calcutta university, 1921 - preface]ipindiaservices.gov.in/gi_doc/612/612 - gi - annexure -...

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Rasagola has been associated historically and culturally with Odisha'sShree Jagannath Temple, Puri, ever since `bhoga' (offering) is offered. Shree Jagannath Temple was built in the 12th Century by King Anangabhimadeva, historically identified as Anangabhima III belonging to tlw Ganga Dynasty. Rasagola is a milk-based confectionery and Chhena' (Cottage-Cheese) is the main ingredient. Chhena in Odisha Chhena and Chhena-based sweetmeats have been prevalent in Odisha since time immemorial. Earliest literary evidence of Chhena and Chhena-based products is in the Odia Mahabharata of 15th Century by poet Sarala Das. The word Chhena and the delicacies made from it are also widely mentioned in the Odia Ramayana of 15th Century by poet Balaram Das and in many medieval Odia texts. Sarala Das is known as the `Adikabi' (first poet) of Odisha. According to the description in the 'Madhya Parba' of his Mahabharata, during the planning of dharma jajna, Arjuna brought Sri Krishna to I3arunabanta. Mother Kunti served them many Odia delicacies. Among these were Chhena and delicacies made of Chhena. In the same, Parbati cooked for Shiba. She prepared many dishes like Chakuli, Chhunchipatara (Odia pitha', a sweetmeat made with 'Chhena Khiri, Khirisa, Shakara etc using milk and Chhena: "Chakuli Chhunchipatara Chhena manohara Khiri Khirisa Shakara sakala draPya sagra" [ANNEXURE-1- Sarala Mahabharata, Matitiya Parba, Edited by Artaballava Mohanty, Page- 1135] Chhena, Chhena-based sweet and other foods of Odisha also find mention in GangaBansanuCharita Champu, an 18th Century Sanskrit text written by Basudeba Ratha Kabiraja. GangaBansanuCharita Champu was first published from palm-leaf manuscript by the Odisha State Tourism & Cultural Affairs Department, Govt. of Orissa, Bhubaneswar in 1979. Shloka (Verse)35 in the 3rd Chapter gives a description of many Chhena-based Pitha and Mitha (sweetmeats) viz.- *Mill, Sarapuli, Manda, Peyla, Saskuli, Enduri, Nadi, Kora, Kanti, Rasabali, Khaja, Karpura, Keli Bada, Khirisa, 4risa etc [ANNEXURE-2- GangaBansanuCharita Champu (18th Century text), Published by Odisha State Tourism & Cultural Affairs Department, Govt. of Orissa, Bhubaneswar, 1979, Edited by Pramila Mishra, Page-56] Apart from, these, many other literary works like works of Balaram Das, Abhimanyu Samantasinghara and Brajanatha Badajena etq.also have the references of Chhena. Sarala Das belonged to the period of reign of the Gajapati king of Odisha, Kapilendra Dev (1435-68) and his son Purusottam Dev (1468-97) of the sun dynasty. Balaram Das lived during

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Page 1: Calcutta University, 1921 - Preface]ipindiaservices.gov.in/GI_DOC/612/612 - GI - Annexure - A...followers all kinds of food and delicacies which included Dudha Chhena (cottage cheese

Rasagola has been associated historically and culturally with Odisha'sShree Jagannath Temple, Puri, ever since ̀ bhoga' (offering) is offered.

Shree Jagannath Temple was built in the 12th Century by King Anangabhimadeva, historically identified as Anangabhima III belonging to tlw Ganga Dynasty.

Rasagola is a milk-based confectionery and Chhena' (Cottage-Cheese) is the main ingredient.

Chhena in Odisha

Chhena and Chhena-based sweetmeats have been prevalent in Odisha since time immemorial.

Earliest literary evidence of Chhena and Chhena-based products is in the Odia Mahabharata of 15th Century by poet Sarala Das.

The word Chhena and the delicacies made from it are also widely mentioned in the Odia Ramayana of 15th Century by poet Balaram Das and in many medieval Odia texts.

Sarala Das is known as the `Adikabi' (first poet) of Odisha. According to the description in the 'Madhya Parba' of his Mahabharata, during the planning of dharma jajna, Arjuna brought Sri Krishna to I3arunabanta. Mother Kunti served them many Odia delicacies. Among these were Chhena and delicacies made of Chhena.

In the same, Parbati cooked for Shiba. She prepared many dishes like Chakuli, Chhunchipatara (Odia pitha', a sweetmeat made with 'Chhena Khiri, Khirisa, Shakara etc using milk and Chhena: "Chakuli Chhunchipatara Chhena manohara Khiri Khirisa Shakara sakala draPya sagra" [ANNEXURE-1- Sarala Mahabharata, Matitiya Parba, Edited by Artaballava Mohanty, Page-1135]

Chhena, Chhena-based sweet and other foods of Odisha also find mention in GangaBansanuCharita Champu, an 18th Century Sanskrit text written by Basudeba Ratha Kabiraja. GangaBansanuCharita Champu was first published from palm-leaf manuscript by the Odisha State Tourism & Cultural Affairs Department, Govt. of Orissa, Bhubaneswar in 1979. Shloka (Verse)35 in the 3rd Chapter gives a description of many Chhena-based Pitha and Mitha (sweetmeats) viz.- *Mill, Sarapuli, Manda, Peyla, Saskuli, Enduri, Nadi, Kora, Kanti, Rasabali, Khaja, Karpura, Keli Bada, Khirisa, 4risa etc [ANNEXURE-2- GangaBansanuCharita Champu (18th Century text), Published by Odisha State Tourism & Cultural Affairs Department, Govt. of Orissa, Bhubaneswar, 1979, Edited by Pramila Mishra, Page-56]

Apart from, these, many other literary works like works of Balaram Das, Abhimanyu Samantasinghara and Brajanatha Badajena etq.also have the references of Chhena. Sarala Das belonged to the period of reign of the Gajapati king of Odisha, Kapilendra Dev (1435-68) and his son Purusottam Dev (1468-97) of the sun dynasty. Balaram Das lived during

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1472-1550, during the reign of Purusottam Dev and Prataprudra Dev. Brajanath Badajena lived from 1730-1800 and Abhimanya Samantasinghara lived from 1760-1806.

Rasagola in Odia Literature The earliest reference of Rasagola is in the 1* 15th Century Odia Ramayana written, by Balaram Das. Balaram Das's Ramayana is known as Dandi Ramayana or Jagamohana Ramayana. In its `Ayodhya Kanda', there are ample descriptions of Chhena and Chhena-based products including Rasagola. • According to the description, after Rama left isor forest, Bharata and Satrughna went to bring him back and accepted the hospitality of sage Bharadwaj. Sage Bharadwaj served them and their followers all kinds of food and delicacies which included Dudha Chhena (cottage cheese prepared from milk) and the products from Chhena that he had served included Chhenapuri, Chhenaladu, Rasagola, and Rasabali. Balaram Das has written:

Hingu Jeera Maricha Nadia Dudha Chhena, Ghruta re kari nana pistaka rachana. Machha Mayensa je chhada jhada jana prati, Pana 13'aida je ani bale jachi dyanti Khiri Khirisa Shakara parasanti ani, Emanta aneka drabya ke pare bakhani Nadi Sarapuli je Arisa Chhenapuri, Kakam Chhenaladu je Malapua Puri Sajamara Ghia ani dyanti badha badha, Gaja Kachuri Panasa Khosa Biribara. Kora Rasagola je Amruta Rasabali Manda Nanmana Amrutapani Kadali.

[ANNEXURE-3- Balaram Das, Dandi Balmiki Ramayana, Edited by Pundit Govind Rath, Rath Press, Cuttack, 1912, Page-88]

Some claim that Sri Chaitanya had brought Chhena to Odisha from Bengal. But, this proves that Chhena existed in Odisha before Sri Chaitanya's0disha visit. The above quoted portion of Balaram Das's Dandi Ramayana has also found mention in Typical Selections from. Oriya Literature edited by B.C.Mazumdar in 1921.The same Chhena and Rasagola reference is in the Section I of Typical Selections frqm Oriya Literature that has a selection of Early Poems (1450-1568 A.D.) featuring ;the works of ancient Odia poets. [ANNEXURE-4(A) B.C. Mazumdar(Ed.),Typical Selections from Odia Literature, Calcutta University, Calcutta, 1921, Page-4]

The editor of Typical Selections From Oriya Literature, B.C. Mazumdar, was a Lecturer in Comparative Philology, Anthropqlogy & Indian Vernacular in the Calcutta University. Different volumes of Typical Selections have been published by the University of Calcutta in 1921. In his Preface, B.C. Mazumdar has written: "It ought to be mentioned that the idea of bringing out typical selections from the literary works of various times and various provinces originated with Sir Asutosh Mukerjee, and it is at his initiative that these and similar other typical selections are being published by the Calcutta

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University. There is hardly any need to point out how these publications will stimulate and help research in the field of history and philology." [ANNEXURE-4(B)- B.C. Mazumdar(Ed.) Typical Selections from Odia Literature. Calcutta: Calcutta University, 1921 - Preface]

In his Foreword- 'Outlines of a scheme for the advanced study of the Indian Vernaculars' dated 29th June, 1918, Sir Asutosh Mookerjee, Chancellor of Calcutta University, has written: "The Selections will be made from sources published and unpublished, and manuscript materials will be utilized to the fullest extent desirable. The general plan of the volumes will be historical and critical, similar to that adopted for the Bengali Typical Selections, and I venture to entertain the hope that if the Selections are judiciously made, they will not only serve to illustrate linguistic and literary evolution, but will also help to illuminate many a dark corner of social, religious and administrative history." [ANNEXURE-4(C) Asutosh Mookerjee — Foreword, Typical Selections from Odia Literature. Calcutta: Calcutta University, 1921]

In Section II of his Introduction that describes 'The Early Poets', B.C.Mazumdar has written about Balaram Das: "What Balaram Das has stated of himself in the colophon portions of his Ramayana, justifies us in holding that he had composed his epic sometime before he was converted to Vaisnavism by Chaitanya Deva of Bengal. He was no doubt devoted to Jagannath of the Puri temple, and he says that he was inspired by the deity Jagannath to execute his poem... The poet says, he was thirty-two years old when he finished the epic and that he versified the whole story of the Ramayana as he learnt it from the narration of the Pandits. The whole poem was evidently recited by the poet ipy taking hi seat in the Jagamohana or the audience hall of the Puri temple, for the title of the boOk is Jagamghana Ramayana... Balaram became a disciple of Chaitanya in his, old age, and so it is likely that he commenced his literary career during the reign of Purusottama Deva. That after becoming a Viasnava of Chitanya's school he continued hiis literary ca)-eer in Pratapa Rudra's time is proved by some remarks regarding him in two Gupta Gitas which are not of much literary merit." [ANNEXURE-4(D) B.C. Mazumdar(Ed.) Typical Selections from Odia Litergture. Calcutta: Calcutta University, 1921- Introduction, Pages- xxii-xxiv] The Typical Selections From Oriya Literature is also. available in the World e-book library. [ANNEXURE-5 World e-book library]

From this, it can be concluded that Balaram Das had completed writing his Dandi Ramayana half a century before Sri Chaitanya came to Odisl:ia. This means that Sri Chaitanya has not got Chhena from Bengal to Odisha as Chhena existed in Odisha prior to Sri Chaitanya's visit.

Acclaimed researcher Dr. Dipti Ray in her book, Prataprudra Deva- The last great Suryavamsi King of Orissa(1497 AD-1540 AD),. published by Northern Book Centre, New Delhi, has discussed the socio-economic life and food culture prevalent during Prataprudra's rule: "Milk was undoubtedly one of the principal items of diet. Various preparations of milk like Curd(Dahi), Butter(Lahuni), Cheese (Chhenq), Ghee as well as their combinations with rice, flour etc. were consumed."

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As per Dr. Ray's research, lots of Cheese-based sweets e.g. Rasagola, Chhenapuri, Chhenaladu were consumed during the daily meal at that time. [ANNEXURE-6 Dr. Dipti Ray, Prataprudra Deva- The last great Sugavamsi King of Orissa (1497 AD-1540 AD) published by Northern Book Centre, New Delhi, Pages-91 & 92]

Shri Fakir Mohan Senapati, father of modern cOdia Literature, contemporary to Bankim Chandra Chattopadhyay, has published a book, under a pseudonym,, based on his tour titled Utkal Bhramanam (Utkal Travels; Utkal refers to .0disha) in 1892. His first tour was published in February 1892 and the complete book was published in July 1892. The review of the said book was published in Utkal Deepika'dated August 27, 1892. [ANNEXURE-7 Fakir Mohan Senapati, Utkal Deep ika, Date-August 27, 1892, Page- I "Padhili padhili muhi Utkala Bhramana. Odiare bahi khande eka eku gana, Khata mitha sabu achhi Chuda Rasagola. Kiye ba Hoichhi Tahin Allah Bismullah.

English Translation I read and read Utkala Bhramana, One may count it as one of the most excellent Odia books. It has sour and sweet also Chuda (Flattened Rice) & Rasagola. One may see Allah and Bismullah in it.

This shows that in 1892, Rasagola was wellicnown and very much prevalent in Odisha.

It may be noted that this was, 4 years prior to Bengal's earliest literary evidence about Rasagola.In 1896, Rasikatamagazine (Part I, Page-30) published Rakhaldas Adhikari's poem, `Rasogolla ra, staba (Praises to Raspgolla)., A poem about Rasogolla had been written and published after the poet had eaten Rasogolla and provided its description in the poem.

However, Rasagola mention in a travelogue in Odia in 1892 wouldn't have been possible had the people not been well-acquainted with Rasagola by that time.

In December 14, 1893, a poem titled, 'Bali Jatra' was published in the weekly Indradhanu. As per information, the writer of the, poem, Damodar F'attanayak, belonged to a royal dynasty. His poem was a first-hand account of Cuttack's famous fair, Bali Jatra. [ANNEXURE-8- 'Bali Jatra', Indradhanu. Cuttack; 1893, Pagesi- 19-21]

The English Translation of the poem is: The sweetmeat's shop glitters It showcases Ladu, Rasagola, Barfi, Jalebi and Tejap' atra Podapistaka. It also has Kanahagola, Sarapuli, Malapua, Mohanbhogdand Lalrnohana. How much I can narrate, If one does not eat after seeing all this My tongue already drools The sweetmeat's wife, with a skimmer in hand, fries Puri and Kachori with, care.

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This shows that much before Rasagola had impressed a poet of Calcutta to writea poemon it, Rasagola was already a much-relished sweet in Bali Jatra, the huge historical fair of Odisha.

But, in the description of Kolkata's Calicut fair, Rasagola is absent even after the so-called "invention of Rasogolla" by Nabin Chandra

iDas. The literary evidence of this is found in the

narrative poem `Kalikata ra Mahamela' serialized in Utkal Dipikaweekly from 19th January till

19th April, 1884.

After the first issue, it was published under the title: 'Mela Darshan'. The national fair was held in 1883 between Durgapuja and Kalipuja. The then Viceroy of India, Lord Ripon had visited it. Though `Mela Darshan' has been 'written in a narrative manner under a pseudonym, it is no less a firsthand report on the fair. That fair was also attended by garjat kings of British India and special products found in different states were displayed there. Though there is detailed description of different kinds of sweets and condiments, there, is no mention of Rasagola. It indicates that the so-called "invention of :Bengal Rasogolla", even fifteen years after its "invention", was absent in the grand fair. People were not aware of "Nabin Chandra Dash's Rasogolla" in Bengal and it had not charmed people at large by that time.

[ANNEXURE-9- Kalikata ra Mahamela' serialized, in Utkal pipika since 19th January till 19th April, 1884, under the pseudonym `Mela Darsak']

Another evidence is a travelogue of Fakir Mohan Senapati. In his travelogue titled Waltier Darshan' that was published in Odia monthlyUtka/ Sahitya 7th Year 1st issue-1310-11 in 1904, Fakir Mohan mentions the Rasagolas of Odisha.

[ANNEXURE-10- Fakir Mohan Senapati, Waltier Darshan, Utkal Sahitya 7th Year 1st issue-1310-11, 1904]

"We didn't see any sweetmeats in Andhra. We were astonished to be served abundant quantity and excellent quality of Rasagolas, Kachori and Puri. They were prepared in the kitchen of Prince Vikram Deo (Of Jeypore, Odisha)."

Court Case of Barrister Madhusudan Das A book titled Utkal Gouraba Madhusitdan(litkala's pride Madhusudan) was published by

Utkal University in 1951. It was Written by Naba Kishore Das, a close associate of Madhusudan Das. In that, he has indicated: "Whatever is written in this book is based on archival papers etc. There is very little which is gathered from hearsay." The book has a foreword by Lt. Col. Chintamani Acharya, the Vice-Chancellor of Utkal University. In the book, an episqcle from Madhu babu's life as a lawyer in Odisha. High Court has been described.

Rasagola finds mention in the •descripOon of the court case that Madhusudan Das had fought. Madhubabu had questioncd a man of Madliti-baishya' (Sweet Confectioner) caste. [ANNEXURE-11- Naba Kishore Das, Utkal Gouraba Madhusudan, Bhubaneswar: Utkal University, 1951]

The description in English is as follows:'

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"Madhusudan- Brother, what's your name? I just forgot it. Witness- Barajananda Sahoo. Madhusudan- `Sahoo' means? Witness- Our caste is `Madhu-baishya'. Madhusudan- Now I understand you bOong to the family of renowned sweet confectioner

Kangali Sahoo. The witness looked at Madhusudan excitedly. Madhusudan knew this was the right chance: Look brother, you prepare sweets- Rasagola,

Mohanbhoga from many generations and sweeten tie mouth of people. That's why Odias and Bengalis speak such sweet words; why don't you utter a sweet word?

The witness lowered his face. After that whatever Madhusudan asked him, he burst out all truths happily. The judge too seemed amused. Madhusudan won the case."

This case was most probably in 1901-02, but the tradition of preparing Rasagola in the `Madhu-baishya' family goes back to his grandparents' days. If that was calculated as 70-80 years, then Rasagola was prepared by that 'family at least from 1820=30 i.e. nearly fifty years earlier than the so-called "inventiOn of Nabin Chandra Das".

It may be mentioned that apart from the sd-called "invention/birth of Rasogolla in Calcutta, Bengal, in .868", there is no evidence in this 'regard except a plaque erected in 1968 in K.C.Das's family home in Baghbazar, Calcutta, to commemorate the "centenary celebration of Rasagola invention". The plaque states:

The famous institution of the inventor of rossogolla, Mr Nobin Chandra Das, was located here. The institution was shut down by the order of the government banning production of milk sweets ,in 19.65. This stone inscription commemorates the centenary of the inVention of rossogolla: 1868-1968."

In an Odia Daily, Kalinga, its Editor, Surendra Mohanty, a Sahitya Akademi awardee, had contested this 'in his editorial.

[ANNEXURE-12- Kalinga, Surendra Mohanty, Date-14 April 1968]

Biswanath Ghosh, a journalist, also mentions the plaque and "inventor of Rasogolla" in his article in the Hindu newspaper:

"There is no historical evidence and there can never be one — to prove that the rossogolla originated in West Bengal, even though the K.C. Das family claims that it was 'invented' by their ancestor, Nobin Chandra Das, in erstwhile Calcutta. Their claim, in fact, is cast in stone. Their family home in Baghbazar bears a plaque. It must have taken countless trials and errors, spanning several decades if not a century or tvVo, before we got the first flawless rossogolla. To say that Nobin Chandra Das invented it would be as good as saying that Baba Ramdev introduced yoga in India." [ANNEXURE-13 Biswanath Ghosh, The Hindu, Date- November 12, 2015, http://www.thehindu.com/thread/entertainmerit-variety/article7869552.ece]

Gopal Chhotray's Autobiography

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Eminent dramatist and Sahitya Akademi awardee, Gopal Chhotray's autobiographyPathika has a chapter titled `Rasagola of Cuttack and Calcutta'that has a comparative analysis between Odisha's Cuttacki Rasagola with Bengal's Calcutta Rasogolla. He concludes that Cuttacki(Odisha's)Rasagolas are far superior toCalcutta's (Bengal's) Rasogollas.

[ANNEXURE-14 Gopal Chhotr6T, Pathika, Vidyapuri, Cuttack, 1995, Page- 141]

Everybody in Odisha knows that Bhairaba Chandra Mohanty, one of the founders of Barabati Stadium, is an unforgettable personality in the history of Odishan sports. In Pathika, Gopal Chhotray describes: "Once two couples from Calcutta came and became his guests. That day Bhairaba babu told Gopal babu: 'They have come from Calcutta.. Their Rasagola is not only popular in Calcutta but outside the country as well. Youi live in BalitT bazaar area please advise me from which shop should we bring good quality sweets and offer them. Tell me, which sweets should we offer to them.'

Gopalbabu said, 'It is true that Rasagola of Kolkata is very popular. But we have Banchha Sahoo's shop at College Square; Rasagola, Khirama ohana or Rajabhoga of .Rangia shop in Balu bazaar, and sponge Rasagola of Govind Sahoo's shop near the High Court. I am sure your guests have never had a chance to relish such sweets. Let me make a list. You go and bring these sweets from Rangia', s shop.' .

Bhairaba babu followed his words. Later, when he met Gopal Chhotray, Bhairaba babu said in a relaxed manner: 'You yvere absolutely right. They have profusely praised our sweets made with Chhena, particularly Rasagola and .Rajablioga."

After describing this in his memoir, Chhotray has concluded: From his words, I gathered they preferred our Rasagola to the Rasagola of Calcutta."

This establishes that Odisha Rasagola as a product has distinct difference from Calcutta Rasagola since then.

The difference exists even today as eipressea by bestselling author, Sudeep Chakravarti, in his recent book, The Bengalis- A Portrait Of A Community. Describing "the top-ten roshogolla", he has "eaten thus far", he states:

"This includes roshogolla made in Odisha, with near-mythical proportions of texture, fragrance, • taste, aftertaste and, as crucially, afterglow- a , feeling that absolutely must accompany any rating of food in the Bengali scheme of things- which I ,rate as being as goo fl.c1 often better than roshogolla made in Banglasphere."

[ANNEXURE-15 Sudeep Chakravarii; The Bengali's- A Portrait Of A Corithiunitii, Aleph. Book Company, 2017, New Delhi, Pag0-275-276]

Sugar Factory in Aska, Odisha

Apart from Chhena, the main ingredient of Rasagola is Sugar.

Historically, Odisha was famous for sugar all over in India. The first Sugar Factory of Asia was established in Aska of Ganjam district, Odisha, in 1824.As per history, Odisha was the sugar land of India and Asia. Even today, sugar is referred as `Aska' in some places of India.

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Ulbe Bosma has written a research-based book The Sugar Plantation in India and Indonesia: Industrial production, 1770-2010. Its page 83 has a passage which states:

A man called John Binni, who belonged to the Binni family that lived in Madras since 1840, has established the sugar factory in Aska. It was named as 'The Aska Sugar Works and Distillery Ltd.' One of the shareholders of the factory' was Fredrick James Vivien Minchin. After thirty years, he married an Odia woman and settled in Aska. He brought over modern machines from Germany and made the sugar factory so advanced that it gained unparalleled popularity in sugar trade in India.

[ANNEXURE-16 Ulbe Bosma. The .Sugar Planiatioh in India and Indonesia: Industrial production, 1770-2010, USA: Cambridge University Press, 2016, Page-83]

However, a slightly different version of the story says, Minchin had bought the factory in 1856 and gave it a new form. He had imported machines from Germany by a ship. In this context, one can take, note that the 18th century GangaBansanuCharita. Champu mentions about the naval route.

A Report prepared by Nabakrushna Chaudhury Centre for [3ovelopment Studies, Bhubaneswar, has briefly mentioned, this and has written about Fredrick Minchin and Sona Minchin in its chapter titled 'Transport and Communication'. It may be specially mentioned that at that time a bronze statue of Minchin Saheb, and another marble statue of his Odia wife, Suna (Sona Madam/ Emily Sona Minchin) were established there. Though the bronze statue of Fredrick Minchin was later stolen, the marble statue' of Sona Minchin is preserved at the Odisha State Museum at Bhubaneswar. , Both ,the mementos of Fredrick James Vivian Minchin and Emily Sona Minchin are exhibited at the Odisha State Museum at Bhubaneswar.

This episode is significant, in Rasagola context, because during that time Aska Sugar Factory was popular all over India and abroad for its advanced sugar technology. It was the first sugar factory in Asia. Aska was known as the 'City of Sugar'. This indicates that sugar was more easily available to the Odias, who prepared Rasagola, than to the people in Bengal.

Earlier, the temples used a kind of gweetener refined from jaggery through the use of purely country method. This sweetener was well-known as Nabata. The Purnachandra Odia Bhasakosha states it as Kanda, Nabatcf, and Guda bikara (a refined form of Jaggery). In temple's parlance, it is known as Khandasaara.

[ANNEXURE-17(A). Kanda, Purnachandra Odia Bhasakosha, Page-1298] [ANNEXURE-17(B) Nabata, Purnachandra Odia Bzhasakosha, Page-4139], [ANNEXURE-17(C) Khandasaara, Purnachandra Odia Bhasakosha, Page-1919]

Jaggery has been used abundantly in the temples of Odisha, including the Shree Jagannath Temple. In this context, Chhena Bada can be mentioped. As per Purnachandra Odia Bhasakosa, Chhena Bada is a `Cheese-cake', a sweetmeat prepared from Chhena and Jaggery (Guda) syrup. It may be called as Guda Rasagola' (i.e, Rasagola it1 Jaggery syrup). [ANNEXURE-17(D) Chhena Bada, Purnachandra Odia Bhashakosha, Page 2844]

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In a recent interview in an Odia monthly, Badu Suara Nijog Sebaka of Shree Jagannath Temple, Biswanath Samantara, has substantiated this: [ANNEXURE-18] "Our Rasagola was prepared in Guda (Jaggery) syrup and not in Chini (Sugar)."

K.T. Achaya, a noted scholar of Indian food, in his book, A Historical Dictionary of Indian Food has supported the view that `Rasogolla' is a 'Bengali sweet'. [ANNEXURE-19(A) K.T. Achaya, A Historical Dictionary of Indian Food, Oxford University Press, 1998, Page-207]

As the main ingredient of Rasa' gola is Chhena, K.T. Achayahas connected the history of preparation of Chhena with the history of the arrival of the Portuguese in India. He states that: "A new thrust to sweet-making in Bengal occurred when the Portuguese gathered there; by AD 1650 they numbered 20,000, being settled mostly near Hughli. They were skilled in the art of preparing sweet fruit preserves, and • were fond of cottage cheese, which Bengali sweetmeat makers began to first furnish and then utilize, in imaginative ways." [ANNEXURE-19(B) K.T. Achaya, A Historical Dictionary of Indian Food, Oxford University Press, 1998, .Pages-22,23]

But, if one analyzes it from a historical perspective, the Portuguese arrived in India during the early part of the sixteenth century. Their trade centre was not limited to Bengal only. Their trade relation was also with Odisha during the same period. If the Bengalis could learn the preparation method of Chhena from the Portuguese in 1650, then the Odias too could have learned Chhena from the Portuguese. However, looking at it from another perspective, as the reference to Chhena is found in the works of 156 Century by Sarala Das and "Balaram Das, the art was known much earlier to Odisha, before the Portuguese arrived in Bengal.

As Chenna and Chenna-based sweets have been offered ,in Shree Jagannath Temple, Pun, from 13th Century, thus the information provided by A Historical Dictionary of Indian Food that "Bengali sweetmeat makers bega9 to first furnish (cottage cheese)" is incorrect.

In the book Jagannath and the G.ajapatf Kings of Orissa, edited by Dr. Gaganendra Nath Dash, an eminent scholar of Odia literature, and culture, there is mention of food offerings of Shree Jagannath. The book is a compendium of late medieval texts (Sebaka Karrnangi, Desha Khanja & other minor texts)

Rasakora, Chhenaladu, and Chhenamanda are mentioned in the list of offerings during morning, noon, and evening.

[ANNEXURE-20 Jagannath and the Gajapati Kings Of Orissa, Gaganendra Nath Dash, Manohar, Delhi, 2010]

All these bhogas are also mentioned in the Swattwalipi of Shree Jagannath Temple, Puri, Odisha.

'Rasa' in Odisha

In Odisha, traditionally 'Rasa' is related to culture.

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Many Odia epics have 'Rasa' in their names viz. Rasabinod, Rasakallolla and Rasakalpalata. Eminent scholar of Sanskrit, Biswanath Kabiraj in his Sahitya Darpan, has related 'Rasa' with God ('Rasa Bai Sah') to express 'God is Rasa' & 'Rasa is God'. Rasagola offering at Shree Jagannath Temple at Puri, Odisha, is significant in that respect.

In the tradition and food culture of Odisha, there are many dishes and confectionary that are prepared from Chhena and the names of a jot of traditional sweetmeats start with the word 'Rasa' e.g. Rasabara, Rasmalai, Rasakora,, Rasaphena, Rasakadamba, Rasakhai, Rasabali, Rasaladu, and Rasagola. Pages 7007-7020 of the Purnachandra Odia Bhasakosha list words starting with `pasa' [ANNEXURE-21 Purnachandra Odia Bhasakosha, Volume VI Gopal Chandra Praharaj, Page-7007]

It may be said that some of these like Rasakora, Chhenaladu, Chhenamanda etc. are earlier forms of Raagola.

Rasagola is apparently Chhenaladu or ball of cottage-cheese. The only difference is balls of Chhena are boiled in sugar-syrup to prepare Rasagola.

The other sweetmeat Chhenamanda is prepared by steaming balls of boiled rice flour stuffed with Chhena.

In an Oria-English Dictionary. of 1843, Christian Missionary, Reverend Amos Sutton had described Rasakora as- "a kind of sweet; savoury, liquefied".

[ANNEXURE-22 Amos Sutton, Oria English Dictionary, 1843]

In An Oria and English Dictionary of 1847, William Brooks had described Rasakora as- "a round-ball sweetmeat".

[ANNEXURE-23 William Brooks, An Oria and English Dictionary, 1847]

These descriptions . of Rasakora allude to Rasagola. Odia `Rasakora' as per thorphological exchange also‘ is a synonym of `Rasagola'. In the exchange, in the 'kora' of `Rasakora', 'Ica' became 'ga' and ̀ ra' became 'la'. Thus 'kora' became `gola' and the word became `Rasagola'. [ANNEXURE-24(A) Rasakora and Rasagota, Purnachandra Odia Bhasakosha, .Volume VI Gopal Chandra Praharaj, Page- 7Q13]

Purnachandra Odia Bhasakosha mentions Rasabara as "Cake soaked in syrup." [ANNEXURE-24(B) Rasabara, Purnachandra Odia Bhasakosha, Volume VI Gopal Chandra Praharaj, Page- 7016]

Rasabara is, around 700 years otcl and is associated with the belief and traditions of people in Western Odisha. Rasabali, Rasakadam, Rasmalai, and Rasabara ,are still widely consumed in the state (Odisha). Puri Pheni was earlier called as Rasp hena and is also mentioned in Purnachandra Odia Bhasakosha. Going with the food habits, there are villages in Odisha that are named as 'Rasa'. [ANNEXURE-24(C) Bhakta Tripathy, Prame4ya, From Rasabara to Rasagola, October 10, 2015]

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This proves that many Odia Chenna-sweets are ancestors or precursors of Rasagola.

The elaborate Mahaprasad of Shree Jagannath Temple, Puri, Odisha, constitutes of more than a hundred dishes including Rasagola and Dahi-Rasagola. 115 varieties of bhoga, prepared in the Temple kitchen, were on display in an exhibition held on 24th December 2017 at Bhubaneswar. This Mahaprasad included many Chhena-based dishes including Rasagola and Dahi Rasagola

[ANNEXURE-25(A) News report, Sainbad, 1.15 Varieties of Bhoga, Date- 25, December 2017]

[ANNEXURE-25(B) Photo of the Exhibition: Chhena-based dishes- Chhena Khai, Chhena Tadia and Niladri Bije Rasagola]

[ANNEXURE-25(C) Photo of the Exhibition: Dahi Rasagola]

Niladri Bile and Record of Ri2hts Rasagola bhoga has been traditionally linked with the rituals of the annual Car Festival of Shree Jagannath held at Puri, Odisha, from centuries. As per custom, Rasagola is offered to Maha Laxmion behalf of Shree Jagannath on Niladri Bije, the concluding ritual of Ratha Jatra. Traditionally, Bhittarachha Mohapatra Sebaka prepares Rasagola in his home and offers it as bhoga on Niladri Bije.

Out of 120 categories of Sebaka of Shree Jagannath Temple, Bhittarachha Seba is very important. As per the Record of Rights of Shree Jagannath Temple, his place is 4th in the list next to 1.Gajapati Maharaja, 2.Rajaguru, and 3.Chhatisa Nijoga Nayaka Pattajoshi Mohapatra. This states the importance of the Sebaka and the Seba.

Record of Rights of Shree Jagannath Temple also describes about this bhoga' . [ANNEXURE-26(A) Shree Jagannath Teinple Record of Rjghts, Law Department, Govt. of Orissa, 1956]

Procedure has been mentioned in the context of `Dwadasi-Niladri Bije.' It is written: "Bada Thalwr and Subhadra are brought to the throne. While they were brought, at the Suasari temple, Pati Mohapatra offers worship to theni. Jagamohan is also offered worship." However, for Shree Jagannath's Niladri Bije, it is written: "When the door opens, and Shree Jagannath arrives near the place where Lakshmi is already waiting, Bhitarachha Mohapatra Sebaka unties the knot of the ritual of marriage. They are offered worship. After this, Shree Jagannath s4s on the throne."

The significance of this is that Slime Jagannath is offered Rasagola, while the other three deities are offered water, paan and lamp offering. Shree :Jagannath enters last to the throne. There is mention of the bhoga that is traditionally Rasagola for Shree Jagannath. Traditionally, Bhitarachha Mohapatra 'prepares the Rasagola in a sattvik manner at his home, and offers that to Lakshini on behalf of Shree Jagannath. In the Bhittaraccha practice code in Swattwalipi, this finds a mention-71. Regarding the Bhitarachha Seba on the day of Niladri Bije, it has been mentioned that this 'servitor offers light manohi at the meeting altar, makes light

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offering to Garuda, while Shree Jagannath descends from the chariot and goes to sit on the jeweled throne. While the knot of the marriage to Rukmini is untied, he is offered Dahi pati, Ghasa, Manohi and Bhoga. As only Rasagola is being offered by Bhitarachha Mohapatra for ages, this bhoga is Rasagola.

In the 'Record of Rights' Pages 12-15, this bhoga has been mentioned. [ANNEXURE-26(B) Shree Jagannath Temple Record of Rights, Law Department, Govt. of Orissa, 1956]

It is also clearly mentioned in the `Madala Panji' (the temple records). Traditionally, *Tadhau Karan Sebaka is the record-keeper of Shree Jagannath Temple. In a letter to the Chief Administrator Of Shred Jagannath Temple, he has informed with evidence that the `Niladri Bije bhoga' is `Rasagola'. [ANNEXURE-27(A) Letter of Tadhau Karan $ebalca] [ANNEXURE-27(B) Record related to palm—leaf manuscript text copied to ancient diary, Page- 104] [ANNEXURE-27(C) Type-set text of the content oi'Page-104 of Tadhau-Karan Sebaka's diary]

Rasagola Blioga in Mutt (Matha) Culture

Mutts (Mathas i.e.Hindu Monasteries) surrounding the Shree Jagannath Temple at Purialso follow the same rituals (Rasagola bhoga) onNiladri Bije day.

Eminent schalar on Shree Jagannaih culture and researcher on Matha tradition of Puri, Dr.Bhaskar Mishra in his research-article in Pagrushaalso mentioned about this `Rasagola bhoga' in different Mathas such as Bada Odia Matha, Uttara Parshwa Matha and many more. [ANNEXURE-28 Dr.Bhaskar Mishra, Matha'Param'parare Rasagola Bhoga, Paurusha, Vol 50, Issue-I, July 2016, Pages-44-521

Bada Odia Matha was established in 15th Century ly.• Jagannath Das (author of Odia Bhagabata) in Baseli Sahi of Puri. In a letter to The Administrator, Shree Jagannath Temple, Pun, Shri Bansidhar Das Goswami, the present Mahanta of the Bada Odia Mathahas written:

"According to the daily and annual procedure and manual of the Bada Odia Matha, Rasagola is offered as bhoga her anciltasagola bh0a has been the tradition of the Matha for at least 300 years or more." . They offer Rasogola bhoga in, red, earthem pots near the chariots on Niladri Bije day. Traditionally, ,Rasagola bhoga is also offered to the presiding deities of the Matha on that day.

Apart from the Bada Odia Matha andUttara Parshwa Matha, other Mathas are involved in Shree Jagannath 's 'worship such as RadhabOlab Matha, Cuttacki Matha, New*, Das Matha, and Radhashyam. Matha., These Mathas have also been offering Rasagola bhoga from the last hundred to three hundred years or more.

In this context, eminent scholar on the tradition of Ptiri Mathas (Matha Pararnpara), Dr. Bhaskar Mishra has Made a special mention of Rapaba Dasha Matha. He had made an elaborate discussion on this in the journal Paurusha also. He has written:

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"This is the only Matha which brings Rasagola to offer to Shree Jagannath. A servitor offers it to Shree Jagannath after the Rukmini marriage knot is untied on behalf of the Matha. This tradition is of about three hundred years or more." [ANNEXURE-28 Dr.Bhaskar Mishra, Matha Paramparare Rasagola Bhoga„ Paurusha, Vol 50, Issue-I, July 2016, Pages-44-52]

Haripada Bhowmik, author of a Bengali book, Rasogolla, claims that the Chhena offering was first made to Shree Jagannath after king Prataprudra Dev, came under the influence of Sri Chaitanya. However, as per Dr. Bhaskar Mishra, author of Matha Parampara, no Rasagola offering is made at Sri Chaitanya Goudiya Matha in Puri on Niladri Bije day.

Similarly, at the time of anasara of Shree Jagannath (when the Lord suffers from fever), Sri Chaitanya did not get to have a glimpse of Shree Jagannath and went to have a glimpse of Shree Alarnath at the Alarnath Temple nearby. But, there is no practice of Rasagola offering there. The favourite offeringat the Alarnath temple is Khiri (little amount of boiled rice added to sweetened and condensed milk).

Other Reports & Research

As per a report in the English daily, The Piorieer,Professor Utpal Raychaudhury, Deptt. of Food Technology and Bio-Chemical, Jadavpur University, West Bengal, has been quoted: "In the middle of the nineteenth century, history says, the popularity of Rasgulla spread from Odisha to West Bengal. This was during a period when Bengal cuisine borrowed heavily from the Odia culinary traditions. A sweet seller, Haradhan Moira, may have introduced the dish in Bengal." [ANNEXURE-29 `Rasgulla has its origin in Jagannath Temple at Pun', The Pioneer, Date- 5th August, 2011]

In the popular Bengali weekly Bartamana, April 2011 issue, Samrat Nandi's article in a section, Ektu Janun, Ektu Bhabun' (Know- a little, Think a little) provides an interesting . description:

"Rasagola. As soon as one hears this word, one's tongue .drools. This sweet is regarded as an identity marker of Bengalis. And yet, no .mattef., how strongly the Bengalis claim Rasagola to be their own, one must feel surprised that its origin was in Odisha. It is a sweet prepared in Odisha for ages and ages. Even this sweet is offered to Shree Jagannath and Shree Lakshmi at Shree Jagannath Temple, Puri. In the mid-nineteenth century, many Brahmin cooks came to Bengal from Odisha in search of work. 'Incidentally, many varieties of recipes, including Rasagola, must have come to Bengal with them. Nonetheless, here Rasagola was popularized by a sweet vendor called Nabin Chandra Das,. After. him, his son, KC Das, has managed the business. By his effort, Rasagola got to be exported abroad." This passage clearly indicates that Rasagola became popular after it was brought from Odisha. [Annexure-30 Samrat Nandi, `Ektu Janun, Eictu Bhabun', Bartamana, Issue Date- April, 2011]

S.M. Gani, Regional Director, North East, Ministry of Tourism, Govt. of India, and former Principal of Institute of Hotel Management, kolkata; in his article Odishara Khadya Ruchi'

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(Culinary Traditions of Odisha), edited by Prof Ganeswar Mishra, has mentioned Rasagola as one of the most popular sweet dishes of Odisha: "Among sweets (of Odisha) some milk-preparations like Rasagola, Chhenapodapitha, ChhenaJhili, Rabidi, Rasmalai, Chhenagaja, Khastagaja, Labangalata, Sarapuli, Rasabali, Khira are quite famous. The most, notable of them is Chhenapoda which is a specialty in some parts of the state."

[ANNEXURE-31 SM Gani, ANNEXURE-37(B)- Imaging Odisha, Culinary Traditions of Odisha, Ed. Herman Kulke, Prafulla Publicatipn, 2013, Page 423-424]

Internationally famed and known as independent culinary writer, historian and educator Charmaine O'Brien in her book, The Penguin Food Guide To India, has noted in the Chapter, `Odisha: Feeding the Divine' that: "The most likely story is that the rasgulla came into Bengal from Odisha but was commercially produced and popularized in Calcutta. As an interesting side note, the round shape of the Rasgulla represents Lord Vishnu's rule of the globe." [ANNEXURE-32 Charmaine O'Brien, The Penguin Food Guide To India, `Odisha: Feeding the Divine', Page-138,144]

Shri Asit Mohanty's research Sahitya Akademi award winner and eminent cultural researcher, Asit Mohanty elaborately establishes all the above in his book, Shree Jagannathanka Rasagola, and in his various research-articles about Rasagola. In his article in Scribd, he concludes:

"It is not always possible to fix a specific date to a traditional ritual which started many centuries ago. From this perspective, though the specific time, when Rasagola was used on Niladri Bije, it can be said it was prevalent in Puri between three hundred to seven hundred years. The mention of Rasagola in Dandi Ramayana shows it is prevalent in Odisha for at least five hundred years. And the Srimandira. Swattwalipi supports that it is offered on the day of NiladriBije. This clearly proves that Odisha is the place of origin of Rasagola and it is the traditional ritual offering when Shree Jagannath returns to his abode."

[ANNEXURE-33 Asit Mohanty, Scribd , `Rasagola: The Ritual Offering of0disha', 2015, Page-18, https://www.scribd.com/documen06504434/Rasagola,-for-ODISHA]

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