barrels: what they contribute to beer, wine and liquor ...jun 18, 2018 · barrel wood treatment...

Barrels: What They Contribute to Beer, Wine and Liquor - Part 1

Comprehensive Tasting of Wine

Double Gold Tasting Notes from the 2018 Tasters Guild International Wine Judging

The Mystery of Foam in the Kitchen

Retailer‛s Shelf

The Beauty of Carménère

Those Mystical Moments

Ask Tasters Guild

Summer 2018

2 SPRING/SUMMER 2018 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL

Barrels: What They Contribute to Beer, Wine and Liquor- Part 1By A. Brian Cain

Legend has it that Elijah Craig, a preacher and moon-shiner, was bending barrel staves by the traditional method of the day with fire. Right in the middle of bending the staves and assembling a barrel he got called away in an emergency for a dying parishioner. When he returned to his barrel, it had become quite charred with the interior looking like black alligator skin. Being a frugal man of limited means, instead of using the scorched bar-rel for firewood, he filled it with white lightning. After a few years, the whiskey had turned brown and had the most magnifi-cent aroma and flavor ever conceived in the history of moonshine. Thus, was the birth of Bourbon whiskey.

Whether there is any historical truth in this tale or not, up until a little more than a few centuries ago, barrels were simply a conve-nient storage vessel while wine and whiskey makers had little ap-preciation for the changes in flavor that liquors or wines underwent while in those barrels. To make a beverage taste like wood was unheard of.

As recently as the early 1980’s a reporter was interview-ing the winemaker at a classified Bordeaux and remarked that he was surprised that the winery did not own a single barrel and that all of the wine was stored and aged in enamel lined concrete tanks. The winemaker quickly assured the reporter that there was no need to put the wine in barrels because the same result could be achieved more precisely by simply pumping the wine through the air and allowing it to splash around. The winemaker was referring to the process of micro-oxygenation that a barrel provides over a significant length of time. It never even occurred to him that anyone in his right mind would actu-ally want their wine to taste like an oak barrel.

The Advent of Barrels for Wine

Although the Bourbon whiskey business quickly made charred barrel maturation its signature process, aging wine in new and flavorful barrels really didn’t make much headway until the 1960’s and 1970’s. Certainly barrels have been used to store wine for many centuries, but, winemakers used the same barrels every year and didn’t retire them until they started to leak which may take as long as a hundred years. Once a barrel has been used for maybe 4 or 5 years, it no longer imparts an oak flavor into the wine though it still retains some residual flavors from previous batches and importantly is a breeding ground for a menagerie of micro-organisms that can favorably affect the flavor and structure of the wine. Wineries, of course,

did add new barrels as old ones started to leak or as production increased, but, they were very careful to very gradually add only a few new ones per year so that the oak flavors of those new barrels wouldn’t be detected in the final overall blend of new and mostly old neutral barrels.

In the 1960’s and 1970’s, the California and Australian wine

business exploded and grew exponentially. It was no longer possible to bury a few new barrels amongst a vast stand of used ones. As wineries literally doubled or tripled their production annually, a large percentage if not a majority of their barrels were new. To calm down the overt woodiness, toasting the barrels just below that of a bourbon barrel not only seemed to make the wood taste more palatable to the winemakers, but, the con-sumers loved it! In those days, many wines from the US and Australia tasted more like Bourbon than they did like traditional wines. After a few decades of enormous growth, production came back to a level where winemak-ers could add maybe 5-10% new barrels every year and restore the taste of their wines to what they believed it should be. Consumers, however, had become used to the overt sweet, sappy, caramel, chocolate and coffee-like oak flavors and complained that winemakers had wimped out.


easy to over oak Chardonnay even in a few months, and it seemed almost impossible to over oak big reds even after a year in barrel, I still had the mistaken opinion that toasted barrels had more flavor than medium toast barrels. In fact, the reality is just the opposite. Even after several visits to the cooperage and dozens of barrel replacements over decades at our own winery, I still believed that heavy toast had more oak taste than medium or light toast.

Fortunately, a blind pig does occasionally find an acorn. Be-cause I switched to making red wine exclusively, my misinforma-tion about barrel toast served me well and my wines continued to improve as I increased the amount of toast and even started immersing heavily toasted “beans” into the barrels as well. In the spring 2017 issue of the American Wine Society Journal, Kristine Austin discusses the influence of toasting oak on the resulting wine. I was in disbelief when she stated that the less the toast the stronger the oak flavor and the heavier the toast the milder the oak flavor.

Having made wine for over thirty years, that fact went against everything I thought I knew. So, my friends Tom and Kim LeRoux of Vineyard LeRoux cut some old staves I had laying around into dice-sized beans and toasted them at vary-ing degrees from very light to very heavy toast. They then put them in quart jars full of a 2015 Marquette that had already been aged in a brand new heavy toast Missouri White Oak air dried barrel. After a few weeks, to our amazement, we discovered that Kristine Austin was correct. The jar with the lightly toasted beans was over-whelmingly oaky (tasted like wood) and that with the heavily toasted beans, didn’t taste much different than the wine straight out of the barrel. So, really, by accident I was right, sort of.

Lightly toasted oak imparts a strong flavor of caramel, butter, toffee and tree sap.

Heavily toasted oak imparts a tamer flavor of vanilla, smoke, coffee and chocolate.

Hence, for the flavors I sought for red wines, I accidentally got a lot more out of the heavily toasted barrels and avoided the flavors that really didn’t improve the flavor of red wine.

Barrel Wood Treatment

All barrels used to be air dried. About 50 years ago, it was dis-covered that kiln dried barrels intended for Bourbon aging were just as good and much cheaper. It takes years and acres of land to air dry barrel staves. Imagine what a million barrels looks like and imagine three times that much wood staves stacked outside. It is literally a forest of wood stacks stretching out for maybe a half mile square. Because Bourbon makers want the flavor of the toast and do not necessarily want the flavor of the wood it-self they found that barrels made with kiln dried lumber worked just fine and cost about 30% less.

Scotland used to buy millions of used Bourbon barrels because, once most of the toast flavor was leached out by the Bourbon, the resulting barrel afforded just the right wood flavor to en-hance the already smoky peaty flavor of Scots Whisky. So, once the Bourbon industry stopped using air dried barrels, the Scot-tish distilleries had to find a new source of barrels. Today, the Scots distillers source air dried barrels from wineries and have invested a fortune in seasoning their own barrels by using them first for inexpensive blended Scotch and then using the seasoned barrels for their single malts and finer longer aged blends.


Comprehensive Tasting of WineBy Dan Berger

When you see an issue of a wine magazine that has reviews for 347 German Rieslings or 411 Bordeaux, or anything similar, the implication is that the tasting was comprehensive. But when you see that a gigantic number of wines were reviewed, do you analyze what that means in logistical terms? I doubt anyone does. We usually take it on some form of faith that the reviews all relate to a single standard. Which is never defined. Not to mention the fact that such a vast number sounds as if all the wines were judged by the same judging standards, and that virtually all of the wines of that type were judged. But the mere implication that such tastings are comprehensive itself is a bit misleading, and ignores crucial aspects of wine evaluation that are vital to an honestly evaluated set of wines. For one thing, almost no such judgings can ever be really comprehensive or even close. How many producers of Chianti ship wines to the United States? Hundreds? How many vintages and special designations do they have? Moreover, look at some of the parameters involved in such judgings: When were the wines shipped? I know from conducting wine competitions (since 1982) that wines shipped to the competition earliest stand the best chance of scoring well. That’s because there is more time for the wine to rest at its destination before evaluation. Wines that arrive by common carrier within days of the competition are less likely to earn high medals. It gets worse when wine is shipped on a Friday and not received until a Monday. That meant the wines spent some time in a shipper’s warehouse (not air-conditioned) for part of the weekend. (Poor storage such as this can be

detrimental. This was proven decades ago by an analysis conducted at the California State fair wine judging.) Were the wines all judged on the same exact day? If so, problems could exist since those wines tasted early in the day with fresh palates might get a fairer judging. If not, problems could exist anyway since wines tasted the second day or even later were done by people with different palates–even if they were the same people! (We do not always taste the same day to day.)

In fact, tasting 347 German Rieslings (to use our earlier example) in a single day calls for so many radical changes in approach that tastings done in the morning cannot relate to those done late in the day. Just the mental fatigue alone (one grape variety done over and over again) leads to a blurring of distinctions from morning to afternoon. Then there are the

confusing issues of high acidity, the use of residual sugar, the impact of alcohol on the palate over time, and differing temperatures for the wines.

Were the corks all pulled at the same time ahead of the tasting? If not, problems could exist. For instance, wines whose corks were pulled seconds before pouring could exhibit trace amounts of off odors. But given a half hour of air, such problems could dissipate. Or wines with faint oxidation that is undetectable seconds after cork-pulling might show that flaw with an hour of air.

Were screw-capped and corked bottles all treated the same? Were all bottles served at exactly the same temperature? And we haven’t said anything yet about whether the tasting was blind or not. I realize the importance of blind tasting, and have written about it often, but I also believe in the importance of knowing what a brand is after the blind tasting to verify


that the wines conform to the house’s style, the region’s typicité, and the vintage’s character. So when I sit down to taste a few of one brand’s new wines, it usually isn’t done blind. I have never claimed I could be comprehensive in my tastings. Indeed, I believe no one can be and still maintain accuracy. I prefer to get to know a region and a brand and a winemaker, and track the wines with an infinite sense of awareness greater than any blind tasting could give. But remember: I still believe firmly in blind tasting. But results of such events are different from tasting wines from a producer with which I am very familiar. In some ways, tasting familiar wines also allows a sense of the house’s aging potential. Those brands with which I have a deep familiarity come in for direct criticism based on my awareness of the winery’s past history. I admire consistency. I feel a comfort level with some brands. It is one reason I will often show great support for the same names (Gary Farrell, Dutton-Goldfield, Navarro,

Morgan, Stony Hill, Cathy Corison, Alquimista, David Ramey, Frog’s Leap, Fox Run of New York, Chehalem, Reustle Prayer Rock, and Brandborg of Oregon and a handful of others), and possibly a bit less enthusiasm for brand-new names whose products might be flashy the first year out, but which fade and/or change in the mode ’o day. On the other hand, there is excitement in seeing new brands that come along with pizzazz and evince delight because of courage on the part of winemakers. A mix of the two makes for drama, and continues my quest for new subjects each week. Still, blind tastings are valid as long as the tasters do not attempt to be comprehensive.

Dan Berger lives in Sonoma County, Calif., where hepublishes “Vintage Experiences,” a weekly wine newsletter.Write to him at [email protected].

Double Gold Tasting Notes from the 2018 Tasters Guild International Wine JudgingBy Judges Jane Duralia, Larry Elletson and Dick Scheer

UP TO $8.00

Barefoot Cellars N.V. Riesling, CaliforniaTrue Riesling nose with that sunny California demeanor, it features appealing acid etch that tingles the nostrils. At 7.0 RS, it‛s rightly sweet, tasting of peach, apricot, and vanilla creme. Fully as intended, this will get a lot of folks started on Riesling. Bravo! Serve with lemon pound cake.

Jacob’s Creek 2017 Moscato Classic, AustraliaSubtle citrus on the nose with honey or honeysuckle bringing up the bouquet. The sugar level gives this wine a very soft mouthfeel. The flavor leans towards honey without a lot of fruit to muddy up the wine’s complexity. Serve this with sparkling water over ice and enjoy the afternoon at the beach.

Barefoot Cellars NV Malbec, CaliforniaDeep ruby color. Black cherry with a hint of mint in the nose. Dark fruit notes on the tongue with acidic follow-thru. Full bodied and a good value for the money. Serve with grilled ribs, hamburgers, lamb, and goat/feta cheese.

St James Winery NV Country White, MissouriStone fruit on the nose without a hint of citrus. The flavors lean towards pears with a touch of apricot. This is a very chewable wine as far as mouth feel. A very nice wine for the price point. Match it with General Tzo’s Chicken and watch the flavors play.

Barefoot Cellars NV Rosé, CaliforniaStrawberry cake frosting aroma. Attractive strawberry taste, too. Fully what it intends to be. Very, very well crafted. Appealing to a wide audience. Serve with a Western omelet.

$8.01 TO $10.00

Baron Herzog 2017 Chenin Blanc, CaliforniaHerbaceous, floral overtones. Soft, pleasant mouth feel, refreshing fruit in mid palate. Hint of Mediterranean spices. Roasted Greek chicken with roasted butternut squash cubes and grilled garlic asparagus.

Barefoot Bubbly NV Prosecco, ItalyAttractive mousse and bubbles. Slightly sweet version of a Prosecco but not cloying. Enjoy at ice cold temperature but also give strong consideration for using this as a base for your weekend Mimosas!


St. Julian Winery NV Michcato, MichiganPleasant aroma of stone fruit with a slight touch of raw almonds. Excellent balance between the fruit and acid. Enjoy this wine with Vietnamese Pho or spicy Thai food.

Hazlett 1852 Vyds. NV White Cat, New YorkJust the nose tells you that this is a wine made with American grapes. I’m guessing that this is primarily a Concord wine with a touch of Niagria to round out the nose. Blend this with sparkling water or club soda for a refreshing summer drink.

L.A. Cetto 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon, MexicoDark berry/stone fruit surrounds the palate, with a pleasurable experience. Lingering finish enjoying the tannic finish. Can stand up to an Herbaceous Meatloaf (Veal, pork, beef) seasoned with bacon, herbs and a Worcestershire influence.

Eagles Landing Winery NV Campfire Hooch, IowaRich aroma, like a fresh cup of mixed berries, pleasantly balanced, fruity through thepalate, lovely crisp finish. Easy drinking wine, can stand alone or with a cheese boardof Havarti, Brie, blue cheese and Gorgonzola.

Barefoot Bubbly NV Berry Sparkling, CaliforniaA very delightful sparkler with a nice mousse that falls slowly and the bubbles keep coming. Exceptional effervescence in the mouth with a full fruit flavors. Well balanced and long lasting aftertaste. Drop a couple of frozen raspberries or strawberries in the glass and enjoy the beach.

Cedar Creek Winery 2017 Waterfall Riesling, WisconsinThis is an off-dry Riesling in the Mosel style. Slight petrol on the nose with a hint of “bridal veil” blossoms. Lots of fruit on the palate and aftertaste. Try this with a nice wienersnitzel topped with fresh squeezed lemon juice and spaetzle dumplings on the side.

Eagles Landing NV Blackberry, IowaIntense blackberry nose, distinctive fresh fruit in palate. Superb berry finish with lingering natural fruit sweetness. Great with a medium flavored cheese board or would be a wonderful reduction sauce for a pork tenderloin.

Thirsty Owl Wine Co. 2017 Diamond, New YorkPleasant aromatic qualities, crisp fruit in the palate with a hint of Muscadine influence. Lingering fruit finish. This easy drinking hybrid wine will compliment a hearty stew, hamburgers, or simple macaroni and cheese.

$10.01 TO $13.00

Carmenet 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, CaliforniaBlack cherry nose with a hint of black pepper. Flavor runs towards sweet Bing cherries and fully ripened blackberry. No overpowering spice or tannin on the finish. Pair this with a grilled flank steak or pork loin. The meat needs a little char to bring out the wine’s highlights.

Campo Viejo 2016 Garnacha Rioja, SpainDark red in color, still a young wine. Dark fruit with just a touch of anise on the nose. Nice fruit/acid balance with more tannin than acid on the finish. Still young and tight. Serve with a herbed roast beef with roasted brussel sprouts or root vegetables.

Conviction Wines, 2016 “The Industrialist,” British Columbia, CanadaIntense Sauvignon Blanc flavor and acid but with a touch of Muscat sweetness. Light on the tongue with a very long finish. This wine finishes with notes of stone fruit (apricot) and would be excellent with grilled shrimp and calamari drizzled with garlic infused olive oil.

Carmenet 2016 Pinot Noir, CaliforniaBlended berries, vibrant fruit, mellow tannins, soft fruit on palate, lightly balanced.Pairs well with Beef Stew/ cubed steak and gravy, vegetable lasagna and Wiener Snitzel

Ackerman NV Mead, IowaA light hint of honey in the nose and a slight hint of orange in the aroma. Pleasantly balanced given the 9.0 residual sugar. A well made Mead for the senses that is sure to please. Serve with baked Brie.

Conviction 2016 “Dreamers & Schemers,” British Columbia, CanadaSharp acidic nose, earthy, hint of fields of flowers, mellow palate, and soft finish. Spicy Beef Enchiladas, Fish Tacos with spicy sauce. Wine will soothe out the sharpness of the food, mellow fruit finish. Excellent food wine!


Great American Wine Co. 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, CaliforniaRich, fruit forward, slight green pepper / vegetal nose. Round palate fruit enhanced. Tannins nicely balanced with a lingering finish. Seared pork tenderloin medallions, roasted cauliflower with garlic accents.

Breezy Hills 2017 Edelweiss, IowaLuscious apple/pear fruit. Creamy mid palate of sweetness. Soft, lingering finish. Would be at home on the dinner table of Roasted Turkey breast, herb gravy, creamy parsley potatoes small fresh English Peas/braised carrots.

Duck Creek Vineyard 2017 Black Current Mead Wine, WisconsinDelightful cherry/berry compote nose and carried into the black currant, honey and grape flavors all through the palate. Pleasant lingering finish. Use the wine to caramelize or combine with apples and pears and create a fruit Gazette (baked crust engulfed fruit/glaze).

Chateau Petit Michel 2016 Cabernet Franc, New JerseyVery dark-fruited for Cabernet Franc. Very velvety, luxurious. Nicely spicy aroma too. Overall, this is Cabernet Franc on steroids. 2016 growing season heat summations brought it to maximum ripeness. Super-sized and wonderful. Serve with venison roast.

$13.01 TO $16.00

Braganini Reserve 2017 Tempranillo Rosé, MichiganFruity bouquet, hints of strawberry, floral overtones. An excellent example of today’s popular style of dry rosé. A real consumer pleaser. Pairs well with Chicken Divan, Turkey Tetrazzini, Grilled Scallops with a pea risotto.

Langetwins Winery 2017 Sangiovese Rosé, CaliforniaSoft aromas of strawberry and raspberry meshed with tropical melon fruit in the mouth feel followed by a pleasing dry sensation in the back of the palate. The structure/palate of this lovely dry rosé would present an interesting pairing with a five cheese Mac and cheese topped with Bacon crumbles.

Campo Viejo NV Cava Grand Brut Reserva, SpainAttractive creamy, doughy, leesy yeast-autolysis aromas suggest this has had long aging on its bottle lees. Not a hint of that earthiness that marks lesser Cavas. The mousse is exuberant, which gives this Cava a very dry impression. Unlike many of its peers, this is buoyant

enough to serve as an aperitif. Amazing subtlety here. Bravo! A perfect match with tapas-like appetizers.

Brys Estate 2017 Riesling/Pinot Gris, Old Mission Peninsula, MichiganAgreeable petrol in the nose. Pleasurable mouth feel. The Pinot Gris adds a very nice complexity to the Riesling making this wine capable of crossing various food categories. Pair with baked cheese, fresh fruits (green grapes and strawberries). Also serve with a firm white fish like Mako shark or cod.

Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2015 Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, New YorkA satisfying hint of a petrol nose, dry floral back notes as far as bouquet. Honeysuckle finish on the tongue with a hint of white pepper. Try this with Thai Pad Thai or Vietnamese Pho.

Ferrante 2016 “Golden Bunches” Dry Riesling, OhioNon-ripe stone fruit, white peach, nectarine, slight petrol, round full mouth feel, creamy, fruity. Would pair well with Quiche Lorraine for brunch and outdoor entertaining.

Laurentide Winery 2016 Pinot Gris, MichiganCitrus, sharp fruity nose, fruit flavor (oranges, Kiwi, apricot). Soft, pleasing palate. Pair nicely with Baked Scrod topped with roasted peppers, onions and sliced tomatoes topped with Havarti cheese or marinate fresh shrimp over mixed greens.

Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2016 Semi-dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, New YorkCrisp, light, fruity aromas of apple, pear, and a hint of melon. Medium mid-palate, creamy mouth feel, long lasting fruit in the finish. An agreeable companion for homemade pasta (linguine) with white clam sauce.

Dakota Sun Gardens 2017 Aronia, North Dakota Rich berry aroma. Full bodied, fruity mouthfeel from this little known prairie grown fruit used long ago in Native American diets. Lingering semi-sweet, honey-like finish. Good Pizza or BBQ enhancer.

Jacob’s Creek 2016 Reserve Shiraz, AustraliaEnticing blackberry bouquet. Slight hint of alcohol. Black fruit is predominant on the tongue with surprisingly low acidity. Full mouth feel. Aftertaste runs toward sweet cherry without any acid. Pair this with smoked meats, pheasant, or dry rubbed ribs without sauce.


Domaine Berrien Cellars 2016 Red Satin, Michigan Light cherry nose, enduring fruit flavors on the palate. Soft lingering finish. Good with Spanish omelet, Sunday brunch, Country Style steak and creamy garlic potatoes.

Heron Hill Winery 2016 Riesling Semi-Dry, Finger Lakes, New YorkA very pretty peaches-and-cream Riesling aroma. A lovely degree of ripeness in this vintage. In youth, the acidity remains lightly coated with sweetness. Nonetheless, it’s up to its calling. Harmoniously accomplished, and not excessively fruity on the palate, this will prove versatile at the table. Offer in confidence with cold shrimp salad.

Thirsty Owl Wine Co. 2016 Riesling Semi-Sweet, Finger Lakes, New YorkFreshness and lift here. It penetrates and tingles the nostrils. It’s a nose you can feel. Nice, peachy Riesling take. Creamy texture on the palate. The acidity is up to the sweetness, so there’s no sense of sticky-sweet taste. Good flavor intensity. Very versatile at the table thanks to its degree of acidity. Beautiful Finger Lakes Riesling. Serve with truite au bleu.

Ferrante 2016 Riesling Signature Series, OhioBrisk, cool-climate Riesling. A clear, stimulating and ventilating take on Riesling. Flavorful under ripe peach and Granny Smith apple. Good acidity, still slightly masked by its sweetness. Pleasing tenderness to the taste. Yet another Double Gold-worthy Eastern American Riesling. Delicious with pan-fried walleye.

Prairie Berry Winery NV “Calamity Jane,” South DakotaThe category is Concord. The aroma is of well made, spot on Concord, crafted to reveal aromatic clarity without tipping to overwhelming foxiness. Handsome. Flavorful. Pleasantly balanced at 9.0 RS against innate Concord astringency and bitterness. Clean, inviting, long lasting aftertaste. A hallmark Concord achievement. Tells the tale. Serve with chocolate-dipped figs.

Chateau Grand Traverse 2016 Gruner Veltliner, MichiganThis is an excellent example of Gruner Veltliner. Lots of floral on the nose, with a very good mouth feel. While the acid cuts the richness of the wine, the finish is excellent and long lasting. Serve this with fried chicken and fried okra. The acid will cut the frying taste and accentuate the flavor of the chicken and okra.

$16.01 TO $20.00

North 42 Degrees Estate 2017 Sweet Riesling, Ontario, CanadaVery bright, cool, northern apple and peach Riesling aromas. Certainly up to the quality level of the Niagara Peninsula Rieslings. Ample sweetness countered by ample acidity. Good flavor intensity. Singular for its regionality. Not a knockoff of a Riesling from any of the more familiar winegrowing zones. This is very versatile at the table thanks to its modest 2.9 RS. Present with cantaloupe wedges wrapped in thin-sliced Westphalian ham.

M. Lawrence Winery 2017 “Once” Sparkling Riesling, Michigan Fruity aroma. Crisp with nice mouthfeel. Lingering fruity finish. A skillfully made demi-sec sparkler. Will be delightful with a vegetable (mushroom, zucchini or asparagus) bacon frittata.

With the Wind Winery 2016 Expanse Fresh Red, South DakotaMedium dark red fruit. Light pepper. Hint of Green Pepper, Medium palate feel. Acidic finish with overtones of light fruit. Serve with grilled beef, pork roast or a nice thick Rib Eye.

Braganini 2016 Chambourcin Reserve, Lake Michigan Shore, MichiganGenuine and generous varietal attributes. Beautiful, dignified, completely ripe and proud Chambourcin. My favorite non-vinifera Eastern American red varietal. This reminds of a southern Rhone Valley red wine of a cool vintage. It expresses strawberry, raspberry, black pepper, and Provencal herb-flower airs. There‛s a roundness, breadth, and depth about it that suggests barrel aging. Flavorful, accurate, and well balanced in terms of fruit richness and fruit acidity. Outstanding Chambourcin. Pair it with cassoulet.

Spero Winery 2014 “Vino è Buono” Cabernet Sauvignon, ColoradoEngaging old black cherry fruit aroma and influenced flavor profile. Could be paired with an old country stew (meat /potatoes/ veggies). The vegetable influence enhances and mellows out the acidity for a beautiful marriage of flavors.


Rove Estates 2017 Riesling, MichiganAroma of crispy, fresh fruit. Crisp bright flavor. Creamy, medium dry mouthfeel. Balanced acidity. Pairs well with Tomato Bisque, Seafood Chowder, or simple Thai dishes.

Santa Barbara Winery 2016 Chardonnay, CaliforniaAppealing fresh fruit aromatics. A delightful blend of berries selected from a mixture of cool and warmer climate vineyards. Lightly oaked with lingering spicy fruit in finish. Pairs well with Steamed Mussels in a garlic and white wine broth.

Chateau Fontaine 2017 Pinot Blanc, Leelanau Peninsula, MichiganBreathless, bright, clear, classic varietal aroma. Perhaps the best-ever vintage in this fabulous Chateau Fontaine Pinot Blanc series. Certainly a challenger to the great 2013 and 2014 that won unprecedented back-to-back trophies at the Michigan Wine Competition. Tense, tailored apple and melon varietal aromas. Juicy honey crisp apple flavor. Already perfectly accomplished at this young age. Triple Gold on my scoresheet; perfect marks. Serve with rainbow trout and slivered almonds.

Truro Vineyard of Cape Cod 2016 Chardonnay, MassachusettsSuperbly oaked; a beautiful caramel-toffee impression, lightly applied, so the fruit comes forth. And the fruit is wonderfully ripe, while crisp and northern-grown too. Great oak/fruit display and harmony. On the palate, subtle cool-climate apple emphasis. Chardonnay character and ultra-subtle oak extracts. Good body, fullness, acidity, and balance. The complete picture. Very versatile at the table including sage-rubbed roast chicken.

Blumenhof 2017 Vignoles, MissouriSubtle flowers on the nose and bouquet of honeysuckle or Lilies of the Valley. Nice mouth feel with a quite pleasant aftertaste that continues long after the initial sip. Touch of honey on the tongue and then the fruit kicks in. Predominately a sweet Red Delicious flesh taste with a follow up of Lichee fruit. Serve with a crisp green salad of arugula and walnuts.

Truro Vineyards of Cape Cod NV Diamond, Massachusetts Crisp, fresh aroma with just a hint of foxiness, light tropical fruit flavor on the palate. Grape similar to Muscadine flavor and does well in the Northeast. Pairs well with Venison Chili or Venison Roast with roasted root vegetables.

Brys Estate 2016 Riesling Reserve, Old Mission Peninsula, MichiganFresh and bright nose; in fact, crystalline clarity to its Riesling aroma. Special apple and orange facets of Riesling. Wonderfully brisk, northern grown Riesling acidity balanced by 2.0 RS ‛Kabinett‛ sweetness. The flavors are still building. The textural harmony is already spot on. Fully deserving of its award. Offer a glass or two with planked whitefish.

Soaring Wings Vineyard 2016 Omaha Red, NebraskaRuby red in color with good depth. Light in nose with hints of Blackberry and a hint of cranberry. Dry with good sugar acid balance. Aftertaste continues after several swallows. Moderate tannin with blackberry and wild/sour cherry on the tongue. Serve with venison, roasted pork with a nice layer of fat to counter the acid.

Chateau Fontaine 2016 Pinot Noir, Michigan Bright fruity nose, claret color, mixed berries, hint of melon. Light on the palate with balanced acidity. Would pair well with roasted vegetables, eggplant parmesan, vegetable flatbread, and grilled pork tenderloin.

$20.01 TO $25.00

Alexander Valley Vineyards 2014 Zinfandel Redemption, Dry Creek Valley, CaliforniaSweet fruited, black fruited, bold. Certainly a substantial, forthright Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel effort. Full measure of AVV oakiness. This winery presents everything full blast. This one goes to eleven. Little wonder at 16.1% alcohol. Wears its power well because it has so much fruit sweetness and succulence. Quite a bit of tannin yet, so serve it with hearty fare like Kansas City style spareribs.

North 42 Degrees Estate 2017 Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc, Ontario, CanadaLong mousse with nice bubble activity. Citrus (lime) on the nose with crisp citrus flavors. This bubbly has a long lasting finish. Try serving with freshly shucked oysters or a bucket of steamer mussels. Yum!

Rove Estates 2017 Pinot Blanc, MichiganEnticing crispy tree fruit aroma. Lovely pear and melon flavors on the palate, nicely balanced and a smooth lingering finish. Pairs well with mixed green salad of fresh pears, walnuts and Manchego cheese shavings.


B Side/North Coast 2016 Pinot Noir, CaliforniaRich berry fruit, hint of cassis, rich depth in palate, acid balanced, rich mouth feel. Yearns for slight fattiness of grilled pork with a fruit reduction sauce, grilled lamb shanks (Osso Bucco) and arugula, blue cheese and grilled pear salad. St. James Winery 2016 Dry Vignoles, MissouriNothing says Vignoles like a wine with a very floral nose. This one has it. Tasting just continues the floral aspect of the wine. The richness is expressed in the mouth feel asking to be savored and chewed. The taste is apricot and pears with a touch of honey. Serve this with chicken fajita that has been marinated in a chili/sriracha sauce and a mix of red, orange, and yellow peppers.

Nevada Ridge 2015 Primitivo, NevadaRich, dark fruit aroma, blackberry, anise blend, fruit through the palate. Slight pepper notes in the finish. Food friendly wine. Pairs well with beef stew, chili, mixed vegetable and meat casserole with a creamy sauce.

Von Stiehl 2014 Montepulciano, WisconsinRich deep color as well as aroma: dark berries, very food friendly. Enjoy with deli sandwiches, grilled pimento, turkey and cheese, club sandwich.

Laurentide Winery 2017 Pinot Noir Rosé, MichiganStrawberry/melon nose, fresh crisp aroma, small berries in palate taste. Delicate yet confident flavors. Good food wine with the acidity necessary to pair w/ certain foods. Chicken Chimichanga, hazelnut crusted roasted salmon. Spinach, gorgonzola, strawberry salad.

Cuvee Wine Cellars 2013 Merlot, Carneros, CaliforniaAttractive mixed berry flavors with earthy notes and distinctive acid. An excellent blending from neighboring vineyards for this boutique winery in San Carlos. Good with Chili, cream based soups like butternut squash will balance the acidity.

Brys Estate 2015 Cabernet Franc/Merlot, Michigan50/50. Dab of oak and plenty of ripe, red fruit. Very skillfully imparted barrel embellishments. Complete package. Double Gold nose for sure. On the palate, attractive herbal extras chime in: basil, oregano. Yes, ripe fruit flavor with oak fully in tandem. Very well fashioned overall. Enjoy it with duck breast and cherry sauce.

$25.01 TO $35.00

Santa Barbara Winery 2014 Sangiovese, Stolpmon Vyd., CaliforniaDeep ruby color, raspberry and black cherries in the nose. A little earthiness in the bouquet. Wild cherry and raspberry on the palate with a long finish. Excellent fruit/acid balance. Serve with a rich lasagna or a spicy putanesca pasta.

Effingham Winery 2017 Rosé, VirginiaAromas of cotton candy, melon, apricots and even floral hints. Soft, creamy mouthfeel, Lingering, pleasant acidic finish. Pair with Fried Calamari (not tangy sauce, just neat), mushroom bites or vegetable tempura.

Holy Cross Abbey Winery 2016 Merlot, ColoradoMixed berries, dark fruit, herbaceous. Warm alcohol feel in palate fruity overtoneswith a soft tannic finish. Bolognaise with homemade pasta or grilled enchiladas withSalas Verde.

Basalt Cellars 2015 Syrah, WashingtonRich cherry-berry aroma with hints of currants, voluptuous mouthfeel, lingering through the palate with gratifying finish. Grilled lamb chops with Moroccan rub, served with either steamed sugar snaps or balsamic seared Brussel sprouts and roasted red potatoes.

Morais Winery 2016 Cabernet Franc, VirginiaCabernet Franc is instant relief after Cabernet Sauvignon‛s power and tannin. Appropriate Cabernet Franc levity and red raspberry aroma. Plus an attractive ‛sweet‛ oak veneer. Everything fits together so well and delivers a whole greater than the sum of the parts. Even rounder and more succulent on the palate. Beautiful oak inter-weaves throughout its berry flavors. Masterful accomplishment. What an enormous showing for Virginia Cabernet Francs today! Offer with London Broil.

Balistreri 2016 Carignan, ColoradoSmoke with dark sweet fruits on the nose. Very nice balance between fruit and acid, Bing cherry notes on the tongue with a long finish. Suggested food pairing would be with Memphis style ribs.


Víctor Hugo 2015 Tannat, CaliforniaDeep, rich, red color from the rim edge to the center. Rich, dark fruit leaning towards blackberry and Bing cherries on the nose with just a touch of smoke. Fantastic mouth feel, this is a sit-down, enjoyable and chewable wine. Good balance between the fruit, sugar, and acid. A nice blend of black and sour cherries with blackberry coming in at the end. This wine demands high-end beef like a Delmonico with a pepper rub.

Fifty-Third Winery 2015 Cabernet Franc, VirginiaVirginia Cabernet Franc, where have you been all my life?! Sweet and succulent red raspberry fruit; masterfully oaked as well. Couldn’t ask for a better Cabernet Franc nose. Plus all its attributes reverberate on the palate. Well balanced. The fine grained tannin of Cabernet Franc. Serve with saddle of rabbit.

Forchini Winery 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, CaliforniaThe nose is wild cherry with a hint of white pepper. This wine has a very nice fruit/acid balance. Pleasing amount of tannin in the aftertaste with a long, amiable fruit finish. Drink this with a lightly veined Stilton cheese or serve with pork chops and wild mushrooms.

$35.01 TO $50.00

Bargetto 2016 Merlot Reserve, CaliforniaDark ruby color, very little separation in color between rim and base. Blackberries with blank cherry notes in the background. Nice mouth feel with a bit of acid finish. Dark cherry fruit continues through the finish. Serve with roasted pork loin with a salted crust and a side of mashed sweet potatoes.

Narmada Winery 2014 Cabernet Franc Reserve, VirginiaFull fruit richness and ripeness befitting of a Reserve wine. Generous oak vanillin incorporation here. too. And, they‛re in harmony. On the palate, beautiful baking-spices barrel extracts. Ripe red raspberry, toffee, mocha extras. First class; Double Gold all the way. Serve with lamb magrez sausages.

Fazeli Vineyards 2014 Shiraz, Temecula, CaliforniaDeep and valid Syrah aroma that reflects the coolness of Temecula. Plenty of varietal clarity in a New World setting. Smooth oak lacings. Well crafted, well balanced. Yes, a balance of acidity and glycerol. Try it with ostrich steaks.

Lafond Winery 2014 Chardonnay, Santa Rita Hills, CaliforniaDeluxe nose replete with oak vanillin and warm spices hovering over a fine Chardonnay citrus base. It really is luxurious! Despite the emphasis on lavish flavor and texture, the wine is well balanced thanks to its Chardonnay citrusy acidity, good power, and oak tannin framework. This is no cream-puff! A serious dinner wine, and will standout with roast goose.

$50.01 TO $65.00

LaFond 2013 Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills, CaliforniaDark cherries aroma. Hint of melon, soft fruit in palate, easy drinking. Seared veal with grilled onions/crumbled bacon or Hungarian goulash-minimal spices.

Spangler Vineyard 2014 Nebbiolo, OregonCotton candy nose, earthy, dark cherries/blackberries, vibrant wine flavors enhance.Serve with dry rub of herbs/garlic; BBQ Pork/Beef Sloppy Joes or simple country food.

ZD 2016 Pinot Noir, Carneros, California Ruby red color. Bright/promises of flavors, Med fruit/melon/plum, dark fruit, creamy rich palate. Very food compatible: burgers/blue cheese, Tapas type wine. $65.01+

ZD Wines 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, CaliforniaLarge, deep, dark, firm nose in keeping with the winery‛s style. Wonderfully integrated oak aromas as always. Oak never puts a lid on the fruit in ZD Cabernet Sauvignons. The palate has yet to yield up its potential flavor and texture bounties. Fresh acidity of the vintage. Full, fine tannins. Best to cellar this awhile. It has all the fixings. Then bring it out for entrecote en bearnaise.

ZD Wines 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa Valley, CaliforniaA year older and no doubt longer in cooperage, the 2014 Reserve is more forthcoming than the 2015 ‛regular‛ ZD Cabernet Sauvignon. Deeper, darker, and larger, this is befitting of a Reserve wine. And its aromatics are more demonstrative in terms of fruit, oak, and barrel aging. The palate is rounder, more velvety, and more accessible at present than the 2015. Well aerated, I could take this to the table without hesitation. Always a traditional, solid, and wonderful Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Indulge with chateaubriand and someone special.


The Mystery of Foam in the Kitchen By David Theiste, PhD

There are three foams that are common in the kitchen: milk foams (also called frothed milk), whipped cream and egg foams, or meringues. Milk foams are the least stable of the three, in part because the protein molecules in the milk that stabilize the foam are sparse in the milk. These foams are typically prepared just before they are served, for example your cappuccino has a freshly made milk foam. The foam does more than look nice in the cup, it helps prevent the formation of a skin on the surface of the drink, it also helps keep the drink warm by forming an insolating layer on the top of the beverage and slows down cooling caused by evaporation.

The Science of Foam If you take water in a jar and shake it up, nothing happens. If you add a bit of liquid soap and shake the mixture you get bubbles. What is going on? We have seen in the past how we can make mixtures of oil and water by making small droplets of oil and dispersing them into the water. These mixtures, called emulsions, are one example of what are more generally called “colloids.” Colloids are defined as having a “continuous phase” and a “dispersed phase” and in all cases are two substances that we do not normally think of as being soluble or miscible with each other to make a stable mixture. Another way we can make a colloid is with a gas (air) and a liquid. If we make drops of air and suspend them in the liquid we make what are called “foams.” By the way, a colloid where the liquid is dispersed in air is an aerosol, fog is an example of this. You have seen and probably made foams in your kitchen either by whipping cream or egg whites. In both cases the mechanical action of a whip or beaters will mix some air into the liquid and continued mixing will break the air bubbles down into smaller and smaller drops until the foam becomes stable; that is, it does not separate, or deflate.

Making Milk Foams: The keys to making stable dairy foams are to use the freshest milk available and keep it a cool as possible. Fortified milk has added protein like that usually found in low-fat milk and is more easily foamed. If you have an espresso machine with the steam attachment use at

least 2/3 cup of cold milk, even chilled in the freezer for a couple of minutes then keep the nozzle just under the milk surface.

• Pour fresh cold milk into a lidded jar, close the lid and shake vigorously for about 20 seconds (let the kids do the shaking)

• To stabilize the foam, remove the lid and micro-wave on high for 30 seconds, or until the foam rises to the top.

Cream foams are stable because the fat particles in water (remember that cream is an emulsion of fat drops in water) circle around air drops which are then surrounded by water. In order to make cream suitable for whipping it must contain at least 30% fat, this you will find in the grocery as “light” or single whipping cream. Cream containing more that 38% is called “heavy.” Light whipping cream will produce a lighter foam, however it is more prone to leak water, thus heavy cream with its denser and stiffer foam is generally preferred for baked goods and use as a decorative finish on desserts. Cream foams can be made by hand whisking, a recipe from Sir Kenelm Digby in 1699 calls for pouring cream into a dish and whisking for an hour in the winter and an hour and a half in the summer using a “bundle of hard rushes.” Today we can use a balloon whisk and chill the cream to reduce the amount of labor required to whip cream, or we could use an electric mixer. The mixer will not give quite the same volume as hand whipping, but will reduce the effort required. Cream foams can also be made using a pressurized canister, commercially available devices use pressurized cream with nitrous oxide, the gas dissolves in the fat in the cream, when the nozzle of the canister is opened the dissolved gas expands creating a light fluffy foam. You can take advantage of the pressurized canister with a “whipping siphon” a device that aerates fresh cream with a replaceable nitrous oxide canister. These devices allow the home cook to make flavored cream mixes (just add cocoa or vanilla and sugar to the cream in the siphon and shake a few seconds). In addition to making whipped cream I have been able to use my siphon to make foams of fruit. I have taken fruit, grapes, watermelon and cantaloupe and cut them into 1” pieces and put them in the siphon and use a CO2 charger to make “fizzy fruit”. Here is a white chocolate mousse recipe that I have used and liked very much, it comes from Bon Appetit magazine.


For White Chocolate Mousse

o 8 ounces white chocolate, chopped

o 1 cup chilled whipping cream

o 1 tablespoons light corn syrup

Preparation For the Mousse

Stir white chocolate, 1/4 cup cream and 1 tablespoon syrup in heavy small saucepan over low heat until chocolate is melted and smooth.Pour into medium bowl; cool to barely lukewarm. Using electric mixer, beat 3/4 cup cream in medium bowl to medium-firm peaks. Fold cream into white chocolate mixture in 2 batches. Divide mousse among 4 custard cups. Cover and refrigerate until firm, about 4 hours. (Can be prepared 2 days ahead.)

For the Chocolate Sauce

o 3o bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped

o 6 tablespoons cream

o 2 tablespoons corn syrup

For the Chocolate Sauce

Bring remaining 6 tablespoons cream and remaining 2 tablespoons corn syrup to simmer in heavy small saucepan over high heat. Reduce heat to low; add bittersweet chocolate and stir until melted and smooth. Cool to room temperature. Spoon enough sauce over each mousse to cover completely. Garnish with mint, if desired.

Retailer‛s Shelf By Dick Scheer, Village Corner - Ann Arbor, Michigan

Portell N.V. Cava Trepat Rosat Brut, Spain $15Vinicola de Sarral was founded in 1907 and began producing cavas in 1984. Cava is a term for Spanish sparkling wine made by the Champagne method, its use limited to just a few winegrowing regions, including Portell‛s origin, Conca de Barbera, west of Barcelona. Rare Trepat is the foundation of Portell‛s sparkling rose. A small amount of Trepat is grown outside this winery‛s vineyards. Good pink fruit character. Hefty and giving nose. Flavorful too. Strawberry and red raspberry. Fine mousse. Plenty of quality fruit personality. Finely textured. Ideal with tapas.

La Pepiere 2016 Muscadet Sevre Et Maine Sur Lie, France $15Muscadet vines thrive near the mouth of France‛s Loire River, along its tributaries Sevre and Maine. Most Muscadet wines rest on their lees in cisterns until bottled in spring following the harvest. Pepiere proprietor/winemaker Marc Ollivier hand-harvests from 40+ year old vines and ferments on native yeasts. The nose dazzles. Impressive grace, finesse, and delicacy. As well as plenty of body and give. On the palate, an elegant touch. Good acid, etch, and length. Volume as well as charm. Enjoy this ‛poor man‛s Chablis‛ with a plate of raw oysters.


Bertani 2016 Venezia-Giulia Pinot Grigio Velante, Italy $15Bertani was founded in 1857, around the time of the Italian unification. I‛ve proudly sold its wines for over 50 years. Bertani‛s Pinot Grigio, aged three months on its lees, hails from the far northeast corner of Italy. The nose is bright, crisp, full, even lucid. Golden Delicious apple, pear, citrus. The palate is juicy and clear. Apple, bay, and tonic. A joy for its clarity. Delicious with tuna-noodle casserole.

Chateau La Graviere 2017 Entre Deux Mers, France $9The heart of Bordeaux‛s winegrowing region is called Entre deux Mers, in English, ‛Between Two Seas.‛ Actually, its rivers that bound this peninsula: Dordogne and Garonne. EDM is a wellspring of everyday dry white Bordeaux wines. La Graviere is of 50% Semillon, 40% Sauvignon Blanc, and 10% Muscadelle. The nose is marked by racy Sauvignon and earthy Semillon impressions. On the palate, Sauvignon grass and citrus hovers over a Semillon foundation. Splendid with a plateau de fruits de mer.

Columna 2016 Rias Baixas Albarino, Spain $15Rias Baixas is a sub-zone of Galicia, northwest Spain, Green Spain. Albarino is its top white grape variety. Columna Albarino hails from granite soils in its southernmost sector. The nose sports freshness, zest, flair; aromas of quince, pear, honeysuckle. On the palate, there‛s very fresh citric and minerality. Beautiful flavor range and definition. Pair with chicken tikka masala.

Ryan Patrick 2016 Columbia Valley Chardonnay Naked, Washington $11This family winery at Leavenworth WA is named for the founders‛ two sons. It has only limited vineyard acreage so sources also from some of Columbia Valley‛s top sites. It‛s not the first to name its unwooded (or unoaked) Chardonnay ‛naked.‛ Columbia Valley is well suited to this type of Chardonnay presentation. Wow, a full, clear Washington Chardonnay without apple-citrus domination thanks to lees aging and partial malolactic fermentation. Its round mouthfeel is balanced by an astringent edge that invites poached salmon with a squeeze of lemon..

Tilia 2017 Salta Torrontes, Argentina $10Tilia is made at Bodegas Esmeralda, whose winemaker is also in charge of Catena‛s vineyards. Its Torrontes comes from a 5500’ elevation site near Salta, in northwest Argentina. Dry, aromatic Torrontes is the country‛s

signature white grape variety. Floral aromas: rose, mum. Clean, clean, clean. Clear as a bell. Yes, dry, cool, clear in the mouth too. Cold cream, gewurz like perfumes. Fine acid foil. Serve with pescado en cilantro.

Fantini 2017 Cerasuolo D‛Abruzzo Rosato, Italy $12 Fantini wines are fashioned at the Farnese winery. Farneses have been making wine in Abruzzo, on central Italy‛s Adriatic coast, since the 1600s. From Abruzzo‛s leading red grape, Montepulciano, this Cerasuolo (rose) was macerated with its grapeskins barely six hours to achieve its brilliant pink hue. It‛s sweet smelling, like strawberry creme. And vanilla frosting. Coolness and clarity in back, with great fresh strawberry character. Its palate features an attractive yin-yang of ripe and tart red fruits, especially cranberry and cherry. Melt sheep‛s milk cheese over scrambled eggs for a simple treat any meal of the day.

Hahn Family 2016 Central Coast Cabernet Sauvignon, California $15Nicky Hahn founded Hahn Family Wines in 1980. Last year, he was named an ‛American Wine Pioneer‛ by Wine Enthusiast magazine for his efforts in establishing the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA on California‛s north Central Coast. Of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, and 2% Malbec, this 2016 is certain to appeal to lovers of big, barrel aged Cabernets. 60% of the barrels were new. Real fruit intensity and fortitude on the nose. And plenty of oak. The taste confirms this is pretty darn husky, bulky and mouthfilling. Prominent Cabernet and oak flavors, as well as full texture. Big time steakhouse wine at a bargain price.

Bodega Piedra Negra 2017 Tunuyan Malbec Ruta 22, Argentina $12Named for the black, stony soils of the Uco Valley west of Mendoza, Piedra Negra was founded in 1992 by the Lurton brothers, scions of a famous Bordeaux dynasty. Ruta 22 is the main highway across northern Patagonia from port city Bahia Blanca to the Andes. The nose is rich and smoky. Thoroughly, this is one of the best vintages of Ruta 22. It‛s saturated with goodness. Yes, abundant flavors of cherry and pit, raspberry and seed, echo all its aromatic bounties. Match with Argentine beef empanadas. Or Michigan pasties!


La Capranera 2016 Campania Aglianico, Italy $15Campania‛s top red grape variety, Aglianico (derivative of ‛Hellenico,‛ its origin, Greece), is grown in vineyards lying in the midst of Cilento National Park, where graze an indigenous breed of black goats (capra nera). Classic, high toned Naples area Aglianico nose. Full, intense, penetrating black fruit. Joyous, buoyant. The taste reads fresh and accomplished. Sweet fruited, full varietal character. Well textured. Fine tannins. Delicious. Enjoy with Neapolitan pizza, preferably made with San Marzano tomatoes.

Marietta N.V. Lot 67 Old Vine Red, California $15The winery is at Geyserville and has 1500 acres of vineyards in Sonoma and Mendocino counties. Its lot series has been made since 1978. Lot #67 is from four vintages and at least five grape varieties and is 90% estate grown. Lot series reds range from 60% to 80% Zinfandel and include Petite Sirah, Syrah, Carignane, and a field blend of Italian varieties. Rich and right Zinfandel-emphatic nose. A confirmation of rich raspberry flavor laced with cracked black pepper on the palate. Good, full texture. Calls for nothing fancier than hamburgers off the grill.

Hopes End 2016 South Australia Red, Australia $12 The Trinchero family (of Sutter Home fame) has a stake in South Australia‛s Angove Family Vineyards. Grown in deep, sandy loam over limestone, Shiraz, Grenache,

Malbec, and Petit Verdot vines contribute to this Aussie classic. It sports an oak-barrel smoky potpourri plus raspberry Shiraz, strawberry Grenache, cherry Malbec, and blueberry Petit Verdot notions. The palate is lush with fruit filling contained in an oak framework. I‛m thinking BBQ spareribs with a sweet and spicy sauce.Bodegas Eguia 2013 Rioja Reserva Vina Eguia, Spain $14Vina Eguia was established in 1973 in Elciego, an historic village of Rioja Alavesa near Basque country. Eguia means ‛truth‛ in the Basque tongue. Its 2013 Reserva was sourced from 30-40 year old vines in both Alavesa and Rioja Alta. Suitable to Reserva standards, it was aged 24 months in American oak barrels (30% new) and a further year in bottle. Fine oak and fruit bouquet. Elegance, charm, proportion. Sandalwood aura. Yes, the palate confirms fine fruit, fine texture, fine oak. This summer, take a bottle or two to a pig roast.

Capriani Bellini, Italy $16Once frequented by Ernest Hemingway, Harry‛s Bar in Venice is an institution. In 1948, its founder, Guiseppe Capriani, invented a cocktail he named Bellini, composed of half each white peach pulp and Prosecco. Even if you can find Mediterranean white peaches, you can‛t do much better homemade than this bottled Bellini original. Gorgeous white peach and apple-citrus Glera (Prosecco grape) aromas. Yes, the palate talks white peach all the way. Balanced and delicious. Brunch on the deck beckons.

The Beauty of CarménèreBy Michael Schafer

As Malbec is to Argentina, Carménère is to Chile. Both are French in origin but have found their true homes in South America. Carménère is Chile’s unofficial national grape just as Malbec is the leading grape of Argentina. These neighboring South American countries produce some of the most flavorful wine from the Southern Hemisphere. History Wine historians surmise this wandering grape originated in Spain. They think it was brought to Italy by the Romans (those Romans drank a lot of wine) where it was blended with the Sangiovese grape from Tuscany. During their conquest of France the grape was planted in the Medoc area of Bordeaux. Whew! Now firmly ensconced in the Left Bank of Bordeaux, it became a blending grape for this famous region

in southwest France. Back in the day, it was a crucial component of the classic blend of red grapes used to craft claret. After the decimation of the French vineyards by the dreaded phylloxera invasion of the late 1800s, this grape was virtually ignored by the French. Some grape growers believed it had become extinct and it became known as the “lost grape of Bordeaux.” The Spanish conquistadors first brought wine to Chile in the mid 1500s. Vines planted around the valleys of Santiago almost immediately began to flourish in their new home, due to the sparse rainfall and hot days in the valleys. First known to have been brought to Chile in the mid 1800s, Carménère was planted as a field blend because it was vinified with Merlot and frequently described as “Merlot Chileano.” This cross between the Cabernet Franc grape and the Gros Cabernet grape is related to Merlot, and for hundreds of years Chileans believed it was a type of Merlot. In the 1990s French ampelographer (grape expert) Claude Valat noticed a difference in Carménère from


Merlot. Jean Michel Boursiquot, using DNA analysis, confirmed it was not Merlot but Carménère in 1998. Hooray! It now had a clear identity per the Chilean government! Carménère´ now thrives in the mountains and valleys of Chile. China’s booming wine industry has planted thousands of acres of Carménère grapes for use in producing red blends that are extremely popular in the world’s most populous country. This almost extinct varietal has an exciting future in the world of wine.

The Grape Carménère ripens a month to six weeks later than Merlot. If the grapes aren’t fully ripe, vegetal notes are noticeable. As the grapes fully ripen, flavors of dark berries, cocoa, chocolate and bell pepper illustrate the complexity of this charmer from Chile. Part of the reason Carménère is frequently associated with a peppery flavor profile is the presence of compounds called pyrazines. These pyrazines give wines made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Carménère their peppery characteristics. Carménère is a lot like its cousin Cabernet Franc. Cabernet Franc is a bit more peppery and less earthy than its cousin Carménère.

The Wine A delectable Carménère´ wine may feature aromas of eucalyptus, peppercorns, cocoa powder and even tobacco. The flavors evolve into dark fruits such as blueberry and blackberry, chocolate, smoke and paprika. This wine is made in a variety of styles from lighter bodied to a medium-bodied wine. Virtually no «monster» tannins are around to pucker up your taste buds! In the USA a single-varietal wine must be at a minimum of 75% of the varietal on the label. Yes, that Cabernet Sauvignon may have up to 25% of other grapes in your bottle! Chilean single-varietal wines are allowed only up to 15% other grape varieties in with the label grape. With Carménère, blending a bit of Syrah and or Cabernet Sauvingon may add depth and complexity, enhancing the

final product. The label will usually indicate the wine is from the Rapel Valley or the Colchagua Valley.

Pairing Carménère is a superb food pairing wine. Featuring lively acidity and relatively low tannins, it’s very flexible and is delicious with a wide variety of dishes. Its light to medium weight and frequent lusciousness complement an assortment of cuisines. Let’s look at a few tempting pairings.

Grilled meat with a chimichurri sauce from South America is a classic dish enhanced by Carménère. Potato dishes with paprika and cheese are wonderful with this spicy red wine. Italian cuisine like sweet and spicy sausages, salami, pizza and the classic Bistecca alla Fiorentina all benefit from this Chilean red wine. French food such as a Ratatouille,

Steak au Poivre, duck with sausage and lentils, and even cassoulet are complemented by Carménère. Staying in Europe, the Spanish dish of bean and sausage stew with mint, paprika, tomatoes is better with Carménère. Tapas of all types taste better with a bit of Chilean Carménère! Heading home for some “local” foods, try braised short ribs, rack of lamb with rosemary and garlic, Chile con Carne, and grilled ribs with your favorite Chilean wine. Most Carménère are available for between $10-$20, making it a great value priced wine for everyday enjoyment. It’s not for everyone, but if you enjoy a red wine with a little different flavor profile from the usual suspects of Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère should be on your radar!

Michael Schafer Esq., The Wine Counselor®, is the charismatic wine educator, speaker, Sommelier, C.S.W., writer and consultant who entertains while educating. His humorous and fun approach to wine is reflected in his trademark phrase, “I taste bad wine so you don’t have to”®


Those Mystical Momentsby Dr. Richard Vine, PhD

I believe my first “aha” wine moment was during a nice restaurant dinner with friends back during – let’s just simply say more than just a few years ago. It was selected by our host from a moderately priced list of several dozen alternatives, all without much descriptive heraldry to prime my taste buds for much more than just a pleasant wine. But the first sip embraced my nose, palate and tactile senses in a harmony that made this my first notion of sumptuous wine charisma. The food and seasonings combined with the time, place and company present to elevate this into nothing short of enchantment.

Surely every wine devotee has experienced such magic moments. Fortunately, for all of us there have since been many more similar magical flavor adventures. Young wine lovers yet to find this fascination have some very pleasing fulfillment ahead of them.

Enjoyment Put into Words It’s not easy for us to describe such taste memories. The idea of umami, or “savory taste,” comes to mind. Science literature indicates that umami is a response to glutamic acid which is our most prominent neurotransmitter. Somehow our most notable affinities of wine and food seem dimmed by explanations given over to just biochemistry. All of us have heard the rhetoric of a “symphony” of wine components becoming a synergy of enticing flavors. Such charming analogies include centuries of classic bards taking wine into eloquent words of romantic notions. Whether via music, the written word or cyber-enlightenment sprung upon us via modern electronic marvels, wine rapture remains personal – nice to talk about but a reality only when known first-hand. All great wines have a good chance of delivering rich satisfaction but not all of them have to score in the high 90’s to open that elusive nirvana of pleasure that is so unique to each one of us.

Perhaps this mystical tryst with wine has yet to be discovered by some enophiles. Fear not, it will happen to anyone who truly loves wine. Think how much actor Paul Giamatti in the 2004 movie, Sideways, turned people on to the notion of trying Pinot Noir – now perhaps some of them finding one or another having brought new “aha” moments up out of obscurity.

Curiously, the scourge that Giamatti’s character put upon Merlot has created curiosities for some to decide that for themselves. Petrus fans laying out several thousand dollars per bottle must think it’s pretty good!

Taste Something New Perhaps our best new wine adventures lurk in what academic marketers call the “inept set,” or those that our subconscious doesn’t allow us to consider. It takes the encouragement of a highly respected retailer or sommelier for most of us to spend perfectly good money on a wine appellation, varietal, vintage and/or brand that is shrouded by negative mindset. During a recent trip to the magnificent Okanagan vineyards of British Columbia (if you have never been there, don’t miss it) our host ordered a bottle of locally grown Pinot Blanc to pair with what my wife and I silently thought would be no match for a highly appealing starry flounder in a rich buttery-lemon sauce. We fully expected this white wine would be good but just too delicate for the dominating citrus zest. To our surprise, this Pinot Blanc expressed some tasty tart apple and nutty character that more than held its own and married perfectly with that delicious dish. It was yet another “aha” epicurean moment giving us cause to wonder whether Pinot Blanc winegrowing had advanced or our taste acceptors had evolved, or both. In any case, this experience introduced us to Pinot Blanc in a whole new “evoked set.”

Both wine and human physiology are dynamic, always changing, with new pleasures awaiting those of us who would open our minds to pursue them.

The major wine media floods us with wine possibilities and all successful wine critics have, of course, their own sets of individual acceptance and goodness that we may deem skeptical. It is great fun to hurdle such barriers into adventures that could, and probably will, discover some to reconsider some amazing new magical “aha” moments.

On the other hand, I don’t care what they say about Kalimotxos. I’m not trying that again.

Dr. Vine has authored four wine books and is Purdue University’s Professor of Enology Emeritus. He retired after 21 years as the Wine Consultant for American Airlines


Ask Tasters Guild

By Joe Borrello

Q. Please address the subject of “wine futures.”

A. Like many other consumable products affected by the laws of supply and demand, to achieve the lowest possible price of fine wines, purchase may be considered even before release to the general public. This is called “buy-ing in wine futures” and can be a very risky business for the uninformed. Each year at the conclusion of harvest, many top premium wineries and estates will offer a lim-ited amount of their new vintage wine at an established price payable in advance, but delivered one to three years in the future. Since the commitment to purchase these wines is made well in advance of their maturity, you must either have an extremely well-educated palate or a lot of trust in someone else’s opinion and knowledge of the wine. Depending on the wine’s development and inter-national dollar evaluation at the time of release, you may or may not have made a good purchase. Wine futures are usually available through specialty wine shops.

Q. I just bought two cases of a Bordeaux chateau. I want these to sit for a while, but when I got home, I noticed the top foil section of the bottle spins around and seems loose. Should I be concerned?

A. Not to worry, the foil section is for aesthetic purposes only and the sealing machine on the bottle line just mal-functioned. However, if the corks are loose or popping up - that’s a problem! As far as laying them down for awhile, I would suggest drinking a bottle periodically to see how much tannin is present and if the wine will improve much with aging. It all depends on the wine itself and your indi-vidual taste.

Q: Why do wine bottles have corks?

A: The cork is an organic closure that permits the in-terchange of air with wine at a rate that allows wine to mature. Wine bottles with corks should be stored either upside down or on their sides, so the cork remains moist and does not dry out and shrink. If this happens, the clo-sure is no longer tight and excessive aeration takes place. Too much exposure to air may cause wine to darken and lose some of its bouquet. The taste will begin to gradually change. The extreme end product of this natural process is vinegar. A simple squeeze of the cork will give a small clue as to what to expect in the wine. If it is hard and dry,

or crumbly from the corkscrew, the wine may have been stored improperly and may be a sign of poorer quality. If the cork is soft and moist, but not mushy, it’s an indica-tion of proper storage. A moldy cork top is not necessar-ily a bad sign. Just wipe off the lip and taste the wine for the true test. By the way, the vast majority of corks come from the trunk bark of cork oak trees grown in Portugal. A much smaller percentage come from the coast of South-ern France, Algeria, Tunisia, Morocco and from the Italian islands of Sardinia, Sicily and Corsica.

Q: If a bottle of wine has sediment in the bottom, does it mean the wine has gone bad?

A: The sediment is a completely natural part of the aging process for some wines. All that is necessary is to decant the wine into another container, separating it from the sediment before drinking it. Place the bottle upright for a couple of hours so the sediment settles before pouring. Be sure to pour slowly. And, don’t disturb the sediment. It will not harm you, but it does have a slightly bitter taste. You may consider opening red wines as soon as possible after ordering in a restaurant. This allows the wine to breathe. Exposing the wine to air for a short period en-hances the flavor and bouquet of many red wines.

Q: Does wine make a good marinade?

A: Meat may be tenderized and its flavor enhanced by marinating in red wine for an hour or two. You'll also find adding white wine to a seafood marinade will break down the odorous fish oils, just as lemon juice and vinegar do. Marinating should be done in glass, porcelain or materials other than aluminum, which has a tendency to give an off-flavor to a wine marinade. Some semi-sweet wines and champagnes are particularly pleasing as a marinade for fresh fruit served in a wine glass, plus they add an elegant touch to your table setting.

Q. What does wine add to a sauce and how do I use it?

A. Wine is a seasoning like herbs or spices, only in liquid form. It accents and improves natural food flavors. It also adds a certain flair to ordinary cooking; and yet, it is easy to use. Instead of adding water, which is tasteless, to your recipe, substitute some wine. You'll discover a much more fragrant and better-tasting dish. Add the wine near the end of your cooking for more intense flavoring.

barrels: what they contribute to beer, wine and liquor ...jun 18, 2018 · barrel wood treatment...

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