CHAPTER 11

PROPERTIES OF THE HAIR AND

SCALP2012 Edition

Q. What are the two

ADD: chief purposes of hair?

A.Protection

B. Adornment

Add to the side bar:

Hair is an appendage of the skin

http://beautyeditor.ca/2009/10/27/save-vs-splurge-argan-oil-hair-treatments/

TRICOLOGY

scientific study of hair, its diseases, and care

comes from Greek words:

Trichos=hair

ology=the study of

Integumentary System

~the outer covering that encloses the entire

bodyincludes the hair, skin, nails, and glands

***is the largest and

fastest growing organ

bodyhttp://images.google.com/imgres?q=cross+section+of+skin+diagram&hl=en&gbv=2&biw=1008&bih=588&tbm=isch&tbnid=1HN3S_H2yA6bwM:&imgrefurl=http://www.elcosh.org/en/document/322/d000303/contact-derm-toolbox-talk.html&docid=0S3J3vPqFij8MM&imgurl=http://www.elcosh.org/record/document/322/image3.jpg&w=280&h=323&ei=75yuTsGlBYbn0QGeheXHDw&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=534&sig=115570578519706265263&page=2&tbnh=105&tbnw=91&start=15&ndsp=17&ved=1t:429,r:2,s:15&tx=49&ty=84

STRUCTURE OF THE HAIR

hair is divided into two parts:

Hair shaft

~projects above the epidermis

Hair root

~located below the surface of the epidermis (outer

layer of the skin)

Structures of the Hair Root

The main structures are:

Follicle

Bulb

Dermal papilla

Arrector pili muscle

Sebaceous glands

Follicle

~ tube-like depression or pocket in the skin or scalp

~ contains the hair root

~ distributed all over the body

~ except

*palms of the hands

*soles of the feet

~ multiple hairs/one follicle

The follicle

“Tunnel” epidermis (outer layer of the skin)

dermis (inner layer

of the skin)

Surrounds

the

dermal

papilla Internet source: acne-site.com

Hair bulb-the lowest area or part of the hair strand.thickened, club-shaped part of the hair root

fits over and covers the

dermal papillaInternet

source:

Missinglink.ucsf.edu

Dermal papilla

~ cone-shaped elevation

~ base of the hair follicle

~ fits into hair bulb.

contains the blood and nerve supply

provides nutrients

“mother of the hair”

Arrector pili:

small, involuntary muscle

~ base of the hair follicle.

Strong emotions(fear)

or cold

~ contracts

“goose bumps”www.unexpectedpages.com/.../goosebumps.jpg

Sebaceous glands

~ oil glands

~ connected to the hair follicles.

~ secretes oily substance

~ sebum

~ lubricates

Sebaceous gland

Structures of the Hair Shaft

Three main layers

1. Cuticle

~ outermost layer of hair

~ overlapping layer of transparent, scale-like cells

~ shingles on a roof

~provides a barrier/protects inner structure

~lies tightly against the cortex

~ creates shine, smooth silky feel

**Show----Feel hair strand (both ways)hair’s primary defense against damage

Internet source:

the gentle touch.com

Individual cuticle scales are attached to the cortex

***The hair has only one cuticle layer

Q. Why are we cautioned that there is only one cuticle layer?

Swelling the hair:

~ raises the cuticle layer

~ opens the space between the scales

~allows liquids to penetrate

              

Haircolor, permanent waving solutions, and chemical hair relaxers must have an alkaline (base) pH to penetrate

the cuticle layer

Swells cuticle/lifts/exposes cortex

Q. Is haircolor spelled correctly?

Internet source:

Hairdressersus.com

Damaged cuticle

Cortex-is the middle layer of the hair

~ fibrous protein

~elongated cells

~melanin pigment

Q. What does the word melanin mean?

~ elasticity of the hair

~ natural color

~ located in the cortex

all changes (physical or chemical) take place within the cortex

Activity: With a partner list on paper (be specific)

Q. Determine what services create aphysical change to the hair and which ones create a chemical change to the hair.2 people from each table write two answers on flip chart paper

Answer:

Physical-wet setting (rollers, pin curls, finger waves), thermal styling (includes blow drying, curling iron, flat iron, hot rollers, press and curl)

Chemical-permanent haircolor, hair lightening, permanent waving, chemical relaxing

               

Internet source:

Hairdressersus.com

Womensnet.com

In book- page222

Medulla-the inner most layer

~ composed of round cells

*missing medulla

~ very fine hair

~ naturally blonde hair

~coarse hair contains a medulla

Internet source:

Ecobyte.com.au

Bfro.net

All beard hair contains a medullanot involved in salon services

Add to side bar:

Barba-hair of the face

Capilli-hair on the head

Cilia-hair of the eyelashes

Supercilia-hair of the eyebrows

THE CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR

composed of protein in the hair follicle ADD: keratin

This is where the hair shaft begins

living cells form

journey upward through the hair follicle

process called keratinization.

As the cells mature

~ fill up with a fibrous protein

~keratin

~move upward

Killerstrands.blogspot.com

~ lose their nucleus

~ die

~ emerges from the scalp,

~ cells are keratinized

~ no longer living

~ nonliving fiber of keratinized protein

~ 90% protein

~protein made up of long chains of amino acids

Main elements: (chemical composition)

Carbon

Oxygen

Hydrogen

Nitrogen

Sulfurhttp://images.google.com/imgres?q=cohn%27s+elements+of+the+periodic+table&hl=en&gbv=2&biw=1024&bih=596&tbm=isch&tbnid=dUwFPL6QxJELcM:&imgrefurl=http://biology.clc.uc.edu/courses/bio104/atom-h2o.htm&docid=ML-VeqpxKSgnnM&imgurl=http://biology.clc.uc.edu/graphics/bio104/periodic.jpg&w=400&h=298&ei=WayuToiFA8O1gweb_b3KDw&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=287&sig=115570578519706265263&page=2&tbnh=106&tbnw=141&start=16&ndsp=18&ved=1t:429,r:10,s:16&tx=61&ty=70

Referred to as the COHNS elements

Also found in skin and nails

Add: chemical composition

Top of page shows the % of each element.

Amino acids- long chains of protein

•joined together like pop beads (candy

necklace) The chemical bond

that joins the amino acids to each other is called a peptide bond

or end bond.

•A long chain of amino acids linked by peptide bonds is called a

polypeptide.•spiral shape of coiled protein is called a helix.

Activity:

Do helix project

http://scienceray.com/biology/proteins/

THE SIDE BONDS OF THE CORTEX

•made up of millions of polypeptide chains

•Polypeptide chains are cross-linked by three different

types of side bonds:

Responsible for:

•Extreme strength

•Elasticity

Essential to:

•Wet sets

•Thermal styling

•Permanent waving

•Chemical hair relaxing

Three types 0f Side Bonds:

•Hydrogen bonds

•Salt bonds

•Disulfide bonds

Q. In the chart, what can be said about the three types of bonds?

Backreaction.blogspot.com

Easily broken by water or heat

Accounts for 1/3 of hair’s strength

Hydrogen bond

weak physical side bond

Wetting the hair:

•Allows the hair to be stretched and wrapped around rollers/rods

•Reforms when the hair dries

http://images.google.com/imgres?q=roller+sets+on+natural+hair&hl=en&biw=1024&bih=619&gbv=2&tbm=isch&tbnid=J1FgFtlgpV86eM:&imgrefurl=http://afropeanqueen.blogspot.com/2011/03/roller-set-re-done-and-hair-length.html&docid=tTmufLTEb1XB1M&imgurl=http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0a8SssYfC6c/TY-912zvlcI/AAAAAAAAAbM/HqHSoMDKDW8/s1600/DSCN0672.JPG&w=1200&h=1600&ei=T0T9TpeTHZPAgAfKrp2XAg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=611&vpy=185&dur=868&hovh=259&hovw=194&tx=108&ty=139&sig=115570578519706265263&page=10&tbnh=126&tbnw=103&start=171&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:4,s:171

Salt bond

weak physical side bond

Depend on pH

Easily broken by

-strong alkaline or acidic solutions

Accounts for 1/3 of hair’sstrength

Disulfide bond

~strong chemical side bondaccounts for 1/3 overall strength

Not broken by heat or water

Broken by:

~ permanent waves

~ chemical relaxers

~alters the shape of the hair

Thio permanent waves (base)

~ break the disulfide bonds

~ reformed by thio neutralizer (acid)

Hydroxide chemical hair relaxers

~ break disulfide bonds

~ bonds are broken permanently

(becomes lanthionine bond)

~ can never be reformed

Go over Figure 11-7 and 11-8

Read: Table 11-2 top of page

Read: Did you know-next page

Hair Pigment:

~ pigment located in the cortex

Melanin

~ tiny grains of pigment

~ cortex

The two main types:

1. Eumelanin

brown and black

2. Pheomelanin

red /ginger

yellow/blonde

~result: natural hair color- ratio of both

Wave PatternRefers to the shape of the hair strand

Described as:

•straight

•wavy

• curly

• extremely curly

result of genetics

General rule:

Asians

~extremely straight hair

Caucasians

~straight to wavy hair

African Americans

~extremely curly hair

all wave patterns

~ in all races

vary from strand to strand

~ same person’s head

theories to explain the cause of natural curly hair

One theory-the shape of the cross-section (round, oval, flat), determines the amount of curl, however, the shape of the cross-section does not always relate to the amount of curl.

Another theory-the result of one side of the hair strand growing faster than the other side, tension with in the strand causes the long side to curl around the short side. (not proven)

Extremely Curly Hair

long twisted spirals

coiled hair

~fine texture

low elasticity

breaks easily

~tendency to knot

gentle scalp manipulations

conditioning shampoos

detangling rinses help

HAIR GROWTH

Two main types of hair

Vellus (or lanugo)

Terminal

Vellus or lanugo hair:

Short

~ fine

~unpigmented

~downy

Almost never has a medula

Found on infants/children until puberty

On adults: found on places considered hairless

~forehead

~ eyelids

~ bald scalp

•Nearly all other areas

Except:

~ palms of hands

~ soles of feet

Hairireland.ie

•Helps in evaporation of perspiration

Terminal hair:

Long, coarse, pigmented hair

~ scalp

~ legs

~ arms

~ males and females

Coarser than vellus hair

Is pigmented

~ except gray hair

~ usually has a medulla

Hormone changes

~ during puberty

~ vellus hair replaced

~ thicker terminal hair

Hair follicles produce

~ vellus or

~ terminal hair

Depends

~ genetics

~ age

~ hormonal changes

THE GROWTH CYCLES OF HAIR

occurs in cycles---three phases

repeated over and over again

Anagen-growth phase

Catagen-transition phase

Telogen-resting phase

Anagen: The Growth Phase

New hair produced

New cells produced in Follicle

Hair cells are produced faster

Average growth

~ ½ inch per month

~rate of growth varies…read

About 90% of hair

~ in Anagen phase

~ lasts 3-5 years

~ to 10 years

Catagen: The Transition Phase

Brief transition period

Between the growth and resting phases

~ signals the end of growth

~ follicle canal shrinks

~ detaches from the dermal papilla

Hair bulb disappears

Less than one percent of hair is in this phase at one time

Very short,

lasts 1-2 weeks

Internet source:

Hairrestoration.com

Telogen : the Resting Phase

Final phase

Lasts until the fully grown hair is shed

or until the next new hair pushes out the old

10% in this phase

Lasts 3-6 months

Returns to Anagen phase

Cycle begins again

Repeats every 4-5 years

Ukhairdressers.comwww.agelesszonereno.com/about_ageless_zone_sp...

Myths:

Shaving, etc:

no effect on hair growth

Scalp massage:

no evidence

Gray hair more resistant

same as pigmented hair (I beg to differ)

Natural curl determined by race:

anyone can have any degree of curl

HAIR LOSS

Normal daily hair loss

~ three phases

Average daily hair loss

~ 75-100 hairs (this is the answer we want)

Information we want you to know:

Write on the side: Facts

•The average life span of hair is 4-6 years

•Everyone sheds 75-100 hairs per day

•Hair does not grow after death

•Eyebrows and eyelashes are replaced every 4-5 months

FYI: Causes of Hair Loss

Poor circulation Stress

Thyroid disease High blood pressure

Iron deficiency Pregnancy

Liver malfunction Chemotherapy

B & vitamin deficiencies Skin Disease

Large doses of Vitamin A High fever

Cholesterol Sudden weight loss

Alcohol and caffeineMedications

Psychemedics.com

THE EMOTIONAL IMPACT OF HAIR LOSS

medical community

~ not a medical condition

anguish

~ very real

~ overlooked

Bald men are perceived as:

•Less physically attractive (by both sexes)

•Less assertive

•Less successful

•Less personally likeable

•Older (by about 5 years)

How shallow we can be???

Bald men perceive themselves:

Experience negative

~ social and emotional effects

Preoccupied with their baldness

Make effort

~ conceal

~ compensate

For women

~ very traumatic

~ devastating

~ feel anxious

~ helpless

~ less attractive

63 million people in US

~ suffer from abnormal hair loss (alopecia)

you will be the first person that a hair loss sufferer will confide in

understand…

~types of hair loss

~products and services available

TYPES OF ABNORMAL HAIR LOSS

Abnormal hair loss

~alopecia

Most common types are:

Androgenic alopecia

Alopecia areata

Postpartum alopecia

Androgenic/androgenetic alopecia

miniaturization of terminal hair

*converting it to vellus hair

The result

~ genetics (heredity)

~ age

~ hormonal changes

Can begin in the teens

~frequently by 40

male pattern baldness

horseshoe-shaped

fringe

In women

~ generalized thinning

~ crown area

Sacimdokuluyor.com

Sacimdokuluyor.com

Healthhype.com

Add to side bar:

Alopecia Senilis:

baldness due to old age

Alopecia Prematura:

baldness that begins before middle age

autoimmune disease

~ hair follicles

~ attacked by immune system

White blood cells

~ stop hair growth

(anagen phase)

Alopecia areata

FYI- just know

sudden falling out

~ patches

~ baldness in spots

scalp and body

(In book) unpredictable skin disease

Add to side bar:

Possible cause: flairs up with stress and trauma

Associatedcontent.com

Usually begins

~ one or more

~ round, small

~ smooth patches on the scalp

Can progress total scalp hair loss

~ alopecia totalis

males and females

~ begins in childhood

~ no signs of inflammation

~ no skin disorder or disease

Or complete body hair loss

~ alopecia universalis

POSTPARTUM ALOPECIA

Temporary hair loss ~experienced at the end of a

pregnancy

Very little hair loss during pregnancy

Sudden and excessive shedding from 3-9 months after

delivery

Returns to normal within one year

Internet source Ezinearticles.com

FYI Estrogen stimulates hair follicles

~ anagen growing phase

~ hair does not cycle as it normally would.

***After child is born

~ estrogen level drops

~ hair enters the catagen and telogen phase

~ very traumatic

~ returns to normal

one year

Add to side bar:

Telogen Effluvium:

Premature shedding in resting phase

Possible causes:

difficult childbirth fever

shock drug intake

crash diets

Add to side bar:

Traumatic Alopecia:

Hair loss due to repetitive traction on the hair by pulling or twisting

Possible causes:

~ excessive application of chemicals

(perms/relaxers)

~ excessive use of hot combs

HAIR LOSS TREATMENTS

Minoxidil and Finasteride

~ have been proven to stimulate hair growth

~ approved by FDA

Minoxidil

~ topical medication

~ applied to scalp

~ twice a day

                                                                             

                 

                

   

www.thehairlossclinicstore.com/store/media/mi...

Sold O-T-C

~ men and women

~ 2% or 5% strength

~ no known side effects

Myth: Hair loss is inherited from your father Fact:

Both parent's genes are a factor.

Androgenetic alopecia is genetically-linked hair thinning.

Internet source: Myths and facts about hair loss:

Myth: (not in book) (do not add)

Teasing, using hair color, other products, or frequently washing hair increases hair loss.

Fact: Normal hair care doesn't affect hair loss.

Finasteride

~ oral prescription medication

~ for men only

~ more effective

~ more side effects

~ women can not use

~ pregnant women

causes birth defects

Surgical options:

Transplant or hair plugs

~ removing small sections of hair

~ follicle, papilla, and bulb from the back

~ transplanting in the bald area.

Internet source:

Hairtransplantnetwork.com

The bulb grows normally in the new location

Surgeons

Several surgeries

$8,000-$20,000

Add to side bar:

medical treatment

scalp reduction

Internet source:

Newhair.com

Howstuffworks.com

non-surgical/non-medical hair replacements:

~ wigs

~ toupees

~ hair weaving

~ hair extensions

Learn to fit

~ color

~ cut

~ style wigs and toupees

Weavings and extensions

~ enhance client’s natural hair

~ boosts their self-esteem

Internet source:

Madeinchina.com

Wigsontop.com

Jewel-and-jewel.com

Beasbraiding.com

DISORDERS OF THE HAIR

CANITIES

~ gray hair

~ loss of the natural melanin pigment

~ same as pigmented hair

Two types:

Congenital Canities

~ exists at or before birth

~ occurs in albinos

~ can be patchy

Add:

Albino-person born with no coloring matter, resulting in white hair

Acquired Canities

~ develops with age

~ result of genetics.

~ may develop

* worry

* anxiety

* prolonged illness

Trihup.cpm

More.com

Ringed hair

~ alternating bands

~ gray and pigmented hair

~ length of hair strand

Hypertrichosis

~ hirsuities

~ abnormal growth of hair

~ terminal hair in areas of vellus hair

~ mustache or light beard on women

Remember: Hyper=excess hair

On test: Superflous- more than usual

http://images.google.com/imgres?q=hypertrichosis&hl=en&gbv=2&biw=1024&bih=619&tbm=isch&tbnid=LE6TnepyUWAFwM:&imgrefurl=http://ahsmediacenter.pbworks.com/w/page/1991874/Hypertrichosis-%2520Introduction%2520and%2520Types%2520-%25202&docid=V01tUYVOrCsSeM&imgurl=http://img.tfd.com/wiki/3/3e/Hypertrichosis.jpg&w=350&h=505&ei=atX9TpHSIIvQgAec2MWfAg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=473&vpy=138&dur=2681&hovh=270&hovw=187&tx=114&ty=160&sig=115570578519706265263&page=1&tbnh=104&tbnw=72&start=0&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:3,s:0

http://images.google.com/imgres?q=hypertrichosis&hl=en&gbv=2&biw=1024&bih=619&tbm=isch&tbnid=61rXe3OxJwVplM:&imgrefurl=http://www.hairremoval4guys.com/hirsute-women.html&docid=02f8UUb6lxn_1M&imgurl=http://www.hairremoval4guys.com/images/Hirsute_Women_01.jpg&w=314&h=235&ei=atX9TpHSIIvQgAec2MWfAg&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=214&sig=115570578519706265263&page=5&tbnh=124&tbnw=157&start=72&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:9,s:72&tx=103&ty=92

treatments include

~electrolysis ~photoepilation

~laser hair removal

~tweezing ~shaving

~electronic tweezers

~depilatories

~threading ~sugaring

Trichoptilosis

split ends

treatments:

~ conditioning to soften

~ remove by cutting

Remember: Chop=needs cutting or “chop off”

Trichorrhexis Nodosa

knotted hair

~ brittleness

~ formation of nodular swellings along the hair shaft

~ hair breaks easily

~ broken fibers spread out like a brush along hair shaft

Treatments:

~ conditioners

~ moisturizers

Remember: Trichorrhexis nodosa

-Needs correcting

-nodosa-nodules

Monilethrix

beaded hair

~ breaks easily between the beads or nodes

Treatments:

~ hair and scalp conditioning

Fragilitas crinium

brittle hair

~ may split at any part of their length

Treatment:

~ hair and scalp conditioning

~cutting above the split to prevent further damage

Remember: Fragile=brittle

segal.koreanbusiness.co.kr/.../book-photo3.gif

DISORDERS OF THE SCALP

outer layer

~ shed

~ replaced by new cells

Healthy, normal scalp cells fall off naturally

~ small, dry flakes

~ without being noticed

dry scalp-(not dandruff)

~ flakes much smaller

~ less noticeable flakes

contact dermatitis, sunburn, or extreme age

worse in cold, dry climates

Medical term for dandruff:

Pityriasis

excessive production and accumulation of skin cells

large visible clumps of cells

dandruff is the result of a fungus called malassezia

Malassezia

naturally occurring fungus

present on all human skin

symptoms when it grows out of control

stress, age, hormones, and poor hygiene can cause symptoms to worsen

antidandruff shampoos contain antifungal agents

~pyrithione zinc (professional and OTC)

~selenium sulfide (Selson Blue)

~ketoconazole (OTC-Nizoral)

suppresses the growth of malassezia hairbeautycollections.com.a

u

Pyrithione zinc is gentle enough to be used everyday

color-treated hair

frequent use is essential

Nature.com

Mild,moderate,severe cases

School’s of thought go back and forth as to dandruff being contagious. Mrs. Kucas and I feel that dandruff is contagious. (contradicts your book)

***Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of this disorder

Two principal types:

Pityriasis capitis simplex:

•technical term for classic dandruff

ADD: dry dandruff

•scalp irritation

•large {thin} flakes

• itchy scalp

Scales may:

•attach to the scalp in masses

•scatter loosely in the hair

•fall to the shoulders

Add to side bar:

Dry dandruff is the result of a sluggish scalp caused by:

• poor circulation

• lack of nerve stimulation

• improper diet

•emotional and glandular disturbances

•poor personal hygiene

Treatments include:

antidandruff shampoos

conditioners

“medicated” topical lotions

“Antiseptic” scalp lotions

scalp treatments

regular scalp massage

Add: medicated/antiseptic

Pityriasis steatoides

•more severe

•accumulation of greasy or waxy scalp scales

•mixed with sebum

•stick to the scalp in patches or crusts

•When accompanied by redness and inflammation is:

“seborrheic dermatisis”

(if torn off bleeding or oozing of the sebum results)

•Can be found in eyebrows/beards

•Client with these two conditions (Pityriasis steatoides and seborrheic dermatitis) must be referred to a physician for medical treatment

FUNGAL INFECTIONS (TINEA)

TINEA

•ringworm

•itching, scales, and sometimes, painful circular lesions

•Several may be present at the same time

•A fungal (vegetable) organism is not an animal parasite

Rancocasvalley.com

•All forms are contagious

•Easily transmitted

FYI: Infected skin scales and hairs that contain the fungi are known to spread the disease

•Bathtubs

•Swimming pools

•Unsanitary personal articles

•Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of

this disease***Clients with this condition must be referred to a physician for medical treatment

Tinea barbae (barber’s itch)

•Infection resulting from hair services

•Mustache and beard

•Similar to tinea capitis in appearance

•Do not perform services!!!

•Refer to physician

dermis.net

dermatology.cdlib.org

TINEA CAPITIS

Add to side bar: Ringworm of the scalp

• Characterized by red papules, or spots

•at opening of the hair follicles

•patches spread

~hair brittle and lifeless

•hair often breaks off

•leaving only a stump

•may be shed from the enlarged open follicle

visualdx

Tinea favosa/ Tinea Favus

Add to side bar:

honeycomb ringworm

•dry

•sulfur-yellow, cup-like crusts

•on the scalp called scutula

•distinctive odor

Scars: bald patches that may be pink or white and shiny

ADD:very contagious-refer to physician

Doctorfungus.org

Tinea capitis

Tinea favosa

SCABIES

•itch is a highly contagious skin disease

•itch mite burrowing under the skin

ANIMAL PARASITIC INFECTIONS

•vesicles (blisters)

•pustules (inflamed pimples with pus)

•usually form on the scalp from the irritation caused by this animal parasite

•excessive itching makes the condition worse

Stanford.edu

Stanford.edu

Commonswikimedia.org

Tunnel/burrow of parasite

Clients with this condition must be referred to a physician for medical treatment

•Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread

of this disease

PEDICULOSIS CAPITIS

•infestation

~ hair and scalp

~ head lice

•feed on the scalp

~ dead skin cells

•itching

~ scratching can cause an infection

•transmitted

Pedistrics.about.com

Headlicetrix.com

Pediatrics.about.com

Media.acbnews.com

Pediatrics.about.com

Pediatrics.about.com

img.medscape.com/.../211212-225013-2402.jpg

img.medscape.com/.../211212-225013-2402.jpg

Empty shell left after lice hatch

cm.edu.qt

howtodo101.com/.../

• contact with infested hats, combs, brushes and other personal articles

•you can distinguish them from dandruff flakes by looking

closely at the scalp with a magnifying glass

• Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of this disease

•Do not perform a service on anyone who has head lice

• Several nonprescription medications are available

•Clients with this condition must be referred to a physician or pharmacist

FYI

Recently on the news, they reported that the lice are becoming resist to the shampoos that kill the lice. This means the lice will be much harder or impossible to get rid of.

STAPHYLOCOCCI INFECTIONS

•Are bacteria that infect the skin or scalpFuruncle:

• boil is an acute localized bacterial infection of the hair follicle that produces constant pain

• limited to a specific area

• produces a pustule perforated by a hair

Onlinehealthbook.com

Carbuncle:

•inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue

~ caused by staphylococci

•similar to furuncle only larger

Missinglinkucsf.edu

http://www.merck.com/mmhe/sf/multimedia/17178ap/t/sec18-ch211-ch211g.html

• Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of these

disease

•Do not perform services

Clients with this condition must be referred to a physician for medical treatment

HAIR ANALYSIS

all services begin:

~analysis of client’s hair type

~condition

*determines the results that can be expected from the service

different types of hair

~react differently to the same service

performed prior to all salon services

Factors:

texture

elasticity

porosity

density

growth pattern

dryness/oiliness

HAIR TEXTURE

thickness or diameter

~ individual hair strand

coarse

medium

fine

different areas of the head

~may have different textures

Coarse texture

large diameter

more resistant

requires more processing time

*hair lighteners *permanent waves

*haircolors *chemical relaxers

styletips101.com

Medium texture

most common

considered normal (standard)

does not pose any special problems or

concerns

your-hairstyles.com

Fine texture

smallest diameter

fragile

easier to process

more susceptible to damage from chemical services short-hair-style.com

Determined

~ by feeling a single dry strand

~ between the fingersTake an individual strand from:

• Front hairline

• The temple

• The crown

• The nape

hold the strand securely

~ feel it with the thumb and forefinger of the

other handfeel the difference between

~ coarse

~ medium

~ fine Read “Focus on”

HAIR DENSITY

measures

~ number of individual hair strands

~ on one square inch

how many on one person’s head

Classified as:

Low textbook Thin

Medium Medium

High Thick

Mrs. Kucas

Mrs. Mandato

same hair texture

~different densities

i.e.

Coarse hair texture

~ low density (thin)

fine hair texture

~ high density (thick)

average hair density

~ 2,200 hairs per square inchaverage head

~ 100,000 hairs

~ varies with the color

blondes high density

redheads lowest

Table 11-4

Q. How do we determine what the amount of density is?

a. Use fingers to feel the hair

b. Look at the scalp area

c. Ask the client how dense they think their hair is

d. Ask another stylist to help us decide

HAIR POROSITY

ability of the hair to absorb moisture

condition of the cuticle layer

compact cuticle layer

~ resistant to penetration

referred to as Hydrophobic

(phobic---does not like)

porous hair/raised cuticle

~ easily absorbs moisture

~Referred to as Hydrophilic

(philic---attracted to)

low porosity

~ resistant

~ more alkaline solution

~ longer processing time

alkaline solutions

~ raise the cuticle

permit uniform

~ saturation and processing

Average/normal porosity

~ considered normal

~ processes as expected

*according to the texture

High porosity

~ overly porous

~ result of over processing

~ damaged

~ dry

~ fragile and brittle

~ less alkaline solutions (lower pH)

POROSITY TEST

dry hair (I like clean, towel dried hair)

one inch patch

hold strand securely

Technicurl.com

*slide the thumb and forefinger of the other hand

*3-4” from the end

*to the scalp three times

Determining the results:

no hair or nearly no hair

~very resistant

small amount

~resistant

medium amount

~average or normal

a lot of hair comes down=porous

most of the hair comes

down=overly porous

Q. How strong should the chemical solution be for this kind of hair?

Q. What four areas of the head should be checked?

Textbook: 3 descriptions

Low (resistant)

Average

Highly porous

Mrs. Kucas/Mrs. Mandato: 5 descriptions

Add:

Very resistant

Resistant

Normal/average

Porous

Highly/very porous

HAIR ELASTICITY

Ability of the hair to

~stretch and return

~original length

~without breaking

Indication of the strength of the side bonds

wet hair with normal elasticity

~ stretch up to 50% of its original length

~ return without breaking

Dry hair stretches 20%

***will hold the curl from wet sets and permanent waves

low elasticity:

~ brittle

~ breaks easily

does not hold curl

low elasticity

~ overprocessedmilder solution

~ lower pH

ELASTICITY TEST

Check elasticity

~wet hair

~individual strand

Hold a single strand of wet hair

~ try to pull it apart

***Also called a pull test

stretches and returns to

~ original length without breaking

~ normal/good elasticity

breaks easily

~ fails to return to its original length

~ it has low/poor elasticity***crinkles=bad

Q. Describe texture and give the classifications and how to tell.

Q. What are the classifications for density?

Q. Explain what porosity is, its classifications and the test for porosity.

Q. Define elasticity, list classifications, describe the test.

GROWTH PATTERNS

important

~ shaping and styling hair

growth patterns

~streams, whorls, and cowlicks

Hair stream:

•flowing same direction

•follicles sloping same direction

•two streams opposite directions

~ form a natural part

Internet source:

Justformom slides.com

Whorl:

•forms a circular pattern

•crown

Dana.org

Cowlick:

•Tuft of hair

~ stands straight up

•Usually at the front hairline

•May be located anywhere

Internet source:

Hairboutique.com

DRY HAIR AND SCALP

inactive sebaceous glands

dry climate

hair appears dull, dry and lifeless

moisturizers and emollients

Avoid frequent

shampooing

Internet source:

Pq.com/science/hair care

Avoid

~ strong soaps

~ detergents

~ products with high alcohol content

Dry hair

~not overly-porous

OILY HAIR AND SCALP

Causes:

greasy buildup on scalp

oily coating

improper shampooing

overactive sebaceous glands

normalizing shampoo

Well-balanced diet

Exercise

Regular shampooing

Good personal hygiene

will control oily hair and scalp

Read:

Healthy Hair, Happy Clients