buyer manual & measuring of 3 garments

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGYJODHPUR

APPAREL STANDARDS AND SPECIFICATIONS QUALITY CHECK

TOPIC- BUYER MANUAL AND HOW TO MEASURE THREE GARMENTS

SUBMITTED TO: SUBMITTED BY:Mr. Ishwar Kumar Muskan Jain(Assistant Professor) Raman Kumar Ravi Sanchalika Sadh Shilpy Gupta Vaishali Daksh Varun Pal

Buyer Quality Manual

A complete guide in miniature form which help in understanding the norms , procedure and standard to be followed while prosecuting an order for a particular buyer.

Necessities of a Quality manual

This Manual will guide Internal QA through each stage of their assignment: New production Monitoring production Performing In-process and shipment audits Communicating findings to merchandising /production representatives

Buyer Quality Manual…..For Vendor

Measuring the over-all performance of vendors who manufacture that buyer products.

Ensure vendors understand buyer expectations in categories such as Product’s visual appearance, Measurement accuracy And packing execution

Content of a Quality Manual…For Vendor

1.Fabric Technical data Fabric testing report Fabric washing instruction

Content of a Quality Manual..For Vendor

2. Wash Care Instruction Guidelines It will depend on the type of fabric. The manual will guide the

exporter regarding the requirement care instruction for that particular fabric.

Content of a Quality Manual

3. Fabric Inspection Guidelines and inspection report format

Roll ticket information Fabric quantity to be inspected Fabric inspection report Equipment Color continuity record Inspection procedure

Content of a Quality Manual

4. Minimum manufacturing requirements for knitted or Woven garments

Stitch and seam type Machinery requirement Embellishment safety Trim and accessories attaching and precaution

Content of a Quality Manual

5. Wash test performance Evaluate the care instruction Measure the garment before wash Twisting Attach staining cloth Perform dry/wet rubbing Iron/stretch the garment

Content of a Quality Manual

6. Fabric Shade Record Fabric description Color Description Light used Shade Coming Roll No Roll Qty Total Qty in that particular shade Country Planned

Content of a Quality Manual..For Vendor

7. Folding and Packing Instruction Maximum and minimum Weight of carton

Content of a Quality Manual

8.LABELLING /MARKING on Carton Cartons or garment bags are to be externally clearly marked with: Brand Name (ie Target, Kmart, etc) Name of Country specific (ie Australia or New Zealand) Port of Discharge (ie Melbourne) Order Number Quantity per outer pack Made in (Country of Origin) Carton number (ie …….of…) Gross carton weight Placement of sticker on carton(either top or front)

Content of a Quality Manual

PROTECTIVE POLY BAG Suppliers are required to comply with the following polybag/carton liner standards. Polybags /carton liners must be free of Butylated Hydroxyl/toluene (BHT). Garments must have no more than 6cm to 12cm excess at the bottom and should be heat

sealed or taped closed. Poly bags must be wide enough and long enough to cover the garment without wrinkling.

Warnings on Poly Bags and Carton Liners The number of print repeats is optional Font size

Content of a Quality Manual…For Vendor

Folding Technique Flat Pack Dead Man Fold Half Fold

Content of a Quality Manual… For Buyer QA

1. Factory Visit ProceduresBefore visiting a factory, a internal QA representative must carry out the following:

Verify vendor is on Global Compliance’s approved vendor list. Obtain factory contact name, phone number and address. Obtain copies of Purchase Orders. Secure fabric/yarn color swatches and/or hand and finish standards. Obtain the approved sample. Obtain manufacturing specifications, including Garment Specification Sheet (GSS). Obtain all additional reports relative to production being inspected, such as memos and

faxes as well as product/fabric/component testing reports. Obtain approved production schedule

Content of a Quality Manual… For Buyer QA

AQL to be Followed for particular product type. A manual Differentiate between critical, major and minor Defect

Content of a Quality Manual… For Buyer QA

In process inspection

In-process inspection forms In-Process Inspection Report In-Process Audit Worksheet In-Process Graphics Worksheet (optional)

Content of a Quality Manual… For Buyer QA

Cutting Inspection Procedures Verify and record fabric test reports. Perform visual and measurement (i.e. top to bottom ply, hard pattern to cut

pieces) Inspection of cut parts using the In-Process Visual Inspection Report. Discuss the problems found and recommend solutions to factory management. If the factory can not correct the problem, the merchandiser/production

representative should be contacted for corrective action. If questions regarding specifications, fabric/material standard, color, etc. arise,

the merchandiser/production representative should be contacted for corrective action

Content of a Quality Manual… For Buyer QA

Various Audit Packing Audit Visual audit

Content of a Quality Manual… For Buyer QA

Trim & Sewing Inspection Procedures All fabric/components/trims/labels should be checked against production

approved standards, and must reflect correct country of origin and fiber/component content.

Check to be sure that all components/trims/labels are available so production schedules can be met.

Perform random check in sewing lines/finishing. Verify factory is checking at least six pieces of each operator’s semi-finished goods to check for workmanship defects. Record finding on the appropriate In-process inspection report.

Check hand/color against approved standards.

Content of a Quality Manual… For Buyer QA

Measure placement and size of pattern pieces against specification sheet. Check seam construction, thread color and size against specification sheet. Check that all small parts are securely attached. Record and indicate any problems in the space provided in the In-Process

Visual Inspection Worksheet Discuss the problems found and recommend solutions to factory

management. If the factory cannot correct the problem, the merchandiser/production

representative should be contacted

How to measure men’s formal shirt

COLLARMeasure your collar size by placing the tape from one end of the collar to other end. To get the most comfortable fit, place two fingers between the tape measure and the neck when measuring.

SLEEVE Sleeve measurements are obtained by measuring from the top shoulder seam to the cuff as shown.

CHESTTake the tape measure and wrap it around the widest part of your chest. Keep the tape measure straight and level at back and parallel to ground.

WAISTMeasure around your natural waistline which is the narrowest part of your waist.

LENGTH Length measurements are obtained by measuring the length of the shirt from the top of the shoulder to the hemline of the shirt as shown.

How to measure men’s trouser

HALF WAIST - Button up the pants. - Lay the garment out on a flat surface.Take care to pull any wrinkles and fullness from the back panels. - Measure from one side of the waist to the other

HALF HIPS - Measure the distance between the two hip points “C” & “D” as shown by image on the left.

FRONT RISE - Measure from the crotch seam – point “K” as shown in the left image(the point where the inseams meet) to the top of the waistband (point “L”).

BACK RISE - Measure from the crotch seam- point “K” in the image on the left (the point where the inseams meet) to the top of the waistband (point “M”).

INSEAM - Measure the inseam distance from Crotch, where the front and backseams meet, point “G” to the bottom of the leg, point “H”, at the length you wish to wear bearing in mind whether you wish to cover the boots or shoes.

HALF THIGH - Measure at the crotch seam line – from point “E” as shown on the left image to the outside of the leg, point “F”, parallel to the waist band.

OUTSEAM/ PANT LENGTH - Measure the distance from the top of the waist band to the bottom of the hem.

HALF KNEE - The knee is positioned about 13” from the crotch seam halfway down. Measure the distance between points “N” and “O” as shown in the picture on the left.

HALF HEM/ LEG OPENING - Measure from one side of the leg opening to the other side – from points “P” to “Q” as shown in the picture on the left.

How to measure women’s top

BUSTThe top is measured across the chest.The measurement is taken from side seam to side seam directly under the armhole or sleeve. In the picture below the measurement is 18". This measurement is then doubled to provide a measurement of  Bust - 36"

SHOULDER Shoulder measurements are obtained by measuring across the shoulders, seam to seam, as shown below. The measurement in this case would be shown as Shoulder - 16".

SLEEVE Sleeve measurements are obtained by measuring from the top shoulder seam to the cuff as shown below. The measurement in this case would be shown as Sleeve - 15".

LENGTH Length measurements are obtained by measuring the length of the top from the top of the shoulder to the hemline as shown. The measurement in this case would be shown as Length - 27"

Thank You