baselworld daily news

EDITORIAL

HIGHLIGHTS

The new era of BASELWORLD has brought so many changes. I hope that you, as a visitor or exhibitor, were able to draw maximum profit from this exceptional new ambi-ance and have had a successful time to date. I trust that you had the chance to engage in a number of interesting discussions, concluded good business deals and were inspired by the exceptional design of the new hall and stands.

The new hall complex gave us the chance to reinvent BASEL-WORLD. Thanks to the new exhibi-tion site, the special features, for which the show is well known and appreciated, such as the direct con-tact, the direct dialogue and the experience inside the halls, took place in the most best surround-ings, meeting the wishes of exhibi-tors and visitors alike.

I would like to wish you every success and satisfaction for the con-cluding phase of BASELWORLD 2013. And I am already looking for-ward to being able to welcome you to Basel again next spring.

01.WEDNESDAY, MAY

02 A VERY GOOD YEAR Hublot’s CEO Ricardo Guadalupe tells of another

great year for the brand.

04 TANTALISED BY TIME Boucheron, Chopard,

Blancpain and the like present a dazzling array of majestic jewellery watches.

10 TECHNOLOGY OF TIME

Pierre Gygax, Executive Vice President of Ulysse Nardin, talks about grand complica-tion timepieces.

50 BEAUTY MEETS FUNCTIONALITY

The Gavello collections combine universally recognised symbols with ergonomic forms.

72 HOME SWEET HOME Expensive watches and jewellery deserve to be suitably housed: an insight

into high-end cases and packaging.

76 GEMALICIOUS A cornucopia of the most

stunning pieces is offered here at BASELWORLD.

2013 IS A YEAR OF INNOVATIONS FOR TISSOTInterview by William George Shuster

François Thiébaud, President of Tissot, talks about the brand’s innovations and why BASEL-

WORLD 2013 has “lots to celebrate.”

BWDN: Mr. Thiébaud, how was 2012; what’s expected in 2013?François Thiébaud: The Swiss watch industry set records in 2012, with exports reaching 21.4 billion Swiss francs. Swatch Group, of which we are a part, strongly contributed to that.

For Tissot, 2012 was a great year, with another record increase. It is one of the top five Swiss brands in

terms of value and number two in volume, with several million pieces sold in 2012. In 2013, we’ll reach for new heights.

Innovation is in Tissot’s DNA. So, what’s new?2013, our 160th anniversary, is a technically innovative year for Tis-sot. Our elegant Tissot Luxury watch has the new, revolutionary Power-matic 80 movement, the first equipped with 80 hours of power reserve versus 42 hours for compet-ing movements. It uses less energy, has high-tech synthetic material in

its escapement for less friction, and a new balance, innovatively regulated, for more precision. The new 2825 movement in our Tissot Couturier Small Second watch lets designers create fresh, stylish looks. We embrace tradition in the beautiful Tissot Skeleton movement in the Tis-sot T-Complication Squelette, with a see-through dial. Furthermore, Tis-sot advances its tactile technology with the Tissot T-Touch Solar for women and men, the first-ever touch screen solar watch. For our anniver-sary, we recreated 1953’s Tissot Nav-igator, which had ground-breaking

time-zone technology, in our new Tissot Heritage Navigator. It repre-sents the new horizons Tissot has always explored.

What does BASELWORLD mean to Tissot?It’s very important. We share the ideas and work for our products with people as passionate about watches and our brand as we are. Exhibiting with colleagues gener-ates new ideas and creativity, and we convey what Tissot stands for.

BASELWORLD 2013 is more important than ever. We celebrate

“AN UNFORGETTABLE BASELWORLD!”

A SHOW WITH CHARISMABASELWORLD 2013 HAS MOVED SUCCESSFULLY IN A NEW DIMENSIONby Axel Henselder

BASELWORLD 2013 has set new standards for trade shows, as was the aim of René Kamm, CEO of the MCH Group.

The architectural masterpiece by Herzog & de Meuron impressed exhibitors and visitors alike. The spectacular stand structures and great atmosphere among partici-pants helped create the show’s unique feel. “Our expectations have been more than exceeded,” says Sylvie Ritter, Managing Director of BASELWORLD. She continues: “We

have set yet another milestone in the history of BASELWORLD”. “Vis-itor figures are higher than last year,” Thierry Stern, President of Patek Philippe, confirms. “A lot of people appreciated the new layout. We had a great success.” “I am delighted by this 2013 show”, Marc A. Hayek, President and CEO of Breguet, Blancpain and Jaquet Droz, shares. “BASELWORLD 2013 was a great success for Rolex. The new stand evidently made a strong impression”, according to Rolex’s CEO Gian Riccardo Marini. Jean-

The stunning new stand architecture in Hall 1 astonishes the visitors.

François Thiébaud, President of Tissot.

Sylvie Ritter Managing Director

our 160th anniversary here, along-side our younger sister brand Swatch, which is celebrating its 30th anniversary, and have a brand new stand in an entirely new setting.

Frédéric Dufour, CEO of Zenith, approves: “It was a great chance for us to show the new face of the brand within a new stand. It was good start.” Michele Sofisti, CEO of Sowind Group, emphasizes: “BASELWORLD is the most impor-tant watch show in the world.” Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard, adds: “In 2013, the show turned out to be a very good edition. For the industry, BASEL-WORLD is the rendezvous of the year, even more so after the exten-sive renovations.” Luc Perramond, CEO of Montres Hermès also thinks: “I am very happy with the results.” The same goes for Rado, whose CEO Matthias Breschan says: “It has been a very positive show for Rado!” The jewellery icon Stephen Webster is likewise impressed with the new BASEL-WORLD: “The show so far has been full on and very hectic, just what we hoped for.”

02 WATCHESWEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013

MANY IN-HOUSE PROJECTS IN THE WORKSHUBLOT COMBINES EXPERTISE IN HIGH WATCHMAKING AND JEWELLERYby Carol Besler

Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot, tells BWDN the highlights of anoth-er great year for the Nyon-based Swiss

watch manufacturer.

BWDN: What are the highlights of Hublot’s introductions this year at the show? Do we see something equivalent to the 5 million dollar diamond-encrusted Big Bang you debuted last year?Ricardo Guadalupe: This year we will be introducing a new high jew-

ellery timepiece, the 1 million dol-lar Classic Fusion Skeleton Tourbil-lon, in which the movement will be set with baguette diamonds.

Hublot now produces its own chronograph movement, the Uni-co, and specialty movements. Will there be any new movements introduced this year? Yes, we will be introducing a unique movement for our Masterpiece col-lection, created in partnership with Ferrari and entirely developed and produced in-house.

In addition, we will also be coming out soon with a movement linked to the Antikythera project, including a dedicated timepiece that will be available for purchase. (Editor’s note: The Antikythera is a complex gear mechanism recovered in 1901 in the Greek sea from the Antiky-thera wreck. It is the world’s first-known gear train, which previously was believed not to have been invented until the 14th century, when mechanical astronomical clocks began to be built in Western Europe. Hublot is creating a minia-

Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot.

01 WATCHES

02 Hublot / Harry Winston04 Jewellery Watches / Bulgari09 Dior / Hamilton 10 Ulysse Nardin / Anniversaries at BASELWORLD15 Trends for China: Chopard / Bulgari16 Corum / RJ-Romain Jerome21 Italian Style / Eberhard & Co / Frédérique Constant 22 Tourbillons / Jacob & Co. 26 Quality Seals / Aviator / Glycine 29 Mother-of-Pearl / Swiss Time 30 Rose Gold / Clerc 32 Vintage / Tendence 34 Craftsmanship / Seiko 37 Sceletonised Watches / Balco38 Titanium / TF Est. 1968 Meistersinger /40 Hautlence / Rebellion / Gustafsson & Sjögren

02 MARKETS

42 China45 Pearl Marketing 46 Shopping behaviour of tourists

03 JEWELLERY

49 Rebecca / Versace50 Davite & Delucchi / Gavello52 de Grisogono / Pippo Perez55 Zancan / Blue White Group56 K di Kuore / News58 Nomades / Zydo62 Barakà / Yoko by Euro Pearls64 Bruno Mayer / Schreiner67 Trend Jewellery for Men

04 INNOVATIONS

71 Review / Greiner / Castaldo72 Packages / Bullnheimer / Dialumen

05 GEMSTONES

75 Comments / Rosy Blue76 Potpourri of Gems81 Carvings

06 WORLD OF BASEL

82 Eleanor Cardozo / BASEL- WORLD Village / Carlos Fuente jun. / DJ Antoine / Luminox 84 Cocktail Alfex / New Books / Carrera y Carrera / Max Chilton

07 SERVICE

86 Floor Plan / General Information / Imprint

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CONTENTS

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OPUS XIII: HARRY WINSTON AGAIN PRESENTS ASTONISHING NEW TIME DISPLAYS by Iris Wimmer-Olbort

Watch experts eagerly anticipate the annual unveiling of the latest

addition to Harry Winston’s Opus series. The brand presents a watch in this line for the 13th consecu-tive year in 2013. Each debutante is the talk of the town, either because it displays the time in a totally new way or because it encases a movement with an

TIME FOR ASTONISHMENT

1.1, D51

ture replica of the mechanism, which will be auctioned with mon-ey raised for the Archeological Museum of Athens.)

In 2012, the value of watch exports rose to 21.4 billion francs. This represents an increase of 2.1 bil-lion francs, or 10.9 percent. What kind of year will 2013 be for Swiss watches?I think 2013 will be the year of con-solidation, with growth of roughly 5 percent. The watch industry is fac-ing a challenge now due to the decline in sales in China.

Hublot is making its own cases, inventing special “fusion” metals, such as magnesium and alumi-num. Is there a new case material coming out this year? Recently, we have focused on the production of carbon fiber, ceram-ic, and of course the revolutionary Magic Gold (the very first scratch-resistant 18K gold), which is creat-ed entirely in-house. Our strategy has always been to focus on research and development. We cur-rently have many projects in the works but nothing that is ready to be unveiled at this year’s BASEL-WORLD.

unprecedented construction. The Opus XIII focuses on the time dis-play, for which the watchmaker Ludovic Ballouard conceived a unique system. Each hour is sequentially shown by a triangle that emerges from beneath a fac-eted dome. It remains in sight for an hour and then disappears when the next triangle appears. The minutes are indicated along the

dial’s periphery by diagonally ori-ented hands that gradually rise into a vertical orientation corre-sponding to the passage of the minutes. They return to their diag-onal position after a full hour has passed, when the action resumes from the beginning. It takes a bit of practice to read the time, but the aesthetics and originality are totally convincing.

Harry Winston Opus XIII.

“Our strategy has always been to

focus on research and development.”

Hublot Antikythera SunMoon.

1.0, A05

Get in touch at www.tissot.ch

TissoT Luxury AuTomATicLAdy diAmonds

chosen by Deepika Padukone – ActressAn exceptional and timeless piece with top Wesselton diamonds,

offering 80 hours of power reserve with a revolutionary COSC certified Powermatic 80 movement, in a 316L stainless

steel casing with see-through caseback and water resistance up to 5 bar (50 m / 165 ft).

in TOUCH wiTH yOUr Time


JEWELS THAT TELL TIMEAMAZING JEWELLERY WATCHES DEBUTING AT BASELWORLD

CHAINED – BULGARI KNOWS WHAT WOMEN LOVE

TAG HEUER IS SURPRISING AGAIN WITH EVEN MORE REVOLUTIONARY CONCEPTS

by Nina Hald

by Iris Wimmer-Olbort


Time is hypnotic, and as such a pretext for the creation of incredible timepieces. Like mys-teries and fantasies,

time calls to our inclinations and passions for embellishments – and in order to bring those into life, technical skills and mastery of crea-tivity imposes order on an other-wise chaotic world. Jewellery watches are timepieces meant to capture the interest and entrance the desire of collectors; free-styling over a signature style or motif of a company, which allows us to appre-ciate the time that has gone in to the making of the small mechanical miracles. From the goldsmith to the lapidary, from the watchmaker to the engraver, the chain of craftsmen are linked by excellence – all work-ing together in a joint effort, striving for the best of the business. This year, a common theme appears to be regal empires and majestic ani-mals.

Boucheron Ajourée Peacock jewellery composition is all about three-dimensionality, paved with shades of blue sapphires; a most regal animal, that would wander the old patrician gardens of Rome. The feathers are composed by a fan of ocellis paved with diamonds and blue sapphires, embellished by half-moon chalcedonies and pear-shaped sapphires. The dial is set with pink mother-of-pearl, and the strap is silver brushed satin with a pin buckle made of 18K white gold.

This year’s Imperiale Joaillerie edition from Chopard is a mantle of light for a finely crafted movement, set with amethysts. And thus once again, the company combines haute joaillerie with precision mechanics

Anna Magnani was a celebrat-ed film star in Italy – and a style icon. Among her unmis-

takable looks was her habit of wind-ing massive golden Bulgari neck-laces several times around her wrist. Like her colleagues Elizabeth Taylor and Grace Kelly, she was a fan of Bulgari’s Gourmette chains with curved and smooth links. This has inspired Bulgari’s designers to cre-ate the Catene, a new wristwatch in pink gold. The golden case of this quartz watch is attached to a mas-sive and heavy chain, beside which a second chain winds around its wearer’s wrist. Both chains end in a convenient folding clasp. The eye-catcher is the feminine dial: it’s made of mother-of-pearl and has 12 brilliant-cut diamonds to mark the

A double tourbillon without a conventional balance: TAG Heuer’s haute horlogerie

workshop unveils another in its series of spectacular developments. A balance without a hairspring debuted in 2010 in the Pendulum concept watch, which had the world’s first escapement with magnets rath-er than a traditional hairspring. Now this avant-garde technology, in which the oscillations of the balance-wheel are driven by magnetic fields, has been evolved for commercial use and a tourbillon. With the Carrera MikroPendulum 100th-of-a-Second Chronograph TAG Heuer’s collection now includes a watch that relies on a conventional self-winding move-

ITALIAN CHIC IN GOLDMAGNETIC – THE FUTURE OF WATCHMAKING?

to create a precious aesthetic; a watch graced with pure lines bear-ing elegant testimony to Chopard’s impressive range of in-house capa-bilities. Graded shades of baguette-cut amethysts and diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds illuminates the Imperiale Joaillerie Améthyste’s performance, with a mechanical self-winding movement entirely developed and manufactured in-house of the Fleurier Ebauches workshops. The mother-of-pearl dial is adorned with amethyst hour-markers and the classic scrolling pattern form a delicate background. The lugs are inspired by the col-umns of classical architecture; and

with a the crown shaped like a lotus-flower, the details echoe the heritage of grand historical empires with a dark purple leather-strap with an 18 carat white gold pin buckle set with brilliant-cut dia-monds.

WATCHMAKING AND JEWEL-LERY EXCELLENCEEstablished in 1735, Blancpain is the oldest watch manufacture in the world, renowned as much for its superlative watches, all created in-house, as for its calibres – and the new Chronographe Grande Date is no exception to this tradition. The shimmering mother-of-pearl dial

Boucheron Ajourée Peacock.

TAG Heuer Carrera MikroPendulumS.

Chopard Imperiale.

reveals two waves of 17 variously-sized dia-monds (a total of 0.13 carats) rippling out from the centre. At 12 o’clock, the offset hour and minute dis-play with Roman numerals on a moth-er-of-pearl dial creates a dynamic counterpoint to the Arabic numerals on the chronograph counters. Twin apertures at 6 o’clock frame the double-disc large date display. The red gold case with diamond-set bez-el contains the Blancpain 26F8G calibre with 40-hour power reserve

1.0, A011.0, D01

hours. The pink gold crown, adorned with a pink rubellite, further dem-onstrates how much love for details went into the styling of this new jewellery watch.

ment for its time display, but uses the Pendulum concept for its chrono-graph, thus making this the first-ever magnet-driven 100th-of-a-second chronograph. A frequency of 360,000 beats per hour (50 Hz) enables the chronograph to measure elapsed intervals to the nearest 100th of a second. Likewise sensational is the world’s first magnetic double tourbil-lon. The watch has two magnetic Pendulums to replace the hair-springs: one for telling time and one for timekeeping. The first oscillates at a frequency of 12 Hz, while the Pendulum for the chronograph is paced at 50 Hz. The chronograph tourbillon, the world’s fastest, rotates 12 times per minute.

Bulgari Catene.

and its petal-shaped oscillating weight, visible through the sapphire crystal back.

Famous jewellery House Boucheron showcases stunning jewellery watches in Hall 1.1.

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EXE PL 30 x 40 Homme 2013_Page DAILY NEWS.indd 1 11/04/2013 15:32:33

09WATCHESWEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013

STRONG DOUBLE-DIGIT GROWTH

A PRECIOUS DAY WITH DIOR TIMEPIECES

HAMILTON IS ENHANCING ITS POSITION WORLDWIDE

FRENCH HAUTE COUTURE BRAND DEMONSTRATES HIGH WATCHMAKING EXPERTISE

Interview by William G. Shuster

Interview by Kyra Brenzinger

Sylvain Dolla, Hamilton International CEO, tells BWDN about two exclu-sive movements and debuts based on its watch-

making heritage.

Like a young lady preparing for a magnificent ball, Dior presents its new watches to

suit special moments of the day – the choice of watch becomes a wardrobe

decision. From the Mini D to the incredible D de Dior Précieuse, the fashion house proves that beyond haute couture, it has mastered the craft of watchmaking.

For the morn-ing, D de Dior has invigorating

summer col-ours. Inspired by the 1970s, and comforta-

bly feminine, this 19 mm model

is enhanced by the fluorescent shades favoured by Victoire de Castellane. Her iconic colours are evident on

BWDN: Mr. Dolla, how was 2012, and what do you see for 2013? Sylvain Dolla: Hamilton enjoyed a very strong double-digit growth in 2012, continuing the success of the last seven years, and we expect that

in 2013, too. Our products and market-ing reinforce our posi-tion in mature markets like Japan, Italy or the U.S., and in young dynamic ones like China and South Korea.

The goal for 2013 is to reinforce our leadership in mechan-ical watches between 500-2,000 CHF and open new corporate stores in key locations, as we did in 2012 in Interlaken (Switzerland) and Chongqing (China).

Tell us more about your Asian busi-ness. Japan, China and South Korea are among our top markets. Thanks to a wide range of products and strong brand identity, Hamilton has man-aged to create watches for the tastes of Asian consumers. While Asia is a really dynamic market, countries like U.S. and Italy are also

top markets for Hamil-ton. So, our situation is

very healthy, because our dynamic growth isn’t based on one region.

Hamilton is known for drawing on its watchmak-ing heritage. What’s new for

2013? The Khaki Navy Sub Auto and Auto Chrono are inspired by Hamilton’s iconic Piping Rock (1928), which embodied its classic American style.

Its round dial in a tonneau case, with intriguing open corners, was known as the ‘Yan-kee watch’. Today’s interpretation mod-ernizes its unique shape, while expressing Hamil-ton’s ‘American Spirit’. The new Khaki Pilot Pioneer Auto Chrono is based on a chrono-

graph for the British Royal Air Force developed by Hamilton in the 1970s. Its numbers are bold for fast read-

Hamilton Jazzmaster Viewmatic Skeleton.

1.1, B39

WATCH TO WATCH

Movement quartz

Functions hour, minute, second, date

Case material stainless steel/PVD

Case dimensions 39 mm

Special features water resistance 100 metres, dial

with star decor, rose gold PVD plated bezel

Place to watch: 1.0, C35

Raymond WeilTango

the patent-leather wristlet: fluores-cent yellow, pink or orange. To keep it chic, de Castellane has decorated the bezel in sumptuous diamonds, with the dial in black mother-of-pearl. The creative audacity evident in these materials and colours is matched with Swiss watchmaking skills: some of the watches are fitted with the Elite mechanical movement manufactured by Zenith.

For daytime, a new Dior VIII model with a diamond and mother-of-pearl bezel furthers, in the case of the white ceramic model, the glossy look of the dial. In the 38 mm ver-sion, the dial is set with a circle of pink sapphires or brightly-coloured Paraiba tourmalines. In the 33 mm model, the rose gold bezel contrasts with the very distinguished white or black polished ceramic. Black and white are the two original colours of the tailor Bar, who inspired the Dior VIII watch. The permanence of black echoes Christian Dior’s remarks: “It can be worn for any occasion and at any age” and “white is pure, simple, and goes with everything.”

TIME FOR COCKTAILSFor the cocktail hour, Dior offers two wardrobes, or new watch models. The Dior VIII Baguette watch comes in two versions, one with sapphires on white ceramic, the other with rubies and sapphires on black ceramic. Through the delicate grad-uation of the colour in the stones, the Dior VIII watch also evokes the Dior pleat, and the bezels set with baguette-cut precious stones become a pleated ribbon. On the back of the watch, the oscillating weight in white mother-of-pearl reveals a sub-tle motif of a pleated sun, hand-painted by a miniaturist in the same hues as the bezel stones.

For evening wear, there are opu-lent horological riches, just as extraordinary dresses are brought

out for the occasion. The Dior VIII Grand Bal, lavishly ornate, is deco-rated with delicate flounces or embroidered-silk evening dresses inlaid with lace, like the dresses cre-ated by Dior in the 1950s. The poeti-cal metaphor is even apparent in the exclusive high calibre of Dior Inversé, whose patented oscillating presents itself in all its finery by swinging on top of the dial. Dressed in feathers or openwork gold, the mass twirls like petticoats and con-jures up the sumptuous dresses of the studios on Avenue Montaigne.

At night, three new models of the D de Dior Précieuse stage a riot of colour with dials in pink opal, green jade and turquoise. The stones har-monise perfectly with the bezels and diamond-studded crowns.

ing of the time, while sandblasted elements on the case – true to pio-neering aviation design – prevent distracting reflected sunlight.

What are other big debuts for Hamilton?Lead roles in 2013’s innovative line-up go to Hamilton’s new H-20-S Skeleton and H-12 Regulator. Both are exclusive automatic move-ments, based on ETA, which allow unique design. The skeletonised dial of the Jazzmaster Viewmatic Skeleton shows the H-20-S’s deco-rative elements as part of the dial design. The Jazzmaster Regula-teur’s unique display of hours at ‘10’ and seconds at ‘5’, leaves the centre position for minutes. That was once used in watchmaker ateliers as an easy way to read minutes and set watches they worked on.

What does BASELWORLD do for Hamilton? As the world’s biggest watch show, BASELWORLD is a great opportuni-ty to meet retailers, journalists, even watch lovers; show what we have been working on, and get their feed-back. It also lets us meet new busi-ness partners, develop our network, discover our competitors’ novelties and see how challenging the future will be. And this year, we proudly welcome visitors to a brand new, much-bigger stand!

D de Dior Précieuse Jade.

Dior displays precious watches for every time of the day.

“As the world’s biggest watch show, BASEL-

WORLD is a great opportunity to meet retailers,

journalists, even watch lovers.”

Sylvain Dolla, Hamilton International CEO.

1.1, A25


STRANGER THAN FICTIONULYSSE NARDIN SAILS ALONG PREDETERMINED COURSE

THE ANNIVERSARY OF A BRAND’S FOUNDING OR THE BIRTHDAY OF A CLASSIC COLLECTION: JUBILEES AT BASELWORLD

Interview by Elizabeth Doerr


Pierre Gygax, Executive Vice President of Ulysse Nardin, talks new tech-nology and music boxes for the wrist.

BWDN: What would you say has been the direction of Ulysse Nar-

Looking back with joy and pride, the anniversary of a special event deserves to be

celebrated. Anniversaries also inspire many watch brands to cre-ate special models.

The watchmaker Pierre Jaquet Droz set up his first atelier in La Chaux-de-Fonds 275 years ago and began a grand success story. By the

TIME TO CELEBRATE

din since Rolf Schnyder and his friends bought the company back in 1983? Pierre Gygax: Rolf gave Ulysse Nar-din its reputation back. He rebuilt the brand image around the world. He put pieces on the market that were not made by any other manu-

facturer and gave the brand its mag-nificence back, including Ludwig Oechslin’s GMT, the Trilogy of Time (including the Astrolabium, Telluri-um and Planetarium), the Perpetual as well as the Hourstriker and San Marco minute repeaters. The San Marco Chronometer with its mar-

Roamer Stingray Chrono Diver.

vellous blue dial by Donzé Cadrans and the Marine Chronometer also belong to this group of brilliant products that Rolf selected at the idea stage and developed, putting Ulysse Nardin back on track. He was a visionary in this respect.

The early components were, by necessity, mainly sourced. How did this change after you were hired in 1997 as the company’s “industrial manager”?I had the task to internalise step by step all technologies, skills, produc-tion capacities, quality manage-ment, and so on needed to ensure the long-term life and development of Ulysse Nardin. This part having been entrusted to me, Rolf was able to work with Patrik [Hoffmann, the current CEO] on the market side, which included distribution, mar-keting and subsidiaries.

How did Ulysse Nardin get so highly involved in the world of new materials?

WATCH TO WATCH

Movement modified ETA/Valjoux 7750,

automatic Functions

hour, minute, seconds, chronograph, date

Case material Powerlite (an alloy of aluminium,

magnesium, titan, zirconium, ceramic)


Special features water-resistant to 200 metres,

sun-brushed dial, screwed crown Place to watch: 1.1, E63

Maurice LacroixPontos S Extreme

late 18th century, he was renowned throughout Europe and as far away as China for his mechanical autom-ata, music boxes, singing birds and horological complications. This leg-acy lives on at the Jaquet Droz brand (1.0, C25), which celebrates its 275th anniversary at BASEL-WORLD with new and impressive aesthetic creations that combined

the watchmaker’s com-petence and skilful craftsmanship.

The Grande Heure GMT pays tribute to Pierre Jaquet Droz’s many travels with clean lines, a classic design and precious material. This latest model, fea-turing perfect legibility for two time zones, flawlessly meets the demands of the modern and stylish globe trotter. It offers a simple, pre-cise way to read the time in two time zones. The 24 indexes in Ara-

bic numerals set around a Grand Feu enamel dial make it easy to see all the hours of the day in two cities. The red hand indicates local time, while the blued hand shows the time at the destination. When the two hands come together in the same time zone they merge into a single, bicoloured indication of the exact time

The watchmaking history of Roamer (1.2, C01) of Switzerland began in Solothurn 125 years ago in 1888, when the Swiss industrialist Fritz Meyer founded a workshop to fabricate robust, yet elegant, pocket-watches. The brand name “Roam-er” was established in 1908 after Meyer had formed a partnership with the watchmaker Johann Stüdeli. The two partners initially specialised in the manufacture of highly precise mechanical move-ments and later enjoyed great suc-cess with the production of com-plete watches. This is recalled today in the anniversary collection with a limited new edition of the Stingray Chrono Diver.

Chopard (1.0, D15) and TAG Heuer (1.0, D01) are celebrating the birthdays of a legendary watch model. Chopard commemorates the Happy Sport, which debuted 20 years ago, by launching the first mechanical version of this model.

TAG Heuer proudly looks back at the genesis of the Carrera, which was created for profession-al race-car drivers 50 years ago. To recall this event, TAG Heuer now releases the Carrera Calibre 1887 Jack Heuer Edition, with the brand’s own manufacture move-ment: TAG Heuer Calibre 1887.

Silicon arrived to aid Ludwig Oechs-lin’s Dual Direct escapement, which we used in the first Freak. Wheels made of conventional metals were too heavy. Rediscovering this technology – which we now apply to micro-mechanical parts and not electronic circuits as I did in my previous career – I realised that masking and selective photolithography [used in the silicon process] was giving unbelievable free-dom of design to our engineers.

Here at BASELWORLD you are showing six new in-house move-ments?The first one is the musical watch called Stranger, a marvellous product with an in-house movement and a complication comprising a specialised music box. It has a very interesting additional element that changes the function between time setting, date setting and winding. You don’t have to pull the crown into three positions, but rather press a button, which is very convenient, particularly for a ladies’ watch. The Stranger is really a music box and a watch: it plays the music at the top of each hour or on demand.

What does being at BASELWORLD mean to you? It is a great opportunity to be in contact with customers, subsidiar-ies, salespeople and to feel the mar-ket ambiance and how our products and service are perceived. To me, it is four relaxing days, not necessari-ly hard work, though the sales peo-ple work hard. It makes me feel as if I am in a kind of education seminar that is useful to me for my work the rest of the year.

Pierre Gygax, Ulysse Nardin Executive Vice President.

Ulysse Nardin Stranger.

1.0, A39

Jaquet Droz Grande Heure GMT.

4221_Vertu_Ads_for_Basel_Newspaper.indd 4 20/03/2013 15:53

Tendence-uomodonna-01/05.indd 1 03/04/13 17.07

Rodania Swiss Chic collection · Model ‘Elios Silk’ · Ref. 25057.22 · Ronda 751 Swiss Quartz movement · Stainless steel case Ø 28 mm · Extra white mother-of-pearl dial · 1 full cut diamond 0,0049 ct · Pink silky leather strap · Sapphire crystal · WR 5 ATM

www.rodania.com · [email protected] · facebook.com/RodaniaWatches HAll 1.2 STAnd B03


萧邦(Chopard)是一个拥有鲜明独立特质的家族品牌，与制表相关的每一环节都在位于日内瓦的梅林和Val-de-Travers地区的弗勒里耶的工厂内完成。从机芯研发、产品设计到冶金以及冲压成型；从机芯零件到表带制造，以及传统的手工环节，如打磨、组装、调校以及品质控制等，萧邦力求每一项元素皆能自主，对自我风格与独特品味的极致追寻闪耀在每一款萧邦作品中。就像BASELWORLD之前发布的L.U.C XP漆艺蛇表，表盘艺术设计不仅深受好评，而且其装配的L.U.C高级机芯也彰显了萧邦的制表实力。

1996年，萧邦在弗勒里耶建立了自己的机芯厂，专精于研发、制造和组装L.U.C机芯。自此带有微型自动陀的

2013年，拥有近百年历史的瑞士国际巴塞尔钟表珠宝展如期而至，这是BAZAAR Jewelry每年与它的约定！如果你是位钟表、珠宝的绝对狂热爱好者，那么来到巴塞尔，则是一份绝对的荣幸。无论你钟情于收藏级的大颗宝石，还是镶嵌精美的高级珠宝，一定有那么几件璀璨耀目的珍宝，用展柜中熠熠生辉的瞬间令你深深为之沉醉，无法自已！跟随BAZAAR Jew-elry探秘巴塞尔，你再也不会踌躇在琳琅满目的珠宝前纠结！

你知道吗？有些钻石会变色！毋庸置疑，许多年来，变色龙钻石作为最稀缺的宝石中的翘楚一直令彩钻收藏家们趋之若骛。所以，当这枚出自瑞士高级珠宝腕表品牌Chopard萧邦的变色龙钻戒揭开神秘面纱的那一刻，无人不啧啧称奇。这枚由盘旋着的黄金底托紧紧包裹着的卵形绿钻，重达31.32克拉，是现存记录中尺寸最大的变色龙钻石。这枚神奇的钻石加热或长久放置于黑暗中会短暂性改变自身的颜色，由最初的橄榄绿渐渐变成浓烈的金黄色或明亮的橙黄色，而当暴露于光线中或冷却后，又会迅速变成

萧邦(CHOPARD)新品介绍文/常伟 David Chang

唯一介绍珠宝的文章BAZAAR Jewelry芭莎珠宝珠宝编辑Lilian Liu 刘琴

临。就像表如其名，腕表造型充满了运动风格，不仅体现高贵风范，而且诠释澎湃力量，线条简洁利落、设计阳刚豪迈。腕表上的许多细节与赛车运动息息相关：表冠饰有橡胶铸模方向盘标志；表耳和按钮双侧的凹槽则令人想起跑车的散热片；表圈螺丝设计的灵感来自轮圈；天然橡胶表带以具有高辨识度的光滑轮胎作为样式。系列表款皆搭载饰有深灰色垂直条纹的表盘，令人联想到著名的“赛车条纹”（此条纹通常位于赛车的车顶和引擎盖上，将赛车和一般车辆区隔开来）。腕表不但外部设计别出心裁，机芯亦展现精雕细琢的制表工艺。所有的夹板皆经镂空雕凿，饰以平行细直条纹，令人联想起古董跑车的散热器护栅叶片。透过透视表背，机芯的质感一览无遗，可尽情欣赏前所未见的装饰加工模式。机芯具有COSC瑞士天文台精密认证，以及60小时动力储存性能，为新一代的萧邦自动机芯写下了新的注脚。

值得祝贺的不仅有新机芯的研发，还有Happy Sport系列的20岁生日纪念。1993年，萧邦联合总裁卡洛琳·舍费尔（Caroline Scheufele）设计了这个系列，迅速成为萧邦表中的典范。多年来该系列从未偏离过欢乐幽默和优雅感性的路线，而这种鲜明的识别性也被钟表爱好者所牢记，也要归功于能够在只有几厘米的精致表盘上自由滑动的“活动钻石”。现在，首次装配机械机芯的Happy Sport Medium Automatic腕表已经面世，直径36毫米的精钢表壳，防水深度达到30米，衬有黑色的鳄鱼皮表带，以完美的搭配绽放出夺目光彩。这款表采用了扭索饰纹的银色表盘，以传统的经典元素衬托出七颗自由快乐的活

深绿色。我们不得不赞叹，所有的宝石都是天斧神功的礼物，大自然赋予了它如此神奇的美丽，而萧邦用完美的设计将其极致诠释。

当然，并不是所有的参展珠宝都如此价值不菲，令人望洋兴叹。来到巴塞尔，你一定会找到属于自己日常佩戴最舒适合体的那一件珠宝精品！诞生于意大利的高级珠宝品牌Damiani玳美雅一直秉承着意大利优良的传统金属工艺，并将宝石镶嵌技术融入其中，令珠宝体现与众不同的精致典雅。它的设计风格简约利落，精美的镶嵌金属工艺可谓是意大利珠宝工艺的典范。2013年，由顶级金属工匠精心打造的D.Lace系列珠宝，采用品牌标志性的“D”图案进行重新演绎，造型简洁却体现着意大利珠宝王国浓郁的高贵气息。玫瑰金与白色缟玛瑙的搭配融入强烈的欧洲风情；白色黄金与黑色缟玛瑙的碰撞则因钻石的点缀而散发着冷艳的华丽气质。

细细品位巴塞尔，每个品牌、每个展柜都会给你不同的惊喜。珍珠之

王Mikimoto御木本，恪守高级日本Akoya珍珠最严格的甄选标准，带来全世界最精美的珍珠作品。极具意大利风格的Bulgari宝格丽，再一次将彩色宝石的巧妙搭配发挥到了极致。精磨戏刻的Swarovski施华洛世奇，用五颜六色的斑斓火彩为晶莹剔透的水晶赋予钻石般的星辰之光。而时尚高贵Hermès爱马仕则用独具品位的设计打造着配饰中的珍品。享受这场真正属于珠宝的盛宴，让它们的艺术之美流淌在你的心田！

高级制表业的独立者

珠宝狂欢邂逅巴塞尔

萧邦自产机芯成为高级钟表领域的一个代表。2008年7月，萧邦拥有了一家新的机芯厂——Fleurier Ebauches，这是一个生产面积达到5,100平方米的厂房。萧邦对原有的厂房进行了翻修整理，并配置了全新的机器，最终于2009年2月投入使用。此机芯厂的成立，再次体现了萧邦联合总裁卡尔-弗雷德理克·舍费尔（Karl-Friedrich Scheufele）先生的期望，以独立生产为长远目标，并能增加产品的产量。今天，萧邦在弗勒里耶共雇用约160位员工，负责约15个不同的专业领域。

随着Fleurier Ebauches的成功运作，本年度推出的Superfast系列首次装配了自主设计、研发和组装的机芯，这也象征了品牌全新时代的来

动钻石。透明的蓝宝石水晶底盖能够清楚看到自动上链机芯的运行，表面以日內瓦条纹作为装饰。

表壳內置的即使不是一台双涡轮增压发动机，但陀飞轮机芯却可看作是类似引擎的驱动装置，虽然两个物件功能差别很大，但这种机械理念的跨界却别具匠心，值得藏家反复把玩。L.U.C Engine One H钛金属腕表就是这样一款将汽车力学完美融合到制表技艺中的跨界作品。表盘视觉设计突出：时针和分针以中央指针的形式呈现，动力存储指针位于表盘左侧，看起来类似燃油表，秒针被安装在位于右侧的陀飞轮上，看起来像一个车速仪。即使是手工鳄鱼皮表带上的纹理及包缝，也是在回顾1960到1970年代赛车座椅的风格。萧邦专利的陀飞轮机芯，不仅融合了汽车引擎的多个元素，其布局理念也与赛车驾驶室如出一辙。通过在美学、功能和性能上的高度统一，萧邦再次与赛车行业建立了深远及亲密的默契。

L.U.C Engine One H钛金属腕表

Superfast Chrono腕表

Bulgari宝格丽顶级珠宝系列白金镶彩宝项链

Bulgari宝格丽顶级珠宝系列白金镶玉髓蓝宝石耳坠

萧邦钻石戒指白底图

L.U.C XP腕表

首次装配机械机芯的Happy Sport Medium Automatic腕表


AN INTERGALACTIC MISSION

ABOVE THE CLOUDS

RJ-ROMAIN JEROME OFFERS A NEW WAY OF READING THE TIME

NEW PILOTS’ WATCHES FROM JEANRICHARD

ANTONIO CALCE ABOUT THE VALUES OF TRUE WATCHMAKING

by Sabine Zwettler

by Sabine Zwettler

Interview by Iris Wimmer-Olbort and William George Shuster

EBEL – Ebel’s new Onde 30 mm combines steel and 18k rose gold for a modern two-tone look, with alternat-ing brushed and polished finishes. The watch is beautifully enhanced with diamonds. The dial is set with diamond hour markers, while the bezel is set with 38 diamonds and the crown with 14 diamonds. The movement is quartz, and functions include hours, minutes and sweep seconds. It is water resist-ant to 50 metres. (cb)

RJ-Romain Jerome unveils its first pilot’s watch at BASEL-WORLD: the Spacecraft.

Stemming from the joint endeav-ours of Manuel Emch, Eric Giroud and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, this new timepiece features a complica-tion with its own discreet charm, combined with a pure, restrained design.

In taking up this challenge, Manuel Emch, CEO of RJ-Romain Jerome, chose to associate with two of the top names in the watch indus-try: Eric Giroud and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. The three men pooled their ideas and their creativity to give rise to a unique timepiece they named Spacecraft. Right from the first sketches, Manuel Emch and Eric Giroud imagined a very differ-ent type of product, combining ret-ro-futuristic aesthetics and horo-logical complexity. “The design evolved in step with our discussions and our numerous exchanges. That is what makes it such a singular object,” explains Eric Giroud. An unusual trapeze-shaped model fea-turing a black PVD-coated titanium case, the Spacecraft both surprises

The Chronograph Aeroscope is inspired by the technical aesthetic of the instruments

in an aircraft’s cockpit. As is de rigueur for wristwatches in this genre, legibility is prioritised via large numerals, noctilucent indexes and glow-in-the-dark hands. The clearly designed dial is installed above self-winding chronograph calibre JR66. This new watch is ready for takeoff in a 46 mm pillow-shaped titanium case that is water-tight to ten atmospheres.

Corum, an iconic Swiss luxury watch, has been bought by the China Haidian Group. Corum will remain Swiss-

made, says Antonio Calce, who remains CEO. The agreement lets Corum strengthen the brand globally.

A LEGENDARY ICON IN A NEW LIGHT

NEWS

1.0, D31

1.0, D49

and intrigues. Its rectilinear profile and its facetted surface echo the design of spacecraft. A black rotat-ing disc with a red indicator trans-ferred on the sapphire crystal indi-cates the minutes on the top of the case, while the linear hour display is read off laterally, thereby giving time a whole new dimension.

The pure lines and the apparent simplicity of the Spacecraft conceal a particularly complex movement. Here the third mastermind behind the project comes into the picture:

Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. It was in the latter’s Geneva-based manufacturing facility Agenhor that this mechanical self-winding movement was exclu-sively developed for RJ-Romain Jer-ome. “The combination of these four functions – lateral, linear, jumping and retrograde hours – is unprece-dented,” says Jean-Marc Wieder-recht. The movement features a kind of spring-driven carriage that drives the hour display visible on the side of the watch by means of a red-lac-quered cursor moving beneath the

Jeanrichard Aeroscope.“The design

evolved in step with our

discussions and our numerous

exchanges. That is what makes it such a singular

object.” Eric Giroud

Calce said Hon Kwok Lung, Chi-na Haidian’s chairman “recognized the potential of a niche brand like Corum [and] is committed to pres-ervation and development of the Swiss watch industry. I’m confident that together we can continue Corum’s success.”

In this BWDN interview, Calce talks about Corum’s lines, the global market and BASELWORLD.

BWDN: You showcase new ver-sions of some existing lines. What is important in the further devel-opment of these collections?Antonio Calce: Corum focuses on an in-depth development of its icon-ic product lines Admiral’s Cup and Corum Bridges. The Admiral’s Cup has been sailing for 50 years, while the Bridges collection has been making its mark on watchmaking history for over 30 years. Every year we add new movement functions. The Bridges Collection introduces a world first with a revolutionary winding system based on two inter-dependent in-line oscillating weights. This top-flight develop-ment patented by Corum enables it to equip the famous Ti-Bridge with its first-ever automatic movement, while fiercely safeguarding the fun-damental principle of linearity.

The Admiral’s Cup Collection draws inspiration from its nautical origins for a new line firmly anchored in the present: AC-One 45. Buoyed up by an innovative case design developed by Corum, this eminently sporty newcomer sets the scene for complications.

Corum demonstrates with these novelties high horological exper-tise. Do customers expect this?I am convinced that the consumer is well-educated about watchmak-ing and gained expertise in high horology. He considers the move-

ment, if it is manufactured or not, whether it is exclusive or largely produced. Besides the customer’s expectations, the durability of the watchmaking industry is linked to the quality and standards of the watchmaking know-how. There-fore, it is essential for all brands to offer traditional contents and to communicate about the professions which act for the handcrafting of these in-house movements.

BASELWORLD is an internation-al market place with visitors from around the world. Which market is especially important for Corum?It is true that China is an important market with a huge growth poten-tial for the watchmaking industry. Of course Corum pays great atten-tion to this market, while continu-ing its business on traditional mar-kets. Since 2012, Corum has invest-ed huge means and started concrete partnerships in 12 countries of Lat-in America to develop its distribu-tion network.

We meet here in an unaccustomed place, since Corum has a new position at BASELWORLD. What are your surprises for the visitors?This year, Corum is inaugurating an over 700 square-metre brand-new three-floor stand in Hall 1. It is visually graphic, innovative and technically complex! The structure chosen for the load-bearing ele-ments is inspired by the cross-bars holding the baguette movement of the Ti-Bridge, one of Corum’s most iconic models.

Antonio Calce, Corum CEO.

RJ-Romain Jerome Spacecraft.

metallised sapphire crystal every 60 minutes. The dragging minutes, appearing on a black disc, are read off on the top of the case that also features bead-blasted titanium plates. Time-setting is done via a screw-lock crown at 12 o’clock. The Spacecraft watch is fitted with a black poly-amide mesh strap and limited to 99 pieces.

Eric Giroud, Manuel Emch and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht.

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TUTIMA UHRENFABRIK GMBH NDL. GLASHÜTTEAltenberger Straße 6 · 01768 Glashütte/Sa. · Germany

Tel. +49 35053 320 20 · [email protected]

Celebrate a Milestone in our History.On Your Wrist.

Please visit us at Hall 1.1 · Stand D87

www.tutima.com

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HALL 1.2 . BOOTHS E53 & E60The Invicta Reserve Arsenal invictawatch.com

BRAnd FAcTComprehensive inventory allowing for customer order fulfillment within 24hrs.

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Regina_ Baselworld Dailynews:300x400 6.3.2013 16:17 Page 1

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TIME, ITALIAN-STYLEFROM THE MOST EXCLUSIVE PIECES TO FASHION ACCESSORIES, ITALIAN WATCH DESIGN IS WINNING FANS ALL OVER THE WORLD

EBERHARD & CO. ALSO ENCHANTS THE LADIES

FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT ADDS TO SLIMLINE

by Roberto Chilleri


by Sabine Zwettler

From Bulgari to Morellato, Gucci and Locman, Italian watch brands have one thing in common: an origi-nal and recognisable style.

Their range offers something for eve-ryone: fans of unique handcrafted pieces and fashion victims alike. The jeweller Bulgari is an international emblem of Italian design, which has proved itself to have a real vocation for watchmaking, its most important source of income since the 1990s. This is thanks to the fact that the brand has transferred the style of its Roman origins to its watches, which are perfected and manufactured in Switzerland. The top-end of the mar-ket also includes other well-known names that owe their success not just to their quality, but also their concept. A versatile brand: Eberhard &

Co. stands for sporty chrono-graphs, as well as for classi-

cal watches with purist aesthetics. This brand’s collection also includes a series of feminine watches for ladies. The newest member of this line debuts at BASELWORLD, where the Gilda arrives like a bride all dressed in white. The oval, slightly domed stainless steel case is a familiar fea-ture that conforms to the curvature of a lady’s wrist. The dial is new: it’s crafted from mother-of-pearl and has slim lines that entwine around individual numerals to produce a stylised floral motif. The same flow-ery pattern reappears as an engrav-ing on the back of this quartz watch’s case.

As its name implies, the new Slimline Moonphase Manu-facture puts the moon into

the limelight. Five new models are being introduced, and all are driven by the genuine FC-705 Manufac-ture calibre of the Geneva-based independent brand. They are pre-sented in a specially designed wooden gift box. In spite of the many features incorporated into the new Slimline Moonphase Col-lection, the genius of these watches is that each complication can be accessed through the watch’s single crown. It can be set into three posi-tions. “Position 0” is selected for winding the watch. At “Position 1,” the date can be adjusted by turning the crown clockwise. Turning the crown counter clockwise allows users to adjust the moonphase. Finally, “Position 2” sets the time. Other common features include the elegant slimline design and a case

FLOWERS FOR THE LADY

A STYLE STATEMENT

1.1, B71

1.1, B79

When talking of ingenious ide-as, Meccaniche Veloci immediately springs to mind. This brand has associated its image with the world of motoring. In fact, in its most suc-cessful range the case resembles the cross section of a piston and the materials are also inspired by cars: aluminium and CCM (carbon ceramic material used in brakes).

U-Boat, the company founded by Italo Fontana, also stands out for its prestigious position and strong concept. Its first watch was inspired by a military underwater watch design developed by Fontana’s grandfather. In the niche market of handcrafted watches too, the design and concept are also key factors when it comes to success. The most unique brand is probably Giuliano

Mazzuoli, which made a name for itself with its Manometro model followed by its Contagiri.

The same goes for Locman: Marco Mantovani has given this brand from the Island of Elba a style that has paved the way in the world of quartz watches thanks to its sensational design. The watches are also available in precious versions.

Swiss brands are often given pride of place in Italian shop win-dows and, indeed, many of these brands have their own branch in Ita-ly. “In the past they were often distrib-uted by Italian wholesalers,” says Mario Peserico, Chairman of Asso-rologi, the association of Italian watch manufacturers and distributors and Managing Director of Eberhard Italia.

In 2012, despite a slight drop in watch sales in Italy, “Imports from Switzerland were up and the top end of the market maintained its moderate growth.” Over recent years, says Peser-ico, “attractive fashion brands have livened up the market somewhat.” These brands include Just Cavalli, John Galli-ano and Miss Sixty, manufactured and dis-tributed by the Morella-to & Sector group which, after having taken over and relaunched Sector, Philip Watch and Chron-

3 QUESTIONS, 3 ANSWERS

What new watches does Arnold & Son present at BASELWORLD? Arnold & Son has three new watch-es, each with a manufacture move-ment developed in-house. They include the HM perpetual moon (Royal Collection), which has the largest Perpetual Moon indication on the market and the UTTE (Instru-ment Collection), the Ultra Thin Tourbillon Escapement. This is the thinnest tourbillon watch on the market with a height of 8.3 mm. The tourbillon mechanism is big and has

a stunning 3D effect as it floats above the dial. The third new watch is the Time Pyramid, inspired by the regulators created by John and Roger Arnold over 200 years ago, and by antique British skeleton clocks. What is special about the Arnold & Son stand? For the first time, Arnold & Son is in the Palace. This fits with our image as one of the truly innovative, independent brands. Arnold & Son displays a British skeleton clock which is almost 200 years old at its stand. This clock was the inspiration for the new Time Pyramid watch. What will you be looking for in Basel? We expect to meet current and potential partners, some watch connoisseurs, and the media.

“A truly innovative, independent brand”

Philippe Boven, Executive Vice President Arnold & Son.

ostar, became the leading name in easy-to-wear watches.

Concerning fashion houses, “as a watch is an accessory, it repre-sents a very natural extension of the range”, explains Peserico. Gucci, which already has a significant his-tory in terms of watchmaking, has dedicated a division to it, based in Switzerland, and Versace has done the same. Others come up with the designs, then pass them on to a licensee, as in the cases of Valenti-no, Ferragamo, Alviero Martini. However, there are many more Ital-ian brands to discover at BASEL-WORLD. One thing they share, in every price range, is their sense of style and elegance, which are innate Italian qualities.

Meccaniche Veloci Quattro Valvole 44. Chronograph CCM limited edition.

U-Boat, pocket watch U-65.

diameter of 42 millimetres. All models come with a sapphire crys-tal on the front and see-through case back. A new technology known as “laser ablation” has been used to

create an outstandingly detailed image of the moon. Highly aestheti-cal also the perlage and circular Côtes de Genève decoration on the movement.

Frédérique Constant Slimline Moonphase Manufacture.


TERRIFIC TOURBILLONSTHE LOVE OF THIS GRAND COMPLICATION NEVER DIES – NEW PIECES OF TECHNICAL AND AESTHETIC BEAUTY

JACOB & CO. DEBUTS AMAZING GMT

by Roberta Naas

by Sabine Zwettler

The tourbillon – more than 200 years old in its invention – continues to be a complexity that watch connoisseurs

love and watch makers enjoy creat-ing. The tourbillon escapement, which compensates for errors in timekeeping due to the effects of gravity when the watch is in differ-ent positions on the wrist, is one that brands continue to push to new heights with design elements and with lighter, smaller, bigger and multiple escapements.

This year Stefan Kudoke – who has been creating extraordinary hand-crafted timepieces for years – unveils the Kudoke made in partner-ship with animal loving Habring². The joint birth is the KudOkTourbi. Visible in all its glory between two sapphire glasses, the 42 mm steel watch features the likeness of an Octopus. Using a one-minute flying tourbillon from Habring², the KudOkTourbi wraps its rose gold tentacles around the high-precision escapement. Just as the octopus’ ten-tacle tips are filled with blue ink, the KudOkTourbi features blue sapphire

One sees them in airports and train stations all over the world – the giant boards in

front of which travellers gather to get information on arrivals and departures. The most magical of them are the type known as “split flap” displays, in which letters and numbers are shown on hinged flaps that rotate to change the character displayed.

Jacob & Co. has taken the same magic found in split-flap displays – also often called “Solari boards” after the Italian firm, Solari di Udine, which manufactures them – and transported it into a wristwatch. It combines a dial which shows the time in a conventional way with a split flap display in a roller housed at the top of the dial. It also shows the time of a second time zone. On the left, two split flap systems indi-cate the name of the reference city, and on the right, the hour for the displayed city. The “24” refers to the 24 cities from which one can choose, corresponding to the 24 major time-zones with one hour offsets from Greenwich Mean Time.

The entrancing mechanical com-plexity of the split flap display is a

TIME FOR A SPLIT FLAP

Also this year, De Bethune unveils its DB16 Regulateur Tour-billon that celebrates fine watch-making. The timepiece houses the hand-wound mechanical 499-part DB2509 calibre with silicon and

titanium tourbillon beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour – mak-ing it ultra light weight and ultra fast. The watch also offers a retro-grade display of the age of the moon. On the watch back, readings

of the perpetual calendar and spherical moon phase indications are visible.

These few creative unveilings are just a sampling of the tourbillon delights decorating the watch halls.

set edges. Like the eight tentacles of an octopus, this watch is created in a limited edition of eight pieces.

Other new tourbillons stem from brands such as Revelation, which this year unveils the unique, world pat-ented Magical Watch Dial con-cept. In this concept, the magical dial transforms from black to transpar-ent and mysteriously allows the movement and secondary functions to appear. Developed with CSEM, the watch was five years in the development phases. The first dial is placed in the original R01 Double Complication – which features a tourbillon that appears thanks to the optical mechanism coupled with a double differential. CSEM has devel-oped a nanostructure for the dial that acts as shutters, blocking or allowing the light to pass through depending on whether the bezel is turned or not. The new R04 Tour-billon Magical Watch Dial, which can switch from a skeleton configu-ration to a traditional one by turning the bezel.

Revelation R04 Tourbillon Magical Watch Dial.


Bedat & Co. makes exquisite Swiss watches for women. What is it focusing on at BASELWORLD?

Our No. 3 (tonneau) and No. 8 (round opening) collections. We’ve added larger diamonds than previously. We’ve given larger sizes to our revamped

models #838 (36.5 mm) and #888 (43 mm), and resized our watches to be more comfortable for the smaller, rounder wrists of ladies in Asia.

Does Bedat have many Asian customers?

More and more of our customers are in the Far East. In 2010, our business there was about 5 percent (mainly Hong Kong). Most recently, it was

27 percent. How has BASELWORLD 2013 been for Bedat & Co.?

The frequency of visitors and the number of appointments is certainly increased. And it’s good to be back in Hall 1 again, after being in Hall 3

for a few years.

“The number of appointments has increased”

Dino Modolo, Director of Crea-tions, Bedat & Co.

first in the world of watches. Aug-menting the dual split-flap display is the rich complexity of the transpar-ent dial, which reveals parts of the movement. The shape of the watch is a sleek and streamlined housing for the complication, both refreshingly different and reassuringly logical in form and execution, with a large and easy-to-operate crown at 4 o’clock. It is balanced by the pusher for adjust-

ing the split time display, which is set into the side of the cylinder that houses it. It’s all shown off by a com-plex, two-part sapphire crystal that allows each of the two displays to be revealed. Jacob & Co.’s SF 24 is offered in a 45 mm case, which houses the exclusively for Jacob & Co. created self-winding Concepto based Caliber 2220, with an exclu-sive GMT module.

Jacob & Co. Epic SF 24.

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Stefan Kudoke KudOkTourbi.

Lili part à Deauville

Watch “Deauville”

H A L L O F S E N S AT I O N S - B O O T H 1 . 2 D 0 5 - W W W . T O P B R A N D S g R O u P . c O mPA R T O F T H E H O U S E O F

HALL 1.1 / BOOTH A55 www.romainjerome.ch

BACK TO THE FUTURE

Nostalgic for the 80s ? With its DeLorean-DNA watch, RJ-Romain Jerome pays tribute to the greatest auto-

mobile legend. The DeLorean has fascinated generations of viewers and remains engraved on collective memory due to its visionary concept and avant-garde design. Don’t look back in the mirror, the future is ahead of you ! You just have to reach 88 mph…

Cruise_Dream_W300_H400.indd 1 22/04/13 12:25


GUARANTEED TO BE GOOD QUALITY SEALS ASSURE PRECISION AND EXCLUSIVENESS

GLYCINE HONOURS AIRMAN’S 60TH YEAR

AVIATOR INTRODUCES PILOT’S WATCH


by William George Shuster

Distinctions like the COSC chronometer certificate and the Poinçon de Genève guarantee optimal

rate performance and high-quality craftsmanship. The traditional qual-ity seals have also been earned by new watches at BASELWORLD.

Precision has always been para-mount in the world of clocks and watches, which must keep time with the greatest possible accuracy. Generations of watchmakers have dedicated themselves to this goal.

Swiss watchmaker Glycine, known for high-quality pilot’s

watches, is celebrating the 60th anniversary of its Airman watch with very special timepieces and a commerative book. One is the popular Air-man 17 pilot’s watch, which has had a stylish facelift in a new 46 mm stain-less steel model named the Airman Sphair. Lighter and more elegant than its prede-cessor, it has blue, black and white dials, a black rotating bez-el and rotating rubber bezel holder. The automatic watch comes in the two sizes 46 and 39 mm with two 24-hour time zones or one 12-hour time zone with two extra 24-hour displays.

FLYING HIGHRUSSIAN SPIRIT60 YEARSOF FIFTY FATHOMS

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Their efforts are rewarded by offi-cial chronometer certification from the Contrôle officiel suisse des chronomètres (COSC). A watch bearing this Swiss certificate has passed rigorous tests and proven its accuracy. Many models proudly include this fact in their names, e.g. the new 3420 Limited Edition COSC from Epos (1.2, E29). This modern wristwatch with minimalistic styl-ing comes in two stainless steel variants, one of which is coated with black PVD. The latter version makes a very luxurious impression

by combining its black case with gold-coloured indexes and hands. A decorated self-winding movement (ETA 2892) with chronometer certi-fication powers displays for the hour, minute, second and date. These new watches are made in limited editions of 100 units (silvery steel model) and 200 units (black version).

Celebrating its 160th anniver-sary, Tissot (1.0, D25) presents a watch with a chronometer certifi-cate: the self-winding Tissot Herit-age Navigator 160th Anniversary.

Airman Sphair.

Chopard is a co-founder of the Qualité Fleurier seal for watches.

Epos 3420 Limited Edition COSC.

by Sabine Zwettler

The MIG-29 Cockpit Chro-no originated where it’s most used, at the air base

that is home to the “Swifts” Rus-sian aerobatic display team. The team’s pilots took inspiration from their flight instruments to describe the multifunctional timepiece they wanted and needed, beginning with a chron-ograph whose add and split functions guarantee flawless precision. The alarm function records take-off time and gives advance reminders of key stages in the flight. The MIG-29 Cock-pit Chrono is the ideal co-pilot, up in the air and back down on the ground. The MIG-29 Cockpit Chrono takes off in a 45 mm steel or steel/PVD case, which is water-resistant up to 10 atmos-pheres. It is driven by a Ronda quartz movement.

On the occasion of the 60th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms, Marc A. Hayek,

President and CEO of Blancpain, welcomed emblematic figures from the diving world, like the “father” of the diver’s watch, Jean-Jacques Fiechter, Blancpain President from 1950-1980, at the exhibition espe-cially dedicated to the Fifty Fath-oms here in Basel. (sz) 2.0, B09

This newcomer revives a model from 1963, which expresses itself here in a nostalgically elegant dial on which each time zone is indi-cated by the name of a major city in that zone. When the watch has been set for one of these 24 cities, the time in its zone is shown on the bezel.

Chopard (1.0, D15) likewise appreciates the credibility promised by a certificate. For example, the highly complicated L.U.C Engine One H tourbillon watch from the Chopard Manufacture is a COSC-

Aviator MIG-29 Cockpit Chrono.

certified chronometer and one of the debutantes at BASELWORLD. Also new in Chopard’s collection is a lim-ited series of the successful L.U.C XPS model, which bears the prestig-ious Poinçon de Genève. Among other assurances, this quality seal also guarantees that the movement has received particularly high-quali-ty finishing. Even more stringent, however, is the Qualité Fleurier seal, of which Chopard is a co-founder. This quality seal guarantees both a finely crafted movement and chro-nometer-worthy precision.

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Hall 1.2 / Booth D13 - E13


JEWEL OF THE SEAMOTHER-OF-PEARL DIALS MAKE WATCHES FEMININE AND SEDUCTIVE

SWISS TIME DRAWS INSPIRATION FROM MOTHER NATURE


by Sabine Zwettler

GUESS introduces a new version of Rigor. Measuring fully 45 mm in diam-eter, the timepiece completes the men’s ensemble, thanks to the origi-nal fashion inspired design. The Rigor silhouette is available in a variety of textural and tonal variations, includ-ing genuine leather straps, steel linked bracelets and a new smooth blue sili-cone strap. Each version features an etched top ring surrounding a carbon fiber-inspired dial and is equipped with an oversized crown and screw details. (sz)

Mother-of-pearl is one of nature’s most beautiful materials. Dials made from it add

gleam and beauty to new watches at BASELWORLD.

Mother-of-pearl plays with light, shimmers in slender multi-coloured lines, sends reflections dancing across its surfaces and

As fresh as the morning dew that covers leaves with thou-sands of tiny droplets, the

Sparkle watch enlaces a lady’s wrist. A ribbon of crystals accentu-ates its delicate dewdrop shape and soft colours. This is a watch that exudes peace and calm, not least in the white dial embellished with an applied flower motif which is also set with some forty crystals. And because a watch of course tells the time, Sparkle has two hands, one for the hours and one for the min-utes, although these are discreetly positioned at the bottom of the dial as though determined not to dis-turb the harmony of the whole. The watch is driven by a quartz move-ment.

MORNING HAS BROKEN

NEWS

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wins admirers with its gen-tle beauty. The diversity of its colour spectrum is fasci-nating too: mother-of-pearl occurs in pale white, through warm golden hues, to dark green and black. Each c h r o m a t i c nuance can imbue a watch’s dial with a differ-ent beautiful aura. Mother-of-pearl is most often used on the dials of ladies’ watches, where it epitomises femininity and ele-gance.

Swarovski (1.1, C21) demonstrates this in its new Lovely Crystals col-lection. A mother-of-pearl dial in the centre is sur-rounded by 16 colourless zircon elements along the bezel. A stainless steel bracelet with a yellow gold PVD finish accentuates the ele-gance of this quartz watch.

Gucci (1.0, D49) fashionably and glamorously stages mother-of-pearl in a new version of the exclu-sively feminine Gucci Coupé watch. The rounded rectangular case measures a stately 40 mm across and surrounds a grey moth-er-of-pearl dial on which 60 dia-monds accentuate Gucci’s unmis-takable GG logo. Notwithstanding

the luxury of mother-of-pearl and diamonds, this quartz watch is an elegant example of noble under-statement.

ENCHANTING COMBINATIONSJaquet Droz (1.0, C25) likewise ennobles mother-of-pearl with cre-ative details. Stainless steel and mother-of-pearl are enchantingly combined in the Petite Heure Minute 35 mm. The undisputed eye-catcher here is the shimmery blue

mother-of-pearl dial, which is fur-ther adorned with a sunburst design. Eight stars shining between the rays create the impression of a velvety and consummately beauti-ful night sky, which is further accentuated by 160 diamonds twin-kling along the bezel.

Emile Chouriet (2.2, B13) also spotlights mother-of-pearl with creative details. Stainless steel and mother-of-pearl are enchantingly combined in the Moonphase. The

makers of this watch took great efforts to assure that it looks femi-nine and luxurious, thus enabling it to serve as an appropriate home for the high-quality self-winding movement featuring an exclusive modul, which ticks inside. The eye-catcher here is the shimmery mother-of-pearl moon, which rotates around the dial. Diamond stars shining between the decor of the sophisticated dial lend the impression of a realistic night sky.

Swarovski Lovely Crystals.

The Swarovski stand is one of the most impressive ones at

this year´s BASELWORLD.

Emile Chouriet Moonphase.

WATCH TO WATCH

Movement Miyota 2035, quartz

Functions hour, minute, second

Case material stainless steel/yellow gold PVD


Special features diamond-dust dial, ceramic bezel

Place to watch: 1.2, D49

MorellatoCollezione Firenze

Swiss Time Sparkle.


RED AND PINK REMAIN EN VOGUEAS POPULAR AS EVER: GOLD TAKES ON COLOUR

URBAN JÜRGENSEN ADDS THE BEAUTY OF ENAMEL TO ITS UNIQUE DÉTENTE ESCAPEMENT CALIBRE

CLERC GENÈVE INTRODUCES INNOVATIVE CHRONOGRAPH MODEL


by Elizabeth Doerr

by Sabine Zwettler

Gold with a maidenly blush looks softer, sunnier and more seductive than ever. Rose gold remains

extremely popular for elegant and classical watches.

Rose gold flatters the skin and looks simultaneously warm and harmonious, so it’s not surprising that designers adore this coyly blushing and unflaggingly popular precious metal. The blend deter-mines the hue: pure gold is so soft that it must be admixed with other metals to make the alloy sufficiently hard to serve as a watch’s case, and these admixed metals also influence

Two years ago Urban Jür-gensen introduced Calibre UJS-P8 here at BASEL-

WORLD: the first detente escape-ment successfully incorporated into a wristwatch. Last year, this move-ment, the concept of which is known for its frailty – precisely the reason it had not yet been fitted into a portable wristwatch – was even certified by the Swiss institute Chronofiable. With this year’s Montre Observatoire à Émail, Urban Jürgensen adds to the beauty of this classic timepiece with an age-old craft: enamel. “The effort put into this dial was nothing short of titanic,” says CEO Dr. Hel-mut Crott. “With its handcrafted ele-ments including transparent enamel and our own manufacture of the enamel, this slightly ivory-coloured dial is certainly unique on the mar-ket.” Indeed, the luminosity of the dial is founded in the absorption of the light that is emanated by the handmade dial’s 18K gold back-ground and the special quality of the transparent enamel, which is manu-factured in-house from a silicon crystal that is usually only utilized to created flint glass. “Flint lenses are used for special optical machines that observe orbit. Alongside the intensity of colour, it is the glass and the technique used that allow us to reach this special visual dial depth.” The dial is fired a full fifteen times at more than 800°C and then com-pletely hand-painted with numerals. This high-fire (Grand Feu) process ensures many rejects, making the surviving dials that much rarer and more valuable.

Thus connecting with centuries of this brand’s history, this version will only be released in a limited edi-tion in 18K gold.

Two central hands as chrono-graph counters: such is the innovative solution pro-

posed by Clerc Genève. The first indicates the seconds, and the sec-ond counts off the minutes. Loyal to the design of the Hydroscaph line, this instrument is water-resistant to 500 metres and is deb-uting in a robust 103-part black DLC-coated stainless steel case

featuring the signature lateral rein-forcements and an octagonal bezel. The watch is driven by the C.O.S.C.-certified calibre Clerc C608 and can be admired through the sap-phire crystal in the case back. The black dial does not only indicate the chronograph function in a spe-cial way but features also a date and a 24-hour day/night indication.

HIGH FIRE BEAUTY

OFF THE BEATEN PATHS

Palace 4C

1.1, A79

1.1, A79

the gold’s colour. Copper is respon-sible for the beloved rose shimmer, which make it appear more red or yellow, depending on the percent-ages of the metals in the mixture. Skilful alloying enables metallur-gists to achieve some 300 different gold hues.

The currently most popular col-our gleams in the showcases of all the big brands at BASELWORLD. Patek Philippe, for example, presents its new Calatrava Reference 5227 in rose gold and proudly debuts a mod-ernised case with classical lines and a slimmer bezel in combination with self-winding calibre 324 SC, which is widely admired in the

world of horology. The rose gold on the case reappears on the dial, where it graces the applied indexes, the hands and the frame around the date win-dow.

The new Calatrava in rose gold proves how beautifully the pink nuance can be paired with a pale dial. This juxtaposition is also used by Revue Thom-men in its new Classical 82 Round, which alludes to historical pilots’ watches but boasts a modernised dial on which the hands and indexes gleam with the same rose gold hue that distinguishes the case. Spelling out the “12” in letters gives an appealingly nostalgic look to this watch, which is animated by hand-wound manufacture calibre GT 82.

Rose gold or red gold with white is a winning team, but the warmly reddish hue also goes perfectly well

Urban Jürgensen Montre Observatoire à Email.

Clerc Genève Hydroscaph Lim-ited Edition Cen-tral Chronograph.

with black, as is impressively shown by a new watch from Dubey & Schaldenbrand. The Grand Dôme DT Rose Gold makes a self-confi-dent impression in its tonneau-shaped case. The red gold used for this case reappears on the dial, where it forms interlocking rings around the various displays. Classic chronograph calibre Valjoux 7751 powers displays for the hour, minute, day of the week, date, month and moon’s phase.

Revue Thommen Classical 82 Round.

A host of pink-hued watches is showcased at BASELWORLD.

Dubey & Schaldenbrand Grand Dôme DT Rose Gold.


LOOKING BACK IN TIMEWATCHES IN VINTAGE LOOK ARE INSPIRED BY THE RECENT OR MORE DISTANT PAST

TENDENCE SKULL REMINDS US ALL OF OUR MORTALITY IN A FASHIONABLE WAY


by Nina Hald

Art Déco, the 1950s or the wild ’70s: the styles of bygone epochs con-tinue to thrive today. New watches at

BASELWORLD show how remark-ably contemporary the good old days can be.

With its stylised and planar depictions of floral motifs, Art Déco catapulted art and design into the classical modern period. Great

As small macabre reminders and tokens of mortality, fash-ion once more bestow us

with memento mori symbols. Goth-ic and grotesque, Swarovski bejew-elled skulls are making their pres-ence known on the watch dials of the Tendence Skull collection. Fol-lowing the success and popularity of the previous Tendence Skul collec-tion, BASELWORLD 2013 sees the premiere of the new collection. Each of the five Tendence Skull watches features a distince Skull symbol on the dial, which blends perfectly with the auda-cious brand design and style appeal. A variety of platings including rose gold, yellow gold and silver are available and one model features Swarovski crystals on the bezel as well as the Skull symbol. Thanks to co-marketing with Crystal Head Vodka, each Skull

A SMILEY SKULL

designs from the Art Déco era still spark enthusiasm today. Other dec-ades similarly exert a lasting influ-ence: the 1950s, for example, when designers moved freely between tradition and modernity, or the 1970s, which coincided with the heyday of the exuberantly cheerful and gaudily colourful Flower Pow-er years. Stylistic elements that typified these epochs have stood the test of time and are enjoying a

ALFEX INTRODUCES A NOTABLY THIN TIMEPIECEby Sabine Zwettler

A certain playfulness and a desire to have some fun inspired Alfex’s designers to create this new collection of original and

playful watches with a vintage mood that evoke the carefree spirit of the 1920s. The small and elegant dial, with a diameter of just 15 millime-tres, is given greater presence by the rectangle with rounded corners frame within which it slides. By moving the wrist, the wearer causes the dial to literally swing, thus amplifying the beat of time. The hours are indicated with linear markings at 12 and 6 o’clock. Following the Alfex philosophy, the watch becomes an acces-sory, and in this case, a piece of jewellery that marks the passing of the minutes as it swings to the pace of our daily lives.

The Swing collection comes in three varia-tions: two with simply coloured dials –silver and black – paired with a steel bracelet, and a third with a pure silver dial in delicate contrast to its gold bracelet. The steel links form a chain of rectangle that echoes the dial’s frame. Swing is equipped with a Swiss made quartz movement and is waterproof to 3 atmospheres.

SWEET SWING

Alfex Swing.Tendence Skull.

Corum Heritage Vintage Chargé d’Affaires.

Corum’s staff advise a custom-er at their stand in Hall 1.0.

Ryota Aoyagi, President and CEO of Citizen Watch Co.

HEARD IN BASEL

“It is a great privilege for Citizen to par-ticipate in the newly revitalized BASEL-WORLD where all the watch brands of all the world come together.”

watch comes in special Skull pack-aging, complete with a Crystal Head Vodka Skull shot glass, designed by the renowned American artist John Alexander. 1.2, A31

comeback. “Vintage” is trendy nowadays, as numerous watch designers look back in time and reinterpret familiar styles. Inspired by their own histories, many brands release watches that revive bygone models, albeit in contem-porary dimensions and with today’s aura.

West End Watch gazes nearly a century into the past with its Queen Anne Automatic Chronograph, which is inspired by a historical model that was delivered to the Indian British Army during the First World War. Roman numerals and a bold minute-circle on the dial, complemented by an easy-to-grip crown on the flank, give this watch a nostalgic appearance. Totally contemporary, on the other hand, is the polished steel case with its simple lines and classical black-and-white colour scheme.

Corum revives a watch from 1958: the Heritage Vintage Chargé d’Affaires is a mechanical alarm watch that debuted 55 years ago and was depicted in the first cata-logue published by the recently established Corum watch brand. This watch’s origins in the 1950s are also evident on its dial, where simple hands point to baton-shaped indexes, and in its now slightly enlarged white gold or red gold case, which houses a hand-wound movement. A red arrow on the dial indicates the preset alarm time.

Vulcain looks back to the 1970s with its Nautical Seventies, a divers’

watch that can descend to 300 metres. Thanks to a threefold back which serves as a resonance cham-ber, this watch’s alarm can also be heard underwater. The dial of this stainless steel wristwatch is a rep-lica of the model from 1970 and is printed with decompression tables. Of course, every divers’ watch which makes a splash underwater needs a rotatable bezel: this one’s bezel can be adjusted by turning a lockdown-crown at 4 o’clock.

West End Watch Queen Anne Automatic Chronograph.

1.2, B01

As makers of handcrafted watches, bicycles, leather goods, and journals,

we believe that products should be built to last, and they should be

built here in America. Shinola stands for skill at scale,

the preservation of craft, the beauty of industry.

BASELWORLD HALL 1.2 BOOtH A23

SHINOLA.COM

The Runwell feAturing A white diAl with remote Sweep Second in A StAinleSS Steel cASe And detroit-built Argonite 1069 movement.

tHE LONg tRADItION Of DEtROIt WAtCHMAkINg HAS juSt BEguN.

TRIM SIZE: 300mm x 400mmCREATED AT: 100%COLOR: 4C

Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black

Baselworld Daily NewsTHIS ADVERTISEMENT PREPARED BY: PARTNERS & SPADECLIENT: SHINOLA DETROITJOB #: SHINOLA_BASELWORLD_0327ART DIRECTOR: ANTHONY SPERDUTICOPYWRITER: GRIFFIN CREECHACCOUNT MANAGER: CATHERINE BOROD


Mademoiselle Privé Decor Coromandel.

THE FINE ART OF TRADITIONAL CRAFTSMANSHIP ENGRAVING, GUILLOCHE, ENAMELLING: NEW WATCHES REVITALISE THE FINEST TRADITIONAL TECHNIQUES

L’EPÉE INTRODUCES LA TOUR


by Sabine Zwettler

Fascinating pic-tures in minia-ture format: t r a d i t i o n a l crafts capture

enchanting scenes and within the confines of a watch. The tiny stages for them are dials enlivened with engraved or enameled motifs.

A proud ship surrounded by sunrays and two ships confronting each other in a naval bat-tle: are the motifs on watches in the three-part HMS Victory Set from Arnold & Son, in which the English watch brand

In keeping with its rich history, clockmaker L’Epée continues to demonstrate its savoir-faire with

exceptional mechanical move-ments. Its latest invention, La Tour, is a clock in a completely new vein, with a power reserve of eight days. The clean, minimalist lines of its vertical structure become a canvas

A MECHANICAL SCULPTURE

NEWS

1.2, A01

2.0, D17

celebrates both the art of engraving and a quintessen-tially British theme. One of the English navy’s most famous ships, the HMS Victory partici-

pated in many naval battles, including the battle of

Trafalgar in 1805, when the Victory

served as Lord Nel-son’s flagship. This myth is revived on elegant dials that

are first engraved by a master engraver and

then plated with silver. The three-dimensionality

of the scenes is further

accentuated by giving a matte finish to individual elements of the pic-tures. Classical hand-wound move-ments are ensconced inside the timepieces’ red gold cases.

Enamel, on the other hand, plays with colours, e.g. on dials pre-sented by Chanel and Ulysse Nar-din. The dial of Chanel’s one-of-a-kind Mademoiselle Privé Decor Coromandel is adorned with land-scape featuring a boat, cliffs and plants. This watch combines a high-quality white gold case with dia-monds and a self-winding mechani-cal movement.

Likewise very charming are the masterfully enamelled motifs on the Ulysse Nardin’s Caprice Butterfly. Brilliant in blues, with a pop of berry, and delectably adorned with 3.8 carats of diamonds (353 to be exact), the 18K white gold watch

L’Epée La Tour.

Ulysse Nardin’s display windows showcase watches which are deeply rooted in Swiss tradition.

HUSH PUPPIES – In 1958, Hush Puppies designed the first casual shoe and enjoyed powerful brand aware-ness worldwide. The watches were launched in 2002 consistent with the brand attributes casual, vintage and stylish. The new HP.3806M is a classi-cal three-hand piece in the original casual style. It indicates the date at three o’clock and sits on a metal bracelet. (sz)

SEIKO’S ANANTA CHRONO EVOKES OLD JAPANby William George Shuster

Seiko’s new limited edition Ananta automatic chrono-graph, 300 pieces, stars a

hand-painted lacquer dial in a deep blue, a colour never previously achieved with lacquer. The crescent moon on the watch dial’s left side is inspired by the helmet worn by Date Masamune, a famous 17th century Japanese Samurai warrior, diplo-mat and city founder. The 42.8 mm stainless steel timepiece houses a chronograph up to 12 hours and amasses a 45 hour power reserve. The sapphire crystal is treated with Seiko’s proprietary anti-reflective coating.

AN HOMAGE TO A PIONEER

1.1., D79+D83

Ananta Chrono.

has a grand entrance at this year’s BASELWORLD. Yet, it is the butter-fly itself, produced in Enamel Champlevé, that further reveals the artistic mastery of Ulysse Nardin. In this technique, superior care and precision is crucial to its success. Cavities in a thick metal surface are created, filled with moist powdered enamel and fired. Sanding delicate-ly by hand, an essential step maneu-vered by the hands of experts, excess enamel is removed, allowing the enamel’s true colour and shine to break through. These vibrant, glistening hues are accented by strong metal borders, heightening the meticulous detail of this art form. Life-like in its illustration, the Caprice Butterfly timepiece is pre-sented as a limited-edition collec-tion of 28 pieces. It houses a state-of-the art self-winding movement.

Ulysse Nardin: Caprice Butterfly.

for beautiful “Côtes de Genève” motifs on the skeleton plates in pal-ladium or satin-finished gold. Each clock is inscribed with an individu-al number which is recorded along with full details of the clock. This mechanical sculpture is driven by the 1853 calibre with 18 jewels. As always, the cabinet is a lesson in

sobriety, its trans-parency serving to highlight the beauty of the movement as it catches the light.

The glamorous, powerful wood-hulled motor boats - so popular in the 20’s and 30’s - were the inspiration for the Runabout Moonphase,a timepiece designed to evoke passionate images of magnifi cent cra� s and roaring engines, racing across the wh� e-capped waters of pri� ine lakes. Frédérique Constant proudly supports the Riva Historical Society.

Conta� . + 41 22 860 0440 . www.frederique-con� ant.com

Live passionyourw h Runabout Moonphase & Riva Hi� orical Society

Please visit us at Baselworld, Hall 1.1, Stand B79

Visit us in Hall 1.1 Stand D71FERNANDO ALONSO COLLECTION Twice World Drivers’ Champion


Franc Vila FVi N°8 Tourbillon Intrepido SuperLigero Skeleton.

THE BEAUTY OF MECHANISMSFASCINATING VIEWS INTO THE MOVEMENTS: MODERN SKELETONISED WATCHES AT BASELWORLD

FROM THE SPORTY TO THE UNDERSTATED, BALCO HAS IT COVERED

SMART WATCH DEBUTING AT BASELWORLD


by Nina Hald

by Carol Besler

A skeletonised movement makes the mechanisms into elements of the design. Gazing into a skeletonised calibre is

an unforgettable experience.Clear shapes, graphic lines and

high-mech as an aesthetic element: new skeletonised watches ably embody avant-garde watchmaking. Scarcely any other traditional craft has changed as drastically as skel-etonising. Watchmakers in bygone days strove to pare away the great-est possible amount of material from the components, which they then decorated with nostalgic pat-terns, but their modern-day descendants prioritise a high-mech aesthetic that presents the mecha-nism in the most flattering light through graphic staging and an appealing arrange-ment.

The latest Ti-Bridge from Corum epitomises this new approach. The mini-malistic styling of the Ti-Bridge Automatic Dual Winder’s titanium case con-tinues inside the watch, where the gear-train is linearly arranged. An interesting detail in this model is

The philosophy of the watch brand Balco is the use of wis-dom to create simplicity and

delicacy. Combining traditional Swiss watchmaking skills and mod-ern designs, Balco values technical proficiency and exquisite crafts-manship in the manufacture of eve-ry part of its timepieces. Undivided attention is given to each step of the production process and every small part is made to perfection. The watches are the outcome of meticu-lousness and innovation rather than being simple timing tools or decora-tive pieces. Every collection of Balco is filled with the inspiration of designers and the skilful technique of watchmakers. Balco’s range caters for both sexes and most tastes, ranging from sporty to understated elegance. The self-winding Speed range makes use of subdials, echoing the speedometers of racing cars, and three timer but-tons imply a further competitive

The i’m watch is the world’s first luxury smart wristwatch for iPhone and Android,

entirely made in Italy. The watch was developed by engineer Manuel Zanella and his partner, architect and designer Massimiliano Bertolini. This smart watch will enable wear-ers to receive the full range of smart phone functions, including calls, text messages, e-mails, notifications, music, agenda information, weather forecasts, photos or applications. The watches are available in three ver-sions and are made of gold, silver or platinum, combined with digital technologies.

THE SPIRIT OF SPEEDOMETERS

PHONE TIME

2.0, A01

1.2, C01

the automatic winding system, which Corum designed with two coupled oscillating weights.

Franc Vila likewise presents a new staging of horological mecha-nisms in the FVi N°8 Tourbillon Intrepido SuperLigero Skeleton. An arcing frame calls attention to the dial, beneath which the movement’s components are arranged for maxi-mal effect. Even the barrel is pierced to allow viewers to see the main-spring at the “12”. The tourbillon

i’m watch.

Men’s automatic watch from Balco.


For how long has Erwin Sattler been exhibiting here?

Our clock manufacture has shown its com-plete collection and its new items at BASEL-WORLD right from the start, when our com-

pany was called “Muba”. What is your most important new item in 2013?

“In recent years, we’ve earned an outstanding reputation as a maker of precision

watch-movers. Our new Aero model, a precision watch-mover for four

wristwatches, is styled like an aircraft. A Sattler airplane clock forms the fuselage and the watch-movers are integrated as turbines

into the wings. It can be operated and programmed with every smartphone.”

What role does tradition play for your firm? “The Erwin Sattler clock manufacture was established in 1958. We’re proud that our

masterpieces integrate the best inventions from 400 years of horological tradition, thus

preserving those inventions for the future. Together with our staff of thirty colleagues,

we make more than 1,000 precise clocks each year. Our ultra-accurate mechanical

pendulum clocks deviate from perfect timekeeping by a mere two seconds per

month. We want to preserve this clockmaking tradition for the future.”

“No platform is better than Basel”

Richard Müller, CEO Erwin Sattler.

spirit. Balco’s philosophy is to dis-play time through a combination of deep knowledge of machinery and a touch of artistry, which opens the door for innovations.

turns at the “6”. The ultra-light yet robust materials include lightnium: this alloy of aluminium and lithium, which is also used in aircraft, serves here as the tourbillon’s bridge. Sili-con is the material of choice for the escape-wheel and the pallet-lever. All this is ensconced inside a titani-um case with red gold inlays along its bezel. A rubber wristband com-pletes this modern opus technicus.Epos unites traditional and modern skeletonising in its model 3424SK. The artisans began with Unitas’ hand-wound calibre 6497, which they manually embellished with openwork and engraved patterns. These steel parts are optionally available with a coating of black PVD, which gives them a modern

and minimalistic look. The dial has a subdial for the seconds in the form of a pierced circle at the “9” and a minute-circle on the flange. Epos self-confi-dently describes this convinc-ing watch as “the quintes-sence of time”.

Epos 3424SK.


A NEWCOMER ESTABLISHES ITSELF MODERN AND EXPRESSIVE: NEW TITANIUM WATCHES FROM SPORTY TO COMPLEX

TF EST. 1968 UNVEILS NEW CUFFLINKS

BE WILD – AND GO BOLD WITH THE SHARK SILICONE WATCH COLOURS FROM MISAKI


by Roberta Naas

by Roberta Naas

MEISTERSINGER – This German brand presented its first one-handed watch at BASELWORLD in 2001. Embodying the philosophy of “decel-erated time”, it was immediately wel-comed by aficionados of minimalistic

watch design. Now the Neo F Q ladies’ watch debuts: a lone hand circles above its

dial, which is embellished with a sunburst pattern.

The model is available in three versions, each of which is ani-mated by an ETA

quartz movement. The 36 mm steel case is

affixed to a velour leather strap. Meistersinger also

includes a second inter-changeable wristband along

with each delivery. Thanks to a special method, the bands can be switched easily and without tools. The Neo F Q is also available in a version with two hands. (sz)

Titanium began as a rar-ity in the watch world later became a pre-ferred material for sport watches, and now even

serves as cases for sophisticated complications.

In the vastness of outer space, in the depths of the oceans and even inside the human body: versatile titanium is advantageous in many applications. Not to mention its aura: this metal’s dark, technical-

Having established more than 500 retail outlets in two years to carry its products, Swiss TF

Est. 1968 offers watch-inspired cuf-flinks that include moon phases and tourbillons. Now, the brand brings the collection to new heights – offer-ing a vast array of tourbillon cufflink models now in a host of colours.

These round steel cufflinks fea-ture a genuine watchmaking mecha-

Having worked with materi-als from the sea for over 25 years – pearl jewellery with

saltwater cultured pearls such as Akoya and Tahiti pearls – it was a natural step for Monte Carlo-based jewellery and watch designer Mis-aki to look towards sharks for the company’s watch collection for ladies and gents. The Shark Watch Collection, inspired by the graceful silhouette of the shark, pays tribute to the beauty of this mysterious creature, perfected over millions of years of evolution and whose mag-nificent form reigns over the end-less blue oceans. The Shark Watch Collection is available in nine designs and models, with or with-out a chronograph, and boasts an array of beautiful colour combina-

ACCESSORY WITH HOROLOGICAL AMBITIONS

SHARK WATCHES IN SILICONE

NEWS

2.0, A45 2.2, D352.1, K80

looking, silvery grey shimmer has made it popular as a material for watch cases. Connoisseurs appreci-ate both its sporty appearance and its material properties, including its low specific gravity: titanium is 42 percent lighter in weight than an equal volume of stainless steel. And the high-tech metal is also very tough and resistant.

Titanium enlivens many sporty collections at BASELWORLD, and it’s also being used increasingly

often to encase m o v e m e n t s with sophisti-cated complica-tions. Young and wild watch design-ers frequently stage their radically avant-garde creations in titanium, which visitors can discover, for example, in the Palace, where MCT presents the Sequential One - S110 with emphat-

TF EST. 1968 cufflinks.

Misaki Shark Watch Collection.

Visitors are attracted by Swiss brand Armand Nicolet’s showcases.

ically technical styling. The tita-nium case con-

tains a hand-wound move-ment that

propels the minute-hand, while the cur-

rent hour’s digit appears on a quartet of pivot-ing panels. The minute-circle

rotates to reveal a different digit each

hour. A fascinating spectacle is the

impressive result. Pierre DeRoche

likewise eschews a clas-sical dial for the TNT Royal

Retro Power Reserve, which encases an exclusive self-winding

calibre from Dubois Dépraz. The seconds are shown in retrograde manner on four arcs, which are interrupted only by a power-reserve display at the “6”. The exposed gears of the movement further accentuate this watch’s high-tech charm. The case follows suit: a titanium container coated with black PVD combines here with a steel bezel, steel horns and a steel crown protector.

Armand Nicolet presents the new model L09, which offers an unobstructed view of its movement. A hand-wound calibre displays the hours, minutes and seconds inside a boldly styled and generously propor-tioned titanium case coated with black DLC. Thanks to titanium’s low weight, this watch rests comfortably atop its wearer’s wrist, a place where this remarkable metal is increasing-ly often found nowadays.

Pierre DeRoche TNT Royal Retro Power Reserve.

Armand Nicolet L09.

tions ranging from pink, blue, white and red among others. Combined with a silicone or a leather strap, the watches offer many possibilities to suit every taste.

nism in perfect working order – so they move with the wearer’s every move. The cufflinks are held in place with a precision spring clasp, and are water-resistant, airtight and resistant to shocks. Whereas previ-ously the cufflinks were offered with either a steel or gold background, they now come with a background (dial) colour of chocolate brown, silver or amethyst.

S F 2 4Split Flap Display

45mm 18K Rose Gold Automatic Movement

BASELWORLD HALL 1 .1 STAND B31

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The GoS Winter Nights watch.

Transformer or wristwatch:

Rebellion’s T-1000 Gotham.

SWEDISH TRADITION, DAMASCUS STEEL

TRANSFORMER WRISTWATCH

GUSTAFSSON & SJÖGREN PRODUCE ONE-OF-A-KIND GOS TIMEPIECES

REBELLION’S MECHANICAL RACING-INSPIRED T-1000 BOASTS ONE THOUSAND HOURS OF POWER RESERVE

HAUTLENCE MAKES HAUTE HORLOGERIE TRANSPARENT AND INTERESTING

by Elizabeth Doerr

by Elizabeth Doerr

by Elizabeth Doerr

Representing Scandinavia within the Palace Hall, GoS Watches introduces time-

pieces from Nordic series and pre-miere a truly unique Winter Nights at BASELWORLD. Bladesmith Johan Gustafsson and watchmaker Patrik Sjögren use the cold, natural northern climate of Sweden and its ancient metallurgical traditions as their inspiration. Produced in a lim-ited series of only 10 pieces, these are the first GoS watches to feature a manually wound movement by Martin Braun. They make it their own with a 4/5-plate crafted in sol-id, hand-forged Damascus steel. Sjögren designed the plate to be as large as possible in order to show the damascened material to advan-tage and finished the parts to pro-vide a balance between the raw Damascus steel surface and the tra-ditional high polish of horological bevelled edges. “Finishing Damas-cus steel is very labour-intensive as every part is polished, bevelled and etched several times to achieve the final result,” he explained. The movement is outfitted with Braun’s progressive silicon HPE escape-ment. The dial boasts 128 layers of true folded, hand-forged, damascened steel, which displays a pattern invented by Gustafsson. The fascinating Winter Nights dial is an interpretation of the rapidly chang-ing sky during the phenomenon known as the Northern Lights. Win-ter Nights — Vinternätter in Swedish — is also the name of an ancient fes-tival that was first celebrated in pre-Christian Scandinavia during the month of October.

Launched in 2008, Rebellion is a young independent Swiss manufacturer based in Lonay,

Switzerland. The brand’s powerful, idiosyncratic timepieces generate emotional and intellectual respons-es, which certainly represent part of the contemporary identity for dynamic and technically astute indi-viduals of the modern era.

Racing is an element inherent to Rebellion thanks to the brand’s founder, who also owns a racing

team aptly named Rebel-lion Racing. The profes-

sional team, which includes driver Nico Prost (son of Alain Prost), reg-ularly takes part in the gruelling

Hautlence finally launched its second full development in 2011 after four years of research, develop-

ment and tweaking. The HL2.0 earned three patents (for the hour chain, the mobile bridge, and the

REVOLUTIONARY RETROGRADE

0.F, Palace P03

Hautlence’s HL2.3.

double spring barrels) and became one of the most talked-about time-pieces of the haute horlogerie year.

This year at BASELWORLD, Hautlence launches an automatic version of the HL2.0, which neces-sitates a somewhat more compre-hensive casing than that of the almost fully transparent manually wound version. The automatic ver-sions now come encased in 18K gold (HL2.1), 4N 18K red gold (HL2.2) and blackened titanium (HL2.3) cases measuring 50 mm x 42 mm x 17.8 mm. To accommo-date the automatic winding and its 18K red gold rotor, the three-dimensional movement of the HL2.3 has shifted very slightly, though all the basic premises remain the same, including the hours displayed by a twelve-link “chain” comprising twelve num-bers and hinged on a system of pallets. The retrograde minutes are still displayed in the centre of the movement, while a power reserve indicator shows the state of winding. The movement com-prises 552 individual parts includ-ing 92 jewelled bearings, all very visibly finely finished within their sheath of sapphire crystal. Limited to just 28 pieces in each version, it comes in a set with a special travel box, a loupe, and a three-year guarantee. 0.F, Palace 2C

Le Mans Series with Lola-Toyota racing machines. And it is precisely at the arduous 24 Hours of Le Mans that Rebellion’s creators had the inspiration for the adventurous T-1000, a model that splits its claim to fame between 1,000 hours of pow-er reserve and a design like no other. While watching the cars race a top speed for 24 hours, the Rebellion team asked itself, “Why not a watch with a huge power reserve, like 1,000 hours?”

While the original limited edition was vaguely reminiscent of a racing machine, the ensuing extensions seem to venture into science fiction. This year’s 25-piece limited-edition T-1000 Gotham looks more like a Transformer or a comic book super-hero’s tank than a wristwatch. How-ever, its six spring barrels, visible vertical tourbillon, and cylindrical time display remind us that this is a high-end wristwatch encased in tita-nium. 0.F, Palace 6C

A selection of timepieces from Hautlence.

Mindblowing watches at the Rebellion stand.

42 MARKETSWEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013

CHINESE TASTES FOR SWISS LUXURY CHINA HAS A GROWING APPETITE FOR SWISS LUXURY WATCHES AND INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY BRANDSby Pooja Agarwal

Chinese tourists are spending more on their foreign travels, snap-ping up fine Swiss watches and luxury

jewellery as they visit popular hubs, while inside China years of growth in demand for luxury goods is showing signs of slowing down due to an anti-corruption drive and weaker than expected economic growth. China’s rapid industrializa-tion and its emergence as the world’s second biggest economy after the United States, has fuelled a boom in Chinese demand for luxu-ry goods in recent years. Shoppers show an insatiable taste for well-known brands, from Rolex watches to Bulgari fine jewellery.

Chinese companies are expect-ed to start buying up international watches and jewellery brands increasingly in coming years in order to absorb some of China’s huge demand for luxury goods.

This month, the Swiss watch-maker Corum issued a statement that the company had been acquired by China Haidian. China Haidian said it had acquired 100 percent of Corum for 86 million Swiss francs. The sale is expected to anchor Chi-na Haidian’s position in the Swiss luxury watch sector.

Luxury watchmakers have expanded rapidly in recent years in Greater China, which includes Hong Kong, Macau and Taiwan as well as the mainland – and reported double-digit sales growth rates there until last summer. But now the region is being hit by the gov-ernment’s crackdown on gifts for favours, and is feeling the impact from a wider slowdown in the Chi-nese economy.

President Frank Wu of ttf.

Inspired by Tang poetry, the founder of Longio, Mi Changhong, is presenting his new work of art.

Necklace Lotus with-white jade, by ttf Haute

Joaillerie.

Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot, the Swiss luxury watch brand says, “Even though China is a big market, for Hublot it is a small market representing only 3 percent of our sales (excluding Hong Kong) taking place inside Mainland China.”

“Our challenge is to succeed in China. I have a potential of sales which is huge. I can do 10 times of what I am doing today. China is a big and difficult market. Step by step things are changing and we are working hard on the Mainland Chi-na market. We are a young brand with a unique concept.”

Hong Kong, part of China but ranked separately, holds the title as the biggest global customer for Swiss watches. Hong Kong import-ed 4.3 billion dollars in Swiss watches in 2012, a 6.8 percent increase from the previous year. Hong Kong, China and Singapore together accounted for more than a third of global sales. Yet, despite the region’s overall strength, trends in the Asian market varied widely. While Swiss watch exports to Hong Kong rose significantly, those to China increased only by 0.6 percent.

China reported 4 billion dollars in exports of watches and clocks in 2012, and said its total sales of 7.5 billion dollars rose by 10 percent. Lego S.H. Zhu, the Vice-President of the Shenzhen Watch & Clock Asso-ciation states, “Over 100 Chinese companies are using their Hong Kong or Swiss holding companies to showcase at BASELWORLD,” mak-ing the presence of China at the show significant.

GROWTH AT A FAST RATEChina has the largest press pres-ence at BASELWORLD this year, another indication of the impor-tance of its gem and jewellery sec-tor. Organisers of BASELWORLD said that one-seventh of the 3,500 journalists registered to cover the show were from China.

In 2011, ttf Haute Joaillerie became the first Chinese jewellery company to exhibit its collections in the prestigious Hall 2.1. In 2012, ttf Haute Joaillerie invited French craftsman Serge Nedot to become its technical supervisor of high jew-ellery. Having worked for top inter-national brands, including Bouch-eron, he brought 42 years of experi-ence to ttf. President Frank Wu of ttf,

headquartered in Shenzhen, reveals, “70 percent of our business is in the local market, which is growing very fast in the high jewellery segment. In the past three years, we have seen more than 15 percent annual growth in the Chinese market. The global luxury brands want to enter China as they know that the market is growing at an unbelievable rate.”

CHINESE LUXURY SHOPPERS ABROADAs Beijing continues its campaign against official public luxury spend-ing, wealthy Chinese tourists have increased their spending overseas. An executive summary by FT China Confidential on outbound Chinese shoppers highlighted the impacts of this free-spending contingent on the luxury industries. “China’s middle-class affinity with overseas travel is set to burgeon in 2013, with the wealthiest 26 percent of outbound tourists spending an average of 43,770 Chinese yuan (7,032 US dol-lars) on each trip,” it said.

ONLINE LUXURY PURCHASESA recent study by KPMG said that of the 538 million Chinese who regu-larly use the internet, 40 percent of the wealthy Chinese interviewed expressed an increased interest in shopping online, compared to only 22 percent in 2011. The main rea-son wealthy Chinese browse the internet is to compare products online (76 percent of those inter-

“70 percent of our business is in the local market, which is growing very fast in the

high jewellery segment.”Frank Wu

Inspired by Tang poetry, the founder of Longio, Mi Changhong, is presenting his new work of art.

CHINESE WATCHES & CLOCKS IN 2012

Sales Value 16.33%

Export Value 11.21%

Total Sales Rate 98.03%

Total Sales Value 10% $ billion

Export Volume 1.46 billion pieces

Export Volume $ 4 billion

Import Volume 6.9 million pieces

Import Value $ 3.5 billion

CHINESE JEWELLERIES IN 2012

Total Sales $ 30 billion

Export $ 15 billion

Import $ 6.5 billion

viewed) and identify the lowest price (65 percent). However, many wealthy Chinese still refrain from actual online purchases (72 per-cent) for fear of buying a counterfeit product; and 55 percent are con-cerned about after sales service.

45MARKETSWEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013

The last time pearl jewel-lery wrote style history was during the reign of King Edward VII of England, between 1901

and 1910. This so-called Edwardian style was shaped by his wife, the Danish princess Alexandra and was defined by the use of platinum, dia-monds and pearls, particularly in the form of long chains. Her style characterised the Roaring Twenties across the globe. It was fitting that Mikimoto developed a method of cultivating pearls almost at the same time as this new fashion emerged. But this new discovery was both a curse and a blessing. On the one hand, it enabled broader categories of society to afford pearl jewellery. But on the other, the Chi-nese began to create cheap mass-produced goods from pearls and have now been flooding the market with freshwater cultured pearls for decades. This has permanently damaged the price and mystique of pearls.

Pearl jewellery has been a clas-sic ever since and should be found in almost every jewellery box. This jewel of the sea has become a little outdated and is often only worn on rare occasions, causing it to be classed as a niche category at jewel-lery stores. People who already own a chain of pearls see no reason to purchase another one. Attempts to give pearl jewellery a younger image and thereby reinvigorate sales continue. But without great success. In the USA, pearl jewellery

accounts for just 2 percent of the turnover in the specialist sales cat-egory. The situation is not much better in Germany. The following tips show how jewellers can improve business with this treasure of the seas:

1. Emphasise the uniqueness of pearls: Pearls are the only jewels which nature supplies us ready to wear. It is a truly unadulterated wonder. Pearls also reflect an unspoilt natural environment. After all, pearl oysters react with extreme sensitivity to any pollution. Pearls can only be farmed in com-pletely clean and nutrient-rich water. Pearls are therefore an eco-logically harmless product. And what’s more, every pearl is just as unique as its wearer. No two pearls are the same.

2. Romanticise the origin of the pearls: Every pearl tells a story of an unspoilt natural landscape, tur-quoise-blue waters, lagoons, coral reefs, colourful fish, tropical beach-es with palm trees and a Japanese tradition. These associations should be evoked in the consumer. The origin of the different pearl types should therefore be identified and explained. These motifs could also be used in targeted advertising and at the point of sale.

3. Ensure you and your sales staff are prepared for the sales discussion: The range of qualities and prices of pearl jewellery are

extremely broad. This should be explained to the customer in a plausible manner. The origins, col-our, size, lustre, surface, layer thick-ness etc. are all quality features which should be clearly explained. Staff should be well-versed in the differences between the significant pearl types. We recommend attend-ing training sessions such as those offered by the big suppliers.

4. Present a wide range of pearl jewellery: Selling pearl jewellery successfully requires the full diver-sity to be presented. This applies both to the different types of pearls and the price categories which should range from the entry-level category to premium products. Only then can young customers, too, be persuaded to purchase pearl jewel-lery. Stylistic diversity should also be covered.

5. Be creative with your dis-play window designs: Highlight a particularly opulent necklace, a unique designer item or jewellery recently worn by a celebrity in your shop window. This will direct the attention to your product range. Avoid exhibiting pearl jew-ellery in the conservative corner with diamond or gold jewellery. Instead give this treasure of the seas its own platform. A longing for paradise and pearl jewellery can be evoked using images of South Sea beaches, underwater worlds and decorative items such as shells and fine sand.

6. Wear pearl jewellery: You and your sales staff should wear what you want to sell. After all, how can customers be expected to be enthu-siastic about a product if the jewel-ler does not show confidence in it? Ideally, female sales staff should combine the pearl jewellery with a T-shirt and jeans to show how youthful and varied pearl jewellery can be.

7. Demonstrate that pearl jewel-lery is youthful: Focus on young and fashionable pearl jewellery designs, for example combined with silver, steel or leather. This will allow you to combat the prejudice held by many consumers that pearls are old-fashioned. All manufactur-ers are now offering youthful rang-es at attractive entry-level prices.

8. Organise events relating to pearls: Attract attention to pearl jewellery by holding events in rela-tion to your pearl jewellery offer. Organise a pearl week, for example, where everything at your store rotates around your pearl jewellery offering. You could also host an evening event during this week. During the event, you could screen films or give talks to your customers about pearl farming. You can also demonstrate how pearl jewellery fits in with modern fashions during a fashion show, perhaps in collabo-ration with a neighbouring bou-tique. You have the opportunity to present the full range of your offer. Suppliers support such events.

PEARLS AS EVERYDAY COMPANIONSPEARL JEWELLERY NEEDS TO EMERGE FROM ITS DUSTY HIDING PLACE. THIS CLASSIC ITEM FEATURES IN THE JEWELLERY BOX OF VIRTUALLY EVERY WOMAN, YET IT IS OFTEN REGARDED PURELY AS A SOURCE OF REVENUE. by Axel Henselder

Pearls from London Pearl (London).

Pearls from Ruppenthal.

TAG Heuer is the world‘s fourth largest producer of luxury watches and chrono-

graphs. In addition to the first Ger-man boutique, opened last year in Munich, a second is now planned for Goethestraße, the premium shopping district at the heart of Frankfurt. From September on, TAG Heuer fans should have the oppor-tunity to immerse themselves in the over 150-year history (1860-2013) of the brand on a two-storey area of over 100 square metres. Alongside the latest technical creations from the haute horlogerie workshop of the brand the familiar TAG Heuer series Formula 1, Aquaracer, Link/Link Lady, Carrera/Grand Carrera and Monaco will be on display, ensuring a unique shopping experi-ence in the banking metropolis. In addition to the watches, customers will also be able to purchase luxury mobile phones, glasses and acces-sories of the brand here.

SECOND BOUTIQUEFOR TAGHEUER

1.0, D01

The rich and super rich in China continue to treat them-selves to luxury. They have

even displaced the USA from the top spot as buyers of sophisticated and expensive goods. The growing number of middle-class and rich Chinese with more than 12.5 mil-lion euros and the 251 dollar- billionaires in the country are responsible for about 25 percent of worldwide sales of luxury goods in China and abroad, the consultancy Bain & Co. has discovered. In sec-ond place is the USA with 20 per-cent, followed by the Japanese, who purchase 14 percent of luxury goods. However, warning signs can also be seen in this boom market. China’s millionaires have become significantly more cautious when it comes to spending their money, not least because they have lost a lot of money on the stock exchange. The efforts of the Chinese government to fight corruption are also having an effect. Watch providers have observed that Chinese officials have become far more cautious when it comes to accepting excessively gen-erous gifts. Nevertheless, the luxury market in China will remain prom-ising for a further 10 years, espe-cially until Europe and the USA have overcome their crises, fore-casts Bain. (ahe)

CHINESE TREATTHEMSELVESTO LUXURY

46 MARKETSWEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013

FROM A SINGLE SOURCE

STRATEGIC MOVENEW RETAIL STRATEGIES REQUIRED

OBRIST BUILDS TRADE SHOW STAND FOR BASELWORLD

GERMAN RETAIL PROFITS FROM GUESTS FROM THE FAR EAST

by Axel Henselder

by Markus Strehlitz

by Axel Henselder

In the coming years we will be faced with one of the most far-reaching changes to affect retail. On the one hand, tech-nological developments such

as mobile payment and smart prog-nostics are changing expectations with regard to buying and selling. However, anyone focusing solely on this technology will fail to recognise the actual strategic change that is occurring in sales. This is the con-clusion of a new trend study con-ducted by the German trend research institute 2b.ahead Think-Tank. Author of the trend analysis is Sven Gabor Janszky, trend and future researcher and Director of the think tank. He describes how, in addition to mobile payment, we are currently experiencing a funda-mental change in values in our sales processes. This is leading to a far-reaching transformation of our markets. The former market pyra-mid with economy, standard and

BASELWORLD has been very successful for the shop-fitter Obrist. “A lot of visitors were inter-ested in our stand,” says

Martin Wiedmer, Interior Designer at Obrist. The best advertisement for the Swiss company can be seen on the ground floor in Hall 1. The Rolex stand was produced and installed by Obrist. “Our greatest strength is that we can offer every-thing from one place – the design,

The tourist barometer of the financial services provider Global Blue indicates that

traders in Germany achieve the most tax-free sales with Chinese tourists. These were responsible for a 31-percent share, followed by Rus-sian tourists with 23 percent. The following places were occupied by Switzerland, the United Arab Emir-ates, Japan, Brazil, Thailand, Tai-wan, the Ukraine and Kuwait. The most popular cities for foreign shop-pers in the period from January to December were Munich and Frank-furt am Main, with 22 percent each. These two cities were followed by Berlin (15 percent), Düsseldorf (7 percent), Hamburg (5 percent), Cologne, also 5 percent. 3 percent and less was recorded for Metzin-

gen, Stuttgart, Nuremberg and Dres-den. Amongst Chinese tourists pur-chases of watches and jewellery were most popular, at 53 percent of purchases. An average of over 600 euros was spent in the shops. In the period from January to September 2012 Russian visitors spent an aver-age of 351 euros on shopping, 44 percent more than in the same peri-od the previous year. The most important sectors here are fashion and clothing, followed by visits to department stores and, at 12 per-cent, the purchase of watches and jewellery. The largest increase in sales with Russian tourists was recorded in Dresden, with growth of 99 percent, and in Baden-Baden, with an increase of 80 percent. How-ever, this does not alter the fact that

the most popular city in Germany for Russians is Munich (30 percent), followed by Berlin, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt am Main and Hamburg. Somewhat surprisingly, Arab tour-ists are primarily interested in fash-ion and clothing (44 percent). This is followed by purchases in depart-ment stores (16 percent) and then watch and jewellery outlets (13 per-cent). The average shopping price increased by 37 percent to 296 euros per shop receipt in the time from January to September 2012 com-pared to the same period the previ-ous year. Alongside Munich, Frank-furt, Düsseldorf, Berlin and Ham-burg, Cologne, Bonn, Ingolstadt, Stuttgart and Metzingen are pre-ferred shopping locations for Arab visitors.

SHOPPING BEHAVIOUR OF TOURISTS

premium areas no longer exists in this form in the majority of seg-ments. In future there will only be two segments of real significance: the economy level and the premium segment.

The future of sales will differ markedly in both areas: the econo-my level will be determined by the individual and adaptive weighing up of quality and price in the future. Here the customers trust the recom-mendations on their phones more than the sales personnel. In the pre-mium segment, in contrast, shop-pers consciously switch off their electronic sales assistants, because the buying decision is not depend-ent upon quality and price. Products and brands act as identity managers for the customer in this segment. In total, 214 experts were interviewed, the majority managers of market-leading companies. Using this as a basis, the study describes the ten most important trend fields for sales.

Germany is the preferred shopping location in Europe.

SALES SEGMENTS TODAY AND IN 2020

Source: 2b.ahaed Trend Study

Ishu Datwani from Anmol

Jewellers.The Obrist stand at BASELWORLD.

production, installation and associ-ated logistics,” says Wiedmer. “The big challenge with the Rolex stand was the short time frame available to us,” Wiedmer continues. The entire project including the produc-tion and installation had to be com-pleted within a year.

BASELWORLD is the only trade show for which Obrist constructs stands. Otherwise the company focus-es on developing stores for the watch and jewellery industry.

What is your impression of BASELWORLD this year?

“I have come after a gap of 6 years and I’m very impressed. I regret

missing out on the last 6 editions. The quality of the exhibitors is very

high.” Why do you think it’s important to

attend the show? “It provides a retailer like me, who is interested in fine jewellery, the opportunity to not only find good

suppliers, but be inspired to go back home and make new and innovative

jewellery.” Is it easy for you to locate the companies you want to visit?

“This year, all the halls are very well organised and the BASELWORLD

App makes it so convenient to navi-gate and access the stands.”

“The quality of the exhibitors is

very high”


Phot

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1.1, E70

HALL 1.1 B83

Bulova_Baselworld_Day7_May_1st_issue_Layout 1 3/26/13 5:55 PM Page 1

JEWELLERYWEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013

ICELINK CLASSIC JEWELLERY FROM THE ITALIAN FASHION HOUSE VERSACESNOW COLLECTION OF ICE FUELLED JEWELLERYby Christel Trimborn

The meander pattern, inspired by the Ancient Greeks, is one of Versace’s typical and ever-

recurrent designs. This adornment represented eternity in Antiquity and is now also featured on the watch faces and bezels of men’s and women’s watches and in the latest Greca jewellery range. Designers at this Italian lux-ury company u n d e r s t a n d how to bring contemporary

DEFINED BY ELEGANCE AND GRANDEZZA

HIGHLIGHTS52 ODES TO LOVE de Grisogono’s Creative

Director Fawaz Gruosi has been composing melodies in jewellery for twenty years. In his opinion, creating a piece of jewellery is all about expressing emotions.

60 COMPLETE BRIDAL SOLUTIONS

London-based company Stubbs presents a range of bridal suites. Director Eran Shem-Tov talks about how his products can help jewel-lers to their own brand.

62 BEYOND PRECIOUS METALS

The cutting-edge men’s col-lection of Barakà tell stories of adventures as well as eve-ryday life, as Sales Manager Alberto Muraro states in the interview with BWDN.

72 SAFE AND SECURE When handed over to the

customer, valuable jewellery and watches should be pack-aged in a case that is appro-priate.

81 A FABOULOUS MINIATURE ZOO

Gemstones are not only for jewellery – they can also be artistically carved to amazing sculptures.

REBECCA: A ‘YOUNG’ AND RAPIDLY GROWING BRANDInterview by Gloria Belloni

A turnover of 33 million euros achieved in just 10 years. Innovation and new technology are the key features

offered by Industrie Testi S.p.A., a company with a number of success-ful and ‘historic’ brands to its name, including Rebecca.

The first house brand was named after the eldest daughter in the Testi family. It is dedicated to jewellery packed with personality and characterised by innovative and rather unusual materials. Rebecca focuses particularly on the world of fashion and its reference points, as well as on communica-tion, investing more than any other jeweller in the main women’s and fashion publications. Its creations

doubled our points of sale over the last year. Last but not least, the Ital-ian market is continuing to record two-figure increases every year, despite the difficult period, so that in the coming months we will be opening single-brand stores in Naples, Salerno and Venice.

Does your company have an e-commerce strategy ?We have already started up an e-commerce project, fuelled by the need to raise awareness of our brand, especially amongst young people who tend to buy online and, above all, search for information on the web.

Rebecca Testi.

Oversize bangle in rhodium-plated bronze and glam film.

2.2, G35

IN THE SPOT

Style The German, Pforzheim-based jewellery manufacture Cédé has been working with the renowned Atelier Tom Munstein-er from Stipshausen near Idar-Oberstein for many years. The gemstone designers create stones exclusively for Cédé. New to the Munsteiner collection are these square rock crystals with a star-shaped cut on the reverse, giving the stones a very individual appearance. Background The jewellery brand Cédé represents creativity and unmistakeable design in gold and platinum. The items of jewellery bear the signature of international designers. Material 18k yellow gold, rock crystal and amethyst. There are also designs featuring numerous natural, untreated gemstones such as aquamarine, tourmaline quartz, morganite etc. Where to spot: 2.1, F01

CédéMunsteiner Collection

A STYLISH UNION OF TECHNOLOGY AND RESEARCH

are sold in around 1,300 jewellery shops throughout Italy, and also worldwide. Rebecca Testi, daughter of the Group’s Chairman and designer Alessandro Testi , talks to BWDN about plans for the future.

BWDN: How is the Rebecca brand positioned today within Industrie Testi?Rebecca Testi: Rebecca continues to be our key brand. Rebecca inter-prets the tastes and fashions of the modern women, who see jewellery as a fashion accessory.

What are your highlights at BASELWORLD? The collections we are presenting at BASELWORLD are designed to suit all tastes, but the one thing they have in common is the use of stones, which we try to show off in all their glory: large or small, coloured or white with drops of light, stones are the true stars. All our pieces are strictly made in Italy, at our head-quarters in Empoli, near Florence. This represents an important added value, as well as an irrefutable hall-mark of quality.

Which markets will you be focus-ing on in the near future?Rebecca is currently marketed in over 40 countries worldwide,

through over 2,000 points of sale. The markets we are currently focusing on are China, where we will be opening three single-brand stores, the Caribbean, where we are achieving excellent results, and the Middle East, where we already have two single-brand stores in Dubai and will probably open a third. We have achieved our best results in former Soviet countries such as Armenia, Azerbaijan and Georgia. In Europe, the best per-formances have been recorded in Greece and Scandinavia, which have produced record figures. We are also planning to open new shops in the UK, where we have

new interpretations to the motif. With a particular curved shape, the new Greca line presents pendants, earrings, bangles and bands char-acterised by precious stones such as diamonds, blue sapphires, red

rubies and emeralds. In addition to the Greca, Barocco, Twist and Croc-odile Medusa jewellery ranges, elaborately decorated cocktail rings are among this year’s highlights. Genuine Versace fans will love the opulent, elaborately detailed rings

which come with addi-tional chain links.

Like all Versace items of jewel-lery, the items are hand-made from 18K gold.

1.1 , E67

Versace Greca.

50 JEWELLERYWEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013

CAÏ JEWELS – For fash-ion-conscious individual-ists: this year, once again, caï jewels demonstrates its nose for fashion with a new collection of silver

jewellery. In keeping with this year’s trend colour emerald green the Pforzheim-based Ger-man label offers expres-sive rings, earrings and necklaces in sterling sil-ver, which bring radiance to the deep green colour. (cete)

FABERGÉ – Contemporary master jeweller, introduces the Viera Collec-tion of cocktail rings, inspired by spec-tacular, precious coloured gemstones, artfully encased in exquisite mounts of white diamonds in a variety of regal designs. The collection is inspired by a buried Fabergé treasure, recovered in 1990. Set with for example exception-al emeralds, rubies, aquamarines, spi-nels, fire opals, padparadscha sap-phires, the Viera Rings celebrate the unique beauty of precious coloured gemstones. (nh)

NOOR – Noor’s Lady Flamingo cel-ebrates the most beautiful secrets created by Mother Nature – a journey worthy of discovery. Nature satisfies our cravings for rare and beautiful things and new facets and colour interactions in precious gemstones and diamonds can be discovered at Noor. And those who may prefer a more understated natural look can discover a subdued elegance in brown, colourless and black dia-monds. (nh)

NEWS

2.0, F71

1.1, A13

2.1, A41

Davite & Delucchi is an avant-garde company, producing jewellery that stands out for

its detailed design and high manu-facturing quality. Its latest collec-tions of fashion jewellery are packed with colour.

This company signs its collec-tions DD Gioielli, an expression of

PURE FEMININITYDAVITE & DELUCCHI FOCUS ON THE LATEST TRENDSby Gloria Belloni

The Davite & Delucchi stand.

hues of the day. As always, its items offer good value for money and the various collections are designed to cater to all styles: from classic and timeless looks, to those suited to a younger and more glamorous clien-tele who love to flaunt their feminin-ity in keeping with the latest trends.

Of course, jewellery set with dia-monds and precious stones cannot be described as fashion accessories, but pieces like this can be inspired by the latest fashions, successfully encompassing them in creations with contemporary forms and col-ours. Indeed, Davite & Delucchi believes this to be essential and has actively chosen to market its prod-ucts through major communication campaigns in all the main fashion and contemporary lifestyle maga-zines, endorsed by stars from the world of film and show business.

This Valenza-based company has been operating on the European market for some time and is now consolidating its exports to the Rus-sian market and the Far East, two areas where its creations are widely appreciated and arousing particular interest. During these difficult times, Davite & Delucchi’s main strategic investment, in addition to expansion abroad, is to preserve its current position while strengthening its part-nerships with clients.

PRECIOUS AND UNCONVENTIONALAT GAVELLO, DESIGN IS CONSTANTLY EVOLVINGInterview by Gloria Belloni

tions with antique coins mounted in innovative ways. And, finally, it will come as no surprise that there are some pieces with a rock influence: gothic-dark skulls, swords and coats of arms in oxidised silver, the first time this metal has appeared in our collections.

Any classic pieces?There is our ergonomic jewellery, such as the Corpo range, where gold plays a leading role, in forms that embrace and envelop the arms and hands, following their move-ments. They are an absolute pleas-ure to wear.

Are your target markets chang-ing? Like all growing businesses, we are looking to the emerging markets, and above all to the East and to South America. These are markets that we believe will understand and appreciate both our design philoso-phy and our taste.

From the early 1970s through to the present day, Gavello has always been a family affair. What are the main challenges you face today?The challenge is to never relent in the creative process, since it is our design which truly sets us apart. We have always combined innovation and sophistication, with a particular focus on quality and style.

When it comes to marketing, are you considering new approaches for the future, including the Inter-net, for example?We have been online for some time, and we believe it to be the quickest and most immediate way to present ourselves to an ever-growing num-ber of people. Having said that, our jewellery needs to be “felt”: it takes on life as soon as it is put on. Ga-vello jewellery is magical and mag-ic is not yet available in virtual form. If it cannot be touched, it must at the very least be observed up close.

Over forty years ago, Rinaldo Gavello and his wife Mar-tha started out

on a creative journey, com-bining beauty and function-ality to form jewellery that draws its inspiration from a wide range of highly sym-bolic themes. The Gavello collections combine universally recog-nised symbols with sinuous, ergonomic forms, the result of careful design, constant research, the latest tech-nology and skilful crafts-manship. The Milan-based company’s develop-ment continues to-day with Design and Brand Identity Manager Elisabet-ta Gavello at the helm. She tells BWDN about the new developments for 2013.

BWDN: Strong sym-bols and dark shades: where is the company’s creativity heading? Elisabetta Gavello: Our strongest point has always been the fact that we refuse to conform the rock aspect of my character has always shone through. In fact, it is perhaps

our most frequently recur-ring stylistic feature. Life is our inspiration, and we create jewellery to wear forever, items that be-come an integral part of

our personality.

What new products for 2013 are you presenting here

at BASELWORLD?Lots of colour and large, luscious stones. We aim to offer people the pleasure of wearing pieces of jewel-lery that appear unique, but are in fact accessible and highly recognis-able. We are reinventing past tradi-

Elisabetta Gavello, Design and Brand Identity Manager.

Anthea collection, pendant with ruby pavé setting.

its exclusive Italian production and unique craftsmanship. It has opted for a simple style and sober ele-gance, using innovative solutions in the creation of its pieces. With its philosophy inspired by the very highest production quality, the crea-tive mind of Fausto Delucchi is able to infuse each line with a unique

and distinctive design. Davite & Delucchi Gioielli has been operat-ing on the inter-

national market for forty years, since

the very start of its rise to fame in the jewellery sector. Its precious and sophisti-cated collections are

key to its success. From a production point of view, the brand focuses strongly on offering a wide variety of models, including jewellery set with diamonds, semi-precious stones and coloured stones. It also offers a wide range of wed-ding rings, designed to complement its two jewellery lines and make this important moment truly unforgetta-ble. Its collections, with their classic but highly fashionable designs, are positioned at the mid-top end of the market.

NEW COLLECTIONSHere at BASELWORLD, Davite & Delucchi is presenting a number of new fashion jewellery collections: a riot of precious and semiprecious stones in many different colours, ranging from the signature shades of deep blue and shades of brown, to encompass all the most fashionable

Rings in white gold with, diamonds and sapphires.

2.2, C01

2.2, E10

Jaipur Link Collection,


CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF DE GRISOGONO, FAWAZ GRUOSI SERENADES BASELWORLD WITH COLOURSby Nina Hald

The creations of de Gri-sogono springs from founder and Creative Director Fawaz Gruosi’s mind, as odes to love,

beauty and to the splendour of the seasons, summoning the precious-ness of nature and the emotions. Fawaz Gruosi brings his new jewel-lery collection to life in the lan-guage he knows best: the language of radiant colourful gemstones.

For twenty years, Fawaz Gruosi has been composing melodies in jewellery; music that he has been singing to women across the world, like a magic song. The choice of gemstones is where it all begins. Each gem is chosen for its individu-al beauty – its colour, light and intensity – regardless of its price or prestige. It is not only the combina-tion of gemstones that delights and surprises, but also the mix of col-ours. Because even though Fawaz Gruosi may love to work with matching monochromes, he also

adores breaking all the traditional colour codes by mixing colours such as greens, reds and blues, yel-lows and greens, browns and aqua-marines. This year seems dedicated to a majestic purple, a regal blue and the succulent turquoise.

In Fawaz Gruosi’s opinion high jewellery is more than creating a jewellery piece; it is about transmit-ting a feeling, making a woman dream while draped in a high jew-elry necklace, ring bracelet or ear-rings. “It is all about that iridescent reverie of a perfect moment shared between a woman and jewellery creation,” as Fawaz Gruosi says to the BASELWORLD Daily News. And his views are clear: “The most important thing for a jewellery brand on the luxury market today is to keep re-inventing itself – and to compliment a woman’s true beauty, never stealing it. Because after all, beauty – of all kinds of gemstones – is best reflected in women,” Fawaz Gruosi finishes. 1.1, D39

PIPPO PEREZ AND THE POWER OF A WINNING STRATEGYInterview by Gloria Belloni

The key figures in what ini-tially appeared to be a well-planned venture, are now a

highly successful team that com-prises the jewellery creator, Pippo Perez, an established descendent of a family of jewellers dating back to the 15th century, Maurizio Marchi, Commercial Director, with many years of experience working with major brands and Michele Capalbo, Financial Director with extensive experience. Maurizio Marchi dis-cusses the main stages in this jour-ney with BWDN and presents the new products on display at BASEL-WORLD.

BWDN: How did the ‘new’ Pippo Perez come about?Maurizio Marchi: I formed Officium S.r.l., a jewellery distribution com-pany, in 2006 with Michele Capal-bo. Our first experience with the Pippo Perez jewellery line was so positive that it led to the decision to form a company two years later. What was the winning idea?I would say there has been more than one. In terms of the product and commercial strategy, this initial experi-ment has sent out a strong mes-

TALENT AND A BIT OF GOOD LUCK

sage, earning the right for a place in the world of jewellery for an unu-sual and easy-to-wear bracelet, the famous Brazilian scooby-doo brace-let, reinterpreting it with sophisti-cated and precious elements. Sec-ondly, we have focused on a close partnership between marketing, financial and design skills. We have a precise target: people with a sense of irony, attracted by the idea of

What are the characteristics that identify a piece of Pippo Perez jewellery?Pieces of Pippo Perez jewellery are life and travel companions. The phi-losophy behind our jewellery is inspired by encounters with differ-ent cultures: the collection themes reproduce universal symbols and refer back to traditions packed with meaning and positive values. Ethics and mutual respect guide us in our relations with our partners and also mean that we are strongly commit-ted to charitable initiatives.

Tell me about the new products you are presenting at BASEL-WORLD. The new products we are present-ing at BASELWORLD include col-lections with pieces inspired by Tibet and its spirituality, such as the infinity knot, symbol of the unbroken relationship between giver and receiver, and the fish, which recall the couple. We have also drawn inspiration from the Navajo people, whose traditions include meaningful symbols that can be shared by everyone, what-ever their religious beliefs. Pre-cious stones and lots of colour are a real must. Naturally, we will con-tinue to explore distant cultures in the future.

Ring in white gold, set with a cabochon-cut amethyst, colourless diamonds, emeralds, peridots, pink sapphires and amethysts.

Pink gold ring with 204 diamonds

(2.3 carats).

Ladybird in white gold, white diamonds, black diamonds and rubies. 2.1, F20


What is your impression of BASELWORLD?

“I have considered BASELWORLD to be the most important fair

for me since 1983, when I started coming, and I am happy to see the

rejuvenation of the fair.” What would you recommend

to other visitors? “Hard work; that is what a fair is

all about – and it demands that you are able to make the tough economic decisions fast.”

What are you especially looking for? “I am always looking for new trends,

materials, combinations of gemstones and the cut of the

stones, and for general inspiration, knowledge and networking.”

“I am happy to see the rejuvenation of

the fair.”

Earrings in white gold, set with cabochon-cut

amethysts, colourless dia-monds, emeralds, periddots,

rubies, pink sapphires and amethysts.

Conrad Langaard Senior, Juvelér Langaard (Norway) – founder of the company and gemmologist.

wearing a top quality piece of jewel-lery with a “pop” design. We also have strong points in terms of distri-bution: we work directly with shops, particularly those in prestigious tourist destinations. We are there-fore able to reach an international clientele and assess which markets we should enter. Countries in East and South-East Asia currently seem to be the most promising.

Maurizio Marchi, Commercial Director of Pippo Perez.

THE BEWITCHING MELODY GOES ON

55JEWELLERYWEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013

Men’s rings in titanium with diamonds.

IT’S A MAN’S WORLDFROM WATCHES TO THE “TOTAL LOOK”, ZANCAN ALWAYS STANDS OUT FROM THE CROWD

LEADERLINE PRESENTS A FEMININE NEW CERAMICS COLLECTION

Interview by Gloria Belloni

by Christel Trimborn

The investments made over recent years by this Vicenza-based company have produced excellent results. Robertino Zan-

can, chairman and founder of the company of the same name, tells BWDN about how the company has achieved its targets so quickly.

BWDN: You exhibited at BASEL-WORLD for the first time in 2012. Have the watches you presented there been a success?Robertino Zancan: I would say they have been a huge success, albeit a rather unexpected one. Last year, here in the Mecca of watchmaking, we presented a type of product with strong links to the world of jewel-lery, almost representing an exten-sion of jewellery for men. This is our most successful line, which acts as a perfect complement to current jewellery collections. As a result, we have been able to position ourselves properly and achieve good results in Switzerland too, where we obvi-

The Blue White Group is based in Milan in northern Italy and offers high quality “made in

Italy” jewellery to demanding cus-tomers. Elegance, innovation and extreme accuracy are the key-words which characterise the two JJewels Milano and LeaderLine Milano brands. Being a well-estab-

BLACK & WHITE & LIGHT

ously face some extremely high competition in the watch sector. This year the collection has been further enhanced by the introduc-tion of high-tech materials such as titanium, combined with gold and diamonds.

The line of men’s accessories also enjoyed a great debut. Are you continuing with this “Total Look” project?Absolutely. Our range of men’s accessories can be customised and embellished with elements in pre-

Zancan chrono-graph watches.

Robertino Zancan, Chairman and Founder of Zancan.

cious materials and diamonds. It begins with classic products such as belts, bags and wallets, going on to include iPad holders, work fold-ers and a range of indispensable objects for the businessman of today. All these items are dedicated to those who love to stand out, even in the small details. In fact, thanks to the inclusion of real jew-ellery elements, each accessory can be considered a unique piece.

Are your products popular on the international markets?Zancan offers such a wide range of jewellery, watches and accessories that it is able to cater to the most diverse tastes, despite all our crea-tions having one thing in common: the desire not to go unnoticed. Zancan has been something of a pioneer as regards the male target, which is not an easy one. Men have simple but clear-cut require-ments when it comes to style, and errors are unpardonable. Zancan creations are appreciated all over

the world, including China and Russia, markets that we have con-sidered to be very interesting for some time, as well as in Northern Europe and Central and South America.

What are you planning to invest in over the coming months?We will certainly continue to focus on expanding the company on an international level, focusing on top-of-the-range products, espe-cially as regards the East. We are well positioned in points of sale dedicated to men’s watches and we intend to grow further. We are also interested in trying out new paths, such as the cruise ship circuit. Ten years ago we were one of the first to believe in the men’s segment, even overcoming a number of obstacles. Now the path seems smoother, thanks in part to our strictly Italian-made quality, which supports and contributes to pro-moting our creations around the world.

lished brand for more than 30 years, LeaderLine Milano has been work-ing endlessly on experimentation and research for the design and cre-ation of its jewellery. Ceramic is one of the materials used by LeaderLine Milano in various different ranges and always in combination with 18 karat gold and diamonds. Since the

graphically designed, voluminous ceramic rings have been a successful part of the collection for a few years now, the new Keramik Loop collec-tion is being presented at this year’s BASELWORLD for the first time: ornamentally designed earrings in black and white ceramics – high quality with the addition of an individual rose gold flower and decorated with diamond accents. And an added bonus: the new Keramik Loop ear-rings are ultra-light and comfortable to wear while the low precious metal content makes them particularly great value.

2.1, J80

2.1, L51

Earrings from LeaderLine’s Keramik Loop collection.

Earrings from LeaderLine’s Keramik Loop collection.


STRICTLY HAND-MADEPRESERVING A MARKED IDENTITY AND SETTING TRENDS

A. GERSTNER PRESENTS WEDDING RINGS IN CLEAR DESIGN

R. DEMEGLIOS’ NEW FLEXIBLE BRACELETS

Interview by Annalisa Fontana

by Axel Henselder

by Roberto Chilleri

Kdi Kuore is a company founded in 1996 as a result of the meeting between Giuliano Giannini and a group

of fashion and jewellery profession-als, with the objective of creating fashionable pieces in original shapes and sizes.

BWDN: Describe your path to international success over the last seventeen years.Giuliano Giannini: We focused heavily on taking part in the most important events and shows: Basel, Hong Kong, Qatar, Bahrain, Las Vegas, Tokyo and the three shows in Vicenza. This decision proved to be a winning one, because we suc-ceeded in acquiring prestigious cli-ents all over the world. We have always been very selective, orient-ing ourselves towards the very best retail outlets in each country, seek-ing a shared vision and culture. We currently work with agents in Italy,

MADE TO LAST A LIFETIME

JUST PURE ELEGANCE

Spain, France, Belgium, the Nether-lands, Greece, Portugal, the United States, Japan, Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia. Our participation in Basel 2013 is oriented towards research and the acquisition of new Northern European partners. We

have created four new lines targeted at the Northern European market for this year’s show.

Sum up 2012 and tell us about your expectations for 2013.As regards 2012, it was hard work

Giuliano Giannini and his son Filippo.

Rose gold and white diamond ring from the Excellence collection.

HOW’S BUSINESS?

David Shah, CEO of Aspire Designs Ltd.

“Aspire Designs is a design house whose flagship brand is MVee, our high-end fashion brand. We come here with European styling and great craftsmanship. We’ve also launched a new brand which is called Sawel, which is making its soft launch debut at BASELWORLD 2013. We’ve been getting positive comments about this collection.”

August Gerstner – The wedding ring specialist has brought along numerous new crea-

tions to BASELWORLD 2013. As sophisticated as bubbling cham-pagne, natural-coloured brilliant-cut diamonds sparkle on the ladies‘ ring in the latest collection. Surrounded by the flattering hue of the pink gold, these special diamonds are a refined

A perfect combination of craftsmanship and innova-tion are the key to the Domi-

no Matt & Shiny collection. Joints and elastic – hidden inside of jewels – are the result of Roberto Demeg-lio’s penchant for experimenting with new engineering-type solu-tions. Pared, balanced forms, Art Deco-inspired, Domino has all the qualities of a precious jewel but with an inner spring that makes each bracelet extremely flexible. In the photo, a polished and satinized ceramic bracelet, both with dia-monds mounted in white gold.

2.1, K50

Rose gold and white

diamond ring.

Bracelets from the Domino collection.

2.2, G23

detail, without dominating too strong-ly. The effect of these rings is sophisti-cated and subtle. The quiet and clear design underscores this further, whilst also ensuring a high degree of wearing comfort. The harmonious interaction of material and colour makes this collection a real eye catch-er. Ideal (not only) for women in search of the unusual.

Yellow gold and white diamonds.

2.1, K40

maintaining our current positions and continuing to invest in innova-tion. Once again, the focus for 2013 is ‘innovation’, both as regards our products and our marketing and communication strategies. Our first new products to be presented this year are the Excellence, Reverse, Mix and Origami lines. We have developed targeted projects in the marketing sector, starting with the customisation of shop window dis-plays, participation in advertising campaigns and advertising in trade magazines, with a view to partner-ing our clients rather than just act-ing as a supplier. We use our web-site and social networking channels to keep our clientele constantly up-to-date, while a quarterly newsletter provides information about new catalogues, special events and new collections.

Why choose a piece of K di Kuore jewellery?Because of its elegance and simplic-ity. It is this combination of innova-tion and sophistication that makes our jewellery so recognisable. All our creations are made entirely by hand, making each piece unique. K di Kuore is a contemporary cult, synonymous with glamour and cre-ativity. We make four hundred new pieces of jewellery every year, bear-ing witness to our dynamic creative and production work. We seek to update our collections constantly, while remaining faithful to our style guide.


TOUCHED BY THE STONENOMADES PRESENTS JEWELLERY FOR GLOBETROTTERS

THE EXPERTISE AND SAVOIR-FAIRE OF THE MAN BEHIND ZYDO

NINA RICCI PRESENTS JARDIN D’ÉTÉ

by Axel Henselder

Interview by Roberto Chilleri

by Christel Trimborn

My jewellery is designed for wom-en that travel a lot, who like to draw inspiration from

foreign countries,” says Susanne Asbeck, the proprietor of Nomades, and continues: “Self-assured wom-en such as these have seen a lot. I want to surprise them with my jew-ellery.” She achieves this with her statement pieces. Her designs are refreshingly different, powerful, sol-id and yet not flashy. “Well-travelled women such as these are confident and dynamic, just as I am. Delicate jewellery simply wouldn’t suit such energetic personalities,” says the German, Bonn-based jewellery designer. The focal point of her designs are often large, distinctive gemstones. Susanne Asbeck: “When

David Zybert, a jeweller to the bone, inherited his father’s knowledge of precious

stones, and in 1972 he founded his own company, initially for trading diamonds and pearls. Then he began designing jewellery and his true talent was revealed.BWDN: You grew up in the world of diamond traders, where rela-tionships are based mainly on trust. How did this influence you?David Zybert: My father taught me that it was important to be profes-sional and although his eyesight was not perfect he could assess a diamond with his naked eye like few others in the world.

When you traded stones in Italy there was a high demand. Why the change?Actually, when I made the decision, the situation was not one of the best, but perhaps there’s a simple expla-nation. Selling stones was no longer enough for me so I opened a work-shop where I could try to set them myself. I recruited top-class work-ers, who are never lacking in Valen-za, and we started right away with stunning diamonds and rare gem-stones. I was proud of my first results as a jeweller.

Do you believe there is a crucial skill for anyone who wants to be a jeweller?Not to be in a hurry. I had to author-ize the chief setter to forget the clock, because in jewellery making, haste or even a simple change of touch, can make a negative differ-ence.

How long have you been coming to BASELWORLD?More or less since I started making jewellery, so it must be 30 years ...

J ardin d’eté – Summergarden is the name of Nina Riccis cur-rent spring/summer 2013 col-

lection. Spirals, flowers and butter-flies, adorned with exhuberantly-shaped crystals in fresh and vari-ous colours, mingle to form a deli-cate bouquet in shades of pink and white. As in previous years, the jewellery perfectly complements the Nina Ricci fashion designs. Together they create a collection that combine feminine volumes with modernity and a dash of non-conformity. The Parisian couture house Nina Ricci, founded in 1932, today belongs to the French Groupe

GL. This organization, spe-cialized in creating, manufac-turing and distributing jewels, works for the most famous names in the luxury market, for example Nina Ricci, Inès de la Fressange and Kenzo.

THE GENTLEMANJEWELLER

TIME FOR SUMMER

I select stones I only take those that touch my heart.“ Inspired by the beauty of the stones, she then devel-ops her jewellery ideas. In the reali-sation of her projects she collabo-rates with experts from Germany and Italy. “I always approach the designs from the perspective of the jewellery wearer,” says the law graduate, who left a successful career as a manager to follow her love of beautiful jewellery. The piec-es should offer a high degree of wearing comfort and also be uncomplicated travelling compan-ions. The jewellery can be worn on every occasion, with every outfit. What is important is that it matches the wearer‘s personality. “I often confront my team with major chal-lenges because I don’t approach things with an eye to technical fea-

sibility, but with my visions,” says the designer. Together with her master goldsmith she then always finds a convincing solution. Nomades also offers exciting dia-mond jewellery. As far as diamonds are concerned she does not go for pure white qualities, as she finds “the mysterious dark shimmer of the stones much more attractive.” When setting the stones she avoids the standard pavé, instead turning to old techniques of the 20th centu-ry. The light is reflected almost mystically, the surface acquires a structure instead of appearing syn-thetically smooth. Each piece is unique. Taken together, the result is a collection that is as colourful and diverse as many breathtaking plac-es on earth. Ideal for the far-trav-elled individual.

David Zybert, Zydo.

Susanne Asbeck, owner of Nomades.

And for us the show has become even more important since we began brand policy. But I have to thank my children for that.

Are your two children in the com-pany like two pillars?I actually have three: Jack, who is now 35; Eli, who’s a year younger; and Roberto, who is 30. They stud-ied at Boston University and the GIA, then they asked me if they could join the company. Knowing how difficult our job is, I told them to think carefully but when I saw how keen they were, I welcomed them with open arms. In 2001 they even persuaded me to initiate branding. Today we share responsi-bilities and Eli lives in the United States, where many years ago we set up Italian Jewellery of America to distribute Zydo products from premises on the corner of Fifth Avenue and 46th Street. I’d say we’re a good team.

Your creations are also to be seen on the red carpet. When is a piece of jewellery suitable for an Oscar night?There’s a rule that applies not only when it comes to dressing the stars, but for high jewellery in general: when buying a luxury item, you may forget what you paid, but if there’s a flaw you’ll see it forever and you won’t want to wear your purchase.

Something in the jewellery world that no longer exists and that you regret?One thing above all: the widespread expertise of sector professionals. Once there were more people who could appreciate the quality of craftsmanship or recognize a natu-ral stone.

2.1, M91

2.1, M90

2.2, G45

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Hall 1.1, stand D35


YANA NESPER PRESENTS THE “LOOK OF THE MONTH“ IN BASELby Axel Henselder

STAURINO FRATELLI – When tackling a jewellery world classic like the animalier genre, it is no mean feat to come up with something new and surprising. Yet Italian brand Staurino Fratelli has hit a bullseye with its Crea-tures of the Abyss collection. Indeed, there are even amazing sea animals as innovative, unbelievably chic acces-sories. The Jelly Fish ring is part of this collection: rose gold, diamonds, pink sapphires and a splendid Namibian chalcedony. A true style icon that goes beyond the classic ring concept and which we might rightly call an orna-ment for the hand. (rc)

A nautical blazer with a stripy shirt and skinny jeans, royal blue loafers, a pair of retro

sunglasses and an oversized bag in radiant yellow. The perfect match: a double-row pearl bracelet with white gold clasp and pearl earrings from the Freshwater Classics collec-tion. Under the title Preppy Pearls, Yana Nesper displays nautical clas-sics in the style of the US prep-schoolers, highlighted in a sophisti-cated and sportily glamorous man-ner with radiant summer yellow. Yana Nesper, exclusive brand from Heinz Nesper of Pforzheim, is set to present a special pearl highlight each month on her relaunched homepage – the “Look of the month”. In keeping with seasonal and topical trends, Yana Nesper appeals to her

target customers directly, presenting ideas on how to wear pearl jewellery in a styl-ish and modern manner. “We use the trends to style the pearls youthfully and attractively, lend-ing them a modern twist in the proc-ess.” The d e s i g n e r knows what her custom-ers like, as she makes pearl jewellery “practical-ly for myself and my friends around the world,” for women that are inde-pendent, educated and sophisticated as well as interested in fashion and style.

MORE EMOTIONS FOR THE PEARL

NEWS

Yana Nesper at the stand.

BRIDES ARE LOOKING FOR EXCELLENCESTUBBS HELPS THE JEWELLER TO BE HIS OWN BRANDInterview by David Brough

Stubbs presents precision-engineered bridal suites. Eran Shem-Tov discusses how London-based Stubbs helps premium retailers

reach out to customers.

BWDN: What are the new collec-tions that Stubbs is presenting at BASELWORLD? Eran Shem-Tov: We present a range of bridal suites. Each suite matches a handmade solitaire mount with a wedding band and full or half eter-

nity ring. All the rings are preci-sion-engineered for a seamless flush fit. Using our system, retailers are not just selling an engagement ring. They are offering a complete bridal solution that encourages their customers to return to the store.

What is your brand philosophy?The most important brand in any jeweller’s business should be its own. The objective of our design, manufacturing and marketing teams

is to develop collections that are the finest expression of your brand’s values through innovative design, a passion for quality and reliability of execution. We can support you with elegant bespoke display solutions that promote your brand. Innovative tools like our retailer-branded Con-figureRing application are designed to enrich the shopping experience delivered in your store.

ConfigureRing is a ring configu-ration tool designed for use in-store on a tablet. It is unique in that it is

Director Eran Shem-Tov in the Stubbs workshop.

customised for retailers with both branding and price. Our offering was very well received at Basel last year so we are extending the range with even more styles.

What is special about the design/layout and location of the Stubbs stand?Our stand is designed to be open and inviting. Another element of our offering is display units person-alised with the retailer’s own logo and colour schemes. The display cases in the show are designed to highlight how our range would look in their shops.

In a packed calendar of interna-tional jewellery trade shows, what makes BASELWORLD so impor-tant for Stubbs to attend?It brings us a global audience of pre-mium retailers in a vibrant market-place of the industry’s best suppliers.

What are you looking for in Basel this year in terms of products, trends, networking possibilities?We have recently made a major investment in our workshop and would probably be looking for more equipment to support it.

What are your expectations for business in 2013 and how can BASELWORLD help Stubbs achieve stronger sales in a chang-ing retail environment?I am expecting to expand our export business significantly. BASELWORLD is the key event of the year.2.2, G82 2.1, M20

2.1, M60

Hall 1.1 - Booth E03Milano - www.utopia-jewels.com


PEARLS TO WEAREUROPEARLS TO LAUNCH NEW RANGE FOR PREMIUM BRAND YOKO

AN AMERICAN AVIATION LEGEND IS COMMEMORATED BY THE CLIPPER COLLECTION

Interview by David Brough

Interview by Annalisa Fontana

Muraro Lorenzo has 35 years of experience in the jewellery sector and cur-

rently has over 2500 points of sale in Italy and worldwide. Alberto Muraro is sales director at Barakà, the group‘s leading men’s fine jew-ellery brand.

BWDN: So, Mr Muraro, what’s new for Basel this year?Alberto Muraro: We are very com-mitted and enthusiastic, as always. However, this year we are going further than ever before, with a new stand, new display and new prod-ucts. It is definitely worth the effort. Basel is an international show with an international clientele and we will be attending with new products for our Comete and Barakà brands, which are the natural result of a company project and philosophy that go beyond precious materials.

Do all pieces of Barakà jewellery tell a story? What is this year‘s story?Barakà jewellery is luxurious due to its materials and style, but it also encompasses a story.

JEWELLERY FOR TALES OF ADVENTURE AND EVERYDAY LIFE

Barakà Clipper bracelet in rose gold and PVD steel with diamond clasp.

Barakà Clipper bracelet in yellow gold and PVD steel with black diamonds.

Alberto Muraro, Barakà Sales Manager.

EuroPearls earrings.

Clipper is our latest product. This limited edition was inspired by a seaplane named Pacific Clipper, which went down in history. In fact, this historic plane was ordered not to return to Pearl Harbour, which had just been attacked by the Japa-nese, and instead completed the

epic feat of flying 11,000 miles over all the continents in radio silence and without an escort. Designed to fly over the sea, it had to travel much of the journey over the deserts and forests of India, Arabia and Africa, before landing in New York on January 6, 1942.

The inspiration for Barakà Clip-per is the helical form of the propel-ler blade, which becomes the reinterpretation of the historic cardanic movement, enhancing the stylistic features of the jewellery with very high technical and engi-neering content.

In this collection, Barakà estab-lishes itself at the cutting edge of jewellery production. It has created a special limited edition for Basel, made from aluminium like the his-toric aircraft.

What is the story behind the tagline of the Comete brand “Ma tu cosa stai vivendo” (How’s life treating you?)? It tells lots of stories, the stories of everyone and every day. I believe

the images and tagline are self-explanatory. Not images of models with an airbrushed face and a seductive or faraway gaze, but of real, everyday people. Our pieces of jewellery interpret different times in life, the reality of every day.

What are your medium and long-term plans for development?We are intensifying our focus on for-eign markets where we already oper-ate, such as Eastern Europe. We will once again be taking part in Couture in Las Vegas in order to follow devel-opments on the American and Carib-bean market. Obviously, this will not detract in any way from our focus from the Italian market, which has always produced excellent results for our jewellery.

The London based com-pany EuroPearls cele-brates the 40th anniver-sary at the BASEL-WORLD 2013. Chief

Executive Michael Hakimian says BASELWORLD is vital for Euro-Pearls’ development and growth.

BWDN: What new collections will EuroPearls and its brands present at BASELWORLD?Michael Hakimian: We will be cel-ebrating our 40th birthday this year and to commemorate this we will be launching an exciting new lim-ited edition range for our premium brand Yoko where we have created exclusive, luxury pearl jewellery incorporating top quality South Sea and Tahitian Pearls. We are hugely excited about unveiling these exqui-site pieces at the show. We are also proud to present Yoko Essentials, which offers retailers a core collec-tion of classic, accessible and wear-able pearl jewellery at key price points to complement the premium range.

What is special about the Euro-Pearls stand?Our stand is nestled among many of the longstanding Prestige Jewellers at Basel in Hall 2.2. The way the booth is set up allows our clients to

2.2, D20

browse through comfortably and view our stunning new collections in our rotating, illuminated cabi-nets. The stand is divided in such a way that when clients are ready, they can relax in our private rooms and view the ranges on offer away from the crowds.

What makes BASELWORLD so important for EuroPearls to attend?Euro Pearls travels the globe attend-ing many important jewellery trade shows. However we cannot stress enough how vital BASELWORLD

has been for the company’s devel-opment and growth. Most impor-tantly, attending this show gives us the opportunity to launch our products to a global audience and to interact with key buyers.

What does BASELWORLD offer that you may not find anywhere else?It’s not easy to describe the magical quality of Basel. Both for us the exhibitors and for the buyers there is a dis-tinct buzz in the air. It’s an opportunity to showcase your jewellery vision and creations for the most influential buyers. There is also a huge press pres-ence. This is a show where trends are made. At the end of the intense days at the show the BASELWORLD village is a fabulous place to unwind. What will you be looking for in Basel this year in terms of prod-ucts, trends and networking pos-sibilities?The EuroPearls team always antici-pates Basel with great excitement. We are privileged to be in the com-

pany of the finest jewellery manu-facturers and gem dealers who con-gregate at the show to exhibit some of the most exquisite jewellery and gemstones in the world. Over the years we have found the trends to move increasingly towards luxury, and I believe this year more than ever will be geared towards exclu-sivity, quality and skilled crafts-manship. Our Yoko collection

A EuroPearls ring.

Michael Hakimian.

reflects this shift towards excep-tional jewellery and sheer luxury.

BASELWORLD is a chance to mingle with some of the most tal-ented and creative jewellers world-wide and just as importantly to

meet the crème de la crème of buyers who understand their

markets and have a keen eye for outstanding jewellery.

What are your expecta-tions for business in 2013 and how can BASELWORLD help EuroPearls achieve stronger sales?Our expectations for business in 2013 are realistic and at the same time optimistic.

We are confident that Basel will help us to

reach the markets which are the largest consumers of

luxury jewellery – Asia, the Middle East, Russia and the US. 2.2, G11

www.tisento-milano.com - www.10fabulousyears.com

CELEBRATING 10 FABUL US YEARS OF TI SENTO JEWELLERY AT HALL 1.1/A09

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SOLUTIONS FOR BOTH ENDS OF THE MARKETBRUNO MAYER ALWAYS AIMS FOR SOMETHING SPECIAL

SCHREINER FINE JEWELLERY PRESENTS JEWELLERY IN VIRTUALLY EVERY PRICE CATEGORY

by Axel Henselder

Interview by Christel Trimborn

Bruno Mayer covers both the entry level prices in silver and the premium gold jewellery field with genuine gemstones.

Managing Director Götz Mayer explains to BWDN just what this strategy entails.

BWDN: You are present in Basel with two brands. Will you be con-centrating exclusively on these in future? Götz Mayer: With Viventy in the sil-ver range and Elaine Firenze in gold we have consistently estab-lished two strong brands, which we have been promoting for over 10 years. Bruno May-er Fine Jewel-

Arabic royal dynasties and Russian entrepreneurs value jewellery that features some

of the biggest and rarest gemstones imaginable. But the door is also open to international jewellers wishing to order the more cost-effective jewellery ranges from Ger-man jewellery brand Schreiner Fine Jewellery.

BWDN: What are the defining features of Schreiner Fine Jewel-lery?Gerhard Schreiner: Our particular strength lies in the field of extrava-gant diamond jewellery. The design is not typical of the German straight-lined style and instead features striking, playful and floral elements. A good example is the La Fleur col-lection which we presented for the first time at BASELWORLD last year. The range has been signifi-cantly expanded this year and now features lots of additional models. Initial indications from the trade show are that La Fleur is very popu-lar with our customers.

This year the colourful Copa-cabana collection is among the showpieces presented by Schrein-er Fine Jewelry. What makes this so special?We have created a small collection of romantic floral jewellery items. Bright, naturally coloured sapphire briolettes are organised to create a rainbow-like colour sequences from light lemon yellow to deep lush orange, for example. The items are also very pleasant to wear, despite their size. The necklace is designed to adapt to different neck shapes and the individual flower and leaf elements move with flexi-bility. We only produce these items to order because the numerous sap-phire briolettes needed are difficult to obtain.

Something that many jewellers do not realise – in addition to these and numerous other high quality collections, you also offer

LUXURY FOR ALL

lery will be incorporated into Elaine Firenze in future.

Is this a reflection of the polarisa-tion of the market?That‘s correct. Viventy is aimed at buyers who cannot find a suitable appearance in the gold entry levels at the current precious metal price and who are therefore shifting their attention to silver or gold-plated silver as a result. In our Elaine Firenze premium segment in high-quality gold alloys, buyers with higher disposable incomes are addressed, who are looking for a fashionable and contemporary col-lection.

Gerhard Schreiner, CEO.

La Fleur Collection from Schreiner Fine Jewellery.

Götz Mayer, Managing Director of Bruno Mayer.

Are these very different target groups? It is not necessarily a contradiction to wear gold for one occasion and favour silver for another. I am think-ing of on holiday, for example. Many people go without gold jewel-lery then for reasons of security. Of course, there are also customers who only wear gold jewellery and who would not contemplate silver.

What are the most important new products for 2013? With Elaine Firenze we are once again focusing on coloured gem-stone combinations with playful pastel hues. The trend towards pink gold is also continuing. But there are also numerous new pieces in the gold and diamond field. At Viv-enty we have a new collection in pink gold plating, which has met with a great response. We always aim to offer something special. And our jewellery is excellently crafted and yet still always within the price framework. 2.1, K19

Elaine Firenze 18K gold rings

with gem-stones and diamonds.

jewellery ranges in the lower price bracket. Which are they?Our starting prices for purchases begin at below 1000 euros. These include delicate gold chains with small diamond butterflies or flow-ers – beautiful items of jewellery that children can also wear. They then continue with various items of jewellery in the medium price cat-egory and upwards from here – there are no limits due to the exclu-sive nature of the stones used. We do not impose any minimum pur-chase on our customers. They can order individual items or several items from different collections.

What have you experienced in terms of new customers at BASEL-WORLD over the last few days of the trade show?We have the impression that some of our new customers want encour-agement. Most are hugely enthusi-astic about the items of jewellery and have respect for the sum associ-ated with them. German jewellers are rather cautious. The biggest growth in new customers has come from the Asian and eastern Euro-pean areas. 1.1, D05

Elaine Firenze bracelet in 18K gold.

H A L L 1 . 1 S T A N D C - 0 9 W W W . M I K I M O T O . C O M

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V o y a g e u r Two faces reVersible

any Time any where

www.korloffparis.com

Hall 1.1 - stand a63

AP Kalahari 300x400 v1.indd 1 25/03/13 15:51

67JEWELLERYWEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013

DRESSY GUYSFASHION-CONSCIOUS MEN ARE WEARING BOLD COLOURS, FLORAL PATTERNS AND INDIVIDUAL ACCESSORIESby Christel Trimborn

2

Salvatore Ferragamo has driven the ode to the radi-ance of colours to its pin-nacle: for this spring/sum-mer season he sent his

models out onto the catwalk in glowing orange, turquoise, cobalt blue and bold yellow. And not in a leisure look, but a business one. Elegant jackets, slim trousers, lace-up shoes and even entire suits with floral patterns – as seen at Bottega Veneta - can be colourful this year. Other classic men’s outfitters such as Hugo Boss and Cinque are also propagating stylish colour combi-nations for fashion-conscious men. Those wishing to set a few colourful accents with a black or grey suit will find just the thing in the shape of radiantly-coloured premium sports shoes, some in multicoloured design. Colourful accessories such as briefcases, hats, scarves, watches and jewellery can also create

extravagant effects. “More and more men are looking for ways to break out of the uniform appearance. They are discovering ways of expressing their individuality in the small things of fashion,” observes Michael Werner, Editor-in-Chief of the German trade journal Textil-Wirtschaft.

COLOUR AS THE DETERMINING ELEMENTOf course, the discreet, reserved jewellery pieces for men are still to be found: primarily clean and straight-lined in design, mostly cre-ated using white metal, decorated with discreet ornamentation in black materials such as ceramic, leather or onyx. However, a clear trend towards more colour and clever details is evident in men’s jewellery – and in some cases men’s

watches. Cufflinks with coloured gemstones, rings with iridescent pearls, pendants in coloured syn-thetics or boldly luminescent fire enamel suit both colourful outfits and casual combinations of jeans, sports jacket and shirt. The Pforzheim jewellery manufacture Victor May-er, for example, is a specialist when it comes to sophisticated cufflinks with coloured enamel. This season the wrists of fashion-conscious men are also colourful. This colour comes in the form of bracelets with coloured leather or rubber elements and watches characterised by a steel-blue or provocative orange-coloured dial. Even the colour yel-low, rarely found in the premium segment, is now to be seen here: Alexander Shorokhoff has equipped his Crazy Hands model with radiant yellow hands.

1 Boss Green | 2 Guess | 3 Ernst Stein | 4 Sector | 5 Alexander Shorokhoff | 6 Spreckelsen Fine Jewellery | 7 TF Est. 1968 | 8 Victor Mayer | 9 Gellner | 10 Hugo Boss

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SWISS MADEWWW.DISCOVERCOVER.COM

GREAT STYLE IN TIME

COVER EXPRESSIONSCo160 Aureus Lady Chronograph

The creation of unique and captivating timepieces is the core of our family-owned enterprise. At COVER’s headquarters in the historic town of Solothurn, all COVER watches are passionately being manufactured by hand, for Swiss Made quality that can be felt and seen at fi rst glance. COVER has successfully established itself in over 50 countries worldwide; it truly is a convincing international brand.

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COVER EXPRESSIONSCo152 Quartino Chronograph

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Visit us at our Booth A71 in Hall 1.1 at the BaselworldManufacture des Montres Vulcain S.A. - Chemin des Tourelles 4 - 2400 Le Locle - Switzerland - Tél. +41 (0)32 930 80 10 - Fax +41 (0)32 930 80 19 - [email protected]

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Lyndon B. Johnson and his presidential Vulcain.5N 18K pink gold, Cricket mechanical alarm proprietary Vulcain V-21 calibre, equipped with the Exactomatic system.

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The Watch for Presidents.

71INNOVATIONSWEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013

For many of the exhibitors offering technical prod-ucts for the jewellery and watch industry, the move to Hall 4 has paid off. “I

wouldn’t want to move from here,” says Nick English, Co-CEO of Asic (4.U, B39). “Hall 4 has just the right size,” says English, “we had consid-erably more visitors on our stand than last year.” These also included the five most important suppliers of the company.

Marek Birkenstock, Managing Partner of the eponymous mail order trader (4.U, C30), is also pleased with the high frequency of visitors to his stand: “People are bursting in all the time.” There have been many enquiries for the prod-ucts that he has on display, Birken-stock continues. The balance so far is therefore thoroughly positive for the company.

Michael Knight of Castaldo (4.U, B40) has a similar story to tell. “The interest of the visitors was very sig-nificant from day one,” says the President of Castaldo.

Celine Allemand, responsible for marketing and sales at Alle-mand Frères (4.U, E35), also had good figures to report. Even more important is the quality of the con-tacts, however. “People haven’t just been looking around at our stand,” says Allemand, “they were specifi-cally interested in the products and came with the real intention to buy.”

Bill Dahl, Vice President Mar-keting & Communications at Solid-

scape (4.U, C13), had made a whole series of high-quality contacts. “The BASELWORLD has been very suc-cessful for us so far,” says Dahl. The company is benefiting from the fact that it has one of the major current technological trends on display on its stand: 3D printing. “This tech-nology is the next big requirement

for the jewellery industry,” says Dahl.

In keeping with the product, Solidscape has announced the win-ner of its design competition for 3D wax printing at BASELWORLD. The Platinum Grand Award was won by a spectacular gold and dia-mond tiger head seamlessly, mould-

ing into an organic ring, designed by the OG-Art Studio team from Poland. Winning the Gold Award is Dinant Alain, D-F-S of Lyon, France with a spectacular interpretation of the Nimes Coliseum crafted in gold.

On the stand of DWS (4.U, D20) it is also evident that 3D printing is a theme that is gathering pace. “We

have had a lot of enquiries about this,” says Enrico Bulian, Sales Manager at DWS. “You can see that there is a lot of reporting on this technology,” adds Bulian. “As a con-sequence, more and more show visitors are making their way to us and want to find out what opportu-nities this technology offers them.” Potential customers come from all around the world. “For example, from France, Russia, India or Bra-zil,” reports Bulian.

An international audience is also to be found at other exhibitors, such as Roxer (4.U, E41). The focus of interest here is the new hand fit-ting machine, explains Cyril Morales, responsible for marketing at Roxer.

The new SwissNano range of machines (4.U, B12) in particular is drawing in the visitors at CNC spe-cialists Tornos. “Visitors are coming from all around the world, with the Asian area particularly well repre-sented,” says Carlos Almeida, Sales Manager Switzerland at Tornos.

TECHNICAL TRENDS DRAW VISITORS INTO HALL 4EXHIBITORS PLEASED WITH PREMIUM CONTACTS, 3D PRINTING MEETS WITH GREAT INTERESTby Markus Strehlitz

TIMEGRAPHER FROM GREINER

NEW MATERIALS FOR JEWELRY MOULDS

by Markus Strehlitz

SIMPLE WATCH TESTING

FLEXIBILITY REQUESTED

Greiner Vibrograf is present-ing its watch testing device, the Chrono Touch, at

BASELWORLD. The device has been designed for mechanical watches. It offers all the key func-tions of a timegrapher, says CEO Michael Kläfiger. These include automatic detection of the beat number. All of the relevant watch values are displayed: rate, ampli-tude and beat error. The measure-ment duration and lift angle are freely selectable.

The data is presented on a high resolution touch-screen. “This means that the device is very easy to operate,” says Kläfiger. The

price represents a particular advantage. The Chrono Touch costs 2270 Swiss francs, including a microphone. “Other devices with the same functions are more expensive,” says Kläfiger.

The USB interface can be used to transfer data to a PC. The values can then be printed out along with the company, customer and watch description details. The device also has a network connection.

Models for casting items of jewellery are sometimes compiled using rapid pro-

totyping processes. A tried-and-trusted approach to reproducing these models is the production of silicone moulds. Michael Knight of Castaldo has brought a range of improved materials to the show which have been optimised to meet a range of requirements. They can either be cast in fluid form or placed over the object in question in the

form of a sheet. Heat is then added. Different materials are suited to dif-ferent production objects. The sili-cone material Castaldo Superstretch can be used for small, twisted forms. It is particularly easy to remove from cavities and stretches up to 900 per-cent. Castaldo Liquifast enables a faster process. Models produced using this material do not need to be left to dry overnight and instead are ready after just 30 minutes. One of the problems of forms made from cheap rubber is that it loses its shape after a time and becomes soft. Liqui-fast Longlife prevents this from hap-pening. The forms produced with this material retain their shape for decades, according to head of the company Michael Knight.

by Markus Strehlitz

by Pia Grund-Ludwig

Visitors who are interested in technology come from all over the world to Hall 4.

The winner of the Award for 3D wax printing.

Chrono Touch: all relevant watch values are displayed.

4.U, F26 4.U, B40

Moulds for wax casting.

72 INNOVATIONSWEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013

Displaying precious gem-stones in the right light is complex. Dialumen has

developed solutions for this that are already in use on many of the stands at BASELWORLD. Hublot has them at its stand, as do Jacob & Co., Patek Philippe and de Grisogono.

The principle is as follows: LEDs which emit cold and warm

light, alternately. Dialumen has optimised the wavelength so that the light makes the diamonds spar-kle. This recreates daylight. The second development is that the LEDs move at random. This makes the sheen of the stones look very natural, as it would when worn or catching the sunlight.

The concept was premiered at the 2010 BASELWORLD, since then Dialumen has worked on its refinement and, in particular, its design. “Companies like Zenith and others have asked us to devel-op solutions to match their design concept,” reports Cyril Pilet, Vice

President of the company. The company has also developed a new moving system. This fits into stand-ard apertures in showcases for hal-ogen lighting, so that no conver-sion is necessary.

Online sales are becoming increasingly important in the jewellery and watch

business. Presenting these products appropriately requires special tech-nique. Bullnheimer is therefore including the Mode 360 in its range. This photo studio can be used to photograph a product from various different angles. This enables online

retailers to devise presentations with a 360 degree animation for their web shop. The software comes with the product and enables the user to control both the camera and the entire device.

VALUEABLE GOODS FIND A SUITABLE SURROUNDINGCUSTOMERS BUYING VALUABLE WATCHES AND JEWELLERY WISH TO RECEIVE A CASE THAT IS APPROPRIATE. COMPANIES IN HALL 2.0 AND HALL 4.1 OFFER A WIDE RANGE OF COLOURS AND MATERIALS, FROM CLASSIC BLACK AND WHITE TO CURRENT SPRING COLOURS SUCH AS LEMON AND PINK. ALSO ON SHOW ARE DISPLAYS FOR THE OPTIMAL PRESENTATION IN THE SHOP WINDOW.

ONLINE PRESENTATIONS HIGHEND CUSTOMERS

by Pia Grund-Ludwig

PHOTOS FOR WEB SHOPS

THE RIGHT LIGHT

by Markus Strehlitz by Pia Grund-Ludwig

French company Dardel can look back on a 100-year history and works for companies in the luxury segment of the jewellery sector. The new trend colour for boxes is champ, as in champagne, the interior is brown.

Gainerie91 from France: premium pack-aging and presentation solutions are on display.

Bornemann offers a complete range of products for packaging.

Ch. Dahlinger is characterised by an annual motif, this year discreet butterflies in pink and silver.

Sodem is showing the new Couture collection, made from paper and select textiles. On offer is the complete range of carrying bags, gift bags or boxes for necklaces and bracelets. “We supply tai-lored suits for the packaging,” says Man-aging Director Gregor Krampe, describing how he sees the design of contemporary and premium solutions.

Italian company To be Packing emphasi- ses the fact that its products are made exclusively in Italy. “We are able to pro-vide the fast supply of products, tailor- ed to customer requirements,” says Stefano Agazzi of To be Packing. A complete service is offered.

Ara Arakelian, Sales & Marketing Manager at the Lebanese company Arakelian: “Here in Basel we find companies who appreciate quality,” he says.

“We adapt flexibly to the requirements of our customers,” says James Law, Managing Director at Firmstock of Hong Kong. He points to carefully-worked, wooden boxes for the storage and pres-entation of jewellery. His customers are currently primarily looking for natural colours and white.

Easy to use: Mode 360. Light system for jewellery presentation.

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75GEMSTONESWEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013

Raj Mehta, director of Rosy Blue, holds a pear shape, D-VVS1 Type 2A diamond totalling 15 carats.

D-VVS1, Type 2A round diamond totalling 25 carats.

DESTINED FOR SUCCESSVENDORS IN HALL 3 HAIL STRONG SALES AT NEW LOCATION

FANCY COLOURS AND CUTS REMAIN IMPORTANT, CONSOLIDATIONS EXPECTED

by Deborah Yonick

by Deborah Yonick

Despite trepidation from many of the ven-dors in Hall 3 about their new location at BASELWORLD this

year, the end result was very posi-tive in terms of overall foot traffic and sales. Off the beaten paths of Halls 1 and 2, Hall 3 was a true des-tination for serious buyers interest-ed in the fine and unusual in dia-monds, gems, pearls, and estate jew-ellery.

From the opening day onwards, the corridors of Hall 3 were bustling. “We didn’t know what to expect coming to Basel this year given the new hall,” says Colombian emerald specialist Joseph Gad from New York (3.1, D39). “But the serious cli-ents who are looking for the best gemstones in the world always show up. Buyers from around the globe came with chequebooks in hand to see our extensive selection of Colombian emeralds. We saw many of our regular clients, the major jew-ellery brands, for orders of matched pairs, layouts, and exceptional invest-ment stones. We also met new cli-ents from South East Asia who wanted very rare, untreated (no oil) emeralds. Business was very good. For us, Basel is the most important show of the year!”

Axel Henn, a principlal with the Idar-Oberstein, Germany-based Henn (3.1, E27),

Rosy Blue, one of the world’s foremost diamantaires, is an industry leader and DTC

Sightholder with access to a consist-ent supply of diamonds from major mining groups including DTC, BHP Billiton Diamonds, and Alrosa. Raj Mehta, director of the Antwerp, Bel-gium-based firm shares his insights about the market.

BWDN: What trends are you see-ing in the diamond market today?Raj Mehta: In white diamonds, rounds and fancy cuts of 10 carats or less are trending among our seri-ous buyers. However, other sizes below 10 carats are in demand, par-ticularly one to five carats. Fancy shapes that sell well are ovals and pear shapes, because they allow

ROSY BLUE ON DIAMONDS

an exhibitor at BASELWORLD for the past 30 years, was not initially

happy about the changes. But he is glad to report his scepticism was proven wrong. “We were busy from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. every day of the show,” says Henn, whose company is a fourth-generation gem and lapidary house with carv-ings, objets, and one-of-a-kind gem and enamel jewel-

lery in 18K gold. “All the people we wanted to see came and we also

met a lot of new people who dis-covered us along the way. We offer a very special, niche product and the buyers who come to the Basel show are looking for unique offerings and one-of-a-kind items.”

While Maurice Moradof of Yafa Signed Jewels (3.0, A25) said that traf-fic was good and buyers were buy-ing. “Overall, the show was very good for his.” Moradof cites robust interest in signed pieces from makers like Van Cleef & Arpels,

Maurice Moradof.Eden Rachminov.Axel Henn.

Emer-ald-cut Colom-bian emerald, no oil, totalling 17.82 carats, Joseph Gad & Co.

3.0, D23

Cartier and Harry Winston starting at 100,000 US dollars. “The market is strong for unique pieces, the upper echelon, a basic D Flawless

diamond is not where it’s at.”

Eden Rach-minov of Rach-minov Dia-monds 1891,

Tel-Aviv, was also busy.

“We were busy with scheduled

a p p o i n t m e n t s throughout the fair,” Rachminov says. “We are one of the biggest companies in the niche of fancy colour dia-

monds and for us BASELWORLD is imperative. Serious buyers from the US, Europe, and the Far East are here — it is truly the centre of the jewellery world.” He cites a huge awareness for fancy colour diamonds as demand continues to escalate for goods from melee to stones above 10 million US dollars noting that dealers who only sup-plied colourless diamonds are now including fancy colours in their line up. “We’re very optimistic about the future of the business.”

Undoubtedly, the quality of the buyers who attend Baselworld is critical to the vendors showing there. This year, vendors note an even higher quality of clients roam-ing the show floor. “The quality of buyers was already high and this year it was a step higher,” describes Emmanuel Piat of the Paris gem house, Piat. “I am happy to see my investment to be here was well spent.”

Piat cites strong prices for gem-stones across the board as buyers seek out rare, natural gems for investment purposes. He forecasts that colour stones could surpass colourless diamonds as presenting the best investment opportunities. “Buyers want rare, untreated stones, and that is all we deal in,” he says. “They were especially attracted to unexpected, unusual colours — new shapes and cuts for special designs, such as spessartite garnet, tourmalines, and different colours in sapphire like peach and grey that were not in fashion in the past. People who come to Basel are not looking for bargains, they are looking for quality!”

jewellery designers to create special and unique designs. Fancy colour diamonds are also in demand start-ing with blues, pinks and yellows—not just for bridal and fashion piec-es, but also for investment purposes.

What are the challenges facing the diamond business and how is Rosy Blue meeting them?This wholesale industry is not as organised as the mining and retail trade. From finance to sourcing to manufacturing to distribution and marketing, all of these things need to align with each other with regards to supply and demand. As an international group with offices worldwide, we are able to under-stand challenges and forecast trends well in advance to adjust our strate-

gies accordingly. Our long-term views and goals remain the same, and in the short term, we keep mak-ing minor adjustments to weather any difficulties.

What are your expectations for the diamond industry moving forward?I expect even more consolidation within the trade. These changes

will definitely reflect the way busi-ness is happening. Ultimately, it will be good for the trade as it puts everything in the right perspective. Consolidation usually happens when the industry is too fragment-ed. It gives the market the chance to readjust. Those who will succeed in the diamond market are those who are creative, innovative and differ-ent to their neighbour in the prod-ucts they sell and how they sell them.

“All the people we wanted to see came and we also met a lot of new people who dis-covered us along

the way”Axel Henn

76 GEMSTONESWEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013

1 Royal Gem Proud of their pear shapes, here’s a 20.23-carat Fancy Light Yellow, and a 10.02-carat D/VS2.(3.1, N11)

2 Prompt A 50+ carat colourless (D) VVS round brilliant flanked by two fancies, a 10.91-carat Fancy Intense Pink-Orange, and a 5.62-carat Fancy Intense Purplish Pink. (3.1, E43)

3 Shaun Gems Burmese rubies continue to glow – literally! “There’s high demand for these rubies,” says President Shaun Ajodan. “Burmese fluorescence is the strongest compared to all others. In the

8 Gellner The Fiji Islands are not normally associated with pearls, but Gellner has contracted with Justin Hunter, the areas pre-eminent grower, to bring the entire production of Fiji South Seas pearls to the jewellery industry. Compared to the Tahitian black, the signature appearance of the Fijis are bolder colours. Because of their rarity and their intense colours, the Fijis are typically twice the price of a comparable Tahitian. (2.1, B12+B31)

6 Manak Manak dia-mond slices in yellow, and colourless, in a variety of sizes. Manufacturing jewellers use slices to make eye-catching earrings, and rings without having to use larger traditional cuts. Manak is also known for rose, Old Mine, and Old European cuts. (3.1, E29)

7 Andrew Cohen An incredibly rare and beautiful strand of natural black pearls, with diamond clasp, from Cartier, early 20th century. From this time frame, natural black pearls of this size and qual-ity most likely came from the west coast of Central America. Available with the matching earrings. (3.0, D01)

A POTPOURRI OF PRECIOUS GEMSFROM FANCY COLOUR DIAMONDS, TO RUBIES, EMERALDS, TO NATURAL PEARLS, THEY’RE ALL RIGHT HERE!by Gary Roskin

All week we have been talking about fancy colour diamonds and we just cannot stop. “Fan-

cy colour diamonds are certainly centre stage right now,” says Leibish Polnauer, President of Leibish & Co.. “There are so many different places to invest your money today. But if a person were to have purchased a 3 to 5 carat Fancy Vivid blue or pink dia-mond fifteen years ago, today those diamonds would be worth at least

seven times their original value.” “You could buy gold, platinum, stocks, or bonds, but with the excep-tion of impressionist art, nothing can touch fancy colour diamonds.”

Polnauer knows that because of limited resources and a growing demand, partly brought on by the fashion industry, fancy colour dia-monds will continue to climb in val-ue. “Another reason for fancy colour diamonds to be such a good invest-

ment is that fancy colours are not traded on the Rapaport list,” says Polnauer. “This means that there is more mobility for manufacturing and retail jewellers to help their brand. Jewellers today have a diffi-cult time making a profit, with col-ourless diamonds being traded by the list, becoming more of a com-modity every day.” But with fancy colour, everyone has the opportunity to make a living. “Yellow diamonds

sell very cheap,” says Polnauer. “A five carat colourless H/VS1 is priced at $30,000/ct., where a five carat Fancy Yellow is priced at fifty percent less, at $15,000/ct.”

THE MOST POPULAR COLOUR“In my humble opinion, fancy colour diamonds are so much more unique. My favourite colour is pink. The pink business of course is dependent on Argyle. Argyle pink diamonds sell

faster than they can be found.” Just yesterday (Tuesday, April 30), Rio Tinto announced that the original open-pit Argyle diamond mine is now opening its underground opera-tion to expand the life of the mine, and of the Argyle pink diamond market.

Polnauer hopes so. “You always want to be at the top of the stairs,” says Polnauer. “That way, people look up and go, ‘Ah!’”

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evening, it flares up like a vivid red.” A fabulous suite of 3 caraters, all Burmese heat treated certified Pigeon Blood red. (3.1, F13)

4 Leibish & Co./Pinchasi-Cohen Leibish Polnauer, fancy colour diamond expert. 1.01 cts. each, Fancy Blue and Fancy Intense Purplish Pink hearts. A 1.45 cts. princess cut Argyle Fancy Intense Pink. A 1.04 cts. Argyle Fancy Purplish Pink round. A 4.02 cts. Fancy Vivid Yellow round. A 0.24 ct. Fancy Vivid Green-Blue. And a 0.47 ct. Fancy Purplish-Red! (3.1, N21)

5 Antwerp Coloured GemsRough diamond crystals create excep-tionally beautiful necklaces. (3.0, D37)

3.1, N21

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2013Daily News Issues.pdf 1 13-3-20 下午4:35

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81GEMSTONESWEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013

Ready to putt the ball into the hole: Golfing Polar bear, made out of rock crystal and onyx by Herbert Klein.

PRECIOUS ANIMALSAUTHENTIC WORKS OF ART MADE FROM GEMSTONESInterview by Christoph Hoffmann

Most gemstones are facetted or cut into cabochons and are then processed fur-ther to create items

of jewellery. Some companies at BASELWORLD are demonstrating just what stones can become!

WILD AND SPORTY ANIMALSA first glance in the display window of stone cutter Herbert Klein (3.1, B01) reveals two things: the com-pany has unbelievable skill when it comes to gemstones – and it has a sense of humour. There are proud poodles with their noses held high, monkeys wearing headphones who seem to be absorbed in their music and polar bears on ice skates or playing golf. The passion for detail is almost unbelievable. Flickers of

emotion are evident on the mon-key’s face and the bear’s fur genu-inely looks soft and fluffy while its expression is light and captivating. The golfing bear’s concentration is written all over his face as he prac-tises putting while the ice-skating bear glides with grace.

Stefan Klein, who made the fig-ures and who manages the firm together with his sister Gabriele, explains why he places such great importance on making the animals as realistic as possible from the out-set: “I read books about animals, watch films or go to the zoo to get to know the animal in as much detail as possible”. He adds, laughing: “Then it’s time to free the animal from the stone – it’s in there somewhere!” He shows us a crocodile made from nephrite which impressively demon-

strates his precision: each scale, each tooth and even the mouth area is precisely engraved. Even more mini-mal details, such as wrinkles under the eyes, are reproduced if they are evident in the real animal: “We have to focus on nature and not vice ver-sa,” says Stefan Klein.

The production of these sculp-tures requires an eye for small nuances and the ability to recreate these as well as a certain amount of strength: these objects are sometimes very large and heavy (such as a rhinoceros which weighed 18 kilos in its “unfinished state”) and have to be worked. It is this huge amount of effort invested into each sculp-ture which enables Stefan Klein to establish a special connection with each individual object.

Amazingly detailed horses and huge polished stones by Henn.

Flowers are another speciality of Herbert Klein. These are cut from high-quality and gemstones which can be faceted. An unusual use because many suppliers prefer to use material rich in inclusions to make flowers. “Sometimes we are almost laughed at for making flow-ers from such valuable stones,” says Gabriele Klein. “But we want them to be of the highest quality too.” POLISHED STONES AND UNTAMED HORSESThree very large and voluminous gemstones (a rock crystal, citrine and morganite) are presented in the display window of the Henn stone cutters (3.1, E27), all polished to create harmonious, rounded and very organic forms. The three stones invite customers to play with them, rotate them, turn them around and position them in new constellations. “This harmonious interplay was my aim,” says Hans-Jürgen Henn who created the items. “They should not be perceived sep-arately, but rather as a work of art which belongs together and which can be endlessly rearranged.”

Alongside the stones in the win-dow are two trophies which demon-strate Hans-Jürgen Henn’s high level of craftsmanship. Spectacularly formed horses’ heads of smoky quartz

and rock crystal are enthroned on giant vessels of gold and rock

crystal, lending the inclusions a special individual charac-

ter. There is also a wild dynamic evident within

the horses: each tensed muscle has been carefully carved from the material.

The sculptures alone make a visit to

the stand a truly worth-while experience, but the

jewellery by his son Ingo Henn under the brand of Henn

of London is also well worth a look. He combines perfectly cut

gemstones with enamel elements to create harmonious sequences of colour and form which lessen the severity of the stones’ geometry.

SPARKLING FURNISHINGSSwiss company New Art (2.1, D01) specialises in ultra-luxurious inte-rior design items made from pre-cious metals and gemstones. Each item is unique, produced exclusive-ly for the customer as part of an elaborate process. The portfolio ranges from small desk objects to animal sculptures, reproductions of architecture and endless astonish-ing eggs made from rock crystal and gold which play music when opened, offering insight into their exquisite interiors.

The aesthetic appearance of these items is characterised by a sophisticated aura as reflected, for example, by an engraved horse

sculpture made from rock crystal with diamond eyes and fittings of gold, rubies and emeralds. It is positioned on an obsidian base.

Lost in music: Relaxed Monkey

by Herbert Klein.

82 WORLD OF BASELWEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013

Swiss DJ Antoine – internation-ally known for his hit Wel-come To St. Tropez – dropped

into the BASELWORLD on Monday. He is a brand ambassador for Kyboe! and a keen watch fan: “I have always worn watches,” he told BWDN. “What I like in particular about Kyboe! is that I can wear a different colour every day.“ The like-able DJ lives in Basel and this is consequently not his first visit to the show: “The new hall complex is really cool! I’m impressed that it was finished in such a short time.“ Four years ago he met the founders of the Dutch lifestyle brand, whose watches he not only wears in pri-vate, but also in his music videos.

After Swizz Beatz, co-owner and music producer of the headphone manufacturer

Monster, and the German skier Maria Höfl-Riesch, Hublot presents its next celebrity: Carlos Fuente Jr, President of the prestigious Arturo Fuente Cigar House, spent Sunday afternoon on the stand of the Swiss luxury watch manufacture. To mark the successful partnership the second limited edition version of a cigar box with Hublot watch is to be launched.

BWDN: Mr Fuente, what brings you to BASELWORLD?Carlos Fuente Jr: My family and friends at Hublot. It is more than a business relationship between us. CEO Ricardo Guadalupe, Chair-main Jean-Claude Biver, and me share a close friendship.

What else do you have in common?A lot. For example craftsmanship and the dedication to time: Both of our companies focus on luxury products that are hand-crafted. To me the secret of making a great product is time – which also applies to cigars and of course watches. What is connecting Hublot and Arturo Fuente the most is probably the human warmth and social responsibility behind our luxury brands: We are both involved in charity work.

How do you like the trade show?It‘s great. But I haven‘t gotten the chance to see it all. I am happy to be at Hublot – for me it is the ultimate house of power and everybody is so special here.

Barry S. Cohen, founder and Co-CEO of Luminox, the original self-powered lumi-

nous watch, discussed the brand’s partnership with Space Expeditions Corp. (SXC), a private Dutch firm devoted to making passenger space travel accessible for anyone. The first commercial flights of the SXC Lynx space plane start in 2014. Luminox is the project’s Official Watch and has created a new series of Space models, starting with three launched at BASELWORLD.

IT’S ALL ABOUT TIME

A TRUE WATCH FAN

CARLOS FUENTE JR ON HIS PARTNERSHIP WITH HUBLOT

KYBOE! WELCOMES DJ ANTOINE

Interview by Magdalena Malawska by Magdalena Malawska

Carlos Fuente Jr with his King Power watch and flagship cigar Opus X.

Basel based DJ Antoine.

Barry S. Cohen.

MISSION TO SPACELUMINOX PRESENTS NEW COLLABORATIONby William George Shuster

THE “WOMAN OF CALIBRE” AT BASELWORLDELEANOR CARDOZO, SCULPTOR AND BRAND AMBASSADOR FOR BEDAT & CO. SAID ABOUT THE TRADE SHOW: “YOU FEEL LUXURIOUS AS SOON AS YOU WALK IN.”

Artist Eleanor Cardozo with one of her famous sculptures at the Bedat & Co. stand.

The Village is fun – whether for cultivating business contacts over dinner or just raising glasses to a successful day at the show.

SHAKING THINGS UP AT THE VILLAGE

WITH ITS COSY RESTAURANTS AND BARS THE ATMOSPHERE WAS UNIQUE AT THE NIGHT

HOT SPOT OF BASELWORLD

84 WORLD OF BASELWEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013

Max Chilton is sitting in the Formula 1 cockpit of F1 team Marussia this year.

The young British racing driver visited his sponsor Armin Strom at BASELWORLD.

BWDN: Max, what links you to the brand?Max Chilton: Mostly attention to detail. I like that Armin Strom has

“IT’S NOT MY LAST TIME HERE”MEET AND GREET WITH MAX CHILTONInterview by Magdalena Malawska

Tudor Anthology is a real encyclopaedia of Tudor watches. The large book with 344 pages analyses all the Tudor production since 1936. Many important topics such as the different marks of var-ious models are shown and explained. Furthermore, the book provides the updated prices of all Tudor watches, both modern and vintage models. Amongst the various Tudors, we can find the Advisor, Chronautic, Herit-

age, Ranger and many more. The book is also a pres-tigious work, as it comes in a limited edition of just 1,000 numbered exam-ples signed by the author.

Watches International, Volume XIV showcases the latest watches from around the world, from every major watchmaker. Hundreds of beautiful full-colour photographs show not only the watches’ style and exquisite-ness, but also the details of their movements, functions, cases and dials. The text gives an overview of each of the companies’ histories. Watches International has been set-

ting the standard for up-to-date ref-erence guides devoted to luxury timepieces since 2000. This Vol-ume is the latest edition of the c o m p r e h e n - sive compendi-um. Tourbillon

International has published thirteen consecutive vol-umes of Watches Interna-tional and is an expert in the field.

Alberto Isnardi, Tudor Anthology, Guido Mondani Editore, 344 pages, 255 x 315 mm, Texts in English and Italian, 438 Swiss francs.

Tourbillon International, Watches International Volume XIV, Rizzoli, Trade Paperback, 424 pages, 235 x 305 mm, English, ISBN 978-0-8478-4003-8, 35 Swiss francs.

TUDOR ANTHOLOGY WATCHES INTERNATIONAL VOLUME XIV

TOGETHER WITH GUESTS THE SPANISH JEWELLERY BRAND CARRERA Y CARRERA CELEBRATED ITS FOUNDER

... JET SET WATCHES VISITED FROM SOUTH AFRICA

A TOAST TO MANUEL CARRERA

THE FACE OF ...

People gather for the toast.

THE SWISS BRAND HOSTED A LIVE EXPERIENCE EVENT TO RAISE A GLASS TO ITS ANNIVERSARY

65TH BIRTHDAY PARTY AT ALFEX

A video projection formed part of the live experience event.

NEW BOOKS

Books are available at the bookshop at BASELWORLD Palace and on www.watchprint.com

Max Chilton, British Formula 1 Driver and brand ambassador for Armin Strom.

Charne Marwick.

a very limited supply and that the time pieces are hand-manufac-tured. The quality is very good and I am really into the design.

Which model are you wearing?I am wearing the Racing Regulator. I really like this black watch and it works well for what I do since it helps me stay on time. Also I enjoy having a nice time piece on my

wrist – it just makes everything easier.

Is it your first time in Switzer-land?I was actually asking myself this morning: Have I been to Switzer-land before? I get to travel so much due to race competitions all over the world and get confused some-times. But yes, it is definitely my first time here and certainly not my last. I have been to big trade shows before but with its standard of products BASELWORLD is just fascinating.

86 SERVICEWEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013

IMPRINTBASELWORLD Daily NewsA publication by Untitled Verlag und Agentur GmbH & Co. KG

Managing Director:Dr. Christian Jürgens

Editorial Management:Mathias Menzel, Caroline Schiedttel. +41 61 699 80 [email protected]

Editors:Watches: William George Shuster (wgs), Iris Wimmer-Olbort (iwi), Sabine Zwettler (sz)

Jewellery: Dr. Roberto Chilleri (rc), Nina Hald (nh), Axel Henselder (ahe), Christel Trimborn (cete)

Gemstones: Christoph Hoffmann (ch), Gary Roskin (gr), Deborah Yonick (dy)

Markets: Axel Henselder (ahe)

Innovations: Pia Grund-Ludwig (pgl), Markus Strehlitz (ms)

World of Basel: Magdalena Malawska (mm)

Contributors: Pooja Agarwal (pa), Gloria Belloni (gb), Carol Besler (cb), Kyra Brenzinger (kb), David Brough (db), Elizabeth Doerr (ed), Annalisa Fontana (af), Roberta Naas (rn)

Art Direction:Janina Demiana Roll, Kerstin Vorwalter

Layout: Sandra Fink, Martin Tubbesing, Heike Wahnbaeck, Marlene Wolf

Picture editors: Tobias Indermühle, Andre Weinberg

Photos:Hannes Magerstaedt, David Matthiessen, Volker Renner, Daniel Stauch, Franz Unterbirker

Translation and Proofreading:Ad Rem Sprachdienstleistungen, Amy Brooke, Prisca DeGroat, Howard Fine, Konstanze Plötz, Kenneth Ross

Advertising:MCH Swiss Exhibition (Basel) Ltd.BASELWORLDCH-4005 Basel / Switzerlandtel. +41 58 206 22 [email protected]

Printing:Vogt-Schild Druck AGCH-4552 Derendingenwww.vs-druck.ch

Publisher’s address:Untitled Verlag und Agentur GmbH & Co. KGMedienpark KampnagelJarrestr. 2 D-22303 Hamburg, Germanytel. +49 40 189 881-0fax +49 40 189 [email protected]

BASELWORLD Daily News is published by Untitled Verlag und Agentur GmbH & Co. KG. Reprints of articles are obtainable on application to the publisher. All rights reserved. BASELWORLD Daily News may not be reproduced in any manner of form without written permission.

OPENING HOURSDaily: 9 am – 6 pmLast day (Thursday, May 2): 9 am – 4 pm

PRICES OF ADMISSIONDay ticket CHF 60.–Eight-day ticket CHF 150.–

CATALOGUE BASELWORLD 2013The World Watch and Jewellery Show CHF 40.–

PRESS CENTREOn the Exhibition Square

MEDIA CENTREOn the Exhibition SquareProviding all the international daily news-papers and economic journals and also selected fashion and lifestyle magazines, as well as the complete spectrum of pub-lications revolving around the watch and jewellery industry.

BASELWORLD SHOPOn the Exhibition SquareCatalogue Centre, Book Shop, SBB Swiss Federal Railways, Läckerli-Huus

RAILSBB Swiss Federal Railways BASELWORLD Shop, on the Exhibition SquareSwiss railway SBB, tel. +41 900 300 300French railway SNCF, tel. +33 892 35 35 35German railway DB, tel. +49 1805 99 66 33

AIR TRAVEL SERVICESwiss International Air Lines Reservation Swiss International Air Lines, tel. +41 848 700 700Information EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg: tel. +41 61 325 31 11Zurich Airport: tel. +41 900 30 03 13

AIRPORTEuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg (10 km from Basel city centre) and Zurich Airport (90 km from Basel city centre).A shuttle bus service is available which takes you directly to the Basel Exhibition Centre from EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg (daily from 8.15 am to 7.15 pm) as well as from Zurich Airport (daily from 7.30 am to 7 pm).

LOST PROPERTYHall 2.0tel. +41 58 206 26 12, fax +41 58 206 20 70

TRAMTram stop “Messeplatz”Trams no. 2 and 1 to SBB and SNCF railway stations (8 min.)Trams no. 2 and 6 to German railway station “Badischer Bahnhof” (2 min.)

BASEL TOURISMTourist Information/Hotel reservation in the Stadtcasino at Barfüsserplatz, CH-4010 Basel tel. +41 61 268 68 68 fax +41 61 268 68 70 [email protected] www.basel.com

EXHIBITION CUSTOMS OFFICEHall 2, Foyer tel. +41 58 206 21 22

BANK – CHANGE – SAFEBasler Kantonalbank: Congress Center branch

FREE SHOW GUIDE FOR SMART PHONES

Get the free BASELWORLD App for your iPhone, iPad, BlackBerry and other smart phones! It contains an interactive 3D map of the show, visitor information, detailed information on the exhibitors as well as a selection of articles from the current Daily News issue.

Free download:baselworld.com/app

GET IN TOUCH WITH BASELWORLD

Join us on Facebook or follow our latest news on Twitter or Weibo – and interact with us and other visitors!

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WHENThursday, April 25, 2013 to Wednesday, May 1, 20136 pm to 2 amWHEREBinningerstrasse 14CH-4051 Basel

RESTAURANTS Osteria Acqua – Italian culinary elixir in a unique settingwww.acquabasilea.chBaracca Zermatt – enjoy Swiss food in a chalet style atmospherewww.baraccazermatt.ch

GENERAL INFORMATION

HALL FLOOR PLANS 2013

GLOBAL BRANDSHALL 1.0HALL 1.1HALL 1.2

INTERNATIONAL BRANDSHALL 2.0HALL 2.1HALL 2.2PALACE

RELATED BRANCHESHALL 3.0HALL 3.1HALL 4.U

NATIONAL PAVILIONSHALL 4.0HALL 4.1

PALACE

1

23

4

BASELWORLD VILLAGE: HIGHLIGHT THE NIGHTGreat atmosphere, delicious food, cocktails and live music!

EDITORIAL OFFICENews to share? Contact us!tel. +41 61 699 80 [email protected]

UPCOMING DATES FOR BASELWORLDMarch 27 – April 3, 2014March 19 – March 26, 2015

We will be pleased to accept your table reservations on tel. +41 61 564 66 66

T I M E I S T R A N S I E N T . W E S E T E T E R N A L B E A U T Y A G A I N S T I T .

A L A C RI A S WA N

With the Alacria Swan,

Carl F. Bucherer presents

a masterpiece of the feminine

Alacria line. The traditional

art of the jeweller lends

the Alacria Swan spectacular

splendour: 348 brilliants

in the case, 137 in the dial,

844 in the bracelet and

one in the crown – painstakingly

set by hand. A sparkling

timepiece of beautiful

perfection, offering impeccable

comfort on the wrist.

BOUND TO TRADITION – DRIVEN BY INNOVATION

BASELWORLD 2013 HALL 1.0 – STAND C33

CFB_BASEL13_DAILYNEWS_AD_300x400_DAMEN_ALACRIA_SWAN_EN_0402.indd 1 02.04.13 18:11

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