chapter 5 chemistry

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | ADVANCE ORGANIZER

CHAPTER 5CHEMISTRY5.15.25.3

MATTERTHE pH SCALECHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS

FOLLOWING THIS LESSON, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO:FOLLOWING THIS LESSON, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO:FOLLOWING THIS LESSON, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO:FOLLOWING THIS LESSON, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO:FOLLOWING THIS LESSON, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO:FOLLOWING THIS LESSON, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO:FOLLOWING THIS LESSON, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO:FOLLOWING THIS LESSON, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO:FOLLOWING THIS LESSON, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO:FOLLOWING THIS LESSON, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO:• Describe matter, elements of hair and structure and

behavior of atoms and bonds• Describe pH scale and values associated with water, acids

and alkalines• Identify precautions necessary for various classifications

of chemicals when working with professional products

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | ADVANCE ORGANIZER

5.1 MATTERELEMENTSCHEMICAL BONDS

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | ADVANCE ORGANIZER

MATTER

SOLIDdefinite weight,

volume and shape

LIQUIDdefinite weightand volume but indefinite shape

GASdefinite weight but indefinite

volume and shape

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER

Anything that occupies space

Change in the physical characteristics of a substance without creating a new substance

When water freezes it becomes ice. It is still water, but now it’s a solid instead of a liquid.

PHYSICAL CHANGE

Change in a substance that creates a new substance

A chemical change occurswhen hydrogen combineswith oxygen to form a new substance, water.

CHEMICAL CHANGE

Scientific study of matter and the physical and chemical changes of matter1. Organic Chemistry: deals with matter that is living or was

alive, with carbon present2. Inorganic Chemistry: studies matter that is not alive, has

never been alive and does not contain carbon

CHEMISTRY

Basic substances that cannot be broken down into simpler substances

ELEMENTS

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | ELEMENTS

Use this acronym to remember the elements found in hair:

COHNSCarbon, Oxygen, Hydrogen, Nitrogen, Sulfur

Smallest complete unit of an element

COMPOSED OF THREE MAIN PARTS:1. Protons: positive electrical charge2. Neutrons: no electrical charge3. Electrons: negative electrical charge

Chemical behavior of atoms depends mostly on number of electrons in the outer shellHydrogen• Simplest atomic structure• 1 proton and 1 electron• Atomic number of 1

Positive ProtonNegative Proton

HYDROGEN ATOM (H)

Two or more atoms joined together by a chemical bond

TWO HYDROGEN ATOMS, EACH WITH

ONE ELECTRON

ONE OXYGEN ATOM AND ITS EIGHT

ELECTRONS

THE RESULT IS H2O

MOLECULES

• With an element, the atoms are the SAME• With a compound, the atoms are DIFFERENT

MOLECULES

Amino Acids: compounds consisting of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen and nitrogen

CHEMICAL BONDS

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | CHEMICAL BONDS

Hair: form of protein called keratin

Hair is made of 97% keratin protein and 3% trace minerals

AMINO ACIDS

Peptide Bonds (End Bonds): formed when two amino acids are positioned end-to-end causing acid end of one to attach to amino end of another• Amino acids that create protein are linked

together by a peptide bond• Hair is the linking together of protein groupsIt’s very important not to disturb peptide bonds – combining alkaline chemicals and heat could break these critical peptide bonds and destroy the protein structure.

FOUR SIDE BONDS1. Hydrogen Bond2. Salt Bond3. Disulfide Bond4. Van der Waal’s Forces

AMINO ACIDS

FOUR SIDE BONDS1. Hydrogen Bond

• Works on principle that unlike charges attract• Can easily be broken by heat or water • Accounts for 35% of hair’s strength due to millions

of hydrogen bonds in hair’s structure

AMINO ACIDS

FOUR SIDE BONDS2. Salt Bond

• Result of attraction of unlike charges; the negative charge in one amino acid grouping attracts the positive charge in another

• Accounts for 35% of hair’s resistance to change

AMINO ACIDS

FOUR SIDE BONDS3. Disulfide Bond

• Results when sulfur-type side chains join with other sulfur-type side chains

• Most important bond to cosmetology• Broken or reformed by chemical services, producing

a chemical change with lasting results

AMINO ACIDS

FOUR SIDE BONDS4. Van der Waal’s Forces

• Based on theory that atomic groups prefer environment with other groups that have similar structures

• Not important for cosmetology services other than to know that it exists and plays a role in bonding protein chains

AMINO ACIDS

1. Hair begins with individual atoms, the smallest unit of matter

2. Atoms unite by sharing electrons tobecome molecules of amino acids

AMINO ACIDS

3. The amino acids create polypeptide protein chains4. The ends of the amino acids bond to form peptide bonds5. The bonding of protein chains

to other protein chains makes human hair

SELF-CHECKOn a sheet of paper numbered 1-8, answer the following questions.

1. Anything that occupies space existing as a solid, liquid or gas is termed __________.

2. All of the following are elements that form the basis of hair, nails and skin EXCEPT:a. sulfurb. heliumc. carbond. oxygen

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | SELF-CHECK

SELF-CHECK

3. T or F Atoms have a nucleus containing protons and electrons.

4. The chemical behavior of atoms depends mostly on the number of __________ in the outer shell.

SELF-CHECK

Match the term with the best description.5. __ Peptide bond

6. __ Hydrogen bond

7. __ Salt bond

8. __ Disulfide bond

a. Negative charge in one amino acid grouping attracts the positive charge in another

b. Formed when acid end of one amino acid attaches to amino end of another

c. Hydrogen atom in one molecule attracted to atom of another molecule with negative electrons

d. Most important bond to a salonprofessional’s work

1. Anything that occupies space existing as a solid, liquid or gas is termed __________.

2. All of the following are elements that form the basis of hair, nails and skin EXCEPT:a. sulfurb. heliumc. carbond. oxygen

matter

SELF-CHECK

3. T or F Atoms have a nucleus containing protons and electrons.

4. The chemical behavior of atoms depends mostly on the number of __________ in the outer shell.

Protons and neutrons are packed together tightly to form the nucleus. Electrons move about the nucleus on orbiting paths.

electrons

SELF-CHECK

Match the term with the best description.5. __ Peptide bond

6. __ Hydrogen bond

7. __ Salt bond

8. __ Disulfide bond

a. Negative charge in one amino acid grouping attracts the positive charge in another

b. Formed when acid end of one amino acid attaches to amino end of another

c. Hydrogen atom in one molecule attracted to atom of another molecule with negative electrons

d. Most important bond to a salonprofessional’s work

FACE THE FACTSMATTER Defined as anything that occupies spaceELEMENTS The five elements found in the hair are carbon, oxygen,

hydrogen, nitrogen and sulfur Atoms are the smallest complete unit of an element

and consist of protons, neutrons and electrons

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | FACE THE FACTS

FACE THE FACTS Protons and neutrons located in nucleus A molecule is two or more atoms joined by

chemical bondCHEMICAL BONDS Hair is a form of protein called keratin Peptide bond forms when two amino acids are

positioned end-to-end causing the acid end of one to attach to amino end of another

FACE THE FACTSCHEMICAL BONDS Hydrogen bonds give hair about 35% of its strength Salt bonds are result of attraction of unlike charges and

account for 35% of hair’s strength Disulfide bond is most important to a salon professional’s

work since many chemical services break or reform this bond into new shape

5.2 THE pH SCALE

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | THE pH SCALE | ADVANCE ORGANIZER

pH (Potential Hydrogen): unit of measurement that indicates whether a substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline• Measures the amount of acid or alkali in a

water-based solution

THE pH SCALE

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | THE pH SCALE

THE pH SCALE

ACIDIC SOLUTIONmore positive hydrogen

ions than negative hydroxide ions

NEUTRAL SOLUTION equal numberof positive andnegative ions

ALKALINE SOLUTION More negative

hydroxide ions than positive hydrogen ions

• Ranges from 0 to 14 with number 7 as neutral• Numbers less than seven indicate acid• Numbers greater than seven indicate alkaline

The scale is logarithmic, which means each step or number increases by multiples of 10

THE pH SCALE

ACID BALANCED• Means pH is between 4.5 to 5.5 • Is the term applied to most professional shampoos

THE pH SCALE

Acid Balanced

1. T or F The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14 with numbers less than 7 indicating alkaline.

2. Distilled water has equal numbers of hydroxide ions and hydrogen ions causing it to be __________.

3. An acidic solution contains more __________ ions than __________ ions.

4. An alkaline solution contains more __________ ions than __________ ions.

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | THE pH SCALE |SELF-CHECK

SELF-CHECK

Match the term with the best description.5. __ Acidic solution

6. __ Alkaline solution

7. __ Neutral solution

a. pH value of approximately 7

b. pH values less than 7

c. pH values greater than 7

1. T or F The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14 with numbers less than 7 indicating alkaline.

2. Distilled water has equal numbers of hydroxide ions and hydrogen ions causing it to be __________.

3. An acidic solution contains more __________ ions than __________ ions.

4. An alkaline solution contains more __________ ions than __________ ions.

neutral

hydrogenhydroxide

hydroxidehydrogen

SELF-CHECK

Match the term with the best description.5. __ Acidic solution

6. __ Alkaline solution

7. __ Neutral solution

a. pH value of approximately 7

b. pH values less than 7

c. pH values greater than 7

FACE THE FACTSTHE pH SCALE Unit of measurement that indicates whether substance

is acidic, neutral or alkaline Ranges from 0 to 14; below 7 is acid; above 7 is alkaline;

7 is neutral Logarithmic, each step or number increases by

multiples of 10 Acid balanced means the pH is in the acid range of 4.5

to 5.5

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | THE pH SCALE |FACE THE FACTS

5.3 CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICSCOSMETIC CLASSIFICATIONSSHAMPOOSRINSES AND CONDITIONERSPERMSRELAXERSCURL REFORMATIONHAIR COLORPRODUCT INFORMATION

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |ADVANCE ORGANIZER

Six classifications categorize cosmetics used in the cosmetology industry:1. SOLUTIONS2. SUSPENSIONS3. EMULSIONS4. OINTMENTS5. SOAPS6. POWDERS

COSMETIC CLASSIFICATIONS

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |COSMETIC CLASSIFICATIONS

Solution: mixture of two or more kinds of evenly dispersed moleculesSolute: any substance that dissolves into a liquid and forms a solutionSolvent: substance that is able to dissolve another substanceMixture: two or more substances that are physically combined

SOLUTIONS

Water is considered a universal solvent because it is capable of dissolving more substances than any other solvent.

SOLUTIONS

Mixture of two or more molecules that separate when left standing and need to be shaken before use.

SUSPENSIONS

Formed when two or more nonmixable substances are united by binder or gum-like substance.

Immiscible = liquids not able to be mixedMiscible = liquids able to be mixed together without separating

EMULSIONS

Perm Solutions

Oil-in-water

Cold Creams

Water-in-oil

Mixtures of organic substances and a medicinal agent; usually found in semi-solid form.

OINTMENTS

Mixtures of fats and oils converted to fatty acids by heat and then purified.

Equal mixtures of inorganic and organic substances that do not dissolve in water.

POWDERS

Shampoos clean scalp and hair to remove foreign matter without adversely affecting scalp or hair.

Shampooing should be a soothing, relaxing experience, as it sets the climate for all future services.Improper cleansing allows a breeding place for disease-causing bacteria and can lead to scalp disorders and even hair loss.

SHAMPOOS

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SHAMPOOS

Surfactants: cleansing agents used to remove oil from hair• Consist of two parts

• Cause oil to “roll up” into droplets, which are lifted into water and washed away

HOW SHAMPOO WORKS

2. Oil-Loving Part (Lipophilic)

1. Water-Loving Part (Hydrophilic)

Hard water contains certain salts and metals that prevent shampoo from latheringSoft water contains small amounts of minerals and is preferred because it lathers freely

THE ROLE OF WATER

Two methods used in purification of water:1. Sedimentation: undesirable substances sink to

the bottom2. Filtration: undesirable substances pass through

a porous substance

THE ROLE OF WATER

ALL-PURPOSE SHAMPOOS• Contain low alkaline content and low concentration of

surface active agents• Do not strip color and are very mild

ACID-BALANCED (NON-STRIPPING) SHAMPOOS

• Formulated to have same pH as hair and skin and can be used on all types of hair

PLAIN SHAMPOOS• Contain high alkaline soap base and are usually strong• Not recommended for chemically treated or damaged hair

TYPES OF SHAMPOO

SOAPLESS SHAMPOOS• Lather without harsh alkaline ingredients• Are effective in both soft and hard water• Rinse out easilyMEDICATED SHAMPOOS• Designed to treat scalp and hair problemsCLARIFYING SHAMPOOS• Use higher alkalinity in order to remove residue such as

product buildup, dirt, etc.

TYPES OF SHAMPOO

ANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOOS• Formulated for either dry or oily scalp • Contain an anti-fungus or germicide

LIQUID DRY SHAMPOOS

• Cleanse scalp and hair when the client is unable to receive normal shampoo

• Effective in cleaning wigs and hairpieces

TYPES OF SHAMPOO

POWDER DRY SHAMPOOS• Formulated for clients who are bedridden• Contain orris root powder that absorbs soil and oil as

the product is brushed through the scalp and hair• Do not apply prior to a chemical serviceCONDITIONING SHAMPOOS• Contain small amounts of animal, vegetable additives

that penetrate the cortex or coat the cuticle layer

TYPES OF SHAMPOO

COLOR SHAMPOOS• Contain temporary color molecules that adhere to

outer cuticle of the hair and deposit colorSHAMPOOS FOR THINNING HAIR• May contain ingredients to provide a healthy

environment for the maximum amount of hair growth

• COSMETIC APPEARANCE is luster or shine of the hair• POROSITY is amount of moisture, liquids or chemicals

hair can absorb• MANAGEABILITY is how easily a comb can pass

through hair• ELASTICITY is ability of hair to stretch and return to

natural shape without breaking

RINSES AND CONDITIONERS

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |RINSES AND CONDITIONERS

• Affect mostly surface of the hair• Applied to help close cuticle and make hair

feel soft and manageable

RINSES

VINEGAR AND LEMON (ACID) RINSES• Keep cuticle compact• Dissolve soap scum, untangle and separate

hair and add sheenCRÈME RINSES• Soften and add luster• Slightly acidicMEDICATED RINSES• Control minor dandruff and scalp conditions

RINSES

CONDITIONERS

Penetrate deep into hair to fortify damaged areas and protect from further damage

INSTANT CONDITIONERS• Coat hair shaft and restore moisture and oils• Do not penetrate cortex or replace keratin in shaftNORMALIZING CONDITIONERS• Contain a vegetable protein • Have an acidic pH causing the cuticle to close after

alkaline chemical service

CONDITIONERS

BODY-BUILDING CONDITIONERS• Penetrate damaged hair shaft and deposit

proteins into cortex• May be used prior to chemical services to

strengthen hair

MOISTURIZING CONDITIONERS• Recommended for dry, brittle hair• Contain humectants that penetrate into hair shaft

to bind and hold moistureCUSTOMIZED CONDITIONERS• Formulated to meet special needs of certain clients• Mixing moisturizing conditioner with body-building

protein product to improve the condition of client’s hair is an example

CONDITIONERS

Allow hair designers to chemically reform hair into wavy or curly formation.

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |PERMS

ORIGINAL STRAIGHT HAIR

SHIFTING AND BREAKING

OF DISULFIDE BONDS

DISULFIDEBONDS REFORMED

1. ALKALINE WAVES (COLD WAVES)• Process without heat• pH of 8.0 – 9.5

2. ACID WAVES (HEAT WAVES)• Process with heat• Wrapped with tension• pH of 6.9 – 7.2

• Main ingredient found in alkaline waves is thioglycolic acid or its derivatives and ammonium hydroxide

• Ammonium hydroxide is added to formula to shorten processing time and cause hair swelling

• Processing begins as soon as chemical is applied to hair

ALKALINE WAVES

• Main ingredient found in acid waves is glyceryl monothioglycolate

• More controlled curl and less damage to hair

• Heat sometimes used to assist penetration of hair structure

NEUTRALIZER

• Main ingredient is either hydrogen peroxide, sodium perborate or sodium bromate

ACID WAVES

Reduce curl in excessively curly or wavy hair by changing molecular structureReforming (Relaxing) Product: holds hair in straight position while being processed; in addition smoothing or pressing action is appliedNeutralizing Step: utilizes neutralizing shampoo or lotion; reduces swelling and causes hair to be held in straight configuration

RELAXERS

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |RELAXERS

Two popular types of products used to chemically relax hair:1. Sodium Hydroxide – 2% to 3% sodium

hydroxide in heavy cream base with pH from 11.5 to 14

2. Ammonium Thioglycolate – 4% to 6% thioglycolic acid; pH 8.5 to 9.5

RELAXERS

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |RELAXERS

CURL REFORMATION

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |CURL REFORMATION

Service used to loosen the texture of overly curly to tightly curled hair1. Thioglycolate-based product is applied2. Hair is smoothed using back of comb and fingers3. Thioglycolate product is rinsed from hair when straightened

shape is achieved4. Curl booster is applied along with perm rods to achieve

curl formation5. When test curl shows desired curl formation hair is rinsed6. Neutralizing lotion is applied to reform (fix) curl in lasting

GENERAL CATEGORIES• Nonoxidative Color• Oxidative Color• Lighteners• Developers• Vegetable, Metallic and

Compound Dyes

HAIR COLOR

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |HAIR COLOR

Oxidants (Developers): products that have ability to release oxygen, which is needed for chemical change

Oxidation: process where substance loses electron and oxygen is acquired Reduction: process where substance gains electron and oxygen is released

HAIR COLOR

Oxidative colors are mixedwith an oxidant (developer) such

as hydrogen peroxide

Nonoxidative colors are used straight from the bottle

TEMPORARY COLORS: nonreactive, direct dyes that coat the surface of hair shaft• Certified colors• Accepted by government for use in

foods, drugs and cosmetics• Only last until shampooed out

NONOXIDATIVE COLORS

SEMI-PERMANENT COLORS: dye molecules in a solution that are able to penetrate cuticle layer versus coating• Slightly more alkaline in pH than

temporary colors• Used straight from the bottle;

not mixed with oxidants • Last through several shampoos

NONOXIDATIVE COLORS

LONG-LASTING SEMI-PERMANENT COLORS: use low volume peroxide to develop color molecules and aid in color depositing• Add color to hair; cannot lift

or lighten• Available in liquid, cream and gel

OXIDATIVE COLORS

PERMANENT COLORS: penetrate cuticle and cortex, remain in hair until removed by chemical means or hair grows out and is cut off• Use oxidation system that starts out with

colorless molecules that combine with peroxide resulting in chemical reaction that builds colored molecules

• Can lighten natural color or deposit artificial color

OXIDATIVE COLORS

Bleaching or decolorizing• Involves oxidation of natural melanin in hair; causes

several color changes as pigment disperses and lightens hair to new level

• Uses peroxide and alkaline product such as ammonia

• Mix with peroxide immediately before application because only then is oxidation at full strength

LIGHTENERS

1. On-the-scalp lighteners (oil and cream)• Use ammonia to give high lift• Contain conditioners• Mild enough to apply directly on the scalp• pH about 9

2. Off-the-scalp lighteners (powder bleaches)• Stronger and faster than oil or cream lighteners• Can irritate scalp (burns and blisters)• pH about 10.3

LIGHTENERS

HYDROGEN PEROXIDE (H202): most common developer • Most often used strength is 20-volume • Comes in clear, cloudy,

creamy and gel forms• Has pH between 2.5 and 4.5• Requires storage in a cool,

dry place, shelf life of 3 years

DEVELOPERS

Less professional category of hair color; the more these colors are used the more color change takes placeHENNA• Is an example of a vegetable dye• Produces reddish highlights if

used in purest form• Allows hair to grow completely

out before any chemical service

VEGETABLE, METALLIC AND COMPOUND DYES

Pure metallic dyes• Incompatible with other

chemical services• Fade into unnatural shades

depending on metal used

Compound dyes are acombination of a vegetableand metallic dye

VEGETABLE, METALLIC AND COMPOUND DYES

MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEETS: contain special information about products from manufacturerAdditional information resources are:• Federal Drug Administration (FDA)• United States Pharmacopeia (U.S.P.)• International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary

PRODUCT INFORMATION

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |PRODUCT INFORMATION

• Ingredients listed on product label are in order of concentration with largest amount listed first

• More than 5,000 different ingredients are used by cosmetics industry

COSMETIC INGREDIENTS

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |PRODUCT INFORMATION

1. T or F Surfactants are used to remove oil from the hair.

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SELF-CHECK

SELF-CHECK

Match the term with the best description.2. __ All-Purpose Shampoos

3. __ “Plain” Shampoos

4. __ Medicated Shampoos

5. __ Anti-Dandruff Shampoos

6. __ Powder Dry Shampoos

a. For clients who are bedridden and cannot wet hair

b. Contain alkaline, not recommended for chemically treated hair

c. Cleanse hair without correcting any special condition

d. Formulated for either a dry or oily scalp

e. Contain ingredients designed to treat scalp and hair problems or disorders

SELF-CHECK7. Which of the following rinses leaves the hair with

a soft feel by adhering to the hair shaft and is only slightly acidic?a. lemonb. cremec. vinegard. medicated

8. Products that fortify damaged areas of hair and protect against further damage from chemical services or heat are called __________.

SELF-CHECK

9. All of the following statements regarding perms are true EXCEPT:a. perms allow hair designers to chemically reform hairb. two primary categories of perms are alkaline waves

and acid wavesc. main chemical ingredient found in alkaline waves is

glyceryl monothioglycolated. main ingredient found in most neutralizers is

either hydrogen peroxide, sodium perborate, or sodium bromate

SELF-CHECK

10.Sodium hydroxide and ammonium thioglycolate are the products called __________ that reduce curl in excessively curly hair by changing its molecular structure.

11.A soft curl perm loosens the texture of overly curly hair by:a.using a low volume peroxideb.using a thioglycolate-based productc.rinsing the sodium hydroxide relaxer with disulfided.following a thioglycolic relaxer with a sodium

hydroxide relaxer

SELF-CHECK

Match the term with the best description.12. __ Nonoxidative Colors

13. __ Oxidative Colors

14. __ Lightening

15. __ Developers

16. __ Vegetable, Metallic and Compound Dyes

a. Referred to as decolorizing and involves oxidation of natural melanin in the hair

b. Less professional category of hair color

c. Not mixed with oxidants and used straight from the bottle

d. Mixed with an oxidant such as hydrogen peroxide

e. Most common agent is hydrogen peroxide

SELF-CHECK17.When you read a product label, the ingredients are

listed in order of their ______________.

1. T or F Surfactants are used to remove oil from the hair.

SELF-CHECK

Match the term with the best description.2. __ All-Purpose Shampoos

3. __ “Plain” Shampoos

4. __ Medicated Shampoos

5. __ Anti-Dandruff Shampoos

6. __ Powder Dry Shampoos

a. For clients who are bedridden and cannot wet hair

b. Contain alkaline, not recommended for chemically treated hair

c. Cleanse hair without correcting any special condition

d. Formulated for either a dry or oily scalp

e. Contain ingredients designed to treat scalp and hair problems or disorders

SELF-CHECK7. Which of the following rinses leaves the hair with

a soft feel by adhering to the hair shaft and is only slightly acidic?a. lemonb. cremec. vinegard. medicated

8. Products that fortify damaged areas of hair and protect against further damage from chemical services or heat are called __________.

conditioners

SELF-CHECK

9. All of the following statements regarding perms are true EXCEPT:a. perms allow hair designers to chemically reform hairb. two primary categories of perms are alkaline waves

and acid wavesc. main chemical ingredient found in alkaline waves is

glyceryl monothioglycolated. main ingredient found in most neutralizers is

either hydrogen peroxide, sodium perborate, or sodium bromate

SELF-CHECK

10.Sodium hydroxide and ammonium thioglycolate are the products called __________ that reduce curl in excessively curly hair by changing its molecular structure.

11.A soft curl perm loosens the texture of overly curly hair by:a.using a low volume peroxideb.using a thioglycolate-based productc.rinsing the sodium hydroxide relaxer with disulfided.following a thioglycolic relaxer with a sodium

hydroxide relaxer

relaxers

SELF-CHECK

Match the term with the best description.12. __ Nonoxidative Colors

13. __ Oxidative Colors

14. __ Lightening

15. __ Developers

16. __ Vegetable, Metallic and Compound Dyes

a. Referred to as decolorizing and involves oxidation of natural melanin in the hair

b. Less professional category of hair color

c. Not mixed with oxidants and used straight from the bottle

d. Mixed with an oxidant such as hydrogen peroxide

e. Most common agent is hydrogen peroxide

SELF-CHECK17.When you read a product label, the ingredients are

listed in order of their ______________.

concentration

FACE THE FACTSCOSMETIC CLASSIFICATIONS Six classifications: solutions, suspensions, emulsions,

ointments, soaps, and powdersSHAMPOOS Contain surfactants that have water-loving part

(hydrophilic) and oil-loving part (lipophilic)

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |FACE THE FACTS

FACE THE FACTSRINSES AND CONDITIONERS Crème rinses adhere to hair shaft leaving hair with

a soft feel Conditioners fortify damaged areas of the hair and

protect it against further damage from chemical services or heat

PERMS Fall into two categories, alkaline waves and acid

waves, and allow hair designers to chemically reform hair into a wavy or curly formation

FACE THE FACTSRELAXERS Reduces curl in excessively curly or wavy hair by

changing its molecular structureCURL REFORMATION Uses thioglycolate-based products to relax overly curly

hair and then perm hair to achieve new curl formation HAIR COLOR Nonoxidative colors are not mixed with oxidants and are

used straight from the bottle Oxidative colors are mixed with hydrogen peroxide

FACE THE FACTS Lightening is also referred to as bleaching or decolorizing

and involves oxidation of the natural melanin in hair Hydrogen peroxide is most common developer

used in hair coloring and hair lighteningPRODUCT INFORMATION When you read a product label, the ingredients are listed

in the order of their concentration

LESSONS LEARNED The bonding of protein chains to other protein chains

makes human hair The pH scale indicates whether a substance is acidic,

neutral or alkaline to assist professionals in keeping the hair, skin and scalp in the best condition possible

Knowledge of the six classifications of cosmetics helps professionals understand product labels and usage directions

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | LESSONS LEARNED

SELF-TEST

CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | SELF-TEST

chapter 5 chemistry

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