rock climbing
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RockClimbing
PhilWatts,PhD
NorthernMichiganUniversity
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LibraryofCongressCataloginginPublicationDataWatts,PhillipBaxter,1951Rockclimbing/PhilWatts.p.cm.(Outdoorpursuitsseries)Includesindex.ISBN08732281461.Rockclimbing.I.Title.II.Series.GV200.2.W381996796.5'223dc209538817CIP
ISBN:0873228146
Copyright1996byHumanKineticsPublishers,Inc.
Allrightsreserved.Exceptforuseinareview,thereproductionorutilizationofthisworkinanyformorbyanyelectronic,mechanical,orothermeans,nowknownorhereafterinvented,includingxerography,photocopying,andrecording,andinanyinformationstorageandretrievalsystem,isforbiddenwithoutthewrittenpermissionofthepublisher.
Animportantnotetoreaders:Thisisaninstructionalbookaboutrockclimbing,asportthatispotentiallydangerous.Becauseoftherisksinvolvedinrockclimbing,theauthorandpublisherstronglyrecommendthattheinformationprovidedinthisbookbeusedonlytosupplementqualifiedpersonalinstructionfromaclimbingexpertorguide.
DevelopmentalEditor:JulieRhodaAssistantEditors:SusanMoore,KirbyMittelmeier,AnnGreenseth,JohnWentworth,SandraMerzBottEditorialAssistant:JenniferHemphillCopyeditor:MichaelRyderProofreader:JimBurnsIndexer:BarbaraE.CohenTypesetters:StuartCartwrightandRubyZimmermanTextDesigner:KeithBlombergLayoutArtist:StuartCartwrightPhotoEditor:BoydLaFoonPhotographer(interior):RichardEtchberger,unlessotherwisenotedPhotographer(cover):DanielLevison/VerticalImageryCoverDesigner:JackDavisIllustrator:ThomasBradleyIllustration&Design
HumanKineticsbooksareavailableatspecialdiscountsforbulkpurchase.Specialeditionsorbookexcerptscanalsobecreatedtospecification.Fordetails,contacttheSpecialSalesManageratHumanKinetics.
PrintedinHongKong10987654321
HumanKineticsP.O.Box5076,Champaign,IL61825507618007474457
Canada:HumanKinetics,Box24040,Windsor,ONN8Y4Y918004657301(inCanadaonly)
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Contents
Chapter1GoingRockClimbing 1
WhyRockClimbing? 2
TypesofRockClimbing 4
GettingStarted 10
AnOverview 11
Chapter2RockClimbingEquipment 15
ChoosingaRockShoe 16
Chalk 19
ChoosingaClimbingHarness 19
SelectingaRope 21
ConnectingtheAnchorSystem 25
BelayDevices 29
ArtificialAnchors 30
Helmets 34
AFinalNoteonSafeEquipment 36
Chapter3RockClimbingCorrectly
37
FaceClimbing 39
CrackClimbing 47
CounterpressureTechniques 52
ProtectingYourselfWhileClimbingHowtoSetUpAnchors 56
SettingUpaTopRopeAnchorSystem 61
Belaying 65
HowtoBeginLeading 70
LeadingSportClimbs 76
HowtoGetDown 78
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Chapter4RockClimbingFitnessandSafety 81
PreparingtoClimb 82
DevelopingClimbingSpecificFitness 86
DressingfortheRock 92
ObjectiveHazards 92
Chapter5TheBestPlacestoRockClimb 95
UnitedStatesGetaways 97
CanadianClimbing 104
ClassicRockoftheUnitedKingdom 108
AEuropeanSampler 111
ClimbingDownUnder 114
OtherSummits 115
Chapter6PursuingClimbingFurther 117
CompetitiveSportClimbing 118
IceClimbing 120
AlpineMountaineering 121
ClosingThoughts 123
AppendixForMoreInformation 125
Organizations 125
Books 127
Guidebooks 127
Periodicals 128
Videos 129
RockClimbingLingo 130
Index 133
Acknowledgment 138
AbouttheAuthor 139
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1GoingRockClimbing
TheSierraskyisaperfectblueand,althoughitismidsummer,themorningairiscomfortablycoolasyoumoveupward.Yourhandssearchforbumpsandknobsinandaroundthesinglecrackthatwandersupthiswhitegraniteslab.Thereisajoyinyourmovementsalightnessexpressedassubtlebalances,gentlepulls,andprecisestepsasyoufollowanancientfissure.Thelake,some300verticalfeetbelow,promisesarelaxingswimoncethesummitisattainedandacarefuldescentisnegotiated.Fornow,it'sjustthesun,thewind,andthemovementovertherock.Thisisrockclimbingatitsbesthighandfreeinabeautiful,naturalenvironment.
MountainsummitshavefiguredsignificantlyinhistorysinceMoses'earlytrekupMr.SinaiandtheEmperorHadrian's2ndcenturyA.D.ascentofMountEtnatoviewthesunrise.Intheearly18thcentury,theglaciercladAlpsofEuropebegantoattractafewadventurersandscientists,andbythe1850srecreationalmountaineeringwaswellestablishedandthefirstclimbingclubhadbeenformed.
Astheeasiersummitswereattainedandattentionturnedtowardmoredifficultpeaks,itbecamenecessarytodevelopsafetyequipmentandmaster
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specializedskillsforclimbingrock.Evenintotheearly20thcentury,difficultrockclimbingwasconsideredtobemerepracticeforascendingtheworld'shighpeaks.Sincethe1930s,however,rockclimbinghasevolvedintoagreatoutdooractivityinitsownright.Today,climbersofallagesenjoyroutesupeasy,lowangledslabs,steep,verticalfaces,anddifficult,nearlyhorizontal,overhangs.
Rockclimbinghasbeendescribedasdancelike,evenplayful,likeagame.Climbsvaryfromshorttraversesjustinchesoffthegroundtocontinuousascentsofsoaringwallsthatinvolvethousandsofdizzyingfeet.Youcanjoininatwhateverleveliscomfortableforyou.
ThincrackclimbinginTuolumneMeadows,California.
WhyRockClimbing?
Oneattractionofrockclimbingistheopportunityforpersonalchallenge.Climbingroutesareratedfordifficultyonanascendingnumericalscalethatenablesyoutofollowyourprogressandselectnewchallengesasformeronesareachieved.
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Asasocialactivity,climbingishardtobeat.Familiesandfriendscangatheratthecragforadayofroutes,thencasuallyreminiscearoundtheeveningcampfire.Thenaturalsettingofmostrockclimbingareasprovidesyouwithopportunitiestocombineclimbingwithotheroutdooractivities,likemountainbikinguptheOwensRiverGorgeinCaliforniaorbackpackingintotheEnchantmentLakeswildernessofWashington.
Thevarioustypesofrockyielddifferenttexturesandfeatures.Theseproducedifferent"moods"ofclimbing,fromthepowerful,steepquartzitecrankingatDevil'sLakeinWisconsintothedelicatebalanceandprecisefootworkrequiredontheglacierpolishedgraniteofTuolumneMeadowsinCalifornia.Learningtorecognizeandusethesefeaturesashandandfootholdsprovidesanintriguingelementofproblemsolvinginrockclimbing.
ROCKFEATURES
areteAsharp,outsidecornerofrock.
bucketsLargeholdswithpositivelips.
buttressAmajorcornerfeaturelargerthananarete.
chimneyAcrackbigenoughtofitmostorallofthebodyinto.
crimpersSmallyetpositiveedgesofrock,justbigenoughforthefingertipstogriporsmaller.
dihedralAninsidecornerofrock.Alsoknownasan"openbook."
edgesSmallledgesofrockofvarioussizes.
faceAsteep,flatexpanseofrock.
flakeAwaferlikesectionofrockthathaspeeledpartwayfromthemainface.Flakescanbeassmallassinglehandholdsorbigenoughtocrawlbehind.
hornA"hornlike"projectionofrock,usuallygraspedatthetop.
jugAprojectionorcolumnofrockthatisgraspedlikeajughandle.
knobsProjectionsofrockthataregraspedorpinchedwiththefingersorhand.Knobsareoftencrystalsimbeddedinthemainrock.
nicheApocketoralcoveintherockthatisatleastlargeenoughforbothhandsorbothfeet.Whenanicheisbigenoughforone'sentirebody,itisoftencalledanalcove.
overhangArockfeaturethatissteeperthanvertical.
pocketsHolesordimplesintherock.Abigpocketcanbeabucket.
rampAledgelikefeaturethatleadsupwardandacrossthemainrock.
roofAlarge,horizontaloverhang.Alsocalledaceiling.
slabAlow,angled,relativelysmoothsheetofrock.
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Oneofthemajorbenefitsofrockclimbingisitscontributiontooverallphysicalfitness.Theavailablerangeofdifficultiesenablesalmostanyonetobeginclimbing,andcontinuingtheactivitygraduallydevelopsone'sstrength,endurance,flexibility,andbalance.Perhapsbestofall,rockclimbingleadstosummitstheelusivehighplacesofdreamsandvisions.
TypesofRockClimbing
Advancesinequipmentandtechniqueshavemadethesportavailableandrelativelysafeforpersonsofallages.Modernnylonclimbingropesarevirtuallyunbreakablewhenusedappropriately,andnewanchordeviceshavesimplifiedoverallprotectionfortheclimber.
Boulderingprovidesenergeticpracticeforasolitaryclimberorproblemsolvingchallengesamongfriends.
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Themostbasicformofrockclimbingisbouldering,orclimbingoverrockclosetothegroundwithoutanchors,ropes,andharnesses.Easytoverydifficultmovementsmaybetriedinrelativesafety,particularlyifapartnerspots,orhelpstocatchtheclimberduringshortfalls.Thepurityofboulderingappealstomany:Exceptforapairofspecializedrockshoesandabitofgymnasticchalkforthefingers,it'sjustyouandtherock.
Whentherockgetshighenoughthatseriousinjuryordeathcouldresultfromafall,mostclimbersusearopeandananchorsystem.Theanchorsystemconsistsofoneormoresolidpointsofattachmentoftheropetotherock.Anchorsmaybenaturalfeatures,suchastreesorrockhorns,ormechanicaldevices,whichtheclimbercarriesandwedgesintotherock.Oneendoftheropeistiedthroughaharnesswornaroundtheclimber'swaistandattachedtotheanchorsbyspringgated,aluminumcarabiners.Theotherendoftheropeismanagedbytheclimber'spartner,whocanapplyabrakingforcethatenablestheropeandanchorsystemtohold,orcatch,afallenclimber.
Manysmallercragscanbetopropedtoprovideawidesafetymargin.
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Often,aconvenienttrailprovidesaccesstothetopofarockcrag.Insuchcases,ananchorsystemfortheropemaybesetupatthetopofthecragbeforeclimbingbeginsandtheroutetoproped.
Sometimesthereisnoeasyroute,andyoumustleadtheropeasyouclimbbysettingintermediateanchorsalongtheway.Theseintermediateanchorsareestablishedatintervalsalongtheclimbingroute,andtheropeclippedontoeachanchorusingacarabiner.Thispracticelimitsfallstothedistancebetweentheclimberandherlastanchorplusthatdistanceagainasthefallcontinuespasttheanchorandtheropetightens.
Thetwotypesofleadingdifferinhowtheintermediateanchorsareestablished.Traditionalleadsinvolvetheclimberconfiguringanchorpointsintherockduringtheascentusinganassortmentofdevices,orprotection(proforshort),whicharecarriedonacordaroundtheneckorontheclimber'sharness.Theproisrecoveredbytheleader'spartner,thesecond,asshefollowstheroute.
Makingdecisionsaboutwhereandhowtoplaceprotectionaddstothechallengeoftraditionalleading.
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Thesecondtype,sportleads,involvetheuseofpresetanchors,usuallysteelbolts,thathavebeenpermanentlyfixedalongtheroute.Theseanchorsnormallyarespacedsuchthatfallswillberelativelyshortandtheclimbercanconcentrateonsolvingthemovementcomplexitiesoftheroute.Forthisreason,sportroutestendtobedifficult.
Withboltanchorsinplace,sportleadingisoftencalled''clipandgo"climbing.
Bothtypesofleadinginvolvemorethanmerelymakingthemovesontherock.Theleadermustcontinuallymakedecisionsregardingthedirectionoftheroute,whenandhowtoplacesolidintermediateanchors,andhowbesttoconserveenergy.Leadingrockclimbsisseriousbusiness:Itrequiresasteadymindandbodyandtheexperiencenecessarytomakeappropriatejudgments.
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DifficultyRatingsforRockClimbs
Onceyouhavemasteredthebasicsofrockclimbing,youcanevaluateyourprogressbyattemptingmoredifficultroutes.Publishedguidebooksthatdescribespecificroutesareoftenavailableforestablishedclimbingareas.Thegeneraldifficultyofaparticularrouteisassignedanumerical"Class"value:
Class1walkingoverrelativelyflatterrain.
Class2hikingovervariedterrainontrailsorthroughopencountry.
Class3scramblingoversteepterrainwherethehandsareoccasionallyusedforbalanceandsupport.BecarefulwiththetermClass3,howeveritdoesn'talwaysmeantheclimbingiseasy.Someguidebooksusethetermtoindicateclimbingunroped,regardlessofthedifficulty.
Class4climbingovereasyterrainrequiringsignificantuseofthehandsandarmsforsupportandwhereafallcouldbefatal.Manyclimberswillputonaharness,tieintotherope,anduseanchorsonClass4routes.
Class5technicalclimbingwherearope,anchors,andotherspecializedequipmentarealwaysusedforprotection.Class5climbing,alsoknownasfreeclimbing,istheprimaryfocusofthistext.Thetermfreeclimbinghereisnottobeconfusedwithfreesoloing,whichmeansclimbingtechnicalClass5rockwithoutarope(asyouwouldinClass3climbing)averydangerousproposition.
Class6climbingthatrequirestheuseofartificialmeanssuchaspullingontherope,standingondevicesplacedintherock,orascendingsometypeofladder.Class6climbingisoftenreferredtoasaidclimbingandisdesignatedbytheletterAfollowedbyanumber,from0to5,toindicatetheoveralldifficultylevel.
SubjectivesystemshavebeendevelopedaroundtheworldtoratethedifficultyofvariousClass5rockclimbs.TheYosemiteDecimalSystem(YDS)ismostcommonforNorthAmericanroutesandcurrentlyrangesfrom5.0through5.14d.Suchratingscanhelpyoudiscriminateamongseveralpotentialroutesandgiveyousomeideawhetherarouteisappropriateforanovice,orisonethatwouldscarehimoutofthesportforever.Thesenumericalsystemsalsoenableyoutonoteyourpersonalprogressinclimbing.
Itisimportanttorealize,however,thatalloftheratingsystemsaresubjective.Aparticularclimbmayactually"feel"quitedifferenttodifferentpersons.Traditionally,theratinghasindicatedthedifficultyofthehardest
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ROCKCLIMBINGRATINGSYSTEMS
American French Australian Likelyperception
5.05.45.55.6
10111213
Straightforwardmoveswithvariablesizeholds.
5.75.85.9
5a5b5c
14151617
Morecomplexmovesandpositionsoversteeperterrainwithsmallerhandandfootholds.
5.10a5.10b5.10c5.10d
6a6b
18192021
Ahandand/orfootholdmaybemissingforsomemoves.Mayrequiresomespecifictrainingyetis"doable"bymeremortals.
5.11a5.11b5.11c5.11d
6c7a
22232425
Tinyormissingholdsformostmoves.Steeptooverhanging.Requiresproblemsolvingskills.Apegenesmaybehelpful.
5.12a5.12b5.12c5.12d
7b7c
252626272728
Progressivelymoredifficultproblemsolvingandmovementsequences.Extremelysmallandlimitedholdsonsteepterrainorsomegoodholdsonnearhorizontaloverhangs.
5.13a5.13b5.13c5.13d
8a8b
2829293030313132
Sameasfor5.12range,butharder.Specifictrainingvirtuallyrequired.Vergesonsciencefiction,butafairnumberofclimberscandoit.
5.14a5.14b5.14c5.14d
8c 323233333434
Unreal!Likeclimbingoverhangingglass.Definitelyworldclass,butpossible.
individualmoveonaparticularroute.Thus,a27meter5.9routecouldhaveonemoveof5.9within30easiermovesof5.6,oritcouldinvolveone5.9moveafteranotherfortheentire27meters.SomeguidebookswillprovideaprotectionratingbyfollowingtheYDSratingwithanRforrunout,indicatinglargedistancesbetweenintermediateanchorpoints,oranXindicatingnonexistentprotectionanddeathpotentialfromfalls.Alwaysgiveyourselfsomeflexibilitywhenexploringanewareaforthefirsttimeand,whenindoubt,selectroutesconservativelythatis,beginwitheasierroutesandworkuptheratings.
AscentStylesforRockClimbing
Thenatureoftherockandthenaturalfeaturesalongtheroutedeterminethelevel.ofdifficultyofanascent,andthusdictatethesubjectivedifficultyrating.Amongthedifferent"styles"ofclimbingaroute,however,someaddadegreeofdifficultywithoutchangingtheoverallnumericalrating.Adding
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difficultybyusingamorechallengingstylecanenhanceyoursenseofaccomplishmentuponcompletingaroute.AseriesoftermshavebeenstandardizedtodescribetheparticularstyleofanascentofaClass5route:
onsightflashAcompletefirsttryleadoftheroutewithoutfallsandwithoutanypriorviewingorknowledgeoftheroute.Theultimatestyle.
betaflashAfirsttryleadoftheroutewithoutfalls,butafterreceivingsomeinformation,or"beta,"abouttherouteorspecificmovesinvolved.
redpointAcompleteleadoftheroutewithoutfalls,followingpreviousattemptsorpracticeontheroute.
pinkpointThesameasRedPointexceptthattheroutehasbeenpreprotectedwithanchorpointssuchthattheclimbermerelyhastocliptheropethroughthem.
topropeClimbingwiththeropealreadyanchoredabovetovirtuallyeliminatefalldistance.
GettingStarted
Climbsthatinvolvesettingupanchorsandusingharnessesandropescanbecomplicated.Thisbookprovidesyouwiththebasicfundamentalsofmovingonrock,selectingandusingequipment,andideasfortrainingtoimproveyourclimbing.However,thereisnoadequatesubstituteforpersonalcinstructionfromaqualifiedclimbinginstructororguide.Specificsafetytechniquesarepresentedthroughoutthetext,butifatechniqueorconceptismisinterpretedandincorrectlypracticed,theconsequencescouldbeseriousorfatal.
Manyuniversitiesofferbeginningrockclimbinginstruction,andlocalclimbingorganizationsandclubsoftenholdseminarsandclasses.Informationonwhatisavailablecanusuallybefoundatyourlocaloutdoorequipmentstore.TheAmericanMountainGuidesAssociation(listedintheAppendix)canalsohelpyouidentifyrockclimbinginstructorsandguidesinyourarea.
Rockclimbingisapartnersport.Evenboulderingusuallyrequiresapartnertospotyoufordifficultmoves.Youwillneedtobeselectivewhenidentifyingaclimbingpartner,becauseyourlifemaydependuponthisperson.Takethetimetofindsomeonewithwhomyoucancommunicatewell,andwhomyoucantrust.
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AnOverview
Wewillbeginbyreviewingthearrayofequipmentusedinrockclimbing.Chapter2acquaintsyouwiththegear,fromsecuringyourselfintoaharnessthroughtyingintotheropeandclippingintoyourfirstanchor.MovementtechniquesforefficientandenjoyableclimbingarepresentedinChapter3.Youwillalsolearnmoreaboutusingtechnicalequipmenttoenablesafeclimbinginthischapter.InChapter4youwilllearnaboutspecifictrainingthatcanimproveyourclimbingperformance.Chapter5isacolorfulandexcitingtourofclassiccragsaroundtheworld.Thischaptershouldconjureupafewdreamsandfuturevacationplans.Manyrockclimbersalsoenjoyusingtheirskillsontheworld'shighmountains,wheretheroutesmaypassovericeandsnowinadditiontorock.BasicintroductionstoiceclimbingandAlpinemountaineeringarefoundinChapter6.Thischapteralsocontainssometipsaboutcompetitiverockclimbing.AttheendofthebookyouwillfindaninformativeAppendixthathasanextensivelistofresourcesforadditionalinformationandaGlossaryofbothtechnicalandslangtermsusedinrockclimbing.
GONETOTHEHAPPYHUNTINGGROUNDS
ItisnestledamongthepinesintheHawk'sNestareaofDevil'sLakeStatepark,Wisconsin24metersofadventureonslickredandpurplequartzite.Thenewcropofupstart,sportclimberhotshotsflashitonsightaratheraggravatingexhibition,sinceittookmefiveyearstomovethroughthemaincrux.Ofcourse,Ionlyattemptedtherouteahalfdozentimesoverthatperiod,butstill.....Theoneconsolationisthateveryonewhogoesupitcomesdownwithbloodengorgedforearms,sweatybrows,andmorethanabitofoxygendebt.AtleastnowIknowtherouteissupposedtobedifficult.
Untilayearago,IthoughtitwastherouteREx,whichwasratedF9BinthearchaicsystemoftheDevil'sLakeguidebook.TheF9Bratingwouldtranslateintosomethingaround5.9+to5.10ainanyothersource.Difficultbutnotimpossibleforafortyish,absentmindedprofessortype.Theinitial12meterswereworkedoutonthefirstdayofattempts,beforethecruxmovesstalledmejustbelowanexcellent,or"bomber"(shortforbombproof),horizontaledge.Iknewthatedgewasthekey.Iwouldbehomefreeupthetop12metersifIcouldjustgetitwitharighthand.Thenextyearithappened!Istemmedmyfootoutrightontoaslopinghold,liftedtheleftfootafewincheshigherintothebaseofthe
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smalldihedral,andreached...yes!ThebomberIhadit!Iwasofftothetop!But,wait...realitycheck...Iwasgoingnowhere.Ipulleduponthebomberandlockedoffthearmwithmyelbowtightlyflexed,butnothingappearedforthelefthandandtherewaslessforthefeet.So,Ijusthungthere,lockedoffwithmyforearmsgorgedwithblood,orpumped,untilIfell.Andthat'sthewayitwentforthenextthreeyears:huffupthecrack,reachdelicatelyfortherightpocket,powerintothelayback,crank,crankagain,stemandreachforthebomber,pullandlockoff,hang...pump...fall.
NotallvisitstoDevil'sLakewerespentlockedoffonREx.Afterall,otherclassicssuchasCharybdis(5.8),Anomie(5.9),andAlphaCentauri(5.10d)arewithin9metersofithardroutesthatIcouldactuallydo.AlphaCentauriactuallybegantofeeleasy.Still,afterclimbingthesegreatroutes,IwouldglanceoveratRExandshrug.
AtsomepointduringthoseyearsIrealizedthatIhadmisinterpretedtheDevil'sLakeguidebook.WhatIthoughtwasRExwasactuallytherouteHappyHuntingGroundsandwasratedF10aintheguidebook'ssystem.Itcouldpossiblybecalled5.10d,maybeeven5.11a,anywhereelse.Thisallowedmetorationalizemylackofsuccessandprovidedanexcusetorepeattheotherroutesinstead.Ididoccasionallytryit,however,andevenrevealedittootherclimbers.Iwatchedafewoftheselockoffonthatbomber,reachupwiththelefthandandlevitateoverthebulge,meanderupandaroundtheblocks,andfinallyworkunderthebigroofandouttotheanchors.SomediditafteratryortwoTodd,Miles,hisbrotherBill,even"Gumby."However,Iwatchedmorethanthesefewlockoffatthebomber,pause,thenfallandlowertothegroundhuffingandcomplainingaboutgettingpumpedandruiningtherestoftheday.
Then,onarecentspringmorning,IwatchedasPaulflashedit!Paul,whohasonlybeenclimbingacoupleofyears,huffedandgruntedabitthroughthelowermovesthenlockedoffthe"bomber,"reached,grabbed,andfloateduptotheroof.Teenagers!
Thenitwasmyturn.AfteratwoyearsabbaticalfromHappyHuntingGrounds,Iwastiedintotheropeandpullinguptheliebacktosetupthereachforthebomber.Althoughthemoveswerenotthesmoothest,theywent.Igotfourfingersonthehold,pulled,lockedoff,pumped...andfell.
It'seasytobecomeobsessedwitharoute,butIknowthereareaboutazillionreasonableroutesoutthere,soanobsessionissimplynotjustified.WiththisthoughtIuntiedfromtherope,munchedaPopTart,andenjoyedthesunthroughthepines.Afewotherfriendstriedtheroute
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andoneactuallygotthebomber,buteventhisonelocked,pumped,andfell.Paulhadtoleaveforhomeand,ashorttimelater,myfamilystartedpackingupforthehikedowntotheparkinglot.MyropehungunoccupiedonHappyHuntingGrounds.
WithinashorttimeIwastiedinandheadedupagainformyusuallockoff,pump,andfall.Afteronegofromtheusualperspective,Iallowedamoreexploratoryglanceouttotheright,aroundthesubtlecorner,andspiedasmalltriangularpocketbigenoughforatoe.Iswitchedhandsonthebombertoaleftclinginordertoreachthepocket,thenfingertippeda"littlenothing"bumpupontherightasIliftedmyleftfoothighintotheshallowdihedral.Carefulbalancethenallowedareleaseofthebomber,areachhighertoashallow,slopinghold,thenarighthanduptoagoodbucket.Iheardtrumpetfanfares!Fireworkslitthesky!Therestoftheroutetotheroofwaspurejoy.ThisnowclassicroutepresentedsomewildpositionsasImovedtenuouslyunderthedarkceiling,thendelicatelyouttotheright,searchingforthereachoverthelipandtheholdsleadinguptotheanchors.Theholdsappearedjustintime,andIlevitatedoutanduptothetop.Whew!Ievendidthecruxmovesagainjusttobecertain.Later,thesixhourdrivehomefromDevil'sLakeseemedbriefasitwasfilledwithpleasantvisionsofmovinguptheroute.Afterfiveyears,thisadventurous24meterstotheHappyHuntingGroundshadfinallybecomeafamiliarpath.
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2RockClimbingEquipment
Yoursafetyandsuccessinrockclimbingdepend,invariousdegrees,uponyourequipment.Avisittothelocalclimbingshoporalookthroughoneofthecurrentgearcataloguescanbearealeyeopener.Awidevarietyofequipmentisavailablethesedays,andthepricetagsmayseemexcessive,particularlybecausemaintainingareasonablemarginofsafetyoftenprecludesthepurchaseofuseditems.
Fortunately,thenaturalprogressioninclimbingfromboulderingtotopropingand,eventually,toleadingascentsenablesagradualaccumulationofthenecessaryitems.Technicalclimbinginvolvestwoormorepersons,andmostclimberswillpooltheirequipmentatthecragforinstance,onepartnersuppliestheropeandtheothertheanchorgear.
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Boulderingrequiresminimalequipment:awellfittedpairofclimbingshoesandachalkbagwillusuallydo.Topropeclimbingrequiresaropeandanchorgear,butitisstillrelativelyinexpensiveincomparisonwithmanyotherexerciseandsportactivities.Traditionalleadclimbingrequiresawiderassortmentofanchordevicesandassociatedgear,buteventheexpenseofaleadclimbingsetupcanbeminimizedwithoutcompromisingsafety.
ChoosingaRockShoe
Thereisuniversalagreementthattheoneitemofgearhavingthemostimpactonrockclimbingperformanceisfootwear.Rockclimbingwasoriginallypracticeformountaineering,andearlyclimberswouldslipandslideuptherockinstiff,unresponsivemountainorhikingboots.Throughtrialanderror,climbersfinallyfiguredoutthatthesofterrubbersolesofbasketballshoesworkedmuchbetter,thoughtheirextremeflexibilitycausedproblemsonsteepfaceclimbs.Thefirstshoesdesignedspecificallyforrockclimbingincorporatedsmoothrubbersolesforhighfriction,astiffforefootforsecurestancesonsmallrockedges,andlightweightmaterialstosaveweight.Thespecializedrockshoedesigncameintoitsowninthe1980swiththedevelopmentofaspecialrubberforthesolesandrands(thesidesoftheshoes).This"sticky"rubberenabledclimberstostandontiny,roundedcrystalsaswellaswaferthinedges.
Justoveradecadeago,therewereperhapstwoorthreebrandsofrockshoefromwhichtochoose.Today,thereareallroundstylesthatperformwellonalltypesofrockandterrainaswellasexoticspecialtyshoesdesignedforveryspecifictypesofclimbing.Amagazinerecentlyreviewedover40differentrockshoemodelsthatrangedinpricefromaround$90toover$140.Becausevirtuallyallmodernrockshoeshavestickyrobbersoles,themostimportantconsiderationswhenmakingachoicearefitandthebalancebetweenstiffnessandflexibility.
Althoughyoucangetrockshoesthroughoutdoorequipmentmailordercompanies,itisbesttoactuallytryonvariousmodels.Storesthatcarryrockclimbinggear,andindoorclimbinggymsinparticular,oftenrentshoesthatyoucantryout.Watchfor"demo"festivalswhereseveralcompaniesprovideshoesforyoutotest.
FittingaShoe
Wearingrockshoeshasbeendescribedasthe"agonyofdefeet."Contemporaryshoedesignshaveeliminatedpainandfootinjuryasthepriceyoupay
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forashoethatperformswell.Still,youwanttoensurethatyourfootwillnotsliporrotateinsideoftheshoeandthattherearenoairpockets,particularlyintheforefootarea,thatcancollapseandbendwhenyoutransferyourweighttothefoot.Thus,asnugfitremainsessential.
Generally,youwillwearasizeortwosmallerthanyourstreetshoes.Theactualfitforagivensizevariesconsiderablyamongshoemanufacturers,andevenamongstylesofferedbythesamesupplier.Again,itisveryimportantforyoutotryseveralsizesandmodelsforthebestfit.Someclimberswearalightweightlinersock,butmostweartheirshoesoverbarefeettoensureasensitivefeelfortherocktexture.Whateveryourpreference,theshoemustfit.
Youcanexpectallrockshoestostretchabit.Linedshoeswillstretchlessandfeeltightlongerhowever,theymayofferlesssensitivityonsubtlerocktextures.Unlinedshoeswillshapetoyourfootandinitiallyprovidecomfortable,preciseperformance,butmaystretchseveralsizeswithuse.Newer,unlinedmodelsusespecialstitchingpatternstolessenstretchwithoutsacrificingflexibility.
StiffnessversusFlexibility
Therightbalanceofstiffnessandflexibilitylargelydependsonthetypeofrockandterrainoverwhichyouwillbeclimbing.Astiffershoeperformswellincontinuouscracksandonsteepfaceclimbsthatrequireedgingthesolesonsmall,sharpfeatures.Oncetheseshoesaresetandweightedonsmallrockedges,thestiffsoleprovidesavirtualledgetostandon.Ontheotherhand,verystiffshoesofferlittleadvantageonlowerangledfrictionclimbswheremaximizingthecontactareabetweenrubberandrockisimportant.
Whencontactareaandtheabilityto"grab"holdsiscritical,aflexibleshoewillprovidesuperiorperformance.Manyoftheverydifficultmodernsportclimbs,andindoorclimbingwallsinparticular,requireaflexibleshoethatallowsyoutofeelandadjusttosubtlefeaturesinthesurface.
Arockshoeshouldhaveafairamountofrobberextendingaroundthetoeandalongtherandsoftheshoe.Stickyrobberrandsareessentialforcrackclimbingwheretheshoewillbewedgedor"jammed"inthecrackduringmoves.
TheclimberwhowantstoenjoythesteepcracksofYosemite,thesmoothfrictionofStoneMountain,andthesharp,crystaledgesoftheRushmoreNeedlesbyusingasinglepairofrockshoesmightconsideramoderatelystiffallroundmodelforthatinitialpurchase.
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Differenttypesofrockshoes(lefttoright):allpurposeshoe,structurededgingshoe,unstructuredflexibleshoe,lightweightslipper.
Allrockshoeswilleventuallybreakdowninstructureorstretchandbecomesloppy.Oncethecorrectfitislost,performancewilldiminish.Propercareandattentiontowearonthesolesandrands,however,shouldenableyoutouseashoefortwotothreeyears.
CaringforYourShoes
Minimizewearonthesoftsolesbylimitingwalkingandstandinginyourshoes.Ifyoumustkeepthemonwhileyouarenotclimbing,wearalargesockovertheentireshoe.
Protectthesolesfromexcessivedirtandanyoilyresidues.Anoccasionallightbrushingwithabrasssuedebrushcanhelprestore''stickiness"totherubbersurface.
Allowshoestodryoutthoroughlybetweenusestopreventrottingofthestitching.
Resoleyourshoesbeforetherandsaredamaged.Haftsolescanbeputonforasmallfractionofthecostofshoereplacement,butbesuretohaveanexperiencedrockshoecobblerdothejob.Resolingservicesadvertiseinallofthemountaineeringandrockclimbingspecialtymagazines.
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Chalk
Byminimizingtheeffectsofhandandfingersweat,gymnasticchalk(magnesiumcarbonate)canincreaseyourabilitytogripholds.Chalkistypicallycarriedinahandsizedchalkbag,whichiseitherclippedtotheclimbingharnessortiedaroundthewaistonacord.Youcangetachalkbagforaround$12to$15,andablockofchalkforjustover$1fromstoresthatcarryclimbinggear.
Althoughmostclimbersusechalk,itdoespresentaproblemfromanecologicalstandpoint.Thenaturalbeautyofmanyrockcragsandformationshasbeenmarredbycountlesswhitedotsleftfromthechalkedhandsofclimbers.Theuseofchalkhassometimesbeencharacterizedasaformoflittering.Inmostcaseschalkwillwashoffinthenextrainhowever,onheavilyusedroutesandunderoverhangsandroofs,itmayremainforgenerations.Theimpactofchalkmaybeminimizedthroughconservativeuseandperiodiccleaningoftherockbyconcernedclimbers.Alwayscheckwithlocalclimbersorrecreationareamanagersconcerninganarea'sunwrittenethicorestablishedrulesconcerningtheuseofchalk.
ChoosingaClimbingHarness
WhenIbeganclimbing,Iwouldsimplywraptheropearoundmywaistandsecureitwithabowlineknotbackedupwithacoupleofoverhands.Simple,yes,buttofallmeantapainfulconstrictionandnearsuffocationastheroperodeupovermylowerribs.Isoonswitchedtoa"swamibelt,"madebywrappingstrong,tubularnylonwebbingaroundmywaistseveraltimesandtighteningitwithawaterknot.Theropewasthentiedaroundtheswamibeltandsecuredwithafigure8followthroughknot.Thiswasaslightimprovement,butmywaiststillabsorbedalloftheforceofafall.Asaresult,Istucktoeasierroutestoavoidfalling,andconsequentlylimitedmyprogressandskilldevelopment.
Awidearrayofcommercialclimbingharnessesarenowavailablethatarecomfortable,lightweight,andstrong.TheUnionInternationaledesAssociationsD'Alpinisme(UIAA)hassetstrengthstandardsforclimbingharnesses,andallmainbrandcommercialharnessesmeetorexceedthesestandards.Harnessdesignsareavailablethatarespecificallytailoredformen,women,orchildren.Theharnessmustfitsnuglyaroundyourwaistatthetopofthehipbones,andthewaistbeltmustbelongenoughforyoutodoubleitbackthroughthebucklesystem.Becausevariousmodelsandstylesmayhavesubtlefitdifferences,tryseveralonbeforemakingyourfinalpurchase.
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HARNESSFEATURES
Thepriceofaharnessgenerallyreflectstheparticulararrayoffeaturesitoffers.Pricesrangefrom$35to$80.
1.Theharnessweightwillnotusuallyaffectitsoverallstrengthmuchandmayseemtrivialbecauseallharnessesarerelativelylightweight.However,alighterharnessmaybecriticalforsuccessonthemostseveresportclimbingroutes.Generally,thelightertheharness,thegreaterthecost.
2.Forsummerclimbinginshortsortights,astandard,nonadjustableharnessisthemosteconomicalchoice.However,adjustablelegloopsmaybeusefulifyouclimbincolderweatherwithmoreclothingorsharetheharnesswithafriendofdifferentproportions.
3.Easeofuseismorethanaconvenienceinstressfulsituationswherecomplexitycanleadtoerrorandpotentialaccidents.Aqualityharnessshouldoperatesimplyandbeeasytowearandremove.
4.Theavailabilityofattachedgearloopsprovidesaneasywaytotransportanchordevicesandothersmallequipment.
SAFETYTIPProperuseofyourharnessisessentialforsafety.Harnessesdifferinhowtheyaresecuredontheclimber,butmostinvolveadoublepassbucklethroughwhichthewaistbeltwebbingmustbedoubledback.Checkyourbucklesystem(andyourpartner's!)beforeyoubeginaclimbandfrequentlythroughouttheday.Harnessesalsodifferinthepropermethodoftyingintotherope,sobesuretogetspecificinstructionsconcerningyourharness.Protectyourharnessfromchemicalsthatdamagenylonandfromunnecessaryabrasion.Inspectyourharnessfrequentlyfordamageandabradedstitching,andretireitwhenyouhavedoubts.
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SelectingaRope
ThenaturalprogressionfromboulderingistechnicalClass5climbingwitharope.Whenyouaretryingwildmovesandpushingyourlimits,fallsaretobeexpected,sodon'tskimponyourmainlineofprotectiontherope.Fortunately,modern,dynamicclimbingropes,testedandapprovedbytheUIAA,donotbreakundernormaluse.Ontheotherhand,ropescanbecutbyfallingrockorslicedbybeingstressedoverasharpedgeofrock.Improperusealwaysinvitesdisaster,solearnthecorrectprocedureswithyourlifeline.
Climbingropeshaveevolvedfromstrandsofnaturalmanilafibers,whichwerequestionableatholdingfalls,totoday'sstrong,nylonkernmantle(coreandsheath)ropes.Theusualdimensionsofkernmantleropesare50meters(1meter=3.28feet)inlengthby10to11millimeters(1millimeter=0.39inches)indiameter.Normally,youshouldavoidshorterropesbecausemanyestablishedclimbingroutesassumethattheclimberisusingaropeofatleast50meters.Onleadclimbsitcanbeunnervingtorunoutofropebeforethenextanchors.Someropesarespeciallydesignedtobeuseddoubledtheyrangefrom8.5to9.0millimetersindiameter.
Thespecificqualitiesofnoteformodernropesincludethenumberoftestfallsheld,impactforce,staticandimpactforceelongation,weight,andwaterrepellency.Ropemanufacturerswillincludethisinformationonatagattachedtoallnewropes.Dependingontherope'sspecificcharacteristics,pricesnormallyrangefrom$130to$180per50meterrope.
CharacteristicsandRatingsofClimbingRope
TheUIAAtestsandratesdynamicropesforuseasasingleropeorasdoubleropes(tworopesusedtogether).TheprincipleUIAAtestinvolvesaworstcasescenariofalltesttodeterminethenumberof5meterfallsofan80kilogram(1kilogram=2.205pounds)weightthata2.8metersectionofropecanwithstandbeforebreaking.Mostsingleropeswillaveragebetween5and12fallsinthisseveretest.Aropemustsurviveaminimumof5fallstoearnUIAAapproval.Impactforce,ortheexpectedforceontheclimberandanyanchors,isalsomeasuredduringthestandardfalltestandmustnotexceed11.8kiloNewtons(kN),or2,650pounds(1kiloNewton=224.8pounds).
TheUIAAstatictensiontestdeterminesthedegreeorpercentageofstretchovera1metersectionofropeunderan80kilogramload.Singleropesmustnotstretchmorethan8percent,andanapproveddoubleropemustnotstretchgreaterthan10percent.Thedynamicstretchbuiltintoclimbingropesreducestheimpactforcesontheclimberandanchorsystem,
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butalsoincreasestheoveralldistanceofagivenfallandthechanceofhittingsomethingonthewaydown.Thus,theUIAAstandardsprovideareasonablecompromise.
ItshouldbenotedthattheseUIAAratingsarefordynamicropesspecificallydesignedforrockclimbing.Ropesareavailablethatpossessstrongstaticqualities(verylittlestretchunderforce),butthesecanresultinseverestressloadsonafallenclimberandontheanchorsystem.Staticropesareusuallyusedforrappellingandasfixedlinesfordescendingintoandascendingoutofcaves.Usually,itisbesttoavoidstaticropesfortechnicalrockclimbingapplications.
Ropeweightsdependondiameterandspecificconstructiondesigns,averagingbetween65and80grams(1gram=.035ounces)permeterfor10to11millimetersingleropes.Ropesdesignedforuseindoubleropesystemsarelighter,at45and55gramspermeterhowever,tworopesarerequired.
Youcanusuallypurchaseropeswithorwithoutawaterrepellentcoating.Ropestreatedforwaterrepellencyarecalleddryropes.Suchtreatmentreducestherope'stendencytosoakupwaterthatotherwisewouldincreasetherope'sweightanddecreaseitsstrength.Somefeelthatthewaterrepellenttreatmentimprovestherope'sresistancetoabrasionaswell.Iftheaddedcostandweightcanbetolerated,mostclimberspreferdryropes.
RetiringaRope
Noonereallyknowsexactlyhowlongaropeshouldlast,andthecoreoftheropemaybedamagedwithoutanyvisibleprobleminthesheath.Ingeneral,mostclimberswillretirearopeafterfouryearsregardlessoffrequencyofuse.However,ifyouuseyourropeonmostweekends,perhapstwoyearsismoreacceptable,whileextensiveusemayrequiremorerapidturnover.Exposuretoasevere,longfalljustifiesimmediateretirementoftherope.Keepinmindthattopropefalls,asopposedtofallswhileleading,aremuchlessstressfulontheropebecausetheoverallfalldistancesareusuallyquiteshorter.
StackingandCoilingtheRope
Whenyoupulltheropefromyourpack,lookaroundforagoodlocationtoplaceit.Avoidtossingtheropeintothedirtorotherdebris.Specialropebagsareavailablethatopenoutintoagroundclothonwhichtolayouttherope,althoughajacketorstuffsackworksjustaswell.
Mostclimberswilltransportandstoretheirropeinacoil.However,wheninuse,theropetendstotanglelesswhenrandomlystacked.Layoutoneend
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oftheropetothesidesothatitwillbeeasytofind,thenstacktheropeinaneatbutrandompile.
Whenyouwanttomovetoanotherrouteyouwillneedtoneatlycoiltherope.Thereareseveraleffectivemethodsofcoiling,butmostclimbersusesomevariationofthebutterflycoil.Toexecutethiscoil,matchthetwoendsoftheropeandpullthroughaboutthreedoublearmlengthsofropetoleavefree.Nowbeginpullingthroughdoublearmlengthsandlayingthesebutterflywingsoveralternatesidesofoneopenhand.Whenyougettothedoubledendoftherope,splitthedifferenceacrossyourhand.Wrapthefreeendsseveraltimesaroundthecoilbelowyourhandthenpushabight,orbend,oftheremainingropethroughtheeyeletformedbythewraps.Threadthedoubledfreeendsthroughthisbighttosecurethewraps,andtheropeisreadyforstorage.
Youcanrigthebutterflycoiltocarryonyourbackbylayingeachfreeendoverashoulder,thenwrappingthembackacrosstheropecoilsandyourwaist.Securethefreeendsinfrontwithasquareknot,andyouarereadytoscramble.
TakingCareofYourRope
Onceyouhavepurchasedanewrope,properuseandcareisessentialtoensuremanyhoursofsafeclimbing:
Protectyourropefromdirtandotherdebrisasmuchaspossible.Nevertossyourropeintothedirtatthebaseofthecrag.Useagroundcloth,pack,orjackettostacktheropeon.Also,avoidsteppingontherope,asthiscangrindsharpparticlesofsandanddirtthroughthesheathandintothecore.
Minimizeexposureofyourropetoexcessiveheatandthesun'sultravioletrays.Considerstoringyourropeinastuffsackorcustomropebagwhennotinuse.
Avoidexposingtheropetoanysubstancethatisharmfultonylon,includingcertainsolventsandcorrosiveproducts.
Donotlendoutyourrope.Whowilltreatitwiththesamecareasyoudo?Forthesamereason,neverpurchaseausedrope.
Inspectyourropefrequentlyforvisibledamage.Remember,though,thatthecoremaybedamagedwithoutanyvisibleevidence.Whenindoubt,retiretherope.
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TyingInTheFigure8FollowthroughKnot
Thestandardknotusedtoconnecttheropetoyourharness,aprocedurecalledtyingin,isthefigure8followthrough.Thisisasolidknotthatbecomestighterwhenforceloaded,yetcanbeuntiedreasonablyeasilywhenyouwish.Afigure8knotisfirstputintotheropeaboutthreefeetfromtheend.Thefreeendisthenthreadedthroughtheharness(checkyourharnessdesign,astheproperwaytothreaddiffersamongmodels)andthefigure8rewoven,orfollowedthrough,untiltheendexitstheknotinadirectionawayfromyourharness.Youmustleaveatleastthreeinchesoftailtopreventtheendaccidentallyslippingpartwaythroughtheknotinafall.Checkyourtieinknotoftenduringaclimbingouting.
Howtotiethefigure8followthroughknot.Alwaysleaveatleasta7.5centimeter(3inch)tailwhentheknotispulledtight.
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ConnectingtheAnchorSystem
TechnicalClass5climbingalwaysinvolvesoneormoreanchorsystemsthatsecuretheropeandclimberstotherockorground.Whethertheanchorsaresturdynaturalfeaturessuchastreesandboulders,orsometypeofartificialanchordevice(discussedlaterinthischapter),theconnectiontotheclimbersandropemustbestrongandeasilyused.Anchorsusuallyareextendedbynylonwebbingloops(runners),andeventuallyconnectedtotheclimber'sharnessortotheropeusingmetalsnaplinks(carabiners).
Runners
Oneinchtubularnylonwebbingisthemainstayformakingrunners(sometimescalledslings),althoughwidthsof14.3millimetersand17.5millimetersareavailableaswell.A1.7meterlengthofwebbingisnormallytiedintoaloopusingawaterknotforastandardlength,orsingle,runnerwhile2.9metersaretiedtomakealong,ordouble,runner.Intopropeclimbing,wheretreeandboulderanchorsmaybeseveralfeetbackfromthecliffedge,longerlengthsof6to9metersareoftenconvenient.
Oneinchtubularnylonwebbingisbothstrongover1,800kilogramsbreakingforceandinexpensiveatapproximately$1.00permeter.Youcanalsopurchaserunnerspresewnwithbartacks,whichprovidegreaterstrengthandlessbulkthanknottedrunners.Ofcourse,sewnrunnersareabitmoreexpensiveanddonotprovidetheversatilityofchangeablelengththattiedrunnersdo.
AnewerandstrongerfibernowavailableforsewnrunnersisSpectra,whichis,poundforpound,about10timesasstrongassteel.Spectrarunnersareavailableina15.8millimeterwidthandarealwayspresewnbecauseSpectradoesnotholdknotswell.Spectraismoreexpensivethantubularnylonandmustbeprotectedfromheatduetoitslow(300degreeFahrenheit)meltingpoint.
JoiningTwoEndsofWebbingorCord/Rope
Thewaterknotisusedtojointheendsofastrandofwebbingtoformalooporrunner.Beginwithabasicoverhandknot,thenfollowtheoverhandbackthroughwiththeotherendofwebbing.Pulltheknottogethertightlyandleaveatleast7.5centimetersforeachtail.Remember,neverattempttotieSpectrawithaknotitwillslipeasilyandcomeundoneunderlowforces.
Thegrapevineknotismoreappropriateforroundmateriallikecordandrope.Oncetied,settheknottightly.Aswiththewaterknot,7.5centimetertailsshouldbeleftinthefreeends.
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Howtotiethewaterknotinflatwebbing.
Howtotiethegrapevineknotincordorrope.
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Carabiners
Beforeyoubegintechnicalrockclimbing,youwillneedtoobtainaselectionofcarabiners.Thesealuminumalloysnaplinksareusedtoconnectthevariouscomponentsoftheclimbingsystem.Carabinersaredesignedwithaspringloadedgatewhichcanbeopenedtoaccepttherope,webbingloops,oranchorconnections.InordertoobtainUIAAapproval,acarabinerdesignmusttesttoaminimumbreakingstrengthof19.5kiloNewtonsalongthespine,orsolidside,and4.0kiloNewtonsalongthegatedside.Most"biners"willberatedwellabovetheseminimumvalues.
Carabinersareavailableinthreebasicdesignsbasedontheiroverallshape.Ovalsaresymmetrical,withthepointofmaximumlengthmidwaybetweenthespinesideandthegatedside.Thesebinersareveryversatileandenablepositioningwiththegateupordown.Dshapedbinersarelongeralongthespinesidethanthegatedside.Thisresultsinforcesbeingdirectedmorealongthespinesideandastrongerdesignperweightunitthantheoval.Thus,aslightlylighterDbinercanbeseveralhundredkilogramsstronger
Carabiners(clockwisefromtop):Standardoval,standardD,asymmetricalD,bentgateD,lockingD,HMS.
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thanastandardoval.Asymmetrical,oroffsetDcarabiners,arewideratthegateopeningendtoenableeasierclippingoftheropewithoutsacrificingthestrengthadvantageoftheDshape.AmodifiedasymmetricalDbiner,popularforleadingsportclimbs,isthebentgateD.Thebentshapeofthegateonthesebinersprovidesalargergateopening,whichmakesclippingtheropeeasier.
ManyofthestandardD,andlargerasymmetricalD,carabinersareavailablewithgatelockingsleeves.Theselockingbinersprovideanincreasedmarginofsafetyinsituationswherethegatemaybeaccidentallybumpedopen.Lockingbinersareavailableinscrewgatedesigns,wherethegatesleevemustbescrewedmanuallyintoplace,andintwistlockdesigns,wherethesleeveisspringloadedandsnapsintothelockedconfigurationuponrelease.
Oneusefulmodifiedlockingcarabineristhepearshaped,orHMS,biner.Theselarge,offsetlockingDbinersacceptalargevolumeofclippedmaterialsandusuallyareusedinaspecialropebelaytechniquecalledtheMunterHitch.
ATAGLANCE:CARABINERS
Design Advantages Disadvantages Price*
Standardoval Versatileallpurposedesign.Lowcost.
Lowerstrengthtoweightratio.
$4.50$5.50
StandardD Goodallrounduse.Strongerthanstandardoval.
Lessversatilethanovalsinsomesituations.
$5.00$6.00
AsymmetricalD Verylightweight,whileretainingstrengthoftheDshape.Easytoclipandunclip.
Normallymustbeorientedwiththegatedownward.CanunclipeasierthanstandardovalorD.Expensive.
$7.00$13.00
BentgateD SameasasymmetricalDpluslargergateopeningeasiertoclip.Mainstayforsportclimbing.
SameasasymmetricalD.Shouldonlybeusedfortheropeendofconnections.
$7.00$13.00
Locking(variousdesigns)
Locksystempreventsaccidentalopeningofgate.IncreasedstrengthMainstayforbelayandtopropeanchors.
Heavyandcostlyforstandardoveralluse.Specialdesignsareexpensive.
$7.00$20.00
*PricesinU.S.dollars.
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SAFETYTIPThegateistheweakestlinkinallcarabiners.Avoidsetupsthatputpressuresidewaysacrossthebinerandontothegate.Acarabiner'sstrengthisreducedbymorethan50percentwhenthegateisopen,somakesureyourbinerssnapclosedeasilyandcompletelywhenreleased.
BelayDevices
Thesetupandtechniquesofmanagingaclimber'sropeandcatchingfallsiscalledthebelay.Iremembermyfirstbelaylesson.Iwasclippedintoananchoratthetopofa12meterquartzcragwiththeropewrappedaroundmywaistforfrictionandthefreeendgraspedinmyglovedhand,readyto
Belaydevices(lefttoright):ATCplate,StichtPlate,Figure8ring,MunterHitch.
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increasethebodywrapwhentheclimberfell.Andfallhedid,all200poundsofhim.SomehowIhungontotheropewithvicelikefingersasitpainfullytightenedaroundmywaistandmybreathingtemporarilystopped.Thiswasthebodybelayexperience,agoodskilltoknowforemergencies,butIwasencouragedtoquicklyplaceanorderforamechanicalbelaydevice.
Belaydevicesincreasethefrictionontheropeduringafall,whichenablesthebelayertocontroltheforcegeneratedbythefall.MostbelaydevicesaremodificationsoftheslottedStichtPlateinventedinGermanyinthe1970s,throughwhichabendofropeispassedandtheloopclippedintoalockingcarabiner.Thesystemisthenclippedtothefrontofthebelayer'sharness.Mechanicalbelayplatesmakeholdingtheropeduringfallsrelativelyeasyandhaveeliminatedthefrictionburnscommonwiththebodybelay.
Severalbelaydevicedesignsareavailable.ModificationsoftheoriginalStichtPlatedesignprovideexcellentfrictionyetresistlockingupagainsttherope.Figure8belaydevicesallowforsmoothropemanagement,butmanyprovidelessfrictionthanaplatedesign.Pricesaveragearound$13to$15foreitherdesign.
Thereareacoupleofspecializedbelaydevicesavailablethatsecuretheropeduringafallevenifthebelayer'sbrakehandisofftherope.Suchautolockingbelaydevicesassurethatabelayerwillnot''drop"afallenclimber.Theseare,however,aboutfourtimesasexpensiveasabasicbelaydevice,andshouldnotberelieduponassubstitutesforaknowledgeableandexperiencedbelayer.
Manybelaydeviceswillalsoworkasafrictionmechanismforrappellingbacktothegroundafteranascent.Forthoselongormultiplerappels,itiswisetoacquireafigure8descender($11$15),whichwillbettertoleratetheheatbuildupfromfriction.
ArtificialAnchors
Anchorsareusedinavarietyofcircumstancesinrockclimbing,andmustalwaysbestrongandsecure.Someofthebestanchorsareestablishedbytyingoffnaturalfeaturessuchastrees,largeblocksofrock,chockstones,orrockhorns.Whennaturalfeaturesareunavailable,artificialanchordevicesareused.Artificialanchorsaredesignedtofitintocracksorpocketsintherockandareavailableinavarietyofmodels.
Asmallselectionofartificialanchorswillsufficeformosttopropingsituations.However,traditionalleadclimbingdemandsadditionalpiecesandawiderrangeofdesigns.Sportstyleclimbingrequiresonlyaquickdrawashortrunnerwithtwocarabinerstoclipintoeachfixedboltanchoralongtheroute.Still,itmaybewisetopurchaseafewanchorstobackuporsupplementthefixedanchorsonsomesportroutes.
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Nuts,Hexcentrics,andTriCams
Themostbasicdesignforanartificialanchordeviceisataperedmetalwedgecalledthenutorchock.Thenutisplacedaboveorbehindaconstrictioninacrackintherockwhich,ifallgoeswell,willpreventitfrompullingout.Mostnutsaretaperedintwodimensions,whichenablesthepiecetofittwosizesofcrack.
Someoldernutshaveholesthroughwhichaloopof5to8millimeterperlon(nylon)cordisthreadedandtiedwithagrapevineknottoprovideacarabinerclipinloop.Mostmodernnuts,however,areswagedonstrongsteelcablesthatprovidetheclipinloops.Nutsrangefromapproximately7/4millimetersto38/28millimetersforheight/widthsizesandwithstanddynamicforcesfrom2.5toover10.0kiloNewtons.Pricesforwirednutsrangefromabout$6to$8dependingonthesize.
Hexcentricsaresixsidedaluminumalloychocksthatcanfitfourdifferentcracksizeseach.Thesmallesthexcentricscomewiredhowever,mostarethreadedwithKevlar,Spectra,orthenewerGeminicord,whichistiedwithagrapevineknottosecureaclipinloop.Unwiredhexcentricsarenotratedforstrengthbecausethetypeofcordandknotusedfortheclipinslingdeterminestheweakestpoint.Givenastrong,welltiedcord,hexcentricsareoneofthestrongestformsofartificialprotectionavailable.Hexcentricpriceswillrangefrom$6to$9each,butthecostofthecordfortheclipinslingmustbeadded.
AhybridbetweennutsandhexcentricsistheTriCam,madebyLoweAlpine.TriCamslookabitlikenuts,andmaybewedgedassuch,yettheiruniqueshapeenablesthemtofitunusualcontoursintherock.Thebigadvantageofthisdesignistheroundedshapethattendstorotateandwedgetighter,orcam,inacrackwhenforceloaded.Whentheclipinslingiswrappedbetweenthetwospinerailsandthepieceissetwithastrongtug,theforceofafallwillresultinincreasedpressureoftheTriCamagainsttherock.WhilelearningtoplaceTriCamscorrectlymaytakepatientpractice,theyareverystrongat8.420.4kiloNewtonsdependingonthesize.Elevensizesareavailable,ranginginpricefrom$13to$39each.
Nutsandhexcentricsarerelativelylightweightandinexpensiveasartificialanchorsgo.Aselectionof8to10nutsandhexcentricsofvarioussizeswilllikelysufficeforallofyourtopropeclimbingneeds.Ifyouplantoleadupsometraditionallyprotectedroutes,alargerselectionwillprovidemoreversatilityandthenecessaryextrapiecesforintermediateanchors.Ifyourbudgetallows,TriCamsmakeamoreversatilesubstituteforhexcentrics.
SpringLoadedCammingDevices(SLCDs)
Thefirstactivecamminganchorsappearedinthelate1970sandwerecalledFriends.Theseunusuallookingdevicesinvolvedfourkidneyshaped
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cammingunitsspringmountedtoasingleaxleandrigidstem.Acableandtriggermechanismallowedonetoeasilycontractthecamsforplacementinacrack,whilereleaseofthetriggerwouldfreethespringmechanismtoexpandthecamsagainsttherock.Thiswouldholdthepieceinpositioneveninparallelsidedandflaringcracks.Aclipinslingtiedthroughaholeinthestemenabledattachmentoftheropeviacarabiner.Theshapeofthecamsresultedinawideningoftheunitandincreasedfrictionifaforcewasappliedthroughtheclipinsling.
Thesemiracleanchorsenabledrapidplacementandsecurityincrackswherenothingelsewouldwork.Withthisversatility,anabilitytofitawiderangeofcracksizes,andhighstrength,itiseasytoseewhyaSLCDistrulytheclimber'sfriend!
Today,SLCDscomeinseveraldesigns.Mostmanufacturershavereplacedtherigidstemwithflexiblesteelcablethatcanconformtorockedgesinsteadofriskingbreakagefromlateralforces.SomeSLCDshaveonlythreecamstoprovideanarrowerprofileforsmallcrackfeatures.OnemodelemploysadoubleaxledesignthatenablestheSLCDtofitawiderrangeofcracksizesandprovidessecurityasapassiveanchorevenwiththecamsfullyextended.
Allofthisconvenienceandversatilitydoesnotcomecheap,however.SLCDpricesrangefrom$45tojustunder$70peranchor.Afullwidthrangeofabout1870millimeterswillrequirefourtosevenunits.
Artificialanchors(clockwisefrombottom):wirednuts,wiredhexcentrics,TriCams,SLCDs.
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Quickdraws
Sportroutesareusuallyprotectedbypermanentlyfixedanchors.Onthemoremodernroutes,themostcommonfixedanchorisa9.5millimeterboltthatissetintoadrilledholeintherockandequippedwithahangerthatacceptsacarabiner.Allyouneedtoattachtheropetotheseanchorsisaselectionofquickdraws.
Choosefromthemanytypesofquickdrawstoattachyourropetotheanchor.
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Aquickdrawconsistsofashortloopofsewnwebbing,usually14.3millimeternylonor15.8millimeterSpectra,intowhichtwocarabinersareclipped.AstandardorasymmetricalDbinerisusedfortheclipintothebolt,whileabentgateasymmetricalDisconvenientfortheropeclipendofthequickdraw.Thestrengthratingsofsewnquickdrawrunnersvary,butareusuallyover20kiloNewtons.
Pricesforquickdrawslings,ranginginlengthfrom127203millimetersbinertobiner,are$2.50to$3.50.Youwillbeabletodomostboltedsportclimbswith8to10quickdrawshowever,longerroutesmayrequire12ormore.
GearRackSling
Thecollectionofcarabinersandartificialanchorgearthatyouwillhaularoundiscalledtherack.Youcanclipeverythingintoastandardrunnerloopedoveryourshoulder,butapaddedgearracksling($12$15)willbemorecomfortable.
Someclimbersprefertoclipgeartoloopsthatareavailableonmostclimbingharnesseshowever,spacemaybecomelimitedforthegearnecessaryforlonger,traditionalleadclimbs.Assportroutesrequireonlyquickdraws,theseharnessgearloopsarequiteadequate.
ProtectionMaintenance
Spendsometimepracticingplacementofartificialanchors.Thiswillhelpyoudevelopan"eye"forthecorrectsizeofanchorforagivencrack.
Inspectyourprotectionoftentocheckfordamage,especiallyfraysinthewireorcordclipinslings.
Whenthetriggermechanismonaspringloadedcammingdevicebecomessticky,washthepiecewithsoapandwater,rinsethoroughly,andlubricatetheaxlewithalightsprayofTeflon(nonoily)lubricant.
Retireanyartificialanchorthatsustainsasevereleaderfall.
Helmets
Ifyouthumbthroughoneofthecurrentrockclimbingmagazinesorvisitanestablishedclimbingarea,youwillnotlikelyseemanyclimberswearinghelmets.Climbersstatemanyreasonsforthislackofheadprotection:
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helmetsaretoohottheyobstructvisionoftherouteaheadtheyconstrainthefreedomofclimbingtheyarenot"instyle."Thefactremains,however,thatmanyseriousclimbingrelatedinjuriescouldhavebeenprevented,ortheirseveritylessened,hadthepersonwornahelmet.
Ahelmetmayprotectyourheadfromfallingrockandotherdebris,aswellascushionitduringtumblingfalls.Whileestablishedcragsareusuallyfreeoflooserock,thechangingnatureofthemediumurgescaution.Ifyou
GEARINGUPTOCLIMB
Gearitems Price*Bouldering: Rockshoes $125.00
Chalkbagandchalk $15.00
Total=$140.00
Toproping: Boulderinggear($140.00)plus...
Harness $40.00
Rope(50mx11mm) $150.00
NylonwebbingAbout21metersinassortedlengths
$21.00
Standardcarabiners(6) $30.00
Lockingcarabiners(2) $15.00
Belaydevice $14.50
Stoppers/hexcentrics10inassortedsizes
$75.00
Nutpick $6.50
Helmet $50.00
Pack $40.00
Total=$582.00
Leadclimbingtraditionalstyle:
Allgearlistedfortoproping($582.00)plus...
Set(45)ofsmallerwiredstoppers $35.00
Setofspringloadedcammingdevices6to8from1.5to7.5centimeters
$350.00
Standardcarabiners(25) $100.00
Largelockingcarabiner $16.00
Standardnylonrunners(8) $25.00
Longrunner(1) $8.00
Quickdrawslings(6) $20.00
Gearracksling $18.00
Total=$1154.00
sportstyle: Shoes,chalkbag,harness,rope,belaydevice,2lockingcarabiners($359.50)plus...
StandardDcarabiners(1014) $60.00
Bentgatecarabiners(1014) $90.00
Quickdrawslings(1014) $36.00
Standardnylonrunners(23) $12.00
Total=$557.50
*PricesinU.S.dollars.Allamountsareestimatedaveragesformediumpriceditems.
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progresstoalpinerockclimbingandmountaineering,wherefallingrockandicearerealprobabilities,useofahelmetisthenorm.Ihaveappreciatedmyhelmetonoccasionwhen,asIconcentratedonfootwork,Iconkedmyheadunderanoverhang.
Whenshoppingforahelmet,compareonlythosemodelsthatareapprovedforrockclimbingbytheUIAA.Makesurethefitisappropriate.Mosthelmetshaveadjustablesuspensionsystemstoaccommodateavarietyofheadcoverings,asweatherdictates.
AFinalNoteonSafeEquipment
Failureofequipmentinrockclimbingpresentsadifferentsetofproblemsthaninotherrecreationalactivities.Blowingatirewhilecyclingisaninconvenienceandcoststimetorepair.Fashioningareplacementforabrokencanoepaddleinmidstreamcanplaceastrainonyourcreativity.Inrockclimbing,however,mostequipmentfailureswillhaveimmediateconsequencesthataremorethaninconveniences.Yourchancesofrecoveringfromapulledanchor,brokencarabiner,orcutropeareminimaltonone.Whenyourlifeisontheline,equipmentsimplymustnotfail.Thesearethethreemostbasicsafetypointsregardingclimbingequipment:
SelectqualitygearapprovedforrockclimbingbytheUIAA.
Learnhowtouseeachitempracticebeforeyourlifedependsonit.
Takecareofyourclimbinggear.Retireanythingthatyouhavedoubtsabout.
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3RockClimbingCorrectly
Movementoverrockcombinesthephysicalcomponentsofbalance,flexibility,strength,andendurancewiththetaskofsequentialproblemsolving.Practiceandmasteryofafewbasicclimbingprincipleswillenableyoutoexploretherockanddevelopyourpersonalstyleandrepertoireofmoves.
Rockclimbingalsodemandspoiseanddiscipline.Thereisnothingquitelikebeinghighonawindycrag,movingsmoothlyfromproblemtoproblem,workingtherockandtheprotection.Timeontherockwillyieldadegreeofcomfortandsensitivitythatwillenableclimbingtobecomemuchlikeacreativedanceforyou.
Thischapterfirstreviewsthefundamentalclimbingtechniquesusedforvarioustypesofrockfeatures.Laterinthechapter,thetechnicalaspectsofropedclimbingareintroduced.Thetechniquesinvolvedinmovingoverrockarebestpracticedanddevelopedthroughbouldering,wherethe
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intricaciesofequipmentandinhibitionsarereduced.Sograbyourrockshoesandaspotter,andtryoutsomemovesontheboulders!
THEFOURMOVEMENTPRINCIPLES
Maintainthreepointsofcontactwiththerockwheneverpossible.Thiswillmaximizeyourbalanceandstability,likeatripodsteadiesacamera.Oneasierclimbsthiswillbeasimplematterofmovingonefootorhandatatime.However,ondifficultroutes,somehandholdsorfootholdsmaybeabsent,andyouwillbeforcedtogetbywithlessthanthreepointcontact.
Balanceoveryourfeet.Sincethelegsarenormallystrongerthanthearms,youshouldpositionasmuchweightaspossibleoveryourfeet.Thiswillminimizetheforcesonyourarms.Lookaroundconstantlyforfootholds,andconcentrateonpositioningyourbodytomaximizeyourweightoveryourfeet.
Learntosenseyourweighttransferfromcontactpointtocontactpointduringmovements.Beginnerclimbersoftenspeakof"fightinggravity"alimitingmisconception.Learntousegravity.Itisthesourceoffrictionthatkeepsyouontherock.Asyoumove,yourweightistransferredfromholdtohold.Asyoulearntofeelthis,youwillbeabletoanticipatehowgravitywillpullyouontoorintothenexthold.Thus,youcanpositionyourhandorfootaccordingly.Thisanticipationwillenableyoutoplanaseriesofprecise,efficientmovementsthroughtheroute'scrux.
Learntorestwithoutcomingdown.Fatiguecausesclimberstobecome"pumped,"andmanyfallsresult.Learningtorestontherockwillhelpyouresistfatigueandenableyoutoclimblonger.Whenholdingastaticpositionontherock,seehowmuchyoucanrelaxyourgripwithoutcomingoff.Trydifferentbodypositionsandcombinationsofholdstofindthebestresteveryfewmoves.Avoidpullingonholdsduringrests.Instead,hangfromastraightarmwhileyoulowerandshakeouttheother.Keepbreathing.Climbingshouldbeasaerobicasyoucanmakeit.
SAFETYTIPAlthoughyouwillnotusuallygoveryhighduringbouldering,youdohitthegroundwhenyoucomeofftherock.Attentiontoafewpointscanmakeboulderingsafer.
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Clearawaylooserockanddebrisfromthelandingareabelowtherock.
Useanalertspottertohelpcontrolfallsandprotectyourheadandshoulders.
Iftheroutetakesyououtofyourspotter'sreach,setupatopropeanduseit.
FaceClimbing
Rockfacescomeinalltexturesandanglesanddemandthegreatestvarietyinhandandfootpositions.Thekeystosuccessonallbutthemostoverhangingfacesarebalanceandweighttransfer.Footworkandbodypositionarecritical.
UsingYourFeet
Footworkisthemostimportantaspectoffaceclimbing.Thetwobasicmethodsofstandingonfaceholdsaresmearingandedging.Therockwilldictatewhichtechniqueisbestforagivensituation.
Smearingismostcommonlyemployedonlowerangled,slabbyrockthatlacksdefiniteedgesorknobs.Thesoleoftheshoeatthebaseofthetoesis"smeared"ontoanindentation,roundedbump,orotherirregularity.Thismaximizesthesurfacecontactareabetweentheshoerubberandtherock.Weighttransferovertheplacedfootincreasesfrictionandholdingforce.
Smearingisalsousefulfortinymicroedgesonsteeperrock,asthesoleoftheshoeconformstotheedgecontours.Placeyourshoejustabovetheedge,thenallowittoslidedownandoverthehold.
Practicesmearingonavarietyofrocktexturesandangles.Lookforsubtleindentationsandfeaturesonwhichtotestvariousfootpositionsandbalancepoints.Remember,smearingworksbestwhenmostofyourweightispositionedoverthefoot.
Onsteepfaces,youwillneedtolookfordefinedholdsonwhichto"edge"theshoe.Edgingismostoftendonewiththeinsideofthefootatthebaseofthebigtoe.Thestrengthofthisareaofyourfootandtheinherentstiffnessofmodernrockshoesinthispartofthesoleprovidesurprisingsecurityonsharpholds.Someclimbingproblemsmaydictatethatyouedgewiththeoutsideofthefoot,justbackofthesmalltoe,orevenwiththepointofthetoeatechniquecalled"toeingin."Toeinginisimportantwhenclimbingpocketedsandstoneandlimestone,wherethelipofthepocketisusedasanedge.
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FaceClimbing
Onlowerangledslopes,commonlycalledslabs,youshouldstandfairlyverticalrelativetothepullofgravity.Thiswillpositionyourhipsawayfrom
therockandyourweightdirectlyoveryourfeet.Yourupperbodymayleanforwardabittoallowhandcontact
withtherock,butthetendencyto''hug"therockshouldberesisted.Leaningtoofarinwillpitchyourweightforwardof
yourfeetandleadtoslips
Astheterrainbecomessteeper,youwillneedtobringthehipsandupperbodyclosertotherockandthebalancepointoveryourfeetwillbecomefiner.Itis
importanttokeepthehandsnearthelevelofyourshouldersorheadduringsteepfaceclimbing,asanextremelyhighreach
willpullyouintotherocktoomuch.
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Occasionallyonverticalterrainyoucanleanawayfromthefaceusinggood,bomberhandholdstocreatecounterpressurebetweenyourfeetandthe
rock.Thisisparticularlyusefulwhenfootholdsaresparse.Makecertainthatyourhandholdsaresolid,and,because
thistechniqueisverystrenuous,movequicklytoamorebalancedstance.
Sustainedoverhangingrockwillpreventyoufrompositioningmuchofyourweightoveryourfeet.
Youmuststillworktomaintainfootcontact,however,toreducetheoverallloadonthearmsandprovideabaseforcounterpressure.Whennotmoving,hangonstraightarmstoplacemostoftheforceonyourskeletoninsteadof
themuscles.Thishelpsreducefatigue.
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Foottechniquesforfaceclimbing:smearing(top),edging(bottomleft),tocingin(bottomright).
Aswithsmearing,positioningyourbodycorrectlyandplacingyourweightoveryourfeetarecriticalforeffectiveedging.Bothsmearingandedgingrelyonthefrictioncreatedwhenyoutransferyourweightoverthefoot.Practicebothtechniquesonavarietyofterraintodiscoverhowsmallarockfeatureyoucanstandonwithoutslipping.
Onsteepandoverhangingrock,afootoccasionallywillbeusedlikeanextrahandtogetapartialgriponahold.Onesuchtechnique,calledheelhooking,involveskickinguporouttoahold,hookingitwiththeheeloftheshoe,andpullingwiththeleguntilahandholdcanbereached.
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Radicallysteepoverhangswilloftenrequireyouto"paw"aholdwiththefoot,justtokeepitontherockandtheweightofthelegoffthearms.Sincetherockistoosteepforyoutoplaceyourweightoverthefoot,youmustrelyonlegstrengthandcounterpressuretomaintainthenecessaryfriction.
Regardlessoftheterrain,learntoplaceyourfeetpreciselyonholds.Onceafootisset,avoidmovingitaboutontheholduntilyougointothenextmove.Ifyourlegbeginstoshakewhileholdingafootposition,aphenomenonknowntoclimbersas"sewingmachineleg,"loweryourheeltorelaxthelegmuscles.Preciseandefficientfootworkwilltakesomepracticetodevelop,butthatisthepurposeofbouldering.
UsingYourHands
Whileitmayseemthataviselikegripisessentialinclimbing,inmostsituationsthefingersaresimplyconfiguredtotheholdcontoursandthebodyispositionedtoenablegravitytopullthehandontotherock.Thelargermusclesoftheupperarmsandshoulders,combinedwiththeliftingactionofthelegs,arethenusedtopullthebodythroughthemove.
Theunderclinggrip(palmsup)ismoresecureasyoumoveyourfeethigher.
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TypesofGrips
OpenGripIntheopengrip,thehandconformsto
theholdcontoursfrictionfromthefingerpadssuppliespurchase.Someholdshavepositiveincut
edgesthatthefingersbendaroundlikeahook.Theopengripistheleastinjuryproducingholdbecausethefinger
tendonsareusuallysparedseverestress.
ClingGrip("crimper")Theclinggripisusedonflattoppededgesor
sharpmicroedges.Onlythefingertipscontacttherock,andthefirstknuckleishyperextendedtoresistcollapseof
thefingerunderpressure.Whenpossible,thethumbshouldbewrappedacrossthehyperextendedknucklesasabrace.Although
thisgripisverystrong,whenusedonsmallholdsforextrememoves("crimping")itmakesthefingersvulnerabletotendoninjury.Thefingertips
canalsobelacerated,orgiven''flappers,"bysharprockedges.
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WrapGripRoundedandknoblikeholdscanoftenbewrapped
bythefingersortheentirehand.Thisisoneofthemostsecuregripsduetothelargecontactsurfaceareaandgreater
muscleuse.Whenpossible,wrapsaredonewiththeouteredge(the"pinkie"side)ofthehandagainsttherock.
Thisusuallyallowsamorebalancedbodyposition.
PinchGripWhenthereisnoholdedgethatgravitycan
pullyourhandinto,youwillneedtousemuscleasthesourceofholdingforceandpinchthehold.Pinchgripsaremostusefulonsmallknobsandpebblelikeholds.Thestrongestpinchisoftenbetweenthethumbandsideoftheindexfinger.
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Thereareinnumerableprecisehandandfingerconfigurations,anditwouldbesuperfluoustodescribealltheoptionsinthistext.Exploringtherocktodiscoverwhatworksbestispartoftheclimbingexperience.Thereare,however,fourbasichandpatterns,or"grips":theopengrip,thecling(or"crimper"),thewrap,andthepinchgrip.
Twoadditionalhandandarmtechniquesthatareveryusefularetheunderclingandthemantle.Theunderclingusesanupsidedownhold,suchasaflakeoroverhangedge,bygrippingwiththepalmupward.Pullingupandoutonthehold,usuallybyleaningthebodyoutfromtherock,providescounterpressureforthefeet.Thesecurityofanunderclinggetsbetterasyoumoveyourfeethigherhowever,thestressonthearmsincreasesaswell.
Themantleisusedtogainaledgeorflattoppedfeatureand,asthenameimplies,ismuchlikeclimbingontoafireplacemantleorcountertop.Withbothhandsontheledge,bringyourfeetuptohighholds.Now,hoistyourbodyuntilonehandcanbepositionedheeldowntopressthebodyfurtherupward.Whenyourbodyisupasfaraspossibleaboveyourhands,liftafoottotheledge.Lookforahandholdhigherontheface,andstanduponthe
Combiningamantlewiththearmandahighsteptogainaledge.
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ledge.Mantlingisaverystrenuousmaneuver,and,whennogoodhandholdabovetheledgeisavailable,standingupmayseemlikebalancingonaflagpole.Wheneverpossible,itisbesttoavoidfulloutmantles.
CrackClimbing
Whilecracksmakeiteasytofindarouteyousimplyfollowthelinetheyoftenlackhorizontaledgestostanduponortograspwithyourhands.Thefourmovementprinciplesstillapplywhenclimbingcracks,butpurchaseforholdsmustcomefromavarietyof"jamming"techniquesforhandsandfeet.
Ifyouhavespentmostofyourtimehoningfaceclimbingskills,exposuretoasteepcrackcanseemforeignandparticularlystrenuousuntilthepropertechniquesbecomefamiliar.IexperiencedthisacutelyonaroutenamedSoleratDevil'sTowerNationalMonument.MypartnerandIhadspentthepreviousfourdaysclimbingknobbyfaceroutesintheNeedlesofSouthDakota,butnowwehungfromtworustyboltsandasolidSLCDinacrack,46metersabovetheledgewheretheropedclimbinghadbegun.Therockabovewassteepandfeatureless,exceptforasingle,narrowcrackthatslicedthenext30metersinastraightline.Themovesupthisfissurewouldrequirepurecrackclimbingskills.ThevariousfingerpinchandclinggripsthatwehadusedintheNeedleswouldnotapplyhere,sowedustedthebacksofourhandswithchalkandpreparedtojam!
Inthebestcrackclimbingcircumstances,afinger,hand,fist,toe,orfootisslottedjustaboveaconstrictioninthecrackandpulledorpusheddowntowedgeagainsttheconstriction.Inparallelsidedcracksthosewithoutconvenientconstrictionssometypeoftorque,cammingaction,orotherexpansionmustoccurtojamtheappendageinthecrack.
Cracktypesaredescribedaccordingtothepredominanthandtechniquethatthecracksizedictates.Ofcourse,climbershavedifferentsizedhands,whichdoesbecomeafactor,butforthemostparttheterminologyapplies.Thefourprimarytypes,inascendingsizeorder,arefingercracks,handcracks,fistcracks,andoffwidthcracks.Largercracksintowhichmostorallofyourbodywillfitarecalledchimneys.
FingerCracks
Fingercracksmakeforexcitingtechnicalclimbing.Theclassic"fingerlock"jaminvolvesplacingthefingersinthecrack,usuallythumbdown,andlockingtheknucklesaboveaconstriction.Whenthearmpullsdown,thetorqueonthehandcamsthefingerstightlyintothehold.Althoughthethumbdownpositionisusuallypreferable,thincracksmayonlyadmitthe
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fingertipsofthepinkieandringfingers,inwhichcaseathumbuphandpositionisrequired.Whateverthesituation,trytogetasmanyfingersasdeeplyintothejamaspossible.
Thefootworkforfingercracksinvolvestoejamming.Thisiswhererockshoeswithnarrow,pointedtoesreallyperform.Thefootisturnedsidewayswiththebigtoeupandthekneeout,whilethetoeoftheshoeisplacedinthecrack.Thejamissetbyrotatingthekneeupwardandweightingthefoottocamtheshoeinthecrack.Searchoutthecrackcarefullyforgoodtoejamspots,asfingercrackswillnotoffermuchinthewayofspaceforthefeet.
Youcan"leapfrog"yourhandsupthecrackwhilemaintainingthethumbsdownorientationoryoucanshufflejamswithoutcrossingthehandsover.Oftenitisbesttojamonefootinthecrackwhiletheotherworksonfaceholdstothesideofthecrack.Practicewillenableyoutoworkwiththepersonalityoftherockandfindthemostefficientmovesandpositions.
Workingafingercrackwithonefootsmearingontheface.
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Whenthecrackleanstooneside,thehandonthatsidewillusuallyleadinthethumbdownposition.Yourbodywillstayonthedownsideofthecrack,andthefootonthatsidewillprobablystayonthefacetoeithersmearoredgewhiletheoppositefootjamsthecrack.
HandandFistCracks
Handsizedcrackscanmakeforrapidupwardprogressassecurehandandfootjamsaresetoverandoverinrhythmicsuccession.Theclassichandjamissimilarto"shakinghands"withthecrack.Thehandisinserted,thumbupwithfingersstraight,thenthethumbisbroughttightlyacrossthepalmtowardthebaseofthepinkie.Itisthisthumbactionthatexpandsthehandagainstthesidesofthecracktosetthejam.Whenexecutedproperlyinanappropriatelysizedcrack,thehandjamisaboutassecureasclimbingholdsget.
Classichandandfootjamminginaverticalcrack.
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Differentcrackwidthsrequiremodificationsofthebasichandjamtechnique.Thefingersmaybeflexedatthesecondorthirdknuckletoprovideanarchortentlikeconfigurationinwidercracks.Forjamsabovethehead,thehandmaybeinsertedthumbdownandtorquedintoasecurejam.
Aswithfingerjams,handjamsmaybeleapfroggedorshuffled.Ingeneral,athumbdownhandjamwillbesecurewhenplacedoveryourhead,butitlosespurchaseasyoumoveupandpast.Thethumbupjamismostsecureatfacelevelandbelow.
Footjamsaresecuredinthesamemannerastoejams.Turnthefootonitssidewiththekneeoutward,slottheshoeinthecrack,rotatethekneeupward,andstandupontheleg.Aswithhandjams,footjamsmaybeleapfrogged,oneovertheother,orshuffled.Donotsetfootjamstoodeeplyinthecrackorlegmovementwillbecompromised.Apositionthatacceptsthetoeandballofthefootusuallyprovidesmaximumsecurity.
Whenthecrackistoolargeforsecurehandjamming,thehandmayberotated45degreestoenableafistjam.Thefistisplacedintopositionfairlyrelaxed,thenflexedtoapplypressureagainstthesidesofthecrack.Fistjamsmaybeplacedstraightin,asifpunchingthecrack,orreversed,withthepalmfacingoutofthecrack.Thethumbispositionedeitheroutsidethefistoverthefingersortuckedintothepalm.Sincethereislessabilitytoexpandthehandinafistpositionthaninthehandjamposition,itisimportanttorecognizeslightconstrictionsandpinchesinthecrackcontoursabovewhichtoplacethefist.
OffWidthCracks
Climbingoffwidthcracksthosetoowideforfistjamsbuttoonarrowtochimneyisawkward,strenuouswork.Furthermore,thepropertechniqueseemsdifficulttomaster.Suchfissuresareoftenreferredtoas"awfulwidth."
Fortunately,fewmodernclimbingroutesinvolveoffwidthtechniquesincecontemporaryclimberstendtoavoidcracksthatrequireit.Historically,however,routesfollowednaturallines,cracks,andchimneysystems,andthemostdifficultoftheseinvolvedoffwidth.Youmaythereforefindshortorlongstretchesofoffwidthterrainonsomeoftheolder"classic"routes.
Offwidthcracksareclimbedsideways,withonefootandarminsidethecrack.andtheotherfootandarmontheoutside.Beforeyoulaunchupanoffwidth,youneedtodecidewhichdirectiontofaceasitisusuallyimpossibletoswitchwhileinthecrack.
Theinsidearmisusuallyinanarmbarpositionextendedintothecrackwiththepalmpressedforwardagainsttherockandtheelbowandupperarm
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pressedbackagainsttheoppositesideofthecrack.Theinsidelegstrugglestofindsomecombinationofcounterpressurebetweenfootandkneeorkneeandhip.
Theoutsidelegmustprovidetheforcetomovethebodyupwardusingaheeltoejamorworkingoffedgesalongtheouterlip.Theoutsidehandcanbeusedhighorlow,pushingappropriatelytohelpkeepyouinthecrack.
Occasionally,thecrackmaynarrowdowntowherethehandscanbestackedforasecurejamuntilthelegsaremovedup.Ofcourse,youwillneedtogetsometypeofgoodholdorjamforthelegs,oryourhandswillbestuck.
ProtectYourHands
Learningcrackclimbingcanbeapainfulexperienceasyoustruggletodevelopefficientjammingtechniques.Manyclimberstapethebacksoftheirhandswithclothathletictapetoprotectfromabrasions.Todoso,firstlayafewstripsoftapeacrossthebackofthehandtoformtheinitialpad.Holdthehandinaslightlycuppedposition,flexedabitforwardatthewrist.Beginningonthepinkiesideofthehand,bringastripfromthewristareadiagonallyacrossthebackofthehand,aroundtheindexfinger,andbacktothewrist.Repeatthisfromthethumbsideofthewrist,acrossthehand,andaroundthepinkiefingerandback.Finally,wrapacoupleofcompleteturnsaroundthewristtolocktheendsofthediagonalwraps.Avoidmakingthewrapstootightly:Circulationcanbeimpededandmobilityofthewristandhandlimitedbythetape.
ClimbingChimneys
Whenthecrackisbigenoughtoaccommodateyourentirebody,itiscalledachimney.Chimneytechniquesvaryaccordingtothesizeofthegap,butascendingalwaysinvolvessometypeofcrossbodypressureagainstthesidesofthechimney.
Narrowchimneysareusuallyclimbedusingpressurebetweenthekneesandback.Theflexedkneesarepressedagainsttheforwardwall,whilethefeetandbackarepressedagainstthebackwall.Maximizefootfrictionbykeepingthetoespointeddownwardandthesolesflatagainsttherock.Thehandspressforwardtostabilizetheupperbackasthebodyisratchetedupward.
Inwiderchimneys,crossbodypressureisaccomplishedbetweenthefeetandback.Extendedlegspressthefeetagainsttheforwardwall,andthearmsremaindownwardwiththehandspressedagainstthebackwall.Amoveis
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madebypressingdownandbackwiththearmsenoughtoreleasethebackpressure,asthetorsoslidesslightlyupward.Onefootmaykickbackagainsttherearwalltoaidinpushingthetorsoupward.Forthenextupwardmove,thisfootisextendedtotheforwardwallandtheoppositefootkickedback.
Climbnarrowchimneysusingpressurebetweenthekneesandtheback.
CounterpressureTechniques
Thecrossbodypressureusedinchimneytechniquesisaformofcounterpressurewhereforceappliedinonedirectioncreatesanotherforceintheoppositedirection.Counterpressuretechniquescanbeusedwhenthe
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forcesyoumustapplytoholdsarenotdirectlyinlinewithgravity."Stemming"withthelegstocreatecounterpressurebetweentwolateralholdswilloftenyieldasecure,evenrestful,position.Classicstemmingisthetechniqueofchoiceforbridgingthespacebetweenthewallsofaninsidecorner.
Stemmingtoprovidecounterpressureforthefeet.
Faceholdsmayalsobestemmedtoprovideastancewhilehandholdsaresearchedout.Comingoutofastemonfaceholdsusuallyrequiresyoutorockyourbodyweightupintoabalancedpositionoveronefoot.Thismoveiscalledarockupandisfollowedbyasteptothenextholdbytheoppositefoot.
Somechimneysaresowidethatyoumuststemcompletelyacrossthegapwiththelefthandandfootononewallandtherighthandandfootonthe
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other.Thecounterpressureproducedbythisspreadeaglepositionkeepsyouontherockwhileyourhandsandfeetshuffleupwardinsmall,carefulincrements.
Stemmingtechniquesarenotlimitedtosupportpositions.Occasionally,yourpositionontherock,particularlyonoverhangingfaces,willproduceatendencyforyourbodytorotateorswingtooneside.Thissocalled''barndoor"effectcanbepreventedbystemmingafootouttothesidetoblocktheswing.Youcanalsouseacounterbalancetechniquetocorrectthebarndooreffectby"flagging"onelegofftherock,acrossyourmidline,andbehindyoursupportingleg.
Flaggingalegtooffsetthebarndooreffect.
Offsetcracksandcracksincornersareoften"liebacked"usingcounterpressurebypullingwiththearmswhilepressingwiththefeetintheoppositedirection.Liebackingrequiresthatyoumaintaingoodhandcontactwiththerocksinceitistheleanoffyourarmsthatprovidesthecounterpressureforthefeet.Handsandfeetmaybeleapfroggedorshuffledasyoumoveupward.Liebackingisanotherstrenuoustechnique,butyoucanminimizefatiguebymaintainingstraightarms,thusplacingmuchoftheforceontheskeleton.
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Pureliebacktechniqueupacornercrack
TipsforClimbingOverhangs
1.Althoughyoumaybeunabletopositionyourweightdirectlyoveryourfeetonoverhangingrock,footworkisstillimportant.Lookforedges,placestohookaheel,andotherfeaturesthatcanbeusedtotaketheweightofyourlegsoffyourarms.
2.Oftenyoucanworkyourfeetuphighbetweenmoves,wheretheycanhelppushyouintopositionforthenextreach.
3.Whenreachingforahold,youmayneedtopullinquicklywiththeoppositearmandhandclosetotheshouldertolockoffasyoumakethenextreach.Thisisastrenuousmaneuver,sotakeaimonthenextholdandmovequickly.Fromsomepositionsyoucanreduceoverallarmstressbykeepingthesupportarmstraight,insteadofpullingintoalockoff,andpushingthebodyupwardwiththelegs.
(tablecontinuedonnextpage)
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(tablecontinuedfrompreviouspage)
4.Lookandfeelforopportunitiestousecounterpressure,flagging,andcontrolledbutdynamiclungestoavoidstrenuouspullups.Placingtheoutsideedgeofonefootonaholdandtwistingthebodyintotherockonthatsidemaysometimesenableyoutoreachahighholdwiththeinsidearmatechniquecalled"twistlocking."
5.Hangonstraightarmswhileinstaticpositionstoletyourskeleton,insteadofyourmuscles,takemostofyourweight.
Usinga"twistlock"toreachahighholdonoverhangingrock.
ProtectingYourselfwhileClimbingHowtoSetUpAnchors
Ifmovementovertherockisthoughtofasthe"art"ofrockclimbing,protectingyourselfwithaharness,rope,andanchorsisthe"science,"althoughagooddealofcreativityisinvolvedhereaswell.Learningthepropertechniquesforropedclimbingisaseriousmattersincemostacci
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dentsinvolvementalerrorsmadebyclimbers.Theuseofthefigure8followthroughknottotietheropeintotheclimbingharnesswascoveredinChapter2.Thischapterconcentratesontheanchorsystemanditsintegrationwiththeropetoprotecttheclimber.
Ofprimaryimportanceinropedclimbingisestablishingsolid,failsafeanchors.Inleadclimbing,theprimaryanchorisforthebelayer,thepersonwhomanagestheropeandprotectstheclimberduringfalls.Mosttopropesetupswillinvolvetwoanchorsystems,oneforthebelayerandonefortherope.
UsingNaturalAnchors
Thebestanchorsareoftennaturalobjectsandfeatures,suchastrees,boulders,androckhorns.Oneadvantageofnaturalanchorsisthattheyareoftenmultidirectionalorabletotakeforcesfromseveraldirections.Whenanchorsmustbedirectionalandcounterforcesinonedirectiononly,youmustcarefullypredictthemostlikelydirectionthatforcewillbeappliedinthesystem.Beforeusinganaturalanchor,checktomakecertainitissolidbyvigorouslytuggingandpushingonit.Someclimbersusethe"sixbysix"rulefortrees:sixfeettallbysixinchesthickatthebasehowever,thisisratherarbitrary.Ofmoreconcerniswhetherthetreeislivingandfirmlyrooted.
Naturalanchorsareconnectedtotheropeorclimberusingsewnortiedwebbingrunnersandcarabiners.Therunnerisdoubledorgirthhitchedaroundtheanchor.Inthecaseoftiedrunners,thewebbingloopmaybetieddirectlyaroundtheanchorwithawaterknottoalloweasieradjustmenttothecorrectlength.Placetherunnerclosetotheanchor'sbasetominimizetorqueeffectswhichcouldbreakoruproottheanchor.
UsingArtificialAnchors
Whetheryouaresettingartificialanchorsforatopropesystemorworkingtogetintermediateprohalfwayupasteepfaceroute,theprinciplesofusingprotectiongear,called"chockcraft"bysome,arethesame.Youshouldtaketimetolearnthecorrectmethodsforplacingartificialanchordevicesandpracticeuntilyouarefamiliarandefficientwiththegear.Settinguptopropeanchorsystemswithartificialgearenablesyoutolearnthebasicsinamorerelaxedsettingthanyou'llencounterwhenstrungoutonaleadwithyourforearmspumping.
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ChockcraftBasics
Anartificialanchorisonlyasgoodastherockitcontacts.Inspecttheplacementsiteandavoidsuspicious,crumblytextures,looseflakesorblocks,anddirty,vegetatedslots.
Selectthesizeandshapethatbestfitsthecontoursoftheplacementspotintherock.
Usethelargestsizethatwillfitappropriately.
Placethepiecesuchthatcontactareawiththerockismaximized.
Orienttheslingorcableinthedirectionoftheanticipatedforce.
PlacingNuts,Hexcentrics,andTriCams
Asartificialanchorsgo,nutsarehardtobeatduetotheirsimpledesignandoverallstrength.Thestandardnutistaperedontwosidesandwillfittwosizesofcrack.Itisalwaysbesttoplaceanutlengthwisetoprovidemaximumcontactarea.
Somenutsarecurvedslightlyandhave"left"and"right"orientationsforyoutochoosebetweenasthecrackcontoursdictate.Findthebestorientationtomaximizecontactwiththerock,and,inthecaseofaparallelsidedcrack,assureawedgewiththreegoodpointsofcontact.
Wheneverpossible,placeanutwherethecracknotonlypinchesoffinthedirectionofthemostlikelyforce,butalsopinchesintheoutwarddirectionthishelpstokeepthepieceinthecrack.Agentletughelps"set"thenutinposition.
Itisimportanttoextendtheclipendofwirednutswithaquickdraworrunnertoprovideaflexiblelinktotherope.Adirectsidewayspullonthestiffcablecantorquethenutandliftitoutofthecrack.Itisascarysightfortheleadertolookbelowandseeherlastnutslidingdowntheropetowardthebelayer.
Hexcentricsareabitmoredifficulttoplacecorrectlythannuts,but,onceset,arestronganchors.Hexesoffertwoplacementorientationsintheprimarylateralpositionandathirdwhenplacedendwiseinacrack.Theprinciplesinvolvedingoodnutplacementapplyforhexesaswell.Theunevensidesofahexandtheorientationofthecordcanprovidesomepassivecammingforcewhenthepieceisforceloaded.Thiscammingactionisobtainedfrombothprimaryplacementpositions,butnotfromtheendwiseposition.
TriCams
TheunusualshapeoftheTriCamenablesittofitsomespotsinaccessibletoothergear.TherearethreemodesofplacementforTriCams:wedgedaboveaconstrictionlikeanutwiththeslingthreadedbetweenthespinerails
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Nutsmaybeplacedintwoorientation,buttheplacementontheleftispreferred.
Ahexcentricplacedendwise(left)andinapassivecammingorientation(right).
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ATriCamplacedasawedge(left)andasapassivecam(right)
SLCDsarestrongestwhenthecamsareevenlysetat10to50percentfulldeployment.
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forpassivecammingactionandpokedintosolutionpockets,thencammedbehindthelip.
Whenconfiguredasapassivecam,thefulcrumpointshouldbeplacedinanindentationorbehindabump,withthespinerailsagainsttheothersideofthecrack.Allthreepointsmustbeincontactwiththerock,andthepiecemustbesetwithatug.BewareofunstableTriCamplacement,andconsiderextendingtheslingwithaquickdraw,asasidewayspullcanrattlethepieceloose.
UsingSpringLoadedCammingDevices(SLCDs)
Springloadedcammingdevicesaredesignedtofitparallelsidedcracksthatoffernoconstrictionforwedginganutorhexcentric.ThespringloadedcamsprovidefrictionthatholdstheSLCDinplace,whiletheirshaperesultsinatighterwedgewhentheunitisforceloaded.AlthoughSLCDsareoftentoutedas"simpletouse"and"failsafe,"thereareseveralimportantpointstounderstandaboutthem.
Mostreported"failures"ofSLCDsaretheresultoftheunitsskiddingoutofthecrack.Insoftsandstone,SLCDshavebeenknowntoskidseveralincheswhenseverelyloaded.AlwaysconsiderthequalityoftherockinwhichyouareplacingaSLCD.Iftherockissoftorloose,bewary.
IftheactionoftheropecausestheSLCDtowigglebackandforth,itcan"walk"deeperintoacrack,makingretrievalimpossible.Youreducethistendencybyextendingtheplacementwithaquickdraworrunner.
TheindependentspringloadedcamsonaSLCDenabletheunittoconformtoirregularcrackcontours,buttheunitmaynotbeasstrongwhenthecamsareoffsetinthismanner.ThestrongestSLCDplacementsarethosewherethecamsareevenlysetat1050percentdeploymentandthestemorcableisalignedwiththemostlikelydirectionofanticipatedforce.Acamistoosmallforthecrack,anditsstrengthandstabilitywillbelow,ifitisnearlyfullydeployed,or"tippedout."Ontheotherhand,ifyouforceaunitwithnearlyfullycontractedcamsintoacrack,itislikelytogetpermanentlystuck.
SettingUpaTopRopeAnchorSystem
Thegeneralruleforanchoringtheropefortopropedclimbingistoconnectaminimumofthreeindependentanchorsatthetopofthecrag.Runnersareusedtoextendtheanchorpointsovertheedgeoftheclifftopreventtheropefromabradingoversharprock.Themiddleoftheropeisconnectedtotheserunnersbyaminimumoftwocarabiners,andtheropeendshangtotheground.Inthissetupthebelayermanagestheropefromgroundlevel.
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Afterhikingupatrailorscramblingovereasyterraintothetopofthecrag,determinethebestlocationfortheanchorbinerstoextendovertheedge.Normallytheanchorbinersareplacedattheendoftheroute.Whentheroutefollowsafairlystraightverticalline,theropewillalwaysbedirectlyabovetheclimberandfallswillberelativelyinconsequential.Iftheroutetraversestotheside,andtheropelineisatanangle,theclimberwillbeexposedtoapotentiallydangerousswingifshefalls.Thisiscalleda"bellringer"andshouldbeconsideredwhenlocatingtheupperanchors.
Athreeanchortopropesysteminvolving(lefttoright)atreetiedoffwithwebbing,alongrunnergirthhitchedtoatree,andaSLCDinacrack.
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Lookaroundforconvenient,bombproofnaturalanchorsandplacementpossibilitiesforartificialanchors.Onceyouhaveestablishedtheanchorpoints,usewebbingrunnerstoextendtheanchorsoverthecliffedge.Ifasinglerunnermustbeusedtoconnecttwoseparateanchors,useaselfequalizingsliderbyputtingatwistononeendofthedoubledrunnerbeforeclippingthebiners.Avoiddirectingtherunnersoveranysharpedgesthatcouldcutordamagethewebbing.Ifsharpedgesareunavoidable,youcanpadtherunnerwithclothingorapack.
Clipaminimumoftwocarabinersthroughallanchorrunnerstoaccepttherope.Atleastoneofthesecarabinersmustbealockingtype.Wheneverpossible,usetwolockingbinersattheropeconnection.
Whenthecarabinersareplacedintopositionovertheedge,theextensionrunnersfromtheanchorsmustcometogetherattheropeconnectionsuchthatallanglesbetweenrunnersarelessthan120degrees.Limittheanglesto90
Usingasinglerunnerasaselfequalizingslidertoconnecttwoanchorpoints.
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degreeswheneverpossible.Keepingtheseanglessmallensuresthatnosingleanchorwillhavetoabsorbthetotalforcegeneratedinafall.
Oncethemiddleoftheropeisclippedinandalllockingbinerssecurelylocked,placethesystemovertheedgesuchthatthegateofthelockingbinerfacesout,awayfromtherock,withthegateopeningpositioneddownward.Thesecondcarabinershouldbeplacedwithitsgateinoppositiontotheprimarylockingbiner.
InReview
Doublecheckthefollowingpointsconcerningconnectiontheanchorstotheropecarabiners:
Wheneverpossible,useindependentrunnerstoextendandconnecttheanchorstotherope.Thisbuildsredundancyintothesystemshouldonerunnerfail.
Equalizethetensionfromallanchorconnectionstothedoubledbinersthatwillaccepttherope.
Ensurethatnoanglebetweenanchorextensionsexceeds120degreesanglesof90degreesorlessarepreferred.
Avoidplacingcomponentsoftheanchorandextensionsystemoversharprockedges.Usepadswherenecessary.
Beforetossingtheropedown,makecertainthatitcontainsnoknotsthatcouldgetsnaggedinacrack.Coilitinonehand,andshout''rope"towarnpeoplebelowthatit'scomingdown.Aimwhenyouthrowtheropetoavoidtossingyourlifelineintodirt,poolsofwater,orthetopsoftrees.
Oncetheropeishung,checkthattheanchorextensionsareatequaltensionsothatforceswillbedirectedtoallanchorsevenly.Youmayneedtoshortenorextendsomerunnersappropriately.
Doafinalchecktoensurethatthecarabinersarepositionedcorrectlyandthatalllockingbinersarelocked.
Whensettinguptopropeanchors,takeyourtimetoestablishabombproofsystem.Ifyoumustworkclosetotheedgewhileriggingthesystem,putonaharnessandtieintoananchor.Doublecheckallknotsandconnectionsbeforehikingdowntoenjoytheroute.
Topropedroutescanbebelayedfromthetopoftherockbyarrangingthelengthoftheanchorextensionstoplacethebelayeratthecliffedge,facingoutward.Theanchorcarabinersareclippedintothebelayer'sharness
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waistbeltandlocked.Theanchorextensionsshouldbeontensionwhenthebelayerisinpositionlestafalljerkhimovertheedge.
Whilethissystemprovidesthebelayerwithanexcitingperchandenableshimtotopropelongroutes,itdoeshaveafewdisadvantages.Theropewillusuallypassovertheedgeoftherockandcouldbedamagedbyafallorwhenloweringaclimber.Oftenthebelayerwillbeunabletoseetheclimber,socommunicationmaybedifficult.Also,morecareisrequiredwhenexchangingplacesbetweenclimberandbelayeratthetopofthecragthanwhenontheground.Whentheclimbingrouteisshortenoughtoallowtheropetobedoubled,thegroundbelayisthestandardofchoicetoday.
Belaying
Tobelaymeanstomakesafeorsecure.Inrockclimbing,thebelayermanagestheropeandprotectstheclimberifafalloccurs.Thebelaysystemconsistsofthreecomponents:thebelayer,therope,andtheanchors.Theintegrityofthesecomponentsmustbemaintained,sincefailureofanyonecomponentwillusuallyleadtodisaster.
Intopropeclimbing,thesecurelyanchoredbelayerconnectstheropethroughabelaydeviceattachedtohisclimbingharnesswithalockingcarabiner.Thebelayerthentakesinropeastheclimberascendsorfeedsitoutiftheclimbermovesdown.Oncetherouteiscompleted,ortheclimberwishestodescendforarest,thebelayerslowlyfeedsoutropeloweringtheclimbertotheground.Ifafalloccurs,itisthebelayer'sresponsibilitytoeffectivelyarrestit.
SettingUptheBelay
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