B a o B a B s , B i k i n i sand bird’s eye views On a three-day trip

to an uninhabited private island off the MOZAMBICAN coast, Lynette Botha experiences more than her fair share of BuCket-lIst experIeNCes

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he helicopter blades begin to whir and I feel a mix of anxiety and exhilaration. As if a three-day holiday on a private island in the Quirimbas Archipelago off the north coast of Mozambique isn’t enough of a thrill, I am about to experience my first helicopter flight too – the only way to access the luxury Azura Quilalea retreat.

A tiny island outcrop, Quilalea is pristine; uninhabited with the sole exception of the nine seafront villas

that make up the private retreat. the 25-minute flight from pemba goes by in a flash of blue hues and lush greens below and, more quickly than I can shout ‘pina colada’, we land on the granitic island. In true rookie style, I try to disembark the helicopter with my headset still firmly affixed, but that’s soon forgotten as we set foot in paradise.

this is a place you come to relax and feel indulged. the villas are spaced to ensure maximum privacy; four are aspected to benefit from the sunrise, another four from the sunset, and the extravagant Villa Quilalea is further secluded, perched atop a cliff with its own private pool and a wooden ladder affixed to the rock-face providing private access to the beach below. Built from local stone, hardwoods and coconut palm thatch, the villas blend seamlessly with the natural environment. While every suite is luxuriously kitted out, nothing feels ostentatious – this is barefoot luxury in every sense of the term. the personal touch is also evident in a bottle of French bubbles waiting for us upon arrival (and not just any bottle – it’s from owners Christopher and

stella Bettany’s vineyard in France). there are individual leis made of palm leaves as a welcome, and the ‘do not disturb’ sign is a wooden fish with ‘shhh’ painted in blue. WiFi, tVs and ipod docking stations are replaced with books, sun loungers and hammocks. It’s bliss.

As wonderful as the villas are, the true beauty of Quilalea lies in the surrounding nature. towering baobabs more than a thousand years old are dotted all over the island; endangered turtles swim ashore to lay their eggs in its protected coves; the resident monitor lizards slither around at a languid pace; verdant mangrove forests give way for kayaks; and it is one of only two places in the whole archipelago where you are able to snorkel directly from the

WiFi, tVs and ipod docking stations are repl aced with books, sun loungers and hammocks. it’ s bliss

tbeach. this is why among Azura’s core priorities are a dedication to conservation and to the various communities who live on the surrounding islands; it’s one of only a handful of resorts in Mozambique where locals are contributors and stakeholders.

We experienced this personally one morning. Management couple leon and Claudia Joubert alerted us that turtles had laid their eggs in a precarious spot near the beach bar and that due to a passing storm earlier in the week, much of the sand had been washed away. As the turtles are endangered, it was imperative that everything possible be done to preserve the eggs and relocate them to somewhere safer. While we feasted on a breakfast of smoothies, fresh juices, a fry-up of our choice (for me, a vegan, they whipped up some

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A sunset cruise on a traditional Mozambican dhow is an absolute

must while at Quilalea below You can snorkel directly from the main beach bottom The library is the

perfect spot to escape the heat in the late afternoon

from top The villas are spacious and light-filled, offering the best of

indoor-outdoor living; kayakers navigate their way through the verdant mangrove forests; the coastline is rugged and wild

Return flights for two on Airlink (JHB to Pemba International Airport) Return transfers from Pemba to QuilaleaA three-night stay for two in a seafront villa at Azura QuilaleaAll meals and non-alcoholic beveragesSunset cocktail of the dayUse of snorkelling equipment and kayaks Evac medical insurance

PRIZE IncludEs

scrambled tofu), they did their research, contacted the environmental authorities and formulated a plan – one we were allowed to participate in.

Armed with marker pens and a sand-filled tray in which to place the eggs, we gently dug in the beach sand with our hands until we located them. the purpose of the markers was to ‘dot’ the top of each egg to ensure that they were placed in the same position as they were laid once relocated. turtle eggs are soft to the touch and very fragile; we had to lift them ever so gently, place them in the tray filled with sand and then dig a hole on a ‘safer’ side of the island to bury them. then it was up to nature to take its course. (A few weeks after our trip, the retreat emailed images of some of these rescued turtles making their way to the sea for the first time!)

While we were busy being eco-warriors, staff members were setting up a secret lunch for us on a secluded beach, where we enjoyed the freshest seafood, salads, stir fries and some perfectly chilled white wine, then paddled and swam in the protected bay for the rest of the afternoon. this is par for the course at Quilalea – no one day is the same and secret activities and surprises are a daily occurrence.

On our second day, just before dusk, we were summoned to the beach, where a traditional Mozambican dhow was waiting to take us on a sunset cruise – complete with comfortable bean- bag seating, cocktails, roasted nuts and coconut, and local guides sharing stories about the area. On arrival back at the retreat, tin hot tubs filled to the brim with bubbles and local flowers had been set up on our villa’s deck, so that we could further enjoy the sunset and, for dinner, tables were arranged on the main beach for a seaside supper by candlelight under the stars.

to take my relaxation to the next level, on the last day I booked a massage at the cliff-side spa, built into the rocks, with large windows that overlook the sea below and allow a balmy breeze to stream through the treatment area while you zone out.

While your every need is catered to by your personal Mozambican host, you never feel harassed or hurried. the pace is slow and the staff are happy to be as attentive as you would like them to be. Besides swimming, snorkelling, diving, kayaking and fishing (you can catch your own dinner should you be so inclined), going for leisurely walks in the robinson Crusoe-esque landscape, sipping cocktails in the communal pool, or just enjoying the peace and serenity of the island from the comfort of your private villa deck, you could also take a day trip to neighbouring Ibo Island, visit the rainbow school (supported by Azura), or enjoy one of many other excursions.

It’s difficult to sum up the experience, but the abundant spirit of Quilalea remains with you long after the helicopter lands back in pemba, and the bird’s eye view of the pristine archipelago will be etched into your memory forever. mc

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the b i r d ’s e y e v i e w of the pristine archipel ago will be e t c h e d i n t o y o u r m e m o r y f o r e v e r

GETTING THEREAirlink offers a wide network of flights within Southern Africa, including direct flights between Joburg and Pemba in Northern Mozambique weekly. Through Airlink’s alliance with SAA, travellers connect conveniently with SAA, their partner airlines and other carriers throughout Southern Africa and the world. www.flyairlink.com, 011 978 1111

CloCkwise from left Lynette takes in the beauty of the island; a guest assists

with the turtle egg relocation; hot tubs filled with bubbles and flowers at sunset; typical

rustic, seaside-inspired decor

how to enterTo enter this competition, and to see the full terms and conditions of all Marie Claire competitions, visit Marieclaire.co.za/win before 30 June 2017.

Wina magical three-night

getaWay for tWo to aZUra QUilalea private island in

moZamBiQUe, Worth r109 000

It’s an idyllic picture – escaping to an uninhabited island where blue waters roll effortlessly onto a sun-kissed stretch of white beach. that visual is a reality for holidaymakers who find themselves at Azura Quilalea, a private island retreat located in the Quirimbas Archipelago in northern Mozambique. As part of a marine sanctuary, the waters surrounding the island are pristine and ready to be explored. snorkel the island’s shallows, relax on the main beach, kayak through the mangroves or nap in a hammock beneath giant baobabs on the island. there’s so much to take in. Airlink, the largest independent regional airline in southern Africa, will fly you to pemba International Airport in absolute comfort. A short transfer later, you’ll feel soft sand underfoot and the warm rays of the sun welcoming you to a tropical paradise.

AzuraRetreats @azuraretreats@Azuraretreats

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