chapter 1 the fundamentals of fashion. fashion from concept to consumer, 8/e© 2005 pearson...

Chapter 1

The Fundamentals of Fashion

Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e © 2005 Pearson Education, Inc.Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

France, the Center of Fashion

• Prior to the Industrial Revolution, people belonged to one of two classes:– Wealthy landowners– Poor laborers and farmers

• Only wealthy people could afford fashionable clothing.

• Royalty set trends and aristocrats followed their example to gain approval.


France, the Center of Fashion

• Clothes were hand made and custom fitted.• Poor people wore castoff clothing from the rich

or made their own clothes, eventually evolving into traditional folk costume.

• The French royal court’s patronage, along with development of local silk industry, established France as the world fashion center.


Effects of the Industrial Revolution on Fashion

• The modern textile industry emerged in England with the following inventions:– John Kay flying shuttle (1733)– James Hargreaves spinning jenny (1764)– Richard Arkwright water frame (1769)– Edmund Cartwright power loom (1785)


Effects of the Industrial Revolution on Fashion

• By 1814 America had successfully copied the power loom and by 1847 the textile industry employed more people than any other domestic industry.

• The Industrial Revolution also created a middle class with money to spend on clothing among other things.

• This influenced fashion trends and made fashion a status symbol to a much wider group of people.


Mass Production of Clothing

• A mass produced sewing machine with foot treadles was introduced by Isaac Singer in 1859

• The former handcraft was turned into an industry.• Women’s constraining garments were indicative of

their societal social status.• As the restraints on women’s rights began to ease,

clothing in the form of separates, began to reflect this.


Retailing in the Nineteenth Century

• The Industrial Revolution created a self supporting mechanism of manufacturing and retailing.

• Retailers, evolving from fairs and bazaars, grew up in cities close to production and population centers.

• Two kinds of retailers emerged:– Specialty stores evolved from handicraft stores

– Department stores evolved from general stores


Retailing in the Nineteenth Century

• Mail order merchandising grew in response to the large number of Americans still living in rural areas during the 19th century;– 1872: Montgomery Ward’s mail-order catalogue– 1875: Montgomery Ward’s “satisfaction

guaranteed or your money back” policy– 1886: Sears Roebuck opens


Communications, Leisure, and Industry

• France and England begin publishing fashion magazines in the early 19th century, with America following later in the century.

• Sports like bicycling and tennis create demand for less restrictive women’s apparel eventually setting the stage for acceptance of pants.


Communications, Leisure, and Industry

• New York, with its abundance of cheap labor, became the nation’s garment center.

• Trade unions were established in reaction to the oppressive working conditions for factory workers.

• The Triangle Shirtwaist Fire of March 25, 1911, which resulted in the deaths of 146 workers, highlighted this need.


World War I, Women, and Fashion

• As women moved into the work world early in the 20th century, the need for convenient, ready-made clothing helped the apparel industry to grow and gained acceptance for ready-to-wear.

• World War I accelerated this as women replaced the men sent overseas to fight.

• Functional working clothes worn by women created a new look in fashion, one of simple dressing permitting freedom of movement.

• Coinciding with rising labor costs, it resulted in the democratization of fashion.


World War I, Women, and Fashion

• Paul Poirets tubular dresses liberated women from corsets.

• Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel popularized boyish styles and high fashion pants for women.

• Jean Patou confirmed young independent women as the new ideal with his “flapper” look of 1925.


Retail Expansion in the Early Twentieth Century

• Early in the 20th century specialty stores emerged with new retailing approaches and high fashion merchandise.

• Chain stores became a national phenomenon, led by J.C. Penney.

• Housing expansion to the suburbs and increased car usage continues the trend.


Effects of the Depression on Fashion

• The worldwide depression, which started in 1929, pushed many Americans to the cinema to take their minds off the grim economic realities of the time.

• This resulted in Hollywood’s most glamorous efforts with slacks for women and sport shirts for men gaining wide acceptance.

• Gilbert Adrian, the leading Hollywood designer, was the first American to influence fashion through film.


Effect of World War II on Fashion

• The occupation of Paris forced Americans to find their own style direction.

• Claire McCardell originated the “American Look” in practical separates inspired by work and sport clothes typical of Americans.

• Sportswear dovetailed perfectly with the move towards mass production of apparel.


Reactionary Postwar Fashion

• Informal suburban sportswear continued to grow in importance post war.

• France, conversely, returned to prewar status for women, with feminine ideals restored via the “New Look.”

• Christian Dior created this look of longer, fuller skirts, smooth, rounded, sloping shoulders and tiny fitted waists.


The Youth-Directed 1960s

• With over 50% of the American population, markets responded to the youth movement.

• British designers developed the “Mod” look and men’s fashion became more flamboyant.

• Family owned fashion businesses disappeared, often merging or being purchased by large, multiproduct corporations.


Antifashion of the Late 1960s and 1970s

• The Antifashion movement of this period mirrored the tumultuous social times of the late 60s.

• Looking poor became fashionable, eventually spurring an “Ethnic Look.”

• Yves Saint Laurent interpreted this and emerged as the fashion star of the 70s.

• Physical fitness and labels also became important, as well as “Dressing for Success.”


The Acquisitive 1980s

• Fashion evolved into a global phenomenon with Americans and Europeans greatly increasing imports.

• Giorgio Armani’s tailored look perfectly fit the career woman's needs.

• His success in merchandising and licensing also helped propel Italy to the forefront of international fashion.

• Japan enjoyed notoriety while Frances couture industry revived.


The Value-Oriented 1990s

• The international recession of the early 90s spurred discount and off price store growth.

• The overstoring of the 80s led to massive store closures.

• Similarly, manufacturers suffered domestically, particularly textile mills.

• Karl Lagerfeld’s many collections had profound impact, while Prada and Gucci became global trendsetters.


The Twenty-First Century

• The vigorous economy of the new millennium renewed fashion interest.

• As the economy slowed, collections focused and buyers became more conservative.

• In an effort to keep prices down, imports increased to 90% of apparel sold in the United States, contributing to the effective end of domestic apparel manufacturing.

chapter 1 the fundamentals of fashion. fashion from concept to consumer, 8/e© 2005 pearson...

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