup-port it securely on jackstands.11 Remove the oil filter (see Chapter 1 ifnecessary).12 Disconnect the wires from the terminalson the starter motor solenoid (see illustra-tion).13 While supporting the starter motor,remove the three bolts securing it to thetransaxle bellhousing (see illustration) andremove the starter motor from the vehicle.

Installation14 Installation is the reverse of removal.Tighten the starter motor mounting bolts tothe torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica-tions.

14.13 Starter motor mounting bolts(arrows) as viewed from under the vehicle

- V6 engine

PUSH ONSOLENOID

CONNECTOR

14.12 Starter motor electrical connectionsand mounting details - V6 engine

Chapter 6Emissions and engine control systemsContents

SectionCatalytic converter system - description,

check and replacement....................................................................8CHECK ENGINE light .............................................................................2Evaporative emission control system (EVAP) - description,

check and component replacement.................................................7Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system - description,

check and component replacement.................................................6General information................................................................................1Idle Air Control (IAC) motor - check and replacement .... See Chapter 4

SectionInformation sensors and output actuators - description,

check and replacement .................................................................... 3On board diagnosis (OBD-II) system - description and

trouble code access......................................................................... 2Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system - check

and replacement ..........................................................See Chapter 1Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system - general

description........................................................................................5Powertrain Control Module (PCM) - check and replacement ................4

6

Specifications

Torque specificationsCamshaft sensor (four-cylinder engines)

Sensor bolts.......................................................................................Target magnet bolt .............................................................................

Crankshaft sensor retaining bolt .............................................................Engine Coolant Temperature sensor

2.0L four-cylinder engine ...................................................................2.4L four-cylinder and V6 engines.....................................................

EGR tube bolts........................................................................................EGR valve-to-cylinder head bolts ............................................................Intake Air Temperature sensor

2.0L four-cylinder engine (1995 only) .................................................2.4L four-cylinder and V6 engines .....................................................

Intake Air Temperature/Manifold Absolute Pressuresensor (four-cylinder engines)

Plastic intake manifold .......................................................................Aluminum intake manifold ..................................................................

Knock sensor..........................................................................................Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor bolts (V6 engine).............................Oxygen sensor........................................................................................

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

105 in-lbs40 in-lbs105 in-lbs

60 in-lbs2095 in-lbs200 in-lbs

60 in-lbs100 in-lbs

20 in-lbs30 in-lbs90 in-lbs30 in-lbs20

6-2 Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

1.5 The VehicleEmission ControlInformation (VECI)

label is located in theengine compartmenton the upper radiatorsupport and containsinformation on engine

type, tune-upspecifications, type of

emissions controldevices used on yourvehicle and a vacuum

diagram

1 General information

Refer to illustration 1.51 To prevent pollution of the atmospherefrom incompletely burned and evaporatingfuel gases and to maintain good driveabilityand fuel economy, a number of emissioncontrol systems are incorporated. The majorsystems incorporated on the vehicles withwhich this manual is concerned include the:

Evaporative Emission Control (EVAP)system

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) systemOxygen sensor (02) systemPositive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV)

systemPowertrain Control Module (PCM)

(computer) and information sensorsCatalytic converter

2 The Sections in this Chapter includegeneral descriptions, checking procedureswithin the scope of the home mechanic andcomponent replacement procedures (whenpossible) for each of the systems listedabove.3 Before assuming an emissions controlsystem is malfunctioning, check the fuel andignition systems carefully. The diagnosis ofsome emission control devices requires spe-cialized tools, equipment and training. Ifchecking and servicing become too difficultor if a procedure is beyond your ability, con-sult a dealer service department or otherqualified service facility. Remember, the mostfrequent cause of emissions problems is sim-ply a loose or broken vacuum hose or wire,so always check the hose and electrical con-nections that interconnect the componentswithin each system first.4 This doesn't mean, however, that emis-sion control systems are particularly difficultto maintain and repair. You can quickly andeasily perform many checks and do most ofthe regular maintenance at home with com-mon tune-up and hand tools. Note: Becauseof a Federally mandated extended warrantywhich covers the emission control systemcomponents, check with your dealer aboutwarranty coverage before working on anyemissions-related systems. Once the war -

ranty has expired, you may wish to performsome of the component checks and/orreplacement procedures in this Chapter tosave money.5 Pay close attention to any special pre-cautions outlined in this Chapter. A VehicleEmissions Control Information (VECI) label islocated in the engine compartment (seeillustration). This label contains importantemissions specifications and adjustmentinformation. When servicing the engine oremissions systems, check the VECI label forinformation on your particular vehicle.

2 On Board Diagnosis (OBD-II)system - description and troublecode access

Diagnostic tool informationRefer to illustrations 2.1 and 2.21 A digital multi-meter is necessary forchecking fuel injection and emission relatedcomponents (see illustration). A digital volt-ohmmeter is preferred over the older styleanalog multi-meter for several reasons. Theanalog multi-meter cannot display the volt,ohms or amps measurement in hundredthsand thousandths increments. When workingwith electronic circuits which are often verylow voltage, this accurate reading is mostimportant. Another good reason for the digitalmulti-meter is the high impedance circuit.The digital multi-meter is equipped with ahigh resistance internal circuitry (10 millionohms). Because a voltmeter is hooked up inparallel with the circuit when testing, it is vitalthat none of the voltage being measuredshould be allowed to travel the parallel pathset up by the meter itself. This dilemma doesnot show itself when measuring largeramounts of voltage (9 to 12 volt circuits) but ifyou are measuring a low voltage circuit suchas the oxygen sensor signal voltage, a frac-tion of a volt may be a significant amountwhen diagnosing a problem.2 Hand-held scanners are the most pow-erful and versatile tools for analyzing enginemanagement systems used on later modelvehicles (see illustration). Each brand scan

2.1 Digital multi-meters can be used fortesting all types of circuits; because of

their high impedance, they are much moreaccurate than analog type meters for

measuring low voltage computer circuits

2.2 Scanners like the Actron ScanTooland the AutoXray XP240 are powerfuldiagnostic aids - programmed with

comprehensive diagnostic information,they can tell you just about anything you

want to know about your electronicengine management system

tool must be examined carefully to match theyear, make and model of the vehicle you areworking on. Often interchangeable cartridgesare available to access the particular manu-facturer (Chrysler, Ford, GM, etc.). Somemanufacturers will even specify by continent(Asia, Europe, USA, etc.).

OBD-ll system generaldescription3 The OBD-ll system consists of an on-board computer, known as the PowertrainControl Module (PCM) and information sen-sors which monitor various functions of theengine and then relay the data to the PCM.Based on the data received and the informa-

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems 6-3

tion programmed into the computer's mem-ory, the PCM then generates output signalsto control various engine functions via controlrelays, solenoids and other output actuators.4 The PCM, located in the engine com-partment and mounted to a bracket betweenthe air filter housing and the Power Distribu-tion Center (PDC), is the "brain" of the OBD-llsystem. The PCM is specifically calibrated tooptimize the emissions, fuel economy anddriveability of the vehicle.5 Because of a Federally mandatedextended warranty which covers the OBD-IIsystem components and because anyowner-induced damage to the PCM, the sen-sors and/or the control devices may void thewarranty, it is not recommended to attemptdiagnosis of, or replace the PCM at homewhile the vehicle is under warranty. Take thevehicle to your local dealer service depart-ment if the PCM or a system component mal-functions.

Information sensors6 The following is a list of the OBD-II sys-tem information sensors. For complete infor-mation and service procedures, refer to Sec-tion 3 (unless otherwise specified).

Brake switchCamshaft Position sensorCrankshaft Position sensorEngine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensorIntake Air Temperature (IAT) sensorKnock sensorLeak Detection Pump (LDP) (see

Section 7)Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensorOxygen sensorsPARK/NEUTRAL switch (see Chapter 7B)Power steering pressure switchThrottle Position Sensor (TPS)Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) (vehicles

equipped with manual transaxle only)

Output actuators7 The following is a list of the OBD-II sys-tem output actuators. For complete informa-tion and service procedures, refer to theChapter or Section as specified.

Air conditioning clutch relay (seeSection 3)

Automatic Shutdown relay (ASD) (seeChapter 4)

Canister purge control solenoid (seeSection 7)

EGR solenoid (see Section 6)Fuel injectors (see Chapter 4)Fuel pump relay (see Chapter 4)Idle Air Control (IAC) motor (see

Chapter 4)

CHECK ENGINE light orMalfunction Indicator Light(MIL)General description8 The CHECK ENGINE light or Malfunc-tion Indicator Light (MIL), is located in theinstrument panel and should illuminate for

2.11 The OBD-ll diagnostic connector(arrow) is located under the left (driver's)

side of the instrument panel

three seconds as a bulb test each time theengine is started. When the Powertrain Con-trol Module (PCM) detects a fault in the emis-sions or engine control system it sets a trou-ble code in the PCM's memory. If the PCMdetects a fault related to vehicle emissions, itill uminates the CHECK ENGINE light whichmeans an emissions component or system isin need of immediate service. In the event thePCM detects an active engine misfire, theCHECK ENGINE light will flash continuously.If this occurs, turn off the engine as soon aspossible and diagnose/correct the problemor severe catalytic converter damage mayoccur.9 The EVAP system (see Section 7),except on 1995 models, is pressurized by aLeak Detection Pump (LDP). If normal systempressure cannot be achieved by the LDP,which indicates a fuel vapor leak, the PCMwill store the appropriate fault code and illu-minate the CHECK ENGINE light on theinstrument panel. The most common causeof CHECK ENGINE light illumination is EVAPsystem pressure loss due to a loose or poorsealing fuel filler cap. Before accessing thetrouble codes and trying to determine thefaulty component, make sure your gas capseal is free from defects and is tightenedsecurely. Caution: Over-tightening the gascap may cause the fuel tank filler neck tocrack.10 In addition to notifying the driver whenan emissions fault has occurred, the CHECKENGINE light can be used to display thestored trouble codes from the PCM's mem-ory (see below).

Trouble code accessRefer to illustration 2.11Note: All models covered by this manual areequipped with the OBD-ll system. Generictrouble codes on 1997 and earlier models canbe accessed using the ignition key method,but it is necessary to use a SCAN tool to readand interpret manufacturer-specific troublecodes (or any trouble codes on 1998 models).Before outputting the trouble codes, thor-oughly inspect ALL electrical connectors and

hoses. Make sure all electrical connectionsare tight, clean and free of corrosion; makesure all hoses are properly connected, fittightly and are in good condition (no cracks ortears).11 The self-diagnosis information containedin the PCM (computer) can be accessedeither by the ignition key or by using a scantool. This tool is attached to the diagnosticconnector (see illustration) located under theleft (driver's) side of the instrument panel inthe passenger compartment and reads thecodes and parameters on the digital displayscreen. The tool is expensive and most homemechanics prefer to use the alternatemethod. The drawback with the ignition keymethod is that it does not access all the avail-able codes for display. Most problems can besolved or diagnosed quite easily and if theinformation cannot be obtained readily, havethe vehicle's self-diagnosis system analyzedby a dealer service department or other qual-ified repair shop.12 To obtain the codes using the ignitionkey method, first set the parking brake andput the shift lever in Park. Raise the enginespeed to approximately 2,500 rpm and slowlylet the speed down to idle. Also, if equipped,cycle the air conditioning system (on briefly,then off). Next, on models equipped with anautomatic transaxle, apply the brakes andselect each position on the transmission(Reverse, Drive, Low etc.), finally bring theshifter back to Park and turn off the engine.This will allow the computer to obtain anyfault codes that might be linked to any of thesensors controlled by the transmission,engine speed or air conditioning system.13 To display the codes on the instrumentpanel (CHECK ENGINE light or MalfunctionIndicator Light), with the engine NOT running,turn the ignition key ON, OFF, ON, OFF andfinally ON (must be done within 5 seconds).The codes will begin to flash. The light willblink the number of the first digit then pauseand blink the number of the second digit. Forexample: Code 23, air temperature sensorcircuit, would be indicated by two flashes,pause, three flashes.14 Certain criteria must be met for a faultcode to be entered into the PCM's memory.The criteria might be a specific range ofengine rpm, engine temperature or input volt-age to the PCM. It's possible that a fault codefor a particular monitored circuit may not beentered into the memory despite a malfunc-tion. This may happen because one of thefault code criteria has not been met. Forexample, the engine must be operatingbetween 750 and 2,000 rpm in order to moni-tor the MAP sensor circuit correctly. If theengine speed is raised above 2,400 rpm, theMAP sensor output circuit shorts to groundand will not allow a fault code to be enteredinto the memory. Then again, the exactopposite could occur: A code is entered intothe memory that suggests a malfunctionwithin another component that is not moni-tored by the computer. For example, a fuelpressure problem cannot register a fault

6

6-4 Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

directly but instead, it will cause a rich or leanfuel mixture problem. Consequently, this willcause an oxygen sensor malfunction result-ing in a stored code in the computer for theoxygen sensor. Be aware of the interrelation-ship of the sensors and circuits and the over-all relationship of the emissions control and

fuel injection systems. A trouble code doesnot identify which component in a circuit isfaulty, therefore the code should be treatedas a symptom, not the direct cause of theproblem.15 The accompanying table is a list of thetypical trouble codes which may be encoun -

tered while diagnosing the system. Alsoincluded are simplified troubleshooting pro-cedures. If the problem persists after thesechecks have been made, more detailed ser-vice procedures will have to be performed bya dealer service department or other qualifiedrepair shop.

Trouble codes - 1995 through 1997 models (using CHECK ENGINE light)Note: Not all trouble codes apply to all models.

Code 11 ................. Intermittent loss of crankshaft and/or camshaft position sensor signals to PCM.Code 12.................Problem with the battery connection. Direct battery input to PCM disconnected within the last 50 ignition key-on cycles.Code 13** ..............Problem with the MAP sensor circuit.Code 14** ..............MAP sensor voltage out of normal range.Code 15** ..............A problem with the Vehicle Speed Sensor signal. No Vehicle Speed Sensor signal detected during road load conditions.Code 16.................No input signal from knock sensor.Code 17 .................Engine is cold too long. Engine coolant temperature remains below normal operating temperatures during initial operation

(check the thermostat).Code 21**.............. Problem with oxygen sensor signal circuit. Sensor voltage to computer not fluctuating.Code 22**.............. Engine coolant temperature sensor voltage out of normal range.Code 23**.............. Intake air temperature sensor voltage out of normal range.Code 24**..............Throttle position sensor voltage high or low. Test the throttle position sensor.Code 25**.............. Idle Air Control (IAC) valve circuits. A shorted condition is detected in one or more of the IAC valve circuits. Or a vacuum

leak is detected.Code 27.................One of the injector control circuit output drivers does not respond properly to the control signal. Check the circuits.Code 31**.............. EVAP system fault.Code 32**..............An open or shorted condition detected in the EGR solenoid circuit. Possible air/fuel ratio imbalance not detected

during diagnosis.Code 33.................Air conditioning clutch relay circuit. An open or shorted condition detected in the compressor clutch relay circuit.Code 34.................Open or shorted condition detected in the speed control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits.Code 35.................Open or shorted condition detected in the radiator fan high or low speed relay circuits.Code 37**..............Transaxle PARK/NEUTRAL switch failure.Code 41 *** .............Problem with the charging system. An open or shorted condition detected in the alternator field control circuit.Code 42.................Fuel pump relay or auto shutdown relay (ASD) control circuit indicates an open or shorted circuit condition.Code 43** ..............Multiple cylinder misfire detected. Peak primary circuit current not achieved with the maximum dwell time.Code 44** ..............Battery temperature sensor voltage circuit.Code 45.................Transaxle fault present in transmission control module - automatic transaxles.Code 46*** .............Charging system voltage too high. Computer indicates that the battery voltage is not properly regulated.Code 47*** .............Charging system voltage too low. Battery voltage sensor input below target charging voltage during engine operation and

no significant change in voltage detected during active test of alternator output.Code 51** .............. Oxygen sensor signal input indicates lean fuel/air ratio condition during engine operation.Code 52** .............. Oxygen sensor signal input indicates rich fuel/air ratio condition during engine operation.Code 53** .............. Internal PCM failure detected.Code 54**.............. No camshaft position sensor signal from distributor. Problem with the distributor synchronization circuit.Code 55.................Completion of fault code display on CHECK ENGINE light. This is the end of stored codes.Code 61................. MAP sensor out of range.Code 62.................Unsuccessful attempt to update EMR mileage in the controller EEPROM.Code 63**.............. Controller failure. EEPROM write denied. Check the PCM.Code 64**.............. Catalytic converter efficiency below required level.Code 65**.............. Power steering switch failure or no release of brake switch detected.Code 66.................Transmission control module (TCM) or body control module (BCM) not sensed by PCM.Code 71................. PCM output voltage low.Code 72**..............Catalytic converter efficiency below required level.Code 77.................Speed Control relay fault.

** These codes illuminate the CHECK ENGINE light on the instrument panel during engine operation once the trouble code has been recorded.***These codes illuminate the charging system light (battery) on the instrument panel during engine operation once the trouble code has been

recorded.

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems 6-5

Trouble codes - using scan toolNote: These are "generic" trouble codes and pertain to all models covered by this manual.

Code Probable causeP0102..........................Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor circuit low inputP0103..........................Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor circuit high inputP0106..........................Barometric pressure out of rangeP0107..........................Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor voltage too lowP0108..........................Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor voltage too highP0112..........................Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor circuit low inputP0113..........................Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor circuit high inputP0117..........................Electronic Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit low inputP0118..........................Electronic Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit high inputP0121.......................... In range Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) faultP0122......................... Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) circuit low inputP0123......................... Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) circuit high inputP0131..........................Upstream heated 02 sensor circuit low voltage (Bank 1)P0132..........................Upstream heated 02 sensor shorted to voltageP0133..........................Upstream heated 02 sensor circuit slow response (Bank 1)P0135..........................Upstream heated 02 sensor heater circuit fault (Bank 1)P0136..........................Downstream heated 02 sensor fault (Bank 1)P0138..........................Downstream heated 02 sensor shorted to voltageP0140..........................Downstream heated 02 sensor - neither rich nor lean condition detectedP0141 .......................... Downstream heated 02 sensor heater circuit fault (Bank 1)P0151 .......................... Upstream heated 02 sensor circuit low voltage (Bank 2)P0153..........................Upstream heated 02 sensor circuit slow response (Bank 2)P0155..........................Upstream heated 02 sensor heater circuit fault (Bank 2)P0156..........................Downstream heated 02 sensor fault (Bank 2)P0161.......................... Downstream heated 02 sensor heater circuit fault (Bank 2)P0171..........................System Adaptive fuel too lean (Bank 1)P0172..........................System Adaptive fuel too rich (Bank 1)P0174..........................System Adaptive fuel too lean (Bank 2)P0172..........................System Adaptive fuel too rich (Bank 2)P0191.......................... Injector Pressure sensor system performanceP0192..........................Injector Pressure sensor circuit low inputP0193..........................Injector Pressure sensor circuit high inputP0201.......................... Injector no. 1 output driver not responding properlyP0202..........................Injector no. 2 output driver not responding properlyP0203..........................Injector no. 3 output driver not responding properlyP0204..........................Injector no. 4 output driver not responding properlyP0205..........................Injector no. 5 output driver not responding properlyP0206..........................Injector no. 6 output driver not responding properlyP0300..........................Multiple cylinder misfiring detectedP0301..........................Cylinder no. 1 misfire detectedP0302..........................Cylinder no. 2 misfire detectedP0303..........................Cylinder no. 3 misfire detectedP0304..........................Cylinder no. 4 misfire detectedP0305..........................Cylinder no. 5 misfire detectedP0306..........................Cylinder no. 6 misfire detectedP0325..........................Knock sensor circuit faultP0326..........................Knock sensor circuit performanceP0351.......................... Ignition coil no. 1 primary circuit faultP0352..........................Ignition coil no. 2 primary circuit faultP0353..........................Ignition coil no. 3 primary circuit faultP0354..........................Ignition coil no. 4 primary circuit faultP0355..........................Ignition coil no. 5 primary circuit fault

6

6-6 Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

Trouble codes - using scan tool (continued)Note: These are "generic" trouble codes and pertain to all models covered by this manual.

Code Probable causeP0356..........................Ignition coil no. 6 primary circuit faultP0400..........................EGR flow faultP0401..........................EGR insufficient flow detectedP0402..........................EGR excessive flow detectedP0403..........................EGR transducer circuit open or shortedP0420..........................Catalyst system efficiency below threshold (Bank 1)P0421..........................Catalyst system efficiency below threshold (Bank 1)P0430..........................Catalyst system efficiency below threshold (Bank 2)P0431..........................Catalyst system efficiency below threshold (Bank 2)P0442..........................EVAP small leak detectedP0443..........................EVAP VMV circuit faultP0452..........................EVAP fuel tank pressure sensor low inputP0453..........................EVAP fuel tank pressure sensor high inputP0455..........................Leak in EVAP system detectedP0462..........................Fuel level sending unit - low voltage indicatedP0463..........................Fuel level sending unit - high voltage indicatedP0460..........................Fuel level sending unit - no movement detectedP0500.........................VSS faultP0505..........................IAC valve system faultP0600..........................PCM internal faultP0601 .......................... PCM internal faultP0603..........................PCM Keep Alive Memory test errorP0605..........................PCM Read Only Memory test errorP0622......................... Alternator field circuit open or shortedP0645......................... A/C clutch relay circuit open or shortedP0700......................... Automatic transmission fault detectedP0703..........................Brake switch stuck open or closed

3 Information sensors and outputactuators - description, checkand replacement

Note 1: All models covered by this manualare equipped with the OBD-ll system. Theengine codes on 1997 and earlier models canbe accessed using the ignition key, but it isnecessary to use a special factory SCAN tool(DRB-1l) to read and interpret all the variouslevels of diagnostic information (or any trou-ble codes on 1998 and later models). Havethe vehicle diagnosed by a dealer servicedepartment or other qualified repair shop ifthe following component checking proce-dures fail to identify and correct a problem.Note 2: After performing checking proce-dures on any of the OBD-ll components, besure to clear the PCM of all trouble codes bydisconnecting the negative cable from theremote battery terminal for at least ten sec-onds.

Air conditioning clutch relayGeneral description1 If the vehicle is equipped with air condi-tioning, the PCM controls the application ofthe air conditioning compressor clutch. ThePCM uses the air conditioning clutch relay to

delay clutch engagement when the air condi-tioning is turned ON to allow the IAC motor toadjust the engine idle speed to compensatefor the additional load. The PCM will also dis-engage the A/C compressor clutch if therefrigerant pressure is too high or too low, theengine coolant temperature is too hot, whenthe throttle is placed in the wide-open posi-tion or the PCM senses a part-throttle launchcondition.

Check and replacementRefer to illustration 3.32 First check for battery voltage to the airconditioning clutch with the engine runningand the air conditioning turned ON. Detachthe electrical connector from the air condi-tioning compressor and using a test light or avoltmeter check for battery voltage at theconnector dark blue/black wire.3 If voltage is not present at the connec-tor, check for voltage to the air conditioningcompressor clutch relay, which is locatedunder the rectangular cover of the Power Dis-tribution Center (PDC). Remove the relayfrom the PDC. With the engine running andthe air conditioning ON, check for batteryvoltage to terminals 39 and 19 (see illustra-tion). If voltage is present, replace the relay. Ifvoltage is not present at the connector, referto Chapter 3 for more information on trou-

3.3 Terminal guide for the air conditioningcompressor clutch relay socket

bleshooting the air conditioning system. Inmost cases, if the air conditioning systemdoes not operate, a problem exists with theair conditioning pressure switches or controlsand not the PCM.4 To replace the air conditioning clutchrelay, remove the cover from the PDC andpull the relay out of its socket. Installation isthe reverse of removal.

Brake switchGeneral description5 When the brakes are applied, the brakeswitch sends a signal to the PCM. Afterreceiving this input, the PCM maintains idlespeed to a scheduled rpm via the IAC motor.

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems 6-7

Check and replacement6 Refer to Chapter 9 for service proce-dures.

Camshaft position sensorGeneral descriptionRefer to illustrations 3.7a and 3.7b7 On four-cylinder engines, the camshaftposition sensor, located at the rear of thecylinder head (see illustrations), providescylinder identification to the PCM to synchro-nize the fuel system with the ignition system.The synchronizing signal is generated from arotating target magnet attached to the rear ofthe camshaft. The target magnet has four dif-ferent poles arranged in a symmetrical pat-tern. As the target magnet rotates, the sensorsenses the changes in polarity and generatespulses from high (5 volts) to low (0.30 volts).These voltage pulses combined with the datafrom the crankshaft sensor are processed bythe PCM which then determines fuel injectionsynchronization. On 2.0L DOHC and 2.4Lfour-cylinder engines, the sensor also acts asa thrust plate to control camshaft endplay.8 On V6 engines the camshaft positionsensor is located inside the distributor whichis located on the right side (rear) cylinderhead and driven by the camshaft. Thecamshaft position sensor is a Hall Effectdevice which detects a rotating ring (shutter)mounted to the distributor shaft. When theleading edge of the shutter enters the HallEffect device, the interruption of the magneticfield causes a signal of approximately 5 voltsto be sent to the PCM. As the trailing edge ofthe shutter leaves the device, the voltage sig-nal is turned off. These voltage pulses com-bined with the data from the crankshaft sen-sor are processed by the PCM which thendetermines fuel injection synchronization.

CheckRefer to illustration 3.9Note: To backprobe an electrical connector,use pins or paper clips inserted into the rearof the connector (or wire) to facilitate meterattachment. Be careful not to short the

probes during this process.

3.7b Camshaft position sensor - 2.0LDOHC and 2.4L engines

9 With the ignition key in the ON position(engine OFF), check for supply voltage at theORANGE/WHITE wire (1995 to 1997 vehicles)or the ORANGE wire (1998 and later vehicles)at the camshaft position sensor connector(four-cylinder engines) and the distributorconnector (V6 engines) (see illustration). Thesupply voltage should be approximately 8volts. If no voltage is present, check the circuitfor a broken wire or short (see Chapter 12). Ifthe circuit checks out OK, have the PCMchecked out by your local dealer servicedepartment or other qualified repair shop.10 Next, disconnect the spark plug wiresfrom the ignition coil (four-cylinder engines)or the distributor cap (V6 engine) (see Chap-ter 1 if necessary). With the connectorattached to the sensor, use a voltmeter tobackprobe the tan/yellow signal wire (posi-tive) and the black/light blue ground wire andcrank the engine. The voltmeter should fluc-tuate from approximately 0.3 to 5 volts forfour-cylinder engines and 0 to 5 volts for V6engines. If supply voltage is detected butthere is no signal voltage, replace thecamshaft sensor. After testing, replace thespark plug wires in their proper positions.

Replacement

Four-cylinder engines11 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).12 Remove the air cleaner assembly (seeChapter 4).13 On 2.0L SOHC engines, disconnect theelectrical connectors from the engine coolantsensor and camshaft position sensor.Remove the brake booster hose and electri-cal connectors from the holders on the end ofthe valve cover.14 Remove the bolts from the camshaftsensor and withdraw the sensor from the rearof the cylinder head.15 If necessary, remove the target magnetmounting screw and remove the magnet.16 Installation is the reverse of removal. Ifremoved, align the locating pins on the back-side of the target magnet with the locating

3.9 On V6 engines, the camshaft positionsensor is located inside the distributor.The 6-pin electrical connector (arrow)contains the sensor wires - the 2-pinelectrical connector is for the ignition

coil circuit

holes in the rear of the camshaft. Tighten thefasteners to the torques listed in this Chap-ter's Specifications.

V6 engines17 If the camshaft position sensor is deter-mined to be defective, replace the distributorassembly (see Chapter 5).

Crankshaft position sensorGeneral descriptionRefer to illustrations 3.18a and 3.18b18 The PCM uses the crankshaft positionsensor to determine fuel injector sequence,ignition timing and engine rpm. Thecrankshaft position sensor is a Hall-Effectdevice which uses cut-outs in the crankshaft(four-cylinder engines) or slots is the drive-plate (V6 engine) to send voltage pulses tothe PCM. The fuel injection and ignition sys-tems will not operate if the PCM does notreceive a signal from the crankshaft positionsensor. On four-cylinder engines, thecrankshaft position sensor is located on theside of the engine block between the mainbearing cap/bedplate and engine block nearthe oil filter (see illustration). On V6 engines,

3.18a Crankshaft position sensor - four-cylinder engines

6

6-8 Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

3.18b Crankshaft position sensor - V6 engine

3.33a On 2.0L four-cylinder engines, the Engine CoolantTemperature (ECT) sensor (arrow) is located at the rear of the

cylinder head

CRANKSHAFTPOSITION SENSOR

ENGINE COOLANTTEMPERATURE

SENDING UNIT

3.3313 On 2.4L four-cylinder engines, theEngine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensoris located at the front of the cylinder head

3.33c On V6 engines, the Engine CoolantTemperature (ECT) sensor (arrow) is

located at the rear of the cylinder headnear the engine coolant filler neck

the crankshaft position sensor is located onthe transaxle bellhousing and below the dis-tributor (see illustration).

CheckNote 1: To perform this check on four-cylin-der engines, it is necessary to raise the frontof the vehicle and place it securely on jack-stands. On V6 engines, it will be necessary todetach the speed control servo from the leftshock tower, if equipped.Note 2: To backprobe an electrical connec-tor, use pins or paper clips inserted into therear of the connector (or wire) to facilitatemeter attachment. Be careful not to short theprobes during this process.19 Check the supply voltage to thecrankshaft sensor from the PCM. Locate thecrankshaft sensor electrical connector. Withthe ignition key ON (engine OFF) backprobethe orange/white wire (positive) using a volt-meter. There should be approximately 8.0volts present. If no voltage is present, checkthe circuit for a broken wire or short (seeChapter 12). If the circuit checks out OK,have the PCM checked out by your localdealer service department or other qualifiedrepair shop.20 Next, disconnect the spark plug wiresfrom the ignition coil (four-cylinder engines)or the distributor cap (V6 engine) (see Chap-ter 1 if necessary). With the connectorattached to the sensor, use a voltmeter tobackprobe the gray/black signal wire (posi-tive) and the black/light blue ground wire andcrank the engine. The voltmeter should fluc-tuate from approximately 0.3 to 5 volts. Ifsupply voltage is detected but there is no sig-nal voltage, replace the crankshaft sensor.After testing, replace the spark plug wires intheir proper positions.

ReplacementFour-cylinder engines21 Raise the front of the vehicle and sup-port it securely on jackstands.22 Disconnect the crankshaft sensor wiringharness connector.23 Remove the mounting bolt and with-draw the crankshaft sensor from the engineblock.

24 Installation is the reverse of removal.Tighten the bolt to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications and lower the vehi-cle.

V6 engine25 If equipped, detach the speed controlservo from the left shock tower and positionit out of the way.26 Detach the crankshaft sensor wiringharness connector from the heater tubebracket and disconnect the electrical con-nector.27 Remove the mounting bolt and with-draw the crankshaft sensor from thetransaxle bellhousing.28 If the old sensor is to be re-installed,remove the paper spacer from the sensorface and install a new spacer. If installing anew sensor, verify the paper spacer isinstalled on the face.29 Place the sensor in the bellhousing andinstall the mounting bolt loosely.30 If the crankshaft sensor mounting hole iselongated, push the sensor down into thebellhousing until contact is made with thedriveplate. Tighten the mounting bolt to thetorque listed in this Chapter's Specifications(the paper spacer locates the sensor in the

proper position and will rub off during opera-tion).31 If the sensor does not have an elon-gated hole, simply install the sensor andtighten the mounting bolt to the torque listedin this Chapter's Specifications.32 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal.

Engine Coolant Temperature(ECT) sensorGeneral descriptionRefer to illustrations 3.33a, 3.33b and 3.33c33 The ECT sensor is a thermistor (a resis-tor which varies the value of its resistance inaccordance with temperature changes) (seeillustrations). The change in the resistancevalues will directly affect the voltage signalfrom the coolant thermosensor. As the sen-sor temperature DECREASES, the resistancevalues will INCREASE. As the sensor temper-ature INCREASES, the resistance values willDECREASE.

CheckNote: On V6 engines it will be necessary toremove the air cleaner assembly (see Chap-ter 4) before performing this test.

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems 6-9

3.37 If you're re-installing the old ECTsensor, wrap the threads with Teflon tape

to prevent leakage

34 To check the ECT sensor, release thelocking tab and disconnect the electrical con-nector. Using an ohmmeter across the sensorterminals, measure the resistance of the ECTsensor with the engine cold (approximately70-degrees F). The ECT resistance valueshould be between 7,000 and 13,000 ohms.Next, start the engine and allow it to reachoperating temperature (approximately 200-degrees F), then turn off the engine. Measurethe ECT resistance again, the resistanceshould be between 700 and 1,000 ohms.Note: Since the coolant sensor is difficult toaccess on some vehicles, it may be easier to

remove the sensor and perform the tests in apan of heated water where the water temper-ature can be controlled.

ReplacementRefer to illustration 3.37Warning: Wait until the engine is completelycool before beginning this procedure.35 Drain the cooling system until thecoolant level is below the sensor (see Chap-ter 1).36 Release the locking tab and disconnectthe electrical connector, then carefullyunscrew the sensor. Caution: Handle thecoolant sensor with care. Damage to this sen-sor will affect the operation of the entire fuelinjection system.37 If you are re-installing the old sensor,clean the threads and then wrap them withTeflon tape to prevent leakage and threadcorrosion (see illustration). Note: New ECTsensors have sealant already applied to thethreads.38 Installation is the reverse of removal.Tighten the ECT sensor to the torque listed inthis Chapter's Specifications. Refill the cool-ing system after installation (see Chapter 1).

Idle Air Control (IAC) motor39 This output actuator controls the engineidle speed. For service procedures on theIAC motor, refer to Chapter 4. A failure in theIAC motor circuit will set a code 25 in thePCM memory.

Intake Air Temperature (IAT)sensorNote: 1995 models with 2.0L SOHC enginescame equipped with an IAT sensor and aMAP sensor. On 1996 and later models, theIATsensor is combined with the MAP sensorinto a single unit.

General informationRefer to illustrations 3.40a, 3.40b and 3.40c40 The Intake Air Temperature sensor islocated in the intake manifold (see illustra-tions). This sensor operates as a negativetemperature coefficient (NTC) device. As thesensor temperature DECREASES, the resis-tance values will INCREASE. As the sensortemperature INCREASES, the resistance val-ues will DECREASE. Most cases, the appro-priate solution to the problem will be eitherrepair of a wire or replacement of the sensor.

CheckRefer to illustration 3.41Note: On 2.4L four-cylinder engines, the aircleaner assembly must be removed (seeChapter 4) before this check can be per-formed. Since the IAT sensor is difficult toaccess on 2.4L models, it may be easier toremove the sensor and perform the check ona workbench and heat the sensor using a heatgun or hair dryer.41 To check the sensor, release the lockingtab and disconnect the electrical connector

3.40a On 1996and later 2.0L

SOHC engines,the IAT and MAP

sensors arecombined into

one unit

3.40b On 2.4L and 2.0L DOHC engines, the IAT sensor islocated on the intake manifold on the cylinder head side

3.40c On V6 engines, the MAP (A) and IAT (B) sensors are locatedon the right (passenger) side of the upper intake manifold -

manifold removed for clarity3.41 Disconnecting the electrical connector from the IAT sensor -

V6 engine shown

6

6-10 Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

3.47 Knock sensor (four-cylinder engines)as viewed from under the vehicle

(see illustration). Using an ohmmeter acrossthe sensor terminals, measure the resistanceof the sensor at ambient temperature(approximately 70-degrees F). The resistanceshould be between 7,000 and 13,000 ohms.Next, start the engine and allow it to reachoperating temperature (approximately 200-degrees F). Measure the resistance again - itshould be between 700 and 1,000 ohms.

Replacement42 On 1996 and later models with 2.0Lfour-cylinder engines, refer to the MAP sen-sor removal procedure in this Section.43 On 2.4L four-cylinder engines, removethe air cleaner assembly (see Chapter 4). Togain access to the IAT sensor, reach betweenthe intake manifold and the cylinder headinserting your hand at the throttle body end.Perform this operation when the engine tem-perature is cold to avoid burning yourself.44 Release the locking tab and disconnectthe electrical connector from the sensor.45 Unscrew and remove the sensor fromthe intake manifold.46 Installation is the reverse of removal.Tighten the IAT sensor to the torque given inthis Chapter's Specifications.

Knock sensor - four-cylinderenginesGeneral informationRefer to illustration 3.4747 Four-cylinder engines are equipped witha knock sensor mounted on the side of theengine block near the starter motor (seeillustration). The knock sensor is a piezo-electric crystal that oscillates with enginevibration. When knock is detected, the PCMretards the ignition timing until the knockingstops.

CheckNote 1: 1995 to 1997 models operate ondirect current (dc), 1998 and later models usealternating current (ac).Note 2: To backprobe an electrical connec-tor, use pins or paper clips inserted into the

3.57 Typical MAP sensor electricalconnector - inset shows 1996 and later2.0L engine MAP/IAT sensor connector

rear of the connector (or wire) to facilitatemeter attachment. Be careful not to short theprobes during this process.48 Raise the front of the vehicle and sup-port it securely on jackstands.49 Disconnect the sensor electrical con-nector.50 Using a voltmeter (switched to theproper setting - see Note above), connect thenegative probe to ground, and the positiveprobe to the knock sensor electrical connec-tor black/light green wire. Turn the ignitionswitch ON (engine off). The voltmeter shouldindicate approximately 4 volts (dc) for 1995 to1997 models and 600 mV (ac) for 1998 mod-els. Turn OFF the ignition. If no voltage isindicated, check for a blown fuse and exam-ine the wires for obvious damage. If the cir-cuit looks OK, have the PCM checked out atyour local dealer service department or otherqualified repair shop.51 Install the sensor electrical connectoronto the sensor. Using a voltmeter, back-probe the knock sensor electrical terminals(positive probe to black/light green wire).Turn the ignition key ON (engine off).52 While watching the voltmeter, lightly tapthe metal part of the sensor body with awrench. The voltmeter should start to jumpas the sensor is triggered. Turn OFF the igni-tion. If the voltage doesn't fluctuate, replacethe sensor.

Replacement53 Raise the front of the vehicle and sup-port it securely on jackstands.54 Disconnect the electrical connector andunscrew the knock sensor from the engineblock.55 Installation is the reverse of removal.Tighten the knock sensor to the torque listedin this Chapter's Specifications.

Manifold Absolute Pressure(MAP) sensorNote: 1995 models with 2.0L SOHC enginescame equipped with an /AT sensor and aMAP sensor. On 1996 and later models, the

3.62a Upstream oxygen sensor (arrow) -V6 engine (front exhaust manifold) shown

IAT sensor is combined with the MAP sensorinto a single unit.

General description56 The MAP sensor monitors the intakemanifold pressure changes resulting fromchanges in engine load and speed and con-verts the information into a voltage output.The PCM uses the MAP sensor to control fueldelivery and ignition timing. The PCM willreceive the information as a voltage signalthat will vary from approximately 1.5 to 2.1volts at closed throttle (high vacuum) and 4.0to 4.5 volts at wide open throttle (low vac-uum). The MAP sensor is located on theintake manifold (see illustrations 3.40a,3.40b, and 3.40c).

CheckRefer to illustration 3.57Note: To backprobe an electrical connector,use pins or paper clips inserted into the rearof the connector (or wire) to facilitate meterattachment. Be careful not to let the probestouch each other during this process.57 First, check the MAP sensor supply volt-age; disconnect the electrical connector andturn the ignition key ON (engine OFF). Using avoltmeter, check for voltage between the vio-let/white wire (positive) and the black/lightblue wire (sensor ground) at the sensor con-nector (see illustration). There should beapproximately 4 to 5 volts present. If no volt-age is indicated, check for a blown fuse andexamine the wires for obvious damage. If thecircuit looks OK, have the PCM checked outat your local dealer service department orother qualified repair shop.58 Next check the MAP sensor output volt-age; reconnect the electrical connector to thesensor and turn the ignition key ON (engineOFF). Using a voltmeter, backprobe theblack/light blue wire (sensor ground) and thedark green/red wire (MAP signal output -positive) at the sensor connector. Thereshould be approximately 4 to 5 volts present.If supply voltage is detected but there is nosignal voltage, replace the MAP sensor. Start

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems 6-11

3.62b Downstream oxygen sensor (arrow)

the engine, the voltage should drop toapproximately 1.5 to 2.1 volts with the engineidling. If the MAP sensor voltage readings areincorrect, replace the MAP sensor.

Replacement59 Disconnect the electrical connectorfrom the MAP sensor.60 Remove the MAP sensor mounting boltsand detach the sensor from the intake mani-fold.61 Installation is the reverse of removal.Tighten the sensor bolts to the torque givenin this Chapter's Specifications.

Oxygen sensorGeneral descriptionRefer to illustrations 3.62a and 3.62b62 Four-cylinder engines are equipped witht wo oxygen sensors, an upstream oxygensensor, which is located in the exhaust mani-fold and a downstream oxygen sensor, whichis located at the outlet pipe of the catalyticconverter (see illustrations). On V6 engines,there are three oxygen sensors, twoupstream sensors - one located in eachexhaust manifold (front and rear) and onelocated at the outlet pipe of the catalytic con-verter. The upstream oxygen sensor(s) act asa rich/lean switch indicating the air/fuel mix-ture to the PCM which then adjusts the injec-tor pulse width to obtain the ideal mixtureratio of 14.7 parts of air to 1 part fuel. Thedownstream oxygen sensor provides thePCM with the same information as theupstream sensor, but by comparing the datafrom both sensors, the PCM can monitor cat-alytic converter efficiency. The oxygen con-tent in the exhaust reacts with the oxygensensor to produce a voltage output whichvaries from 0.1 volt (high oxygen, lean mix-ture) to 1.0 volts (low oxygen, rich mixture).The sensors are equipped with a heating ele-ment that keeps the them at proper operatingtemperature during all operating modes.63 The oxygen sensor produces no voltagewhen it is below its normal operating temper-ature of about 600 degrees F. During this ini-tial period before warm-up, the PCM oper -

ates in the OPEN LOOP mode.64 When there is a problem with the oxy-gen sensor or its circuit, the PCM operates inthe open loop mode - that is, it controls fueldelivery in accordance with a programmeddefault value instead of feedback informationfrom the oxygen sensors.65 The proper operation of the oxygen sen-sors depends on four conditions:

a) Electrical - The low voltages generatedby the sensors depend upon good,clean connections which should bechecked whenever a malfunction of thesensor(s) is suspected or indicated.

b) Outside air supply - The sensors aredesigned to allow air circulation to theinternal portion of the sensor. Wheneverthe sensor is removed and installed orreplaced, make sure the air passages arenot restricted.

c) Proper operating temperature - ThePCM will not react to the sensor signaluntil the sensor reaches approximately600-degrees F. This factor must betaken into consideration when evaluatingthe performance of the sensor.

d) Unleaded fuel - The use of unleadedfuel is essential for proper operation ofthe sensors. Make sure the fuel you areusing is of this type.

66 In addition to observing the above con-ditions, special care must be taken wheneverthe sensor(s) is serviced.

a) The oxygen sensors have a permanentlyattached pigtail and electrical connectorwhich should not be removed from thesensor. Damage or removal of the pigtailor electrical connector can adverselyaffect operation of the sensor(s) andengine.

b) Grease, dirt and other contaminantsshould be kept away from the electricalconnector and the louvered end of thesensor(s).

c) Do not use cleaning solvents of any kindon the oxygen sensors.

d) Do not drop or roughly handle the sen-sors.

Check67 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands.68 Locate the oxygen sensor electricalconnector and disconnect it. Using a volt-meter, check for battery supply voltage; con-nect the positive probe to the darkgreen/orange wire (or orange/dark green wiredepending on engine/year) and the black wireat the connector terminal. Because the bat-tery voltage is supplied to the sensor throughthe ASD relay, voltage will only be suppliedfor a very short time, approximately 4 sec-onds. Have an assistant turn the ignition keyto the ON position (engine OFF) severaltimes while you observe the voltmeter. Thevoltmeter should jump up to battery voltageeach time the ignition is turned ON. If no volt-age is indicated, check for a blown fuse andexamine the wires for obvious damage. If the

circuit looks OK, check the ASD relay (seeChapter 4) and if necessary, have the PCMchecked out at your local dealer servicedepartment or other qualified repair shop.69 Next, check the sensor heater resis-tance; using an ohmmeter, measure theresistance between the two white wire termi-nals of the sensor electrical connector. Theresistance should be approximately 4 to 7ohms. If the resistance is not as specified,replace the sensor.

ReplacementRefer to illustration 3.71Note: Because they are installed in theexhaust manifold and catalytic converter,which contracts when cool, the oxygen sen-sors may be very difficult to loosen when theengine is cold. Rather than risk damage to thesensor (assuming you are planning to reuse itin another manifold or pipe), start and run theengine for a minute or two, then shut it off. Becareful not to burn yourself during the follow-ing procedure.70 Raise the vehicle and place it securelyon jackstands.71 Carefully disconnect the electrical con-nector from the sensor and unscrew the sen-sor from the exhaust manifold or catalyticconverter (see illustration).72 If the sensor is to be re-installed, applyan anti-seize compound to the threads tofacilitate future removal. The threads of newsensors are already coated with this com-pound.73 Install the sensor and tighten it to thetorque given in this Chapter's Specifications.74 Reconnect the electrical connector ofthe sensor lead to the engine wiring harnessand lower the vehicle.

PARK/NEUTRAL positionswitch75 Refer to Chapter 7 for the Park/Neutralposition switch service procedures. A failurein the PARK/NEUTRAL sensor circuit will seta code 37 in the PCM memory.

3.71 Special sockets are available foroxygen sensor removal; however, a

flare-nut wrench or crows foot worksjust as well

6

6-12

Power steering pressureswitch76 Turning the steering wheel increases thepower steering fluid pressure and the loadplaced upon the engine by the power steer-ing pump. The pressure switch will closebefore the load causes an idle problem.77 A pressure switch that will not open oran open circuit from the PCM will cause theignition timing to retard at idle and this willaffect idle quality.78 A pressure switch that will not close oran open circuit may cause the engine to diewhen the power steering system is usedheavily.79 Any problems with the power steeringpressure switch or circuit should be diag-nosed and repaired by a dealer servicedepartment or other qualified repair shop.

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)General descriptionRefer to illustrations 3.80a and 3.80b80 The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) islocated on the end of the throttle shaft on thethrottle body (see illustrations). By monitor-ing the output voltage from the TPS, the PCMcan determine fuel delivery based on throttlevalve angle (driver demand). A broken orloose TPS can cause intermittent bursts offuel from the injectors and an unstable idlebecause the PCM senses the throttle is mov-ing.

CheckNote: To backprobe an electrical connector,use pins or paper clips inserted into the rearof the connector (or wire) to facilitate meterattachment. Be careful not to short theprobes during this process.81 First, check the TPS supply voltage; dis-connect the electrical connector and turn theignition key ON (engine OFF). Using a volt-meter, check for voltage between the vio-let/white wire (positive) and the black/lightblue wire (ground) at the sensor connector.There should be approximately 5 volts pre -

3.80a The throttle Position Sensor (TPS)(arrow) is mounted on the throttle body -

2.0L four-cylinder engine shown,2.4L similar

sent. If no voltage is indicated, check for ablown fuse and examine the wires for obvi-ous damage. If the circuit looks OK, have thePCM checked out at your local dealer servicedepartment or other qualified repair shop.82 Next, connect the electrical connectorto the TPS. Using a voltmeter, backprobe theorange/light blue wire (TPS signal - positive)and the black/light blue wire (ground). Turnthe ignition key to the ON position (engineOFF). With the throttle valve fully closed, thevoltmeter should indicate approximately 0.5volts. Slowly open the throttle valve andwatch for a smooth increase in voltage as thesensor travels from the closed to full position.The voltage should increase to approximately4 volts. If the readings are not as specified,replace the TPS.

ReplacementRefer to illustration 3.8583 Remove the throttle body from theintake manifold (see Chapter 4).84 Unscrew the mounting screws andremove the TPS from the throttle body.

3.80b Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)(arrow) - V6 engines

85 When installing the TPS, be sure to alignthe socket locating tangs on the TPS with thethrottle shaft in the throttle body (see illus-tration). When the TPS is installed correctly,it must be rotated slightly clockwise to alignthe screw holes. After installing the screws,the throttle valve should be fully closed. If it'sopen, remove the TPS and reposition it onthe shaft tangs.86 Tighten the TPS screws securely.87 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal.

Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) -manual transaxles onlyGeneral descriptionRefer to illustration 3.8888 The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) islocated on the transaxle near the left enginemount (see illustration). This sensor is a per-manent magnetic variable reluctance sensorthat produces a pulsing voltage whenevervehicle speed is over 3 mph. These pulsesare translated by the PCM to determine vehi-cle speed, distance traveled and, on modelsequipped with cruise control, it governs thespeed control servo.

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

3.85 When installing the TPS onto the throttle body, make surethe socket tangs are on the proper side of the throttle valve shaftblade (arrows). When installed correctly, the TPS must be rotated

slightly clockwise to align the screw holes

3.88 The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is located on the transaxlenear the left engine mount - manual transaxles only

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems 6-13

4.3 Disconnecting one of the twoPowertrain Control Module (PCM)

40-pin connectors4.4 PCM mounting screws

CheckNote: To backprobe an electrical connector,use pins or paper clips inserted into the rearof the connector (or wire) to facilitate meterattachment. Be careful not to short theprobes during this process.89 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands.90 First, check the VSS sensor supply volt-age; place the transaxle in Neutral and turnthe ignition key ON (engine OFF). Using avoltmeter, backprobe the orange/white wire(1995 models) or orange wire (all other mod-els) (positive) and ground the other probe tothe transaxle. There should be approximately8 volts present. If no voltage is indicated,check for a blown fuse and examine the wiresfor obvious damage. If the circuit looks OK,have the PCM checked out at your localdealer service department or other qualifiedrepair shop.91 Next check the VSS sensor output volt-age; backprobe the black/light blue wire(sensor ground) and the white/orange wire(VSS signal output - positive) at the sensorconnector. The voltage should fluctuatebetween 0 and 8 volts. If supply voltage isdetected but there is no signal voltage,replace the VSS sensor.

Replacement92 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands.93 Clean the area around the VSS to pre-vent contaminating the transaxle.94 Disconnect the electrical connectorfrom the VSS.95 Remove the retaining bolt and lift theVSS from the transaxle. Note: When remov-ing the VSS make sure the drive gear comesout along with the VSS. Should the drive gearfall into the transaxle, retrieve it and install itback onto the VSS.96 Installation is the reverse of removal.Tighten the VSS retaining bolt securely.

4 Powertrain Control Module(PCM) - check and replacement

Caution: The PCM is an Electro-Static Dis-charge (ESD) sensitive electronic device,meaning a static electricity discharge fromyour body could possibly damage internalelectrical components. Make sure to properlyground yourself and the PCM before handlingit. Avoid touching the electrical terminals ofthe PCM unless absolutely necessary.

CheckNote: Because of a Federally mandatedextended warranty which covers the OBD-llsystem components and because any owner-induced damage to the PCM, the sensorsand/or the control devices may void the war-ranty, it is not recommended to attempt diag-nosis of, or replace the PCM at home whilethe vehicle is under warranty.1 The PCM requires special test equip -

ment to verify its integrity. Therefore, if thePCM is suspected to be faulty, the vehicleshould be taken to your local dealer servicedepartment or other qualified repair shop fortesting or repair.

ReplacementRefer to illustrations 4.3 and 4.42 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).3 The PCM is mounted to a bracketbetween the air filter housing and the PowerDistribution Center (PDC). Disconnect both40-pin connectors from the PCM (see illus-tration).4 Remove the PCM mounting screws (seeillustration) and withdraw it from the vehicle.5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

5 Positive Crankcase Ventilation(PCV) system - generaldescription

1 The Positive Crankcase Ventilation(PCV) system reduces hydrocarbon exhaustemissions by scavenging crankcase vapors.This is accomplished by circulating fresh airfrom the air cleaner through the crankcase,where it mixes with blow-by gases and isthen re-routed through the PCV valve to theintake manifold to be burned in the combus -

tion process.2 The main components of the PCV sys-tem are the PCV valve and the vacuum hosesthat connect it to the manifold.3 To maintain idle quality, the PCV valverestricts the flow when the intake manifoldvacuum is high. If abnormal operating condi-tions (such as piston ring problems) arise, thesystem is designed to allow excessiveamounts of blow-by gases to flow backthrough the crankcase vent tube into the aircleaner to be consumed by normal combus-tion.4 Check and replacement of the PCVvalve is performed in Chapter 1.

6 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR)system - description, check andcomponent replacement

Note: If the EGR valve control solenoidbecomes disconnected or damaged, theelectrical signal will be lost and the EGR valvewill be open at all times during warm-up anddriving conditions. The symptoms will bepoor performance, rough idle and driveabilityproblems.

General descriptionRefer to illustrations 6.1a and 6.1b1 The EGR system reduces oxides ofnitrogen (NOx) by recirculating exhaust gases

6.1a Typical four-cylinderengine EGR valve, tube and

solenoid/transducerVALVE locations - 2.0L engine

shown, as viewed from rearof engine

6

6-14 Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

6.5 Checking the EGR valve (arrow) using a hand-operatedvacuum pump

6.1b EGR system component location - V6 engine

1 Solenoid/transducer 2 EGR valve 3 Tube

from the exhaust ports through the EGRvalve and back into the intake manifold foringestion into the engine which lowers thepeak flame temperature during combustion(see illustrations).2 The EGR system consists of the EGRvalve, the EGR solenoid/transducer assem-bly, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)and various related sensors. The PCM usesthe solenoid to control vacuum to the trans-ducer. The transducer is controlled byexhaust system back-pressure which in turnregulates the amount of vacuum applied tothe EGR valve. When exhaust system back-pressure becomes high enough, it fullycloses a bleed valve in the transducer. Thenthe PCM de-energizes the solenoid andallows vacuum to flow through the trans-ducer to operate the EGR valve. Turning thesolenoid ON-and-OFF provides the correctamount of exhaust gas to be introduced intothe engine for combustion.

CheckEGR valveRefer to illustration 6.53 Check the condition of all the EGR sys-tem hoses and tubes for leaks, cracks, kinksor hardening of the rubber hoses. Make sureall the hoses are intact before proceedingwith the EGR check.4 Check the Vehicle Emission ControlInformation (VECI) label (see Section 1) forthe correct EGR system hose routing.Reroute the hoses if necessary.5 Detach the vacuum hose from the top ofthe EGR valve and attach a hand-operatedvacuum pump to the valve (see illustration).6 Start the engine and warm it to its nor-mal operating temperature.7 Apply approximately 5 in-Hg of vacuumto the EGR valve with the engine at idlespeed. The idle speed should drop consider-ably or even stall as vacuum is applied. Thisindicates that the EGR system is operatingproperly. If the engine speed does not

change, this indicates a possible faulty EGRvalve, blocked or plugged EGR tube or pas-sages in the intake and exhaust manifoldsthat may be plugged with carbon build-up.Turn off the engine.8 Next, apply approximately 15 in-Hg ofvacuum to the EGR valve and see if the stemon the EGR valve moves. If the valve opensand closes (apply and release the vacuumpressure as required) the EGR valve is oper-ating correctly. The problem is either aplugged EGR tube or plugged passagewaysat the intake or exhaust manifold. Removethe EGR valve and clean the passages asrequired. Note: If the EGR valve is severelyplugged with carbon deposits, do not attemptto scrape them out, replace it with a new one.If the stem did not move, replace the EGRvalve.9 Apply approximately 15 in-Hg of vac-uum to the EGR valve and see if the vacuumpressure holds steady for at least three min-utes. If you are unable to pull a vacuum onthe EGR valve or the vacuum pressure does-n't remain constant, the diaphragm inside theEGR valve is faulty and the EGR valve andsolenoid/transducer assembly must bereplaced.

Solenoid/transducer assemblyRefer to illustration 6.1010 Disconnect the electrical connectorfrom the solenoid (see illustration). Detachthe vacuum hose connecting thesolenoid/transducer to the intake manifoldand attach a hand-held vacuum pump.11 Attempt to apply approximately 15 in-Hg of vacuum to the solenoid. No vacuumshould be produced. If vacuum develops,replace the EGR valve and solenoid/trans-ducer assembly as a unit.12 Next, connect one of the solenoid elec-trical terminals to the positive remote batteryterminal using a fused jumper wire. Usinganother jumper wire, connect the other termi-nal to a good ground (this will energize the

6.10 EGR solenoid/transducer (arrow) -V6 engine shown

solenoid - be careful not to short themtogether). With battery voltage applied to thesolenoid, try to pull approximately 15 in-Hg ofvacuum on the solenoid. Vacuum shoulddevelop and hold steady. If vacuum is notproduced or the pressure does not remainconstant, replace the EGR valve andsolenoid/transducer assembly as a unit. Re-attach the vacuum hose and the electricalconnector.13 Check the transducer diaphragm;detach the back-pressure hose from thetransducer and attach a hand-operated vac-uum pump. Apply approximately 10 in-Hg ofvacuum to the fitting. Vacuum should be pro-duced and hold steady. If vacuum does notdevelop or remain constant, replace the EGRvalve and solenoid/transducer assembly.

ReplacementNote: Because the EGR valve and sole-noid/transducer are a calibrated unit, theymust be replaced as an assembly.14 Disconnect the electrical connector andvacuum hoses from the solenoid/transducerassembly (see illustration 6.10).

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems 6-15

15 Remove the mounting bolts and with-draw the solenoid/transducer assembly fromit's mounting.16 On V6 engines, remove the Transmis-sion Control Module from it's mounting andposition it out of the way (see Chapter 7B ifnecessary). Note: Do not disconnect theelectrical connector from the TCM.17 Remove the EGR tube mounting boltsfrom the EGR valve and intake manifoldflanges.18 Remove the EGR valve mounting boltsand then remove the EGR valve and tube.19 Clean the gasket surfaces of the EGRvalve, tube and intake manifold. If the EGRvalve is to be re-installed, clean the gasketsurfaces and, if necessary, remove any car-bon build-up that may be present. If carbonbuild-up is excessive, replace the EGR valveand solenoid/transducer assembly.20 Loosely assemble the EGR valve andtube, using new gaskets. Then hand tightenthe all the bolts. Next, tighten the tube boltsto the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifi-cations. Finish by tightening the EGR valvebolts to the torque listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications.21 On V6 engines, place the TCM in it'sproper position and secure it with the mount-ing screws.22 Install the solenoid/transducer andtighten the mounting bolts.23 Connect the vacuum hoses and electri-cal connector to the solenoid/transducerassembly.

7 Evaporative emissions control(EVAP) system - description,check and componentreplacement

General description1 The function of the evaporative emis-sions control system is to prevent fuel vaporsfrom escaping the fuel system and beingreleased into the atmosphere. Vapors aretrapped inside the fuel tank until the pressureovercomes the pressure-relief/rollover valveand is then routed to a charcoal canister viahoses for temporary storage. The PowertrainControl Module (PCM) monitors the engineoperating parameters and then activates theEVAP purge control solenoid according to aprogrammed schedule which allows the fuelvapors from the canister to be drawn into theintake manifold and burned in the combus-tion process.2 The charcoal canister on 1995 through1997 models is mounted to a bracket behindthe right front bumper fascia adjacent to thewindshield washer reservoir. On 1998 andlater models, it's located on top of the fueltank. The canisters are maintenance-free andshould last the life of the vehicle.3 The most common symptom of a fault inthe evaporative emissions system is a strongfuel odor in the engine compartment or raw

fuel leaking from the canister. These indica-tions are usually more prevalent during hottemperatures. All systems except for thoseinstalled on 1995 models are pressurized bya Leak Detection Pump (LDP). The LDP on allvehicles is located next to the charcoal canis-ter. If normal system pressure cannot beachieved by the LDP, which indicates a leak,the PCM will store the appropriate fault codeand illuminate the CHECK ENGINE light onthe instrument panel. The most commoncause of system pressure loss is a loose orpoor sealing fuel filler cap. If the CHECKENGINE light is illuminated, check the fuelfiller cap first!4 The fuel filler cap is equipped with atwo-way pressure-vacuum relief valve as asafety device. If the pressure inside the tankexceeds approximately 1.5 to 2 psi, the reliefvalve vents the fuel vapors to the atmo-sphere. If the vacuum pressure inside thetank becomes greater than approximately0.14 psi, the relief valve allows fresh air to bedrawn into the tank.5 All models are equipped with tworollover valves, which are mounted on the topof the fuel tank. The rollover valves aredesigned to close the fuel vapor vent ports incase the vehicle should flip upside down. Therollover valves are not serviceable.6 1998 and later models are equippedwith the Onboard Refueling Vapor Recovery(ORVR) system which incorporates a one-way check valve in the fuel tank filler neckand a control valve on top of the fuel tank. Onmodels not equipped with ORVR, the fuelvapor displaced by the incoming fuel isallowed to vent to atmosphere during refuel-ing. The ORVR system uses the control valveto vent the displaced vapors to the charcoalcanister for storage. Vapor is absorbed in thecanister until the fuel flow stops, either fol-lowing fuel shut-off or by having the fuel risehigh enough to raise the float located in thecontrol valve which closes the valve. This fea-ture combined with the LDP, will not allow thevehicle to be refueled with the engine run-ning. If the vehicle will not accept fuel, cyclethe ignition key ON and OFF a few times toallow the EVAP purge control solenoid tovent the pressure inside the tank.

CheckNote: The evaporative control system, like allemission control systems, is protected by aFederally mandated extended warranty (5years or 50,000 miles at the time this manualwas written). The EVAP system probablywon't fail during the service life of the vehicle;however, if it does, the hoses, gas cap orcharcoal canister are usually to blame.7 If the CHECK ENGINE light is illumi-nated, check the gas cap first. A loose or badsealing gas cap will cause the LDP to registera leak in the system. Then check the systemhoses. A disconnected, damaged or missinghose is the next most likely cause of a mal-functioning EVAP system. Refer to the Vac-uum Hose Routing Diagram (located on the

7.12 On 1995 models, the EVAP systemcharcoal canister (arrow) is locatedbehind the right front bumper fascia

(removed for clarity)

under side of the hood) to determine whetherthe hoses are correctly routed and attached.Repair any damaged hoses or replace anymissing hoses as necessary. Note: Be sureto replace with approved fuel resistant hoses.Finally, check the purge control solenoid andLDP electrical connections and wires for cor-rosion and damage. Repair as necessary.8 Because of the special equipmentrequired, further diagnosis of the EVAP sys-tem must be performed by your local dealerservice department or other qualified repairshop.

Component replacementCharcoal canister

1995 modelsRefer to illustration 7.129 Remove the fuel filler cap to relieve thepressure inside the fuel tank.10 Loosen the right front wheel lug nuts.Raise the vehicle and place it securely onjackstands.11 Remove the right front wheel inner andlower splash shields.12 Label and disconnect the vacuumhoses, remove the nut and bolt securing thecanister to the support bracket and thenwithdraw it from the vehicle (see illustra-tion).13 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Charcoal canister and LeakDetection Pump1996 and 1997 modelsRefer to illustrations 7.17 and 7.1914 Remove the fuel filler cap to relieve thepressure inside the fuel tank.15 Remove the right headlight assembly(see Chapter 12).16 Label and disconnect the hoses fromthe LDP and charcoal canister.17 Remove the three nuts securing the

6

6-16 Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

EVAPORATIVECANISTER

NUTS

7.17 Remove the three nuts securing the canister to the LDPbracket (1996 and 1997 models)

7.19 The LDP bracket on 1996 and 1997 models is secured atthese four locations

7.23 1998 EVAP system components - as viewed from the top ofthe fuel tank

7.32 On 1995 to 1997 models, the purge control solenoid islocated in the engine compartment on the driver's side

shock tower

ORVR VALVE

canister to the LDP bracket (see illustration)and let the canister rest on the lower frontfascia.18 Disconnect the electrical connectorfrom the LDP.19 Remove the four bolts securing the LDPbracket to the vehicle (see illustration).20 Remove the LDP (with bracket attached)from the vehicle.21 Remove the charcoal canister.22 Installation is the reverse of removal.

1998 and later modelsRefer to illustration 7.2323 The charcoal canister and LDP on thesemodels mount to a bracket located on top ofthe fuel tank (see illustration).24 Remove the fuel filler cap to relieve thepressure inside the fuel tank.25 Perform the fuel pressure relief proce-dure (see Chapter 4).26 Drain and remove the fuel tank (seeChapter 4).27 Label and disconnect the vapor hosesconnected to the canister.28 Withdraw the push-pin securing the

canister to the bracket and remove it from thefuel tank.29 Remove the bracket and LDP, thenremove the LDP from the bracket.30 Since they are accessible, check thecondition of all EVAP system hoses and elec-trical connections at this time andrepair/replace as necessary.31 Installation is the reverse of removal.Tighten the fuel tank strap bolts to the torqueli sted in the Chapter 4 Specifications.

Canister purge control solenoidRefer to illustrations 7.32 and 7.33Note: The EVAP purge control solenoid mustbe installed with the solenoid electrical con-nector UP in order to operate properly.32 On 1995 to 1997 models, the purgecontrol solenoid is mounted on the left(driver's) side of the engine compartment onthe shock tower near the brake master cylin-der (see illustration).33 On 1998 and later models, the purgecontrol solenoid is mounted on the right (pas-senger) side of the engine compartment onthe fender panel near the windshield washer

7.33 On 1998 and later models, the purgecontrol solenoid (arrow) is located in theengine compartment near the windshield

washer fluid reservoir

fluid reservoir (see illustration).34 Remove the fuel filler cap to relieve thepressure inside the fuel tank.35 On 1995 to 1997 models, if equipped,

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems 6-17

remove the cruise control servo from it'smounting and position it out of the way.36 Label and disconnect the purge controlsolenoid vacuum hoses and electrical con-nector.37 Unscrew the mounting bolt and removethe solenoid and bracket assembly.38 Installation is the reverse of removal.

8 Catalytic converter system -description, check andreplacement

Note: Because of a Federally mandatedextended warranty which covers emissionsrelated components such as the catalyticconverter, check with a dealer service depart-ment before replacing the converter at yourown expense.

General descriptionRefer to illustration 8.11 The catalytic converter (see illustration)is an emission control device added to theexhaust system to reduce pollutants from theexhaust gas stream. There are two types ofconverters. The conventional oxidation cata-lyst reduces the levels of hydrocarbon (HC)and carbon monoxide (CO). The three-waycatalyst lowers the levels of oxides of nitro-gen (NOx) as well as hydrocarbons (HC) and

carbon monoxide (CO). Caution: Becausethe two types of catalytic converters areextremely similar looking, make sure you arepurchasing the correct part for your particularvehicle.

Check2 The test equipment for a catalytic con-verter is very expensive and highly sophisti-cated. If you suspect that the converter onyour vehicle is malfunctioning, take it to adealer or authorized emissions inspectionfacility for diagnosis and repair.3 Whenever the vehicle is raised for ser-vicing of underbody components, check theconverter for leaks, corrosion, dents andother damage. Check the welds/flange boltsthat attach the front and rear ends of the con-verter to the exhaust system. If damage isdiscovered, the converter should bereplaced.4 Although catalytic converters don'toften fail, they can become plugged. Theeasiest way to check for a restricted con-verter is to use a vacuum gauge to diagnosethe effect of a blocked exhaust based onintake vacuum.

a) Open the throttle until the engine speedis about 2000 rpm.

b) Release the throttle quickly.c) If there is no restriction, the gauge will

quickly drop to not more than 2 in-Hg ormore above its normal reading.

8.1 Catalytic converter (arrow)

d) If the gauge does not show 5 in-Hg ormore above its normal reading, or seemsto momentarily hover around its highestreading for a moment before it returns,the exhaust system, or the converter, isplugged (or an exhaust pipe is bent ordented, or the core inside the mufflerhas shifted).

Replacement5 Refer to the exhaust system removaland installation Section in Chapter 4.

6-18 Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

Notes

Chapter 7 Part AManual transaxleContents

SectionBack-up light switch - check and replacement.....................................4Driveaxle oil seal replacement...............................................................5General information................................................................................1Manual transaxle lubricant level check .............................See Chapter 1Manual transaxle lubricant change...................................See Chapter 1

SectionManual transaxle overhaul - general information ...................................7Manual transaxle - removal and installation .......................................... 6Shift cables - removal, installation and adjustment...............................2Shift lever assembly - removal and installation..................................... 3Vehicle speed sensor - check and replacement ...............See Chapter 6

Specifications

GeneralTransaxle typeFluid type and capacity...........................................................................

Torque specificationsBack-up light switch ................................................................................Clutch housing-to-engine bolts ...............................................................Clutch housing lower cover bolts............................................................Crossover cable adjusting bolt ................................................................Drain plug................................................................................................Lateral strut fasteners ..............................................................................Shift cable bracket-to-transaxle bolts.....................................................

NV T350 (A-578)See Chapter 1

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)1870105 in-lbs70 in-lbs67 in-lbs40250 in-lbs

1 General information

The vehicles covered by this manual areequipped with either the NV T350 (A-578) 5-speed manual or the 41TE 4-speed auto-matic transaxle. Information on the manualtransaxle is included in this part of Chapter 7.Service procedures for the automatictransaxle are contained in Chapter 7, Part B.

Both the manual transaxle and the dif-ferential are housed in a compact, light-weight, two-piece aluminum alloy housing.

The Sections in this Chapter tell youhow to replace and adjust those parts of thetransaxle that can be serviced at home, aswell as how to remove and install thetransaxle itself. Because of the complexity ofthe transaxle rotating machinery, the difficultyof obtaining replacement parts and the spe-cial tools required to service those parts, wedon't recommend repairing the transaxle athome. Before assuming that the transaxle isfaulty, read through the Troubleshooting Sec-tion at the beginning of this manual for stepsto help pin-point the problem. For serviceand repairs outside the scope of this manual,take the vehicle to a dealer service depart-ment or other qualified transmission repairshop.

2 Shift cables - removal,installation and adjustment

Warning: These vehicles are equipped withair bags. Always disable the airbag systembefore working in the vicinity of the impactsensors, steering column or instrument panelto avoid the possibility of accidental deploy-ment of the airbag(s), which could cause per-sonal injury (see Chapter 12).

RemovalRefer to illustrations 2.5a, 2.5b, 2.6, 2.9a,2.9b and 2.101 In the event of hard shifting, disconnectboth cables at the transaxle and operate theshifter. If the shift lever moves smoothlythrough all positions with the cables discon-nected, the crossover cable should beadjusted as described at the end of this Sec-tion. To remove and install the shift cables,perform the following.2 Raise the hood and place a blanket overthe left (driver's) fender to protect it.3 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).4 Remove the air cleaner assembly (seeChapter 4).

5 Using two flat blade screwdrivers, care-fully pry the selector cable and crossovercable from the select lever (see illustra-tions). Caution: To avoid damaging the cableisolator bushings, pry up with equal force onboth sides of the shift cable end. Discard thecable retaining clips.

2.5a To avoid damaging the cablebushings, use two flat blade screwdrivers

to evenly pry the selector cable .. .

7A

7A-2 Chapter 7 Part A Manual transaxle

2.5b ... and the crossover cable fromtheir levers

6 Remove the cable retaining clips on thetransaxle and remove the cables from thebracket (see illustration). Discard the retain-ing clips.7 Working inside the vehicle, remove thecenter console (see Chapter 11).8 Raise the front of the vehicle and place it

2.9b ... then remove the bolts from underthe vehicle and separate the

plate/grommet from the floorpan

2.6 Use pliers to remove the shift cableretaining clips (arrow) securing the cablesto the bracket - the selector cable clip ishidden behind the EGR valve in this view

securely on jackstands.9 Remove the shifter cable grommet plateand pry the grommet from the floorpan (seeillustrations).10 Remove the cable retaining clips at theshifter and detach the cables from thebracket (see illustration). Discard the retain-ing clips.11 Using two flat blade screwdrivers, care-fully pry the selector cable and the crossovercable from the shift lever assembly. Discardthe cable retaining clips. Caution: To avoiddamaging the cable isolator bushings, pry upwith equal force on both sides of the shiftcable end.12 Detach both cables from the supportclips on the tunnel above the catalytic con-verter.13 Remove the cable assembly from thevehicle.

InstallationRefer to illustrations 2.18 and 2.1914 Installation is the reverse of removal.Install new cable retaining clips at all loca-tions and make sure they are properly seated

2.9a Remove the shift cable floorpangrommet mounting nuts from inside

the vehicle .. .

in the cable grooves.15 Before installing the air cleaner assem-bly and center console, adjust the crossovercable (see below).

AdjustmentNote: Only the crossover cable can beadjusted. There is no adjustment for theselector cable.16 Remove the air cleaner assembly (seeChapter 4).17 Working inside the vehicle, remove thecenter console (see Chapter 11).18 Loosen the crossover cable adjustingbolt located at the shifter end of the cable(see illustration).19 Working in the engine compartment,position the crossover lever on the transaxleso the hole in the crossover lever aligns withthe hole in the transaxle raised boss. Inserta 1/4 inch drill bit through the crossover leverand into the raised boss (see illustration).Make sure the drill bit penetrates into thetransaxle hole at least 1/2 inch.20 Place the gear shift lever in the neutralposition (allow the shifter to self-center in it'sproper location).21 Without moving the gear shift lever from

2.10 Use needle-nose pliers to remove the cable retaining clipsfrom the shift lever assembly brackets 2.18 Loosen the crossover cable adjusting bolt

Chapter 7 Part A Manual transaxle 7A-3

2.19 Align the hole in the crossover lever with the hole in thetransaxle raised boss. Insert a 1/4-inch drill bit (arrow) through

the lever and into the raised boss at least 1/2-inch

3A Remove all four of the shift lever assembly mounting nuts(arrows) (only the two forward nuts are visible in this view), then

remove the shift lever assembly

its neutral position, tighten the crossovercable adjusting bolt to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications.22 Remove the 1/4 inch drill bit securingthe crossover lever to the transaxle.23 Shift the transaxle into all gear positionsto make sure the cable is functioning prop-erly. Readjust if necessary.24 Install the center console (see Chap-ter 11).25 Install the air cleaner assembly (seeChapter 4).

3 Shift lever assembly - removaland installation

Warning: These vehicles are equipped withair bags. Always disable the airbag systembefore working in the vicinity of the impactsensors, steering column or instrument panelto avoid the possibility of accidental deploy-ment of the airbag(s), which could cause per-sonal injury (see Chapter 12).

RemovalRefer to illustration 3.41 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Remove the center console (see Chap-ter 11).3 Disconnect the shift cables from theshift lever assembly (see Section 2).4 Remove the shift lever bracket nuts (seeillustration) and remove the shift leverassembly.

Installation5 Install the shift lever assembly andtighten the nuts securely.6 Attach the shift cables to the shift leverassembly and adjust the crossover cable (seeSection 2).7 Install the center console (see Chap-ter 11).8 Attach the negative battery cable to theground stud on the left shock tower.

4 Back-up light switch - check andreplacement

CheckRefer to illustration 4.11 The back-up light switch (see illustra-tion) is located on top of the transaxle, nearthe left (driver's side) front corner of the hous-ing. However, access is gained from underthe vehicle.2 Turn the ignition key to the ON positionand move the gear shift lever to the Reverseposition. The back-up lights should illumi-nate.3 If the back-up lights don't come on, firstverify that each light bulb is in working condi-tion. If the bulbs are OK, check the back-upli ght fuse located in the fuse box at the end ofthe instrument panel on the driver's side (seeChapter 12).If the fuse has blown, replace it. If it blows

again, look for a short in the back-up light cir-cuit.4 If the fuse is okay, raise the vehicle andsupport it securely on jackstands. Turn theignition switch ON (engine off) and make surethe gear shift lever is in reverse. Using a testli ght or voltmeter, verify there is voltage pre-sent at the back-up light switch. If there's novoltage to the switch, look for an open orshort in the power wire to the switch. Repairas necessary.5 If the back-up lights still don't illuminate,unplug the electrical connector from theback-up light switch and, using an ohmme-ter, verify that there is continuity between theswitch terminals (with gear shift lever inreverse), i.e. when the switch is closed. Ifcontinuity is not detected, replace the back-up light switch.6 If there is continuity between the switchterminals, (it opens and closes the circuit rela-tive to the gear shift position), but the back-upli ghts don't come on when the gear shift leveris in the reverse position, check the wiringbetween the switch and the back-up lights foran open circuit and repair as necessary.

4.1 The back-up light switch is located ontop of the transaxle case, near the left

(driver's side) front corner

Replacement7 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands.8 Detach the electrical connector from theback-up light switch and unscrew the switchfrom the transaxle.9 Wrap the threads of the replacementswitch with Teflon tape, or equivalent, installthe switch and tighten it to the torque listed inthis Chapter's Specifications.10 Attach the switch electrical connectorand lower the vehicle.11 Check the operation of the back-uplights to be sure the switch is working cor-rectly.

5 Driveaxle oil seal replacement

Refer to illustrations 5.4 and 5.61 Oil leaks frequently occur at thedriveaxle seals. Replacing these seals is rela-tively easy, since you don't have to removethe transaxle to access them.2 The driveaxle oil seals are located in thesides of the transaxle, where the splined

7A

7A-4 Chapter 7 Part A Manual transaxle

5.6 Using a seal driver, large section ofpipe or a large deep socket as a drift,

drive the new seal squarely into the boreand make sure that it's completely seated

6.8 Remove the intake manifoldsupport bracket

6.9 Remove the upper clutch housingfasteners (arrows)

6.10 The Vehicle Speed Sensor is locatedon the transaxle next to the rear

engine mount

5.4 Using a large screwdriver or prybar,carefully pry the oil seal out of the

transaxle (if you can't remove the oil sealwith a screwdriver or prybar, you may

need to obtain a special seal removal tool,available at most auto parts stores, to do

the job)

inner ends of the driveaxles mate with the dif-ferential side gears. If you suspect that one ofthese seals is leaking, raise the vehicle andsupport it securely on jackstands. If a seal isin fact leaking, you'll see a trail of wet lubri-cant on the side of the transaxle below theseal.3 Remove the driveaxle (see Chapter 8).4 Using a large screwdriver or prybar,carefully pry the oil seal out of the transaxle(see illustration).5 If you can't remove the oil seal with ascrewdriver or pry bar, you may need toobtain a special seal removal tool (availableat most auto parts stores) to do the job.6 Using a seal driver, large section of pipeor a large deep socket as a drift, install thenew oil seal (see illustration). Drive it into thebore squarely and make sure that it's com-pletely seated. Lubricate the driveaxle oilseal, tripod joint splines and sealing surfacewith the appropriate transmission fluid (seeChapter 1).7 Install the driveaxle (see Chapter 8). Becareful not to damage the lip of the new sealduring installation.

6 Manual transaxle - removal andinstallation

Note 1: This procedure requires the removalof all engine mounts except for the right sideengine mount. If the vehicle must be movedafter the transaxle has been removed, makesure the engine is supported at all times andthe appropriate sized bolts and nuts areinstalled in the front wheel hub/bearings (referto Chapter 8).Note 2: There are four different gear ratiosavailable with this transaxle. If you are goingto replace this transaxle or obtain a rebuiltunit, check the metal identification tag

mounted to the rear cover before purchasinga new or rebuilt transaxle to ensure you'regetting the correct gear ratio for your particu-lar application.

RemovalRefer to illustrations 6.8, 6.9, 6.10, 6.16, 6.17,6.18, 6.19, 6.28 and 6.311 Open the hood and place protectivecovers on the front fenders and cowl. Specialfender covers are available, but an old bed-spread or blankets will also work.2 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).3 Remove the air cleaner assembly (seeChapter 4).4 Disconnect the clutch cable from therelease lever (see Chapter 8).5 Disconnect the shift cables from thetransaxle and detach the cable bracket (withcables attached) from the transaxle (see Sec-tion 2). Position the cables out of the way.6 Detach the accelerator cable and cruisecontrol cable (if equipped) from the throttle

lever (see Chapter 4 if necessary).7 Detach the accelerator/cruise controlcable bracket from the throttle body (withcables attached) and position it out of theway.8 Remove the intake manifold supportbracket (see illustration).9 Remove the upper clutch housing bolts(see illustration).10 Disconnect the electrical connectorsfrom the vehicle speed sensor (see illustra-tion) and back-up light switch (see illustra-tion 4.1).11 Loosen the driveaxle hub nuts (seeChapter 8) and front wheel lug nuts. Raise thevehicle and place it securely on jackstands.Remove both front wheels.12 Drain the transaxle fluid (see Chapter 1).13 Remove the driveaxles (see Chapter 8).14 Remove the starter motor (see Chap-ter 5).15 Remove the splash shield/battery coverfrom the left front wheel well (see Chapter 5).Extract the push-in fasteners and remove thetransaxle splash shield.16 On 1998 models, remove the oil pan-to-

Chapter 7 Part A Manual transaxle 7A-5

6.16 Oil pan-to-transaxle structural collarassembly details - 1998 models only

transaxle structural collar and transaxleclutch housing lower cover (see illustration).17 On all models except 1998, remove thetransaxle lateral strut and clutch housinglower cover (see illustration).18 If the modular clutch assembly is to bereinstalled, match-mark the clutch assemblyto the driveplate (see illustration).19 Remove the four modular clutch assem-bly-to-driveplate bolts (see illustration). Togain access to each bolt, rotate the engineclockwise (ONLY) as viewed from the drive-belt end of the engine using the crankshaftdamper/pulley bolt. Remove all four bolts anddiscard them. Use a screwdriver placed inthe ring gear of the driveplate to keep thecrankshaft from turning during removal of thebolts.20 After removing the clutch modulemounting bolts, push the modular clutchassembly into the transaxle clutch housing asfar as possible.21 Remove any exhaust components

6.17 Remove the lateral strut (lowerarrow) and clutch housing lower cover(upper arrow) - all except 1998 models

which will interfere with transaxle removal(see Chapter 4).22 Remove any remaining chassis or sus-pension components which will interfere withtransaxle removal. Caution: If the front sus-pension crossmember has to be repositionedto facilitate transaxle removal, it must bematch-marked to the body and frame (seeChapter 10) to maintain proper wheel align-ment at reassembly.23 Support the engine from above with ahoist, or place a floor jack under the oil pan.Place a wood block on the jack head tospread the load on the oil pan.24 Remove the left engine mountingbracket from the transaxle (see Chapter 2A).25 Remove the front engine mountingbracket and strut (see Chapter 2A).26 Remove the rear engine mountingbracket (see Chapter 2A).27 Remove the engine support module (1995through 1997 models) or front and rear lowerengine mounts (1998 and later models) asapplicable (see Chapter 2A). Note: The enginesupport module is attached to the lower radia-tor support. When removing the engine supportmodule, the radiator and air conditioning con-denser (if equipped) must be supported.

6.18 Match-mark the modular clutchassembly to the driveplate

6.19 Rotate the engine clockwise usingthe crankshaft damper/pulley bolt and

remove the four flywheel-to-clutchassembly bolts

28 Support the transaxle with a transmis-sion jack, if available, or use a floor jack (seeillustration). Secure the transaxle to the jackusing straps or chains so it doesn't fall offduring removal.29 Remove the lower transaxle clutchhousing-to-engine bolts. Make sure all clutch

7A

6.28 Place a jack under the transaxle (transmission jack shown)and secure the transaxle to the jack using chains or straps

6.31 While removing the transaxle from the engine, make sure tokeep it level so the modular clutch assembly doesn't fall off the

transaxle input shaft

7A-6 Chapter 7 Part A Manual transaxle

housing-to-engine bolts are removed.30 Make a final check that all wires, hosesand brackets have been disconnected fromthe transaxle, then with the engine properlysupported, separate the transaxle from theengine.31 Carefully lower the transaxle andremove it from under the vehicle (see illus-tration). Make sure you keep the transaxlelevel as you maneuver it or the modularclutch assembly may fall out. Note: Rein-stalling the clutch housing lower cover afterthe transaxle clears the flywheel will help holdthe clutch assembly in place.32 Remove the modular clutch assemblyfrom the transaxle. Handle it carefully toavoid contaminating the friction surfaces.Inspect it for excessive wear or contamina-tion (see Chapter 8). In most cases, becauseof the time and labor involved in gainingaccess to the clutch assembly, it should bereplaced whenever the transaxle is removedor replaced unless its in new or near-perfectcondition.33 Check the crankshaft rear main seal forevidence of leakage. If replacement is neces-sary, refer to Chapter 2A.

Installation34 Install the modular clutch assembly ontothe transaxle input shaft. Handle it carefullyto avoid contaminating the friction surfaces.35 With the transaxle secured to the jack,raise it into position and carefully slide it for-ward until the clutch housing seats againstthe engine. Do not use excessive force toinstall the transaxle - if it doesn't slide intoplace easily, readjust the angle of thetransaxle and try again. Make sure you keepthe transaxle level as you maneuver it or themodular clutch assembly may fall out. Do notforce it or use the clutch housing bolts to pullit together. Make sure the dowel pins on theengine are aligned with their respective holesin the transaxle. If you are experiencing diffi-culty, solicit the aid of an assistant.37 Install the clutch housing-to-enginebolts with brackets and clamps whererequired and tighten them to the torque listedin this Chapter's Specifications.38 Install the engine support module (1995through 1997 models) or front and rear lowerengine mounts (1998 and later models) asapplicable (see Chapter 2A).39 Install the rear engine mounting bracketto the transaxle and secure it to the enginesupport module (1995 through 1997 models)or rear lower engine mount (1998 and latermodels) as applicable (see Chapter 2A).Tighten the bracket-to-engine bolts (ONLY)to the torque listed in the Specification Sec-tion of Chapter 2A. Leave the through-boltloose for now.40 Install the front engine mounting bracketand strut (see Chapter 2A). Secure thebracket to the engine support module (1995through 1997 models) or front lower enginemount (1998 models) as applicable (seeChapter 2A). Tighten the mounting bracket

and strut-to-engineltransaxle bolts (ONLY) tothe torque listed in the Specification Sectionof Chapter 2A. Leave the through-bolt loosefor now.41 Install the left engine mounting bracketonto the transaxle and secure it to the sup-port assembly on the frame rail (see Chap-ter 2A). Tighten the bolts to the torque listedin the Specification Section of Chapter 2A.42 Tighten the front and rear engine mountthrough-bolts to the torque listed in theSpecification Section in Chapter 2A.43 Remove the engine and transaxle sup-port jacks.44 If you're reinstalling the old modularclutch assembly, align the driveplate-to-modu-lar clutch assembly match-marks applied inStep 18. Install four new driveplate-to-modularclutch bolts. DO NOT install the old bolts - theyare one-time use only. To gain access to eachbolt hole, rotate the engine clockwise (ONLY)as viewed from the drivebelt end of the engineusing the crankshaft damper/pulley bolt.Tighten the driveplate-to-modular clutchassembly bolts in a criss-cross pattern to thetorque listed in the Specification Section ofChapter 8. Use a screwdriver placed in the ringgear of the driveplate to keep the crankshaftfrom turning during installation of the bolts.45 Install the clutch housing lower cover.Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications.46 On all models except 1998 and later,install the lateral strut bracket (see illustra-tion 6.17). Tighten the bolts to the torqueli sted in this Chapter's Specifications.47 On 1998 models, install the oil pan-to-transaxle structural collar. Tighten the boltsto the torque listed in the Specification Sec-tion of Chapter 2A.48 Attach the electrical connectors to thevehicle speed sensor and back-up lightswitch.49 Install the transaxle splash shield andsecure it with the push-in fasteners. Installthe splash shield/battery cover into the leftfront wheel well (see Chapter 5).50 Install the starter motor (see Chapter 5).Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in theSpecification Section of Chapter 5.51 Install any chassis or suspension com-ponents that were removed. Caution: If thefront suspension crossmember was reposi-tioned to facilitate transaxle removal, it mustbe aligned with the previously applied match-marks on the body and frame (see Chap-ter 10) to maintain proper wheel alignment.52 Install any exhaust components thatwere removed (see Chapter 4).53 Install the driveaxles, hub nuts and frontwheels (see Chapter 8).54 Install the intake manifold supportbracket (see illustration 6.8).55 Install the accelerator and cruise control(if equipped) cable bracket onto the throttlebody and tighten the bolts securely.56 Install the accelerator and cruise control(if equipped) cable ends into the throttlelever.57 Install the shift cables and mounting

bracket onto the transaxle (see Section 2).Tighten the shift cable bracket bolts to the tothe torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica-tions.58 Attach the clutch cable onto the clutchrelease lever and install the inspection cover(see Chapter 8).59 Attach the negative battery cable to theground stud on the left shock tower.60 Adjust the shift crossover cable (seeSection 2).61 Install the air cleaner assembly (seeChapter 4).62 Fill the transaxle with the appropriatefluid (see Chapter 1). Road test the vehicleand check for proper transaxle operation andfluid leaks. Shutoff the engine and recheckthe transaxle fluid level.

7 Manual transaxle overhaul -general information

1 Overhauling a manual transaxle is a diffi-cult job for the do-it-yourselfer. It involves thedisassembly and reassembly of many smallcomponents. Numerous clearances must beprecisely measured and, if necessary,changed with select fit spacers and snap-rings. As a result, if transaxle problems arise,it can be removed and installed by a compe-tent do-it-yourselfer, but overhaul should beleft to a dealer service department or otherqualified transmission repair shop. Rebuilttransaxles may be available - check with yourdealer parts department or local auto partsstores. At any rate, the time and moneyinvolved in an overhaul is almost sure toexceed the cost of a rebuilt unit.2 Nevertheless, it's not impossible for aninexperienced mechanic to rebuild a trans-axle if the special tools are available and thejob is done in a deliberate step-by-step man-ner so nothing is overlooked.3 The tools necessary for an overhaulinclude internal and external snap-ring pliers.a bearing puller, a slide hammer, a set of pinpunches, a dial indicator and possibly ahydraulic press. In addition, a large, sturdyworkbench and a vise or transaxle stand willbe required.4 During disassembly of the transaxle,make careful notes of how each piece comesoff, where it fits in relation to other pieces andwhat holds it in place - actually noting howthey are installed when you remove the partswill make it much easier to put it backtogether. If necessary take photographs dur-ing disassembly. Note: The output shaft can-not be disassembled.5 Before taking the transaxle apart forrepair, it will help if you have some idea whatarea of the transaxle is malfunctioning. Cer-tain problems can be closely tied to specificareas in the transaxle, which can make com-ponent examination and replacement easier.Refer to the Troubleshooting Section at thebeginning of this manual for informationregarding possible sources of trouble.

Chapter 7 Part BAutomatic transaxleContents

SectionAutomatic transaxle - removal and installation ......................................9Automatic transaxle fluid and filter change...................... See Chapter 1Automatic transaxle fluid level check ............................... See Chapter 1Diagnosis - general ................................................................................ 2Oil seal - replacement............................................................................3General information................................................................................1Park/Neutral/Back-up light switch - check and replacement ................6

SectionShift cable - removal, installation and adjustment.................................4Gearshift assembly - replacement .........................................................5Shifter/ignition interlock system - description, check

and cable replacement..................................................................... 7Transaxle mount................................................... See Chapter 2A or 2BTransmission Control Module - removal and installation...................... 8

Specifications

GeneralTransaxle type.........................................................................................Fluid type and capacity...........................................................................

Torque specificationsCooler line fittings....................................................................................Bellhousing lower cover bolts ..................................................................Driveplate-to-torque converter bolts.......................................................Park/Neutral/Back-up light switch...........................................................Transaxle bellhousing-to-engine bolts ....................................................

41TESee Chapter 1

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)105 in-lbs105 in-lbs552570 7B

1 General information

The vehicles covered by this manual areequipped with either the NV T350 (A-578) 5-speed manual or the 41TE 4-speed auto-matic transaxle. Information on the automatictransaxle is included in this part of Chapter 7.Service procedures for the manual transaxleare contained in Chapter 7, Part B.

The automatic transaxle and the differ-ential are housed in a compact, lightweight,two-piece aluminum alloy housing. Operationof the transaxle is controlled electronically bythe Transmission Control Module (TCM)which is the "brain" of the transaxle. TheTCM monitors engine and transaxle operat-ing parameters through numerous sensorsand then generates output signals to variousrelays and solenoids to regulate hydraulic

pressures, optimize driveability, provide effi-cient torque management and maintain maxi-mum fuel economy. The TCM is part of theOn-Board Diagnostic system OBD-II. Formore information see Chapter 6. Note: If thepower has been interrupted (battery discon-nected or has failed) the transaxle will shiftroughly for the first few gear progressionswhile the TCM relearns the engine andtransaxle parameters.

The Sections in this Chapter instruct youon how to replace and adjust those parts ofthe transaxle that can be easily serviced athome, as well as how to remove and installthe transaxle itself. Because of the complex-ity of the transaxle rotating machinery, elec-tronic operating system and the special toolsrequired to diagnose and service it properly,we don't recommend repairing the transaxleat home. For service and repairs outside the

scope of this manual, take the vehicle to adealer service department or other qualifiedtransmission repair shop.

Some models came equipped with adriver-interactive option called "Autostick."This system allows the transaxle to be shiftedmanually. When the shift lever is placed in theAutostick position, the transaxle will remain inwhatever gear it was using before Autostickwas activated. Moving the shift lever to theleft (towards the driver) causes the transaxleto downshift and moving it to the right(towards the passenger seat) causes it toupshift. The instrument cluster displays thegear you have selected by illuminating a boxaround the gear currently engaged. In theAutostick mode the vehicle can be drivenaway in 1st, 2nd or 3rd gear. The speed(cruise) control system can be used while inthe Autostick mode as long as the shift lever

7B-2 Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

is in 3rd or 4th gear. However, when the shiftlever is moved to 2nd gear the speed controlsystem is disengaged. Shifting into Overdrivecancels the Autostick mode and the TCMresumes controlling transaxle operation.

2 Diagnosis - general

1 Automatic transaxle malfunctions maybe caused by five general conditions:

a) Poor engine performanceb) Improper adjustmentsc) Hydraulic malfunctionsd) Mechanical malfunctionse) Malfunctions in the computer or its sig-

nal network2 Diagnosis of these problems shouldalways begin with a check of the easilyrepaired items: fluid level and condition (seeChapter 1), shift cable adjustment and shiftlever installation. Next, perform a road test todetermine if the problem has been correctedor if more diagnosis is necessary. If the prob-lem persists after the preliminary tests andcorrections are completed, additional diagno-sis should be performed by a dealer servicedepartment or other qualified transmissionrepair shop. Refer to the Troubleshooting sec-tion at the front of this manual for informationon symptoms of transaxle problems.

Preliminary checks3 Drive the vehicle to warm the transaxleto normal operating temperature.4 Check the fluid level as described inChapter 1:

a) If the fluid level is unusually low, addenough fluid to bring the level within thedesignated area of the dipstick, thencheck for external leaks (see following).

b) If the fluid level is abnormally high, drainoff the excess, then check the drainedfluid for contamination by coolant. Thepresence of engine coolant in the auto-matic transmission fluid indicates that afailure has occurred in the internal radia-tor oil cooler walls that separate thecoolant from the transmission fluid (seeChapter 3).

c) If the fluid is foaming, drain it and refillthe transaxle, then check for coolant inthe fluid, or a high fluid level.

5 Check the engine idle speed. Note: Ifthe engine is malfunctioning, do not proceedwith the preliminary checks until it has beenrepaired and runs normally.6 Check and adjust the shift cable, if nec-essary (see Section 4).7 If hard shifting is experienced, inspectthe shift cable under the center console andat the manual lever on the transaxle (see Sec-tion 4).

Fluid leak diagnosis8 Most fluid leaks are easy to locate visu-ally. Repair usually consists of replacing aseal or gasket. If a leak is difficult to find, thefollowing procedure may help.

9 Identify the fluid. Make sure it's trans-mission fluid and not engine oil or brake fluid(automatic transmission fluid is a deep redcolor).10 Try to pinpoint the source of the leak.Drive the vehicle several miles, then park itover a large sheet of cardboard. After aminute or two, you should be able to locatethe leak by determining the source of the fluiddripping onto the cardboard.11 Make a careful visual inspection of thesuspected component and the area immedi-ately around it. Pay particular attention togasket mating surfaces. A mirror is oftenhelpful for finding leaks in areas that are hardto see.12 If the leak still cannot be found, cleanthe suspected area thoroughly with adegreaser or solvent, then dry it thoroughly.13 Drive the vehicle for several miles at nor-mal operating temperature and varyingspeeds. After driving the vehicle, visuallyinspect the suspected component again.14 Once the leak has been located, thecause must be determined before it can beproperly repaired. If a gasket is replaced butthe sealing flange is bent, the new gasket willnot stop the leak. The bent flange must bestraightened.15 Before attempting to repair a leak,check to make sure that the following condi-tions are corrected or they may causeanother leak. Note: Some of the followingconditions cannot be fixed without highlyspecialized tools and expertise. Such prob-lems must be referred to a qualified transmis-sion shop or a dealer service department.

Gasket leaks16 Check the pan periodically. Make surethe bolts are tight, no bolts are missing, thegasket is in good condition and the pan is flat(dents in the pan may indicate damage to thevalve body inside).17 If the pan gasket is leaking, the fluidlevel or the fluid pressure may be too high,the vent may be plugged, the pan bolts maybe too tight, the pan sealing flange may bewarped, the sealing surface of the transaxlehousing may be damaged, the gasket may bedamaged or the transaxle casting may becracked or porous. If sealant instead of gas-ket material has been used to form a sealbetween the pan and the transaxle housing, itmay be the wrong type of sealant.

Seal leaks18 If a transaxle seal is leaking, the fluidlevel or pressure may be too high, the ventmay be plugged, the seal bore may be dam-aged, the seal itself may be damaged orimproperly installed, the surface of the shaftprotruding through the seal may be damagedor a loose bearing may be causing excessiveshaft movement.19 Make sure the dipstick tube seal is ingood condition and the tube is properlyseated. Periodically check the area aroundthe sensors for leakage. If transmission fluidis evident, check the seals for damage.

3.2 Oil pump seal removal tool

Case leaks20 If the case itself appears to be leaking.the casting is porous and will have to berepaired or replaced.21 Make sure the oil cooler hose fittings aretight and in good condition.

Fluid comes out vent pipe orfill tube22 If this condition occurs the possiblecauses are, the transaxle is overfilled, there iscoolant in the fluid, the case is porous, thedipstick is incorrect, the vent is plugged orthe drain-back holes are plugged.

3 Oil seal - replacement

Oil pump sealRefer to illustrations 3.2 and 3.3Note: The transaxle oil pump seal (front seal)can be replaced without removing the oilpump from the housing

1 To replace the oil pump seal thetransaxle and torque' converter must beremoved. Remove the transaxle from thevehicle and withdraw the torque converterfrom the bellhousing (see Section 9).2 If available, use the factory sealremovaltool (# C-3981). Thread the seal removerintothe seal, then while holding the outer part o'the tool, tighten the center bolt to pull theseal from its bore (see illustration). If the fac-tory tool is not available, use a hook-type searemoval tool or a screwdriver to carefully prythe seal out. Be extremely careful not to dam-age the input shaft or the seal bore.3 If available, use the factory installationtools (# C-4193 installer and C-4171 handleto install the oil pump seal (see illustration)Apply a light coating of the appropriate trans-mission fluid (see Chapter 1) to the seal lipand input shaft outer diameter. Place the seain the bore (lip side facing in), then using ahammer drive the seal in squarely until it bot-toms. If the factory tools are not availablestart the seal into the bore evenly byhandthen using an appropriate sized section o'pipe placed over the seal, drive it into place.4 Carefully place the torqueconverter onto the transaxle input shaft and install the

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle 7B-3

3.8 Remove the right side driveaxle oil seal using a screwdriver3.3 Oil pump seal installation tool

3.9 Installing the right side driveaxle oil seal using the factory tool 4.9 Transaxle shift cable end at manual shift lever (arrow "A") andattaching bracket (arrow "B")

transaxle (see Section 9).5 Check the transaxle fluid level (seeChapter 1), test drive the vehicle and checkfor leaks.

Driveaxle oil seal - right sideonlyRefer to illustrations 3.8 and 3.9Note: Replacing the left side driveaxle oil sealrequires the removal of the differential bear-ing retainer. This procedure is beyond thescope of the home mechanic and thereforenot included in this manual. If the left sidedriveaxle seal requires replacement, take thevehicle to your local dealer service depart-ment or other qualified transmission repairshop for service.6 The right side driveaxle oil seal islocated in the outer part of the extensionhousing which is bolted onto the right side ofthe transaxle.7 Remove the right driveaxle (see Chap-ter 8).8 Using a screwdriver, pry the driveaxle oilseal from its bore in the extension housing(see illustration).9 If available, use the factory installationtools (# L-4520 installer and C-4171 handle)to install the seal (see illustration). Apply ali ght coating of the appropriate transmissionfluid (see Chapter 1) to the seal lip and placethe seal into the bore (lip side facing in), thenusing a hammer drive the seal in squarely

until it bottoms. If the factory tools are notavailable, start the seal into the bore evenlyby hand then using an appropriate sized sec-tion of pipe placed over the seal, drive it intoplace.10 Install the right driveaxle (see Chap-ter 8).

4 Shift cable - removal, installationand adjustment

Warning: These vehicles are equipped withair bags. Always disconnect the negative bat-tery cable and wait two minutes before work-ing in the vicinity of the impact sensors, steer-ing column or instrument panel to avoid thepossibility of accidental deployment of theairbag(s), which could cause personal injury(see Chapter 12).

Check1 The easiest way to check the cableadjustment is to check the operation of thePark/Neutral/Back-up light switch. Apply thebrakes and try to start the vehicle in all gearpositions. The starter motor should onlyengage when the gearshift is in the PARK orNEUTRAL positions. If the engine starts inany other gears than PARK or NEUTRAL,adjust the shift cable as noted below and/orcheck operation of the Park/Neutral/Back-upli ght switch (see Section 6).

2 Verify that the NEUTRAL and DRIVEdetents are within the limits of the gearshiftgate stops. Adjust the shift cable as neces-sary, see below.

RemovalRefer to illustrations 4.9, 4.12 and 4.133 Raise the hood and place a blanket overthe left (driver's) fender to protect it.4 Disconnect the negative cable from theremote battery terminal.5 Remove the air cleaner assembly (seeChapter 4).6 Disconnect the positive cable from theremote battery terminal.7 Remove the Transmission Control Mod-ule (see Section 8).8 Remove the Power Distribution Centerfrom its mounting and position it out of theway.9 Using two flat blade screwdrivers, care-fully pry the shift cable from the manual leveron the transaxle (see illustration). To avoiddamaging the cable isolator bushing, pry upwith equal force on both sides of the shiftcable end.10 Remove the bolt securing the shift cablebracket to the transaxle and detach the cablefrom the transaxle (see illustration 4.9).11 Working inside the vehicle, remove thecenter console (see Chapter 11).12 Using a flat blade screwdriver, carefullypry the shift cable from the gearshift lever pin

7B

7B-4 Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

4.13 Use pliers to remove the shift cable retaining clip4.12 Position the gearshift lever so the shift cable end is in theaccess window and then pry the cable from the shift lever pin

(see illustration). tration 4.9).13 Using pliers, remove the shift cable 23 Adjust the shiftretaining clip (see illustration) and remove below.the cable from the bracket. 24 The remaining14 Raise the vehicle and support it securely reverse of removal.on jackstands.15 Working under the vehicle, remove theshift cable grommet from the floorpan.16 Carefully remove the shift cable throughthe floorpan opening while unfolding thecable retainer clips.17 Remove the shift cable assembly fromthe vehicle.

InstallationRefer to illustration 4.2818 Route the shift cable into the enginecompartment and through the opening in thefloorpan.19 Install the shift cable into the floorpanbracket at the gearshift lever assembly andsecure it with the retaining clip (see illustra-tion 4.13).20 Install the shift cable end onto thegearshift lever pin. Make sure it snaps intoplace.21 Working in the engine compartment,connect the shift cable end onto the manualshift lever at the transaxle. Make sure it snapsinto place.22 Place the shift cable bracket into posi-tion and tighten the bolt securely (see illus-

Adjustment25 Disconnect the negative cable from theremote battery terminal.26 Remove the center console (see Chap-ter 11).27 Place the gearshift lever in the PARKposition.28 Loosen the gearshift cable adjusting nutat the gearshift lever (see illustration).29 Working in the engine compartment,place the manual shift lever at the transaxle inthe PARK position. The PARK sprag must beengaged when adjusting the cable. Rock thevehicle back and forth to ensure PARK spragengagement. The vehicle should not be ableto move.30 Tighten the shift cable adjusting nutsecurely.31 Check the shift lever for proper opera-tion. It should operate smoothly without bind-ing. Perform the cable check as noted above(see Steps 1 and 2). Readjust if necessary.32 Install the center console (see Chap-ter 11).33 Attach the negative cable to the remotebattery terminal.

5 Gearshift assembly -replacement

Refer to illustration 5.6Warning: These vehicles are equipped withair bags. Always disconnect the negative bat-tery cable and wait two minutes before work-ing in the vicinity of the impact sensors, steer-ing column or instrument panel to avoid thepossibility of accidental deployment of theairbag(s), which could cause personal injury(see Chapter 12).1 Disconnect the negative cable from theremote battery terminal.2 Remove the center console (see Chap-ter 11).3 Disconnect the shift cable from thegearshift lever pin and floorpan bracket (seeSection 4).4 Disconnect the shifter/ignition interlockcable from the gearshift assembly (see Sec-tion 7).5 On models equipped with Autostick,detach the electrical connector from the baseof the gearshift assembly.6 Remove the 4 attaching nuts and re-move the gearshift assembly (see illustra-tion).7 Installation is the reverse of removal,except adjust the shift cable (see Section 4)prior to installing the center console.

cable as described

installation steps are the

4.28 Shift cable adjusting nut (arrow) 5.6 Gearshift assembly mounting nuts (arrows)

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle 7B-5

6.10 Removing the Park/Neutral/Back-uplight switch

6 Park/Neutral/Back-up lightswitch - check and replacement

Check1 The Park/Neutral/Back-up light switchhas a black colored insulator and is locatedat the lower left hand side of the transaxlenear the oil pan. The switch inhibits startermotor engagement unless the gearshift leveris in the PARK or NEUTRAL position andcompletes the back-up light circuit when thegearshift lever is placed in REVERSE.2 Prior to checking the switch, first makesure the shift cable is adjusted properly (seeSection 4).3 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands. Extract the 2 push-in fasten-ers and remove the transaxle splash shield.4 Disconnect the electrical connectorfrom the Park/Neutral/Back-up light switch.5 Using an ohmmeter, check for continuitybetween the center terminal of the switch andthe switch body. Continuity should only bepresent with the gearshift lever in PARK andNEUTRAL. If continuity is detected with thegearshift lever in any other position, replacethe switch.6 Next, check for continuity between thetwo outer terminals. Continuity should onlyexist with the gearshift lever in the Reverse

position. Check the for continuity betweeneach of the outer terminals and the switchbody. No continuity should be present.Replace the switch if it fails any of thesechecks.7 Install the transaxle splash shield andsecure it with the 2 push-in fasteners. Lowerthe vehicle.

ReplacementRefer to illustration 6.108 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands. Extract the 2 push-in fasten-ers and remove the transaxle splash shield.9 Working under the vehicle, disconnectthe electrical connector from the switch.Place a drain container under the transaxle assome fluid loss will occur.10 Unscrew the switch from the transaxleusing a box-end wrench (see illustration).Discard the switch seal.11 Look into the switch opening in thetransaxle. Have an assistant shift thetransaxle from PARK to NEUTRAL. Checkthat the internal operating fingers are cen-tered in the switch opening.12 Install the new switch and seal into thetransaxle and tighten the switch to the torqueli sted in this Chapter's Specification Section.13 Recheck the switch operation (seeSteps 1 through 6).14 Attach the switch electrical connector,install the transaxle splash shield and lowerthe vehicle.15 Check the transaxle fluid level and addmore, if necessary (see Chapter 1).

7 Shifter/ignition interlock system -description, check and cablereplacement

Warning: These vehicles are equipped withair bags. Always disconnect the negative bat-tery cable and wait two minutes before work-ing in the vicinity of the impact sensors, steer-ing column or instrument panel to avoid thepossibility of accidental deployment of theairbag(s), which could cause personal injury(see Chapter 12).

Description1 The shift/ignition interlock system con-nects the automatic transaxle gearshift leverand the ignition lock system. With the ignitionswitch in the LOCK or ACCESSORY position,the interlock system holds the transmissionshift lever in PARK. When the key is in theOFF or RUN position, the shift lever isunlocked and can be moved to any position.And if the shift lever is not in the PARK posi-tion, the system prevents the operator fromturning the ignition switch to the LOCK orACCESSORY position.

CheckRefer to illustrations 7.7, 7.8, 7.10a and 7.10b2 Place the gearshift lever in the PARKposition. The ignition switch should rotatefreely from the OFF to the LOCK position.Next, move the gearshift lever to the DRIVEposition. The ignition switch should not beable to rotate from the OFF to the LOCKposition.3 With the ignition switch in the OFF orRUN position, you should be able to movethe gearshift lever out of the PARK position.With the ignition switch in the LOCK orACCESSORY position, you should not beable to move the gearshift lever from thePARK position.4 If you are able to move the shift lever inany way other than previously described, theinterlock system requires service.

Cable replacement5 Disconnect the negative cable from theremote battery terminal.6 Remove the center console (see Chap-ter 11).7 Detach the interlock cable housing fromthe gearshift assembly base (see illustra-tion).8 Remove the interlock cable end from thegearshift lever cam (see illustration).9 Remove the steering column covers(see Chapter 11).10 At the ignition key lock cylinder,squeeze the interlock cable retaining clipthen pull the cable from the ignition lock

Park/Neutral/Back-uplight switch (Black)

7B

7.7 Use a screwdriver to disengage the shifter/interlock cablehousing retainer, then slide the cable from the groove in the

gearshift assembly base7.8 Removing the interlock cable from the gearshift lever cam

7B-6 Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

7.10a Depress the interlock cable retaining clip .. . 7.10b . . . then withdraw it from the ignition lock cylinder housing

cylinder housing (see illustrations).11 Detach the interlock cable from the rout-ing clip and remove it from the vehicle.12 To install the interlock cable, turn theignition switch to the RUN position and insertthe cable end into the ignition lock cylinderand make sure it snaps into place.13 Then, route it down the steering column,secure it with the retaining clip and continuedown to the gearshift assembly.14 Attach the interlock cable to thegearshift lever cam (see illustration 7.8).15 Next, push the cable housing into thegroove in the gearshift assembly base. Thecable housing is fully seated when it snapsinto place (see illustration 7.7).16 Adjust the interlock cable (see below).17 Install the steering column covers andthe center console (see Chapter 11).

AdjustmentRefer to illustration 7.2118 Disconnect the negative cable from theremote battery terminal.19 Remove the center console (see Chap-ter 11).20 Remove the ignition key from the lockcylinder with the switch in the Lock position.Make sure the gearshift lever is in the PARKposition.21 When the adjustment nut on the inter-lock lever is loosened, the cable automati-cally indexes itself to the correct position.Loosen the adjustment nut and allow thecable to index itself (see illustration). Afterthe cable has found its position, tighten theadjusting nut.22 With the ignition in the OFF (locked)position, the gearshift lever should be lockedin the PARK position. If the gearshift lever canbe moved to select another gear position,inspect the cable for binding, proper installa-tion and repeat the adjustment procedure.23 Next, place the ignition key in the RUNposition (engine OFF). Move the gearshiftlever to the REVERSE position. You shouldbe unable to remove the key from the ignitionlock cylinder. If the key can be removed,inspect the cable for binding, proper installa-tion and repeat the adjustment procedure.24 After adjustment, install the center con -

sole (see Chapter 11) and attach the negativecable to the remote battery terminal.

8 Transmission Control Module(TCM) - removal and installation

Note: Do not interchange TCM's from differ-ent year vehicles. After replacing a TCM takethe vehicle to your local dealer servicedepartment or other qualified transmissionshop to have the TCM calibrated for yourvehicle.Caution: The TCM is an Electro-Static Dis-charge (ESD) sensitive electronic device,meaning a static electricity discharge fromyour body could possibly damage electricalcomponents. Make sure to properly groundyourself and the TCM before handling it.Avoid touching the electrical terminals of theTCM unless absolutely necessary.

RemovalRefer to illustration 8.31 Disconnect the negative cable from theremote battery terminal.2 On 2.4L engines, remove the air cleanerassembly (see Chapter 4).3 Detach the electrical connector from theTCM (see illustration).

4 Remove the 3 mounting screws andwithdraw the TCM from the vehicle.

Installation5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

9 Automatic transaxle - removaland installation

RemovalRefer to illustrations 9.18, 9.19, 9.20, 9.21,9.24 and 9.341 Open the hood and place protectivecovers on the front fenders and cowl. Specialfender covers are available, but an old bed-spread or blankets will also work.2 Disconnect the negative cable from theremote battery terminal.3 Remove the air cleaner assembly (seeChapter 4).4 Remove the Transmission Control Mod-ule (see Section 8).5 Remove the shift cable and bracketfrom the transaxle (see Section 4).6 Disconnect and plug the transaxle oilcooler lines and position them out of the way.7 Loosen the driveaxle hub nuts (seeChapter 8) and front wheel lug nuts. Raise thevehicle and place it securely on jackstands.

7.21 Loosening the interlock cableadjusting nut (arrow)

8.3 Transmission Control Module(TCM) (arrow)

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle 7B-7

9.18 Removing a lateral strut bracket

Remove both front wheels.8 Drain the transaxle fluid (see Chapter 1).9 Remove the driveaxles (see Chapter 8).10 Remove the splash shield/battery coverfrom the left front wheel well (see Chapter 5 ifnecessary).11 Remove the accessory drivebelt splashshield from the right front wheel well (seeChapter 1 if necessary).12 Remove the transaxle dipstick tube. Toprevent foreign debris from entering thetransaxle, cover the dipstick tube hole in thetransaxle with duct tape or equivalent.13 On 2.5L engines, remove the exhaustmanifold cross-over pipe (see Chapter 2B ifnecessary).14 Remove the engine oil filter (see Chap-ter 1 if necessary).15 Remove the starter motor (see Chap-ter 5).16 Disconnect the exhaust system from therear exhaust manifold and position it out ofthe way (see Chapter 4). Note: It may be nec-essary to remove, or partially remove, theexhaust system to accomplish this.17 On 1997 and 1998 models equippedwith 2.4L engines, remove the oil pan-to-transaxle structural collar (see Chapter 2A,Section 13).18 Remove the lateral strut brackets con-necting the engine to transaxle (see illustra-tion).19 Remove the bellhousing lower cover(see illustration).20 If the torque converter is to be rein-stalled, match-mark it to the driveplate (seeillustration).21 Remove the four torque converter-to-driveplate bolts (see illustration). To gainaccess to each bolt, rotate the engine clock-wise (ONLY) as viewed from the drivebelt endof the engine using the crankshaftdamper/pulley bolt. Use a screwdriver placedn the ring gear of the driveplate to keep thecrankshaft from turning during removal of thebolts.22 After removing the torque converter-to-driveplate bolts, push the torque converterinto the transaxle bellhousing as far as possi-ble.

9.19 Removing the bellhousinglower cover

23 On 2.5L engines, remove the crankshaftposition sensor (see Chapter 6).24 Clearly label and detach the electricalconnectors from the transaxle and positionthem out of the way (see illustration).25 Match-mark the front suspension cross-member to the body and frame so it can bereinstalled in the same position to maintainproper wheel alignment (see Chapter 10,Section 17).26 Remove the front stabilizer-to-frameclamps.27 Support the engine from above with ahoist, or place a floor jack under the oil pan.Place a wood block on the jack head tospread the load on the oil pan.28 Loosen (ONLY) the right side steeringgear bolts and front suspension crossmem-ber bolts (see Chapter 10 if necessary).29 Remove the left side steering gear andfront suspension crossmember bolts (seeChapter 10 if necessary).30 Remove the left engine mountingbracket from the transaxle (see the appropri-ate Part of Chapter 2).31 Remove the front engine mountingbracket and strut (see the appropriate Part ofChapter 2).32 Remove the rear engine mountingbracket (see the appropriate Part of Chap-ter 2).33 Remove the engine support module

9.20 Before removing the driveplate-to-torque converter bolts, find a hole in thedrive plate and match-mark the torque

converter to the driveplate

(1995 to 1997 models) or front and rear lowerengine mounts (1998 and later models) asapplicable (see the appropriate Part of Chap-ter 2). Note: The engine support module isattached to the lower radiator support. Whenremoving the engine support module, theradiator and air conditioning condenser (ifequipped) must be supported.34 Support the transaxle with a transmis-

Removing the driveplate-to-torqueconverter bolts

9.24 41TE transaxleelectrical connections

1 Solenoid packconnector

2 Input speed sensor3 Transmission range

sensor (white)4 Park/Neutral/Back-

up light switch(black)

5 Output speed sensor

7B

7B-8 Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

sion jack, if available, or use a floor jack (seeillustration). Secure the transaxle to the jackusing straps or chains so it doesn't fall offduring removal.35 Remove the transaxle bellhousing-to-engine bolts. Make sure all bellhousing-to-engine bolts are removed.36 Make a final check that all wires, hosesand brackets have been disconnected fromthe transaxle, then with the engine properlysupported, move the front suspension cross-member rearward and carefully lower thetransaxle from the vehicle.37 Make sure you keep the transaxle levelas you maneuver it or the torque convertermay fall out. Note: Reinstalling the bellhous-ing lower cover after the transaxle clears thedriveplate will help hold the torque converterin place.38 Remove the torque converter from thetransaxle.39 With the transaxle removed, now it agood time to inspect the engine rear main oilseal for leakage and replace if necessary (seethe appropriate Part of Chapter 2). Alsoinspect the transaxle oil pump seal andreplace if necessary (see Section 3).

Installation40 Install the torque converter onto thetransaxle input shaft. Handle it carefully toavoid damaging the transaxle input shaftseal. Make sure the torque converter hubsplines are properly engaged with the splineson the transaxle input shaft. Note: If rein-stalling the old torque converter, position it sothe match-mark applied in Step 20 will corre-spond with the mark on the driveplate.41 With the transaxle secured to the jack,raise it into position and carefully slide it for-ward until the transaxle bellhousing seatsagainst the engine. Do not use excessiveforce to install the transaxle - if it doesn'tslide into place easily, readjust the angle ofthe transaxle and try again. Make sure youkeep the transaxle level as you maneuver it orthe torque converter may fall out. Do notforce it or use the bellhousing bolts to pull ittogether. Make sure the dowel pins on theengine are aligned with their respective holesin the transaxle. If you are experiencing diffi-culty, solicit the aid of an assistant.42 Install the bellhousing-to-engine boltswith brackets and clamps where requiredand tighten them to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specification Section.43 Install the engine support module (1995to 1997 models) or front and rear lower enginemounts (1998 and later models) as applicable(see the appropriate Part of Chapter 2).44 Install the left side steering gear andfront suspension crossmember attachingbolts. Align the front suspension crossmem-ber with the match-marks applied in Step 25(see Chapter 10 if necessary). Tighten thesteering gear and crossmember bolts to theirrespective torque values given in the Specifi -

cation Section of Chapter 10.45 Position the front stabilizer bar againstthe front suspension crossmember andsecure it with the retaining clamps. Tightenthe stabilizer bar clamp bolts to the torquegiven in the Specification Section of Chap-ter 10.46 Install the rear engine mounting bracketto the transaxle and secure it to the enginesupport module (1995 to 1997 models) orrear lower engine mount (1998 models) asapplicable (see the appropriate Part of Chap-ter 2). Tighten the bracket-to-engine bolts(ONLY) to the torque listed in the Specifica-tion Section in the appropriate Part of Chap-ter 2. Leave the through-bolt loose for now.47 Install the front engine mounting bracketand strut (see the appropriate Part of Chapter2). Note: On 1998 models equipped with 2.4Lengines, the front engine mounting bracketand strut are tightened in sequence with theoil pan-to-transaxle structural collar, refer toChapter 2A, Section 13. Secure the bracketto the engine support module (1995 to 1997models) or front lower engine mount (1998models) as applicable (see the appropriatePart of Chapter 2). Tighten the mountingbracket and strut-to-engineltransaxle bolts(ONLY) to the torque listed in the Specifica-tion Section in the appropriate Part of Chap-ter 2. Leave the through-bolt loose for now.48 Install the left engine mounting bracketonto the transaxle and secure it to the sup-port assembly on the frame rail (see theappropriate Part of Chapter 2). Tighten thebolts to the torque listed in the SpecificationSection in the appropriate Part of Chapter 2.49 Tighten the front and rear engine mountthrough-bolts to the torque listed in theSpecification Section in the appropriate Partof Chapter 2.50 Remove the engine and transaxle sup-port jacks.51 If you're reinstalling the old torque con-verter, align the driveplate-to-torque con-verter match-marks applied in Step 20. Installthe four driveplate-to-torque converter bolts.To gain access to each bolt hole, rotate theengine clockwise (ONLY) as viewed from thedrivebelt end of the engine using thecrankshaft damper/pulley bolt. Tighten thedriveplate-to-torque converter bolts to thetorque listed in this Chapter's SpecificationSection. Use a screwdriver placed in the ringgear of the driveplate to keep the crankshaftfrom turning during installation of the bolts.52 Install the bellhousing lower cover.Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specification Section.53 Install the lateral strut brackets (seeillustration 9.18). Tighten the bolts to thetorque listed in this Chapter's SpecificationSection.54 On 1997 and later models equippedwith 2.4L engines, install the oil pan-to-transaxle structural collar. Tighten the boltsto the torque listed in the Specification Sec -

9.34 Using a transmission jack to removethe transaxle

tion of Chapter 2A.55 Attach the electrical connectors to thetransaxle (see illustration 9.24).56 On 2.5L engines, install the crankshaftposition sensor, attach the electrical connec-tor and tighten the retaining bolt to the torquegiven in the Specification Section of Chap-ter 6.57 On 2.5L engines, install the exhaustmanifold cross-over pipe. Tighten the nuts tothe torque given in the Specification Sectionof Chapter 2B.58 Attach the exhaust system to theexhaust manifold (see Chapter 4). Tighten thenuts to the torque given in the SpecificationSection of Chapter 4.59 Install the transaxle dipstick tube.60 Install the transaxle splash shield andsecure it with the 2 push-in fasteners.61 Install the splash shield/battery coverinto the left front wheel well (see Chapter 5 ifnecessary).62 Install the starter motor (see Chapter 5).Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in theSpecification Section of Chapter 5.63 Install the engine oil filter (see Chap-ter 1).64 Install the driveaxles, hub nuts and frontwheels (see Chapter 8). Tighten all fastenersto the torque values given in the SpecificationSection of Chapter 8.65 Install the shift cable and mountingbracket onto the transaxle (see Section 4).66 Install the transaxle oil cooler lines ontothe fittings and tighten the clamps securely.67 Install the Transmission Control Module(see Section 8).68 Attach the negative cable to the remotebattery terminal.69 Install the air cleaner assembly (seeChapter 4).70 Fill the transaxle with the appropriatefluid (see Chapter 1).71 Check the shift cable operation andadjust if necessary (see Section 4).72 Road test the vehicle and check forproper transaxle operation and fluid leaks.Shutoff the engine and recheck the transaxlefluid level.

Chapter 8Clutch and driveaxlesContents

SectionClutch - description and check ..............................................................2Clutch cable - removal and installation ..................................................3Clutch release bearing and lever - removal, inspection

and installation..................................................................................5Clutch start switch - check and replacement ........................................6Driveaxle boot check ........................................................See Chapter 1Driveaxle boot replacement ...................................................................9

SectionDriveaxle oil seal - replacement..................................... See Chapter 7ADriveaxle - removal and installation .......................................................8Driveaxles - general information and inspection ....................................7Driveplate - removal and installation .............................. See Chapter 2AGeneral information................................................................................1Modular clutch assembly - removal, inspection and installation ... 4

Specifications

Torque specifications Ft-lbsDriveplate-to-modular clutch assembly bolts..................................................55Driveplate-to-crankshaft bolts .........................................................................See Chapter 2Driveaxle/hub nut

1995 through 1999 ......................................................................................1802000............................................................................................................ 142

Wheel lug nuts ..................................................................................................110

1 General information

The information in this Chapter dealswith the components from the rear of theengine to the front wheels, except for thetransaxle, which is covered with in Chapter 7.For the purposes of this Chapter, these com-ponents are grouped into two categories:Clutch and driveaxles. Separate Sectionswithin this Chapter offer general descriptionsand checking procedures for both groups.

Since nearly all the procedures coveredin this Chapter involve working under thevehicle, make sure it's securely supported onsturdy jackstands or a hoist where the vehiclecan be easily raised and lowered.

2 Clutch - description and check

1 All vehicles with a manual transaxle usea single dry plate, diaphragm spring typemodular clutch assembly. The modular clutchassembly works like a traditional clutch

except that it has no serviceable parts. Theflywheel, clutch friction disc and pressureplate are all in one unit which mounts to thedriveplate at the rear of the engine. When aclutch failure occurs, the modular clutchassembly must be replaced with a new unit.2 The clutch friction disc is compressedbetween two plates inside the modular clutchassembly by an internal one-piece diaphragmspring with multiple release fingers.3 The clutch release system is cable-actu-ated. The system consists of the clutchpedal, the cable, a clutch release lever andthe clutch release (or throw-out) bearing. Theclutch cable on these models is self-adjustingand requires no routine maintenance oradjustment.4 When pressure is applied to the clutchpedal to release the clutch, the cable movesthe release lever, which pivots, moving therelease bearing. The bearing pushes againstthe fingers of the diaphragm spring of themodular clutch assembly, which in turnallows the clutch friction disc to spin inde-pendently of the engine.5 Here are some preliminary checks to

help diagnose a clutch system failure:a) To check "clutch spin down time," run

the engine at normal idle speed with thetransaxle in Neutral (clutch pedal up -engaged). Disengage the clutch (pedaldown), wait several seconds and shiftthe transaxle into Reverse. No grindingnoise should be heard. A grinding noisewould most likely indicate a problemwith the clutch release system.

b) To check for complete clutch release,run the engine (with the parking brakeapplied to prevent movement) and holdthe clutch pedal approximately 1/2-inchfrom the floor. Shift the transaxlebetween 1st gear and Reverse severaltimes. If the shift is not smooth, clutchcomponent failure is indicated.

c) Visually inspect the clutch pedal bush-ings at the top of the clutch pedal tomake sure there is no sticking or exces-sive wear.

6 For more information on clutch relatedproblems see the Troubleshooting section atthe beginning of this manual.

8

8-2 Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

3.3 Remove the clutch cableinspection cover

3 Clutch cable - removal andinstallation

RemovalRefer to illustrations 3.3, 3.4, 3.5a, 3.5b, 3.5cand 3.61 Raise the hood and place a blanket overthe left (driver's) fender to protect it.2 Remove the air cleaner assembly (seeChapter 4).3 Remove the clutch cable inspectioncover from the bellhousing (see illustration).4 Pull back on the clutch cable housingand disengage it from the slot in the bell-housing, then disconnect it from the releaselever (see illustration).5 Working inside the vehicle, slightlydepress the clutch pedal to allow access tothe clutch cable up-stop/spacer. Remove theretaining clip securing the up-stop/spacer tothe clutch pedal pivot pin (see illustration).Wedge a narrow flat-blade screwdriverbetween the clutch pedal pivot pin and theup-stop/spacer retaining tab, then removethe up-stop/spacer from the pivot pin (seeillustration). Remove the up-stop/spacerfrom the clutch cable end (see illustration).

3.4 Grab onto the clutch cable housing,pull it back and pass the clutch cable

through the slot in the bellhousing, thendisconnect it from the release lever

6 Caution: Do not pull on the clutch cablewhile removing it from the dash panel as thecable self-adjuster may be damaged. Work-ing inside the engine compartment, hold ontothe grommet and, using a slight twistingmotion, carefully remove the clutch cablegrommet from the firewall and clutch bracket(see illustration). If necessary, carefully usea screwdriver to free the grommet from thefirewall opening. Remove the clutch cableassembly from the vehicle.

Installation7 To help ease installation, apply a littlepetroleum jelly to the clutch cable grommet.8 Working inside the engine compart-ment, insert the self-adjusting end of theclutch cable through the firewall and into theclutch bracket using a slight twisting motion.Make sure the cable grommet is fully seatedin the firewall.9 Working inside the vehicle, seat thecylindrical part of the grommet into the fire-wall opening and clutch bracket. Make surethe self-adjuster is firmly seated against theclutch bracket to ensure the adjuster willfunction properly.

3.5a Working inside the vehicle, slightlydepress the clutch pedal for access to theclutch cable, then remove the clip (arrow)securing the up-stop/spacer to the clutch

pedal pivot pin .. .

3.5b . . . next, wedge a narrow flat-bladescrewdriver between the up-stop/spacerretainer and the clutch pedal pivot pin,then slide the up-stop/spacer off the

pivot pin .. .

10 Install the up-stop/spacer onto theclutch cable end, then install the up-stop/spacer onto the clutch pedal pivot pin.

3.5c . . . and remove the up-stop/spacer from the clutchcable end

3.6 Working in the engine compartment, carefully remove theclutch cable and grommet from the firewall

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles 8-3

BROKEN OR BENT FINGERS

EXCESSIVE FINGER WEAR

4.7 Typical diaphragm spring release finger defects

Install the retaining clip and make sure it isproperly seated.11 Working inside the engine compart-ment, using slight pressure, pull the clutchcable end to draw the cable taut. Push thecable housing toward the firewall with lessthan 25 Ibs of pressure. The cable housingshould move about 1 to 2 inches - this indi-cates proper adjuster operation. If the cabledoes not adjust (move), make sure theadjuster mechanism is properly seated in thebracket.12 Connect the cable to the release levermaking sure the cupped washer seatssecurely on the release lever tangs.13 Pull back on the clutch cable housingand insert it into the bellhousing (see illustra-tion 3.4).14 Install the clutch cable inspection coveronto the bellhousing (see illustration 3.3).

4 Modular clutch assembly -removal, inspection andinstallation

Warning: Dust produced by clutch wear anddeposited on clutch components may con-tain asbestos, which is hazardous to yourhealth. DO NOT blow it out with compressedair and DO NOT inhale it. DO NOT use gaso-line or other petroleum-based solvents toremove the dust. Brake system cleanershould be used to flush the dust into a drainpan. After the clutch components are wipedclean with a rag, dispose of the contaminatedrags and cleaner in a labeled, covered con-tainer.

Removal1 Access to the clutch components isnormally accomplished by removing thetransaxle, leaving the engine in the vehicle. Ifthe engine is being removed for major over-haul, then the opportunity should always betaken to check the clutch for wear andreplace worn components as necessary.However, the relatively low cost of the clutchcomponents compared to the time and laborinvolved in gaining access to them warrants

their replacement any time the engine ortransaxle is removed, unless they are new orin near-perfect condition. The following pro-cedure assumes that the engine will remain inthe vehicle.2 Remove the transaxle from the vehicle(see Chapter 7, Part A). Note: The modularclutch assembly remains on the transaxleinput shaft during the removal process.3 Remove the modular clutch assemblyfrom the transaxle. Handle it carefully toavoid contaminating the friction surfaces.4 To remove the clutch release bearingand lever refer to Section 5.

InspectionRefer to illustration 4.75 While they're accessible, inspect theengine rear main oil seal and transaxle inputshaft seal for evidence of leakage. Replaceseals if necessary.6 Inspect the modular clutch for oil orgrease contamination. Replace if contamina-tion is present.7 Inspect the clutch diaphragm springrelease fingers for excessive wear or damage(see illustration). Replace the modularclutch assembly if excessive wear or damageis observed.

Installation8 If removed, install the clutch releasebearing and lever (see Section 5).9 Install the new modular clutch assemblyonto the transaxle input shaft.10 Install the transaxle (see Chapter 7,Part A). Note: Be sure to install new clutchassembly-to-driveplate bolts. Tighten theclutch assembly-to-driveplate bolts in acriss-cross pattern to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications.

5 Clutch release bearing and lever- removal, inspection andinstallation

Warning: Dust produced by clutch wear anddeposited on clutch components may con-tain asbestos, which is hazardous to your

health. DO NOT blow it out with compressedair and DO NOT inhale it. DO NOT use gaso-line or petroleum-based solvents to removethe dust. Brake system cleaner should beused to flush it into a drain pan. After theclutch components are wiped clean with arag, dispose of the contaminated rags andcleaner in a labeled, covered container.

RemovalRefer to illustration 5.41 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower.2 Remove the modular clutch assembly(see Section 4). Handle it carefully to avoidcontaminating the friction surfaces.3 Working on the transaxle, position therelease lever and bearing so the lever is at aright angle to the input shaft. Grasp therelease lever on each side of the pivot ballsocket and pull; the release lever will pop offthe pivot stud. Caution: Do not use a screw-driver or pry bar to disengage the lever as thespring clips on the underside of the releaselever will be damaged.4 Slide the release bearing and lever offthe bearing sleeve (see illustration).5 Separate the fork from the bearing,being careful not to damage the retentiontabs on the bearing.

5.4 Removing the release bearingand lever

8-4 Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

OUTERCVJOINT

TUNED DAMPER WEIGHT

BEARINGSHIELD

INNER TRIPODJOINT

TONE WHEEL(IF ABS EQUIPPED)

TUNED DAMPERWEIGHT

5.6 Hold the release bearing outer raceand rotate the inner race while applying

pressure. It should turn smoothly andquietly - if it feels rough or makes

noise, replace it

6.3 Clutch pedal details

InspectionRefer to illustration 5.66 Hold the bearing by the outer race androtate the inner race while applying pressure(see illustration). If the bearing doesn't turnsmoothly or if it's noisy, replace the bearingassembly with a new one. Wipe the bearingwith a clean rag and inspect it for damage,wear and cracks. Don't immerse the bearingin solvent - it's sealed for life and to do sowould ruin it. Note: Because of the difficultyinvolved in removing the transaxle for releasebearing replacement, we recommend rou-tinely replacing the release bearing when themodular clutch assembly is replaced.7 Check the release lever fork for cracksor distortion. Replace if necessary.8 Inspect the pivot ball spring clips on theback side of the lever. If they're cracked orbroken, replace the lever.9 Clean any dirt off the pivot ball andpocket in the release fork. Examine them fordamage or excessive wear. Replace if neces-sary.

Installation10 Lightly lubricate the release lever ends,the inner diameter of the release bearing andthe input shaft with hi-temperature grease.Caution: The pivot stud ball is Teflon coated- don't apply any lubrication to it or it's pocket

OUTER CV JOINTOUTER CV

SEALING BOOTJOINT

in the release fork as this would break downthe Teflon coating.11 Install the release lever onto the bearing.Note: The small pegs on the bearing must goover the fork arms.12 Install the release bearing and lever ontothe input shaft sleeve. Snap the lever intoplace on the pivot ball. Make sure it is prop-erly seated.13 Install the modular clutch assembly (seeSection 4).

6 Clutch start switch - check andreplacement

CheckRefer to illustration 6.31 Verify that the engine will NOT startwhen the clutch pedal is released (up).2 Verify that the engine WILL start whenthe clutch pedal is depressed (down).3 If the engine won't start with the pedaldepressed, or starts with the pedal released,unplug the electrical connector to the switch(l ocated near the top of the clutch pedal) (seeillustration) and check continuity betweenthe connector terminals with the clutch pedaldepressed.4 If there's continuity between the termi-nals with the pedal depressed, the switch isokay; if there's no continuity between the ter-minals with the pedal depressed, replace theswitch. If there's continuity between the ter-minals when the clutch pedal is released,replace the switch.

Replacement5 The non-adjustable switch is mountedvertically at the upper end of the clutch pedallever.6 Unplug the switch electrical connectorfrom the wiring harness.

7 Depress the wing tabs on the switch andpush the switch out of the mounting bracket.8 Remove the switch and slide the wiresout of the slot in the bracket.9 Installation is the reverse of removal.

7 Driveaxles - general informationand inspection

Refer to illustration 7.21 Power is transmitted from the transaxleto the wheels through a pair of driveaxles. Theinner end of each driveaxle is splined to thedifferential side gears. The driveaxles must beremoved to replace the driveaxle oil sealslocated in the transaxle (see Chapter 7A). Theouter ends of the driveaxles are splined to thefront wheel hubs and secured by a large nut.2 Each driveaxle assembly consists of aninner and outer constant velocity (CV) jointconnected together by an axle shaft (seeillustration). The inner ends of the driveaxlesare equipped with a tripod type CV joint on allmodels. This design is capable of both angu-lar and axial motion. In other words, the innerCV joints are free to slide in-and-out accord-ing to the travel limits of the front suspension.The inner CV joint (tripod joint) can be disas-sembled and cleaned in the event of a sealingboot failure, but if any parts are damaged, theentire driveaxle assembly must be replacedas a unit (see Section 8).3 The outer CV joint on all models, is aball-and-cage design (Rzeppa joint), and iscapable of angular - but not axial - move-ment. The outer CV joint is not serviceable.The only serviceable part on the outer CVjoint is the hub/bearing shield (all models) andthe sealing boot (1998 and later models only).In the event of bearing or sealing boot failureon 1995 to 1997 models, the entire driveaxlemust be replaced.

BEARINGSHIELD

TRIPOD JOINTSEALING BOOT

7.2 Driveaxle components

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles 8-5

8.2a Remove the hub nut cotter pin .. .

4 The boots should be inspected periodi-cally for damage and leaking lubricant (seeChapter 1). Torn CV joint boots should bereplaced immediately or the CV joints canbecome damaged due to lack of lubricationor the ingress of water. Boot replacementrequires removal of the driveaxle (see Section8). Note: Some auto parts stores carry "split"type replacement boots, which can beinstalled without removing the driveaxle fromthe vehicle. This is a convenient alternative;however, the driveaxle should be removedand the CV joint disassembled and cleaned toensure the joint is free from contaminantssuch as moisture and dirt which will acceler-ate CV joint wear. The most common symp-tom of worn or damaged CV joints, besideslubricant leaks, is a clicking noise in turns, aclunk when accelerating after coasting andvibration at highway speeds. To check forwear in the CV joints and driveaxle shafts,grasp each axle (one at a time) and rotate it inboth directions while holding the CV jointhousings, feeling for play indicating wornsplines or sloppy CV joints. Also check theaxleshafts for cracks, dents and distortion.

8.2b ... then remove the lock andspring washer

8 Driveaxle - removal andinstallation

RemovalRefer to illustrations 8.2a, 8.2b, 8.3, 8.8a,8.8b, 8.8c, 8.10 and 8.111 Disconnect the negative cable from theremote battery terminal.2 On 1995 through 1999 models, removethe cotter pin, lock and spring washer (seeillustrations). Discard the cotter pin - you'llneed a new one for reassembly. Note: The2000 model is not equipped with a cotter pin,lock or spring washer.3 Set the parking brake, place the trans-mission in gear (or Park as applicable) andhave an assistant apply the brakes firmly,then loosen the driveaxle/hub nut with a largesocket and breaker bar (see illustration). DONOT remove the nut at this time - only loosenit - the driveaxle shaft/nut serves to maintainthe required load on the hub/wheel bearings.4 Loosen the front wheel lug nuts, raisethe vehicle and support it securely on jack-

8.3 Loosen the driveaxle/hub nut - DONOT remove the nut - it holds the wheel

hub/bearing assembly together!

stands. Remove the wheel and driveaxle/hubnut.5 Remove the front brake caliper andhang it from the upper control arm with apiece of wire (see Chapter 9). Note: It is notnecessary to remove the brake pads for thisprocedure.6 It's not absolutely necessary that youdrain the transaxle lubricant prior to removinga driveaxle, but if the mileage on the odome-ter indicates that the transaxle is nearing thelubricant-change interval prescribed in Chap-ter 1 or the vehicle is at an angle that willallow the fluid to run out of the driveaxle hole- drain the transaxle lubricant (see Chapter 1).7 Detach the lower control arm from thesteering knuckle at the lower balljoint (seeChapter 10).8 Angle the steering knuckle as requiredand remove the driveaxle from the hub (seeillustration). Suspend the outer end of thedriveaxle with a piece of wire. DO NOT let ithang from the inner CV joint! If the driveaxleis stuck in the wheel hub, apply some pene -

8

8.8a Angle the steering knuckle as required and pull the driveaxlefrom the wheel hub

8.8b If the driveaxle is stuck in the wheel hub, apply somepenetrating oil to the hub splines then install the hub nut onto thedriveaxle a few turns (to protect the threads) and strike the end ofthe driveaxle with a soft-faced hammer to break it loose - DO NOT

attempt to drive the driveaxle out of the hub using a hammer!

8-6 Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

8.8c If the penetrating oil and hammer technique proveunsuccessful, use a two-jaw puller to push the driveaxle from

the wheel hub

8.10 Insert a prybar between the tripod joint housing and thetransaxle. Pry on the driveaxle until you feel the retaining circlip

on the driveaxle disengage from the differential side gear

trating oil to the hub splines, install the hub nuton a few turns and strike the end of thedriveaxle with a soft-faced hammer to break itloose (see illustration). DO NOT attempt todrive the driveaxle stub out of the wheel hubusing a hammer! In some cases it may be nec-essary to push the driveaxle stub out of thehub using a two-jaw puller (see illustration).9 Before you remove the driveaxle fromthe transaxle, check for lubricant leakage inthe area around the driveaxle oil seal. Ifthere's evidence of a leak, you'll want toreplace the seal after removing the driveaxle(see Chapter 7, Part A).10 To remove the driveaxle from thetransaxle, position a prybar against the innertripod joint housing and carefully pry it outuntil the retaining snap-ring on the driveaxleis disengaged from the transaxle side gear(see illustration).11 While supporting the driveaxle, pullstraight out on the tripod joint housing toavoid damaging the driveaxle seal located inthe transaxle (see illustration). Caution: Pullon the tripod housing only! DO NOT pull on

8.11 To avoid damaging the transaxle oilseal, support the ends of the driveaxle and

pull it straight out

the axleshaft - the only thing keeping the axle-shaft and tripod housing together is the seal-ing boot - pulling on the axleshaft might sepa-rate the tripod joint and result in componentdamage. Remove the driveaxle assemblyfrom the vehicle.12 Should it become necessary to movethe vehicle while the driveaxle is removed,before installing the wheel, place a large bolt(approximately the same size as the driveaxlesplined shaft) with two large washers (one oneach side of the hub) through the hub andtighten the nut to 180 ft-lbs. This will preventthe hub/wheel bearing from separating whenthe vehicle weight is placed on the wheelhub/bearing assembly.13 If you noted evidence of a leakingdriveaxle seal, refer to Chapter 7A for the sealreplacement procedure.

Installation14 Installation is the reverse of removal, butwith the following additional points:

Thoroughly clean the driveaxle splinesand hub/bearing shield. Clean therespective areas around the driveaxle oilseal and the steering knuckle/hub splines.Install a new snap-ring on the innerdriveaxle splines.

c) Lubricate the driveaxle oil seal, tripodjoint splines and sealing surface with theappropriate transmission lubricant (seeChapter 1).When installing the driveaxle into thetransaxle, hold it straight out and push itin sharply to seat the driveaxle snap-ringinto the groove in the transaxle sidegear. To make sure the circlip is properlyseated, grasp the tripod joint housing(not the driveaxle) and attempt to pull itout of the transaxle by hand.Before installing the driveaxle into thehub/steering knuckle, lubricate thedriveaxle outer splines with a light coatof multi-purpose grease. After installingthe driveaxle, install the driveaxle/hubnut and tighten the nut securely but not

to the specified torque at this time.Tighten the lower control arm balljointnut (see Chapter 10) and brake caliperguide pins (see Chapter 9) to the torquelisted in the Specification Section in theirrespective Chapters.Install the wheel and lug nuts then lowerthe vehicle.On 1995 through 1999 models, tightenthe driveshaft/hub nut to the torquelisted in this Chapter's Specifications.Install the spring washer, lock washerand new cotter pin. Bend the endsaround the nut - not over it. On 2000models, use a new driveshaft/hub nutand tighten it to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications.

i) Tighten the wheel lug nuts to the torquelisted in the Chapter 1 Specifications.

I) Check and add transaxle/differentiallubricant as applicable (see Chapter 1).

9 Driveaxle boot replacement

Note 1: If the CV joints are damaged (usuallydue to torn boots), individual replacementparts are not available. The complete driveaxle.new or rebuilt, must be replaced as an assem-bly and are available on an exchange basis.Note: 2: On 1995 to 1997 models, the onlyserviceable part on the outer CV joint is thehub/bearing shield which is pressed onto theouter CV joint housing splined shaft. Theouter CV joint cannot be removed from theaxleshaft. In the event of bearing or sealingboot failure on these models, the entiredriveaxle must be replaced.

Outer joint boot (1998 andlater models only)DisassemblyRefer to illustrations 9.2, 9.4, 9.5a and 9.5b1 Remove the driveaxle from the vehicle(see Section 8).2 Mount the driveaxle in a vise with soft

a)

b)

d)

e)

f)

g)

h)

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles 8-7

9.2 Cut the boot clamps and remove themfrom the driveaxle

jaws (to prevent damage to the axleshaft).Check the CV joint for excessive play in theradial direction, which indicates worn compo-nents. Check for smooth operation through-out the full range of motion for the CV joint.Using diagonal cutters, cut the boot clampsand remove them (see illustration).3 Before separating the outer CV jointfrom the axleshaft assembly, mark the CVjoint housing to the axleshaft so they may bereinstalled in the same position.4 Pry up on the edge of the boot and pullit off the outer CV joint housing (see illustra-tion).5 Using a soft-faced hammer, carefullydrive the outer CV joint off the axleshaft bystriking the outer housing (only) - be carefulnot to damage the splines or the cage (seeillustrations).6 Remove the large retaining circlip fromthe axleshaft then slide off the sealing boot.

Check7 Clean the CV joint thoroughly with sol-vent to remove all grease. Blow the solventout of the joint with compressed air, if avail-able. Warning: Wear eye protection! Check

9.4 Remove the boot from theCV joint housing

for cracks, pitting, scoring and other signs ofwear.8 If there's any evidence of damage orexcessive wear, replace the outer CV joint asan assembly. The outer CV joint is not ser-viceable.

InstallationRefer to illustrations 9.10, 9.12 and 9.149 Pack the CV joint with half of the specialCV joint grease included in the boot kit.10 Wrap the splined end of the axleshaftwith tape to protect the new boot from dam-age during installation (see illustration).Install the new small clamp and new bootonto the axleshaft.11 Remove the tape from the splines andinstall the large retaining circlip. Place theremaining CV joint grease into the sealingboot.12 Install the CV joint assembly onto theaxleshaft aligning the previously appliedmatch-marks. Using a brass hammer, seatthe joint onto the shaft (see illustration).Make sure the CV joint assembly is lockedinto position on the axleshaft by trying to pullit off by hand.

9.5a Use a soft-faced hammer todisengage the outer CV joint from the

axleshaft retaining circlip .. .

9.5b . . . and remove the outer CV jointfrom the axleshaft

13 Wipe any excess grease from the axleboot groove on the CV joint housing. Seat thesmall diameter of the boot in the recessedarea on the axleshaft. Push the other end ofthe boot onto the CV joint housing and move

9.10 Before installing the boot, wrap the axleshaft splines withtape to prevent damaging the boot

9.12 Install the outer CV joint onto the axleshaft, then use a brassdrift and a hammer to seat the CV joint on the axleshaft

8-8 Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

9.14 Tighten the boot clamps using special plier-type crimpers,which are available at most auto parts stores

9.24 Once the boot is detached from the tripod housing, the jointcan be separated

the race in or out until there's no deformation(distortion or dents) in the boot.14 Install the large clamp onto the sealingboot. Secure the sealing boot to the axleshaftand CV joint housing using a special clampcrimping tool as shown (see illustration).These special plier-type crimpers are avail-able at most auto parts stores. Place thecrimping tool over the bridge of the clampand squeeze it together until the tool is fullyclosed.15 Install the driveaxle (see Section 8).

Outer CV joint hub/bearingshieldReplacement16 Remove the driveaxle from the vehicle(see Section 8).17 Mount the driveaxle in a vise with softjaws (to prevent damage to the axleshaft).18 Using a drift and hammer, carefully andevenly drive the hub/bearing shield off theouter CV joint shaft.19 Place the shield onto the axleshaft withthe large diameter facing up. Using an appro-priate size section of pipe and a hammer,drive the shield onto the axleshaft. Be careful

not to cock the hub/bearing shield. Drive itonto the shaft until it is fully seated.20 Install the driveaxle onto the vehicle (seeSection 8).

Inner joint bootDisassemblyRefer to illustrations 9.24, 9.25, 9.26 and 9.2721 Remove the driveaxle from the vehicle(see Section 8).22 Mount the driveaxle in a vise with softjaws (to prevent damage to the axleshaft).Check the CV joint for excessive play in theradial direction, which indicates worn compo-nents. Check for smooth operation through-out the full range of motion for the CV joint.23 Before separating the tripod housingfrom the axleshaft assembly, use a center-punch or equivalent to match-mark the hous-ing to the axleshaft so they may be reinstalledin the same position.24 After removing the boot clamps (seeillustration 9.2), pull the boot back from thetripod housing and slide the it off the spiderassembly (see illustration). Caution: Holdonto the spider assembly bearings as youremove the housing to prevent them from

falling off. If necessary, wrap some tapearound them to secure them in position.25 Use a centerpunch to mark the spider tothe axleshaft so that they can be reassem-bled in the same position (see illustration).26 Remove the snap-ring from the end ofthe axleshaft with a pair of snap-ring pliers(see illustration).27 Use a hammer and a brass drift to drivethe spider assembly from the driveaxle andthen remove the old sealing boot (see illus-tration). Be careful not to strike the spiderassembly bearings.

Check28 Clean all components with solvent toremove the grease, and check for cracks, pit-ting, scoring and other signs of wear.Replacement parts for these driveaxles arenot available, so if any component exhibitsdamage, the entire driveaxle must bereplaced.

ReassemblyRefer to illustration 9.34Caution: The inner tripod joint sealing bootson the vehicles covered in this manual areconstructed from different materials for differ-

9.25 Use a centerpunch to mark (arrows) the tripod spiderto the axleshaft

9.26 Remove the spider retaining snap-ring from the end of theaxleshaft

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles 8-9

9.27 Carefully drive the tripod spider assembly from the axleshaftusing a brass drift and hammer - make sure you don't damage the

bearing surfaces or the splines on the axleshaft

9.34 Equalize the pressure in the boot by inserting a small, dullscrewdriver between the boot and the joint housing

ent temperature applications. High-tempera-ture applications use silicone rubber that issoft and pliable. Standard temperature appli-cations use Hytrel plastic that is stiff and rigid.The replacement boots must be the sametype of material as the sealing boot that wasremoved.29 Wrap the splined end of the axleshaftwith tape to protect the new boot from dam-age during installation (see illustration 9.10).Install the new small clamp and new sealingboot onto the axleshaft. Remove the tapefrom the splines.30 Install the spider assembly onto theaxleshaft aligning the centerpunch match-marks (see illustration 9.25). Install thesnap-ring onto the axleshaft. Note: The snap-ring must be fully seated in it's groove. If nec-essary, use a hammer and brass drift to fully

seat the spider assembly on the axleshaft. Becareful not to strike the spider assembly bear-ings.31 Pack the tripod joint housing with half ofthe special CV joint grease included in theboot kit. Place the remaining CV joint greaseinto the sealing boot.32 Place the tripod housing onto the axle-shaft assembly aligning the previouslyapplied match-marks.33 Slide the sealing boot into place, makingsure both ends seat in their grooves.34 Next, insert a small DULL screwdriver orother small blunt object between the tripodhousing and the sealing boot (see illustra-tion). This will equalize the pressure in theboot during positioning of the axleshaft in thetripod outer housing. Caution: DO NOT dam-age the sealing boot during this procedure!

35 With the sealing boot vented using thescrewdriver (or equivalent), position the axle-shaft so it is in the middle of it's axial travelwithin the tripod housing. Make sure thereare no creases or dents in the sealing bootafter positioning the axleshaft. Remove thescrewdriver from between the housing andsealing boot.36 Install the large clamp onto the sealingboot. Secure the sealing boot to the axleshaftand CV joint housing using a special clampcrimping tool as shown (see illustration9.14). These special plier-type crimpers areavailable at most auto parts stores. Place thecrimping tool over the bridge of the clampand squeeze it together until the tool is fullyclosed.37 Install the driveaxle (see Section 8).

8

8-10 Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

Notes

Chapter 9 BrakesContents

Section SectionAnti-lock Brake System (ABS) - general information.............................2 General information........................................................................ 1Brake check ......................................................................See Chapter 1 Master cylinder - removal, installation and fluid

reservoir replacement............................................................... 8Brake disc - inspection, removal and installation.......................... 5Brake fluid level check......................................................See Chapter 1 Parking brake cables - replacement .............................................. 14Brake hoses and lines - inspection and replacement ....................Brake system - bleeding................................................................

1011

Parking brake lever assembly - removal,installation and adjustment....................................................... 13

Brake light switch - check, replacement and adjustment .............. 15 Power brake booster - check, removal and installation ................. 12Disc brake caliper - removal and installation ................................. 4 Proportioning valves - check and replacement............................. 9Disc brake pads - replacement ...................................................... 3 Wheel cylinder - removal and installation ...................................... 7Drum brake shoes - replacement .................................................. 6

Specifications

GeneralBrake fluid type........................................................................................

Disc brakesBrake pad minimum thickness (metal backing plus lining) .....................Disc lateral runout limit............................................................................Disc minimum thickness..........................................................................Thickness variation ..................................................................................

Drum brakesMinimum brake lining thickness ..............................................................Maximum drum diameter ........................................................................

Torque specificationsBrake booster mounting nuts ..................................................................Brake hose banjo bolt-to-caliper .............................................................Caliper guide pin bolts.............................................................................Master cylinder-to-brake booster mounting nuts....................................Wheel cylinder-to-backing plate mounting nuts .....................................Wheel lug nuts .........................................................................................

See Chapter 1

3/8 inch0.005 inchCast into disc0.0005 inch

1/8 inchCast into drum

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)250 in-lbs3516250 in-lbs97 in-lbsSee Chapter 1

9

9-2 Chapter 9 Brakes

1 General information

GeneralAll models covered by this manual are

equipped with a hydraulically operated brakesystem. The front brakes are disc type andthe rear brakes are drum type. Both braketypes are self-adjusting. Disc brakes auto-matically compensate for pad wear, whiledrum brakes incorporate an adjustmentmechanism which is activated as the brakesare applied.

The hydraulic system is split diagonally -the left front and right rear brakes are on onecircuit; the right front and left rear on theother. If one circuit fails, the other circuit willremain functional and a warning indicator willillu minate on the dashboard when a substan-tial amount of brake fluid is lost, showing thata failure has occurred.

Before disconnecting any electrical con-nector from a vehicle equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), make sure the igni-tion is in the OFF position and the negativebattery cable has been disconnected fromthe ground stud on the left shock tower (seeChapter 5, Section 1). If any weld repair isgoing to be performed on a vehicle equippedwith an ABS system, disconnect the CAB orICU electrical connector (see Section 2) ordamage to the electronics may occur.

CalipersAll disc brakes used by the vehicles

covered in this manual are equipped with adouble-pin floating caliper, a single-pistondesign that "floats" on two steel guide pins.When the brake pedal is depressed,hydraulic pressure pushing on the piston istransmitted to the inner brake pad andagainst the inner surface of the brake disc. Asthe force against the disc from the inner padis increased, the caliper assembly moves in,sliding on the guide pins and pulling the outerpad against the disc, exerting a pinchingforce on the disc.

Master cylinderThe master cylinder is located in the

engine compartment on the power brakebooster, and can be identified by the largefluid reservoir on top. The master cylinder hastwo separate circuits to accommodate thediagonally split system.

Power brake boosterThe power brake booster uses engine

manifold vacuum to provide assistance to thebrakes. It is mounted on the firewall in theengine compartment, directly behind themaster cylinder.

Parking brake systemThe parking brake actuates the rear

brakes via two cables. The parking brakecables pull on a lever attached to the brakeshoe assembly, causing the shoes to expandagainst the drum.

PrecautionsThere are some general precautions

and warnings related to the hydraulic brakesystem:

a) Use only brake fluid conforming to DOT3 specifications.

b) The brake pads and linings may containasbestos fibers which are hazardous toyour health if inhaled. Whenever youwork on brake system components, DONOT blow it out with compressed airand DO NOT inhale it. DO NOT usegasoline or petroleum-based solvents toclean components. Brake systemcleaner should be used to flush the dustinto a drain pan. After the brake compo-nents are cleaned, dispose of the con-taminated rags and cleaner in a labeled,covered container. Do not allow the finedust to become airborne.

c) Safety should be paramount wheneverany servicing of the brake componentsis performed. Do not use parts or fas-teners which are not in perfect condi-tion, and be sure all clearances andtorque specifications are adhered to. Ifyou are at all unsure about a certainprocedure, seek professional advice.Upon completion of any brake systemwork, test the brakes carefully in a con-trolled area before driving the vehicle intraffic.

d) If a problem is suspected in the brakesystem, don't drive the vehicle until it'sbeen corrected.

2 Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) -general information

Description1 The Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) pre-vents wheel lock-up on virtually any road sur-face. Preventing the wheels from locking upmaintains vehicle maneuverability, preservesdirectional stability, and allows optimal decel-eration on all surfaces. How does ABS work?Basically, by monitoring the rotational speedof the wheels and controlling the brake linepressure to the calipers/wheel cylinders ateach wheel.

ComponentsController Anti-lock Brake (CAB)Refer to illustration 2.22 The CAB consists of a pair of micropro-cessors which monitor wheel speeds andcontrol the anti-lock and traction controlfunctions. The CAB receives two identicalsignals and process the information indepen-dently of one another. The results are com-pared to make sure that they agree. If theydon't, the CAB turns off the ABS and tractioncontrol functions, and turns on the warningli ghts. The CAB is located in the engine com-partment on the right hand side and mountednear the windshield washer fluid and coolantreservoirs (see illustration).

2.2 The Controller Anti-lock Brake (arrow)is the brain of the ABS system (1997 and

earlier style shown; on 1998 models,the CAB is mounted on the HCU

Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)Refer to illustration 2.33 The Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) islocated in the engine compartment on theright hand side and mounted to the front sus-pension crossmember (see illustration). TheHCU contains the valve block assembly, fluidaccumulators, the pump/motor assembly andrelay box.

Integrated Control Unit (ICU) - 1998models only4 On 1998 models a new ABS brake sys-tem was introduced which functions verymuch like the previous ABS system except itcombines the HCU and CAB into one unit,called the Integrated Control Unit (ICU). TheICU is located in the same location as theHCU on previous models (see above).

Valve block assembly5 The valve block assembly contains eightvalve/solenoids: four inlet valves and fouroutlet valves. The inlet valves are spring-loaded in the open position and the outletvalves are spring-loaded in the closed posi-tion. During ABS operation, these valves arecycled to maintain the proper slip ratio foreach channel. If a wheel locks, the inlet valveis closed to prevent a further increase inpressure. Simultaneously, the outlet valve isopened to release the pressure back to theaccumulators until the wheel is no longerslipping. Once the wheel no longer slips, theoutlet valve closes and the inlet valve opensto allow pressure to the wheel caliper orwheel cylinder.

Pump/motor assembly6 The pump/motor assembly consists ofan electric motor and a dual-piston pump.The pump provides high-pressure brake fluidto the hydraulic control unit when the ABSsystem is activated.

Fluid accumulators7 The two fluid accumulators locatedinside the HCU are for the primary and sec-ondary hydraulic circuits. The accumulators

Chapter 9 Brakes 9-3

2.3 The Hydraulic Control Unit (arrow) is locatedbelow the power steering pump

2.9 Wheel Speed Sensor (arrow)

temporarily store brake fluid that is blockedduring ABS operation. This fluid is re-routedto the pump.

Proportioning valves8 Refer to Section 9 for a description ofthe proportioning valves.

Wheel Speed Sensors (WSS)Refer to illustration 2.99 A speed sensor is mounted at eachwheel (see illustration). The speed sensorssend variable voltage signals to the HCU.These analog voltage outputs are propor-tional to the speed of rotation of each wheel.

Diagnosis and repair10 The ABS system has self-diagnosticcapabilities. Each time the ignition key isturned to ON, the system runs a self-test. If itfinds a problem, the ABS and traction controlwarning lights come on and remain on. Ifthere's no problem with the system, the lightsgo out after a second or two.11 If the ABS and traction control warningli ghts come on and stay on during vehicleoperation, there is a problem in the ABS

system. Two things now happen: The con-troller stores a diagnostic trouble code (whichcan be displayed with a DRB II scanner at thedealer) and the ABS system is shut down.Once the ABS system is disabled, it willremain disabled until the problem is cor-rected and the trouble code is erased. How-ever, the regular brake system will continueto function normally.12 Although a DRB II scan tool (a specialelectronic tester) is necessary to properlydiagnose the system, you can make a fewpreliminary checks before taking the vehicleto a dealer or other shop for service:

a) Make sure the brake calipers and wheelcylinders are in good condition.

b) Check the electrical connector at theCAB, HCU or ICU as applicable.

c) Check the fuses.d) Follow the wiring harness to the wheel

speed sensors and brake light switchand make sure all connections are clean,secure and the wiring isn't damaged.If the above preliminary checks don't

rectify the problem, the vehicle should bediagnosed by a dealer service department orother qualified repair shop.

3 Disc brake pads - replacement

Refer to illustrations 3.2, 3.3, 3.4a through 3.41Warning: Disc brake pads must be replacedon both front wheels at the same time - neverreplace the pads on only one wheel. Also, thedust created by the brake system may con-tain asbestos, which is harmful to your health.Never blow it out with compressed air anddon't inhale any of it. An approved filteringmask should be worn when working on thebrakes. Do not, under any circumstances, usepetroleum-based solvents to clean brakeparts. Use brake system cleaner only!1 Loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/4-turn, raise the front of the vehicle and supportit securely on jackstands. Apply the parkingbrake. Remove the front wheels.2 Using a syringe or equivalent, siphonapproximately two-thirds of the fluid from themaster cylinder reservoir and discard it. Posi-tion a drain pan under the brake assemblyand clean the caliper and surrounding areawith brake system cleaner (see illustration).3 Push the piston back into its bore usinga C-clamp (see illustration). As the piston is

9

3.2 Always wash the brakes with brake systemcleaner before working on them

3.3 Use a C-clamp to press the caliper piston into its bore

9-4 Chapter 9 Brakes

3.4a To remove the front brake caliper,remove the two guide pin bolts (arrows)

3.4b Lift the caliper off the steeringknuckle and remove the outer

pad from the caliper

3.4c Remove the inner padfrom the caliper

3.4d If you're not going to reinstall thecaliper any time soon, hang it from theupper control arm with a piece of wire

or equivalent - don't let it hangby the brake hose

depressed to the bottom of the caliper bore,the fluid in the master cylinder will rise as thebrake fluid is displaced. Make sure it doesn'toverflow. If necessary, siphon off more of thefluid. Warning: Never siphon brake fluid bymouth!4 To replace the brake pads, followthe accompanying photos, beginning with

illustration 3.4a. Be sure to stay in order andread the caption under each illustration.5 While the pads are removed, inspect thecaliper for brake fluid leaks and ruptures ofthe piston dust boot. Replace the caliper ifnecessary (see Section 4). Also inspect thebrake disc carefully (see Section 5). Ifmachining is necessary, follow the informa-tion in that Section to remove the disc.Inspect the brake hoses for damage andreplace if necessary (see Section 10).

3.4f Remove the bushing boots, inspectthem for damage and replace if necessary

6 Before installing the caliper guide pinbolts, clean and check them for corrosionand damage. If they're significantly corrodedor damaged, replace them. Be sure to tightenthe caliper guide pin bolts to the torque listedin this Chapter's Specification Section.7 Repeat the procedure for the oppositewheel, then install the wheels, lug nuts andlower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts to thetorque listed in the Chapter 1 SpecificationSection. Add the appropriate brake fluid to

3.4e Remove the guide pin bushings

3.4g Lubricate the guide pin bushingswith multi-purpose grease before

installing them

3.4h Apply an anti-squeal compound tothe backs of the pads where they mate

with the caliper and piston

3.4i Install the inner brake pad - makesure the retaining spring is fully

seated into the piston bore

Chapter 9 Brakes 9-5

3.4j Install the outer brake pad - make surethe retaining spring is properly engaged

with the caliper body and the wearindicator (arrow) on the pad is positioned

at the top of the caliper as shown

the reservoir until it's full (see Chapter 1 ifnecessary).8 Pump the brakes several times to seatthe pads against the disc, then check thebrake fluid level in the reservoir again. Top itup as necessary.9 Carefully test the operation of thebrakes before resuming normal operation.Try to avoid heavy brake applications untilthe brakes have been applied lightly severaltimes to seat the pads.

4 Disc brake caliper - removal andinstallation

Warning: Dust created by the brake systemmay contain asbestos, which is harmful toyour health. Never blow it out with com-pressed air and don't inhale any of it. Anapproved filtering mask should be worn whenworking on the brakes. Do not, under any cir-cumstances, use petroleum-based solventsto clean brake parts. Use brake systemcleaner only.Note: If replacement is indicated (usuallybecause of fluid leaks, a stuck piston or bro-ken bleed screw) explore all options beforebeginning this procedure. New and factoryrebuilt calipers are available on an exchangebasis, which makes this job quite easy.Always replace the calipers in pairs - neverreplace just one of them.

Removal1 Loosen the front wheel lug nuts, raisethe vehicle and support it securely on jack-stands. Remove the front wheels.2 Unscrew the banjo bolt from the caliperand detach the hose. Note: If you're justremoving the caliper for access to other com-ponents, don't disconnect the hose. Discardthe sealing washers on each side of the fittingand use new ones during installation. Plug thehose to prevent fluid loss and contamination.3 Refer to the first few steps in Section 3(caliper removal is the first part of the brake

3.4k Place the caliper/brake padassembly onto the steering knuckle

(make sure the upper ends ofthe pads seat properly)

pad replacement procedure). Clean thecaliper assembly with brake system cleaner.Warning: DO NOT, under any circumstances,use kerosene, gasoline or petroleum-basedsolvents to clean brake parts! Be sure tocheck the pads as well and replace them ifnecessary (see Section 3).

Installation4 Install the brake pads and caliper (seeSection 3). Tighten the caliper guide pin boltsto the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifi-cation Section.5 Connect the brake hose to the caliperusing new sealing washers. Tighten the banjobolt to the torque listed in this Chapter'sSpecification Section.6 Firmly depress the brake pedal a fewtimes to bring the pads into contact with thedisc. Check the fluid level in the master cylin-der reservoir and add more if necessary.7 Bleed the brakes (see Section 11).8 Install the wheels and lug nuts. Lowerthe vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to thetorque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications.9 Carefully check for fluid leaks and testthe operation of the brakes before resumingnormal operation.

5.2 The brake pads on this vehicle wereobviously neglected, as they wore downto the rivets, then cut deep grooves intothe disc, which must now be replaced

3.41 Install the guide pin bolts and tightenthem to the torque listed in this

Chapter's Specifications

5 Brake disc - inspection, removaland installation

InspectionRefer to illustrations 5.2, 5.3, 5.4a and 5.4b1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts 1/4-turn,raise the front of the vehicle and support itsecurely on jackstands. Apply the parkingbrake. Remove the front wheels. Reinstall thelug nuts to hold the disc firmly against thehub. Note: Washers may be required.2 Remove the brake caliper (see Sec-tion 4). Visually inspect the disc surface forscore marks and other damage (see illustra-tion). Light scratches and shallow groovesare normal after use and won't affect brakeoperation. Deep grooves - over 0.015-inchdeep - require disc removal and refinishingby an automotive machine shop. Be sure tocheck both sides of the disc.3 To check the disc runout, place a dialindicator at a point about 1/2-inch from theouter edge of the disc (see illustration).Rotate the disc until you find the lowest pointon the disc. Set the dial indicator to zero andturn the disc again. The indicator readingshould not exceed the runout limit listed inthis Chapter's Specification Section. Check

5.3 Use a dial indicator to check discrunout - if the reading exceeds thespecified runout limit, the disc willhave to be machined or replaced

9-6 Chapter 9 Brakes

the runout on both sides of the disc. If therunout exceeds specification, the disc mustbe refinished by an automotive machineshop. Note: Professionals recommend resur-facing the brake discs regardless of the dialindicator reading (to produce a smooth, flatsurface that will eliminate brake pedal pulsa-tions and other undesirable symptoms relatedto questionable discs). At the very least, if youelect not to have the discs resurfaced,deglaze them with sandpaper or emery cloth.4 The disc must not be machined to athickness less than the specified minimumthickness. The minimum (or discard) thick-ness is cast into the disc (see illustration).The disc thickness should be checked with amicrometer (see illustration).

RemovalRefer to illustration 5.75 Loosen the wheel lug nuts 1/4-turn,raise the vehicle and place it securely onjackstands. Remove the wheel.6 Remove the caliper (see Section 4).7 Remove the retaining clips, if present,from the wheel studs (see illustration).8 Pull the disc off the hub.

Installation9 Installation is the reverse of removal.Make sure you tighten the caliper guide pinbolts to the torque listed in this Chapter'sSpecification Section. Tighten the lug nuts tothe torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifica-tions.

6 Drum brake shoes - replacement

Refer to illustrations 6.2, 6.4a through 6.4vand 6.5Warning: Drum brake shoes must bereplaced on both wheels at the same time -never replace the shoes on only one wheel.Also, the dust created by the brake systemmay contain asbestos, which is harmful toyour health. Never blow it out with com-pressed air and don't inhale any of it. An

5.4a The minimum thickness is cast intothe inside of the disc

approved filtering mask should be worn whenworking on the brakes. Do not, under any cir-cumstances, use petroleum-based solventsto clean brake parts. Use brake systemcleaner only!Caution: Whenever the brake shoes arereplaced, the hold-down springs should alsobe replaced. Due to the continuousheating/cooling cycle that the springs aresubjected to, they lose their tension over aperiod of time and may allow the shoes todrag on the drum and wear at a much fasterrate than normal.1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts 1/4-turn,raise the rear of the vehicle and support itsecurely on jackstands. Block the frontwheels to keep the vehicle from rolling.Release the parking brake. Remove thewheel. Note: The brake shoes on both wheelsmust be replaced at the same time. The drumbrake assemblies on these models are uniquefor each side of the vehicle (left hand only -right hand only) so to avoid mixing up parts,service one brake assembly at a time.2 Remove the brake drum. If the drumwon't come off, the brake shoes must beretracted from their fully adjusted position byinserting a screwdriver through the adjusterhole in the backing plate. Locate the adjuster

5.4b Use a micrometer to measure thethickness of the disc at several locations

5.7 Cut off and discard the disc retainingwashers, if present (it isn't necessary

to reinstall them)

access hole and remove the plug. Insert ascrewdriver through the access hole andengage the adjuster quadrant teeth. Usingthe screwdriver, move the adjuster quadrantteeth fully toward the FRONT of the vehicle.The drum should now come off. Wash thebrake assembly with brake system cleaner(see illustration).

6.2 Before disassembling the brake shoe assembly, spray it withbrake cleaner to remove brake dust; DO NOT blow brake

dust off with compressed air

6.4a Using locking pliers, grasp the lower return spring anddetach it from the leading brake shoe (left hand

brake assembly shown

Chapter 9 Brakes 9-7

6.4b Remove the lower return spring -note that the shorter spring end is

towards the trailing brake shoe

6.4c Using locking pliers, grasp the upperreturn spring and detach it from the

trailing brake shoe

6.4d Unhook the upper return spring fromthe leading brake shoe

6.4e Using locking pliers, detach theautomatic self-adjuster spring

from the adjuster

3 Remove the wheel hub/bearing assembly(see Chapter 10). Note: Removal of the wheelhub/bearing assembly is not mandatory, but itmakes the job a lot easier.4 Follow illustrations 6.4a through 6.4vfor inspection and replacement of the brake

6.4f Compress the retaining clip,remove the pin .. .

shoes. Be sure to stay in order and read thecaption under each illustration.5 Before reinstalling the drum, carefullyexamine it for cracks, score marks, deepscratches and hard spots, which will appearas small discolored areas. If the hard spots

6.4g . . . and separate the leading brakeshoe and the automatic self-adjuster

from the backing plate

cannot be removed with fine emery cloth or ifany of the other conditions listed above exist,the drum must be taken to an automotivemachine shop to have it resurfaced. Note:Professionals recommend resurfacing thedrums whenever a brake job is performed.

6.4h To remove the adjuster from the shoe, pull it outward, thenrotate it toward the reinforced side of the shoe 6.4i Compress the retaining clip, then remove the pin

and clip from the trailing shoe

LEADING BRAKESHOE ASSEMBLY

FULLY EXTEND ADJUSTERIN THIS DIRECTION ROTATE

THISDIRECTION

AUTOMATIC SELFADJUSTER MECHANISM

9-8 Chapter 9 Brakes

6.4j Detach the parking brake cable fromthe actuating lever - DO NOT try to

separate the actuating leverfrom the brake shoe

6.4m Correctly position the trailing shoein place on the backing plate (parking

brake actuating lever toward theinside) and secure it with a new

pin and retaining clip

Resurfacing will eliminate the possibility ofout-of-round drums. If the drums are worn somuch that they can't be resurfaced withoutexceeding the maximum allowable diameter

6.4k Before installing the brake shoes,apply a small amount of high-temperaturegrease to all areas where the brake shoes

make contact with the backing plate

(stamped into the drum) (see illustration),then new ones will be required. At the veryleast, if you elect not to have the drums resur-faced, remove the glazing from the surfacewith emery cloth or sandpaper using aswirling motion.6 Install the wheel hub/bearing assembly

6.41 Obtain the correct replacementtrailing brake shoe (they are unique for

each side of the vehicle, RH or LH and theparking brake actuating lever should be

permanently attached) and install theparking brake cable onto the

actuating lever

6.4n Inspect the automatic self-adjuster for damage and replace if

necessary1 Knurled pin - check to see it is

firmly attached and the teeth arenot damaged or excessively worn

2 Quadrant spring - inspect fordamage and verify it hasn't lostit's tension

3 Quadrant - verify the quadrant isfree to slide within its mountingslot and can rotate through theentire tooth range

(with a new hub nut), if removed (see Chap-ter 10).7 Install the brake drum, mount the wheeland install the lug nuts.8 Repeat the procedure for the oppositewheel.9 Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug

LUBRICATE THISSURFACE BETWEEN AUTOMATIC SELF

QUADRANT AND STRUTKNURLED

ADJUSTER MECHANISMOF ADJUSTER MECHANISM PIN

STRUT

QUADRANTSPRING

6.4o Before installing the adjuster on the leading brake shoe,lubricate the area between the quadrant and the adjuster

strut with a small amount of multi-purpose grease

6.4p Install the automatic self-adjuster onto the proper leadingbrake shoe (they are unique for each side of the vehicle, RH or LHand are marked on the reinforcement plate) - after installation thequadrant teeth should be on the reinforced side of the brake shoe

Chapter 9 Brakes 9-9

6.4q Place the leading brake shoe (withadjuster installed) in position on the

backing plate, making sure to match upthe notch in the adjuster strut with the

notch in the trailing brake shoe

nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1Specifications.10 To adjust the brakes, start the engineand fully depress the brake pedal two orthree times to activate the automaticadjusters.11 Carefully test brake operation beforedriving the vehicle in traffic.

7 Wheel cylinder - removal andinstallation

Note: If replacement is warranted (usuallybecause of fluid leakage or sticky operation)explore all options before beginning the job.New wheel cylinders are available, whichmakes this job quite easy. Never replace onlyone wheel cylinder. Always replace both ofthem at the same time.

RemovalRefer to illustration 7.21 Remove the rear brake shoes (see Sec-tion 6).2 Using a flare-nut wrench (if available)disconnect the brake line fitting from the rear

6.4r Install the new pin and retaining clip

6.4t Install the adjuster spring into thetrailing brake shoe, then attach

it to the adjuster

of the wheel cylinder (see illustration). Plugthe end of the brake line to prevent fluid lossand contamination.3 Remove the two bolts securing thewheel cylinder to the backing plate andremove the wheel cylinder.

Installation4 Installation is the reverse of removal.

6.4s Compress the retaining clipand turn the pin 90-degrees to

retain the brake shoe

Tighten the wheel cylinder mounting bolts tothe torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica-tions. Tighten the line fitting securely.5 Install the brake shoes, wheel hub/bear-ing assembly, if removed (with a new hub nut)and brake drum (see Section 6).6 Bleed the brakes (see Section 11). Care-fully test brake operation before resumingnormal operation.

6.4u Install the upper return spring

6.4v Install the lower return spring,positioned as shown

6.5 The maximum allowable diameter isstamped into the drum (arrow)

7.2 Disconnecting the brake hose fitting(arrow) from the wheel cylinder

9-10 Chapter 9 Brakes

8.2 Cruise control servo mountingnuts (arrows)

8 Master cylinder - removal,installation and fluid reservoirreplacement

Note: The master cylinder used on thesevehicles is not serviceable and must bereplaced as a unit. However, you can replacethe fluid reservoir and/or reservoir sealinggrommets.RemovalRefer to illustrations 8.2, 8.5, 8.6 and 8.81 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1). With the ignitionswitch in the OFF position, pump the brakepedal until a firm pedal is achieved.2 If equipped, disconnect the cruise con-trol electrical connector and detach thecruise control servo from its mounting on theshock tower and position it out of the way(see illustration).3 Using a syringe or equivalent, siphon thebrake fluid from the master cylinder reservoirand dispose of it properly. Caution: Brakefluid will damage paint. Cover all painted sur-faces and avoid spilling fluid during this pro-cedure.4 Place rags under the brake line fittingsand prepare caps or plastic bags to cover theends of the lines once they're disconnected.5 Loosen the tube nuts at the ends of thebrake lines where they enter the master cylin-der (see illustration). To prevent rounding offthe corners of these fittings, a flare-nutwrench, which wraps around the nut, shouldbe used. Pull the brake lines away from themaster cylinder slightly and plug the ends toprevent leakage and contamination. Alsoplug the openings in the master cylinder toprevent fluid spillage.6 Unhook the clip and unplug the electri-cal connector from the brake fluid level sen-sor (see illustration).7 Clean the area where the master cylin-der attaches to the vacuum booster usingbrake system cleaner.8 Remove the two master cylinder mount-ing nuts (see illustration) and any bracketsthat may be attached. Slide the master

8.5 Disconnect the brake line fittings witha flare-nut wrench (ABS-equippedmodels have two line fittings, while

non-ABS models have four)

cylinder off the studs and remove it from thevehicle.

InstallationNote: Read this entire procedure beforebeginning this operation.9 Install the master cylinder onto thepower brake booster making sure to engagethe operating rod. Install any brackets asnecessary and tighten the mounting nutssecurely.10 Before installing the brake lines to themaster cylinder, it should be bled. Sinceyou'll have to apply pressure to the mastercylinder piston and at the same time, controlflow from the brake line outlets, the aid of anassistant will be required.11 Insert threaded plugs into the brake lineoutlet holes and snug them down so no airwill leak past them, but not so tight that theycan't be easily loosened.12 Fill the reservoir with the recommendedbrake fluid (see Chapter 1).13 Place a suitable container under one ofthe plugs and remove the plug. Have yourassistant SLOWLY depress the brake pedalto expel the air from the master cylinder. Usea rag to catch any brake fluid that squirts out.A clear plastic bag placed over the mastercylinder will help you guide the expelled fluidfor collection and prevent it from squirting inunwanted areas.14 To prevent air from being drawn backinto the master cylinder, place your fingertightly over the hole to keep air from beingdrawn back into the master cylinder beforereleasing the brake pedal. Wait several sec-onds for brake fluid to be drawn from thereservoir into the bore, then depress thebrake pedal again, removing your finger asbrake fluid is expelled. Be sure to put yourfinger firmly back over the hole each timebefore releasing the piston, and when thebleeding procedure is complete for that out-let, install the plug (with the pedal depressed)and tighten it before going on to the nextport.15 Repeat the procedure until only brakefluid is expelled from the brake line outlet

8.6 Unhook the retaining clip and unplugthe electrical connector from the brake

fluid level sensor

hole. When only brake fluid is ' expelled,repeat the procedure at the other outlets. Besure to keep the master cylinder reservoirfilled with brake fluid to prevent the introduc-tion of air into the system.16 Loosen the master cylinder mountingnuts and connect the brake lines into themaster cylinder. Since the master cylinder isa bit loose, it can be moved slightly so the fit-tings can thread in easily.17 Tighten the master cylinder mountingnuts to the torque given in this Chapter'sSpecification Section. Tighten the fitting nutssecurely.18 If equipped, install the cruise controlservo onto the shock tower and plug in theelectrical connector.19 Fill the master cylinder reservoir with therecommended fluid (see Chapter 1), thenbleed the brake hydraulic system (see Sec-tion 11).

Fluid reservoir replacementRefer to illustration 8.2220 Using a syringe or equivalent, siphon thebrake fluid from the master cylinder reservoirand dispose of it properly.

8.8 To detach the master cylinder fromthe power brake booster, remove themounting nuts (arrows), then pull the

master cylinder assembly straightoff the mounting studs

Chapter 9 Brakes 9-11

8.22 The brake fluid reservoir is secured and sealedto the master cylinder by the grommets

9.5 On non-ABS models, the proportioning valves are located onthe right side of the front suspension crossmember

21 Disconnect the brake fluid level sensorelectrical connector from the reservoir (seeillustration 8.6).22 To remove the reservoir, carefully rock itback-and-forth while gently pulling upward(see illustration).23 After removing the reservoir, carefullyremove the grommets from the master cylin-der. Note: New grommets should be installedanytime the reservoir is detached from themaster cylinder.24 Remove the brake fluid level sensorfrom the reservoir.25 Installation is the reverse of removal.Coat the new grommets with clean brakefluid prior to installation.

9 Proportioning valves - check andreplacement

Description1 All models have two proportioningvalves that balance front-to-rear braking bycontrolling the increase in rear systemhydraulic pressure above a preset level.Under light pedal pressure, the valve allowsfull hydraulic pressure to the front and rearbrakes. But above a certain pressure - knownas the "split point" - the proportioning valvereduces the amount of pressure increase tothe rear brakes in accordance with a prede-termined ratio. This lessens the chance ofrear wheel lock-up and skidding.

Check2 If either rear wheel skids prematurelyunder hard braking, it could indicate a defec-tive proportioning valve. If this occurs, havethe system checked out by your local dealerservice department. A pair of special pres-sure gauges and fittings are required forproper diagnosis of the proportioning valves.While diagnosis is beyond the scope of thehome mechanic, you may still save money byreplacing the valves yourself.

ReplacementNon-ABS modelsRefer to illustration 9.53 Loosen the right front wheel lug nuts,raise the front of the vehicle and support itsecurely on jackstands. Remove the wheel.4 Remove the accessory drivebelt splashshield (see Chapter 1).5 Loosen the brake hydraulic fluid linesfrom the proportioning valve with a flare-nutwrench to prevent rounding off the corners ofthe fittings (see illustration). Back off the fit-tings and remove the valve from the line. Plugthe ends of the lines to prevent loss of brakefluid and the entry of dirt.6 Installation is the reverse of removal.7 Bleed the brakes (see Section 11). Care-fully test the brakes before resuming normaloperation.

1995 to 1997 models with ABSRefer to illustration 9.88 If your vehicle was manufacturedbetween 1995 and 1997 and equipped with

ABS, the proportioning valves are mountedto the HCU (see illustration) and uponremoval, the ABS system will be required tobe bled using a DRB scan tool. We recom-mend you let your local dealer servicedepartment or other qualified repair shopreplace the proportioning valves on thesemodels.

1998 and later models with ABSRefer to illustration 9.109 Loosen the appropriate rear wheel lugnuts, raise the rear of the vehicle and supportit securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel.10 Loosen the line fitting from the propor-tioning valve with a flare-nut wrench to pre-vent rounding off the corners of the fittings(see illustration). Be sure to hold the valvewith another wrench to prevent the line fromtwisting.11 Detach the brake hose bracket from theupper frame rail.12 Unscrew the valve from the brake hoseand plug the ends of the lines to preventleakage and contamination.

9.8 On 1995 to 1997 models equippedwith ABS, the proportioning valves

(arrows) are threaded into the HydraulicControl Unit which is mounted on the rightside of the front suspension crossmember

9.10 On 1998 and later models equippedwith ABS, the proportioning valves are

located in the rear wheel well andmounted on the upper frame rail betweenthe metal brake line and the brake hose

9

9-12 Chapter 9 Brakes

13 Installation is the reverse of removal. Fitthe metal line to the proportioning valvebefore attaching the brake hose bracket tothe upper frame rail.14 Bleed the brakes (see Section 11). Care-fully test brake operation before resumingnormal operation.

10 Brake hoses and lines -inspection and replacement

1 Whenever the vehicle is raised and sup-ported securely on jackstands, the rubberhoses which connect the steel brake lines withthe front and rear brake assemblies should beinspected for cracks, chafing of the outercover, leaks, blisters and other damage. Theseare important and vulnerable parts of thebrake system and inspection should be thor-ough. A light and mirror will be helpful for acomplete check. If a hose exhibits any of theabove conditions, renew it immediately.

Flexible hose replacementRefer to illustration 10.32 Clean all dirt away from the hose fit-tings.3 Using a flare-nut wrench, disconnect themetal brake line from the hose fitting (seeillustration). Be careful not to bend the framebracket or line. If the threaded fitting is cor-roded, spray it with penetrating oil and allowit to soak in for about 10 minutes, then tryagain. If you try to break loose a fitting nutthat's frozen, you will kink the metal line,which will then have to be replaced.4 Remove the brake hose from thebracket (some are secured to a bracket witha retaining clip, others have an integralbracket/fitting). Detach the brake hose fromthe bracket or bracket from the vehicle asapplicable. Immediately plug the metal line toprevent excessive leakage and contamina-tion. Note: On 1998 and later models withABS, see Section 9 for rear brake hose-to-proportioning valve separation.5 On the rear brake hose(s), use a flare-nut wrench to loosen the hose fitting at thewheel cylinder and remove the hose.6 On the front brake hose(s), unscrew thebanjo bolt at the caliper and remove thehose, discarding the sealing washers oneither side of the fitting.7 Attach the new brake hose to the caliperor wheel cylinder as applicable. Note: Whenreplacing the front brake hoses, always usenew sealing washers. Tighten the banjo boltor tube nut to the torque listed this Chapter'sSpecification Section.8 Insert the other end of the new hosethrough the bracket or loosely attach the fit-ting/bracket to the vehicle as applicable mak-ing sure the hose isn't kinked or twisted.Then fit the metal line to the hose (or hose fit-ting), tighten the hose bracket (if applicable)and tighten the brake tube fitting nut to thetorque listed this Chapter's Specifications.

10.3 Disconnecting the front brake hosefrom the metal brake line using a

flare-nut wrench

9 Carefully check to make sure the sus-pension or steering components don't makecontact with the hose. Have an assistantpush down on the vehicle while you watch tosee whether the hose interferes with suspen-sion operation. If you're replacing a fronthose, have your assistant turn the steeringwheel lock-to-lock while you make sure thehose doesn't interfere with the steering link-age or the steering knuckle.10 After installation, check the mastercylinder fluid level and add fluid as neces-sary. Bleed the brakes (see Section 11).Carefully test brake operation before resum-ing normal operation.

Metal brake lines11 When replacing brake lines, be sure touse the correct parts. Do not use copper tub-ing for any brake system components. Pur-chase steel brake lines from a dealer partsdepartment or auto parts store.12 Prefabricated brake line, with the tubeends already flared and fittings installed, isavailable at auto parts stores and dealer partsdepartments. These lines are also sometimesbent to the proper shapes. If it is necessary tobend a line, use a tubing bender to preventkinking the line.13 When installing the new line make sureit's well supported in the brackets and hasplenty of clearance between moving or hotcomponents. Make sure you tighten the fit-tings securely.14 After installation, check the mastercylinder fluid level and add fluid as neces-sary. Bleed the brakes (see Section 11).Carefully test brake operation before resum-ing normal operation.

11 Brake system - bleeding

Refer to illustration 11.9Warning: Wear eye protection when bleedingthe brake system. If the fluid comes in con -

11.9 When bleeding the brakes, a hose isconnected to the bleed screw at the

caliper or wheel cylinder and thensubmerged in clean brake fluid - air

will be seen as bubbles exitingthe tube (all air must be expelledbefore moving to the next wheel)

tact with your eyes, i mmediately rinse themwith water and seek medical attention.Note: Bleeding the brake system is necessaryto remove any air that's trapped in the systemwhen it's opened during removal and installa-tion of a hose, line, caliper, wheel cylinder ormaster cylinder.1 If a brake line was disconnected only ata wheel, then only that caliper or wheel cylin-der must be bled.2 On conventional (non-ABS) brake sys-tems, if air has entered the system due to lowfluid level or master cylinder replacement, allfour brakes must be bled. Warning: If thishas occurred on a model with an Anti-lockBrake System (ABS), or if the lines to theHydraulic Control Unit or Integrated ControlUnit (1998 models) have been disconnected,the vehicle must be towed to a dealer servicedepartment or other repair shop equippedwith a DRB Il scan tool to have the systemproperly bled.3 If a brake line is disconnected at a fittinglocated between the master cylinder and anyof the brakes, that part of the system servedby the disconnected line must be bled.4 Remove any residual vacuum from thebrake power booster by applying the brakeseveral times with the engine OFF.5 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands. Note: The wheels do not haveto be removed for this process.6 Remove the master cylinder reservoircover and fill the reservoir with brake fluid.Reinstall the cover. Note: Check the fluidlevel often during the bleeding operation andadd fluid as necessary to prevent the fluidlevel from falling low enough to allow air bub-bles into the master cylinder.7 Have an assistant on hand, as well as asupply of new brake fluid, an empty clearcontainer, a length of clear plastic or vinyltubing to fit over the bleed screw and a box-

Chapter 9 Brakes 9-13

12.16 Power brake booster mounting details(as viewed from under the dash)

1 Brake pedal-to-booster pushrod retaining clip (DO NOT reuse)2 Power brake booster mounting nuts (the lower left nut is hidden

behind steering intermediate shaft)

PURGE\SOLENOID

ELECTRICALCONNECTOR

12.9 The purge solenoid is located on the left shock tower

end wrench to open and close the bleedscrew.8 Beginning at the left rear wheel, removethe bleed screw dust cap. Loosen the bleedscrew slightly, then tighten it to a point whereit's snug but can still be loosened quickly andeasily. Use the box-end wrench to avoidrounding off the bleed screw wrenching flats.9 With the wrench in place on the bleedscrew, attach one end of the tubing over thebleed screw fitting and submerge the otherend in a clear container filled with about 1inch of new brake fluid (see illustration).10 Have the assistant slowly push down onthe brake pedal and hold it firmly depressed.11 While the pedal is held depressed, openthe bleed screw just enough to allow a flow offluid to leave the valve. Watch for air bubblesto exit the submerged end of the tube. Whenthe fluid flow slows after a couple of seconds,tighten the screw and have your assistantslowly release the pedal.12 Repeat Steps 10 and 11 until no moreair is seen leaving the tube, then tighten thebleed screw securely and proceed to theright front wheel, the right rear wheel and theleft front wheel, in that order, and perform thesame procedure. Be sure to check the fluid inthe master cylinder reservoir frequently.13 NEVER use old brake fluid. Brake fluidabsorbs moisture from the atmosphere.When moisture is present in the hydraulicsystem, it will deteriorate the brake systemcomponents and lower the boiling point ofthe fluid which could lead to brake failure.14 After bleeding the system, top up thebrake fluid reservoir and reinstall the bleedscrew dust caps.15 Check the operation of the brakes. Thepedal should feel solid when depressed, withno sponginess. If necessary, repeat thebleeding process. Check for leakage. Warn-ing: Do not operate the vehicle if the pedalfeels low or spongy, if the ABS light on thedash won't go off, or if you are in doubt aboutthe effectiveness of the brake system.

12 Power brake booster - check,removal and installation

Operating check1 Depress the brake pedal several timeswith the engine off and make sure that thereis no change in the pedal reserve distance.2 Depress the pedal and start the engine.If the pedal goes down slightly, operation isnormal.

Airtightness check3 Start the engine and turn it off after oneor two minutes. Depress the brake pedal sev-eral times slowly. If the pedal goes down far-ther the first time but gradually rises after thesecond or third depression, the booster is air-tight.4 Depress the brake pedal while theengine is running, then stop the engine withthe pedal depressed. If there is no change inthe pedal reserve travel after holding thepedal for 30 seconds, the booster is airtight.

RemovalRefer to illustrations 12.9 and 12.165 The power brake booster unit requiresno special maintenance apart from periodicinspection of the vacuum hoses and thecase. The booster is not serviceable. If aproblem develops, it must be replaced with anew one.6 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1). Remove the airintake resonator and the related ductingbetween the throttle body and the air cleaner(see Chapter 4).7 If equipped, unplug the cruise controlservo electrical connector. Detach the unitfrom the shock tower and position it out ofthe way (see illustration 8.2).

8 On models with a V6 engine, remove thethrottle body from the intake manifold (seeChapter 4). Detach the accelerator cablebracket from the intake manifold and positionit out of the way (the cable(s) may remainattached to bracket).9 Label and detach the electrical connec-tor and vacuum hose from the purge solenoid(see illustration). Remove the purgesolenoid from the vehicle.10 Disconnect the vacuum hose(s) from thepower brake booster vacuum fitting.11 Label and disconnect the vacuum hosesand electrical connector from the EGR valvetransducer (see Chapter 6). Remove the EGRvalve transducer.12 Disconnect the fluid level sensor con-nector from the master cylinder reservoir (seeillustration 8.6).13 On models with a four-cylinder engine, itis not necessary to disconnect the brake linesfrom the master cylinder; simply remove themounting nuts (see illustration 8.8) and slidethe master cylinder off the studs and let it reston the top of the transaxle (just make sureyou don't kink the metal brake lines).14 On models with a V6 engine, remove themaster cylinder from the vehicle (see Section8).15 On V6 models equipped with an auto -

matic transaxle, remove the transaxle fluiddipstick tube. Cover the dipstick tube hole inthe transaxle with duct tape to prevent theentry of foreign debris.16 Working inside the vehicle under thedash, disconnect the power brake pushrodfrom the top of the brake pedal by prying offthe retaining clip (see illustration). For safetyreasons, discard the old pushrod retainingclip and buy a new clip for reassembly.17 Remove the nuts attaching the boosterto the firewall (see illustration 12.16).18 Working inside the engine compart-ment, carefully withdraw the power brakebooster unit from the firewall and out of theengine compartment.

9

9-14 Chapter 9 Brakes

Installation19 To install the booster, place it into posi-tion on the firewall and tighten the retainingnuts to the torque listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications. Connect the pushrod to thebrake pedal. Warning: Use a new retainerclip. DO NOT reuse the old clip.20 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal.21 If the master cylinder was removed fromthe vehicle, bleed the brake hydraulic system(see Section 11).22 Carefully test the operation of thebrakes before placing the vehicle in normaloperation.

13.3 Parking brake leverdetails

1 Output cableadjusting nut

2 Output cableretaining clip(DO NOT reuse)

3 Rear cable tensionequalizer

13 Parking brake lever assembly -removal, installation andadjustment

RemovalRefer to illustrations 13.3 and 13.61 Remove the center console (see Chap-ter 11).2 Place the parking brake lever in the fullyreleased position (down).3 Loosen the adjusting nut on the outputcable (see illustration).4 Using a screwdriver, pry the outputcable retaining clip (see illustration 13.3)from the rear cable tension equalizer anddetach the output cable. Discard the old clip,it is not to be reused. Note: If the parkingbrake lever assembly is going to be replaced,ignore this step.5 Disconnect both rear brake cables fromthe cable tension equalizer (see illustration13.3).6 Unplug the electrical connector from theparking brake warning light switch (see illus-tration).7 Remove the fasteners attaching theparking brake lever assembly to the centerconsole bracket.8 Remove the parking brake lever and thefront output cable as an assembly.

Installation9 Installation is the reverse of removal.Install a new cable tension equalizer and out-put cable retaining clip. Be sure the outputcable retaining clip is firmly attached afterinstallation. Before installing the center con-sole, perform the parking brake cable adjust-ment procedure below.

AdjustmentRefer to illustration 13.12Note: Anytime the parking brake cablerequires adjustment, the cable tension equal-izer must be replaced to ensure properadjustment.10 Remove the center console (see Chap-ter 11).11 Place the parking brake lever in the fullyreleased position (down).

12 Tighten the output cable adjusting nutuntil 12 mm (approximately 7/16 to 1/2 inch)of threads are protruding from the nut (seeillustration).13 Pull the lever back as far as it will travel -one time only. Fully actuating the lever in thismanner stretches the portion of the cabletensioner which automatically provides thecorrect tension on the cables.14 After adjustment, verify that the rearbrakes are not dragging on the drums andthe parking brake lever does not exhibit anyfreeplay. If either condition exists, tighten orloosen the output cable adjusting nut asrequired.15 Install the center console (see Chapter11).

14 Parking brake cables -replacement

Front cableNote: Anytime the parking brake cables arereplaced or require adjustment, the cable ten-sion equalizer must be replaced to ensureproper adjustment.Replacement1 The front output cable is an integral partof the parking brake lever assembly and

13.6 Parking brake warning lightelectrical connector

cannot be replaced separately. If the outputcable requires replacement, replace the park-ing brake lever assembly (see Section 13).

Rear cablesRemovalRefer to illustrations 14.8, 14.10, 14.11,14.13, 14.14 and 14.152 Remove the center console (see Chap-ter 11).3 Place the parking brake lever in the fullyreleased position (down).4 Loosen the adjusting nut on the outputcable (see illustration 13.3).5 Using a screwdriver, pry the outputcable retaining clip (see illustration 13.3)from the rear cable tension equalizer anddetach the output cable. Discard the old clip- it is not to be reused.6 Disconnect both rear brake cables fromthe cable tension equalizer (see illustration13.3).7 Remove the rear seat assembly (seeChapter 11).8 Remove the rear door sill scuff plate oneach side (see illustration).9 Fold the rear carpeting forward toexpose the parking brake cables.10 Remove the parking brake cable routingclip from the floor pan (see illustration).11 Compress the retaining tabs of the

13.12 Tighten the output cable adjustingnut onto the cable until 12 mm ofthreads are exposed as shown

Chapter 9 Brakes 9-15

REAR PARKBRAKE CABLES

14.8 Carefully pry off the rear door sill plates fromeach rear door jam

14.10 Parking brake cable routing clip

14.11 Sliding a 1/2 inch box-end wrench over the parking brakecable as shown will compress the retaining clip tabs so

you can remove the cable from the bracket

14.13 If a 1/2 inch box-end wrench isn't available, use a smallhose clamp to compress the parking brake cable

retaining clip tabs

cable housing with a 1/2-inch box-endwrench or a small hose clamp (see illustra-tion). Pull the cable through the opening inthe center console bracket. Note: On somemodels, the center console rear bracket mayhave to be removed.

12 Remove the rear drum brake shoes (seeSection 6).13 Compress the retaining tabs of thecable housing with a 1/2-inch box-endwrench or a small hose clamp and pull thecable through the brake backing plate (see

illustration).14 Remove the cable brackets from theframe rail (see illustration).15 Remove the cable sealing grommetfrom the floor pan (see illustration).16 Remove the cable assembly from thevehicle.

Installation17 Insert the front end of the cable throughthe hole in the floor pan and guide the cablegrommet into place.18 Insert the rear of the cable through thehole in the brake assembly backing plate.Make sure the cable is pulled through thehole far enough to allow the retaining tabs toexpand all the way, locking the cable to thebacking plate.19 Install the cable brackets onto theappropriate cable (brackets are unique for lefthand and right hand applications). Install thebrackets onto the frame rail and tighten thebolts securely.20 Connect the cable end to the parkingbrake lever on the trailing brake shoe andreassemble the rear brake assembly (see

14.14 Parking brake cable brackets (leftside shown)

14.15 Parking brake cable sealinggrommet as viewed from under

the vehicle

9

9-16 Chapter 9 Brakes

Section 6). Note: If the wheel hub/bearingassembly was removed, a new hub nut mustbe installed.21 Working inside the vehicle, grasp theparking brake cable grommet at the floor panand pull hard to make sure the grommet isfully seated to the floor pan. Note: If you'reconcerned about the quality of thegrommet-to-floor pan seal, apply some RTV sealantaround the grommet sealing areas.22 Install the cable into its appropriateposition in the center console bracket andmake sure the cable retainers have expandedto hold the cable firmly in place. If removed,install the center console rear bracket.23 Secure the cables to the floor pan withthe routing clip.24 Place the carpet back into position andinstall both rear door opening sill scuff plates.25 Install the rear seat assembly (seeChapter 11).26 Connect both rear brake cables to thenew cable tension equalizer (see illustration13.3).27 Install the parking brake lever outputcable into the cable tension equalizer andsecure with a new retaining clip (see illustra-tion 13.3). DO NOT reuse the old outputcable retaining clip!28 Before attempting to adjust the parkingbrake cables, start the engine and fullydepress the brake pedal two or three times toadjust the rear brakes.29 Adjust the parking brake cable (seeSection 13).

15 Brake light switch - check,replacement and adjustment

Description1 The brake light switch is a normallyopen switch that controls the operation of thebrake lights. The switch is located near thetop of the brake pedal and is attached to a

bracket. When the brake pedal is applied, thepedal arm moves away from the switch and aspring-loaded plunger closes the circuit tothe brake lights.2 Models equipped with cruise controluse a dual purpose brake light switch thatalso deactivates the cruise control systemwhen the brake pedal is depressed.

Check3 Check the brake light fuse (see Chap-ter 12). If the fuse has blown, replace it. If itblows again, look for a short in the brake lightcircuit.4 If the fuse is okay, use a test light orvoltmeter to verify that there's voltage to theswitch. If there's no voltage to the switch,look for an open or short in the power wire tothe switch. Repair as necessary.5 If the brake lights still don't come onwhen the brake pedal is applied, unplug theelectrical connector from the brake lightswitch and, using an ohmmeter, verify thatthere is continuity between the switch termi-nals when the brake pedal is applied, i.e.when the switch is closed. If continuity is notdetected, replace the switch.6 If there is continuity between the switchterminals when the brake is applied (it closesthe circuit), but the brake lights don't comeon when the brake pedal is applied, check forpower to the brake light bulb sockets whenthe pedal is depressed. If voltage is present,replace the bulbs (it isn't very likely that all ofthem would fail simultaneously, but it is pos-sible that they could be burned out). If volt-age is not available, check the wiringbetween the switch and the brake lights foran open circuit and repair as necessary.

Replacement and adjustmentRefer to illustration 15.77 Depress and hold the brake pedal,then rotate the brake light switch about30-degrees in a counterclockwise direction

15.7 The brake light switch (arrow) islocated under the dash and mounted

on a bracket near the brake pedal arm(dual-purpose brake light/cruise

control switch shown)

(see illustration) and remove it from themounting bracket.8 Unplug the electrical connector from theswitch and remove it from the vehicle.9 Grasp the switch plunger and pull it out-ward until it has ratcheted to it's fullyextended position.10 Depress the brake pedal as far as it willgo, then install the switch in the bracket byaligning the index key on the switch with theslot at the top of the square hole in themounting bracket. When the switch is fullyinstalled in the bracket, rotate the switchclockwise about 30-degrees to lock theswitch into the bracket.11 Gently pull back on the brake pedal untilthe pedal stops moving. The switch plungerwill ratchet backward to the correct position.Caution: Don't use excessive force whenpulling back on the brake pedal to adjust theswitch. If you use too much force, you willdamage the switch or the striker.

.12 Plug the electrical connector into theswitch.

10-1

Chapter 10Suspension and steering systemsContents

SectionBalljoints (front) - check......................................................................... 7General information................................................................................1Hub and bearing assembly (front) - removal and

installation.........................................................................................8Hub and bearing assembly (rear) - removal and

installation.......................................................................................17Knuckle/spindle (rear) - removal

and installation ................................................................................18Lateral links (rear) - removal and installation ........................................13Lower control arm - removal and installation.........................................6Power steering fluid level check .......................................See Chapter 1Power steering pump - removal and installation .................................23Power steering system - bleeding ....................................................... 24Rear suspension crossmember - removal and installation ..................14Shock absorber/coil spring assembly (front) -

removal, inspection and installation ................................................. 3Shock absorber/coil spring - replacement ............................................ 4Shock absorber/coil spring assembly (rear) - removal,

inspection, component replacement and installation .....................11

SectionStabilizer bar and bushings (front) - removal, inspection

and installation ..................................................................................2Stabilizer bar and bushings (rear) - removal, inspection

and installation ................................................................................10Steering and suspension check ....................................... See Chapter 1Steering gear and pressure switch - removal and installation .............22Steering knuckle - removal and installation ...........................................9Steering system - general information................................................. 19Steering wheel - removal and installation ............................................20Tie-rod ends - removal and installation............................................... 21Tire and tire pressure checks ........................................... See Chapter 1Tire rotation.......................................................................See Chapter 1Trailing link (rear) - removal and installation .........................................12Upper balljoint (rear) - replacement ..................................................... 16Upper control arm (front) - removal, inspection, and

installation.........................................................................................5Upper control arm (rear) - removal and installation ............................. 15Wheel alignment - general information ................................................26Wheels and tires - general information ................................................25

Specifications

Torque specifications Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Front suspensionDriveaxle/hub nut.............................................................................................180Lower control arm front pivot bolt

1995 ............................................................................................................ 1201996 ............................................................................................................ 851997 on ....................................................................................................... 135

Lower control arm-to-crossmember rear bolt1995............................................................................................................ 1201996 on....................................................................................................... 85

Shock absorber-to-shock tower bolts1995............................................................................................................231996............................................................................................................681997 on.......................................................................................................70

Shock absorber damper rod nut1995............................................................................................................551996 on.......................................................................................................40

Shock absorber-to-clevis pinch bolt1995 through 1999......................................................................................702000............................................................................................................52

Shock absorber clevis-to-control arm bolt1995 ............................................................................................................1201996 ............................................................................................................1351997 on ....................................................................................................... 68

Stabilizer bar attaching link nuts1995............................................................................................................211996............................................................................................................ 781997 on ....................................................................................................... 75

Stabilizer bar bushing clamp bolts1995, 1996 ..................................................................................................211997 on .......................................................................................................45

Lower balljoint-to-steering knuckle castle nut1995............................................................................................................701996 on.......................................................................................................55

10

10-2 Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

Torque specifications Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Front suspension (continued)Upper balljoint-to-steering knuckle castle nut

1995............................................................................................................ 701996............................................................................................................451997 on.......................................................................................................40

Upper control arm-to-shock mount bolts........................................................68Wheel lug nuts................................................................................................. See Chapter 1

Rear suspensionBalljoint-to-knuckle castle nut

1995............................................................................................................631996 on .......................................................................................................50

Brake support plate mounting bolts ................................................................ 45Crossmember-to-body bolts........................................................................... 70Control arm pivot bar-to-crossmember ...........................................................79Hub and bearing assembly-to-knuckle retaining nut .......................................185Lateral link-to-knuckle bolts/nuts.................................................................... 70Lateral link jam nuts .........................................................................................70Lateral link-to-crossmember bolts ...................................................................70Shock absorber mounting bracket-to-body nuts

1995 models...............................................................................................251996 and later models ................................................................................40

Shock absorber-to-knuckle bolts/nuts ............................................................ 70Shock absorber rod-to-upper mount nut

1995 models...............................................................................................551996 and later models ................................................................................40

Stabilizer bar bushing clamp bolts...................................................................20Stabilizer-to-lateral link nuts ............................................................................ 24Trailing link shaft nuts - both ends ...................................................................70Trailing bracket-to-body bolts

1995 models ...............................................................................................701996 and later models................................................................................ 21

Steering systemAirbag module retaining nuts...........................................................................90 in-lbsPower steering pump mounting bolts ..............................................................40Power steering fluid pressure and return line fitting nuts ................................ 23Power steering fluid pressure banjo

fitting bolt (alternate-to-pressure fitting nut)...............................................25Steering gear mounting bolts ...........................................................................50Power steering fluid line tube fittings ...............................................................23Tie-rod (outer)-to-inner jam lock nut ................................................................ 55Tie-rod balljoint stud-to-steering knuckle nut ..................................................45Steering column flex coupler pinch bolt .......................................................... 20Steering wheel nut ........................................................................................... 45

1 General information

Refer to illustrations 1.1a, 1.1a b, 1.2a and 1.2bThe front suspension (see illustrations)

uses coil-over shock absorber assembliesand unequal length control arms. The upperend of the shock absorber/coil spring assem-bly is attached to an aluminum housing in theinside of the shock tower. The bottom of theshock absorber is attached to the lower con-trol arm. The front and rear ends of the lowercontrol arm are bolted to the front cross-member. The inner end of the upper controlarm is attached to the aluminum housing inthe shock tower. The steering knuckle is con-nected to both the upper and lower controlarms through balljoints. The stabilizer bar isbolted to the suspension cradle and theunderbody of the vehicle and attached to

both lower control arms, which reduces bodyroll during cornering.

The rear suspension (see illustrations)also uses coil-over shock absorber assem-blies. The coil spring is mounted on theshock absorber, and the upper end of theshock is attached to the vehicle body. Thelower end of the shock is attached to the rearknuckle. The knuckle is located by a pair oflateral links on each side, and an upper con-trol arm, plus a longitudinally mounted trailingli nk between the body and each knuckle.

The power-assisted rack-and-pinionsteering gear is located on the front suspen-sion crossmember, behind the engine and infront of the firewall. The steering gear actu-ates the tie-rods. The tie-rod ends are con-nected to steering arms on the steeringknuckles. The steering column actuates thesteering gear and is designed to collapse in

the event of an accident.When working on the suspension or

steering system components, you may comeacross fasteners which seem impossible toloosen. Fasteners on the underside of thevehicle are continually subjected to water,road grime, mud, etc., and can becomerusted or "frozen," making them extremelydifficult to remove. To unscrew these fasten-ers without damaging them (or other compo-nents), be sure to use lots of penetrating oiland allow it to soak in for a while. Use a wirebrush to clean exposed threads and easeremoval of the nut or bolt and prevent dam-age to the threads. A sharp blow with a ham-mer and punch will sometimes break thebond between nut and bolt threads, but becareful to keep the punch from slipping offthe fastener and ruining the threads. Heatingthe stuck fastener and surrounding area with

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems 10-3

1.1a Front suspension and steering components

1 Stabilizer bar 4 Brake caliper 7 Steering knuckle2 Lower control arm 5 Heat shield 8 Tie-rod3 Brake disc 6 Stabilizer bar bushing retainers 9 Tie-rod end

1.1b Front suspensionand steering details

1 Upper control arm2 Coil spring3 Steering knuckle4 Shock absorber5 Shock absorber

clevis6 Tie-rod end7 Lower control arm8 Steering gear boot

10

10-4 Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

1.2a Rear suspension components

1 Crossmember 4 Forward lateral link 7 Rear knuckle2 Upper control arm 5 Stabilizer bar attaching link 8 Trailing link3 Rear lateral link 6 Stabilizer bar 9 Trailing link bracket

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems 10-5

2.2b . . . and the attaching link assemblies from the lower controlarm (arrow)2.2a Remove the nuts (arrow) .. .

a torch sometimes helps too, but isn't recom-mended because of the obvious fire dangers.Long breaker bars and extension, or"cheater," pipes increase leverage, but neveruse an extension pipe on a ratchet - theratcheting mechanism could be damaged.Tightening the nut or bolt first will sometimeshelp break it loose. Fasteners that requiredrastic measures to remove should alwaysbe replaced with new ones.

Most of the procedures in this Chapterinvolve jacking up the vehicle and workingunderneath it. A good pair of jackstands willbe needed. A hydraulic floor jack is the pre-ferred type of jack to lift the vehicle, and itcan also be used to support certain compo-nents during various operations. Warning:Never rely on a jack to support a vehicle whileworking on it. Whenever any of the suspen-sion or steering fasteners are loosened orremoved they must be inspected and, if nec-essary, replaced with new ones of the samepart number or of original equipment qualityand design. Torque specifications must befollowed for proper reassembly and compo-nent retention. Never attempt to heat orstraighten any suspension or steering compo-nents. Instead, replace any bent or damagedpart with a new one.

2 Stabilizer bar and bushings(front) - removal, inspection andinstallation

RemovalRefer to illustrations 2.2a, 2.2b and 2.31 Loosen the front wheel lug nuts, raisethe front of the vehicle and support itsecurely on jackstands. Apply the parkingbrake and block the rear wheels to keep thevehicle from rolling off the stands. Removethe front wheels.2 Remove the nuts and the stabilizer barattaching link assemblies from the front lowercontrol arms (see Illustrations). Note: Usean Allen wrench in the end of the lower con -

trol arm stud to prevent the stud from movingwhen removing the attaching link nut.3 Remove the four bolts attaching the sta-bilizer bar bushing clamps to the front sus-pension crossmember and body (see illus-tration).4 Remove the stabilizer bar from the vehi-cle.

Inspection5 Inspect for cracked, torn, or distortedstabilizer bar bushings, bushing retainers,and worn or damaged stabilizer bar attachingli nks. Damaged stabilizer bar attaching linksmust be replaced before reinstalling the sta-bilizer bar.6 To replace damaged stabilizer bar bush-ings, open the bushing slit and peel the bush-ing from the stabilizer bar. Caution: Install thenew bushings with the slits facing the sameway that the original bushing slits faced.

Installation7 Position the stabilizer bar and bushingsin the front crossmember. Install the clampsand bolts, tightening them to the torque listedin this Chapter's Specifications.8 Align the stabilizer bar attaching linkassemblies with the mounting holes in thelower control arms and install the retainingnuts. Tighten the nuts to the torque in thisChapter's Specifications.9 Install the wheels and lug nuts. Lowerthe vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to thetorque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications.

3 Shock absorber/coil springassembly (front) - removal,inspection and installation

RemovalRefer to illustrations 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7 and3.9Warning: Do not remove the shock absorberrod nut before the shock absorber coil springis compressed.

2.3 Remove the stabilizer bar bushingretainer bolts (arrows)

1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise thefront of the vehicle, support it securely onjackstands and remove the wheel.2 Mark the shock absorbers with a R or Lif they are both removed at the same time.3 Remove the wheel speed sensor cablebracket from the steering knuckle (see illus-tration).

3.3 Remove the wheel speed sensorcable bracket from the steering knuckle

10

10-6 Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

3.5 Push the upper balljoint stud out of the steering knucklewith a puller3.4 Upper balljoint stud cotter pin and castle nut

BRACKET FLEXHOSE

3.6 Remove the shock absorber clevis pinch bolt 3.7 Remove the bolt that attaches the shock absorber clevis tothe lower control arm

4 Remove the cotter pin and loosen thecastle nut from the upper balljoint stud (seeillustration).5 Detach the balljoint from the steeringknuckle using a puller (see illustration).Remove the nut and pull the steering knuckleoutward and to the back of the front wheelopening. Caution: Be careful not to strain thebrake hose.

6 Remove the shock absorber clevispinch bolt and nut (see illustration).7 Remove the clevis bolt from the lowercontrol arm (see illustration).8 Use a soft-faced hammer (brass) to tapthe clevis from the shock absorber.9 Remove the four bolts from the shocktower attaching the upper control arm/shockabsorber (see illustration).

10 Remove the upper control arm mountingbracket and shock absorber as an assembly.11 Separate the upper control arm mount-ing bracket and the shock absorber.

Inspection12 Check the shock absorber assembly forleaking fluid, dents, cracks and other obviousdamage which would warrant replacement.

SHOCKTOWER

3.14 Proper positioning of the clevis on the shock absorber3.9 Remove the four upper control arm/shock absorber mountbolts from the shock tower (arrows)

SHOCK ABSORBER/UPPER CONTROL ARM

MOUNTING BRACKETBOLTS

CLEVIS MUST BE INSTALLEDFLUSH AGAINST LOCATING

TAB HERE—COVER

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems 10-7

SHOCK ABSORBER RODUPPER ISOLATOR BUSHING

SHOCK ABSORBERASSEMBLY

VISE

SHOCK ABSORBER/CONTROL ARMMOUNTING BRACKET

4.2 Clamp the shock absorber by the clevis in a vise 4.6 Remove the upper isolator bushing .. .

SHOCK ABSORBER/CONTROL ARM

MOUNTING BRACKET

4.7 . . . and the lower isolator bushing and sleeve4.8 Remove the washer and the dust shield from

the shock absorber

Check the coil spring for chips and corrosion.Replace it if any undesirable symptoms arefound. See Section 4 for the shock absorberor coil spring replacement procedure.

InstallationRefer to illustration 3.1413 Connect the shock absorber assemblyto the upper control arm mount. Install theassembly (with the clevis removed) into theshock tower. Align the two locating pins andthe four mounting holes on the upper controlarm/shock absorber mount and tighten thefour bolts to the torque listed in this Chap-ter's Specifications.14 Install the clevis on the shock absorber.Tap the clevis onto the shock absorber until itis properly aligned and fully seated againstthe locating tab on the shock absorber body(see illustration). Install the bolt and tightenit to the torque listed in this Chapter's Speci-fications.15 Install the clevis-to-lower control armbolt. Do not tighten it at this time.16 Install the upper balljoint into the top ofthe steering knuckle. Install the castle nut andtighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications. Install a new cotter pin.17 Install the speed control routing cableon the steering knuckle.18 Using a floor jack placed under the outerend of the lower control arm, raise the lower

control arm to simulate normal ride height.Tighten the shock absorber clevis-to-lowercontrol arm bolt to the torque in this Chap-ter's Specifications. Remove the floor jack.19 Install the wheel and lug nuts. Lower thevehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torqueli sted in the Chapter 1 Specifications.

4 Shock absorber/coil spring -replacement

Warning: Disassembling a shock absorb-er/coil spring assembly is dangerous. Useonly a high-quality spring compressor, whichcan be rented at most auto parts stores orequipment yards. Carefully follow all instruc-tions furnished by the tool manufacturer orserious injury could result.

DisassemblyRefer to illustrations 4.2, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8 and4.101 Remove the shock absorber assembly(see Section 3).2 Reinstall the clevis bracket on the shockabsorber and tighten the pinch bolt. Clamp theshock absorber in a vertical position in a viseholding the clevis bracket (see illustration).3 Compress the coil spring using a coilspring compressor (which can be obtained at

most auto parts stores or equipment yards).Follow the tool manufacturer's instructions,install the spring compressor on the spring,and compress it sufficiently to relieve allpressure from the upper spring seat. Warn-ing: Do not remove the shock absorberdamper rod nut before the coil spring is com-pressed. Be sure to have the first full top andbottom coil of the coil spring captured by thecoil spring compressor.4 Remove the shock absorber damper rodnut while holding the rod to prevent it fromrotating.5 Remove the damper rod washer, theupper control arm mounting bracket and theisolator bushings from the damper rod.6 Mark and remove the shock absorberupper isolator bushing, and the lower isolatorbushing and sleeve from the upper controlarm mounting bracket. Then remove theupper spring isolator from the mountingbracket (see illustration).7 Remove the lower isolator bushing fromthe damper rod sleeve (see illustration).8 Remove the washer from the top of thedust shield and the dust shield from theshock absorber assembly (see illustration).9 Remove the compressed coil spring.Warning: Keep the ends of the springpointed away from your body. Set the springaside in a safe, isolated location. Note: Markthe springs R or L for proper reinstallation.

10

10-8 Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

INSTALL ON SHOCKABSORBER ROD

IN THIS DIRECTION

SHOCK ABSORBERROD LOWER

ISOLATOR BUSHING

SHOCK ABSORBER RODUPPER ISOLATOR

BUSHING

INSTALL ON SHOCKABSORBER ROD

IN THIS DIRECTION

SLEEVE

JOUNCEBUMPER

SHOCK ABSORBERROD

SHOCK ABSORBERFLUID RESERVOIR

4.10 Remove the jounce bumper and sleeve from the 4.14 Upper and lower shock absorber rod bushing identificationshock absorber

10 Remove the jounce bumper and sleevefrom the shock absorber assembly (see illus-tration).11 Remove the coil spring isolator from thelower spring seat on the shock absorber.

Inspection12 Inspect the shock absorber for rod bind-ing, and the shock mount and upper springseat/isolator for cracks/distortion, deteriora-tion, rips and cracks. Check the coil springfor chips, cracks and corrosion.13 Replace any components found to beworn or defective.

AssemblyRefer to illustration 4.1414 Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.When installing the sleeve on the shockabsorber rod, install it with the undercut sideof the sleeve facing downward. Caution: Thetop and bottom shock absorber rod bushingsmust be reinstalled on the rod exactly as theywere when they were removed (see illustra-tion).15 Install the shock absorber/coil springassembly (see Section 3).

5 Upper control arm (front) -removal, inspection andinstallation

Removal1 Remove the shock absorber (see Sec-tion 3).2 Remove the coil spring from the shockabsorber (see Section 4).3 Remove the nuts and bolts attaching theupper control arm to the mounting bracket.4 Remove the upper control arm from themounting bracket.

Inspection5 Make sure the control arm is straight. Ifit is bent, replace it. Do not attempt to

straighten a bent control arm.6 Inspect the bushings in the mountingbracket for cracks and tears. If any bushing istorn or worn out, replace the control armmounting bracket.

Installation7 Install the upper control arm on themounting bracket. Note: The bolt heads mustface inward (towards the coil spring). Tightenthe nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications.8 Install the coil spring on the shockabsorber (see Section 4). Install the uppershock mount/upper control arm assembly(see Section 4). Install the shock absorber(see Section 3).9 Using a floor jack placed under the outerend of the lower control arm, raise the lowercontrol arm to simulate normal ride height.Tighten the shock absorber clevis-to-lowercontrol arm bolt to the torque in this Chap-ter's Specifications. Remove the floor jack.10 Install the wheel and lug nuts. Lower thevehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torquelisted in the Chapter 1 Specifications.

6 Lower control arm - removal andinstallation

RemovalRefer to illustrations 6.4, 6.6, 6.12a and 6.12b1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise thefront of the vehicle, support it securely onjackstands and remove the wheel.2 Remove the brake caliper (see Chap-ter 9) and support it with a piece of wire -don't let it hang from the brake hose.3 Remove the brake disc from the fronthub/bearing assembly.4 If the vehicle is equipped with 15-inchwheels, the balljoint heat shield must beremoved from the steering knuckle. Removethe two bolts and the heat shield from thesteering knuckle (see illustration).5 Remove the cotter pin and loosen thelower balljoint castle nut a few turns.6 Use a hammer to strike the boss on thesteering knuckle until it separates from thelower balljoint stud (see illustration). Cau-tion: Do not hit the lower control arm or theballjoint grease seal, be careful not to sepa-

6.4 Remove the balljoint heat shield

6.6 Strike the boss on the steeringknuckle until it separates from the lower

balljoint stud

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems 10-9

6.12a Remove the nut/bolt attaching the rear of the lower controlarm to the front suspension crossmember .. .

6.12b . . . and the pivot bolt holding the front of the lower controlarm to the front suspension crossmember

rate the inner CV joint and do not pry thelower balljoint from the steering knuckle.Once the balljoint stud has been releasedfrom the steering knuckle, remove the castlenut.7 Remove the shock absorber clevis-to-lower control arm bolt and separate the clevisfrom the lower control arm (see illustra-tion 3.7).8 Detach the stabilizer bar link from thelower control arm (see Section 2).9 Remove the bolts attaching the stabi-lizer bar bushing clamp to the front suspen-sion crossmember and the body of the vehi-cle.10 Lower one side of the stabilizer baraway from the lower control arm.11 Remove the nut and bolt attaching thelower control arm to the front suspensioncrossmember.12 Remove the nuts and bolts attaching thelower control arm to the front suspensioncrossmember (see illustrations).13 Separate the front of the lower controlarm from the front suspension crossmember.Caution: Be careful not to damage theballjoint seal against the steering knucklewhen lowering it from the crossmember.14 Remove the rear of the lower controlarm from the front suspension crossmember.Be careful to keep the rear bushing frombinding on the crossmember. Check thebushings in the lower control arm for crack-ing and other signs of deterioration. If neces-sary, take the control arm to an automotivemachine shop to have the bushings replaced.

Installation15 Install the rear, and then the front of thelower control arm into the front suspensioncradle. Do not tighten the bolts at this time.16 Connect the lower balljoint to the steer-ing knuckle, tightening the castle nut to thetorque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.Install a new cotter pin.17 Installation of the remaining compo-nents is the reverse of removal. Caution: Besure to install the balljoint heat shield. If theheat shield is not installed, the boot may faildue to excessive heat from the brake disc.

18 After installing the clevis on the lowercontrol arm, place a floor jack under thelower balljoint and raise the lower control armto simulate normal ride height. Tighten thelower control arm-to-crossmember bolts andthe shock absorber clevis-to-lower controlarm bolt/nut to the values listed in this Chap-ter's Specifications.19 Install the brake disc and caliper.Tighten the caliper mounting bolts to thetorque listed in the Chapter 9 Specifications.20 Install the wheel and lug nuts. Lower thevehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torqueli sted in the Chapter 1 Specifications.

7 Balljoints (front) - check

1 With the vehicle on the ground, reacharound the tire and try to wiggle the balljointgrease fitting. If any movement is felt, theballjoint is worn out.2 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands. Make sure the tires are notcontacting the ground.3 Grasp the tire at top and bottom and tryto rock it in and out. Have an assistant feel forplay in the balljoints while you do this. Theballjoints on these vehicles are not supposedto have any freeplay, so if any movement isevident, the balljoint must be replaced.4 The balljoints on these vehicles are not

HUB NUT \ 1 NUT LOCK

serviceable, nor can they be removed fromthe control arms. If a balljoint is bad, replacethe control arm (see Section 5).5 The balljoint seal, however, is replace-able. This is done by prying the old seal offand pressing a new one into place with asocket large enough to contact the outer cir-cumference of the seal.6 Remove the jackstands and lower thevehicle.

Hub and bearing assembly (front)- removal and installation

RemovalRefer to illustrations 8.1, 8.2 and 8.9Warning: Dust created by the brake systemmay contain asbestos, which is harmful toyour health. Never blow it out with com-pressed air and don't inhale any of it. Do not,under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Usebrake system cleaner only.1 Remove the cotter pin, nut lock, andspring washer from the front stub axle (seeillustration).2 Loosen the driveaxle/hub nut (see illus-tration). Note: The hub and driveshaft areattached by splines through the steeringknuckle and retained by the hub nut.

8.2 Loosen the front hub nut

COTTER PINRING WASHER

8.1 Remove the cotter pin, nut lock, andspring washer from the front stub axle

10

10-10 Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

10.2 Remove the nuts attaching the stabilizer links and isolatorbushings to the stabilizer8.9 Pull the steering knuckle away from the outer CV joint

the brake disc.18 Tighten all nuts/bolts to the torque listedin this Chapter's Specifications.19 Install the wheel and lug nuts. Lower thevehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torquelisted in the Chapter 1 Specifications.20 Have an assistant apply the brakes, thentighten the driveaxle/hub nut to the torquelisted in this Chapter's Specifications.

Removal and installation of the steeringknuckle is covered as part of the sequence inSection 8.

10 Stabilizer bar and bushings (rear)- removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 10.2 and 10.3

Removal1 Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts. Raisethe rear of the vehicle and place it securelyon jackstands. Block the front wheels andremove the rear wheels.2 Remove the nuts attaching the stabilizerli nks and isolator bushings to the stabilizer(see illustration).3 Unbolt the stabilizer bar clamps fromthe crossmember (see illustration).4 Remove the stabilizer bar from the vehi-cle. Note: Take note of the orientation of thestabilizer bar bend at the end of the barbefore removal for proper installation later -the bend in the end of the bar is positionedupwards in the vehicle when viewed from theside. The stabilizer bar will come out of thevehicle between the exhaust pipe and thesuspension crossmember.

Inspection5 Inspect the stabilizer bushings forcracks and tears. If the bushings are dam-aged, distorted or excessively worn, replacethem.

3 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise thevehicle and support it securely on jackstands.Remove the wheel.4 Remove the brake caliper, support itwith a piece of wire and remove the brakedisc from the hub (see Chapter 9).5 Remove the balljoint heat shield fromthe lower control arm on vehicles equippedwith 15-inch wheels (see illustration 6.4).Note: The heat shield must be removedbefore separating the balljoint stud from thesteering knuckle. 9 Steering knuckle - removal and6 Separate the tie-rod end from the steer- installationing knuckle arm (see Section 21).7 Remove the speed sensor cable routingbracket from the steering knuckle on vehiclesequipped with anti-lock brakes (see illustra-tion 3.3).8 Separate the steering knuckle from thelower control arm balljoint (see Section 6).9 Support the driveshaft and pull thesteering knuckle away from the outer C/Vjoint (see illustration). If the driveaxle splinesstick in the hub, push the stub axle throughthe hub with a two-jaw puller.10 Remove the cotter pin and the nut fromthe upper balljoint stud (see illustration 3.4).11 Separate the upper balljoint stud fromthe steering knuckle using a puller (see illus-tration 3.5).12 Mount the steering knuckle securely in avise.13 Remove the hub/bearing mounting boltsfrom the steering knuckle.14 Remove the hub/bearing from the steer-ing knuckle. It may be necessary to tap theassembly out with a hammer.

Installation15 Clean all hub/bearing mounting surfaceson the steering knuckle.16 Install the hub/bearing on the steeringknuckle. Install the bolts and tighten them tothe torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica-tions.17 Installation of the remaining compo-nents is the reverse of removal. Caution: Besure to install the tie-rod and balljoint heatshields. If the heat shields are not installed,the seals may fail due to excessive heat from

Installation6 Installation is the reverse of removal,first tightening the stabilizer bar ends to thetorque listed in this Chapter's Specifications,then installing the bushing clamps. Makesure the rubber bushings are installed withthe slits in the bushings positioned towardthe front of the vehicle. Tighten the stabilizerbushing clamp bolts to the torque listed inthis Chapter's Specifications.7 Install the rear wheels and lug nuts.Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts tothe torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifica-tions.

11 Shock absorber/coil springassembly (rear) - removal,inspection, componentreplacement and installation

RemovalRefer to illustrations 11.2 and 11.41 Inside the trunk, roll back the carpetingon the top of the rear shock absorber towerto access the upper shock mounting bolts.Remove the plastic cap.

10.3 The stabilizer bar bushing clampsare secured with two bolts (arrows)

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems 10-11

SHOCK ABSORBERROD

11.2 Lift the carpeting and unsnap theplastic cover from the upper shock tower,

then remove the two upper mountingbolts (arrows)

11.4 Remove the lower shock mountclevis bolt and nut (arrow)

11.13 Remove the washer on the top ofthe shock absorber assembly

SHOCK ABSORBERROD

ISOLATORBUSHING SHOCK

ABSORBERMOUNT

SPRINGISOLATOR

11.14a Remove the isolator bushing and shock absorber mount 11.14b Remove the spring isolator from the coil spring

2 Inside the trunk, remove the two shockabsorber upper mounting nuts (see illustra-tion). Note: Do not remove the shock damperrod nut at the center of the upper mount.3 Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise therear of the vehicle and support it securely onjackstands. Block the front wheels andremove the rear wheels.4 Remove the shock absorber lowermounting bolt from the rear knuckle (seeillustration).5 Push down on the rear suspension andpull the shock away from the knuckle. Thenguide the shock downward and remove theshock absorber.

Inspection6 Check the shock absorber for leakingfluid, dents, cracks and other obvious dam-age which would require repair or replace-ment. To check for loss of gas charge,remove the coil spring (see Step 10) push theshaft of the shock in, then release - the shaftshould return to its fully extended position.7 Check the coil spring for chips or cracksin the spring coating (this can cause prema-ture spring failure due to corrosion). Inspectthe spring seat for general deterioration.8 Inspect the rubber isolators and bush-ings in the upper mount bracket for cracks,

distortion, or any deterioration. Inspect thedust shield for rips or deterioration. Inspectthe jounce bumper for cracks and deteriora-tion.9 Replace components as necessary.

Component replacementRefer to illustrations 11.13, 11.14a, 11.14b,11.15 and 11.18Warning: Disassembling a shock absorb-er/coil spring assembly is dangerous. Useonly a high-quality spring compressor, whichcan be rented at most auto parts stores orequipment yards. Carefully follow all instruc-tions furnished by the tool manufacturer orserious injury could result.10 Mount the shock assembly in a vise,clamping the bottom shock clevis bracket.Mark the shock absorber and the coil springRIGHT or LEFT, depending on which side ofthe vehicle from which it was removed.Warning: Do not remove the shock damperrod nut before the spring is compressed.11 Installing the spring compressor on thefirst full top and bottom coil of the spring,compress the spring until it can be wiggled,indicating that all pressure has been relievedfrom the upper mount.12 Hold the damper rod from rotating usinga wrench or locking pliers, then unscrew the

11.15 Remove the rod washer from the10top of the shock absorber dust boot

damper rod nut.13 Remove the washer from the shockmounting bracket (see illustration).14 Remove the isolator bushing, the shockabsorber mount, and the spring isolator fromthe coil spring (see illustrations).15 Remove the rod washer from the top ofthe shock absorber dust boot (see illustra-tion).

10-12 Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

11.18 Slide off the shock absorber rod rubber jounce bumper, collar,and coil spring isolator

12.2 Use an open-end wrench to hold thetrailing link from rotating while removing

the nut and washer at the knuckle

16 Remove the dust boot from the shockabsorber (see illustration 11.15).17 Lift the coil spring off of the shockabsorber. Warning: Keep the ends of thespring pointed away from your body. Set thespring aside in a safe, isolated location.18 Remove the rubber jounce bumper, col-lar, and coil spring isolator from the shockabsorber (see illustration).19 Reassembly is the reverse of removal.When installing the sleeve on the shockabsorber rod, install it with the undercut sideof the sleeve facing downward. Push thesleeve tightly onto the rod step until thesleeve is seated firmly. Reinstall the topwasher on the shock rod with the work TOPstamped on the washer facing upward (seeillustration 11.13). When reinstalling thespring, align the studs at the top of themounting plate with the hole in the bottomclevis bracket before relieving the springforce.

Installation20 Guide the shock absorber into place,inserting the upper mounting studs throughthe holes in the shock tower. Install the nuts,but don't tighten them yet.21 Connect the lower end of the shockabsorber to the knuckle, with the bolt headfacing the rear of the vehicle. Tighten thebolt/nut to the torque listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications.22 Install the wheel and lug nuts. Lower thevehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torqueli sted in the Chapter 1 Specifications. Tightenthe upper mounting nuts to the torque listedin this Chapter's Specifications. Install thecap.

12 Trailing link (rear) - removal andinstallation

Refer to illustrations 12.2 and 12.31 Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise thevehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

Block the front wheels and remove the rearwheel.2 At the rear knuckle, remove the nut,bushing retainer, and outer trailing link bush-ing from the trailing link (see illustration).3 Remove the four bolts from the trailingli nk bracket which attach the bracket to thebody and frame rail (see illustration).4 Remove trailing link and mountingbracket as an assembly from the vehicle.5 If separating the trailing link from themounting bracket, note the location and posi-tions of the bushings and retainer for correctreinstallation later.6 Installation is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Be sure to tighten the bolts andnuts to the torque listed in this Chapter'sSpecifications.

13 Lateral links (rear) - removal andinstallation

Refer to illustrations 13.2, 13.4, 13.6 and 13.71 Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise therear of the vehicle and support it securely onjackstands. Remove the rear wheel.

12.3 Unbolt the trailing link bracket bolts(arrow) to remove the forward end of the

trailing link

Forward lateral link2 Remove rear stabilizer bar attaching linkfrom the forward lateral link (see illustration).3 Remove the nut, bolt and washerattaching the forward lateral link to theknuckle (see illustration 11.2).

BOLT AND 13.2 Remove theWASHER stabilizer bar attaching

li nk bolt/nuts and frontlateral link to knuckle

bolt and washer

STABILIZERBAR

ATTACHINGLINK

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems 10-13

13.4 Remove the front lateral link-to-crossmember bolt (arrow)and nut 13.6 Remove the rear lateral link to knuckle bolt (arrow) and nut

4 Remove the nut, bolt and washerattaching the forward lateral link to the sus-pension crossmember (see illustration).5 Remove the forward lateral link from thevehicle. Note: Lateral links are replaced as aunit - do not repair or straighten a lateral link.Do not apply heat to the lateral link adjustingscrews or jam nuts to loosen them.

Rear lateral link6 Remove the nut, bolt and washerattaching the rear lateral link to the knuckle(see illustration).7 Remove the bolt and washer attachingthe rear lateral link to the suspension cross-member (see illustration).8 Remove the rear lateral link from thevehicle. Note: Lateral links are replaced as aunit - do not repair or straighten a lateral link.Do not apply heat to the lateral link adjustingscrews or jam nuts to loosen them.

Installation9 Installation is the reverse of removal.Install the front lateral link crossmember boltwith the head of the bolts are toward the frontof the vehicle. Install the rear lateral linkcrossmember bolt with the head of the boltsare toward the rear of the vehicle. For the for-ward lateral link, make sure the cup in thecast portion faces downward and toward therear knuckle when installed. For the rear lat-eral link, install with the adjusting screwtoward the knuckle, not toward the suspen-sion crossmember (see illustration 13.6).Tighten all fasteners to the torque listed inthis Chapter's Specifications.10 Install the wheel and lug nuts, thenlower the vehicle to the ground. Tighten thewheel lug nuts to the torque listed in theChapter 1 Specifications.

14 Rear suspension crossmember -removal and reinstallation

Refer to illustration 14.61 Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise the

13.7 Remove the rear lateral linkbolt/washer from the

suspension crossmember

rear of the vehicle and support it securely onjackstands. Remove the rear wheels.2 Remove the muffler support bracketfrom the rear frame rail.3 Remove the rear exhaust pipe hangerfrom the suspension crossmember, thenease the exhaust system while it drops downas far as possible.4 Support the suspension crossmemberwith a hydraulic jack and a wooden block onthe jack. If the vehicle has ABS (Anti-lockBrake System), remove the routing clips forthe wheel speed sensor cable from thebrackets on the upper control arm.5 Remove the nuts and bolts on each sideof the vehicle which attach both rear lateralli nks and both front lateral links to the knuck-les.6 Remove the bolts attaching the suspen-sion crossmember to the rear frame rails (seeillustration).7 Lower the suspension crossmemberusing the hydraulic jack a sufficient distanceto remove the upper control arm pivot boltswhich attach the control arm pivot bar to thecrossmember (see illustration 1.2b).8 Remove the four upper control armmounting bolts from the suspension cross -

14.6 Remove the suspensioncrossmember mounting bolts (arrow)

member. Remove the upper control armsfrom the crossmember.9 Lower the suspension crossmember,lateral arms, and stabilizer bar as far as pos-sible and then remove the suspension cross-member.10 Installation is the reverse of removal.Mount the lateral links, stabilizer bar bushingclamps and the stabilizer bar on the cross-member before installation. Align the cross-member as described in Section 15. Tightenthe fasteners to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications.

15 Upper control arm (rear) -removal and installation 10

Refer to illustrations 15.6 and 15.131 Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise theentire rear of the vehicle and support itsecurely on jackstands. Remove the rearwheels.2 Remove the shock absorber clevisbracket bolt and nut from both sides of thevehicle (see illustration 11.4).3 Remove the muffler support bracketfrom the rear frame rail.

10-14 Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

15.6 Use a puller to detach the upper control arm balljoint fromthe rear knuckle

15.13 Position a temporary locating drift in the suspensioncrossmember to frame rail alignment hole - one drift on each side

of the vehicle

DRIFT

4 Remove the rear exhaust pipe hangarfrom the suspension crossmember, thenease the exhaust system while it drops downas far as possible.5 Remove the cotter pin and loosen thecastle nut attaching the upper control armballjoint to the knuckle.6 With the castle nut loosened a fewturns, detach the balljoint stud from theknuckle using a puller (see illustration).7 Support the suspension crossmemberwith a hydraulic jack and a wooden block onthe jack. If the vehicle has ABS (Anti-lockBrake System), remove the routing clips forthe wheel speed sensor cable from bracketson the upper control arm.8 Remove the nuts and bolts on each sideof the vehicle which attach both rear lateralli nks and both front lateral links to the knuck-les.9 Remove the bolts attaching the suspen-sion crossmember to the rear frame rails (seeillustration 14.6).10 Lower the suspension crossmemberusing the hydraulic jack a sufficient distanceto remove the upper control arm pivot boltswhich attach the control arm pivot bar to thecrossmember (see illustration 1.2b).11 Remove the two upper control arm

mounting bolts from the suspension cross-member. Remove the upper control arm fromthe crossmember.12 The upper control arm, bushings, andpivot bar are serviced as a complete assem-bly. Only the balljoint and balljoint seal arereplaceable. Replace the balljoint andballjoint seal with the control arm removedfrom the vehicle.13 Installation is the reverse of removal.When installing the suspension crossmem-ber, install a drift (see illustration) into thepositioning holes (one positioning hole ineach side of the crossmember and frame rail)to properly locate the suspension in the vehi-cle body. Tighten fasteners to the torquelisted in this Chapter's Specifications.Remove the drifts.14 Drive the vehicle to an alignment shopto check rear wheel camber and toe andadjust as necessary.

16 Upper balljoint (rear) -replacement

The balljoint on the rear upper controlarm is replaceable, but it is a press fit in the

arm and requires a hydraulic press and spe-cial adapters to remove and install. For thisreason we recommend that you take theupper control arm to an automotive machineshop to have the balljoint replaced (refer toSection 15 for the removal and installationprocedure). Many auto parts stores are alsoequipped to handle such work.

17 Hub and bearing assembly (rear)- removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 17.3, 17.4 and 17.5Warning: Dust created by the brake systemmay contain asbestos, which is harmful toyour health. Never blow it out with com-pressed air and don't inhale any of it. Do not,under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Usebrake system cleaner only.1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise thevehicle and support it securely on jackstands.Remove the wheel.2 Remove the brake drum from the rearhub/bearing (see Chapter 9).3 Remove the dust cap (see illustration).4 Remove the hub/bearing retaining nut

17.3 Tap off the rear hub/bearing dust cap with a hammer 17.4 Remove the rear spindle nutand chisel

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems 10-15

18.3 Detach the wheel speed sensor from the brakebacking plate17.5 Pull the rear hub/bearing assembly off of the knuckle spindle

BRAKE FLEXHOSE BRACKET

(see illustration). Discard the nut - a newone must be used upon installation.5 Pull the hub/bearing assembly off of therear spindle (see illustration).6 Installation is the reverse of removal.Use a new retaining nut - do not reuse the oldnut. Tighten the nut to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications.7 Install the wheel and hand tighten thewheel lug nuts. Remove the jackstands,lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts tothe torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifica-tions.

18 Knuckle/spindle (rear) - removaland installation

Refer to illustrations 18.3, 18.5a and 18.5bWarning: Dust created by the brake systemmay contain asbestos, which is harmful toyour health. Never blow it out with com-pressed air and don't inhale any of it. Do not,under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Usebrake system cleaner only.

Removal1 Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise thevehicle and support it on jackstands. Blockthe front wheels and remove the rear wheel.2 Remove the rear hub/bearing assembly(see Section 17).3 On models with ABS, remove the wheelspeed sensor from the brake backing plate(see illustrations).4 Remove the parking brake cable fromthe parking brake actuator lever. Thenremove the cable from the brake backingplate (see Chapter 9).5 Remove the brake backing plate bolts.Using a length of wire, hang the brakeassembly from the coil spring above theknuckle so that you do not need to removethe brake hose from the wheel cylinder (seeillustrations).6 Remove the nuts and bolts attaching theforward and rear lateral links (see Section 13).

18.5a Remove the brake backing platebolts (arrows)

7 Separate the upper control arm balljointfrom the rear knuckle (see Section 15).10 Remove the nut and washer attachingthe trailing link to the rear knuckle (see Sec-tion 12).11 Remove the shock absorber-to-knucklenut and bolt (see illustration 11.4).12 Remove the knuckle assembly from thevehicle.

Installation13 Installation is the reverse of removal.Make sure the shock absorber clevis bracketbolt is installed with the head of the bolt fac-ing the rear of the vehicle. Reinstall the trail-ing link bushings in the same locations aswhen you removed them, and with the retain-ers installed with the cupped side of retainerfacing away from the bushing and knuckle.Be sure to tighten all suspension fasteners tothe torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica-tions.14 Install the wheel and lug nuts. Lower thevehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torquelisted in the Chapter 1 Specifications.15 Drive the vehicle to an alignment shop

18.5b Hang the brake assembly on thecoil spring using a length of wire

to have the rear wheel alignment checkedand, if necessary, adjusted.

19 Steering system - generalinformation

All models are equipped with powerrack-and-pinion steering. The steering gear,which is located on the suspension cross-member behind the engine and in front of thefirewall, operates the steering knuckles viatie-rods connected to steering arms on thesteering knuckles. The tie-rod ends can bereplaced by unscrewing them from the innertie-rods.

The power assist system consists of abelt-driven pump and the associated linesand hoses. The fluid level in the power steer-ing pump reservoir should be checked peri-odically (see Chapter 1).

The steering wheel operates the steer-ing shaft, which actuates the steering gearthrough an intermediate shaft with a universaljoint at the lower end of the steering column(referred to as the flex joint) and a lower inter -

10

10-16 Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

20.3 Remove the two screws retaining thesteering wheel airbag module

mediate shaft coupler which connects to thesteering gear input shaft. Looseness in thesteering can be caused by wear in the flexjoints, the shaft coupler, the steering gear,the tie-rod ends and loose retaining bolts.The steering gear is either a standard powersteering rack-and-pinion unit or an optionalspeed-proportional/variable-assist type.

20 Steering wheel - removal andinstallation

RemovalRefer to illustrations 20.3, 20.5a, 20.5b and20.7Warning: These models have airbags. Alwaysdisable the airbag system before working inthe vicinity of the impact sensors, steeringcolumn or instrument panel to avoid the pos-sibility of accidental deployment of theairbag, which could cause personal injury(see Chapter 12).1 Park the vehicle with the front wheelspointing straight ahead.2 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1). Wait at least twominutes before proceeding (the system has aback-up capacitor that must fully discharge).3 Remove the two screws, one on eachside of the steering wheel, which retain theairbag module to the steering wheel (seeillustration).4 Remove the airbag module from thesteering wheel. Warning: When handling theairbag module, make sure that at no time anysource of electricity is allowed near the infla-tor on the back of the airbag module; whencarrying the airbag module, the trim covermust be pointed away from your body or anyother person; if the airbag module is placedon a workbench or any other surface, the trimcover must face upwards. When removingthe airbag module, tag or mark all fasteners,screws, bolts, and other parts for the airbagmodule with their location as removed, forcorrect installation later.

20.5a Remove the lock from the airbagclockspring electrical connector

5 Remove the lock from the airbag clock-spring electrical connector and disconnectthe electrical connector from the back of theairbag module (see illustrations).6 Remove the screws on the rear of thesteering wheel attaching the speed controlswitches and remove the speed controlswitches from the steering wheel. Disconnectthe clockspring and horn ground wire fromthe airbag mounting bracket.7 Remove the steering wheel retaining nut(see illustration). Mark the steering columnshaft and the steering wheel for correct posi-tioning when reinstalling later.8 Remove the steering wheel with a steer-ing wheel puller - do not bump or hammer onthe steering wheel or steering column in anattempt to remove the wheel.

Installation9 Before installing the steering wheel,make sure the airbag clockspring is centered.To do this, push in on the two locking pins todisengage the locking mechanism. Whilecontinuing to depress the pins, turn theclockspring rotor clockwise until it stops(don't turn it with too much force or you coulddamage it). Slowly turn the rotor counter-clockwise until yellow appears in the center-ing window. The arrow on the rotor of the

20.5b Disconnect the electrical connectorfrom the back of the airbag module

clockspring should now be pointing at theyellow window on the clockspring. Releasethe locking pins to engage the locking mech-anism.10 Lower the steering wheel into position,feeding the clockspring wiring harnessthrough the opening in the wheel.11 Place the steering wheel on the shaft,aligning the marks. Also, make sure the flatson the hub of the steering wheel engage withthe flats on the inside of the clockspring.Install the nut and tighten it to the torqueli sted in this Chapter's Specifications.12 Correctly route and reconnect electricalconnectors such as the speed control switchelectrical leads from the clockspring toswitch openings in the steering wheel. Con-nect the clockspring electrical leads to thespeed control switches. Install the speedcontrol switches in the steering wheel. Theninstall and tighten the screws attaching thespeed control switches.13 Plug in the horn and airbag module elec-trical connectors. Press the speed controlwires into the retaining channels on the steer-ing wheel.14 Install the airbag module electrical leadfrom the clockspring into the connector onthe airbag module. Insert the locking tab inthe back of the airbag module connector.

20.7 Remove thesteering wheelretaining nut

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems 10-17

OUTER TIEROD

21.2 Loosen the tie-rod jam nut

INNER TIEROD

21.4a While holding the ballstud with a wrench to prevent it fromturning, loosen the nut

JAMNUT

15 Install the airbag module into the centerof the steering wheel, aligning the airbagmodule alignment pins with the mating holeand slot in the steering wheel. Use the twooriginal or factory replacement airbag moduleretaining bolts. Tighten the airbag moduleretaining bolts to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications. Warning: Makesure the electrical connector from the clock-spring is securely latched into the airbagmodule connector. The fasteners, screws,bolts, and other parts for the airbag moduleare specifically designed and must never bereplaced with anything other than genuinefactory part number replacements.16 Install the remote ground cable on theground stud (at the underhood shock tower)to reapply battery power.

21 Tie-rod ends - removal andinstallation

Refer to illustrations 21.2, 21.4a and 21.4b

Removal1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise thefront of the vehicle and support it securely onjackstands. Apply the parking brake andblock the rear wheels to keep the vehiclefrom rolling off the jackstands. Remove thewheel.2 Loosen the tie-rod end jam nut (seeillustration).3 Mark the relationship of the tie-rod endto the threaded portion of the tie-rod. Thiswill ensure the toe-in setting is restored whenreassembled.4 Loosen the nut from the tie-rod end ball-stud a few turns, while holding the ballstudwith a wrench (see illustration). Disconnectthe tie-rod end from the steering knuckle armwith a puller (see illustration).5 Remove the nut from the ballstud, sepa-rate the tie-rod end from the steeringknuckle, then unscrew the tie-rod end fromthe tie-rod.

Installation6 Thread the tie-rod end onto the tie-rod

to the marked position and connect the tie-rod end to the steering arm. Install the nut onthe ballstud and tighten it to the torque listedin this Chapter's Specifications while holdingthe ballstud with a wrench to prevent it fromturning.7 Tighten the jam nut securely and installthe wheel. Lower the vehicle and tighten thelug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1Specifications.8 Drive the vehicle to an alignment shopand have the front end alignment checkedand, if necessary, adjusted.

22 Steering gear and pressureswitch - removal and installation

Steering gearRemovalRefer to illustrations 22.3, 22.7a, 22.7b,22.15, 22.16a and 22.16bWarning: These models are equipped withairbags. Make sure the steering shaft is notturned while the steering gear is removed oryou could damage the airbag system. To pre-vent the shaft from turning, turn the ignitionkey to the lock position before beginningwork or run the seat belt through the steeringwheel and clip the seat belt into place. Due tothe possible damage to the airbag system, werecommend only experienced mechanicsattempt this procedure.1 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Drain the power steering fluid from theremote power steering reservoir. This can beaccomplished with a suction gun or largesyringe, or by disconnecting the fluid hoseand draining the fluid into a container.3 From inside the vehicle under the dash-board, slide the steering shaft boot up fromthe floorboard area and remove the safetyclip on the intermediate shaft pinch bolt.Then remove the pinch bolt (see illustration).4 Mark the intermediate shaft and thesteering gear shaft with alignment markingsfor later installation. Then separate the inter-

21.4b Using a puller, separate theballstud from the knuckle

mediate shaft coupler from the steering gearshaft.5 Loosen the front wheel lug nuts. Raisethe vehicle and place it securely on jack-stands. Remove both front wheels.6 Detach the tie-rod ends from the steer-ing knuckles (see Section 21).

22.3 At the base of the steering column,slide the boot up and remove the retaining

pin and pinch bolt (arrow)

10

10-18 Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

22.7a Scribe a locating mark from the front suspensioncrossmember to the attaching bracket (left side front shown)

22.7b Also mark the rear position of the crossmember (left siderear shown)

7 Scribe marks showing the relationshipof the front suspension crossmember to thecrossmember attaching bracket (see illus-trations). Be sure to mark each side, at thefront and at the rear.8 Remove the front stabilizer bar mount-ing clamp to body bolts. It is not necessary toremove the stabilizer bar clamp-to-front sus-

22.15 If the vehicle is equipped withelectronic module type speed-

sensing/variable assist power steering,detach the electrical connectors (arrows)

pension crossmember bolts.9 For ABS-equipped vehicles, remove thethree bolts attaching the Anti-lock Brake Sys-tem hydraulic control unit to the front sus-pension crossmember. Using a length ofwire, hang the hydraulic control unit from thebody/engine.10 Remove the left and right side shockabsorber clevis bolts from the lower controlarms.11 Remove the two bolts from the enginesupport bracket attaching to the front edge ofthe suspension crossmember, and the twobolts attaching the rear support bracket atthe rear of the suspension crossmember.12 Remove the bolt attaching the enginesupport bracket to the transaxle mountingbracket.13 Using a transmission jack or two floorjacks, support the front suspension cross-member. Lower the crossmember sufficientlyto allow the steering gear to be removed.Note: Make sure you support the crossmem-ber and do not allow it to hang from the lowercontrol arms at any time.14 Place a drain pan under the steeringgear and detach the power steering pressureand return lines. Cap the ends to preventexcessive fluid loss and contamination.15 Disconnect the pressure switch wiring

harness connector from the steering gear. Onmodels equipped with the electronic speedsensing/variable assist steering, disconnectthe speed sensing/variable assist moduleand solenoid control valve electrical connec-tors (see illustration).16 Remove the two steering gear mountingbolts and isolators at the crossmember andthen remove the two steering gear-to-cross-member clamp bolts (see illustrations).17 Remove the steering gear assemblyfrom the vehicle.

Installation18 If you're installing a new steering gearassembly, carefully grasp the steering gear inyour left hand and rotate the shaft counter-clockwise with your right hand until the steer-ing gear is in the full-left position.19 Installation is the reverse of removal.Make sure you align the marks on the steer-ing gear shaft with the marks on the interme-diate shaft. Gently tap the front suspensioncrossmember into place, aligning it with themarks scribed during removal. Make sure theelectrical connector(s) are fully connectedwith the connector locking tabs securelylatched. Use a new steering gear intermedi-ate shaft coupler pinch bolt, and make surethe retention pin is installed in the bolt after

22.16b Steering gear-to-crossmember mounting bolt(front shown)22.16a Steering gear-to-crossmember clamp bolts (lower arrow)

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems 10-19

23.11 The power steering fluid cooler is bolted to the bumperreinforcement bar (1996 and later models)

23.20 Remove the bolt at the power steering pump adjustmentslot (arrow)

tightening the pinch bolt to the torque listedin this Chapter's Specifications.20 Refill the power steering with powersteering fluid (see Chapter 1), and bleed thesystem (see Section 24).21 Install the wheel and lug nuts. Lower thevehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torquelisted in the Chapter 1 Specifications. Drivethe vehicle to an alignment shop to have thewheel alignment checked and, if necessary,adjusted.

Pressure switch22 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands.23 Remove the pressure switch electricalconnector, located on the back side of thepower steering gear.24 Place a drain pan under the powersteering gear. Using a crow foot wrench,remove the pressure switch from the powersteering gear.25 Installation is the reverse of removal.Tighten the switch to the torque listed in thisChapter's Specifications. Fill the power steer-ing with the recommended power steeringfluid (see Chapter 1), and bleed the system(see Section 24).

23 Power steering pump, cooler andhoses - removal and installation

Warning: Wait until the engine is completelycool before beginning any of these proce-dures.1 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).

Power steering fluid hoses2 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands.3 Lower the front suspension crossmem-ber sufficiently to access the steering gearhose connections (see Section 22).4 Place a drain pan under the powersteering gear. Disconnect the hose from thepower steering gear and let the fluid drain

into the drain pan. Cap the hose and thepower steering gear port to prevent entry offoreign material.5 Remove power steering fluid hosebrackets or tie-straps as necessary toremove the hose(s).6 Disconnect the power steering hose(s)from the power steering pump.7 Remove the hose(s) from the bottom ofthe vehicle.8 Installation is the reverse of removal.Use new 0-rings on the pressure hose fit-tings, lubricated with clean power steeringfluid. Before installing, wipe clean all hose fit-tings and power steering pump and gearports. When installing, do not fully tighten thefittings until the suspension crossmember isre-installed. Tighten the fittings when theentire hose is in place with brackets and tie-strap attached. Fill the power steering reser-voir with the recommended power steeringfluid (see Chapter 1), and bleed the system(see Section 24).

Power steering oil cooler (1996and later models)Refer to illustration 23.119 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands.10 Remove the front fascia and grill (seeChapter 11).11 Place a drain pan under the oil cooler.Remove the hose clamps from the oil cooler(see illustration).12 Drain the power steering fluid from thehoses and from the oil cooler.13 Unbolt the oil cooler from the frontbumper reinforcement bar.14 Installation is the reverse of removal. Fillthe power steering fluid reservoir with therecommended power steering fluid (seeChapter 1), and bleed the system after lower-ing the vehicle (see Section 24).

Power steering pumpRefer to illustrations 23.20, 23.23, 23.24,23.26, 23.27a, 23.27b and 23.27c15 Using a large syringe or suction gun,

suck as much fluid out of the power steeringfluid reservoir as possible.16 Loosen the right front wheel lug nuts.Raise the vehicle and support it securely onjackstands.17 Remove the right front wheel. Alsoremove the right front wheel splash shield.18 Place a drain pan under the vehicle tocatch any fluid that spills out when the hosesare disconnected.19 Disconnect the power steering pumphoses. Cap the hoses and the power steeringpump ports.20 Remove the bolt at the pump adjust-ment slot (see illustration).21 Remove the bolt attaching the back ofthe power steering pump to the cast alu-minum mounting bracket.22 Remove the ABS hydraulic control unitheat shield adjacent to the power steeringpump.23 On four-cylinder models with ABS,remove the wheel speed sensor cablebracket from the right front wheel well (seeillustration). Then remove the grommet fromthe right front inner fender, disconnect thewheel speed sensor connector, and push thewiring harness back through the hole in the

23.23 Remove the ABS speed sensorharness bracket from the right front wheel

well and remove the grommet from theinner fender - four-cylinder models

with ABS

GROMMETRETAINER AND

CABLE ROUTINGBRACKET

10

10-20 Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

FRONT SUSPENSION —LOWER CONTROL ARM — CROSSMEMBER

23.24 Use a 15mm flex socket with long extension insertedthrough the ABS sensor wiring harness hole in the inner fender to

remove the bolt attaching the top of the power steering pumpfront bracket - four-cylinder models with ABS

23.26 Remove the power steering pump/mounting bracketassembly through the area between the rear of the engine,

driveaxle and front suspension crossmember

inner fender and unclip the wiring harnessfrom the frame rail. If the vehicle does nothave ABS brakes, just remove the grommetplug from the hole.24 On four-cylinder models with ABS,insert a socket wrench with long extensionand a 15mm flex socket through the ABSsensor wiring harness hole and remove thebolt attaching the top of the power steeringpump front bracket to the cast aluminummounting bracket (see illustration).25 Remove the power steering pump drive-belt from the pump pulley.26 Carefully remove the power steeringpump and mounting bracket as an assemblythrough the area between the rear of theengine, driveaxle and front suspension cross-

23.27a If you're installing a new pump, member (see illustration).you'll need a special puller to remove the 27 Installation is the reverse of removal. If

pulley from the old pump ... you're installing a new pump, you'll need a

special puller to remove the pulley from theold pump and another special tool (see illus-trations) to install it on the new pump. Thesetools are available at most auto parts stores.First, loosely install mounting bolts and hosefittings. Note: The power steering pumppressure hose must be installed between thefront bracket of the pump and the pump pul-ley. Mount the power steering drivebelt.Using a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar in thesquare adjustment hole of the pump, rotatethe pump to the correct belt tension (seeChapter 1), hold the pump in position andtighten the bottom adjusting slot bolts andthen tighten the top pivot bolt to the torqueli sted in this Chapter's Specifications.28 Fill the power steering fluid reservoirwith the recommended power steering fluid(see Chapter 1), and bleed the system (seeSection 24).

PUMP PULLEY

POWER STEERINGPUMP MOUNTING

BOSS

ROTATE THISWRENCH WRENCH TO

INSTALL PULLEY

THIS WRENCH WRENCHHELD STATIONARY

PULLEY

SPACER IS TO BESEATED FLUSH AGAINST

PUMP SHAFT WHENPULLEY IS INSTALLED

PULLEY

23.27b . . . and another special tool to install it on the new pump23.27c When installing the pulley on the new pump, make sure

the spacer is fully seated as shown

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems 10-21

26.1 Camber, caster and toe-in angles

METRIC TIRE SIZES

SECTION WIDTH(MILLIMETERS)

185195205ETC

7075 CONSTRUCTION TYPE80 R-RADIAL

B-BIAS - BELTEDD-DIAGONAL (BIAS)

SECTIONR WIDTH

SECTIONHEIGHT

25.1 Metric tire size code

24 Power steering system - bleeding

1 Following any operation in which thepower steering fluid lines have been discon-nected, the power steering system must bebled to remove all air and obtain propersteering performance.2 With the front wheels in the straightahead position, check the power steeringfluid level and, if low, add fluid until it reachesthe Cold mark on the dipstick.3 Start the engine and allow it to run atfast idle. Recheck the fluid level and addmore if necessary to reach the Cold mark onthe dipstick.4 Bleed the system by running the enginefor a few seconds, turning the steering wheelfrom side to side several times without hittingthe stops, with the weight of the vehicle off ofthe wheels (vehicle front end raised andsecurely supported on jackstands), thenstopping the engine and rechecking level.This will work the air out of the system. Keepthe reservoir full of fluid as this is done.5 When the air is worked out of the sys-tem, return the wheels to the straight aheadposition and leave the vehicle running forseveral more minutes before shutting it off.6 Road test the vehicle to be sure thesteering system is functioning normally andnoise free.7 Recheck the fluid level to be sure it is upto the Hot mark on the dipstick while theengine is at normal operating temperature.Add fluid if necessary (see Chapter 1).

25 Wheels and tires - generalinformation

Refer to illustration 25.1All vehicles covered by this manual are

equipped with metric-sized fiberglass or steelbelted radial tires (see illustration). Use ofother size or type of tires may affect the rideand handling of the vehicle. Don't mix differ-ent types of tires, such as radials and biasbelted, on the same vehicle as handling maybe seriously affected. It's recommended thattires are replaced in pairs on the same axle,but if only one tire is being replaced, be sureit's the same size, structure and tread designas the other.

Because tire pressure has a substantialeffect on handling and wear, the pressure onall tires should be checked at least once amonth or before extended trips (see Chap-ter 1).

Wheels must be replaced if they arebent, dented, leak air, have elongated boltholes, are heavily rusted, out of vertical sym-metry or if the lug nuts won't stay tight.Wheel repairs that use welding or peening arenot recommended.

Tire and wheel balance is important inthe overall handling, braking and perfor-mance of the vehicle. Unbalanced wheelscan adversely affect handling and ride char-acteristics as well as tire life. Whenever a tireis installed on a wheel, a shop with the properequipment should balance the tire and wheel.

26 Wheel alignment - generalinformation

Refer to illustration 26.1A wheel alignment refers to the adjust-

ments made to the wheels so they are inproper angular relationship to the suspensionand the ground. Wheels that are out of properalignment not only affect vehicle control, butalso increase tire wear. The alignment anglesnormally measured are camber, caster andtoe-in (see illustration). Toe-in on the front,and toe-in and camber on the rear are theonly adjustable angles on these vehicles. Theother angles should be measured to checkfor bent or worn suspension parts.

Wheel alignment is a very exacting pro-cess, one in which complicated and expen-sive machines are necessary to perform thejob properly. You should have a technicianwith the proper equipment perform thesetasks. We will, however, use this space togive you a basic idea of what is involved witha wheel alignment so you can better under-stand the process and deal intelligently withthe shop that does the work.

Toe-in is the turning in of the wheels.The purpose of a toe specification is toensure parallel rolling of the wheels. In a vehi-cle with zero toe-in, the distance between thefront edges of the wheels will be the same asthe distance between the rear edges of thewheels. The actual amount of toe-in is nor-mally only a fraction of an inch. On the front

10

10-22 Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

end, toe-in is controlled by the tie-rod endposition on the tie-rod. On the rear end, it'scontrolled by a threaded adjuster on the rearlateral link. Incorrect toe-in will cause the tiresto wear improperly by making them scrubagainst the road surface.

Camber is the tilting of the wheels fromvertical when viewed from one end of the

vehicle. When the wheels tilt out at the top,the camber is said to be positive (+). Whenthe wheels tilt in at the top the camber is neg-ative H. The amount of tilt is measured indegrees from vertical and this measurementis called the camber angle. This angle affectsthe amount of tire tread which contacts theroad and compensates for changes in the

suspension geometry when the vehicle iscornering or traveling over an undulating sur-face.

Caster is the tilting of the front steeringaxis from the vertical. A tilt toward the rear ispositive caster and a tilt toward the front isnegative caster.

11-1

Chapter 11 BodyContents

Section SectionBody - maintenance....................................................................... 2 Hood latch and cable - removal and installation ............................ 10Body repair- major damage........................................................... 6 Instrument cluster hood - removal and installation ........................ 22Body repair- minor damage........................................................... 5 Instrument panel - removal and installation................................... 23Bumpers - removal and installation ............................................... 12 Instrument panel top cover - removal and installation ................... 20Center console - removal and installation ..................................... 26 Mirrors - removal and installation .......................................... ....... 27Cowl cover - removal and installation ............................................ 28 Passenger airbag module - removal and installation ..................... 24Dashboard trim panels, glove box door handle and lock Radiator grille (Cirrus models) - removal and installation .............. 11

cylinder - removal and installation ............................................ 21 Seat belt check.............................................................................. 30Door latch, outside handle and lock cylinder - removal, Seats - removal and installation..................................................... 29

installation and adjustment....................................................... 14 Steering column covers - removal and installation ........................ 25Door - removal and installation...................................................... 17 Trunk latch and lock cylinder - removal and installation ................ 19Door trim panel - removal and installation .....................................Door window glass - removal and installation...............................

1315

Trunk lid, support strut, latch striker and release cable -removal, installation and adjustment........................................ 18

Door window regulator - removal and installation......................... 16 Upholstery and carpets - maintenance.......................................... 4General information ........................................................................ 1 Vinyl trim - maintenance................................................................ 3Hinges and locks - maintenance................................................... 7 Windshield and fixed glass - replacement ..................................... 8Hood - removal, installation and adjustment................................. 9

1 General information

The models covered by this manual fea-ture a "unibody" layout, using a floor pan withfront and rear frame side rails which supportthe body components, front and rear suspen-sion systems and other mechanical compo-nents. Certain components are particularlyvulnerable to accident damage and can beunbolted and repaired or replaced. Amongthese parts are the body moldings, bumpers,front fenders, the hood and trunk lids and allglass. Only general body maintenance prac-tices and body panel repair procedureswithin the scope of the do-it-yourselfer areincluded in this Chapter.

2 Body - maintenance

1 The condition of the vehicle's body isvery important, because the resale valuedepends a great deal on it. It's much moredifficult to repair a neglected or damagedbody than it is to repair mechanical compo-nents. The hidden areas of the body, such asthe wheel wells, the frame and the enginecompartment, are equally important,although they don't require as frequent atten-tion as the rest of the body.2 Once a year, or every 12,000 miles, it's agood idea to have the underside of the bodysteam cleaned. All traces of dirt and oil will beremoved and the area can then be inspected

carefully for rust, damaged brake lines,frayed electrical wires, damaged cables andother problems. The front suspension com-ponents should be greased after completionof this job.3 At the same time, clean the engine andthe engine compartment with a steamcleaner or water-soluble degreaser.4 The wheel wells should be given closeattention, since undercoating can peel awayand stones and dirt thrown up by the tirescan cause the paint to chip and flake, allow-ing rust to set in. If rust is found, clean downto the bare metal and apply an anti-rust paint.5 The body should be washed about oncea week. Wet the vehicle thoroughly to softenthe dirt, then wash it down with a soft sponge

11

11-2 Chapter 11 Body

and plenty of clean soapy water. If the sur-plus dirt is not washed off very carefully, itcan wear down the paint.6 Spots of tar or asphalt thrown up fromthe road should be removed with a clothsoaked in solvent.7 Once every six months, wax the bodyand chrome trim. If a chrome cleaner is usedto remove rust from any of the vehicle's platedparts, remember that the cleaner also removespart of the chrome, so use it sparingly.

3 Vinyl trim - maintenance

Don't clean vinyl trim with detergents,caustic soap or petroleum-based cleaners.Plain soap and water works just fine, with asoft brush to clean dirt that may be ingrained.Wash the vinyl as frequently as the rest of thevehicle. After cleaning, application of a high-quality rubber and vinyl protectant will helpprevent oxidation and cracks. The protectantcan also be applied to weatherstripping, vac-uum lines and rubber hoses, which often failas a result of chemical degradation, and tothe tires.

4 Upholstery and carpets -maintenance

1 Every three months remove the floormats and clean the interior of the vehicle(more frequerity if necessary). Use a stiffwhisk broom to brush the carpeting andloosen dirt and dust, then vacuum the uphol-stery and carpets thoroughly, especiallyalong seams and crevices.2 Dirt and stains can be removed fromcarpeting with basic household or automotivecarpet shampoos available in spray cans.Follow the directions and vacuum again, thenuse a stiff brush to bring back the "nap" ofthe carpet.3 Most interiors have cloth or vinyl uphol-stery, either of which can be cleaned andmaintained with a number of material-specificcleaners or shampoos available in auto sup-ply stores. Follow the directions on the prod-uct for usage, and always spot-test anyupholstery cleaner on an inconspicuous area(like the bottom edge of a back seat cushion)to ensure that it doesn't cause a color shift inthe material.4 After cleaning, vinyl upholstery shouldbe treated with a protectant. Note: Make surethe protectant container indicates the prod-uct can be used on seats - some productsmake may a seat too slippery. Caution: Donot use a protectant on vinyl-covered steer-ing wheels.5 Leather upholstery requires specialcare. It should be cleaned regularly with sad-dle soap or leather cleaner. Never use alco-hol, gasoline, nail polish remover or thinner toclean leather upholstery.6 After cleaning, regularly treat leatherupholstery with a leather conditioner, rubbed

in with a soft cotton cloth. Never use car waxon leather upholstery.7 In areas where the interior of the vehicleis subject to bright sunlight, cover leatherseating areas of the seats with a sheet if thevehicle is to be left out for any length of time.

5 Body repair - minor damage

Repair of scratches1 If the scratch is superficial and does notpenetrate to the metal of the body, repair isvery simple. Lightly rub the scratched areawith a fine rubbing compound to removeloose paint and built up wax. Rinse the areawith clean water.2 Apply touch-up paint to the scratch,using a small brush. Continue to apply thinlayers of paint until the surface of the paint inthe scratch is level with the surroundingpaint. Allow the new paint at least two weeksto harden, then blend it into the surroundingpaint by rubbing with a very fine rubbingcompound. Finally, apply a coat of wax to thescratch area.3 If the scratch has penetrated the paintand exposed the metal of the body, causingthe metal to rust, a different repair techniqueis required. Remove all loose rust from thebottom of the scratch with a pocket knife,then apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent theformation of rust in the future. Using a rubberor nylon applicator, coat the scratched areawith glaze-type filler. If required, the filler canbe mixed with thinner to provide a very thinpaste, which is ideal for filling narrowscratches. Before the glaze filler in thescratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cot-ton cloth around the tip of a finger. Dip thecloth in thinner and then quickly wipe it alongthe surface of the scratch. This will ensurethat the surface of the filler is slightly hollow.The scratch can now be painted over asdescribed earlier in this Section.

Repair of dentsSee photo sequence4 When repairing dents, the first job is topull the dent out until the affected area is asclose as possible to its original shape. Thereis no point in trying to restore the originalshape completely as the metal in the dam-aged area will have stretched on impact andcannot be restored to its original contours. Itis better to bring the level of the dent up to apoint which is about 1/8-inch below the levelof the surrounding metal. In cases where thedent is very shallow, it is not worth trying topull it out at all.5 If the back side of the dent is accessible,it can be hammered out gently from behindusing a soft-face hammer. While doing this,hold a block of wood firmly against the oppo-site side of the metal to absorb the hammerblows and prevent the metal from beingstretched.6 If the dent is in a section of the bodywhich has double layers, or some other factor

makes it inaccessible from behind, a differenttechnique is required. Drill several small holesthrough the metal inside the damaged area,particularly in the deeper sections. Screwlong, self tapping screws into the holes justenough for them to get a good grip in themetal. Now the dent can be pulled out bypulling on the protruding heads of the screwswith locking pliers.7 The next stage of repair is the removalof paint from the damaged area and from aninch or so of the surrounding metal. This iseasily done with a wire brush or sanding diskin a drill motor, although it can be done justas effectively by hand with sandpaper. Tocomplete the preparation for filling, score thesurface of the bare metal with a screwdriveror the tang of a file or drill small holes in theaffected area. This will provide a good gripfor the filler material. To complete the repair,see the subsection on filling and painting.

Repair of rust holes or gashes8 Remove all paint from the affected areaand from an inch or so of the surroundingmetal using a sanding disk or wire brushmounted in a drill motor. If these are notavailable, a few sheets of sandpaper will dothe job just as effectively.9 With the paint removed, you will be ableto determine the severity of the corrosion anddecide whether to replace the whole panel, ifpossible, or repair the affected area. Newbody panels are not as expensive as mostpeople think and it is often quicker to install anew panel than to repair large areas of rust.10 Remove all trim pieces from the affectedarea except those which will act as a guide tothe original shape of the damaged body,such as headlight shells, etc. Using metalsnips or a hacksaw blade, remove all loosemetal and any other metal that is badlyaffected by rust. Hammer the edges of thehole on the inside to create a slight depres-sion for the filler material.11 Wire brush the affected area to removethe powdery rust from the surface of themetal. If the back of the rusted area is acces-sible, treat it with rust inhibiting paint.12 Before filling is done, block the hole insome way. This can be done with sheet metalriveted or screwed into place, or by stuffingthe hole with wire mesh.13 Once the hole is blocked off, the affectedarea can be filled and painted. See the follow-ing subsection on filling and painting.

Filling and painting14 Many types of body fillers are available,but generally speaking, body repair kitswhich contain filler paste and a tube of resinhardener are best for this type of repair work.A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator willbe necessary for imparting a smooth andcontoured finish to the surface of the fillermaterial. Mix up a small amount of filler on aclean piece of wood or cardboard (use thehardener sparingly). Follow the manufac-turer's instructions on the package, other-wise the filler will set incorrectly.

Chapter 11 Body 11-3

15 Using the applicator, apply the fillerpaste to the prepared area. Draw the applica-tor across the surface of the filler to achievethe desired contour and to level the filler sur-face. As soon as a contour that approximatesthe original one is achieved, stop working thepaste. If you continue, the paste will begin tostick to the applicator. Continue to add thinlayers of paste at 20-minute intervals until thelevel of the filler is just above the surroundingmetal.16 Once the filler has hardened, the excesscan be removed with a body file. From thenon, progressively finer grades of sandpapershould be used, starting with a 180-grit paperand finishing with 600-grit wet-or-dry paper.Always wrap the sandpaper around a flat rub-ber or wooden block, otherwise the surfaceof the filler will not be completely flat. Duringthe sanding of the filler surface, the

wet-or-drypaper should be periodically rinsed inwater. This will ensure that a very smooth fin-ish is produced in the final stage.17 At this point, the repair area should besurrounded by a ring of bare metal, which inturn should be encircled by the finely feath-ered edge of good paint. Rinse the repairarea with clean water until all of the dust pro-duced by the sanding operation is gone.18 Spray the entire area with a light coat ofprimer. This will reveal any imperfections inthe surface of the filler. Repair the imperfec-tions with fresh filler paste or glaze filler andonce more smooth the surface with sandpa-per. Repeat this spray-and-repair procedureuntil you are satisfied that the surface of thefiller and the feathered edge of the paint areperfect. Rinse the area with clean water andallow it to dry completely.19 The repair area is now ready for paint-ing. Spray painting must be carried out in awarm, dry, windless and dust free atmo-sphere. These conditions can be created ifyou have access to a large indoor work area,but if you are forced to work in the open, youwill have to pick the day very carefully. If youare working indoors, dousing the floor in thework area with water will help settle the dustwhich would otherwise be in the air. If therepair area is confined to one body panel,mask off the surrounding panels. This willhelp minimize the effects of a slight mismatchin paint color. Trim pieces such as chromestrips, door handles, etc., will also need to bemasked off or removed. Use masking tapeand several thickness of newspaper for themasking operations.20 Before spraying, shake the paint canthoroughly, then spray a test area until thespray painting technique is mastered. Coverthe repair area with a thick coat of primer.The thickness should be built up using sev-eral thin layers of primer rather than one thickone. Using 600-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper,rub down the surface of the primer until it isvery smooth. While doing this, the work areashould be thoroughly rinsed with water andthe wet-or-dry sandpaper periodically rinsedas well. Allow the primer to dry before spray-ing additional coats.

21 Spray on the top coat, again building upthe thickness by using several thin layers ofpaint. Begin spraying in the center of therepair area and then, using a circular motion,work out until the whole repair area andabout two inches of the surrounding originalpaint is covered. Remove all masking mate-rial 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on thefinal coat of paint. Allow the new paint atleast two weeks to harden, then use a veryfine rubbing compound to blend the edges ofthe new paint into the existing paint. Finally,apply a coat of wax.

6 Body repair - major damage

1 Major damage must be repaired by anauto body shop specifically equipped to per-form unibody repairs. These shops have thespecialized equipment required to do the jobproperly.2 If the damage is extensive, the bodymust be checked for proper alignment or thevehicle's handling characteristics may beadversely affected and other componentsmay wear at an accelerated rate.3 Due to the fact that all of the major bodycomponents (hood, fenders, etc.) are sepa-rate and replaceable units, any seriouslydamaged components should be replacedrather than repaired. Sometimes the compo-nents can be found in a auto salvage orwrecking yard that specializes in used vehiclecomponents, often at considerable savingsover the cost of new parts.

7 Hinges and locks - maintenance

Once every 3000 miles, or every threemonths, the hinges and latch assemblies onthe doors, hood and trunk should be given afew drops of light oil or lock lubricant. Thedoor latch strikers should also be lubricatedwith a thin coat of grease to reduce wearand ensure free movement. Lubricate thedoor and trunk locks with spray-on graphitelubricant.

Windshield and fixed glass -replacement

Replacement of the windshield and fixedglass requires the use of special fast-settingadhesive/caulk materials and some special-ized tools and techniques. These operationsshould be left to a dealer service departmentor a shop specializing in glass work.

9 Hood - removal, installation andadjustment

Note: The hood is heavy and somewhat awk-ward to remove and install - at least two peo-ple should perform this procedure.

RemovalRefer to illustration 9.31 Use blankets or pads to cover the cowlarea of the body and both fenders. This willprotect the body and paint as the hood islifted off.2 Open the hood and support it on theprop rod.3 Scribe alignment marks around the boltheads and hinges to aid alignment duringinstallation (a permanent-type felt-tip markeralso will work for this) (see illustration).4 Disconnect the under hood lamp electri-cal wire harness connector.5 Have an assistant support one side ofthe hood while you support the other. Simul-taneously remove the hinge-to-hood bolts.6 Lift off the hood. Note: A good place tostore the hood is on the roof of the vehicle.Place blankets or pads on the roof first andlay the hood painted side down on the blan-kets.

Installation7 Installation is the reverse of removal.Align the marks around the hinges and bolts(one side at a time) and then check for properclearance. Readjust as necessary (seebelow).

Adjustment8 Fore-and-aft and side-to-side adjust-ment of the hood is done by moving the hoodin relation to the hinge plate after looseningthe bolts. The hood must be aligned so thereis a 5/32-inch gap (approximate) to the frontfenders and flush with the top surface.9 Scribe or trace a line around the entirehinge plate so you can judge the amount ofmovement (see illustration 9.3).10 Loosen the bolts and move the hoodinto correct alignment. Move it only a little ata time. Tighten the hinge bolts and carefullylower the hood to check the alignment.11 Adjust the hood bumpers on the radiatorsupport so the hood is flush with the fenderswhen closed.12 The hood latch assembly can also beadjusted up-and-down and side-to-side afterloosening the nuts. Make sure you place

9.3 For a reference point at installation,outline the hinges on the hood with

a felt tip marker

11

These photos illustrate a method of repairing simple dents. They are intended to supplement Body repair - minordamage in this Chapter and should not be used as the sole instructions for body repair on these vehicles.

1 If you can't access the backside of the body panel to hammerout the dent, pull it out with a slide-hammer-type dent puller. Inthe deepest portion of the dent or along the crease line, drill or

punch hole(s) at least one inch apart .. .

3 Using coarse-grit sandpaper, remove the paint down to thebare metal. Hand sanding works fine, but the disc sander shownhere makes the job faster. Use finer (about 320-grit) sandpaper to

feather-edge the paint at least one inch around the dent area

5 Following label instructions, mix up a batch of plastic filler andhardener. The ratio of filler to hardener is critical, and, if you mix itincorrectly, it will either not cure properly or cure too quickly (you

won't have time to file and sand it into shape)

2 . . . then screw the slide-hammer into the hole and operate it.Tap with a hammer near the edge of the dent to help 'pop' themetal back to its original shape. When you're finished, the dentarea should be close to its original contour and about 1/8-inch

below the surface of the surrounding metal

4 When the paint is removed, touch will probably be morehelpful than sight for telling if the metal is straight. Hammerdown the high spots or raise the low spots as necessary.

Clean the repair area with wax/silicone remover

6 Working quickly so the filler doesn't harden, use a plasticapplicator to press the body filler firmly into the metal, assuring it

bonds completely. Work the filler until it matches the originalcontour and is slightly above the surrounding metal

7 Let the filler harden until you can just dent it with yourfingernail. Use a body file or Surform tool (shown here) to rough-

shape the filler

9 You shouldn't be able to feel any ridge at the transition fromthe filler to the bare metal or from the bare metal to the old paint.

As soon as the repair is flat and uniform, remove the dust andmask off the adjacent panels or trim pieces

8 Use coarse-grit sandpaper and a sanding board or block towork the filler down until it's smooth and even. Work down to

finer grits of sandpaper - always using a board or block - endingup with 360 or 400 grit

10 Apply several layers of primer to the area. Don't spray theprimer on too heavy, so it sags or runs, and make sure each coatis dry before you spray on the next one. A professional-type spray

gun is being used here, but aerosol spray primer is availableinexpensively from auto parts stores

11 The primer will help reveal imperfections or scratches. Fillthese with glazing compound. Follow the label instructions andsand it with 360 or 400-grit sandpaper until it's smooth. Repeatthe glazing, sanding and respraying until the primer reveals a

perfectly smooth surface

12 Finish sand the primer with very fine sandpaper (400 or 600-grit) to remove the primer overspray. Clean the area with water

and allow it to dry. Use a tack rag to remove any dust, then applythe finish coat. Don't attempt to rub out or wax the repair area

until the paint has dried completely (at least two weeks)

11-6 Chapter 11 Body

10.2 For a reference point at installation,mark the position of the hood latch

on the radiator support

alignment marks around the hood latchassembly before loosening the mountingnuts.13 The hood latch assembly, as well as thehinges, should be periodically lubricated withwhite lithium-base grease to prevent stickingand wear.

10 Hood latch and cable - removaland installation

Warning: These models have airbags. Alwaysdisable the airbag system before working inthe vicinity of the impact sensors, steeringcolumn or instrument panel to avoid the pos-sibility of accidental deployment of theairbag, which could cause personal injury(see Chapter 12).

LatchRemovalRefer to illustrations 10.2 and 10.31 Open the hood and support it on theprop rod.2 Scribe alignment marks around thehood latch assembly to aid alignment during

10.3 Slide the cable housing from thekey-hole slot in the hood latch, then slidethe cable through the slot (arrow) in the

release arm and separate the cablefrom the hood latch assembly

installation (a permanent-type felt-tip markeror paint will also work for this) (see illustra-tion).3 Remove the nuts and detach the latchassembly from the radiator support, then dis-connect the release cable from the hoodlatch assembly (see illustration).

Installation4 Installation is the reverse of removal.Align the hood latch assembly with the markson the radiator support and then tighten thenuts. Check hood latch operation. Readjustas necessary.

CableRemovalRefer to illustration 10.85 Disconnect the release cable from thehood latch (see Steps 1 through 3).6 Detach the cable from the clips securingit to the radiator support.7 Inside the vehicle, remove the left frontkick panel to gain access to the hood releasehandle bolts.

8 Remove the bolts securing the hoodrelease handle/cable assembly to the cowlpanel (see illustration).9 Under the dash, locate and disengagethe push-in retainer and cable grommet fromthe firewall.10 Connect a piece of heavy string or flexi-ble wire to the engine compartment end ofthe cable, then from inside the vehicle, pullthe cable with string or wire attached throughthe firewall into the vehicle. Disconnect thestring or wire from the old cable.

Installation11 Connect the string or wire to the newcable and carefully pull it through the firewallinto the engine compartment.12 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal.

11 Radiator grille (Cirrus models) -removal and installation

Warning: These models have airbags. Alwaysdisable the airbag system before working inthe vicinity of the impact sensors, steeringcolumn or instrument panel to avoid the pos-sibility of accidental deployment of theairbag, which could cause personal injury(see Chapter 12).

Removal1 Open the hood and support it on theprop rod.2 Remove the front bumper with grilleattached (see Section 12).3 Using an appropriate size drill, removethe rivets securing the grille to the bumperand separate the grille from the bumper.

Installation4 Installation is the reverse of removal.The grille can be reattached to the bumperusing rivets (if available) or screws, nuts andwashers. If threaded fasteners are used,apply thread locking compound to the screwthreads.

10.8 Hood release cable and handle details as viewedfrom inside the vehicle

12.5 Remove the five push-in fasteners (arrows) securing thebottom of the front bumper to the radiator lower support

Chapter 11 Body 11-7

12.7 To remove the push-in fasteners, pry out the centerstud and then remove the outer housing

12.8 Front bumper assembly details

12 Bumpers - removal andinstallation

Warning: These models have airbags. Alwaysdisable the airbag system before working inthe vicinity of the impact sensors, steeringcolumn or instrument panel to avoid the pos-sibility of accidental deployment of theairbag, which could cause personal injury(see Chapter 12).

Front bumperRemovalRefer to illustrations 12.5, 12.7, 12.8 and 12.91 Open the hood and support it on theprop rod.2 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).3 Remove the fasteners securing the frontfender inner splash shields to the lower sec-tion of the bumper.

4 Pull the splash shields away from thefender well as necessary to remove the boltssecuring the bumper to the front fender.5 Remove the push-in fasteners securingthe bottom of the bumper to the radiatorlower support (see illustration).6 If equipped, disconnect the foglightwiring harness connectors.7 Remove the push-in fasteners securingthe bumper (and grille on Cirrus models) tothe radiator upper support (see illustration).8 Disengage the bumper from the hookson the front fenders (both sides) and removethe bumper from the vehicle (see illustra-tion). Note: If you are performing this jobalone, place some blankets or other suitablepadding on the ground below the bumper toprotect the paint should the bumper fall dur-ing removal.9 If required, the bumper reinforcement barcan be removed at this time (see illustration).

Installation10 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Rear bumperRemovalRefer to illustration 12.1311 Open the trunk lid.12 Remove the left rear tail lamp and dis-connect the license plate light wiring from thetail lamp assembly.13 On Cirrus models, remove the right reartail lamp. Working inside the tail lamp cavi-ties, remove the push-in fasteners securingthe bumper to each rear quarter panel (seeillustration).14 Remove the push-in fasteners securingthe trunk lid slam pads to the rear bumperand the center of the bumper to the rear clo-sure panel.15 Remove the screws holding bumper toeach rear wheel well splash shield.16 Remove the bolts securing the bumperto the rear quarter panel in each wheel well.17 Slide the bumper rearward to disengagethe hooks securing it to the bottom of eachquarter panel and remove it from the vehicle.

12.9 To detach the front bumper bar, disconnect the batterytemperature sensor electrical connector and remove the

three bolts (arrows) at each end of the bar

12.13 Rear bumper assembly details

11

11-8 Chapter 11 Body

13.2 If you don't have a window crankremoval tool (which is available at most

auto parts stores and relativelyinexpensive), place a shop cloth behind the

window crank handle and work it back-and-forth to dislodge the retaining clip

Note: If you are performing this job alone,place some blankets or other suitablepadding on the ground below the bumper toprotect the paint should the bumper fall dur-ing removal.18 If required, the bumper reinforcementbar can be remove at this time, however,before removal use a felt tip pen to mark theposition of the nuts on the bar to aid withinstallation.

13.3 Carefully pry off the speaker grille 13.4 Remove the 3 screws (arrows) thatsecure the panel to the door

Installation19 Installation is the reverse of removal.

13 Door trim panel - removal andinstallation

RemovalRefer to illustrations 13.2, 13.3, 13.4, 13.5a,13.5b, 13.6, 13.7, 13.8, 13.9 and 13.11Note: This procedure applies to both thefront and rear doors.1 Open door and completely lower win-dow glass.2 On manual window models, remove thewindow crank using a special tool (available

13.5a Pry off the screw cover in thepull handle area .. .

at most auto parts stores) or by working acloth back-and-forth behind the handle todislodge the retaining clip (see illustration).3 Carefully pry off the speaker grille (seeillustration).4 Inside the speaker opening, remove thethree screws securing the trim panel to thedoor (see illustration).5 On the pull handle, pry off the screwcover and remove the screw (see illustra-tions).6 Pry the screw cover from the door han-dle latch trim and remove the screw (seeillustration).

13.5b . . . and remove the screw

7 Remove the screw securing the doortrim panel near the upper door hinge (seeillustration).8 Carefully pry around the door trim panelto disengage it from the retaining clips (seeillustration).9 Grasp the trim panel and pull up sharplyto detach it from the retainer channel in win-dow sill (see illustration).10 Position the trim panel slightly awayfrom the door and disengage the clip holdingthe door latch linkage to the door handle.11 On models so equipped, disconnect theelectrical connectors from the speaker,

13.6 Pry off the screw cover in the doorlatch handle trim and remove the screw

13.7 Remove the door trim panel screwnear the upper door hinge

13.8 Carefully pry around the door panelto disengage it from the retaining clips

Chapter 11 Body 11-9

13.9 Grasp the door trim panel and lift it up sharply to detach itfrom the retainer channel in the window sill, then separate it fromthe door just far enough to disconnect the electrical connectors

13.11 Disconnect the outside mirror electrical connectorfrom the door trim panel

14.4a Front door latch assembly details

REARDOOR

LATCHLI NKAGE

BELL CRANK-14.4b Rear door latch assembly details

power door lock switch, the mirror switchand power window switch (see illustration)and then remove the trim panel. Caution: Donot allow the trim panel to hang from theelectrical wires.

14.6 Door latch mounting screws (arrows)- "A" indicates the latch adjustment slot

(front door shown)

Installation12 Reconnect any electrical connectorsand install the latch linkage into the door han-dle. Secure it with the retaining clip.13 Engage the top of the trim panel into thewindow sill retainer channel and press it intoplace and seating all clip fasteners.14 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal.

14 Door latch, outside handle andlock cylinder - removal,installation and adjustment

Note: This procedure applies to both thefront and rear doors.

LatchRemovalRefer to illustrations 14.4a, 14.4b and 14.61 Remove the door trim panel (see Sec-tion 13), except on vehicles equipped withelectric windows, close the window before

disconnecting the door trim panel electricalconnectors.2 On vehicles with manual windows,install the window crank (without the retainingclip) and roll up the window.3 If you are removing a rear door latch,remove the window glass lower rear runchannel.4 Disconnect the lock cylinder, lock but-ton and latch release operating rods from thedoor latch (see illustrations).5 On vehicles equipped with power doorlocks, disconnect the electrical connectorfrom door lock motor.6 Remove the three mounting screwsfrom the end of the door and remove thedoor latch (see illustration).

Installation7 Place the latch in position, install thescrews and tighten them securely.8 Connect the operating rods to the latchand secure with retaining clips. Caution: Donot close the door until the latch has beenproperly adjusted (see below) it may notreopen.

11

14.21 Door lock assembly details 15.2 Remove the plastic water shield from the door

11-10 Chapter 11 Body

GASKET

Adjustment9 Insert a hex-wrench through the elon-gated hole in the end of the door near thelatch (see illustration 14.6).10 Engage the wrench in the socket headscrew located on the side of the door latchli nkage and loosen it a couple of turns.11 Lift the outside door handle all the wayup and then release it.12 Tighten the socket head screw on thedoor latch linkage and check door operation.

Outside handleRemoval13 Remove the door trim panel (see Sec-tion 13), except on vehicles equipped withelectric windows, close the window beforedisconnecting the door trim panel electricalconnectors.14 On vehicles with manual windows,install the window crank (without the retainingclip) and roll up the window.15 On vehicles equipped with the VehicleTheft Security System (VTSS), remove thedisarming switch from the door handle.

16 Disconnect the operating rod, removethe mounting nuts and withdraw the handlefrom the door.

Installation17 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Lock cylinderRemovalRefer to illustration 14.2118 Remove the outside door handle (seeSteps 13 through 16).19 Detach the operating rod retaining clipand operating rod from the lock cylinder.20 On vehicles equipped with the VehicleTheft Security System (VTSS), remove theill uminated entry switch wiring clip and dis-connect the electrical connector.21 Using a screwdriver, pry the lock cylin-der retainer off and withdraw it from the door(see illustration).

Installation22 Installation is the reverse of removal.

15 Door window glass - removal andinstallation

Note: This procedure applies to both thefront and rear doors.

RemovalRefer to illustrations 15.2, 15.3, 15.4 and 15.91 Remove the door trim panel (see Sec-tion 13).2 Carefully remove the plastic water shieldfrom the door (see illustration).3 Remove the inner belt weatherstrip fromthe window sill (see illustration).4 If you are removing the rear door glass,remove the window glass lower rear runchannel (see illustration).5 On vehicles equipped with power win-dows, remove the switch from the door trimpanel and connect it to the wiring harness.This will allow you to move the window asnecessary.6 On vehicles with manual windows,install the window crank (without the retainingclip). This will allow you to move the window

15.3 Remove the inner belt weatherstrip from thedoor window sill

15.4 Rear door glass assembly details

Chapter 11 Body

15.9 Carefully maneuver the glass out of the opening inthe top of the door

16.4 To remove the window regulator, remove thesefive bolts (arrows)

as necessary.7 Place the window approximately twoinches from the bottom of its travel.8 Loosen the screws that secure the glassto the regulator roller channel.9 While supporting the glass, slide theroller channel rearward and pass the screwheads through the key-hole slots in the chan-nel, then maneuver the glass out of the open-ing in the top of the door (see illustration).

Installation10 Installation is the reverse of removal.Make sure there is enough adhesive remain-ing on the water shield to seal properly,replace adhesive if necessary.

16 Door window regulator - removaland installation

Note: This procedure applies to both thefront and rear doors and both manual andpower operated windows.

RemovalRefer to illustration 16.4Warning: On power window models, do notremove the motor from the regulator assem-bly without first clamping the sector gear tothe mounting plate or serious personal injurymay result.1 Remove the door trim panel (see Sec-tion 13).2 Remove the door window glass (seeSection 15), except do not remove the glassfrom the door, let it rest at the bottom of itstravel.3 On power window models, disconnectwindow motor electrical connector.4 Remove the five bolts securing the win-dow regulator to the inner door panel (seeillustration).5 Slide the window regulator rearward andthen rotate forward end of the lower rollerchannel through the access hole in the doorand remove the regulator.

Installation6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

17 Door - removal and installation

Note 1: This procedure applies to both thefront and rear doors.Note 2: The door is heavy and somewhatawkward to remove and install - at least twopeople should perform this procedure.

RemovalRefer to illustration 17.11 Open the door and disconnect thewiring harness connector at the door pillar(see illustration).2 Remove the bolts and detach the checkstrap from the door pillar.3 Place a jack or jackstands under thedoor or have an assistant on hand to supportit when the hinge pins are removed. Note: If ajack is used, place a rag and a piece of woodbetween it and the door to protect the door'spainted surfaces.4 Remove the E-clip from the lower hinge

17.1 Door hinge assembly details

pin, then remove the lower hinge pin (seeillustration 17.1).5 Remove E-clip from the upper hinge pin,make sure door is properly supported thenremove upper hinge pin and remove thedoor.

Installation6 Installation is the reverse of removal.Make sure both hinge pin E-clips are properlysecured in the hinge pins. Check door fit andadjust if necessary by loosening the hingebolts. Note: Place scribe marks around thehinges before loosening the bolts to maintaina reference point.

18 Trunk lid, support strut, latchstriker and release cable -removal, installation andadjustment

Trunk lidNote: The trunk lid is heavy and somewhatawkward to remove and install - at least twopeople should perform this procedure.

RemovalRefer to illustration 18.31 Open the trunk lid and cover the edgesof the trunk compartment with pads or clothsto protect the painted surfaces when the lid isremoved.2 Disconnect the electrical connectorsattached to the trunk latch and center brakeli ght. To aid with installation, attach a lengthof flexible wire to the connector end of theharness and then carefully pull it out of thetrunk lid. Note: If difficulty is experiencedremoving the wiring harness, another alterna-tive is to cut the harness at a convenientplace and install insulated crimp type con-nectors. Disconnect the guide wire from theharness and secure it at both openings of thetrunk lid.

11

11-12 Chapter 11 Body

3 Use a permanent type marking pen tomake alignment marks around the hinge boltheads and hinges (see illustration).4 Have an assistant support one side ofthe trunk lid while you support the other.Simultaneously remove the hinge-to-trunk lidbolts.5 Lift off the trunk lid.

Installation6 Installation is the reverse of removal.Note: When reinstalling the trunk lid, align thehinge bolt heads with the marks made duringremoval. After installation, close the lid andsee if it's in proper alignment with the sur-rounding panels and adjust if necessary.

AdjustmentRefer to illustration 18.87 Fore-and-aft and side-to-side adjust-ments of the lid are controlled by the positionof the hinge bolts in the holes. To adjust it,loosen the hinge bolts, reposition the lid andretighten the bolts. Make sure to mark theposition of the hinges before loosening thebolts.8 The height of the lid in relation to thesurrounding body panels when closed can beadjusted by loosening the lock striker bolts,repositioning the striker and retightening thebolts. Make sure to mark the position of thestriker before loosening the bolts (see illus-tration).

Support strutRemovalRefer to illustration 18.109 Open the trunk.10 Remove the lock caps from the support

18.3 For a reference point at installation,outline the hinges on the trunk lid

with a felt tip marker

struts (see illustration).11 Remove support strut from mountingstuds.

Installation12 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Latch striker and release cableRemovalRefer to illustration 18.1613 Using a screwdriver, pry the sill platesfrom the left front and rear doors.14 Partially detach the lower B-pillar toaccess the trunk release cable.15 Disengage the retainers securing thecarpet to the door opening sills.

18.8 For a reference point at installation,outline the trunk latch striker with

a felt tip marker

18.10 To remove the trunk lid supportstrut, pry off the lock caps at each end

and withdraw it from the mounting studs

18.16 Trunk lid release cable assembly details

Chapter 11 Body 11-13

19.2 Trunk latch assembly details 19.7 Remove the retaining clip and withdraw the lock cylinderfrom the trunk lid

16 Remove the screws securing the trunkrelease cable handle to the floorpan (seeillustration).17 Route the handle and cable into the rearseat area.18 Remove the rear seat cushion and back(see Section 29).19 Remove the left side lower quarter trimpanel.20 Route the handle and cable into thetrunk.21 Separate the trunk lining away from theleft rear quarter panel.22 Remove the trunk opening sill plate.23 Use a permanent type marking pen andmark the position of the striker (see illustra-tion 18.8).24 Remove the bolts attaching thestriker/cable assembly to the trunk closurepanel and remove it from the vehicle.

Installation25 Installation is the reverse of removal.

19 Trunk latch and lock cylinder -removal and installation

LatchRemovalRefer to illustration 19.21 Open the trunk.2 Remove the push-in fasteners securingthe latch cover and remove it (see illustra-tion).3 Disconnect the electrical connectorsfrom the latch assembly.4 Remove the latch bolts and separate thelatch from the trunk.

Installation5 Installation is the reverse of removal,making sure the lock cylinder linkage prop-erly engages with the latch assembly.

Lock cylinderRemovalRefer to illustration 19.76 Remove the trunk latch (see above).7 Using pliers, remove the lock retainingclip and withdraw the lock from the trunk lid(see illustration).

Installation8 Installation is the reverse of removal.

20 Instrument panel top cover -removal and installation

Warning: These models have airbags. Alwaysdisable the airbag system before working inthe vicinity of the impact sensors, steeringcolumn or instrument panel to avoid the pos-sibility of accidental deployment of theairbag, which could cause personal injury(see Chapter 12).Caution: The cover can be easily scratchedor bent, take care in removing the top coverto avoid damage.

Removal1 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Open the glove box door.3 Remove the right end cap and removethe screw.4 Lift the right rear edge of the top coverto disengage the clips along the rear edge,starting from the right side and proceeding tothe left. To avoid damage, do not pry on thetop cover during removal.5 Lift the rear edge and slide the top coverrearward to disengage the clips and thenremove the top cover.

Installation6 Installation is the reverse of removal,

except engage the top cover into the two cen-ter clips first. Place your thumb in the VehicleIdentification Number (VIN) slot and pull thetop cover towards pad to ensure VIN align-ment. If a gap exists between the top coverand the pad after installation, check for a dam-aged retaining clip and replace as necessary.

21 Dashboard trim panels, glovebox door handle and lockcylinder - removal andinstallation

Warning: These models have airbags. Alwaysdisable the airbag system before working inthe vicinity of the impact sensors, steeringcolumn or instrument panel to avoid the pos-sibility of accidental deployment of theairbag, which could cause personal injury(see Chapter 12).Caution: The following trim covers can beeasily scratched, take care in removing themto avoid damage.

Left side end cover (fuse cover)Removal1 Open the left front door.2 Pull on the access handle and pivotingaround the A-pillar, detach the end coverclips and remove the cover.

Installation3 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Right side end coverRemoval4 Open the right front door.5 Open the glove box door.6 Remove the end cover by pulling rear-ward to disengage it from the clips.

Installation7 Installation is the reverse of removal.

11

11-14 Chapter 11 Body

23.2 Instrument panel assembly details

21.8 To remove the center bezel, simplypull it out evenly

22.3 Removing the screw securing theleft side of the instrument cluster hood

22.6 Remove the three screws (arrows)holding the instrument cluster hood

to the instrument panel

TOPCOVER

PASSENGERAIRBAGMODULEEND

COVER

INSTRUMENTCLUSTERHOOD

KNEEBOLSTER

CENTERBEZEL

Chapter 11 Body 11-15

23.7 Knee bolster screw locations23.6 Cubby bin screw locations (arrows)

Center bezelRemovalRefer to illustration 21.88 Grasp the bezel on each side and pullout evenly to remove it (see illustration).

Installation9 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Glove box door handleRemoval10 Open the glove box door.11 Remove the four screws securing thehandle to the door and remove handle.

Installation12 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Glove box door lock cylinderRemoval13 Remove the glove box door handle (seeabove).14 Insert the proper key into the glove boxlock.15 Depress the gray locking tab on thebackside of the lock housing at the threeo'clock position.16 While depressing the tab, rotate the keyclockwise to remove the cylinder from thehousing.

Installation17 Installation is the reverse of removal.

22 Instrument cluster hood -removal and installation

Warning: These models have airbags. Alwaysdisable the airbag system before working inthe vicinity of the impact sensors, steeringcolumn or instrument panel to avoid the pos-sibility of accidental deployment of theairbag, which could cause personal injury(see Chapter 12).

RemovalRefer to illustrations 22.3 and22.61 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Remove the dashboard left end cover(see Section 21).3 At the left end of the hood, remove thescrew securing the hood to the instrumentpanel (see illustration).4 Position the tilt steering wheel to its low-est position.5 Remove the dashboard center bezel(see Section 21).6 Remove the three screws attaching thehood to the instrument panel (see illustra-tion).7 Pull the hood straight back to disengagethe eight clips. If the vehicle is equipped witha Compass/Temperature Mini-Trip Computer(CMTC), pull the hood rearward about threeinches and stop. Reach through the radioopening and disconnect the CMTC wire con-nector.8 Remove the instrument cluster hood.

Installation9 Installation is the reverse of removal.Keep the forward edge of the hood down onthe instrument panel while sliding the hoodforward to engage the retaining clips.

23 Instrument panel - removal andinstallation

Warning: These models have airbags. Alwaysdisable the airbag system before working inthe vicinity of the impact sensors, steeringcolumn or instrument panel to avoid the pos-sibility of accidental deployment of theairbag, which could cause personal injury(see Chapter 12).Note: It is not necessary, but it is suggestedto remove both front seats to allow additionalworking space and lessen the chance ofdamage to the seats during this procedure.

RemovalRefer to illustrations 23.2, 23.6, 23.7, 23.17,23.18 and 23.191 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Remove the dashboard right and leftend trim panels (see Section 21) (see illus-tration).3 Remove the floor console (see Section26).4 Disconnect the Airbag Control Module(ACM).5 Remove the instrument cluster hood(see Section 22).6 Remove the two screws securing thecubby bin and withdraw it from the forwardconsole (see illustration).7 Remove the five knee bolster mountingscrews and remove the knee bolster (seeillustration).8 Open the glove box, squeeze the side-walls in and hinge the glove box door all theway down. Remove the passenger airbagmodule (see Section 24). Warning: Carry theairbag with the trim cover side FACINGAWAY from your body to minimize injury if theairbag module accidentally deploys. Store theairbag module aside in a safe, isolated loca-tion with the trim cover side facing UP.9 Remove the nine forward floor consoleattaching screws and one push-in fastener atforward driver's side.10 Remove the forward floor console (seeSection 26).11 Pull the driver's side under panelsilencer outboard off the distribution duct.12 Remove the instrument panel top cover(see Section 20).13 Remove the heating and air conditioningcontrol module (see Chapter 11). Remove theradio (see Chapter 12).14 Remove the center distribution ductscrews from behind the radio and duct.15 Locate and remove the three heatingand air conditioning unit attaching screwssecuring the duct and instrument panel.Remove the three screws securing the heat -

11

11-16 Chapter 11 Body

23.17 Before loosening the steering column mounting bolts, onmodels equipped with a tilt steering wheel, insert two drill bits

into the locking pin holes 23.18 Steering column mounting nut locations

STEERING COLUMN = DRILLSUPPORT BRACKET BITS

ing and air conditioning unit to the cross-carbeam.16 Remove the five screws attaching theinstrument panel frame to the air distributionduct and the two fasteners at the air ductbelow the steering column.17 The steering column must be lowered,but before loosening the steering columnmounting nuts on a model equipped with atilt steering wheel, use the following proce-dure to lock the tilt mechanism or it will notoperate correctly when installed (see illus-tration).

a) Place the steering wheel straight aheadand ensure the tilt mechanism is fullylocked.

b) Insert two 7/32-inch drill bits into thetwo locking pin holes on the steeringcolumn mounting bracket.

c) Loosen the two upper steering columnmounting nuts.

d) Loosen the two lower steering columnmounting nuts.

18 Remove the steering column mounting

nuts (see illustration). Lower and supportthe column securely.19 Disconnect the engine and body wiringharness from the junction block/Body ControlModule (see illustration).20 Remove the seven fasteners securingthe instrument panel to the cross-car beam.21 Remove the fastener at the glove boxhinge to cowl area.22 Remove the two fasteners at the centersupport-to-floorpan bracket.23 Remove the screw attaching the rear ofthe heating and air conditioning unit to thecenter support bracket.24 Lift up the instrument panel and pullrearward and withdraw it from the vehicle.

Installation

Refer to illustration 23.2525 Installation is the reverse of removal not-ing the following points (see illustration):

a) Raise the steering column onto the sup-port bracket and loosely install the fournuts.

b) Snugly tighten the lower nuts andensure the plastic capsules are seated inthe slots in the upper mounting bracketand the studs are centered in the plasticcapsules.

c) Tighten the upper mounting nuts untilthe upper mounting bracket is seated.

d) Tighten the four steering column mount-ing nuts to 105 in-lbs.

e) On models equipped with a tilt steeringwheel, remove the drill bits from thelocking pin holes.

t) Turn the ignition switch to the Off posi-tion, then turn it to the On position.Check that the instrument clusterAIRBAG lamp illuminates for six to eightseconds and then goes out indicatingthe airbag system is functioning prop-erly. If the lamp fails to light, blinks onand off or stays on, there is a malfunc-tion in the airbag system. If any of theseconditions exist, the vehicle should bediagnosed by a dealer service depart-ment or other qualified repair shop.

AI II I itSTEERING COLUMNUPPER MOUNTING

BRACKET

STEERING COLUMNASSEMBLY

THESE 2 MOUNTING STUDS MUST BEIN THE CENTER OF THE MOUNTING

CAPSULES AS SHOWN BEFORETIGHTENING AND TORQUING THE

UPPER MOUNTING NUTS.Junction/BCM

23.19 The junction block/Body Control Module is located behindthe instrument panel on the driver's side

23.25 When installing the steering column, ensure that the twoupper mounting studs are centered before tightening the nuts

Chapter 11 Body 11-17

24.3 Passenger airbag assembly details

24 Passenger airbag module -removal and installation

Warning: Always disable the airbag systembefore working in the vicinity of the impactsensors, steering column or instrument panelto avoid the possibility of accidental deploy-ment of the airbag, which could cause per-sonal injury (see Chapter 12).Note: Refer to Chapter 10, steering wheelremoval, for driver's side airbag service pro-cedures.

RemovalRefer to illustration 24.31 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Open the glove box, squeeze the side -

walls in and hinge the glove box door all theway down.3 Remove the four nuts securing theairbag to the top of the instrument panel (seeillustration).4 Remove the two screws securing theairbag to the support structure.5 Lift the airbag module up and discon-nect module electrical connector and removethe airbag module. Warning: Carry the airbagwith the trim cover side FACING AWAY fromyour body to minimize injury if the airbagmodule accidentally deploys. Store the airbagmodule aside in a safe, isolated location withthe trim cover side facing UP.

Installation6 Installation is the reverse of removal.Ensure that the electrical connector is joinedsecurely. Tighten the screws and nutssecurely.7 Turn the ignition switch to the Off posi-tion, then turn it to the On position. Checkthat the instrument cluster AIRBAG lamp illu-minates for six to eight seconds and thengoes out indicating the airbag system is func-tioning properly. If the lamp fails to light,blinks on and off or stays on, there is a mal-function in the airbag system. If any of theseconditions exist, the vehicle should be diag-nosed by a dealer service department orother qualified repair shop.

25 Steering column covers -removal and installation

Warning: These models have airbags. Alwaysdisable the airbag system before working inthe vicinity of the impact sensors, steeringcolumn or instrument panel to avoid the pos-sibility of accidental deployment of theairbag, which could cause personal injury(see Chapter 12).Caution: These covers can be easilyscratched, take care when removing them toavoid damage.

RemovalRefer to illustration 25.41 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Remove the instrument cluster hood(see Section 22).3 Remove the knee bolster (see illustra-tion 23.7).4 Remove the two screws from the lowersteering column cover and separate the cov-ers (see illustration).

Installation5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

26 Center console - removal andinstallation

Warning: These models have airbags. Alwaysdisable the airbag system before working inthe vicinity of the impact sensors, steeringcolumn or instrument panel to avoid the pos-sibility of accidental deployment of theairbag, which could cause personal injury(see Chapter 12).Caution: The center console can be easilyscratched, take care in removing the assem-bly to avoid damage.Note: The center console on these vehicles iscomposed of two separate sections.

Floor consoleRemovalRefer to illustrations 26.3a, 26.3b, 26.4, 26.5and 26.61 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Completely raise the parking brake lever.3 On vehicles equipped with a manualtransaxle, pull the gear shift boot down awayfrom the knob to expose the knob retainingclips. Pry the clips away from the shift lever

25.4 After removing the two screws from the lower cover, thecovers can then be separated from the steering column

26.3a To remove the gearshift knob on vehicles equipped with amanual transaxle, pull the boot down to expose the knob

retaining clips, pry the clips off the gearshift tangsand pull the knob off the gearshift lever

11

11-18 Chapter 11 Body

26.3b Squeeze the base of the gearshift boot to disengage it fromthe floor console and then pull it off the gearshift lever

26.4 To remove the shift lever handle on vehicles equipped withan automatic transaxle, remove the set screw (arrow)

and pull the handle off the shift lever

26.5 Floor console forward attaching screw locations 26.6 Pry off the trim plugs (arrows) to access the consolerear attaching screws

26.11 Center consoleassembly details INSTRUMENT

PANEL BEZEL, AND LAMPASSEMBLY, TRANSMISSION

RANGE INDICATOR FLOORCONSOLE

ATTACHINGCLIP

Chapter 11 Body 11-19

27.1a The interior mirror mounts to abutton which is bonded to the windshield

and is held in place by a set screw -loosen this screw .. .

27.1b . . . and slide the mirror up and offthe button

27.4a Remove the exterior mirror bezelmounting screws (arrows) .. .

and remove the gear shift knob (see illustra-tion). Grasp the base of the boot at the floorconsole and squeeze it together, then removeit from the gear shift lever (see illustration).4 On vehicles equipped with an automatictransaxle, remove the shift lever set screwand lift the handle assembly off the shift lever(see illustration). Using a screwdriver, care-fully pry the shift position indicator bezel fromthe floor console and disconnect the electri-cal connector.5 Remove the two screws securing thefront of the console (see illustration).6 At the rear of the floor console, pry offthe trim plugs and remove the two screwsfrom the console (see illustration). Note: Onvehicles equipped with a storage box/armrest type console, the rear attaching screwsare located inside the storage area.7 Maneuver the floor console up and overthe shift lever and parking brake handle andremove it from vehicle.

Installation8 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Forward consoleRemovalRefer to illustration 26.119 Remove the floor console (see above).10 Remove the dashboard center bezel(see Section 21).11 Unscrew the screws securing the stor-age bin and remove it from the console (seeillustration).12 Remove the two screws securing theforward console to the gear selector mountbracket.13 Remove the screws holding the consoleto the instrument panel at each side of theheater/air conditioning controls, storage binarea and panel support braces.14 With all fasteners removed, carefullywithdraw the forward console from the vehi-cle.

Installation15 Installation is the reverse of removal.

27 Mirrors - removal and installation

InteriorRemovalRefer to illustrations 27.1 a and 27.1b1 Use a Phillips head screwdriver toremove the set screw, then slide the mirrorup off the button on the windshield (see illus-trations).

Installation2 Installation is the reverse of removal.

ExteriorRemovalRefer to illustrations 27.4a, 27.4b, 27.7 and27.83 Remove the door trim panel (see Sec-tion 13).4 Remove the two screws securing themirror bezel and remove it from the door (seeillustrations).5 On vehicles equipped with standardmirrors, loosen the set screw holding the mir-ror adjuster cable to bezel and separate theadjuster from the bezel.

27.7 Pry off the caps from the exteriormirror mounting nut access holes (arrows)

27.4b ... then separate it from the door

6 On vehicles equipped with power mir-rors, detach the mirror electrical connectorfrom it's mounting on the door.7 Using a screwdriver, pry the caps fromthe mirror nut access holes (see illustration).8 Remove the three nuts (see illustration)and detach the mirror from the door.

Installation9 Installation is the reverse of removal.

27.8 Remove the exterior mirror mountingnuts through these holes (arrows)

11

11-20 Chapter 11 Body

28 Cowl cover - removal andinstallation

RemovalRefer to illustrations 28.1a, 28.1b, 28.2 and28.31 Lift up the plastic trim cap on the wind-shield wiper arms, then detach the wiper armretaining nuts and remove the wiper arms(see illustrations).2 Peel off the hood rubber sealing stripfrom the cowl edge (see illustration).3 Remove the two retaining screws oneach side of the cowl cover and carefully lift itfrom the vehicle (see illustration).

Installation4 Installation is the reverse of removal.

29 Seats - removal and installation

FrontRemovalRefer to illustrations 29.1 and 29.21 Move the seat fully rearward and

28.1a Lift the plastic trim cap on thewindshield wiper arms .. .

remove the seat track front bolts (see illus-tration).2 Move the seat fully forward and removethe seat track rear bolts (see illustration).3 If the vehicle is equipped with powerseats, disconnect the electrical connectorand lift the seat out of the vehicle.

Installation4 Installation is the reverse of removal.

28.1 b . . . remove the retaining nuts andremove the wiper arms from the vehicle

RearLower seat cushionRemovalRefer to illustration 29.55 Remove the seat cushion by grasping thefront edge securely, then pulling up sharply todetach the cushion from the retainer cups inthe floorpan (see illustration).

28.2 Carefully remove the hood rubber sealing strip from theedge of the cowl cover

28.3 After removing the four attaching screws, lift offthe cowl cover

29.1 Front seat - front mounting bolts (arrows) 29.2 Front seat - rear mounting bolts (arrows)

Chapter 11 Body 11-21

29.5 Folding rear seat assembly details

Installation6 Installation is the reverse of removal.Press down firmly over the seat retainers toensure they are fully engaged in the floorpan.

Seat back - child restraint models

RemovalRefer to illustration 29.87 Remove the lower seat cushion.8 Remove the bolts holding the seatbacks and belts to the floorpan (see illustra-tion).9 Open the child seat and remove the lin-ing. Remove the two retaining bolts within theli ning area.10 Lift up the seat back to disengage thehooks from the slots and remove the seatback from the vehicle.

Installation11 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Seat back - folding modelsRemoval12 Remove the lower seat cushion (seeabove).13 Remove the bolts securing the bottomsof the each side bolster to the floorpan. Lifteach bolster up to detach it from the retaininghook and remove it from the vehicle (seeillustration 29.5).14 Remove the seat back-to-pivot bracketbolts.15 Release the folding seat latch andremove the seat back from the vehicle.

Installation16 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Rear seat back latch/lockRemovalRefer to illustrations 29.22 and 29.2317 Remove the lower seat cushion (seeabove).

18 Remove the seat back (see above).19 Remove the bolts securing the rear seatbelt anchors to the floorpan.20 Disengage the clips holding the left andright upper quarter trim pieces to the innerquarter panels.21 Route the seat belt webbing through theaccess hole in each upper quarter trim pieceand remove them from the vehicle.

HOOKSMOUNTBRACKET

CHILDRESTRAINT

MODULE

29.8 Rear seat assembly details -child restraint models

11

11-22 Chapter 11 Body

29.22 Quarter trim extension assembly details

LEFT QUARTERTRIM EXTENSION

RIGHT QUARTERTRIM EXTENSION

29.23 Parcel shelf assembly details

22 Using a screwdriver, pry off the left andright quarter panel extensions (see illustra-tion).23 Remove the push-in fasteners securingthe parcel shelf to the trunk closure panel(see illustration).24 Pull the parcel shelf forward to disen-gage the clip securing parcel shelf to thetrunk closure panel and remove it from thevehicle.25 Remove the two bolts securing the seatback latch/lock to the trunk closure panel andremove it from the vehicle.

Installation26 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Rear seat back latch handle

Removal27 Inside the trunk, remove the push-in fas-tener securing the latch handle to the bottomof the parcel shelf.28 Detach the handle from the folding rearseat latch (see illustration 29.5).

Installation29 Installation is the reverse of removal.

30 Seat belt check

1 Check the seat belts, buckles, latch

plates and guide loops for obvious damageand signs of wear.2 See if the seat belt reminder light comeson when the ignition key is turned to the RUNor START positions. A warning chime shouldalso sound.3 The seat belts are designed to lock upduring a sudden stop or impact, yet allowfree movement during normal driving. Makesure the retractors return the belt againstyour chest while driving and rewind the beltfully when the buckle is unlatched.4 If any of the above checks reveal prob-lems with the seat belt system, replace partsas necessary.

Chapter 12Chassis electrical systemContents

Section Section

Airbag system - general information.............................................. 29 Instrument cluster - removal and installation ................................. 20Antenna - removal and installation ................................................. 18 Instrument cluster self-diagnosis ................................................... 19Bulb replacement ........................................................................... 16 Multi-function switch - check and replacement ............................ 8Circuit breakers - general information ............................................ 5 Power door lock system - description and check......................... 26Cruise control system - description and check ............................. 24 Power seats - description and check............................................ 28Compass/temperature Mini-Trip Computer

self-diagnosis............................................................................ 30Power window system - description, check and

window motor replacement...................................................... 27Electric rear view mirrors - description and check ........................ 25 Radio, amplifier and speakers - removal and installation.............. 17Electrical troubleshooting............................................................... 2 Rear window defogger heat grid - check and repair..................... 23Fuses - general information ........................................................... 3 Rear window defogger switch - check and replacement .............. 22Fusible links - general information................................................. 4 Relays - general information .......................................................... 6General information ........................................................................ 1 Turn signal/hazard flasher - check, removal and installation ......... 7Headlight assembly - removal and installation .............................. 14 Windshield washer fluid pump - removal and installation ............. 10Headlight switch- check and replacement .................................... 13 Windshield wiper/washer switch - check and replacement.......... 9Headlight and fog light - adjustment ............................................. 15 Windshield wiper motor - check and replacement ........................ 11Horn - check, removal and installation .......................................... 21 Wiring diagrams............................................................................. 31Ignition switch and lock cylinder - removal and installation .......... 12

1 General information

The electrical system is a 12-volt, nega-tive ground type. Power for the lights and allelectrical accessories is supplied by alead/acid-type battery which is charged bythe alternator.

This Chapter covers repair and serviceprocedures for the various electrical compo-nents not associated with the engine. Infor-mation on the battery, alternator, distributorand starter motor can be found in Chapter 5.Warning: When working on the electrical sys-tem, disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1) to prevent electri-cal shorts and/or fires.

2 Electrical troubleshooting

A typical electrical circuit consists of anelectrical component, any switches, relays,motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakersrelated to the component and the wiring andconnectors that link the component to boththe battery and the chassis. To help pinpointan electrical circuit problem, wiring diagramsare included at the end of this Chapter.

Before tackling any troublesome electri-cal circuit, first study the appropriate wiringdiagrams to get a complete understanding ofwhat makes up that individual circuit. Troublespots, for instance, can often be narroweddown by noting if other components relatedto the circuit are operating properly. If several

components or circuits fail at one time,chances are the problem is in a fuse orground connection, because several circuitsare often routed through the same fuse andground connections.

Electrical problems usually stem fromsimple causes, such as loose or corrodedconnections, a blown fuse, a melted fusiblelink or a bad relay. Visually inspect the condi-tion of all fuses, wires and connections in aproblem circuit before troubleshooting it.If testing instruments are going to be utilized,plan ahead of time where to make the neces-sary connections to accurately pinpoint thetrouble spot.

The basic tools needed for electricaltroubleshooting include a circuit tester orvoltmeter (a 12-volt bulb with a set of test

12

12-2 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

leads can also be used), a continuity tester(which includes a bulb, battery and set of testleads) and a jumper wire, preferably with afuse or circuit breaker incorporated, whichcan be used to bypass electrical components.Before attempting to locate a problem withtest instruments, use the wiring diagram(s) todecide where to make the connections.

Voltage checksVoltage checks should be performed if a

circuit isn't functioning properly. Connect onelead of a circuit tester to either the negativebattery terminal or a known good ground.Connect the other lead to a connector in thecircuit being tested, preferably nearest to thebattery or fuse. If the bulb of the tester lights,voltage is present, which means the part ofthe circuit between the connector and thebattery is problem free. Continue checkingthe rest of the circuit in the same fashion.When you reach a point where no voltage ispresent, the problem lies between that pointand the last test point with voltage. Most ofthe time the problem can be traced to a looseconnection. Note: Keep in mind that some

circuits receive voltage only when the ignitionkey is in the Accessory or Run position.

Finding a shortOne method of finding a short in a cir-

cuit is to remove the fuse and connect a testlight or voltmeter in its place to the fuse ter-minals. There should be no voltage present inthe circuit. Move the wiring harness fromside-to-side while watching the test light. Ifthe bulb lights, there's a short to groundsomewhere in that area, probably where theinsulation has rubbed through. The same testcan be performed on each component in thecircuit, even a switch.

"Short finders" are also commonly avail-able. These reasonably priced tools connectin place of a fuse and pulse voltage throughthe circuit. An inductive meter (included withthe kit) is then run along the wiring for the cir-cuit. When the needle on the meter stopsmoving, you've located the short.

Ground checkPerform a ground test to check whether

a component is properly grounded. Discon-nect the negative battery cable from theground stud on the left shock tower and con-nect one lead of a self-powered test light,known as a continuity tester, to a knowngood ground. Connect the other lead to thewire or ground connection being tested. If thebulb lights, the ground is good. If the bulbdoesn't light, the ground is faulty.

Continuity checkA continuity check is done to determine

if there are breaks in a circuit - if it's capableof passing electricity properly. With the circuitoff (no power in the circuit), a self-poweredcontinuity tester can be used to check it.Connect the test leads to both ends of thecircuit (or to the "power" end and a goodground) - if the test light comes on the circuitis passing current properly. If the light does-n't come on, there's a break (open) some-where in the circuit. The same procedure canbe used to test a switch by connecting thecontinuity tester to the switch terminals. Withthe switch on, the test light should come on.

Finding an open circuitWhen diagnosing for possible open cir-

cuits, it's often difficult to locate them bysight because oxidation or terminal misalign-ment are hidden by the connectors. Merelywiggling a connector on a sensor or in thewiring harness may correct the open circuitcondition. Remember this when an open isindicated when troubleshooting a circuit.Intermittent problems may also be caused byoxidized or loose connections. Electricaltroubleshooting is simple if you keep in mindthat all electrical circuits are basically elec-tricity running from the battery, through thewires, switches, relays, fuses and fusibleli nks to each electrical component (light bulb,motor, etc.) and to ground, where it's passedback to the battery. Any electrical problem isan interruption in the flow of electricity to andfrom the battery.

3 Fuses - general information

Refer to illustrations 3. la, 3. lb and 3.31 The electrical circuits of the vehicle areprotected by a combination of fuses, circuitbreakers and fusible links. One fuse block islocated under a cover on the end of theinstrument panel on the left (driver's) side,easily accessible by opening the driver's door(see illustration). A fuse and relay block,called the Power Distribution Center (PDC) islocated on the left side of the engine com-partment near the radiator upper support(see illustration).2 Each fuse, relay or circuit breaker isdesigned to protect a specific circuit. Thevarious circuits and fuses are identified onthe underside of the PDC or fuse block cov-ers.3 Miniaturized fuses are employed in thefuse block. These compact fuses, with bladeterminal design, allow fingertip removal andreplacement. If an electrical component fails,always check the fuse first. A blown fuse is

3.1a The interior fuse block is located atthe left end of the instrument panel - open

the driver's door and pull off the cover.Fuse identification is located on the

underside of the cover

3.1b The Power Distribution Center is located in the enginecompartment and contains both fuses and relays (additionalrelays are under the square cover directly above the PDC)

3.3 The fuses used on these models can be checked visually todetermine if they are blown (good fuse on right,

blown fuse on left)

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 12-3

4.2 Strip about 1 inch of insulation off both wires, then spread thestrands, push them together and twist them in place

7.1 The turn signal/hazard flasher unit is located in the steeringcolumn and mounted behind multi-function switch

easily identified through the clear plasticbody. Visually inspect the element for evi-dence of damage (see illustration). If a con-tinuity check is called for, the blade terminaltips are exposed in the fuse body.4 Be sure to replace blown fuses with thecorrect type and rating. Fuses of different rat-ings are physically interchangeable, but onlyfuses of the proper rating should be used.Replacing a fuse with one of a higher or lowervalue than specified is not recommended.Each electrical circuit needs a specificamount of protection. The amperage value ofeach fuse is molded into the fuse body.5 If the replacement fuse immediatelyfails, don't replace it again until the cause ofthe problem is isolated and corrected. Inmost cases, the cause will be a short circuitin the wiring caused by a broken or deterio-rated wire.

4 Fusible links - generalinformation

Refer to illustration 4.21 The circuit from the output terminal ofthe Power Distribution Center to the alterna-tor and the starter motor (1995 and 1996vehicles with manual transaxles only) is pro-tected by a wire called a fusible link. Fusibleli nks are used in circuits which are not ordi-narily fused, such as the starting or ignitioncircuit(s).2 Although the fusible links appear to be aheavier gauge than the wires they're protect-ing, the appearance is due to the thick insula-tion. All fusible links are four wire gaugessmaller than the wire they're designed to pro-tect. Fusible links cannot be repaired, but anew link of the same amperage rating can beinstalled. The procedure is as follows:

a) Disconnect the negative cable from theremote battery terminal.

b) Disconnect the fusible link from thecomponent at the eyelet terminal con-nection.

c) Cut the damaged fusible link out of thewiring just behind the crimp connector.

d) Strip the insulation back approximately1-inch.

e) Spread the strands of the exposed wireapart, push them together and twistthem in place (see illustration). Note: Ifavailable, this connection may be madeusing another crimp type connector.Use rosin core type solder and solderthe wires together to obtain a good con-nection.Use plenty of electrical tape around thesoldered joint. No wires should beexposed.

h) Connect the new fusible link eyelet ter-minal to the component and tighten thescrew securely.

i) Connect the negative cable to theremote battery terminal. Test the circuitfor proper operation.

5 Circuit breakers - generalinformation

Circuit breakers protect componentssuch as power windows, power door locks,power seats and sunroof (if equipped). Thecircuit breakers are located in the fuse block.On some models the circuit breaker resetsitself automatically, so an electrical overloadin the circuit will cause it to fail momentarily,then come back on. If the circuit doesn'tcome back on, check the circuit breakerimmediately (some circuit breakers must bereset manually). If the circuit breaker blowsagain, check the circuit for a short and cor-rect it as soon as possible. Once the condi-tion is corrected, the circuit breaker shouldresume its normal function.

6 Relays - general information

Several electrical circuits in the vehiclethat draw heavy amperage utilize relays totransmit current to the component. If therelay is defective, the component won't oper-ate properly. Relays are located in the fuseblock and the Power Distribution Center (seeillustrations 3.1a and 3.1b).

If a faulty relay is suspected, it can beremoved and tested by a dealer servicedepartment or other qualified repair shop.Defective relays are not serviceable and mustbe replaced as a unit. Note: Checks for thestarter, automatic shutdown and fuel pumprelays are located in Chapter 4.

7 Turn signal/hazard flasher -check, removal and installation

Warning: These models have airbags. Alwaysdisable the airbag system before working inthe vicinity of the impact sensor, steering col-umn or instrument panel to avoid the possibil-ity of accidental deployment of the airbag,which could cause personal injury (see Sec-tion 29).

CheckRefer to illustration 7.11 The turn signal/hazard flasher is a smallunit located behind the multi-function switchinside the steering column (see illustration).2 When the flasher unit is functioningproperly, an audible click can be heard duringits operation. An inoperative or incompleteturn signal circuit will result in an increasedflasher speed.3 If both turn signals fail to blink, the prob-lem may be due to a blown fuse, a faultyflasher unit, a broken switch or a loose or

f)

g)

12

12-4 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

8.3 Multi-function switch terminal guide and continuity chart

SWITCH POSITI0N MODE CONTINUITYBETWEEN

TURN SIGNAL withHAZARD WARNING

SWITCH OFF

RIGHT A-1 and B-6

LEFT A-1 and B-7

TURN SIGNALwith

HAZARD WARNINGSWITCH ON

RIGHTor

OFFor

LEFT

A-1 and B-6A-2 and A-5A-1 and B-7B-6 and B-7

HEADLAMP BEAMON

PARK C-2 and C-1

LOW C-2 and C-1C-4 and C-7

HIGH C-2 and C-1C-4 and C-8

PANEL DIMMERDETENT 1

23 to 8

9

A-2 and C-6 <100Ω300 to 2630 Ω

LINEAR4.99k to 10.5kΩ

OPTICAL HORN ON C-4 and C-8

FRONT FOG ON C-9 and C-10

WIPER INTDETENT

123456

B-3 and B2

11.87kΩ9.87k Ω7.87kΩ5.87kΩ3.87k1.87kΩ

LOW B-3 and B-21.25kΩ

HIGH B-3 and B-21.82k Ω

MIST ON B-3 and B-21.25kΩ

WASHER ON B-3 and B-1

COMB0-FLASHER-A

7-WAY CONNECTOR-B

10-WAY CONNECTOR-C

open connection. If a quick check of the fusebox indicates the turn signal fuse has blown,check the wiring for a short before installing anew fuse.4 If the fuse is OK, remove the turn signalli ght bulbs and make sure they are opera-tional by attaching them to a 12 volt powersource.5 If the bulbs check out OK, check theturn signal section of the multi-functionswitch (see Section 8). Also check the wiringharness continuity.

Removal6 To replace the flasher, remove the steer-ing wheel column covers (see Chapter 11).7 Locate the turn signal/hazard combo-flasher (black relay) behind the multi-functionswitch (see illustration 7.1).8 Pull the flasher unit out of the multi-function switch.

Installation9 Make sure the replacement flasher unitis identical to the original. Compare the oldone to the new one before installing it.10 Install the flasher unit into the multi-function switch making sure it is fully seated.11 Install the steering wheel column covers(see Chapter 11).

8 Multi-function switch - check andreplacement

Warning: These models have airbags. Alwaysdisable the airbag system before working inthe vicinity of the impact sensor, steering col-umn or instrument panel to avoid the possibil-ity of accidental deployment of the airbag,which could cause personal injury (see Sec-tion 29).1 The multi-function switch is located onthe steering column. It incorporates the turnsignals, hazard warning, headlights, headlightbeam select (HI/LO), headlight flasher, instru-ment panel dimmer switch, fog lights, wind-shield wiper and windshield washer func-tions. There are two levers on the multi-func-tion switch, the left side controls the signalingand lighting, the right side controls the wipersand washer system.

CheckRefer to illustration 8.32 Remove the multi-function switch fromthe steering column and remove the flasherunit from the switch (see below).3 Using an ohmmeter or a continuitytester, refer to the accompanying chart andcheck for continuity between the switch ter-minals with the switch in each position (seeillustration). If any portion of the switch isfaulty, the entire multi-function switch assem-bly must be replaced.4 After the check is complete, replace theflasher unit and install the multi-functionswitch onto the steering column (see below).

8.7 Multi-function switch mountingscrews (arrows)

ReplacementRefer to illustration 8.75 Remove the steering column covers(see Chapter 11).6 Disconnect the electrical connectorsfrom the back side of the switch.7 Remove the 2 mounting screws anddetach the switch from the steering column(see illustration).8 Installation is the reverse of removal.

9 Windshield wiper/washer switch- check and replacement

Warning: These models have airbags. Alwaysdisable the airbag system before working inthe vicinity of the impact sensor, steering col-umn or instrument panel to avoid the possibil-ity of accidental deployment of the airbag,which could cause personal injury (see Sec-tion 29).

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 12-5

10.7 Windshield washer pump (arrow) islocated in the reservoir

1 The wiper/washer switch is part of themulti-function switch, refer to Section 8 forcheck, removal and installation procedures.2 If the wipers do not operate, check thewindshield wiper motor (see Section 11).

10 Windshield washer fluid pump -removal and installation

RemovalRefer to illustration 10.71 If the washer reservoir contains fluid,siphon it into a suitable container.2 Detach the washer fluid hose at the in-line connector on top of the right shocktower.3 Remove the front bumper (see Chap-ter 11).4 Remove the EVAP carbon canister (seeChapter 6).5 Disconnect the electrical connectorfrom the washer pump.6 Detach the washer hose from the reser-voir.7 Remove the mounting screws andmaneuver the reservoir (with pump attached)from the vehicle (see illustration).8 To remove the washer pump, simplygrasp the pump and using a twisting motionpull the pump out of the reservoir grommet.

Installation9 Installation is the reverse of removal. Ifthe pump was removed, install a new grom-met.

11 Windshield wiper motor - checkand replacement

CheckRefer to illustration 11.31 If the wipers do not operate at all, checkthe fuses (see Section 3).2 If the fuses are OK, remove the cowl

11.3 Windshield wiper motor electricalconnector terminal identification

1 Wiper park switch2 Ground3 Wiper switch low speed4 Wiper switch high speed

cover (see Chapter 11) to access the wipermotor electrical connector. Make sure theterminals are clean and tight. Turn the ignitionswitch and wiper switch on. Recheck thewiper operation.3 If the wipers still do not operate, discon-nect the electrical connector and connect avoltmeter to terminal no. 2 (-) and 4 (+) (seeillustration). Turn the ignition switch On andthe wiper switch to the HI position - voltageshould be indicated. Connect the voltmeterto terminal no. 2 (-) and 3 (+), place the wiperswitch in the LO position - voltage should beindicated. If no voltage is indicated in eitherposition, check for continuity between termi-nal no. 2 and ground, if no continuity is indi-cated, repair the ground connection.4 If voltage is present in the HI and LOpositions, remove the motor and check it offthe vehicle with fused jumper wires con-nected to the battery remote terminals. If themotor now operates, check for binding link-age. If the motor still does not operate,replace it.5 If there's no voltage at the motor electri-cal connector, the problem is in the switch,the wiper relays, the Body Control Module(BCM) or the related wiring. Check the wiperswitch (see Section 9) and, if necessary, per-form continuity tests on the wiring. Have theBCM checked by a dealer service depart-ment or other properly equipped repair shop.

ReplacementRefer to illustrations 11.8a, 11.8b and 11.116 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).7 Remove the cowl cover (see Chap-ter 11).8 Remove the wiper motor/linkage assem-bly mounting bolts (see illustrations).Remove the wiper motor/linkage assembly.9 Disconnect the wiper motor electricalconnector and harness clip from the forward

11.8a Wiper motor/linkage mounting bolts(arrows) - left side

11.8b Wiper motor/linkage mounting bolt(arrow) - right side

mounting leg.10 To remove the linkage from the motorcrank, insert a screwdriver between the crankand the linkage, then twist the screwdriverand lift straight up on the linkage to separatethe ball cap from the ball.11 Remove the motor retaining nuts (seeillustration) and separate the motor from theli nkage assembly.12 Installation is the reverse of removal.

11.11 Wiper motor mountingnuts (arrows)

12

12-6 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

12.6 Remove the ignition switchmounting screw

12 Ignition switch and lock cylinder- removal and installation

Warning: These models have airbags. Alwaysdisable the airbag system before working inthe vicinity of the impact sensor, steering col-umn or instrument panel to avoid the possibil-ity of accidental deployment of the airbag,which could cause personal injury (see Sec-tion 29).1 When the ignition switch is in theRUN/START position, it connects power fromthe Power Distribution Center (PDC) to thefuel pump relay, starter motor relay, Power-train Control Module, ABS control moduleand distributor (V6 engine).

Ignition switchRemovalRefer to illustration 12.62 The ignition switch is located inside thesteering column and is activated by, andattached to, the key lock cylinder.3 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).4 Remove the steering column covers(see Chapter 11).5 Remove the key lock cylinder (seebelow).6 Remove the screw securing the switchto the steering column (see illustration).7 Depress the retaining tabs, then detachthe switch and lower it from the steering col-umn.8 Disconnect the electrical connectorfrom the ignition switch.

Installation9 Installation is the reverse of removal.Make sure the switch and lock cylinder are inthe RUN position before installation. Tightenthe switch mounting screw securely.

Lock cylinderRemovalRefer to illustration 12.1410 The ignition key lock cylinder is located

12.14 To remove the lock cylinder, placethe ignition key in the RUN position anduse a small screwdriver to depress the

spring loaded retaining tab, then pull thelock/key out of the housing

on the right side of the steering column.11 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).12 Remove the steering column covers(see Chapter 11).13 Insert the ignition key and turn theswitch to the RUN position.14 Depress the retaining tab with a smallscrewdriver and then withdraw the lock cylin-der from the housing (see illustration).

InstallationRefer to illustration 12.1515 Make sure the slot in the ignition switchis in the RUN position (see illustration) andinsert the lock cylinder into the housing untilthe retaining tab locates the housing. Checkkey operation.16 The remaining installation steps are thereverse of removal.

13 Headlight switch - check andreplacement

Warning: These models have airbags. Alwaysdisable the airbag system before working inthe vicinity of the impact sensor, steering col-umn or instrument panel to avoid the possibil-ity of accidental deployment of the airbag,

12.15 Make sure the ignition switchmating slot located inside the housing(arrow) is in the RUN position before

installing the lock cylinder

which could cause personal injury (see Sec-tion 29).1 The headlight switch is part of the multi-function switch, refer to Section 8 for check,removal and installation procedures.

14 Headlight assembly - removaland installation

Warning: The headlight bulbs are gas-filledhalogen type and under pressure. If the sur-face is scratched or the bulb is dropped itmay shatter. Wear eye protection and handlethe bulbs carefully, grasping only the basewhenever possible. Don't touch the surfaceof the bulb with your fingers because the oilfrom your skin could cause it to overheat andfail prematurely. If you happen to touch thebulb surface, clean it with rubbing alcohol.

RemovalRefer to illustrations 14.1 and 14.31 Open the hood and remove the head-light mounting screws (see illustration).2 To protect the body paint, place a softpiece of thin material such as a credit card orcardboard between the headlight assemblyand the front fender.3 Using a screwdriver applied betweenthe cardboard (or equivalent) and the head-

14.1 Headlight mountingand adjustment details

1 Headlight assemblymounting screws

2 Vertical positionadjusting screw

3 Vertical positionindicator (bubble level)

4 Horizontal positionindicator/adjuster

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 12-7

15.4 Headlight verticalposition indicator - Do

not tamper with thescrew located on the

indicator or calibrationwill be lost. When

properly adjusted, thebubble should be in the

range shown

ACCEPTABLE -RANGE

.75 O UPTO

.75 O DOWN -

BUBBLELEVEL

14.3 While protecting the body paint with paddingplaced between the screwdriver and the fender, use a

screwdriver to carefully pry the headlight assembly fromthe ball socket (arrow)

li ght assembly, carefully pry the headlightassembly away from the fender to disengageit from the ball socket (see illustration).4 Disconnect the electrical connectorsfrom the headlight and park/turn signal bulbholders and remove the headlight assemblyfrom the vehicle.

Installation5 Installation is the reverse of removal.Make sure the electrical connectors aresecurely attached. Adjust the headlights ifnecessary (see Section 15).

15 Headlight and fog light -adjustment

Warning: The headlights must be aimed cor-rectly. If adjusted incorrectly, they could tem-porarily blind the driver on an oncoming vehi-cle and cause an accident or seriously reduceyour ability to see the road. The headlightsshould be checked for proper aim every 12months and any time a new headlight isinstalled or front end body work is performed.The following procedure is only an interimstep to provide temporary adjustment untilthe headlights can be adjusted by a dealerservice department or other properlyequipped shop.

HeadlightsUsing the built-in indicatorsRefer to illustrations 15.4 and 15.61 The headlight assemblies have built-inhorizontal and vertical position indicatorswhich are calibrated at the factory.2 Adjustment should be made with thevehicle on a level surface, with a full gas tankand a normal load in the vehicle.3 Rock the vehicle side-to-side threeti mes, then push down on the front bumperto jounce the front suspension up-and-downthree times. This will allow the suspension tostabilize prior to adjustment.4 Open the hood and check the verticalindicators on the headlight assemblies. Thebubble in the vial should be centered over thezero (see illustration). Note: A bubblelocated anywhere between 0.75 degrees UPand 0.75 degrees DOWN is also acceptable.

5 If the bubble is not within the 0.75degrees UP to 0.75 degrees DOWN range,adjust the vertical aiming screw (see illustra-tion 15.1) as required to bring the bubbleback to the centered location. Caution: Donot tamper with the screw on the vial itself orcalibration will be lost.6 Next, check the horizontal indicators.The arrow on the adjuster should be pointingto the zero mark on the gauge wheel (seeillustration).7 If the arrow is not pointing to the zeromark, adjust the horizontal aiming screw (seeillustration 15.6) as required to align the hor-izontal marks.

Using an alignment screenRefer to illustration 15.138 This procedure requires a level surfaceand a flat blank wall with room to park thevehicle 25 feet from the wall.9 Position a masking tape line vertically onthe wall in reference to the centerline of thevehicle and the headlights. Note: It may beeasier to position the tape on the wall with thevehicle parked only a few inches away, thenmove the vehicle directly backwards awayfrom the wall.10 With the vehicle 25 feet away from thewall, rock the vehicle side-to-side three times,then push down on the front bumper tojounce the front suspension up-and-downthree times. This will allow the suspension tostabilize.

15.6 Headlight horizontal positionindicator - When properly adjusted, the

arrow on the adjuster should be pointingto the zero mark on the gauge wheel

11 Measure the distance from the floor tothe centerline of each headlight lens. Transferthese dimensions to the wall and placeanother masking tape line horizontally ateach location.12 Measure the distance from the center-li ne of each headlight lens to the center of thevehicle. Transfer these dimensions to the flatwall on each side of the vertical centerlinetape line and place a masking tape line verti-cally at each location.13 On the wall at the left headlight location,place a 2 inch square piece of tape 8 inchesbelow the horizontal line and 5 inches to theright of the vertical centerline. This is the targetspot for the left headlight (see illustration).

Vehicle HeadlightCenterline Centerline

15.13 Headlight beamadjusting details using an

alignment screen

12

12-8 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

14 On the wall at the right headlight loca-tion, place a 2 inch square piece of tape 7inches below the horizontal line and 9 inchesto the right of the vertical centerline. This isthe target spot for the right headlight.15 With the vehicle 25 feet from the walland the headlights illuminated in the lowbeam position, turn the adjusting screws oneach headlight (see illustration 15.1) untilthe hot spot of each headlight is centered onit's respective target \spot (2 inch squarepiece of tape). Note: The high beam patternshould be correct after proper alignment ofthe low beam.16 If you cannot align either headlight, orthe light pattern on the road appears incor-rect after adjustment, have the headlightsadjusted by a dealer service department orother qualified repair shop at the earliestopportunity.

Fog light adjustmentRefer to illustration 15.2017 This procedure requires a level surfaceand a flat blank wall with room to park thevehicle 25 feet from the wall.18 With the vehicle 25 feet away from thewall, rock the vehicle side-to-side threeti mes, then push down on the front bumperto jounce the front suspension up-and-downthree times. This will allow the suspension tostabilize.19 Measure the distance from the floor tothe horizontal centerline of each fog lightlens. Transfer these dimensions to the walland place a 3 foot masking tape line horizon-tally at each location.20 With the fog lights illuminated, turn theadjusting screws on each fog light (see illus-tration) until the top of each fog light beampattern is approximately 4 inches below thehorizontal tape line.

16 Bulb replacement

Ash tray/cup holder bulb1 Insert a small screwdriver into the slot in

16.6 Removing the center mounted brakelight from the trunk lid. This bulb is ahalogen type. Don't touch it with your

bare hands because the oil from your skincould cause the bulb to fail prematurely

the light bezel and pry it from the cubby bin.2 Pull the light socket from the light bezel.3 Remove the bulb from the socket.4 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Center mounted brake lightRefer to illustration 16.6Warning: Halogen bulbs are gas-filled andunder pressure and may shatter if the surfaceis scratched or the bulb is dropped. Wear eyeprotection and handle the bulbs carefully,grasping only the base whenever possible.Don't touch the surface of the bulb with yourfingers because the oil from your skin couldcause it to overheat and fail prematurely. Ifyou do touch the bulb surface, clean it withrubbing alcohol.5 Open the trunk lid.6 Rotate the bulb holder 1/4-turn counter-clockwise and withdraw it from the light bezel(see illustration).7 Grasp the bulb and pull it out of theholder.8 Using gloves or a clean shop towel,insert the new bulb into the holder. Note: Thisbulb is a halogen type. Don't touch the sur-face of the bulb with your fingers because theoil from your skin could cause it to overheatand fail prematurely. If you happen to touchthe bulb surface, clean it with rubbing alco-hol.9 Insert the holder into the light bezel androtate it clockwise to lock it in place. Closethe trunk.

Dome lamp10 Using a small screwdriver, pry the domelight lens from the light assembly.11 Remove the bulb from the socket.12 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Fog lightWarning: Halogen bulbs are gas-filled andunder pressure and may shatter if the surfaceis scratched or the bulb is dropped. Wear eye

protection and handle the bulbs carefully,grasping only the base whenever possible.Don't touch the surface of the bulb with yourfingers because the oil from your skin couldcause it to overheat and fail prematurely. Ifyou do touch the bulb surface, clean it withrubbing alcohol.13 Remove the screws securing the foglight assembly to the front bumper and with-draw it from the bumper.14 Grasp the bulb holder and rotate it 1/4-turn counterclockwise and then remove itfrom the light bezel.15 Grasp the bulb and pull it out of theholder.16 Using gloves or a clean shop towel,insert the new bulb into the holder. Note: Thisbulb is a halogen type. Don't touch the sur-face of the bulb with your fingers because theoil from your skin could cause it to overheatand fail prematurely. If you happen to touchthe bulb surface, clean it with rubbingalcohol.17 Insert the holder into the light bezel androtate it clockwise to lock it in place.18 Install the light bezel into the bumperand secure it with the mounting screws.19 Check and adjust the fog light beam(see Section 15).

Glove box light20 Open the glove box.21 Pull down on the light/switch assemblyto disengage it from the instrument panel.22 Pull bulb from socket.23 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Headlight bulbRefer to illustration 16.25Warning: Halogen bulbs are gas-filled andunder pressure and may shatter if the surfaceis scratched or the bulb is dropped. Wear eyeprotection and handle the bulbs carefully,grasping only the base whenever possible.Don't touch the surface of the bulb with yourfingers because the oil from your skin couldcause it to overheat and fail prematurely. Ifyou do touch the bulb surface, clean it withrubbing alcohol.24 Remove the headlight assembly (seeSection 14).25 Grasp the headlight bulb holder retain-ing ring and rotate it 1/4-turn counterclock-wise and remove the bulb holder from theheadlight assembly (see illustration).26 Grasp the bulb and pull it out of theholder.27 Using gloves or a clean shop towel,insert the new bulb into the holder. Note:Don't touch the surface of the bulb with yourfingers because the oil from your skin couldcause it to overheat and fail prematurely. Ifyou happen to touch the bulb surface, clean itwith rubbing alcohol.28 Install the bulb holder in the headlightassembly and rotate it clockwise to lock it inplace. Attach the electrical connectors to thebulb holders.29 Install the headlight assembly (see Sec-

15.20 Fog light adjusting screw (arrow)

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 12-9

16.25 After removing the headlight bulb holder retaining ring(arrow), the bulb/holder can be withdrawn from the headlight

assembly - (A) indicates the park/turn signal bulb/holder16.31 Replacing an instrument cluster bulb

16.50 Inside the trunk, remove theseplastic wing-nuts (arrows)

tion 14) and adjust if necessary (see Sec-tion 15).

Instrument panel bulbsRefer to illustration 16.31Note: Depending on the location of the bulbbeing replaced, you may be able to accessthe bulb from under the dashboard.30 Remove the instrument cluster (seeSection 20).31 Grasp the bulb holder and rotate it 1/4-turn counterclockwise and then remove itfrom the instrument cluster (see illustration).32 Pull the bulb from the holder.33 Install the new bulb into the holder.34 Insert the holder into the instrumentpanel and rotate it clockwise to lock it inplace.35 Install the instrument cluster (see Sec-tion 20).

License plate light36 Remove the license plate light assemblyretaining screws and withdraw it from therear bumper.37 Grasp the bulb holder and rotate it 1/4-turn counterclockwise and then remove itfrom the light bezel.

16.51 Withdraw the tail light assemblyfrom the quarter panel and disconnect the

electrical connector

40 Insert the holder into the light bezel androtate it clockwise to lock it in place.41 Install the light bezel into the bumperand secure it with the mounting screws.

Park/turn signal bulb42 Remove the headlight assembly (seeSection 14).43 Grasp the bulb holder and rotate it 1/4-turn counterclockwise and remove the holderfrom the headlight assembly (see illustration16.25).44 To remove the bulb from the holder,push it down slightly then rotate it 1/4-turncounterclockwise and withdraw it from theholder.45 Install the new bulb into the holder.46 Install the bulb holder in the headlightassembly and attach the electrical connec-tors to the bulb holders.47 Install the headlight assembly (see Sec-tion 14) and adjust if necessary (see Sec-tion 15).

Tail, stop, back-up and turnsignal bulbsRefer to illustrations 16.50, 16.51 and 16.52

16.52 Remove the tail/stop light from thetail light assembly

tail lamp assembly.50 Unscrew and remove the plastic wing-nuts securing the tail light assembly to thequarter panel (see illustration).51 Withdraw the tail light assembly fromthe quarter panel and disconnect the wiringharness connector from the tail lamp assem-bly (see illustration).52 To replace a bulb, rotate the bulb hold-er 1/4-turn counterclockwise and withdraw itfrom the light bezel, then pull the bulb fromthe holder (see illustration).53 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Trunk light54 Open the trunk.55 Carefully insert a trim stick (plastic orwood) between the rear self reinforcementpanel and cargo lamp lens. Carefully prydownward and remove it.56 Grasp the bulb and remove it from thesocket.57 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Underhood lamp58 Disconnect the wiring harness from thelamp assembly.59 Rotate the bulb counterclockwise, thenremove it.60 Installation is the reverse of removal.

38 Remove the bulb from the holder. 48 Open the trunk.39 Install the new bulb into the holder. 49 Separate the trunk lining from the rear

12

12-10 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

17.4 Disconnecting the electrical connectors and antenna leadfrom the rear of the radio17.3 Radio mounting screws (arrows)

Visor vanity lamp61 Lower the visor.62 Carefully insert a trim stick (plastic orwood) between the visor and vanity lamplens. Carefully pry outward and remove it.63 Grasp the bulb and remove it from thesocket.64 Installation is the reverse of removal.

17 Radio, amplifier and speakers -removal and installation

Warning: These models have airbags. Alwaysdisable the airbag system before working inthe vicinity of the impact sensor, steering col-umn or instrument panel to avoid the possibil-ity of accidental deployment of the airbag,which could cause personal injury (see Sec-tion 29).

17.7 Amplifier mounting details

Caution: Do not operate the radio without thespeakers attached, damage to the amplifiermay occur.

RadioRemovalRefer to illustrations 17.3 and 17.41 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).2 Remove the center bezel (see Chap-ter 11).3 Remove the mounting screws (seeillustration).4 Pull the radio out of the instrumentpanel. Release the clips and disconnect theelectrical connectors and the antenna leadfrom the rear of the radio (see illustration)and remove it from the vehicle.

Installation5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

AmplifierRemovalRefer to illustration 17.76 Remove the left front (driver's) seat (seeChapter 11).7 Remove the screws and nut securingthe amplifier to the floorpan (see illustra-tion).8 Disconnect the electrical connectorsfrom the amplifier and remove it from thevehicle.

Installation9 Installation is the reverse of removal.

SpeakersDoor

RemovalRefer to illustration 17.1210 On vehicles equipped with manual win-dows, remove the window crank using a spe-cial tool (available at most auto parts stores)or by working a cloth back-and-forth behindthe handle to dislodge the retaining clip (see

Chapter 11).11 Carefully, pry the speaker grille from thedoor trim panel.12 Remove the speaker mounting screwsand withdraw the speaker from the door trimpanel (see illustration).13 Disconnect the electrical connector andremove the speaker from the vehicle.

Installation14 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Instrument panel

Removal15 Remove the instrument panel top cover(see Chapter 11).16 Remove the mounting screws, lift thespeaker out of the instrument panel, then dis-connect the electrical connector and removethe speaker from the vehicle.

Installation17 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Rear

RemovalRefer to illustration 17.2418 Remove the rear lower seat cushion (seeChapter 11).

17.12 Front door speaker mountingscrews (arrows)

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 12-11

17.24 Parcel shelf and rearspeaker mounting details

18.1 Use a small end-wrench to removethe antenna mast (fixed antenna)

RUBBER GROUNDGROMMET STRAP

18.3 Disconnect the lead from theantenna body

19 Remove the rear seat back (see Chap-ter 11).20 Remove the bolts securing the rear seatbelt anchors to the floorpan.21 Disengage the clips holding the left andright upper quarter trim pieces to the innerquarter panels.22 Route the seat belt webbing through theaccess hole in each upper quarter trim pieceand remove them from the vehicle.23 Using a screwdriver, pry off the left andright quarter panel trim extensions (seeChapter 11).24 Remove the push-in fasteners securingthe parcel shelf to the trunk closure panel(see illustration).25 Pull the parcel shelf forward to disen-gage the clip securing parcel shelf to thetrunk closure panel and remove it from thevehicle.26 Remove the mounting screws, lift thespeaker(s) out of the trunk closure, discon-nect the electrical connector(s) and remove itfrom the vehicle.

Installation27 Installation is the reverse of removal,making sure that the speaker wire connectorsface outward (toward the rear wheels).

18.4 Remove the antenna mounting bolt

Warning: These models have airbags. Alwaysdisable the airbag system before working inthe vicinity of the impact sensor, steering col-umn or instrument panel to avoid the possibil-ity of accidental deployment of the airbag,which could cause personal injury (see Sec-tion 29).

Fixed antennaRemovalRefer to illustrations 18.1, 18.3 and 18.41 Use a small open end wrench andunscrew the antenna mast from the antennabody (see illustration).2 Working inside the trunk, detach theli ner from the right side of the trunk.3 Disconnect the antenna lead from thebase of the antenna body (see illustration).4 Remove the mounting bolt securing theantenna body to the rear quarter panel (seeillustration).5 Withdraw the antenna body from therear quarter panel.

Installation6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

18.9 Power antenna mounting details

Power antennaRemovalRefer to illustration 18.97 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).8 Working inside the trunk, detach theli ner from the right side of the trunk.9 Detach the drain tube from the antenna(see illustration).10 Disconnect the antenna lead from thepower antenna harness.11 Disconnect the electrical connectorfrom the antenna motor.12 Remove the bolts securing the groundstrap and antenna brace to the rear quarterpanel.13 Withdraw the antenna from the rearquarter panel.

18 Antenna - removal andinstallation

12

12-12 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

18.15 Remove the power antenna cap nut

TACHOMETER ...6000 rpmSPEEDOMETER ...100mph (220 kmh)FUEL GAUGE pointer ON ...FTEMPERATURE GAUGE pointer ON ...H

TACHOMETER ...3000 rpmSPEEDOMETER ...75mph (120 kmh)FUEL GAUGE pointer ON ...1/2TEMPERATURE GAUGE pointer ON ...midscale

TACHOMETER ...3000 rpmSPEEDOMETER ...55mph (100 kmh)FUEL GAUGE pointer ON ...1/2TEMPERATURE GAUGE pointer ON ...midscaleTACHOMETER ...1000 rpmSPEEDOMETER ...20mph (40 kmh)FUEL GAUGE pointer ON ...ETEMPERATURE GAUGE pointer ON ...0

1,.5a Instrument cluster CHEC 1 chart 19.5b Instrument cluster CHEC 2 chart

ANTENNA MASTTOOTH (SERRATED)

SIDE MUST FACE TOFRONT OF CAR

GROMMET

FRONT

18.17 Power antenna mast, contact spring and'drive rodassembly details

CHECK ENGINESEAT BELTAIRBAGCHARGING SYSTEMLOW FUELHIGH BEAM INDICATORENGINE TEMPERATURECRUISE

Installation14 Installation is the reverse of removal.Make sure that the fender grommet locatingtab is in line with the slot in the body beforeinstalling the antenna. Make sure the ball ofthe antenna body is fully seated in the grom-met.

Power antenna mastRemovalRefer to illustrations 18.15 and 18.1715 Remove the cap nut (see illustration).16 Turn the ignition key to the ACCES-SORY position.17 Turn the radio ON and while the antennais moving UP, grab the mast and pull it out ofthe antenna body. The antenna mast, contactspring and drive rod should all come out atthis time (see illustration).

Installation18 Insert the new antenna mast, contactspring and drive rod into the body with thedrive rod teeth facing toward the antennamotor (remove the trunk lining if necessary).19 Turn the radio OFF and guide the driverod into the body.20 Install the cap nut. Note: The antennamay not completely retract after initial instal-lation. Turn the radio ON-and-OFF to cycle

the antenna up-and-down. The mast shouldcompletely retract after raising and loweringthe antenna a few times.

19 Instrument cluster self-diagnosis

General description1 The instrument cluster is equipped witha self-diagnosis feature. When activated, theelectronic display, odometer/transmissionrange indicator and all indicator lamps willill uminate in a specific sequence.2 If the instrument cluster is not receivingpower from the CCD bus, the cluster willappear non-functional except the airbag indi-cator lamp will illuminate and a NO BUS mes-sage will be displayed. If this message is dis-played, further diagnosis should be per-formed by a dealer service department orother qualified repair shop.

Starting the self-diagnosisRefer to illustrations 19.5a, 19.5b, 19.5c,19.5d, 19.5e and 19.5f3 While depressing the odometer/tripreset button, turn the ignition key to theOFF/RUN/START position.4 This will initiate an electronic displaysystem check and the illumination (in

sequence) of all CCD bus activated instru-ment cluster warning indicators. Due to thecomplexity of replacing the instrument clustercircuit board, gauges and transmission rangeindicator, the home mechanic should limitservice to bulb replacement (see Section 16).If the instrument cluster circuit board, gaugeor transmission range indicator replacementis indicated, take the vehicle to a dealer ser-vice department or other qualified repair shopfor service.5 There are four check (CHEC) functions(see illustrations):

a) CHEC 1 - Gauges: If all gauges fail tomove or do not indicate at the properlocations, the instrument cluster circuitboard is faulty and should be replaced. Ifany one gauge fails to move or indicateproperly, have it replaced.

b) CHEC 2 - Warning lamps: If any lamplisted in Step 1 does not illuminate,check the bulb operation. If the bulb isOK, the instrument cluster circuit boardis faulty and should be replaced.

c) CHEC 3 - Odometer/trip meter: If anyLED does not illuminate, have itreplaced.

d) CHEC 4 - Transmission range indica-tor/Autostick indicator: If any LED doesnot illuminate, have it replaced.

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 12-13

PRND3LPRND3L AND BOX AROUND PPRND3L AND BOX AROUND RPRND3L AND BOX AROUND NPRND3L AND BOX AROUND DPRND3L AND BOX AROUND 3PRND3L AND BOX AROUND LPRND3L AND ALL BOXESEND

19.5d Instrument cluster CHEC 4 chart - automatic transaxlemodels without the Autostick option

TRIPODOMETER CENTERODOMETER LOWER RIGHTODOMETER BOTTOMODOMETER LOWER LEFTODOMETER UPPER LEFTODOMETER TOPODOMETER UPPER RIGHTALL ODOMETER V/F DISPLAY DIGIT SEGMENTSON

19.5c Instrument cluster CHEC 3 chart

CHEC 4 - TRANSMISSION RANGE INDICATORLED DISPLAYAUTOSTICK

PRND AS 1 AND AS BOXPRND AS 2 AND AS BOXPRND AS 3 AND AS BOXPRND AS 4 AND AS BOXPRND AS AND BOX AROUND PPRND AS AND BOX AROUND RPRND AS AND BOX AROUND NPRND AS AND BOX AROUND DPRND AS 1234 AND ALL BOXESEND

19.5e Instrument cluster CHEC 4 chart - 1997 and earlierautomatic transaxle models with the Autostick option

19.5f Instrument cluster CHEC 4 chart - 1998 and later automatictransaxle models with the Autostick option

CHEC 4 - TRANSMISSION RANGE INDICATORLED DISPLAYAUTOSTICK

PRND1234 AND BOX AROUND 1PRND1234 AND BOX AROUND 2PRND1234 AND BOX AROUND 3PRND1234 AND BOX AROUND 4PRND1234 AND BOX AROUND PPRND1234 AND BOX AROUND RPRND1234 AND BOX AROUND NPRND1234 AND BOX AROUND DPRND1234 AND ALL BOXESEND

20 Instrument cluster - removal andinstallation

Warning: These models have airbags. Alwaysdisable the airbag system before working inthe vicinity of the impact sensor, steering col-umn or instrument panel to avoid the possibil-ity of accidental deployment of the airbag,which could cause personal injury (see Sec-tion 29).

RemovalRefer to illustration 20.31 Disconnect the negative battery cablefrom the ground stud on the left shock tower(see Chapter 5, Section 1).

2 Remove instrument cluster hood (seeChapter 11).3 Remove the 4 screws securing the clus-ter to the instrument panel (see illustration).4 Slightly withdraw the instrument clusterfrom the instrument panel, disconnect theelectrical wiring harness connectors andremove the cluster from the vehicle.

Installation5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

21 Horn - check, removal andinstallation

Warning: These models have airbags. Always

disable the airbag system before working inthe vicinity of the impact sensor, steering col-umn or instrument panel to avoid the possibil-ity of accidental deployment of the airbag,which could cause personal injury (see Sec-tion 29).

CheckRefer to illustrations 21.2, 21.3 and 21.91 If the horn doesn't sound, check thehorn fuses in the Power Distribution Center(PDC) and fuse block (see Section 3). If a fuseis blown, replace it and retest. If it blowsagain, there is a short circuit in the horn orwiring between the horn and fuse block.2 Check the circuit to the horn relay;remove the cover from the interior fuse block.

21.2 Horn relay (A) and rear window defogger relay (B)

12

12-14 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

21.9 Lower horn electrical connector21.3 Interior fuse block relay terminal identification

CIRCUITBREAKERS

Depress the horn pad on the steering wheel,a "click" should be heard as the horn relayactivates. If the relay "clicks" proceed toStep 7. If the horn relay cannot be heard,remove it from the interior fuse block (seeillustration).3 Using a fused jumper wire, connect ter-minals 8 and 10 in the fuse block (see illus-tration). The horns should sound.4 Using a voltmeter, check for batteryvoltage to terminals 6 and 8 in the fuse block.Battery voltage should be present. If voltageis not present, repair the circuit as required(see Section 31).5 Connect a voltmeter between terminals6 and 7 in the fuse block. No voltage shouldbe present. While observing the voltmeter,press the horn pad on the steering wheel -battery voltage should be present when thehorn pad is depressed and absent whenreleased. If the voltage is not present with thehorn pad depressed, the problem exists inthe steering column wiring. If voltage is pre-sent, replace the relay.6 Reinstall the relay into the fuse block.7 Check for battery voltage at the horn;raise the front of the vehicle and support itsecurely on jackstands.8 Remove the push-in fasteners andremove lower splash shield to access thehorn(s) electrical connectors.9 Disconnect the electrical connectorfrom the discrepant horn (see illustration).Connect a voltmeter to the wiring harnessconnector and depress the horn pad on thesteering wheel. Battery voltage should bepresent when the horn pad is depressed. Ifno voltage is present, there is a fault in thewiring. If voltage is present, replace the horn.10 if no voltage is present, connect thevoltmeter positive probe to the DARKGREEN/PINK wire and the other probe to agood ground on the chassis. Depress thehorn pad. If battery voltage is now present,the short exists in the ground circuit. Repairthe circuit as required (see Section 31). Ifvoltage is not present, the short exists in thepower circuit. Remove the horn relay from thefuse block and using a fused jumper wire,connect terminals 8 and 10. Battery voltage

should be present at the horn connector. If itis, replace the relay. If no voltage is present,repair the circuit as required (see Section 31).11 After testing is complete, reattach thehorn electrical connector, install the splashshield and lower the vehicle.

RemovalRefer to illustration 21.1212 Both horns are located behind the frontbumper on the right side frame rail, oneabove the other (see illustration).13 Raise the front of the vehicle and sup-port it securely on jackstands.14 Remove the push-in fasteners andremove lower splash shield.15 Disconnect the horn electrical connec-tor, remove the mounting bolt and withdrawthe horn from the vehicle.

Installation16 Installation is the reverse of removal.Check horn operation after installation.

Warning: These models have airbags. Alwaysdisable the airbag system before working inthe vicinity of the impact sensor, steering col-umn or instrument panel to avoid the possibil-ity of accidental deployment of the airbag,which could cause personal injury (see Sec-tion 29).

Check1 With the ignition switch ON (engineOFF), depress the defogger switch. The indi-cator lamp should illuminate and remain onfor approximately 10 minutes then go out. Ifthe indicator illuminates, the relay is opera-tional - check the rear window defogger heatgrid (see Section 23). If the indicator lampfails to illuminate, either the LED light in theswitch is faulty, a short exists in the circuit orthe rear window defogger relay is faulty.Note: The indicator will illuminate for 10 min-utes the first time the switch is activated and

21.12 The horns (arrows) are locatedbehind the front bumper on the right side

frame rail, one above the other

then will only remain on for 5 minutes eachtime the switch is depressed thereafter,unless the ignition switch is turned to the OFFposition which resets the timer located insidethe Body Control Module.2 If the indicator light fails to illuminate,check the circuit to the rear window defoggerrelay; remove the cover from the interior fuseblock. Depress the defogger switch, a "click"should be heard as the rear window defoggerrelay activates (see illustration 21.2). If therelay "clicks" check the rear window defog-ger heat grid (see Section 23). If the rear win-dow defogger relay cannot be heard, removeit from the fuse block and with the ignitionkey ON (engine OFF), check for battery volt-age to the rear window defogger relay termi-nals 15 and 11 (see illustration 21.3). Batteryvoltage should be present. If no voltage ispresent, repair the circuit (see Section 31).3 Next, connect the voltmeter betweenrelay terminals 13 and 15. With the defoggerswitch depressed, battery voltage should bepresent. If battery voltage is present, replacethe relay. If no voltage is present, repair thecircuit.4 Remove the heater/air conditioning con-trol assembly (see Chapter 3), but DO NOTdisconnect the electrical connectors.

22 Rear window defogger switch -check and replacement

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 12-15

23.4 Rear window defogger testing locations

BREAK GRID LINE

MASKING TAPE

23.13 When repairing a heat element, place masking tape on bothsides of the element to make a straight path for the epoxy

5 With the ignition switch OFF, use anohmmeter to backprobe the 8-way electricalconnector RED wire (+) and the BLACK/PINK(-) wire. Note: To backprobe an electricalconnector, use pins or paper clips insertedinto the rear of the connector (or wire) to facil-itate meter attachment. Be careful not toshort the probes during this process.6 Depress the defogger switch, the resis-tance should be between 500 and 520 ohms.If the resistance is out of tolerance, replacethe defogger switch.7 Next, switch the multi-meter to the voltsscale and turn the ignition key ON (engineOFF). Battery voltage should be present. Ifnot, repair the circuit (see Section 31).

Replacement8 The rear window defogger switch isincorporated into the heating/air conditioningcontrol assembly, refer to Chapter 3 forreplacement procedures.

23 Rear window defogger heat grid- check and repair

6 Next, connect the voltmeter negativeprobe to a good ground on the chassis. If theground circuit is OK, the reading should staythe same. If not, repair the ground circuit (seeSection 31).7 Connect the negative lead to terminal B,then touch each grid line at the mid-pointwith the positive lead.8 The reading should be approximately 5to 6 volts. If the reading is 0, there is a breakbetween mid-point C and terminal A.9 A 10 to 12 volt reading is an indication ofa break between terminal B and mid-point C.Move the lead toward the break; the voltagewill change when the break is crossed.

RepairRefer to illustration 23.1310 Repair the break in the heating elementusing repair kit recommended specifically forthis purpose, such as Mopar Repair Kit No.4267922 (or equivalent). Included in this kit isplastic conductive epoxy.11 Prior to repairing a break, turn off thesystem and allow it to de-energize for a fewminutes.12 Lightly buff the element area with fine

steel wool, then clean it thoroughly with rub-bing alcohol.13 Use masking tape to mask off the areaof repair (see illustration).14 Mix the epoxy thoroughly, according tothe instructions on the package. Warning:Read the warning instructions included withthe kit relating to the chemical componentmakeup of the kit (epoxy resin and amine typehardener) and protect yourself accordingly.15 Follow the instructions in the kit andapply the conductive epoxy material to theslit in the masking tape, overlapping theundamaged area about 3/4-inch on eitherend.16 Allow the repair to cure for 24 hours (atroom temperature) before removing the tapeand using the system.

24 Cruise control system -description and check

General descriptionRefer to illustration 24.11 The cruise control system maintains

1 The rear window defogger consists of anumber of horizontal elements baked ontothe inner surface of the rear window glass.2 Small breaks in the element can berepaired without removing the rear window.

CheckRefer to illustration 23.4Note: When measuring the voltage at the rearwindow defogger heat grid, wrap a piece ofaluminum foil around the voltmeter probesand press the foil against the heating elementwith your finger.3 Turn the ignition switch and defoggersystem switches to the ON position.4 Working within the back seat area,ground the negative lead of a voltmeter toterminal B (lower corner passengers side)and the positive lead to terminal A (lower cor-ner drivers side) of the defogger grid (seeillustration).5 The voltmeter should read between 10and 12 volts. If the reading is lower, there is apoor ground connection. Check the groundconnection at the right rear wheel well.

24.1 Cruise control system - mechanical components

12

12-16 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

SWITCHPOSITION

CONTINUITYBETWEEN

RESISTANCEVALUE

UNLOCK 1 and 4 2700 Ω ± 10%

LOCK 1 and 4 620 Ω ± 10%

26.5 Power door lockswitch terminal guideand continuity chart

vehicle speed with a vacuum-actuated servomotor located in the engine compartment,which is connected to the throttle linkage bya cable (see illustration). The system con-sists of the Powertrain Control Module(PCM), brake switch, control switches, arelay, the vehicle speed sensor and associ-ated wiring. Listed below are some generalprocedures that may be used to locate com-mon cruise control problems.

Check2 If the system does not operate, checkthe fuse (see Section 3). Also check the vac-uum hose to the cruise control servo to makesure it's not plugged, cracked or soft (whichwill cause it to collapse in operation. With theengine off, check the servo by applying vac-uum (with a hand-operated vacuum pump) tothe vacuum fitting on the servo - the servoshould move the throttle linkage and holdvacuum if it's working properly.3 Have an assistant operate the brakeli ghts while you check their operation (voltagefrom the brake light switch deactivates thecruise control).4 If the brake lights don't come on ordon't shut off the cruise control, correct theproblem and recheck cruise control opera-tion.5 Inspect the cable linkage between thecruise control servo and the throttle linkage.The cruise control servo is located on the left(driver's) side of the vehicle.6 Visually inspect the wires connected tothe cruise control servo and check for dam-age and broken wires.7 The cruise control on these vehicles usetwo types of Vehicle Speed Sensors (VSS).The VSS is located in the transaxle. Note:Due to the complexity of diagnosing the Out-put speed sensor on automatic transaxles,this manual only addresses the VSS on man-ual transaxles. However, you can still makesure the electrical connector at the sensor isclean and tight. Refer to Chapter 6 for infor-mation on checking the VSS on manualtransaxles.8 Test drive the vehicle to determine if thecruise control is now working properly. If itisn't, take it to a dealer service department oran automotive electrical specialist for furtherdiagnosis and repair.

25 Electric rear view mirrors -description and check

General description1 Electric rear view mirrors use twomotors to move the glass; one for up-and-down adjustments and one for left-to-rightadjustments. The motors are integral with themirror assembly and not serviceable.

Check2 The control switch, located in thedriver's door panel, has a selector portion

which sends voltage to the left or right sidemirror. With the ignition ON but the engineOFF, roll down the windows and operate themirror control switch through all functions(l eft-right and up-down) for both the left andright side mirrors.3 Listen carefully for the sound of theelectric motors running in the mirrors.4 If the motors can be heard but the mirrorglass doesn't move, there's probably a prob-lem with the drive mechanism inside the mir-ror. Remove and disassemble the exteriormirror to locate the problem and correct ifpossible (see Chapter 11).5 If the mirrors don't operate and nosound comes from the mirrors, check thefuses (see Section 3).6 If the fuses are OK, remove the door trimpanel (see Chapter 11).7 Turn the ignition switch ON and checkfor battery voltage at the mirror switch electri-cal connector PINK wire terminal. Batteryvoltage should be present. If there's no volt-age at the switch, check for an open or shortin the wiring between the fuse panel and theswitch and repair the circuit (see Section 31).Note: It's common for wires to break in theportion of the harness between the body anddoor (opening and closing the door fatiguesand eventually breaks the wires).8 If voltage is present, connect a jumperwire from the BLACK wire terminal to a goodground on the chassis. Use another fusedjumper wire and connect the PINK wire termi-nal to each one of the other terminals with theignition switch ON (engine OFF). If the mirrormotor operates, replace the switch. If the mir-ror does not respond, replace the discrepantmirror assembly (see Chapter 11).

26 Power door lock system -description and check

General description1 Power door lock systems are operatedby bi-directional solenoids located in eachdoor latch. The lock switches have two oper-ating positions: Lock and Unlock. Theseswitches connect voltage to the door latchsolenoids. Depending on which way theswitch is activated, it reverses polarity, allow-ing the two sides of the circuit to be usedalternately as the feed (positive) and groundside.

CheckRefer to illustration 26.52 Check the fuses (see Section 3).3 Operate the door lock switches in bothdirections (Lock and Unlock) with the ignitionON (engine OFF). Listen for the click of thesolenoid operating.4 If there's no click, check for voltage atthe switches. If no voltage is present, checkthe wiring between the fuse panel and theswitches for continuity.5 If voltage is present but no click isheard, remove the door trim panel (see Chap-ter 11). Using an ohmmeter and the accom-panying chart, check for continuity betweenthe switch terminals with the switch in eachposition (see illustration). Replace theswitch if the resistance value is not as speci-fied.6 With the ignition ON (engine OFF), use avoltmeter to check for battery voltage to theswitch electrical connector at the PINK wireterminal. Repair the wiring if voltage is notpresent.7 If the switch is OK and voltage is pre-sent but the solenoid still doesn't click, checkthe wiring between the switch and solenoidfor continuity. Repair the wiring if there's nocontinuity.8 Using a voltmeter, check for batteryvoltage at the solenoid electrical connector;with the ignition switch ON (engine OFF)operate the lock switch. One of the wiresshould have voltage in the Lock position; theother should have voltage in the Unlock posi-tion. If voltage is present, replace the doorlatch assembly (see Chapter 11). If the inop-erative solenoid isn't receiving voltage, checkfor an open or short in the wire between theswitch and the solenoid. Note: It's commonfor wires to break in the portion of the harnessbetween the body and door (opening andclosing the door fatigues and eventuallybreaks the wires).

27 Power window system -description, check and windowmotor replacement

General description1 The power window system consists ofthe circuit breaker, control switches, themotors, glass mechanisms (regulators), and

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 12-17

27.9b Remote power window switch terminal guide andcontinuity chart

SWITCHPositionCONTINUITY

BETWEENTERMINALS

CONTINUITYBETWEEN

TERMINALSOFF PIN 10 to 2

PIN 10 to 3PIN 10 to 4PIN 10 to 7PIN 10 to 8PIN 10 to 9PIN 10 to 11PIN 10 to 12

UP DRIVER'S PIN 1 to 7PIN 8 to 10

UP RIGHT PIN 1 to 12FRONT PIN 10 to 11

UP LEFT PIN 3 to 10REAR PIN 1 to 2

UP RIGHT PIN 1 to 4REAR PIN9to 10

DOWN DRIVER'S PIN 1 to 8PIN7to10

DOWN RIGHT PIN 1 to 11FRONT PIN 10 to 12

DOWN LEFT PIN 3 to 1REAR PIN 2 to 10

DOWN RIGHT PIN 1 to 9REAR PIN 4 to 10

WINDOW LOCK PIN 1 to 5

27.9a Power window master (driver's) switch terminal guide andcontinuity chart

SWITCH

POSITION

associated wiring.2 Power windows are wired so they canbe lowered and raised from the master con-trol switch by the driver or by remoteswitches located at the individual windows.Each window has a separate motor which isreversible. The position of the control switchdetermines the polarity and therefore thedirection of operation.3 The power window system will operateonly when the ignition switch is in the ONposition.

CheckRefer to illustrations 27.9a and 27.9b4 These procedures are general in nature,so if you can't find the problem after perform-ing them, take the vehicle to a dealer servicedepartment or other qualified repair shop forfurther diagnosis and/or repair.5 If the power windows don't work at all,check the circuit breaker continuity (see Sec-tion 3).6 If the circuit breaker is OK, remove thedoor trim panel from the driver's door (seeChapter 11).7 With the ignition ON (engine OFF), use avoltmeter to check for battery voltage to themaster switch electrical connector at the TANwire terminal. Note: Battery voltage shouldalso be present at one terminal on eachremote switch. Repair the wiring if voltage isnot present.8 If one window is inoperative from themaster control switch, try the control switch

located at that window. Note: This doesn'tapply to the driver's door window.9 If a window works from one switch, butnot the other, remove the door trim panel(see Chapter 11) and check the switch forcontinuity. Use an ohmmeter and the accom-panying chart to check for continuitybetween the switch terminals with the switchin each position (see illustrations). Replacethe switch if continuity is not as specified.10 If the switch tests OK, check for a shortor open circuit in the wiring between theaffected switch and the window motor.11 If one window is inoperative from bothswitches, remove the trim panel from theaffected door (see Chapter 11) and check forvoltage at the motor while the switch is oper-ated.12 If voltage is reaching the motor, discon-nect the glass from the regulator (see Chap-ter 11). Move the window up and down byhand while checking for binding and damage.Also check for binding and damage to theregulator. If the regulator is not damaged andthe window moves up and down smoothly,replace the motor (see below). If there's bind-ing or damage, lubricate, repair or replaceparts, as necessary.13 If voltage isn't reaching the motor andswitch continuity is OK, check the wiring inthe circuit for continuity between the interiorfuse block and the switch, master switch toremote switch, and local switch to the win-dow motor. Note: It's common for wires tobreak in the portion of the harness betweenthe body and door (opening and closing the

door fatigues and eventually breaks thewires).14 Test window operation after you are fin-ished to confirm proper repairs.

Window motor - replacementRefer to illustration 27.17Warning: Do not remove the window motorfrom the regulator assembly without firstclamping the sector gear to the mountingplate or serious personal injury may result.The sector gear is spring loaded.15 Remove the window regulator (seeChapter 11).16 Using a C-clamp or locking pliers, clampthe sector gear to the mounting plate.17 Remove the bolts securing the motorand remove it from the regulator (see illus-tration).18 Installation is the reverse of removal.

28 Power seats - description andcheck

General description1 Power seats allow you to adjust theposition of the seat with little effort. Theoptional power seats on these vehicles adjust8 ways; forward and backward, up anddown, tilt forward and backward, and reclineup and down.2 The power seat system consists of fourindividual electric motors, the seat switch, a

12

12-18 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

SWITCH POSITION CONTINUITYBETWEEN

OFF 1-2, 1-3,1-6, 1-7,1-9, 1-10

1-4,1-8,

SEATBACK RECLINER UP 5-2, 1-4SEATBACK RECLINER DOWN 5-4, 1-2SEAT BACKWARD 5-3, 1-6

SEAT FORWARD 5-6, 1-3FRONT RISER UP 5-4, 1-10

FRONT RISER DOWN 5-10, 1-7REAR RISER UP 5-8, 1-9REAR RISER DOWN 5-9, 1-8

20 amp circuit breaker (located in the interiorfuse block), a 40 amp fuse located in thePower Distribution Center and the wires thatconnect them.

CheckRefer to illustration 28.83 These procedures are general in nature,

29.1a The driver's side airbag (arrow) islocated in the steering column horn pad

so if you can't find the problem after perform-ing them, take the vehicle to a dealer servicedepartment or other qualified repair shop forfurther diagnosis and/or repair.4 First, look under the seat for any objectswhich may be caught in the seat mechanismpreventing the seat from moving.5 Check the circuit breaker continuity (seeSection 3).6 In a quiet place, operate the seat switchand listen for motor actuation. If you can hearthe motors, but the seat doesn't move,something is jammed in the mechanism orthe mechanism itself is damaged. Repair orreplace parts as necessary.7 If the motors don't make any sound,check for battery voltage at the seat switchconnector RED wire. Battery voltage shouldbe present, if it isn't, repair the wiring.8 If voltage is present at the RED wire,remove the seat switch and check it for conti-nuity in all operating positions (see illustra-tion). Replace the switch if any position doesnot have continuity as specified.9 If the switch is OK, check the operationof each individual motor. Disconnect theelectrical connector from the motor. Usingfused jumper wires, apply battery voltage tothe motor electrical connector. The motor

should operate. Reverse the polarity of thevoltage applied. The motor should operate inthe opposite direction. If the motor fails torespond as noted, replace the motor(s).10 If the switch is OK and the motors areoperational, an open circuit exists betweenthe switch and the motor(s). Repair the wiringas required.

General descriptionRefer to illustrations 29.1a, 29.1b and 29.1c

These models are equipped with a Sup-plemental Restraint System (SRS), morecommonly called an airbag system. This sys-tem is designed to protect the driver andfront seat passenger from serious injury in theevent of a collision. It consists of airbag mod-ules in the center of the steering wheel andthe right side top surface of the dashboard(see illustrations). The Airbag Control Mod-ule (ACM), which is mounted on the floorpanbetween the shift lever and the parking brakelever under the center console, controls thesystem and also incorporates the impactsensor (see illustration).

Airbag modulesEach airbag module contains a housing

incorporating the cushion (airbag) and inflatorunit. The inflator assembly is mounted on theback of the housing over a hole throughwhich gas is expelled, inflating the bagalmost instantaneously when an electricalsignal is sent from the system. The steeringcolumn incorporates a specially wound wirecalled a clockspring that carries this signal tothe module regardless of the steering wheelposition. The clockspring is a flat, ribbon-likeelectrically conductive tape which is woundso that the steering wheel can be rotated toany position without ever loosing electricalcontact.

10 0

28.8 Power seat switch 29 Airbag system - generalterminal guide and

continuity chartinformation

29.1b The passenger's airbag (arrow) is located on the dashboardabove the glove box

29.1c The Airbag Control Module is located under the centerconsole and mounted to the floorpan

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 12-19

Impact sensorThe system has one impact sensor

located inside the Airbag Control Module(ACM). The impact sensor acts as a thresholdsensitive switch that completes an electricalcircuit during an impact of sufficient G-force.When the circuit is completed, the airbagsinflate.

Airbag Control Module (ACM)The ACM also contains the safing sen-

sor, a capacitor that maintains an electricalcharge strong enough to deploy the airbagswhich lasts approximately two minutes afterthe battery power has been disconnected.Additionally, the ACM incorporates an on-board microprocessor which monitors theoperation of the system. It checks this sys-tem every time the vehicle is started, causingthe AIRBAG light to go on, then off, if the sys-tem is operating properly. If there is a fault inthe system, the light will go on and stay on, orthe light will fail to go on, and the ACM willstore fault codes indicating the nature of thefault. If the AIRBAG light does go on and stayon, the vehicle should be taken to your dealerimmediately for service.

Disabling the airbag systemWhenever working in the vicinity of the

center console, steering column or instru-ment panel the airbags must be disarmed. Todisable the airbag system, perform the fol-lowing steps:

a) Make sure the steering wheel is in thestraight-ahead position, turn the ignitionkey to the Lock position and remove thekey.

b) Disconnect and isolate the negative bat-

tery cable from the ground stud on theleft shock tower (see Chapter 5, Sec-tion 1).

c) Wait at least two minutes for the backuppower supply to be depleted beforebeginning work.

Enabling the systemTo enable the airbag system, perform

the following steps:a) Make sure the steering wheel is in the

straight-ahead position, the ignitionswitch is in the Lock position and thekey is removed.

b) Connect the negative battery cable tothe ground stud on the left shock tower.

c) Turn the ignition switch to the On posi-tion. Observe the airbag warning light, itshould glow for approximately 6 to 8seconds then go out, indicating the sys-tem is functioning properly

30 Compass/temperature Mini-TripComputer self diagnosis (ifequipped)

General description1 The Compass/temperature Mini-TripComputer (CMTC) is capable of performing aself-check on it's internal functions. Whenactivated, the CMTC will illuminate all seg-ments of the vacuum florescent (VF) displayand indicate it's status. Upon completion ofthe internal check, the CMTC will display oneof the following: PASS, FAIL or CCD. Due tothe complexity of diagnosing and replacingthe CMTC or related components, this check

should be used for indication purposes only.If anything but PASS is displayed after thetest is performed, have the vehicle diag-nosed/repaired at a dealer service depart-ment or other qualified repair shop.

Starting the self-diagnosis2 With the ignition switch in the OFF posi-tion, simultaneously depress the US/M andSTEP buttons.3 While holding the buttons down, turnthe ignition switch to the ON position. TheCMTC will begin diagnosis and display one ofthe following:

a) PASS: All functions operational - systemOK

b) FAIL: The CMTC module is faulty andshould be replaced

c) CCD: A CCD bus connection or theBody Control Module is faulty

31 Wiring diagrams

1 Since it isn't possible to include allwiring diagrams for every year covered bythis manual, the following diagrams are thosethat are typical and most commonly needed.2 Prior to troubleshooting any circuits,check the fuse and circuit breakers (ifequipped) to make sure they're in good con-dition. Make sure the battery is properlycharged and check the cable connections(see Chapter 1).3 When checking a circuit, make sure thatall connectors are clean, with no broken orloose terminals. When unplugging a connec-tor, do not pull on the wires. Pull only on theconnector housings themselves.

12

12-20 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

Engine control system - 1995 and 1996 four-cylinder models (1 of 4)

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 12-21

Engine control system - 1995 and 1996 four-cylinder models (2 of 4)

12

12-22 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

Engine control system - 1995 and 1996 four-cylinder models (3 of 4)

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 12-23

Engine control system - 1995 and 1996 four-cylinder models (4 of 4)

12

12-24 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

Engine control system - 1997 and later four-cylinder models (1 of 3)

Chapter12 Chassis electrical system12-25

Engine control system - 1997 and later four-cylinder models (2 of 3)

12

12-26 Chanter 12 Chassis electrical system

Engine control system - 1997 and later four-cylinder models (3 of 3)

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 12-27

Engine control system - 1995 and 1996 V6 models (1 of 4)

12

12-28 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

Engine control system - 1995 and 1996 V6 models (2 of 4)

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 12-29

Engine control system - 1995 and 1996 V6 models (3 of 4)

12

12-30 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

Engine control system - 1995 and 1996 V6 models (4 of 4)

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 12-31

Engine control system - 1997 and later V6 models (1 of 3)

12

12-32 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

Engine control system - 1997 and later V6 models (2 of 3)

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 12-33

Engine control system - 1997 and later V6 models (3 of 3)

12

12-34 Chanter 12 Chassis electrical system

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

Gauges and warning lights system (1 of 2)

12-35

12

12-36 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

Gauges and warning lights system (2 of 2)

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 12-37

Heating, air conditioning and engine cooling fan systems

12

12-38 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

Exterior lighting system (except headlights and foglights)

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 12-39

Headlight and foglight systems

12

12-40 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

Interior lighting system

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 12-41

Power window system

Power door lock system Windshield wiper and washer system

Cruise control system Typical audio system

12-44 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

Notes

I ND-1

IndexAAccelerator cable, replacement, 4-10Air cleaner assembly, removal and installation, 4-9Air conditioning

clutch relay, 6-6compressor, removal and installation, 3-9condenser, removal and installation, 3-10evaporator and expansion valve, removal

and installation, 3-10receiver-drier, removal and installation, 3-10

Air conditioning and heating system, checkand maintenance, 3-8

Air filter, replacement, 1-20Airbag

module, driver-side, removal and installation, 10-16module, passenger-side, removal

and installation, 11-17system, general information, 12-18

Alternator, removal and installation, 5-8Antenna, removal and installation, 12-11Antifreeze, general information, 3-2Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), general information, 9-2Automatic transaxle, 7B-1 through 7B-8

diagnosis, general, 7B-2fluid

and filter change, 1-21leak diagnosis, 7B-2level check, 1-9

gearshift assembly, replacement, 7B-4oil seal, replacement, 7B-2park/neutral/back-up light switch, check

and replacement, 7B-5removal and installation, 7B-6shift cable, check, removal, installation

and adjustment, 7B-3shifter/ignition interlock system, description, check

and cable replacement, 7B-5Transmission Control Module (TOM), removal

and installation, 7B-6Automotive chemicals and lubricants, 0-16

BBack-up light switch (manual transaxle), check

and replacement, 7A-2Balance shafts (2.4L four-cylinder engine only),

removal, inspection and installation, 2C-15Balljoint

front, check, 10-9upper, rear, removal and installation, 10-14

Batterycables, check and replacement, 5-2check, maintenance and charging, 1-12removal and installation, 5-3

Blower motor and circuit, check and replacement, 3-6Body, 11-1 through 11-22

general information, 11-1maintenance, 11-1repair

major damage, 11-3minor damage, 11-2

Body Code Plate, 0-7Booster battery (jump) starting, 0-14Brake, parking

cables, replacement, 9-14lever assembly, removal, installation

and adjustment, 9-14Brakes, 9-1 through 9-16

Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), general information, 9-2disc brake

caliper, removal and installation, 9-5pads, replacement, 9-3

disc, inspection, removal and installation, 9-5drum, shoes, replacement, 9-6general information, 9-2hoses and lines, inspection and replacement, 9-12light switch, check, replacement and adjustment, 9-16power booster, check, removal and installation, 9-13proportioning valve, check and replacement, 9-11switch, 6-6system

bleeding, 9-12check, 1-16

wheel cylinder, removal and installation, 9-9Bulb replacement, 12-8Bumpers, removal and installation, 11-7Buying parts, 0-8

CCamshaft

oil seal, replacementfour-cylinder engines, 2A-12V6 engine, 2B-9

position sensor, 6-7removal, inspection and installation

four-cylinder engines, 2A-15V6 engine, 2B-11

Catalytic converter system, description, checkand replacement, 6-17

Center console, removal and installation, 11-17 IND

IND-2 Index

Charging systemcheck, 5-7general information and precautions, 5-6

Chassis electrical system, 12-1 through 12-19Chassis lubrication, 1-20Circuit breakers, general information, 12-3Clutch

cable, removal and installation, 8-2release bearing and lever, removal, inspection

and installation, 8-3start switch, check and replacement, 8-4description and check, 8-1

Clutch and driveaxles, 8-1 through 8-10Compass/temperature Mini-Trip Computer

self diagnosis, 12-19Compression check, 2C-6Control arm, rear upper, removal and installation, 10-13Conversion factors, 0-17Coolant temperature sending unit, check

and replacement, 3-6Cooling system

check, 1-13servicing (draining, flushing and refilling), 1-22

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems, 3-1through 3-12

Cowl cover, removal and installation, 11-20Crankshaft

inspection, 2C-21installation and main bearing oil clearance check, 2C-24oil seal, replacement

four-cylinder engines, 2A-11V6 engine, 2B-9

position sensor, 6-7removal, 2C-17

Cruise control system, description and check, 12-15Cylinder head

cleaning and inspection, 2C-11disassembly, 2C-10reassembly, 2C-13removal and installation

four-cylinder engines, 2A-18V6 engine, 2B-13

Cylinder honing, 2C-19

DDashboard trim panels, glove box door handle and

lock cylinder, removal and installation, 11-13Disc brake

caliper, removal and installation, 9-5pads, replacement, 9-3

Distributor (V6 engine only), removaland installation, 5-6

Doorlatch, outside handle and lock cylinder, removal,

installation and adjustment, 11-9removal and installation, 11-11

trim panel, removal and installation, 1.1-8window glass, removal and installation, 11-10window regulator, removal and installation, 11-11

Driveaxleboot

check, 1-16replacement, 8-6

oil seal replacement, 7A-2removal and installation, 8-5general information and inspection, 8-4

Drivebelt, check, adjustment and replacement, 1-18Drum brake shoes, replacement, 9-6

EElectric rear view mirrors, description and check, 12-16Electrical troubleshooting, 12-1Emissions and engine control systems,

6-1 through 6-18Emissions control and engine systems

catalytic converter system, description, checkand replacement, 6-17

general information, 6-2information sensors and output actuators, description,

check and replacement, 6-6On Board Diagnosis (OBD-II) system, description

and trouble code access, 6-2Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system,

general description, 6-13Powertrain Control Module (PCM), check

and replacement, 6-13trouble codes, 1995 through 1997 models, 6-4

Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor, 6-8Engine electrical systems, 5-1 through 5-10

alternator, removal and installation, 5-8battery

cables, check and replacement, 5-2removal and installation, 5-3

charging system, check, 5-7charging system, general information

and precautions, 5-6distributor (V6 engine only), removal and installation, 5-6general information, precautions and battery

disconnection, 5-2ignition coil, check and replacement, 5-5ignition system, check, 5-4Ignition system, general information, 5-4starter motor, in-vehicle check, 5-9starter motor, removal and installation, 5-10starting system, general information

and precautions, 5-9Engine

balance shafts (2.4L four-cylinder engine only),removal, inspection and installation, 2C-15

blockcleaning, 2C-17inspection, 2C-18

Index I ND-3

camshaft oil seal, replacementfour-cylinder engines, 2A-12V6 engine, 2B-9

camshaft(s), removal, inspection and installationfour-cylinder engines, 2A-15V6 engine, 2B-11

compression check, 2C-6cooling fans and circuit, check and replacement, 3-3crankshaft front oil seal, replacement

four-cylinder engines, 2A-11V6 engine, 2B-9

crankshaftinstallation and main bearing oil

clearance check, 2C-24inspection, 2C-21

cylinder headcleaning and inspection, 2C-11disassembly, 2C-10reassembly, 2C-13removal and installation

four-cylinder engines, 2A-18V6 engine, 2B-13

cylinder honing, 2C-19engine mounts, check and replacement

four-cylinder engines, 2A-25V6 engine, 2B-19

exhaust manifold, removal and installationfour-cylinder engines, 2A-6V6 engine, 2B-5

flywheel/driveplate, removal and installationfour-cylinder engines, 2A-23V6 engine, 2B-18

general overhaul procedures, 2C-1 through 2C-28identification numbers, 0-7initial start-up and break-in after overhaul, 2C-28intake manifold, removal, inspection and installation

four-cylinder engines, 2A-5V6 engine, 2B-3

main and connecting rod bearings, inspection, 2C-22oil

and filter change, 1-10pan, removal and installation

four-cylinder engines, 2A-19V6 engine, 2B-15

pump, removal, inspection and installationfour-cylinder engines, 2A-21V6 engine, 2B-16

overhauldisassembly sequence, 2C-9general information, 2C-4reassembly sequence, 2C-22

piston rings, installation, 2C-23pistons and connecting rods

inspection, 2C-20installation and rod bearing oil clearance

check, 2C-26removal, 2C-14

rear main oil seal, replacementfour-cylinder engines, 2A-24V6 engine, 2B-18

rebuilding alternatives, 2C-8removal, methods and precautions, 2C-7removal and installation, 2C-7repair operations possible with the engine

in the vehiclefour-cylinder engines, 2A-4V6 engine, 2B-2

rocker arm and hydraulic valve lash adjuster, removal,inspection and installationfour-cylinder engines, 2A-13V6 engine, 2B-10

timing belt, removal, inspection and installationfour-cylinder engines, 2A-7V6 engine, 2B-6

Top Dead Center (TDC) for number onepiston, locating, 2C-5

vacuum gauge diagnostic checks, 2C-6valve cover, removal and installation

four-cylinder engines, 2A-4V6 engine, 2B-2

valve springs, retainers and seals, replacementfour-cylinder engines, 2A-17V6 engine, 2B-12

valves, servicing, 2C-13Evaporative emissions control (EVAP) system,

description, check and componentreplacement, 6-15

Evaporative emissions control system, check, 1-23Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system, description,

check and component replacement, 6-13Exhaust manifold, removal, inspection and installation

four-cylinder engines, 2A-6V6 engine, 2B-5

Exhaust systemservicing, general information, 4-17check, 1-15

FFluid level checks, 1-6

brake fluid, 1-8engine coolant, 1-7engine oil, 1-6windshield washer fluid, 1-8

Flywheel/driveplate, removal and installationfour-cylinder engines, 2A-23V6 engine, 2B-18

Four-cylinder engines, 2A-1 through 2A-26Fuel

filterremoval and installation, 4-14replacement, 1-26

level sending unit, check and replacement, 4-7 IND

I ND-4 Index

pressure regulator and fuel inlet strainer,replacement, 4-13

pressure relief procedure, 4-2pump module, removal and installation, 4-7pump/fuel pressure regulator, check, 4-2rail and injectors, check, removal and installation, 4-14system hoses and connections, check, 1-17tank

cleaning and repair, general information, 4-7removal and installation, 4-6

Fuel and exhaust systems, 4-1 through 4-18Fuel injection system

general check, 4-12system, general information, 4-10

Fuses, general information, 12-2Fusible links, general information, 12-3

GGearshift assembly, replacement, 7B-4General engine overhaul procedures, 2C-1

HHeadlight

and fog light, adjustment, 12-7assembly, removal and installation, 12-6switch, check and replacement, 12-6

Heater core, replacement, 3-7Heater/air conditioner control assembly, removal,

check and installation, 3-7Hinges and locks, maintenance, 11-3Hood

latch and cable, removal and installation, 11-6removal, installation and adjustment, 11-3

Horn, check, removal and installation, 12-13Hub and bearing assembly

front, removal and installation, 10-9rear, removal and installation, 10-14

Idle Air Control (IAC) motor, 6-9Idle Air Control (IAC) motor, check

and replacement, 4-17Ignition coil, check and replacement, 5-5Ignition switch and lock cylinder, removal

and installation, 12-6Ignition system, check, 5-4Information sensors

air conditioning clutch relay, 6-6brake switch, 6-6camshaft position sensor, 6-7

crankshaft position sensor, 6-7Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor, 6-8Idle Air Control (IAC) motor, 6-9knock sensor, four-cylinder engines, 6-10oxygen sensor, 6-11power steering pressure switch, 6-12Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), 6-12Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), manual

transaxles only, 6-12Initial start-up and break-in after overhaul, 2C-28Instrument cluster hood, removal and installation, 11-15Instrument cluster

removal and installation, 12-13self-diagnosis, 12-12

Instrument panelremoval and installation, 11-15top cover, removal and installation, 11-13

Intake manifold, removal, inspection and installationfour-cylinder engines, 2A-5V6 engine, 2B-3

Introduction to the Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratusand Plymouth Breeze, 0-5

JJacking and towing, 0-15

KKnock sensor, four-cylinder engines, 6-10Knuckle/spindle (rear), removal and installation, 10-15

LLateral links (rear), removal and installation, 10-12Lower control arm, removal and installation, 10-8

MMain and connecting rod bearings, inspection, 2C-22Maintenance schedule, 1-5Maintenance techniques, tools and

working facilities, 0-8Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, 6-10Manual transaxle, 7A-1 through 7A-6

back-up light switch, check and replacement, 7A-2driveaxle oil seal replacement, 7A-2lubricant change, 1-21lubricant level check, 1-16overhaul, general information, 7A-6removal and installation, 7A-4

Index I ND-5

shift cables, removal, installation and adjustment, 7A-1shift lever assembly, removal and installation, 7A-2

Master cylinder, removal, installation and vacuumseal replacement, 9-10

Mirrors, removal and installation, 11-19Modular clutch assembly, removal, inspection

and installation, 8-3Multi-function switch, check and replacement, 12-4

OOil

pan, removal and installationfour-cylinder engines, 2A-19V6 engine, 2B-15

pump, removal, inspection and installationfour-cylinder engines, 2A-21V6 engine, 2B-16

seal, replacement, 7B-2On Board Diagnosis (OBD-II) system, description

and trouble code access, 6-2Oxygen sensor, 6-11

PPark/neutral/back-up light switch, check

and replacement, 7B-5Parking brake

cables, replacement, 9-14lever assembly, removal, installation

and adjustment, 9-14Passenger airbag module, removal

and installation, 11-17Piston rings, installation, 2C-23Pistons and connecting rods

inspection, 2C-20installation and rod bearing oil clearance check, 2C-26removal, 2C-14

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system,general description, 6-13

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve, checkand replacement, 1-25

Power brake booster, check, removaland installation, 9-13

Power door lock system, description and check, 12-16Power steering

fluid level check, 1-10pressure switch, 6-12pump, cooler and hoses, removal and installation, 10-19system, bleeding, 10-21

Power window system, description, check andwindow motor replacement, 12-16

Powertrain Control Module (PCM), checkand replacement, 6-13

Proportioning valve, check and replacement, 9-11

QQuick-connect fittings and fuel lines, disassembly,

assembly and replacement, 4-4

RRadiator and coolant reservoir, removal

and installation, 3-4Radiator grille (Cirrus models), removal

and installation, 11-6Radio, amplifier and speakers, removal

and installation, 12-10Rear main oil seal, replacement

four-cylinder engines, 2A-24V6 engine, 2B-18

Recommended lubricants and fluids, 1-1Relays, general information, 12-3Repair operations possible with the engine

in the vehiclefour-cylinder engines, 2A-4V6 engine, 2B-2

Rocker arm and hydraulic valve lash adjuster,removal, inspection and installationfour-cylinder engines, 2A-13V6 engine, 2B-10

SSafety first, 0-18Seat belt check, 11-22Seats

power, description and check, 12-17removal and installation, 11-20

Shift cable, check, removal, installationand adjustmentmanual transaxle, 7A-3automatic transaxle, 7B-3

Shift lever assembly, removal and installation, 7A-2Shifter/ignition interlock system, description, check

and cable replacement, 7B-5Shock absorber/coil spring assembly

front, removal, inspection and installation, 10-5rear, removal, inspection, component replacement

and installation, 10-10replacement, 10-7

Spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, checkand replacement, 1-25

Spark plugs, check and replacement, 1-23Stabilizer bar and bushings

front, removal, inspection and installation, 10-5rear, removal and installation, 10-10

Starter motorin-vehicle check, 5-9removal and installation, 5-10

Starting system, general informationand precautions, 5-9 IND

I ND-6 Index

Steering and suspension, check, 1-15Steering column covers, removal and installation, 11-17Steering system

gear and pressure switch, removaland installation, 10-17

general information, 10-15knuckle, removal and installation, 10-10power steering pump, cooler and hoses, removal

and installation, 10-19power steering system, bleeding, 10-21steering wheel, removal and installation, 10-16tie-rod ends, removal and installation, 10-17wheel

alignment, general information, 10-21and tires, general information, 10-21removal and installation, 10-16

Suspension and steering systems, 10-1 through 10-22Suspension system

balljoints (front), check, 10-9crossmember, removal and reinstallation, 10-13knuckle/spindle (rear), removal and installation, 10-15lateral links (rear), removal and installation, 10-12lower control arm, removal and installation, 10-8shock absorber/coil spring assembly (front), removal,

inspection and installation, 10-5shock absorber/coil spring, replacement, 10-7shock absorber/coil spring (rear), removal, inspection,

component replacement and installation, 10-10stabilizer bar and bushings (front), removal, inspection

and installation, 10-5stabilizer bar and bushings (rear), removal

and installation, 10-10trailing link (rear), removal and installation, 10-12upper balljoint (rear), removal and installation, 10-14upper control arm (front), removal, inspection

and installation, 10-8upper control arm (rear), removal and installation, 10-13

TThermostat, check and replacement, 3-2Throttle body, check, removal and installation, 4-12Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), 6-12Tie-rod ends, removal and installation, 10-17Timing belt, removal, inspection and installation

four-cylinder engines, 2A-7V6 engine, 2B-6

Tire and tire pressure checks, 1-8Tire rotation, 1-14Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston,

locating, 2C-5Towing, the vehicle, 0-15Trailing link (rear), removal and installation, 10-12Transaxle identification numbers, 0-7Transmission Control Module (TCM), removal and

installation, 7B-6Trouble codes, 1995 through 1997 models, 6-4

Troubleshooting, 0-19Trunk latch and lock cylinder, removal

and installation, 11-13Trunk lid, support strut, latch striker and release

cable, removal, installation and adjustment, 11-11Tune-up and routine maintenance, 1-1 through 1-26Tune-up general information, 1-6

UUnderhood hose, check and replacement, 1-13Upholstery and carpets, maintenance, 11-2Upper balljoint (rear), removal and installation, 10-14Upper control arm

front, removal, inspection and installation, 10-8rear, removal and installation, 10-13

VVacuum gauge diagnostic checks, 2C-6Valve cover, removal and installation

four-cylinder engines, 2A-4V6 engine, 2B-2

Valve springs, retainers and seals, replacementfour-cylinder engines, 2A-17V6 engine, 2B-12

Valves, servicing, 2C-13Vehicle Emissions Control Information (VECI) label, 0-7Vehicle identification numbers, 0-6

Body Code Plate, 0-7engine identification numbers, 0-7transaxle identification numbers, 0-7Vehicle Safety Certification label, 0-7

Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), manualtransaxles only, 6-12

Vinyl trim, maintenance, 11-2

WWater pump

check, 3-5replacement, 3-5

Wheel alignment, general information, 10-21Wheel cylinder, removal and installation, 9-9Wheels and tires, general information, 10-21Window defogger

rear heat grid, check and repair, 12-15switch, rear, check and replacement, 12-14

Windshieldand fixed glass, replacement, 11-3washer fluid pump, removal and installation, 12-5wiper motor, check and replacement, 12-5

Windshield wiper/washer switch, check andreplacement, 12-4

Wiring diagrams, 12-19

Haynes Automotive ManualsNOTE: New manuals are added to this list on a periodic basis. If you do not see a listing for your vehicle,

consult your local Haynes dealer for the latest product information.

ACURA*12020 Integra '86 thru '89 & Legend '86 thru '90

AMCJeep CJ - see JEEP (50020)

14020 Mid-size models, Concord,Hornet, Gremlin & Spirit '70 thru '83

14025 (Renault) Alliance & Encore '83 thru '87

AUDI15020 4000 all models '80 thru '8715025 5000 all models '77 thru ' 8315026 5000 all models '84 thru '88

AUSTIN-HEALEYSprite - see MG Midget (66015)

BMW*18020 3/5 Series not including diesel or

all-wheel drive models '82 thru '92* 18021 3 Series except 325iX models '92 thru '9718025 320i all 4 cyl models '75 thru '8318035 528i & 530i all models '75 thru '8018050 1500 thru 2002 except Turbo '59 thru '77

BUICKCentury (front wheel drive) - see GM (829)

*19020 Buick, Oldsmobile & Pontiac Full-size(Front wheel drive) all models '85 thru '98Buick Electra, LeSabre and Park Avenue;Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale, Ninety Eightand Regency; Pontiac Bonneville

19025 Buick Oldsmobile & Pontiac Full-size(Rear wheel drive)Buick Estate '70 thru '90, Electra'70 thru '84,LeSabre '70 thru '85, Limited '74 thru '79Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser '70 thru '90,Delta 88 '70 thru '85,Ninety-eight '70 thru ' 84Pontiac Bonneville '70 thru '81,Catalina '70 thru '81, Grandville '70 thru '75,Parisienne '83 thru '86

19030 Mid-size Regal & Century all rear-drivemodels with V6, V8 and Turbo '74 thru '87Regal - see GENERAL MOTORS (38010)Riviera - see GENERAL MOTORS (38030)Roadmaster - see CHEVROLET (24046)Skyhawk - see GENERAL MOTORS (38015)Skylark '80 thru '85 - see GM (38020)Skylark '86 on - see GM (38025)Somerset - see GENERAL MOTORS (38025)

CADILLAC*21030 Cadillac Rear Wheel Drive

all gasoline models '70 thru '93Cimarron - see GENERAL MOTORS (38015)Eldorado - see GENERAL MOTORS (38030)Seville '80 thru '85 - see GM (38030)

CHEVROLET*24010 Astro & GMC Safari Mini-vans '85 thru '9324015 Camaro V8 all models '70 thru '8124016 Camaro all models '82 thru '92

Cavalier - see GENERAL MOTORS (38015)Celebrity - see GENERAL MOTORS (38005)

24017 Camaro & Firebird '93 thru '9724020 Chevelle, Malibu & El Camino '69 thru '8724024 Chevette & Pontiac T1000 '76 thru '87

Citation - see GENERAL MOTORS (38020)*24032 Corsica/Beretta all models '87 thru '9624040 Corvette all V8 models '68 thru '82

*24041 Corvette all models '84 thru '9610305 Chevrolet Engine Overhaul Manual24045 Full-size Sedans Caprice, Impala, Biscayne,

Bel Air & Wagons '69 thru '9024046 Impala SS & Caprice and

Buick Roadmaster '91 thru '96Lumina - see GENERAL MOTORS (38010)

24048 Lumina & Monte Carlo '95 thru '98Lumina APV - see GM (38035)

24050 Luv Pick-up all 2WD & 4WD '72 thru '82*24055 Monte Carlo all models '70 thru ' 88

Monte Carlo '95 thru '98 - see LUMINA (24048)24059 Nova all V8 models '69 thru '79

*24060 Nova and Geo Prizm '85 thru '9224064 Pick-ups '67 thru '87 - Chevrolet & GMC,

all V8 & in-line 6 cyl, 2WD & 4WD '67 thru '87;Suburbans, Blazers & Jimmys '67 thru '91* 24065 Pick-ups '88 thru '98 - Chevrolet & GMC,all full-size pick-ups, '88 thru '98; Blazer &Jimmy ' 92 thru '94; Suburban '92 thru ' 98;Tahoe & Yukon '98

24070 S-10 & S-15 Pick-ups ' 82 thru '93,Blazer & Jimmy '83 thru '94,

*24071 S-10 & S-15 Pick-ups '94 thru '96Blazer & Jimmy '95 thru '96

*24075 Sprint & Geo Metro '85 thru '94*24080 Vans - Chevrolet & GMC, V8 & in-line

6 cylinder models '68 thru '96

CHRYSLER25015 Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus,

Plymouth Breeze '95 thru '9825025 Chrysler Concorde, New Yorker & LHS,

Dodge Intrepid, Eagle Vision, '93 thru '9710310 Chrysler Engine Overhaul Manual

*25020 Full-size Front-Wheel Drive '88 thru '93K-Cars - see DODGE Aries (30008)Laser - see DODGE Daytona (30030)

* 25030 Chrysler & Plymouth Mid-sizefront wheel drive '82 thru '95Rear-wheel Drive - see Dodge (30050)

DATSUN28005 200SX all models '80 thru '8328007 B-210 all models '73 thru '7828009 210 all models '79 thru '8228012 240Z, 260Z & 2802 Coupe '70 thru '7828014 280ZX Coupe & 2+2 '79 thru '83

300ZX - see NISSAN (72010)28016 310 all models '78 thru '8228018 510 & PL521 Pick-up '68 thru '7328020 510 all models '78 thru '8128022 620 Series Pick-up all models '73 thru '79

720 Series Pick-up - see NISSAN (72030)28025 810/Maxima all gasoline models, '77 thru '84

DODGE400 & 600 - see CHRYSLER (25030)

*30008 Aries & Plymouth Reliant '81 thru '8930010 Caravan & Plymouth Voyager Mini-Vans

all models '84 thru '95*30011 Caravan & Plymouth Voyager Mini-Vans

all models '96 thru '9830012 Challenger/Plymouth Saporro '78 thru '8330016 Colt & Plymouth Champ (front wheel drive)

all models '78 thru '87*30020 Dakota Pick-ups all models '87 thru ' 9630025 Dart, Demon, Plymouth Barracuda,

Duster & Valiant 6 cyl models '67 thru '76*30030 Daytona & Chrysler Laser '84 thru '89

Intrepid - see CHRYSLER (25025)*30034 Neon all models '95 thru '97* 30035 Omni & Plymouth Horizon '78 thru '90*30040 Pick-ups all full-size models '74 thru '93* 30041 Pick-ups all full-size models '94 thru '96*30045 Ram 50/D50 Pick-ups & Raider and

Plymouth Arrow Pick-ups '79 thru '9330050 Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler rear wheel

drive '71 thru '89*30055 Shadow & Plymouth Sundance '87 thru '94*30060 Spirit & Plymouth Acclaim '89 thru '95*30065 Vans - Dodge & Plymouth '71 thru '96EAGLE

Talon - see Mitsubishi Eclipse (68030)Vision - see CHRYSLER (25025)

FIAT34010 124 Sport Coupe & Spider '68 thru '7834025 X1/9 all models '74 thru '80

FORD10355 Ford Automatic Transmission Overhaul* 36004 Aerostar Mini-vans all models '86 thru '96

*36006 Contour & Mercury Mystique '95 thru '9836008 Courier Pick-up all models ' 72 thru '8236012 Crown Victoria & Mercury Grand

Marquis '88 thru '9610320 Ford Engine Overhaul Manual36016 Escort/Mercury Lynx all models '81 thru '90

*36020 Escort/Mercury Tracer '91 thru ' 96*36024 Explorer & Mazda Navajo ' 91 thru ' 9536028 Fairmont & Mercury Zephyr '78 thru '8336030 Festiva & Aspire '88 thru '9736032 Fiesta all models '77 thru '8036036 Ford & Mercury Full-size,

Ford LTD & Mercury Marquis ('75 thru '82);Ford Custom 500,Country Squire, CrownVictoria & Mercury Colony Park ('75 thru '87);Ford LTD Crown Victoria &Mercury Gran Marquis ( '83 thru '87)

36040 Granada & Mercury Monarch '75 thru ' 8036044 Ford & Mercury Mid-size,

Ford Thunderbird & MercuryCougar ('75 thru '82);Ford LTD & Mercury Marquis ( '83 thru '86);Ford Torino,Gran Torino, Elite, Rancheropick-up, LTD II, Mercury Montego, Comet,XR-7 & Lincoln Versailles ('75 thru ' 86)

36048 Mustang V8 all models '64-1/2 thru '7336049 Mustang II 4 cyl, V6 & V8 models ' 74 thru '7836050 Mustang & Mercury Capri all models

Mustang, '79 thru '93; Capri, '79 thru '86*36051 Mustang all models '94 thru ' 9736054 Pick-ups & Bronco '73 thru '7936058 Pick-ups & Bronco ' 80 thru ' 9636059 Pick-ups, Expedition &

Mercury Navigator '97 thru '9836062 Pinto & Mercury Bobcat '75 thru '8036066 Probe all models '89 thru '9236070 Ranger/Bronco II gasoline models '83 thru '92

*36071 Ranger '93 thru '97 &Mazda Pick-ups '94 thru '97

36074 Taurus & Mercury Sable '86 thru ' 95*36075 Taurus & Mercury Sable '96 thru '98*36078 Tempo & Mercury Topaz '84 thru '9436082 Thunderbird/Mercury Cougar '83 thru '88

*36086 Thunderbird/Mercury Cougar ' 89 and '9736090 Vans all V8 Econoline models '69 thru '91*36094 Vans full size '92-'95*36097 Windstar Mini-van ' 95-'98

GENERAL MOTORS*10360 GM Automatic Transmission Overhaul* 38005 Buick Century, Chevrolet Celebrity,

Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera & Pontiac 6000all models '82 thru ' 96

*38010 Buick Regal, Chevrolet Lumina,Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme &Pontiac Grand Prix front-wheel drivemodels '88 thru '95

*38015 Buick Skyhawk, Cadillac Cimarron,Chevrolet Cavalier, Oldsmobile Firenza &Pontiac J-2000 & Sunbird '82 thru ' 94

*38016 Chevrolet Cavalier &Pontiac Sunfire '95 thru '98

38020 Buick Skylark, Chevrolet Citation,Olds Omega, Pontiac Phoenix ' 80 thru '85

38025 Buick Skylark & Somerset,Oldsmobile Achieva & Calais andPontiac Grand Am all models ' 85 thru '95

38030 Cadillac Eldorado '71 thru '85,Seville '80 thru '85,Oldsmobile Toronado '71 thru '85& Buick Riviera '79 thru '85

*38035 Chevrolet Lumina APV, Olds Silhouette& Pontiac Trans Sport all models '90 thru '95General Motors Full-size

Rear-wheel Drive - see BUICK (19025)

(Continued on other side)

*Listings shown with an asterisk (`) indicate model coverage as of this printing. These titles will be periodically updated to include later model years - consult yourHaynes dealer for more information.

Haynes North America, Inc., 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, CA 91320-1514 • (805) 498-6703

Haynes Automotive Manuals (continued)

GEO MITSUBISHI TRIUMPHMetro - see CHEVROLET Sprint (24075) *68020 Cordia, Tredia, Galant, Precis & 94007 Spitfire all models '62 thru '81Prizm - '85 thru '92 see CHEVY (24060), Mirage '83 thru '93 94010 TR7 all models '75 thru '81'93 thru '96 see TOYOTA Corolla (92036) *68030 Eclipse, Eagle Talon & Ply. Laser '90 thru '94

Vw*40030 Storm all models '90 thru '93 *68040 Pick-up '83 thru '96 & Montero '83 thru '93Tracker - see SUZUKI Samurai (90010) 96008 Beetle & Karmann Ghia '54 thru '79

NISSAN 96012*96016

Dasher all gasoline models '74 thru '81Rabbit, Jetta, Scirocco, & Pick-up gas

72010 300ZX all models including Turbo '84 thru '89GMC models '74 thru '91 & Convertible '80 thru '92Safari - see CHEVROLET ASTRO (24010) *72015 Altima all models '93 thru '97 96017 Golf & Jetta all models '93 thru '97Vans & Pick-ups - see CHEVROLET *72020 Maxima all models '85 thru '91 96020 Rabbit, Jetta & Pick-up diesel '77 thru '84

*72030 Pick-ups '80 thru '96 Pathfinder '87 thru '95 96030 Transporter 1600 all models '68 thru '79HONDA 72040 Pulsar all models '83 thru '86 96035 Transporter 1700, 1800 & 2000 '72 thru '7942010 Accord CVCC all models '76 thru '83 *72050 Sentra all models '82 thru '94 96040 Type 3 1500 & 1600 all models '63 thru '7342011 Accord all models '84 thru '89 *72051 Sentra & 200SX all models '95 thru '98 96045 Vanagon all air-cooled models '80 thru ' 8342012 Accord all models '90 thru '93 *72060 Stanza all models '82 thru '9042013 Accord all models '94 thru '95 VOLVO42020 Civic 1200 all models '73 thru '7942021 Civic 1300 & 1500 CVCC '80 thru '83

OLDSMOBILE 9701097015

120, 130 Series & 1800 Sports '61 thru '73140 Series all models '66 thru '74*73015 Cutlass V6 & V8 gas models '74 thru '8842022 Civic 1500 CVCC all models '75 thru '79 *97020 240 Series all models '76 thru ' 93

42023 Civic all models '84 thru '91*42024 Civic & del Sol '92 thru '95

For other OLDSMOBILE titles, see BUICK,CHEVROLET or GENERAL MOTORS listing. 97025 260 Series all models '75 thru '82

*42040 Prelude CVCC all models '79 thru '89*97040 '82 '88740 & 760 Series all models thru

NOTE: New manuals are added to this list on a periodic basis. If you do not see a listing for your vehicle,consult your local Haynes dealer for the latest product information.

HYUNDAI*43015 Excel all models '86 thru ' 94

PLYMOUTHFor PLYMOUTH titles, see DODGE listing.

TECHBOOK MANUALSPONTIAC 10205 Automotive Computer Codes

ISUZU 10210 Automotive Emissions Control Manual79008 Fiero all models '84 thru '88Hombre - see CHEVROLET S-10 (24071) 10215 Fuel Injection Manual, 1978 thru 1985

79018 Firebird V8 models except Turbo '70 thru '81*47017 Rodeo '91 thru ' 97; Amigo '89 thru '94; 79019 Firebird all models '82 thru '92

10220 Fuel Injection Manual, 1986 thru 1996Honda Passport '95 thru '97 10225 Holley Carburetor Manual

*47020 Trooper & Pick-up, all gasoline models For other PONTIAC titles, see BUICK, 10230 Rochester Carburetor ManualPick-up, '81 thru '93; Trooper, '84 thru '91 CHEVROLET or GENERAL MOTORS listing. 10240 Weber/Zenith/Stromberg/SU Carburetors

10305 Chevrolet Engine Overhaul ManualJAGUAR PORSCHE 10310 Chrysler Engine Overhaul Manual

*80020 911 except Turbo & Carrera 4 '65 thru '89*49010 XJ6 all 6 cyl models '68 thru '86 10320 Ford Engine Overhaul Manual*49011 XJ6 all models '88 thru '94 80025 914 all 4 cyl models '69 thru '76 10330 GM and Ford Diesel Engine Repair Manual*49015 XJ12 & XJS all 12 cyl models '72 thru '85 80030 924 all models including Turbo '76 thru '82 10340 Small Engine Repair Manual

*80035 944 all models including Turbo '83 thru '89 10345 Suspension, Steering & Driveline ManualJEEP 10355 Ford Automatic Transmission Overhaul

RENAULT*50010 Cherokee, Comanche &Wagoneer Limited 10360 GM Automatic Transmission Overhaulall models '84 thru ' 96 10405 Automotive Body Repair & Painting

Alliance & Encore - seeAMC (14020)50020 CJ all models '49 thru '86 10410 Automotive Brake Manual

*50025 Grand Cherokee all models '93 thru '98 10415 Automotive Detaiing Manual50029 Grand Wagoneer & Pick-up '72 thru '91 SAAB 10420 Automotive Eelectrical Manual

Grand Wagoneer '84 thru '91, Cherokee & *84010 900 all models including Turbo '79 thru '88 10425 Automotive Heating & Air ConditioningWagoneer '72 thru '83, Pick-up '72 thru '88 10430 Automotive Reference Manual & Dictionary

*50030 Wrangler all models '87 thru '95 10435 Automotive Tools ManualSATURN 10440 Used Car Buying GuideLINCOLN 87010 Saturn all models '91 thru '96 10445 Welding Manual

- see FORD Pick-up (36059)Drive all models '70 thru '96

10450 ATV BasicsNavigator59010 Rear Wheel SUBARU

89002 1100, 1300, 1400 & 1600 '71 thru '79*89003 1600 & 1800 2WD & 4WD '80 thru '94 SPANISH MANUALS

98903 Reparacidn de Carroceria & Pintura

SUZUKI 98905 Cbdigos Automotrices de la Computadora9891098915

Frenos AutomotrizInyeccibn de Combustible 1986 al 1994*90010 Samurai/Sidekick & Geo Tracker '86 thru '96

99040 Chevrolet & GMC Camionetas '67 al '87TOYOTA Incluye Suburban, Blazer & Jimmy '67 al '91

92005 Camry all models '83 thru '91 99041 Chevrolet & GMC Camionetas '88 al '95

92006 Camry all models '92 thru '96 Incluye Suburban '92 al '95, Blazer &

92015 Celica Rear Wheel Drive '71 thru '85 Jimmy '92 al '94, Tahoe y Yukon '95

*92020 Celica Front Wheel Drive '86 thru '93 99042 Chevrolet & GMC Camionetas Cerradas

92025 Celica Supra all models '79 thru '92'68 al '95

92030 Corolla all models '75 thru '7999055 Dodge Caravan & Plymouth Voyager '84 al '95

92032 Corolla all rear wheel drive models '80 thru '8799075 Ford Camionetas y Bronco '80 al '94

92035 Corolla all front wheel drive models '84 thru '9299077 Ford Camionetas Cerradas '69 al '91

*92036 Corolla & Geo Prizm '93 thru '979908399088

Ford Modelos de Tamano Grande '75 al '87Ford Modelos de Tamano Mediano '75 al '86

92040 Corolla Tercel all models '80 thru '82 99091 Ford Taurus & Mercury Sable '86 al '9592045 Corona all models '74 thru '82 99095 GM Modelos de Tamano Grande '70 al '9092050 Cressida all models '78 thru '82 99100 GM Modelos de Tamano Mediano '70 al '8892055 Land Cruiser FJ40, 43, 45, 55 '68 thru '82 99110 Nissan Camionetas '80 al '96,92056 Land Cruiser FJ60, 62, 80, FZJ80'80 thru '96 Pathfinder '87 al '95

*92065 MR2 all models '85 thru '87 99118 Nissan Sentra '82 al '9492070 Pick-up all models '69 thru '78 99125 Toyota Camionetas y 4Runner '79 al '95

*92075 Pick-up all models '79 thru '95*92076 Tacoma '95 thru '98, 4Runner '96 thru '98,

& T100 '93 thru '98

Haynes North America, Inc., 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, CA 91320-1514 • (805) 498-6703

MAZDA61010 GLC Hatchback (rear wheel drive) '77 thru '8361011 GLC (front wheel drive) '81 thru '85

*61015 323 & Protoge '90 thru '97*61016 MX-5 Miata '90 thru '97*61020 MPV all models '89 thru '94

Navajo - see Ford Explorer (36024)61030 Pick-ups '72 thru '93

Pick-ups '94 thru '96 - see Ford Ranger (36071)61035 RX-7 all models '79 thru '85

*61036 RX-7 all models '86 thru '9161040 626 (rear wheel drive) all models '79 thru '82

"61041 626/MX-6 (front wheel drive) '83 thru '91

MERCEDES-BENZ63012 123 Series Diesel '76 thru '85

*63015 190 Series four-cyl gas models, '84 thru '8863020 230/250/280 6 cyl sohc models '68 thru '7263025 280 123 Series gasoline models '77 thru '8163030 350 & 450 all models '71 thru '80

MERCURYSee FORD Listing.

MG66010 MGB Roadster & GT Coupe '62 thru '8066015 MG Midget, Austin Healey Sprite '58 thru '80

* Listings shown with an asterisk (*) indicate model coverage as of this printing. These titles will be periodicallyupdated to include later model years - consult your Haynes dealer for more information.

*92080 Previa all models '91 thru '9592085 Tercel all models '87 thru '94

Over 100 Haynesmotorcycle manualsalso available 5-98

Common spark plug conditions