beadwork mag june july 2011 xtra

beadworkmagazine.com©2011 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

Quick+ Easy

Q+E 3 NIGHT ON THE TOWN Julie D’Amico BeresSimple two-needle right-angle weave and netting tech-niques combine beautifully in this sophisticated bracelet

Q+E 6 FANCY FILIGREE Stephanie LaRosa Construct a focal piece of antique brass squares using easy wireworking techniques

Q+E 10 TEN OF DIAMONDS Jennifer Airs The diamonds on this bracelet take shape using an odd-count peyote-stitch technique that’s easy to learn

Q+E 12 A WHIRL OF PEARLS Debba Rofheart Circular peyote-stitched medallions become striking crystal earrings for special occasions

Q+E 16 SEASIDE SPIRAL Jenika Perry Showcase your favorite pendant on a Russian spiral rope

Q+E 28 IN THE FAST LANE Doris Coghill Work up this fabulously fast square-stitched bracelet

Q+E 32 STEPPIN’ OUT WITH THE BAND Alicia Grebe Frame a favorite cabochon with peyote stitch and display it on a freeform band of brass components

Q+E 36 LINKED UP FROM DOWN UNDER Carolyn Cave A peyote-stitched toggle clasp, gemstone beaded beads, and clever seed bead rings give this necklace its distinctive look

Q+E 40 RICKRACK BRACELET Carole Ohl Create a fun zigzag pattern by linking triangular shapes worked in peyote and herringbone stitch

Q+E 44 TUBULAR TWIST Venetia Perry This versatile peyote-stitched component made with seed beads and twisted bugles is easy to incorporate into your jewelry designs

Q+E 48 MORE TECHNIQUES

p. Q+E 12 A Whirl of Pearlsby Debba Rofheart

p. Q+E 28 In the Fast Laneby Doris Coghill

p. Q+E 10 Ten of Diamondsby Jennifer Airs

p. Q+E 32 Steppin’ Out with the Bandby Alicia Grebe

p. Q+E 6 Fancy Filigreeby Stephanie LaRosa

JUNE/JULY 2011

SUBSCRIBER BONUS PROJECT DOWNLOADS

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BEADWORK QUICK+EASY june/july 2011 Q+E 3

night on the town J u l i e D ’A m i c o - B e r e s

TECHNIQUEStwo-needle right-angle weavenetting

See pp. Q+E 48 and 94 for helpful technique information.

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Q+E 4 beadworkmagazine.com

THIS SOPHISTICATED BRACELET pairs crystals and pearls using an easy two-needle right-angle-weave technique.

MATERIALS2 g metallic gold size 15° cylinder

beads (A)15 cream 10mm crystal pearls (B)28 fuchsia 8mm crystal bicones (C)1 gold-filled 6mm soldered jump ring1 gold-filled 6×10mm lobster clasp

with 4mm soldered ringCrystal 8 lb braided beading thread

TOOLSScissors2 size 12 beading needles

FINISHED SIZE: 7¾"

1) BASE. Use two-needle right-angle-

weave techniques to work the bracelet

base, starting at the end of the clasp loop:

Clasp loop: Place one needle on each end

of 10' of thread and string the 6mm

soldered jump ring, centering it on

the thread. Using either needle, pass

through the ring again and knot the

thread. String 5A on one end and 4A

on the other. Use the second needle to

pass back through the fifth A (Fig. 1).

Unit 1: On one end, string 6A and 1B.

On the other end, string 6A; pass

back through the B just added (Fig. 2).

Units 2–15: On one end, string 1A, 1C,

1A, and 1B. On the other end, string

1A, 1C, and 1A; pass back through the

B just added (Fig. 3). Repeat thirteen

times for a total of 15 units.

Fig. 1: Attaching the clasp ring

Fig. 2: Forming the first unit

Fig. 3: Adding the second unit


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Fig. 4: Attaching the lobster clasp Fig. 5: Embellishing the pearls

Clasp: On one end, string 7A. On the

other end, string 6A; pass back

through the seventh A. *On one end,

string 4A and the ring on the lobster

clasp. Pass through the ring a second

time, then pass back through the 4A,

the 7A, and the B just added. Repeat

from * using the other thread and

working on the opposite side of the

pearl (Fig. 4).

2) EMBELLISHMENT. On one end,

string 7A. On the other end, string 6A;

pass back through the seventh A. On

each end, string 6A; cross both needles

through the next B. Repeat across all the

pearls (Fig. 5). Secure the thread and

trim. ✦

JULIE D’AMICO-BERES owned and operated a bead store for six years, but now does her beading and crafting out of her home. She travels extensively both in and out of the United States and enjoys looking for beads in exotic locales. She lives in Wisconsin with her husband and their two dogs.

RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or

contact: Delica cylinder beads, FireLine braided beading thread, and all other materials: [email protected].

editor’s tipOnce you’ve finished embellishing the

bracelet, reinforce your work by starting

a new thread through a pearl at either

end and making a second thread pass

through all the pearls and crystals.


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fancy filigree S t e p h a n i e L a R o s a

TECHNIQUEwirework


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BEADWORK QUICK+EASY june/july 2011 Q+E 7 K QUICK+EASY june/july 2011 Q+E 7

LINK ANTIQUE-STYLE BRASS components using simple wireworking techniques to create a geometric centerpiece for this lovely necklace. A series of wrapped-loop components becomes the coordinating chain.

MATERIALS31 green-and-amber 4mm fire-polished

rounds (A)5 blue Picasso 8×6mm pressed-glass

flowers (B)10 forest-green jade 8mm rounds (C)12 brass 8mm filigree rounds (D)13 brass 16mm filigree squares14 brass 4mm daisy spacers (E)11 brass 2" ball-end head pins44 brass 5mm jump rings2 brass 8mm jump rings1 brass 8×23mm hook-and-eye clasp4' of gunmetal 20-gauge craft wire

TOOLSWire cuttersRound-nose pliers2 pairs of chain- or flat-nose pliers

FINISHED SIZE: 21¼"

1) CENTERPIECE. Use jump rings to

join the filigree squares, then embellish

with decorative dangles:

Filigree: Lay out the 13 filigree squares

according to Fig. 1 and link the

open corners together using 5mm

jump rings.

Dangles: Use 1 head pin to string 1A and

1D; form a wrapped loop that attaches

to the bottom corner of the top-left

filigree square. Use 1 head pin to

string 1A and 1B (wide end first);

form a wrapped loop that connects

to the left corner of the filigree square

below the previous loop. Repeat for

a total of 6 brass round dangles and

5 flower dangles, referring to Fig.1

for placement.


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2) STRAPS. Create the necklace straps

by forming wireworked links:

Link 1: Use 4" of wire to form a wrapped

loop; string 1A, 1D, and 1A and form

a wrapped loop. Use one 8mm jump

ring to attach one end of the link to

the top-left corner of the centerpiece.


loop; string 1A, 1E, 1C, 1E, 1C, 1E,

and 1A and form a wrapped loop. Use

one 5mm jump ring to attach one end

of the link to the free end of Link 1.


loop; string 1D and 1C and form a

wrapped loop. Use one 5mm jump

ring to attach the first loop formed

to the free end of Link 2.


loop; string 1A, 1E, 1C, 1E, and 1A

and form a wrapped loop. Use one

5mm jump ring to attach one end of

the link to the free end of Link 3.


loop; string 1A, 1D, and 1A and form

a wrapped loop. Use one 5mm jump

ring to attach one end of the link to

the free end of Link 4.


loop; string 1A, 1E, 1C, 1E, and 1A

and form a wrapped loop. Use one

5mm jump ring to attach one end of

the link to the free end of Link 5.

Attach the clasp: Use one 5mm jump ring

to attach the hook half of the clasp to

the free end of Link 6.

Repeat the entire step on the right side

of the centerpiece using the other half

of the clasp. ✦

STEPHANIE LaROSA is a stay-at-home mom to a rambunctious three-year-old. She has been beading for five years and believes that anything can be turned into a piece of jewelry, whether it is a favorite photo, piece of fabric, or scrapbooking embellish-ment. Visit www.leclairrosedesigns.etsy.com.


contact: Filigree squares: MJ Beads, www.mel12.etsy.com. Filigree rounds and head pins: Artful Market, www.artfulmarket.etsy.com. Flowers: Beadslinger, www.beadslinger.etsy.com. Spacers, jump rings, clasp, similar jade rounds, and fire-polished rounds: Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Stores, (888) 739-4120, www.joann.com. Wire: Ornamentea, (919) 834-6260, www.ornamentea.com.

Fig. 1: Connecting the filigree squares and dangles


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The design for this symmetrical bracelet came about while testing the possibilities of two-needle odd-count peyote stitch. If you aren’t familiar with this easy two-needle technique, you’ll enjoy adding it to your stitch repertoire.

ten of diamonds J e n n i f e r A i r s

TECHNIQUEStwo-needle peyote stitchsquare stitchpicot


1) BRACELET. Work a repeating pattern

of two-needle odd-count peyote stitch to

make the bracelet:

Rows 1 and 2: Place one needle at each end

of 7' of thread. Note: Using both a long

and short needle makes it easier to

follow the pattern. Use the short nee-

dle to string 5A, 3B, and 5A to the

center of the thread (Fig. 1—blue thread).

Row 3: Working with 1 bead in each stitch

in this and subsequent rows, use the

long needle to peyote-stitch 2A, 1B,

1C, 1B, and 1A; string 1A (Fig. 1—red

thread). Note: In this and subsequent

figures, red thread represents the

path traveled by the long needle; blue

thread represents the short needle.

Row 4: Pass the short needle through the

1A strung at the end of Row 3; work

1A, 1B, 2C, 1B, and 1A.

Row 5: Use the short needle to work 1A,

1B, 3C, and 1B; string 1A (Fig. 2—

blue thread).

Row 6: Pass the long needle through the

1A strung at the end of Row 5; work

1B, 4C, and 1B.

3

5

1

Fig. 2: Adding Rows 4 and 5

Fig. 1: Working Rows 1–3

3

1

3

5

7

9

1

Fig. 3: Working Rows 6–10

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MATERIALS6 g gray-lined clear size 11° seed beads (A)6 g matte silver size 11° seed beads (B)2 g transparent black diamond AB size 11°

seed beads (C)2 g red-lined crystal 3.4 mm teardrops (D)1 silver 13mm shank buttonGray size D nylon beading threadThread conditioner

TOOLSSize 10 short and long beading needlesScissors

FINISHED SIZE: 7"

ARTIST’S TIPS

• Once you are comfortable with this

two-needle method, differentiating

the needles by size is not necessary.

Or, identify your threads by using

different colors of permanent

markers.

• Lay out the beads for each row in

advance.

Fig. 7: Attaching the clasp loop

Row 7: Use the long needle to work 1B

and 5C; string 1B (Fig. 3—red thread).


1B strung at the end of Row 7; work

6C.

Row 9: Use the short needle to work 3C,

1D, and 2C; string 1C (Fig. 3—

blue thread).


1C at the end of Row 9; work 6C

(Fig. 3—red thread).

1st picot: Use the long needle to string

3B; pass back through the first bead of

Row 9 and exit the end of Row 7. Pass

through the 3B just added; string 1B

(the first Row 11 bead) and square-

stitch it to the first bead of Row 9. Exit

the last bead added in Row 10 (Fig. 4).

Row 11: Use the long needle to work 5C.

2nd picot: Pass the long needle through

the end beads of Rows 10 and 9; string

3B and pass back through the last bead

of Row 9 and exit the end of Row 7.

Pass through the 3B just added; string

1B (the last Row 11 bead). Weave

through beads to exit the B just added,

away from the beadwork (Fig. 5).


1B at the end of Row 11; work 1B, 4C,

and 1B.


1B, 3C, and 1B; string 1A.


1A at the end of Row 13; work 1A, 1B,

2C, 1B, and 1A.

Row 15: Use the long needle to work 2A,

1B, 1C, 1B, and 1A; string 1A.



and 2A.


1B, and 2A; string 1A.



and 2A (Fig. 6).

Repeat Rows 3–18 nine times or until

the desired length is reached. When

working the final diamond, use 1C in

place of 1D in Row 9 and omit Row 18.

Secure the thread and trim.

2) FINISHING. Attach a button-loop

clasp to the bracelet:

Button: Use 12" of new thread to stitch

the shank of the button to the center

of the last diamond, passing through

the center C of Row 9. Repeat the

thread path to reinforce; secure the

thread and trim.

Loop: Start 12" of new thread that exits

toward the beadwork from the second

A of Row 1. String 2A, 1B, 14C, 1B,

and 2A; pass through the second-to-

last A of Row 1 (Fig. 7—blue thread). Weave through beads to the first

bead of the loop, pass through all

the loop beads again, and exit

toward the center of the beadwork

(Fig. 7—red thread). Check to make

sure the loop fits over the button

but is not too loose and add or

remove beads as needed. Repeat

the thread path at least three times

to reinforce; secure the thread and

trim. ✦

JENNIFER AIRS is addicted to beads, passionate about color, and happiest when planning a new piece of beadwork. Her first design was published in 2007. Since then about eighty other designs have been featured in numerous magazines, books, and on Bead TV. Visit www.jdjewellery.co.uk.


contact: Miyuki teardrops, Toho matte silver beads, and KO beading thread: Stitchncraft Beads, www.stitchncraft.co.uk. Other Toho seed beads: Beads Direct, www.beadsdirect.co.uk. Seed beads (U.S. source): Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www.firemountaingems.com. Toho beads (U.S. source): Artbeads.com, (866) 715-2323.

11

13

15

17

Fig. 6: Completing the first diamond

Fig. 4: Adding the first picot

Fig. 5: Forming the second picot

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a whirl of pearlsD e b b a R o f h e a r t

TECHNIQUESflat and circular square stitchcircular peyote stitchladder stitchpicot


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SURROUND RIVOLI CRYSTALS WITH A BEZEL of gold seed beads and pearls for a pair of earrings with the classic look of fine jewelry.

MATERIALS1 g silver-lined light topaz size 15º seed

beads (A)1 g bronze-lined black diamond luster size

15º seed beads (B)2 g permanent-finish gold size 11º seed

beads (C)18 cream 4mm crystal pearls2 foil-backed Montana blue 14mm crystal

rivolis1 pair of gold- or silver-plated 4mm ear

studs with ball post with loop and ear nutsSmoke 6 lb braided beading thread

TOOLSScissorsSize 12 beading needle

FINISHED SIZE: 1½"

1) BEZEL. Use circular square and

peyote stitch to encase a rivoli:

Round 1: Use 5½' of thread to string 12C,

leaving a 6" tail. Pass through all of

the beads again and exit the third C

strung (Fig. 1—blue thread).

Round 2: String 1C; pass through the

last bead exited and the C just strung.

String 2C; pass through the next C

in the previous round and the 2C just

strung. Repeat around to add a total

of 18C, alternating between 1C and

2C in each stitch (Fig. 1—red thread).

Repeat the square-stitch thread path

through the first bead added to snug

the round. Secure the tail thread

and trim.

Round 3: Repeat Round 2.

Round 4 (anchor beads and prongs): Square-

stitch 2C to the last C exited (Fig. 2—

green thread). Note: These form the

anchor beads; always push them

toward the inside of the beadwork.

This side will become the back.

Ladder-stitch 2C to the last C exited

in Round 3, with 1 bead in each stitch

(Fig. 2—blue thread). Note: These 2 beads

form 1 prong for the front of the

bezel. Weave through beads to exit 3

beads away from the last one exited

in Round 3 (Fig. 2—red thread). Repeat

around to add a total of 18 anchor

beads and 9 prongs. Exit the tip

of a prong.

Fig. 1: Forming Rounds 1 and 2

Fig. 2: Adding anchor and prong beads in Round 4

Link several components to create dazzling bracelets.


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Round 5: String 2A and pass through the

tip of the next prong; repeat around

to add a total of 18A using loose ten-

sion. Exit the tip of a prong. Place the

rivoli faceup in the beadwork and pull

the thread tight to snug the beads

(Fig. 3—purple thread). Repeat the thread

path to secure and exit the tip of

a prong.

Round 6: String 3B and pass through the

tip of the next prong; repeat around

to add a total of 9 picots. Exit through

the base of a prong; work a turn-

around to continue working clockwise

(Fig. 3—blue thread).

Round 7: String 1 pearl and pass through

the base C of the next prong; repeat

around to add a total of 9 pearls.

Exit through the first pearl added

(Fig. 3—green thread).

Round 8: String 3A and pass through the

next pearl; repeat around to add a

total of 9 picots (Fig. 3—red thread). Exit

the tip of a picot.

Round 9: Pass down through the nearest

Round 4 anchor bead. String 2A and

pass up through the next anchor bead,

the tip of the nearest Round 8 picot,

and down through the next anchor

bead; repeat around to complete the

back of the bezel and secure the

remaining Round 8 picots (Fig. 4—

blue thread). Exit from the tip of a

Round 8 picot.

Round 10 (outside picots): String 3B, pass

through the last A exited, and weave

through the nearest As and pearl to

exit the tip of the next Round 8 picot;

repeat around to add a total of 9 picots

(Fig. 4—red thread). Weave through beads

to exit an anchor bead.

2) BAIL. Create a bail to attach an ear-

ring post:

Row 1: String 5A; pass through the last

2 anchor beads exited and the first 4A

just strung (Fig. 5—green thread).

Rows 2 and 3: Work 2 rows of square stitch

3C wide with 1 bead in each stitch.

Weave through beads to exit the center

bead of Row 3 (Fig. 5—blue thread).

Loop: String 5C, the loop of 1 earring

post, and 3C; pass back through the

second C just added. String 1C;

pass through the last C exited in

Row 3 and the next C (Fig. 5—red

thread). Repeat the thread path twice

to reinforce.

Picots: String 3B; pass through Row 2.

String 3B; pass through Row 1. String

3B; pass through Row 2. String 3B;

pass through Row 3. Secure the

thread and trim. ✦

Fig. 3: Stitching Rounds 5–8

Fig. 4: Working Rounds 9 and 10 on the back

Fig. 5: Forming the bail

ARTIST’S TIPS

• To make threading your needle a

breeze, use flat-nose pliers to first

flatten one end of the thread.

• Be sure to cull any beads that your

needle doesn’t pass through easily.

• To make sure the rivoli is centered in

the bezel, check the back to make

sure the point of the crystal is in the

middle of the Round 1 circle. If it

isn’t, gently squeeze the stone and

bezel until the crystal is centered.

• Instead of making earrings, simply

use one component as a striking

pendant!

DEBBA ROFHEART is a self-taught beader, designer, and all-around craft junkie. She sells her designs under the “debbaworks” name and teaches at Naturally Jennifer’s in San Luis Obispo, California. Visit www.debbaworks.etsy.com.


contact: Toho permanent-finish gold seed beads, Swarovski rivolis and pearls, and all other materials: Naturally Jennifer’s, (805) 547-1578, www.natuallyjennifer.com.


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seaside spiralJ e n i k a P e r r y

TECHNIQUESRussian spiral-stitch variationwirework

See pp. Q + E 48 and 94 for helpful technique information.

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DISPLAY YOUR BEACH-COMBING TREASURE or favorite art bead on a classic stitched rope that’s a variation on the technique known as Russian spiral.

MATERIALS5 g gray-blue-lined clear size 15° seed

beads (A)5 g metallic-lined deep blue size 15° seed

beads (B)8 g gray AB 1.8mm cube beads (C)8 g matte metallic bronze 3.4mm drop

beads (D)2 copper 3mm rounds2 copper 4mm filigree rounds1 ceramic 24×32mm vertically drilled

starfish tab1 copper 22-gauge 2½" head pin2 copper 4×1mm spacers1 copper 6×10mm lobster clasp with ring1 copper 5×12mm figure-eightSmoke 6 lb braided beading thread

TOOLSScissorsSize 12 beading needlesFlat- or chain-nose pliersRound-nose pliers

FINISHED SIZE: 18¼"

Note: Before starting, reserve 20A and

12B and mix the rest of the A and B beads

together. Beads from the mix are referred

to in the instructions below as AB.

1) ROPE. Stitch a Russian spiral rope:

Rounds 1 and 2: Use 5' of thread to string

{2AB and 1C} three times, leaving a

10" tail. Tie the tail and working

thread together with a surgeon’s knot

and pass through the first 2AB

strung. String 1C and 2AB; skip the

nearest 1C and pass through the fol-

lowing 1AB. String 1C and 2AB; skip

the next 1AB and 1C and pass through

the following 1AB. Repeat, adding a

total of 6AB and 3C.

Rounds 3–6: String 1C and 2AB; skip the

next 1C from the previous round and

pass through the following 1AB.

Repeat until you’ve added a total of

18C to the spiral.

Round 7 and on: Continue working in the

established pattern, substituting 1D

for 1C in every fourth stitch, until the

rope is 17" long. To end the rope, con-

tinue the pattern using 1C and 2AB in

each stitch until you have added a total

of 18C. Repeat the thread path of the

last round twice to reinforce.

Fig. 1: Stitching Rounds 1 and 2


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2) FINISHING. Attach the clasp and

string the pendant:

Clasp: With your thread exiting 1C on the

final round, string 5A, 1 copper 4mm

filigree round, 3B, the figure-eight

loop, and 3B. Pass back though the

filigree round, string 5A, and go

through a bead on the opposite side

of the final round. Repeat the thread

path to reinforce (Fig. 2). Repeat on

the opposite end of the necklace,

using the lobster clasp in place of the

figure-eight.

Pendant: Use the head pin to string

1 copper 3mm round, 1 spacer, the

ceramic tab, 1 spacer, and 1 copper

3mm round. Form a wrapped loop

that attaches to 1C at the center of the

rope (Fig. 3). ✦ Fig. 2: Attaching the clasp Fig. 3: Stringing the pendant

ARTIST’S TIPS

• Be sure to check that your drop beads are facing outward

before stitching the next row over them.

• For a more subtle look, use transparent, color-lined drops. For

a more dramatic spiral, use opaque or metallic-colored drops.

• Instead of attaching the pendant to the rope, use a large-hole

lampwork bead as an interchangeable focal piece.

JENIKA PERRY is a bead hoarder and owner of Beadles Originals Beads in Logan, Utah. Her mother taught her to make her first bracelet in 2000, and she hasn’t put her beading tools down since. Jenika’s goal is to someday visit the Czech Republic and Japan to watch beads being made. Visit her website, www.beadlesoriginals.com.


contact: Seed beads and drops: Beadles Originals Beads, www.beadlesoriginals.com. Ceramic pendants, FireLine braided beading thread, and all other materials: Artbeads.com, (866) 715-2323.


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The Micro Engraver lets you add a personal touch to your jewelry. It can engrave metal, glass, wood, ceram-ics, and more. You could make custom pendants with your own engraved designs or create a personalized jewelry tag with your initials to hang on your fi nished pieces. To use the Micro Engraver, hold it like a pencil and lightly touch the button with your thumb or forefi n-ger. Then touch the tip to the item you’re engraving.

The Thread Zap II trims, burns, or melts thread to fi nish beadweaving projects in a neat and professional way. To use the Thread Zap II, press the button to warm the heated tip. Holding the button, briefl y touch the tip to the thread to melt. Let the thread cool for a few sec-onds before continuing your beading.

Both tools are priced at under $20 each, making them affordable additions to your toolbox.

To fi nd stores in your area, visit www.beadsmith.com.

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Be Inspired by Toho’s New HANDCRAFTED GILDED MARBLE BEADS Beadweavers understand the patience it takes to make something beautiful that lasts. So does Toho. They spent years studying and experimenting how to add a gilded marble fi nish to their high-quality, precision-cut beads. Gilded marble is an age-old traditional deco-rating technique in Japan, often seen on dishware or other household items. To achieve the elegant look of its new gilded marble beads, Toho overcame sev-eral challenges, including trying to use machinery to achieve this artistic effect. In the end, Toho decided that to get the best results, they needed highly skilled craftsmen to apply the gilded effect by hand. The results are amazing. These opaque beads come in nine gorgeous colors, including a rich cobalt blue patterned with gold that would be perfect for creating aquatic-inspired jewelry this summer. The round beads come in sizes 3 ,̊ 6 ,̊ 8 ,̊ and 11 .̊ Bugles in 3mm and 6mm are available. Cubes and triangles are also available. No matter what you create with these extraordinary gilded marble beads, everyone will want to take a second look.

Learn more at www.tohobeads.net.

Eliminate Beadweaving Headaches with Worry-Free WILDFIRE BEADING THREAD

If you’ve ever accidentally pierced your thread with a needle, struggled with stretchy thread, or scrubbed off the gray fi lm on your hands after beadweaving, you’ll want to try U.S.-made WildFire Beading Thread. This amazing beading thread features the strength and du-rability of DandyLine with a smooth thermally bonded coating. It’s strong, waterproof, and knots wells. It’s also zero-stretch, which means that it holds the tension well in your beadwork, and the fi nished piece will drape nicely when worn. Because WildFire does not fray at the ends, it is easy to thread on a needle and won’t be accidentally pierced while working. It’s also colorfast, so it won’t discolor your fi ngers while you work. Any beader who has spent precious beading time untan-gling beading thread will appreciate WildFire’s packag-ing: it comes on a spool with a plastic cover that keeps it neat until your next beading session. WildFire Bead-ing Thread is available in .006 and .008 sizes in green, black, and frost.

To learn more about WildFire Beading Thread, visit www.beadalon.com.To learn more about WildFire Beading Thread, visit www.beadalon.com.

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Add Sparkle to Summer Jewelry with NEW BEADS AND PENDANTSNo matter what kind of jewelry you make, you’ll love these four new beads by SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS from FusionBeads.com.

The linear facets on both sides of the Stairway bead create a chessboard effect. Its square shape and side-drilled hole makes it easy to incorporate into today’s jewelry trends.

If you love charm bracelets, take a look at the Be Charmed beads in the briolette and helix shapes. Both have a stainless steel core with a 4.5mm hole, making them ideal for stringing over ribbon, cord, herring-bone rope, or made to fi t silver large-hole chain.

The asymmetrical Organic Cosmic Triangle gives a modern look to jewelry. With its large center hole, it would make an excellent centerpiece for a faux lariat-style necklace.

Unlike most sew-on stones, the rectangular Space Cut Sew-On Stone doesn’t have a foil back, so you don’t have to worry about the wrong side accidentally show-ing when it’s worn. Try using jump rings through the holes on each end in a long necklace.

For the best selection of SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS, visit FusionBeads.com.

Have you seen this UNIQUE SHAPE SEED BEAD?Miyuki just introduced a new bead called the Long Magatama Bead (LMA). This petal-shaped bead measures 4x7mm and is cut at a slight angle with a hole near the top. (Magatama means “curved bead” in Japanese.) This large size allows more light to go through the glass, giving it additional sparkle. The Long Magatama Beads make easy fringe on necklaces, bracelets, or earrings. The beads are available in about seventy colors and thirteen fi nishes, including transpar-ent, silverlined, galvanized, glass enamel, opaque, and metallic. Depending upon the colors and fi nishes you choose, you can give your jewelry a completely differ-ent look. For example, you could choose pearl white Long Magatama Beads to create a fl ower-shaped pin for a summer wedding using circular peyote stitch. (Add green Long Magatama Beads as leaves.) Or you could use the transparent sapphire Long Magatama Beads at the ends of chandelier-style pearl earrings. Or what about simply stringing the elegant bronze Long Magatama Beads to make a multistrand textured bracelet for evening? The possibilities are endless.

Learn more at www.miyuki-beads.co.jp/english/

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Give Your Jewelry an Edge with GUNMETAL WIRE AND CLASPSGunmetal is a dark black/silver metal color that gives jewelry a modern look. It’s especially striking in night-time jewelry, as well as the popular vintage, mixed-media, and steampunk-style looks. Despite gunmetal’s growing popularity, it’s still diffi cult to fi nd high-quality gunmetal jewelry materials. Luckily, Fire Mountain Gems offers several new gunmetal supplies, including .019 Gunmetal Accu-Flex beading wire. This profession-al-quality beading wire is strong, fl exible, kink-resistant, and easy to knot and crimp. Fire Mountain Gems also offers machine-woven knitted copper wire with a black fi nish. This fi ne 3mm or 4.5mm wire creates a fl ex-ible and supple drape and can hold medium to heavy beads such as lampwork or gemstone focals. You can knot it between beads and either glue or crimp the ends. This gorgeous wire could easily become a stun-ning mixed-media necklace in under an hour by adding a handmade resin pendant, silk ribbon, and a gunmetal toggle or S-hook clasp.

To discover more gunmetal jewelry ideas, visit www.fi remountaingems.com.

Take the Next Step in Your Journey as a JEWELRY ARTISTLooking to dive into a new technique or boost the skills you already have? Interweave offers a range of digital products with over twenty-fi ve to choose from. Learn the most popular seed bead stitches from Leslie Ro-galski. Create beautiful mixed-media jewelry alongside Kristal Wick. Shape jewelry to fi t your own unique style with how-tos in metalwork, wire, and resin. Wherever you want to take your jewelry making, Interweave’s DVD collections will help you get there.

All of our watch-and-learn DVDs let you learn at your own pace, take the lessons into your own personal studio, and access design inspiration anytime you want. Skip the guesswork with up-close images and step-by-step how-tos in a convenient format you can watch again and again! Get a front-row seat to each master class with all the expert tips, techniques, and tricks that Interweave has to offer.

For more information, visit interweavestore.com/JewelryDVDs

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04072011134627

in the fast lane D o r i s C o g h i l l

TECHNIQUESsquare stitchpicot


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THIS BRACELET WORKS UP QUICKLY and looks great in a wide range of beads, colors, and finishes. For variety, work multiple strands on a single bracelet, as shown here, or stitch a stack of single strands and wear them all together. MATERIALS

20 g matte metallic dark olive green size 6° seed beads (A)

104 black iris 3mm drop beads (B)1 silver 4×23mm 3-strand claspSmoke 4 or 6 lb braided beading thread

TOOLSScissorsSize 10 beading needles

FINISHED SIZE: 7"

BRACELET. Work 2 square-stitched

strands with picots:

First strand: Center a needle on 6' of

thread and tie the ends using a sur-

geon’s knot. Pass through the end loop

on one half of the clasp and through

the thread loop to form a lark’s head

knot. Adjust the surgeon’s knot so it is

about 1" from the clasp loop (Fig. 1).

Rows 1 and 2: String 2A; pass through the

clasp loop and the first A again (Fig 2).

String 2A; pass through the next A

in the second column. String 1B; pass

through 2A in the first column (Fig. 3).

Rows 3–51: Repeat Row 2 forty-nine

times or to the desired length. Hide

the knot and a few inches of the

thread tails in the beads as you work.

Fig. 1: Knotting the thread on the clasp loop

Fig. 2: Starting the first strand

Fig. 3: Adding a square stitch and picot

ARTIST’S TIP

This bracelet looks best when the

seed beads are matte and the drop

beads are shiny, or vice versa.


04072011134822


Clasp: Line up the other clasp section to

make sure it’s in the right position for

closing. Pass through the end loop

and the next A in the second column.

String 1B and pass through the next A

in the first column. Pass through the

end and middle clasp loops and the

next A in the second column (Fig. 4).

Pass through the B just added and the

next A in the first column. String 1B

and pass through 2A in the second

column, 1B, and 2A in the first

column (Fig. 5). Do not trim the thread.

Fig. 4: Attaching the other end of the clasp Fig. 5: Adding the end picot Fig. 6: Square-stitching the end beads

ARTIST’S TIPS

• To make a single-strand bracelet,

start the strand using a soldered

jump ring or split ring on one end

and a lobster clasp with a split or

soldered jump ring on the other.

• For a wider bracelet, use a slide

clasp with more than three loops

and attach as many strands of

beadwork as you can fit.

A

Second strand: Attach a new thread to the

available clasp loop to make a second

bracelet strand.

Finishing: Using the working thread at

either end of the bracelet, pass

through the end and middle clasp

loops, the 2A in the end row closest to

each other on each strand, the middle

clasp loop, and the first A in the end

row (Fig 6—blue thread). Square-stitch

the next pair of adjoining A on each

strand (Fig. 6—red thread). Secure the

thread and trim. Repeat at the other

end of the bracelet. ✦

DORIS COGHILL left the corporate world in 2000 to pursue beading full time. She keeps busy with her website, www.beadsbydee.com, and designing and teaching her creations.


contact: All materials: Clasp: Beads by Dee, www.beadsbydee.com.


04072011134823

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http://www.miyuki-beads.co.jp/english/tila/

steppin’ out with the band A l i c i a G r e b e

TECHNIQUEStubular and flat peyote stitchwirework


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LINK AN ASSORTMENT of brass findings to create an asymmetrical bracelet band for a striking cabochon.

MATERIALS3 g matte black size 15° cylinder beads (A)3 g matte bronze size 11° cylinder beads (B)33 bronze 4mm crystal pearls2 bronze 5mm crystal pearls3 opaline alexandrite 5×4mm rondelles1 painted 30mm cabochon4 brass 2mm rounds1 antique brass 16mm dimpled ring10 antique brass-plated 6mm jump rings3½" of antique brass 9×17mm oval chain2½" of antique brass 2–3mm infinity chain1 antique brass 12×19mm 3-oval link1 antique brass-plated 15mm round toggle

clasp8 antique brass 1½" head pinsSmoke 6 lb braided beading thread

TOOLSScissorsSize 12 beading needleChain- or flat-nose pliersRound-nose pliersWire cutters

FINISHED SIZE: 7½"

1) BEZEL. Work tubular peyote to bezel

a cabochon:

Rounds 1 and 2: Use 4' of thread to string

enough B to surround the widest part

of the cabochon, leaving a 6" tail. Use

an even number of beads. Knot the

working and tail threads to form a

circle and pass through 1B after

the knot.

Round 3: Work 1B in each stitch. Step

up through the first B added in

this round.

Round 4: Work 1A in each stitch. Step up

through the first A in this round.

Round 5: Repeat Round 4.

Round 6: To form the decorative front

edge of the bezel, string 1A and pass

through the next 3A of Round 5,

Round 4, and Round 5. Repeat

around the bezel. Weave through

beads to exit any bead in Round 1

(Fig. 1–blue thread).

Rounds 7–9: Place the cabochon in the

beadwork faceup. Repeat Round 4

three times (Fig. 1–red thread). Add a

final round of A to secure the cabo-

chon, if necessary.

Connectors: Weave through beads and

exit a bead in Round 2. Working off

the beads in Round 2, form a strip of

peyote stitch 4B wide and 15 rows

long (Fig. 2).

Fig. 1: Stitching Rounds 1–9 of the bezel

ARTIST’S TIP

This easy bezel may find its

way into many of your

designs. Stitch only one of

the connecting strips, use it

as a bail, and hang the

cabochon as a pendant.

Fig. 2: Creating the peyote connector


04072011135020


Zip: Pass the strip through the brass

3-oval link, fold the strip so Rows 2

and 15 line up, and zip the beads

together to form a tube. Repeat on the

opposite edge of the cabochon, using

the dimpled ring in place of the brass

ovals. Secure the threads and trim.

Bezel embellishment: Start 2' of thread

that exits a bead in Round 2. String

1C and 1A; pass back through the 1C

and through the next bead in Round 2

(Fig. 3). Continue around the cabo-

chon. Secure the threads and trim.

2) BAND. Form the bracelet band’s

decorative embellishments:

Embellishments: Use 1 head pin to string

one 5mm pearl and form a simple

loop; repeat. Use 1 head pin to string

1A, one 4mm pearl, and 1A and form

a simple loop; repeat twice. Use 1 head

pin to string 1 rondelle; form a simple

loop. Use 1 head pin to string one

2mm round, 1 rondelle, and one

2mm round; form a simple loop.

Cut the head off the remaining head

pin and form a simple loop, then

string one 2mm round, the remain-

ing rondelle, and one 2mm round;

form a simple loop to create a link.

Set all aside.

Chain: Using wire cutters, cut the 3½"

oval-link chain into two 2-link seg-

ments. Cut the 2½" piece of infinity

chain in half.

3) ASSEMBLY. Lay out the components,

check the length, and attach the compo-

nents and clasp:

Plan: Lay out the components as shown

(Fig. 4) or as desired. Adjust the length

of the bracelet band before you con-

nect the components, allowing an

additional 1" for the clasp.

Connections: Use 1 jump ring to connect

the oval chain to the dimpled ring on

one side of the cabochon. Use 1 jump

ring to connect the infinity-chain

segment to the same component.

Attach 1 jump ring to the end of the

oval chain and connect that jump ring

and the end link of the infinity chain

with another jump ring. Attach that

jump ring to one end of the rondelle

link. Repeat on the other side of the

cabochon, omitting the rondelle link.

Finishing: Attach the pearl and rondelle

dangles to the bracelet band as shown

(Fig. 4) or as desired. Use a jump ring

to attach each end of the clasp to the

ends of the bracelet band. ✦

ALICIA GREBE lives in Waterford, Connecticut. She has been beading and creating jewelry for more than ten years. She teaches classes and sells her jewelry online at www.beadingaway.com.


contact: Cabochon: author’s collection. Delica cylinder beads, Swarovski pearls, FireLine braided beading thread, and all other materials: Artbeads.com, (866) 715-2323.

Fig. 3: Embellishing the bezel

Fig. 4: Connecting the band components

ARTIST’S TIP

Feel free to adapt the brace-

let band by choosing

whatever findings, compo-

nents, and embellishments

you have available.


04072011135036

SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS introduces –

“LOVE STORY OF THE HEART”

WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM

In partnership with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS,

India’s most celebrated design talent, Manish

Arora, has conjured up a witty, touching and

deeply romantic story on the theme of love. Love

Story of the Heart is a collection of fi ve heart

shapes in crystal; each one tracks a different stage

of love, going by the whimsical names of Crazy 4 U

Heart, Devoted 2 U Heart, Miss U Heart, Forever 1

Heart and Truly In Love Heart. Available in one color

and fi ve effects, including the exclusive and subtle

Crystal Astral Pink, they conjure warm Indian spices and

rich, fl oating saris.

The extensive SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS product assortment is updated

and enhanced twice a year with new colors and products, keeping one step ahead

of worldwide trends in fashion, style and design.

Find out more about the latest collection on the CREATE YOUR STYLE website!

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04072011151005

http://create-your-style.com/Content.Node/index.php?

linked up from down underC a r o l y n C a v e

TECHNIQUESpeyote stitchstringingwirework


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CAROLYN’S EASY BEADED BEADS resemble the “spiky ball” seedpods of the liquid amber tree outside her Australian home. In her necklace, she links them together with a clever seed bead chain. Her beads also work well as dangles for a lovely pair of earrings.

MATERIALS 10 g gold-luster peach size 15º seed

beads (A)3 g iris dark brown size 11º seed beads (B)52 brown natural snowflake jasper 6mm

rounds (C)20 gold-plated 10mm twisted jump ringsSmoke and crystal 6 lb braided beading

threads

TOOLS2 pairs of chain- or flat-nose pliersSize 10 beading needleToothpick or slim crochet hook

FINISHED SIZE: 25"

1) BEADED-BEAD LINKS. Make large

and small beaded beads and add loops to

form links:

Round 1: Use 14" of smoke thread to

string 1C and 1B; pass back through

the C, leaving a 6" tail. String 1C and

1B, then pass back through the C just

added and pull the beads up against

the previous C (Fig. 1); repeat to add a

third C/B and complete the 3C/3B

cluster. Tie the tail and working

threads using a square knot so the

beads sit in a three-leaf clover shape.

Tie another knot to secure.

Round 2: Repeat Round 1 for a second

3C/3B cluster. Again, tie the tail and

working threads using a square knot,

pulling tight so the second 3C/3B

cluster is snug against the first 3C/3B

cluster and the knot is between

Rounds 1 and 2. Tie a second knot to

secure. Adjust the working and tail

threads so they exit in opposite direc-

tions from the center.

Loops: String 1C and 7B; pass back

through the C (Fig. 2). Pull tight to

snug the loop up against the 3C/3B

cluster of Round 2. Repeat on the

other end with the tail thread. Secure

the threads and trim.

Repeat the entire step twice for a total of

3 large beaded-bead links. Repeat the

entire step four times, omitting Round 2,

for a total of 4 small beaded-bead links.

Set aside.

ARTIST’S TIPS

• Vary the size of the

beaded beads as

desired for a bolder or

subtler look.

• Dress up the piece by

using glass pearls or

crystals in place of the

stone beads.

Fig. 2: Adding the first loop

Fig. 1: Starting Round 1


04072011135037


2) SIMPLE LINKS. Use 8" of smoke

thread to string 3C and 7B; pass back

through the 3C, leaving a 6" tail. String

7B; weave through all the beads again to

reinforce. Knot the tail and working

threads together (Fig. 3). Repeat for a sec-

ond simple link. Set aside.

3) BEADED CIRCLES. Use 6" of crystal

thread to string 40A. Leaving a bead’s

width of space, knot the ends together to

form a circle. Note: This space gives the

link flexibility. Repeat the thread path

to reinforce. Secure the thread and

trim. Repeat thirty-one times for a total

of 32 circles. Set aside.

4) TOGGLE BAR. Use flat peyote stitch

to form the toggle bar:

Tube: Use 24" of smoke thread and even-

count peyote stitch to work a strip 8B

wide and 12 rows long. Fold the bead-

work so the beads of Rows 1 and 12

interlock and zip up the ends. Exit

one end of the tube. String 1C and 1B,

then pass back through the C and

through the center of the tube; repeat

to embellish the other end of the tube.

Loops: Weave through beads to exit the

fourth B from one edge. String 17A,

then pass through the next B of the

nearest row. String 17A; pass back

through the last B exited (Fig. 4).

5) ASSEMBLY. Link the necklace

together using the beaded circles:

Toggle connection: Attach 1 jump ring to

the loops of the toggle.

Looped section: Fold 1 beaded circle in

half; pass one end of the fold through

the previously added jump ring. Bring

both folded ends together and insert a

toothpick (or crochet hook) through

the two loops just made (this main-

tains the fold in the circle). Fold a sec-

ond circle in half, remove the

toothpick, and slip it through the two

loops made by the previous circle.

Bring both folded ends together and

insert the toothpick into those loops

(Fig. 5). Repeat once more for a total of

3 connected circles.

Link connection: Remove the toothpick

and use 1 jump ring to join the folded

ends of the last circle to one end of

1 simple link. Connect 1 jump ring to

the free end of the simple link (Fig. 6).

Finishing the necklace: Repeat the looped

section and link connection eight

times, alternating 1 small beaded-bead

link and 1 large beaded-bead link for

the first 6 links, then using 1 small

beaded-bead link for the seventh link

and 1 simple link for the final link.

Repeat the looped section once more.

Clasp loop: Fold 1 circle in half; pass one

end of the fold through the remaining

circle. Remove the toothpick from the

final looped section and use 1 jump

ring to join the folded ends of the last

loop to the folded ends of the first cir-

cle in this section (Fig. 7). ✦

CAROLYN CAVE has been beading for six years. She has learned the art by reading books and magazines, looking at articles of beadwork, and experimenting. Although she is a very busy person—a home-schooling mom, musician, and community-group participant—she fits beading projects into her schedule to fulfill her creative passions.


contact: Jasper, seed beads, FireLine braided beading threads, and jump rings: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www.firemountaingems.com.

Fig. 3: Creating a simple link

Fig. 4: Adding the toggle-bar loops

Fig. 5: Connecting the first two circles

Fig. 6: Joining a simple link

Fig. 7: Making the clasp loop

OPTION

To create an easy pair of earrings, follow the

instructions for making a small beaded-bead link;

but instead of making two loops on the bead,

make only one for the earring top. For the second

loop, string only one bead so the earring has a

decorative end. Finish by adding an ear wire to

the loop. Repeat for

a second earring.


04072011135052

for youmake it easygreat jewelry

Weto make

Design by Fernando Dasilva courtesy from “Modern Expressions” by North Light Books. The necklace was made using Beadalon 49 Strand White wire, Chain, and fi ndings. You can learn how to make this design at: http://www.beadalon.com/spatial_spheres_necklace.asp

Making your own jewelry is fun, easy, and very gratifying. Save money and express your style by creating your own earrings, bracelets and necklaces. Visit our website for hundreds of design ideas, step-by-step instructions, product videos, and inspirational ideas to discover how easy it is for you to make great jewelry.

www.beadalon.comTo fi nd a Beadalon retailer near you, please visit www.beadalon.com/locatewheretobuy.asp

®

Create Something Great™

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04072011110152

http://www.beadalon.com/

rickrack bracelet C a r o l e O h l

TECHNIQUESherringbone stitchcircular peyote stitch


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TRIANGULAR COMPONENTS COME TOGETHER for a rickrack-ribbon effect. Using contrasting colors or finishes accentuates the triangular connectors.

MATERIALS3 g matte metallic teal iris size 14° seed

beads (A)3 g semi-matte metallic bronze iris size 11°

seed beads (B)30 matte metallic bronze 3mm cubes (C)1 antique copper 13mm spiral toggle claspSmoke 6 lb braided beading thread

TOOLSScissorsSize 12 beading needles

FINISHED SIZE: 7"

1) TRIANGLES. Stitch triangular com-

ponents using herringbone and circular

peyote stitch:

Round 1: Use 6' of thread to string 3C,

leaving a 10" tail. Tie a knot to form a

tight circle; pass through the beads

again and exit from the first bead

strung (Fig. 1—aqua thread).

Round 2: String 2B and pass through the

next C; repeat twice to add a total of

6B. Step up through the first B added

in this round (Fig. 1—orange thread).

Round 3: String 2B, pass through the

next B of Round 2, the next C of

Round 1, and the following B of

Round 2; repeat twice to add a total of

6B. Step up through the first B added

in this round (Fig. 1—green thread).

Round 4: String 1B, pass through the next

B of Round 3, string 6A, and pass

through the following B of Round 3;

repeat twice to add a total of 3B and

18A. Step up through the first B

added in this round (Fig. 1—pink thread).

Round 5: String 2B, pass through the

next 6A of Round 4, string 2B, and

pass through the next B of Round 4;

repeat twice to add a total of 12B. Step

up through the first 2B added in this

round (Fig. 1–blue thread).

Round 6: String 6A, pass through the

next 2B of Round 5, string 2A, and

pass through the next 2B of Round 5;

repeat twice to add a total of 24A

(Fig. 1—red thread). Secure the thread, but

don’t trim. Set the component aside.

Fig. 1: Stitching Rounds 1–6

ARTIST’S TIPS

• If you want a sharper point on each

triangle, add 1A between the 2A on the

“points” in Round 6.

• If you need to add more length, add

more connector rows to each end before

adding the clasp or add another row

between each triangle. You can even add

more triangles, but there must be an

even number in order to keep the clasp

straight.


04072011135126


Repeat the entire step nine times using

2' of thread for a total of 10 triangles.

Secure and trim the thread on all of the

triangles except the first one.

2) CONNECTING THE TRIANGLES.

Weave the long thread from the first tri-

angle through beads to exit a set of 6A

from Round 6. String 6A and pass

through the set of 6A just exited; repeat

the thread path to reinforce, exiting the

6A just added. Pass through a set of 6A

of Round 6 of a second triangle and

through the 6A added in this step (Fig. 2).

Repeat the thread path to reinforce.

Weave through beads to exit from the

other side of the triangle just added. Re-

peat entire step to connect all 10 trian-

gles in a strip. Weave through beads to

exit from the set of 6A of Round 6 at the

end of the bracelet. Note: Use the bracelet

photo to help determine where each

triangle will connect. They should

form a zigzag.

3) CLASP. Stitch the clasp to the

bracelet:

Toggle ring: String 6A, pass through the

last 6A exited, and repeat the thread

path to reinforce; repeat twice to form

a tab (Fig. 3—blue thread). String 3B, pass

through the connector loop on the

ring half of the clasp, pass back

through the last B added, string 2B,

and pass through the opposite end of

the set of 6A just exited (Fig. 3—red

thread). Repeat the thread path twice

to reinforce. Secure the thread

and trim.

Toggle bar: Weave the 10" tail from the

first triangle through beads to exit

from the set of 6A of Round 6 at the

open end of the bracelet. String 6A,

pass through the 6A just exited, and

repeat the thread path to reinforce;

repeat twice to form a tab. String 7B,

pass through the connector loop on

the bar half of the clasp, pass back

through the last B added, string 3B,

pass back through the third B added,

string 2B, and pass through the oppo-

site side of 6A just exited (Fig. 4).

Repeat the thread path twice to rein-

force. Secure the threads and trim. ✦

CAROLE OHL is a graphic designer who has been beading for more than seven years. Teaching and sharing with others is what she loves best. Carole is also a Certified Zentangle Teacher. Visit www.bead-patterns.com for more of Carole’s designs and read her blog at www.openseedarts.blogspot.com.


contact: FireLine braided beading thread: Artbeads.com, (866) 715-2323. Miyuki seed beads: Charlene’s Beads, (760) 530-9436, www.cbbeads.com.

Fig. 2: Joining the triangles

Fig. 3: Attaching the toggle ring Fig. 4: Stitching the toggle bar

ARTIST’S TIPS

• It’s possible to use 4mm cubes in

this design without changing the

bead counts.

• Using similar colors for the cubes

and the size 15°s will accentuate

the color of the size 11°s. If you

want a more monochromatic look,

use a combination of matte and

shiny colors to create a subtle

contrast.

ARTIST’S TIPS


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tubular twistVe n e t i a P e r r y

TECHNIQUESpeyote stitchpicot


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THESE EASY PEYOTE-STITCHED beaded beads are quick, economical, and versatile. String them on leather cord, link them with chain, or dangle them from ear wires.

MATERIALS1 g matte bronze size 15° seed beads (A) 1 g iris bronze size 15° seed beads (B)1 g matte brown size 11° Japanese seed

beads (C)1 g opaque lime size 11° Japanese seed

beads (D)24 bronze size 2×6mm Japanese twisted

bugle beads (E)Smoke 4 lb braided beading thread

TOOLSSize 12 beading needleScissors

FINISHED SIZE: 1"

1) BASE LAYER. Work flat even-count

peyote stitch to form a beaded bead:

Rows 1 and 2: Use 3' of thread to string

2D, 1E, 2C, 1E, and 2D, leaving

a 12" tail.

Row 3: Work 1D, 1E, 1C, and 1D with

1 bead in each stitch.

Rows 4–12: Repeat Row 3 nine times

for a total of 12 rows (Fig 1).

Tube: Fold the peyote strip so the ends

meet and zip Row 1 and Row 12

together to form a tube. Weave

through beads to exit toward the

beadwork from a D adjacent to an E.

2) EMBELLISHMENT. Add a second

layer of bugles, stitch the center detail,

and finish the edges:

Bugle-bead layer: String 1E; pass through

2C in the base. String 1E; pass

through 1D on the base and through

the adjacent 1D, heading toward the

center of the tube. Repeat, adding a

total of 12D (Fig. 2). Note: To avoid skip-

ping any beads in this layer, count out

12 bugles in advance.

Center detail and edging: Weave through

beads to exit an E just added, working

toward the center of the tube. String

1B, 1D, and 1B; pass through an E

Fig. 1: Stitching the peyote base Fig. 2: Adding the second layer

ARTIST’S TIP

Don’t be afraid to experiment!

There’s no limit to the ways

you can vary the colors or

finishes when making a single

bead or a series.


04072011135143


diagonally across from where the

thread is exiting toward the tube’s

edge. String 1B, 1A, and 1B; pass

through the next E, working toward

the center of the tube. String 1B; pass

through the D just added. String

another 1B; pass through the E diago-

nally across from the E just exited,

creating an X pattern between the

bugle beads. String 1B, 1A, and 1B;

pass through the E exited at the start

of this step, working toward the center

(Fig. 3–blue thread). Pass through the

next B, D, B, and E. String 1B, 1A,

and 1B; pass through the next E.

String 1B, 1D, and 1B; pass back

through the E diagonally across from

where the thread is exiting. String 1B,

1A, and 1B; pass through the next E,

working toward the center of the tube.

String 1B; pass through the D just

added. String another 1B; pass

through the E diagonally across from

the E just exited. Pass through the B,

on the first picot in this round. String

1A and pass through the tip of the next

picot; repeat twice. (Add 2A if you plan

to string the beaded bead on leather or a

thick cord.) Use the tail thread to repeat

this step on the opposite end of the

beaded bead. Secure the threads and

trim. ✦

VENETIA PERRY uses bead therapy to unwind from her busy health-care job. See more of her work at www.jdnative.etsy.com.


contact: Bugle beads: Fox Den Designs, (262) 634-2323, www.foxdendesigns.com. Leather lace: Tandy Leather Factory, (817) 872-3200, www.tandyleatherfactory.com. Copper chain and spacer beads: LLB Findings and Chain, www.llbfindings.com. Seed beads and FireLine braided beading thread: Shipwreck Beads, (800) 950-4232, www.shipwreckbeads.com.

Fig. 3: Embellishing the tube

Fig. 4: Finishing the edges with picots

A, and B along the edge and the E

(Fig. 3–red thread). Continue around the

tube, forming 6 Xs around the tube’s

center and adding 15°s around the

bugle edges.

3) FINISHING. Complete the beaded

bead with a final round of picot edging:

Weave through beads to exit a D along

the edge of the base layer. String 1B, 1A,

and 1B, then pass through the adjacent

D and exit through the next D (Fig. 4);

repeat twice. Weave through the B and A


04072011135143

DISCOVER unique techniques for beautiful beaded bracelets. Kristal Wick takes you on a trip into her studio to learn mixed media jewelry like never before:

Create your own fun fabric focals

Set crystals in exciting epoxy clay

Be inspired by all the things you can use with resin

Embellish almost anything with colorful crystals

Design wonderful wire wrapped coil charms

TURN ORDINARY MATERIALSINTO EXTRAORDINARY DESIGNS

fabulous fabric. glamorous glitter.

WATCH A PREVIEW AT InterweaveStore.com/BeadedBraceletsDVD

with this must-have, easy-to-follow jewelry resource you’ll use again and again!

Get Started Today

W O R K S H O P

with Kristal Wick

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more techniques

These basic instructions are for techniques used in this issue’s projects and are from The Beader’s Companion (Interweave, 2005). Don’t have this popular book? Call (800) 272-2193 or visit interweavestore.com.

C R I M P I N G

String a crimp tube and pass through the connec-tion finding. Pass back through the tube, leaving a short tail. Use the back notch of a pair of crimping pliers to pinch the tube into a U, leaving a wire on each side of the bend. Rotate the tube 90° and use the front notch to form the pinched tube into a clean cylinder.

F I N I S H I N G A N D S TA R T I N G N E W T H R E A D S

Tie off your old thread when it’s about 4" long by making a simple knot between beads. Pass through a few beads and pull tight to hide the knot. Weave through a few more beads and trim the thread close to the work. Start the new thread by tying a knot between beads and weaving through a few beads. Pull tight to hide the knot. Weave through several beads until you reach the place to resume beading.

G L U I N G

Place a sparing amount of glue on knots to secure them (we recommend G-S Hypo Cement or clear nail polish) or use enough glue to completely secure beads to a surface (E6000, Terrifically Tacky Tape). Allow any glue to dry thoroughly before continuing. Seal large glue-beaded surfaces with Mod Podge.

H A L F - H I TC H K N OT

Half-hitch knots may be worked with two or more strands—one strand is knotted over one or more other strands. Form a loop around the cord(s), pull the end through the loop just formed, and pull tight. Repeat for the length of cord you want to cover.

O V E R H A N D K N OT

The overhand knot is the basic knot for tying off thread. Make a loop with the stringing material. Pass the cord that lies behind the loop over the front cord and through the loop. Pull tight.

S Q U A R E K N OT

The square knot is the classic sturdy knot for securing most stringing materials. First make an overhand knot, passing the right end over the left end. Next, make another overhand knot, this time passing the left end over the right end. Pull tight.

S U R G E O N ’ S K N OT

The surgeon’s knot is very secure and therefore good for finishing off most stringing materials. Tie an overhand knot, right over left, but instead of one twist over the left cord, make at least two. Tie another overhand knot, left over right, and pull tight.

T E N S I O N B E A D

A tension bead (or stopper bead) holds your work in place. To make one, string a bead larger than those you are working with, then pass through the bead one or more times, making sure not to split the thread. The bead will be able to slide along but will still provide tension to work against when beading the first two rows.

W I R E W O R K I N G

To form a simple loop, use flat-nose pli-ers to make a 90° bend at least ½" from the end of the wire. Use round-nose pli-ers to grasp the wire at the tip; roll the pli-ers toward the bend, but not past it, to preserve the 90° bend. Adjust the pliers as

needed to continue the wrap around the nose of the pliers. Trim the wire next to the bend. Open a sim-ple loop just as you would a jump ring (see below).

To form a wrapped loop, begin with a 90° bend at least 2" from the end of the wire. Use round-nose pliers to form a simple loop with a tail over-lapping the bend. Wrap the tail tightly down the neck of the wire two or three times. Trim the excess wire to finish. Make a thicker, heavier-looking wrapped loop by wrapping the wire back up over the coils, toward the loop, and trimming at the loop.

To open a jump ring, grasp each side of its open-ing with a pair of pliers. Don’t pull apart. Instead, twist in opposite directions so that you can open and close without distorting the shape.

Wrapped-loop bails turn side-drilled beads, usually teardrops, into pendants. Center the bead on a 3” or longer piece of wire. Bend both ends of the wire up the sides and across the top of the bead.

Bend one end straight up at the center of the bead, then wrap the other wire around it two or three times. Form a wrapped loop with the straight-up wire, wrapping it back down over the already formed coils. Trim the excess wire.

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beadwork mag june july 2011 xtra

Documents

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