Competitive shop report - Natasha Stock

Allsaints & Religion

Buying and Merchandising

Competitive shop report - Natasha Stock

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Contents page

Introduction 2

AllSaints Spitalfields company overview 2

Company structure and size in the current economic climate 2

Current market consumer for AllSaints 2

AllSaints and it’s competitors 2

AllSaints Key department - Knitwear 2

Department research 2

Garment 1 - Allsaints 2

Garment 2 - Religion 2

Garment 3 - AllSaints 2

Garment 4 - Religion 2

Garment 5 - AllSaints 2

Garment 6 - Religion 2

Conclusion 2

References 2

Introduction

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This report compares the retailers AllSaints Spitalfields and Religion. Analysing a specific department will demonstrate the competition between retailers. An evaluation of the brands history, consumer and manufacturing will be carried out.

AllSaints Spitalfields company overview AllSaints was established in 1994 as a menswear brand, before expanding into womenswear in 1998, and more recently, children’s clothing, accessories and homeware. Before AllSaints expanded, they sold their clothing to Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Barney’s New York and Japan. They opened their first standalone store on All Saints day November 1st 1997, just off Carnaby street, London. The brand name is influenced by the 60’s TV icon Simon Templar aka ‘The Saint’, and All Saint’s Road in Notting Hill, historically known for it’s artistic and musical links. AllSaint’s brand influences come from regular collaboration and support of the music industry and the likes of U2, Stereophonics, Kelis, Robbie Williams and Kings of Leon have been known to work with the brand.

Company structure and size in the current economic climate

Figure 1

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AllSaints have 70 stores in the UK and are expanding globally with 122 outlets across Europe and America. In 2009 they launched an e-commerce website in the U.S as well as opening a concession on 59th Street Bloomingdales in New York. Recent store openings in the U.S include Los Angeles, San Francisco and Miami. Despite AllSaints having profit margins as big as ‘£132.9 million in 2010’, (1) the company has been struggling in the current economic climate. This headline in 2011 ‘AllSaints on the brink of last-minute rescue deal’, (2) represents the declining state of the company. However, on the 5th May 2012 it was published ‘Lion Capital and its US partner Goode bought the chain for £105m’. As 75% of AllSaints sales come from the UK the new ownership plan is to expand the chain much more widely. In 2011 AllSaints announced they would be partnering up with ‘Not For Sale’ the human trafficking group. David Batstone (president of Not For Sale) said, “In recent years, the fashion world has focused its attention primarily on environmental impact of manufacturing and product sourcing,” (3). A line of T-shirts has been designed by AllSaints and was launched at fashion week back in 2011.

Current market consumer for AllSaints

Figure 2

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The consumers are both male and female and can be more specifically analysed in the following categories:

Figure 2

Older married couples

Acorn classification

Consumer profile - aged 35-50

% of UK population

How group identify with brand image

Flourishing families

- Income - £40,000-£60,000

- Well-off, older professionals, large family houses and mortgages

- Family life cycle good financial position (between ‘Full nest 3’ and ‘Empty nest 1’)

- Liquid assets

8.8% - Tailored clothing suitable for work wear

- Can afford to spend money on expensive products

- Colour palette neutrals - no bright statement pieces

- Like the luxury of the fabrics used

Figure 3

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Acorn classification

Consumer profile 18-25

% of UK population

How group identify with brand image

Figure 4 Families

Acorn classification

Consumer profile - aged 25-30

% of UK population

How group identify with brand image

Urban prosperity

- Income - £30,000-£40,000

- Prosperous professionals - Family life cycle between

‘Full nest 1’ and ‘Full nest 2’

- Young children, limited liquid assets

- Financial position increasing, rely on overdraft

2.2% - Fashionable clothing in elegant shapes

- Prime age group for AllSaints product

- Like the edgy clothing without feeling too individual

- Have enough money to buy key pieces

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Acorn classification

Consumer profile 18-25

% of UK population

How group identify with brand image

Educated urbanites Aspiring singles

- Younger generation - Income - £5,000-£15,000 - Low income ‘Bachelor

stage’ in family life cycle - Few financial burdens - Targeted through viral

marketing

4.6 % 3.9 %

- Fashion, opinion leader led

- Influenced by media, music

- Like the edgy image - Identify with the more

individual products - Low budget

Student living

Figure 5

Figure 6

Students

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This is what the consumer group 18-25 thought of the AllSaints product. The majority associate the product with being expensive and having a distressed image. From the low income associated with this category it is clear that whilst consumers like the product, they are finding it difficult to afford. Whilst most people thought the product was of above average quality, a small percentage of the consumers believed the products to be of poor quality.

AllSaints and it’s competitors

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AllSaints has a variety of competitors both big and small. From high street chain stores like Urban Outfitters, to smaller boutique style brand such as Religion. Religion sells the most like-style garments and has a similar background to AllSaints. Religion started out in the 90s as a small t-shirt boutique in Shoreditch, London, and now has 12 stockists including House of Fraser. Religion, like AllSaints, is influenced heavily by by music and has done collaborations with Smiley, DC Comics and Warner Bros, also major clubs and DJs in Europe such as Space, Ministry of Sound and Ibiza Rocks. Upon questioning staff in House of Fraser, Manchester, it was found that the majority of consumers found Religion’s product to be distinctly similar to AllSaints distressed image, though slightly more colourful, and a cheaper alternative. The Religion consumers are drawn to the brand because of the individuality, links with the music industry and grunge, as well as British heritage with influences from London’s east end. This type of consumer is aged from 18-40 which is slightly lower age range than AllSaints, mainly due to the heavier focus on rock styled clothing and less on plain coloured garments which attract the older consumers to AllSaints.

AllSaints Key department - Knitwear

Figure 7

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Department key: Colours - neutral tones, plain colour and colour blocking. Prints - abstract weaves, stripes and tribal inspired. Fabrications - open weave, multiple yarn combinations and beading. Functional details - rusty buttons, string pull ties. Fabrics - viscose, linen, silk nylon, cotton, wool, lambswool and cashmere.

Cardigans - heavily textured yarn combinations and paneling. Fabrications - embellishment detailed sequin design.

Dresses - tribal influences, open weave for summer, used for layering, neutrals.

Jumpers - stripes are a key feature on the catwalk. Drawstring front adds to the grunge image. Cowl neck and draping - another trend. Black and neutrals key S/S colours.

T-shirt - open weave patterns, textures and colour all key details in AllSaints knitwear.

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Department research Garment 1 - Allsaints

Cure jumper - £95 Inspired by grunge, this jumper is made from a cotton blend woven tape yarn in a loose hand knit. The Cure jumper is cropped, has ribbed cuffs and neck trim with a dropped shoulder style. This garment is intended for layering.

Fabric: 44% Cotton 32% Linen 24% Ramie Country of origin: China Care instructions:

Delicate wash cycle 30°

Chlorine bleaching not possible

Dry cleaning is not possible

Do not tumble dry

Iron warm

Catwalk influences: The cure jumper is reflective of Joshua Schwartz (left) and Nomad Chic (right). The dropped shoulders, open weave, colours and layering technique all symbolise the grunge, edgy inspired look and are reflective of a lot of AllSaints knitwear.

Figure 8 Figure 9

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Analysis:

• Hand knit means there is a lot of quality control- but each garment will be slightly different

• Open weave suitable for spring/summer - as well as colour • Chunky texture knit but also contrasted against the tight weave of

the cuffs and neckline • Style inspired by grunge with its slouched shoulders and cropped

front - reflective of AllSaints brand image • Due to the thick weave used on this jumper, it will be durable

compared with smaller threads

Imperfections: The edging in picture 5 is slightly obscure, and in picture 4 on the seam of the dropped shoulder the fabric has been doubled up creating a bulge.

Picture 1

Picture 2

Picture 3

Picture 4

Picture 5

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Garment 2 - Religion

Branding:

• Swing tags in pictures 6 and 7, like Religion’s are attached by rope and a safety pin

• Look of tags in-keeping with brand’s image • Vintage looking with luggage tag shape and style

with the AllSaints logo, a ram’s head • Thicker than Religion’s and has metal ring at the top

adding value • Authentic and links in with high pricing of products • All tags on the products are the same, apart from

the sticker which details the product name and price • Labels in pictures 8 and 9 found inside the garment

detail how they should be cared for and what fabrics they are made from

• There is also another swing tag attached which has spare buttons - for the consumer this is a sign of quality

Evaluation:

• Quality of the composition of garment is high, although there are imperfections this is to be expected with hand made garments

• Consumer will appreciate the intricacy of weave and understand how fabric, style and manufacture of product reflects in price

• High price point but is consistent with like-products across AllSaints

• Sizing with garments range from 6-14 UK • This jumper was a 6 and the fit was in tow

with the style and the fabric made it comfortable to wear against skin

Picture 6 Picture 7 Picture 8

Picture 9

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Figure 10 Figure 11

Catwalk inspiration: These designs by Mark Fast show the the different textures created by the thickness of the weaves. This is similar to Religion’s jumper which has a repetitive pattern of open and closed weaves.

Holey knit jumper - £95 Hand knitted, loose weave. Wide rounded neckline, cropped sleeves. Draped trapeze cut with slits to sides. Dipped hem line at back, Loose fit. Fabric: 100% cotton Country of origin: Indonesia Care instructions:

Hand wash

Iron warm

Do not tumble dry

Chlorine bleaching not possible

Do not dry clean

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Analysis:

• Pictures 1 and 2 show the dropped hem at the back of the garment

• Slit at the side creating an obvious disjoining

• Adds to the slouched look of the jumper • Key style trending to have

dropped/dipped hems • Picture 3 shows the sleeve and

differences in weaves, a more open loop contrasted with a tighter loop creating a striped effect and adding texture to the garment

• This sort of style is good for layering Imperfections:

The garment has several imperfections due to the loose weave. In picture 4 the thread has pulled loose, and in picture 5 where it has been secured it has left a visible knot with loose threads.

Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3

Picture 4 Picture 5

Labeling on garment

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Garment 3 - AllSaints

Garment care:

• Religion wants to ensure the quality of their garments last, providing information about garment wear

• Consideration shows the consumer that they are buying an item of good quality

Labels:

• Swing tag labels attached by rope and safety pin • Logo clear and design suitable for brand’s identity • Religious element of the praying skeleton, the

blackened edges and the font represent Religion’s influences from music and rock stars and suit the distressed clothing

• Consumer receives authenticity from label ‘Enjoy wearing this piece of clothing as much as we enjoyed making it’

Evaluation - garments 1 and 2

AllSaints Religion

Price £95 £95

Product finish Good quality, some imperfections

Style of garment on trend, quick wearing

Colour Black, neutral Black

Fabric Mixture of fabrics, softer, thicker, longer lasting

Cotton

Care Spare button Detailed care label

Consumer Price reflective of quality Price not reflective of quality

Quality control Good Not good

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Frivolite dress - £165 A hand crochet dress with dry cotton, made with a machine and hand crochet body. Features 100% cotton tape yarn with float stitches. Individually hand crocheted, and it is featured on the label (as shown in picture 3) to show the consumer how unique the garment is. Fabric: 100% cotton Country of origin: China Care instructions:

Chlorine bleaching not possible

Regular dry cleaning

Do not tumble dry

Iron warm

Do not wash

Picture 1

Picture 2

Catwalk inspiration:

The colour palette on the catwalk is much brighter than AllSaints. In keeping with AllSaints style they stick with their own palette. However, the crochet knit, varying textures and the figure hugging style show the inspiration for this design.

Figure 12 Figure 13

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Imperfections:

• Neck crochet stitching come apart as shown in picture 3

• Handmade product is delicate - become a problem in this department

Analysis:

• Pictures 1 and 2 show the detail in the side of dress

• Different types of weave used, both tight and loose

• Suggests garment will be durable - reflected in yarn quality and the fact that it is manufactured using hand and machine techniques

Picture 1 Picture 2

Picture 6

Key:

• Shift dress style and fit moulds body creating elegant shape

• Mix between casual, elegant and London’s east end - where AllSaints derives inspiration for brand’s image

• Varying weaves coming through as a trend within the knitwear department

• Neckline - a big feature on garments

Analysis:

• Repetitive pattern of neckline (picture 4) reflecting down middle of dress shows complexity of design

• Black - key colour within AllSaints, made unique by the textures created from hand stitching complex designs like this one

Picture 3

Picture 4

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Garment 4 - Religion

Garment care:

• Acknowledgement to garment care - essential to making sure consumer is satisfied with product, both before and after purchase

Branding:

• Back label (picture 7) shows additional label detailing manufacture of garment

• Hand crochet much more complex than machine produced

• This results in the higher pricing • Hanger (picture 6) in-keeping with

authenticity of the brand • Distressed image reflected in the

font - links in with the look and colour of swing tag

Picture 5

Picture 6

Picture 7

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Knitted vest top - £65 Vest top featuring threading detail across the back and cut into the fabric at the front creating a distressed grunge look. Fabric: 100% cotton Country of origin: Indonesia Care instructions:

Hand wash

Iron warm

Do not tumble dry

Chlorine bleaching not possible

Do not dry clean

Catwalk inspiration: The distressed look of the bare threads hanging off these garments is reflected in Religions top. The neutral tones are trending throughout both retailers.

Figure 14 Figure 15

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Analysis:

• Hem (picture 1) is secured using ribbed stitching

• Good quality - reflects price • Shoulder seam (picture 3) shows the

stitching on seam pulling slightly out of shape, possibly because of the fabric type and the bulky yarn

• Religion’s consumer will expect lower price than AllSaints so fabrics and manufacture will not be as high standards - reflected in the different production methods of each company

Analysis:

• Knitted top with ribbed hem (picture 1) • Threads add to grunge image - torn effect • Lots of detailing - overall manufacture is a

simple knit and is done mostly by machine • Black is a key colour • Dull and neutral tones are key to both

departments - rarely prints or embellishment featured

• All down to the image that the brands portray and where they receive their inspiration from

Picture 1

Picture 4

Picture 2

Picture 3

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Garment 5 - AllSaints

Branding:

• Back label sewn in (picture 5) and has swing tag attached

• Stitching on either side of label neatly done. • Label matches hanger • Care labels detailed and show consumer how

to get the best wear out of garments • These are extra to the inside label (picture 6)

- attached to swing tag

Country of origin:

• Indonesia - pricing much cheaper than AllSaints suggests Indonesia produce cheaper manufactured clothes than China

• Religion may use cheaper fabrics than AllSaints due to the scale of the businesses - Religion only a boutique

Evaluation - garments 3 and 4

AllSaints Religion

Price £165 £65

Product finish Good quality, some obvious imperfections

Good quality

Colour Black, chalk Black

Fabric Cotton tape yarn Cotton

Care Information provided Detailed care label

Consumer Price reflective of quality Price reflective of quality

Quality control Good Good

Picture 5 Picture 6

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Takizen Nep Cardigan - £120

Japanese yarn square draped front cardigan with loose knit for a grunge inspired feel. Easy to wear piece, perfect for layering.

Fabric - 51% Wool 41% Silk 8% Nylon

Country of origin: China

Chlorine bleaching not possible

Regular dry cleaning

Do not tumble dry

Iron warm

Do not wash

Catwalk inspiration: The layered look in figure 17 is similar to the style of draping in the cardigan, and the colour and length in figure 16 shows the key styling for this type of garment.

Figure 16

Figure 17

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Garment 6 - Religion

Branding: This is the tag on the inside of the garment which also details what it is made from. Like Religion’s tags, the logo matches the hanger, and the style of the swing tags. The fact that it is Japanese yarn will make it more expensive.

Picture 1

Picture 2

Picture 3

Analysis:

• Flecked yarn adds individuality to a plain garment

• Mix of wool and silk gives soft luxurious feel - nylon helps retain shape

• Natural colour good for layering • Loose stitching gives open look

(picture 3) • Ribbing on collar (picture 2)

separates it from main knit

Analysis:

• Garment drapes well due to it being softer and weightier than cotton - something and a consumer will notice when trying on

• Has the look of a hand-knitted garment but less pricey as it is machine knit

• These aspects make a superior quality garment

Picture 4

Picture 5

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Union Jack cardigan - £90 A knitted drape fronted cardigan with a union jack print. Herringbone belt and trimmings with jersey side panels and a button fastening.

Fabric: 100% cotton knitted single jersey

Country of origin: Indonesia

Care instructions:

Hand wash

Iron warm

Do not tumble dry

Chlorine bleaching not possible

Do not dry clean

Picture 1

Catwalk inspiration: This jumper dress has a similar weight and shows how print is key for S/S no matter what the department. Religion have stuck to their image but used prints wisely.

Figure 18 Figure 19

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Picture 2 Picture 3

Picture 4

Analysis:

• Block colour pattern to form union jack is faded and vintage looking - in keeping with Religion’s style and catwalk trends for prints

• Overall effect of print striking and on trend for British heritage

• Stitching is neatly sewn around arm (pictures 3 and 5) and side seams (pictures 2 and 4)

• Drape of garment less softly (picture 1) compared to AllSaints - possibly due to fabrics used

Picture 5

Picture 6

Picture 7

Analysis:

• Contrast of softer edging and open knit (picture 6)

• 100% cotton means fabric is stiffer and likely to become misshapen, unlike AllSaints cardigan

• Button fastening detail not featured on any other garments - the most functional details out of garments analysed

• Different ways to wear garment - multifunctional

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Evaluation - garments 5 and 6

AllSaints Religion

Price £120 £90

Product finish Good quality Good quality

Colour Dark pebble marl, ebony Red, grey

Fabric Mixture of wool, silk - expensive fabrics - soft luxurious

Cotton - single jersey

Care Information provided Detailed care label

Consumer Price reflective of quality Price reflective of quality

Quality control Good Good

Conclusion The branding with AllSaints looks more expensive and is coherent with garment styles. Religion has a similar style, but their image is less luxurious. However, Religion has better quality care information than AllSaints so this is something AllSaints needs to improve.

Analysis:

• Loops (picture 8) neatly sewn - good quality control

• Jersey matching all edges of garment

• Fastening - long belt, can be worn different ways

Picture 8

Picture 9

Picture 10 Picture 11 Picture 12

Branding:

• Shows the material and the place of manufacture (Picture 11)

• Matches hanger - good for image (picture 10)

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It is clear that AllSaints have a superior product as they use better quality fabrics and the garments are well constructed. Consumers who can afford the products will be willing to spend the money to get them, whilst ones with limited funds will find Religion a cheaper alternative.

References

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(1) Available from: http://www.fasttrack.co.uk/fasttrack/leagues/dbDetails.asp?siteID=1&compID=2998&yr=2010. (online) [Accessed 29th April 2012]

(2) Available from: http://www.guardian.co.uk/business/2011/may/05/fashion-chain-all-

saints-bought-by-lion-capital?INTCMP=SRCH. (online) [Accessed 29th April 2012] (3) Available from: http://www.allsaints.com/not_for_sale/. (online) [Accessed 29th April

2012] Figure 1: Available from: http://givemeyourforeverdotcom.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/givemeyourforever12.jpg (online) [Accessed 29th April 2012] Figure 2: Available from: http://www.allsaints.com/not_for_sale/ (online) [Accessed 30th April 2012] Figure 3: Available from: http://www.estateplanningsocal.com/images/text/married-couple.jpg (online) [Accessed 30th April 2012] Figure 4: Available from: http://www.eatdrink.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/business-people_000001227086small.jpg (online) [Accessed 30th April 2012] Figure 5: Available from: http://www.gillams-properties.co.uk/property_images/Old%20Tiverton%2003.JPG (online) [Accessed 2nd May 2012] Figure 6: Available from: http://www.loughborough-student-houses.com/asset/image/pic1.jpg (online) [Accessed 2nd May 2012] Figure 7: Available from: http://www.religionclothing.co.uk/index.php (online) [Accessed 2nd April 2012] Figures 8, 9, 16, 17, 18, 19: Available from: http://knitgrandeur.blogspot.co.uk/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00-05:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00-05:00&max-results=44 (online) [Accessed 14th May 2012] Figures 10, 11, 12, 14, 15: Available from: http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/S2012RTW-MFAST (online) [Accessed 14th May 2012] Figure 13: Available from: http://www.thetrendboutique.co.uk/spring-summer-2012-fashion-trend-report/a (online) [Accessed 14th May 2012] All page 14 images available from: http://www.allsaints.com/women/knitwear/ (online) [Accessed 13th May 2012] AllSaints logo available from: http://media33.onsugar.com/files/2011/09/35/5/1136/11366844/e35e4d7f2e134fc8_AllSaints_logo.xxlarge.jpg (online) [Accessed 30th April 2012]

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Religion logo available from: http://www.brighterman.com/upload/photo/logo/large/Religion-logo-black-on-white-with-web-address-300dpi38.jpg (online) [Accessed 30th April 2012]