straight knife ppt

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY,JODHPUR

SEWN PRODUCTS MACHINERY AND EQUIPMENTS IIASSIGNEMNT-II

TOPIC- STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE

PRESENTED TO: PRESENTED BY:Mr. Pavan Godiawala Shilpy Gupta(Professor) Vaishali Daksh

DFT-IV (2014-2018)

Introduction to cutting - Cutting room process - Classification of cutting machine

CUTTING Cutting is the initial stage in manufacturing of garment.

Garment construction starts with cutting process.

It is a process in which patterns of particular components of garment are separated out of the fabric lays with a help of a cutting machine.

Fabric is being cut into components: - Front - Back - Sleeve

In mass production multiple layers of fabrics are laid on a table and large number of garments is being cut at a time. The laid fabric stack is called as lay.

CUTTING ROOM PROCESS

CLASSIFICATION OF CUTTING MACHINES

Introduction to straight knife cutting machine - Parts of the machine - Classification of blades - Types of Knife edges - Types of Abrasive belts - Features - Mechanism - Maintenance - How to choose the right straight knife machine - Advantages - Disadvantages

STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE

Named straight knife cutting machine because its cutter is straight in shape.

Also known as portable cutting knives because it can be moved through a spread.

Used for woven as well as knit fabrics.

Provides good efficiency.

PARTS OF STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE

Electric Motor- The motor determines the cutting power of the machine. The greater the height or greater the density of the fabric, the greater the horse power required for cutting the spread.

- On The Basis of POWER Straight knife has motors with various power. As the weight of fabric increases the power of the machine should also rise. -110v, .65hp - 220v, .65hp

- 220v, 1hp - 380v, 1hp

- On The Basis of SPEED 1. Single speed 2. Dual speed 3. Variable speed Handle- for better grip and to propel the knife through the spread.

Sharpening Device- Abrasive belt with sharpening material. Its function is to sharpen the knife.

Knife- Cuts the fabric.

Knife Guard- rests on top ply to help stabilize the spread and to protect the operator’s hand. (Metal mesh gloves are used as a safety device)

Base Plate- foundation that supports and helps balance the cutting mechanism.

Rollers- situated under the base plate for the movement of the machine

TYPES OF KNIFE EDGES 

Regular Blade

Long Blade

Slotted Blade

Wave Blade

Saw Blade

TYPES OF ABRASIVE BELTS

Fine (180 grit) – Synthetics,knits, loosely woven materials.

Medium (120 grit) – Cottons, light woolens

Coarse ( 80 grit) – Light denims, tightly woven materials.

Rough ( 60 grit) – Heavy denim, canvas and leathers.

FEATURES

Weight of the machine: 12-15 kg. Knife Height: 10cm to 33cm. Knife Stroke: 2.5cm to 4.5cm. Motor r.p.m: 3000 to 4000

MECHANISM Machine employs abrading mechanism to cut the lay of fabric.

The paper is spread before spreading the lay because the paper helps to easily slide inside the ply and provide less fabric distortion.

The base plate guides the knife in relation to table surface and elevates the spread off the cutting table. It has rollers for the forward movement of the machine.

Operator holds the handle and also stabilize the plies ahead of knife to prevent bunching of fabric.

Two kind of power are required to operate a straight knife - Motor power drives the reciprocating blade - Operator drives the knife through lays

Once the power system is switched on the motor starts rotating causing the reciprocating motion of the knife thus the movement of the blades cuts the fabric. Power required depends on the height of spread and density of fabric to be cut.

The cutting layer height is kept 2 " less than the blade length.

When the lay height is more, than straight knife machine is preferred instead of notcher.

In order to extend the life of the machine’s parts and keep the machine operating correctly, Oiling & cleaning of the machine is necessary.

Initial Oiling - Oil is put in oil housing assembly. - Oil reservoir is filled.

Regular Oiling

MAINTENANCE

Lubricants & Cleaning Agents 1. KEEP-M-KLEEN-Wheel Cleaner This is a spray-on solution which keeps sharpening wheels working at peak efficiency. It also is excellent for cleaning guides and other parts.

2. CUTSOL A special formula wetting agent for cutting synthetic and fusible fabrics.

3. OIL & GREASE

HOW TO CHOOSE THE CORRECT STRAIGHT KNIFE

The following characteristics should be considered before ordering a straight knife:

• Stroke- It is the distance the blade moves from its top to its bottom position. It affects speed and ease of cutting, smoothness of the cut edge on material, wear of the machine and possible fusing of the materials. Strokes of the machine: 1-1/4’’ Short 1-3/8’’ Medium 1-1/2’’ Long 1- 3/4’’ Extra Long

• Motor Power- It controls the potential cutting speed. Power required depends on the height of spread and density of fabric to be cut. High power determines the amount of thrust or cutting power of blade. The more powerful the motor, the heavier it is, due to the additional iton in its core.

• Size- The ideal size of the machine is one in which the handle is close to the top of the lay of the spread.The size basically depends on the blade length of the machine.Size of the blades:- 6 inches- 7 inches- 8 inches- 10 inches- 13 inches

ADVANTAGES 75% of fabric lays can be cut by the machine due to high length of knife & r.p.m. of the motor. So, productivity is high.

Automatic grinding.

Automatically lubrication.

Comparatively cheap.

Can be moved easily by wheel.

Suitable for straight line & curve line.

Can cut high curve line than round knife

Fabric can be cut from any angle

DISADVANTGESHigh speed of the machine causes high risk of damage.

Faulty knife could damage fabric layer.

Risk is high for physical damage of operator.

Knife required replacing.

1/8 inches cutting difference occurs due to the thickness of base plate, as base plate gets inserted below lay it lifts the lower layer creating a hump thus cutting lower layer less than upper layer.

Changing direction of cutting at time of cutting sharp edges and curves little cutting difference is created in upper layer as compared to lower layer.

Models of Straight knife cutting machine - Eastman 629X Blue Streak II - Eastman 627VS Brute Variable Speed - Eastman 629XPM / 627XPM Plastic Master - Eastman 629XMF / 627XMF Micro Fog - Eastman 627X brute

MODELS OF STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE

MODEL: Eastman 629X Blue Streak II

The machine features a low profile, polished, streamlined base plate is designed to reduce friction and distortion in the lay, regardless of the number of plies.

Constructed of superior quality materials to ensure durability and longevity.

It is used for cloth cutting.

Power to weight ratio offers easy handling  and movement, even for the tightest radius.

Simple handling of the machine due to its low center of gravity.

Low maintenance requiring only daily lubricating with the easy-to-use One Shot single-reservoir oiling system

Motor: 110V, 1ph, 50/60Hz 220V, 1ph or 3ph, 50/60Hz 380V, 3ph, 50Hz Standard: Single Speed Optional: Dual Speed

Weight: 34 lbs. (15.4kg)

Horsepower: .65hp, 1ph .93hp, 3ph

Blade size: 5 in. (12.7cm) 6 in (15.2 cm) 7 in. (17.7 cm) 8 in. (20.3 cm) 9 in. (22.8 cm) 10 in. (25.4 cm) 11.5 in. (29.2 cm) 13 in. (33 cm)

Cutting capacity: 3.5 in (8.9cm) 4.5 in. (11.4cm) 5.5 in (13.9cm) 6.5 in (16.5cm) 7.5 in. (19.1cm) 8.5 in. (21.5cm) 10 in. (25.4cm) 11.5 in. (29.2cm)

SPECIFICATIONS

Model: Eastman 627VS Brute Variable Speed

Enhanced with a variable speed motor to offer increased acceleration, and smoother operation, all while saving energy.

It is the only cloth cutting machine on the market that runs at 4,000 RPM’s.

Heavy-duty performance for cutting extra heavy cloth or an increased number of ply.

Cutting of intricate patterns and tight turns due to the low-profile baseplate .

Available in the same sizes, strokes and electrical configurations as the standard Blue Streak II model

SPECIFICATIONSMotors: 110V, 1ph, 50/60Hz 220V, 1ph or 3ph, 50/60Hz Standard: Single Speed Optional: Dual Speed, Variable Speed

Horsepower: 2hp, 1ph at 4,000 RPM 2hp, 3ph at 4,000 RPM

Weight: 41 lbs. (18.5kg)

Blades: Standard: Carbon Steel Optional: High Speed Steel, PTFE Coated, Wave Edge, Wave Groove, Angled Tip

Belts: Standard: Medium Grit Optional: Fine, Coarse, Rough

Stroke Sizes: 1.125 in. (2.86cm) 1.25 in. (3.18cm) 1.5 in. (3.81cm) 1.75 in. (4.45cm)

Blade Sizes: 5 in. (12.7cm) 6 in (15.2 cm) 7 in. (17.7 cm) 8 in. (20.3 cm) 9 in. (22.8 cm) 10 in. (25.4 cm) 11.5 in. (29.2 cm) 13 in. (33 cm)

Cutting Capacity: 3.5 in (8.9cm) 4.5 in. (11.4cm) 5.5 in (13.9cm) 6.5 in (16.5cm) 7.5 in. (19.1cm) 8.5 in. (21.5cm) 10 in. (25.4cm) 11.5 in. (29.2cm)

Model: Eastman 629XPM / 627XPM Plastic Master

Designed specifically to eliminate materials from fusing during the cutting of intricate patterns or straight lines.

This is a perfect choice for cutting plastic and other fusible materials such as PVC, vinyl, and reinforced plastics.

The Plastic Master™ is available in a standard version, 629XPM, and a heavy-duty version, 627XPM, where a moistening attachment is added.

Heat reducing features such as a dual speed motor, short stroke and wave blade reduce blade contact by 80%.

Coolant flow can be adjusted to achieve the desired degree of lubrication and cooling required

SPECIFICATIONS

Motors: 110V, 1ph, 50/60Hz 220V, 1ph or 3ph, 50/60Hz 380V, 3ph, 50Hz Standard: Single Speed Optional: Dual Speed

Horsepower: .65hp, 1ph .93hp, 3ph

Weight: 34 lbs. (15.4kg)

Blades: Standard: Carbon Steel Optional: High Speed Steel, PTFE Coated, Wave Edge, Wave Groove, Angled Tip

Belts: Standard: Medium Grit Optional: Fine, Coarse, Rough

Options: Micro Fog only available for 6 in. and 8 in.

Stroke Sizes: 1.125 in. (2.86cm) 1.25 in. (3.18cm) 1.5 in. (3.81cm) 1.75 in. (4.45cm)

Blade Sizes: 6 in (15.2 cm) 8 in. (20.3 cm)

Cutting Capacity: 4.5 in. (11.4cm) 6.5 in (16.5cm)

Model: Eastman 629XMF / 627XMF Micro Fog

Ensures maximum heat reduction for cutting highly fusible materials and plastics.

The Micro Fog device sends a mist of coolant / lubricant behind the knife and out through a specially slotted knife-slide to penetrate every layer and to eliminate the conditions that cause fusing.

The Micro Fog™ is available in a standard version, 629XMF, and a heavy-duty version, 627XMF.

SPECIFICATIONS

Motors: 110V, 1ph, 50/60Hz 220V, 1ph or 3ph, 50/60Hz 380V, 3ph, 50Hz Standard: Single Speed Optional: Dual Speed

Horsepower: .65hp, 1ph .93hp, 3ph

Weight: 34 lbs. (15.4kg)

Blades: Standard: Carbon Steel Optional: High Speed Steel, PTFE Coated, Wave Edge, Wave Groove, Angled Tip

Belts: Standard: Medium Grit Optional: Fine, Coarse, Rough

Options: Micro Fog only available for 6 in. and 8 in.

Stroke Sizes: 1.125 in. (2.86cm) 1.25 in. (3.18cm) 1.5 in. (3.81cm) 1.75 in. (4.45cm)

Blade Sizes: 6 in (15.2 cm) 8 in. (20.3 cm)

Cutting Capacity: 4.5 in. (11.4cm) 6.5 in (16.5cm)

Model: Eastman 627X brute

Designed to cut the toughest fabrics or an increased number of ply.

The model 627X is Eastman’s most powerful straight knife cutting machine and is available in the same sizes, strokes, and electrical configurations as the standard Blue Streak II cutting machine.

The Straight Knife Cutting Machine has an extra powerful motor, nearly twice the horsepower of the standard Blue Streak II model, up to 2.2hp

SPECIFICATIONS

Motors: 110V, 1ph, 50/60Hz 220V, 1ph or 3ph, 50/60Hz 380V, 3ph, 50Hz Standard: Single Speed Optional: Dual Speed, Variable Speed

Horsepower: 1.25hp, 1ph 2.2hp, 3ph

Weight: 37 lbs. (16.7kg)

Blades: Standard: Carbon Steel Optional: High Speed Steel, PTFE Coated, Wave Edge, Wave Groove, Angled Tip

Belts: Standard: Medium Grit Optional: Fine, Coarse, Rough

Options: Micro Fog, Plastic Master, Auto Stop (Note: Auto stop, Micro Fog and Plastic Master are only available in 6 in. and 8 in.)

Stroke Sizes:1.125 in. (2.86cm) 1.25 in. (3.18cm) 1.5 in. (3.81cm) 1.75 in. (4.45cm)

Blade Sizes: 5 in. (12.7cm) 6 in (15.2 cm) 7 in. (17.7 cm) 8 in. (20.3 cm) 9 in. (22.8 cm) 10 in. (25.4 cm) 11.5 in. (29.2 cm) 13 in. (33 cm)

Cutting Capacity: 3.5 in (8.9cm) 4.5 in. (11.4cm) 5.5 in (13.9cm) 6.5 in (16.5cm) 7.5 in. (19.1cm) 8.5 in. (21.5cm) 10 in. (25.4cm) 11.5 in. (29.2cm)

Thank You