an enthusiast ’s guide to better drinking enthusiast ’s guide to better drinking from the editor...

41
30 WINES UNDER £30 AN ENTHUSIAST’S GUIDE TO BETTER DRINKING AND FIVE OVER £50

Upload: lamkhuong

Post on 25-Apr-2018

216 views

Category:

Documents


1 download

TRANSCRIPT

3 0 W IN E S U N D E R £ 3 0

A N E N T H U S I A S T ’ S G U I D E T O B E T T E R D R I N K I N G

A N D F I V E O V E R

£ 5 0

2

30 W IN E S UNDE R £ 30

A N E N T H U S I A S T ’ S G U I D E T O B E T T E R D R I N K I N G

F R O M T H E E D I T O R 3

T H E R E D S 4

T H E W H I T E S 1 9

A N D F I V E O V E R £ 5 0 3 5

M E E T T H E E X P E R T S 4 0

3

I’m supposed to know about wine. In 2012, we all are. We’re supposed to

know how to pair it with food. We’re supposed to be able to pick out berries

and herbs as we breathe in its aromas. But, standing in a supermarket staring

at the familiar brands and tempting half-prices deals, how many of us can

claim to truly know what we’re doing? Red for meat, white for fish – after that

I’m a bit lost. And I’m not entirely sure that’s the rule any more.

Luckily, there are people out there who do know what they’re doing. And,

what’s more, they’ve agreed to impart their knowledge to make our lives

easier (and full-bodied, with fewer tannins).

What follows are 30 of the best affordable wines available now. And five that

are a touch more expensive. Well, four that are a touch more expensive, and

one that’s puff-your-cheeks-out pricey. But within these pages we hope you’ll

find a bottle that’s perfect for your needs. Sláinte*.

*It’s Gaelic for “health”, but is used as a toast. A bit like “cheers”. I should probably have just written that.

FROM THEEDITOR

Jonathan Pile, Editor

4

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

Q U I N T A D A B A C A L H O A , 2 0 0 8 Península de SetúbalFor reds Spain may be the new Portugal, which was the new Austria (a great line for dinner parties), but this wine demonstrates how Portugal is still making some of the best value fine wines in Europe. Spicy, sinewy, reminiscent of old school claret with more hitting power. A real eye-opener.

Drink with: Bowl of chilli

Get it: Majestic; £13.49

R E D

5

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

C H A T E A U C I V R A C , 2 0 0 6Côtes de Bourg, BordeauxReclaiming a piece of Bordeaux for the English, or the Cornish at least, Mark Helyar’s terrific claret is a textbook example of modern Bordeaux with traditional values. From the increasingly fashionable Côtes de Bourg, this merlot-rich blend offers purity and vitality in equal measure. Old-world elan with new-world exuberance.

Drink with: Grilled meats

Get it: Roberson; £16.95

R E D

6

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

L E R E S E R V E D E L E O V I L L E B A R T O N , 2 0 0 9Château Lêoville Barton, St Julien, Bordeaux Proper old school claret with a healthy intensity of ripe blackcurrant. The second wine of a top-rated château from a fine vintage. Impressive but not imposing, yet treat with the dignity it deserves and serve to the appreciative. Be sure to decant a good hour before serving.

Drink with: Roast rib of veal

Get it: Jeroboams; £29.95

R E D

7

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

S A N T E N A Y P R A R O N S D E S S U S , 2 0 1 0Domaine Pillot, Côte de Beaune, BurgundyHonest, affordable Burgundy with a touch of class is rarer than hens’ dentists, so this is a good find. A single vineyard wine from underrated Santenay, with pinot’s classic, crunchy red and forest fruits, lively acidity and grip. Serve in your biggest glasses – brandy goblets will do – to ensure the soft perfume blossoms.

Drink with: Poulet de Bresse (or any decent roast chicken)

Get it: Lea & Sandeman; £17.95

R E D

8

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

C O R N A S G R A N I T 3 0 , 2 0 1 0Domaine Vincent Paris, Northern RhôneSyrah from the northern Rhône is the new Burgundy – elegant and fresh but sinewy and compact. From granitic soils (hence the name) you can breathe in the mineral-packed dark earth aromas, alongside flowers, five-spice, a twist of white pepper and morass of seething black cherry.

Drink with: Herb-crusted lamb chops

Get it: Berry Bros & Rudd; £27.95

R E D

9

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

L E V I G N E H A U T E , 2 0 1 0Mas Coutelou, Languedoc-RoussillonOne hundred per cent syrah from the south of France combining the elegance of the northern Rhône with the opulence of Australia’s Barossa Valley. A natural wine, so minimal intervention in the winemaking process ensures the exotic energy and sensuous vitality of Emmanuelle Béart dancing naked (again) through your dreams.

Drink with: Strong, hard cheeses

Get it: Roberson; £17.95

R E D

1 0

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

U L T R E I A S T J A C Q U E S M E N C I A , 2 0 1 0Raul Perez, Bierzo, SpainA boutique, biodynamic wine made in tiny quantities from 120-year old vines by one of Spain’s superstar young winemakers for a bargain price. This ticks so many boxes on paper, and the palate does not disappoint either: wild herbs, cocoa nibs and kirsch, guaranteed to stop conversation… and then start again with greater vigour.

Drink with: Pork belly

Get it: Bottle Apostle; £15.50

R E D

1 1

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

V I N A A R D A N Z A R E S E R V A E S P E C I A L , 2 0 0 1La Rioja Alta, RiojaFrom one of the region’s best producers and an outstanding vintage, this is a great example of why Rioja is so underrated as a premium wine. All the classic characters – bitter cherry, vanilla, woodsmoke – are all present but with many more layers and nuances.

Drink with: Roast suckling piglet

Get it: Vagabond Wines; £26.95

R E D

1 2

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

B A R O L O C A S T A G N I , 2 0 0 7Reverdito, La Morra, PiemonteItaly’s greatest red is the essence of autumn: Barolo, made from the nebbiolo grape which gets its name from “nebbia”, the seasonal mists which shroud the valleys around Alba. It’s difficult to understand but La Morra’s vineyards make the most accessible styles and this charming wine is no exception.

Drink with: Slow-braised beef

Get it: Bottle Apostle; £27.50

R E D

1 3

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

R O S S O D I M O N T E P U L C I A N O , 2 0 1 0Poliziano, Montepulciano, TuscanyThe year 2010 was the greatest for the sangiovese grape in two decades, and Poliziano’s rosso shows every bit of that quality. The wines of Montepulciano often get overlooked in favour of their better known cousins from Chianti and Montalcino – but the best producers can fashion wines every bit as compelling.

Drink with: Venison and juniper berries

Get it: Majestic; £14.99

R E D

1 4

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

S P A T B U R G U N D E R T R A D I T I O N , 2 0 1 0Fürst, FrankenGerman pinot noir is cool, currently and literally. Sceptics may raise an eyebrow but Fürst’s Spätburgunder will win everyone over. Softer and more supple than most Burgundies at the price and fresher and more charming than antipodean pinots, more reminiscent of the excellent wines coming from the northwestern US states of Oregon and Washington.

Drink with: Charcuterie

Get it: Planet Of The Grapes; £23.50

R E D

1 5

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

A R C H A N G E L P I N O T N O I R , 2 0 0 9Central OtagoRapidly overtaking Martinborough to the north as the producer of New Zealand’s most exciting pinot, Central Otago boasts a number of iconic wineries and Archangel is pushing for inclusion. Pretty but substantial, attractive but with depth, this wine flirts with ambiguities but pulls them in to an irresistible package.

Drink with: Seared tuna steaks

Get it: The Vintner; £19.95

R E D

1 6

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

I N N O C E N T B Y S T A N D E R S Y R A H , 2 0 0 9Yarra ValleyAn Australian shiraz calling itself syrah should tell you a lot about the style that winemaker Phil Sexton is aiming for. The cooler climate here in the south and dash of peachy viognier grape gives a freshness and floral edge to the fruit that is much more Côte-Rôtie than Mclaren Vale. An unusually restrained effort and all the better for it.

Drink with: Duck and cherries

Get it: The Sampler; £11.88

R E D

1 7

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

A M A U T A M A L B E C C A B E R N E T S Y R A H , 2 0 1 1Bodegas El Porvenir, Cafayate, SaltaFrom vineyards 3,000m above sea level, and a region increasingly drawing attention from Mendoza, El Porvenir’s Amauta is a deliciously sophisticated wine, the burly malbec dominates but is enhanced by some leaner cabernet sinew and the spicy lift of the syrah. Argentina at its best.

Drink with: Wet-hung fillet steak

Get it: Philglass & Swiggot; £18.70

R E D

HE DIDN’ T R E AD OUR R E S T A U R A N T A D V I C E

W W W . M R H Y D E . C O M @ M R _ H Y D E F A C E B O O K . C O M / M R H Y D E

1 9

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

C L O S F L O R I D E N E B L A N C , 2 0 1 0Graves, BordeauxWhite Bordeaux – once a mainstay of UK white wine consumption but now a relative rarity. This is one of the best examples from the heartland of its production in the Graves region. Crisp but textured, with the merest hint of oak for body. A wholly satisfying drop.

Drink with: Seared scallops

Get it: Haynes, Hanson & Clark; £22.65

W H I T E

2 0

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

L O I S E R B E R G E R G R U N E R V E L T L I N E R , 2 0 0 9 Willi Bründlmayer, KamptalWho would have thought 15 years ago that Austrian whites would be so mainstream today in the UK? But it’s a great thing, especially in the case of this delicious Bründlmayer grüner. Think a dry riesling/sauvignon cross, greengages with a twist of white pepper.

Drink with: Smoked salmon

Get it: Berry Bros & Rudd; £19.95

W H I T E

2 1

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

M E R C U R E Y B L A N C , 2 0 0 7Château de Chamirey, Côte ChalonnaiseA more than capable white Burgundy that comes from the south of the region but tastes like one of the smart crus from the heart of the Côte d’Or. Showing real class and, at five years, some excellent development.

Drink with: Poached chicken

Get it: The Vintner; £22.00

W H I T E

2 2

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

S A I N T - A U B I N 1 E R C R U , L A C H A T E N I E R E , 2 0 0 8 Domaine Gérard Thomas, Côte de BeauneThe sunniest vineyard in Saint-Aubin (the local moggies snooze on the warm stone walls – hence the name) and on the same level as neighbouring sites in Puligny Montrachet. A smart choice as you get similar complexity and minerality at two-thirds of the price.

Drink with: Dover sole

Get it: Handford Wines; £22.95

W H I T E

2 3

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

L E S G E N D R I N E S V I O G N I E R , 2 0 1 1Domaine Pierre Gaillard, Côtes du Rhône Fresh, peachy luscious viognier but with the acidity and mineral drive you only tend to get from these more northerly Rhône vineyards. Just the wrong side of the goat track, otherwise it would be sold at twice the price as a Condrieu.

Drink with: Malaysian prawn curry

Get it: Lea & Sandeman; £18.75

W H I T E

2 4

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

L E S T O U S G E W U R Z T R A M I N E R , 2 0 1 0Domaine Leon Boesch, AlsaceMinimal intervention in the vineyards for this spicy, juicy gewürz. A grape that often divides opinion – this one is much less syrupy and more balanced than many, with fresh ginger and citrus notes rather than normal lychee character. Don’t immediately think Oriental cuisine for pairing.

Drink with: Smoked cheeses

Get it: Green & Blue Wines; £18.50

W H I T E

2 5

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

P I E T R A I N C A T E N A T A F I A N O , 2 0 0 8Luigi Maffini, CampaniaA challenging mouthful – in both senses, this superb fiano is the Puligny-Montrachet of southern Italy. Lively but resonant, with white stone fruits and lactic notes, the name translates as ‘stones in chains’ and is an apt description for a wine which harbours such geologic intensity.

Drink with: Stuffed bream

Get it: Lea & Sandeman; £19.95

W H I T E

2 6

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

V E R D I C C H I O D I M A T E L I C A D O C , 2 0 1 1Bisci, Le MarcheA favourite central Italian wine – easy, refreshing, nicely judged; acidity is gentle but suits the medium-bodied palate. Fresh almonds, citrus and apple characters prevail and a twist of bitter almond on the finish. Verdicchio from Matelica (rather than neighbouring Jesi) tend towards greater freshness and zing.

Drink with: Spaghetti alle Vongole

Get it: Vini Italiani; £15.50

W H I T E

2 7

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

P I N O T G R I S , 2 0 1 1 Stopham Estate, West SussexOne of the UK’s finest dry, still white wines – this has a remarkable depth of ripe fruit, rare given our perennial lack of sunshine. Just dry, with notes of ginger biscuits, limes and English orchards; a benchmark effort for the industry that holds it head up against competition from Alsace and New Zealand.

Drink with: Smoked almonds

Buy it: Vagabond Wines; £16.40

W H I T E

2 8

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

W I L D E A R T H R I E S L I N G , 2 0 1 0Central OtagoFrom very southerly, cool climate, high-altitude vineyards, where the estate follows natural winemaking principles as closely as is pertinent. It has great elegance and vitality and is herbal, smoky and ethereal – a wine you feel in your cheekbones, with that lick of heather honey sweetness that makes good riesling so moreish.

Drink with: Goats’ cheese salad

Get it: Green & Blue Wines; £14.25

W H I T E

2 9

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

A L V A R I N H O , 2 0 1 1Soalheiro, MelgaçoFrom Portugal’s northern tip, and with much more character than many Vinho Verde but carrying no extra weight this is a lovely and rare thing – intensity without density. Fennel tops and pineapple on the nose, complex but charming palate, ripe but delicate, tropical and spicy but very fresh and cleansing. Quite profound.

Drink with: Fresh sardines

Get it: Philglass & Swiggot; £17.65

W H I T E

3 0

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

C A R T E R C H A R D O N N A Y , 2 0 0 7Margaret River, AustraliaAussie chardonnay is making a comeback. No longer custardy, clumsily oaked alcoholic fruit punch – instead, subtle, minerally, lively expressions of this versatile grape, especially from cooler coastal-influenced regions like Margaret River. A compelling melange of apples, cinnamon, pie crust and just a touch of vanilla pod.

Drink with: Salmon en croûte

Get it: WineChap; £18

W H I T E

3 1

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

C H E N I N B L A N C , 2 0 0 9Raats Family Wines, StellenboschChenin is like sauvignon that grew up – put on a little weight but got more interesting. Its spiritual home is the Loire but “steen” as its known in South Africa does well here, growing riper and fuller. The Raats is floral, spicy, creamy but zesty with a butter crumb, like lime pie in a glass.

Drink with: Sushi

Get it: Handford Wines; £14.99

W H I T E

3 2

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

D R Y F U R M I N T , 2 0 0 9 Royal Tokaji Wine Company, TokajiBetter known for its amazing sweet wines, Tokaji’s dry whites are also becoming more fashionable particularly from the furmint grape. Richly dry, exotic and herbal, with some golden apples, anise and white flowers on the nose, and white stones and stone fruits on the generous palate.

Drink with: Trout pâté

Get it: Jeroboams; £10.95

W H I T E

3 3

3 0 W I N E S U N D E R £ 3 0

A U B O N C L I M A T C H A R D O N N A Y , 2 0 1 0Santa BarbaraFrom cool climate Santa Ynez vines this is far removed from the 14.5 per cent toffee apple chardonnays that have fallen from grace. Jim Clendenen instead concentrates on making wines of great purity and poise, with good length and line. Fruit is more citrus than tropical with the mineral tones of fine Burgundy.

Drink with: Lobster

Get it: The Sampler; £21.06

W H I T E

HE D IDN ’ T R E A D O UR S T Y L E A D V IC E

W W W . M R H Y D E . C O M @ M R _ H Y D E F A C E B O O K . C O M / M R H Y D E

R E D

A N D F I V E O V E R £ 5 0

1 E R C R U C L O S P R I E U R , 2 0 0 9Domaine Rossignol-Trapet, Gevrey ChambertinNicolas Rossignol is one of a wave of bright talented young winemakers taking Burgundy by storm. This is scented and floral with vibrant black fruit and some sweet oak influence. Lively on the palate with plush, ripe fruit and velvety tannins. The finish is finely spun with lovely purity.

Drink with: Coq au vin

Get it: Laithwaite’s Wines; £55

R E D

A N D F I V E O V E R £ 5 0

P R E M I E R G R A N D C R U C L A S S E , 2 0 0 9Château Angélus, Saint-ÉmilionThe Château Angélus 2009 has to be a candidate for one of the finest Angêlus ever produced. A blend of 60 per cent merlot and 40 per cent cabernet franc, it’s a velvet-textured, full-bodied, intensely concentrated wine of the highest quality. And, as impressive as it is now, the wine will drink brilliantly for more than three decades.

Drink with: A shoulder of lamb stuffed with garlic and rosemary

Get it: Laithwaite’s Wines; £260

R E D

A N D F I V E O V E R £ 5 0

G R A N D C R U , 2 0 0 7Domaine Jean Grivot, Clos de VougeotThis pinot noir from the Clos de Vougeot wine region is a full-bodied red Burgundy. Weather conditions in 2007 kept grape yields low, resulting in a concentrated wine with attractive deep colours. It boasts dramatically rich, complex aromas with hints of delicious red berry fruits on the nose.

Drink with: Beef bourguignon

Get it: Laithwaite’s Wines; £95

W H I T E

A N D F I V E O V E R £ 5 0

G R A N D C R U , 2 0 0 7Château Puligny-Montrachet, Chevalier-MontrachetChâteau Puligny Montrachet is one of the most renowned properties within its appellation and has vineyards across the Montrachet Hill, which is known to produce some of the most expensive and rarest wines in the world. Intense pure fruit is wrapped in a finely woven texture and minerality.

Drink with: Seared lobster

Get it: Laithwaite’s Wines; £210

W H I T E

A N D F I V E O V E R £ 5 0

G R A N D C R U , 2 0 0 6Domaine Rapet, Corton-CharlemagneA powerful wine that is complex and spicy on the nose, with quite earthy flavours on the soft and lively early palate. There is great potential depth of flavour and good acidity. The barrel ageing lends plenty of structure yet no oak flavours: an incredibly difficult feat to accomplish.

Drink with: Quenelles of pike

Get it: Laithwaite’s Wines; £60

4 0

Tom HarrowChose the 30 wines under £30

Writer, presenter and founder of Winechap.com, offering unique tasting experiences, wine list reviews and a concierge service for eno-tourism and wine portfolio consultancy.

Justin Howard-SneydChose the five wines over £50

Global Wine Director for Laithwaite’s Wine, Justin guides the company’s expert winemakers and leads the team of buyers, who source bottles from around the world.

Editor: Jonathan PileCreative Director: Matt PhareDesigner: Steve WilliamsPicture Editor: Claire GobleProduction Editor: Ben IsaacsSub-Editor: Anthony PearceCoding: Tom WheatleyPhotographs: PixeleyesIllustrations: Jack Hughes© Shortlist Media Limited 2012

MEET THE EXPERTS