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Avenue Verte France

Cross the Channel, and you’ll be truly delighted by the secondhalf of the London–Paris cycle route – a lovely amble on rurallanes and superb traffic-free cycle paths, right into the heart ofthe capital.

(Starting from London? Check out the first half of our guide.)

It pains us to admit it, but cycling in France is better than inBritain. The roads are quieter, the drivers more respectful, andin Paris, safe, physically segregated bike lanes are becomingthe norm. In Sussex, even the quiet lanes are menaced by Audiscornering too fast; in France, you can go for a whole hourwithout seeing a car. Even the railway paths are wider, and thegates at road crossings are less tortuous.

Paradise? Perhaps. But cycling in rural France has itseccentricities, too. Chief among these is the difficulty of findingsomething to eat. Yes, many villages have a boulangerie and abar; but the bar doesn’t serve food at lunchtime, and theboulangerie is closed from 11.30am to 4pm. Turn up at 2pmlooking for a late lunch, and you’ll go hungry. Better to buy yourlunch before leaving in the morning, and pack it in your panniers.

What sort of bike?If you’ve done the full route from London, bridleways and all,your steed must be pretty sturdy. In France, though, the surfacesare much better. There’s only one bumpy off-road section (atMaudétour) and a handful of gravel tracks. These are easy toavoid with a short road detour.

How many days?Dieppe to Paris typically takes four days, bringing the total tripfrom London to six or seven days. A fit, experienced cyclist coulddo the French section in as little as two.

Is it suitable for a first-timer?It’s ideal. The gradients are gentle, the traffic sparse, and thescenery inviting. Set a relaxed schedule and you’ll love theexperience.

How do I find my way?Our downloadable PDF route-book has a full map of the route.

The signage in France is generally excellent. The standard signis a compass symbol, either black-on-yellow or green-on-white,though the AV logo makes a reappearance in Paris. The route inParis is not so well-signed and you may need to follow yournose. For the final stretch, it coincides with the city’s pink-signedN/S route; look out for those where Avenue Verte signs aremissing.

Before the official French signs were erected, the route wassigned by little black stickers with a red pointing arrow. Theseare still in place, though in a few places route improvementshave superseded them. Regardless, they will help you navigatethrough Paris and the few other places where official signage ismissing.

What about the ferry?The Newhaven–Dieppe ferry is subsidised by the Frenchgovernment, operated by the ever-efficient Danish DFDS fleet,and generally a more pleasant experience than the crush ofDover–Calais. Advance booking is required.

Bikes are welcome on board, even though there’s no dedicatedstorage; you simply lock your bike to the wall of the car deck.Newhaven Port is a rather minimalist experience, just a carqueue with some fences, so don’t arrive too early in bad

weather; one hour is enough. There’s a Sainsburys nearby if youneed breakfast. Dieppe’s port is a short way out of town andbetter equipped, with a useful port building to top up your waterbottles.

The crossing takes four hours.

Should you follow the official route?The French route is direct and of consistently high quality; you’llrarely need to diverge from the official parcours. In the ruralVexin, however, the route designers were often tempted bygravel or (on one occasion) grass tracks, and experiencedcyclists with faster bikes may choose to keep to the road.

Should you take a support vehicle?Packing your holiday needs into a pair of panniers is the classiccycling holiday and is, of course, more sustainable. On the otherhand, a car-borne companion will make your return journeyeasier (no need to worry about booking your bike onto Frenchtrains), and faciliate quick dashes to the out-of-townhypermarket when all the boulangeries have closed.Alternatively, a cycling holiday company will sort all theseworries for you.

How do you get home again?The fastest way from Paris to London is by Eurostar. Taking abike by Eurostar is, however, a pain in the seat post. Check outour detailed guide for the full skinny.

If you have the time, you’ll get a better taste of French life on thetraditional Intercités trains. The unloved older brothers of theTGV, these still provide a very civilised ‘slow train’ experience.You can take a train to Rouen from Paris St Lazare, then changefor the TER (regional) train to Dieppe; or, if it’s easier, take thetrain direct from St Lazare to Le Havre for the ferry toPortsmouth. Bike space is at the end of each carriage andrequires neither booking nor dismantling your bike.

You can also take a Transilien commuter train from St Lazare toGisors; change for the reopened line to Serqueux, near Forges-les-Eaux (two morning trains, two evening trains); and fromthere, cycle back along the 32-mile railway path to Dieppe. Nobooking required!

The best-kept secret of Anglo-French bike transport is theEuropean Bike Express. This express coach has a dedicatedbike trailer and travels regularly from the south of France tovarious points within England, with a stop in the northernsuburbs of Paris.

Dieppe to Forges-les-Eaux

Welcome to France – and it’s everything you hoped it would be.

The 35-mile ride from Dieppe to little Forges-les-Eaux is superb,and a clear statement of intent for the future development of theAvenue Verte. After five miles of level on-road cycling, you dropdown onto a magnificent railway path the envy of any in Britain.This easy, but always scenic, route will take you all the way toForges.

First, though, comes the Dieppe ferryport, rather less sparsethan its English equivalent (and you can fill up your water bottlesin the terminal). The roundabout here is the first place you’ll seethe French Avenue Verte signs, a simple design in black onyellow or green on white. Beware: a sign pointing left at ajunction doesn’t necessarily mean “turn 90° left”, but often just“take the road next to this sign”.

Follow the coast road into Dieppe. The route crosses the firstbridge but turns left immediately before the second: that said, it‘sworth taking the detour across the blue bridge for a glimpse ofthis surprisingly attractive town.

Keep your eyes peeled as the route takes you past Dieppestation and onto the straight, traffic-calmed D road to Arques-la-Bataille. The traffic-free path begins here, all smooth tarmacand cycle-friendly, wide wooden gates. It’s a little windng at first,finding its way past lakes, but soon settles down onto the oldrailway following the valley of the Béthune.

All railway paths should be like this. It’s wide, in excellent order,clearly popular with the locals, and retains enough railwayfeatures for historical interest. The road crossings are welldesigned so you’ll rarely have to stop; the old crossing-keepers’cottages are enviable and always well-kept.

The path has an open aspect, not hemmed in by trees, so theviews are wide-ranging. There’s much to see beside the path,too, from the chateau at Mesnieres to the gourmet café in theold station at Nesle/St Saire. Signs encourage you to venfureoff-piste, to bars and restaurants in villages, and the larger townof Neufchâtel-en-Bray.

Serqueux is still a railway junction of some import, and the routetakes a brief séjour on roads and tracks to get past it. It returnsto the railway, though, for the final entrance to Forges, apleasant little town with a very traditional French market square.There’s plenty of accommodation here for your first night inFrance.

Forge-les-Eaux to Gisors

Were it not for the recession, this next section could have beenrailway path, too. France’s government, however, is determinedto spend its way back to prosperity, and is putting the disusedrailway from Forges to Gisors back into commission. That’s goodnews for local people, of course, but cyclists needn’t feel letdown: the local lanes are delightful and never too hilly.

This is the Pays de Bray, a quiet country of farmsteads and tinyvillages dominated by their churches. Chiming bells mark yourpassage from one gentle hill to the next. The only settlement ofany size is Gournay-sur-Bray, a typical French market townwith bars and a friendly pizzeria clustered around the square formidday refreshment.

The first 2km after Gournay’s resuscitated railway station are alittle busy and featureless. You may think you’ve taken a wrongturn, but a modest climb takes you into quieter country again.Little St Germer de Fly deserves half an hour; the stunningBenedictine abbey is being restored and, if open, is worth a visit.

The Avenue Verte splits here. A left turn will take you on thecircuitous longer route via Beauvais and Senlis; however, weturn right for the more direct route to Paris. Bear left at the nextfork; the signage was missing when we cycled the route in mid-summer 2013.

At Neuf-Marché, a little village on the main Paris–Dieppe road(but not, to the disquiet of villagers, with a station on the newline), there’s a handy boulangerie just off the route. Here too isthe steepest climb since Dieppe, setting you up for a long,enjoyable descent into the historic town of Gisors.

Gisors’ 11th century castle and cathedral-like church enjoy acommanding natural position overlooking a bend in the riverEpte. The town is less touristy than this might suggest, but youcan eat at the creperie at the top of the hill, and hotels areavailable. There’s also a friendly bike shop on the main street,welcoming Avenue Verte cyclists, and a railway station withTransilien commuter services to Paris (bikes carried withoutbooking).

Gisors to Conflans Ste Honorine

This passage across the rural Vexin is unforgettable. Rarely willyou have cycled anywhere so unspoilt, yet so undemanding onyour legs. Tiny lanes and car-free gravel tracks form a secretroute where few venture.

Beware, though. There are virtually no facilities in the 35 milesfrom Gisors to the urban New Town of Cergy, and the fewboulangeries keep very traditional opening hours includingmidweek closures. Stock up at Cergy to avoid being caught out.

The stage begins with a 12-mile railway path along the Eptevalley to Bray-et-Lu, a little narrower than the Dieppe–Forgestrail but still exemplary. Country lanes lead you from here up aslow, easy ascent to the heart of the Vexin. Maudétour is thehigh point, where the route eccentrically dives off onto a bumpygrass track; it’s cyclable (just), but assuming you can withstand200m of mildly busy D road, just stay on the road and turn rightat the end.

Equally eccentric is the name of Wy-dit-Joli-Village (“Wy, said tobe Pretty Village”), its subtitle bequeathed by Henri IV whilehunting nearby. (2km to the south is Enfer, or “hell”.) Graveltracks lead to Théméricourt, where you might be lucky enoughto find a restaurant; another track bypasses Vigny, but we seeno reason not to stay on the road through this attractive village.

A rare climb after Sagy, the hardest of the day, leads toCourdimanche – and suddenly, that’s it for the countryside.There’s no gradual transition, no creeping urbanisation. Rather,Cergy’s station square, futuristic in that ’70s way the French doso well, marks the abrupt start of Greater Paris. There’s an RERsuburban express, municipal bike hire, and a (very welcome)chain bakery. It’s 2km but a million miles from the Vexin.

Urban it may be, but the route from Cergy to the Seine is faithfulto the ‘green’ promise, largely following city bike paths throughwoodland. (Incidentally, ignore any signs claiming it’s only 30kmto Paris: they’re wholly mistaken.) After crossing the Oise atNeuville, double back on yourself and follow the waterside pathto the mouth of the river.

Conflans Ste Honorine to Paris

Conflans is exactly what it sounds like: the confluence of therivers Oise and Seine. The town is the capital of French bargelife, with a waterway museum and dozens of mooredhouseboats. Commercial barges ply the slow-flowing Seinenight and day, loaded with coal, tanker liquids and containers, allwith living accommodation on board and a little Citroen parkedon the back deck.

You can follow the riverside road through Conflans and Herblayif you like, but the official route takes a short-cut through theforest of St Germain. The forest tracks aren’t too rough but roadbike owners may choose to stay by the river.

Rejoining the river at Sartrouville, the route follows good qualitybike paths along the right bank, then crosses to chic Rueil-Malmaison where there are cafés around a new square. Thecomfortable track takes you to the decidedly less chic port area,where a footbridge over a backwater is so steeply ramped (topreserve navigable headroom) that lifts have been provided forbikes!

Soon the route heads inland on the busy Avenue de Stalingrad.In theory the passage through the port area of Gennevilliersfollows segregated cycle lanes. In practice, parked lorries oftenblock the route, and you may find it easier to stick to the road.Take care near the new tramway, where your wheels may fallfoul of the tracks or the subtle ramps up to platforms.

Like London, Paris has its urban canals, but the sheer size ofthe Canal St Denis is a world away from the little Regent’sCanal. The bumpy towpath gives a good insight into thismulticultural area. Extensive regeneration projects areunderway, so don’t be surprised to be diverted off the towpathnow and then.

The St Denis meets the Canal St Martin at a T-junction. Turningright here, past an area used for the annual ‘Paris Plages’ (ParisBeach) summer festival, speeds you along segregated lanesinto central Paris. Follow the N/S signs where the Avenue Verteones are missing. The final approach to the Seine is along theRue St Denis, a pedestrianised shopping street where cycling ispermitted but, frankly, impossible due to the sheer number ofwalkers. You may find it easier to brave the parallel roads, orsimply push.

Whichever way you come, you can’t miss Nôtre Dame, toweringabove the Île de la Cité. Make your way through the crowds totake a picture in front of the sign (at the north-west corner of thecathedral) reading ‘London 408km’. Many were easy, somehard-fought; most picturesque, a few less so. But theachievement is greater than the sum of each individualkilometre.

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CERGY

CONFLANSSAINTEHONORINE

HERBLAY

SAINTOUENL'AUMÔNE

MAISONSLAFFITTE

ACHÈRES

ÉRAGNY

JOUY LEMOUTIER

OSNY

VAURÉAL

CARRIÈRESSOUS POISSY

VERNEUILSUR SEINE

ANDRÉSYTRIEL SURSEINE

Chantelouples Vignes

Vernouillet

Pierrelaye

Courdimanche

Menucourt

Villennessur Seine

Vauxsur Seine

Maurecourt

Neuvillesur Oise

Médan

Chapet

Sagy

Évecquemont

Boisemont

Condécourt

Longuesse

PuiseuxPontoise

Les Rousselettes

Le Ponceau

L Isle

Ménandon

Les Blayes

Les Carrieres Les Chauffours

Les Hautsde Marcouville

Les Larris

Les Bocages

Les HautesCelettes

Les Gaucheres

Le Bruloir

L'Île deHam

Le Village

DerrieresLes Clos

Les EtessiauxLes Linandes

Les Louvrais

La Couture

Les Eguerrets

Le Clocherde Sanlisse

Les Mondetours

Les VoyesDieux

La BelleEpine

Le Fondde la Siaule

La Siaule

Le Fonddu Pave

La Cotedes ClosBilles

Les Genottes

Cergyle Haut

Le Hazay

Les Rougettes

La Bussie

La ValleeMonrois

La Sebille

Le Village

Le Bourg

LamethLa Muette

Le Village

Les Terresde Réal

Les ChampsDufour

Le CourtGoujon

Les VignesBlanches

Glatigny

Le TempsPerdu

Les Noyers

Les Merisiers

Vincourt

Le Colas

Les Dessousdu Parc

La Bonneville

Les DeuxOrmes

Vaux

Résidencedu PetitBois

Les Sablons

Les Cordeliers

Ham

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PA R I S

S A I N T D E N I S

NANTERRE

COURBEVOIE

COLOMBES

RUEILMALMAISON

AUBERVILLIERS

LEVALLOISPERRET

NEUILLYSUR SEINE

CLICHY

PANTIN

SARTROUVILLE

SAINTOUEN

SURESNES

PUTEAUX

GENNEVILLIERS

LA COURNEUVE

HOUILLES

CHATOU

BOIS COLOMBES

BEZONS

LA GARENNECOLOMBES

VILLENEUVELA GARENNE

LE PECQ

LE VÉSINET

CARRIÈRESSUR SEINE

MONTESSON

18e

20e

19e

16e

17e

11e

10e9e

7e

6e

8e

3e

4e

1er

Croissysur Seine

Bougival

Louveciennes

L'Île SaintDenis

Le Mesnille Roi

Le PortMarly

Villa desSuisses

La DéfenseZAC SainteGeneviève

Buzenval

ChampsÉlysées

Passy

La Borde

Les Rabaux

Les Hautsde Chatou

Le Centre

Les HallesQuartier

des Halles

Opéra

Saint Germaindes Prés

Invalides

Sentier

République

Le Marais

Clignancourt

Barbès

La Goutted'Or

La Chapelle

Monceau

Batignolles

Montmartre

Pigalle

Charonne

Belleville

Ménilmontant

Bastille

La Villette

Le Plateau

Le Closdes Orchidées

V32

V32

V32

V32

V32

V32

V32

V32

V32

V32

V32

V32

V32

V33

V33

V33

AV

AV

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L a S

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L a

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