assembly manual „manuela hr“...

Assembly manual „Manuela_HR“ Nixie-clock

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Congratulations for purchasing this stunning Nixie Clock „Manuela_HR“. For successful assembly of the clock please read the following helpful hints.

This kit is designed for someone who has advanced experience with assembling electronics - especially working with very fine "filigree" parts.

If you believe that the kit is too complicated for your skill level please do not try to assemble it - this generally ends up with a device that is not repairable and results in you being very frustrated. Please contact the provider and they can offer you other options that will end in a more fulfilling result!

Take your time - this kit should take 2-3 hours to complete if uninterrupted. Assembling the kit in a hurry will lead to frustration and the troubleshooting afterwards takes three times as long.

Ensure your work area is well lit (daylight preferred) and clean. Electronic tools, such as pliers, small side-cutters or tweezers should be handy. You

will also need a T8 (Torx) or SW2 Allen screwdriver for the housing assembly. A soldering iron with a 1 mm round tip (maximum) and a 0.8 mm (maximum) fine

electronic solder (lead-free) is required. For the intermediary function test you need a multimeter with at least 200 VDC range. A loupe to read the small device markings is often helpful. Assemble the board in the order as stated in the instructions - this has been proven

and will minimize mistakes. It is assumed that you understand that semiconductors (diodes, ICs, transistors) or

electrolytic capacitors are polarized components. Appropriate markings are silk-screened on the PCB and shown on the board schematic.

Together with this construction guide you get some additional helpful documents:

The schematic of the clock A very useful coloured landscape hard copy of the parts placement together with the layout

from top and bottom side and the part list. You should keep this handy during construction as a reference. All the positions of the resistors, capacitors and semiconductors are shown enhanced.

A printed operation manual for your Nixie clock. Please keep this manual handy. Safety precautions: During assembly, operation, measurements and maintenance extra precautions must be taken. The generated high voltage of 190V is dangerous. Assemble the circuit at your own risk. The functionality cannot be guaranteed when assembled by the customer. No responsibility can be taken for any personal claims and damages during assembly and commission, especially for damages based on insufficient technical knowledge. The clock may only be operated in a solid and moisture-proof enclosure. The person who completes the kit and assembles this board into an enclosure for operation is considered by the German directive VDE 0869 as a manufacturer and is required to indicate their name and address including all documents when selling the clock. Ready-to-go devices, which are assembled from kits, are counted safety-related as an industrial made product.

Okay, and now, Ladies and Gentlemen, start your soldering irons!


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1.: Assembly of the board connectors Please place the PCB solder side up and assemble the ten board connectors from bag 8 as shown in the picture.

Please have a close look at the picture and do not mismatch male and female connectors or the direction of the males’ nibbles. If incorrectly assembled, it is almost impossible, without special tools, to de-solder the connectors without damaging the board. For better visibility the male connectors are shown in blue and the female connectors in red. Important: The pcbs will be separated after the successful powering up of the clock, not before. Please now remove the four nibbles from the male connectors on the adaptor board (red arrows). You can easily remove them by bending. 2.: Assembly of the tube LEDs – only for “Desktop” enclosure version Assemble now the six tube LEDs from bag 3. Pay attention to their correct orientation (Anode = long leg, Cathode = short leg). Desktop enclosure As the LEDs are fitted directly on the pcb, solder as fast as possible from the parts side to positions LED1…6, so as not to damage the internal chips due to the high temperature. Office enclosure Please bend the LED’s leads as shown in the picture and solder them from the solder side to positions LED11…16.

3.: Installing the resistors Start installing all the resistors from bag 1. It’s best to start with the most common resistor (7.5 kohms) and than proceed with the lower quantity ones. Please note that some resistors are vertically mounted. The ring on the pcb’s assembly shows you the position of the resistors body (picture). 4.: Assembly of some semiconductors Next, from bag 2, insert all lower profile parts such as IC sockets (but do not fit the IC themselves), the MOSFET transistor T17 (Note the correct orientation; the print must not read upside down; also the Drain pin has two legs, which are tied together; this is shown also on the pcb), the polyfuse R17 and the voltage regulator IC3.


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5.: Installation of some capacitors Note: Please pay careful attention to the correct orientation of all electrolytic capacitors as shown on the pcb’s assembly print (ring is “-“). Install from bag 7 all low profile capacitors, these are the 220pF, 1n0 and 100nF ceramic capacitors, the both small 10µF 16V electrolytics and the 0.33F SuperCap capacitor. Take a look at the SuperCap’s correct orientation shown in the right-hand picture. Assemble now the LowESR C18 330µF 16V. This capacitor is violet coloured. Then install the same sized 2µ2 350V C21. Do not mismatch them with the remaining six “standard” 330µF capacitors and do not reverse their positions! The remaining six pcs. “standard” 330µF capacitors will be installed at a later stage. 6.: Assembly of mechanical parts From bag 9 identify and install some mechanical parts: 3 x push button switches, slide switch, buzzer, 470µH inductor, crystal and the DC-jack. Due to a pcb spacing error you must bend the upper pin of the jack a little bit to fit the jack into the pcb. First, solder this bended pin and then adjust the jack for exact upright positioning. The spacing between jack and pcb should be max. 1 mm. After adjusting, solder the two remaining pins. Remove the M8 nut and washer as they will not be needed. Attention; The DC jack must fitted at the Desktop version from the top side as usual but at the Office enclosure the DC jack must be fitted from the solder side as shown in the picture. 7.: The very first electrical test! Now we will start our first test. Please take a look around your desktop. The following parts should be left and not fitted at the moment: All multipole integrated circuits, the six “standard” 330µF 16V capacitors, all 13 MPSA-transistors from bags 5 and 6 and the tubes with their socket pins and the decimal point LEDs. For reference have a close look at the picture shown below.

Please turn the pcb around again and solder a short wire (e.g. from an off-cut resistor leg) from the slide-switch pins to the ceramic capacitor as shown in the right-hand picture. Now turn the pcb back over and set the LED slide-switch to the “on” position. Connect the power supply to the circuit and monitor the pcb: • Keep an eye out for parts that may run hot or “smell like something is burning”. • Touch carefully the polyfuse R17 (next to the DC jack); it should not be hot. • All six tube LEDs should light up and if RGB LEDs are fitted, they must start their colour changing sequences.

Now we can check some generated voltages with your multimeter. Place the black probe (GND) on the top of the 0.33F SuperCap as the reference point (shown left). With the red probe the generated voltage on some test points can be measured.


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Set your multimeter to voltage measurement and a range of around 20 VDC. Check the voltage on testpoint “5V” (right picture). It must be in the range of 5.1…5.5VDC. Now unplug the power supply and turn the pcb over. Remove the provisional wire from the slide switch and the capacitor pin. Now solder both solder jumpers labelled “5V” together just below the test points. Turn around the pcb again and fit all remaining transistors and the six 330µF capacitors C1…C6. When complete, take some time to carefully inspect your work for any solder bridges or component placement errors. Now plug in the MC34063A (IC4) voltage converter. Decoder IC2 and processor IC1 are not fitted at this time! Set the slide-switch „LED“ to „off“ and connect the DC power supply to the DC jack again. Caution: Now the step up converter should work and produces around 190 VDC. At this stage be very carefully during handling the circuity! Check again if the polyfuse R17 does not run hot. Now the LEDs do not light up anymore. This is not a fault – so don’t panic. Put your red probe on the measuring point shown on the right picture, it is the cathode leg of D16. Check the generated high voltage. It should be in the range of 180...190 VDC. Check now all voltages on every pin from both multipole integrated circuit sockets (the decoder IC1 and the processor IC2). The maximum allowed voltage is 5.5V. If this test is also finished successfully unplug the clock’s circuit from the power supply and fit now the both remaining integrated circuits IC1 and IC2. 8.: Fitting the tube sockets. First take a shallow bowl or a similar pot and put into it all sockets from the bag 10. First pick up the tube. Now slide on all tube pins the socket pins out of your pot. Tip: First press gently the socket pins on its upper end with your fingers for a good electrical contact with the tube pins. Put the tube aside on a safe place when fitted with all the pins. Note: With the IN12 tubes only 11 socket pins (and connections) are used. The pin to the left of the anode pin is not used on the IN12 types (this is the non-used decimal point). Please note also that the PCB has also no pad for this Pin (The anode pin has a white sleeve internally marked.) Have a look at the right picture. On the ZM tubes this 12th pin does not exist and therefore this position is left blank. Now fit both tubes on the PCB. Please pay attention of the direction of the tube. The marked anode pin on the IN-12 tubes must be orientated to the ring marked solder pad on the PCB. The tall end of all socket pins will easily slide to the pads’ drill holes on the PCB but for the thicker part of the socket you need a little sense. Depending on the tube sockets tolerances, one or two socket pins may need a bit of help by tweezers to fit correct in its drill hole. Please don’t force the tube together with its sockets into the PCB. You’ll need to have a little patience for this step. Before soldering adjust the tube correctly. During soldering use as less solder as possible. The socket pins are hollow. If you use too much solder, the excess solder might flow into the socket pin which will result in soldering the tube to the socket pin and the PCB. 9. Fitting of the decimal point LEDs After soldering the two tubes take the decimal point LED’s and the three spacers* out from its bag. Thread the LED’s through the spacer* and fit this “combination” into the PCB. Beware of LED orientation again. Do not solder these LED’s yet. Only bend the LED leads, also do not cut them at this stage. Attention: LED7 is not fitted in the Office enclosure version.


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* The spacers are only required if ZM tubes are used. For correct LED adjustment now pick up the front cover. Leave the protective film! Place the cover over the tubes and slide it down as to the LED case. Use tweezers to help the LEDs fitting into its cut-outs. Don’t buckle the cover too hard, it may break! Now solder the LEDs and cut the leads. Remove the cover. Now crack only the two adapter cards on the right from the board and fit them at the sockets of the solder side as shown at the picture.

10.: Final test Plug again the power supply to the clock. Caution: 190VDC is present on the board! Now your clock should start up working with 0:00.00 and counting seconds. The leading zero is suppressed due to the option settings and the firmware of the pic. So push the “Adjust” button to bring the six digit date to the display. Now the left-most tube should also light up. Monitor now for a while the display if all numerals will light up. Sometimes there is an incompletely soldered contact pin.


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11a. Assembling the Desktop enclosure Remove the power from the clock again. Remove also both adaptor cards and keep them. They will be very helpful when servicing the clock (but this might not be necessary of course). First we must mount the four black plastic spacers. Have a look at the photos below how to do that. Please fasten the spacers only by hand. Do not use any spanner or similar tool!

Now carefully break apart both PCB boards (the Display and Main board) and put the together face to face with their solder sides. Fix both pcbs with the supplied M3 x 4 screws.

In your kit you found a pre-assembled enclosure. However you should de-assemble this enclosure to remove the protective films from the Plexiglas frames. And here’s a design-tip: When removing both protective films from the Plexiglas you’ll get a fully transparent enclosure. But if you want a bluish glimmer of the enclosure so you should only remove the protective film from one side. On one side of the frame this protective film is always bluish. On the other side the film is either bluish or bluish with print or frosted white. It’s a little bit difficult to find the “right” side with the only bluish film, which not may be removed. So have a close look at both photos to find out the right side.

In the left picture, the pure blue film, which you might prefer to keep on the Plexiglas, is on the button side, and the film you will always remove is on the top side. In the right picture, the pure blue film, which you might prefer to keep, is on the top side, and the film you will always remove is on the button side.


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The rear cover is also protected with a film, but only on the outer side (the letters are engraved mirrored from the inner side, so there’s no protective film on this “engraving side”. Remove now the protective films from the rear and also from the front cover. Due to the different size of the ZM and IN tubes, you’ll need a different value of inner frames. For ZM tubes you’ll need seven pieces, for IN tubes eight frames. Because of the 6 mm more depth when using eight frames for IN tubes the spacers must mount in a different way: ZM tubes enclosure: Screw M3 x 8 rear cover spacer M3 x 17 spacer M3 x 25. IN tubes enclosure: Screw M3 x 8 rear cover distance-ring 3 mm spacer M3 x 17 distance-ring 3 mm spacer M3 x 25. Stack the bluish frames in that way onto the spacers, that the bluish protective film (when using the “design trick” is facing to the rear, so you are looking at the non protective transparent Plexiglas – see also the photo on the right. Now apply the tubes board to the enclosure. Please pay attention for the buttons and the DC jack on rear that they will fit into their drilling holes. Finally fix the board and also the front cover with the four supplied M3 flat hat screws and attach on button side the four self-adhesive rubber feet.

11.b Assembling the Office Gehäuse Please remove first from the golden rear cover both protective films and mount with four flat hat screws M3x8 the “spacers-combination” as shown in the right picture. Please only threaten the screws by hand. Pay extra attention for correct alignment of the DJ jack as shown in the picture on the right.

Spacers M3x12 core / extrenal thread and M3x12 2x core thread

Spacers M3x15 core / extrenal thread and M3x18 2x core thread

Drilling for DC-jack


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Now remove from all the three supplied mounting frames (1 x black and 2 x transparent) the protective films and put them over the spacers. Please not that the black frame must be the first to put over so it touches the back cover. Now pick up the assembled board. The distance between board and rear cover is made with four spacers M3x10. They must be mounted from the solder side of the board and fixed with four screws M3x6 which are threaded through the drill holes of the board.

It is recommended to remove the tubes when fastening the screws. Now remove the bolt nut and the washer from the DC jack. Fit now the board in the prepared enclosure frame. After a slight adjusting the DC jack must fit though its holes in the rear cover. Now fix the board with four M3x8 flat hat screws. Now screw again washer and bolt nut to the DC jack. Don’t use any tools for that, screw only by hand, as you might scratch the golden coating. Now refit the tubes. Remove now from the engraved front cover the protective film from the rear side and mount it on the spacers. Pay attention that all buttons will fit into their drill holes. Fit it with two M3x8 flat hat srews at the lower shorter spacers. At least remove the protective films from the transparent display frame and from the front cover and put them over the remaining upper longer spacers. Fit them with the remaining two M3x8 flat hat screws. After adding the four rubber feeds to the bottom of the clock and mounting the stand clamp on rear the assembling of your Office clock is finished.

Congratulations!


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Vendor

This clock kit was carefully engineered and assembled in Germany by

Jürgen Grau • Feiningerweg 28/1 • 72622 Nürtingen • Germany Fon: +49 / 7022 / 7896886 • Fax: +49 / 7022 / 90 44 03

E-Mail: [email protected]

Do you have any suggestions? Don’t hesitate and contact me.

Troubleshooting When you are reading this paragraph than you clock does not work as expected. If you need to de-solder some parts, never try to clean the pads with a solder sucker or similar and than trying to pull out the part. This will not work and will result in damaging the pads and / or the board. Always heat up all pins together from the removing part (with sufficient solder wire) and pull out the heated part. After removing you can clean the pads from solder with your solder sucker. Some faults just at the beginning of the testing procedure:

The LEDs does not light up and the polyfuse R17 runs hot. Certainly the MosFet transistor is fitted the wrong way round or is damaged due to ESD.

The LEDs does not light up and the R17 remains cold (no current consumption at all). Diodes D7…D10 or the LEDs fitted the wrong way round. Slide switch is set to “off”, preliminary wire at the switch position is not soldered correct to the GND pin of the capacitor.

The 5V voltage is too high, around 9V or some more. IC3 fitted the wrong way round or was mistaken with a transistor. D14 is fitted the wrong way round or missing.

Some faults when generating the high voltage

The voltage is much too low but more than 12V, R32 is running hot. Have you really removed the preliminary wire at the switch?

The voltage is much too low but more than 12V, inductor and MosFet are running hot. Is the value of R24 and C20 correct?

The generated voltage is in its range but R32 runs hot. Check if one of the transistors T1…T6 has a short circuit.

Too high voltage (more than 5.5V) on some pins of the pic or the decoder Check the connected transistor T1…T7 for a Base-Emitter short circuit. This is sometimes a problem with the MPSA42. They will start to “zener” only when connected to high voltage. During measuring with a simple “low voltage” ohmmeter they look free from defects. So if you suggest such a fault, just keep the clock running during measuring the voltage over the transistor’s pins but be carefully due to the surrounding high voltage. Faulty display

One tube lights up very bright, and all digits are also turned on together. Check the connected transistor T11…T16 for a short circuit.

One tube does not light up anymore. If swapping with a non-faulty tube does not help check for correct value of the resistors R11…R16. Check also for short circuits of the transistors connected to the tube’s Anode.

… To be continued …

Stückliste / Part List Manuela HR Nixie Clock

1. Uhrenbausatz / Clock kit

Nr. Inhalt Content

Beschreibung Description

Code Stück Pieces

100R R19,R20,R25 3 330R R23,R24,R30,R32 4 1k8 R27,R28,R29,R31 4 560k R11,R12,R13,R14,R15,R16,R22,R26 8 7k5 R1,R2,R3,R4,R5,R6,R7,R8,R9,R10,R18,R21 12

1 Widerstände Resistors

Polyfuse R17 1 1N5819 D7,D8,D9,D10 4 BAT42 D11,D12,D13,D14,D15,D17,D18 7 UF4004 D16 1 78L05 IC3 1 K155ID1 IC2 1 PIC16F628 IC1 1 MC34063A IC4 1 IRFD220 T17 1 IC Sockel / Socket 8-pol. 1 IC Sockel / Socket 16-pol. 1

2 Halbleiter Semicond.

IC Sockel / Socket 18-pol. 1

3 LEDs für Röhrenbeleuchtung LEDs for tubes lighting

LED1,LED2,LED3,LED4,LED5,LED6 oder/or LED11,LED12,LED13,LED14,LED15,LED16 6

LED für Punkte / for Points LED7,LED8,LED9 3 4 LED-Distanzen / LED Spacers nur ZM-Ausführung / only ZM version 3

5 MPSA 42 NPN HV Transistor T1,T2,T3,T4,T5,T6,T7 7+1 6 MPSA 92 PNP HV Transistor T11,T12,T13 ,T14,T15,T16 6+1

27pF “27“ C11,C12 2 1nF „K1K“ C20 1 100nF „104“ C7,C8,C13,C14,C15,C17,C22 7 2µF 350V C21 1 330µF low ESR C18 1 10µF 16V C9,C10 2 330µF 16V C1,C2,C3,C4,C5,C6 (extra Tüte / bag) 6

7 Kodensatoren Capacitors

0.33F Supercap C16 1 MM FL10G Buchsenleiste / female BU1,BU2,BU4,BU5 4 8 Verbinder

Connectors MM SL10G Stiftleiste / male ST1,ST2,St3,ST4,ST5,ST6 6 Schiebeschalter / Slide switch S4 1 Drucktaster / Button switch 17mm S1,S2,S3 3 Summer / Buzzer 42ohm passiv SND1 1 DC-Buchse / DC jack HEBL21 BU3 1 Spule / Inductor 470µH L1 1

9 Divers

Quarz / Crystal 4.000MHz Q1 1 10 Röhrensockelstifte / Tube socket Pins > 66 11 Leiterplatte / PCB 1 12 Anleitung / Manual 1 13 Schaltnetzteil / Switching Power Supply 1

2. Desktop Gehäuse / Enclosure

St./pcs. ZM Röhren / Tubes St./pcs. IN Röhren / Tubes 1 Frontseite / Frontcover IN 1 Frontseite / Frontcover IN 7 Zwischenteile / Inner 8 Innenteile / Inner 1 Rückseite / Backcover 1 Rückseite / Backcover 6 Schrauben / Screws M3 x 8 6 Schrauben / Screws M3 x 8 2 Distanzen / Spacers M3 x 17 2 Distanzen / Spacers M3 x 17 2 Distanzen / Spacers M3 x 25 2 Distanzen / Spacers M3 x 25 2 Distanzen / Spacers M3 x 6 2 Distanzen / Spaces M3 x 6 2 Distanzen / Spacers M3 x 12 2 Distanzen / Spacers M3 x 12 4 Distanzen / Spacers M3 x 3 2 Schrauben / M3 x 4 2 Schrauben / M3 x 4 4 Gerätefüße / Rubber feeds 4 Gerätefüße / Rubber feeds 1 Pa. Bauwollhandschuhe / gloves 1 Pa. Bauwollhandschuhe / gloves

5

5

4

4

3

3

2

2

1

1

D D

C C

B B

A A

K9K8K7K6K5K4K3K2K1

K0

K9K8K7K6K5K4K3K2K1

K0

K9K8K7K6K5K4K3K2K1

K0

K9K8K7K6K5K4K3K2K1

K0

K9K8K7K6K5K4K3K2K1

K0

K9K8K7K6K5K4K3K2K1

K0

K0

K1

K2

K4

K6

K3

K5

K7

K8

K9

5V3

185V

5V0

5V0

5V3 5V0

185V

Title

Size Document Number Rev

Date: Sheet of

Schematic 1-11

IN-12 / ZM 1100 / ZM 1080 Nixie clock Manuela HR

1 1Sunday, February 13, 2011

Title


Date: Sheet of

Schematic 1-11



Title


Date: Sheet of

Schematic 1-11



LED on/off

5V

Low ESR

ALARM

Fit LED1...6 when used as desktop clockFit LED11...16 when used as a wall clock

350V

BU2-6BU2-6

C14100nKC14100nK

C1010uC1010u

R16560kR16560k ST2-6ST2-6

5V5V

ST2-8ST2-8

T6MPSA42T6MPSA42

H5H5

A1

0 29 38 47 56 65 74 83 92 101 11

DP 12

BU2-8BU2-8

C8100nK

C8100nK

D91N5819

D91N5819

S2SET

S2SET

H3H3

A1

0 29 38 47 56 65 74 83 92 101 11

DP 12

R107k5R107k5

BU2-10BU2-10

D81N5819D81N5819

T16MPSA92T16MPSA92

T1MPSA42T1MPSA42

R87k5R87k5

R6 7k5R6 7k5

BU1-6BU1-6

R27 1k8R27 1k8

ST1-10ST1-10

R32330RR32330R

H2H2

A1

0 29 38 47 56 65 74 83 92 101 11

DP 12

R22560kR22560k

C1330µC1330µ

ST2-9ST2-9

ST3-1ST3-1

R28 1k8R28 1k8

R13560kR13560k

BU2-5BU2-5

C201nKC201nK

T3MPSA42T3MPSA42

ST3-10ST3-10

ST1-6ST1-6

BU1-5BU1-5

T13MPSA92T13MPSA92

LED3LED3

Q14MHzQ14MHz

R97k5R97k5

C4330µC4330µ

C910uC910u

ST4-10ST4-10

ST2-4ST2-4

IC4MC34063AIC4MC34063A

SC1SE2TC3GND4

DC 8IS 7

VCC 6CI 5

AC2AC2

LED5LED5

T2MPSA42T2MPSA42

R1 7k5R1 7k5

D71N5819D71N5819

ST4-8ST4-8

BU2-1BU2-1

C16

0.33F

C16

0.33F

C18330uC18330u

R77k5R77k5

D13BAT42

D13BAT42

ST1-8ST1-8

BU1-1BU1-1

R30330RR30330R

IC1Nixieclock2011IC1Nixieclock2011

BCD-C 1BCD-D 2

BCD-A 17BCD-B 18

NEONS 3

HRSx10 11HRSx1 10

MINSx10 9MINSx1+ADV 8

SECSx10+SET 7SECSx1+MODE 6SOUND13

MCLR4

KEY-INPUT12

XTAL115

XTAL216

VDD14

GND5

D17BAT42D17BAT42

BU2-2BU2-2

BU2-9BU2-9

C12 27pC12 27p

ST2-3ST2-3

ST3-4ST3-4

ST1-9ST1-9

LED9LED9

D101N5819D101N5819

BU2-4BU2-4

LED11LED11

BU1-2BU1-2

ST4-9ST4-9

R5 7k5R5 7k5

R23 330RR23 330R

T7MPSA42T7MPSA42

R14560kR14560k

ST2-2ST2-2C2330µC2330µ

R3 7k5R3 7k5

ST1-4ST1-4

ST3-8ST3-8

ST4-7ST4-7

ST3-9ST3-9

T4MPSA42T4MPSA42

AC1AC1

R25 100RR25 100R

LED12LED12

H4H4

A1

0 29 38 47 56 65 74 83 92 101 11

DP 12

T14MPSA92T14MPSA92

IC3 78L05IC3 78L05

INGND

OUT

L1470uHL1470uH

S3MODE

S3MODE

ST3-2ST3-2

C5330µC5330µ

R11560kR11560k

BU1-8BU1-8

H6H6A1

0 29 38 47 56 65 74 83 92 101 11

DP 12

ST3-7ST3-7

ST1-1ST1-1

H1H1

A1

0 29 38 47 56 65 74 83 92 101 11

DP 12

ST2-1ST2-1

R26560kR26560k

LED1LED1

R217k5R217k5

BU1-9BU1-9

ST4-4ST4-4

LED16LED16

D16UF4004

D16UF4004

LED4LED4

R29 1k8R29 1k8

ST2-7ST2-7

ST4-2ST4-2

C22100nKC22100nK

ST2-5ST2-5

R19100R

R19100R

C17100nKC17100nK

ST1-7ST1-7

T17IRFD220T17IRFD220

T11MPSA92T11MPSA92

ST4-1ST4-1

BU2-7BU2-7

ST3-5ST3-5

R187k5R187k5

ST3-3ST3-3

C15100nKC15100nK

LED8LED8

BU1-10BU1-10

R12560kR12560k

ST4-3ST4-3

C6330µC6330µ

ST3-6ST3-6

T5MPSA42T5MPSA42

D12BAT42

D12BAT42

ST2-10ST2-10

C11 27pC11 27p

BU2-3BU2-3

ST1-3ST1-3

ST4-5ST4-5

D14BAT42D14BAT42

T12MPSA92T12MPSA92

R15560kR15560k

SN

D1

SN

D1

T15MPSA92T15MPSA92

D11BAT42

D11BAT42

S1ADJ

S1ADJ

LED13LED13

ST4-6ST4-6

LED2LED2

D18BAT42D18BAT42

R20100RR20100R

BU1-3BU1-3

BU1-7BU1-7

LED14LED14

R24330RR24330R

C13100nKC13100nK

C3330µC3330µ

ST1-5ST1-5

LED7LED7

BU3BU3

D15

BAT42

D15

BAT42

C7100nK

C7100nK

R311k8R311k8

S4S4

R4 7k5R4 7k5

R2 7k5R2 7k5

C212u2C212u2

IC2

K15

5ID

1IC

2K

155I

D1A3

B6C7D4

VC

C5

GN

D12

0 161 152 83 94 135 146 117 108 19 2

LED15LED15

R170.5AR170.5A

BU1-4BU1-4

ST1-2ST1-2

LED6LED6

assembly manual „manuela hr“...

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