January 2013 | n°60Special issue

Vivons le thé

Pu Er Meng Lai

New items

“In tea, we find friendship and eternity.” Japanese proverb

Contents

Editorial

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Shopping & new items

The Théophile card

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Vivons le thé

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18• Recipe

Rare andEphemeral Teas

Tasting notes

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Some people need a breathing space; they don’t want to spend all their time rushing around. Some want to try everything.Some need to get back in touch with themselves, when they find the world a tough place to be. Some feel transported by it. Some like to take their time with it. Some can’t live without it. Some have had enough of consumption for consumption’s sake. They like to find meaning in everything they do.

Some want to do themselves some good, who do it when their children are at school. Some dream of it at the weekend, cosy in bed.Some cherish it as a ritual; they savour every moment of their lives. Some save it for their friends.Some like it hot; some don’t want to live without it any longer.Some are looking for inner harmony; they want to give life meaning.

Some are in search of delicious treats; some enjoy it with a book by the fire. Some say it does their soul good.Some enjoy it during a walk through the woods. Some always have it with them. Some appreciate it as a relaxing moment with colleagues.Some associate it with a precious moment. Some people are inspired by it.Some hold their bowl or mug in both hands as they contemplate a beautiful landscape, allowing their mind to wander.

Some love consuming healthy products.Some people’s lives are changed by it, they are com-forted by it. Some find happiness in the simplest things.

Together, let’s say: Vivons le thé!

François-Xavier DelmasFounder, Le Palais des Thés

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Choosing the rarest, finest teas in the world.Meeting growers, finding out about their lives, sharing their daily experiences.Understanding the quest for excellence that motivates a planter when he puts all his efforts into producing the best tea.Guaranteeing quality and ethical standards and ensuring that certain principles we hold dear are upheld on the plantations, and that the people and the planet are treated with respect.Discovering how tea is consumed around the world, outside our western traditions.

Living the life of tea means...

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Delmas Bari is a parcel of land on a Darjeeling tea estate which has been planted in honour of Palais des Thés.For me, it symbolises the lasting friendships I enjoy with planters in this region.

Mathias Minet joined me in this venture with Palais des Thés more than 15 years ago.

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Deepening our appreciation and knowledge of tea and the art of tasting every day.Defining the best preparation method for each tea so that it expresses the full potential of its leaves.Passing on the considerable body of knowledge we have acquired over the years – this is natural and essential for us. This means playing our role as initiator, as intermediary, every day at The Tea School and in our stores. It means taking each one of you by the hand and guiding you, so that tea becomes part of your lives as it has become part of ours.

Living the life of tea means...

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At The Tea School, Carine Baudry teaches the art of tea tasting.

Around the world, professional tasters use the same tasting set.

With Sylvain Sendra, we create original recipes using tea.

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Living the life of tea means...

Finding an essential source of pleasure and wellbeing in this drink.Sharing emotions as we share tea. Finding comfort in a steaming cup, bowl or mug. Doing yourself good with a healthy, beneficial drink.Exploring the infinite variety of sensations from flavours, smells and all the senses.Understanding and recognising that tea is much more than just a drink, that it plays an important part in our lives.Sharing our belief that making time for tea restores us, allows us to regain strength, gives us perspective in our everyday lives, and helps us live in harmony.

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One day I was walking with Mathias along the shore of the Bosphorus, and we came across a step where a woman was sitting, selling herbs and spices for the “hammam” steam baths. The smell was delicious, and it gave us the idea for our Thé du Hammam.

Why don’t you share your story about the role tea plays in your life!

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Shopping & new items

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Store your tea properly and it will last much longer. These lacquered metal canisters designed for Le Palais des Thés do the job perfectly. They will keep your favourite teas away from light and air. The canisters are available in four lively colours and hold up to 100g (3.5oz) of tea.

1. « Vivons le thé » red canister réf.V409A.

2. Vivons le thé » blue canister réf.V409B.

3. « Vivons le thé » white canister réf.V409D.

4. « Vivons le thé » green canister réf.V409C.

The new collection of four “Vivons le thé” mugs provides the perfect fuss-free way to enjoy a cuppa. They are the ideal size for infusing a tea bag, so make sure you have one to hand wherever you make tea, at home or in the workplace. Go ahead and “Vivons le thé”!

« Vivons le thé » red mug réf.N353A.

« Vivons le thé » green mug réf.N353C.

« Vivons le thé » white mug réf.N353D.

« Vivons le thé » blue mug réf.N353B.

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canisters

Mugs

Mao Feng Imperial

Shopping & new items

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Tea selections – 48 cotton tea bags of whole leaf tea

My tea for

Contains eight cotton muslin bags of each of the following six teas: Thé des Moines, Grand Yunnan Impérial, Sencha Ariake, Big Ben, Thé des Lords, Goût Russe 7 agrumes.

My tea for the morning 48 tea bags of 2g réf.DMAT.

My tea for

Contains eight cotton muslin bags of each of the following six teas: Darjeeling Margaret’s Hope, Blue of London, Thé du Hammam, Fleur de Geisha, Thé des Sources, Thé des Alizés.

My tea for the office 48 tea bags of 2gréf.DBUR.

Green tea with ginger and citrus

Vive le thé ! 20 cotton tea bags réf.D496S.

Vive le thé ! 3.5oz canister réf.DV496A.

My tea for

Contains eight cotton muslin bags of each of the following six teas: Rooibos verbena, Rooibos chamomile, Rooibos des Vahinés, Rooibos du Hammam, Rooibos des Lords, Rooibos des Amants.

My tea for the evening 48 tea bags of 2g réf.DSOIR.

For a refreshing, delicately flavoured way to start the day, a delicious break from work, or a relaxing moment in the evening... Tea can be enjoyed throughout the day with these three tea bag selections: “My tea for the morning”, “My tea for the office” and “My tea for the evening”. Each selection box contains six types of tea, each in eight cotton muslin bags with 2g of tea. Dip in and choose according to your mood!

Available from early February in stores and online.

Delicately flavoured with citrus fruit and ginger, Vive le thé ! is a green tea that will lift your spirits and liven up your life! With delicious pieces of orange, it can be enjoyed hot or iced.

The Vive Le Thé ! lacquered metal canister keeps the tea away from light and air, and makes an attractive addition to any kitchen. Loose tea too fiddly or time consuming? Vive le thé ! will also be available in boxes of 20 tea bags.

For fans of China green teas, Mao Feng Impérial is a green tea from Zhejiang with vegetal, mineral and floral notes. This tea has been produced to excellent environmental standards! An ideal tea for fans of fine China green teas, who are looking for a unique yet approachable tea.

réf.256.

Harvested in the Yunnan region, Pu Er comes from Da Ye bushes, a large leaf variety. After processing, it is sold in cakes or bricks, two traditional forms of compressed tea.

Tasting notesPu Er Meng Lai

Also find our full selection of Rare and Ephemeral Teas on-line at www.palaisdesthes.com

Origin: Yunnan, China

Tea colour: dark tea

Length of infusion: 4’

Water temperature: 90°C / 195°F

Dry leavesAspect: rolled leaves.Colour: dark brown.Scents: animal, undergrowth, damp cellar, damp wood.

InfusionScents: mineral and undergrowth notes to start, with damp wood and mushroom aromas. The animal note is much less noticeable than with the dry leaf.

LiquorColour: a dark red liquor with black glints.Texture: a supple texture which gives this tea plenty of roundness and fullness.Flavours: sweet, umami.Aromas: undergrowth at the start (humus), mushroom, woody (damp wood), liquorice, with hints of mineral, cellar aromas that bring livelier accents to the profile.Aromatic profile and length in the mouth: very round with no break in the notes. Mushroom (chestnut mushroom) and rose notes develop towards the finish. Very long-lasting.

Our verdict:The full, very supple texture sustains undergrowth, liquorice and damp wood notes that develop in the mouth. A dominant mushroom note lingers at the end for several minutes. This tea was harvested near Cang Yuan, on Meng Lai mountain in Yunnan province. Planted more than 30 years ago, the bushes benefit from excellent conditions. The soil is rich in humus with a slightly acidic pH, which is good for growing tea bushes and helps give these teas their delicious aromas.

ref.2145.

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Lao Pu Er Shu Cha 2004Dry leavesAspect: large twisted, rolled leaves (roughly rolled, with some stems).Colour: very dark brown.Scents: undergrowth, damp wood, damp earth, animal, leather, cooked mushroom.

InfusionScents: round notes, damp wood, cooked mushroom, an animal hint.

LiquorColour: an amber liquor with black glints.Texture: full, round in the mouth.Flavour: umami.Aromas: very round, damp wood, a hint of leather to start before developing mushroom (wild mushrooms), damp cellar and mineral notes.Aromatic profile and length in the mouth: a lovely sweet length. The mushroom, liquorice and damp wood notes remain, evolving in a continuous succession. A delicious, well-balanced tea.

Our verdict: A beautiful amber colour and an attack redolent of old leather-bound books. Round to start, it quickly coats the palate with intense, refined notes of mushroom and damp cellar. A lovely aromatic length with well-balanced liquorice and damp wood notes. An unusual but characteristic flavour and very intense aromas make this an excellent tea to enjoy from mor-ning to night!

ref.2148.

Pu Er Lao Qing Mao Cha 2005Dry leavesAspect: large, perfectly processed leaves with plenty of large downy buds.Colours: very dark green, black and golden.Scents: animal, straw, pronounced leather, with warm, woody notes and lively, vegetal hints.

InfusionScents: animal, wet grass, mineral, a hint of zest, yellow fruit, aniseed.

LiquorColour: a golden straw-coloured liquor.Texture: a slight astringency that coats the mouth and gives this tea a good presence.Flavours: acidity with a touch of umami.Aromas: mineral, metallic, aniseed (angelica), vegetal, zesty (lime, yuzu), with hints of animal and damp earth.Aromatic profile and length in the mouth: a lingering freshness in the mouth with mineral, vegetal, zesty and aniseed notes. These persist and remain very intense throughout. The notes found in green Pu Ers are typical of the terroir and the Da Ye bushes.

Our verdict: This exceptional green Pu Er dates from 2005. Its delicate astringency gives the tea fullness and character. The mineral, vegetal, zesty and animal notes are incredibly long-lasting in the mouth.

ref.2147.

Warning!

All the teas presented in these pages are Rare and Ephemeral Teas, harvested in very small quantities and available at a given moment without the guarantee of a sustained supply. Available until the batch has gone, these teas may therefore go out of stock very quickly.

Rare and Ephemeral TeasExtract from our selection

Also find full details of the tasting notes for these teas on-line at www.palaisdesthes.com

Chinese Pu Er

Pu Er Cha Huang 2011Dry leavesAspect: large evenly-sized leaves with plenty of attractive buds. Colour: pale brown with whitish highlights.Scents: animal, marine (algae, shellfish), fruit and tree moss notes.

InfusionScents: an animal attack with stable aromas (blend of animal notes and damp straw), sweet vanilla and a hint of fruit (banana, jasmine).

LiquorColour: a dark brown liquor with black glints.Texture: a full texture with a delicate lingering astringency.Flavour: umami.Aromas: a pronounced, heady attack with damp earth, tree moss, damp cave notes and a sweeter hint of vanilla, with lively accents (floral, jasmine, fruit, liquorice). Aromatic profile and length in the mouth: the notes then develop aromas of damp wood and mushroom.

Our verdict: Harvested at an altitude of 1,200 metres, this Pu Er has lovely rich earthy and tree moss aromas. A sweet vanilla note is beautifully enhanced by the supple texture. A lovely long mushroom note.

ref.2146.

Pu Er Gong Tin Qi Zi Bing Cha 2008Dry leavesAspect: lovely compressed leaves.Colours: black leaves with a hint of brown.Scents: undergrowth, animal, damp earth.

InfusionScents: undergrowth, damp earth, fruit, liquorice.

LiquorColour: a clear, gleaming liquor with an amber colour and black glints.Texture: very round and full in the mouth.Flavour: umami.Aromas: undergrowth and mushroom to start (first wild mushroom then white mushroom). Very round and sweet, while developing intensity. Damp earth note.Aromatic profile and length in the mouth: harmonious, with no interruption in the sensory profile. The umami flavour contributes to the roundness, while the length is marked by mushroom juice and undergrowth notes.

Our verdict: This Pu Er cake, which has been delicately aged since 2008 at the Yi Hen Xiang Tea Factory, is a treat for tea connoisseurs. The infusion is an impec-cable, sublime amber liquor: absolutely magnificent. The round and full qualities in the mouth are evident beneath the cover of a fine sweetness and a profusion of undergrowth, mushroom and damp earth aromas, to be savoured and appre-ciated. A wonderful discovery! Diameter: 19 cm – net weight: 0.345 kg

ref.C288.

SUNGMA DJ 450 “CLASSIC” S.F.T.G.F.O.P.1Dry leavesAspect: evenly rolled leaves.Colour: reddish brown.Scents: rich aromas: pronounced fruit (cooked fruit), floral, woody, candied citrus (orange) and vanilla notes, with a hint of toast and bread crust.

InfusionScents: floral, woody, dried fruit, with a hint of spice.Colour: a clear, gleaming liquor with a coppery orange colour.Texture: a supple texture, very full in the mouth with a delicate astringency that sustains the notes, giving them length.Aromas: a very round profile with harmonious notes of sweet vanilla and fruit (dried and stewed fruit, stewed apple, pear, raisin), woody aromas (dried wood), and a floral, rose accent (geranium) which makes the aromas more complex.Aromatic profile and length in the mouth: long woody, dried fruit and liquorice notes.

Our verdict: This lot is from one of the coldest gardens in Darjeeling, close to Nepal. The crops, and therefore their quality, can be affected by unfavourable weather, which is why Palais des Thés hasn’t worked with this garden for the past two years. This plucking is remarkable for the way it is sustained in the mouth and for its harmonious, generous aromas: woody, vanilla, dried fruit and liquorice notes.

ref.0174.

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Our selection of Rare and Ephemeral Teas is renewed and extended in line with our travels and discoveries. In order to find out about our arrivals as soon as possible, we invite you to register for our newsletter on our website, www.palaisdesthes.com

Puttabong DJ 551 S.F.T.G.F.O.P.1Dry leavesAspect: evenly rolled leaves.Colour: dark brown.Scents: warm, round notes: wax-polished wood, dark honey, stewed fruit, jam and vanilla, with hints of cocoa.

InfusionScents: a good presence right from the start. A bouquet of woody (twigs), fruity (grape, pear) and citrus (bergamot) notes combined with sweet vanilla and vege-tal aromas.

LiquorColour: a clear, gleaming liquor with a lovely coppery colour.Texture: supple in the mouth, if the infusion is kept at 85°C. Develops more astringency if the temperature is higher.Flavours: a touch of sweetness and a delicate acidity that brings out the fruity note.Aromas: woody to start (wax-polished wood but also dry wood, twigs), a lovely fruity bouquet (with hints of fresh fruit like apple and grape, as well as cooked fruit such as rhubarb and plum), sweet vanilla notes and hints of cocoa and spices, along with vegetal and floral accents.Aromatic profile and length in the mouth: a harmonious succession of notes. A good length, moving from a fresh vegetal impression to finish on woody, cocoa and tobacco notes.

Our verdict: From the Puttabong garden, famous for its delicious black teas, this autumn batch is typical of Darjeeling. Rich in aromas, it offers a harmonious suc-cession of warm fruity, woody, vanilla and cocoa notes, nicely sustained by a very supple liquor. A fresh finish in the mouth, rounded off by wonderful warm notes.

ref.0173.

Darjeeling Third Flush

JukroDry leavesAspect: evenly rolled leaves according to the traditional black tea method.Colour: dark brown, a few golden hints.Scents: very intense scents: chocolate in attack, vanilla, toasted nuance, buttery milk, fruity (cooked fruit, jam).InfusionColour: brown.Scents: highly chocolate attack, milky (hot milk), vanilla note (vanilla sugar, vanilla pod), toasted (roasted cocoa beans), cooked fruit (jam), rose geranium nuance in the back.

LiquorColour: clear and gleaming coppery liquor.Texture: very supple, round and full in the mouth, creating an oily feel which increases the milky sensation.Flavours: sweet hint.Aromas: sweet vanilla attack (vanilla sugar, vanilla pod), very milky chocolate note with floral nuances, honey, wax wood and fruity notes (jam).Aromatic profile and length in the mouth: a delicious profile with a lovely length, and very chocolaty, vanilla and woody notes that linger in the mouth.

Our verdict: This tea is really quite unique. Plucked and processed entirely by hand at the Jukro farm, this is one of the best black teas produced in the country. The cocoa, vanilla bouquet evokes the rich note of the China Qimen Mao Feng teas, but its strength, richness and intensity takes us more in the direction of the best dark Wu Longs from Taiwan. An outstanding gastronomic experience!

ref.280.

Thé noir de CoréePu er chinois

Quatre-quarts (pound cake) with matcha green tea and lemon, white chocolate ice cream

|1| Ingredients

150g sugar150g creamed butter150g flour4 eggs1 lemon3 tbsp matcha green tea0.5 litres white chocolate ice cream

|2| For the quatre-quarts

In a large bowl, mix together the sugar, flour, matcha green tea, and the juice and zest of the lemon.Add the eggs and creamed butter and mix well.Pour the mixture into a buttered, floured cake tin.Bake at 180°C for 35-40 minutes.Leave to cool at room temperature.Turn out.

|3| Presentation

Cut the cake into slices.Place two slices on each plate and add a scoop of ice cream.Best served while still slightly warm!

|4| To accompany the dish

Serve with a vintage Wu Long. The repeated roastings give it pronounced toasted, fruity, caramel notes. These flavours combine perfectly with the dessert, creating a lovely contrast.

Water temperature: 95°CInfusion time: 6-7 minutes

Bao Zhong – 1999 vintage réf.2651.Cooking matcha réf.C232.

Recipe

Recipe devised by Sylvain Sendra, chef at Itinéraires restaurant,5 rue de Pontoise, Paris 5, for the Tea School.

Serves 4Preparation time: 35 minutesVery easy

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The Théophile card

Mail Order Department3 rue de Nice - 75011 Paris - Tel: +33 (0) 1 43 56 90 90 - Fax: +33 (0)1 43 56 92 00

www.palaisdesthes.com

Théophile

The Théophile card gives you access to a number of benefits, available on our website, mail-order purchases and in Le Palais des Thés stores:

Important: Each time you visit the shop, remember to present your Théophile Card so that your purchases can be recorded. For all your orders by post or on the Internet, don’t forget to add your code to the order form in the space provided.

- enjoy a 10% discount on all purchases for one year (except books: maximum legal discount of 5% applies),

- take advantage of preferential rates for a number of special offers and receive exclusive gifts,

- receive our Bruits de Palais newsletter, giving you a sneak preview into new teas and keeping you up-to-date with the latest tea-related news…

- benefit from a special rate and priority access to conferences organised by L’Ecole du Thé.

By spending €80 on loose tea in the year, you automatically renew the benefits of your card for the following year.

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François-Xavier Delmas’ blog:www.discoveringtea.com

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My tea for the morning – 48 cotton tea bags ref.DMAT.Thé des Moines, Grand Yunnan Impérial, Sencha Ariake, Big Ben, Thé des Lords, Goût Russe 7 agrumes

My tea for the office – 48 cotton tea bags ref.DBUR.Darjeeling Margaret’s Hope, Blue of London, Thé du Hammam, Fleur de Geisha, Thé des Sources, Thé des Alizés

My tea for the evening – 48 cotton tea bags ref.DSOIR.Rooibos verbena, Rooibos chamomile, Rooibos des Vahinés, Rooibos du Hammam, Rooibos des Lords, Rooibos des Amants

Tea selections for every time of day