准备攀登 绳结 内角、岩角、悬岩、横渡、stemming、layback、 … · 2021. 5....
TRANSCRIPT
准备攀登
◎岩场基本守则
◎热身运动
◎收身操
◎绳结
◎攀登技巧
→基本原则
→基本踏足点踩法、把手点抓法
→斜板、岩面、裂隙、烟囱
→内角、岩角、悬岩、横渡、Stemming、Layback、岩阶
→Lock-off、Flagging、Diagonalling、Drop Knee
→Twist Lock、High Stepping、Figure4、动态、休息
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◎把手点及动作
◎确保系统与绳索下降
→确保、岩场口号
→绳索下降
→古典技巧（缺乏装备时）
◎坠落时注意事项
进入岩场须知
• 安全第一
攀岩运动是有潜在危险的，在岩场最注重安全，勿做出危险的举动，听别人的劝告。
• 切勿践踏绳索
在攀岩时，主绳＝生命，践踏绳索会破坏绳子结构。
• 无确保切勿攀登
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危险的动作请勿尝试。
• 确保者须专心一志,勿与人谈笑
确保关攀登者的生命，除了动作要确实外，要将注意力放在攀登者，不要做其它的事。
攀岩技巧差，仍有人愿意跟你爬岩；确保技术差，则没人敢和你爬岩。因为技巧差死不了，确保差会
死掉。
• 在没有老手指导下，不使用不熟悉的器材
错误的使用器材可能会发生不可预料的危险
• 坚硬的攀岩器材（如钩环，八字环）不可丢掷
• 在岩场上除自己安全外，还要考虑到别人的安全；以及基本的礼貌
• 使用任何固定点时，你必须重新检查它是否安全
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• 拋下绳索前，必须大喊拋绳稍后再拋下
• 发现任何东西掉落时，必须立刻大喊落石通知，尽量避免造成落石
• 离开岩场时，带走你带来的东西
伸展操
开始攀登前先来点热身运动与伸展操吧！
注意---热身运动不单是做做伸展操就叫热身运动，伸展操只是热身运动的一部分。
热身运动：顾名思义热身运动就是要提高身体的温度(1-2 度)，像：跑步、跳绳、有氧运动等都是不错的选
择，做之前最好先活动一下关节，这样可以减少运动伤害。
伸展操 (Stretch)：Key Stretches for Climber (do 3 – 5 stretches)
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• Sitting Butterflies: 20 – 30 sec
• Froggies: 20 – 30 sec
• Front Splits: 20 – 30 sec
• Forearm Stretch: 10 – 15 sec
• Shoulder / Upper Back: 20 – 30 sec
• Upper Arm and Lat: 20 – 30 sec
• High Steps: 10 times on both sides
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绳结
绳结有各式各种不同的用途与打法，以下所举仅是攀岩时常用的绳结。
基本观念：在攀登过程中，绳结打法的对错和速度有时关乎性命，因此熟悉各种绳结的打法与其功能是相当
重要的。绳结的技艺来自不断的练习，初时可按图依样，然后弃书默结、闭目练习，甚至单手打出。每一步
骤都要非常正确，毫不犹疑，才算学有所成。所有绳结在完成后皆须收紧方能使用，同时绳端至少预留 5～
10 公分，以免自行松脱。注意：这是所有绳结的特性 --- 经过一段时间后都会松脱，因此一定要养成经常
检查的习惯。
单结(Overhand Knot)：很简单的结，可用于固定其它绳结的绳尾，单股或双股都可以打，图标为双股打单
结。
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八字结(Figue-8) ：于绳索中段打八字结，可用双股方式。
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八字结(Figure-8 follow-through) ：八字结的打法分解动作，先打一个单八字结，绕过吊带后原路绕回，
使用于安全吊带上，是目前攀登时最常用的绳结，一定要会。
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水结(Water Knot)：主要用于连接伞带，此结易松，故必须用力打紧及经常检查
称人结(Bowline) ：基本的绳结，各种打法都要练习，绳尾一定要加半扣。
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双重称人结(Double Bowline)：改良式称人结，加强确保，即使受力后依然容易打开，是个不错的绳结。
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渔人结(Fishman’s Knot)及双渔人结(Double Fishman’s or Grapevine Knot)：用于连接绳子或伞带，
不易松脱。
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双套结(Glove Hitch)：要练习用单手(左、右手)打这个结。此外，架设确保系统时常常会绕着固定点(如
树干)打此结，所以各种方式都要熟悉。连结岩钉也可用此结。
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(clove_415x134.GIF from Petzl)
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收绳结
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特殊用途的绳结
普鲁士结：爬绳子必备。The sliding knot or the method to ascend a rope (named after its inventor
Dr. Karl Prusik).
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鞍带结(Girth Hitch)：连结岩钉与钩环；连接两条伞带。
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Joint slings with Girth Hitch
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Overhand Slip Knot：可用于连结岩钉与钩环。同一打法也可用来整理主绳或伞带，不易交错纠缠，使用
起来比较方便。
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意大利半扣(Munter Hitch or Italian Munter Hitch)：A quick and neat rappel/belay device that
provides lots of friction (2.5 KN). Excellent backup, does put a lot of twist in the rope though.
This hitch is often used when mountaineering. (munter_400x154.GIF from Petzl)
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序
本文介绍一些攀登的技巧，在天然岩场多变化的地形特别有用，除了每一种动作做好，还要会综合应用，
当然这必须经过多次的练习才办得到的。
平衡攀登之基础
• 找到踏足点后应依据技巧平稳的站住，切忌因姿势改变而任意变动
• 把手点一般使用推压方式较上拉方式为省力
• 不可在一个费力的姿势停留过久，应保持连续性
• 使用较有力的部位，也就是能用脚站，就不要用手吊..........
基本原则
• 用脚：每次移动向上时，应利用脚来支撑体重，不要用手吊单杠，手仅用来维持平衡。因此，攀登时
不要一味往上寻找把手点，眼光下移，好的踏足点是成功的一半。
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• 三点不动：要移动手或脚时，应将重心移至其余三点，然后保持平衡，然后才可将该点的力量移除。
从别人的攀登会发现 --- 为求重心的转移，常会在岩壁上扭来扭去。
练习方式
• 重心的转移
• 尝试不同的姿势、韵律、节奏
踏足点的踩法
Front-Pointing and Edging：Where one uses the edge of the climbing shoe to stand on small footholds.
It has inside edging, outside edging, and fronting pointing.
正踩侧踩：在小的踏足点上有三种踩法→内侧、外侧、正踩。
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注：踩的面积大不一定好（可能变成磨擦点），要寻找较平好用力之处；所以鞋子不能太大，否则无法在小
地方用力。
Smearing：Foot technique where a big part of the climbing shoe is used to pressed against a rock
surface (小突点) to generate as much friction as possible. This is a technique to stand on rounded
holds.
磨擦点：不是踩在小突点上而是鞋底的一大部份压在岩面上尽量产生磨擦力，在圆滑的点上须用到。
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注：这种技巧比上一个还难得多，而且要有信心才能在脚上多用力让手省点力，其实愈用力磨擦力愈大愈稳。
Hooking
↓用脚后跟钩住
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↓用脚趾钩住
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把手点的抓法
Crimp Grip / Open Hand Grip / Wrap Grip / 捏(Pinch Grip)
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注：Open hand grip 较不伤手指，且对难的点比较好抓，尽量习惯这种抓法。
↓分别为 open-hand grip on a shelf、sloper、pocket
↓由左至右为 crimp grip、open-handed grip、wrap grip、the pinch grip.
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侧拉(Side Pull)
↓Opposing sidepull
倒拉(Undercling)
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↓左为侧拉，右为倒拉
Gaston
↓用左右反向力来撑住身体
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注：这个动作比较费力，没需要当然不作。
平衡攀登技巧(一)
斜板(Slab Climbing)
• Keep your weight directly over your boots
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• Maintain the upright posture
• Place your boots deliberately
• Climb fluidly and lightly, not overloading the holds with jerky moves
• Use outside edging only for rest step not for the move
• High stepping is sometimes necessary to maximize the reach
• 让身体重量平均落于脚上
• 保持直立的姿势
• 移动脚步稳而准确
• 优美而轻巧的攀登，不要因快速移动而加重支持的力气
• 于斜板上攀爬，只有休息时才用外侧踩法，移动时不用
• 为了构到较远的把手点，有时需用 High Stepping 方式
↓离开岩面保持直立较易攀爬
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↓对脚信心不足，身体鼓起更不好爬；相信脚、离开岩面会比较稳。
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↓在斜板上，手点、脚点，甚至确保点往往都很小
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↓在难度高的斜板上，为了提高脚步，柔软度就很重要。
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↓垫高脚就可以抓到把手点。
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岩面(Face Climbing)：岩面攀登分解为以下几个步骤，可以用来对付难点(crux moves)﹕
• 准备，观察路线(Relaxed phase)：Chalk if possible; Do not move the foot, which will pops off
holds; Do not overcling with handholds.
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• 脚移动至下一踏足点，同时手用力(维持平衡)(Crank/Step phase)：High step if possible and precise
placement of foot.
• 锁住(Lock-off phase)：Better getting hips close to the wall; Do not let the foot move on the
edge, which will rotate off.
• 手移动至下一把手点(Extension phase)：Do not melt off clinging hands; Free hand must reach
for the right handhold; Foot must not blow off.
On near-vertical rock, turnout keeps the body close to the wall, minimizing outward pull on
handholds. This is an effective positions typically reduce outward pull on the hands and improve
direction of force on handholds by keeping the body close to the rock.
在接近垂直的岩面，移转身体靠向岩壁，把向外的拉力减到最小，这种典型的姿势可使手支撑向外的拉力减
小，增力往岩壁靠的力气。
↓脚的位置对于上攀有很大的影向；太高，一开始的移动都是靠手拉；太低，抓到下一个把手点之前脚就悬
空了。
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↓『推』所花的力气比『拉』小
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↓B 脚位置太低，身体拉太长了。
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↓A 错误，脚踩太里面，身体拉太直了。
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↓左错误，易失去平衡，且没办法用力站起来。
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裂隙(Crack Climbing)：裂隙从大到小，尺寸各有不同，都需实地练习。 (Note: It would be wise to tape
up well before practicing crack climbing.)
• Narrow cracks: Up to 1½ in --- finger and toe tip jams. • Medium cracks: 1½ to 4 in --- hand, fist, foot jams. • Wide cracks: 4 in to body size. Off-width cracks: No part of the body fits well.
• Chimney: Entire body or wider.
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Pocket Climbing：When using pockets, you can improve two-finger holding power by keeping your
index(食指) and pinkie(小指) fingers down with your thumb.
Finger Jam：扭住为最高原则
Two most important rules in jamming：
• Move one limb at a time. Achieve solid jams or locks with three limbs before you move a forth
one.
• Never move on a jam you can't hang on. Take time to get jam right, so that you know you can
hang on it.
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Off-Finger Jam：Around a #1.5-Friend-sized crack for the most.
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Thin-Hand Jam：Approximately #2 Friend-sized --- can be the most insecure and also quite strenuous
if it's a long section.
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Hand Jam：Thumbs down and apply torque. The #2.5 to #3 Friend-sized cracks are the most secure
and enjoyable to climb; slightly larger hand cracks, #3.5 Friend-sized, require a more strenuous
cup than the standard hand jam.
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Fist Jam：Fist crack run about the size of a #4 Friend for most.
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Off-Width Jam：These are cracks into which you can jam your whole arm and perform armbar. Armbar
involves levering your arm in the crack by pushing your hand against one side of the crack while
the elbow pushes against the other.
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Foot Jam
↓A 正确，B错误，会失去平衡
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↓A：塞入岩缝。B：脚尖及脚跟挤塞
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↓A：塞入岩缝，脚趾塞入裂缝，扭转脚。B：摩擦岩角，脚跟比脚尖低，向下施力
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烟囱(Chimney Climbing)
利用反向力上攀
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• Knee Chimney
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• Foot-Back Chimney
平衡攀登技巧(二)
内角(Dihedral Climbing)：Pushing, stemming instead of pulling
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岩角(Arete Climbing)：Arete climbs almost always are exposed, committing, and exhilarating. Before
starting out, consider which side of the edge you'll predominantly be climbing on. Heel, toe, and
calf hooks are invaluable aids to maintain balance, limit the "hinge" effect, and unweight your
arm. Constantly look and feel around the corner for hidden holds. If there are no holds between
some blank sections, you may consider slapping technique. Slappling is a dynamic maneuver, and
you must make use of the dead point --- that millisecond when your body is weightless. Preceding
any slap, you must dynamically hoist your torso up and slight in. At the dead point, a hand flashes
up for the hold. Perfect timing is the key.
悬岩(Overhang Climbing)：If you find a good hand hold, but can't reach it, think about a heel-hook
to take the weight off of your arms, then you will have the strength to reach higher and further.
Sometimes that is not enough. Try the twist-lock technique, it may help you to beat the long reach
problem. (Twist-Lock 参见下文)
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横渡(Traversing)
Hand Traverse：use foot frictioning against wall
换脚(Foot Switch)
Stemming (左右撑壁攀登）
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Layback（背向后倚式）
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Mantleshelf （岩阶攀登）
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平衡攀登技巧(三)
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Lock-Off：To hold on to the rock with one bent arm while using the other arm to reach up for the
next hold or to place or clip protection. Lock-offs on small holds will get you pumped in a hurry.
一只手臂抓住把手点并且弯曲手臂、固定不使伸直，然后用另一只手去抓下一个把手点或架设确保点；在小
的把手点做这个动作手臂很快就会充血变硬。
Flagging：A climbing technique whereby one foot is used behind the other or pushing off the wall
for balance. This way can improve balance on barn door moves or side pull moves.
一只脚放在另一只脚的后面将身体推离墙壁来保持平衡，避免开门效应或是在水平侧拉时保持平衡。
↓AB.开门效应：攀登者的重心放在四点，把手点过远。当右手放开时，身体就旋转摆离岩面，称为开门效
应。C.将体重转向不动手之一侧，左手右脚出力，左脚保持平衡，使重心在左手下。D.或以反向力移动身体，
将右脚摆到左脚后。
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Diagonalling：This is a body position where one hand and the opposite foot(inside or outside edging)
are in line. This type of body position allows for a better reach to holds located diagonally above.
手和另一侧的脚在同一垂直线上，在把手点远的时候使用。
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Drop-Knee：An exaggerated back-step where one knee is dropped toward the ground while the other
is pointing up, resulting in a stable stemming position of the legs, especially on overhanging
rock.
一只脚的膝盖朝下，另一只的朝上，使得双脚支撑得较好，尤其在悬岩的地方。
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Back Stepping: Technique using the outside edge of the foot on a hold which is under or behind
you while climbing. This allows you to use holds that are not reasonable to use with the inside
of your foot and by so doing maintain a comfortable balanced position.
使用脚的外侧踩在身体后方或下面的脚点上，可以让你抓到其它姿势抓不到的把手点，或是有较佳的平衡姿
势。
General guideline: When the footholds face each other, uses Drop-Knee technique; When the handholds
are side pulls or underclings, uses Back Stepping or Diagonalling technique.
一般原则：当两个脚点是相向的时候，用 Drop-Knee 的技巧；如果把手点是侧拉或下拉就用 Back Stepping
或是 Diagonalling。
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平衡攀登技巧(四)
Twist-Lock：Twist-lock involve turning your upper body to face the hold being locked off. It
provides reach and strength advantages. Steep climbing lock-off strength varies dramatically with
body position. The body is strongest at lock-offs when the torso turns toward the hold being locked.
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Twisting your lock-offs also adds significantly to your reach by positioning the shoulder of your
reaching arm closer to its destination.
侧身：将上半身将向 Lock off 的把手点那边，这样有抓得远及力量的优势。在陡峭的地方攀登用这一招可
以使力量大增，当驱干转到把手点侧时，身体最稳固；另外侧身可以使你抓得较远，因为除了手臂还加上你
的肩膀长度。
注：这是一种最重要的攀岩技巧之一，如果不会，在岩场时要特别请教有经验的人。
High –Stepping：Step high all the way up to your next foothold. Shift your weight onto one foot
as the other foot lifts off of its hold. Push up and reach to the next handhold. Flexibility is
important for high stepping. Extreme high-steps put a tremendous strain on the knee when weight
is rocked on, so go slowly.
尽量的提到下一个脚点，把你的体重放到一只脚上，然后另一只脚就离开原来的点，往上推让手抓到下一个
点。这个动作柔软度很重要，另外身体摇动时对膝盖的压力很大，所以要慢慢移动。
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↓左上：侧身的时候配合 Diagonal，左手右脚用力，左脚平衡。右上：在很角度很大的悬岩上侧身，悬空
的脚帮助身体转向而作出侧身的动作。左下：就算踩在相对的侧向脚点，只要一只脚的膝盖朝下，仍可做出
侧身的动作（Dropping one knee allows you to twist a lock-off even when stemming between opposed
footholds）。
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Figure-4：A climbing technique where the climber throws one leg over a wrist or arm that is holding
onto a hold. Using the leg to push the body higher, the climber is then able to reach holds that
would not be reachable otherwise. This is a pretty handy, though strenuous, technique for use on
overhanging rock and an option when you cannot dyno.
四字式：这种姿势有一只腿会翻到有抓住点双手的手腕或手臂上，用这只腿把身体往上推，让手可以抓到下
个把手点（其它姿势都抓不到的），虽然很费力，但在悬岩处或你不会动态攀登时很有用。
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Dyno：Dynamic movement towards a distant hold, aka dead point.
动态：在距离很远的点使用，没抓好可能就坠落了。
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Rest (Face)
• A hand jam in a pocket
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• A heel hook or toe hook
• A knee, shoulder, or even a headbar
• Alternately switching fingers on a hold
• Hanging straight-armed from a jug
• A drop-knee with the hips close to the wall
Rest (Crack)
• Stem in a corner or leg in the crack
• Hang straight-armed from a solid jam
• Lock a knee or leg in the crack
• Find a kneebar or even a locker armbar
• Backstep in a corner
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↓手臂伸直比较省力。
↓脚和膝盖顶住让手休息。
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↓肉包－－可能是在点上最有效的休息方式。
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↓假如你不能整个手掌握住把手点，就用拇指钩住，摇动其它手指头，使其恢复活力。
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↓不要抓着这个大点，直接把手臂扣上去，整个人放松休息一下。
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↓换有力的手指头抓住点，让没力的休息一下。
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↓不只在裂隙攀登时用到，平常也可以把手臂撑住当固定点让其它部位休息。
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↓当小腿不够长时，试着把手掌壂进去增加高度。
↓下面这种姿势不但无法休息还会更累。
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↓外侧踩法是一种不错的休息方式，但同时带给你恐惧（这个动作感觉不太安全）。
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↓各种不同姿势来固定身体让手休息。
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把手点与动作
(from ESPN SportsZone)
On an artificial wall, holds are usually man-made
pieces (sometimes real rock) that are attached
to the wall by bolts that go through them and into
the wall. Holds are all different shapes and
sizes. The configuration of holds on the wall
determines the "route," or the path to the top
that the climber must follow.
在人工岩场，把手点通常也是人工的岩块（有
时候是真的石头），然后再用螺丝固定在岩墙
上；岩块有不同的形状和大小，它们的形状和
位置决定了攀爬的路线。
Different kinds of holds have different names.
Some are specific descriptions related to the
不同的把手点有不同的名字，有些是由形状命
名，像鸡头（一个圆形的点在墙的外边）、骨头
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shape of the hold, such as a chickenhead (a round
hold that sticks out from the wall) or a bone or
a urinal (deep, scooping hold). But there are
also broad universal descriptions for how a hold
works and how it is used:
或尿壶（深桶状的点），但也有较广泛通用的定
义是看点的用途及效用。
Some "moves" that climbers use to get from hold
to hold also have names.
有些攀岩者从点到点间的动作也有名字。
Holds
Bucket: A big hold, or one that is in-cut, that
you can really get your hand into or around.
大的把手点，或是大洞，你可以整把握住或放
进去。
Crimper: A crimper is a small hold, just big 小点，只能够用指尖施力，必须把手指头弯起
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enough for the fingertips, that you have to crimp
your fingers to hold on to. A climb with lots of
crimpers is "crimpy."
来，很多这类点的路线叫"crimpy"。
Downpull: A hold that can be used by pulling
straight down. Usually very solid and
straightforward.
可以用来垂直往下推的点，通常很牢固且直接
的。
Finger pocket: A one- or two-finger pocket is a
hold with a depression that you can only get that
many fingers into.
一到二根手指头勉强可以放进的小凹洞。
Gaston: A move where one or both hands pull on
a hold across the front of the body. Imagine it
一个必需用一或两只手在身体前往两边横拉的
点，就像要把开电梯门的动作。
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as trying to open closed elevator doors with one
or both hands.
Pinch: A hold that you squeeze the outsides of
in order to hold on to it.
一个你得从外面捏紧才抓得住的点。
Sloper: Any hold that slopes downward so that you
can't lock onto it. Slopers are easy to slide or
"grease" off of.
岩面向下倾斜的点，你无法很稳的固定在上面，
很容易滑掉。
Sidepull: A hold that's turned so it can only be
used from the side. This kind of hold usually
takes trickier body position.
只能用侧边的点，通常须要身体姿势的技巧。
Undercling: A hold that's held from the bottom, 要从下侧向上拉的点。
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pulling upward.
Moves
Backstep: Using the outside edge of the foot (as
opposed to the front or the ball of the foot)
用脚的外侧边缘（不是前面也不是脚的球形部
位）。
Barndoor: The result of a climber getting out of
balance, causing the body to swing out away from
the wall like a barn door opening.
攀登者失去平衡的结果，导致身体摆开岩壁，
像开门一样。
Crank: Powerfully pulling through a hold. 很用力的拉一个点。
Deadpoint: A dynamic move where a climber lunges
for a hold and hits it just at the point where
一个动态的动作，攀登者必须要跳到这个点，
且刚好到这个最高点，不再上升（之后当然就
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he/she is no longer moving up or down. For
example, lunging for a faraway pocket, where the
fingers need to sink directly in. In other words,
there's no chance of controlling the hold if the
climber overshoots (can't grab it on the way back
down), or undershoots.
往下降了）。例如，要跳到一个远的洞点，必须
要直接插入才可抓住，换言之，假如冲过头或
不够高，就没有机会抓住（就算是过头往下掉
时也无法抓住）。
Dyno: A lunge for a faraway hold. The opposite
of a controlled, "static" move. Sometimes also
called a lunge.
动态，静态的相反词。
Flag: Where a leg is held out to one side or draped
beneath the climber for balance.
一只脚放在另一只脚的后面或为求身体平衡而
把脚垂在下面。
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Heel hook: Putting the heel on a hold (often above
the climber's head) and rocking onto it.
把脚跟放在点上（通常超过攀登者的头），然后
摇罢而上。
High step: When a climber's foot is nearly as high
as his/her hands, or sometimes as high or higher.
当攀登者把脚抬得跟手一样或更高的动作。
Lie back: Using a side pull by opposing the force
of the hands and feet; i.e. the hands are pulling
one way and the feet are pushing the other.
利用手和脚侧推的反向力，手和脚反方向用力。
Mantle: Where a climber pulls above a hold, or
over a lip, then pushes down on what he/she is
holding onto. An extremely committing move since
it's very difficult to reverse.
将身体拉高超过把手点，或是超过岩阶；然后
同一把手点变成下推，必须要全力以付，因为
很难退回来。
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Match: Using one hold for both hands. You can also
"match feet."
两只手抓同一个点，脚也可以这样做。
Smear: Using the sole of the shoe to generate
friction where there is otherwise no hold.
没有其它点可踩，只能利用鞋底产生磨擦力。
Stem: When the feet are very wide apart,
sometimes into a "splits" position.
两脚张得很开，有时候就是劈腿。
Elvis syndrome -- when an awkward position held
for too long causes a climbers legs to shake
uncontrollably.
不顺手的姿势保持太久，使得脚不自觉的发抖。
确保、岩场口号
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架设确保点与进行确保的第一步就是自我确保。
自我确保：确保者以绳索与适当的固定点连接，一旦攀登者墬落或其它因素，确保者才不至发生危险。
注意事项：
1. 确保时，确保者与固定点间一定要拉紧。
2. 当攀登者的重量较确保者为重时，自我确保益形重要，否则稍稍的坠落力量，便会导致确保者重心失控，
即使是在地面确保，也可能因此摔伤、撞上岩壁，甚至造成攀登者的严重坠落。所以要记住：无自我确保下
进行确保或架设确保系统是危险的。
3. 下述情况要特别注意：岩场上协助不熟识的人确保，尤其应注意自我确保的必要性，不单是彼此体量的
因素，对方的攀登方式(或坠落方式)往往也会造成很大的影响。
(2contreparoi.GIF；3contreparoi.GIF；4tsurplomb.GIF；5enfantadulte.GIF from Petzl)
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确保：除非你要 solo，否则一定要确保。
确保要领
• 受力方向与固定点应尽量成一直线
• 制动手决不离开绳索 (最重要的一点！)
• 绳子不要太紧，以免妨碍攀登
• 攀登者停止活动时，可先做出制动动作
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• 放绳与收绳动作类似；要领仍为：制动手决不离开绳索
确保注意事项
• 确保务必专心
• 确保前，必须仔细检查每个细节，不可出错
• 制动手勿太靠近制动器，以免被意外夹伤
• 确保过程，要注意攀登者的动作，及早反应
• 任何时候、任何情况下，制动手决不离开绳索
• 调整位置，不要让先锋攀登者掉在绳子上
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岩场口号 (没事也把英文记一下)
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攀登者 确保者
准备攀登(On Belay?) 确保完成(Belay On)
开始攀登(Climbing) 攀登(Climb On)
解除确保(Off Belay) 确保解除(Belay Off)
下降(Lower me down) 开始下降(OK)
给绳(Slack) (Give)
收 绳 (Tension) (Take)
(Tight)
要坠落了(Watch me)
墬落(Fall)
落石(Rock)
拋绳(Rope)
绳索下降(Rappelling)
下降：只要你上攀便须要下降，所以来学点下降技巧吧！
舍弃绳：有需要时可以伞带或绳索制作绳环、绳圈作为舍弃绳。
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拋绳：拋绳时先用手绕出小绳圈再行拋出，可避免纠缠打结；注意：小心绳索下墬产生的拉力；如将主绳一
端系牢于确保点上，则可免于绳索被意外拉落。
使用下降器：使用器楔下降是很容易的事，不管你如何熟练，还是要谨记「不慌不忙、小心谨慎」，仔细检
查各项细节。
下降要领(一定要牢记)
• 下降前先将绳索收紧、整理妥当(不要两股交错卷曲)，然后缓缓退至崖边，身体慢慢后倾，将重量加
给固定点。
• 上方手帮助平衡，不要太用力；下方手决不能放开；然后以下方手控制下降速度，缓缓送绳。
• 下降时两脚约略与肩同宽，有如双脚在岩壁上行走，身体略侧，以便向下观察路线。
• 下降途中遇悬岩时，先放一段绳子使身体稍降后，再下悬岩。
• 长距离下降时，可于绳索末端打结，以免下降过头 --- 致命的错误！ (绝不可发生！)
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• 如需连结两条绳索进行双绳下降时，一定要使用双渔人结。
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绳索回收：注意绳索不要互相交错卷曲，收绳时靠岩壁的一端先收，较不会卡绳。
特殊技巧：停止于下降途中(Working in Mid-rappel)↓
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简易吊带、人身确保、意大利半扣结、钩环下降 、人身下降
古典技巧：在岩场我们习惯用器楔确保、攀升或下降，万一登山途中只有携带简单的装备，以下这些老前辈
的招数就用得上了)
↓以伞带制作简易安全吊带
人身确保
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↓A：错误，站者用腰式确保磨擦力小。B：正确，坐者腰式确保增加磨擦力
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意大利半扣结(Italian Hitch or Munter Hitch)：由上方确保攀登者(second)时，相当有用的绳结；注意：
钩环用大 D型之保险钩环，操作绳索比较顺
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↓在紧急的时候，简单的 Munter-hitch 下降很好用。
钩环下降
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↓假如你的制动器不见了，钩环下降是不错的选择。
人身下降：左脚要比右脚高，否则会往后倒翻↓.
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坠落时注意事项
Two types of fall
1. Controlled fall
2. Surprised fall
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Fall: Better fall in control (Never climb with the rope behind your legs !)
• Always climb on a rope in good condition and trust your belayer
• Know where you are going to fall and be prepared (This is very important)
• Be careful to grab the rope, otherwise you may burn your hands
• Try to sit into your harness as you fall
• Keep your hands and feet for some protection
• Practice controlled falls will give you a better idea of what to expect
坠落：最好能在控制的情况下坠落（攀爬时绝不要让绳子绕到你腿后）
• 时时刻刻让主绳在最佳状态并且相信你的确保者
• 知道你可能在哪里坠落且做好准备（这个很重要）
• 抓绳可防止倒栽葱，但是要小心，不然手可能会因磨擦而灼伤
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• 坠落时试着正坐在安全吊带上（脱出吊带就完了）
• 小心你的手脚不要受伤
• 有预期的坠落会让你知道最好怎么做
• 尽量不要掉到绳子上或撞到任何东西
以下取材自 Petzl
The Fall
Eventually, if you keep climbing, you'll fall. In fact, if you never fall at all, you're probably
not pushing yourself very much in your climbing.
假如你一直攀爬，一定会有坠落的时候；实际上，假如你都没有坠落，表示你可能没有尝试你的极限。
Never climb with the rope behind your legs : in the event of a fall this guarantees a violent
topple backwards which may result in the head being bashed against the rock.
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绝对不要让绳子绕到你的腿后：因为这种情形坠落保证会猛烈后翻，头可能会去撞到石壁。
错误→ 正确→
There are basically two types of falls :
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- those that you see coming, even if only for a millisecond,
- and those that you don't, like when a hold breaks or the rock just suddenly shrugs you off for
no apparent reason.
• Controlled Fall. The first kind gives you a moment to prepare yourself for falling, even
sometimes to push off from the wall. That way you can position yourself so your head stays
up, you can hold on to the rope, and your body is prepared to take the impact as the rope
comes taut.
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• The "Surprise! " kind of fall is more dangerous, because your body is already falling by
the time the brain gets the news (that's the surprising part). And since it's already old
news, there's no question of reacting. This is why you should never be in a position where
it's too dangerous to fall -- with the rope behind your legs, for example, or where a fall
guarantees a big pendulum into an immovable object.
Your rope companion may fall without damage to himself, but perhaps injuring you. The sudden
shock of the fall risks propelling you violently into the cliff. Take particular care of
overhangs!
基本上有两种型式的坠落：
－你知道要发生的，即使是很短的时间
－你不知道会发生的，像是把手点断掉或是没什么明显的原因让你不知觉突然掉落
• 第一种让你有一点时间来准备坠落，甚至有时可以推离岩壁。这样你可以调整自己的方位让手空出，
你可以抓着绳子，然后准备接受绳子拉紧时的冲力。
• 突然来的坠落比较危险，因为当你意识到时身体已经坠落了（就是惊讶的部份），跟本来不及反应。这
就是为什么一定不能有一点点时间在危险的状态，例如绳子绕到脚后，或是坠落时会摆荡而撞到不会
动的东西。
你的绳伴在坠落时可能自己没有受伤，但是也许会伤到你；坠落突然的冲力可能猛烈的把你拉向石壁，
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在悬岩的地方要特别注意。
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