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California Colors: Experiences with Native

Plant Dyeing

Barbara Sattler and Connie Vadheim

South Coast Chapter – CNPS

October 6, 2014

California natives: so much to attract us

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Hopi dyes: cotton &

basketry fibers

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http://www.adobegallery.com/art/hopi-third-mesa-wicker-groom-s-plaque

Navajo dyes: wool

© Project SOUND http://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/14211892_navajo-traditional-natural-dye-rug

http://www.navajoministries.org/news/NavajoDyeChart.htm

http://navajorug.com/blasts-from-my-past/

California Natural Dyes – the ‘lost’ traditions

are being ‘rediscovered’

Historical documents (a few)

Some traditions handed down – now being shared

Looking to other groups – California & Baja CA

Trying to duplicate artifacts

Creating sources of dye stuffs

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http://deborahsmall.wordpress.com/2009/11/22/gat

hering-deergrass/

http://blog.sfgate.com/inmarin/2009/10/01/last-opportunity-to-take-native-

american-skills-class/

Another source of inspiration….

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How do you get those colors?

The dyeing process: 4 main steps

1. Prepare the material to be colored

2. Prepare the dye-bath

3. Dye the material

4. Complete the after-dye processing

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Preparing the fiber/yarn: steps that help

the fiber take up the dye

Cleaning/ removing substances that prevent dyeing (grease; waxes; etc.) Washing

Stripping : heat, specific chemicals/substances, light exposure, other

Other physical preparations

Making the material more receptive to the dye, if needed

Wetting the material just prior to dyeing

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http://joyofhandspinning.com/how-to-

prepare-fiber-with-a-drum-carder/

http://stoneflake.net/explore/primitive-living/how-to/preparing-

yucca-fiber-from-dried-leaves/

What are mordants? Substances that improve uptake and/or retention of dye particles

From the French mordre, ‘to bite’. In the past, it was thought that a mordant helped the dye bite onto the fiber so that it would hold fast during washing.

Been used thousands of years

Two types: Chemical mordants; metallic salts

[alum; tin; iron, copper; chromium]

Plant mordants [tannins]

Not all dye/fiber combinations require a mordant

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http://www.chemical-engineering.co/2012/03/22/mordant/

Lemonadeberry leaves

Preparing the dye bath Collect the dye stuff Correct plant part

Time of year – often important

Prepare the dye stuff Chopping

Drying

Treating

Extract the dye

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http://sewserena.wordpress.com/2012/09/17/dyeing-yarn-and-fabric-with-rabbit-brush/

Let’s look at some of my favorite dye sources

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Rabbitbush – Ericameria nauseosa

Rabbitbush: a natural dyer’s delight

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Abundant

Easy to collect, use; can be stored

Good, durable dye

Lovely carotinoid pigment colors (yellows/gold/greens)

Nicely scented; non-toxic

Yellow-flowered Asteraceae: good starting dyes

Common in gardens

Need annual pruning

Can use both flowers, foliage

Easy to collect, use; can be stored

Good, durable dye

Lovely carotinoid pigment colors (yellows/gold/greens)

Nicely scented ; non-toxic © Project SOUND

California goldenrod

the Goldenbushes

Ericameria species

Parts of plants used for dyes

Flowers/flower buds

Seedpods

Seeds

Leaves

Stems

Roots

Bark

Root bark

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Leaves can produce extraordinary colors

Island ironwood - Lyonothamnus floribundus

bark a traditional source of black dye

?? Can a dye be obtained from the fallen leaves

Challenge: leaves are tough & leathery

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Why must dyes be ‘extracted’?

Location in plants Roots

Bark

Wood

Other interior tissues

Location in the cells Vacuole – water-soluble

pigments

Chromoplasts

Cell wall

Other

Have to do something to destroy well walls to release the pigment

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Ways to create bright dyes (wool yarn)

1. Use a 10:1 ratio of dyestuff to wool (by weight)

2. Crush/cut dry thick, leathery leaves

3. Begin extraction with heat (20-30 minutes)

4. Let dye bath rest at least 2-3 days

5. Use multiple extractions to get multiple pigments

6. To dye, use 20-30 min heat + 2-4 days soak (or solar dyeing for longer)

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Lyonothamnus leaves produce lovely

rusts and oranges

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Taking advantage:

trimmings, etc.

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Ponderosa pine (Pinus ponderosa)

Colorful inner bark

1-2” branches have thin outer bark

Needs time (year?) to separate bark easily

Stem and root bark pigments

Complex mix of ‘protective’ pigments:

Flavonoids – yellows

Anthocyanins – red/red-brown

Tannin – tan/brown (natural mordant)

Others

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Pines

Junipers

Willows/Poplars (Salix/Populus)

Cherries (Prunus)

Apples & pears

Releasing pigments from tough sources

Dry the bark

Cut, pound or pulverize it

Let it soak in water for a few days to several weeks

Boil it for several hours

Let the dye bath sit for days to weeks – stirred or not

Strain out the plant material and use

Apply heat Hot/boiling water

Steam

Microwave

Apply force Pound/grind

Let microorganisms do the work – fermentation

Or a combination of the above

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Tradition recipe for preparing

dye from a tree bark

Dye extraction requires patience

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Extra time = better, more even color

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Time to wash, rinse

& dry

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“I don’t knit; what can I do with dyed yarn?”

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To learn more, come to our artist’s receptions

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Don’t you wish you had more/brighter

colors?

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The natural dye colors are truly ‘California

Colors’

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Why tradition/natural dye traditions are

important They provide sources of eco-friendly

dyes for: Fabrics, leather, wood, etc.

Foods

Medicines and cosmetics

They provide important models for medicine & engineering

They help us understand plants better; focus our attention on both botany and uses of plants

They are part of our human heritage

They inspire modern artists & craftspeople

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http://www.sbnature.org/research/anthro/chumash/daily.htm#Baskets

Chumash baskets

http://www.navajoministries.org/news/NavajoDyeChart.htm