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Bogu Costumization GuidePosted on 28th Feb 2013 @ 5:21 PM

- Futon- Braids Colors- Accent Threads- Kozakura- Name Personalization- Doh-dai- Kamon- Doh Width- Mune Quality- Mune Design- Mune Pattern- 3-stripe Mune- Men-gane- Menbuchi Color- Ago Pattern- Naname-zashi- Eyeglasses Option- Uchiwa Material- Kote Palms Material- Kote Extra Padding

- Futon

Trim and Edging Materials Employed in Kendo Armor:

Essentially, there are three popular materials used for trim and edging in kendo bogu, the armor. There areleather, cloth, and Clarino, a synthetic fabric.

Leather: The best version of leather trim and edging is that which has been dyed in “aizome” or realJapanese indigo dye. Japanese indigo was used as a medicine for bruises and scraps in pre-modernJapan, and so it is no surprise we find it used in kendo clothing and armor. It is the color that is mostassociated with kendo equipment as a result. Japanese indigo as possesses a natural characteristic ofretarding fungal growth, suppressing the natural tendency for kendo armor to get moldy. Aizome dyedarmor ages nicely, taking on a lighter hue, giving high quality bogu the distinctive patina of use thatexperience kenshi have come to recognize. Other versions of leather trim and edging are dyed withman-made synthetic dyes.

Cloth (Orizashi): The cloth used for trim and edging of kendo armor is similar to the heavy, embroideredcloth employed in the use of practice jackets, the keiko-gi. Cloth breaths well, allowing kendo armor to dryout quickly. Not as durable as leather, cloth trim and edging is normally selected for economy, and for itsfast drying characteristics, especially for those living in hot and humid climates.

Clarino: This man-made synthetic fabric has both the appearance and feel of natural leather. It is commonlyreferred to as “man-made leather” in kendo-armor circles. In cases where the kendo equipment is constantlysweat-soaked due to consecutive, heavy practices, Clarino will actually out-perform leather for durability.Clarino also has a natural moisture-wicking property and dries rapidly, making it an ideal material for boguused in hot and humid environments. As Clarino is dyed with synthetic dyes, it does not change colorsignificantly with use, and as a consequence, does not develop the same ‘patina of use’ as aizome-dyedleather trim and edging.

Stitching: Ten-zashi, Naga-zashi, Hishi-zashi, Choku-zashi, Gunome-zashi, Gaku-zashi & Naname-zashi.

The first two, ten- and naga-zashi refer to the way the hand-stitches are made. The other four refers to thestitches layout.

In ten-zashi (ten meaning "a point") the stitches are made with only a point exposed on front and backsides. In order to do this, the stitch must pass through diagonally. It requires expertise and craftsmanship,

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especially on thicker futon where the layers of padding tend to slide over one another with the pressure anddrag of the needle pressing through the different layers one after another.

In naga-zashi, the thread is passed straight through the futon, in order to make the next stitch, the threadruns exposed, like a 'dash' on the back-side, until the next stitch where it is passed straight through.

Choku-zashi, refers to a uniform parallel layout of stitches. It is the most basic layout for bogu.

Hishi-zashi, refers to a diamond-shaped layout of stitches. It is particularly praised for its softness andcushion.

Gunome-zashi & Gaku-zashi refer to adding an extra line of stitch to some portions of the futon in order tomake it stiffer and better shape-keeping. You have surely seen examples of this, where the men-tare, theflaps of the men are sewn with a stitch pattern twice as close as the main futon. Also, the edges of the flapsof the tare ("gaku-zashi" or "frame" as in picture frame) where the main 1.5 or 2.0 bu futon is "framed" by ansurrounding rectangle of 0.75 or 1.0 bu stitching. It is the usual practice with more sophisticatedhand-stitched 1.5 or 2.0 BU futon.

Naname-zashi, refers to a machine-stitched men-futon: the part covering the shoulders is then stitched in adiagonal way, whereas the part covering the head is stitched in the standard straight fashion.

Mine-men Standard Feature ! : Fukuro-zashi

The Mine fukuro-zashi futon (left); and a stock futon cut to size, finished with trim to cover edge(right).

"Fukuro-zashi" translating to 'sewn like a bag' means that the size of the men-buton, theprotective cushion, is decided from the beginning of the construction process. The length andwidth are carefully decided, the materials cut, and the ends folded inward and sewn closed like theend of a bag, for a finished edge with no heri-kawa, or edge-trim.

This is a more difficult and sophisticated approach to the construction of men-buton, usuallyfound only in more expensive tezashi, or hand-stitched armor.

A more common design, found in simpler products, employs trimming an existing stock sizedown to the desired length and width, and finishing the raw cut edges with an edge-beading.Along with this, some decorative trim is often added to give the appearance of a more elaboratedesign.

All of our Mine men-buton are finished in the fukuro-zashi fashion. It requires individual sizingfor every men we make. We hope you will agree, these small features, in addition to superior fit,comfort, and protection, add up to make the decisive differnece. This is the custom advantage.

Moisture Barriers:

The forehead and chin pads inside the men have moisture barriers sewn in, extending toattachment points in the underlying construction of the men. This prevents sweat from permeatingto the lacquered leather attachments of the ago (throat protector), and the lacquered leather ringbinding the men-gane (face-grill) significantly adding to longevity. This also serves to diminishthe amount, or altogether stop, the appearance of salt-stains arising in these areas after heavypractice.

- Braids

Every bogu features decorative braids, on Tare, Men, Kote and Doh-mune



Kazari Ito are available in :

blacktea browngun metal bluedusky purple

Here is in example of Kazari Ito colors for the doh-mune (black, tea brown, gun metal blue, dusky purple):

- Accent Threads

The accent theads on every braid of the bogu can be chosen among the 20 colors shown in the ThreadColors section.

In the options list, "accent thread color" refers to the green arrows.

"Kazari color" refers to the red arrows.



- Kozakura

Kozakura are available for Men & Tare, and come in 7 (standard kozakura) + 1 (indigo trim) different colors.

- Colors / Personalization

About Color Options

Colors of threads in designs and name embroidery, and do-dai colors may vary due to minute variationsduring manufacturing.

Also, monitor settings vary widely, rendering the colors on your computer screen differently than originallyintended.

Chiba Budougu makes every effort within the scope of our control to maintain continuity in the quality of ourproducts; however, we cannot guarantee minute changes due to the factors described.

We appreciate you understanding.

About Thread Colors

From your name sewn into your hakama to the colors included in a Wave & Bird pattern stitch, ChibaBogu.com can meet your customization requests right down to the thread color. What parts are available forcustomization? Here is a list:

Name StitchingMune/Ago Embroidery PatternsAccent ThreadsBraids

Have a specific color in mind? Talk to our staff and we may be able to find it for you.

NOTE: When personalizing your equipment with Japanese kana, the phonetic characters, or kanji, Chineseiconic characters, we require either e-mail attached word processor files, or facsimile message sent to ourshop: +81-470-73-4062.



- Doh-daiAbout the different models of doh-dai, the lower hard portion of the doh:

We source our Bamboo doh-dai from Japan's most famous doh-dai makers depending on size,shape, or any other special factors. These do are favored by high-level kenshi throughout Japanfor their combination of beauty and long lasting quality.

Fiber doh-dai are nearly impervious to moisture changes, but shape may change withtemperature. They are more flexible than bamboo doh-dai and all things combined make themhandy for traveling. However, with this said, you will still notice that nearly all high-level kenshitravel with bamboo doh-dai regularly, preferred for their beauty, traditional aspects, and durability.

- KamonKamon the Family Seal Applied to Bogu

The kamon, or traditional seal for households, go back to the feudal period of Japan, when family names,social status, and association to recognized domains were a part of the social landscape.

Families had their own seal, which served as the symbol of the house. In some cases of the powerful orwealthy, the use of this emblem could extend on to favored persons or families who served under them.



Warrior houses, often emblazened their armor, the trappings of their horses and battle equipment toindentify themselves in the field.

This custom lives on in the modern times as kendo men and women still adorn their kendo armor with theirchosen kamon, applied to the do-dai, the hard lower portion of the body armor, or embroidered into themune or ago, the chest and throat protectors, respectively.

With family lines less distinct, in these days, some will select the kamon of a famous shrine or old feudalregion. People living in foreign lands may adopt the kamon of their teacher, or use the emblem of their clubor federation. In any case, the purpose and effect is still the same, this symbol serves to indentfy theindividual, and association to the group.

At Chibabudogu, we regularly incorporate kamon into the the design features of our custom bogu orders.These include:

* Hand painting (Hira-maki) the design to an individual doh-dai.

* hand-painting a relief Kamon (Taka-maki) on the doh-dai, .

* Emboridery of the design into the mune of the doh, the chest portion of the body armor.

* Embroidery of the design into the ago, the throat protector extending down from the helmet.



* Other custom applications are also possible, such as the inner side of the doh, and so forth. Thread colorsfor Kamon embroidery can be selected from the Information section labeled "Thread Colors."

Hand painted Japanese Traditional Kamon have a fixed price. However, for personnal designs, size,complexity, and type of application will determine the cost. As these factors are specific to each customorder, we ask you to contact our Customer Service Department for further details.

A clear sample of the design you wish to incorporate into your custom bogu, the size, location, and color orthread color, should be considered and prepared for discussion. Based on the information you provide us,we can offer a formal price quote.

Please note, that the extra charges will be handled separately from online-store orders.

- Doh Width

Selecting the Correct Size Doh

Differences in body types may affect doh size selection. Persons with wide bodies at waist or mid-torso mayrequire a larger size doh, whereas persons who's raw waist measurement is large due to a protruding belly,may actually require the narrower do of a smaller size.

The surest way to confirm the do size required is to measure a known doh with good fit. Be sure to wearkeiko-gi, hakama, and tare as usual to provide for the exact circumstances in which the do will be worn. Ifyou do not already have your own doh, you may wish to call on your teacher and fellow club members for amomentary trial of their doh to make your check and measurement.

Space sufficient to insert one hand closed into a fist, between trunk and the inside of the doh, will verifyproper fit.

In general, the following sizing chart will provide average size requirements; however, take care to considerthe factors listed above that might influence correct sizing:

Waist sizes of 85 centimeters and less: Small

Waist sizes from 85 to 90 centimeters: Standard

Waist sizes from 90 to 105 centimeters: Large

Waist sizes 105 centimeters and over: Very Large*

*Very large sizes: for very large kenshi, we can provide custom-sized doh-dai. Please note, that the extracharges will be handled separately from online-store orders.

- Mune Quality

Mune are made using three different cuts:

-The Standard mune are made with kata-oshi kurozan (lacquered leather) have trimmed edges that arefolded under for a refined finish.

-Deluxe mune are made with kte-momi kurozan (hand-rubbed lacquered leather), the highest qualityhand-finished leather with folded edges.

-The Economy model, in synthetic leather, leaves the cut edges of the leather trim exposed.

The Senko Mune is the most prestigious Mune in Japan. Hand-made, with the best materials available. Ifyou wish to order a Senko Mune, please contact us.

- Mune Design



Chiba Bogu.com offers a wide variety of designs to choose from. If you would like to consult our customerservice representatives, we can work with you you create a truly unique design, specific to your uniqueneeds. Below are "standard" designs that we offer at a fixed price. Please allow for extra time and extracosts for orders made to specific instructions.

Three Pines Pine Design "S"

Tokyo "S" Nimbus Cloud

Clouds (Basic) "S" Design

Low Pines Demon Clouds

Full Stitch PatternTiered Stitch(requires 2 embroidery patterns)

Tiered Broad Stitch(requires 2 embroidery patterns)

Broad Stitch

- Mune Pattern

Embroidery patterns adorn the mune and Men ago.

Chiba Bogu provides a wide selection of color combinations and patterns. Each of the patterns below canbe made with specific colors at the customers request. For reference please see the Decorative Thread



Information Page

Bordered Cross MarkChoose your colors for the "Bordered Cross Mark" pattern:

Diamond Shape Flower

Choose your colors for the "Diamond Shape Flower" pattern:

Pinpoint Stitches

Pinpoint stitch pattern is possible in both vertical-horizontal, and diagonal arrangements. A version with"square accents" is also available.

Choose your colors for the "Pinpoint Stitch" patterns:

Iris

Choose your color for the "Iris" pattern:

Wave & Bird

Choose your colors for the "Wave & Bird" pattern:



Tortoise Shell

Choose your colors for the "Tortoise shell" pattern:

Flax Leaves

Choose your colors for the "Flax Leaves" pattern:

Pinpoint Stitches with Kamon

Choose your color for the "Pinpoint Stitch" pattern and the seal:

Size and complexity will determine the extra cost. As these factors are specific to each custom order, we askyou to contact our Customer Service Department for further details.

A clear sample of the design you wish to incorporate into your custom bogu, the size, location, and threadcolor, should be considered and prepared for discussion. Based on the information you provide us, we canoffer a formal price quote.

Please note that this service is listed as an option item in the online-store database, but without the extracosts. Therefore, extra charges will be handled separately.

- 3-Stripe Mune

Mune 3-Stripe Option, or "sanbon-ashi"



When building a new doh, taller persons, persons who are long-torsoed, or persons who are just bigoverall, may wish to have another line added to the side projections of the mune, the chest portion of thedoh.

These are the lines on the top edge of the doh, in the area just under the arms. The standard is two lines;however an additional line, totaling three lines on each side will create higher side-wall for the doh, providefor slightly more protection coverage, and better proportions overall.

This treatment requires an additional 15 days during crafting, and is available at only an additional JPY1,500. You can make this selection by simply checking the box in the doh ordering page marked "ThreeStripes."

Another option to provide you with truly custom service.

- Men-Gane

Men-gane: The metal-grill protecting the face

Long ago, the first "mengane" were in bamboo, but then evolved to iron or stainless. Npwadays, there areessentially four types of men-gane, the metal-grill that protects the face: Duraluminum; Titanium;Duralumin/Titanium mix; and a special type designed by the Hasegawa company featuring a fiber-glassshield.

As well as the differences in materials and construction, men-gane are also made in various sizes. Childrenmen-gane are available with 12 or 13 horizontal bars; standard adult men-gane employ 14 horizontal bars;another special long & wide 14 bar variation is also available for larger kenshi; and for those with longmeasurement (top-back of head to point of chin) of 73 centimeters or longer, a special 15 bar men-gane isavailable.

At first glance we can see that there are only a limited number of men-gane sizes to fit the broad range ofpeople. The difference in fit, and positioning of the “monomi” the wide slot which one looks through, aredetermined at the time of construction, and are dependant on the skill and expertise of the craftsperson whoconstructs the men. For this reason experienced kenshi take advantage of having their men custom-made.

At Chibabudogu we basically propose 4 options for the men-gane:

IBB Duraluminum: Made of an Aluminum-alloy, this it the lightest and least expensive of theIBB options. It is recommended for children, lighter kenshi, for those who engage onlyoccasional practice and for naginata practitioners. The lighter weight makes it comfortable towear; however, a heavy schedule of practice exposing the men to lots of collisions, and longexposure to sweat may eventually weaken the attachment points of the horizontal bars. Insuch cases, titanium men-gane are recommended.

IBB SD: This men-gane is slightly stronger than the IBB Duralumin and provides a better shock absorption.

IBB Titanium: An all titanium construction in which the base-ring, center vertical spine, and horizontal barsare all thicker than the standard All-Titanium men-gane. The greater thicknesses of the materials, and inparticular, the greater cross-sectional area at the points where the parts are welded together, make this thestrongest men-gane available. 100 gms heavier than a standard titanium model, we highly recommend thismen for average and large adults, and any person performing at the national team level.

IBB Pro: Same all titanium construction as the IBB Titanium, but with a more refined design.

- Menbuchi Color

The Menbuchi, the leather ring that holds the mengane and the futon together comes in two variations:

Traditionnal, red & blackAll black



- Ago Pattern

Chibabudogu offers a wide variety of ago designs to choose from. If you would like to consult our customerservice representatives, we can work with you to create a truly unique design, specific to your unique needs.Below are "standard" designs that we offer at a fixed price. You may specify for custom thread colors in thecomments box of the option section.

For more details on the patterns, please refer to this page

Tortoise Shell Wave & Bird Flax Leaves Pinpoint Stitch

Pinpoint Stitch (squareaccents)

Cross MarkCross Mark withPinpoint Stitch

Diamond Flower

Bordered Cross Mark Iris

Family Sealwith Pinpoint Stitch(Contact CustomerService)

- Naname-zashi (Diagonal Stitching)

Naname-zashi, or diagonal stitching, is a stitching technique for machine-stitched men-tare (the flaps).Diagonal stitching on the men-tare runs parallel to the cylindrical curl that men-flaps make at their ends,above the shoulders. It is a direct feature taken from traditional te-zashi or hand-made bogu. The men-tare‘roll-up-and-down' with the movements of the shoulders naturally according to their shape, and theappearance is very nice.

Naname-zashi is a feature used by most of the Naginata practitioners: the shape of the men-tare allowsthem to assume Hasso-no-kamae or do furikaeshi techniques more easily.

- Eyeglasses Option

Special Custom Treatment for Wearing Eye Glasses in Men

For those of you who wish to wear your daily-use glasses inside your men there is a special treatment wecan perform at the time we are building your men for you:



In this treatment, the uchiwa, the cloth ring on the inside of the men that contacts your face, is sewn verytightly with many lines of stitch around the level that the stems of the glasses, the parts that reach back toyour ears, pass by. This compresses the uchiwa and creates an open channel for the stems.

This additional clearance prevents pressure against the stems and your face, making wearing the menmuch more comfortable, and will prevent the stems of appropriately sized glasses from being bent orbroken.

At this time, we offer this at no-charge as a service to truly customize your men according to your needs.

Note: All glass frames differ. This eyeglass treatment to the uchiwa cannot accomodate every possible styleof eyeglass frame; however, narrow glasses that do not have protruding corners can be worn in most cases.Many kenshi prepare a special set of glasses for wear within the men.

Note 2: The eyeglasses option is only available on Mine men.

- Uchiwa Material

The uchiwa, the inner-ring that fits the face inside the men, can be chosen from cotton or velvet.

- Kote Palms Material

Micro-Punch™ Kote Palms

Micro-Punch™ palms are made of Clarino synthetic material. This “man-made-leather” actually outperforms real leather when constantly soaking wet, and has a natural moisture wicking propertythat results in them drying out in much less time than leather.

In the Micro-Punch™ process, the material is punched with 1 mm holes 5 mmapart. This ventilates the palms, making the kote cooler and more comfortable towear, and faster drying when not in use. We infer that the combination of lesssweat and faster drying contributes to longer life of the kote.

Due to the good performance and long life of the palm, we are consideringmaking the Micro-Punch Clarino palms our standard palm. When I first saw them,I thought the holes would make them weaker, with the hole stretching out, andthe material getting thinner and thinner, but since we have introduced this good

product, we are not seeing many come back for replacement as with our normal deer-skin orwhite-leather palms.

We recommend this as a choice in new Mine line kote order, and offer it as a replacement materialfor kote re-palming orders.

If it is any testimonial, half of the staff of Chibabudogu are changing their kote to Micro-Punchwhenever re-palming becomes necessary; and the other half sticks with Japanese deer leather, forthe traditional aspect and the beauty of the material :-).

- Kote Extra Padding

Extra padding in the kote-futon, for more protection.

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