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Build a Bluebird Nest Box Design by Lee Pauser [email protected] Graphics by David Altknecht December 14, 2012 Copyright © 2012 The contents of this plan cannot be used for commercial purposes. Non-commercial endeavors may use the plan as long as it remains as a single entity, and proper acknowledgement is given its author.

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Page 1: Build a Bluebird Nest Box - SCVAS · Build a Bluebird Nest Box December 14, ... Corners cut off the box’s bottom provide drainage should water ... 2 Right Side 9 5” 12-1/2”

Build a Bluebird Nest BoxDesign by Lee Pauser

[email protected]

Graphics by David Altknecht

December 14, 2012

Copyright © 2012

The contents of this plan cannot be used for commercial purposes.Non-commercial endeavors may use the plan as long as it remains as a

single entity, and proper acknowledgement is given its author.

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Foreword

This document provides the information needed to build a hanging bluebirdnest box specifically designed for the Western Bluebird, but the design canbe scaled for other species and modified to produce a nest box that is to bemounted.

The attributes of the nest box are in large part a compilation of featuresnoted in other designs, and deemed beneficial for a successful nestingexperience.

Acknowledgement

This plan would not havebeen possible without thecontributions of DavidAltknecht who providedthe bulk of the graphicsherein. Thank you, Dave!

I would also like to thankChuck Wade whounknowingly provided methe stimulus to authorthis plan. Chuck has beenan active Audubonsupporter for yearsproviding it hisorganizational, hands-oninvolvement and materialsupport. Chuck is one ofthe rare individuals thatcan always be countedon. One example of hiswillingness to help is thatwithout hesitation heagreed to review andcomment on this plan.Thank you, Chuck!

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Contents

Foreword.............................................................................................2Acknowledgement ................................................................................2Introduction.........................................................................................4Required Materials ................................................................................6Recommended Tools .............................................................................6Cutlist .................................................................................................7Finishing the Parts ................................................................................8

Bottom.............................................................................................8Portal ...............................................................................................8Top ..................................................................................................9Front and Back ................................................................................10

Front ...........................................................................................10Back............................................................................................11Final Front and Back Step ..............................................................11

Left and Right Sides .........................................................................12Hanger Wire Block ...........................................................................14Ladder Block ...................................................................................15Hanger Wire....................................................................................16

Assembly...........................................................................................17Attach Ladder Block to Front .............................................................17Attach Back to Left Side ...................................................................17Attach the Bottom ...........................................................................18Attach the Front ..............................................................................19Attach the Right Side (Door) .............................................................20Prepare the Top...............................................................................21Align and Attach the Top...................................................................22

Hanging Box.................................................................................22Mounted Box ................................................................................22

Secure the Hanger Wire....................................................................23Attach the Portal..............................................................................24Install Door Pull ...............................................................................24Install Door Stop and Lock Screws .....................................................25Form the Hanger Wire’s Hook............................................................26Check the Box .................................................................................27Seal the Box ...................................................................................27

The Payoff .........................................................................................28

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Introduction

There are many designs for nest boxes available, so why is this designbetter?

1. It’s a hanging box whichprovides the advantage ofeasy installation (thisassumes that a suitable treeis available), and portability.Once suspended in a tree,the box will benefit from thetree’s shade which will keepthe interior of the box coolerwhich in turn reduces theloss of nestlings duringperiods of extreme hightemperatures. A hangingbox also provides increasedprotection from predators.

2. The box is side-opening withthe opening side beingbottom hinged. This allows amonitor easy access to theinside of the box. By slightlyopening the side, a monitorcan quickly ascertain thebox’s contents, and proceedaccordingly. A side openingbox also provides asecondary and easy exit forany bird wanting to exit thebox.

3. The box has flow-through ventilation (not obvious in the drawing)which also helps to keep the box’s interior cooler. The ventilation isenabled by ½” gaps at the top edge of both sides.

4. Drip guards cut into the top’s underside prevent wind-driven rain frommigrating into the box’s interior. During periods of inclement weather,nestlings can die from hypothermia should they get wet.

5. Corners cut off the box’s bottom provide drainage should water enterthe box.

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6. A portal or predator guard over the entrance hole inhibits predation byputting the interior of the box out of reach for most predators.

7. The roof’s extended over-hang also provides increased protection frompredators that may be positioned on the roof.

8. A ladder block which enables the nestlings to more easily climb to theentrance hole and provides a perch that is more recessed than theentrance hole itself providing nestlings additional protection.

9. Lastly, the box is made from 5/8” thick exterior grade (CDX) plywood.Plywood frees a builder from the constraints imposed by thedimensions of stock lumber (e.g. the stock’s width limiting the box’soutside dimensions which imposes a floor size of less than 5” x 5”).Nest boxes made from exterior grade plywood will provide many yearsof use in a woodpecker free environment.

This nest box is more difficult to build than most other styles, but theadvantages provided outweigh the added effort.

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Required Materials

The below list identifies the materials needed to build 9 nest boxes.

One 4’ x 8’ sheet of 5/8” thick CDX rated (exterior grade) plywood

Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue

1-1/2” brad nails1 (approximately 200)

1” brad nails1 (approximately 60)

9 1-5/8” long square bend screws (used to lock doors closed)

9 1” exterior wood screw (used for door pulls, and to attach the portals)

9 1-1/4” exterior wood screw (used as door stops)

18 Double-headed or duplex nails (used as hinge pins)

9 48” lengths of 9 gauge tension wire2

One tube of silicone sealant (GE Premium Waterproof Silicone)

Recommended Tools

Pencil

Brad nailer1

Power drill driver or Phillips screw driver

A drill and bits

1-1/2” Forstner Bit

Tapered Countersink Bit

Tape measure

Table saw

Router with 1/8” roundover bit

Pliers

Hammer

For hanging nest boxes, a hacksaw to cut wire.

For hanging nest boxes, a drill brace to twist the hanger wire.

1 A brad nailer is used to tack the boxes together while the wood glue sets. Once set, thewood glue primarily holds the box together. Other approaches can be used in lieu of a nailersuch as wood screws or nails, however, steps must be taken to avoid splitting the wood.2 This 9 gauge wire is normally used as a tension wire to stabilize chain link fencing.

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Cutlist

The below cutlist and parts list provide information on how to optimally cutthe parts for 9 boxes from a single sheet of 4’ x 8’ plywood. The followingsteps assume that you have rough cut the parts using the below cutlist.

Part # Description Copies Rough Y

Dimension

Rough X

Dimension

1 Bottom 9 5” 5”

2 Right Side 9 5” 12-1/2”

3 Left Side 9 5” 12-1/2”

4 Front Side 9 6-3/16” 11-3/4”

5 Back Side 9 6-3/16” 12-3/4”

6 Top 9 9” 10-1/4”

7 Portal 9 3-1/2” 5”

83 Hanger Wire Blocks 1 1-1/2” 31-1/2”

93 Ladder Blocks 1 2-1/2” 25-1/2”

3 This strip will later be cut into 9 separate blocks.

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Finishing the Parts

Before beginning assembly, finish the following parts as shown. Some partshave their edges rounded using a router with a 1/8” roundover bit to providea finished look.

BottomThe corners of the bottom are cutoff to provide for drainage.

Portal

Finishing the portal involves:

Drilling four 5/32” holesthrough the portal for themounting screws. Theseholes should be counter-sunkso the tops of the screws willbe flush with the portal.

Drilling the entrance hole. A1-1/2” Forstner Bit providesa smooth finished hole.

Rounding the portal’soutward facing edges.

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Top

The top requires:

The front and back edges to be cut at a 10 degree angle. The two drip guards to be cut. The upper side and back edges to be rounded. If the box is to be a hanging box, a hole to be drilled near the center

of the top for the hanger wire. The diameter of this hole should beslightly larger than the diameter of the hanger wire--11/64”.

The door stop screw should be added in the final assembly steps.

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Front and Back

It is beneficial to inspect and pair the rough cut parts to decide which partand side would best suited where. Consideration should be given to the partsthat will be hinged to the right side near its bottom edge—knots or materialfaults can negate adequate material for proper hinge installation. Also, whichside of the part has the better appearance—place the better looking side out.

Front

Finishing the front will involve:

Cutting the front to length at the angle indicated. Drilling the entrance hole. A 1-1/2” Forstner Bit provides a smooth and

finished hole. Rounding the edges as indicated.

Note: Defer drilling the hinge nail’s hole for now.

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Back

Finishing the back will involve:

Cutting the top to length at the angle indicated.

If the box is to be a hanging box, a hole to be drilled for the hangerwire. The diameter of this hole should be slightly larger than thediameter of the hanger wire.

Rounding the edges as indicated.

Note: Defer drilling the hinge nails and L-screws holes for now.

Final Front and Back Step

Pair the front and back together then drill the holes in the front and back forthe double-headed hinge nail at the same time. The diameter of these holesshould be slightly larger that the diameter of the nail so the hinge willoperate smoothly.

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Left and Right Sides

As with the front and back, it is beneficial to inspect and pair the rough cutparts to decide which part and side would best suited where. Considerationshould be given to the parts that will become the right side which will behinged near its bottom edge—knots or material faults can negate adequatematerial for proper hinge installation. Also, which side of the part has thebetter appearance—place the better looking side out.

The left and right sides arefinished almost identically.The only difference is thatthe left side will have a widthof 5”, and the right side awidth of 4-15/16” plushaving a door pull.

Note that it is the right sidethat is pictured—the rightside has a width of 4 15/16”,and a door pull screw.Although the screw’s locationis shown, defer installing ituntil a later step.

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At this point it is advised to determine the exact angle that the top of thesides are to be cut off. Eighty degrees is the expected angle, but otherfactors can change the exact angle.

To determine the exact angle, temporarily set a top, back, and left sidetogether as if assembled. Using a straight edge placed on the upper top andback edges and next to the left side’s top. Draw a pencil line on the side.The left and right sides are to be cut ½” below this line to provide theventilation gaps.

Having verified the angle of the cut, prepare to cut a pair of sides (left andright) by facing the good sides of each side outward, and laying the pairagainst the saw’s miter gauge and fence. Align the pair’s edges, and cut thetops of both sides at the same time.

Cut the right side to a width of 4-15/16”.

Lastly, round the sides’ outside bottom edges.

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Hanger Wire Block

The hanger wire block is only needed if the box is to be a hanging box. If thebox is to be a mounted box, skip this step.

Caution should be used when cutting small parts such as this. It is advisedto:

1. Initially cut a single strip of plywood that is 1 ½” wide, and longenough to provide the total number of blocks plus additional materialwhich will allow for handling the material right up through the timethat the last block is cut out.

2. Cut the wire hanger slot into the strip as indicated below.

3. Cut to length the required number of hanger blocks being especiallycareful while the last blocks are cut.

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Ladder Block

Caution should be used when cutting small parts such as this. It is advisedto:

1. Initially cut a single strip of plywood that is 2 1/2” wide and longenough to provide the total number of blocks plus additional materialwhich will allow for handling the material right up through the timethat the last block is cut out.

2. Cut the block’s six slots to a depth of 5/16” into the strip as indicatedbelow.

3. Cut to width the required number of ladder blocks being especiallycareful while the last blocks are cut.

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Hanger Wire

The hanger wire is only needed if the box is to be a hanging box. If the boxis to be a mounted box, skip this step.

Each hanger wire is made from a 48” length of 9 gauge tension wire.Although the wire is stiff, the hook portion of the wire is doubled and twistedto insure that the hook doesn’t straighten due to the box’s weight, severeweather buffeting, or vandalism.

To finish the hanger:

1. cut 48” length or wire2. at 16” fold one end of the wire over onto itself3. clamp the end of the 16” section and the longer section

tightly together in a large vice (5” or larger)4. insert and tightly lock the folded end into the jaws of a

brace drill5. quickly turn the handle of the drill numerous times to

twist the wire on itself.

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Assembly

Attach Ladder Block to FrontPut a spot of glue on the back side of the ladder block, center the block withthe kerf cuts horizontally ½” below the entrance hole on the inside side ofthe front, and tack it with two 1” brads.

Attach Back to Left SidePlace the left side on the work surface with front edge down. Apply glue tothe side’s back edge. To provide temporary stability, place the bottom nextto the left side’s inside as pictured.

After positioning the parts, tack the back to the left side.

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Attach the Bottom

A 1” thick spacer block is useful in positioning the bottom as shown. (It isimportant that the bottom’s underside be 1” from the box’s bottom edge toinsure that the side door can be fully opened.)

Apply glue to 2 edges of the bottom, position the bottom, and Tack it to theback and left side.

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Attach the Front

Lay the assembled parts on the work surface as shown. Apply glue to theupright bottom’s and side’s edges. Align the front as shown, and Tack it tothe assembly.

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Attach the Right Side (Door)

Position the assembly front side up on the work surface. Position the rightside in place, and drill one hole through the front’s double-headed nail hole,and into the right side. For a snug fit, the diameter of the hole should beslightly less than the diameter of the nails. To avoid splitting the side, insurethat you drill to a depth equal to the driven length of the nail. Carefully driveone nail into the just-drilled hole.

Turn the assembly over, and execute the procedure again to secure the rightside to the back.

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Prepare the Top

This step is only needed if the box is to be a hanging box. If the box is to bea mounted box, skip this step.

Stand the assembly upright on the work surface. Insert a hanger wirethrough the top and bend it as shown. Apply glue to the top edges of thefront and back. Feed the bent end of the wire through the hole in the back.

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Align and Attach the Top

Hanging BoxAfter applying glue to the front’s and back’s edges, align the top to theassembly as shown below, and Tack it to the assembly.

Mounted BoxAfter applying glue to the front’s and back’s edges, align the top’s back edgeflush and centered with the back. As pictured above, you should maintain anequal gap on both side edges of the right side. Failure to do so could causethe side to bind.

Once alignment is proper, Tack the top to the assembly.

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Secure the Hanger WireThis step is only needed if the box is to be a hanging box. If the box is to bea mounted box, skip this step.

Bend the end of the hanger wire as shown. Apply glue to the Hanger WireBlock, position the block over the wire and snug it against the top. Tack theblock to the back using four 1” long brad nails.

Open the side of the box, turn the box upside, place the top on the edge ofthe work surface, and, using a small hammer, form the wire inside the boxas close to the top as possible so that the gap between the wire and top isminimal.

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Attach the Portal

Align the portal on the assembly’sfront, and attach it using 4 1” longscrews. The portal is not glued allowingit to be replaced should circumstancesrequire it.

Install Door Pull

Partially insert a 1” long screw into theright side as shown. This screw willserve as a door pull.

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Install Door Stop and Lock ScrewsInstall a 1-14/” screw into the underside of the top for the door stop. Whenproperly installed. The door will be tight and flush with the front’s and back’sedges when the door is closed.

Drill a hole into the back’s right edge for the door lock. The hole’s diametershould be slightly less than the diameter of the lock screw (square bendscrew). Insure that the depth of the hole equals the length of the lockscrew’s threaded end (1-5/8”). Insert the lock screw.

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Form the Hanger Wire’s HookThis step is only needed if the box is to be a hanging box. If the box is to bea mounted box, skip this step.

Form the doubled portion of the hanger wire into a hook.

Prior to actually hanging the box, the hook should be reformed to be slightlylarger than the branch from which the box will hang with the hook’s depthsufficient to prevent the box from dropping. Additionally, the hook can beturned so that the box faces in the desired direction and can be easilyinstalled and retrieved.

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Check the BoxAt this point a few checks should be made:

1. Inspect the inside of the box to insure that there isn’t anything sharpprotruding that could injure the inhabitants. Look for splinters of wood,or brad nails that took an unexpected turn. Remove, bend or cut offthe protrusion.

2. Open and close the side door to insure that it doesn’t bind. Asdesigned, the door’s total clearance is just 1/16”, and due to materialwarping or inaccurate cutting the door may bind or rub on thefront/back. During periods of rain some swelling of these parts isnormal which further aggravates any binding. If binding is observed,remove the door and trim its width slightly. Install and test the dooragain. Trim again if necessary.

Seal the BoxAs a final step, seal the box using silicone sealant. Points to seal include:

If the box has a hanger wire, seal the area around the wire where itpasses through the top’s outside.

The outside back of the box where the top and back meet.

Any opening in the exposed plywood due missing layers or knots.

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The Payoff

Seven Western Bluebird eggs

Five just hatched Western Bluebirds

Five 21 day-old WesternBluebird nestlings