BISCOL projectCIP Eco-innovation

Pilot and market replication projectsCall 2009

Call Identifier: CIP-EIP-Eco-Innovation-2009

Contract ECO/09/256112/SI2.567273

BIoprocessing for Sustainable production of COLoured textiles

DEPARTMENT of BIOTECHNOLOGY, CHEMISTRYand PHARMACYvia A. de Gasperi, 2; 53100 SIENA – ITALY

NEXT TECHNOLOGY TECNOTESSILEVia del Gelso 13; 59100 PRATO – ITALY

WETLANDSRue du Laid Burniat 5; 1348 LOUVAIN-LA-NEUVE –BELGIUM

ACHIMO s.r.l.Via B. Cellini 69/71/73; 59013 MONTEMURLO (PO) –ITALY

SETAS KIMYA SAN ASKaranfil Solak 18; 34330 1. LEVENT ISTANBUL –TURKEY

LANIFICIO LUIGI RICCERI s.r.l.Via Bologna 314; 59100 – PRATO - ITALY

BISCOL projectBioprocessing for Sustainable production of COLoured

textiles

Context: textile and clothing industry

It is one of the world most global industries, and constitutes an important source ofincome and employment of many EU countries:-It suffers now displacement to the developing world due to increasing production as wellas high labour costs in Europe-It is a multifaceted area (involving treatment of raw materials, finishing activities, etc.)requiring a deep understanding of design, management and technology.Dye synthesis pathways, as well as the dyeing of fibres, are non worker-friendly processesand also non environmental sustainable processes, due to the low yield of deying step andthe high amounts of chemicals. Some EU legislations and directives (as White paper,Directive 2002/61/CE, Directive 2008/1/EC, Directive 2008/98/EC) though very usefulfor health and environment will reinforce the industrial difficulties. Also when rawmaterials are imported from India and China, their production (under conditions which areunacceptable in Europe) increases the world-wide sum of global pollution.

Visit us athttp://www.biscol.unisi.it

Scope and Objectives of the BISCOL project:

BISCOL project is focused on the textile dyeing industry proposing a new dyeingprocess as global alternative for the bioconversion of raw materials intocompetitive eco-viable final products.

To reach this scope different expertises, optimized during other research projects bypartners of consortium have been combined, in particular:

Each step has been assisted by Life Cycle Assessment and Life Cycle Costinganalysis, to embed environmental constrains in the overall process.

Synthesis of bio-dyes: new bio-dyes have been synthesized at semi-industrialscale by scale-up of bioreactor containing laccase enzyme, able to bio-synthesizednew coloured compounds.

Textile pre-treatments: scale-up of dry pre-treatment technologies enabling toincrease dyeability of selected textiles versus conventional and bio-dyes.

Synthesis of new auxiliaries: new auxiliaries at lower environmental impact, havebeen synthesized at industrial scale and combined with bio-dyes.

Optimisation of dyeing process: reduction of energy demand of dyeing process(e.g. lowering temperature and time of treatments) in combination with the use ofnew bio-dyes and auxiliaries and treated textile in order to validate at industrialscale the proposed new dyeing process.

Work phases

1.Textile pre-treatments

2. Synthesis of new auxiliaries

3. Synthesis of bio-dyes

4. Optimization of dyeing process

5. Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) and Life Cycle Costing (LCC)

auxiliary

Interaction

with fibre dyestuff

Associated dyestuff

Adsorption Association Solvation

SO 3H

OH

NH 2 O

NHO3S NH 2

OLa ccase ( LAC)from Cer r ena unicolor

( CU 35 5)

2

Cu rie_22

Conventional Process

Biscol Process

1 kg

Wollen

fabric

1 kg

Wollen

fabric

1 kg

Coloured fabric

1 kg

Coloured fabric

LCA System Boundaries

Process for woollen textiles

�Increase the superficial area of thetextile fabric�Complete removal of the epicuticle�Removal of epicuticle and chemicalmodification of the surface arepromoting absorption of chemicals.�Increase the mechanical resistanceof fabrics�Proper antifelting properties

Results

1. Textile pre-treatment 2. Synthesis of new auxiliaries

�Low environmental impact

�Comparable costs withconventional auxiliaries (2-3 €/kg)

Results

3. Synthesis of bio-dyes

Two liquid dyestuffs (Acid Blue and Acid Red)have been produced at full scale by using thebiopilot set-up within the project. An averagethroughput of 70 kg/day of liquid dye has beenproduced. Final selling price is around 9 – 10 €/kg.The environmental impact is significantly reducedby bio-synthetic production of liquid aciddyestuffs compared to conventional ones(Cumulative Energy Demand (CED) and GlobalWarming Potential (GWP)).

25

75

358

0 50 100 150 200 250 300 350 400

Liquid Biodye

Liquid Traditional Dye

Powder Traditional Dye

CED (MJ/kg)

Liquid Biodye Liquid Traditional Dye Powder Traditional Dye

7,83E-01

3,54E+00

1,75E+01

0,00E+00 5,00E+00 1,00E+01 1,50E+01 2,00E+01

Liquid Biodye

Liquid Traditional Dye

Powder Traditional Dye

GWP (kg CO2 eq/kg)

Liquid Biodye Liquid Traditional Dye Powder Traditional Dye

Results

4. Optimization of dyeing process

Property Value Test Method

Composition WO (100%) -

Weight per m2 280 g/m

2

Tensile strength weft: 57 kg

warp: 22 kg

UNI EN ISO 13934-1

Elongation weft: 41 kg

warp: 17 kg

UNI EN ISO 13934-1

Light Fastness 3 – 4 ISO 105B02

Washing Fastness 5 ISO C06 A2S

Fastness – perspiration 4 - 5 ISO 105:B04

Property Value Test Method

Composition WO (100%) -

Weight per m2 280 g/m

2

Tensile strength weft: 57 kg

warp: 22 kg

UNI EN ISO 13934-1

Elongation weft: 41 kg

warp: 17 kg

UNI EN ISO 13934-1

Light Fastness 3 ISO 105B02

Washing Fastness 4 - 5 ISO C06 A2S

Fastness – perspiration 4 - 5 ISO 105:B04

Technical data sheet for Woollen fabric dyed with SIAB1

Technical data sheet for Woollen fabric dyed with SIAR1

Parameter

Value

Liquor

ratio

1:20

Dyestuff 1%wt.

fabric

ACHIMO

Aux1

1.5%wt.

fabric

Acetic

acid

10ml/L

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Results

5. Life Cycle Assessment and Life Cycle Cost analysis

PURGE & WASHING

PRE-TREATMENT DYEING WASHING DRYING

PURGE & WASHING

PRE-TREATMENT DYEING WASHING DRYING

WATER ENERGYRAW MATERIALS

(BASOLAN) (DYESTUFF)

WATER ENERGYRAW MATERIALS

(BIODYES)(NEW AUXILIARIES)

(PLASMA)

SYSTEM BOUNDARIES

Conventional Process

BISCOL Process

1 kgwoollen fabric

1 kgtreated fabric

0

2

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6

8

0 0,5 1 1,5 2

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�Ecological footprint, expressed as m2 of land use/year, is a resource accounting tool that measure how much nature we use�Ecological limits are central to decision-making (governments and investors)

BISCOL (green) versus Conventional processes (red)

�50% reduction of the production costs of the whole dyeing process for 1 kg of BISCOL dyed textiles�9.85 euro/kg dyes (price of dyes for textile application 1-40 euro/kg)

Role in the BISCOL project: Management, bio-dyessynthesis and characterization, LCA analysis

Role in the BISCOL project: Textile pre-treatments,characterization of textile performances andcolourisation

SME - Role in the BISCOL project: Production of eco-colorants and immobilized enzymes, scale up of thebioreactor system

SME - Role in the BISCOL project: Production ofsafer auxiliaries for the production of suitablecoloured textiles

SME - Role in the BISCOL project: Production onindustrial scale of dyes and auxiliaries, evaluation ofbio-dyes performances

SME - Role in the BISCOL project: Production ofcoloured textile by using bio-dyes and eco-dyeingprotocol definition

Partnership

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION: http://www.biscol.unisi.it

Chief Coordinator of the BISCOL project: Prof. Rebecca PogniUniversity of Siena

rebecca.pogni@unisi.it