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C&A Chemical Policy (RSL & MRSL) Quality Assurance and Development (QAD) Valid for all products sold in C&A stores

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Page 1: C&A Chemical Policy (RSL & MRSL)materialimpacts.c-and-a.com/fileadmin/user_upload/SCM_C_A_Chemic… · 4.2 Chemical Group 2 - AZO COLOURANTS (AZO DYES & AZO PIGMENTS) ... In this

C&A Chemical Policy (RSL & MRSL)

Quality Assurance and Development (QAD)

Valid for all products sold in C&A stores

Page 2: C&A Chemical Policy (RSL & MRSL)materialimpacts.c-and-a.com/fileadmin/user_upload/SCM_C_A_Chemic… · 4.2 Chemical Group 2 - AZO COLOURANTS (AZO DYES & AZO PIGMENTS) ... In this

C&A Chemical Policy (RSL & MRSL)

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Approval date: 27/05/2016

Effective date: 01/08/2016

Effective until further notice

I/ Scope

All C&A products must comply with the relevant requirements

II/ Purpose

The C&A RSL Policy defines mandatory requirements, handling and process flow for information and testing compliance with regard to potentially present hazardous substances in C&A products.

III/ Definitions/ Abbreviations

For definitions and abbreviations explanations, please refer to chapter 9. Glossary

IV/ Policy Statement

This Policy aims to ensure, that product related consumer and environment safety requirements are being adhered to throughout the product life cycle.

V/ Responsibilities

This Policy defines the basic responsibilities all along the supply chain. Therefore, it is absolutely essential, that C&A suppliers and their business partners throughout the supply chain have a robust chemical quality management system and process control in place to ensure safe products.

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C&A Chemical Policy (RSL & MRSL)

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Approval date: 27/05/2016

Effective date: 01/08/2016

Effective until further notice

Table of Contents Introduction ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 5 1

REACH Regulation .............................................................................................................................................................................................................. 6 2

2.1 What is the REACH Regulation? ......................................................................................................................................................................... 6

2.2 What are your responsibilities?............................................................................................................................................................................ 6

2.2.1 Registration with the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) for substances, mixtures and products (articles) that

release chemicals. .................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 6

2.2.2 Articles with Substances of Very High Concern (SVHC) ....................................................................................................................... 6

2.3 Authorisation .............................................................................................................................................................................................................. 7

2.4 Restricted substances (REACH Annex XVII) .................................................................................................................................................. 7

2.5 All Suppliers ................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 7

2.6 Elimination and Substitution of substances concerned under REACH .................................................................................................. 8

Non-Garment Product Concern .................................................................................................................................................................................... 9 3

3.1 Food Contact Products .......................................................................................................................................................................................... 9

3.2 Electrical and Electronic Products ...................................................................................................................................................................... 9

3.3 Cosmetic Products .................................................................................................................................................................................................. 9

3.4 Packaging Materials ................................................................................................................................................................................................. 9

Restricted Substance List (RSL) ................................................................................................................................................................................. 10 4

4.1 Chemical Group 1 - ALKYLPHENOLS (AP) / ALKYLPHENOL ETHOXYLATES (APEO) .............................................................. 10

4.2 Chemical Group 2 - AZO COLOURANTS (AZO DYES & AZO PIGMENTS) ..................................................................................... 11

4.3 Chemical Group 3 - DISPERSE DYES .............................................................................................................................................................. 12

4.4 Chemical Group 4 - CARCINOGENIC DYES ................................................................................................................................................ 13

4.5 Chemical Group 5 - BIOCIDES & PESTICIDES ............................................................................................................................................. 14

4.6 Chemical Group 6 - CHLORINATED ORGANIC CARRIERS (COC) ..................................................................................................... 17

4.7 Chemical Group 7 – CHLORINATED PARAFFINS ...................................................................................................................................... 18

4.8 Chemical Group 8 - FLAME RETARDANTS .................................................................................................................................................. 19

4.9 Chemical Group 9 - FORMALDEHYDE .......................................................................................................................................................... 20

4.10 Chemical Group 10 PART 1 - HEAVY METALS EXTRACTABLE ............................................................................................................ 21

4.11 Chemical Group 10 PART 2 - HEAVY METALS SOLUBLE ...................................................................................................................... 22

4.12 Chemical Group 10 PART 3 - HEAVY METALS SOLUBLE ...................................................................................................................... 23

4.13 Chemical Group 10 PART 4 - HEAVY METALS RELEASABLE .............................................................................................................. 24

4.14 Chemical Group 11 - HEAVY METALS TOTAL CONTENT ...................................................................................................................... 25

4.15 Chemical Group 12 - ISOCYANATES ............................................................................................................................................................. 26

4.16 Chemical Group 13 - ORGANOTIN COMPOUNDS .................................................................................................................................. 27

4.17 Chemical Group 14 - pH VALUE ....................................................................................................................................................................... 28

4.18 Chemical Group 15 – PLASTICIZER (PHTHALATES AND OTHERS).................................................................................................. 29

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Effective until further notice

4.19 Chemical Group 16 - PERFLUORINATED COMPOUNDS ...................................................................................................................... 30

4.20 Chemical Group 17 - POLYCYCLIC AROMATIC HYDROCARBONS (PAH) ...................................................................................... 31

4.21 Chemical Group 18 - POLYMERS & POLYMER AUXILIARIES ............................................................................................................... 32

4.22 Chemical Group 19 - SOLVENTS - VOLATILE ORGANIC COMPOUNDS (VOC) .......................................................................... 33

4.23 Chemical Group 20 - N-NITROSAMINE & N-NITROSAMINE CONVERTIBLE SUBSTANCES ................................................. 34

The C&A Guide to chemical use and reasons for restriction ............................................................................................................................. 35 5

5.1 Chemical Group 1 - ALKYLPHENOLS (AP) / ALKYLPHENOL ETHOXYLATES (APEO) .............................................................. 35

5.2 Chemical Group 2 - AZO Dyes ......................................................................................................................................................................... 35

5.3 Chemical Group 3 - DISPERSE DYES (Which are classified to be allergenic) .................................................................................. 35

5.4 Chemical Group 4 - DYES (Which are classified to be carcinogenic) .................................................................................................. 36

5.5 Chemical Group 5 - BIOCIDES & PESTICIDES ............................................................................................................................................ 36

5.6 Chemical Group 6 - CHLORINATED ORGANIC CARRIERS ................................................................................................................... 37

5.7 Chemical Group 7 - CHLORINATED PARAFFINS ...................................................................................................................................... 37

5.8 Chemical Group 8 - FLAME RETARDANTS ................................................................................................................................................. 37

5.9 Chemical Group 9 – FORMALDEHYDE ......................................................................................................................................................... 38

5.10 Chemical Group 10 - HEAVY METALS - EXTRACTABLE, SOLUBLE & RELEASABLE .................................................................. 38

5.11 Chemical Group 11 - HEAVY METALS - TOTAL CONTENT ................................................................................................................... 38

5.12 Chemical Group 12 – ISOCYANATES ............................................................................................................................................................ 39

5.13 Chemical Group 13 - ORGANOTIN COMPOUNDS .................................................................................................................................. 39

5.14 Chemical Group - pH VALUE ............................................................................................................................................................................. 39

5.15 Chemical Group 15 – PLASTICIZER (PHTHALATES AND OTHERS).................................................................................................. 39

5.16 Chemical Group 16 - PERFLUORINATED COMPOUNDS ...................................................................................................................... 40

5.17 Chemical Group 17 - POLYCYCLIC AROMATIC HYDROCARBONS (PAH) ..................................................................................... 40

5.18 Chemical Group 18 - POLYMERS & POLYMER AUXILIARIES ................................................................................................................ 41

5.19 Chemical Group 19 - SOLVENTS - VOLATILE ORGANIC COMPOUNDS (VOC) ........................................................................... 41

5.20 Chemical Group 20 - N-NITROSAMINE & N-NITROSAMINE CONVERTIBLE SUBSTANCES .................................................. 41

C&A – Authorized Laboratories .................................................................................................................................................................................. 43 6

Translation of Units – Conversion Table for mg/kg (ppm) and % ................................................................................................................... 43 7

Manufacturing Restricted Substance List (MRSL) ............................................................................................................................................... 44 8

8.1 The testing parameters, test methods and detection limits for waste water testing ...................................................................... 45

Glossary ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 48 9

9.1 Definitions ................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 48

9.2 Abbreviations .......................................................................................................................................................................................................... 49

APPENDIX - Manufacturing Restricted Substance List (MRSL) Version 1.1 (2015) of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous 10

Chemicals (ZDHC ) Programme ............................................................................................................................................................................................ 50

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Approval date: 27/05/2016

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Effective until further notice

Introduction 1We would like to remind you that as a supplier to C&A you have agreed only to supply products to C&A that comply with the European and C&A restrictions on the use of harmful substances. C&A restrictions are generally based on existing European Legislation, but in certain cases it has been decided to impose stricter limitations on products where there is evidence that a product may present a risk for the customer, although precise legislation has not yet been introduced.

These standards are mandatory and we fully expect and require that all our suppliers comply with these requirements, which form part of contractual relationship.

We recognize that these requirements can be a source of additional challenge to our supply chain, as indeed they are to C&A, but we have to stress that these standards are essential to the future of our business. The consequences of non-compliance will affect us all. It remains a primary aim of C&A to ensure that only safe, legally compliant and clean products are offered on sale in its stores. The testing programs, designed to ensure compliance with the required standards, will help us achieve this aim together.

In order to ensure compliance with these standards it is imperative that all your suppliers of components for the manufacture of C&A merchandise are made aware of our, and therefore, your requirements.

You are strongly advised to proactively seek assurance, in the form of test reports issued by accredited testing houses, from your suppliers. This not only provides you with guarantees that your suppliers are meeting the standards; it also ensures that you will likely not face problems with your merchandise during internal monitoring programs. Monitoring and retesting is part of C&A due diligence process.

In order to fulfill your own due diligence duties, we recommend that you install an independent monitoring procedure on the incoming and outgoing products delivered to C&A.

An accurate and proven due diligence program will provide security to you in regards to compliance with applicable EU legislation. Please note that deliberate or negligent imports or distribution of goods into the EU containing illegal substances is considered as criminal offence.

C&A expects that you inform yourself about applicable EU laws and restriction on an ongoing basis.

We recommend being proactive in seeking professional advice about how to test your product, how to set up procedures to check that the raw materials you receive do in fact comply with the required standards. A sole written instruction, without a controlling procedure in place has been proven not be sufficient.

You must keep records of your findings when testing your raw materials, and not deal with any supplier who cannot, or will not, meet the necessary standards.

In line with the C&A commitment towards zero discharge of hazardous chemicals (ZDHC) the Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL)* addresses hazardous substances potentially used and discharged into the environment during manufacturing and related processes, not just those substances that could be present in finished products. The MRSL should be communicated to chemical suppliers to ensure that the listed substances are not present in chemical formulations above established limits.

*see page 44 chapter 8. MRSL and page 50 chapter 10. MRSL document or use the following internet-link to the ZDHC homepage for download the document: http://www.roadmaptozero.com/programme/.

In addition, C&A acknowledges Bluesign® and Oeko-Tex®-STeP (Sustainable Textile Production) certification as an example of good manufacturing practice in our supply chain.

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REACH Regulation 2As a valued supplier of C&A, this section is designed to make you aware of the implications of the REACH Regulations and its impact on C&A and our supply chain. It is important, that all roles and responsibilities are understood as the Regulation impacts the whole supply chain.

2.1 What is the REACH Regulation?

On June 1st 2007, the European Regulation on the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) came into force. The underlying aims of the REACH Regulation are;

to map the use of all new and existing chemicals in the EU to assess the harm these chemicals might cause to humans and the environment to minimise the risks harmful chemicals pose to humans and the environment by banning or restricting their use

In order to fulfil these obligations, the regulation places obligations on manufacturers, importers and distributors of consumer products to report on chemicals that are being used in or imported into the EU.

Obligations under REACH depend on the product classification.

Substance on its own (raw materials e.g. powder or liquid in a chemistry set) Substance in a mixture (e.g. candle, glue, nail art) Substance in an article (e.g. toy, clothing, footwear, jewellery)

Nearly all products sold by C&A can be classified as articles, although if unsure, this must be checked with the QAD department.

2.2 What are your responsibilities?

2.2.1 Registration with the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) for substances, mixtures and products (articles) that release chemicals.

If the product being supplied can be classed as a substance, mixture or intentional chemical release,

it is your responsibility to register substances with the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA), if you manufacture or import more than 1 tonne of any individual substance per year, whether it is contained on its own or in a mixture, or in an article (if the substance is intended to be released during normal and reasonably foreseeable conditions of use from an article (see below 2.2.1a)).

Further information on registration can be found on the ECHA website:

http://echa.europa.eu/web/guest/support/guidance-on-reach-and-clp-implementation

If you do not register your substances, then the data on them will not be available and as a result, you will no longer be able to manufacture or supply them legally within the European Union. In this case, C&A will no longer be able to use you as a supplier.

2.2.1a Articles with substances that are intended for release

No chemicals must be released from the product, during normal foreseeable conditions.

The only exception to this is a product, which contains substances that are intentionally released. In this instance such products must be obtained from one of the following sources:

ETAD (Ecological and Toxicological Association of Dyes and Organic Pigments Manufacturers)

members; or

EU Dyestuff manufactures, who have pre-registered their products for the REACH legislation; or Suppliers who are pre-registering their products for REACH

Such substances intended for release from an article must still be registered as for all chemical substance within the scope of REACH.

Example products are: tights containing Aloe Vera, which is designed to be released from the tights when worn, scented tissues

2.2.2 Articles with Substances of Very High Concern (SVHC)

This applies to all products and packaging supplied to C&A.

Some substances have hazards that have serious consequences, e.g. they cause cancer (carcinogenic), or they have other harmful properties and remain in the environment for a long time (persistent) and gradually build up in animals (bioaccumulative). These are substances of very high concern (SVHC).

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As a supplier to C&A, you must identify any SVHCs that are present at more than 0.1% weight per weight in each component of an article that you supply to us and provide information on their safe use within 15 days of being requested to do so. The term ‘’article’’ includes objects joined with other objects in order to form more complex products. If you are a EU manufacturer or importer of products containing SVHC`s >0.1% calculated at the component level then you must notify to the ECHA any SVHC`s greater than 1 tonne per year in your product.

All substances classified as SVHC’s under REACH are listed on the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) website: http://echa.europa.eu/web/guest/candidate-list-table

The substances on the candidate list are updated usually twice a year, so please check with the ECHA website to ensure you are working to the latest substance list.

2.3 Authorisation

The goal of REACH is to remove harmful substances from the market place. If it is decided that a SVHC should no longer be placed on the market then it is placed on the Authorisation list and a date assigned after which it can no longer be manufactured in Europe for sale. This date is called the “Sunset date”.

C&A requires that all products supplied do not contain any substances on the Authorisation list after the Sunset date.

The ECHA Authorisation list can be found by using the following link: http://echa.europa.eu/addressing-chemicals-of-concern/authorisation/recommendation-for-inclusion-in-the-authorisation-list/authorisation-list?p_p_id=substancetypelist_WAR_substanceportlet&p_p_lifecycle=0&p_p_state=normal&p_p_mode=view&p_p_col_id=column-1&p_p_col_pos=1&p_p_col_count=2

2.4 Restricted substances (REACH Annex XVII)

Some substances are only hazardous if present in specific products and/or above certain concentrations. If this is the case, these substances may be designated as restricted substances. In this case very precise legislation is drawn up relating to which products the restriction is applicable to and in what concentrations (e.g. Cadmium in Jewellery).

Annex XVII replaces the old marketing and use of certain dangerous substances and preparations Directive 76/769/EEC. All substances previously listed in 76/769/EEC are now listed in REACH under Annex XVII which is also where all new restrictions will be placed (e.g. Azo dyes, Nickel, etc.).

A full list of new restrictions that are being considered can be found on the ECHA website under the following link: http://echa.europa.eu/reach/restriction/restrictions_under_consideration_en.asp

It is your responsibility to ensure that no products supplied to C&A are in breach of these restricted substance requirements.

2.5 All Suppliers

All suppliers to C&A are required to provide products that are REACH compliant. You may be required to provide further information to C&A to substantiate this compliance. Where you are supplying C&A with products that contain SVHC`s greater than 0.1% then you must notify QAD prior to shipping the goods.

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2.6 Elimination and Substitution of substances concerned under REACH

C&A aims to work with our suppliers to phase out the use of substances of concern under REACH in the goods supplied to us. To support this aim, please

identify the substances currently used in the products that you offer to us and indicate which ones are of concern, seek alternative materials to replace these, and/or, work with your material suppliers to eliminate or reduce the amount of the substance of concern

If you have particular concerns regarding any REACH compliance issue, please contact the principle C&A contact persons.

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Non-Garment Product Concern 3

3.1 Food Contact Products

All food contact materials (FCM) must comply i.a. with the ‘’Framework’’ Regulation (EC) No 1935/2004 and all regulations, directives and amendments under this framework regulation, which applies to all materials and articles intended to come into contact with food such as: Packaging materials, Cutlery and dishes, Processing machines, Containers, Materials and articles in contact with water for human consumption. All food contact materials must comply additionally with the country specific national

regulation (Germany: LFGB and BfR recommendations on Food Contact materials, France: DGCCRF food contact grade).

http://ec.europa.eu/food/food/chemicalsafety/foodcontact/framework_en.htm

3.2 Electrical and Electronic Products

All electrical and electronic products must comply i.a. with EU Directive 2011/65/EU, which restricts the use of certain hazardous substances in electrical and electronic equipment.

http://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=celex:32011L0065

3.3 Cosmetic Products

All cosmetic products must comply i.a. with the EC Regulation No. 1223/2009, which applies in all European countries since 11th July 2013.

ANNEX II of Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 includes a list of substances which must not form part of the composition of cosmetic products. Also, there is a list showing different chemicals which shall only be used under restricted conditions (ANNEX III). Furthermore, these regulations monitor the use of Colourants (ANNEX IV), Preservatives (ANNEX V) and UV-filters (ANNEX VI). To ensure the safety of cosmetic products being sold within EU, manufacturer must check the ingredients of their products against the above mentioned annexes.

Furthermore the above mentioned regulation i.a. defines requirements regarding to the labelling of cosmetic products, the microbiological quality and information, which has to be kept readily accessible to the competent authorities of the Member State. Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 describes the content of a Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR) (Article 10 in association with Annex I) for the finished cosmetic product as well as a notification of all cosmetic products which shall be placed on the EU-market.

http://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/ALL/?uri=CELEX:32009R1223

3.4 Packaging Materials

All packaging materials must comply i.a. with the EU Directive 94/62/EC for packaging and packaging waste and the C&A RSL-Policy. Packaging shall mean all products made of any materials of any nature to be used for the containment, protection, handling, delivery and presentation of goods, from raw materials to processed goods, from the producer to the user or the consumer.

http://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/en/TXT/?uri=CELEX:31994L0062

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Restricted Substance List (RSL) 4Articles produced for C&A must meet all European legal restrictions and as well all C&A RSL requirements regarding chemical substances.

4.1 Chemical Group 1 - ALKYLPHENOLS (AP) / ALKYLPHENOL ETHOXYLATES (APEO)

CHEMICAL GROUP 1: ALKYLPHENOLS (AP) / ALKYLPHENOL ETHOXYLATES (APEO)

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All

Texiles: Extraction with methanol, 1h, 70°C, ultrasonic bath acc. to ISO/FDIS 18254:2015-10 followed by LC-MS Plastics: Extraction with tetrahydrofurane, 60°C, 30min, ultrasonic bath, addition of acetonitrile after cooling down followed by LC-MS Leather: ISO 18218-1:2015-11 followed by LC-MS

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT [mg/kg]

DETECTION LIMIT [mg/kg]

1 Nonylphenol NP

104-40-5 11066-49-2 25154-52-3 84852-15-3 90481-04-2 <10 3

2 Octylphenol OP 140-66-9

1806-26-4 27193-28-8

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT [mg/kg]

DETECTION LIMIT [mg/kg]

3 Nonylphenol ethoxylates NPEO

9016-45-9 26027-38-3 37205-87-1 68412-54-4

127087-87-0 <100* 30

4 Octylphenol ethoxylates OPEO 9002-93-1 9036-19-5

68987-90-6

* C&A commits to eliminate the intentional use of APEO from all C&A products latest by 2020. All C&A products have to comply

latest by 1st season 2017 with the APEO limit value of 100 mg/kg, or the end of the grace period for C&A products to be fully

compliant is season 1 (SN1) 2017.

The U.S. EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) identified suitable safer alternative surfactants /detergents to substitute APEO in the Program Design for the Environment (DfE). The related list is available on the safer chemical ingredients list (SCIL) at the following link: http://www.epa.gov/dfe/pubs/projects/npe/aa-for-NPEs-final-version5-3-12.pdf

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4.2 Chemical Group 2 - AZO COLOURANTS (AZO DYES & AZO PIGMENTS)

CHEMICAL GROUP 2: AZO COLOURANTS (AZO DYES & AZO PIGMENTS)

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All Textile/Other: prEN ISO 14362-1:2015, 4-AAB: ISO/DIS 14362- 3:2015 (prEN ISO 14362-3:2015) Leather: ISO 17234-1:2015 and ISO 17234-2:2011 Refer to C&A SOP Azo Colourant Test Method

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT

[mg/kg] DETECTION LIMIT

[mg/kg]

1 4-Aminobiphenyl

92-67-1

<20 5

2 Benzidine 92-87-5

3 4-Chloro-o-toluidine 95-69-2

4 2-Naphthylamine 91-59-8

5 o-Aminoazotoluene 97-56-3

6 5-Nitro-o-toluidine 99-55-8

7 4-Chloroaniline 106-47-8

8 2,4-Diaminoanisole 615-05-4

9 4,4'-Diaminodiphenylmethane 4,4'-MDA 101-77-9

10 3,3'-Dichlorobenzidine 91-94-1

11 3,3'-Dimethoxybenzidine 119-90-4

12 3,3'-Dimethylbenzidine 119-93-7

13 4,4'-Methylenedi-o-toluidine 838-88-0

14 p-Cresidine 120-71-8

15 4,4'-Methylene-bis-(2-Chloroaniline)

101-14-4

16 4,4'-Oxydianiline

101-80-4

17 4,4'-Thiodianiline

139-65-1

18 o-Toluidine

95-53-4

19 2,4-Toluenediamine 2,4-TDA 95-80-7

20 2,4,5-Trimethylaniline

137-17-7

21 o-Anisidine

90-04-0

22 2,4-Xylidine

95-68-1

23 2,6-Xylidine

87-62-7

24 4-Aminoazobenzene 4-AAB 60-09-3

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4.3 Chemical Group 3 - DISPERSE DYES

CHEMICAL GROUP 3: DISPERSE DYES

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All DIN 54231:2005, weight of sample taken 0.5g, extraction with methanol, 70°C, 30min, ultrasonic bath

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT

[mg/l] DETECTION LIMIT

[mg/l]

1 Disperse Blue 1

2475-45-8

<5 1

2 Disperse Yellow 3

2832-40-8

3 Disperse Blue 3

2475-46-9

4 Disperse Blue 7

3179-90-6

5 Disperse Blue 26

3860-63-7

6 Disperse Blue 35

56524-76-7 56524-77-7

7 Disperse Blue 102

12222-97-8

8 Disperse Blue 106

12223-01-7

9 Disperse Blue 124

61951-51-7

10 Disperse Brown 1

23355-64-8

11 Disperse Orange 1

2581-69-3

12 Disperse Orange 3

730-40-5

13 Disperse Orange 37/76/59

13301-61-6

14 Disperse Orange 149

85136-74-9

15 Disperse Red 1

2872-52-8

16 Disperse Red 11

2872-48-2

17 Disperse Red 17

3179-89-3

18 Disperse Yellow 1

119-15-3

19 Disperse Yellow 9

6373-73-5

20 Disperse Yellow 23

6250-23-3

21 Disperse Yellow 39

12236-29-2

22 Disperse Yellow 49

54824-37-2

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4.4 Chemical Group 4 - CARCINOGENIC DYES

CHEMICAL GROUP 4: CARCINOGENIC DYES

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All DIN 54231:2005, weight of sample taken 0.5g, extraction with methanol, 70°C, 30min, ultrasonic bath

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT

[mg/l] DETECTION LIMIT

[mg/l]

1 Acid Red 26 3761-53-3

<5 1

2 Basic Red 9 569-61-9

3 Basic Violet 14 632-99-5

4 Direct Red 28 573-58-0

5 Direct Black 38 1937-37-7

6 Direct Blue 6 2602-46-2

7 Disperse Blue 1 2475-45-8

8 Disperse Orange 11 82-28-0

9 Disperse Yellow 3 2832-40-8

10 Disperse Navy Blue Component 1: Component 2:

118685-33-9 <5 2

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT [mg/kg]

DETECTION LIMIT [mg/kg]

11 Basic Violet 3 548-62-9

<250 50

12 Basic Blue 26 2580-56-5

13 Basic Green 4 (malachite green chloride) 569-64-2

14 Basic Green 4 (malachite green oxalate) 2437-29-8

15 Basic Green 4 (malachite green) 10309-95-2

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4.5 Chemical Group 5 - BIOCIDES & PESTICIDES

CHEMICAL GROUP 5: BIOCIDES & PESTICIDES

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All

Triclosan: Following ISO 13365 extraction with acetonitrile, 1h, RT, ultrasonic bath followed by GC-MS DMFu: CEN ISO/TS 16186:2012; DIN SPEC 53280:2012, Extraction with acetone, 1h, 60°C, ultrasonic bath, followed by GC-MS or LC-MS BAC: Extraction with methanol, quantification by LC-MS/MS CPs: ISO 17070:2015 OPP: ISO 13365:2011, extraction with acetonitrile, 1h, RT, ultrasonic bath followed by GC-MS Pesticides: Reference to US EPA method and analysis by GC-MS/ECD or LC-MS-MS

No.

RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE

SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT

[mg/kg] DETECTION LIMIT

[mg/kg]

1 Triclosan

3380-34-5 Usage ban

<10 1

2 Dimethyl fumarate DMFu 624-49-7 Usage ban

<0.1 0.03

3 Benzalkonium chloride BAC 63449-41-2 Usage ban

<1 1

4 Pentachlorophenol PCP 87-86-5

<0.5 0.05

5 Tetrachlorophenols 2,3,4,6-TeCP 2,3,5,6-TeCP 2,3,4,5-TeCP

58-90-2 935-95-5

4901-51-3

6 Trichlorophenols

2,3,4-TriCP 2,3,5-TriCP 2,3,6-TriCP 2,4,5-TriCP 2,4,6-TriCP 3,4,5-TriCP

15950-66-0 933-78-8 933-75-5

95-95-4 88-06-2

609-19-8

7 Dichlorophenols

2,3-DiCP 2,4-DiCP 2,5-DiCP 2,6-DiCP 3,4-DiCP 3,5-DiCP

576-24-9 120-83-2 583-78-8

87-65-0 95-77-2

591-35-5

8 Monochlorophenols 2-CP 3-CP 4-CP

95-57-8 108-43-0 106-48-9

9 o-Phenylphenol OPP 90-43-7 <50 0.5

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No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT

[mg/kg] DETECTION LIMIT

[mg/kg]

10 2,4,5-Trichlorophenoxyacetic acid 2,4,5-T 93-76-5

For baby =<0.5

Other = 1

0.2

11 2,4-Dichlorophenoxyacetic acid 2,4-D 94-75-7

12 Acetamiprid 135410-20-7 160430-64-8

13 Aldicarb 116-06-3

14 Azinophosmethyl 86-50-0

15 Azinophosethyl 2642-71-9

16 Aldrin 309-00-2

17 Bromophos-ethyl 4824-78-6

18 Captafol 2425-06-1

19 Carbaryl 63-25-2

20 Chlordane 57-74-9

21 Chlordimeform 6164-98-3

22 Chlorfenvinphos 470-90-6

23 Clothianidin 210880-92-5

24 Coumaphos 56-72-4

25 Cyfluthrin 68359-37-5

26 Cyhalothrin 91465-08-6

27 Cypermethrin 52315-07-8

28 1,2,4-Tributylphosphorotrithioate DEF 78-48-8

29 Deltamethrin 52918-63-5

30 Mitotan, 1,1-Dichlor- 2-(2-chlorphenyl)- 2-(4-chlorphenyl)ethane DDD 53-19-0 72-54-8

31 1-Chlor-4-[2,2-dichlor-1-(4-chlorphenyl)ethenyl]benzene DDE 3424-82-6,

72-55-9

32 1,1,1-Trichlor-2,2-bis-(4-chlorophenyl)ethane DDT 50-29-3,

789-02-6

33 Diazinon 333-41-5

34 Dichlorprop 120-36-5

35 Dicrotophos 141-66-2

36 Dieldrin 60-57-1

37 Dimethoat 60-51-5

38 Dinoseb, Salze und Acetat 88-85-7 et al

39 Dinotefuran 165252-70-0

40 Endosulfan, α- 959-98-8

41 Endosulfan, β- 33213-65-9

42 Endrin 72-20-8

43 Esfenvalerat 66230-04-4

44 Fenvalerat 51630-58-1

45 Heptachlor 76-44-8

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No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT

[mg/kg] DETECTION LIMIT

[mg/kg]

46 Heptachlorepoxid 1024-57-3

47 Hexachlorbenzol 118-74-1

48 Hexachlorcyclohexan, α- 319-84-6

For baby =<0.5

Other = 1

0.2

49 Hexachlorcyclohexan, β- 319-85-7

50 Hexachlorcyclohexan, δ- 319-86-8

51 Imidacloprid 105827-78-9 138261-41-3

52 Isodrin 465-73-6

53 Kelevan 4234-79-1

54 Kepon 143-50-0

55 Lindan 58-89-9

56 Malathion 121-75-5

57 2-Methyl-4-chlorophenoxyacetic acid MCPA 94-74-6

58 (2-Methyl-4-Chlorophenoxy)butyric acid MCPB 94-81-5

59 Mecoprop 93-65-2

60 Metamidophos 10265-92-6

61 Methoxychlor 72-43-5

62 Mirex 2385-85-5

63 Monocrotophos 6923-22-4

64 Nitenpyram 150824-47-8

65 Parathion 56-38-2

66 Parathion-methyl 298-00-0

67 Perthan 72-56-0

68 Phosdrin/Mevinphos 7786-34-7

69 Propethamphos 31218-83-4

70 Profenophos 41198-08-7

71 Quinalphos 13593-03-8

72 Stroban 8001-50-1

73 Telodrin 297-78-9

74 Thiacloprid 111988-49-9

75 Thiamethoxam 153719-23-4

76 Toxaphen (Camphechlor) 8001-35-2

77 Trifluralin 1582-09-8

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4.6 Chemical Group 6 - CHLORINATED ORGANIC CARRIERS (COC)

CHEMICAL GROUP 6: CHLORINATED ORGANIC CARRIERS (COC)

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All DIN 54232:2010, weight of sample taken 2g, extraction with dichloromethane, 30 min, RT followed by GC-MS

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT

[mg/kg] DETECTION LIMIT

[mg/kg]

1 Chlorobenzene

108-90-7

<1.0 (total)

0.1

2 Dichlorobenzenes 1,2-DiCB 1,3-DiCB 1,4-DiCB

95-50-1 541-73-1

106-46-7

3 Trichlorobenzenes 1,2,3-TriCB 1,2,4-TriCB 1,3,5-TriCB

87-61-6 120-82-1 108-70-3

4 Tetrachlorobenzenes 1,2,3,4-TeCB 1,2,3,5-TeCB 1,2,4,5-TeCB

634-66-2 634-90-2

95-94-3

5 Pentachlorobenzene PCB 608-93-5

6 Hexachlorobenzene HCB 118-74-1

7 Monochlorotoluenes 2-CT 3-CT 4-CT

95-49-8 108-41-8 106-43-4

8 Dichlorotoluenes

2,3-DiCT 2,4-DiCT 2,5-DiCT 2,6-DiCT 3,4-DiCT 3,5-DiCT

32768-54-0 95-73-8

19398-61-9 118-69-4 95-75-0

25186-47-4

9 Trichlorotoluenes 2,3,6-TriCT 2,4,5-TriCT α,α,α,-TriCT

2077-46-5 6639-30-1

98-07-7

10 Tetrachlorotoluenes α,α,α,4-TetraCT α,α,α,2-TetraCT 2,6,α,α-TetraCT

5216-25-1 2136-89-2

81-19-6

11 Pentachlorotoluene PCT 877-11-2

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4.7 Chemical Group 7 – CHLORINATED PARAFFINS

CHEMICAL GROUP 7: CHLORINATED PARAFFINS

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All Leather: ISO 18219:2015, weight of sample taken 0.5g, extraction with n-hexane, 60°C, 1h, ultrasonic bath, analysis by LC-MS/MS

No.

RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE

SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT

[mg/kg] DETECTION LIMIT

[mg/kg]

1 Short chain chlorinated paraffin (C10 - C13)

SCCP 85535-84-8 <100 30

2 Medium chain chlorinated paraffin (C14 - C17)

MCCP 85535-85-9 <1000 100

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4.8 Chemical Group 8 - FLAME RETARDANTS

CHEMICAL GROUP 8: FLAME RETARDANTS

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All No.1 to No.13: Solvent extraction followed by GC-MS or LC-MS-MS Boric Acid: Acid digestion followed by ICP analysis TPP / TCP: Extraction with toluene, 2h, 100°C followed by GC-MS

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT

[mg/kg] DETECTION LIMIT

[mg/kg]

1 Tris-(2,3-dibromopropyl)-phosphate TRIS 126-72-7 Usage ban

<10 10

2 Tris(aziridinyl)-phosphineoxide TEPA 545-55-1 Usage ban

<10 10

3 Polybromobiphenyls PBB 59536-65-1

Usage ban

<10 10

4 Bis(2,3-dibromopropylether) of tetrabromobisphenol BDBPT 21850-44-2

5 Bis(2,3-dibromopropyl)phosphate BBP 5412-25-9

6 Octabromodiphenyl Ether OctaBDE 32536-52-0

7 Pentabromodiphenyl Ether PentaBDE 32534-81-9

8 Decabromodiphenyl Ether DecaBDE 1163-19-5

9 Hexabromocyclododecane HBCDD 25637-99-4

3194-55-6

10 Tris-(2-chloroethyl)-phosphate TCEP 115-96-8

11 Tetrabromobisphenol A TBBPA 79-94-7

12 Tris(1,3-dichloro-propyl)-phospate TDCP 13674-87-8

13 2,2-Bis(bromomethyl)-1,3-propanediol BBMP 3296-90-0

14 Boric Acid

10043-35-3 11113-50-1

<1000 50

15 Triphenyl phosphate TPP 115-86-6 Usage ban

<10 10

16 Tricresyl phosphate (all 10 isomers)

o-o-o-TCP o-o-m-TCP o-o-p-TCP

o-m-m-TCP o-p-p-TCP

o-m-p-TCP m-m-m-TCP m-m-p-TCP

p-p-p-TCP p-p-m-TCP

1330-78-5 Usage ban

<10 10

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4.9 Chemical Group 9 - FORMALDEHYDE

CHEMICAL GROUP 9: FORMALDEHYDE

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All

Textile, Wood, Paper: ISO 14184-01:2014, weight of sample taken 1g, extraction with water, 1h, 40°C, sealed vessel followed by UV/VIS (412nm) analysis Leather/other: EN ISO 17226-01:2008, weight of sample taken 2g, extraction with detergent solution, 1h, 40°C, sealed vessel followed by HPLC- UV (360nm) analysis

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE

SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT

[mg/kg] DETECTION LIMIT

[mg/kg]

1 Formaldehyde

50-00-0

Textiles: baby articles 16

5

Textiles: with direct skin contact 75

Textiles: without direct skin contact 300

Leather & Shoes: children <36 months

50

Leather & Shoes 150

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4.10 Chemical Group 10 PART 1 - HEAVY METALS EXTRACTABLE

CHEMICAL GROUP 10 PART 1: HEAVY METALS EXTRACTABLE

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All

Textiles, Trims: Extraction with acid perspiration according to EN ISO 105-E04, no requirements for accessories made from metallic materials *) Leather: EN ISO 17075 after aging, aging conditions: 24 H/ 80 degrees C./ 5% r.H., closed static drying oven, no fresh air supply, no ventilator

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE

SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT

[mg/kg] DETECTION LIMIT

[mg/kg]

Applicable for Textiles & Trims

for baby

wear others

1 Antimony Sb 7440-36-0 <30 <30 0.5

2 Arsenic As 7440-38-2 <0.2 <1.0 0.02

3 Cadmium Cd 7440-43-9 <0.1 <0.1 0.02

4 Chromium Cr 7440-47-3 <1.0 <2.0 0.1

5 Cobalt Co 7440-48-4 <1.0 <4.0 0.1

6 Copper *) Cu 7440-50-8 <25 *) <50 *) 5.0

7 Lead Pb 7439-92-1 <0.2 <1.0 0.1

8 Mercury Hg 7439-97-6 <0.02 <0.02 0.005

9 Nickel Ni 7440-02-0 <1.0 <4.0 0.1

Applicable for Leather Items

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT

[mg/kg] DETECTION LIMIT

[mg/kg]

1 Chromium (VI) Cr (VI) 18540-29-9 Usage ban

<3 1

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4.11 Chemical Group 10 PART 2 - HEAVY METALS SOLUBLE

CHEMICAL GROUP 10 - PART 2: HEAVY METALS SOLUBLE

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All Toys: Extraction with simulated gastric solution acc. to EN 71-3:2014

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT

[mg/kg] DETECTION LIMIT

[mg/kg]

Applicable for Toys

Category I Category II Category III Category I Category II Category III

Solid materials

which may leave

residues on the hands

Fluid or viscous

materials which can

be ingested or have

skin contact

Solid materials

which can be ingested

by biting, tooth

scraping, sucking or

licking

Solid materials

which may leave

residues on the hands

Fluid or viscous

materials which can

be ingested or have

skin contact

Solid materials

which can be ingested by biting, tooth

scraping, sucking or

licking

1 Aluminium Al 7429-90-5 5625 1406 70000 50 50 50

2 Antimony Sb 7440-36-0 45 11.3 560 1 1 10

3 Arsenic As 7440-38-2 3.8 0.9 47 0.5 0.5 10

4 Barium Ba 7440-39-3 1500 375 18750 50 50 50

5 Boron B 7440-42-8 1200 300 15000 50 50 50

6 Cadmium Cd 7440-43-9 1.3 0.3 17 0.1 0.1 5

7 Chromium (III) Cr (III) 7440-47-3 37.5 9.4 460 1 1 1

8 Chromium (VI) Cr (VI) 18540-29-9 0.02 0.005 0.2 0.018 0.005 0.18

9 Cobalt Co 7440-48-4 10.5 2.6 130 0.5 0.5 10

10 Copper Cu 7440-50-8 622.5 156 7700 50 50 50

11 Lead Pb 7439-92-1 13.5 3.4 160 0.5 0.5 10

12 Manganese Mn 7439-96-5 1200 300 15000 50 50 50

13 Mercury Hg 7439-97-6 7.5 1.9 94 0.5 0.5 10

14 Nickel Ni 7440-02-0 75 18.8 930 10 10 10

15 Selenium Se 7782-49-2 37.5 9.4 460 5 5 10

16 Strontium Sr 7440-24-6 4500 1125 56000 50 50 50

17 Tin Sn 7440-31-5 15000 3750 180000 0.36 0.08 4.9

18 Organic Tin Sn various 0.9 0.2 12 -- -- --

19 Zinc Zn 7440-66-6 3750 938 46000 50 50 50

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4.12 Chemical Group 10 PART 3 - HEAVY METALS SOLUBLE

CHEMICAL GROUP 10 - PART 3: HEAVY METALS SOLUBLE

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All Extraction with simulated gastric solution acc. to EN 71-3:1995

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT

[mg/kg] DETECTION LIMIT

[mg/kg]

Applicable for Garment Components

1 Antimony Sb 7440-36-0 <60 5

2 Arsenic As 7440-38-2 <25 2.5

3 Barium Ba 7440-39-3 <1000 5

4 Cadmium Cd 7440-43-9 <75 5

5 Chromium Cr 7440-47-3 <60 5

6 Lead Pb 7439-92-1 <90 5

7 Mercury Hg 7439-97-6 <60 5

8 Selenium Se 7782-49-2 <500 5

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4.13 Chemical Group 10 PART 4 - HEAVY METALS RELEASABLE

CHEMICAL GROUP 10 - PART 4: HEAVY METALS RELEASABLE

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

Applicable for all Metal Items (e.g. earrings, piercings, necklaces, bracelets, chains, anklets, rings, watch straps, buttons, zippers, spectacle frames)

Nickel indication: Rubbing test by CR 12471

Metal - In metal products or parts of products intended to be used for body piercings Nickel release by EN 1811:2015

Abrasion of coated items by EN 12472 *uncertainty included Metal - In metal products or parts of products in direct and

prolonged skin contact

Metal - Spectacle frames and sunglasses intended to come into close and prolonged contact with the skin

Nickel release according to EN 16128 Abrasion of coated items by EN 12472

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT

[µg/cm²/week] Detection Limit [µg/cm²/week]

1 Nickel Ni 7440-02-0

Body piercings <0.35*

0.10 Direct and prolonged

skin contact <0.88*

Spectacle frames and sunglasses

<0.50

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4.14 Chemical Group 11 - HEAVY METALS TOTAL CONTENT

CHEMICAL GROUP 11: HEAVY METALS TOTAL CONTENT

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

Cadmium: EN 1122:2001 Chromium: DIN EN ISO 17072-2 Lead: DIN EN 14602:2012, weight of sample taken 1g, acid or microwave digestion followed by ICP or AAS Cobalt dichloride: Microwave digestion followed by ICP/MS, calculated from the cobalt content Electronic components, packaging materials: IEC 62321

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT

[mg/kg] Detection Limit

[mg/kg]

1 Cadmium Cd 7440-43-9

for all polymer materials: (e.g. beads, pearls, diamonties

(incl. jewellery)

Usage ban

<10 3

for metal parts of jewellery <100

2 Chromium Cr 7440-47-3 chromium free tanned leather <1000 1

3 Lead Pb 7439-92-1 Textiles, leather, plastic,

metal electronics, packaging, jewellery <90 3

4 Cobalt dichloride Co 7646-79-9 only for desiccants Usage ban

<1 1

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4.15 Chemical Group 12 - ISOCYANATES

CHEMICAL GROUP 12: ISOCYANATES

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

Plastic and PU materials DIN EN 13130-8

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT

[mg/kg] Detection Limit

[mg/kg]

1 Hexamethylene diisocyanate HDI 822-06-0 <50

5

2 Isophorone diisocyanate IPDI 4098-71-9 <20

3 2,4-Toluene diisocyanate TDI 584-84-9 <5

4 2,6-Toluene diisocyanate TDI 91-08-7 <5

5 2,2’-Diphenylmethane diisocyanate 2,2’-MDI 2536-05-2 <5

6 2,4’-Diphenylmethane diisocyanate 2,4’-MDI 5873-54-1 <5

7 4,4’-Diphenylmethane diisocyanate 4,4’-MDI 101-68-8 <5

8 Tetramethylxylene diisocyanate TMXD 2778-42-9 <20

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4.16 Chemical Group 13 - ORGANOTIN COMPOUNDS

CHEMICAL GROUP 13: ORGANOTIN COMPOUNDS

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

Plastics, synthetic fibres, prints, coatings

CEN ISO/TS 16179:2012-12; DIN SPEC 91179:2012-12, weight of sample taken 1g, extraction with methanol/ethanol (80/20), 1h, 60°C, ultrasonic bath followed by GC-MS

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE

SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT

[mg/kg] Detection Limit

[mg/kg]

1 Monobutyltin MBT 78763-54-9

baby:

<0.5

others:

<1.0

0.05

2 Monooctyltin MOT 3091-25-6

3 Monomethyltin MMT 23001-26-5

4 Monophenyltin MPhT 2406-68-0

5 Diphenyltin DPhT 1011-95-6

6 Dibutyltin DBT 14488-53-0

7 Dioctyltin DOT 15231-44-4 3542-36-7

8 Dimethyltin DMT 753-73-1

9 Tributyltin TBT 56573-85-4

10 Triphenyltin TPhT 668-34-8

11 Tricyclohexyltin TCyHT 3091-32-5

12 Trioctyltin TOT 2587-76-0

13 Tripropyltin TPT 2279-76-7

14 Trimethyltin TMT 1066-45-1

15 Tetrabutyltin TebT 1461-25-2

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4.17 Chemical Group 14 - pH VALUE

CHEMICAL GROUP 14: pH VALUE

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

Textile, Leather Textile: ISO 3071 (extraction with potassium chloride solution) Leather: ISO 4045

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT [pH value] Detection Limit

1 pH value

baby articles and articles with direct skin contact 4.0 – 7.5

articles without direct skin contact 4.0 – 9.0

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4.18 Chemical Group 15 – PLASTICIZER (PHTHALATES AND OTHERS)

CHEMICAL GROUP 15: PLASTICIZER (PHTHALATES AND OTHERS)

(this restriction is valid for all articles, for all ages and whether or not designed for, or indeed capable of, being placed in the mouth)

PHTHALATES

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

Synthetic fibres, plastics, coatings, prints

Textiles: ISO 14389 Other: Extraction with tetrahydrofurane (THF) followed by precipitation with acetonitrile, determination with GC-MS TPP / TCP: Extraction with toluene, 2h, 100°C followed by GC-MS

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT

[mg/kg] Detection Limit

[mg/kg]

1 Di-iso-butyl phthalate DIBP 84-69-5

Sum of 23 phthalates may not exceed the

limit

<1000

50

2 Di-iso-nonyl phthalate DINP 28553-12-0

3 Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl) phthalate DEHP 117-81-7

4 Di-n-octyl phthalate DNOP 117-84-0

5 Di-iso-decyl phthalate DIDP 26761-40-0

6 Butyl-benzyl phthalate BBP 85-68-7

7 Di-butyl phthalate DBP 84-74-2

8 Di-(C7-C11 alkyl) phthalate linear and branched

DHNUP 68515-42-4

9 Di-(C6-C8 alkyl) phthalate branched

DIHP 71888-89-6

10 Bis-(2-methoxy-ethyl) phthalate BMEP 117-82-8

11 Di-n-hexyl phthalate DHP 84-75-3

12 1,2-Benzenedicarboxylic acid, dipentylester, branched & linear

84777-06-0

13 Di-iso-pentyl phthalate DIPP 605-50-5

14 N-pentyl-iso-pentyl phthalate PIPP 776297-69-9

15 Di-pentyl phthalate DPP 131-18-0

16 Dicyclohexylphthalate DCHP 84-61-7

17 Dinonylphthalate DNP 84-76-4

18 Diethylphthalate DEP 84-66-2

19 Di-n-propylphthalate DPRP 131-16-8

20 Di-iso-octylphthalate DIOP 27554-26-3

21 1,2-Benzenedicarboxylic acid - dihexylester branched & linear

68515-50-4

22 1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-C6-10-alkyl esters

68513-51-5

23 1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid, mixed decyl and hexyl and octyl diesters with ≥ 0.3% of dihexyl phthalate

68648-93-1

OTHERS

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

24 Triphenyl phosphate TPP 115-86-6 Usage ban

<10 10

25 Tricresyl phosphate (all 10 isomers)

TCP 1330-78-5 Usage ban

<10 10

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4.19 Chemical Group 16 - PERFLUORINATED COMPOUNDS

CHEMICAL GROUP 16: PERFLUORINATED COMPOUNDS

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All No. 1-26: CEN/TS 15968, solvent extraction followed by LC-MS No. 27-33: CEN/TS 15968, solvent extraction with MTBE, 40 °C, ultrasonic bath, 1h, GC inlet temperature 130 °C, analysis by GC-MS and further confirmation by LC-MS/MS for no. 30-33

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT

[µg/m²] Detection Limit

[µg/m²]

1 Perfluoro-octane sulfonic acid PFOS 2795-39-3

56773-42-3 1763-23-1

each <1

1

2 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-octane sulfonic acid 1H,1H,2H,2H-

PFOS 27619-97-2

3 Perfluoro-octanoic acid PFOA 335-67-1

4 Perfluoro-butane sulfonic acid PFBS 29420-49-3

375-73-5

5 Perfluoro-hexane sulfonic acid PFHxS 3871-99-6 355-46-4

6 Perfluoro-heptane sulfonic acid PFHpS 375-92-8

7 Perfluoro-decane sulfonic acid PFDS 335-77-3

8 Perfluoro-octane sulphonamide 1H,1H,2H,2H H4PFOS; 6:2

PFOSA 754-91-6

9 N-methylperfluoro-1-octanesulfonamide MeFOSA 31506-32-8

10 N-ethylperfluoro-1-octanesulfonamide EtFOSA 4151-50-2

11 2-(N-methylperfluoro-FASE 1- octanesulfonamido)-ethanol

MeFOSE 24448-09-7

12 2-(N-ethylperfluoro-1-octanesulfonamido)- ethanol EtFOSE 1691-99-2

13 Perfluoro-butanoic acid PFBA 375-22-4

14 Perfluoro-pentanoic acid PFPA 2706-90-3

15 Perfluoro-hexanoic acid PFHxA 307-24-4

16 Perfluoro-heptanoic acid PFHpA 375-85-9

17 Perfluoro-nonanoic acid PFNA 375-95-1

18 Perfluoro-decanoic acid PFDA 335-76-2

19 Perfluoro-undecanoic acid PFUnA 4234-23-5 2058-94-8

20 Perfluoro-dodecanoic acid PFDoA 307-55-1

21 Perfluoro-tridecanoic acid PFTrA 72629-94-8

22 Perfluoro-tetradecanoic acid PFTeA 376-06-7

23 Perfluoro-3,7-dimethyl-octanoic acid PF-3,7-DMOA 172155-07-6

24 7H-Dodecanefluoro-heptanoic acid HPFHpA 1546-95-8

25 2H,2H-Perfluoro-decanoic acid H2PFDA 27854-31-5

26 2H,2H,3H,3H-Perfluoro-undecanoic acid H4PFUnA 34598-33-9

27 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-octylacrylate 6:2 FTA 17527-29-6

28 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro decylacrylate 8:2 FTA 27905-45-9

29 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-dodecylacrylate 10:2 FTA 17741-60-5

30 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-1-hexanol 4:2 FTOH 2043-47-2

<10 10 31 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-1-oktanol 6:2 FTOH 647-42-7

32 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-1-decanol 8:2 FTOH 678-39-7

33 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-1-dodecanol 10:2 FTOH 865-86-1

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4.20 Chemical Group 17 - POLYCYCLIC AROMATIC HYDROCARBONS (PAH)

CHEMICAL GROUP 17: POLYCYCLIC AROMATIC HYDROCARBONS (PAH)

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All AfPS GS 2014:01: Weight of sample taken 0.5g, extraction with toluene, 1h, 60°C, ultrasonic bath, column clean up followed by GC-MS analysis

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT

[mg/kg] Detection Limit

[mg/kg]

1 Benzo(a)pyrene 50-32-8

18 PAH for toys and childcare articles:

<0.5 (each), others:

<1 (each)

Sum of 18 PAH for all articles: <10

0.2

2 Benzo(e)pyrene 192-97-2

3 Benzo(a)anthracene 56-55-3

4 Chrysene 218-01-9

5 Dibenzo(a,h)anthracene 53-70-3

6 Benzo(b)fluoranthene 205-99-2

7 Benzo(j)fluoranthene 205-82-3

8 Benzo(k)fluoranthene 207-08-9

9 Acenaphthene 83-32-9

10 Acenaphthylene 208-96-8

11 Anthracene 120-12-7

12 Fluoranthene 206-44-0

13 Fluorene 86-73-7

14 Indeno(1,2,3-c,d)pyrene 193-39-5

15 Napthalene 91-20-3

16 Phenanthrene 85-01-8

17 Pyrene 129-00-0

18 Benzo(g,h,i)perylene 191-24-2

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4.21 Chemical Group 18 - POLYMERS & POLYMER AUXILIARIES

CHEMICAL GROUP 18 POLYMERS & POLYMER AUXILIARIES

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All

1. Polystyrene: ISO 3175-1 2. PVC (Polyvinyl chloride): Beilstein test as pre-test, confirmation of pre-fail with Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) 3. Technical MDA: Extraction with ethyl acetate, analysis by GC-MS or LC-MS 4. BPA (Bisphenol A): Solvent extraction followed by LC-MS/MS 5. Latex (Natural Rubber): Test kit – Protn-LatexTM from G-Biosciences or comparable test kit for Latex

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT [mg/kg]

Detection Limit [mg/kg]

1 Polystyrene

9003-53-6 for all dry cleanable items Usage ban

2 Polyvinyl chloride PVC 9002-86-2 Forbidden for all articles

3 Formaldehyde, oligomeric reaction products with aniline (technical MDA)

25214-70-4 20 20

4 Bisphenol A BPA 80-05-7 for all food contact products Usage ban

<0.1 0.1

5 Natural Rubber Latex NRL 9006-04-6 Usage ban

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4.22 Chemical Group 19 - SOLVENTS - VOLATILE ORGANIC COMPOUNDS (VOC)

CHEMICAL GROUP 19: SOLVENTS - VOLATILE ORGANIC COMPOUNDS (VOC)

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All No. 1 to No. 22: Headspace at 120 °C, 45 min, GC-MS analysis No. 23 DMFa (N,N-Dimethyl formamide): Extraction with methanol followed by GC-MS, reference to ISO/TS 16189

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT [mg/kg]

Detection Limit [mg/kg]

1 Benzene

71-43-2 <1 1 2 Ethylbenzene

100-41-4 <20 10

3 Styrene

100-42-5 <10 10 4 Toluene

108-88-3 <5 5

5 Xylene

1330-20-7 <20 10 6 Orthoxylene

95-47-6 <20 10

7 Metaxylene

108-38-3 <20 10 8 Paraxylene

106-42-3 <20 10

9 o-Cresol 95-48-7 <20 10 10 p-Cresol 106-44-5 <20 10 11 m-Cresol 108-39-4 <20 10 12 Trichloroethylene

79-01-6 <40 10

13 Tetrachloroethylene

127-18-4 <5 1 14 Cyclohexanone

108-94-1 <100 20

15 Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone MEK 78-93-3 <100 10 16 Naphthalene

91-20-3 <10 10

17 Acetophenone

98-86-2 <20 10 18 2-Phenyl-2-propanole 617-94-7 <20 10 19 2-Ethoxyethanol 110-80-5 <50 10 20 2-Ethoxyethyl acetate 111-15-9 <50 10 21 1,2-Dimethoxyethane DME 110-71-4 <50 10 22 2-Methoxyethanol 109-86-4 <50 10 23 2-Methoxyethyl acetate 110-49-6 <50 10 24 2-Methoxypropyl acetate 70657-70-4 <50 10 25 Triethylene glycol dimethyl ether TEGDME 112-49-2 <50 10 26 Methylene chloride 75-09-2 <5 1 27 2-Ethoxyethyl acetate

111-15-9

<1000 100

28 1-Methyl-2-pyrrolidone

872-50-4

29 1,2,3-Trichloropropane

96-18-4

30 1,2-Dichloroethane

107-06-2

31 Bis-(2-methoxyethyl) ether

111-96-6

32 N,N-dimethyl acetamide DMAC 127-19-5

33 Formamide

75-12-7

34 N,N-Dimethyl formamide DMFa

68-12-2

68-12-2 <300 10

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4.23 Chemical Group 20 - N-NITROSAMINE & N-NITROSAMINE CONVERTIBLE SUBSTANCES

CHEMICAL GROUP 20: N-NITROSAMINE & N-NITROSAMINE CONVERTIBLE SUBSTANCES

MATERIAL SCOPE TEST METHOD

All a) for silencer e.g. teethers and baby soother made from elastomer/rubber: EN 12868, solvent extraction followed by GC-TEA or GC-MS or LC-MS/MS, b) for toys made of elastomer/rubber materials e.g. balloons: EN 71-12

No. RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE SHORTCUT CAS No. C&A LIMIT [mg/kg]

Detection Limit [mg/kg]

1 N-nitrosodimethylamine

62-75-9

for a) silencer (e.g. teethers) and baby - soother from elastomer or rubber, for b) toys from rubber (e.g. balloons) for children < 36 months, which are intended to be put into the mouth

<0.01 0.01

2 N-nitrosodiethylamine 55-18-5

3 N-nitrosodipropylamine 621-64-7

4 N-nitrosodibutylamine 924-16-3

5 N-nitrosomorpholine 59-89-2

6 N-nitrosopiperidine 100-75-4

7 N-nitrosopyrrolidine 930-55-2

8 N-nitrosodibenzylamine 5336-53-8

9 N-nitroso-methyl-N-phenylamine

614-00-6

10 N-nitroso-ethyl-N-phenylamine

612-64-6

11 N-Nitrosamine convertible substances

various <0.1 0.1

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The C&A Guide to chemical use and reasons for restriction 5

5.1 Chemical Group 1 - ALKYLPHENOLS (AP) / ALKYLPHENOL ETHOXYLATES (APEO)

CHEMICAL GROUP 1 ALKYLPHENOLS (AP) / ALKYLPHENOL ETHOXYLATES (APEO)

INDUSTRIAL USAGE

Alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEO) belong to a group of non-ionic surfactants including NPEOs and OPEOs, which are widely used as auxiliary chemicals in different industries. They can be found in Detergents, scouring agents, wetting agents, emulsifiers, softeners, dispersing agents for dyestuffs, impregnating agents, degreasing agents for leather, finishing agents, etc.

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

If NPEOs and OPEOs are released to the environment, they can be degraded back to NPs and OPs, which are toxic to aquatic life, persistent in the environment and can bio-accumulated in body tissue. They are similar to natural estrogen hormones and can disrupt sexual development in some organisms e.g. causing feminization of fish.

5.2 Chemical Group 2 - AZO Dyes

CHEMICAL GROUP 2 AZO Dyes (which by reductive cleavage release one or more aromatic amines listed below)

INDUSTRIAL USAGE

Azo dyes are dyes which contain at least one azo bond (-N=N-) within the molecule. In textiles and apparels, azo dyes are commonly used as colorant.

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

Certain azo dyes can break down during use and release harmful aromatic amines. The listed aromatic amines are classified as carcinogens.

5.3 Chemical Group 3 - DISPERSE DYES (Which are classified to be allergenic)

CHEMICAL GROUP 3 DISPERSE DYES (Which are classified to be allergenic)

INDUSTRIAL USAGE

Disperse dyes are generally water-insoluble colorants that are mainly used for coloring polyester, nylon and cellulose acetate textile fibers. They have extremely high light fastness for very pale colors.

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

Some disperse dyes have an allergenic (sensitizing) potential to human skin and can be considered as a possible threat to health, especially if the dyes exhibit poor perspiration fastness.

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5.4 Chemical Group 4 - DYES (Which are classified to be carcinogenic)

CHEMICAL GROUP 4 DYES (Which are classified to be carcinogenic)

INDUSTRIAL USAGE

Used as textile dyestuffs, see also Chemical Group 2 and 3

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

Although the discussions of genotoxic substances in textiles in recent years have focused on azo dyes splitting off carcinogenic amines, the classification of carcinogenic dyes should not be limited to those azo dyes. These textile dyes classified by their nature may also give rise to mutagenic effects.

5.5 Chemical Group 5 - BIOCIDES & PESTICIDES

CHEMICAL GROUP 5 BIOCIDES & PESTICIDES

INDUSTRIAL USAGE

Biocides are compounds used to kill or harm living organisms.

►Triclosan can be used as disinfectant and as an antibacterial agent in textiles.

►Dimethylfumarate is a fungicide applied to prevent mildew/mould.

►Pentachlorophenol and its substitutes, like tetra- and trichlorophenols, are used as fungicides, insecticides, mollusicidse, algicides, disinfectants, and as anti-fouling paint ingredients, bactericides in the tanning and paper pulp industries. In fact, PCP is one of the most widely used biocides in the wood, textile, leather and paper industries.

►o-Phenylphenol can be used for its preservative properties in leather or as a carrier in dyeing processes.

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

Biocides are biologically active substances, and their toxic and biocidal nature enables them to kill or harm living things. Since biocides by nature are used to have detrimental effects on biological organisms, they are at the same time a serious threat to living organisms that were not intended to be controlled. Biocides have adverse effects on the nervous system when entering into the human body. They may irritate eyes, skin, and the respiratory system.

►Tricosan can damage the liver, kidneys, heart and lungs, suppresses the immune system.

►DMFu is a contact allergen and is able to cause allergenic reactions, even in the smallest concentrations, like fierce eczemas or burn injuries.

►PCP is toxic when inhaled, ingested, or absorbed through the skin. Long term exposure results in reproductive effects, liver and kidney damage, and cancer.

►o-Phenylphenol can cause in contact with eye severe irritation and burns with possible eye damage. For some individuals, o-phenylphenol can also irritate the skin.

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5.6 Chemical Group 6 - CHLORINATED ORGANIC CARRIERS

CHEMICAL GROUP 6 CHLORINATED ORGANIC CARRIERS

INDUSTRIAL USAGE

Chlorinated Organic Carriers are used in batch dyeing of synthetic fibers, particularly polyester fibers, to promote the absorption and diffusion of disperse dyes into the fiber at relative low temperatures. These carriers are also important for dyeing blended fibers of wool and polyester as wool cannot withstand dyeing at high temperatures. Nevertheless, the carriers will remain on the textile material or partially evaporate during subsequent processes.

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

Most of these carriers are toxic to humans and aquatic organisms, and some are even carcinogenic.

5.7 Chemical Group 7 - CHLORINATED PARAFFINS

CHEMICAL GROUP 7 CHLORINATED PARAFFINS

INDUSTRIAL USAGE

Chlorinated paraffin products are polychlorinated alkanes and they are divided into three categories depending on the length of the carbon chain, short (C10-C13), medium (C14-C17), and long (C20-C30). Short chain chlorinated paraffins (SCCP) are used primarily as an extreme pressure lubricant additive in metal working fluids. Other uses are as a flame retardant for plastics. They are also used as a plasticizer in rubber, paints, and adhesives. Further uses are as a degreasing agent in the leather production.

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

There are potential environmental risks associated with the life cycle of chlorinated paraffin. SCCPs are classified as dangerous to the environment, being very toxic to aquatic organisms, and may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment.

5.8 Chemical Group 8 - FLAME RETARDANTS

CHEMICAL GROUP 8 FLAME RETARDANTS

INDUSTRIAL USAGE

Brominated flame retardants are used in a wide range of products like automobiles, electronics and textiles because of their stability and heat resistance.

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

PBBs and PBBEs/PBDEs are as toxic as PCBs and DDT. These compounds are suspected to be carcinogenic, and their stability also makes them dangerous to wildlife. They persist once they enter the environment and food chain, and are likely to pass up the food chain.

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5.9 Chemical Group 9 – FORMALDEHYDE

CHEMICAL GROUP 9 FORMALDEHYDE

INDUSTRIAL USAGE

Formaldehyde is a volatile organic compound whose chemical properties make it suitable to be used as an anti-creasing and anti-shrinking agent. It can even blend with phenol and urea to form polymeric resins. In textiles and apparels, formaldehyde may be found in stiffened and permanent pressed fabric.

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

Despite its multi-function properties, formaldehyde is a highly toxic chemical which can induce irritation to mucous membrane and even cause cancer.

5.10 Chemical Group 10 - HEAVY METALS - EXTRACTABLE, SOLUBLE & RELEASABLE

CHEMICAL GROUP 10 HEAVY METALS - EXTRACTABLE, SOLUBLE & RELEASABLE

INDUSTRIAL USAGE

Heavy metals are found in dyestuffs and used as dye-fixing agents. They also occur in natural fibers like cotton.

►Cadmium is a naturally occurring and abundant metal. In textiles and apparels, cadmium is usually used in plastics, dyes (usually red, orange, yellow and green) and metal accessories. Cadmium is also a well-known stabilizer for the manufacturing of polymers like PVC and PU. As cadmium is relatively hard to oxidize, it is often used as a coating agent.

►Chromium VI is rarely found in nature, but in the chemistry world, it is a fairly good oxidizing agent. In textiles and apparels, chromium VI is usually associated with plastics, dyes and tanned leather.

►Cobalt dichloride is used as a humidity indicator in silica gel.

►Lead is a metal which can be found naturally in some ores. In textiles and apparels, lead is associated with plastics, paints, dyes and metal accessories.

►Nickel is a naturally occurring metal. In textiles and apparels, nickel is usually associated with paints, inks, trims, plastics and metal accessories.

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

Many heavy metals are bio-accumulative when absorbed by human body through perspiration and give cause for concern in health terms such as chronic toxicity, allergenic reactions and cancers.

►Cadmium and its derivatives are often suspected to be carcinogens.

►Chromium VI is a known carcinogen and corrosive to skin. Skin contact with certain chromium VI compounds can cause skin ulcers.

►Cobalt dichloride is a known carcinogen and can also result in reproductive impairments. Furthermore cobalt dichloride is classified as dangerous to the environment, being very toxic to aquatic organisms, and may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment.

►Lead and its derivatives are suspected carcinogens and lead itself can adversely affect the human central nervous system, kidney and immune system.

►Nickel and its derivatives are suspected carcinogens and can cause allergic reactions.

5.11 Chemical Group 11 - HEAVY METALS - TOTAL CONTENT

CHEMICAL GROUP 11 HEAVY METALS - TOTAL CONTENT

INDUSTRIAL USAGE

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see HEAVY METALS - EXTRACTABLE & RELEASABLE Chemical Group 10

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

see HEAVY METALS - EXTRACTABLE & RELEASABLE Chemical Group 10

5.12 Chemical Group 12 – ISOCYANATES

CHEMICAL GROUP 12 ISOCYANATES

INDUSTRIAL USAGE

Isocyanates are the raw materials that make up all polyurethane products. They react with compounds containing alcohol (hydroxyl) groups to produce polyurethane polymers, which are components of polyurethane foams, thermoplastic elastomers, spandex fibers, and polyurethane paints.

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

The reactivity of isocyanates makes them harmful to living tissue. They are toxic and are known to cause asthma in humans, both through inhalation exposure and dermal contact.

5.13 Chemical Group 13 - ORGANOTIN COMPOUNDS

CHEMICAL GROUP 13 ORGANOTIN COMPOUNDS

INDUSTRIAL USAGE

The major commercial applications of organotin compounds are as plastic stabilizers, catalytic agents, industrial biocides, antifouling paints, glass coatings, and pesticides.

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

Organotin compounds are environmental pollutants and particularly harmful to aquatic environments. They can damage liver, kidneys, blood forming process and can cause disruption of the enzyme system.

5.14 Chemical Group - pH VALUE

CHEMICAL GROUP 14 pH VALUE

INDUSTRIAL USAGE

The pH values in garments can be greatly affected by scouring, bleaching, after-treatment and final washing process involving the use of strong acids or alkalis.

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

Human skins are slightly acidic in nature to inhibit bacteria growth. The pH value is a measure of the acidity or basicity of a solution. Solutions with a pH less than 7 are said to be acidic and solutions with a pH greater than 7 are basic or alkaline. Textiles with a too high or low pH may cause irritation to skin when in contact.

5.15 Chemical Group 15 – PLASTICIZER (PHTHALATES AND OTHERS)

CHEMICAL GROUP 15 PHTHALATES

INDUSTRIAL USAGE

Phthalates have diverse uses in modern commerce. One of their primary uses is as a plasticizer in flexible polyvinyl chloride (PVC) products such as blood bags and children's toys, etc. They are also used as fixatives, detergents, lubricating oils, and solvents. As a result of these diverse uses, phthalates are found in many consumer products, such as textiles, footwear, cosmetics.

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

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Phthalates can alter the estrogen level in human and animal hormonal systems, resulting in serious health problems such as cancers and reproductive and developmental impairments.

5.16 Chemical Group 16 - PERFLUORINATED COMPOUNDS

CHEMICAL GROUP 16 PERFLUORINATED COMPOUNDS

INDUSTRIAL USAGE

PFOS (Perfluorooctane sulfonates) related substances have been used to provide soil, oil and water resistance to textiles, apparels, leather, footwear, home furnishings and upholstery, and automotive interiors. In textile processing, PFOS substances are also used as wetting agents to improve the coverage and penetration of substances, achieve finish-on-yarn uniformity, and enhance dyeing and as a binder in non-woven fabrics. PFOS have a potential for long range environmental transport and are classified as persistent organic pollutants (POPs) under the Stockholm Convention, with poorly understood but significant health risks to wildlife and people.

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

PFOS have a potential for long range environmental transport and are classified as persistent organic pollutants (POPs) under the Stockholm Convention, with poorly understood but significant health risks to wildlife and people.

5.17 Chemical Group 17 - POLYCYCLIC AROMATIC HYDROCARBONS (PAH)

CHEMICAL GROUP 17 POLYCYCLIC AROMATIC HYDROCARBONS ( PAH )

INDUSTRIAL USAGE

PAHs are produced by the incomplete combustion of organic materials such as wood, oil and animal fats. PAHs are less water-soluble, evaporable and degradable and attach themselves to organic particulate matter. PAH contaminations have been found not only in rubber but also in various plastics.

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

The assumption that PAHs in consumer products can be considered a possible source of risk is suggested by the fact that, for a number of these substances, carcinogenicity and mutagenicity as well as toxicity to reproduction (so-called CMR properties) have been demonstrated in experiments.

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5.18 Chemical Group 18 - POLYMERS & POLYMER AUXILIARIES

CHEMICAL GROUP 18 POLYMERS & POLYMER AUXILIARIES

INDUSTRIAL USAGE

Polystyrene: Buttons, beads, sequins, and other decorations made of polystyrene are commonly found to melt on exposure to dry-cleaning solvent.

PVC has been found to be useful in many applications including packaging, furniture, household appliances, electric/electronic appliances, automotive and many others. In order to provide the range of properties needed in finished products, PVC polymer is mixed with a number of additives such as fillers, stabilizers, lubricants, plasticizers, pigments, and flame retardants.

Technical MDA is mainly used as precursor to methylene diphenyl diisocyanate (MDI) for PU production and as hardener for epoxy resins.

Bisphenol A (BPA) is used in the production of epoxy resins and plastics.

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

When PVC is heated or disposed of, there is a potential risk of emitting a number of degradable compounds, such as highly toxic dioxins and hydrogen chloride. The German Federal Ministry of the Environment (Germany) which recommends a phase-out of flexible PVC for those applications where safer alternatives are available.

Technical MDA is classified as carcinogenic Cat.1B

5.19 Chemical Group 19 - SOLVENTS - VOLATILE ORGANIC COMPOUNDS (VOC)

CHEMICAL GROUP 19 SOLVENTS - VOLATILE ORGANIC COMPOUNDS (VOC)

INDUSTRIAL USAGE

Organic solvents are widely used in industry and in our daily life’s. They can be found in adhesives, paints and sprays, and are used in dry-cleaning and printing processes.

N,N-Dimethylformamide (DMFa) is a common solvent for chemical reactions. Dimethyl formamide is used in the production of acrylic fibers, polyurethane and plastics.

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

Benzene is classified as being carcinogenic and toxic and can cause reproductive defects.

Ethylbenzene, Styrene, Xylene and Cyclohexanone are classified as being harmful.

Toluene is classified as being harmful and is under suspicion to cause reproductive defects.

Trichlorethylene is classified as being toxic, carcinogenic and toxic to aquatic organisms. It may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment.

Tetrachlorethylene is under suspicion to cause cancer. It is classified as being toxic to aquatic organisms. It may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment.

Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone is classified as irritant.

N,N-Dimethylformamide (DMFa) has been linked to cancer in humans, and it is under suspicion to cause birth defects.

Naphthalene is classified as being harmful and it can cause cancer. It may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment.

5.20 Chemical Group 20 - N-NITROSAMINE & N-NITROSAMINE CONVERTIBLE SUBSTANCES

CHEMICAL GROUP 20 N-NITROSAMINE & N-NITROSAMINE CONVERTIBLE SUBSTANCES

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INDUSTRIAL USAGE

Nitrosamines are used in the manufacture of some cosmetics, pesticides, and in rubber products.

TOXICOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

Many Nitrosamines are carcinogenic.

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C&A – Authorized Laboratories 6Chemical tests must be carried out by an authorized C&A laboratory.

C&A - Authorized Laboratories Country Corresponding homepage

Bureau Veritas Group Worldwide http://www.bureauveritas.com/wps/wcm/connect/bv_com/Group

Intertek Group Worldwide http://www.intertek.com/

SGS Group Worldwide http://www.sgs.com/

Any other lab must be ISO/IEC 17025 accredited for the chemical tests and can only be used after approval and written confirmation by the C&A chemical specialist.

Translation of Units – Conversion Table for mg/kg (ppm) and % 7This conversion table for mg/kg (ppm) and % can be used to avoid mistakes in converting of units.

mg/kg value % value

0.01 0.000,001

0.1 0.000,01

1 0.000,1

10 0.001

100 0.01

1,000 0.1

10,000 1

100,000 10

1,000,000 100

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Manufacturing Restricted Substance List (MRSL) 8C&A is one of the founding members of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) brand collaboration. In the ZDHC Joint Roadmap, ZDHC brands committed to define and develop a Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) for the apparel and footwear industry. The ZDHC MRSL, which has been adopted by C&A, has defined usage bans and a common set of limits for chemical formulations used in apparel and footwear production. (see Appendix) The purpose of the ZDHC MRSL is to provide the industry with a harmonized approach to managing hazardous chemicals used during the processing of raw materials. The requirement is to prevent these listed hazardous substances, which maybe of a concern to occupational safety and the environment, from being intentionally used during manufacturing and related processes. The ZDHC MRSL goes beyond the requirements of the C&A RSL which only limits those substances that are not to be present in finished products. The ZDHC MRSL should be communicated widely across the supply chain including raw material suppliers, all sub-contractors and factories assembling or manufacturing garments and footwear for C&A. C&A expect that suppliers and factories work in partnership with their chemical suppliers to ensure that listed substances are not presented in chemical formulations above set limits. C&A suppliers and factories are expected to, at a minimum, obtain self-declarations from chemical suppliers stating clear conformance to the ZDHC MRSL. C&A will require factories with wet-processing, specifically those involved with dyeing, finishing, printing and washing, to conduct, on request, wastewater sampling to screen for hazardous substances listed on the MRSL and a sustainable chemical management audit including an in-depth review of the chemical inventory. The testing parameters, test methods and detection limits for waste water testing are set out in Chapter 8.1. If you are found to contravene any element of this MRSL policy or your on-site chemical management performance is not meeting C&A standards then a short-term corrective action plan will be put into place with approval from the factories top management and C&A stating necessary remediation actions and timelines. At the time of writing, the current version of the ZDHC MRSL is Version 1.1, as attached in Appendix 10. The ZDHC MRSL is a living document and will be updated frequently. To check your adherence to the latest version of the MRSL visit http://www.roadmaptozero.com/programme/ More information on C&A’s work in the area of chemicals management can be found in the most recent Corporate Responsibility (CR) report or on-line at http://www.c-and-a.com/uk/en/corporate/company/sustainability/supply/chemicals-management/. If you have questions concerning the ZDHC MRSL and its implementation please e-mail [email protected] Note: The ZDHC MRSL does not replace our C&A Restricted Substances List (RSL). Chemical formulations also must fully comply with all C&A RSL requirements and all applicable legal restrictions, including any subsequent restrictions that establish more strict limits.

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8.1 The testing parameters, test methods and detection limits for waste water testing

Group Substance CAS No. Detection Limit (ug/L)/(ppb)

Name of the method

1. AP & APEO Octylphenol OP Various 1

With Reference to DIN EN ISO 18857 and followed by GC/MS or LC/MS analysis

Nonylphenol NP Various 1

Octylphenol Ethoxylates OP1EO Various 5

Nonylphenol Ethoxylates OPEO (2-16) Various 5

Nonylphenol Ethoxylates NP1EO Various 5

Nonylphenol Ethoxylates NPEO (2-18) Various 5

2. Phthalates ( ortho-phthalates )

Butyl benzyl phthalate (BBP) 85-68-7 1

Solvent extraction with GC/MS analysis or LC/MS analysis

Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) 84-74-2 1

Di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP) 117-81-7 1

Di-n-octyl phthalate (DNOP) 117-84-0 1

Di-iso-nonyl phthalate (DINP) 28553-12-0 1

Di-iso-decyl phthalate (DIDP) 26761-40-0 1

Dimethyl phthalate (DMP) 131-11-3 1

Diethyl phthalate (DEP) 84-66-2 1

Di-n-propyl phthalate (DPRP) 131-16-8 1

Di-iso-butyl phthalate (DIBP) 84-69-5 1

Di-cyclohexyl phthalate (DCHP) 84-61-7 1

Di-n-hexyl phthalate (DnHP) 84-75-3 1

Dinonyl phthalate (DNP) 84-76-4 1

Di-iso-octyl phthalate (DIOP) 27554-26-3 1

Dimethoxyethyl phthalate (DMEP) 117-82-8 1

Di-(C7-C11 alkyl) phthalate linear and branched (DHNUP) 68515-42-4 1

Di-iso-heptyl Phthalate (DIHpP) 71888-89-6 1

Di-penty Phthalate (n-, iso-, or mixed), (DPP) 605-50-5 / 776297-69-9 / 131-18-0 /84777-06-0

1

3. Flame Retardants Polybromobiphenyls (PBBs) 59536-65-1 0.05

Solvent extraction with GC/MS or LC/MS analysis

Monobromobiphenyl (MonoBB) - 0.05

Dibromobiphenyl (DiBB) - 0.05

Tribromobiphenyl (TriBB) - 0.05

Tetrabromobiphenyl (TetraBB) - 0.05

Pentabromobiphenyl (PentaBB) - 0.05

Hexabromobiphenyl (HexaBB) - 0.05

Heptabromobiphenyl (HeptaBB) - 0.05

Octabromobiphenyl (OctaBB) - 0.05

Nonabromobiphenyl (NonaBB) - 0.05

Decabromobipheny (DecaBB) 13654-09-6 0.05

Polybromodiphenyl ethers (PBDEs) Various 0.05

Monobromodiphenyl ethers (MonoBDE) - 0.05

Dibromodiphenyl ethers (DiBDE) - 0.05

Tribromodiphenyl ethers (TriBDE) - 0.05

Tetrabromodiphenyl ethers (TetraBDE) 40088-47-9 0.05

Pentabromodiphenyl ether (PentaBDE) 32534-81-9 0.05

Hexabromodiphenyl ethers (HexaBDE) 36483-60-0 0.05

Heptabromodiphenyl ethers (HeptaBDE) 68928-80-3 0.05

Octabromodiphenyl ether (OctaBDE) 32536-52-0 0.05

Nonabromodiphenyl ethers (NonaBDE) 63936-56-1 0.05

Decabromodiphenyl ether (DecaBDE) 1163-19-5 0.05

Tris(2,3-dibromopropyl) phosphate (TRIS/TDBPP) 126-72-7 0.5

Tetrabromobisphenol A (TBBPA) 79-94-7 0.5

Bis(2,3-dibromopropyl) phosphate (BIS/BDBPP) 5412-25-9 0.5

Hexabromocyclododecane (HBCDD) 3194-55-6 0.5

2,2-Bis(bromomethyl)-1,3-propanediol (BBMP) 3296-90-0 0.5

Tris(aziridinyl)-phosphineoxide (TEPA) 545-55-1 0.5

Bis(2,3-dibromopropylether) of Tetrabromobisphenol (BDBPT) 21850-44-2 0.5

Tris(2-chloroethyl) phosphate (TCEP) 115-96-8 0.5 Solvent extraction with GC/MS or LC/MS analysis Tris(1,3-dichloro-isopropyl) phosphate (TDCP) 13674-87-8 0.5

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Group Substance CAS No. Detection Limit (ug/L)/(ppb)

Name of the method

4. Azo Dyes 4-Aminodiphenyl 92-67-1 0.5

With reference to EN 14362-1 & 3 and followed by GC/MS and HPLC Analysis.

Benzidine 92-87-5 0.5

4-Chloro-o-toluidine 95-69-2 0.5

2-Naphthylamine 91-59-8 0.5

o-Aminoazotoluene 97-56-3 0.5

5-nitro-o-toluidine 99-55-8 0.5

4-Chloroaniline 106-47-8 0.5

4-Methoxy-m-phenylenediamine 615-05-4 0.5

4,4`-Diaminodiphenylmethane 101-77-9 0.5

3,3`-Dichlorobenzidine 91-94-1 0.5

3,3`-Dimethoxybenzidine 119-90-4 0.5

3,3`-Dimethylbenzidine 119-93-7 0.5

4,4`-Methylenedi-o-toluidine 838-88-0 0.5

p-Cresidine 120-71-8 0.5

4,4`-Methylene-bis-(2-chloraniline) 101-14-4 0.5

4,4`-Oxydianiline 101-80-4 0.5

4,4`-Thiodianiline 139-65-1 0.5

o-Toluidine 95-53-4 0.5

4-Methyl-m-phenylenediamine 95-80-7 0.5

2,4,5-Trimethylaniline 137-17-7 0.5

o-Anisidine 90-04-0 0.5

4-Aminoazobenzene 60-09-3 0.5

2,4-Xylidine 95-68-1 0.5

2,6-Xylidine 87-62-7 0.5

Aniline 62-53-3 0.5

5. Organotin Compounds Monobutyltin (MBT) Various 0.01

With reference to DIN EN17353 and followed by GC/MS analysis.

Dibutyltin (DBT) Various 0.01

Dioctyltin (DOT) Various 0.01

Tributyltin (TBT) Various 0.01

Triphenyltin (TPhT) Various 0.01

Tricyclohexyltin (TCyT) Various 0.01

Trioctyltin (TOT) Various 0.01

Tripropyltin (TPT) Various 0.01

Monooctyltin (MOT) Various 0.01

Diphenyltin (DPhT) Various 0.01

Tetrabutyltin (TeBT) 1461-25-2 0.01

6. PFCs Perfluoro-n-octanoic acid (PFOA) 335-67-1/ 335-95-5 0.01

LC/MS analysis

Perfluorobutanesulfonic acid (PFBS) 375-73-5 0.01

Perfluorooctanesulfonic acid (PFOS) 1763-23-1 0.01

Perfluorohexanesulfonic acid (PFHxS) 355-46-4 0.01

Perfluoro-n-hexanoic acid (PFHxA) 307-24-4 0.01

Perfluorobutyric Acid (PFBA) 375-22-4 0.01

7. Chlorobenzenes Chlorobenzene 108-90-7 0.5

Solvent extraction with GC/MS analysis

Dichlorobenzenes Various 0.5

1,2-Dichlorobenzene 95-50-1 0.5

1,3-Dichlorobenzene 541-73-1 0.5

1,4-Dichlorobenzene 106-46-7 0.5

Trichlorobenzenes Various 0.5

1,2,3-Trichlorobenzene 87-61-6 0.5

1,2,4-Trichlorobenzene 120-82-1 0.5

1,3,5-Trichlorobenzene 108-70-3 0.5

Tetrachlorobenzenes Various 0.5

1,2,3,4-Tetrachlorobenzene 634-66-2 0.5

1,2,3,5-Tetrachlorobenzene 634-90-2 0.5

1,2,4,5-Tetrachlorobenzene 95-94-3 0.5

Pentachlorobenzene 608-93-5 0.5

Hexachlorobenzene 118-74-1 0.5

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Group Substance CAS No. Detection Limit (ug/L)/(ppb)

Name of the method

8. Chlorinated Solvents 1,2-Dichloroethane 107-06-2 1

Headspace GC-MS analysis.

1,1-Dichloroethylene 75-35-4 1

Methylene Chloride 75-09-2 1

cis-1,2-Dichloroethylene 156-59-2 1

trans-1,2-Dichloroethylene 156-60-5 1

Chloroform 67-66-3 1

1,1,1-Trichloroethane 71-55-6 1

Carbon Tetrachloride 56-23-5 1

Trichloroethylene 79-01-6 1

1,1,2-Trichloroethane 79-00-5 1

1,1,1,2-Tetrachloroethane 630-20-6 1

Tetrachloroethylene 127-18-4 1

1,1-Dichloroethane 75-34-3 1

1,1,2,2-Tetrachloroethane 79-34-5 1

9. Chlorophenols Pentachlorophenol (PCP) 87-86-5 0.5

Solvent extraction and derivatisation with acetic anhydride followed by GC/MS analysis.

Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP) Various 0.5

2,3,4,5-Tetrachlorophenol 4901-51-3 0.5

2,3,4,6-Tetrachlorophenol 58-90-2 0.5

2,3,5,6-Tetrachlorophenol 935-95-5 0.5

Trichlorophenol (TriCP) Various 0.5

2,4,6-Trichlorophenol 88-06-2 0.5

2,3,5-Trichlorophenol 933-78-8 0.5

2,4,5-Trichlorophenol 95-95-4 0.5

3,4,5-Trichlorophenol 609-19-8 0.5

2,3,4-Trichlorophenol 15950-66-0 0.5

2,3,6-Trichlorophenol 933-75-5 0.5

Dichlorophenol (DiCP) Various 0.5

2,3-Dichlorophenol 576-24-9 0.5

3,4-Dichlorophenol 95-77-2 0.5

2,4-Dichlorophenol 120-83-2 0.5

2,5-Dichlorophenol 583-78-8 0.5

2,6-Dichlorophenol 87-65-0 0.5

3,5-Dichlorophenol 591-35-5 0.5

Mono Chlorophenol (MonoCP) Various 0.5

2-Chlorophenol 95-57-8 0.5

3-Chlorophenol 108-43-0 0.5

4-Chlorophenol 106-48-9 0.5

10. Short Chained Chlorinated Paraffins ( SCCPs )

Short chain chlorinated paraffins (SCCPs) 85535-84-8 5 Solvent extraction with GC/MS analysis

11. Heavy Metals Cadmium( Cd ) 7440-43-9 0.1

Acid Digestion with ICP analysis

Lead( Pb ) 7439-92-1 1

Mercury( Hg ) 7439-97-6 0.05

Cobalt( Co ) 7440-48-4 1

Nickel( Ni ) 7440-02-0 1

Antonmy( Sb ) 7440-36-0 1

Arsenic( As ) 7440-38-2 1

Copper( Cu ) 7440-50-8 1

Zinc( Zn ) 7440-66-6 1

Chromium( Cr ) 7440-47-3 1

Manganese( Mn ) 7439-96-5 1

Chromium VI( CrVI ) 18540-29-9 1 Solvent extraction and derivatisation followed by UV analysis

12. Cyanide ( CN- ) Cyanide( CN-) Various 20

With reference to APHA 4500 CN—B,C&E and followed by UV analysis

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Glossary 9

9.1 Definitions

Shell material parts Shell material is defined as outer layer fabric material including both main body and sleeve areas.

Lining material parts Lining material is defined as all inner layer of fabric material including both main body and sleeve areas.

Pocketing material parts Pocketing material is defined as an inner layer fabric in pocket areas.

Small material parts Small material parts are defined as all parts, which are not identified as shell, lining or pocketing materials.

Articles Articles are defined as objects joined with other objects in order to form more complex products. Each of the parts or components of a complex product.

Component Component is defined all material or parts to be included as part of a finished, packaged and labelled product.

Product A product is defined to be composed of multiple material parts /components/articles.

Accessible parts Accessible parts are defined as all parts of a product, which are able to be reached or touched.

Inaccessible parts Inaccessible components are defined as material or parts cannot be reached or touched under normal circumstances, like foams, paddings, fillings, seam backing tape, reinforcement tape

Skin contact components Skin contact component is defined the material or part can be contacted to skin in normal circumstances, like e.g. shell fabric, lining fabric, pocketing, waist band label

Prolonged Skin Contact Components

Prolonged contact with the skin is defined as contact with the skin of potentially more than 10 minutes on three or more occasions within two weeks, or

30 minutes on one or more occasions within two weeks.

The skin contact time of 10 minutes applies when there are three or more occasions of skin contacts within a two-week time period. The skin contact time of 30 minutes applies when there is at least one occasion within a two-week time period.

Link: http://echa.europa.eu/documents/10162/13641/nickel_restriction_prolonged_contact_skin_en.pdf

Coating Coating is defined as liquid to change to a solid layer or film spreading over a surface for protection or decoration

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9.2 Abbreviations BfR German Federal Institute of Risk Assessment

CAS Chemical Abstracts Service - Registry Number

CEN European Committee for Standardisation

COTAB Coordination Office for Technical Assistant to Buying

DAD Diode-Array Detector

DIN German Institute for Standardisation (Deutsches Institut für Normung)

DGCCRF French General Directorate of Competition Consumption and Fraud Repression

EN European Standard

EPA Environmental Protection Agency

ETAD Ecological and Toxicological Association of Dyes and Organic Pigments Manufacturers

GC Gas Chromatography

GIN General Information Network

GSM Global Sourcing Management

GSS Gold Seal Sample

GT Garment Technician

HPLC High Performance Liquid Chromatography

HQ Head Quarters

LC Liquid Chromatography

LFGB German Food and Feed Code

ISO International Organization for Standardization

IEC International Electro technical Commission

MRSL Manufacturing Restricted Substance List

MS Mass Spectrometry

PDP Product Data Package

PSM Product Safety Manager

PD&D Product Development and Design

QAD Quality Assurance & Development

QAS Quality Assurance Sourcing

QAR Quality Assurance Result

QA5 Quality Assurance 5 Form

QSM Quality & Safety Management

QUIS Quality Interactive System

RSL Restricted Substances List

SA Sample Approval

SBD Sustainable Business Development

SCIL Safer chemical ingredients list (SCIL)

SOP Standard Operating Procedure

SVHC Substances of Very High Concern

ZDHC Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals

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C&A Chemical Policy (RSL & MRSL)

50

Approval date: 27/05/2016

Effective date: 01/08/2016

Effective until further notice

APPENDIX - Manufacturing Restricted Substance List (MRSL) Version 1.1 10

(2015) of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC )

Programme

On the following pages you will find the Manufacturing Restricted Substance List (MRSL) Version 1.1 from 2015 from the ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals Programme). This MRSL & Conformance Guidance comprises the same content as the MRSL & Conformance Guidance available under http://www.roadmaptozero.com/programme/.

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DECEMBER 2015 LEADERS IN ADVANCING ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY 1

1 Background

In the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Joint Roadmap, Version 2, ZDHC brands committed to define and develop a Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) for the apparel and footwear industry. In doing so, brands recognised the value of addressing hazardous substances potentially used and discharged into the environment during manufacturing and related processes deep within our supply chain – not just those substances that could be present in finished products. In June 2014, the ZDHC brands achieved a significant milestone and published the first version of the ZDHC MRSL.

2 Purpose

The intent of the ZDHC MRSL is to provide brands and suppliers with a harmonised approach to managing chemicals during the processing of raw materials within the apparel and footwear supply chain. The ZDHC MRSL achieves this by providing a clear list of priority chemicals and specifying the maximum concentration limit of each substance within commercial chemical formulations.

The ZDHC MRSL is divided into sections that focus on a specific raw material. This accounts for the differences between the creation and processing of the material types used within our industry and the need to set applicable limits to reflect the functional use of these chemicals. The MRSL should be communicated to raw material suppliers, including sub-contractors and factories assembling or manufacturing garments and footwear. To support our goal of using MRSL compliant chemical formulations, ZDHC brands also expect that material suppliers and factories will communicate with their chemical suppliers to ensure that listed substances are not present in chemical formulations above established limits.

Note: The ZDHC MRSL does not replace applicable national environmental or workplace safety restrictions. Worker exposure to chemical substances listed in this document, along with other hazardous substances, must not exceed occupational exposure limits. Chemical formulations also must comply with all applicable legal restrictions, including any subsequent restrictions that establish more strict limits. The ZDHC MRSL does not replace legal or brand-specific restrictions on hazardous substances in finished products.

3 Definitions

MRSL The ZDHC MRSL is a list of chemical substances subject to a usage ban (see Usage Ban, page 2). The MRSL applies to chemicals used in facilities that process materials and trim parts for use in apparel and footwear. Chemicals in the ZDHC MRSL include solvents, cleaners, adhesives, paints, inks, detergents, dyes, colourants, auxiliaries, coatings and finishing agents used during raw material production, wet-processing, maintenance, wastewater treatment, sanitation and pest control. There should be no intentional use of MRSL-listed substances in facilities that process materials used in the production of apparel and footwear. MRSL limits apply to substances in commercially available chemical formulations and not those from earlier stages of chemical synthesis.

Note: Threshold Limit values on restricted substances in chemical formulations are in some cases substantially higher than limits on restricted substances in finished products. This is because restricted substances in finished products are almost always found in smaller concentrations than in the chemical formulations used to produce them. Chemical formulations are highly concentrated before being diluted upon application to textiles and other materials.

Manufacturing Restricted Substances List Version 1.1 Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals Programme

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DECEMBER 2015 LEADERS IN ADVANCING ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY 2

Chemical Substance A chemical substance is a chemical element and its compounds in the natural state or obtained by any manufacturing process (REACH, 2014).1 A chemical substance is usually identifiable by a single, unique Chemical Abstracts Service (CAS) number or Colour Index (CI) number. The ZDHC MRSL will primarily focus on chemical substances listed by CAS number and CI number, but also will include groups of substances for which listing individual substances is not practical.

Commercial Chemical Formulation A commercial chemical formulation is usually a proprietary blend of several chemical substances that is available for purchase from chemical suppliers under their own trade name.

Usage Ban A usage ban indicates that the ZDHC MRSL-listed chemical substance or group of substances may not be used to achieve a desired function or effect during production of the raw material or product (that is, no intentional use). This usage ban extends to other uses within a facility like cleaning and maintenance. Due to the existence of manufacturing impurities in chemical formulations, a minor or trace amount of the restricted substance is permitted. Chemical formulations containing restricted substances that exceed limits are not compliant with the ZDHC MRSL.

4 MRSL Creation Process The ZDHC MRSL includes relevant substances from the original 11 priority chemical groups in the Joint Roadmap2 along with additional substances discussed with qualified experts from the ZDHC Technical Advisory Committee (TAC) and signatory brands. Several of the listed substances are regulated in finished products and have been successfully restricted by ZDHC brands for years. Though already restricted by ZDHC brands, their inclusion on the list keep it consistent with existing industry standards. Where possible, the content of the ZDHC MRSL was peer-reviewed by independent third-party technical experts and industry associations related to the production of our key raw materials. Collaboration with leading technical experts allows the ZDHC Programme to develop a MRSL that pragmatically represents progress and supports our long-term goal of zero discharge.

5 MRSL Instructions MRSL Chapters Chapter 1: MRSL for Textiles and Synthetic Leather Processing

This section applies to chemical formulations and substances used during the creation and wet processing of textile fibres and during the creation and processing of synthetic leather.

Chapter 2: MRSL for Natural leather Processing This section applies to chemical formulations and substances used throughout the production of natural leather, from raw-hide to finished leather.

1 “A chemical element and its compounds in the natural state or obtained by any manufacturing process, including any additive necessary to preserve its stability and any impurity deriving from the process used, but excluding any solvent which may be separated without affecting the stability of the substance or changing its composition.” http://www.reachonline.eu/REACH/EN/REACH_EN/article3.html. Accessed May 8, 2014.

2 These are alkylphenol ethoxylates/alkylphenols (APEOs/APEs), brominated and chlorinated flame retardants, chlorinated solvents, chlorobenzenes, chlorophenols, heavy metals, organotin compounds (e.g., TBT), perfluorinated and polyfluorinated chemicals (PFCs), phthalates (ortho-phthalates), short-chain chlorinated paraffins (SCCPs) and azo dyes that may release carcinogenic amines as defined in Annex XVII of REACH.

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DECEMBER 2015 LEADERS IN ADVANCING ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY 3

MRSL Groups Group A: Raw Material and Finished Product Supplier Guidance

Group A substances are banned from intentional use in facilities that process raw materials and manufacture finished products. Please refer to the AFIRM guidance document for the lowest agreed upon material or finished product limits among AFIRM brands: http://www.afirm-group.com/rsl-guidance/. See brand RSLs for individual requirements.

Group B: Chemical Supplier Formulation Limit Group B substances are restricted to concentration limits in chemical formulations commercially available from chemical suppliers. These limits ban intentional use while allowing for reasonable expected manufacturing impurities that should be consistently achievable by responsible chemical manufacturers.3

3 Safety Data Sheets (SDS) only list substances present at concentrations of 1000 ppm or greater. Suppliers must communicate with chemical suppliers to ensure MRSL limits are met.

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DECEMBER 2015 LEADERS IN ADVANCING ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY 4

CHAPTER 1: MRSL for Textiles and Synthetic Leather Processing

CAS No. Substance

Group A: Raw Material and

Finished Product Supplier Guidance

Group B: Chemical Supplier Commercial Formulation Limit

Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing

General Techniques for Analysing Chemicals

Alkylphenol (AP) and Alkylphenol Ethoxylates (APEOs): including all isomers

104-40-5 11066-49-2 25154-52-3 84852-15-3

Nonylphenol (NP), mixed isomers

No intentional use

250 ppm

APEOs can be used as or found in: detergents, scouring agents, spinning oils, wetting agents, softeners, emulsifier/dispersing agents for dyes and prints, impregnating agents, de-gumming for silk production, dyes and pigment preparations, polyester padding and down/feather fillings.

Liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS), gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS)

140-66-9 1806-26-4

27193-28-8 Octylphenol (OP), mixed isomers 250 ppm

9002-93-1 9036-19-5

68987-90-6 Octylphenol ethoxylates (OPEO) 500 ppm

9016-45-9 26027-38-3 37205-87-1 68412-54-4

127087-87-0

Nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEO) 500 ppm

Chlorobenzenes and Chlorotoluenes

95-50-1 1,2-dichlorobenzene

No intentional use

1000 ppm Chlorobenzenes and chlorotoluenes (chlorinated aromatic hydrocarbons) can be used as carriers in the dyeing process of polyester or wool/polyester fibres. They can also be used as solvents.

GC-MS

Other isomers of mono-, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- and hexa- chlorobenzene and mono-, di-, tri-, tetra- and penta- chlorotoluene

Sum = 200 ppm

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DECEMBER 2015 LEADERS IN ADVANCING ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY 5

CAS No. Substance

Group A: Raw Material and

Finished Product Supplier Guidance

Group B: Chemical Supplier Commercial Formulation Limit

Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing

General Techniques for Analysing Chemicals

Chlorophenols

25167-83-3 Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP)

No intentional use

Sum = 20 ppm

Chlorophenols are polychlorinated compounds used as preservatives or pesticides. Pentachlorophenol (PCP) and tetrachlorophenol (TeCP) have been used in the past to prevent mould when storing/ transporting, raw hides and leather. They are now regulated and should not be used.

GC-MS

EN ISO 17070

87-86-5 Pentachlorophenol (PCP)

Sum = 50 ppm

4901-51-3 2,3,4,5-tetrachlorophenol

58-90-2 2,3,4,6-tetrachlorophenol

935-95-5 2,3,5,6-tetrachlorophenol

95-57-8 2-chlorophenol

120-83-2 2,4-dichlorophenol

583-78-8 2,5-dichlorophenol

87-65-0 2,6-dichlorophenol

95-95-4 2,4,5-trichlorophenol

88-06-2 2,4,6-trichlorophenol

591-35-5 3,5-dichlorophenol

576-24-9 2,3-dichlorophenol

95-77-2 3,4-dichlorophenol

108-43-0 3-chlorophenol

106-48-9 4-chlorophenol

15950-66-0 2,3,4-trichlorophenol

933-78-8 2,3,5-trichlorophenol

609-19-8 3,4,5-trichlorophenol

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DECEMBER 2015 LEADERS IN ADVANCING ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY 6

CAS No. Substance

Group A: Raw Material and

Finished Product Supplier Guidance

Group B: Chemical Supplier Commercial Formulation Limit

Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing

General Techniques for Analysing Chemicals

Dyes – Azo (Forming Restricted Amines)

101-14-4 4,4’-methylene-bis-(2-chloro-aniline)

No intentional use

150 ppm

Azo dyes and pigments are colourants that incorporate one or several azo groups (-N=N-) bound with aromatic compounds. Thousands of azo dyes exist, but only those that degrade to form the listed cleavable amines are restricted. Azo dyes that release these amines are regulated and should no longer be used for dyeing of textiles.

LC, GC

101-77-9 4,4’-methylenedianiline 150 ppm

101-80-4 4,4’-oxydianiline 150 ppm

106-47-8 4-chloroaniline 150 ppm

119-90-4 3,3’-dimethoxylbenzidine 150 ppm

119-93-7 3,3’-dimethylbenzidine 150 ppm

120-71-8 6-methoxy-m-toluidine 150 ppm

137-17-7 2,4,5-trimethylaniline 150 ppm

139-65-1 4,4’-thiodianiline 150 ppm

60-09-3 4-aminoazobenzene 150 ppm

615-05-4 4-methoxy-m-phenylenediamine 150 ppm

838-88-0 4,4’-methylenedi-o-toluidine 150 ppm

87-62-7 2,6-xylidine 150 ppm

90-04-0 o-anisidine 150 ppm

91-59-8 2-naphthylamine 150 ppm

91-94-1 3,’3-dichlorobenzidine 150 ppm

92-67-1 4-aminodiphenyl 150 ppm

92-87-5 Benzidine 150 ppm

95-53-4 o-toluidine 150 ppm

95-68-1 2,4-xylidine 150 ppm

95-69-2 4-chloro-o-toluidine 150 ppm

95-80-7 4-methyl-m-phenylenediamine 150 ppm

97-56-3 o-aminoazotoluene 150 ppm

99-55-8 5-nitro-o-toluidine 150 ppm

Dyes – Navy Blue Colourant

118685-33-9 Component 1: C39H23ClCrN7O12S∙2Na No intentional use 250 ppm

Navy Blue colourants are regulated and should no longer be used for dyeing of textiles.

LC Not Allocated Component 2: C46H30CrN10O20S2∙3Na

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DECEMBER 2015 LEADERS IN ADVANCING ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY 7

CAS No. Substance

Group A: Raw Material and

Finished Product Supplier Guidance

Group B: Chemical Supplier Commercial Formulation Limit

Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing

General Techniques for Analysing Chemicals

Dyes – Carcinogenic or Equivalent Concern

1937-37-7 C.I. Direct Black 38

No intentional use

250 ppm

Most of these substances are regulated and should no longer be used for dyeing of textiles.

LC

2602-46-2 C.I. Direct Blue 6 250 ppm

3761-53-3 C.I. Acid Red 26 250 ppm

569-61-9 C.I. Basic Red 9 250 ppm

573-58-0 C.I. Direct Red 28 250 ppm

632-99-5 C.I. Basic Violet 14 250 ppm

2475-45-8 C.I. Disperse Blue 1 250 ppm

2475-46-9 C.I. Disperse Blue 3 250 ppm

2580-56-5 C.I. Basic Blue 26 (with Michler’s Ketone > 0.1%) 250 ppm

569-64-2 C.I. Basic Green 4 (malachite green chloride) 250 ppm

2437-29-8 C.I. Basic Green 4 (malachite green oxalate) 250 ppm

10309-95-2 C.I. Basic Green 4 (malachite green) 250 ppm

82-28-0 Disperse Orange 11 250 ppm

Dyes – Disperse (Sensitising)

119-15-3 Disperse Yellow 1

No intentional use

250 ppm

Disperse dyes are a class of water-insoluble dyes that penetrate the fibre system of synthetic or manufactured fibres and are held in place by physical forces without forming chemical bonds. Disperse dyes are used in synthetic fibre (e.g., polyester, acetate, polyamide). Restricted disperse dyes are suspected of causing allergic reactions and should no longer be used for dyeing of textiles.

LC

12222-97-8 Disperse Blue 102 250 ppm

12223-01-7 Disperse Blue 106 250 ppm

12236-29-2 Disperse Yellow 39 250 ppm

13301-61-6 Disperse Orange 37/59/76 250 ppm

23355-64-8 Disperse Brown 1 250 ppm

2581-69-3 Disperse Orange 1 250 ppm

2832-40-8 Disperse Yellow 3 250 ppm

2872-48-2 Disperse Red 11 250 ppm

2872-52-8 Disperse Red 1 250 ppm

3179-89-3 Disperse Red 17 250 ppm

3179-90-6 Disperse Blue 7 250 ppm

3860-63-7 Disperse Blue 26 250 ppm

54824-37-2 Disperse Yellow 49 250 ppm

12222-75-2 Disperse Blue 35 250 ppm

61951-51-7 Disperse Blue 124 250 ppm

6373-73-5 Disperse Yellow 9 250 ppm

730-40-5 Disperse Orange 3 250 ppm

56524-77-7 Disperse Blue 35 250 ppm

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DECEMBER 2015 LEADERS IN ADVANCING ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY 8

CAS No. Substance

Group A: Raw Material and

Finished Product Supplier Guidance

Group B: Chemical Supplier Commercial Formulation Limit

Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing

General Techniques for Analysing Chemicals

Flame Retardants

115-96-8 Tris(2-chloroethyl)phosphate (TCEP)

No intentional use

250 ppm

Flame retardant chemicals are rarely used to meet flammability requirements in children’s clothing and adult products. They should no longer be used in apparel and footwear.

GC-MS

1163-19-5 Decabromodiphenyl ether (DecaBDE) 250 ppm

126-72-7 Tris(2,3,-dibromopropyl)-phosphate (TRIS) 250 ppm

32534-81-9 Pentabromodiphenyl ether (PentaBDE) 250 ppm

32536-52-0 Octabromodiphenyl ether (OctaBDE) 250 ppm

5412-25-9 Bis(2,3-dibromopropyl)phosphate (BIS) 250 ppm

545-55-1 Tris(1-aziridinyl)phosphine oxide) (TEPA) 250 ppm

59536-65-1 Polybromobiphenyls (PBB) 250 ppm

79-94-7 Tetrabromobisphenol A (TBBPA) 250 ppm

3194-55-6 Hexabromocyclodecane (HBCDD) 250 ppm

3296-90-0 2,2-bis(bromomethyl)-1,3-propanediol (BBMP) 250 ppm

13674-87-8 Tris(1,3-dichloro-isopropyl) phosphate (TDCP) 250 ppm

85535-84-8 Short-chain chlorinated Paraffins (SCCP)

(C10-C13) 50 ppm

Glycols

111-96-6 Bis(2-methoxyethyl)-ether

No intentional use

50 ppm

In apparel and footwear, glycols have a wide range of uses including as solvents for finishing/cleaning, printing agents, and dissolving and diluting fats, oils and adhesives (e.g., in degreasing or cleaning operations).

High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), LC-MS

110-80-5 2-ethoxyethanol 50 ppm

111-15-9 2-ethoxyethyl acetate 50 ppm

110-71-4 Ethylene glycol dimethyl ether 50 ppm

109-86-4 2-methoxyethanol 50 ppm

110-49-6 2-methoxyethylacetate 50 ppm

70657-70-4 2-methoxypropylacetate 50 ppm

112-49-2 Triethylene glycol dimethyl ether 50 ppm

Halogenated Solvents

107-06-2 1,2-dichloroethane

No intentional use

5 ppm In apparel and footwear, solvents are used as finishing/cleaning and printing agents, for dissolving and diluting fats, oils and adhesives (e.g., in degreasing or cleaning operations).

GC-MS 75-09-2 Methylene chloride 5 ppm

79-01-6 Trichloroethylene 40 ppm

127-18-4 Tetrachloroethylene 5 ppm

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DECEMBER 2015 LEADERS IN ADVANCING ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY 9

CAS No. Substance

Group A: Raw Material and

Finished Product Supplier Guidance

Group B: Chemical Supplier Commercial Formulation Limit

Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing

General Techniques for Analysing Chemicals

Organotin Compounds

Multiple Dibutyltin (DBT)

No intentional use

20 ppm Organotins are a class of chemicals combining tin and organics such as butyl and phenyl groups. Organotins are predominantly found in the environment as antifoulants in marine paints, but they can also be used as biocides (e.g., antibacterials), catalysts in plastic and glue production and heat stabilisers in plastics/rubber. In textiles and apparel, organotins are associated with plastics/rubber, inks, paints, metallic glitter, polyurethane products and heat transfer material.

GC-MS, low resolution mass spectrometry (LRMS)

Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-methyltin derivatives 5 ppm

Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-butyltin derivatives 5 ppm

Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-phenyltin derivatives 5 ppm

Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-octyltin derivatives 5 ppm

Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs)

50-32-8 Benzo[a]pyrene (BaP)

No intentional use

20 ppm Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) are natural components of crude oil and are a common residue from oil refining. PAHs have a characteristic smell similar to the smell of car tires or asphalt. Oil residues containing PAHs are added to rubber and plastics as a softener or extender and may be found in rubber, plastics, lacquers and coatings. PAHs are often found in the outsoles of footwear and in printing pastes of screen prints. PAHs can be present as impurities in Carbon Black. They also may be formed from thermal decomposition of recycled materials during reprocessing.

Naphthalene: Dispersing agents for textile dyes may contain high residual naphthalene concentrations due to the use of low quality naphthalene derivatives (e.g., poor quality naphthalene sulphonate formaldehyde

GC-MS

120-12-7 Anthracene

Sum = 200 ppm

129-00-0 Pyrene

191-24-2 Benzo[ghi]perylene

192-97-2 Benzo[e]pyrene

193-39-5 Indeno[1,2,3-cd]pyrene

205-82-3 Benzo[j]fluoranthene

205-99-2 Benzo[b]fluoranthene

206-44-0 Fluoranthene

207-08-9 Benzo[k]fluoranthene

208-96-8 Acenaphthylene

218-01-9 Chrysene

53-70-3 Dibenz[a,h]anthracene

56-55-3 Benzo[a]anthracene

83-32-9 Acenaphthene

85-01-8 Phenanthrene

86-73-7 Fluorene

91-20-3 Naphthalene

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DECEMBER 2015 LEADERS IN ADVANCING ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY 10

CAS No. Substance

Group A: Raw Material and

Finished Product Supplier Guidance

Group B: Chemical Supplier Commercial Formulation Limit

Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing

General Techniques for Analysing Chemicals

condensation products).

Perfluorinated and Polyfluorinated Chemicals (PFCs)

Durable water, oil and stain repellent finishes and soil release finishes (fluorinated polymers) based on long-chain technology are banned from intentional use. Long-chain compounds according to the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) definition (http://www.oecd.org/ehs/pfc/) are based on long-chain perfluorocarboxylic acids (C8 and higher) and on long-chain perfluoroalkyl sulfonates (C6 and higher).

The main contaminants of this technology include: Perfluoroalkyl sulfonates (PFSAs) with carbon chain lengths C6 and higher (e.g., PFOS, perfluorooctane sulfonate) Perfluorocarboxylic acids with carbon chain lengths C8 and higher (e.g., PFOA, perfluorooctanoic acid)

Multiple Perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) and related

substances

No intentional use

Sum = 2 ppm PFOA and PFOS may be present as unintended by-products in long-chain commercial water, oil and stain repellent agents. PFOA also may be in use for polymers like polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE).

LC-MS

Multiple Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and related

substances 2 ppm

Phthalates – including all other esters of ortho-phthalic acid

117-81-7 Di(ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP)

No intentional use Sum of all phthalates

= 250 ppm

Esters of ortho-phthalic acid (phthalates) are a class of organic compounds commonly added to plastics to increase flexibility. They sometimes are used to facilitate moulding of plastic by decreasing its melting temperature. Phthalates can be found in:

Flexible plastic components (e.g., PVC)

Print pastes

Adhesives

Plastic buttons

Plastic sleevings

Polymeric coatings

GC-MS

117-82-8 Bis(2-methoxyethyl) phthalate (DMEP)

117-84-0 Di-n-octyl phthalate (DNOP)

26761-40-0 Di-iso-decyl phthalate (DIDP)

28553-12-0 Di-isononyl phthalate (DINP)

84-75-3 Di-n-hexyl phthalate (DnHP)

84-74-2 Dibutyl phthalate (DBP)

85-68-7 Butyl benzyl phthalate (BBP)

84-76-4 Dinonyl phthalate (DNP)

84-66-2 Diethyl phthalate (DEP)

131-16-8 Di-n-propyl phthalate (DPRP)

84-69-5 Di-isobutyl phthalate (DIBP)

84-61-7 Di-cyclohexyl phthalate (DCHP)

27554-26-3 Di-iso-octyl phthalate (DIOP)

68515-42-4 1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-C7-11-branched

and linearalkyl esters (DHNUP)

71888-89-6 1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid,di-C6-8-branched

alkyl esters,C7-rich (DIHP)

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DECEMBER 2015 LEADERS IN ADVANCING ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY 11

CAS No. Substance

Group A: Raw Material and

Finished Product Supplier Guidance

Group B: Chemical Supplier Commercial Formulation Limit

Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing

General Techniques for Analysing Chemicals

Total Heavy Metals

Listed metals are banned from intentional use in textile manufacturing/finishing. Additionally, residual traces of antimony, zinc, copper, nickel, tin, barium, cobalt, iron, manganese, selenium and silver in colourants are expected to comply with the Ecological and Toxicological Association of Dyes and Organic Pigments Manufacturers (ETAD) concentration limits (http://www.etad.com/).

7440-38-2 Arsenic (As)

No intentional use

50 ppm

Arsenic and its compounds can be used in some preservatives, pesticides and defoliants for cotton. It is also associated with synthetic fibres, paints, inks, trims and plastics.

Inductively coupled plasma- optical emission spectrometry (ICP-OES), atomic absorption spectroscopy (AAS)

7440-43-9 Cadmium (Cd) 20 ppm

(50 ppm for pigments)

Cadmium compounds are found in or used as: pigments (particularly red, orange, yellow and green), a stabiliser for PVC plastic and in fertilisers, biocides and paints (e.g., surface paints on zippers and buttons).

7439-97-6 Mercury (Hg) 4 ppm

(25 ppm for pigments)

Mercury compounds can be present in pesticides and can be found as contamination in caustic soda (NaOH). Mercury compounds may be used in paints (e.g., surface paints on zippers and buttons).

7439-92-1 Lead (Pb) 100 ppm In apparel and footwear, lead may be associated with plastics, paints, inks, pigments and surface coatings.

18540-29-9 Chromium (VI) 10 ppm

Although typically associated with leather tanning, chromium VI also may be used in the dyeing of wool (after the chroming process).

Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC)

71-43-2 Benzene

No intentional use

50 ppm These volatile organic compounds should not be used in textile auxiliary chemical preparations. They are associated with solvent-based processes like solvent- based polyurethane coatings and glues/adhesives. They should not be used for any kind of facility cleaning or spot cleaning.

GC-MS

1330-20-7 Xylene 500 ppm

95-48-7 o-cresol 500 ppm

106-44-5 p-cresol 500 ppm

108-39-4 m-cresol 500 ppm

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DECEMBER 2015 LEADERS IN ADVANCING ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY 12

Chapter 2: MRSL for Leather Processing

CAS No. Substance Group A: Raw Material and Finished Product

Supplier Guidance

Group B: Chemical Supplier Commercial

Formulation Limit

Potential Uses in Leather Processing for Apparel and Footwear

General Techniques for Analysing Chemicals within commercial formulations

Alkylphenol (AP) and Alkylphenol Ethoxylates (APEOs): including all isomers

104-40-5 11066-49-2 25154-52-3 84852-15-3

Nonylphenol (NP), mixed isomers

No intentional use

250 ppm APEOs can be used in leather processing or found in a variety of formulations such as detergents, wetting agents, emulsifier/ dispersing agents/dedusting agents for dyes and prints, dyes and pigment preparations, degreasing and fur scouring agents, fat liquors and greases, water borne dispersions and emulsions used in the beamhouse and finishing agents. NP and OP are not used by the leather industry, but could be present as contaminants.

Liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS), gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS)

EN ISO 18219 -1 EN ISO 18219 – 2

140-66-9 1806-26-4

27193-28-8 Octylphenol (OP), mixed isomers 250 ppm

9002-93-1 9036-19-5

68987-90-6 Octylphenol ethoxylates (OPEO) 500 ppm

9016-45-9 26027-38-3 37205-87-1 68412-54-4

127087-87-0

Nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEO) 500 ppm

Chlorobenzenes and Chlorotoluenes

95-50-1 1,2-dichlorobenzene

No intentional use

1000 ppm Chlorobenzenes and chlorotoluenes can be used for degreasing sheep and pig skins. They can also be used as solvents (e.g., in chemical synthesis).

GC-MS Other isomers of mono-, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- and hexa- chlorobenzene and mono-, di-, tri-, tetra- and penta- chlorotoluene

Sum = 200 ppm

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DECEMBER 2015 LEADERS IN ADVANCING ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY 13

CAS No. Substance Group A: Raw Material and Finished Product

Supplier Guidance

Group B: Chemical Supplier Commercial

Formulation Limit

Potential Uses in Leather Processing for Apparel and Footwear

General Techniques for Analysing Chemicals within commercial formulations

Chlorophenols

25167-83-3 Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP)

No intentional use

Sum = 20 ppm

Chlorophenols are polychlorinated compounds used as preservatives or pesticides. Pentachlorophenol (PCP) and tetrachlorophenol (TeCP) have been used in the past to prevent mould when storing/transporting, raw hides and leather. They are now regulated and should not be used.

GC-MS

EN ISO 17070

87-86-5 Pentachlorophenol (PCP)

4901-51-3 2,3,4,5-tetrachlorophenol

Sum = 50 ppm

58-90-2 2,3,4,6-tetrachlorophenol

935-95-5 2,3,5,6-tetrachlorophenol

95-57-8 2-chlorophenol

120-83-2 2,4-dichlorophenol

583-78-8 2,5-dichlorophenol

87-65-0 2,6-dichlorophenol

95-95-4 2,4,5-trichlorophenol

88-06-2 2,4,6-trichlorophenol

591-35-5 3,5-dichlorophenol

576-24-9 2,3-Dichlorophenol

95-77-2 3,4-Dichlorophenol

108-43-0 3-Chlorophenol

106-48-9 4-Chlorophenol

15950-66-0 2,3,4-Trichlorophenol

933-78-8 2,3,5-Trichlorophenol

609-19-8 3,4,5-Trichlorophenol

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DECEMBER 2015 LEADERS IN ADVANCING ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY 14

CAS No. Substance Group A: Raw Material and Finished Product

Supplier Guidance

Group B: Chemical Supplier Commercial

Formulation Limit

Potential Uses in Leather Processing for Apparel and Footwear

General Techniques for Analysing Chemicals within commercial formulations

Dyes – Azo (Forming Restricted Amines)

101-14-4 4,4’-methylene-bis-(2-chloro-aniline)

No intentional use

150 ppm

Azo dyes and pigments are colourants that incorporate one or several azo groups (-N=N-) bound with aromatic compounds. Thousands of azo dyes exist, but only those which degrade to form the listed cleavable amines are restricted. Azo dyes that release these amines are regulated and should no longer be used for dyeing of leather.

Restricted amines also may be present or formed during cleavage of unintended impurities in raw materials used for dyestuff production.

LC, GC-MS

EN ISO 17234 – 1 EN ISO 17234 – 2

101-77-9 4,4’-methylenedianiline 150 ppm 101-80-4 4,4’-oxydianiline 150 ppm 106-47-8 4-chloroaniline 150 ppm 119-90-4 3,3’-dimethoxylbenzidine 150 ppm 119-93-7 3,3’-dimethylbenzidine 150 ppm

120-71-8 6-methoxy-m-toluidine 150 ppm

137-17-7 2,4,5-trimethylaniline 150 ppm

139-65-1 4,4’-thiodianiline 150 ppm

60-09-3 4-aminoazobenzene 150 ppm

615-05-4 4-methoxy-m-phenylenediamine 150 ppm

838-88-0 4,4’-methylenedi-o-toluidine 150 ppm

87-62-7 2,6-xylidine 150 ppm

90-04-0 o-anisidine 150 ppm

91-59-8 2-naphthylamine 150 ppm

91-94-1 3,’3-dichlorobenzidine 150 ppm

92-67-1 4-aminodiphenyl 150 ppm

92-87-5 Benzidine 150 ppm

95-53-4 o-toluidine 150 ppm

95-68-1 2,4-xylidine 150 ppm

95-69-2 4-chloro-o-toluidine 150 ppm

95-80-7 4-methyl-m-phenylenediamine 150 ppm

97-56-3 o-aminoazotoluene 150 ppm

99-55-8 5-nitro-o-toluidine 150 ppm

Dyes – Navy Blue Colourant

118685-33-9 Component 1: C39H23ClCrN7O12S∙2Na No intentional use 250 ppm

Navy Blue colourants are regulated, were not sold commercially, and should not have been used for dyeing of leather

LC (No test reference available) Not Allocated Component 2: C46H30CrN10O20S2∙3Na

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DECEMBER 2015 LEADERS IN ADVANCING ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY 15

CAS No. Substance Group A: Raw Material and Finished Product

Supplier Guidance

Group B: Chemical Supplier Commercial

Formulation Limit

Potential Uses in Leather Processing for Apparel and Footwear

General Techniques for Analysing Chemicals within commercial formulations

Dyes – Carcinogenic or Equivalent Concern

1937-37-7 C.I. Direct Black 38

No intentional use

250 ppm

Most of these substances are regulated in many countries. All should no longer be used for dyeing of leather.

LC

2602-46-2 C.I. Direct Blue 6 250 ppm

3761-53-3 C.I. Acid Red 26 250 ppm

569-61-9 C.I. Basic Red 9 250 ppm

573-58-0 C.I. Direct Red 28 250 ppm

632-99-5 C.I. Basic Violet 14 250 ppm

2475-45-8 C.I. Disperse Blue 1 250 ppm

2475-46-9 C.I. Disperse Blue 3 250 ppm

2580-56-5 C.I. Basic Blue 26 (with Michler’s Ketone >

0.1%) 250 ppm

569-64-2 C.I. Basic Green 4 (malachite green

chloride) 250 ppm

2437-29-8 C.I. Basic Green 4 (malachite green oxalate) 250 ppm

10309-95-2 C.I. Basic Green 4 (malachite green) 250 ppm

82-28-0 Disperse Orange 11 250 ppm

Dyes – Disperse (Sensitizing)

Disperse dyes have no applicability to leather processing.

Fat liquoring agents

85535-84-8 Short-chain chlorinated paraffin (C10 – C13) No intentional use 250 ppm

Short-chain chlorinated paraffins can be found as contaminants within long-chain chlorinated paraffins and sulfo-chlorinated paraffin’s, used as fat liquoring agents.

Gas chromatography/ electron capture negative

ion-mass spectrometry (GC/ECNI-MS)

EN ISO 18219

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DECEMBER 2015 LEADERS IN ADVANCING ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY 16

CAS No. Substance Group A: Raw Material and Finished Product

Supplier Guidance

Group B: Chemical Supplier Commercial

Formulation Limit

Potential Uses in Leather Processing for Apparel and Footwear

General Techniques for Analysing Chemicals within commercial formulations

Flame Retardants

115-96-8 Tris(2-chloroethyl)phosphate (TCEP)

No intentional use

250 ppm

Flame retardant chemicals are rarely used to meet flammability requirements in children’s clothing and adult products, but they could be used in processing leather for technical/ industrial purposes (e.g., drive belts) and upholstery leather for trains and planes. The mentioned substances should no longer be used in apparel and footwear.

GC-MS

1163-19-5 Decabromodiphenyl ether (DecaBDE) 250 ppm

126-72-7 Tris(2,3,-dibromopropyl)-phosphate (TRIS) 250 ppm

32534-81-9 Pentabromodiphenyl ether (PentaBDE) 250 ppm

32536-52-0 Octabromodiphenyl ether (OctaBDE) 250 ppm

5412-25-9 Bis(2,3-dibromopropyl)phosphate (BIS) 250 ppm

545-55-1 Tris(1-aziridinyl)phosphine oxide) (TEPA) 250 ppm

59536-65-1 Polybromobiphenyls (PBB) 250 ppm

79-94-7 Tetrabromobisphenol A (TBBPA) 250 ppm

3194-55-6 Hexabromocyclodecane (HBCDD) 250 ppm

3296-90-0 2,2-bis(bromomethyl)-1,3-propanediol

(BBMP) 250 ppm

13674-87-8 Tris(1,3-dichloro-isopropyl) phosphate

(TDCP) 250 ppm

Glycol Ethers

111-96-6 Bis(2-methoxyethyl)-ether

No intentional use

50 ppm In apparel and footwear, glycol ethers have a wide range of uses including as solvents for finishing/cleaning, printing agents and dissolving and diluting fats, oils and adhesives (e.g., in degreasing or cleaning operations). Some polar solvents (glycol ethers) are necessary for the use of water-based leather finishing systems.

The mentioned glycol ethers are classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic or reprotoxic substances and should not be used in processing leather.

High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), LC-MS

110-80-5 2-ethoxyethanol 50 ppm

111-15-9 2-ethoxyethyl acetate 50 ppm

110-71-4 Ethylene glycol dimethyl ether 50 ppm

109-86-4 2-methoxyethanol 50 ppm

110-49-6 2-methoxyethylacetate 50 ppm

112-49-2 Triethylene glycol dimethyl ether 50 ppm

70657-70-4 2-methoxypropylacetate 1000 ppm

Halogenated Solvents

107-06-2 1,2-dichloroethane

No intentional use

5 ppm In apparel and footwear, solvents are used as finishing/cleaning and printing agents, for dissolving and diluting fats, oils and adhesives (e.g., in degreasing or cleaning operations).

GC-MS 75-09-2 Methylene chloride 5 ppm

79-01-6 Trichloroethylene 40 ppm

127-18-4 Tetrachloroethylene 5 ppm

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DECEMBER 2015 LEADERS IN ADVANCING ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY 17

CAS No. Substance Group A: Raw Material and Finished Product

Supplier Guidance

Group B: Chemical Supplier Commercial

Formulation Limit

Potential Uses in Leather Processing for Apparel and Footwear

General Techniques for Analysing Chemicals within commercial formulations

Organotin Compounds

Multiple Dibutyltin (DBT)

No intentional use

20 ppm (*EXCEPTION* 100 ppm for polyurethane based thickeners used at <20%

loading)

Organotins are a class of chemicals combining tin and organics such as butyl and phenyl groups. Organotins are predominantly found in the environment as antifoulants in marine paints, but they can also be used as biocides (e.g., antibacterials), catalysts in plastic and glue productions and heat stabilizers in plastics/rubber.

Polyurethane thickeners, which could contain traces of DBT, are commonly used for viscosity adjustments of leather chemicals formulations.

GC-MS, low resolution mass spectrometry (LRMS) Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-methyltin derivatives 5 ppm

Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-butyltin derivatives 5 ppm

Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-phenyltin derivatives 5 ppm

Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-octyltin derivatives 5 ppm

Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs)

50-32-8 Benzo[a]pyrene (BaP)

No intentional use

20 ppm

Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) are natural components of crude oil and are a common residue from oil refining. PAHs are typically found as contaminants within leather formulations.

GC-MS

120-12-7 Anthracene

Sum = 200 ppm

129-00-0 Pyrene

191-24-2 Benzo[ghi]perylene

192-97-2 Benzo[e]pyrene

193-39-5 Indeno[1,2,3-cd]pyrene

205-82-3 Benzo[j]fluoranthene

205-99-2 Benzo[b]fluoranthene

206-44-0 Fluoranthene

207-08-9 Benzo[k]fluoranthene

208-96-8 Acenaphthylene

218-01-9 Chrysene

53-70-3 Dibenz[a,h]anthracene

56-55-3 Benzo[a]anthracene

83-32-9 Acenaphthene

85-01-8 Phenanthrene

86-73-7 Fluorene

91-20-3 Naphthalene 300 ppm

In the leather chemical industry, naphthalene is used as a raw material for manufacture of synthetic tanning agents (syntans) and for manufacture of active substances in dispersing agents used during leather processing.

GC-MS, LC

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DECEMBER 2015 LEADERS IN ADVANCING ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY 18

CAS No. Substance Group A: Raw Material and Finished Product

Supplier Guidance

Group B: Chemical Supplier Commercial

Formulation Limit

Potential Uses in Leather Processing for Apparel and Footwear

General Techniques for Analysing Chemicals within commercial formulations

Perfluorinated and Polyfluorinated Chemicals (PFCs)

Durable water, oil and stain repellent finishes and soil release finishes (fluorinated polymers) based on long-chain technology are banned from intentional use. Long-chain compounds according to the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) definition (http://www.oecd.org/ehs/pfc/) are based on long-chain perfluorocarboxylic acids (C8 and higher) and on long-chain perfluoroalkyl sulfonates (C6 and higher).

The main contaminants of this technology include: Perfluoroalkyl sulfonates (PFSAs) with carbon chain lengths C6 and higher (e.g., PFOS, perfluorooctane sulfonate) Perfluorocarboxylic acids with carbon chain lengths C8 and higher (e.g., PFOA, perfluorooctanoic acid)

Multiple Perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) and

related substances No intentional use

Sum = 2 ppm PFOA and PFOS may be present as unintended by-products in long-chain commercial water, oil and stain repellent agents. PFOA also may be in use for polymers like polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE).

LC-MS

Multiple Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and related

substances 2 ppm

Phthalates – including all other esters of ortho-phthalic acid

117-81-7 Di(ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP)

No intentional use Sum of all phthalates

= 250 ppm

Esters of ortho-phthalic acid (phthalates) are a class of organic compounds commonly added to plastics to increase flexibility. They are sometimes used to facilitate moulding of plastic by decreasing its melting temperature.

Polymeric coatings for leather finishing, dedusting agents in colourants, fat liquors and greases could be a source for phthalates in formulations for leather processing.

GC-MS

117-82-8 Bis(2-methoxyethyl) phthalate (DMEP)

117-84-0 Di-n-octyl phthalate (DNOP)

26761-40-0 Di-iso-decyl phthalate (DIDP)

28553-12-0 Di-isononyl phthalate (DINP)

84-75-3 Di-n-hexyl phthalate (DnHP)

84-74-2 Dibutyl phthalate (DBP)

85-68-7 Butyl benzyl phthalate (BBP)

84-76-4 Dinonyl phthalate (DNP)

84-66-2 Diethyl phthalate (DEP)

131-16-8 Di-n-propyl phthalate (DPRP)

84-69-5 Di-isobutyl phthalate (DIBP)

84-61-7 Di-cyclohexyl phthalate (DCHP)

27554-26-3 Di-iso-octyl phthalate (DIOP)

68515-42-4 1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-C7-11-

branched and linearalkyl esters (DHNUP)

71888-89-6 1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid,di-C6-8-branched alkyl esters,C7-rich (DIHP)

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DECEMBER 2015 LEADERS IN ADVANCING ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY 19

CAS No. Substance Group A: Raw Material and Finished Product

Supplier Guidance

Group B: Chemical Supplier Commercial

Formulation Limit

Potential Uses in Leather Processing for Apparel and Footwear

General Techniques for Analysing Chemicals within commercial formulations

Total Heavy Metals

Listed metals are banned from intentional use in textile manufacturing/finishing. Additionally, residual traces of antimony, zinc, copper, nickel, tin, barium, cobalt, iron, manganese, selenium and silver in colourants are expected to comply with the Ecological and Toxicological Association of Dyes and Organic Pigments Manufacturers (ETAD) concentration limits (http://www.etad.com/).

7440-38-2 Arsenic (As)

No intentional use

50 ppm

Arsenic and its compounds can be used in some preservatives, pesticides and defoliants for cotton. It is also associated with synthetic fibres, paints, inks, trims and plastics.

Arsenic is not a typical residue in leather chemicals.

Inductively coupled plasma-optical emission spectrometry (ICP-OES), atomic absorption spectroscopy (AAS) Cr (III) Tanning agents can be monitored for Cr(VI)

EN ISO 17075 (Current Use) ISO/DIS 19071 (Draft)

7440-43-9 Cadmium (Cd) 20 ppm

(50 ppm for pigments)

Cadmium compounds are found in or used as: pigments (particularly red, orange, yellow and green), a stabiliser for PVC plastic and in fertilisers, biocides and paints (e.g., surface paints on zippers and buttons).

7439-97-6 Mercury (Hg) 4 ppm

(25 ppm for pigments)

Mercury compounds can be present in pesticides and can be found as contamination in caustic soda (NaOH). Mercury compounds may be used in paints (e.g., surface paints on zippers and buttons).

Mercury is not a typical residue in leather chemicals.

7439-92-1 Lead (Pb) 100 ppm In apparel and footwear, lead may be associated with plastics, paints, inks, pigments and surface coatings.

18540-29-9 Chromium (VI) 10 ppm

The two-bath process for tanning using potassium dichromate (VI) is no longer used by the leather industry.

Potassium dichromate (VI) and other chromium (VI) compounds are banned and chromium (VI) residues in chromium (III) tanning agents are restricted.

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DECEMBER 2015 LEADERS IN ADVANCING ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY 20

CAS No. Substance Group A: Raw Material and Finished Product

Supplier Guidance

Group B: Chemical Supplier Commercial

Formulation Limit

Potential Uses in Leather Processing for Apparel and Footwear

General Techniques for Analysing Chemicals within commercial formulations

Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC)

71-43-2 Benzene

No intentional use

50 ppm These volatile organic compounds should not be used in textile and leather auxiliary chemical preparations. They are associated with solvent-based processes like solvent-based polyurethane coatings and glues/adhesives. They should not be used for any kind of facility cleaning or spot cleaning.

GC-MS

95-48-7 o-cresol 500 ppm

106-44-5 p-cresol 500 ppm

108-39-4 m-cresol 500 ppm