WHAT IS QUALITY?

What would someone mean by the quality of a

shoe?

Let us suppose that it is a man’s shoe that he is asking about.

Does he mean by good quality that it wears a long time?

Or that it takes a shine well?

That is feels comfortable?

That it is waterproof?

That the price is right in consideration of whatever he considers

quality? Or it is good in design?

Put another way, what quality-characteristics are important to

the customer? - Deming

WHAT IS QUALITY?

• Product quality is based on a product attribute. How will you differentiate the quality between woven shirt and sweater?

• User-based quality is fitness for use, How will you differentiate the quality between women garments and kids garments as a wearer?

• manufacturing based quality is conformance to requirements, Which quality parameters will be followed when manufacturing thermal wear and sweat jacket?

• value based quality is the degree of excellence at an acceptable price

Zara jacket or mango jackets are products gives value for money

QUALITY types?

Assurance: The act of giving confidence, the state of being certain or the act of making certain.

Quality Assurance: The planned and systematic activities implemented in a quality system so that quality requirements for a product or service will be fulfilled.

Control: An evaluation to indicate needed corrective responses; the act of guiding a process in which variability is attributable to a constant system of chance causes.

Quality Control: The observation techniques and activities used to fulfill requirements for quality.

•

•

DEFINITIONS OF QUALITY

• Conformance to specifications

• The degree to which a product or

service meets the needs of the

customer

• Uniformity around a customer-

defined target

• Exceeding customer expectations

The customer is the most important part of the process.

FEW RETURNS

IMPACT OF HIGHER QUALITY ON VALUE

HIGHER

QUALITY

LESS WAIST

LESS REWORK

FEW

REJECTION

LESS BACKLOG

FEW

COMPLAINTS

LOWER COST

HIGH

PRODUCTIVITY

HIGHER

VALUE

MARKETING &

MARKET RESEARCH

REQUIREMENTS &

SPECIFICATION

DESIGN&

DEVELOPMENT

PROCUREMENT

PROCESS PLANNING &

DEVELOPMENT

PRODUCTION

INSPECTION, TESTING &

EXAMINATION

PACKAGING &

STORAGE

SALES&

DISTRIBUTION

INSTALLATION

&

OPERATION

TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE &

MAINTENANCE

DISPOSAL

QUALITY MUST BE CONSIDER AT ALL STAGES IN THE LIFE CYCLE, AS SHOWN BELOW, OF A PRODUCT.

Quality inspection in apparel industries

“Visual examination or review of raw materials, partially finished components of garments and completely finished garments in relation to some standards, specifications, or requirements, as well as measuring garments to check if they meet the required measurements.”

QUALITY INSPECTION IN APPAREL INDUSTRIES

• Do to control quality of garments.

• Checking of fabric,

• Sewing thread,

• Button,

• Stitching,

• Zipper and other trims,

• Garments measurements/size etc

according to required standard or specification is

known as inspection.

Quality inspection is important for every section of

apparel industries.

STEPS IN APPAREL INDUSTRIES TO CONTROL QUALITY

RAW MATERIAL INSPECTION

IN PROCESS INSPECTION

FINAL INSPECTION

RAW MATERIALS INSPECTION

It is done for the raw materials which are used in the

apparel production like fabric, sewing thread, button,

other accessories etc.

It is also termed as ‘incoming material inspection.

Normally this is mainly done for fabrics using 4 point

system or 10 point system.

ONLINE OR IN-PROCESS INSPECTION

This is done during the manufacturing process so that if there is

any problem in the process that will be rectified in that stage

itself.

This will be carried out by the quality controllers periodically

say every two or three hours.

They will check the measurement and defects and make the

inspection report which will be intimated to the production in-

charge.

FINAL INSPECTION

This inspection is done after the goods are manufactured and

packed in carton boxes and which are ready for the shipment.

The goods are inspected and will be graded as per

acceptable quality level (AQL) which is prescribed by the

buyer.

The goods can be shipped after the final inspection is passed.

QUALITY INSPECTION IN APPAREL INDUSTRIES

IN SAMPLE MAKING SECTION

IN-MARKER MAKING SECTION

INSPECTION IN FABRIC SPREADING SECTION

INSPECTION IN FABRIC CUTTING SECTION

INSPECTION IN FABRIC SEWN SECTION

INSPECTION IN PRESSING & FINISHING SECTION

QUALITY INSPECTION IN SAMPLING

MAINTAINING BUYER SPECIFICATION STANDARD

CHECKING THE SAMPLE AND ITS DIFFERENT ISSUES

MEASUREMENTS CHECKING

FABRIC COLOR, GSM, FASTNESS ETC PROPERTIES REQUIRED

CHECKING

SPI AND OTHER PARAMETER CHECKING

ANY OTHER DETAILING CHECKING

QUALITY CONTROL IN MARKER MAKING

TO CHECK NOTCH OR DRILL MARK

FABRIC WIDTH MUST BE HIGHER THAN MARKER WIDTH

FABRIC LENGTH MUST BE HIGHER THAN MARKER LENGTH

MATCHING OF GREEN LINE

CHECK PATTERN SIZE AND DIMENSION

MATCHING OF CHECK AND STRIPE TAKING INTO CONSIDERATION

CONSIDERING GARMENTS PRODUCTION PLAN

PATTERN DIRECTION CONSIDERATION

FABRIC SPREADING ACCORDING TO CORRECT

ALIGNMENT WITH MARKER LENGTH AND WIDTH

MAINTAIN REQUIREMENTS OF SPREADING

LAY CONTAINS CORRECT NUMBER OF FABRIC PLY

CORRECT PLY DIRECTION

TO CONTROL THE FABRIC SPLICING

TENSION CONTROL

QUALITY CONTROL IN FABRIC SPREADING

The dimension of the pattern and the cut piece should be same and accurate

CUT EDGE SHOULD BE SMOOTH AND CLEAN

NOTCH SHOULD BE CUT FINELY

DRILL HOLE SHOULD MADE AT PROPER PLACE

NO YARN FRAYING SHOULD OCCUR AT CUT EDGE

AVOID BLADE DEFLECTION

MAINTAIN CUTTING ANGLE

QUALITY CONTROL IN FABRIC CUTTING

MORE SKILLED OPERATOR USING

INPUT MATERIAL CHECKING

SPECIAL WORK LIKE EMBROIDERY, PRINTING PANEL CHECK

GARMENTS MEASUREMENT CHECK

SIZE MISTAKE CHECK

SHADE VARIATION WITHIN THE CLOTH

CREASED OR WRINKLE APPEARANCE CONTROL

QUALITY CONTROL IN SEWING SECTION

CUT PANEL AND ACCESSORIES CHECKING

MACHINE IS IN WELL CONDITION THREAD COUNT CHECK

NEEDLE SIZE CHECKING STITCHING FAULT SHOULD BE CHECKED

SEAM FAULT CHECK

MISMATCHING MATCHING OF TRIMMING

WRONG PLACEMENT OF INTERLINING

Proper inspection of the garments including measurement, spot, dirt,

impurities Water spot

IN SECURED OR BROKEN CHAIN OR BUTTON

PROPERLY DRIED IN AFTER PRESSING

GET UP CHECKING

QUALITY CONTROL IN FINISHING SECTION

SHADING VARIATION CHECK SMOOTH AND UNFOLD IN POCKET

PROPER SHAPE IN GARMENTS WANTED WRINKLE OR FOLD IN LINING

COLLAR CLOSING

SIDE SEAM

EVERY PARTS OF A BODY

WRONG FOLD

SLEEVE PLACKET ATTACH

CUFF ATTACH

BOTTOM HEM

BACK YOKE

• Done through Fabric Inspection machine.

• Very important for every industries .

• In fabric inspection their checks several things i.e. in fabric are there any defect available or not. In fabric, fabric defects viz. off shade or shade variation, hole in fabric, barre effect etc. can be visual after entering into the store room. For those defects it will be problem able for making garments making.

• In fabric inspection, also test fabric strength, color, quantity

• To check fabric there are different system i.e. 4 point system, 10 point system etc.

FABRIC INSPECTION

FABRIC INSPECTION

FABRIC INSPECTION

FABRIC INSPECTION

During stitching fabric frequently brakeage of sewing thread is one of

the great problems for garments manufacturing.

So that it is necessary to check

• THREAD CONSTRUCTION,

• SEWABILITY,

• COLOR,

• IMPERFECTION,

• FINISH, PACKAGE

• THREAD NUMBER,

• THREAD PLY,

• THREAD TENACITY,

• THREAD ELONGATION,

• WINDING,

• YARDAGE OF SEWING THREAD.

SEWING THREAD INSPECTION

The final quality of any garment is also affected by trims and accessories

applied in it.

So that it is necessary to check

• BUTTON,

• ZIPPERS

• INTERLINING,

• LABEL &

• TAGS

also need to check so that quality can be maintain according to required

quality.

FOR BUTTON,

• BUTTON STRENGTH,

• BUTTON COLOR,

• QUANTITY ETC ARE CHECKED.

TRIMS AND ACCESSORIES INSPECTION

• Inspecting different parts of garments before sewing are called in

process inspection.

• It starts from marker making, than fabric spreading, fabric cutting,

fabric sewing, pressing or finishing checking is done in process.

• MARKER MAKING

• FABRIC SPREADING

• FABRIC CUTTING

• SORTING/ BUNDLING

• FABRIC SEWING

• SEAM DEFECTS

• ASSEMBLY DEFECTS

• PRESSING/ FINISHING DEFECTS

IN PROCESS INSPECTION

2. Distorted Grading:

• Unbalanced patterns which would cause twisted seams,

• puckering,

• pleating and

• a general uneconomical yardage waste.

PATTERN GRADING DEFECTS

1. Grade Not Conforming to Specification measurements

• Finished product not measuring to specified dimension

• component parts not fitting in relationship to notches,

• openings and seams such as armholes sleeve heads neck

bands,

• neck openings and side seams inseams,

• waist measurements and etc.

MARKER

MARKER INSPECTION

• It is necessary to check all the parts of garments pattern are in marker.

• In marker labelling or coding of pattern should be checked

• Pattern direction should be checked.

• Pattern grain line is very important thing which must be considered

during marker making.

• During marker making every pattern pieces dimension should be

accurate.

• During marker making fabric length and width should be considered.

MARKER INSPECTION

•Notches & drill marks

•Knife clearance

•Checks and stripes (mittering)

•Marker width

MARKING DEFECTS

Shaded Parts:-All component pans not included in same section.

Pieces not Symmetrical:-Will not sew together without puckering or

pleating.

Not Marked by Directional Lines:-Bias will not lit together, causing

twisting, puckering. pleating and a general mismatching of component

parts.

Skimpy marking:-Marker did not use outside perimeter of pattern.

Notches and Punch Marks:-Left out., not clearly marked or misplaced.

Marker Too Wide:-Parts will not catch in lay, causing skimpy garments or

requiring results.

MARKER DEFECTS

Pattern moved after partially marked to fit into space.

Marker Too Narrow:-Results In wasted material

Mismatched Plaids-Marker did not block component parts to match.

Misdirected Napping:-Patterns not marked in same direction and napped

fabrics.

SPREADING

Factors which must be checked

• Fabric Nature

• Ply alignment

• Ply tension/slackness

• Bowing

• Splicing

• Grain-line

• Shade variation

• Selvedge alignment & tightness

• Fabric width

• Checks

• Static electricity

SPREADING INSPECTION

1. Uneven Spreading:-Front edge of lay is not even, resulting in front or

back edge of marker not catching all ply.

2. Narrow Material:-Bolts or rolls of material too narrow to cover

marker width.

3. Missed Sectional Breaks:-Sectional marker breaks too long or too

short. Parts in lay will be short or material wasted.

4. Improper Tension:-Cloth spread too tight or too loose, causing parts

not to fit in sewing or distorting dimensions of garments.

5. Mismatching Plaids:-Material spread too loose or too tight causing

plaid lines to run diagonally or bow.

6. Misdirected Napping:-Air pockets not removed. Napped material

reversed in spreading.

7. Improper Matching of Face of Material:-Not spread face down, face

up or face to face as required.

SPREADING DEFECTS

FRAYED EDGE

FUZZY, RAGGED OR SERRATED EDGES

Marker Making

↓

Fabric Spreading

↓

Placing Marker Paper on to the Lay

↓

Fabric Cutting

↓

Numbering

↓

100% checking & Parts Replacing if needed.

↓

Shorting & Bundling

↓

Sewing/Assembling

CUTTING INSPECTION

•Ply to ply fusion

•Single edge fusion

•Pattern precision

•Notches & drillers

•Cutting Equipment precision

CUTTING INSPECTION

1. Misplaced Piece Rate Tickets or Bundle Members:-Attached to, or marked on, wrong

bundles, causing mixed sizes or land shades.

2. Drill Marks:-Drill marks misplaced, not perpendicular, omitted or wrong side drill

used.

3. Opening Slits:-Cut under above to the side or at incorrect angle. Not cut through

entire bundle or omitted.

4. Improper Cutting:-Not following marker lines, resulting in distorted parts. Letting

knife lean causing top and bottom ply to be of different sizes.

5. Notches:-Misplaced, too deep, too shallow or omitted.

6. Oil Spots:-Equipment improperly oiled or cleaned.

7. Improper Knife Sharpening:-Causing ragged, frayed or fused edges on bundles.

CUTTING DEFECTS

It is necessary to check numbering, sorting, and

bundling is done accurately.

SORTING/ BUNDLING

DEFECTS

1. Not Stacked in Numerical Order: Bundle numbers

not in order on rack skid or box.

2. Matching Linings: Wrong size or wrong material.

• Stitching Defects

• Needle damage

• Skipped stitch

• Thread breaks

• Seam pucker

• Wrong stitch density

• Uneven stitch

• Staggered stitch

• Improperly formed stitch

SEWING INSPECTION

Skip stitches

•Improper threading.

•Poor clamping or insufficient

pressure (flagging).

•The needle needs replacing.

•Wrong size needle.

•Wrong type of needle for the

material.

•Lubrication.

•Wrong thread for the

application.

•Poor quality thread.

•Needle size and thread weight

are mismatched.

•Worn thread guides, paths or

eyelets