chain saw and the lumber maker

7/28/2019 Chain Saw and the Lumber Maker

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MICROFICHEREFERENCE

A project of Volunteers in Asiaand tie Lmermakt-rhe Cusaw

Published by:Haddon Tools4719 West Route 120McHenry, IL 60050 USAPaper copies dre $ 1.00.Available from:Haddon Tools4719 West Rout& 120McHenry, IL 60050 USAReproduced by permission of Haddon Tools.Reproduction of this microfiche document in anyform is subject to the same restrictions as thoseof the original document.


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$1.00


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Now, with LUMBER/MAKER you can make all kinds of basic lumber with yourchain saw, right where the log lies, 2 x 4s, 2 x 8s, 2 x 8s, boards, beams, d imen-sions, timbers, braces, rustics, for use in hundreds of ways, steps, framing,benches, fences, roofing, mantels, walks, repair lumber, boxes, beams, ramps,docks, skids, lifts, gates, the !ist is endless. The chain saw LUMBER/MAKERlets you change logs you might want to get rid of into lumber, your OWN lum-ber, easy, and at a fraction of the usual cost. This saves you trips to the saw mil l,or the lumbsr yard, and provides you with plenty of your own home work-shoplumber; saves you real money too. This little booklet shows you how.

The LUMBER/MAKER lets you turn logs into many other useful things besideslumber, too, such as perfect rounds for walks, table tops, signs, stairs, steps,shelves, bookcases, etc., and make all these things with a small saw too.

Yes, with LUMBER/MAKER, you can make a complete new cabin, sawing inthe windows and the door, making the joints, foundations, splicing logs, makingangles, etc., a cabin you will be proud of, proud to own, and get real use from.This booklet not only tells you these things can be done, it shows you how todo them.


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THE CHAIN SAW LUMBER/MAKERThe chain saw .LUMBER/MAKERwas developed as an accessory to givethe saw user many new and practicaluses for the chain saw that he doesnthave without it. It is light in wi;light,simple to use, easy to install. It fitsall chain saws, installs in seconds, andworks by controlling direction anddepth of the cut.The LUMBER/MAKER requires nospecial tools to work, no specialchains, no special skills. It rips bywhittling with the grain, saws fastwith less dulling than end cutting.Here it is -

Even though the tool has been namedLUMBER/MAKER it dots an amaz-ing number of things besides makinglumber. It lets the saw user makeangles, perfect rounds, braces, beams,the list is endless. It prct:!des a port-able vise for starting, sharpening;assists in felling. Even with theLUMBER/MAKER on the saw thesaw can be used for all normal oper-ations, such as trimming, bucking,etc.The LUMBER/MAKER is, to a chainsaw user what a mitre box is to acarpenter, what a guide rail and atilting arbor is to a table saw user. Itmakes any chain saw *(vorth manytimes more than it is without it, yetcosts but a fraction of the cost ofthe saw.TAKE ONE LOOK AT THIS TOOLAND YOU KNOW IT WILL WOR K!!!First, lets make lumber. Right wherethe logs lie, too.Heres how. . . . . .

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HERES THE WAY TO MAKE 5ASlC LUMBERThe LUMBER/MAKER works byguiding a chain saw down a boardfastened nn top of a log, or a cantof lumber. Suggested boards to beused as guide boards are 2 x 4s or2 x 6s, available in any lumber yard.Lets practice making lumber by firstmaking a 4 x 4. Take a log, 6 inchesor so in diameter, and nail a 2 x 4,centered, along the top. The picturebelow shows a log with a 2 x 4 cen-tered and nailed to it.

After the 2 x 4 has been placed andnailed on the log, put the LUMBER/MAKER on the 2 x 4 as in the pic-ture below and slide it up and downthe 2 x 4, at the same time adjustingthe stop angle so it does not b ind,When it has been adjusted to slideright, fasten it tight with a wrench asshown in the photo below.

Next, put the LUMBER/MAKER onthe chain saw. The picture belowshows the way to do this:The LUMBER/MAKER works bestmounted inside the chain bar, as inphoto below. It balances the saw inthat position. Put the chain bar inthe clamp. Allow enough room forthe chain to freely pass through theclamp. Then tighten the LUMBER/MAKER fast to the chain bar withthe set screws as shown. Use theAllen wrench that comes with theLUMBER/MAKER.

Tha set screws in the clamp are espe-cially hardened and designed formaximum hold intu the chain bar.Three of them are provided eventhough two are all that is necessary,the extra one being for safety. Theset screws provide a fast and easyway to mount the LUMBER/MAKERany place on the chain bar, yet itmay be taken off and reset inseconds.When mounting the LUMBE R/MAK-ER to the chain bar with the setscrews, be certain that the point ofpressure falls above the bar rails, sothey will not be pinched and impedechain travel. For most LUMBER/MAKING purposes the LUMBER/MAKER will mount inside thechain bar close to the power unit, asshown in the picture above.

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When mounting the LUMBER/MAK-ER to the chain bar with the setscrews, tighten the screws evenly,and by hand only, with the two-in-a-row being tightened first. Tightenthe single one last. These set screwswill bite into the chain bar. Afteryou have tightened them by hand,bring the third screw up snug, in caseone of the other screws happens toloosen. This screw will act as a safety.When using the set screws to mountthe LUMBER/MAKER on the chainbar, remember that the clamp spreadsslightly to keep the screws under con-tinuous tension. Tighten them alter-nately and evenly, by hand, with thekey that comes with the tool, untilthey are set. When you want to takethe LUMBER/MAKER nff your saw,LOOSEN THE SCREW, FIRST ONETHEN THE OTHER, .k, LITTLE ATA TIME. If you dont,. tension on thelast one might be so great you willhave trouble removing it. If you havetrouble removing any screw becauseit is set too tight, turn the othersback in to take the tension off theone that is stuck, then remove it.Do try this set-screw setting a time ortwo to get the feel of it before you-actually use it. After you have tighten-jd the set-screws, test for actual setby attempting to move the clamp onthe bar. An alternate way to mountthe LUMBER/MAKER to the chainsaw with nuts and bolts, is likewiseavailable, and has its advantages,especially when lumber making iscontinuous or the saw is large. Thismounting is described later on ir,this booklet. With the LUMBER/MAKER on the saw and the guideboard on the log, were ready tomake the 4 x 4.Start up the saw, and with the LUM-BER/MAKER riding the guide board,saw off first one side of the log, thenthe other. The illustrations belowshow one side off, and the next beingsawed off. Both sides are removedwithout moving the guide board.

After the first 2 sides are sawed off,take the guide board off, turn thelog a sawed side up, nail the guideboard back on a sawed side and sawoff the other two sides. The secondpicture shows the third side off andthe fourth being taken off.

The picture below shows the 4 x 4we just made:

While 2 x 4s make very satisfactoryguide boards, when handling largerlogs you get more stability by usinga 2 x 6, since it does not twist orbend as easily, especially importantfor the first, or rough cut. To usea 2 x 6 for a guide board, use it justlike the 2 x 4 except remove the stop3


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angle from the LUMBER/MAKER,as shown in the following picture:

When using a 2 x 6 as a guide board,the saw rides on a larger surface, anddoes more precise work.MAKING A 6 x 6 TIMBER

Select a log, at least 9 in diameter,and using a 2 x 6 for a guide board,process like we did for the 4 x 4. Thdfollowing picture shows a log, 2 x 6guide board, one cut already takenand the second cut being taken, thesarne procedure when making the4 I< 4.

After the first 2 sides have been saw-ed off the log, it is turned, a sawedside up, and the guide board refasten-ed on top.

Then, two more cuts are taken, onedown one side of the guide ;nard,the other back up. The pictux be-low shows one side off, the other be-ing taken off.

The following picture shows the 6 x 6timber we just made. This was madefrom a log considered fit for nothingbut firewood.

The above illustrations show 4 x 4sand 6 x 6s made with the LUMBER/MAKER using 2 x 4s and 2 x 6s asguide boards. You may also make8 x 8s, IO x 10s and 12 x 12s,using 2 x 8s, 2 x 10s and 2 x 12sas guide boards, with a slight modi-fication. Heres how:

1) Nail 1 x 1% strips flush alongthe edges of the planks as shown inthe picture below.

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2) Re-position the stop bracket bymoving it over, and adjusting itagainst the strip. The picture belowshows the stop bracket properlypositioned. After the adjustment hasbeen made, tighten firm.

Process logs, using these 2 x 8, 2 x 10,2 x 12 planks with the side strips, thesame as before, by sawing first downone side then back up the other.

The following picture shows all fiveguide boards.

2x4 2x6 2x8 2x10 2x12

Since the guide boards shown abovesaw parallel sides when used in the

above manner, they essentially con-trol the width of the lumber made.So to make lumber in a hurry, justsaw a pair of sides with the guideboard, then turn a sawed side up, andslice off the thicknesses you want.This same wdii,c~tion is ub3d tomake log cabi;> logs, both cross andfiller, as outlined in the log cabinsection of this booklet.Timbers can be readily processed in-to other size lumber when My arefirst cut, or kept for future use, forinstance a 6 x 6, into three 2 x 6planks. Heres how:To saw a 6 x 6 timber into 3 - 2 x 6planks, use a rule and mark into threeequal parts, marking at each end. Setthe guide board so the saw kerf willcenter the mark, and saw off the firstone, then reset and split for the nexttwo, as shown in ?he pictures below:


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After you have made a cant from alog, you might wish to saw it intoboards such as 1 thick. Heres how:The thickness of. either boards orplanks is controlled by how far inyou set the guide board from a sawededge. You can make this set-overwith a rule, as for the set over madeon the 6 x 6 timber to saw 2 x 6planks described above.To saw I thick boards, mark 1 ir.from the edge, then set the guideboard so the saw kerf will saw just tothis mark. (This usually means theguide board will be set in about l-5/8from a sawed edge to saw 1 boards).The picture below shows a log turnedso a sawed side is top and bottom, athird side off and a cut started for aboard of 1 thickness.

A better, faster way to set guideboards is described later, underMaking a set over gauge.

HAdDLING LARGER LOGS,PROBLEM LOGS, ETC.On larger logs where it is difficult tofasten the guide board in a true posi-tion without twisting, due to logsshape, length, position, . etc., nailcleats across each end of the log as asupport for the guide board, thenlevel them with a pocket level. Becertain the cleats are raised highenough so the guide board iust clears.Place shims, if necessarb I take outsag.Process the log like before. Take aside off, then move the guide boardover an equal distance from the saw-ed side, and take off a parallel side.After parallel sides have been re-moved, tip the cant over, a sawedside down, put the guide board backon, and saw up like before.

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The first picture shows the cleats inplace, the guide board on, and thefirst cut being made. The next pic-ture shows one side off, the .guideboard moved over, and the secondside being taken off. The next pictureshows both sides off, the log tippedover with a sawed side up, the guideboard back on and the first boardbeing sawed off one edge.

MAKING A SETOVER GAUGEAfter you have made the cant of lum-ber you may wish to saw it into dim-ension lumber, 2 x 4, 2 x 6, 2 x 8,timbers, or boards either one or allof them. While the set-over meas-urements for the guide board may bemade with a rule, this means makingeach setting, one at a time. It is easierto make a simple set-over gauge tomake these settings. This keeps lum-ber uniform, and you WILL NOTHAVE TO MAKE EACH MEAS-UREMENT, MERELY USE THEGAUGE. This will speed up yourlumber making, give better work andit only takes minutes to make -Heres how to make a set-over gauge:Remember, since the chain travelsl/4 inch from the guide board ant1the saw kerf is usually about 3/8t:,inches wide, it is necessary to set the>guide board over 5/8th inch morethan the thickness of the lumberwanted. (l/4 plus 3/8th). For exam-ple, if you want to saw boards 1 inchthick, you must set the guide boardover I-5/8th inches; for 2 inchplanks, 2-5/8th inches.

To make a gauge to do this set-overfor thicknesses of 3/4th, 1 inch, 1%inches, and 2 inches, do the follow-ing: Take 3 pieces of wood, 2 incheswide, 3/4th inch thick, and the fol-lowing lengths:One piece - 7 inches long;One piece - 10 inches long;One piece - 5% inches long.Next, place the 10 inch length be-tween the other two pieces, and ad-just the 7 inch length so one end isl-5/8th inches from the end of the10 inch length. The other end will beI-3/8th inches from the end.Next, adjust the 5% length on the 10,so one end is 2-5/8th inches. Theother end will be 2-1/8th. Mark witha pencil.Next, clamp all three pieces together,and fasten by nailing, glueing, orwith screws. You now have a set-overgauge. Use the appropriate measureto determine where to set the guideboard for the thickness you want.Below is a picture of this set-overgauge -

Use the appropriate end to set theguide board over from a sawed side.

PULLEY HOOK-UPWhen making lumber, and otherthings as well, you can lighten yourwork and make lumber making easierwith a simple pulley hook-up madeon the guide board, to move the sawinto the log. You will also have bet-ter control over both the saw and the

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log. The first picture shows the hook-up made with a single pulley. When sized timbers only are process-ed from logs, good lumber is some-times -wasted. With LUMBER/MAK-ER it is easy to square out anysize log, large or small, to get themost available lumber. Use a squareand level. Heres how -

By pulling on the free end of the ropewhile the saw is under power youforce the saw into the log, making itcut better. If you like, you may use2 single pulleys to exert more pres-sure with less effort. The picturebelow shows this hook-up.

To square out the cant always start at thesmallest end of the log.

You can also use two double pulleysto bring st ill more pressure on thesaw, as in the picture below.

Besides allowing you to move the sawinto the log easier, the hook-up letsyou have better control over theactual cutting. You can select thebest cutting angle and hold it whilesawing. Another big advantage of thepulley hook-up is processing smalllogs or sawing off the last board. Ifyou do not use it you will have toblock the log to keep it from mov-ing, but when using the pulleys, thelog does not move or shift, becauseyou are pulling one end of the guideboard against the other. The pulleyhook-up is easy and inexpensiveto make.

Plac,e the outside angle of the square justinside the edge then level and mark bothoutside edges with a crayon or heavy pencil.

Next finish the squaring. Be sure no cornerfalls outside the wood.8


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This picture shows the completed square.

Measure the sides and write the measuresdown, then

Transfer this square using these measure-ments to the other end of log. Use thelevel to true.

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Next fasten the guide board square to theoutside line. Use the square for this,shown. You are now ready to saw.

If you prefer, use a cleat across the end tosupport the guide board. It can be adjust-ed to clear - keep level.

After you see the size of the cantyou have, you can process it intowhatever size lumber you want, orwhat is allowed by size of the cant.

ALTERNATE NUT-BOLTMCWNTINGWhen sawing is continuous with theLUMBER/MAKER, where largeheavy saws are to be used, or whenyou do not wish to change the posi-tion of the LUMBER/MAKER onthe chain bar, you can mount it inone position with nuts and bolts, in-stead o f using set screws. Nuts andbolts for this mounting come in the


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parts bag. Two pilot holes are pro-vided in one side of the clamp, tolocate the place to drill and guide thebit. This allows this mou ::ing to bemade easily and accurately.Do use a good l/4 steel cutting bitto make this mounting.Below is a picture of the LUMBER/MAKER with the bolts and nutsin the clamp.

The suggested way to make thismounting follows:1) Remove the gear housing andchain from the saw. Leave the chainbar on,2) Slide the chain bar as far backtoward the power unit as it will go,and tighten the nuts to hold it.3) Install the LUMBER/MAKERon the saw where you want it formaximum use. and tighten the set

screws. Be certain to check to seethat the bar rails are not pinched.4) Remove the shoe from theLUMBER/MAKER, leaving theshaft and clamp in place. Take aI& steel drill, hand or electric, andusing the two pilot holes as guides,drill into the chain bar enough toscore it. Do not try to drill throughsince you might damage the drill tipif you hit the set screws.

5) Take the clamp and shaft offthe cnain bar and finish drilling themounting holes.6) Re-assemble the LUMBER/MAKER, and using, the bolts andnuts, mount it to the chain bar.

Thin nose pliers or tweezers help tohold the nut while starting the bolt.Below is a picture of the LUMBER/MAKER mounted with bolts andnuts, properly positioned on the bar.

Using the LUMBER/MAKER toHelp You Trininemove Large

The LUMBER/MAKER can be usedto help trim and remove large limbs.Place the guide board against the treetrunk to act as a guide for the saw,and nail. Then place the ladder soyou can handle the saw while it isriding the guide board.

On large limbs, first undercut, thentop cut. This drops the limb so itdoes not rip the bark, makes a cleancut, to promote healing. It allows forsafely handling the saw, easier too.The pictures below show, first theguide board fastened in position,next the undercut being made, thenthe final cut using the guide boardto steady and support the saw.

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By us~rlq the LUMBE ~/MA KE R iotfelling, ~lfid followlr,y ttiti dbovr pro-cedure, the saw will not !)lnd. It WIIIallow thr operatot- to V;/or k irl iullview of whats happening, and till1allow a very COP .,rtable position forthe operator. LUMBER/MAKERleaves practically no stump, addinqwhat used to he cons~derecl waste tothe log. LUMBER/MAKER ic easier,faster and sa fer. One man can d3 it.Large trees can be easily handled,less accllferlts w111 happen, a11d theoperator never WOI ks blind.

Use Your LUMBER/MAKER ToHelp You Fell Trees

1To fell trees easily, safely, get morelumber, and not leave an unsightlySIUF,;P, do it this way:Make your fellings wedge cut as lowas you can, then place a guide boardon the opposite Fide, horirontally, sothe saw will cut a couple of inchesatJove the knife polrlt of the weclqe.Adjust the LUMBER/MAKER on thesaw 50 thr saw will cut only deepenough to cause the tlee to fall. Intrl s manner you WIII have perfectccritrol.If wedges WIII t,e necessary to kerpthe cut from closing, saw rhc ~;~c-lt:s fthe cut first, Ieavtng the center Intact,and drive in the wedges. Sa~v the cen-ter of thf, cut last.


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comes to you fully assembled.

PARTS LIST AND USESA -Shoe, rides the guide board, laps J - Locking nut, hex, 1 x 3/8ths cen-

both sides for stability. ter 24 NFT, locks saw in any position,B -Stop bracket, for adjusting to backs off for free rotation.2 x 4s etc., adjusts down to 1. K -Slotted nut, takes up shaft play,C -Knurled speed bolts to lock helps locking nut hold better whenbracket tight. turned in against it.D -I Kep self locking nuts, tighten L -Cotter key, keeps slotted nut fromtight without holding C bolt turning.head with a wrench. M -Shaft, supports saw, allows forE -Set screw key (shipped in parts bag). rotation.F -Special set screws, with hardened N -Clamp, Pearlitic, holds shoe squareto saw.tips, 3 in clamp, two in parts bag,5/l 6ths - 18. 0 -Pilot holes for permanent mount-G -Tapered pin, ing, if wanted.H -Washer, 1 dia, 3/8ths center hole. P -Bolt & nut for permanent mount-ing, X-20 (Two each needed, ship-I - Rail holes, threaded, for tighteningLUMBER/MAKER fast to the guideboard to sharpen, start, etc. Makesa portable vise.

ped in parts bag).

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LUMBER/MAKING HELPFULHINTS - COMMON SENSE TIPS

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Parts Bag: The picture below illustrates thisThe parts bag that comes with eachLUMBER/MAKER has bolts and nutsfor the alternate mounting, the keyto turn the set screws, and two extraset-screws. These screws are special,not generally available in hardwaresand should be placed in a secureplace.

TOOLS NEEDED 10 to 15 Top Plate Filing Angle. 15 Hook Side Plate Angle.The tools necessary to use the LUM-BER/MAKER are basic, a hammer,nails, rule, square, level, wrenches,pliers, etc. A NAILPULLER is a prac-tical must. Plunger type is recom-mended.

USING THE LUMBER/MAKER TOHELP START, SHARPEN, REPAIRThe LUMBER/MAKER allows youto easily sharpen the chain in thefield, so you can keep it sharp. There. . . . . . .

THE CHAIN SAWAs with any cutting tool, the sawchain must be sharp and well jointedto work properly. The same numberof teeth should be on each side, andthey should be the same length. Ifyour chain is improperly jointed, itwill lead the saw, and not saw in astraight line, with or without theLUMBER/MAKER. It is not neces-sary to use a special ripping chainwith the LUMBER/MAKER, sinceyou can cut with the grain by tiltingthe saw, the easiest and least dulling.The depth gauges can be lowered toallow the cutters to bite in and useall the power of the saw.If your LUMBER/MAKING is a con-tinuous thing, you might wish to re-duce the angle of the cutters to 10 to15 degrees instead of the usual 35,for more direct cutting. Likewise thebevels on the teeth will not dull asfast if that angle is 10 degrees or so.Most of the cutting with the LUM-BER/MAKER will be with the grain,but on occasion it will be necessaryto end cut. The shorter angle on thebevel will prove least dulling, andmake for fastt;r. smoother, cutting.

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are two threaded holes In the shoerail sides. These take the same thread-ed screws the clamp does. Two extrasare provided. These screws and holeslet you lock tile LUMBER/MAKERtight into the guide board when itis on the chain bar, so you can easilysharpen the chain, or start or repaira balky saw in the field. This opera-tion turns the LUMBER/MAKER in-to a portable vise; use the large HexLocking-nut to hold the bar fast;just tighten it on the shaft.In the pictures below, the first oneshows the LUMBER/MAKER lock-ing the saw down for starting. Thenext picture shows the saw lockeddown with the LUMBER/MAKERfor sharpening.


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A hint on saw use:Since the drive sprocket pulls thechain arc,ti;,d the chain bar, leastwear and rr9- 1 efficient cutting is al-ways tio:~ ur,ng the under side, thatsidp oeiriq ,*rosest to the sprocket.NEVER use the top side with a loosechain.LOCKING NUT

The large tiex-locking nut on theshaft has other uses besides holdingthe chain bar fast for sharpening, etc.It lets you lock the saw into the besttilt or cutting angle for smoother,faster sawing; you can also preciselylimit how deep you cut, by rockingsaw angle in.Also when using the LUMBER/MAK-ER, you will want to use your sawfor all other operations, such as trim-ming branches off, bucking, etc. Withthe locking nut, you can keep theLUMBER/MAKER out of the waywhen doing these operations by put-ting the shoe in a vertical positionand tightening the nut, to hold itthere. The picture below shows theLUMBER/MAKER locked out of theway on the saw, so it will not iliter-fere with other chain saw operations.

For more positive hold, tighten thelocking nut, then remove the cotterpin and tighten the slotted nut fastagainst it. To release the locking nutso the Fhtie rotates freely on theshaft, reverse the procedure.GUIDE BOARDS

Guide boards should be selected withcare, and only straight true ones everused. Crooked boards make crookedlumber. Keep them dry so they willnot swell out of fit. If you oil themor paint them for protection againstmoisture, oil or paint both sides andends.Many LUMBE R/MAKER users fastenangles of iron or aluminum on theguide board edges making them morerigid.One inch thick guide board may, ofcourse, be used instead of 2 inchthick ones, especially on a flatsurface.

SETTING THE GUIDE BOARDThe guide board should never becramped or twisted. Shear off allstubs and branches with the saw be-fore settir!!, the guide board. If itdoesnt lay flat, place shims to raiseto true position.When fastening the guide board to the log for the first cut, be sure tonail it so it will not twist. Nail oppositeedges firm to hold.You may predrill guide boards forfaster nailings and easier removal.Countersink holes and use washersunder nail heads, then pry from under-neath. Three holes across, every 18or so works well. A sample is below:

SPLITTING LARGE CANTSWhen cants are large, and the lumberyou want is smaller, faster sawing canbe done if the cant is split before


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processing. If the cant is 12 inchesthick, and you want 6 widths, splitit into 2 x 6s, since you can thenhold the saw at a better angle tosaw through, allowing it to whittlerip, instead of end cut, and saw atleast twice as fast; less dulling too.POLE %ARN POLES

The LUMBER/MAKER has provento be very useful in making polebarns. Poles are trued on onrr side,easy with the LUMBER/M/#IER.Heres how:Place the pole on horse? ct blocksfor easier handling. Nail tire guideboar,d in a position Fo renlove a clearslab. Then saw it off ;The pulleyhook-up helps here; keqs the log orpole stable). To angle Y corner cut,just take another cu? with the guideboard set on the su :tice first sawed,or process like timt:sr.

SAWING ODD SIZESMany times clltt smaller than 4 x 4are called for . Frjr instance, 2 x 2 or3 x 3, very useful in the turninglathe. You can cut these sizes easy.Heres how:Use guide boards l/2 less in sizethan the size to be cut. If 3 x 3s arewanted, use a guide board 2% wide.Adjust- the stop bracket to the guideboard by using appropriate holesand siots.The11 proceed with your sawing thesame as making a 4 x 4.

SAWING THE LUMBER TOLENGTH WITH THELUMBER/MAKERIn a previous section, a thicknessgauge was discussed, to keep thethickness of the lumber uniform, soit will join and cover easy withoutwaste. This gauge makes it unneces-sary to use a rule to set the guideboard over for thickness. It is like-wise advisable to saw the lumber tolength, keeping the lengths uniform

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so it will not be necessary to re-sawfor length.When lengtr\s are uniform, the lum-ber is more readily usable in con-struction projects, end is also moresaleable. You can easily saw lumberto length time and again, always thesame length with a To Length jig.It is simple to make. Heres how tomake this jig for 8 feet length:I) Take a 2 x 6 and hand saw it,making it 95% in&p: long, instead offull 96 (8 feet). Trr~s allows for thel/2 inch distance between guideboard and saw kerf, then2) Nail other 2 x 6 pieces at exactright angles across the ends to act asa guide. Since this jig so made, willrepeat the same length time arJ timeagain, it is important to be accurate.You msy, of course, use a 2 x 4 tomake the jig instead of a 2 x 6. Thepicture below shows the jig, madewith a 2 x 4 and placed on a log, tosaw to length.1 I .__. .-. z&To length jigs for any length wantedcan be made in the same manner.

SAWING A LOG TOAPPROXIMATE LENGTHTo reduce a log to approximatelength wanted, do this:1) Place the to length jig on thelog and nail fast.2) Saw off one end only, then re-move the jig, and advance it 4 ormore inches down the log, renail,then saw off the other end, using theLUMBER/MAKER to ride the end ofthe jig. This will give a log longerthan the cant wanted, but will g ivevery little waste.

TO SAW THE CANTTO LENGTH DO THIS -1) Place a regular guide board onthe log and saw off one slab.2) Turn the sawed side up, replace


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the guide board, then saw off an-other slab.3) Either continue squaring out,before setting the jig, or set it now.Set the jig with the guide board flushto a sawed edge, and saw off the ends,using the ends of the jig for guides.T!;is procedure is pictured below:

SAWING PARALLEL ENDS,ANGLES, BRACES WITH THELUMBER/MAKERIn the previous section we showedhow you can saw parallel ends onlogs and cants with a To Lengthjig. This was mainly to reduce logsand cants to a certain uniformlength to increase their usefulness,and longer lengths was illustrated.Of course the same jig can be madeto be used on smaller and shorterlogs. The picture below shows asmaller jig being used for this purpose.

A stop has been placed on the abovejig so the log will be kept as straightas possible.Many other LUMBER/MAKER usersfind another type jig more to theirliking because the same jig permitsangles and braces to be sawed as well

as parallel ends. It is made from 3/4plywood. Pick out a corner of thesheet to make this jig, for perfectsquareness, then -1) Process this 3/4 piece owood into a square or rectanglewidth and length of yourchoosing.

If ply-, withown2) Nail 2 guide boards, 1 x 4 sug-gested, flush along the edges, andadjust LUMBER/MAKER stop brack-et to fit.

The jig made in this manner is pic-tured below:

If a piece of 2 x 6 is nailed parallelwith the end, it will hold the jig on thelog in the best position for straight-ness. The picture below shows this:

Next place this on the log, nail, thensaw off both ends, as illustratedbelow:

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This makes a log that will standstraight up, and of certain predeter-mined length for table legs, sun dials,etc. The log shown below standsstraight and true.

_I.-c. f

.,-), ,.+-..

-, -a,il. A.

, ...

Th,is jig can be used on both logs andtimbers to saw parallel ends. It canalso be used to saw angles for braces,by putting additional pieces of 1 x 4across the ends for guides, The pic-ture below shows the jig altered ac-cordingly, and placed on the log atan angle to saw a brace:

With this jig in place, saw off the logends to get the brace shown below:

If the same jig is fastened on the logat an angle, instead of square, theends will still be parallel, but the logcan be used at an angle, as shown inthe picture below:

With the additional guides across theends, the jig can be used for sawing abrace with a side angle and parallelends, in either a round or a square.The picture below shows the jigpositioned on a timber to saw a pairof parallels, and a side angle as well.

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The three pictures below show bracessawed in the above manner with achain saw LUMBER/MAKER andsome uses of them.

MORE HINTS ON SAWINGTECHNIQUESWhen using the LUMBER/MAKER,be sure it always rides flat on theguide board, watch to see that itdoesnt ride out of the kerf. If saw-ing is less than a full cut, be sure tokeep enough pressure on the saw tosee that it doesnt ride out.Since the LUMBER/MAKER rotateson a shaft, adjust to log diameter bytilting the saw, an exclusive featurein the LUMBER/MAKER.Where possible and without wastinglumber, saw both parallel sides ofthe cant without resetting the guideboard, another LUMBER/MAKERexclusive.Use short lengths of guide board forsetting to saw angles, and make jigs.Keep chips and sawdust out fromunder guide boards when setting, forbest results.

CROSS CUTTING WITH THELUMBER/MAKERRound pieces cross cut from logs havemany uses if properly cut. They canbe used for walks, patio blocks,steps, table tops, signs, etc. When cutfreehand with a chain saw, it is al-most impossible to keep them uni-form in thickness, to get good usefrom them. Walks are high or lowand the patio blocks must be leveledand built up, Yet, when rounds arecut with the LUMBER/MAKER theycan all be kept a uniform thickness,proving most valuable. A simple jigdoes it. Heres how:

1) Take a piece of 3/4 plywood,6 to 12 wide, 18 or so long, andnail square to a 2 x 6, 18 to 24long. These sizes are optional.2) Saw the 2 x 6 to 5% incheswide, so it will fit the LUMBER/MAKER shoe, and act as a guide.The jig will look like this:

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An angle may be fastened into thejig, making it more stable, if youlike. The picture below shows this:

3) Nail the side of the jig into theend of the log, with the guide boardresting on top.

4) Cut the rounds using the guideboard.

This gives rounds 6 inches thick,ideal for more purposes. If you wantrounds thicker, or thinner, alter thejig to saw them.

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Rounds are very useful for makingtable tops and bases:

Pedestal Signs

Stair Steps

Patio Stones

Walks, Curved or Straight

Logs first cross cut at an angle, thenjig cut, make very attractive signs,bases, plaques, etc.

The base rounds on the table abovewere sawed with a rounds jig, angleset, the legs with a to-length shownon lower LH picture on page 16.To use the rounds with stair rails,saw parallel sides in the log beforesawing the rounds.

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SAWING SPECIALSNatural or rustic edged boards arevery attractive for fences, gates, etc.,and you can saw them easy withthe LUMBER/MAKER, using logsthat would otherwise be wasted orburned for firewood. Heres how:

I) Place cleats across the log endsfor the guide board to rest on, or benailed to, and level them. If the topof the log is real rough, first nail theguide board directly to the log andsaw off a slab to get a good surfaceto work on, then nail cleats. The pic-ture below shows the log with 2 x 6cleats nailed across the ends.

2) With the guide board on the logand fastened to the cleats, saw offboards. The picture below shows thefirst siab being taken off.

3) Saw up the log into boardswith natural edges, then use any wayfor the rustic ef fect. Below are pic-tured two boards from the logs toshow how they look in a fence.___ .-,._l __

(3

SPLICING TIMBERSAn excellent job can be done splicingtimbers in the field with a chain sawLUMBER/MAKER. A jig is used anda lap joint is made for the splice.In using this jig, the saw-out for thelap will always be exactly the same,always matching for both joiningends, very important for a goodsplice. Be sure both timber ends aresquare. First, make the jig. Hereshow:

1) Make the jig the same way asthe jig used in sawing rounds, as illus-trated below. The face board shouldbe twice as wide as the timber isthick. (a 6 timber should have a12 face board).

2) Next, fasten a guide beard forthe LUMBER/MAKER flush withone end, as shown in picture below:

3) Place the jig so made on theend of one timber and fasten. Resetthe LUMSER/MAKER on the chainbar, and tilt the saw so it will sawl/2 way through the timber. Usethe locking nut to lock it into posi-tion to do so. The picture belowshows this:

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4) Repeat the cut on the matingtimber. To make the rip cut, make aripping jig by placing a short 2 x 6 atright angles to the other kerf so itwill rip out l/2, counting kerf -then saw.QUARTER SAWING

Using the same set up as for thefence boards, a Tog may be easilyprocessed into Quarter Sawedlumber, in effect reviving a lost art,where the fine edge grain of lumberis accented for furniture and im-portant wooden articles, for bothstrength and beauty. Heres how:

1) Place the cleats across the logends, to support the guide board.Level them. This is illustrated undersawing specials on previous page.2) Using the diameter of the logat the smallest end, divide it into 3equal parts.

3) Set the guide board to saw theoutside slabs first, then saw them off.4) Saw the center section of the

log into boards or other size thick-

nesses you might want. This makesmost all grain showing edge grain.5) Next, turn the slabs, a sawedside up, and place the guide boardto use the centers only, sawing againat right angles to the grain, and saw-ing boards, etc. This g ives goodrough workshop quarter sawn lumber.

SPLITTING LOGS INTO 2EQUAL PARTSMany LUMBER/MAKER users wishto split logs into two equal parts fordecorative siding, both inside andoutside, for picnic table tops, withthe smooth side up, the bark sidedown, for settees and a host of otheruses. While you might get two usablepieces by using cleats on the log endsto support the guide board, and mak-ing the saw kerf come exactly downthe center, most times you wont be-cause of variation in the logs, diffi-culty to get an exact set to center,etc.To get two usable pieces from a log,each of same thickness and width,do this:1) Place cleats across log ends tosupport guide board.

2) Set guide board to saw of? aslab at leas-2 4 inches wide and saw itoff.3) Saw off slab on the oppositeside in the same manner.4) Remove cleats, turn log a saw-ed side up and re-set cleats level, oreven with sawed edge at both ends.5) Using a square set the guideboard so you will not saw more thanl/2 of the log, counting saw kerf. Besure to set the guide board in thesame distance at each end, then saw.This gives two pieces of equal widthand thickness from a log, one sidenatural.

Of course, if you want the thickness22


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the same each time, set the guideboard in a preidetermined distanceeach time,SIDING BOARDS - SHELVING

When siding, shelving boards haveone natural edge, they are very attrac-tive giving a most natural or rusticlook. Sometimes siding boards aremachine made in this manner. Al-ways at a premium, but still lookmanufactured. They are easy to getwith the LUMBER/MAKER. Havingthe hidden edge trimmed straight,usually makes for a better, tighterlap. As with fencing boards, they canbe made with lumber that otherwisemight be wasted, adding dollars toyour pocket.The picture below shows naturaledge siding:

Boards made for fencing can also beused for siding, They can also besplit, to provide narrower boards,with two rustic edges from eachboard.Siding, shelving, with one straightedge is easy to make with the LUM-BER/MAKER, and lap better whenusing lap siding. Heres how:

1) Fasten the guide board to thelog to slab off about a fourth of thelog, and saw it off, then2) Turn a sawed side up, and re-set the guide board to slice off boards,and saw them off. This makes theboards have one straight edge, theother natural, or rustic.

Use the LUMBER/MAKER to make:Mantels PostsDoors Road GradersCar Ramps Store Display RacksSwings Butcher BlocksHall Trees Feed BoxesFlooring Pallets and SkidsPicnic Tables Hat RacksBeams Hog ChutesInside Paneling Retaining WallsFirewood Rack House Moving TimbersWalks Truck Bed LumberSteps Mine PropsStairs Root CellarsPlant Stands Duck BlindsSupport Poles Fishing CabinsRafts Lean-TosPilings BridgesTree Houses RailingsFences Covered BridgesGates Storage BinsCabins Boat LaunchesCompost Boxes SignsFoundation Forms DecksTables Lamp PostsHoists Mail BoxesFence Sty Mail Box PostsLog Ladder ChairsFoot Stools Teeter BoardsBenches Post PullersPicture Frames WagonsPlanters TrailersDesks Turning SquaresCounters ShelvesCabinets PiersPlay House Tool BoxesDiving Boards IViachine StandsPorches Work BenchesCrates Magazine RacksTool Sheds Sand BoxesPartitions Toy BoxesBookcases Dog HousesWindow Boxes LampsFlower Stakes Saw HorsesCorn Cribs Fruit Tree PropsA Frame SledsRailroad Ties Rustic SidingCar Ports Block IceBar Tops Rustic Coffee TablesWooden Building Garage FloorsAnchors Horizontal Siding forSettees an inside wallCar Stops Coat Racks

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SIMPLE LOG CABIN CONSTRUCTIONUSING THE CHAIN SAWLUMBER/MAKER(Cross and Filler Type Canstruction)

Log cabins are easily built with thechain saw LUMBER/MAKER. Thebasic idea consists of slabbing offlogs to equal thicknesses and thencutting to predetermined lengths.LUMBER/MAKER will allow youto use all sizes of logs, in sets of four,in your cabin construction.Furthermore, one position of the

guide board permits slabbing off 2sides of the log without resetting orchanging. Cross and filler construc-tion means that courses of logs arelaid, one atop the other, with twofiller logs butting into two cross logs,altering position for each course.Short logs may be pieced in as fillers.The picture below illustrates howthis is done.

FILLER LOGCROSS MEMBER L

To begin building a cabin, it isnecessary to have certain supplieson hand such as:1. A series of guide boards, if youplan to use all sizes of logs inthe cabin,2. A to length jig, described be-low, for each length size of fillerlog.3.

4.5.

A.sphalt roofing cement, (or othercaulking may be used.)A winch to pull the cross logstight against the fillers. tSpikes or sharpened iron rods todrive through, fastening fillers tothe cross logs, crosses to eachother, etc.

6. Shingles to shim and level.7. Usual assortment of hand tools.8. Chain saw and LUMBER/MAKER.

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PROCEDLIRE1. Slab off the logs on two sides,using the appropriate guide board(2x4, 2x6, 2x8, 2x10, or 2x12).2x4s and 2x6s fit the LUMBER/MAKER without alteration; 2x8s,2x10s, and 2x 12s are altered byadding a 1% inch strip on theedges as a guide and adjust thestop bracket in the LUMBER/MAKER to fit the edge strip, thentighten as shown in picture below:


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Using the modified guide board,slab off the logs in the usual manner.2x10s and 2x 12s are altered thesame way as 2x8s.When you slab off, take care in set-ting the guide board so that the slab-bed sides are as equal as possible.This is controlled by the position ofthe guide board atop the log. To getthe best position for the guide boardthat will produce best matche sides,use a short length of the guie - boardas a pattern on dach end ?B:d afterfastening in position, pu*


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with driven spikes sunk through afterthe cross logs have been pulled tightinto the fillers at the corners. Followthis procedure until the entire cabinis built. Holes may be drilled, slightlysmaller than the nails or s$kes, foreasier driving. Other ways to joinmay also be used.SAWING IN DOORSAND WINDOWS

When it becomes necessary to saw ina door or a window, use a 2x6 guideboard, placing it directly at the leftof the right hand cut of the door orwindow in a true perpendicularposition. Advance the saw into andthrough the logs by holding it tightagainst the guide board and rockingit through, under power. Hold hardto prevent saw climbing out. Sawup and down through the logs. Afterthe right side is completed move theguide board over to the left side andsaw through. The logs will drop outwhen this procedure is completed.

Windows are sawed in the same man-ner, placing the guide board horizon-tally to make the horizontal cuts.Make the top horizontal first.The roof can be made either flat orgable. Roof over with board andbatten, or any other favored method.You may wish to have the inside ofyour cabin rough sawn smooth. Youcan do this easily with yourLUMBER/MAKER.After the log sides have been slabbedparallel, blace the guide board atopa sawed side and saw off the thirdside. This makes the squaring cut de.-scribed under 3 above unnecessary.

26

Take care to keep the width uni-form. On the filler logs, be sure to dothis BEFORE they are sawed tolength with the to length jig, tokeep the ends square.You might wish to use another jigto saw this third side off. Make it bynailing a stop lengthwise along theguide board. The picture belowshows the stop fastened to the guideboard, and on the log.

Then proceed to saw off this side. Thepicture above shows the side sawed off.

Using this jig lets you match the outsideof the logs better, as shown in the pic-ture above.


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HERES A LIST f HOW TO ITEMS AND WHERE TO FIND THEM:

Fasten a 2x4 guide board to a log. ........................ .2Adjust the LUMBER/MAKER to a 2x4 guide. ................ .2Mount the LUMBER/MAKER on the chain saw with set screw ..... .2Makea4x4timber ................................... .3Adjust LUMBER/MAKER for a 2x6 guide board. ! ............. .3Making a 6x6 timber ................................. .4Use 2x8,2x10,2x12, as guide board. ...................... .4Alter the LUMBER/MAKER for using 2x8,2x10, and 2x12 asguide boards. .................................... .5Makelumberinahurry ............................... .5Saw 2x6 from 6x6 timbers ............................. .5Sawboardsfromacant ............................... .6Handle large logs and problem logs ........................ .6Make a set-ever gauge. ................................ .7Make a pulley hook-up. ............................... .7Squareoutalogforlumber ............................. .8Mount the LUMBER/MAKER to chain bar using bolts and nuts. .... .9Use the LUMBER/MAKER to remove large limbs .............. 10Use the LUMBER/MAKER to help fell trees. ................. 11Find the usage and letters for parts. ....................... 12Find whats in the parts bag. ............................ 13Find what tools you need. ............................. 13Sharpen the saw chain for ripping. ........................ 13Use the LUMBER/MAKER for Starting, Sharpening, Repairing ..... 13Use the locking nut ................................. .I4Select guide boards .................................. 14Treat guide boards. ................................. .14Use angles on guide boards ............................ -14Set the guide board ................................. .14Split large cants. ................................... .I4Process Pole Barn poles. .............................. .15Saw odd sizes, turning lathe. ........................... .15Saw lumber to length. ............................... .15Make a to length jig ............................... .I5Sawalogtolength ................................. .I5Sawacanttolength ................................. .l5Saw parallel ends. .................................. .I6Saw angles and braces. ............................... .16Make a plywood parallel end jig. ......................... 16Use the plywood parallel jig for angle parallels ................ 17Use the plywood jig for braces. ......................... .I7Keep the pressure so saw doesnt ride out. ................... 18Adjust to log diameters. .............................. .18Saw parallel sides without re-setting the guide board ............ 18Make precision rounds ............................... .I8Makearoundsjig .................................. .18Use rounds for a table top. ....................... 19Use rounds for a pedestal sign : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : 20Use rounds for stair steps ............................. .20

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Use rounds for patio stones. ............................ .20Use rounds for-walks .................................. 20Use rounds for table bases. ............................. .20Use cleats to support guide board ......................... .21Saw rustic edge siding boards. ........................... .21Splice timbers, make a jig .............................. .21Quartersaw........................................2 2Split logs into equal parts .............................. .22Saw and use siding boards. ............................. 23Find an item to make. ................................ .23Make a cross and filler log cabin, ......................... .24Determine tools and supplies needed to make a cabin. ........... .24Modify the guide board for 2x8,2x113, and 2x12 parallels. ........ .24Set the guide board for the best parallels .................... .25Make a Ito length jig ................................ .25Saw square for the cross seat ............................ .25Pull the cross logs together ............................. .25Assemble cross logs and filfer logs. ........................ .25Join cross logs and filler logs ............................ .25Saw doors and windows in cabin ......................... .26Make a aside to saw three sided cabin logs ................... -26Use a guide to maintain cabin wall thickness. ................. -26Use a guide to have a finished wall for inside cabin. ............. .26Use a guide to saw two sets from one log for a cabin ............ .26Find suggestions for a project ........................... .23Find where to order a LUMBER/MAKER ................... .28

For further information, current pricing, how to order, etc., write:HADDON TOOL4718 W. Route 120McHenry, IL USA60050

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chain saw and the lumber maker

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