chapter 15 hitting the clubs and bars - john wiley &...
TRANSCRIPT
Chapter 15
Hitting the Clubs and BarsIn This Chapter� Listening to the music� Laughing it up at the comedy clubs� Quenching your thirst at the hottest bars� Tripping the light fantastic at dance clubs
The so-called serious cultural entertainment is covered in Chapter14, so in this chapter, I dig into the less serious, but just as enter-
taining, entertainment options in New York City. Whether it’s live jazz,rock, comedy, or cabaret; or if it’s sweating on a dance floor, sippinga martini while lounging on a plush lounge couch, or just people-watching in a neighborhood pub, New York has plenty of choices foryour evening’s entertainment.
To find out what’s happening and where, check out these print andonline sources. The Village Voice, www.villagevoice.com, is aweekly free newspaper that has a very good calendar with listings ofweekly entertainment. Rivaling the Voice in its listings is the weeklymagazine, Time Out New York, www.timeoutny.com. A good sourcefor information about bars and clubs is the annual book, Shecky’s NewYork Bar, Club, & Lounge Guide. The Web site at www.sheckys.comis more current than the book, as is Shecky’s Bar Phone at % 212-777-BARS or 212-777-2277, which offers up-to-the minute nightlife news.
It’s About the MusicFrom punky bands at holes-in-the-wall with no cover charge to theworld’s greatest musicians in the new venue Jazz at Lincoln Center,you can find something for every taste every night of the week inNew York.
All that jazzPeople come from all over the world to experience jazz in New Yorkat any of the city’s many celebrated clubs. No matter when you come,you’re guaranteed to find top talent playing at a city venue. The bestof New York’s jazz clubs include:
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� Birdland, 315 West 44th St., between Eighth and Ninth avenues(% 212-581-3080; www.birdlandjazz.com).This legendary clubis one of the city’s premier jazz spots. The big room is spacious,comfy, and classy, with an excellent sound system and top-notchtalent roster any night of the week. Expect lots of accomplishedbig bands and jazz trios, but you can’t go wrong with the regularSunday night show, starring Chico O’Farrell’s smokin’ Afro-CubanJazz Big Band. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� Blue Note, 131 W. 3rd St., at Sixth Avenue (% 212-475-8592; www.bluenote.net). This Greenwich Village institution attracts someof jazz’s biggest names. Lately the club has veered away from theharder edge in favor of the popular smooth jazz. Prices can beastronomical here. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� Jazz Standard, 116 E. 27th St., between Park Avenue South andLexington Avenue (% 212-576-2232; www.jazzstandard.net).With 150 tables, the Standard is one of New York’s largest jazzclubs. But its size does not detract from the quality of the sound.Here you can hear straightforward, mainstream jazz by new andestablished musicians. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� Lenox Lounge, 288 Malcolm X Blvd., Lenox Avenue between 124thand 125th streets (% 212-427-0253). The club’s history includespast performances by such artists as Billie Holliday and DinahWashington. Now, at this beautifully restored club, you just mayhear the next Billie or Dinah. (See the “Harlem & Upper Manhattan”map on p. 189.)
� Smoke, 2751 Broadway, between 105th and 106th streets (% 212-864-6662; www.smokejazz.com). This intimate Upper West Sideclub is a welcome throwback to the informal clubs of the past. Onweekends, covers never exceed $20, and the music is free Sundaythrough Thursday. (See the “Uptown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� The Village Vanguard, 178 Seventh Ave. South (% 212-255-4037;www.villagevanguard.net). The Vanguard, established in 1935, isa New York legend. All the greats, from Miles to Monk, have playedhere, and their spirits live on in the new, high-quality talent of fre-quent performers like Roy Hargrove and Bill Charlap. (See the“Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
It’s only rock and rollIn New York, you truly can rock and roll all night (KISS is from Queens,after all).
� Arlene Grocery, 95 Stanton St., between Ludlow and Orchardstreets (% 212-358-1633; www.arlene-grocery.com). This funkylittle Lower East Side club has become a big name in the intimaterock club scene. With covers that rarely peak beyond $7, it’s a bar-gain as well. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
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� Bowery Ballroom, 6 Delancey St., at Bowery (% 212-533-2111;www.boweryballroom.com). There’s plenty of room in this club,but it still has the feel of a more intimate venue. With great sight-lines and sound quality, the Bowery Ballroom attracts excellent alt-rock talent. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� CBGB, 315 Bowery, at Bleeker Street (% 212-982-4052; www.cbgb.com). The launching pad for New York punk and New Wave, thisgritty, grungy club is now a living shrine to the Ramones, whomade their name here. (The corner of 2nd Street and the Bowerywas officially renamed “Joey Ramone Place” in 2003.) It’s still a bigdraw, so come early if you actually want to soak up any of the per-formers’ sweat. Two more laid-back performance spaces — CB’sLounge and 313 Gallery — sit next door, where the music offeredranges from acoustic to freeform jazz. (See the “Downtown Arts &Nightlife” map.)
� Irving Plaza, 17 Irving Place, at 15th Street (% 212-777-1224; www.irvingplaza.com). Perhaps the biggest name in New York’s rockclub scene, this mid-sized music hall is a prime stop for national-name rock bands. The best seats can be found in the upstairs balcony but come early for a spot. (See the “Midtown Arts &Nightlife” map.)
� Mercury Lounge, 217 E. Houston St., at Essex Street and Avenue A(% 212-260-4700; www.mercuryloungenyc.com). Another excel-lent intimate spot for good quality, hard-edged rock and roll, andit doesn’t cost a fortune. As a result, the Merc is always packed.(See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
The best of the restWhat follows are clubs that are tough to classify; on one night they mayfeature jazz or blues, and on another night you could hear cutting-edgerock or world music.
� B.B King Blues Club & Grill, 237 W. 42nd St., between Seventh andEighth avenues (% 212-997-4144; www.bbkingblues.com). Despiteits name, B.B. King’s rarely sticks to the blues. Here you can findbig-name talent from pop, funk, soul, and rock more from the pastthan from the present. On Sunday, a gospel lunch is served. (Seethe “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� Fez Under Time Cafe, 380 Lafayette St., at Great Jones Street.(% 212-533-2680; www.feznyc.com). Although the club’s mostpopular attraction is the Mingus Big Band jazz band on Thursdaynights, the rest of the week brings an eclectic live music-and-performance art mix. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� The Knitting Factory, 74 Leonard St., between Broadway andChurch Street (% 212-219-3055; www.knittingfactory.com). AtNew York’s premier avant-garde music venue, in the four separatespaces within the Knitting Factory, you may hear performances
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ranging from experimental jazz to acoustic folk to spoken-work topoetry readings. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� Satalla, 37 W. 26th St., between Sixth Avenue and Broadway (% 212-576-1155; www.satalla.com). With performances in Flamenco,Klezmer, Celtic, Middle-Eastern Jazz, and Afro-Cuban to name justa handful, the diversity of music that can be heard on any givennight in Satalla is staggering. The room is cozy and most nightsyou can get in with no admission charge. (See the “Midtown Arts &Nightlife” map.)
� Tonic, 107 Norfolk St., between Rivington and Delancy streets(% 212-358-7501; www.tonicnyc.com). The Tonic, which featuresalternative jazz and rock, may not be for everyone, but if you likeyour music challenging and in an intimate setting, this Tonic is foryou. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
Life is a cabaretWant the quintessential New York night-on-the-town experience? Takein a cabaret. But be prepared to part with your greenbacks; covers canrange from $10 to $60 along with a two-drink or dinner check minimum.Always reserve ahead. New York’s top cabarets include:
� Cafe Carlyle, at the Carlyle Hotel, 781 Madison Ave., at 76th Street(% 212-744-1600). This is the room the great Bobby Short madefamous. Bobby Short, who has long presided over the room,announced and then rescinded his retirement, but if you want tosee him, you’d better head to the Carlyle sooner rather than later.When Short isn’t there, you still get the top performers on thecabaret scene. And at prices that range from $65 to $75 per personwith a $30 per-person minimum, top quality is what you certainlyshould get. (See the “Uptown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� Feinstein’s at the Regency, at the Regency Hotel, 540 Park Ave.,at 61st Street (% 212-339-4095; www.feinsteinsattheregency.com). If you don’t catch song impressario Michael Feinstein playinghere at the club he opened, don’t despair — high-wattage talent isalways on tap. (See the “Uptown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� The Oak Room, at the Algonquin Hotel, 59 W. 44th St., betweenFifth and Sixth avenues (% 212-840-6800). The Oak Room is oneof the city’s most elegant and sophisticated spots for cabaret andthat’s saying a lot. You can almost always be sure that top-ratedtalent is headlining here. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
New York Comedy is No JokeSomething about New York makes it a ripe breeding ground for comedi-ans. The names of those who got their start here, from Dangerfield to
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Seinfeld, are like a who’s who of comedy. And you never know, the neb-bishy guy or girl up at the mike just may be the next Richard Pryor orEllen DeGeneres. New York’s top comedy clubs include:
� Carolines on Broadway, 1626 Broadway, between 49th and50th streets (% 212-757-4100; www.carolines.com). New York’sbiggest and highest-profile comedy club attracts the hottest head-liners. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� Comedy Cellar, 117 Macdougal St., between Bleecker and W. 3rdstreets (% 212-254-3480; www.comedycellar.com). This intimate,subterranean comedy club is a throwback to the days of the raw,hard-edged stand-up comedy that spawned Lenny Bruce andRichard Pryor. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� Dangerfield’s, 1118 First Ave., between 61st and 62nd streets(% 212-593-1650; www.dangerfieldscomedyclub.com). If TonySoprano were a comedy fan, this would be his kind of place. Slick,mature, and Vegas-like, Dangerfield’s gets plenty of respect. (Seethe “Uptown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� Gotham Comedy Club, 34 W. 22nd St., between Fifth and Sixthavenues (% 212-367-9000; www.gothamcomedyclub.com). This isNew York’s trendiest comedy club of the moment. Look for themenights like “Comedy Salsa” and “A Very Jewish Christmas.” Tuesdaynights feature new talent. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
Hanging Out in New York’s Best BarsYou won’t have to search far to find a place to sit and have a cocktail inNew York. There are bars on every block, sometimes two or three to ablock. And they come in just about every variety from sleek and hip todark and gritty. Check out this small sampling of some of my favoriteNew York bars.
For the scene� Pangaea, 417 Lafayette St., between 4th Avenue and Astor Place
(% 212-353-2992). This African-safari themed restaurant/bar servesoriginal cocktails, but the drinks are secondary to the scene. Models,model wannabes, and those who can afford the very expensivedrinks served here prowl the room. (See the “Downtown Arts &Nightlife” map.)
� Nocturne, 144 Bleecker St., between La Guardia Place and ThompsonStreet (% 212-979-8434). Expect to see lots of posing at this elegantbeautiful-people hangout where a bottle of Absolut Vodka costs $250.(See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� Monkey Bar, at the Hotel Elysée, 60 E. 54th St., between Madisonand Park avenues (% 212-838-2600). This swanky space is dolled
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up like a Hollywood supper club circa the 1930s. The drinks arefaultless, and the legendary monkey murals are worth a look alone.Skip the dining room and head directly to the piano bar for the ultimate Monkey Bar experience. (See the “Midtown Arts &Nightlife” map.)
For creative cocktails� Bemelmans Bar, in the Carlyle Hotel, 35 E. 76th St., at Madison
Avenue (% 212-744-1600). The cocktails created by mixologist andself-proclaimed cocktail geek Audrey Sanders are amazing. Also,the bar is a beauty with its whimsical murals painted by children’sbook illustrator, Ludwig Bemelmans, who created the Madelinebooks. (See the “Uptown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� Double Happiness, 173 Mott St., between Grand and Broome Streets(% 212-941-1282). The only indicator to the subterranean entranceof this Chinatown hideaway is a vertical WATCH YOUR STEP sign. Oncethrough the door, you find a beautifully designed speakeasy-ishlounge. You’re going to be doubly happy if you try the green teamartini, an inspired house creation. (See the “Downtown Arts &Nightlife” map.)
� Pravda, 281 Lafayette St., between Houston and Prince streets(% 212-334-5015). You can find more than 70 vodkas here from18 countries. They also offer eight specialty martinis. (See the“Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� King Cole Bar, in the St. Regis Hotel, 2 E. 55th St., at Fifth Avenue(% 212-744-4300). The supposed birthplace of the Bloody Mary,they continue to make a very mean and tasty one here. If you aren’tinterested in a Bloody Mary, order something else. You really can’tgo wrong. Don’t forget to admire the very famous Maxfield Parishmural above the bar. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
In 2003, smoke and smoking was made illegal in all restaurants and barsin New York City (except for a few cigar bars). So if you get the urge, jointhe huddled (and shivering, in the winter) masses outside the bar, in whatsome not-so-fondly call the “Bloomberg Lounge” (after Mayor Mike, whopushed through the anti-smoking laws).
For old-world charm� White Horse Tavern, 567 Hudson St., at 11th Street (% 212-243-
9260). This circa 1880 pub is where Dylan Thomas supposedlyhad his very last drink before becoming a bar legend. (See the“Down-town Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� Pete’s Tavern, 129 E. 18th St., at Irving Place (% 212-473-7676).This place is so old it is said to have opened when Lincoln wasstill president. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
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Bars, Clubs & ComedyBoiler Room 8Comedy Cellar 9Duplex Cabaret 3Double Happiness 19Ear Inn 20Henrietta Hudson 10Nocturne 11Pangaea 5Pravda 14Rise Bar 23White Horse Tavern 2
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Bars, Clubs, and ComedyAvalon 21Barracuda 15Carolines on Broadway 3Crobar 13Gotham Comedy Club 22High Bar 23Jimmy’s Corner 7King Cole Bar 30Monkey Bar 29Oak Room 27Old Town Bar & Grill 20Pen-Top Bar 30Pete’s Tavern 19Spirit 14Subway Inn 31Swing 46 4
Music ClubsB.B. King Blues Club & Grill 11Birdland 8Irving Plaza 18Jazz Standard 24Satalla 25
TheatersAtlantic Theater Workshop 17Carnegie Hall 1City Center 2Joyce Theater 16Madison Square Garden 12New Victory 10New Perspectives 5Radio City Music Hall 28TADA! Youth Theater 26TKTS Ticket Booth 6Town Hall 9
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� The Old Town Bar & Grill, 45 E. 18th St., between Broadway andPark Avenue (% 212-529-6732). The bar where food is shuttled tocustomers via a dumb waiter from the basement kitchen has beenfeatured on film (The Devil’s Own) and TV (the opening credits ofLetterman in his NBC days). (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife”map.)
� Ear Inn, 326 Spring St., between Greenwich and Washington streets(% 212-226-9060). This cluttered old, 1870-established pub is acranky relief in super-chic Soho. (See the “Downtown Arts &Nightlife” map.)
� Dublin House, 225 W. 79th St., between Broadway and AmsterdamAvenue (% 212-874-9528). For years, like a welcoming beacon, theDublin House’s neon harp has blinked invitingly. This very old pubis a no-frills Irish saloon and the perfect spot for a drink after visit-ing the nearby Museum of Natural History or Central Park. TheGuinness is cheap and drawn perfectly by the very able and some-times crusty bartenders. (See the “Uptown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
For dive bar aficionados� Jimmy’s Corner, 140 W. 44th St., between Broadway and Sixth
Avenue (% 212-221-9510). Jimmy’s is a tough guy’s joint that hashappily survived the Disneyfication of Times Square. Beer is cheapand drinks aren’t fancy, so skip the theme bars and restaurants inthe area and go for an after-theater pop at Jimmy’s instead. (See the“Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� Subway Inn, 143 E. 60th St., at Lexington Avenue (% 212-223-9829).This is my all-time favorite dive and has been around for more than60 years. No matter what time of day, it’s always dark as midnightinside the Subway Inn. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
For drinks with a view� Rise Bar, at the Ritz-Carlton New York, Battery Park, 2 West St.
(% 212-344-0800). On the hotel’s 14th floor, the bar boasts incom-parable views of Lady Liberty and busy New York Harbor. (See the“Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� Pen-Top Bar, at the Peninsula Hotel, 700 Fifth Ave., at 55th Street(% 212-956-2888). The views of midtown Manhattan are awesomehere and make the steep price of the drinks easier to take. (See the“Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� 79th Street Boat Basin Cafe, 79th St., at the Hudson River (% 212-496-5542). As you sip your cocktail, enjoy a beautiful sunset andwatch boats bob on the river; you may just forget you’re in NewYork for a moment. Open from May through September. (See the“Uptown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� High Bar, 2 Lexington Ave., at 21st Street (% 212-475-4320). Thisbar is located on the rooftop of the legendary Gramercy Park Hotel,
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just opposite pristine and exclusive Gramercy Park. The scene at theHigh Bar, where the views of the Met Life Building, Gramercy Park,and the Empire State Building are gorgeous, has gotten so hot thatthey actually installed outdoor heaters to extend drinking alfrescointo the cooler months. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
For gay & lesbian nightlife� Barracuda, 275 W. 22nd St., between Seventh and Eighth avenues
(% 212-645-8613). Located in the heart of gay Chelsea, this bar isregularly voted best gay bar in New York by the various local GLBTpublications. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� Boiler Room, 86 E. 4th St., between First and Second avenues(% 212-254-7536). This is New York’s favorite gay dive bar and a funEast Village hangout. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� Duplex Cabaret, 61 Christopher St., at Seventh Avenue (% 212-255-5438; www.theduplex.com). High camp is the norm at this gaycabaret and piano-bar, still going after 50 years. It once hosted thelikes of Woody Allen and Joan Rivers in their early stand-up careers.(See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� Henrietta Hudson, 444 Hudson St., at Morton Street (% 212-924-3347; www.henriettahudsons.com). This popular lesbian hangouthas a great jukebox and a deejay on weekends. (Expect a $5 to$7 cover charge.) (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
Some of the hottest “clubs” are actually traveling parties that alight invarious spots depending on the day, making them hard for visitors tofind. Various publications — Time Out New York’s Gay & Lesbian section,as well as the GLBT–specific Homo Xtra, GONYC magazine, and othersI list in Chapter 6 — provide the best up-to-the-minute club information.Another good source is the Web; try the gay NYC site at www.gaycenter.org.
Hitting the Dance Clubs and Getting Acrossthe Velvet Rope
Dance club fame is transient; one year a club can be white hot, but thenext year it’s not even hip enough for the Bridge and Tunnel crowd. Thesedance clubs, as of this writing, are closer to the hot, hot, hot variety.
� Avalon, 660 Sixth Ave., at 20th Street (% 212-807-7780; www.nyavalon.com). The old dance club, the Limelight, once reignedsupreme at this location during the decadent 80s; now Avalon hasmoved into this large, former church with its many “private” rooms.(See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� Crobar, 530 W. 28th St., between 10th and 11th avenues (% 212-629-9000; www.crobar.com). This 25,000-square-foot club can fit
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up to 3,000 people, so the odds of you getting in are very good.Once inside, top-name deejays have you sweating in no time.(See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� Decade, 1117 First Ave., at 61st Street (% 212-835-5979). Here youfind a rare dance club where no matter your age, you won’t feel old.The vibe is upscale, and the music is mostly from the 70s, 80s, and90s. (See the “Uptown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
� Spirit, 530 W. 27th St., between 10th and 11th avenues (% 212-268-9477; www.spiritnewyork.com). This New Age dance emporiumfeatures a healing center and organic vegetarian restaurant, alongwith a 10,000-square-foot dance floor. (See the “Midtown Arts &Nightlife” map.)
� Swing 46, 349 W. 46th St., between Eighth and Ninth avenues(% 212-262-9554; www.swing46.com). As its name suggests,the music here, mostly live, is swing. And if swing dancing is newto you, free lessons are offered Wednesday through Saturday.(See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)
New York nightlife starts late and finishes really late. Things don’t starthappening until at least 11 p.m. Most places don’t take credit cards, sobring cash (or be prepared to fork over a high transaction charge atan in-house ATM). Cover charges can range from $7 to $30 and oftenincrease as the night goes on. The best source for club information isthe weekly Time Out New York magazine. It lists cover charges for theweek’s big events and gives sound advice on the type of music and thetype of crowd each event attracts. (Refer to this chapter’s introductionfor additional sources of entertainment information.)
If you’re somewhat masochistic, enjoy humiliation and ridicule, and aredetermined to get into that oh-so-trendy club you heard about back home,keep these pointers in mind to help you get beyond the velvet rope.
� Be polite.
� Dress fashionably.
� Don’t try to talk your way in.
� Arrive early (think 9 p.m.), and then be willing to hang out at amostly empty club until the action heats up.
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