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Boat

Licence

Student

Handbook

© abltca pty ltd 2013

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Licencing For Recreational Boats In Queensland, licences are currently required when operating a vessel powered by a motor of greater than 6hp (4.5 KW). Applicant must be 16 years or older. Valid licences include:

Recreational Marine Drivers Recreational Ship Masters Licence Speed Boat Licence Current commercial marine licence – example Coxswain Current Small Vessel Operators Certificate (to operate a fishing ship less than 10m in length

issued by Qld Fishing Industry Training Council) Current Interstate Boating Licence (Excluding junior licences) PWC Licence

Licences are issued for a lifetime in Queensland. A paper licence is not issued as details are attached to a person’s details in the driver’s licence database. Confirmation reports are can be obtained for a fee and should be carried when boating interstate. An unlicensed person may operate a recreational vessel provided a suitable licensed driver is on board and able to take immediate control. However, unlicensed persons may NOT operate a vessel, which is towing a person such as a water skier. You will have 6 months from the day you attended our course to present your Statement of Competency to a Qld Transport Customer Service Centre and pay the prescribed fee.

THE STATEMENT OF COMPETENCY IS NOT A LICENCE. Licence Suspension: A Marine Licence may be cancelled or suspended if the holder of a marine licence accrues three or more safety infringements or a drink driving offence.

Commonsense-Care-Courtesy Commonsense All activities on your vessel become your responsibility so drive sensibly and you’ll arrive safely Care Great care should be taken when manoeuvring your vessel near other water way users, either near the shore or out in the ocean. Care about the environment as well as your fellow boaties. Courtesy Boat ramp etiquette should be maintained when launching your vessel. Patience is the key! Follow these three important steps when you’re boating and you’ll have a safe journey each

and every time you’re out on the water.

The General Safety Obligation The owner and master of every vessel have an obligation to ensure that the vessel has the highest level of safety; this can be achieved by making sure the vessel is:

SAFE PROPERLY EQUIPPED AND CREWED OPERATED IN A SAFE MANNER

Failure to meet this obligation could lead to prosecution


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Hull Types Displacement Hulls are boats that push through the water as they have no hydrodynamic lift, or the boat does not rise out of the water as speed increases. They have good directional stability and good stability in loading. Types of this craft are yachts, tugs, sailboats catamarans and trawlers. When a planing hull is either not moving or going very slowly, it is, in effect, a displacement hull. As power and speed increase, a planing hull lifts itself up on top of its own bow wave and this causes the boat to displace much less water. As a result, there is much less wetted surface on the hull bottom, meaning less friction as well. The speed of the boat will now increase at a great rate, the more horsepower added the faster the boat will go. Types of this craft are your powerboats, family runabouts, and ski boats. Role Of The Skipper AUTHORITY It is your authority that maintains good order on the vessel. NOTE: The owner of a recreational boat must verify that a person who is to be the master of a vessel holds an appropriate licence to operate the vessel. CREW & GUESTS You are responsible for the Conduct, Care and Comfort of your guests. Be sure to let your guests know what you expect from them, especially when it comes to them lending your assistance. Be explicit; explain in detail what help you will need, for example when you are coming along to a mooring explain well before hand as to how you may want them to secure your vessel to that mooring. BE AWARE OF POTENTIAL DANGERS Many potential dangers are featured on the charts, study your charts and get to know areas that you may have to avoid. Weather is a potential danger to consider, other boaties are a potential danger, always keep a proper lookout at all times even you if have a GPS system running. WEATHER A good boatie will always get a reliable updated weather forecast before they venture out on the water. ALCOHOL Keep alcohol consumption within the legal limits, and keep an eye on your crew and guests limits, always remember the sun and the motion of the vessel will heighten the effect of alcohol on the body. NOISE Don’t allow noise from your boat to spoil the pleasure of other people on the land or on the water. SEA-SICKNESS Taking care of your guests and crew and their medical needs is part of your general safety obligation. KNOW YOUR BOAT You should be aware of all your boat’s handling characteristics and limitations. Know how much fuel your boat uses and ensure you carry an adequate reserve. Within the limits of your technical abilities, you should do as much of your own maintenance as possible. You should be able to:

Change the fuel filter and primer bowl Clean and change spark plugs Check for spark Check and replace fuse’s Change the propeller Clean battery terminals

ENSURE REVELANT CHARTS ARE ON BOARD Excellent charts are available from most marine stores and students are particularly directed to Maritime Safety Queensland’s Beacon to Beacon Directory. CHECK SEAWORTHINESS Regularly perform maintenance checks on your boat and trailer. Many small problems can be fixed quite cheaply if the repair is undertaken as soon as the problem becomes evident. Pay particular attention to the electrical system to ensure corrosion is not accumulating on terminals and connections. LET SOMEONE KNOW BEFORE YOU GO Let someone such as a friend, family or neighbours know where you are going and when you’ll return. You can also give the same information to the Volunteer Marine Rescue stations via your marine radio. CARRY DRY WARM CLOTHING Put an old tracksuit in a plastic bag and tie a knot in the neck. This will ensure the bag will float and the clothing is mildew free when required. SLIP – SLOP – SLAP – AND SLIDE Take pre-emptive action to avoid sunburn and ensure all on board, especially children, are wearing 100% UV reduction sunglasses. CARRY ADEQUATE FOOD AND WATER Plenty of boaties have had to spend a night on the beach due to mechanical failure – a dry biscuit and a drink of water would be very welcome!


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Pre - Trip Plan Each time you go boating have a Trip Plan in place even if it’s only a small outing. Know your destination and how to get there and back. Your plan should include:

Where you intend going Expected time of return The names and telephone numbers of people on board A list of safety equipment carried Where you intend to launch A description of your boat Your boat, car and trailer registration numbers What to do if you do not return at the time planned (call someone who knew where you were going or if you

are in difficulty, call a rescue group or water police and have these numbers lodged in your mobile.) Amount of fuel to be carried (use the Time – Speed – Distance Triangle on page 69) Always allow extra

fuel for the unexpected ( rougher sea conditions on your return journey) 1/3 fuel to reach destination - 1/3 fuel to return home - 1/3 fuel in reserve for the unexpected.

Trip Time = Distance e.g. 20 Nautical Miles Speed 20 knots per/hour = 1 hour If my vessel has a cruising speed of 20 knots and I plan a 20 nautical mile journey and the vessel uses a maximum of 15 litres per hour, for the return trip I would need to carry a minimum of 45 litres of fuel.

Boat Pre-Departure Checklist When you are preparing to go boating it is important to ensure your craft is in good order. The major causes of breakdown at sea are petrol failure, fuel shortage or contamination, mechanical failure and battery failure. You should make a habit of having a pre-departure checklist on your own boat and check each time before you leave home. Your CHECKLIST should include:

On boarding the boat and before operating any switches or engines check for Petrol and LPG odours. If such odours exist, fix the fault before you go out and before you take any other passengers on board.

Inspect the bilges. If there is more bilge water than usual, find and rectify the fault. When pumping bilges, be aware of the environment. Polluting the waterways is an offence. If there is oil or fuel in the bilge water, use absorbent matting to clean up the spills.

Check the engine to see that it is working properly, preferably the day before departure. Check engine oil and coolant levels – top up if required. Check that the fire extinguisher is in good working condition. Ensure there is sufficient fresh water and food for the length of the voyage, with some extra in case of an

emergency. Check the battery condition and see if there is enough charge, keep terminals free of corrosion and terminals

are tight Make sure the lights on the craft are in good working order as you never know when your vessel may break

down and you could be stuck out at sea at night. Test any electrics operating from the battery such as radios, gauges and the power tilt etc. Check that the self-draining holes are all clear. Have ropes and lines in good condition and stored ready for use. Check to make sure steering cables and connections are in good condition and work perfectly. Check to make sure all necessary safety equipment is on board and in good condition, and enough life-jackets

to fit each person you are taking out on the boat. Check propeller, rudder or drive train is undamaged. Check that you have tools, extra fuses and bulbs of the appropriate size on board the vessel. Check the weather conditions and the expected weather conditions before you leave home. Most important “MAKE SURE THE BUNGS ARE IN!”


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Trailers - Vehicle Towing Tips

When following another vehicle, allow extra distance between your vehicle and the vehicle ahead, as it is unlikely your vehicle will brake as effectively as it does without the trailer.

Crosswinds will bear heavily against your boat and could upset the balance and handling of your vehicle so reduce speed during times of high winds.

Make sure any gear aboard the boat cannot blow out, as the slipstream can create quite a suctioning effect, and could cause a hazard to other motorists.

Trailer Maintenance For the longevity of your trailer it is of the utmost importance to maintain the trailer in good working order by:

Firstly ensure your vehicle is suitable (power and weight) for towing your boat. The gross mass of the boat, trailer, motor and all equipment must not exceed the kerb weight of the vehicle or the manufacturer’s recommended towing weight, whichever is the lesser.

Ensure all lights on tow vehicle are operating correctly. Check compatibility of plugs, sockets, coupling and ball joint.

Ensure safety chain is properly secured, mudguards fitted and trailer is free of excessive rust. Do not overload your boat with gear whilst trailering. Trailer brakes are very prone to corrosion, check them regularly. Remember to lock over-ride brake when

reversing up slopes and unlock them when towing. Replace winch cable at the first sign of fraying. Affix the winch handle permanently in place so it can’t be lost

when trailering. Keep your trailer tyres correctly inflated and in as good a condition as those fitted to the tow vehicle. Make

sure you have a correctly inflated spare tyre for your trailer. Wheel bearings should be repacked regularly with waterproof grease. We recommend the use of a foaming

chain lubricant or silicone spray mixed with the grease. On long trips, carry spare bearings, seals and grease or better still, a complete hub and bearing assembly. If

you were forced to leave your boat by the side of the road while you try to buy these spares, it may well be gone by the time you return.

Avoid trailer theft by locking the trailer to the vehicle (many different types are now available at most boat chandlery stores). Propeller locks are also available or simply remove it from the boat if you store your boat in an area that’s accessible to the public.

Launching – Courtesy & Safety As a courtesy to other boat ramp users, prepare your boat for launch before backing down the ramp. Check the boat ramp for muddy slippery conditions and look for any drop-offs that may occur at the end of the ramp.

Ensure the bungs are in place. Check your fuel and oil if necessary. Clear the deck of gear – fishing rods in rod holders etc. Erect your radio aerial and put all appropriate safety gear on board. Remove tie-down straps and trailer lights and disconnect the trailer wiring.

Firstly backing down a boat ramp can cause frustration on the part of the owner of the boat and other boaties waiting to get their boat into the water, so to alleviate this problem if you have not had a lot of experience!

Practice reversing either in a shopping centre between the lines, after hours of course, or even in your own drive way at home. “Practise makes Perfect”

Always try to maintain from turning the steering wheel of your vehicle from side to side, try to keep it positioned in the middle and only slight movements to the left and right.

Either use your side mirrors or turn your head to see where you are going, never try to use both. Always try to keep your vehicle straight, if you veer off on an angle just drive straight up once again and then

start to reverse again. If you still have problems think about fitting a tow ball to the front of your vehicle.

Before winding the boat off the trailer, tie a rope (about two metres longer than the boat) to the bow of the boat and the trailer. If the winch cable should break, you will not lose control of the boat. There is no need to sink your trailer out of sight just back the trailer in far enough to float the stern while trying to keep the tow vehicle’s wheels out of the water. If possible, move the boat to one side of the ramp while you remove your vehicle. Don’t block access to the ramp any longer than necessary.


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Retrieving – Courtesy & Safety When lining the boat up with the trailer, be prepared to allow for wind and tide and have lines in place for crew to manoeuvre the boat if strong winds persist. Don’t stand in line with the cable when winching the boat on to the trailer. If the cable broke, you could be severely injured. Once the boat has been winched on to the trailer ensure the safety chain is in place before you drive the trailer off the ramp. As a courtesy to other ramp users, leave the stowing of gear, folding of canopies, lowering aerials etc. until you have left the ramp and before going onto the road.

Drain water from the bilge by either the bilge pump or the bungs, remembering to put the bungs back in place. Ensure the tie down straps and engine supports are in place before taking the rig onto the road.

Routine Checks For Mechanical & Electrical Components As part of the General Safety Obligation it is the owner/operator’s responsibility to ensure the boat is in a seaworthy condition and suitable for the intended trip. Regular preventative maintenance and servicing by a qualified mechanic may avoid a breakdown at sea although you should be able to resolve minor problems. Trouble Shooting When the Engine Won’t Start: If the starter will not operate, before If the starter operates, but the calling for help check: engine will not start: *Battery capacity weak or low *Fuel tank empty *Battery connections loose or corroded *Fuel contaminated or stale *Fuse for the electrics is blown *Fuel filter clogged *Starter components faulty *Starting procedure incorrect (Read Manual) *Engine stop switch lanyard not attached *Fuel pump malfunctions *Shift Lever in gear *Spark plugs fouled or incorrect type

*Spark plug cap fitted incorrectly *Poor connections or damaged ignition wire *Ignition parts faulty *Engine stop switch lanyard not attached *Shift lever in gear *Bad settings or flooded carburettor

Electrical Circuits: Salt is a conductor of electricity and it absorbs moisture so it can destroy and cause leakage and short-circuiting in electrical equipment. All electrical circuits on the vessel should be protected against splash, properly fused and wired with marine wire. A common cause for failure of this equipment is corrosion caused by the salt water. Spray terminals and electrical connectors with a corrosion-retarding agent such WD40. Keep electrical fittings dry. Check the lights are working even if expected to be out only during daylight hours. Testing Mechanical Equipment: When testing any equipment on your vessel, ensure noise regulations are not breached, bystanders are not endangered and fire hazards are minimised. The engine should not be run at a speed that exceeds the manufacturer’s recommendations as outlined in the Owner’s Manual. Mechanical Equipment Installation: Before any additional mechanical equipment is put into use always follow the manufacturer’s specifications and recommendations. It may be in your best interest to call on a qualified installer, rather than trying to install a piece of very expensive equipment that may get damaged because of your inexperience.


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Batteries: Marine batteries differ from automotive type batteries. They are constructed with additional plates to suit the variations in the rated performance levels. They are made vibration resistant by lock-bonding with fibreglass separators. The batteries should be secured in brackets. Their terminals, cables, casing and the sealing compound should be kept clean, free from dirt, moisture and grease. Dirt or moisture on top of the battery can form a conducting path, which takes energy from the battery; and if allowed to become bad enough, it may eventually damage the battery. The terminals should be coated with Vaseline to safeguard against corrosion. Corrosion and crystalline matter on terminals can be removed by dipping them in a solution of baking soda and hot water. Then rinse them clean, dry, and smear with petroleum jelly. Batteries give off explosive hydrogen gas, which is lighter than air. The gas hangs above the electrolyte at all times. This is due to a continuous weak chemical reaction in the battery, even when disconnected. The most dangerous time is just after charging. To prevent a spark igniting it, caps should be on cells when connecting or disconnecting a battery. The battery charger or ignition should be turned off before disconnecting a battery. When charging batteries, they should be protected against spark, naked flames and heat.

Trimming The Boat By changing an outboard motor’s drive angle, a vessel’s bow can be made to rise or drop. The bow is raised by setting the angle back and lowered by setting the angle in. The performance and stability of a vessel depends a great deal on correctly trimming the outboard. Incorrect angle can also lead to loss of control. If the angle is set too far back, the vessel’s bow will rise, the centre of buoyancy will shift aft and the vessel will start to “Porpoise”. It could lead to the operator and passengers being thrown overboard. If the trim is set too far in, the boat will tend to “Plough”. The vessel will throw extra spray, lose speed and bury the bow into the oncoming waves. This will reduce the stability of the craft. The correct trim angle depends on the vessel’s handling characteristics, the size of the outboard and sea conditions. Generally, it should be 3 to 5 degrees by the stern. For better steering into the wind, the angle should be reduced slightly. On smaller outboards the trim angle is adjusted manually by moving a pin or an adjusting rod to different holes in the mounting bracket. On remote controlled outboards a Tilt/Trim Switch or a Power Trim Switch is fitted on the remote control panel or lever. The term TRIM applies to small changes in angle under normal operations and TILT to larger changes in angle when cruising in shallow water, or to raise the propeller out of the water when stopped.

Correct Trim Trim to High


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Manoeuvring & Berthing

Prepare boat before berthing by: 1. Brief your crew or guests of the position they need to take on the vessel, as it is coming into the dock. 2. Place fenders over the side of the vessel have them at the correct height and position so as to buffer against the impact between the vessel and the jetty or wharf. 3. Have mooring lines in readiness to drop on to the Bollard on the wharf or jetty.

Check wind and tides: Consideration must be made for the effect this has on the handling of your vessel. 1. Is the Wind & Tide in the same direction? 2. Is the Wind & Tide in opposing directions? If the approach to the berth is on the port side and the wind is approaching on the starboard side, it will push the boat into the wharf. If the wind is on the port side it will push you off the jetty, so have a stern line in readiness to place onto the bollard.

Check other boating traffic & hazards: 1. How many other vessels are near the jetty or wharf? 2. How many people are standing on the jetty or wharf? 3. Are people fishing from the jetty or wharf? 4. Are people netting from the jetty or wharf? 5. Are children playing on the jetty or wharf?

To dock the vessel:

Begin to approach the jetty at a very slow speed and don’t steer too aggressively to Port or Starboard. If your speed is to fast because of the high idle speed select neutral and then forward to slow your approach, this may need to be conducted a few times. To maintain steerage, forward gear must be controlled at intervals. Aim towards the far end of the jetty or the position that is furthest from you for better placement on the wharf. If you are going to berth against the tide, the boat will approach at a slower speed than with the tide. Put the vessel into reverse gear and bring rudder towards the wharf to bring

the back of the vessel in.

Secure the vessel: When vessel stops select neutral immediately, and tie the vessel up securely. If your vessel is too far from the jetty or wharf turn motor towards the wharf and select reverse, give a short burst of power and back to neutral, when you have the stern line secured select forward but no power or the vessel will lean on to the wharf. Once you have secured a line to the bollard at one end of the wharf secure a spring line from the stern of the boat to forward on the jetty then to the bow of the boat.


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Manoeuvring & Berthing Continued

Turn the motor off when the lines are secured but always recheck the mooring lines and allow slack for the rise of the vessel when unloading passengers or cargo. Remember to always recheck your fenders that they are in the correct position. Don’t take up valuable room on the pontoons by leaving your vessel moored in the middle; always leave it to one end making room for other vessels. When leaving a mooring drive off the jetty by selecting reverse, have rudder towards wharf and this will allow the bow to pull out. Then select forward gear to drive straight off. If you have no room to reverse because of other traffic, just push the vessel off the wharf and then drive away normally. To reverse out of a mooring have the rudder away from the wharf which will pull the boat away from the jetty, be well clear before selecting forward, but always look in all directions before proceeding.

Always remember to remove all mooring lines before this procedure.

These procedures may not apply to all types of propulsion.

Bow Line

Springer line to the Bow

Springer line to the Stern Bollard

Stern Line


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Tides

The word TIDES is a generic term used to define the alternating rise and fall in sea level. Tides are created because the Earth and the Moon are attracted to each other, just like magnets are attracted to each other. The Moon tries to pull at anything on the Earth to bring it closer, but the earth is able to hold onto everything except the water. Since the water is always moving the Earth cannot hold onto it and the moon is able to pull at it. This is called the GRAVITATIONAL PULL. The gravitational attraction of the moon causes the oceans to bulge out in the direction of the moon. Another bulge occurs on the opposite side, since the Earth is also being pulled toward the moon (and away from the water on the far side). Since the earth is rotating while this is happening, two tides occur each day. Ocean levels fluctuate daily as the sun, moon, and earth interact. The ocean is constantly moving from high tide to low tide and then back to high tide. There is about 12 hours and 25 minutes between the two high tides. The elapsed time between the top of high tide and bottom of low tide is approximately 6 hours. The tidal flow is not constant throughout this time frame. The volume of flow is calculated hourly. Shown below is a table referred to as tidal twelfths. You can easily calculate the height of any tide using this method. 1st Hour--------------------1/12th of Tidal Volume 2nd Hour--------------------2/12th of Tidal Volume 3rd Hour--------------------3/12th of Tidal Volume 4th Hour--------------------3/12th of Tidal Volume 5th Hour--------------------2/12th of Tidal Volume 6th Hour--------------------1/12th of Tidal Volume In most locations tides may be semidiurnal, (two high tides and two low tides) but there are occasions when we only have one tide cycle per day, this is called Diurnal. Along the coast of Queensland we have two highs and two lows each day. The semidiurnal tidal range varies in a two-week or fortnightly cycle. Around NEW and FULL MOON when the Sun, Moon and Earth form a line (a condition called Syzygy), the tidal forces due to the Sun, reinforce those of the Moon. The tide’s range is then at a maximum and this is called a SPRING TIDE. At these times, the High Tides are very High and the Low Tides are very Low. During the Moon’s quarter phases the Sun and Moon are perpendicular (at right angles) with each other, thus causing the bulges to cancel each other. The result is a smaller difference between high and low tides and is known as a NEAP TIDE. Neap Tides are especially weak tides and occur approximately 7 days after a Spring Tide. At these times, you get the: Lowest of High Tides and the Highest of Low Tides.

Earth Moon

Gravitational Pull

Largest Volume and the Strongest Flow

The Sun

New Moon

The Earth

High Tide

Low Tide

Full Moon

First Quarter Moon

The Sun

Third Quarter Moon

Low Tide

High Tide


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The term king tide has no scientific definition although it usually refers to any high tide well above average height. The popular concept is that the King Tides are the higher high waters, which occur around Christmas time. Equally high tides occur in the winter months but these are at night and are not as apparent as those at Christmas, which generally occur during daylight. King tides are no more than the very highest tides that occur at each place. They occur naturally and regularly. Tide levels are measured from a reference water level known as the chart datum. The chart datum is the level of water that charted depths displayed on nautical charts are measured from. The chart datum is generally a tidal datum; that is a datum derived from some phase of the tide. Common chart datum’s are usually taken at the LOW ASTRONOMICAL TIDE. The Low Astronomical Tide is often referred to as the LAT and is the lowest tide that can be expected under normal weather conditions. The predicted height is added to the LAT to determine the actual water depth at the predicted time, so the depth of water at any given point is calculated by adding the tidal prediction from the tide chart to the LAT which is indicated as water depths on the boating chart. An example of this would be: If you went to grid 36 in our supplementary chart and the LAT there is O.1- this means 10 centimetres or 100 millimetres or .1metre depth of water. The left hand digit indicates whole metres and the right hand number, which is lower, means a decimal point of a metre – hence, .1 of a metre. The number to the right is .5 with a horizontal line underneath it. This means a negative .5, which means .5 of a metre above the water level (or mud flats). So if you had a predicted low tide of 1 metre at the 0.1 positions you would have 1.1 metres of water at low tide and at the position of negative .5 you would have .5 of a metre of water at low tide. So for that same area say we are going to have a high tide of 2 metres at the 0.1 area we would have 2.1 metres of water at high tide and the negative .5 area you would have 1.5 metres of water at high tide. HAT is the Highest Astronomical Tide and this is the highest tide that could be theoretically predicted to occur under average meteorological conditions and a conductive combination of astronomical relationships between the earth, the moon and the sun. Tide information can be gained from a number of different sources for example, Radio, Television, Newspaper, and Internet and on Marine Radios from Limited Coast Stations like your Coast Guards. Tide tables provide detailed predications of the times and heights of high and low waters at standard ports for every day of the year. The precise position is usually named and given a latitude and longitude. The time is given in the standard time for the area in a 24hour clock. The depth of the tide is given in metres - the smaller number indicates low tide and the higher number indicates high tide.

TIDES


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Tides Continued Our tide charts have been calculated from the Brisbane Bar and for other areas you will need to adjust the times and heights of high and low waters for the area you are in or the area that you are going boating in for that particular day. For example if you are leaving the port of Brisbane and the High Tide there is at 6.30 am and you want to travel to the Gold Coast Seaway you would have to allow a time difference of 1hour and 15 minutes earlier. Thus High tide would be at 5.15am in that particular area. The back of a tide chart normally has the variations for you. This tide information with the variations is also available on Marine Charts. Some other examples of this are: Jacobs Well 15 minutes later Jumpinpin on the ocean side 1½ hours earlier Tangalooma 30 minutes earlier Point Danger 1hour and 40 minutes later Pumicestone passage is the same at the entrance but at The Skids further up the passage it is 1 hour 48 minutes later Ipswich (Bremer River) is 3 hours later on the incoming tide and 3½ hours on the outgoing tide. Redcliffe is the same as the Brisbane Bar Scarborough Boat Harbour is 5 minutes later Cleveland is 13 minutes latter Redland Bay 30 minutes latter This is why it is absolutely necessary to have a Trip Plan of where you intend to go and work out what time the height of the tide will be at its best, so that you can safely travel in that area and not run aground. Some channels will not be navigable at Low Tides.

An exercise on how the Rule of Twelfths may help you to calculate the tide. At a certain port on a certain day, High Tide is 1.8m at 0600 hours and Low Tide is 0.6m at 1200 hours. Find the height of tide for every hour between High Tide and Low Tide. SOLUTION HT at 0600 hours = 1.8metres LT at 1200 hours = 0.6metres --------------- Range = 1.2metres 1/12th of 1.2m = 0.1m thus height of tide at 0700 hours = 1.7m 2/12ths of 1.2m = 0.2m thus height of tide at 0800 hours = 1.5m 3/12ths = 0.3m height of tide at 0900 hours = 1.2m 3/12ths again at 1000 hours = 0.9m 2/12ths at 1100 hours = 0.7m 1/12th at 1200 hours =0.6m


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2.7 2.6 2.4 2.2 2.0 1.8 1.6 1.4 1.2 1.0 0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0.1 0.0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

am am am am am am am am am am am pm pm pm pm pm pm pm pm pm pm pm pm am

TIDE GRAPH FOR THE BRISBANE BAR FOR TUESDAY 23RD WITH A NEW MOON

Low Tide 4.13am 0.41 metres High Tide 9.37am 1.81 metres

Low Tide 3.40pm 0.21 metres High Tide 10.15pm 2.71 metres

If you look at a modern Marine Chart you will see different colours of water this indicates the different depths of water and will also help in plotting courses and prevent running into sand banks. Dries at low tides 0m to 1m deep 1m to 2m deep 2m to 3m deep Deeper than 3m

6 hours between high & low tide

At the 3rd & 4th hour the greatest volume of water will flow

6 Hours 6 Hours

6 Hours between High and Low Tide


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A TRAINING CHART OF LOWER BRISBANE REACH AND PARTIAL MORETON BAY


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BUOYS BEACONS & MARKS A system of buoys, marks and lights, known as the International Association of Marine Aids to Navigation and Lighthouse Authorities (IALA) Buoyage System ‘A’ is used to assist safe navigation. The IALA systems are made up of five types of buoys, Laterals, Cardinal, Safe Water, Isolated Danger and Special Mark. Just as cautionary traffic signs on highways and roads guide drivers of motorcars, buoys and beacons are signs advising the mariner of water conditions, for safe navigation, or of potential dangers. Laterals, Cardinals and Marks may either be a buoy which is moored usually in deep water or a beacon which is driven into the seabed or stand on concrete footings in shallow water. At night the beacons will display a light and each will have a different sequence. Each type of mark has a unique combination of colour, shape, topmark and light. Learn to recognise the beacons and what they indicate, and pass safely on the correct side, as passing on the wrong side may simply mean ‘running aground’. If any doubt exists about the correct way to pass these marks, consult your chart and check the direction of buoyage arrows, and always proceed with caution particularly if you’re new to boating or you are boating in unfamiliar waters.

Power-driven boats must give way to sailing boats except if they’re large with limited manoeuvrability

Powerboats generally give way to sailing boats unless the sailing boat is in the process of overtaking it.

IALA Buoyage System A

Directions of Buoyage Arrows are displayed on all Marine Charts and indicate the:

DIRECTION INTO PORT for areas where it is not obvious

It is illegal to tie up to any buoys or beacons.

Red and Green Go Between


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Lateral Marks Port and Starboard marks are referred to as lateral marks. They mark the PORT (red) and STARBOARD (green) sides of a route to be followed, such as in a channel. When a port and starboard mark are placed near to each other, travel between them. Often lateral marks are not placed in pairs, where the safe side to pass, is generally determined by the direction of travel to or from the sea. Some beacons, buoys and marks may be given a special name for example the yellow Special Mark in grid 52 on our training chart, is named the Darcy Light and in grid 61 the Port Lateral Beacon has been given the name Thorpe Memorial Beacon and these are usually named after a person of some significance. When going upstream into a port (away from the sea): Keep the red Port Hand Mark on the Port Side (left side) of your boat.

Keep the green Starboard Hand Mark on the Starboard Side (right side) of the boat. When going downstream out of port (towards the sea): Keep the red Port Hand Mark on the Starboard Side (right side) of the boat Keep the green Starboard Hand Mark on the Port Side (left side) of the boat. At night a Port Buoy shows a red light and a Starboard Buoy shows a green light.

Lateral Starboard Buoy Lateral Starboard Beacon

Lateral Port Buoy Lateral Port Beacon

Makai leaving the Port of Scarborough Harbour

Makai heading into the Port of Scarborough Harbour


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Special Marks

A Special Mark has a top shape of a Yellow Cross. This mark should be used as a caution - like a yellow traffic light on the road. Special Marks are used to mark areas of no navigational significance but have a special nature. The chart needs to be consulted to indicate the purpose of the mark, as there will normally be extra information available. A Special Mark can be used to indicate a special area or feature such as a traffic separation or a dredge spoil grounds, cable or pipeline including outfall pipes, groynes, quarantine anchorages and special mooring buoys. They can also define a channel within a channel, for example: a channel deep for draught boats in a wide estuary where the limits of the channel for normal

navigation are marked by red and green laterals.

They will also be found at the intersection of two channels where the use of a lateral or cardinal may not be appropriate. Another use for the Special Mark is when it is used to mark an exclusion zone for a special event such as a War Ship in Port. Special Marks can be used as lateral or safe water marks by using a can, cone or sphere-shaped buoys. At night a yellow light will be displayed and the sequence may be any other than those used for the white light of a cardinal, isolated danger and safe watermarks.

Isolated Danger Mark The top shape of an Isolated Danger Mark has two black spheres clearly separated. This mark indicates a danger of limited extent immediately below or somewhere in the immediate area. E.g. a rock pinnacle, isolated shoal, wreck or a reef. Treat it as a danger and keep well clear. These are often buoys and may not be directly above the danger as tidal flow drags them to one side. The area surrounding the Isolated Danger Mark may be navigable but don’t pass too close. At night the light of an Isolated Danger Mark flashes white in groups of two flashes

Safe Water Mark The top shape of a Safe Water Mark has a single Red Sphere. The colours of the beacon are red and white vertical stripes. This mark is the rarest of all marks and indicates navigable safe water all-round the mark. These are often buoys and usually indicate mid-channel with deep and safe water lies ahead or land fall. In Queensland, they are used to mark the seaward beginning of fairways entering major ports.

At night a white light shows a single long flash every 10 seconds or an Isophase (flashing light which has dark and light periods of equal length) or an Occulting light (a rhythmic light in which the total duration of light in each period is clearly longer than the total duration of darkness and in which the intervals of darkness are all equal duration).

Exclusion zone exclusively or the use of City-Cats


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FlY2s FlG4s FlR2.5s On all Marine Charts, Buoys and Beacons that are lit at night will display a tear drop which indicates the colour of the light and the abbreviations indicate the sequence and intervals of the lights. For example on the chart of partial Moreton Bay, in Grid 62 the Port Lateral Beacon has FlR 4s which means at night that Port Beacon’s light will flash RED every 4seconds. In Grid 52 the Yellow Special Mark (Darcy Light) has FlY 2s which means the light will be YELLOW and will flash every 2seconds. In Grid 16 the East Cardinal Mark has a white tear drop Q(3)10s which means it has a WHITE light that flashes quickly in a group of three every 10 seconds. Cardinal Marks A Cardinal Mark indicates the safest or deepest water exists in the direction indicated by the cardinal point direction, represented by the mark. It may also draw your attention to a feature in a channel such as a bend, junction or an end of a shoal.

Cardinal marks are a special system of marks that indicate a hazard by reference to the four cardinal points of the compass: NORTH – SOUTH – EAST – WEST. North Cardinal Mark

A North Cardinal Mark is positioned so that the safest water lies to the north. The top half of the visible portion is black and the bottom half is yellow.

The top of the beacon will have two stacked cones black in colour and both pointing up. At night a Northern Cardinal Mark will display a white continuous flashing light.

South Cardinal Mark

A South Cardinal Mark is positioned so that the safest water lies to the south. The top mark is yellow and the bottom half is black. The top mark is two stacked cones; black in colour both pointing down. At night a South Cardinal Mark will display 6 white flashes and one long flash to ensure there is no confusion with the flashing of the other cardinal points.

East Cardinal Mark

An East Cardinal Mark is positioned so that the safest water lies to the east. The mark is black in colour except for a broad yellow band around its midsection.

Its top mark consists of two stacked black cones the top one pointing up and the bottom one pointing down. At night an East Cardinal Mark will display 3 quick flashes every 10 or 15 seconds depending what’s indicated on the Marine Chart

West Cardinal Mark A West Cardinal Mark is positioned so that the safest water is located to the west.

The mark is yellow in colour except for a broad horizontal black band around its midsection. Its top mark has two stacked black cones, the top one is pointing down and the bottom one is pointing up. At night the West Cardinal Mark will display 9 white flashes every 10 or 15 seconds depending on the Marine Chart.


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For the Cardinal system to work a COMPASS is a necessity Global Positioning Systems (GPS) are commonly found on recreational boats, and while a good navigation aid, they should not be relied upon like any other electronic equipment dependent on battery power. A GPS is able to provide a latitude and longitude, updated almost continuously. This can then be plotted on a chart and should be verified with a compass. There have been a number of navigational incidents, where boats have run aground and into an obstruction, attributed to people using GPS data alone. Some positions

given by GPS will need to be adjusted due to differing datum. As with all fixes, the GPS position should be checked against something else. A GPS is not a substitute for sound watch keeping and navigational practices and should be used only in conjunction with other aids to navigation. Consider the following when using GPS and or chart plotters:

Keep a proper lookout while the vessel is underway to identify any approaching hazards. Zoom to the largest available accurate chart scale. If the zoom recommended exceeds the accuracy scale

limit then a warning message is displayed on the screen. It is advisable to switch the unit on and select the correct chart datum before departing. GPS units require time to

initialise and you may need time to assess the accuracy of the position information prior to starting the voyage. The accuracy of GPS units can be comprised by power failures or poor electrical connections. Always ensure your electrical charts are updated with supplier upgrades. When going to a waypoint in a straight line, check what is between your boat’s initial location and the waypoint. Be aware of areas under construction or development as hazards may change regularly.

Speed-Time & Distance Calculations The “Speed, Time and Distance Triangle” is one of the most basic tools a boatie needs in navigation. Using this simple formula one can predict the time of arrival, the speed of travel or the distance and with a known heading, determine an approximate position (Dead Reckoning – DR) All Dead Reckoning calculations take one of three different forms

How long will it take to go a certain distance How far will I go in a certain amount of time How fast should I go to travel in a certain distance in a given amount of time – speed

To answer any of these questions, a navigator needs to know three things: The true course The boat’s speed

The amount of time the boat has travelled at that course and speed. Thus in addition to the need for a compass course, you will need a knowledge of boat speed, an accurate watch, and a chart on which to plot the information Rules:

Always place distance at the top of the triangle Draw a line under the word “Distance” Place Speed and Time on the bottom in any order Time must be in hours

For example – If it is 2 hours 12 minutes, convert 12 minutes into 0.2 hours by dividing it by 60, then write it as 2.2 hours. Using the line under “Distance” as the “dividing in” line, the triangle offers us three equations, only one of which is needed for a given problem

Speed = Distance An example: A vessel sails a distance of 4.2 miles in 49 minutes. Time What is her speed? (Answer: 5.1 knots) (Note: 49 minutes = 0.82 hours)

Time = Distance An example: How long would a vessel sailing for 132.5 miles at 10.8 Speed knots take? (Answer 12.27 hours or 12 hours 16 minutes) (Note: 0.27 hours x 60 = 16 minutes)

Distance = Speed x Time An example: What distance would a vessel travelling from 0759 hours till 1831 hours at 12.5 knots cover? (Answer 131.6 miles)

(Note sailing period is 10 hours 32 minutes or 0.52 minutes) The speed - time - distance calculations has one common error that you may overlook and that is there are 60 NOT 100 minutes in an hour.

Distance

Speed x Time


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Weather Weather is probably the single most important factor influencing safe and enjoyable boating. Always check the weather forecast before you undertake any boating activity and be prepared to modify or abandon your plans if the weather is questionable. The Bureau of Meteorology issue regular forecasts for small boats operating in coastal waters including expected wind direction and strength, the state of the sea and swell, visibility and changes expected during the forecast period. You can listen for weather forecasts on the radio and should be done so while in port and before departure, and when at sea look for signs of approaching bad weather and regularly check the radio for impending bad weather. Thunderstorms can be a serious hazard for small vessels. They usually produce gusty winds that blow out from the front of the storm. In general, they are local storms produced by Cumulo-nimbus clouds. These are grey towering clouds that you sometimes see on the horizon. The clouds often move in different directions to the wind at the surface. If you observe these clouds over or within a few miles of your position, you should head for shore. If you are planning an extended trip it is important to learn to identify weather trends. If you happen to be caught in a thunderstorm when lightning strikes, lower your aerials and stow all graphite fishing rods flat on the deck or in side pockets. Aerials and graphite rods are excellent lightning conductors. Its important to learn how certain conditions will affect your boat, e.g. a 3 metre tinnie operating in smooth waters may be very comfortable in a gentle 5 knot breeze but quite hazardous in open water with 20 knots of wind while a 7 metre Shark Cat will revel in the same condition. Some forecasting terms may seem a little misleading to the uninitiated – a moderate breeze is in fact up to 16 knots of wind which is just about the comfort zone of most trailer boats in open waters. However that same wind force in a small river would produce little effect. Apart from wind strength, pay particular attention to wave height in your area of operations.

The Beaufort Scale Irishman Sir Frances Beaufort, a British admiral and hydrographer, created the Beaufort scale in 1805. The scale was designed to help masters of very large sailing ships. He developed the scale to help sailors estimate the winds via visual observation. The Beaufort Scale is an open scale and can be scaled down considerably in protected waters. The initial scale was from zero to 12 but in 1946 forces 13 to 17 were added but are only intended to apply to special cases such as tropical cyclones. This scale is now mainly used in China and Taiwan, which are affected by typhoons. Below is the Beaufort Scale to suit most of our power boating.

Beaufort Km/h Knots Wave Description Conditions At Sea Number Height

0 0 0 0 Calm Sea like a mirror

1 1-5 1-3 0.1m Light Air Ripples without crests

2 6-11 4-6 0.2-0.3m Light Breeze Small wavelets. Glassy crests that don’t break 3 12-19 7-10 0.6-1.0m Gentle Breeze Large wavelets-crests begin to break.

4 20-28 11-16 1.0-1.5m Moderate Breeze Small waves growing larger.

LIMIT OF COMFORT ZONE FOR MOST TRAILERABLE TYPE OF BOATS BOATS 5 29-38 17-21 2.0-2.5m Fresh Breeze Moderate longer waves-some foam and spray.

6 39-49 22-27 3.0-4.0m Strong Breeze Large waves with foam crests and some spray.

WEATHER


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Winds are generated by differences in pressure within the atmosphere. An Isobar is a line on a weather map that joins places having the same atmospheric pressure. By examining the spacing between isobars (known as pressure gradient) we can get an idea of the direction and strength of the wind. Winds will tend to be strong where the isobar lines are closer together. (A Steep Gradient). Where they are widely spaced, winds will tend to be gentle. Winds tend to blow out of a high-pressure area and rotate anticlockwise around it and tend to produce stable fine conditions. Winds tend to travel into a low-pressure system and rotate clockwise around it and can produce unstable air with the chance of overcast, gusty and at times stormy conditions. When studying the weather forecast, have regard to predicted wind strength and direction, predicted wave height and variables tolerated within the forecast. You should advise your crew and guests of the expected weather conditions, the risks involved and what precautions you will take to lesson those risks.

Navigation Lights & Daymarks By law, boats operating between the hours of sunset and sunrise whether at anchor or underway, must display the correct lights. A boat is “underway when it is not at anchor, made fast to the shore or aground” (this includes drifting) Navigation lights must also be used during the daylight hours when visibility is restricted. Lights must be placed and displayed appropriate to the size and class of your boat. These lights tell other boat operators about the boat and what it is doing – whether it is at anchor, under sail, or motoring. Navigation lights must be positioned so they are not obscured by the boat’s superstructure or interfered with by the deck lights. The manufacturer or an authorised person should fit your navigation lights. The masthead and/or all round white light must be fitted (if practical) on the centre line (bow to stern) of the boat. The importance of showing the correct lights cannot be overstated – it is not enough that you can see other boats, they must also be able to see you. Some fishermen switch off their All Round White Light to improve their night vision: this is extremely foolhardy and has caused collisions in small boats. If your boat is not equipped with lights, do not attempt any night passage no matter how limited it may be. If you plan to use your boat frequently at night, it is advisable to install a dual battery system. Run your lights only off one of the batteries. This will ensure you have one fully charged battery to start your motor in the morning. Take the time to learn and become familiar with the lighting sequences of various craft especially those of the type of boats operating in your area. If you travel frequently in bay and offshore waters, you should become familiar with the lights of fishing vessels engaged in trawling, as you certainly would not like to get tangled up in their nets at night.

A Weather forecast gives a general description of the expected weather in the forecast period and will include:

The wind strength and direction Height and direction of sea waves and swell Factors affecting visibility

Note – in forecasting terminology:

Wind gusts may be up to 40% stronger than the average speed given Some waves will be higher (up to twice the height) and some will be lower than the average heights

given Sea and swell forecasts do not take into account local influences on waves (currents, tidal flows,

water depths, and coastal landforms)


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A daymark is a three dimensional shape that can be hoisted on a ship’s mast to indicate by day those ship’s activities that are indicted by lights at night. Familiarize yourself with the various daymarks. You should commit to memory the “Safe Side” and “Obstruction Side” daymarks of a dredge. Similarly, if you operate offshore, you should know the daymark of a fishing vessel engaged in trawling. It would be comforting to think all other boaties would behave responsibly but this is not the case. All the regulations are no substitute for commonsense and the need to maintain a proper lookout at all times.

Lights of a Powerboat Underway: A vessel less than 7metre in length with a maximum speed not exceeding 7knots.

(a) A white light visible all round and if possible, separate or combined sidelights. Less than 12 metre in length

(a) Separate or combined sidelight, a masthead light and a stern light or

(b) Separate or combined sidelights and an all-round white light.

Power ships more than 12 metres in length but less than 20 metre in length

(a) A masthead light, separate sidelights and stern light or

(b) A masthead light combined sidelights and stern light.

Note: Larger boats may have two masthead lights-the higher masthead light towards the stern. Boats drifting are still “underway” and must show the same navigation lights as if they were still making way.

Sidelight: Port Side – Red (angle of Arc) - 112.5% Starboard - Green (angle of Arc) - 112.5% All Round White (angle of Arc) - 360%

Sailing Boats: While being motor driven (even with the sails up) – lights applicable to power-driven boats. Less than 7 metres in length – the same lights required for sailing boats over seven metres in length. If not, a torch or lantern showing a white light ready to display in order to avoid a collision. More than 7 metres in length and less than 20 metres in length:

(a) Combined lantern at or near the top of the mast that incorporates sidelights and stern light or

(b) Separate sidelights and stern light. More than 20 metres in length – sidelights and stern lights and may carry the optional red and green all round lights. (they must not carry a combined lantern) Any length, which is fitted with sidelights and a stern light (but not a combined lantern) may, in addition, carry two all-round lights in a vertical line at or near the top of the mast. The upper light shall be red and lower green.

Non – Powered Boats: Boats being rowed - torch or lantern showing a white light ready to display in order to avoid a collision. Vessels engaged in rowing activities (training or competition) on the Brisbane River need to be fitted with an all-round white flashing light if they are on the water before sunrise or after sunset.

Boats at Anchor: Less than 50 metres in length: - An all-round white light placed where it may best be seen. Anchor lights must always be shown from sunset to sunrise. If you are at anchor or in a busy area, then show additional lights (not navigation lights) to ensure you are seen and keep a good watch. Boats over 50 metres should have two anchor lights – the higher one towards the bow.


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Vessels engaged in trawling: Apart from the regular lights common to all powered vessels, trawlers also display a green light above their white light at night. During the day a trawler will display two large black cones with points touching, when the vessel is actually trawling, these are called daymarks and this daymark is similar to a West Cardinal Mark. A fish basket slung in the rigging is also an acceptable daymark for a trawler. Boats to Avoid: There are many other combinations of lights used at night and daymarks used during the day indicating the activity that the boat is engaged in, like fishing, dredging and vessels not under command. A simple rule of thumb for a small powerboat is to stay clear of any boats exhibiting additional lights. Below is a vessel engaged in dredging, so it’s a vessel restricted in its ability to manoeuvre, with an obstruction. It shall exhibit:

Three shapes in a vertical line where they can best be seen. The highest and the lowest of these shapes are balls and the middle one a diamond. At night the light sequence will be red-white-red.

The safe side to pass this vessel during the day will be on the side displaying 2 diamonds one above the other and at night the safe side will have 2 green lights one above the other.

The obstructed side will display 2 black spheres one above the other during the day and at night 2 red lights one above the other.

Cross-river vehicular ferries using wires or chains can be a particular hazard at night. Slow down to 6 knots or less when within 100 metres of a ferry and sound a long blast before passing astern. Preferably wait until it has reached the shore to avoid becoming entangled in the wires. Generally, in Queensland, the ferry will display a flashing red light while cables obstruct the passage. The waterways are not like well-defined roads. It is unsafe to navigate a boat with lights illuminating the water directly ahead, because it will deprive you and other boat operators of night vision. Spotlights can be used to identify specific hazards, but this should only be done when operating at very slow speeds and without affecting other waterway users. At night it is difficult to judge distances between other vessels so it is of the utmost importance to travel at night at a safe speed, so sufficient action can be taken in time to prevent a collision. Always be on the lookout for hazards such as shallow areas, oyster leases, navigation markers and of course any other vessels that are moored. Background lighting on the shore can cause confusion so care needs to be taken when approaching lights that you cannot distinguish at first. Remember not everyone is a safe boatie and lots of boaties either forget to display their anchor lights at night or have forgotten to check the charge in their batteries for the use of the lights.

So be careful at night when you are on the water and keep a proper lookout at all times


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Lead Lights These lights are often used to guide boats into a port or through sections of a waterway. The Leads will allow you to follow the deepest and safest part of the channel especially for larger craft. It is essential to consult the chart for relevant leads and other navigation aids before entering unfamiliar waters. Most Lead lights are shore based but there are just a few that you will find in the water as well. Commonly they are triangular in shape, the front beacon having its apex upwards and the rear beacon is inverted. Many new leading beacons carry no top mark and are distinguished by fixed white daylights. At night major lead lights are lit with a blue light so as not to be confused with other lights that you may see in the distance on shore. You will also find fixed blue lights at the centre of a bridge to mark the centre of a channel. Some may be on the side or some underneath the bridge. By manoeuvring your boat to a position so that both leads are lined up one on top of the other vertically, you will generally be in the centre of the channel and on the recommended course. Given leads are usually in larger channels, open them up a little to starboard to keep to the side of the channel. Leads show the centre of the channel which is not consistent with the rule advising boats to travel as far to the starboard side of the channel as is safe and practicable. This is especially important at night. Directional and Sector Lights, Lighthouse: These combinations of light colours are installed to assist navigation in inshore waters, such as bar crossing where there is a safe navigation channel between shallow submerged banks. A specific directional light may only be visible through a small arc indicating the safe water area, and the other light sectors warning of hazards. Lights associated with these marks are white, red and green colours.

Marine Radio Having a marine radio on board your craft may just one day save your life. There are four main types of marine radios: VHF: This is the preferred radio for short-range communication and is not subject to interference. It is relatively inexpensive and has the best quality of reception. It is easy to operate and is monitored by Marine Rescue Stations and Limited Coastal Stations normally 24 hours a day. For distress/calling channels use channel 16 or 67. Weather information is regularly broadcast on channel 67. Operators of a VHF radio must hold a Radio Operators Certificate of Proficiency. 27MHz: This type of radio is the least expensive and does have a limited range. It is easy to operate, but it is subject to interference. The distress/calling channel is 88 or 86 and once again is monitored by Marine Rescue groups but not by official coast stations. It doesn’t require licencing but is strongly encouraged for their own use or other user’s safety. MF/HF: This type of radio is a lot more expensive but it does have a greater communication range if travelling long distances from the shore. An operator licence is required and necessary as it is a difficult radio to operate. Official and Limited Coast stations monitor this radio. SATELLITE: Although relatively expensive, the range of satellite equipment and telephones provide excellent coverage and are the preferred long-range communication device. Training and operator certification are necessary before operating this type of equipment. As the long-term future of HF monitoring by coast stations is uncertain, investment in this type of equipment is recommended for boats off shore voyages. A Station Licence for VHF and 27MHz radios are no longer required but MF/HF still have to be licenced. MOBILE PHONES: Take your mobile phone on board but don’t regard it as a substitute for a marine radio. Mobile phones should only be used in emergencies when the marine radio has failed. Mobile phones are not entirely suitable in emergencies because: (a) Vessels which may be in the vicinity and able to render aid will not hear your call.

(b) Mobile communications are limited to two parties at any one time. (c) There is no distress priority on the mobile network. (d) Mobile phones may be out of range, have low batteries or become water damaged. (e) Directional finding equipment cannot track a mobile call the way it can track a radio transmission.

LEAD LIGHTS


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RADIO SILENCE PERIODS: On long range SSB, MF, HF and VHF radio, there is an international requirement to observe silence periods on all frequencies. These are periods of three minutes duration, which start on the hour and half hour. These periods are observed so that any distress or urgency messages, coming from a radio that has particularly weak signals, may be heard without interference from other radio traffic. We recommend the observance of silence periods on all marine radios including 27MHz. THE DISTRESS CALL: Mayday is an emergency code word used internationally as a distress signal in voice procedure radio communications; it is derived from the French word venez m’aider meaning “come to help me”. When the ‘venez’ is dropped and the remaining words are pronounced in English you get ‘mayday’ a word that is understood around the world as a distress call. The Distress Call “Mayday” has absolute priority over all other transmissions and indicates that the ship or person using it is threatened by grave and imminent danger and requests immediate assistance. Calls are made on distress frequencies VHF Channel 16 or 67 and 27MHz Channel 88 or 86 MHz or HF 4125-6215-8291KHz. A Distress Call may only be transmitted on the authority of the Master or the person responsible for the ship’s safety. You may repeat a Distress Call as often as necessary until you receive an answer. If no answer is received on distress frequencies, you may repeat the call on any frequency where you believe you might attract attention.

THE URGENCY CALL: Pan-Pan comes from the French work ‘panne’ meaning breakdown The Urgency Call “Pan Pan” should be used when the use of a distress call cannot be justified but you have a very urgent message to transmit concerning the safety of your vessel or the safety of a person. An Urgency call may only be made on the authority of the skipper or the person responsible for the ship’s safety. You may make an Urgency Call on any distress frequency or any frequency where you believe you may attract attention. An Urgency Call maybe be upgraded to a Distress Call if unanswered for a long period or the situation becomes life threatening.

Mayday – Mayday - Mayday This is Makai - Makai – Makai Mayday This is Makai The ships position is approximately 4 nautical miles north east of Shag Rock Boat has caught on fire and we are abandoning ship We have 3 adults on board all wearing life jackets Need urgent assistance

Pan Pan – Pan Pan – Pan Pan Hello All Stations – Hello All Stations – Hello All Stations This is Makai – Makai – Makai The ship’s position is approximately 6 nautical miles North East of Flinders Reef The motor on our vessel won’t start due to the severed fuel line - Require fuel or a tow Four people on board all safe at the moment


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THE SAFETY CALL: The Safety Call “Say-cure-e-tay” is derived from the French word “securite”. The Safety Call should be used if you wish to broadcast an important navigational warning to other stations. For example if you have sighted a large floating object that could damage the hull of the boat. However a Safety Call is more likely to be made by a coast station operated by a rescue organization and may include important warnings such as a severe thunderstorm, gale force winds or cyclone warning. You make the initial safety call to all stations on distress frequencies. However you should change to a working frequency to make the broadcast of the safety message.

THE PHONETIC ALPHABET

A – Alpha J – Juliet S – Sierra 1 – Wun B – Bravo K – Kilo T – Tango 2 – Too C – Charlie L – Lima U – Uniform 3 – Three D – Delta M – Mike V – Victor 4 – Fo-wer E – Echo N – November W – Whiskey 5 – Fife F – Foxtrot O – Oscar X – X-Ray 6 – Six G – Golf P – Papa Y – Yankee 7 – Sev-en H – Hotel Q – Quebec Z – Zulu 8 – Ait I – India R – Romeo 0 – Zero 9 – Nine Fire Fire in a small craft usually means abandoning ship. The key to fire safety is not fighting fires but to PREVENT them. Fire prevention can be achieved through commonsense and good housekeeping on board your vessel such as:

Carry the correct fire extinguisher or a fire-smothering blanket. Maintain fire extinguishers and locate them on the vessel where they will be easily accessed. Keep the bilge and engine room properly ventilated. Keep the bilge area free of oily rags and rubbish. Make sure any fuel burning appliances such as stoves, heaters and lights have been specifically designed

for marine use. Make sure all electrical fittings are properly fused and look for any faults that may need attending. Keep all components of the electrical system clean and free of corrosion. Never use a naked flame such as a match or lighter to illuminate storage lockers and bilges, always use

a battery powered flashlight. Regularly check your fuel system for leaks or spills and fix any faults. Don’t overcharge batteries and keep battery storage areas well ventilated to avoid the accumulation of

explosive hydrogen gas. Exercise extreme caution when using emergency flares – don’t add fire to an already dangerous situation.

Say-cure-e-tay – Say-cure-e-tay – Say-cure-e-tay Hello All Stations – Hello All Stations – Hello All Stations This is Makai – Makai – Makai We are in the Pearl Channel a kilometre off the Western Banks and there is a large shipping container floating near the North Spit “Mariners Beware”


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Some of the common causes of fire among smaller boats are:

Engine backfiring in air laden with combustible vapour Hot exhaust pipe igniting adjacent combustible materials On inboard powered boats, fuel lines can leak or rupture and spray fuel over hot exhausts A spark caused by static electricity during refuelling Fuel vapours collecting in the bilge due to spillage while refuelling

Leaking LPG, which is heavier than air, will find the lowest point in the boat When refuelling your boat:

Do a smell test first and check for any fuel leaks or LPG odours Turn off all engines, motors, fans, heating devices, electrical equipment and LPG appliances Don’t smoke or allow naked flames on, or in the vicinity of your boat Spilled fuel produces vapours that can enter the bilge and may be ignited by a spark from the electrical system Always have a fire extinguisher nearby Wipe up all spills Leave room in fuel tanks for expansion

Remember to raise the alarm when a fire occurs, alert others on board, and if the boat needs to be abandoned try not to lead it in a direction towards other vessels or any fuel that may have spilled onto the waterways.

If you do encounter a fire on board remember the fire triangle by: Removal of Fuel The removal of a fire’s fuel may simply involve closing off a fuel line stop valve or a gas cylinder valve. This can often be done through remote control valves and extension handles. However it may be necessary to use a water spray to drive heat and smoke away from these valves to enable a person to close them. Removal of Heat The volume of water as an extinguishing agent lies in its capacity to absorb large quantities of heat. If applied efficiently, water will cool materials to below its ignition point. Consequently, in addition to extinguishing fires, tanks and cylinders containing flammable liquids and gases that are exposed to fire may not become involved in the fire, if they can be kept cool with water spray. Removal of Oxygen The removal of oxygen from a fire zone is ordinarily a smothering or blanketing operation. When foam is applied onto a burning surface it forms a blanket between that surface and the atmosphere, thereby excluding the oxygen, or when a person’s clothes catch fire, by wrapping that person in a fire blanket the fire is smothered by excluding the oxygen. Regardless of the size of the craft, it is difficult to fight fires especially flammable fuel fires in a small craft. Most small craft fires often begin in machinery in the engine space or occur during or immediately after refuelling.

FUEL

STARVE

A I R

L O O C

T A E H

S M O T H E R


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The International Regulations For Preventing Collisions At Sea All local and state speed restrictions must be observed at all times. The Prevention of Collision Regulations applies to all vessels at all times, slowdown in busy areas and when around other vessels take care to observe what their activities are! Keep a proper lookout on your vessel at all times using sight, hearing and all other available means. Always travel at a safe speed – a speed you feel comfortable with and able to avoid a collision if required, slowdown in shallow areas and when boating in unfamiliar waters. Drive slowly in rain, fog, mist, smoke, and glare. Take special care when travelling at night and be aware of potential dangers. Wind and waves affect the boats performance and stability so in rough conditions slow down to reduce impact on the hull. Other factors to consider in regard to risk of collision are boat speed and whether or not compass bearings remains unchanged. Be aware of the position of overhead or underwater cables. These are invariably shown on the chart and you should not anchor near underwater cables. If your boat has a tall mast you must take care not to foul overhead cables. If your vessel is outboard or stern drive powered, make sure motor trim is correctly adjusted. Apart from improving the handling qualities of your boat, correct trimming will also improve the fuel economy of your motor. If your boat is fitted with trim tabs, make sure they are in good working order and use them for a smoother and more level ride. Some boats will achieve improved speed with properly adjusted trim tabs. GIVING WAY: Golden rule: look all around, give way to the right, turn to the right and stay to the right. In narrow channels such as rivers, creeks and canals, keep towards the Starboard Side of the channel and pass Port Side to Port Side. HEAD ON: If two vessels are approaching each other head on and a collision is likely, one or both vessels alter course to Starboard and pass each other Port Side to Port Side. You should give a clear and early indication of your intention to alter course. OVERTAKING: When one vessel overtakes another, it may do so on either side but it must keep well clear until past the vessel being overtaken. This applies to both sail and power. It is considered wise to keep clear of the overtaken vessel until you are 100 to 150 metres ahead of that vessel. Only then should you choose to move back to the centre line of the channel. CROSSING: When two vessels approach each other at right angles, the vessel on the right has right of way. If you have the right of way, you should initially maintain course and speed. However if no right of way is given, you must take action to avoid a collision by your manoeuvre alone, either by altering the course and your speed. The right-of-way rule is not a substitute for commonsense. POWER AND SAIL: A power driven vessel generally gives way to sail unless the sailing boat is in the process of overtaking it. However don’t expect large less manoeuvrable boats under power to give way. All small craft should give large boats a wide berth. SAILING BOATS: Wind on different sides When a sailing boat has the wind on different sides, the boat with the wind on the port side shall keep out of the way of the other. If sailing a boat with the wind on the port side and you see a sailing boat to windward and cannot determine with certainty whether the boat has the wind on the port or starboard side, take action to keep clear. Wind on same side When both sailing boats have the wind on the same side, the boat to windward shall keep out of the way of the boat to leeward. Note: The windward side is the side opposite to that on which the mainsail is carried or, in the case of a square-rigged boat, the side opposite to that on which the largest fore and aft sail is carried. SPECIAL RIGHTS: Power-driven boats must give way to:

Sailing boats (except if they are large with limited manoeuvrability) Boats engaged in commercial fishing and trawling Large boats constrained by their draught in channels Boats restricted in their ability to manoeuvre because of their work Boats unable to manoeuvre because of exceptional circumstances (not under command). These boats are

recognisable during the day by their marks and at night by their lights.


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SHIPPING CHANNELS: A combination of small craft and large ocean going ships in congested areas such as shipping channels raises the potential for dangerous outcomes. Large ships often travel at speeds in excess of 20 knots and fully laden cargo ships or tankers can have a stopping distance of 2.5 nautical miles. When travelling in narrower channels, such as entering a port, a ship can have little as 600mm under-keel clearance, and can neither turn nor slow down. A small boat within several hundred metres of a ship can go unseen from the helm of a ship if it is fully laden with cargo such as containers. Smaller vessels rarely appear on ships radar. Precautions should be undertaken when travelling across or alongside a shipping channel. Keep a proper lookout and monitor the appropriate VHF channel for example Channel 12 in Moreton Bay. Cross a shipping channel at 90 degrees behind a ship and never in front. Avoid fishing and anchoring within or alongside a designated shipping channel or lane.

Vessels should travel on the Starboard side of the channel and pass Port to Port

Each vessel alters course to Starboard and pass Port to Port

Negotiating Rivers & Channels Avoiding Head-On Collisions

Overtaking Crossing Situation

Boat approaching from starboard has right of way, however if no right of way is given, take action to avoid a collision by your manoeuvre alone

Overtaking can be either side. The overtaking vessel is required to keep clear of the vessel being overtaken until well past and clear.


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Speed Limits Many boating areas have maximum speed limits which are enforceable. For safety reasons, it may be necessary to stay

well below these limits depending on the conditions. Before boating in unfamiliar areas find out if there are any speed restrictions through the local marine authority and obey speed restriction signs.

Approximate Speed Conversions

Knots

k Approximate Kilometres Per Hour

Approximate Miles Per Hour

1 1.8 1.1 6 11 7 15 28 17 40 74 46

The maximum speed limit in Smooth Water is 40 Knots unless otherwise signed. (Smooth Waters includes rivers, creeks, streams, dams, lakes, and waters within half a nautical mile from land within partially smooth limits, and other waters specified in legislation.) Many speed limits are in place to minimise the wash created by boats. Therefore it is essential as a boat owner or skipper to maintain a speed that creates minimal wash. Wash can create serious safety hazards for other boats, especially in marinas and anchorages where there is an expectation of calm conditions. Wash can create damage to pontoons-jetties-shorelines-riverbanks and vessels that are in shallow water or anchored on the foreshore. Specific speed limits in Queensland waters are:

6 Knots within 30 metres of persons in the water 6 Knots within 30 metres of other boats anchored, moored

or made fast to the shore or aground 6 Knots within 30 metres of a jetty, wharf, pontoon or

boat ramp 6 Knots in harbours and marinas

For boats without speedometers, 6 knots is about 11km per hour and is equivalent to a brisk walking pace. Boats must stay at least 30 metres off a float; boat or structure that is showing a Code Flag A indicating that there is a diver below. Jet Skis must stay at least 60 metres off a float, boat or structure that is showing a Code Flag A. Learn how to judge these distances or slow down well before hand. Always be aware of new signage & speed restrictions in place on the waterways.

Bar Crossing A bar occurs where one body of water joins another eg. the South Passage Bar where Moreton Bay flows into the Pacific Ocean. Be familiar with the turbulent dynamics of ocean going bars as they usually have breakwalls and structures designed to create a deep channel that will direct the flow of water. These areas should not be underestimated. Bars may be dangerous waters with shallows, strong tidal rips, currents, incoming waves, wind, fog and rain. All of this can change throughout the day adding up to unexpectedly dangerous conditions. The tide height and direction of flow can impact heavily on the state of the waves in coastal bars. Most bars are at their safest before high tide when the flow is still inwards (flooding) and depths are towards their greatest. The peak ebb flow (midway between high and the next low) will generally produce the worst conditions. The water flows fast from the channel and hits the incoming wave, creating a monstrous curl on the waves face. The ebb tide can close the gap between each wave, making it hard to position the boat. All the while the channel becomes shallower, exposing sandbars. Pressure waves, which run at an angle across the general flow, can wreak havoc. Even if the surface looks good, there may be unsafe conditions underneath. Always observe the wave patterns and conditions before attempting to cross a bar. Ensure your boat is seaworthy and capable of taking the impact from the waves. Remember if your boat is less than 4.8 metres then legally each person must wear a suitable sized Personal Floatation Device while crossing the ocean bar. Areas to be included where PFD’s must be worn are Currumbin-Tallebudgera-Jumpinpin-South Passage-Caloundra-Maroochy-Noosa-Wide Bay-Mooloolah River mouth-Gold Coast Seaway and Round Hill Creek.

A NAUTICAL MILE is the universal measurement of Distance at Sea: One nautical mile = 1852 Metres A KNOT is the universal measurement of Speed at Sea: One Knot is One Nautical Mile per hour


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In our own opinion all persons should wear a PFD when crossing an ocean going bar no matter what size the vessel is. Prepare your vessel firstly by:

Checking the steering, bilge, hatches and drains Check all lifesaving equipment and ensure it is close by Clear decks and secure all lines Secure movable items Ensure watertight integrity Check and test the engines, steering and controls Ensure the engines are drawing fuel from a full tank Always check the weather Always log on to your local Rescue Group to inform them of your intentions

If you have never experienced an ocean going bar before we strongly urge you to seek assistance, either by taking an experienced skipper with you, calling up your local Coastguard or Air Sea Rescue groups and asking for their opinion or attend a Bar Crossing Course with a qualified instructor. Australian Builders Plate

© From July1st 2006 all new recreational craft manufactured or imported into Australia will be required to show an Australian Builders Plate. This plate provides essential safety information of the boat including the maximum number of people allowed on board, engine rating and weight and buoyancy performance. This enables informed decisions on purchase and encourages appropriate use of boats. The plate will be permanently fixed and readily visible to the boats operator in the cockpit or near the steering position. Owners who are upsizing motors on recreational boats or altering the performance by design may not be meeting their safety obligation if the engine is greater than what the manufacturer has recommended on the compliance plate. Capacity Labels Overloading your boat is one of the easiest ways to capsize it. By allowing more people on board a boat than its maximum capacity, the risk of capsizing significantly increases. Overloading comprises the safety of everyone on board. Capacity labels have been designed to show how many people they can have safely on board. All registrable boats are to have capacity label(s) fitted if the vessel does not display a Builders Plate. The Capacity label needs to be placed adjacent to the boat’s control area, so that the operator is constantly reminded of their boat’s recommended loading capacity. Capacity labels must be fitted where they can be seen clearly from each steering position. There are three different capacity labels available:

Power boats under 6 metres (Applies to dinghies, open runabouts, motor boats, half cabins and jet skis) Powered boats six metres or more (Applies to boats without a flybridge or upper decks) Powered boats with a flybridge

The label indicates the number of people the boat can safely carry in smooth water. The onus of safety rests with the operator at all times. When using the boat in exposed waters or in rough conditions, the operator should consider reducing the number of persons taken on the trip. As a guide, reduce this number by one-third when boating on the open sea or in rougher conditions. A capacity label is not required for recreational sailing ships, whether powered or not. Capacity Labels will not be required if the vessel has either a manufacturer’s plate or an Australian Builders Plate that is visible from each steering position on the boat.


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Water Classifications The chart below details the water classification for Moreton Bay. The water in all Queensland Ports is similarly classified. Water classifications affect speed limits and what safety equipment must be on board the vessel. Red line designates limits beyond which EPIRBS must be carried.

Beyond Smooth & Partially Smooth Water

Partially Smooth Water

Smooth Water

Land

Pumicestone Passage

Mud Island

St. Helena Island Green Island

Peel Island

Brisbane River

(OPEN WATERS)


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Safety Equipment Ensure the correct safety equipment is on board for the area you intend to operate in and for the possible hazards you can foresee. All safety equipment must be properly stowed out of harms away and in a dry area of your boat and within easy reach of all on board. It must be clearly marked and labelled as to its position on the vessel. Keep a check of the expiry dates on your Flares and Epirbs and mount your Epirb on the vessel where it can easily be retrieved for when you are facing that life-threatening situation. Flares should be kept in a watertight container in a place where they don’t receive too much pounding. You must have on board a Personal Flotation Device (life-jacket) for each person that you take on your vessel. The PFD must be of the correct size and fitting for each person and the correct type for the area of water you are operating in.

Jackets must bear the compliance marks of accredited certification bodies. Some international PFD’s are now also accepted as alternatives to Australian Standards. A new standard as of February 2010 has been introduced for PFD’s, AS4758 and along with AS1512-AS1499-AS2260 are acceptable for use as long as they are in good condition with no colour fading and no stiff, cracked or torn fabric. For clarification check the Maritime Safety Queensland website. www.msq.qld.gov.au

Type 1 (AS1512) is a buoyant vest that will keep you afloat in the water for a long period of time because of the flotation collar. Type 1 is highly visible in either orange or yellow and has reflective tape to increase visibility at night. They can be used in all waters but are most useful when boating offshore or in rough conditions. Type 2 (AS1499) does not have a collar and are the recommended type for water sports. They are manufactured in visible safety colours and are suitable for water-skiing, PWC (Jet Ski), sailing boats and dinghies where the user is only in the water for a short period.

Type 3 (AS2260) has the same buoyancy as a PFD type 2 although colours are not as visible. It may be specified buoyancy wetsuit also. These are not recommended for general boating use because the colours are less visible in search and rescue operations. Coastal and Safety of Life at Sea (SOLAS) PFD’s (ISO2402-1) are designed to keep the body afloat for long periods of time. They have reflective tape to improve visibility at night and a whistle attached to attract attention. These are particularly good jackets to have on board when operating long distances from shore. Inflatable PFD’s are available that are compact and suitable for wearing while being active around the boat. Many are approved PFD Type1, and require their gas cylinder serviced. (Refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations) The wearing of life jackets is now compulsory for everyone in open boats under 4.8 metres while crossing a coastal bar. Children under the age of 12 years in an open boat under 4.8 metres must wear a life jacket while underway, this also includes when drifting. Remember some types of life jackets are not the easiest to put on especially in the dark, it is a good idea to practice and in some circumstances preventive measures should be undertaken such as, to put a jacket on at the first sign of bad weather or perhaps if you are boating alone and especially if you are in unfamiliar waters.

All approved PFDs require markings that can be used to identify them as meeting the Australian standard which include:

Manufacturer’s name, trade name or trademark The words “PFD TYPE 1”, “PFD TYPE 2”, OR “PFD TYPE 3” Manufacturer’s model identification, batch identification and

Year of manufacture Intended body mass range Illustrated instructions for donning the PFD Instructions for storage and care Information relating to replacement or checking

of gas cylinders of inflatable PFD’s

PFD Type 1

PFD Type 3

PFD Type 1

Level 100 Level 50 Level 50

Special Purpose

PFD Type 1 Inflatable Level 150

PFD Type 1 - Level 275


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Safety Equipment Continued Epirbs – Epirbs must be registered with AMSA and display a sticker as proof of registration

An Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB) is a compact, buoyant, self-contained radio transmitter which continually emits a distinctive radio signal to aircraft and satellites for at least 48 hours when activated. It is a valuable form of safety equipment that you will use when you have a life-threatening situation on board your vessel. The standard Epirb is the digital 406 MHz. The analogue 121.5MHz are no longer monitored by the satellite system.

The 406MHz EPIRB is far superior and has many advantages:

A distress beacon alert is usually detected by the Rescue Coordination Centre within minutes from the geostationary satellites and on average within 90 minutes using the orbiting satellites compared with up to 5 hours with the 121.5 MHz.

More accurate positing – 5 km is the typical accuracy and is improved to 120m with a built in GPS, compared to within 20km for a 121.5 MHz.

Identifies the unit in trouble when they are registered to an international database at the Australian Maritime Safety Authority. AMSA will record the ships details so as to aid rescue authorities and minimise false alerts.

The digital transmission are higher powered, more reliable, more robust, have less interference and can have strobe lights to assist with night rescue. 406 MHz EPIRBS come in two different types. One requires manual activation, the other will automatically activate when submerged in water. To activate manually, the antenna must be vertical. The on button is protected by a sliding door, which is fitted with a tamper seal. After 3 minutes a red light will flash, indicating the EPIRB is transmitting. It should have a clear view to the sky to maximise its signal. Always store your EPIRB on the boat in a position where it will be easily accessed and only use the EPIRB when there is an acute emergency (boat on fire-hit a submerged object and sinking fast). Assess the situation if the vessel is sinking then attach the EPIRB to yourself via the lanyard and let it bob along in the water behind you. Epirb batteries have expiry dates, which should be shown clearly both on the battery and the outside of the beacon. Check the manufacturer’s requirements for battery replacement. It is very important that each person you take out on your boat has the knowledge of where your safety equipment is located on-board the vessel, and that each person knows how to use that equipment in case of an emergency. Flares Flares indicate assistance is required and show your location to a search craft. Use flares when there are other boats or aircraft in the area. Two red hand held flares and two orange smoke flares must be carried in boats when operating in partially smooth and open waters. Flares can be easily identified at night by the raised symbols on top of the flare. “O” for the orange flare and “x” symbol on the red flare. Orange flares are only visible during the day and the smoke emitting from the flare can be seen up to 4 kilometres away. Red flares are to be used at night and will glow for approximately 60 seconds. The glow can be seen up to 10 kilometres away. Remember flares can become very hot when they ignite, especially the red one, so hold the flare downwind and away from passengers and do not stand anywhere near your fuel tank. Cool the flare by dipping it into the ocean and then stow it until you have returned. Flares do have an expiry date on them, so keep this in mind when you purchase to see that you have a shelf life of approximately 3 years from the date of purchase. There are severe penalties for misuse of flares.


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Safety Equipment Continued Safety equipment requirements are divided into three areas.

Compulsory equipment for all boats

Compulsory equipment for all registrable boats

Recommended equipment to be carried to satisfy “General Safety Obligation”

Safety Equipment for all Recreational Boats Non-registrable boat means recreational boats with an engine or auxiliary under 3kw (4hp) Registrable boat means recreational boats with an engine of 3kw (4hp) or over Required means equipment that must be carried Recommended means equipment that is suggested to be carried to meet the General Safety Obligation

EQUIPMENT

SMOOTH WATER

PARTIALLY SMOOTH

WATERS

BEYOND SMOOTH AND PARTIALLY SMOOTH WATER (OPEN WATERS)

Non-Registrable Boat

Registrable Boat

Non- Registrable Boat

Registrable Boat


Registrable Boat

EPIRB

Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon

REQUIRED When operating 2 nm from land

REQUIRED When operating 2nm from land

SIGNALLING

DEVICE (Torch etc.)

REQUIRED

REQUIRED

REQUIRED

REQUIRED

REQUIRED

REQUIRED

PFD’S

(Life Jackets) One of the appropriate sizes for each person 12 months and over. Children under 12 years must wear the PFD when underway in an open boat under 4.8metres

PFD TYPE 1-2-3 or Level 275,150,100 Level 50 or Level 50 special purpose Recommended

PFD TYPE 1-2-3 boat *2-3 sports Level 275,150, 100, Level 50, 50 Special Purpose *Sports Level 50 or Level 50 special purpose REQUIRED

PFD TYPE 1 or 2 Level 275,150,100 or Level 50 Recommended

PFD TYPE 1 or 2 boat *2 sports Level 275, 150,100, Level 50 *Sports Level 50 REQUIRED

PFD TYPE 1 Level 275,150,100 Recommended

PFD TYPE 1 boat *2 sports Level 275, 150,100 *Sports Level 50 REQUIRED

Except in a river, creek or stream, or waters contained within breakwaters or revetments if the boat has positive flotation and grab handles, lines or a secure hold for each person on-board. PFD is not required for a tender to a recreational boat if used within 1km of the primary boat and tender has a positive floatation statement ***in the approved form

PFD must be worn when crossing designated bars in open boats under 4.8 metres PFD not required for a tender to a recreational boat if used within 1km of the primary boat and tender has a positive floatation statement *** in the approved form

PFD must be worn when crossing designated bars in open boats under 4.8 metres PFD not required for a tender to a recreational boat if used within 1km of the primary boat and tender has a positive floatation statement *** in the approved form

*Sports = Water Skiing, Wake Boarding, Parasailing, Tobogganing, or Jet Skiing (Personal Watercraft) *** in the approved form = A positive floatation statement which is a certificate from a manufacturer or an accredited marine surveyor


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Safety Equipment for all Recreational Boats Continued

Non-registrable boat means recreational boats with an engine or auxiliary under 3kw (4hp) Registrable boat means recreational boats with an engine of 3kw (4hp) or over Required means equipment that must be carried Recommended means equipment that is suggested to be carried to meet the General Safety Obligation

EQUIPMENT

SMOOTH WATER

PARTIALLY SMOOTH

WATERS

BEYOND SMOOTH AND PARTIALLY SMOOTH WATERS (OPEN WATERS)


Registrable

Boat


Registrable Boat


Registrable Boat

V SHEET

Recommended

REQUIRED

Recommended

REQUIRED

FLARES

Recommended

REQUIRED 2 Red & 2 Orange

Recommended

REQUIRED 2 Red & 2 Orange

FIRE FIGHTING EQUIPMENT

Recommended

REQUIRED All boats over 5 metres

Recommended


Recommended


CAPACITY LABEL

**REQUIRED

**REQUIRED

**REQUIRED

NAVIGATION Chart and a compass

Recommended

Recommended

Recommended

Recommended

ANCHOR For boats less than 5m, the cable can be chain or rope. For boats over 5m the cable can be chain of at least 2m attached to anchor and rope

Recommended

Recommended

Recommended

Recommended

Recommended

Recommended

Less than 5m, one anchor with 18m cable 5-8m one anchor with 27m cable Over 8m, two anchors with 37m cable each

Less than 5m, one anchor with 27m cable 5-8m, one anchor with 27m cable Over 8m, two anchors with 37m cable each

Less than 5m, one anchor with 27m cable 5-8m, one anchor with 27m cable Over 8m, two anchors with 37m cable each

PUMPING OR BAILING EQUIPMENT

Recommended

Recommended

Recommended

Recommended

Recommended

Recommended

Under 5m: suitable bailing equipment 5-8m: bilge pump 45L per minute bailing capacity Over 8m: bilge pump 70L per minute bailing capacity



MANUAL PROPULSION Oars or paddles

Recommended Boats under 6 metres

Recommended Boats under 6 metre





DRINKING WATER

Recommended Min 2 litres per person






**Capacity Label can be either an Australian Builders Plate or a label issued by MSQ


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Sound Signals Most recreational boats less than 12 metres do not use sound signals; however larger boats use them and being aware of what these sound signals stand for may help with your course of action that may need to be taken. Sound signals may be accompanied by light signals. Boats over 12 metres should carry sound signals a whistle and a bell. Vessels under 12 metres should have some means of making an efficient sound signal. A long blast is about 4 to 6 seconds long shown thus: A short blast is about 1 to 2 seconds duration shown thus: Common signals used are: I am altering my course to starboard:

I am altering my course to port: I am operating in with astern propulsion: I am alerting the other boat-I am unsure of your intentions: All boats should sound a fog signal in restricted visibility to alert others of their positions. The most common fog signals, sounded at intervals not exceeding two minutes include.

Power boat underway, making way: Water Skiing Water skiing involves the towing of a person or persons behind a boat (on skis, bare feet, inflatable toys, wake boards, tubes, toboggans or a parasail). The owner or master of the skiing vessel has a responsibility for the safety of others: Make sure the vessel is safe and capable of towing skiers. Is responsible for ensuring that the waterway is safe for skiing. Check for sufficient depth of water, width to make turns safely and any other hazards e.g. beacons, buoys and bridges. Certain areas may be gazetted as non-skiing area it is the skipper’s responsibility to determine if such is the case in an area you intend to use. Water Skiing is prohibited: In certain areas usually designated by signs - In all six knot zones including harbours and marinas - Within 30 metres of people in the water, anchored boats, diver’s flag, jetties, pontoons or boat ramps - Within 60 metres of people in the water if operating a PWC Water skiing is permitted in all other areas however it is the responsibility of the driver to ensure the area is safe and suitable for skiing. The Gold Coast and Sunshine Coast have some designated water ski areas and times for operations. These are clearly marked by signs. For restricted areas go to www.msq.qld.gov.au When water skiing the skier must wear a PFD (life Jacket) at all times.

PFD Type 2-3 or a wetsuit with inbuilt floatation approved as a PFD Type 3 in Smooth Water Limits.

PFD Type 2 in Partially Smooth Water and Open Waters Limits. When towing skiers, the vessel must have an observer on board older than 12 years of age and competent enough to watch the skier at all times. Their responsibilities should include:

To tell the operator of the vessel if there is a danger, or potential danger to the skier (such as another vessel in close proximity)

To observe the skier’s hand signals and act upon the signal To tell the operator of the vessel if the skier has a fall or mishap

When skiing in lakes, rivers, and creeks, boats should travel in an anticlockwise pattern. In a few locations, local customs and conditions may dictate the direction of travel. Safety Tips: The tip of the ski must always be showing before the boat starts. After a fall, a skier should always clasp hands over head if unhurt until seen by the observer and boat driver. No signal from a fallen skier calls for immediate action by the observer and driver. A fallen skier getting into a boat should leave their skis in the water and swim towards the boat. The driver should always stop the engine, before picking up the skiers from the water. Skiers should enter a boat over the stern whenever possible.


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Signal Flags

The international codes of signal flags are used as a means of communication. Each letter of the alphabet has a corresponding flag. A great many messages can be sent by combining hoists of code flags. It is most unusual for a trailer boat to carry a full complement of signal flags; however you should become familiar with some of the flags, which are sometimes flown from larger vessels and special purpose craft. Below are just a sample of what flags can indicate, and ones that are more commonly seen and used in our vicinity.

The international signal Code Flag “A” flown alone and sometimes flown from an anchored buoy means “DIVER BELOW”. This flag clearly indicates that a diver is in the water and special care should be taken in the vicinity. Be sure to use the flag on your vessel if you ever engage in diving.

Boats must stay at least 30 metres away from a vessel engaged in diving and Personal Watercraft must keep a distance of 60 metres.

A R C H I E

CODE FLAG “A” Alpha

During night diving, a boat must show the international signal for a “vessel restricted in its ability to manoeuvre”. These are three lights as shown here.

CODE FLAG “R” Romeo

OVER CODE FLAG “Y” Yankee

The “R” flag flown directly above the “Y” flag means

“NO WASH” Usually flown from a shore base but could be flown from a special purpose vessel for example a barge. You will notice there is no speed limit associated with this message but you must reduce speed until your vessel produces no wash.

CODE FLAG “B” Bravo

The vessel is involved in carrying, taking on, or discharging dangerous cargo Keep a safe distance!


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Anchors An anchor is a heavy object, often made out of metal that is used to attach a ship to the bottom of the seabed at a specific point. An anchor works by resisting the movement force of the vessel that is attached to it. There are two primary ways to do this via sheer mass and by hooking into the seabed. It may seem logical to think wind and currents are the largest forces an anchor must overcome, but actually the vertical movement of waves develop the largest loads and modern anchors are designed to use a combination of technique and shape to resist all these forces. Basic anchoring consists of determining the location, dropping the anchor, laying out the scope, setting the hook and assessing where the vessel ends up.

Before anchoring consider: Is the anchorage protected? Does the seabed have good holding ground? What is the depth, tidal flow and the current state of the tide? What is the wind strength? Are you in close proximity of other vessels? The purpose of the chain between the anchor and the anchor line is to keep the stock or shank of the anchor parallel to the seabed that then allows the flukes of the anchor to gain maximum penetration into the seabed. The chain also helps the anchor line chafing the bottom, generally the bigger the boat the more chain you require. Secure the anchor rope to the boat and always place it in a neat condition in the anchor well of the boat. When anchoring don’t just throw line and anchor over together, it may tangle and foul the flukes. It is a good idea to lower the rope hand over hand, and then let it touch the bottom and let the boat go astern until sufficient line is laid. Always check to see if the boat is not drifting and when you want to retrieve the anchor start up the engine and slowly motor along the line of the anchor rope, bringing in the rope and feeding it into the bin. Don’t over-run the rope. Don’t anchor by the stern, as this is one of the surest ways to sink your boat. Anchoring by the stern causes the stern to sit too low in the water and waves may easily wash overboard. When anchored the ratio of line to let out to depth of water is called the scope. It is a good idea is mark off the rope at regular intervals with coloured tape, so you’ll know how much rope to release so that the anchor sets correctly. The greater the scope, the more secure the anchor as the pull on the line will be flatter and the flukes will dig in more firmly.

More scope is essential when anchoring in rough conditions. Allow extra scope when anchoring overnight.

Calm conditions Rough conditions = 5 x depth of water = 8 x depth of water = 30 metres = 48 metres

Depth of water 6 metres

S C O P E

In extremely calm weather conditions with little or no tidal flow a 3 to 1 ratio is adequate depending on the size of the anchor.

Attach a minimum of 2 metres of chain to your anchor


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DO NOT ANCHOR! * Do not anchor within 30 metres of a boat ramp or jetty. * Do not anchor a ship within 50 metres of a signed under water cable or pipeline. * Do not anchor a ship within 100 metres of a dam wall, spillway or weir. * Do not anchor a ship in gazetted waters where presence of anchored ships involves a danger to aircraft e.g. Sea Planes. * Do not anchor, berth, moor or operate a vessel in gazetted waters where doing so endangers marine safety.

Other than an emergency, boats must not anchor in major shipping channels near navigation beacons or important notices. In certain areas such as the Tangalooma Wrecks, Pumicestone Passage and the Brisbane River, “No Anchoring” signs are in place so please keep a lookout for them. To protect corals from anchor damage, there are three “no anchoring” areas in the Moreton Bay Marine Park where anchoring is not allowed. These areas are at FLAT ROCK - FLINDERS REEF - MYORA REEF. TYPES OF ANCHORS The Danforth Anchor is a good all-purpose anchor designed for small crafts. The anchor has excellent holding power in mud and sand. The folded flat design makes it very economical for space in anchor wells. The anchor has a small stock passing through the crown to prevent the anchor from rolling when its flukes dig into the bottom. This anchor loses holding power considerably when at a short stay, it needs a high scope ratio. It tends to break out easily if the strain comes from a much different direction to that in which it was set. It is also subject to fowling more readily than others.

The Bruce Anchor has excellent holding power in sand and mud and requires a relatively short scope. It will not foul its rode and needs low force to break out. It has no moving parts and is exceptionally strong and easy to handle and stow on a bow roller. It is difficult to stow on deck. The Reef or Grapnel Anchor is

constructed of a 60-90cm length of G.I. pipe, through which two lengths of 1.9-2.5cm round-bent iron is inserted. The bights of the round steel protrude at one end of the pipe. The opposite end of the round steel is bent in the shape like the ribs of an umbrella. The grapnel anchor rarely has enough fluke area to develop much hold in sand, clay or mud but is excellent to use on rocky reefs. This anchor should not be used on coral reefs due to the environmental damage.

A Sea Anchor or Para anchor is a small drogue acting like a parachute and is used in heavy seas to slow the drift and keep the bow of the boat into the wind and the waves. This will also provide more comfortable conditions when drifting in choppy seas. If you plan to go boating offshore or on an extended trip, a sea anchor is a valuable piece of equipment to have on board. Always attach a minimum of 2 metres of chain to the anchor and don’t use an anchor line that floats such as polypropylene. Silver rope is good but nylon is better as it has superior stretching properties, higher tensile strength and greater abrasion resistance.

Sea Anchor

Para Anchor


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Alcohol And Safe Boating The effects of alcohol are enhanced while on the water due to the sun, wind, waves and constant motion. It can erode a sense of balance, fade vision, impair judgement and adversely affect co-ordination, all of which reduce the ability to safely handle a boat. Reflexes and response times to emergencies are slowed dramatically. The alcohol limit of 0.05 applies on boats as it does on the road. L & P licenced persons must remain ZERO The master is responsible for the safe handling of the boat even if another person is actually driving the boat. It is therefore, the master’s responsibility to stay below the 0.05 limit at all times and to ensure that any person driving the boat is also under the limit. There are heavy penalties for persons convicted of operating the boat while under the influence of alcohol or a drug ranging from monetary penalties to imprisonment and the marine drivers licence may be suspended or cancelled. A master may be convicted of being in charge of a boat under the influence of liquor or a drug even though someone else is driving the boat-just like an instructor would be liable if under the influence while the driver, on a learners permit is sober. This emphasises that the master is at all times responsible for the safety of the boat and all on board. Being under the influence of a drug does not refer only to illegal substances. Prescription medications may also pose problems, particularly if mixed with even a small amount of alcohol. Seasickness preventatives, hay fever and other allergy preparations can induce drowsiness and make you easily confused. Skippers of recreational boats should also be aware that, when their boat is anchored, it may still be considered to be used for navigation, and the blood alcohol limit applies. The limit does not change unless the boat is securely moored in a marina, to a jetty or wharf or on a swing mooring. If the holder of any marine licence has been convicted of a drink driving offence in a road motor vehicle, their marine drivers licence can be cancelled or suspended.

ALCHOL CONSUMPTION MAY VOID YOUR INSURANCE COVER AND MAY DIRECTLY COMPRISE YOUR

GENERAL SAFETY OBLIGATION.

First Aid At Sea Treating some of the common medical situations associated with boating: Hypothermia! Hypothermia is when the body’s core becomes cold. While the temperature of the environment and the skin can fluctuate widely, the inner body core temperature must remain constant. If the core temperature fluctuates by as little as 1 degree, major medical problems can result. In cold air or water a person can feel very cold, however it takes 10-15 minutes before vital organs are affected. Shivering adjusts core temperature in mild cases, as does exercise and food. Disorientation and loss of consciousness occur when the core temperature has dropped from the normal 37degrees to approximately 30 to 32 degrees centigrade. Death, caused by heart failure, can be the result of core temperature dropping below 30 degrees centigrade. When in water hypothermia has a more indirect way of causing death. Long before the core temperature has dropped to below 30 degrees centigrade, loss of consciousness will cause a victim to submerge and drown. Wearing a life jacket will prevent submersion and, in some cases, even provide protection from hypothermia. The critical heat loss areas are:

Top of the head Sides of the neck Sides of the rib cage Upper thigh and groin area Techniques to help lessen the effect of hypothermia:

The HELP (Heat Escape Lessening Posture) technique minimises the main areas of heat loss - the head the sides of the chest and the groin area. If wearing a PFD type one always tilt your head back and rest it on the life jackets collar. Bring your legs into a crouching position thus keeping the groin area warm, and cross your arms in front of you onto your chest keeping the underarm area warm. The HUDDLE technique is useful if there is a group of people in the water. The warmth of the people staying together so that their chests and arms are protected can increase their survival time.


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Registration All boats fitted with a motor above 4hp (3 kw) require registration when on the water in Queensland. Registration forms are available at a Queensland Transport Customer Service Centre and must be lodged once your vessel has been purchased. The boat will be allocated registration symbols. These must be clearly visible in plain characters in a contrasting colour to the hull of the boat. When a registered boat is sold it is the responsibility of the new owner to lodge an application for transfer of the registration within 14 days.

Non-planing hull vessels registration symbols must be a minimum of 75mm high and placed on both sides

of the craft or on the stern.

Planing hull vessels registration symbols must be of a minimum of 200mm high on both sides of the craft.

Tenders to registered recreational boats are exempt from registration provided they are used within two nautical miles of the mother boat. The vessel must be marked with the word tender and bare the same registration symbols of the mother boat, these symbols may be placed on the inside of the boat if not possible on the outside. Registration labels must be placed on the port hand side of the vessel alongside the registration symbols.

Marine Incident Reporting All marine incidents must be reported to a Shipping Inspector within 48 hours of the incident, unless there is a reasonable excuse. Shipping inspectors are marine safety officers (located at Maritime Safety Queensland marine operations bases), and officers of Queensland Water Police and Queensland Boating and Fisheries Patrol. A “Marine Incident Report” form must be completed. These forms can be downloaded from www.msq.qld.gov.au It is vital for the boat owner to report the incident, as most insurance companies will not honour the claim without a copy of the report form attached. A reportable incident may include:

The loss of a person from a boat The death of, or grievous bodily harm to, a person caused by a boats operation The loss or presumed loss or abandonment of a boat A collision of a boat The stranding of a boat Material damage to the boat Material damage caused by a boat’s operations Danger to a person caused by a boat’s operations Danger of serious damage to a boat Danger of serious damage to a structure caused by a boat’s operations

If involved in an incident involving more than one boat it is a legal requirement (in addition to reporting) to:

Render any possible assistance without endangering passengers or crew Stay at the scene of the incident to ensure the safety of all involved Give details of the owner of the boat to the operator if any other boat involved Assist any injured persons Assist the owner with any damaged property

It is an offence not to report a marine incident and can result in a fine up to $300


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Insurance Are you aware there is no third party insurance on boat registration! Third party cover is usually part of the insurance that you should arrange privately. It would be foolish to operate a vessel uninsured; the aftermath could see you facing a huge damages claim. Some Insurance companies will not insure hulls past a certain age. Before purchasing a vessel, you should make sure it can be insured and you should arrange at least a cover note before you take the vessel anywhere by sea or land. Insurance coverage to meet the cost of pollution clean-up and salvage operations, following an accident is now mandatory for a recreational vessel between 15 and 34 metres (50 to 115 feet) in length in Queensland. It is compulsory to have insurance cover in place to meet up to $250,000 of clean-up costs of any pollutants discharged into coastal waters and you will need a further $10,000,000 cover in place for the operator’s legal liability. Additionally, all operators are required to have insurance cover in place to meet the needs of salvage or removal of the boat from coastal waters if it is abandoned or wrecked. Moreton Bay Marine Park The Moreton Bay Marine Park covers the south-east corner of Queensland from Caloundra to the Cold Coast. The habitats found in the Marine Park include open ocean, sandy beaches, coral reefs, rocky shores, seagrass and sponge beds, mangrove forests, mudflats and sandbanks. These habitats support a diversity of marine fauna and flora including more than 1000 species of fish, that share the waters with six of the world’s seven species of marine turtles and several threatened species such as grey nurse sharks and dugongs. The Moreton Bay Marine Park is divided into different Zones and below is your user guide for the Marine Park.

ENTRY AND USE GUIDE

General use Zone

Habitat protection zone

Conservation park zone

Marine national park zone

Boating Yes Yes Yes Yes Line Fishing Yes Yes Yes-a No-b Trolling Yes Yes Yes-a No-b Crabbing Yes Yes Yes-c No-b Bait Gathering Yes Yes Yes No-b Bait Netting Yes Yes Yes No-b Netting (other than bait netting)

Yes Yes No-b No-b

Limited Spearfishing

Yes Yes Yes No-b

Limited Collecting Yes-d Yes-d Yes-d No-b Trawling Yes No-b No-b No-b

Note: a. = Up to two lines and a maximum of two hooks per angler b. = All equipment must be stowed or secured c. = Maximum of four pots per person d. = No coral. Limits apply to species and equipment (Note these are only a brief summary. Refer to www.derm.qld.gov.au (Department of Environment and Resource Management) There are designated areas to help manage specific issues that occur at specific locations in the Marine Park. The rules that apply to designated areas are in addition to zoning rules, not instead of them. There are nine designated areas in Moreton Bay Marine Park, four of these relate to recreational and commercial use of the park and five of which relate to activities such as dredging and works. Those affecting us boaties and jet skiers are: GO SLOW AREAS FOR TURTLES AND DUGONG Protect turtles and dugong from boat strike, which is a major threat to these species.

All vessels must travel off-the-plane or in displacement mode and in a way that minimises the chance of a turtle or dugong being struck

Motorised water sports are prohibited (Other than a straight line; for example driving in circles, weaving, and surfing down or jumping over waves, swell or wash. It also includes towing a person for water-skiing parasailing or wakeboarding)

Vessels over 8 metres are restricted to 10 knots or less


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Pollution Garbage Pollution Unfortunately some boat operators are deliberately or accidentally throwing their garbage into our waterways, which directly contributes to the pollution problem. Most of our garbage today is made from non-biodegradable products such as plastic, which persists, in the marine environment for many years. Marine animals such as fish, turtles, whales and water birds can die because they mistakenly eat plastic material for food. Others become entangled in garbage and plastic line causing death. Ropes, plastic material and fishing line can get caught in propellers and block water intakes causing major damage. Reduce the chance of garbage entering our waterways by:

Don’t throw anything overboard, including cigarette butts Have secure bins or garbage bags to store the rubbish on-board until you return to shore Avoid taking plastic bags or containers on-board Carry food in reusable containers and use crockery or re-usable cups, plates and cutlery Make the effort to retrieve lost or damaged fishing gear If garbage does end up in the water, take the time to retrieve it

Total Ban on Plastic: The discharge of plastics into the sea is totally prohibited in any location. Boat operators must retain all plastic material for disposal at port facilities. Examples are fishing nets and gear, synthetic ropes, fibreglass, floats, six-pack holders, eating utensils and electrical components. As a general rule no discharge of garbage overboard. It should be stowed on board and disposed of responsibly once you are back on shore. Remember pollution is an offence! Oil & Chemical Pollution Some boat operators, deliberately or accidentally, discharge oil and chemicals into our waterways either through refuelling, boat maintenance and bilge discharges. Oil and chemicals can be toxic to marine and human life, so it is of the utmost importance not to discharge these products into the water from the ship. All boat operators need to manage the use and disposal of on-board oil and chemicals properly e.g.

Always check the capacity of fuel tanks before refuelling When refuelling, insert the nozzle into the filler before starting the pump. Always turn the pump off and ensure

that the flow has stopped before removing the nozzle Watch the breathers for signs of “blow-back” or overflow Do not overfill your fuel tank, leave 2% room for expansion If you overfill your fuel tank, wipe the spill up, and don’t hose the fuel into the water Supervise the operation of bilge pumps to ensure only water is being pumped into the waterways Review the installation of your bilge pump’s float switch to stop oil accidentally discharging with bilge water If you use degreasers or detergents, including biodegradable products to clean your bilge, make sure the residue

is not discharged through the bilge Repair oil and fuel leaks when first noticed For everyday deck scrubbing use clean water and only use chemicals for severe staining Read the product information before you decide on any chemical cleaner. If it is toxic to humans then it will not

be good for marine life If you accidentally discharge oil or chemicals into the water, let the regional harbour master, marina operator or port authority know so that the area may be cleaned up before it creates a disaster to the marine environment.


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Sewage Pollution Management The discharge of sewage from boats contributes to reduced water quality, poses a human and animal health risk and decreases visual aesthetics of waterways. Boat owners and operators must adopt on-board sewage management measures if sewage is likely to be generated. This could be a portable toilet, holding tank or a sewage treatment system. As of 1st January 2010, it is an offence for a vessel with more than 16 persons on board to discharge untreated sewage (sewage that has not passed through a sewage treatment system), into any Queensland coastal waterway. Prohibited discharge waters No discharge of treated and untreated sewage is allowed in:

Boat harbours Canals Marinas Designated areas of State Marine Parks

If your vessel has on board sewage facilities, more information is available on www.msq.qld.gov.au or Phone enquiries can be made to 31207432 or 31207429 Noise Management Be considerate about noise as it is amplified on the water making engine noise and music appear louder. For the enjoyment of everyone, noise should not be offensive. Noise also disturbs wildlife, so care should be taken to reduce noise in the vicinity of waterbirds and other animals. Factors have to be taken into account:

* Character of the noise * Quality of the noise * The effect the noise has on activities * Time of the noise event * Waterside land use * Number of people affected

As a general guideline, for recreational ships and Personal Watercraft, the maximum noise level for engines is 85dB(A) at 30 metres. Complaints regarding noise should be directed to the Department of Environment and Resource Management or the local government authority (council). Coastguard & Volunteer Marine Rescue Groups

These volunteer groups are called to countless rescues each year ranging from flat batteries, mechanical failures to life threatening search and rescue operations. Being a member of a volunteer rescue group provides you with peace of mind for you and your family while you are on the water. Use your marine radio to log onto the rescue group each and every time you go out on the water even if you are only out on the water for a short time. If you don’t have a marine radio on board log into your mobile phone the number of your closest Coastguard or Air Sea Rescue branch, so that if you have a mishap while out on the water, at least you can get in touch with someone that can come to your aid quickly. Coast Guard Brisbane 33965911 VMR Jacobs Well 55461100 Coast Guard Redcliffe 32035522 VMR Raby Bay 38212444 Coast Guard Caloundra 54913533 Coast Guard Noosa 54743695 Coast Guard Southport 55311421 Coast Guard Redland Bay 32067777 VMR Bribie Island 34087596 Coast Guard Mooloolaba 54443222 Seaway Tower 55912948 VMR Sandgate 32698888 Authority On The Waterways Registration, Licensing, Safety Equipment, Speed Limits, Marine Parks and other regulations affecting recreational boating are enforced by the Water Police and the Boating and Fishing Patrol. Their role is to conduct on-water enforcement patrols targeting known hot spots. Regular and random checking is now a feature of modern boating.

Brisbane Water Police 38950333 Redland Bay 38294129 Gold Coast 55095700

http://www.msq.qld.gov.au/

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