AlsobyArdieA.Davis

TheKansasCityBBQPocketGuide

TheGreatBBQSauceBook

TechniquesforGrilling:25Essentials

TechniquesforSmoking:25Essentials

AlsobyPaulKirk

PaulKirk’sChampionshipBarbecue

PaulKirk’sChampionshipBarbecueSauces

SmokeIt!

500BarbecueBites

TheBigGrill

America’sBestBBQ©2009byArdieA.DavisandPaulKirk.PrintedinChina.Nopartofthisbookmaybeusedorreproducedinanymannerwhatsoeverwithoutwrittenpermissionexceptinthecaseofreprintsinthecontextofreviews.Forinformation,writeAndrewsMcMeelPublishing,LLC,anAndrewsMcMeelUniversalcompany,1130WalnutStreet,KansasCity,Missouri64106.

LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationDataDavis,ArdieA.America’sbestBBQ:100recipesfromAmerica’sbestsmokehouses,pits,shacks,ribjoints,roadhouses,andrestaurants/ArdieA.Davis&PaulKirk.—1sted.

p.cm.E-ISBN:978-0-74079022-51.Barbecuecookery—UnitedStates.I.Kirk,Paul,1941-II.Title.TX840.B3D3432009641.7′6—dc22

2008047428

www.andrewsmcmeel.com

CoverdesignbyTimLynchFrontcoverphotobyDavidMorrisATTENTION:SCHOOLSANDBUSINESSESAndrewsMcMeelbooksareavailableatquantitydiscountswithbulkpurchaseforeducational,business,orsalespromotionaluse.Forinformation,pleasewriteto:SpecialSalesDepartment,AndrewsMcMeelPublishing,LLC,1130WalnutStreet,KansasCity,Missouri64106.specialsales@amuniversal.com

ForGretchen.Ardie

ForJessica.Paul

Contents

AcknowledgmentsIntroductionChapter1.StartersChapter2.MainDishesChapter3.SidesandCondimentsChapter4.DessertsOurFavoriteBarbecueRestaurantsLegacyRecipesBarbecueBasicsSoYouwanttoStartaBarbecueBusiness?JointsWeLiketoVisitJointsWe’dLiketoVisitPhotoCreditsAbouttheAuthors

WACKNOWLEDGMENTS

e’ve done research for this book for a collective total ofmore than a hundred years, although when we each gothooked by barbecue, we didn’t have this book in mind.

Thankstoouragent,DennisHayes,wegotanofferfromKirstyMelvilleatAndrewsMcMeelthatwecouldn’tturndown.Twoyearslaterwehadabook!

We owe a debt of gratitude to our wives, children, and extendedfamily for tolerating the time we spent researching and writing tocomplete thisproject.Extradosesof toleranceandunderstandingwererequiredfromourwives.Thusyou’llseetheirnamesonthededicationpage.

Inallhumanendeavorswestandontheshouldersofthosewhohavegonebeforeus.This is especially true in theculinary realm.Thereforeweoffera tipof thehatandasincere thanks to themillionsofcooks,known and unknown, who have advanced today’s culinary arts,especiallybarbecue,fromhumankind’sprimalbeginnings.

ThankstobarbecuefriendsSteveHolbrook,VinceStaten,JohnRaven,JohnnyWhite,TonyStone,DonMcLemore,ChrisLilly,DavidKlose,BillandBarbaraMilroy,Guy Simpson,CarolynWells, Judith Fertig,KarenAdler,RichDavis,JohnWillingham,RickBrowne,BruceBjorkman,LolisEricElie,RolandCarrier,PaulaPeck,BobLyon,ChefLouisSzathmary,and many others. Gary Wells, Al Lawson, Cousin Homer, JimQuessenberry, and Giancarlo Gianelli and other late pitmaster friends,wewillalwaysmissyou.Mayyourestinpeace.

SpecialthankstoDennisHayes,ourfriend,ourbarbecuebuddy,andnowour agent.Dennishad the idea for thisbookmore thanadecadeago.Thisbookisdueinlargeparttohisvisionandpersistenceandhispassionforgoodeats,barbecueinparticular.

Finally,ithasbeenfunandapleasuretoworkwiththeBookDivision

team at AndrewsMcMeel. Kirsty Melville, head of the Book Division,LaneButler,oureditor,ourhatsareofftoyou,TimLynch,DianeMarsh,BlakeStevens,JohnCarroll,andthemarketingteam!

AINTRODUCTION

mixofcarsandtrucksisparkedhere.Cadillacs,rustypickups,fancySUVs,vans,flashynewpickups,sportscars,limos,sedans—they are all here for one reason: the barbecue. Out back

there’shickory,oak,pecan,apple,ormesquite,scrambledlikeit’sreadyforbusiness.Forgetneatness.Thisisaworkingwoodpile.

Customers are lined up outside the door at 11:15 in the morning.Inside, thepeoplearehappy.The joint isalreadycrowded.Bepatient.You’llgetaseat.Smellthebarbecuewhiledinersdiginwithgusto.Soonyou’ll be chowing down onAmerica’s best barbecue—slatheredmeats,crunchyfries,cornbread,coleslaw,beans,andotherdelectableeats.It’sworththewait.

This book honors American barbecue and the people who make it.Hereyou’ll findmorethan100recipes forout-of-this-worldappetizers,tenderand smokymeats cooked lowand slow, sweet and spicy saucesand rubs, homemade sides, and even a few decadent down-homedesserts—ifyou’vesavedroom.Andbecausefoodtastesbetterwhenyouknowthepeopleandstoriesbehind the recipes,we’ll introduceyou tosome famous andnot-so-famous pitmasters andbarbecuepersonalities,livinganddead.Somecomefromlong linesofproudpitmasters, somehavebeenatthecraftmostoftheirlives,andothersareup-and-comingbarbecuers.Allviewbarbecueasanartandacraft.It’snotajob,it’sa

profession,andtheytakegreatcaretoensurethateachday’sbarbecueisevenbetterthanthelast.

The next best thing to being at one of the best barbecue joints inAmericaistogetitdirect—iftheywillshipittoyou.Manyoftheplacesin this book sell their sauces, rubs, and other products by phone andonline.Welisttheaddress,phonenumber,andWebsitewhenavailablesothatyoucanbuydirectfromthesourceandtryitforyourself.

Another great way to enjoy America’s best barbecue is to cook ityourself. The usual drillwhenwriters visit a barbecue joint is to takesomephotos, sample somedishes, thenpublishaknockoff recipe fromthemenu.Wheneverpossible,ourrecipesandtechniquescomestraightfromthesource.Afrequentreplywhenweaskedforarecipewas,“IfItellyou,I’llhavetoshootyou”or“Sorry.Ourrecipesaretradesecrets.Wedon’tgivethemout.”Weexpectedtohearthat,andoftenenoughwedid—especiallywhenwewerestrangerstotheowner.Then“No”turnedto “Okay,” or “Sure, I’ll give you our recipe,” after we got betteracquainted.“Yes”wasinstantfrommostpitmasterswhoknowus.We’rehonoredtoknowquiteafew,andmanyarefriends.Manyoftherecipesthatweregiventoushaveneverbeenpublishedbefore.Whenoriginaltop-secret recipes were denied us, and we thought you would likesomething similar,wecameupwithourownversion, thanks toPaul’stalentsasachampionshippitmasterandacertifiedworkingchef.

Webring a lot of baggage to this book.We’ve been involved in thebusiness, sport,andartofbarbecue formore than fiftyyearseach.We

havemanyfriendsinbarbecue.Paulalsodoesalotofconsultingandisinvolved inseveralrestaurants. It’sadauntingtasktoselectahundredplacesoutofmorethaneightthousand.It’salittlesubjective,maybenotaltogether fair. Occasionally we’re influenced by the mystique orpersonalgoodmemoriesofaplaceorboth.Ourchoicesreflectourpriorknowledge of barbecue joints across the nation and recommendationsfrom trusted friends, family, colleagues, and fanswhoheardabout thebook and told us about placeswe should try.We also checked books,articles,andonlinesourcesfortips.

Manybarbecuebooksratejointswithnumbers;othersratewithstars,rib bones, or other symbols. The bottom line is that all ratings aresubjective, includingours,and thatcould serveupa littlecontroversy.Ourtop100arenotrankedfrom1,best,to100,lessgoodthantheother99.Each joint in thisbook is, inourview,oneof thebest inAmerica.They are all on the same playing field, with varying strengths andweaknesses.Thataside,wehaveeachnamedourTopTenjointsattheback of the book, the ones we feel are the best in America. If yourfavoritebarbecuejointisn’tinhere,maybewehaven’ttriedit,ormaybewe tried it and didn’t like it. You will agree with us sometimes, andsometimesyouwon’t.Wedon’tevenalwaysagreewitheachotheraboutaparticularplace.Wegetoverit,andsowillyou!

Themenu is similar across America’s barbecue joints, with regionalvariations.Thestandardmeatsareporkribs,beefbrisket,porkshoulder,sausage, chicken, and turkey. A few places serve duck, and we wishmorewould.Somesouthernjointsofferporkonly.InpartsofKentuckythefeaturedmeatislambormutton.Youcangetcabrito(goat)atmanyTexasbarbecue joints.We’ve includedagoodmixofmaindishes, andwhile most of the recipes come from Kansas City and the so-calledbarbecuebelt fromNorthCarolina toTexas,we’ve loosened thebelt anotch or two to include a few recipes from places like Vermont, NewMexico,Washington,NewYork,andCalifornia.Peopleeverywhereloveandappreciategoodbarbecue.

Atmostbarbecuejoints,youcanexpectstarters,sandwiches,dinners,sides,anddessert.Someservebreakfast,but, toour regret,wehaven’t

found one that serves barbecue for breakfast. Meat is the heart ofbarbecue,andmanyjointsthesedaystreatstarters,sides,anddessertsasafterthoughts, serving labor-saving dishes from off-premise suppliers.Realmade-from-scratchAmericanbarbecue starters, sides,anddessertsarestillout there,however.We justdon’t findasmanyasweusedto.Buttheonesyou’llfindinthechaptersinthisbookaretherealdealandthereforeexamplesofthebestyou’llfindoutthere.

Morethanjustyourstandardribs,beans,andcoleslaw(thoughplentyofthoseareincluded,too),America’sBestBBQalsoincludesrecipesforburgoo, gumbo, Rocky Mountain oysters, barbecue brisket nachos,smoked catfish, barbecued baloney, bison ribs, barbecue spaghetti, pigsalad,friedpeachpie,barbecuesundae,andmanymorerecipesthatwilldrivebarbecuefanshogwild.

PickingtheBest

We’re picky about some things and lenient on others. We used twomain standards in selecting the best barbecue joints. First, barbecuejointsshouldspecializeinbarbecue,notjustabarbecueitemortwoaspart of a largermenu of nonbarbecue foods. (Admittedly, though, weoccasionallyfudgeonthisifwereallylikethejoint!)Second,we’reOKwith gas or electric assist, but the cooking fuel should be wood orcharcoal. Our only exception is eastern North Carolina whole-hogcooking. Increasing numbers of barbecue joints there have switchedfrom wood to gas. Since little if any smoke penetrates a whole hogduring cooking with wood or charcoal, we’re OK with that. It’s thequality of the hog, the cooking procedure, the sauce, and thepresentationthatmakeonewholehogdifferentfromanother.

We judge starters on appeal and taste. Many barbecue joints don’tofferstarters, finding that theircustomers fillup just fineonmeatandsides. Those that do serve starters know that they have to be prettytempting tomake folks risk fillingupbefore theyevenreach themainevent.FromBrunswickstewtofriedcheesegrits,andmore,thestartersinthisbookmeetthatstandard.

Wejudgemaindishesonappearance,tenderness,andtaste.Whetherservedonpaper,plastic,Styrofoam,orfinechina,themeatitselfhastohave eye appeal,with good color and texture. Tenderness is key. Youshouldbeabletocutgoodbarbecuemeatwithaplasticknifeandfork.We loveHouseParkBarbecue’s slogan, “Needno teef toeatmybeef,”and Stevenson’s Bar-B-Que proclaims their meat is, “Tender as amother’s love.” That’s just how it should be. The best barbecue jointsserve moist, flavorful meat that isn’t overpowered by seasonings.Seasonings should only complement the meat flavor. All of therestaurantsineverychapterofthisbookexcelatthemeatandbonesofbarbecue—literally.

Wejudgesidesonappearanceandtaste.Theyshouldlookgoodandcomplementthemeatwithoutovershadowingit.Aswithstarters,agoodsidemakes youwant to save a little room, and here you’ll find somestandout recipes for such classic favorites as beans, slaw, and potatosalad, as well as some unique sides we’ve discovered in our barbecuetravels,suchastheVanizedPotatoandsomejalapeñohushpuppies.

We judge desserts on appearance and taste. Things like just howdecadent and fattening they arenever come intoplay.Wedon’t knowtheconnectionbetweenbananasandbarbecue,butagoodmanyjointsservebananadesserts,andwe’veincludedafewhere—bananapudding,banana cream pie, bananas Foster. You’ll also find the fried pies soubiquitous in the South, cobbler and crisp, homemade ice cream, andmore.Agooddessertmakesussay,“Ishouldn’thaveeatenthat,butI’msuregladIdid,”andyouwon’tregretoverdoingitwithanyoneofthedessertsinthisbook.

Valueispartoftheoverallequationforanyrestaurant—goodquality,good portions, and a good price. Everything on the menu needn’t begreat.Someplacesexcel incookingonemeatand fall shortonothers,but overall, the restaurants in this book are equals. Portions aren’tusuallyaproblematbarbecuejoints,butthebestplacesmakeyouwanttofilluponalittlebitofeverything—andthengobackformore.Priceisalsoasmallfactor,butsincebarbecueplacesusuallyaren’tfancy,youusually get a good deal for your meal. Most places even offer dailyspecials.

Service is important, too. Contrary to what people who have neverwaited tables may think, it is not an easy job that anyone could do.We’ve both waited tables, so we know. Building rapport with a widevariety of customers and orchestrating the complete dining experiencerequiressmartworkandhardwork.Agoodservercaneventellusaboutthepit, thesmoke,andthecookingprocedures.Tippingisn’tnecessaryatmany barbecue joints because they serve on an order/pickup basis,butwhenyouhavecompetent servers, it’snice to reward themwithagenerousgratuity.Theyearnit.

Ambience is intangible, andmost jointswith ambience aren’t fancy.They should be welcoming and comfortable. The place should feelspecialandmakeyougladyou’rethereandwanttocomeback.AsourbarbecuebuddyEldertWalkeralwayssaysathisrestaurant,“Comeforthe food. Leavewith the experience.”We’ve tried to capture asmuchambience as possible in the pages of this book,with stories about therestaurants and owners, sidebars on barbecue culture and trivia, andhundreds of full-color photos that we’ve collected through decades oftraveltorestaurantsandcontests.

Abarbecuejoint’slongevityorfameisoflessimportancetous.We’vebeen to famous old places that are past their heyday and living on areputationnolongerdeserved.Ofthefewchainsthatappearhere,thereisnoguaranteethatthequalitywefoundattherestaurantlistedwillbeexactly the sameat other locations in the chain.Newor old, chainornot,whatmattersmost is thequality of the food, the service, and theambience.

Most of the recipes in this book are scaled down for home-sizeentertaining, though several will serve a crowd. After all, barbecue isbest when shared. And when you’re putting that much time and careinto your cooking, it should—and will—be appreciated by as manypeopleaspossible.There’snothing likeabackyardcookout, somecolddrinks, and some hot, smoky barbecue to bring families, friends, andneighborstogetheraroundthetable.

Ifyou’renewtobarbecue,there’sasectioncalledBarbecueBasicsat

thebackofthebook.Itwillgiveyouthelowdownonbarbecueandtellyou what you need to know to select, maintain, and use gas andcharcoal grills.A fewof the recipes call for precookedmeat, sowe’veincludedsomebasicmeatcookinginstructions,too.Therearealsoalotoftipsandtrickswe’vepickedupovertheyears,soseasonedbarbecuersmaywant to takea look.There’s even some informationonmeat cutsandmeatdonenesstoensuresafeandpropercooking.

When you use the recipes here, remember that barbecue is aboutmakingityourown.Onecookandanother, followingthesamerecipe,will not come up with two dishes that taste exactly the same. Theprofessionalswhocontributedtherecipestothisbookuseprofessional-grade equipment, and the resultsmight not be exactly the same on ahomegrill,butyou’llstillendupwithsomefantasticbarbecue,andthetips,techniques,andtricksfromtheserenownedpitmasterscancrankupyourbarbecuetonewheightsofgreatness.

We’ve been fortunate to live lives steeped in barbecue—its history,lore, culture, traditions,andmethods.Someofour recipesmay triggergoodmemoriesofplacesyou’vebeen.Somemayintroduceyoutoplacesyou’llwant tovisit. If you can’t get to theplaces yourself, this canbeyourarmchairtourofthebestswinediningestablishmentsinAmerica,andwehopeyouhaveasmuchfunreadingitaswe’vehadputtingitalltogether.Sopullupachair,grabaWet-Nap,anddivein.

Starters

Starters, or appetizers, should jump-start yourappetite.Somewill fill youupbeforeyouget to the

maincourseanddessert.Welikebothkinds—starters

thatjump-startandstartersthatfill.

As a rule, many places don’t put starters on the

menu. Many equate sides with starters, and some

offer smaller portions of certain sides as a starter,

such as a cup of gumbo or Brunswick stew. We’ve

founda fewunusual starters, suchasAtomicBuffalo

Poppers, RMOs (Rocky Mountain Oysters), fried

pickles, anddeep-friedbacon.Thebest starters have

eye appeal—they look delicious and shout, “You’re

goingtolovethis!”—complementtherestandsetyou

up for the foods that follow, and have come-back

appealthatmakesyouwantmore.

Wehavea feastofstarters foryouinthischapter.

AsWoodyGuthrieusedtosay,“Takeiteasy,buttake

it!”

OnionStrings

RUB(RighteousUrbanBarbecue)

S

RUB(RighteousUrbanBarbecue)208W.23rdSt.NewYork,NY10011212-524-4300http://www.rubbbq.net

incePauldevelopedthemenuandrecipesandtrainedthekitchenstaff, and his name and caricature is all over the joint, thedecision to put Righteous Urban Barbecue (RUB) here was

Ardie’s,andhepicked thisplaceon itsownmerits.RUB isanoasisofrealbarbecueinacitywithamixofrealandfakebarbecue.Ardiehaseatenat several joints inNewYorkCity that serveoven-roastedmeatsslatheredwithbarbecuesauceandcallitbarbecue.Heimaginesacookinthesekitchenssinging,“Woodisjustafour-letterword,”tothetuneoftheBobDylanclassic.Giveusrealhardwoodsmokeinourbarbecue—notliquidsmoke.RUBisn’ttheonlyrealbarbecueintown,andsomeother New York City favorites are in here aswell, but RUB is Ardie’sfavoritethusfar.

RUB barbecue is cooked to perfection. It looks real and tastes realbecauseitisreal.Ardieorderedonionstringsasanappetizer,andtheywere so delicious he had to push the plate away to avoid filling upbefore his pulled pork sandwich arrived. Thin, lightly battered, deep-fried,andsprinkledwithPaul’saward-winningrub,amouthfulofthesecrispystrawswillputasmileonyourfaceandwilldefinitelyjump-startyourappetite.

ONIONSTRINGS

Serves6to8

1largeyellowonion

1quartwholemilk

8cups(2pounds)all-purposeflour

1tablespoonsalt

1tablespoonfinelygroundblackpepper

Lardorcanolaoil,fordeep-frying

Barbecuerub

Slicetheonionscrosswiseasthinasyoucan,about inchthick.If

youhaveamechanicalmeatslicer,setiton2or3,dependingon

yourmachine.Separate theonion slices,place inabowlorother

container,pourthemilkoverthestrings,andtossgentlytocover.

If themilkdoesnotcovertheonions,addwater.Covertheonion

mixtureandrefrigerateforatleast3hoursorovernight.

Putthelardoroilinyourdeep-fryerandpreheatto350°F(orina

deep pot and measure the oil temperature with a deep-frying

thermometer).Combinetheflour,salt,andpepperinalargebowl

and blend well. Remove a handful of onions from the milk

marinade, shaking off any excess. Place the onions in the flour

mixture,scattersomeoftheflourontopofthestrings,andtossto

coat thoroughly. Shake off any excess flour. Deep-fry the strings

until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes, separating the strings with

metaltongs.Drainonpapertowelsandsprinklewithyourfavorite

rubtotaste.Repeatwiththerestoftheonionstringsandservehot.

OnionRings

Leonard’sPitBarbecue5465FoxPlazaDr.

LMemphis,TN38115901-360-1963http://www.leonardsbarbecue.com

eonard’s is aMemphis barbecue icon. It bears the name of thefounder,LeonardHeuberger,whoopenedtheplacein1922.His5-cent barbecue pulled pork sandwiches, sauced with vinegar,

tomato, and spices, then topped with coleslaw, became a Memphisstandard. Leonard’s sandwich with onion rings on the side has beenpopularever since.Sopopular, indeed, thatLeonard’smoved to largerquartersandbecamethelargestdrive-inrestaurantanywhere.Accordingto themanystoriesyoucanhearatLeonard’s,Elvisate there fromhisteenyearsonward,oftenpartyingwithfriendsuntildaybreak.

Dan Brown owns today’s Leonard’s. He has worked there since histeen years and learned the business, recipes, cooking procedures, andtraditions directly fromMr. Heuberger. Our recipe for the home cooktastessimilartowhatyou’llgetatLeonard’s,butdon’tmissthegenuineitemonyournexttriptoMemphis.

ONIONRINGS

Serves6to8

1½cupsall-purposeflour

¼cupcornmeal

¼cuponionpowder

1teaspoonsugar

2teaspoonssalt

1½to1 cupsmilk,ormoreasneeded

1largeegg

Canolaoil,fordeep-frying

4largeonions,slicedinto½-inchrings

Put the flour, cornmeal, onion powder, sugar, and salt in a large

bowl.Add1½cupsmilk, theegg,and1½cupwater.Whiskuntil

only slightly lumpy. It should have the consistency of pancake

batter.Ifit’stoothick,add¼cupmilkormoretothinitdown.

Put the oil in your deep-fryer and preheat to 365°-375°F (or in a

deep pot and measure the oil temperature with a deep-frying

thermometer).Diptheonionringsinthebatter.Fry3or4coated

rings at a time, turning the rings when they float to the top.

Continue turning the rings until they are golden brown, 3 to 5

minutes. Remove the rings from the grease and drain on paper

towels.Serveimmediately.

ARDIE’SBARBECUEPOSTCARDSPostcardsthrivetoday,contrarytopredictionsthate-mail, text messaging, and cell phone-transmitted

photos, videos, and conversations would put the

postcard industry out of business. Anywhere you

travelyou’ll findpostcards featuring local scenery to

send home to friends and relatives. You’re home

before the card arrives, but the recipients know you

thoughtaboutthemwhileyouwereaway.

Postcardswere in theirheyday in theearly1900s.

Travelbyautowasthenorm.Mostofthe608million

postcardsmailed in1908hit thedesignatedmailbox

wellbeforethesenderreturnedhome.Todaythere’sa

hugenetworkofpostcardcollectors,a.k.a.deltiologists.

Somecollect,trade,orsellcardsonmanysubjectsor

locales.Othersfocusonafeworonecategory.Ardie

collectsbarbecuepostcards.HisfriendKenWilsonin

DrippingSprings,Texas,gothimhooked,blessKen’s

soul.Kenhas thousandsofpostcards.He isactive in

the nationwide network of postcard collectors who

meetinpersonandonlinetoswaporsellcards.

Barbecue postcards are hard to find. Ardie has

scanned hundreds of boxes of cards in flea markets

and antique stores to no avail. Ken found most of

Ardie’s cards at postcard collector shows. Some are

older, and some are from contemporary barbecue

joints. Postcards are an important part of modern

barbecuehistory. Theybelong in aBarbecueHall of

FameorMuseum,ifarealoneevergetslegs.Allare

treasures.HereareafewofArdie’sfavorites:

GrandOpening,April17,Koppen’sRoadsideBar-B-Que(1948)

The9thWonderoftheWorld,Curtis’AllAmericanBar-B-QChickenandRibs,Putney,VT

OklahomaJoe’s,Albuquerque

HogHeaven,SanFrancisco—“CorneredbyaBoar”

EatFreeBarbecuedBuffaloandDancetotheMusicofAlMenke’sOrchestraatGaylord,Sunday,October9

W

BarbecueatWillRogers’sRanch,SantaMonica

BrisketNachos

Tom’sRibsNorthCentralSanAntonio121N.Loop1604WestatStoneOakSanAntonio,TX78232210-404-RIBS(7427)http://www.tomsribs.com/home.html

e’ve foundgreatnachosatbarbecue jointsacrossAmerica.Tom’s are delicious! Imagine noshing on tostada chipstopped with chopped barbecued brisket, warm chile con

queso,shreddedcheddarandJackcheeses,andTom’sfreshsalsa.Here’sourversiontomakeathome.Itisagreatpartyplatterorplate.

BRISKETNACHOS

Serves4to6

3ouncestricoloredtortillachips

¼poundchoppedbarbecuedbrisket(page208)

½cupquesosauce

½cupcookedordrainedcannedpintobeans

½cupshreddedcheddarcheese

½cupshreddedMontereyJackcheese

½ cup homemade salsa or your favorite restaurant or store-

boughtsalsa

Preheattheovento400°F.Placethechipsonanovenproofserving

plate, then top with half of the brisket, queso sauce, and pinto

beans. Repeat with another layer of each, then top with both

cheesesandthesalsa.Bakefor2to3minutes,oruntilthecheeseis

melted.Servewarm.

DeviledEggs

MissMyra’sPitBBQ3278CahabaHeightsRd.

PCahabaHeights,AL35243205-967-6004

aullovesdeviledeggs,andwhenheheardaboutMissMyra’sPitBBQ Deviled Eggs, his mouth watered. While he was initiallydisappointed to learn that thedeviledeggs, likemenu itemsat

mostrestaurants,arenamedfortherestaurant,notthecookingmethod,hereallyenjoyedthem,findingthemalittledifferentfrommost.

MissMyra’sdoesserverealpithickory-smokedbarbecue,cookedinacustom-builtbrickpit at the restaurant,whichwasopened in1984byMyra Grissom and her late husband. Today it is still a family-runoperation.Myra’s daughter,RennaeWheat, andhusband,BuckWheat,along with Rennae and Buck’s daughter, Myra, and an aunt, HelenGilbert, keep the busy restaurant going. Myra Grissom still comes toworkbuthascutbackonherworkhours.

Although barbecued pork butt is the bestseller, the ribs, beef, andchicken with the famous Alabama white sauce (mayo, vinegar, andspices)holdtheirownwithcustomers.MissMyra’sisajointwhereyoudefinitelywant to save room for dessert. Try each of the six differentpies,plustwopoundcakesandbananapudding,ateachvisit;thenpickaregularfavorite.Becarefulifyoustartwithpoundcake,though.It’ssogood youmay never get past it, butwe strongly suggest you give theothersachance.Verygoodeats!

DEVILEDEGGS

Makes1dozen

6largeeggs

3tablespoonsmayonnaise

1tablespoonsweetpicklerelish

1teaspoonWorcestershiresauce

1teaspoondistilledwhitevinegar

Saltandblackpepper

Paprika,forgarnish

Pimiento-stuffedgreenolives,forgarnish

Put the eggs in a saucepan and coverwith coldwater. Bring the

water to a boil and immediately remove the pan from the heat.

Cover and let the eggs stand in hot water for 10 to 12minutes.

Removefromthehotwaterandrunundercoldwatertocool.Peel

theeggsandcutinhalflengthwise.

Carefully remove the yolks from the eggs and put them into a

medium bowl. Scoop out and discard a little bit of the white to

make a more generous cup for filling. Mash the egg yolks,

mayonnaise, relish, Worcestershire sauce, and vinegar to make a

smoothmixture.Seasonthemixturewithsaltandpeppertotaste.

Spoonthemixtureintotheeggwhitesorpipewithapastrybagfor

amore elegant look. Garnish with a sprinkle of paprika and top

someoftheeggswithasliceofpimiento-stuffedgreenolive.Chill

andserve.

BrunswickStew

JohnnyHarrisRestaurant&BarbecueSauceCompany1651E.VictoryDr.

PSavannah,GA31404912-354-7810http://www.johnnyharris.com

hil Donaldson, second-generation owner of Johnny HarrisRestaurant & Barbecue Sauce Company, is one of the last truesouthern gentlemen. It is no surprise that the entire Johnny

HarrisrestaurantexudesPhil’ssignaturesouthernhospitality.

TherestauranthasbeenaSavannahlandmarkandfavoriteeatsplacesincethe1920s.Youcangetitshistoryonlineoron-site,butwhat’sbesttodoisgetsomeJohnnyHarrisbarbecue.Weliketheribs,pulledpork,chicken,andallthesidesatJohnnyHarris.

We’ve been fans since we first tasted Johnny Harris Original saucealmost threedecadesago.Thesauce’s full-bodied, intense flavorcomesfromtheFrench-stylereductionprocess,bywhichthesauceissimmereduntilithasaboutathirdlessvolumethanitstartedoutwith.Thismakesa rich, hearty complement to the barbecue. A small portion is all youneed.

Johnny Harris sauce also stars in the restaurant’s Brunswick Stew.Thereisnonebetter.Don’teventhinkaboutsubstitutinganothersauce.Philsaysthisis“themainingredient,”sogettheoriginalJohnnyHarris.Ifyou’renotinSavannah,orderitonline.HatsoffandapplausetoPhilDonaldsonforsharingthisrecipe!

BRUNSWICKSTEW

Serves10to12

1poundsmokedpork,cookedanddiced

1poundsmokedchicken,diced

½teaspoonblackpepper

½teaspoonhotredpepperflakes

1teaspoonhotsauce,ortotaste

2tablespoonsmincedonion

1½cupsketchup

3cupsdiced,peeled,cookedpotatoes

3(15-to16-ounce)cansnibletcorn

½cuppreparedyellowmustard

2tablespoonssalt

½cupwhitevinegar

JohnnyHarrisOriginalbarbecuesauce,totaste

Putalltheingredientsinaslowcookersettomedium-loworina

Dutchovenovermedium-lowheat.Coverandsimmeruntilhotand

bubbly,about2hours.Tasteandaddmoresaltand/orhotsauceas

desired.

Burgoo

MoonliteBar-B-QInn

I

MoonliteBar-B-QInn2840W.ParrishAve.Owensboro,KY42301800-322-8989or270-684-8143http://www.moonlite.com

n the seventeenth century burgoo was a mush served to sailorsduringoceanvoyages.Youwouldn’twanttoeatitunlessyouwerestarving. Today’s burgoo is not mush. It tastes so good you can

nevergetenough.Someofthebestburgoointheworldisservedeveryday inOwensboro,Kentucky. This recipemakes 3 gallons,whichPaulsaysis“justenoughforabiglunch.ButIhavebeentoldthatIamabigeater.” Italso freezeswell.AlthoughMoonlite’srecipehasbeenwidelycirculated,abookaboutAmerica’sbestbarbecuewouldn’tbecompletewithoutthisburgoo.HatsofftotheBosleyfamilyforkeepingthisiconofAmericanbarbecuegoingstrong!

BURGOO

Makes3gallons

4poundsmutton

1(3-pound)chicken

poundgreencabbage,minced

poundonion,minced

5poundspotatoes,peeledanddiced

2(17-ounce)cansnibletcorn,or2cupsfreshcornkernels

cupketchup

3(10 -ounce)canstomatopuree

Juiceof1lemon

cupwhitevinegar

½cupWorcestershiresauce

2½tablespoonssalt,ortotaste

2tablespoonsblackpepper

1teaspooncayenne,ormoretotaste

Putthemuttoninalargepotwithenoughwatertocoverandbring

to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low and

simmer for 2 to 3 hours, stirring occasionally. Discard the broth

andthebonesandfinelychopthemeat.Setaside.

Boilthechickenin2gallonsofwaterinalargekettleovermedium

heat until tender.Remove the chicken and set aside to cool.Add

thecabbage,onion,potatoes,corn,ketchup,and1gallonofwater

tothechickenbroth.Bringtoaboil.

Meanwhile, chop the chicken meat. Discard the bones and skin.

When the potatoes are tender, after 20 or 30 minutes, add the

chopped chicken, mutton, tomato puree, lemon juice, vinegar,

Worcestershiresauce,salt,blackpepper,andcayenne.Simmerover

lowheatfor2hoursorlonger,stirringoccasionallyasitthickens.

Servewithsaltinecrackersorcornbreadifdesired.

WHATTODRINKWITHBARBECUEBeverages are essential to the barbecue experience.When the barbecue is world class, just about any

beverage will do. Matching the right beverage with

the right barbecue can, however—to borrow an

expression from Mark Twain—make the difference

betweenalightningbugandaboltoflightning.

In the majority of barbecue joints your beverage

options are water, iced tea, soda, and beer. Many

these days also offer wine. Iced tea has been called

“the house wine of the South.” Expect iced tea in

southern barbecue joints—sometimes sweet,

L

sometimesnot,andsometimesyougetachoice.The

ruleis,drinkwhatdoesn’tdistractfromthebarbecue.

Ifitenhancesthebarbecue,somuchthebetter!

HotPickles

LulingCityMarketRealTexasBar-B-Que4726RichmondAve.Houston,TX77027877-526-2271or713-871-1903http://www.lulingcitymarket.com

uling’s is one of Ardie’s all-time favorite sauces. Its post oak-smoked brisket sandwiches are superb, and the mustard basesauce is addictive, one of the best we’ve ever tasted. You can

orderLuling’s famoushotpicklesonlineor tryourversionofFireandIcePickles.Theyhavequiteabite!Theyaregreatintunasalad,deviledeggs,oranywhereelseyouwouldusechoppedpickles.

HOTPICKLES

Makes1gallon

1gallonslicedhamburgerdills

11¼cups(5pounds)whitecanesugar

1(2-ounce)bottleTabascoorotherhotsauce

Drainthepickleslicesinaverylargecolanderforabout5minutes.

Meanwhile, mix the sugar and Tabasco in a large bowl. Place a

layerofpicklesbackintothepicklejarandfollowitwithalayerof

the sugar mixture. Continue layering pickles and sugar mixture,

usingalargespoontopusheachlayerdown.Whenfinished,shake

the jaror turn itupanddowna few times. Seton counter.Turn

next day. Repeat for several days until the pickles become

transparent. The pickles are ready to eat after a few days. The

picklescanbeeatenthenextday,butthelongertheymarinatein

thejuice,thebettertheyare.Youcanstorethemonthecounteror

intherefrigerator.Whenstoredintherefrigerator,theygetextra-

crunchy.

Note:Sugarisnowsoldin4-poundbags,soyou’llneedalittle

morethanastandard-sizebagforthisrecipe.

Buffalo-StyleChickenWings

Brooks’HouseofBar-B-Q5560Hwy.7Oneonta,NY13820

W800-498-2445or607-432-1782http://www.brooksbbq.com

hen it comes to barbecued chicken, the Brooks family ofOneonta,NewYork, stands above the crowd.They startedwith a poultry business in 1941. Their barbecued chicken

business has thrived since the mid-1950s. The barbecue started withcatering, then a small concession stand, followed by an 80-seatrestaurant. So many customers hungry for barbecue flocked to therestaurant that in 1965 Brooks’ House of Bar-B-Q established apermanent home with a 300-seat restaurant on the former RalphHolcomb Farm. Brooks sports a 38-foot-long pit, billed as the “largestindoorcharcoalpitintheEast.”OnweekdaysBrookshostsanaverageof600customersaday.Onweekends thecustomeraveragecranksup to1,100. Chicken and pork spareribs comprise Brooks’ barbecue fare.Oven-roastedturkeyandbeefareservedwithBrooks’ famousbarbecuesauce.

Brooks’ is in step with the unique upstate New York tradition ofservingmarinatedgrilledboneless skinless chunksof chicken ina roll.Similar fare in Italy is called spiedini, but in New York the term isspiedies. Brooks’ spiedies are second to none. Brooks’ excellent spiediesauce,barbecuesauces,andrubsareavailableonlineorviaaphonecalltotherestaurant.Trythemonallofyourgrilledorbarbecuedchicken.

Brooks’hascomealongwaysincefamilypatriarchGriffinBrooksandhis wife and food management expert, Frances, started their poultryfarmin1941.Brooks’ownershippassedontosonJohnanddaughter-in-law Joan in 1975, and since 2005 John and Joan’s son Ryan anddaughter-in-law Beth have carried the Brooks’ torch into the thirdgeneration.

After you tryRyan’s recipe for chickenwings, youmay switch yourpreference from Buffalo chickenwings to Oneonta chickenwings! TrymixingBrooks’OriginalBar-B-QSaucewiththeMediumChickenWingSauce.StraightBrooks’OriginalBar-B-QSauceisgreat,too!

BUFFALO-STYLECHICKENWINGS

Serves4

Brooks’Grillin’Rub

2poundschickenwings,wingsanddrumsseparatedandtips

removed

1cupBrooks’Mild,Medium,orHotChickenWingSauce

Bluecheesedipordressing,forserving

Celeryandcarrotsticks,forserving

Preheatagrilltohighandthenturnbacktomediumwhenreadyto

startgrilling.

Shake Brooks’ Grillin’ Rub on the raw chicken wings. Place the

wingsonthegrillandturnfrequentlyuntildone,25to30minutes.

Removefromthegrillandletrestfor5minutes.Placethecooked

wingsinabowl,coverwiththewingsauce,andshaketocoatthe

wings.Servewithbluecheesedipordressingandceleryandcarrot.

L

Gumbo

BB’sLawnsideBar-B-Q1205E.85thSt.KansasCity,MO64131816-8BB-RIBS(822-7427)http://www.bbslawnsidebbq.com

indsay Shannon, proprietor, with his wife, Jo, calls BB’s a“roadhousejukejoint.”TruetoLindsay’sdescription,thebuildinglooks like a roadhouse. From streetside there is a large parking

lot, no lawn. Inside there’s a full-service bar on one end and diningtableswithbluesbandspaceontheother.Thewallsandceilingssportblues, barbecue, and swine signs, posters, pictures, and othermemorabilia. There is living history here as well, with live blues andgreat barbecue.Blues entertainers such as ShineTop Jr.BoogiePiano,LeeMcBee& the Confessors, and the Scotty BoyDaniels Band appear

often,asdoesaroadhousefullofotherbluestalent.

Lindsay, ablues andbarbecueexpert, pegs the1930sas the start ofthe barbecue and blues tradition in Kansas City. Thanks to BB’s andseveral other Kansas City venues, the tradition thrives today. Lindsayeven takes time off from the restaurant every Sunday night to host abluesshowonalocalradiostation.

BB’sheadpitmaster,MikeNickel,knowshiswayaroundthebarbecuepitaswellasLindsayknows“wherebar-b-qmeetstheblues.”Barbecueis in Mike’s blood. When he isn’t cooking at BB’s, he’s competing inbarbecuecookingcontests.AtBB’s,Mikehasthehonorofcookingwithoneofthemostunusualandhistoricbarbecuepitsinthenation.Infact,thepitmaybeunique;weknowofnoothercustom-builtpitmadefromgranite stones salvaged from theoldKansasCity crosswalks,when thestreetswerepavedwithgravel.It’snostretchoftheimaginationtosaythatBigJoeTurner,CharlieParker,CountBasie,MaRainey,andotherbluesgreatswalkedonthoseverystones!Thethickgranitestonesholdheat well, enhancing BB’s slow and low barbecuemethod of cooking.Thepitstillworkswellaftermorethanfiftyyearsofsmoking.

There is something magical about picking up a hickory-smoked rib

cookedinahistoricpitandsavoringeachbiteasyoulistentotheblues.Here’s how Lindsay puts it: “When the blues music floats off thebandstand,itwaftsacrossyourplateofbarbecue,impartingaflavoryoucanonlygetinKansasCityatBB’s.”

BB’salsomakesgreatgumbo.Tryacupasastarterorgetabowlandmakeityourmaincourse.Here’stherecipe,straightoutofBB’srecipeandoperationsmanual—the“Bible.”

GUMBO

Makes8to10quarts

1pound(4sticks)butter

4largeonions

4largegreenbellpeppers

1celerystalk,anyleavesremoved

Saltandblackpepper

Garlicpowder

5store-boughtsmokedsausages(1½pounds),thinlysliced

2smokedhamends,orabout1poundslicedsmokedham

2smokedturkeyends,orabout1poundslicedsmokedturkey

3 (28-ounce)cansHunt’scrushedtomatoes

2(49-ounce)cansSwanson’schickenbroth

2(3½-to4½-pound)wholechickens,cooked

1(16-ounce)packagefrozenokra

1tablespoonredmildgroundpepper

1(6-ounce)bottleLouisianahotsauce

Putthebutter inalargeskilletorstockpotwith½cupwaterand

heatovermedium-highheat.Choptheonions,greenpeppers,and

celery and add them to the pot. Sauté the vegetables until they

soften,7to8minutes;thensprinklelightlywithsalt,pepper,and

garlicpowderandstir.Transfertoa10-quartpot.

Cut up the sausages, ham, and turkey and add to the vegetables.

Thenaddthecrushedtomatoesandchickenbroth,stirringtomix

well.Bringtoaboiloverhighheatforabout15minutes.Oncethe

crushedtomatoesandbrothmixthroughouttheveggiesandmeats,

reducetheheattolowandsimmerforabout15minutes.

Meanwhile, remove the skins from the cooked chickens, pull the

chickenmeat off the bones in small tomedium chunks, and add

them to the pot. Then add the okra, red pepper, and hot sauce.

Simmerfor15minutesmore.Donotletitboil.Serve.

T

VolcanicGoatCheese

Gordon’sontheGreen(formerlyGordy’sSteak&BBQSmokehouse)13500InterurbanAve.SouthTukwila,WA98168206-267-7427http://www.gordonsonthegreen.com

hisrecipefromtheformerGordy’sSteak&BBQSmokehouseisworth passing along. Paul enjoyed it as an appetizer whenPacific Northwest barbecue icon Bob Lyon introduced him to

someof thebestbarbecue in thePacificNorthwest.Before feastingonexcellent barbecue brisket, ribs, and pulled pork, they enjoyed thisappetizer.Gordon’susesDemitri’sBloodyMarySeasoning,butyoucanuseanybrand.

VOLCANICGOATCHEESE

Serves4

3Romatomatoes,cutinhalfandseeded

1tablespoonbalsamicvinegar

2teaspoonsMontrealSteakSeasoning,finelyground

2½cupstomatojuice

½cupBloodyMarymix

1cupbarbecuesauce

1tablespoongranulatedgarlic

1tablespoongranulatedonion

1to2tablespoonschipotlechilesinadobosauce

poundgoatcheese

Freshchives,forgarnish

Low-caloriegarliccrostini,forserving

Preheatyour smoker to250°F.Place the tomatoesona sheetpan

and sprinklewith the balsamic vinegar and seasoning. Smoke for

40to60minutes,oruntilsofttothetouch.Cooldownandsavethe

juices.

Remove the tomato skins and process the tomatoes, the reserved

juices, tomato juice, Bloody Mary mix, barbecue sauce, garlic,

onion,andchilesinafoodprocessor.

Warm 2½ ounces of the sauce in each of 4 rarebit dishes or

ramekinsandplace3(1-ounce)slicesofgoatcheeseinthesauce.

Place under the hot broiler just to warm the top of the cheese.

Garnishwithchivescutabout1inchlong.Servewiththecrostini.

FINDINGGOOD BARBECUEWHENYOU’RENEWINTOWN

Findinggoodbarbecueiseasywhenyouknowwhomtoaskandwhat toask. If there’sany tobe found in

thetownorcityyoufindyourselfinasastranger,ask

therightquestionstotherightpeopleandyou’llsoon

bemunchingonthebestbarbecueintown.Theright

peopletoaskare:Taxidrivers

Policeofficers

Firefighters

After asking the obvious, find out what the

recommendedplace isknown for. Itmaybegoodat

somethingsbutnotothers.

Onceyou’vearrivedatajoint,werecommendyou

putittothetestourfriendVinceStatentoldusabout.

Youwantayesanswertoeachquestion.

Istheowner’snameonit?

Is there a cluttered working woodpile out

back?

Isbarbecuethespecialtyofthehouse?

Are thepremisescleanenough tomakeyou

feel comfortable, but not so squeaky clean

that it looks like more time is spent with

Windex, brooms, and mops than with fire,

meat,andsauce?

Is there a mix of clunkers and shiny new

vehiclesintheparkinglot?

Isthereamixofbluecollars,jeans,T-shirts,

skirts,andsuitsatthetables?

Arethereanyflies?

Oryoucouldaskyourdoctorifthisjointisrightfor

you.

“CheckpointChicky”Wings

R

TheBBQShack1613E.PeoriaSt.Paola,KS66071913-294-5908http://www.thebbqshack.com

ickSchoenbergerisknowninbarbecuecirclesas“Shake.”Heisacompetitionbarbecuerwhomadeasuccessfultransitionfromcontestant to full-time pitmaster and restaurant proprietor.

Afterwinninga truckloadof awards atbarbecue contests,Rick startedcateringunderthenameDoubleBarrelBBQCo.Whenhiswifetookcallsforhimbackthen,hewasusuallyworkingonacateringjob,soshe’dtellthecaller,“He’soutintheshack.”

Aftersuccessfulrunsatcatering,cookingatthelocalAmericanLegionandVFWposts,andmarketinghissauceandrubundertheBBQShackname, Shake opened the restaurant in 2006. Two years later businesswas sobrisk thathemoved to the current location,withmore seatingandeasieraccess.GuyFieripaidavisitandaireditwithpositiveravesonhisFoodNetworkDiners,Drive-InsandDivesshow.

The BBQ Shack has racked up impressive sales records in a smallKansas town that is a short commute from heavyweight barbecuecompetition in Kansas City. We have yet to catch Shake reading orquotingShakespeare,buthehashadthatnicknamesincesixthgrade,soheissurelynostrangertotheworksoftheBard!

The BBQ Shack will feel like Hog Heaven to Andy Griffith andMayberry RFD fans. Andy, Barney, Goober, Aunt Bee, and othercharactersfromthetwopopularshowswouldfeelathomeandhonoredattheBBQShack,wherethereisenoughMayberrymemorabiliatocallthe Shack a Mayberry shrine. Most menu items are named after aMayberrycharacterorplace.“CheckpointChicky”isthesceneofSheriffBarneyFife’sspeedtrap.WhenAndyarguedwithBarneyabouthisstrict

enforcementofthespeedlimit,Barney’sclassicreplywas,“NowAndy,ifyouletthemtake30,they’lltake35.Ifyouletthemtake35,they’lltake40,”and soon.Samegoes forShake’swings. It’s agood idea tomakemorethanyouthinkyourguestswilltake.Youcanmaketheall-purposerubwith the recipehere,oryoucanorder theBBQShackAllPurposeBarbequeRubfromRickontheInternet.Getitandyouwillenjoyit!

“CHECKPOINTCHICKY”WINGS

Serves4

¼cupwhitecanesugar

2tablespoonsonionsalt

2tablespoonsgarlicsalt

2tablespoonspaprika

2teaspoonschilipowder

1teaspoonblackpepper

1teaspoonlemonpepper

1teaspoonrubbedsage

1teaspoondriedbasil

¼teaspoongroundrosemary

¼teaspooncayenne

3poundschickenwings(about15)

Canolaorlardoil,fordeep-frying

2ouncesbarbecuesauce(optional)

Tomaketherub,combinethesugar,onionsalt,garlicsalt,paprika,

chili powder, black pepper, lemon pepper, sage, basil, rosemary,

andcayenneinanairtightcontainerandblendwell.Setasideuntil

readytouse.

Rinsethewingswithcoldwaterandpatdrywithpapertowels.Cut

into3sections,discardingthetipsorsavingthemforanotheruse.

Placethechickenwingsinalargebowlorplastictublargeenough

to permit mixing the wings and rub together. Sprinkle a liberal

amount(1to2ounces,or2to4tablespoons)oftherubinwiththe

wingsandmixbyturningthewingsoverandover.Youstillwant

to seeplentyof skin through the rub, soadd the ruba little at a

time.Placethewingsonasmokerat275°Fforapproximately1½

hours, or until the wings reach 165°F on an instant-read

B

thermometer.Ifyouwantacrispierskinonthefinishedwings,cool

themdownintherefrigeratorforatleast1hourorovernight.

Puttheoilinyourdeep-fryerandpreheatto350°F(orputtheoil

inadeeppotandmeasuretheoil temperaturewithadeep-frying

thermometer).Thefrybasketinaturkeydeep-fryerworksgreatfor

these wings. Deep-fry the wings for 1½ to 2 minutes, until they

brownandfloattothetop.

Ifyouwanthotwingsorbarbecuewings,putadozenwingsina

stainless-steel or ceramic bowl, pour the barbecue sauce over the

wings,andtossandshaketocoatwithsauce.

FriedCheeseStickGrits

MemphisMinnie’sBarbequeJoint&SmokeHouse576HaightSt.SanFrancisco,CA94117415-864-PORK(7675)http://www.memphisminnies.com

obKantor,MemphisMinnie’sproprietor,has“rubbedshoulderswith the big hogs,” as they say in Memphis. We’ve seen himvisitingwithJuliaChild,R.W.Apple,Jr.,EdMitchell,LolisElie,

Calvin Trillin, and many other famous pitmasters and foodies. As anactivememberof theSouthernFoodwaysAlliance,Bobkeeps in touchwith a vast network of people who care about good food, especiallysouthern food, and the important role it plays inour culture.His verysuccessful barbecue joint is a beacon to California swine diners who

yearn for some South in theirmouth. The joint’s bright colors on thewalls and furniture evoke a nouveau-hippie feel instead of southernbarbecue joint, but it fits the neighborhood. You’re in San Francisco,afterall.

Besides the barbecue, the fried cheese grits are a bestseller, andweknewwhywiththefirstbite.Wewerereadytoarm-wrestleBobfortherecipe,buthegaveitupwithsouthern-stylegenerosity.Bobcreditshisson,Ben,fordevelopingit.Thanks,BobandBen.Peace!

FRIEDCHEESESTICKGRITSServes8to12

1quartmilk

2clovesgarlic,minced

5clovessmokedgarlic,mashed(page21)

2cupsgrits(notinstant)

¾poundsharpcheddarcheese

½cupfreshlygratedParmesancheese

1teaspoonsalt

1teaspoonblackpepper

2largeeggs

3tablespoonsmilk

1cupcornmeal

1cupcornflour

Canolaoil,fordeep-frying

Bring 4 cups water, the milk, and the minced fresh and smoked

garlictoboil.Addthegrits,stirringconstantly,andsimmerfor6to

8minutes.Removefromtheheatandstirinthecheeses,salt,and

pepper.

Pour themixtureevenly intoaparchment-lined9by13-inchpan

andchilluntilverycold,4to6hoursorovernight.Turnout,peel

offtheparchment,andcutinto1by1by4-inchsticks.

Combineandbeattheeggsandmilkinasmallbowl.Combinethe

cornmealandcornflourinamediumbowl.Coatthegritsticksin

the egg wash and then in the cornmeal mixture. Place on a

parchment-linedsheetpanandchilluntilreadytofry.

Puttheoilinyourdeep-fryerandpreheatto370°F(oruseaskillet

and measure the temperature of the oil with a deep-frying

thermometer).Frythesticksfor3to5minutes,untilgoldenbrown.

Servewithyourfavoritedippingsauce,salsa,orbarbecuesauce.

SMOKEDGARLIC

½cupextra-virginoliveoil

1poundpeeledgarliccloves

Seasaltandfreshlygroundpepper

Preheatyoursmoker230°-250°F.

Heat an ovenproof saucepan on the stovetop over medium-high

heat.Startingthegarliconthestovesavesroastingtime.Whenit’s

hot,addtheextra-virginoliveoil.Next,addthegarlicclovesand

season with salt and pepper. Let the cloves begin to caramelize,

thenputthepaninthepreheatedsmoker.

Smokeroastthegarlicclovesforabout1½to2hoursoruntilthey

arenicelybrowned.Letcool.Thismakesmorethanyou’llneedfor

the Fried Cheese Stick Grits recipe, but you can store it in an

airtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforuptoaweekanduseitina

varietyofdishes.

Tomakeagarlicpaste:Whencoolenoughtohandleeasily,putthe

roastedgarlicintoasmallbowl,mashwithafork,andaddoilfrom

C

thepanuntilapasteforms.Thispastemakesgreatgarlicbread!

VidaliaOnionDip

Country’sBarbecue3137MercuryDr.Columbus,GA31906706-563-7604http://www.countrysbarbecue.com

ountry’s Barbecue, which is now a small chain, opened forbusiness in1975inanoldcountrystore.Thefoodqualityandfamily-friendly ambience quickly caught on. Of the nine

Country’stoday,weliketheoriginalonMercuryDrivebest.Itfeaturesagiganticredwoodenrockingchair,verypopularwithkidsofallages.Ofcoursewecan’tresistsayingthatthefoodatCountry’srocks,too!

Choppedporksandwich,orchoppedpork,iswhatCountry’sdoesbest—barbecued pork, cooked over hickory and oak, chopped and servedwith Country’s own sauces. Country’s does several nontraditionalbarbecue items such as smoked turkey and homemade corn breaddressing, with a sweet potato soufflé. Its hot roast beef sandwich istoppedwithVidaliaonionsandgravy. It’swhatwe’dexpectatadinerinsteadofabarbecuejoint,butit’sdelicious!

One of Country’s interesting appetizers is a Vidalia Onion Dip withFritoScoops.Sincetherecipeisatradesecret,wewillventurethisverycloseadaptation. It’salsogoodasadip forveggies,potatochips, fries,andonionrings.

VIDALIAONIONDIP

Makes5cups

2sweetonions,minced1cupmayonnaise

1cupfreshlygratedParmesancheese

1cupshreddedSwissorcheddarcheese

In a large bowl, combine the onions, mayonnaise, and grated

cheesesandstiruntilwellblended.Placeinalargebakingdishor

divide among 4-ounce individual ramekins. Cover and refrigerate

for2hoursorovernight.Bakeat325°Ffor1hour,untilbubblyand

light brown on top. Remove from the oven and let stand for 10

minutes. If there is too much grease, spoon off and discard or

absorb the excess in paper towels and discard. Serve with fresh

breadorcrackers.

FANTASYBARBECUEBarbecue lovers often have adventurous taste budsandappreciateaninnovativeapproachtofood.We’re

no exception. We’ve heard of a few dishes that we

thinkwouldbeanicecomplementtobarbecueanda

welcomechangefromthestandardfare.Don’tgetus

wrong—we like the onion rings, fries, slaw, and

potatoesasmuchasanyone,butifwesawanyofthe

following things on a barbecuemenu,we’d jump to

tryit.

Smokedpickledbaloney

Pigcigars(pulledporkwrappedinawonton

wrapperandfrieduntilcrisp)

Pigfries(testicles)

Turkeyfries(testicles)

O

Lambfries(testicles)

Smokedchickenliverpâté

Smokedpickledeggs

BlueCheeseBowlAppetizer

RidgewoodBarbecue900ElizabethtonHwy.BluffCity,TN37618423-538-7543

ur good friend Fred Sauceman has sung the praises ofRidgewood for years.WhenArdiewas the officialCurator ofSauces at the Southern Foodways Alliance symposium on

barbecue,FredreadilyvolunteeredtobringafreshquartofRidgewoodBar-B-QueSauce.WecanstillpictureFredholdingthatjarcarefullyandreverently.HehandedthejartoArdielikeitwasasacredobject—whichto many Ridgewood fans it is. All but a few drops of Grace Proffitt’sfamous sauce were consumed that night by enthusiastic symposiumparticipants. We still have the empty jar. The remnants that wentbegging aren’t safe to eat now,but the empty jarwith theRidgewoodlabelisatreasurewecherish.

Besides our friendshipwith Fred,wehaveour ownhistorywith the

Ridgewood.In1984,whenArdiefoundedtheDiddy-Wa-DiddyNationalBarbecue Sauce Contest, he wrote to Grace Proffitt and asked her toenterhersauceinthecontest.Graceherselfreplied,withaniceletter,anewspaper article about the Ridgewood, and a bottle of sauce.We’vebeenRidgewoodfanseversince!

Graceandoneofhertwosons,Terry,havesincepassedaway.Tothereliefof thousandsofRidgewood fanswhoworried that the restaurantwouldclose,Grace’ssurvivingson,Larry,andhisdaughter,LisaPeters,have steppedup to thepit. Larry, a pharmacist, ownsBurgieDrugs innearbyElizabethton,buthedoesn’tmindwearing twohatsbyhelpingLisaandthetwenty-sevenRidgewoodstaffersliveuptotheRidgewood’sreputationforquality.

OnlytwolivingpersonsknowtheRidgewoodsaucerecipe—LarryandLisa.Itiscommittedtomemory,truetotheProffitttradition.That’snosmalltask,astherearemorethantwodozeningredients!You’llbelievethatwhenyoutaste it.Wechucklewhenreadingthe ingredients listedonthelabel:tomatocatsup,salt,sugar,andspices.

UnlikemostTennesseebarbecuejoints,theRidgewoodserveshickory-smoked fresh ham instead of shoulders. You can taste the difference.Withthegenerousportionsofmeat,homemadefries,slaw,andGrace’sbarbecuebeans,youwillnotleavehungry.

When you can’t enjoy the Ridgewood’s popular Blue Cheese Bowlappetizer in person, try ours. Just remember, there’s none better thanthe original Ridgewood Blue Cheese Bowl. Saltine crackers are servedwiththisattheRidgewood.Youcanstickwiththatoutoftradition,oradd baby carrots, broccoli florets, celery sticks, and other munchy,crunchydippingfoods.Thisrecipealsoworkswellasasaladdressing.

BLUECHEESEBOWLAPPETIZER

Makes2cups

½cupDanishorotherbluecheese,crumbled

½cupmayonnaise

½cupdairysourcream

¼cupbuttermilk

1tablespoonWorcestershiresauce

2teaspoonsfreshlemonjuice

1teaspoongratedonion

1largeclovegarlic,pressed

1teaspoonLawry’sSeasonedSalt

Blackpepper,totaste

In a medium bowl, combine all the ingredients and blend well.

H

Coverandchillforatleastanhourtoallowtheflavorstoblend.

RockyMountainOysters(a.k.a.RMOs)

Hoke’sGenuinePitBBQ9134W.88thAve.Westminster,CO80005303-424-QPIT(7748)http://hokesbbq.com

oke’sopenedin1996asacateringbusiness,andtherestaurantopened in 2002. The reason Hoke’s barbecue is constantlygood is that theystay true to theironemission tokeep their

barbecuegenuine.

Youunderstandwhy there’s a lineout thedoorwhenyou slice intothetenderprimemeatwithitssmoke-concentratedbeefytaste.Wewereimpressed that it came with real beef juice for dipping and pureedhorseradish—not the tamed creamy type—for adding another level ofzip.

The thing we especially liked was the Rocky Mountain Oystersappetizer. No, they aren’t oysters harvested from a fresh, cold-watermountainstreamintheColoradoRockies.Yes,theyarewhatyouthinktheyare:bulltesticles.Theyarerichandgood!Somecallthemcountrycaviar. Here’s our version, compliments of our barbecue buddy SteveHolbrook,whoalsocooksupameanbatchofpigfries.Ifyoucan’tfindthebreaderatyourlocalstore,youcanorderonlineorsubstituteyourownfavoritebreader.Youcanalsoorderbulltesticlesonline.

ROCKYMOUNTAINOYSTERS(A.K.A.RMOS)

Serves20to24

5poundsfrozenbulltesticles

2to4cupsAtkinson’sFloweringOnionBreader

Plentyofcoldbeer—Hey,it’saveryhotjob!

Morton’sHotSalt

Canolaoilorlard,fordeep-frying

Toprep the goldennuggets: Thaw just enough tobe able to skin

them.While the testiclesare still semifrozen, slice them intocoin

shapesabout inchthickandthenletthemthawcompletely.

Inthemeantime,put1cupofbreaderinamediumbowlandblend

inenoughbeertomakearunnybatter.Place1cupofdrybreader

inanothermediumbowl.Ifyourunoutofeitherthewetmixture

orthedrybatter,remixandrefillthebowlsasneeded.

Use paper towels to dry the testicle coins, season them with

Morton’s Hot Salt to your liking, and then drop them into beer

battertocover.Lift,letdrainslightly,thendropintodrybatterto

coverwithadryoutercoating.

Puttheoilinyourdeep-fryerandpreheatto350°F(orfillaskillet

and use a deep-frying thermometer). Drop in the RMOs and fry

untiltheybecomefloatinggoldennuggets,3to5minutes,working

inbatchesifnecessary.

A

FriedGreenTomatoes

WilliamsonBros.Bar-B-Q1425RoswellRd.Marietta,GA30062770-971-3201http://realpagessites.com/williamsonbros

sk your taxi driver in metro Atlanta where to eat the bestbarbecueintown,andtheoddsarehighthatthereplywillbe“Williamson Brothers.” The place has become very popular

since JackWilliamson and his two sons, Danny and Larry, decided tomove their Talladega, Alabama, restaurant to metropolitan Atlanta in1989. They have since openedWilliamson Bros. restaurants in CantonandDouglasville, Georgia. Themenu is extensive enough to appeal toeveryonewholikesbarbecue.Peoplewhodon’tespeciallylikebarbecue—unimaginable tous—will findenoughdeliciousappetizers tomakeafeast,plussalmon,catfish,burgers,andhotdogs.AplatterofWilliamsonBros.barbecuedporkribswithasideofBrunswickstew,okra,andcornon the cob is a memorable feast. Start with a fried green tomatoappetizer.Here’sourversionofthesouthernclassic.

FRIEDGREENTOMATOESServes6to8

4to6mediumgreentomatoes

Saltandblackpepper

2cupsall-purposeflour

2cupscornmeal

2cupscoldmilk

2largeeggs

2tablespoonsbacongrease,ormoreifdesired

Slicethetomatoes¼to½inchthick.Saltandpepperthemtotaste

on both sides. Place the flour and cornmeal in separate shallow

dishesfordredging.Inamediumbowl,combinethemilkandeggs,

beatinguntilincorporated.Placethebacongreaseinalargeskillet

andheatoverhighheat.Whentheskilletishot,dusteachtomato

slicewith flour, then dip it into the eggwash, and then into the

cornmeal. Fry some of the battered tomato slices for about 3

minutes, or until golden on the bottom. Gently turn and fry the

otherside.Repeatwiththeremainingtomatoslices.

MainDishes

Withmaindishes,eyeappealisimportant.Barbecueneedn’t be served on fine china, but it should be

presented with care.Whether it’s served on butcher

paper,onaplasticplate,inaplasticbasketorapaper

boat,oronaStyrofoamorpaperplate, the foodhas

to look good! Our good Texas buddy John Raven,

PhB,hasanopinionabout themanybarbecue joints

inTexas and elsewhere that serve their barbecue on

butcher paper. When John was a human rocket at

chilicontests,hewasDaredevilBadMcFad.Todaywe

call himBad.Here’s howBadputs it as no one else

can: “One problem I have with just about all the

barbecue joints I have visited is that unforgivable

butcherpaper. I takemybriskettothetable,andby

the time I have cut one or two slices I am eating

through the hole in the butcher paper and onto the

topofatablethatcoulduseagoodsteamcleaning.I

want a real plate, and I want a real fork. I carry a

knife.

“Thebutcherpaperservingthatsomanyfindsocute

datesbacktowhenminoritieswerenotallowedinthe

barbecue joints. They were served at the back door

andtheir foodwrappedinbutcherpaper.AlthoughI

now qualify as aminority, I still want a plate or at

leastacleantray.”*Johnknowsmoreaboutbarbecue

than anyone, and you can read more of his

recollectionsonJimCrowandbarbecueonpage96.

Beyond looks, the meat should be packed with

smokedmeatflavorandeasytochew.Ribsshouldbe

moist, tender, and done enough that they pull apart

easily, but not so done that they fall off the bone.

Porkshouldbemoistandtender,notdryandstringy.

Beef shouldalsobe tenderand flavorful.HousePark

puts it best in their slogan: “Needno teef to eatmy

beef.”Thespicesonthemeatshouldcomplementthe

meat flavor, not overpower it. When it comes to

sauce, we prefer ours on the side. Others like their

meatbastedandslatheredwithsaucebeforeserving.

With a few exceptions, the dishes in this chapter

reflectregionaltastesandavailability.You’llfindbeef

inTexas,porkintheCarolinas,muttoninKentucky,a

littlebitofbisoninColorado,andavarietyofmeats

in the Midwest and elsewhere. We even threw in

some fish and seafood froma couple of our favorite

joints.Digin!

* Quoted with permission from the book Bad is writing, I Know More About Barbecue Than

Anyone.

*CodeofFederalRegulations,Title9,ChapterIII,Part319,SubpartC,Section319.80,revised:1/1/1985

*Ardiesays this rapidlyandmakes it too long formost judges torememberandrepeat—e.g.,“2011TenthAnnualHarpoonBreweryNewEnglandBarbecueSocietyChampionshipBarbecueJudge.”

I

SmokedBarbecueBeefRibs

TheCountyLineBar-B-Q6500BeeCaveRoadAustin,TX78746512-327-1742http://www.countyline.com

s it legendary?We can go alongwith that. County Line Barbecuehasbeenuponthehillsince1975.Thisistheoriginallocation.OntheoutsideitlookslikeaTexasroadhouse.

Thehuge,meatybeefribs,slow-smokedfor18to20hours,arewhatputCountyLineonthemap.Whenyou’reeatingCountyLinebeefribs,you’regoingtowantto“GetItAllOverYa!”—thetrademarkbarbecuesauce,thatis.

Although Country Line won’t or can’t divulge too many of theircookingsecrets, theywereeagertotellushowtosmokeribsathome.Trimsomeofthefatfromthebacksideoftheribsbeforeyouputthemon the smoker. An oak-wood fire is preferred for smoking at CountyLine, and that’s our choiceathome, too. Season the ribs all overwithsalt, freshly ground pepper, or perhaps a little garlic powder beforeplacingtheminthepit.Wesuggestseasoningwithgarlicsaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper.Youdon’tneedahotfire;youdoneedtokeeptheribs as far away from the fire as possible. Ribs are not as tough asbrisket, but they need to smoke for a long time.Whenwe tested thisrecipeforbeefribsinabackyardsmoker,ittook6to8hourstocookaslabofribs;1to1½hoursperpoundisagoodruleofthumbtofollow.

SMOKEDBARBECUEBEEFRIBS

Serves7to10

2to3(5-to7-pound)slabsbeefbackribs

¼cupgarlicsalt

3tablespoonsblackpepper

Prepareamesquite charcoaloroak-wood fire inyour smoker; let

burn for 1 hour or until the flames disappear. The temperature

shouldbe200°-225°F.Placethewaterpaninthesmokerandfillit

withwater.

Seasontheribsalloverwiththeseasoning,sprinklingitonandnot

rubbingitin.

Placetheribsinthesmokerandcoverwiththesmokerlid;cookfor

6 to8hours,oruntilan instant-readthermometerregisters180°F

ortheribspullapart,addingwoodandwaterasneeded.

BarbecuedBeefShoulderClod

Smitty’sMarket208S.CommerceSt.Lockhart,TX78644512-398-9344http://www.smittysmarket.com

The first time Paul went to Smitty’sMarket he got it right! Heparkedintheparkinglotatthebackofthebuildingandwentinthe back door.He had actually driven by earlier, and the line

wasoutthedoor(anditwasFebruary!),sohetookcareofanothertaskandcamebacklater.

At Smitty’s, you go in the back door and into the pit room, whereyou’llfindoneoftheoldestbarbecuepitsinuseinTexasandmostlikelyintheentireUnitedStates.That’swhereyouorderthebarbecuethatyouwanttoeat.Paulorderedagoodsliceofbeefshoulderclodandwantedto taste Smitty’s famous sausage but wanted only half a link. He waswillingtopayforawholelink,buthecouldn’teatallofit,soheaskedthem to please give the other half to someonewhowould eat it. Thepitmansaid,“I’ll cut it inhalf,butyouhave to take thewhole thing.”Forthemtogetpaidforthesausagesandbarbecue,youhavetotakeitinto the restaurant to getweighed and priced out to you. This is alsowhere you order your side dishes and drinks. So all Paul gotwas thesliceofclodanda smokedsausage,eachcut inhalfaspromised,withhalf a package of soda crackers, all served on butcher paper. Whycrackers? That’s what the locals in the general area order, but go forbreadifyoulike.

Paul introducedhimself toJohnFullilove, thepitmasterandSmitty’sgrandson.Johnisabig,easygoing,“thisisthewayitis”typeofperson.Whensomeonesays“barbecuedbeef”toPaul,heseesonlybrisket,butJohntoldhimthewayitis:beefshoulderclodisbetter.Why?AccordingtoJohn,simplebeefclodhasmoremarblingandthereforemoreflavor,andtheyieldfortheclodisbetter.Youloseatbest50percentofbrisket,where the shoulder clod will lose 40 to 45 percent, and it just tastesbetter.

Smitty’shasfourpitsplusasmokeroom.Thetwopitsontheoldsidewere built in 1924 and the newer oneswere built in 1972 and 1978.Paulnoticedthepitshadnothermometers,soheaskedJohnhowlonghe cooks the shoulder clod and at what temperature. The answer putPaulintoamildstateofshock.Johnsaidtheycookatabout400°Ffor4to8hours,dependinghowsoon theyneed themeat.Paulwouldhavecooked them at 250°F for 12 to 14 hours, so he just had to ask Johnwhy.AccordingtoJohn,whenyoucookhotforashorttime,itsealsinthejuicesandyoudon’tgetthemtoosmoky,andthat’sthewaySmitty’sprefersthem.

BrisketisthemeatofchoiceinTexas,andSmitty’ssellsmorebrisketandribsthantheyusedto.Clod,bigporkchops,andsausageusedtobethe leaders, but things and tastes change, and Smitty’s keeps rollingalong.And,Paulmightadd,withgreatbarbecue.PaulthankedJohnandwentontohisnextbarbecueadventure.

BARBECUEDBEEFSHOULDERCLOD

Serves35to40

1(18-to22-pound)beefshoulderclod

Saltandblackpepper

Seasontheshoulderclodalloverwithsaltandpepperandplaceon

anindirectfirebuiltwithpostoakandheatedto400°F.Coverand

cookfor4to8hours,untiltender.

Note:OnaWeberSmokeyMountain,you’dprobablyhave to

cutthebeefclodinhalf.

C

CookingMethod

Cooper’sOldTimePitBar-B-Que505W.DallasSt.Llano,Texas78643877-533-5553or325-247-5995(formailorder)http://www.coopersbbq.com

ooper’s is consideredoneof theMeccasofbarbecue, andPaulwouldagree.TheCooper’sinLlanohasnorealtiestotheoneinJunction (page 35) except they were taught the same way.

Cooper’sinLlanoismorerusticandhasalittlemoreambiance,buttheyaresetupalmostidentically.

At one end of the parking lot is an enormous pile ofmesquite logs.Nexttothatisthebarbecuesmokehousewithfiveoldrectangularclosedsteel pits lined up in a row. At the pit closest to the door, customers

choosetheirmeat.

ThebarbecueatCooper’siscookedcowboystyle,thatis,directlyoversmolderinghardwood coals. The logs are burneddown to embers in abigenclosedfireplace,thentransferredtothepitsbywheelbarrow.Thepitmanshovels thecoalsunder themeat.Thebrisket takessix toeighthours and is outstanding, with the robust flavor of meat and smoke.Everythingelseisfabulous,too:thehugeporkchops,whichareoneofCooper’ssignatureitems(hencethemotto“Cooper’sOldTimePitBar-B-Que,HomeoftheBigChop”),thesirloin,theporksausage,thechicken,theporkribs,thegoat,andonTuesdaysandFridays,thebeefribs.

InitsMarch2001issue,TexasMonthlystatedthatnumberthreeofthetopfiftythingsthatanygoodTexanshoulddobeforedyingistopickapiece fromoneofCooper’sOldTimePitBar-B-Quepits inLlano.Pauldoesn’t usually like mesquite-smoked meats, but he likes the wayCooper’scookstheirs,andhewouldhavetoagreewithTexasMonthly.He’dalsoincludetheCooper’sinJunction.

BETTERTHANA$162DUCK!Cooper’sBar-B-Q&Grill

2423N.MainSt

Junction,TX76849

325-446-8664

Thefirst timePaulwenttoCooper’s inJunction,heand his friend Stuart Carpenter traveled there from

Houstonjusttohavesomebarbecue,notrealizingor

caring that it wasn’t the famous Cooper’s in Llano,

Texas.

Whentheypulledintotheparkinglot,theviewwas

amazing. In the back were fifty some cords of

mesquite stacked foraging (drying),apithouse that

held five old rectangular pits with steel lids, and a

500-gallonfirebarrelstandingonitssidewithafour-

footopeninginitandaroaringfireburningaway.

PaulandStuartwentinside,wheredisplayedinthe

counter were samples of all the barbecue—brisket,

ribs,twotypesofsausage(smokedandjalapeño),big

thickpork chops, and cabrito (babygoat), aswell as

side dishes such as pinto beans, potato salad, and

slaw.Theirorderwentsomething likethis: thepoint

ofthatbrisket,alinkofsmokedandjalapeñosausage,

some ribs (the serving lady startedcuttingoffof the

short end, but Paul and Stuart wanted them off the

longend,sotheyjusttookallofthem),andacouple

ofporkchops.Theyeachalsohadbeansandsplitan

orderofpotatosaladandslawwithtwolargedrinks.

The bill came to $85, and when they left, they

orderedanother$80worthofbarbecue to send to a

friendinNewYork.

Paul and Stuart’s trip to Cooper’s in Junction

always reminds Paul of the old country song “The

$162Duck,”which is about amanwith aduck and

whobasicallyswindlesaguyoutof$162.Fewpeople

remember the song, but the analogy is this: the

gasolineforthetripcost$77,andthelunchwas$85,

foragrandtotalof$162.Buttheanalogyendsthere,

because there sure wasn’t a swindle involved with

Cooper’s.Paullikestotellpeoplethattheworstthing

hecansayisthathewouldgoback,andhehasbeen

backfourmoretimesandifheis intheareahewill

gobackagain.

BeefBrisket

HeadCountryBarbecue1217E.ProspectAve.PoncaCity,OK74601

H888-762-1227or580-767-8304(formailorder)http://www.headcountry.com

eadCountryBarbecuesaucesandrubsarefamousthroughoutOklahoma and beyond. Being from Oklahoma, Ardie had aliking for Head Country Bar-B-Q Sauce, Original Flavor and

Hickory Smoke Flavor, years before meeting Danny Head on thebarbecue cooking contest trail. We’ve both gotten to know andappreciateDannyandhiswife,Carey,overtheyears.Theyhavebuiltanimpressive reputation and product line that has been good for theOklahomaeconomyaswellasthemanybarbecueloverswhosavortheHeadCountrysignatureflavorsontheirbarbecue.

WhenDannyandCareyhiredPaulSchatte fromhiscareer in schooladministration, Paul didn’t waste any time getting busy with dailyrestaurant and sauce factory operations, getting acquainted with staff,andputtinghisleadershipskillstowork.Healsosoonbecameafixtureonthecompetitionbarbecuecircuit,rackinguponeimpressivewinafteranother, competing as Head Country II. More recently Paul became apartownerofHeadCountry.

TheHead Country Barbecue restaurant outgrew the original smallerjoint.Thecurrentlocationcouldstillusesomeextratablesatthebusiesttimes,butcanaccommodateseventy-fivehungrypeopleata time.Thedaily fare at Head Country is a selection of hickory-smoked sliced orchopped beef brisket, pork spareribs, pork shoulder, turkey, ham,chicken breast, and hot links. You can get barbecued baked beans,coleslaw,potatosalad,bakedpotato,frenchfries,chips,deviledegg,andjalapeñopeppers soloorasmanyasyou likeon the side.Our favoriteHeadCountry feast isbeefbrisketwithbarbecuedbeans,potato salad,andcoleslaw,withadeviledegg starter.Youcan’tgowrongwithanychoices you make at Head Country, so don’t cheat yourself out ofgrazing your way through the entire menu, one visit at a time, andchoosingyourownfavorites.

Afteranespeciallymemorable lunchatHeadCountryonedaywhenwestoppedthereonourwaytoTexas,PaulSchattegaveusatouroftheHead Country sauce and rub production and distribution plant,warehouse, and executive offices. Wow! When you walk inside this25,500-square-foot22-foot-tallplantbustlingwithactivity,youseewhyHead Country is able to establish a presence on supermarket shelves,grocery store shelves, and kitchen cupboards all over Oklahoma andelsewhere.We saw orders scheduled for delivery inmany parts of theUSA.

BeforeweleftPonca,wegotPaul’spromiseofaHeadCountryrecipe.What follows is what he gave us, and since he has won the brisketcategoryinsomanycontests,wearepleasedandthankful.Oklahomaiscattlecountry,soofcoursethisisabeefbrisketrecipe.

BEEFBRISKETServes18to20

1(12-to14-poundorlarger)packertrimbrisketaged35to40

days

½cupHeadCountryAll-PurposeChampionshipSeasoning

1(10-ounce)bottleHeadCountryPremiumMarinade

1 (18-ounce) bottle Head Country Original Flavor, Hickory

SmokeFlavor,orHotFlavorBar-B-QSauce

Preparethebrisketthenightbeforeyouplantocookit.Thereare

two lean pieces ofmeat (the “flat” and the “deckle,” or “point”)

sandwichedbyfat.Separatethetwoleanpieces.Leaveasmuchfat

on the flat as you like; all of it is best in the cooking stage. The

deckleshouldhaveasmuchfattrimmedoffthesurfaceaspossible.

Thefirsttimeyoutrimoutabrisketitmaybedifficulttofindthe

twosectionsofmuscle. Ifyouhaveagoodrelationshipwithyour

localbutcher,askhim to showyouhow topart thebrisket.Most

peoplejustcooktheflat,whichisverygood.Youwillbepleasantly

surprisedatthestrongbeefflavorthedecklehas.

Once the two pieces are trimmed, season both with the Head

Countryseasoning.The flatportioncanbeseasonedveryheavily,

butthedeckleshouldreceivealightdustingofseasoning.Thefat

marbled in the deckle will have a salt flavor to it already.

Seasoning this piece too heavily will give the meat a very salty

taste.Theflatcanhandleheavyseasoningbecause itwill sweata

lotasitcooks.

Afterseasoningthemeat,shakethebottleofmarinadewellbefore

opening it. Drizzle some on both sides of the pieces ofmeat and

massage it in. Place the seasonedmeat in a plastic container and

coverwithalid.Refrigerateitovernight.

Thenextday,removethebrisketfromtherefrigeratorandallowit

towarmupwhileyoupreparethesmoker.Buildafirethat,when

readyforcooking,willbe275°F.Seasonedpecanwoodproducesa

goodmildsmokeflavor.Unseasonedwoodorheavy-smokingwood

will leave a creosote/smoky taste on themeat. Allow the fire to

burnfor30minutes.

Placethebrisketflatinthesmoker,fatsideup.Thedecklewillnot

have a fat side. Push the muscle together rather than leaving it

pulledor stretchedout.Cookat275°F for3hours.After3hours,

checkthetemperaturewithaninstant-readthermometer.Oncethe

internal temperature reaches 160°F, remove the brisket from the

smokerwith a fork or heat-rated gloves and place the brisket fat

sidedownonadoublelayerofaluminumfoilcutlargeenoughto

sealthebriskettight.Pour¼cupofmarinadeoverthetopandseal

thefoiltightly.Dothesamewiththedecklepiece,usingalittleless

marinade.Returnthebriskettothesmokerandcookat300°Ffor3

to3½hours.Whentheinternaltemperatureofthebrisketreaches

200°F,removethebrisketfromthesmokerwithheat-ratedgloves.

Open the foil and let the heat dissipate for 20 to 25 minutes.

Removethebrisketfromthefoilandsliceacrossthegrainofboth

the flat and the deckle. Compare the taste of the pieces of beef.

ServewithplentyofHeadCountryBar-B-QSauce.

BarbecueBrisketwithPintoBeans

Black’sBarbecue

B

215N.MainSt.Lockhart,TX78644512-398-2712http://www.blacksbbq.com

lack’s is known as Texas’s oldest and best major barbecuerestaurantcontinuouslyoperatedbythesamefamily.Ithasbeenaround since 1932. Edgar and Norma Black, co-owners, are

assistedbytheirsons,KentandBuddy.Paullovestheirslogan“TakemebacktoBlack’sBarbecue.”

Paul went to Black’s especially for the sausages and brisket. Heorderedexactly that,abig sliceofbrisketanda sampleofeachof thesausages:theiroriginal,whichtheBlackshavebeenmakingsince1932,aswell as the jalapeño/cheddar and the garlic sausage, both ofwhichwereintroducedin2003.Itallwasworththetrip.Black’sisamuststopwheninLockhart.

Paul went to the counter and asked to see the owners or manager.Picking up a business card, he noticed that the manager was fromOverland Park, Kansas, near where Paul lives. A few minutes latermanager Steve Cloud came out. Paul complimented Steve on thebarbecueandexplainedthathewastheretostealoneofBlack’ssausagerecipes.Stevelaughednervouslyandsaid,“Idon’tthinkso!Idon’tthinktheBlackfamilywouldgoalongwiththat.”Paulsaid,“Iunderstand!Butcouldyougiveus theprocedure for cooking the sausages?” Steve saidthathewouldasktheBlacksifthatwaspermissible.

PaulcalledBlack’slaterandhadtheopportunitytotalktoKentBlack,and Kent graciously gave us the cooking procedure for their world-famoussausage.

Black’scooksinarectangularpitwithheavylids,usingindirectheat.Ithasatwo-pitsetup.Thetwopitsshareacommonstack,orflue,andcookwithpostoak.Black’smakes,stuffs,andhand-tiesthesausagesin

smallsausagerings,placesthemonsausagerods,andhangstheminthepitstosmokefor3to3½hoursatalow175°to200°F.WethankBlack’sforsharingtheirrecipeswithus.

BARBECUEDBRISKETServes15

¼cupsalt

¼cupcoarselygroundblackpepper

1(9-to10-pound)beefbrisket

Prepareyourpitorgrill:Anindirect-heatpitwithalidispreferred.

We recommend using a hardwood such as post oak for heat and

smoke. Some woods—mesquite and other types of oak—emit a

strong, harsh flavor that is undesirable to many people. Try

different hardwoods to suit your taste. Heat the pit or grill to

250°-350°F. The lower the heat, the more smoke, the better the

flavor.

Mixthesaltandpeppertogether.Hand-rubthesaltandpeppermix

into the brisket. Place the brisket in the pit or grill and cook to

desireddoneness,8to12hours.Servewithbarbecuepintobeans.

PINTOBEANSServes4to6

1pounddriedpintobeans,sortedfordebrisandwashed

¼poundsaltpork,chopped

1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

2teaspoonspaprika

2teaspoonssalt

1teaspoonchilipowder

Preheat your oven to 450°F. Place the beans in a large pot or

cookerwithalidandcoverwithwater.Addthesaltpork,pepper,

paprika,salt,andchilipowderwhilestirring.

Cook,stirringoccasionallyandmakingsuretheydon’tscorch,until

the beans are soft, about 3 to 4 hours. The beans can be served

immediatelyorcooledandreheatedforusethenextday.

Note:Youcanalsouseaslowcooker(CrockPot)andcookthebeansfor5hoursonhighheatorfor6to

7hoursonlowheat,stirringoccasionally.

THETEXASCRUTCH

Legend has it that Paul Kirk coined the expression“Texas Crutch” when jesting with barbecue contest

cooks fromTexaswho routinelywrapped theirmeat

in aluminum foil after smoking it a while. Foiling

meat betters your odds of getting tender barbecue.

Thejuicessteam-tenderizethemeat.

In fairness to Texans, not all Texas pitmasters use

thecrutch,andit’susedbycooksalloverthecountry.

Itworks. There’s no right orwrong about it. Purists

like Paul, however, say it makes “pot roast” out of

briskets and butts. To Paul, it’s not real, traditional

barbecue.

Weweanedourselves fromthecrutchmorethana

decadeago.Welikebark,andit’snearimpossibleto

getbarkwiththecrutch.Nevertheless,you’llseesome

aluminum foil in some of our recipes, and we

guaranteeyou’llliketheresult.

SmokedPrimeRib

4LegsUpBBQ&SteakHouse2212MainSt.GreatBend,KS67530

K620-792-7892

elly and Roni Wertz opened 4 Legs Up BBQ & Catering inMcCook, Nebraska, where their award-winning barbecue gaverise to a thriving and growing business. Then they decided to

entertheCentralKansasBBQCookoffandStateChampionshipinGreatBend,Kansas,wheretheywon“ThePeople’sChoiceAward.”Itbecamealife-changing trip. They liked this Kansas town, and it presented theopportunity to add a steakhouse to their famous barbecue restaurant.WithalotofplanningandsoulsearchingtheymadethecommitmenttomovetoGreatBendandopen4LegsUpBBQ&SteakHouse.

4LegsUpisa70-seatfull-servicerestaurantservinglunchandsupper.The Wertzes offer seven different smoked meats plus pork ribs andhomemadesides,includingtheiraward-winningcheesypotatocasseroleand barbecue beans. The BBQ Nachos—fresh fried potato chips withyour choice ofmeat smothered in homemade cheese sauce—and theirBBQ Burrito, barbecue beans and your choice of meat wrapped in atortilla, are very popular. And, of course, cold beer always goes wellwith barbecue. The wood-fire-grilled steaks and burgers are also verypopular.At4LegsUptheywet-ageall-natural,premiumAngusbeefforaminimumof 30 days before hand-carving each steak for each order.SmokedprimeribisservedeverySaturdaynight.

KellyandRonihavecompeted inBBQcontests for severalyearsandcollectively have won six Grand Championships, two Reserve GrandChampionships,andoneReserveChampionship,placedeleventhat theAmericanRoyalin2007andninthintotalpointsfortheKCBSTeamoftheYearin2007.TheirRoyalRedSaucewontheAmericanRoyalsaucecontest in 2005 and the Colorado State Champion Sauce at Frisco,Colorado, in2005.TheirChipotle-RaspberrySauceandRaspberryBBQsauce have won several awards as well. 4 Legs Up Cow Dust BBQseasoninghasplacedthirdandsixth,respectively,attheGreatAmericanBBQ Rub Contest the past two years. In 2008, they were the GrandChampion at the 20th annual Jack Daniel’s World ChampionshipInvitationalBarbecue.

Paulhas enjoyedKelly andRoni’s barbecueat4LegsUpBBQ threetimes.Thefirsttimehehadagreatbrisketsandwich,thenexttimetheirbarbecuedribs,andthethirdtime—wow!—hehadtheirsmokedprimerib. The more he thinks about it, the more his mouth waters inanticipationofenjoyingtheprimerib,whichisseasonedalotdifferentlyfrom any other he has tasted. Here is their recipe. Use premium orcertifiedAngusbeefthathasbeenwet-agedforatleast30daysandupto60days.Youcanseasonthemeatupto24hoursbeforecooking,butithastorestforatleast12hoursintheseasoningforgoodflavor.Thehorseradishsaucemakesagreatchipdip,too.

SMOKEDPRIMERIBServes10to12

HORSERADISHSAUCE

½cuppreparedhorseradish

1cupmayonnaise

1cupdairysourcream

2tablespoonsWorcestershiresauce

1tablespoonfreshlimejuice

1tablespoonblackpepper

2tablespoonsBadByron’sButtRuboryourfavoritebarbecue

seasoning

SEASONING

¼cupgroundcumin

¼cupseasalt

2tablespoonschilipowder

2tablespoonssugar

2tablespoonsgarlicpowder

2tablespoonsonionpowder

2tablespoonsblackpepper

1tablespoonpaprika

1tablespoondriedoregano

2teaspoonscayenne

1wholelip-oncertifiedAngusbeefribroast(12to15pounds)

Tomake the horseradish sauce, combine all the ingredients in a

nonreactivebowl.Coverandrefrigerate.

Tomaketheseasoningforthemeat,combinealltheingredientsin

anairtightcontainerandblendwell.Storeinacool,darkplace.

Placetheroastbottomsideupinalargeroastingpanorsheetpan.

Season the bottom of the roast heavilywith about a third of the

seasoning.Rubtheseasoningintothebottomsideoftheroast.Flip

theroastsothefatsideisup.

Withasharpknife,scorethroughthefatcapjustintothetoplayer

ofredmeat;donotscoretoodeeply.Scoreeveryinchorsoata45-

degreeanglefromtheupperleftcornertothelowerrightcornerof

theroast,goingallthewaytothelip(thehardfatonthenarrow

endoftheroast).

Season heavily with the rest of the seasoning. You will want to

covertheroastthickly,rubbingandpressingtheseasoningintothe

scores. This is a very large roast, so it takes a lot of seasoning.

Allowtheroasttorestovernightinthefridge—agood12hoursat

least.

Make sure your meat thermometer is calibrated. Preheat your

smokerto250°F,usingthewoodofyourchoice.Roastthemeatfor

4 to 6 hours, until the internal temperature of the meat is no

greaterthan130°F.Thiswillgiveyouarareroastinthecenter.

Remove the roast from the smoker andwrap in several layers of

plasticwrap.Allowtorestforatleast1hourbeforecarving;then

place the roast on a cuttingboard in a sheet pan.Cut theplastic

wrapandallowthejuicetodrainintothesheetpan.Thejuicecan

be served straight with the prime rib or reduced by half in a

saucepanon the stovewitha tablespoonor soofbutteraddedat

thelastminutetosmooththesauce.Donotusepremadeorcanned

beef “au jus.” Slice the meat and serve with the juice and the

horseradishsauce.

BarbecuedRibEye

RanchHouseBBQ&Steakhouse10841KennedyCreekRd.SWOlympia,WA98512360-866-8704http://www.ranchhousebbq.net

AmyAndersonandMelanieTapiaopenedtheRanchHouseBBQ& Steakhouse in 2004. Amy, a graduate of Paul’s pitmasterclasses, brings years ofworld-championship barbecue cooking

contest experience to Ranch House. Melanie, with her background inmarketing and event planning, plus some impressive barbecuecredentials as a competitor and founding member of the SouthernCalifornia BBQ Association, brings complementary business expertise.Melanie worked for several large companies before starting her owneventcompanyinCalifornia.Shehostedthefirstbarbecuecompetitionever in Southern California and has organized more than twenty-fiveothercontests.Amongthetwenty-fiveteamsfromfourstatesatthatfirstcontest were heavy hitters Bad Byron of Bad Byron’s Butt Rub, MikeScrutchfieldofTopSecret,andAmyAnderson’sSmokin’BulletfromthePacificNorthwest.That’swhereMelanieandAmymet.In2001Melaniemoved toWashington toassist in runningAmy’s cateringbusinessandnowtherestaurant.ThepeopleofOlympiaand themany touristswhovisithavegoodreasontocelebratethedayAmyandMelaniemet.TheybringanexemplarycommitmenttoexcellenceattheRanchHouseBBQ&Steakhouse.

TheoriginalRanchHousewasonthemajorhighwaytoandfromLakeOlympia, a great location. The red wooden shack with checkeredcurtainshadtherightauraandworld-classbarbecue.Wordspread,andbusiness was booming when, after 3½ years of growth and a pile ofawards, a100-foot-wide,15-foot-highwallofmudanddebris rumbledthroughtheproperty,takingeverythingalongwithit.RanchHouseBBQwasdestroyedonthemorningofMonday,December3,2007,whenthemudslide swallowed up the water and septic systems, tore apart therestaurant and outbuildings, destroyed the smokers that madeAnderson’s signature barbecuemeats and even the checkered curtainsthatmadecustomersfeelwelcome.

Thanks to the owners’ tenacity, with the help of overwhelmingcommunitysupport,RanchHouseBBQarose likethephoenixfromthe

smoke andmud.Within 48 hours, a local hotel had offered use of itsvacantrestaurantspace.Thankfulfortheopportunitytostayinbusiness,Ranch House BBQ operated temporarily in the Governor Hotel untilDecember2008.AloanfromtheSmallBusinessAdministrationmadeitpossibletorebuildandreopeninanewbuildingattheoriginallocation,tothedelightoftheirfans.

Amy’soriginal-recipedryrubisappliedtoallRanchHousebarbecuedmeatspriortosmokingwithappleandcherrywoodfromtheAndersonfamilyfarm.RanchHousehasbeenawarded“BestBBQofSouthSound”for severalyears ina rowdue to thiswinningcombinationof rubandsmoke.

RanchHouseBBQoffersafullrangeofchampionshipbarbecuedribs,brisket, pulled pork, and chicken, alongwith excellent charcoal-grilledsteaks. One of its signature items is smoked rib eye steak. It isoutstanding, especially if you order it medium-rare. Here, thanks topitmasterAmy,istherecipe.

BARBECUEDRIBEYEServes1

PRIMERIBRUB

2tablespoonswhitecanesugar

2tablespoonsseasalt

1tablespoongarlicpowder

1tablespoonpaprika

2teaspoonsgroundthyme

2teaspoonsgroundoregano

2teaspoonsfinelygroundblackpepper

1teaspoonlemonpepper

1teaspoonchipotlepowder

RIBEYE

cupyellowmustard

1wholebeefribeye(about13pounds)

Combinealltheingredientsfortherubinanairtightcontainerand

storeuntilreadytouse,orupto6months.

Lightlybrushtheyellowmustardalloveryourribeye.Thenlightly

sprinkleon thedry rub to coat themeat.Preheatyour smoker to

225°F. Place the meat fat side up in the smoker and cook for

approximately1hour. Let cool completely.Cut themeat into the

desiredsteaksize.RanchHousekeepsitbig—afullpound!Grillthe

steaksoverhotcoalstoyourdesireddoneness.Serveandenjoy.

BBQHALLSOFFLAME&FAME

Goode Company Barbeque in Houston started thefirst BarbequeHall of Flame. Then came the Kansas

City Barbeque Society BBQ Hall of Flame. A small

committee in Kansas City has been working on a

National Barbecue Hall of Fame and Museum since

2003.Meanwhiletwovirtualonlinehallsoffameare

hosted by the North Carolina Barbecue Society and

theKCBBQForum,respectively.

We applaud these noble efforts andwould love to

seeallrealorvirtualbarbecuehallsoffameorflame

grow into fully funded, continuously operated

institutions.Unfortunately,though,they’vebeenable

toreachfew,ifany,individualsoutsidethebarbecue

network. It’sOKtopreachtothechoir,but there’sa

lotofworkyettobedone(andmillionsofdollarsin

funding to make it first class) to reach out to the

general public and inspire a passion for barbecue

throughouttheland—agoalweheartilyendorse.

To reach that goal theultimateBBQHall of Fame

wouldhavetofeature:

Interactive displays that tell the story of

barbecuefromthousandsofyearsbackto

thepresent—the realhistoryofbarbecue

asfactuallyasitcanbepresented

Several dining rooms featuring regional

stylesofbarbecue

National and international guest

barbecue pitmasters each month,

teachingclassesanddesigningmenusfor

themonth—to truly appreciate barbecue

youhavetogetitonyourhandsandinto

yourbelly

Several indoor and outdoor

demonstration kitchens equipped with

thelatesttechnology

A large auditorium for presentations,

movies, and documentaries related to

barbecue

Abighotelandconferencecenter

Theabilitytohostfourmajorinvitational

competitionseachyear—spring, summer,

fall,winter

An archive of barbecue-related books,

newspapers, news clippings, videos,

DVDs,CDs,tapes,photos,etc.

A gift shop of barbecue memorabilia,

grills, pits, books, gadgets, CDs, DVDs,

sauces,rubs,posters,andmore

H

Peoplehavetoexperiencebarbecuetolearntolove

it.Canithappen?Yes!Willithappen?Maybe.

St.LouisPorkSteak

Charlotte’sRibBBQ15467ClaytonRd.St.Louis,MO63011636-394-3332http://www.charlottesribbbq.com

erbSchwarzwasknowninbarbecuecirclesforhisfamousSt.Louis restaurant, Charlotte’s Rib, and for his many cookingandsaucecontestawards,includingaGrandChampionwinat

the American Royal, the World Series of Barbecue. Herb’s barbecuehandlewas“Dr.Rollin’River,”andhisbarbecue legacy ismighty, likethe river that runs through St. Louis. After 25 successful years atCharlotte’sRib,Herb andhis belovedwife, Pat, turnedCharlotte’sRibover to their children.Today theirdaughter, Lisa,with co-ownerScottBrown,runsCharlotte’sRib,andtheirson,Joe,runsC.B.Joe’s inBonTerre,southofSt.Louis.

OneofArdie’sfavoritememoriesofHerbisofsharingabarbecuetourof the best barbecue restaurants in St. Louis. The last stop wasCharlotte’sRib.Ardiewas so fullofbarbecue thathecouldn’t imagineeating another bite. Herb ordered ribs and a huge pork steak. As hisguest,ArdiefeltlikehehadtotakeatleastatokenbiteandthankHerbfor his hospitality. After a bite of rib and a bite of steak, he threwpolitenesstothewindandatethewholething.Charlotte’swasthebestbarbecueonthetour!

We’re proud to report that Lisa, Scott, and Joe learned their lessons

well. Charlotte’s Rib is still one of the best barbecue restaurants inAmerica.Here,thankstoLisaandScott,isDr.Rollin’River’sCharlotte’sRibSt.LouisFavoriteHugeHand-CutPorkSteak.

ST.LOUISPORKSTEAKServes8(or1withaheartyappetite)

¼cupcanolaoil

8(¾-inch-thick)porksteaks

Seasonedsalttotaste

Charlotte’sRibMildHickoryorSpicySouthernBarbecueSauce

oryourfavoritesauce

Setupandpreheat your smoker to cook indirectly at230°-240°F.

Meanwhile,heattheoil inalargeskilletoverhighheatuntilhot.

Sear each steakonboth sides, about3minutesper side. Sprinkle

seasonedsaltalloverthesteaks.Smokefor3to4hours,untilfork-

tender, thenbrushonCharlotte’sRibMildHickoryor, for a little

kicker,Charlotte’sRibSpicySouthernBarbecueSaucetotastefora

finishing touch. Then get ready for some of this world’s greatest

eatin’.

A

Rib-EyeSteak

LouieMuellerBarbecue206W.2ndStreetTaylor,TX76574512-352-6206http://www.louiemuellerbarbecue.com

rdie’s father-in-law, the lateLeopoldWalterMueller, from thesmall townofBuffaloLake,Minnesota,wouldhave loved thisplace. The name from his heritage, of course, would be an

obviousdraw,butonce insidehewouldhave taken to thepeople, thefood,andthesmalltownfriendlyfeelofLouieMueller.Afterfinishingagenerousspreadofbrisket,porkribs,sausage,pintobeans,German-stylepotatosalad,rawonions,pickles,andacoldShinerBock,hewouldhavemingledwithothercustomersasiftheywereoldfriends.

LouieMueller’sexteriorlookslikeasetfromaHollywoodwestern.Aweatheredsignabovethesidewalkroofreads“LouieMuellerBarbeque.”You know the joint is open for business when a big American flag iswavingfromapolestuckintheconduitpipeinthefrontsidewalk.

Tousthejointfeelslikeashrineeachtimeweopenthescreendoorand step inside. It’s a special place for sure—a stone, brick, andwoodstructure with tall ceilings, an assortment of tables and chairs, smokywalls,andacounterinthebackfortakingorders.Abigdoorwayopenstoamorerecentaddition,anannexconvertedfromtheadjacentcornerbuildingtohandletheoverflowfromthemaindiningroom.Ithastakenonthesmokypatinaandhasbeeninstalledwithenoughsignsandothermemorabilia fromthemotherbuilding thatanewcomerwouldassumetheplacehasalwaysbeenthisbig.

TaylorisourbuddyJohnRaven’shometown,andJohnisnostrangerto LouieMueller. The first timeArdiemet John in person, aftermanyyearsofexchanging snailmailand, later,e-mail, Johnwas sitting inachairagainstawall inLouieMueller.TherewasnodoubtwhenArdiesawhim,abig fellow inabrightyellow long-sleevedT-shirt,wideredsuspenders,longwhitehair,andbushymustache,thathewaslookingatDaredevilBadMcFad,CommissionerofBarbecue—themanwhoknowsmoreaboutbarbecuethananybody.

John toldus, “Were I to recommendLouieMueller’s toa stranger, IwouldtellhimitisaTexastradition.ItisasTexasasthestatecapital.Muchof the100-year-oldbuilding is still in itsoriginalcondition. It isjustauniqueplace.Youneedtogothereevenifyouareavegetarian.”

Featuredintwodocumentaries—Barbecue:ATexasLoveStoryandTheMastersofTexasBarbecue—plusappearancesinthreefeaturefilms—HotSpot (1990), Flesh and Bones (1993), and The Rookie (2002)—LouieMuellerhasmorecinemacreditsthananyotherbarbecuejointweknowabout.

Responsibility for daily operations is now in the hands of WayneMueller,thethirdgenerationofMuellerstoruntheplace.Itgoesbackto1949whenfounderLouieMuellerstartedcookingbarbecueandsellinginthealleybehindhisgrocerystore.Hemovedtothepresentlocationin1959.Louie’sson,Bobby,joinedthebusinessfull-timein1965,andtookfullownershipin1974whenLouieretired.Thejointhasreceivedmanyaccolades in print and TV media over the years, with the crowning

achievement being a James Beard Award in the “America’s Classic”divisionin2006.WhenBobbydiedin2008,Waynetookover.Weandthousands of other Louie Mueller fans are grateful to Wayne forcontinuingthelegacy.

RIB-EYESTEAKServes4

4(12-ounce)bone-inrib-eyesteaks

Coarselygroundblackpepper

Salt

Setupyoursmokerwithpostoakoroakwoodtocookindirectlyat

375°F. Season the steaks all over with salt and pepper to taste.

Place in the smoker and cook for 45 to 60 minutes or to the

donenessyoudesire.Enjoy—thisisaclassic!

AstandardintroductiontothemeatsofLouieMuellershouldincludebrisket,sausage,porkribs,andbeefribs,butweheartilyrecommendareturn visit for the 12-ounce rib-eye steak. It is a smokehouse steak—slow smoked to medium-well—not a grilled hot and fast steakhousesteak.We’refansofthelatterstyleaswell,butthere’ssomethingspecialabout a LouieMueller smoked rib-eye seasoned with a simple mix ofpepper and salt; it is a special culinary pleasure not to bemissed. It’sgood enough tomake a former omnivore turned vegetarian go into atemporary relapse. Here is our version, but there’s no duplicating theatmosphere and flavors from sitting at Louie Mueller on location andsavoringtheexperience.The steak, like the othermeats at LouieMueller, is served on butcherpaper.ThisisoneofJohnRaven’spetpeeves,buthe’saregularatLouieMuellernonetheless.

T

SlaughterhouseFiveRibs

OklahomaJoe’sBarbecueandCatering3002W.47thAve.KansasCity,KS66103913-722-3366http://www.oklahomajoesbbq.com

he dream in sport barbecue is to go from grand championpitmastertosuccessfulbarbecuerestaurateur.IthashappenedinTennessee, Texas, Illinois, Missouri, Kansas, and elsewhere.

KansasCity,Kansas,iswherethedreamiscomingtrueforJoyandJeffStehney. After years of winning trophies and ribbons with Jeff’sSlaughterhouse Five competition barbecue team, Joy and Jeff jumpedinto thebarbecue restaurantbusiness.Theybrought twodifferences tothetablefromotherswhohavepursuedthedream:(1)Theysetouttooffer championship contest-quality barbecue instead of restaurant-quality barbecue. (2) Instead of a roadside shack, greasehouse, orstandard table service restaurant, they converted a gas station andformerautopartsdealershipintoabarbecuerestaurant.Yes,youcaneathereandgetgas.TheplacestartedoutasaWesternAutostore,thenaconveniencestorewithgasandliquor,thenaGoChickenGorestaurant,beforeitbecamefamousasOklahomaJoe’s.

Most days you’d best arrive early (they open at 11:00 A.M.) or later,past the lunchanddinner rush,unlessyoudon’tmindstanding in linefor30 to45minutes.Findingavacant tableby the timeyougetyourorder usually isn’t a problem. Sometimes you’ll share a table withstrangers. People aren’t strangers for long, however,when barbecue isonthetable.

Thewallsarecoveredwithsportbarbecuephotos,banners,andothermemorabilia. Shelves next to the cash register feature trophies, gift

baskets, sauces, and rubs for sale.Acorrugatedmetal canopyover theorder linedisplaysavarietyofT-shirtsyoucanbuy.Themostpopularsays, “I can’t believe my favorite barbecue place is in a gas station.”Serviceattheorder/pickuplineisfast,friendly,andefficient.Theywanttohelpyouandwillhonorspecialrequestsorsubstitutions.

Our favorites at Oklahoma Joe’s are the ribs, the beef, and theCarolinapulledpork.Thebestsidesaretherub-seasonedfries(oneordereasilyservestwo)andthespicycoleslaw.Theribsarepull-off-the-bonetender(asopposedtofall-off-the-bone)andflavorfulwiththerightkissofsmokeandseasonings.Thebrisketislean,tender,andsmoky—exactlyasyou’dwant it ifyouwere judging inabarbecuecontest.Thepulledpork is juicy, tender, and not overpowered by seasonings. The spicycoleslaw is a perfect complement. The chicken ismoist, flavorful, andpleasinglycrispyontheoutside.ThepopularZ-ManSandwich,barbecuebeef garnished with an onion ring, provolone cheese, and barbecuesauce,isafauxfast-foodnoveltysandwichthathasitsfairshareoffans.Locally brewed Boulevard Wheat Beer goes well with any of the Joecuisine,asdothesoftdrinks,water,oricedtea.

JoyandJeffalsorunapopularOklahomaJoe’sinOlathe,asuburbontheKansassideoftheKCmetroarea.Nestledinabusyshoppingcenter,the decor is more upscale but echoes the home location withstrategically placed corrugated roofing metal and walls adorned withbarbecue contest memorabilia. The Olathe Joe’s does feature a full-servicebar.

Two essentials for success in Kansas City barbecue are outstandingbrisketand ribs.Here’s the secret to theoutstanding ribsatOklahomaJoe’s.

SLAUGHTERHOUSEFIVERIBSServes4to8

2tablespoonswhitecanesugar

1tablespoonlightbrownsugar

2tablespoonsHungarianpaprika

2tablespoonsLawry’sSeasonedSalt

1½teaspoonschilipowder

1½teaspoonsgroundcumin

1teaspoongranulatedonion

1teaspoonwhitepepper

1teaspoonfinelygroundblackpepper

2(2½-pound)slabsspareribs

In a small bowl, combine the sugars, paprika, seasoned salt, chili

powder, cumin,onion,whitepepper, andblackpepperandblend

well.Youcandothisaheadoftime,cover,andstoreinacool,dark

placeuntilreadytouse.

To prepare the ribs, remove themembrane from the back of the

slaband trimanyexcess fat. Season the slabsall overwithall of

therub.Coverandletrestintherefrigeratorforatleast2hoursor

overnight.

Cook the ribs using the indirect method at 275°F. Jeff says that

cooking the ribs at the higher temperature does two things: it

rendersthefatbetter,andyougetmoreflavorfulribs.Cooktheribs

for5to6hours,turningthemevery2hours.

Theribsaredonewhenyoucaneasilytearorpulltworibsapart.

Memphis-StyleBarbecuedRibs

Jack’sBar-B-Que416BroadwayNashville,TN37203615-254-5715http://www.jacksbarbque.com

JackCawthonisknownasthe“Bar-B-QueKingofNashville,”andhehasearnedthetitle.Hehasbeeninthebarbecuebusinessfor20 years, catering and running a succession of Nashville

restaurants. There’s a popular Jack’s in Nashville’s historic Talbot’sCorner,butJackstartedJack’sBar-B-QueonthecornerofBroadwayand1stAvenue in a tiny concrete block building. Jack later renovated thebuildingandaddedapatiooverlookingRiverfrontParkandBroadway.

The Broadway location couldn’t be better. It’s a few doors downBroadway fromTootsiesOrchidLounge, the famoushonky-tonkwherelegendary Grand Ole Opry stars lingered in the radio show’s Ryman-basedheyday.LikeTootsies,Jack’senjoysanunobstructedviewacrossRymanAlleytothearched,stone-and-brickstageentranceofNashville’sfamous Ryman Auditorium. After decades of minimal use, therejuvenatedauditoriumbeganhostingperformancesagain.Jacksprucedupaformerloadingzonebehindhisplace,setouttables,andkeptdoingwhathedoeswellinthekitchen.

CustomerslatelyhaverecognizedLyleLovett,EmmylouHarris,MerleHaggard, LorrieMorgan,GarrisonKeillor, andmanyothers among theluminaries dashing toward those venerable steps. But seeing theoccasional country star among the flow of stagehands, backup bands,andhit-makerwannabesaren’t theonlyattractionatJack’sBar-B-Que.Jackalsoservesfineplatesofsmokedporkandbeefbrisket.

The food is good—basic, flavorful, filling.Variety counts, too. Inhisformative years as abarbecue connoisseur, Jack couldn’t settle ononeidea. So he studied techniques for smoking Tennessee-style porkshoulders,Texas-stylebeefbrisket,St.Louis-styledryribs,andsausageandchickentreatmentsdrawnfromhistravelsintheCarolinas,Georgia,andKentucky.Ifyougetatableonthebackpatio,kickbackandenjoythe show. There’s no playbill. You watch whoever happens down thealley—justasJackdoes.

Jack serves some of the finest barbecue ribs in the South. Here isJack’srecipe.

MEMPHIS-STYLEBARBECUEDRIBSServes4to6

HANDRUB

2tablespoonssalt

1tablespoonsugar

1tablespoonpaprika

¼cupchilipowder

1tablespooncayenne

¼cupblackpepper

2¾poundsCurly’s(a.k.a.St.Louis)spareribs

Using hickory wood, preheat an enclosed pit with a flat rack to

250°F.Inasmallbowl,combinethehandrubingredientsandmix

well.Generouslyrubthemixtureintotheribs.Placetheribsinthe

pit and cook them for approximately 4 hours. After the ribs are

done,wrapthemtokeepthemtenderuntilserving.

Hogmatism:

Specifically, the belief that pig barbecue—not beef,

lamb, chicken, or other meats—is the only true

barbecue. Generally, a set of rigid, narrow-minded

beliefsaboutbarbecue.

GlazedBarbecuedRibs

NorthMainBBQ403N.MainEuless,TX76039817-267-7821or817-283-0884

Fhttp://www.northmainbbq.com

oundedin1981byHubertGreen,DollieGreen,RayGreen,andEddie Kelsey, North Main BBQ claims to be the “Home of theWorld’s Best Ribs,” backed bymore than 27 years of barbecue

experience.PaulhasbeenenjoyingNorthMainBBQ forover18yearsandwillbegoingbackwheneverhe’sintheDallas/ForthWortharea.

NorthMainBBQservesanall-you-can-eatlunchanddinnerbuffetthatincludes it’s award-winning ribs, chopped and sliced beef brisket,chicken breasts and quarters, pork shoulder, sausage, ranch beans,potato salad, and coleslaw. The meats are slow-cooked with hickorysmoke for 4 to 12 hours. If you want any drink other than iced tea,you’llhavetoBYOB.

In theearly1980s theGreensownedandoperatedavery successfultruckingcompany,theGreenTruckingCompany.Thetrucksmadeearlydeliveries and returnedby latemorningor early afternoononFridays,andafterthattheemployeeswouldsitaroundandhaveafewLoneStarsandsomeicedtea,startingtheirFridaynightsearlyandsocializing.Thiswent on for some time. Then one Friday Hubert decided to barbecuesomeribs,whicheverybodyenjoyed.Thiswentonforashorttime,andthegroupgrewandgrew.Peopletheydidn’tknowwereinvitedbytheirfriends,friendswouldchipinmoneyfortheribs,andeventuallyitwasgetting,shallwesay,outofhand,goingfromtwoslabstotwocasesofribsinaveryshorttime.Figuringthatthiswasalotmorefunthanthetrucking business, but not wanting to give up a good company, theystartedtherestaurantandkeptthetruckingcompanyrolling.Nowitwaswork, but it was also fun, and it was making money. They ran bothbusinessesforawhile,buteventuallythebarbecuewonout.

One night while sitting out back enjoying the shade, Hubert wasasked,“Ifyougetmoresuccessful,areyougoing toopenonSunday?”Hubertcalmlysaid,“No,I’llprobablycloseonSaturdayormaybeclosefor lunches!” That was Hubert’s original feeling, but he laterreconsidered,sayingtheyneededtotakecareofthepeoplegettingout

ofchurchonSundays.

Anybody in the restaurant business who sees North Main’s buffetwould say the buffet is set up backward,with themeat first. And theGreens’answertothatis,“No,itisn’t.”It’ssetuptogivetheircustomersthebestbarbecueNorthMainhas,andthenpeoplecanhavethesaladsand beans if they want. And that’s one reason they have such goodbarbecue:thecustomercomesfirstandalwayswill.

NorthMain’sboastofhavingtheworld’sbestribsmightbetrue.We’llletyoudecide.YoucanordertherealNorthMainSecretSpicethroughtheWeb site. The spice recipe heremakesmore than you’ll need, butyoucanstoreleftoverspiceinanairtightcontainerforupto6months.HereisouradaptationoftheGreens’recipe.

GLAZEDBARBECUEDRIBSServes6to8

SECRETSPICE

Makesabout1½cups

½cupsugar

¼cupseasonedsalt

¼cupgarlicsalt

3tablespoonschilipowder

1tablespoonpaprika

1tablespoonfinelygroundblackpepper

1teaspooncayenne

2slabsSt.Louis-stylespareribs

FINISHINGMOPANDGLAZE

¼cupketchup

¼cupyellowmustard

¼to cupdistilledwhitevinegar

1cuppackedlightbrownsugar

Tomakethesecretspice,combinealltheingredientsinanairtight

containerandblendwell.Storeinacool,dryplaceuntilreadyto

useorupto6months.

Preheatyoursmokerto230°-250°F.Seasontheribsallovertotaste

withthesecretspice.Youcanstoretherestofthesecretspicefor

upto6months.Placeinyoursmokerandcookfor4to6hours,or

untildone.

While the ribs are smoking, make the finishing mop and glaze.

Combine the ingredients in a small saucepan over medium heat,

stirringoccasionally,andsimmerfor15minutes.Removefromthe

heatandcooltoroomtemperature.

Inthelast10minutesofcookingtime,moptheribsalloverwith

thefinishingsauce.Removefromthesmokerandletrestfor15to

30minutes.Sliceandserve.

L

RibTips

Lem’sBar-B-QHouse311E.75thSt.Chicago,IL60619773-994-2428

em’sandBarbaraAnn’sarethetwobestreasonswecanthinkofforatriptoChicago.BarbaraAnn’slinksandLem’sribtipswithfriesmakeafeastfit forroyalty,andthat’showyou’ll feelfrom

firstbitetolast.

JamesLemon,proprietor,has livedonChicago’sSouthSidesincehemoved fromMississippi in 1942. Later he joined his other brothers tohelp run the barbecue joint established by the oldest brother, Miles,a.k.a.“Lem,”in1951.Thebrothershadahistoryofbarbecuinghogsinahomemade brick pit their father built in their hometown, Indianola.TodayJamesistheonlysurvivingbrother,andwe’rethankfulheisstillrunningthebusiness.

We’rebig fansof rib tips.There’snoduplicatingLem’s rib tipswith“spicy gravy”—that’s what Mother Lemon called her special barbecuesauce—butwhenyoucan’tbeinChicago,wehopeourribtipsandspicy

saucewillprovokesomegoodmemories.

RIBTIPSServes4to6

DRYRUB

¼cuppackedlightbrownsugar

2tablespoonsseasonedsalt

1tablespoonchilipowder

2teaspoonsfinelygroundblackpepper

1teaspooncayenne

1teaspoonOldBayseasoning

1teaspoonrubbedsage

1teaspoononionpowder

BARBECUESAUCE

cupketchup

¼cuppackedlightbrownsugar

2tablespoonsgranulatedsugar

2tablespoonsapplecidervinegar

1tablespoonchilipowder

1teaspoondrymustard

2tablespoonsWorcestershiresauce

1teaspoonseasalt

1teaspoonfinelygroundblackpepper

½teaspoongarlicpowder

½teaspoongroundceleryseeds

4poundsribtips

Tomakethedryrub,combinethebrownsugar,seasonedsalt,chili

powder, pepper, cayenne, Old Bay, sage, and onion powder and

blendwell.Storeinanairtightcontainerinacool,darkplaceuntil

readytouse,forupto6months.

Tomakethebarbecuesauce,combinetheketchup,sugars,vinegar,

chili powder, dry mustard, Worcestershire sauce, salt, pepper,

garlicpowder, and celery seeds ina saucepanovermediumheat,

stirringtodissolveallthesugars.Heat,stirringoccasionally,for30

minutes.Cooltoroomtemperature.

Setupyoursmokertocookindirectlyat250°F.Seasontheribtips

alloverwiththebarbecuerub.Placeonthesmokerandbarbecue

for4to5hours,oruntiltheribstearaparteasily,bastingwiththe

sauceduringthelast30minutesofcooking.

Pigot:

Anindividualwhoishogmatic, i.e.,believesthat

the only true barbecue is pig barbecue; usually

exhibitsotherhogmaticbeliefsandbehaviors.

BarbecuePorkButt

17thStreetBar&Grill

T

17thStreetBar&Grill32N.17thSt.Murphysboro,IL62966618-648-3722http://www.17thstreetbarbecue.com

his isMikeMills’shomebaseand thebirthplaceofabarbecuedynasty. Mike’s other barbecue joints are listed in the box onpage 59. Mike is also the barbecue guru and partner in Blue

SmokeRestaurantinNewYorkCity.

Mikeishumblyknownas“TheLegend.”Wehavenoideawherethattitle came from, butwe assume itwas due to his great success in theMemphisinMayWorldChampionshipBarbecueCookingContest.For13yearshewas theonlypersonwhose teamwon three times.His recordwas tied in2006.Mikehad said that if thathappenedhewouldcomeoutofretirementandcompeteatMemphis inMayagain,butwethinkhe has better sense than that.Mike is one of themost knowledgeablepersonsinbarbecue,andheisnotafraidtosharehisknowledge.

When Paul went to 17th Street, he was treated like a king (or abaron).Didthatswayhiscritique?Notatall.PaulhadsomeofMike’soutstanding ribs, brisket, chickenwings, and pulled pork. Then,whilegettingatourofthekitchen,hesawagreatmealbeingserved,onehecouldn’tbelievewasintendedforasingleindividual.Mikesaid,“That’swhat we call a ‘pounder.’” Listed on the menu as a pound of porkshoulder, it’s a pound-plus of pulled or choppedpork servedwith twoside orders. Here Mike shares the recipe with us. You can order theMagicDustfrom17thStreet’sWebsite.

IsBarbecueBetterThanSex?

Ardie and his barbecue buddies Phil and CherylLitmanwereon thebankof theMississippiatApple

CitySmokerschewingonsomeofthebestbabyback

ribsanyofthemhadevertasted.JuliaRoseSampson,

a Judge’sChairpersonatMemphis inMay that year,

was with them, andMikeMills and Pat Burke gave

her a few ribs to try hot off the smoker. She began

moaning and groaning and said that the ribs were

betterthensex.Cheryl,withherquickwit,responded

immediately,“Alldependswhoyou’rehavingsexwithorwhosebarbecueyou’reeating.”

BARBECUEPORKBUTTMakes15to18good-sizesandwiches

1(5-to8-pound)porkbutt

½ cup 17th Street Bar&GrillMagicDust (recipe follows) or

yourownrub

MOPPINGSAUCE

2cupsapplecidervinegar

2tablespoonsdarkbrownsugar

1tablespooncanolaoil

1tablespoonseasalt

1tablespoonchilipowder

1teaspooncayenne

GLAZE

1cupAppleCityBarbecueSauce(recipefollows)

PULLEDPORKFINISHINGSAUCE(OPTIONAL)

½cupAppleCityBarbecueSauce

¼cupapplecidervinegar

1 to2 tablespoons17thStreetBar&GrillMagicDust (recipe

follows)

Piercetheporkbuttalloverwithadinnerforkandseasonallover

with theMagic Dust. Pierce it again to get the rub to penetrate,

placetheporkbuttitinapan,cover,andrefrigeratefor4hoursor

overnight.

Remove the meat from the refrigerator and let it come to room

temperature,aboutanhour.Heatyoursmokerto230°-250°F.Mike

uses a combination of charcoal and applewood,which gives the

meatasweeter taste.“Don’toversmoke themeat,”cautionsMike.

“Smokeshouldbeaningredient,notanoverwhelmingtaste.”Place

theporkbutt,fatsideup,inthesmokerandcookitindirectlyfor8

to12hours,oruntil the internal temperatureof themeatreaches

165°-175°Fonaninstant-readthermometerifyou’regoingtoslice

themeat,185°-195°Fifyou’regoingtopullthemeat.

Right after you put the meat in the smoker, make the mopping

sauce. Place the vinegar, ½ cup of water, brown sugar, oil, salt,

chili powder, and cayenne in a saucepan.Bring to aboil, stirring

constantlytodissolvealltheingredients.Setasidetocooltoroom

temperature.

After1to1½hours,startmoppingtheporkbuttwiththemopping

sauceevery30to45minutes,orasnecessary.Turnandrotatethe

porkbuttasnecessarytoavoidhotspotsinyourpit.

After 5 hours, check the internal temperature. The higher the

internal temperature, themoretenderthemeatwillbe.Whenthe

internaltemperatureiswhereyouwantitforslicing,usingapastry

brushtobrushtheporkbuttwithbarbecuesauceandcookitfor10

to15minutes,repeatingtheprocessasmanytimesasyouliketo

glaze. Mike suggests only twice. Remove the pork butt from the

smoker,placeitonacuttingboard,andletitrest,covered,for15

to20minutes.Removetheboneandsliceandservewithbarbecue

sauceontheside.

If you are going to pull or chop the pork butt, take it out of the

smokerwhenthemeatisinthehighertemperaturerange,putitin

a large pan, and let it rest, covered, for 15 to 20minutes.Using

heavy-duty dinner forks, pull the pork butt to shreds. Mix the

finishingsauce ingredientsandaddhalfof this sauce to thepork.

Blenditin,addingmoreasneededwithoutoverdoingit;youdon’t

wanttheporktobesloppy.

Makesandwicheswith theslicedorpulledporkand finishwitha

swizzle of Apple City Barbecue Sauce or your favorite barbecue

sauce.

ManythankstoMikeandAmyforsharingtheirrecipes,whichhave

beenadaptedandreprintedwithpermissionfromtheirbookPeace,

Love,andBarbecue(Rodale,©2005MikeMills).

APPLECITYBARBECUESAUCEMakes3cups

1cupketchup(theyuseHunt’s)

½cupseasonedricevinegar

½cupapplejuiceorcider

¼cupapplecidervinegar

½cuppackedbrownsugar

¼cupsoysauceorWorcestershiresauce

2teaspoonspreparedyellowmustard

¾teaspoongarlicpowder

¼teaspoongroundwhitepepper

¼teaspooncayenne

cupbaconbits,groundinaspicegrinder

½cupgratedonion

Combine the ketchup, rice vinegar, apple juice, cider vinegar,

brown sugar, soy sauce, mustard, garlic powder, white pepper,

cayenne, andbaconbits ina large saucepan.Bring toaboilover

medium-highheat.Stirintheonion.Reducetheheatandsimmer,

uncovered,10to15minutesoruntilitthickensslightly.Stiroften.

Allowtocool,thenpourintosterilizedglassbottles.Aglassjarthat

usedtocontainmayonnaiseorjuiceworkswell.Youcanstorethe

sauceintherefrigeratorforupto2weeks.

VARIATION:Tomakethissaucealittlehotter,addmorecayennetotaste,approximatelyanother¼to½

teaspoon.Becareful;alittlecayennegoesalongway.

MAGICDUST®Makesabout2½cups

½cuppaprika

¼cupkoshersalt,finelyground

¼cupsugar

2tablespoonsmustardpowder

¼cupchilipowder

¼cupgroundcumin

2tablespoonsgroundblackpepper

¼cupgranulatedgarlic

2tablespoonscayenne

Mixall ingredientsandstoreinatightlycoveredcontainer.You’ll

want to keep some in a shaker next to the grill or stove. Keeps

indefinitelybutwon’tlastlong.

MIKEMILLS’SBARBECUEEMPIRE17thStreetBarandGrill

32N.17thSt.

Murphysboro,IL

618-684-3722

270017thStreet

Marion,IL

618-998-1114

1711W.Hwy.50

O’Fallon,IL

618-622-1717

WorldShooting&RecreationalCenter

OneMainEventLane

Sparta,IL

618-295-2754

D

MemphisChampionshipBarbecue

2250EastWarmSpringsRd.

LasVegas,NV

702-260-6909

4379LasVegasBlvd.atCraig

LasVegas,NV

702-664-0000

1401SouthRainbowBlvd.

LasVegas,NV

702-254-0520

BarbecuedPorkSteakwithChunkyApplesauce

IronhorseBarbequeCompany2801Hwy.49NorthParagould,AR72451870-239-9758

ave and Lynn Aronson started the Ironhorse Barbeque Co. in1999,andit’sagoodexampleofwhatgoodfood,goodservice,and great barbecue can do to build a business. Their slogan:

Ourbuttsaresmokin’foryou.

Dave is ameat cutter, so he knows goodmeat and knows how andwhere to buy. He cuts all his ownmeat, grinds the burgermeat, andmakestheburgers.AllthemeatisfreshatIronhorse,neverfrozen.

TheIronhorseisaconvertedconveniencestoreandgasstationthatisalso Paragould’s first and only motorcycle-themed restaurant. We satdownand asked to seeDave, andhe cameout andgaveus the grandtourofhisverycleankitchen.WetoldDavewehadheardgreatthingsabouthisporksteaksandaskedtotryone.Inourbarbecuetravels,wehadalreadyhadfivemealsthatday,includingfourpigsandwiches,ribsandbrisket,beans,andpotatosalad,sowewerejustgoingtotastehispork steak,not eatawholeone.Dave’s staffgenerouslybroughtoutaslabofribsandtwoporksteaks,withsides.Wereluctantlysentoneofthe steaks back. We each tried a delicious rib and then cut a smallportionofporksteak(whichwastenderenoughforaplasticfork),anditwasgreat.Thatwasallwethoughtwecouldeatsincewehadonemoreplace to taste,butwe satand talkedbarbecue foranother30minutes,andweendeduppickingatthatporksteakuntilitwasgone.Itwasthatgood!HereisDave’srecipe.Hesliceshisownsteaksfromanicesquare-cutporkbutt,andheusesaSouthernPridesmoker.

BARBECUED PORK STEAK WITH CHUNKYAPPLESAUCEServes1

8(1-inchor½-inch)porksteaks(astenderasamother’slove)

Barbecuerubofyourchoice

CHUNKYAPPLESAUCE

2tablespoonscanolaoil

8tablespoons(1stick)butter

3or4GrannySmithapples,peeledandcutinto¼-inchslices

1cupraisins

1½cupspackedlightbrownsugar

½cupCaptainMorgan’sspicedrum

Season your steaks on both sides with the rub. If you’re using

Ironhorse’s seasoning, it’s not real salty, so be generous with it.

Cover the seasoned steaks with plastic wrap and refrigerate

overnight.

Preheat your smoker to225°F.The steaksneed tobe cooked low

and slowwithmoist heat. A 1-inch steak takes about 6 hours to

cook, and a ½-inch steak takes about 4 hours. When the steaks

comeoff the smoker, they should be so tender you can cut them

withaplasticfork.Placethesteaksinacoolerorplasticcontainer

withalidfor30minutesbeforeservingtoallowthemtosteamand

tenderizefurther.

Whilethesteaksareresting,maketheapplesaucebyplacingtheoil

and butter in a large skillet overmedium heat.When the butter

melts, add theapple slices and cookuntil soft, 10 to15minutes.

Addtheraisins,brownsugar,andrumandcookoverlowheatuntil

yougetachunkysauceconsistency,about30minutes.Serveonthe

sidewiththeporksteaksorpouritoverthem.

BarbecuedPigSnoots

SmokiO’s1545N.Broadway

SSt.Louis,MO63102314-621-8180

moki O’s is a small barbecue joint just up from the footballstadium area of St. Louis. In business for more than 11 years,Smoki O’s seats only about 10 customers, but takeout is also

available. The side dishes here are homemade—and good. Theirspecialtyisapigsnootandribtipscombo.BecausePaulgrewupeatingpigsnootsandwiches,hefavorsthesnootssansribtips.Ardielikesthecombo, a perfect combination of tender pork rib meat with crunchysnoot.

WeregretthatKansasCityhasnojointswithpigsnootsthatcompareto Smoki O’s pig snoots. We (especially Paul) consider ourselvesfortunate that there’s one joint inKC that serves pig snoots, thanks toRicardo Herrera, proprietor of the Tenderloin Grill on SouthwestBoulevard,homeof“PigSnootHeaven.”

Although Ricardo doesn’t serve barbecue, and his snoots are a worldaway from Smoki O’s in cooking method, we like to go there fortenderloinsandwiches,burgers,andsnoots.Ardiehasn’tmadeitthrougha whole snoot sandwich yet, even after downing a shot of Pig’s NoseScotch first.Pauldowns themwithgusto reminiscentofaNewYorkereatingclamsoroystersonthehalfshell.Ardiesaystheytastelikebaconfatwithbarnyardrub.Whenhegetstothewhiskers,hestopsandordersatenderloinsandwichoracheeseburger.

SmokiO’ssnootsaredifferentinthatOtisdoesn’tcookthenostril,andby the time the snoots are smoked to a crisp and soaked in warmbarbecue sauce, there is no hint of fat or barnyard flavors. You alsowon’t find any bristly whiskers. Otis cooks them whole, then breaksthemup.SmokiO’sbarbecuesauce,servedwarm,isatomatobasewithamixofsweetandsour.

Paul firstmet Otis and EarlineWalker in New York City at the BigApple Barbecue Block Party, which is an invitational, charitablebarbecue party put on byDannyMeyers, owner of several restaurantsandamajorrestaurateurinNewYorkCity.OneofhisrestaurantsisBlueSmokeBBQ.Thewholecityiswelcometocometotheblockpartyandbuysamplesofbarbecuefromasmanyas10invitedbarbecuepitmastersfromaroundthecountry.Paulwas invitedas theKansasCityBaronofBarbecue,cookingcertifiedAngusbrisket.ThiswasthebirthofRUB—RighteousUrbanBBQ—butthat’sanotherstory.Otiswasinvitedforhisbarbecuedsnootsandribtips,thebestinSt.Louis.

Paul talked with Otis about his technique for smoking snoots. Therecipeisabove.Whenyouwantribtipswithyoursnoots,trytheLem’sRibTipsrecipeonpage54.

BARBECUEDPIGSNOOTSMakes12

12pigsnoots

Barbecuesauce

First,washthesnootswellwithcoldwater,thenslicethemwitha

verysharpknifeintostripsabout2incheswide.Placethestripsin

alargepotofwater,bringittoaboilovermedium-highheat,and

boil for about an hour. The water will develop a white foam or

skin,butdon’tworry,that’sthefatcookingoutofthem.Afterthey

hardboilforaboutanhour,rinsethemoffwellwithcoldwater.

Setupyourgrilltocookonlow,directheat(seepage206).Ifyour

grillwillallowit,it’sbesttocookthesnoots12to14inchesfrom

thecoals.The snootsdripa lotofgrease, andyouhave towatch

themcloselyastheycanflameupandberuinedinabriefmoment

ifthecoalsaretooclose.Ifthecoalsarefartheraway,theflame-up

justburns itselfoutwithoutburning the snoots. If youcan’tkeep

the snoots far enough from the coals, just use a small amount of

charcoalorbriquettestokeeptheheatlow.

Grillthesnoots,turningthemoften,untiltheycrisp,1½to2hours.

Don’t put any sauce on them while they are cooking, but cover

themwithsauceassoonasyoutakethemoffthegrilliftheyareto

beeaten immediately.Theykeepwell in the refrigeratorandwill

immediatelycrispupagainifyoudon’tputsauceontheonesyou

aren’t eating immediately. Just take them out of the refrigerator

andputthemintheovenat350°Ffor15to20minutes,uncovered.

Topwithsauceandserve.

S

JamaicanJerkHogWings

Gordon’sontheGreen13500InterurbanAve.SouthTukwila,WA98168206-267-7427http://www.gordonsonthegreen.com

everal years ago, while Paul was traveling with Bob Lyon, thepower who created the Pacific Northwest BBQ Association(PNWBA),BobtoldPaul,“Tonightwearegoingtohavesomeof

the best barbecue in the PacificNorthwest.” That got Paul’s attention.“Where?”heasked,asdidBob’swife,Sandra.“Gordy’sSteakandBBQSmokehouse in North Bend,Washington,” Bob replied. They call it “aclassybarbecuejointwithgreatsteaks.”Gordy’swassetontheedgeofthe fifth hole of the Cascade Golf Course, and it was indeed a classybarbecuejoint.WhenGordy’sleasethereexpired,Gordonandhiswife,

Kathy, chose tomoveandchange thename toGordon’son theGreen,locatedadjacenttoanothergolfcourse,theFosterGolfLinksmunicipalgolfcourse.LikeTed’sinMinneapolis(page124),Gordon’sontheGreenserves golfers and other hungry customers with cuisine worthy of anineteenthhole,althoughthephysicalsettingsareverydifferent.

In the starters chapter of this book you’ll find a fantastic appetizerrecipe from the old Gordy’s Steak & BBQ Smokehouse, Volcanic GoatCheese (page16).Here’sanunusualmaindish fromthenewGordon’sontheGreen.ThepigwingsarepackagedhamshanksfromFarmland,trimmeddowntoasinglebonewithmeatandfat.Gordon’sservespigwings three ways—in a classic Hunter Sauce with mashed potatoes,glazed in a spicy bourbon barbecue sauce, or as Jamaican Jerk HogWings.Gordysays,“Theonethatworksthebestisthejerkweuseasanappetizerinboththebarandtherestaurant.”

JAMAICANJERKHOGWINGSServes4asastarteror2asanentrée

MARINADE

cupfreshlimejuice

¼cupdarkrum

3tablespoonsfirmlypackeddarkbrownsugar

1 bunch scallions, both white and green parts, roughly

chopped

4clovesgarlic,chopped

1 habanero or Scotch bonnet chile, stemmed, seeded, and

minced,or2chilesifyouwantithotter

1tablespoongroundginger

1tablespoongroundallspice

¼teaspoonpumpkinpiespice

4porkshanks

Put all themarinade ingredients in a foodprocessor andpulse to

makeaslightlychunkysauce.Rubthejerkpastealloverthepork

shanks,cover,andrefrigeratefor2to24hours.

Tomakethefreshfruitsalsa,combineallofthesalsaingredientsin

amediumbowlandmixwell.Coverandrefrigeratefor45minutes

to1hourbeforeserving.

FRESHFRUITSALSA

1cupdicedwatermelon

1cupdicedorange

1cupdicedpineapple

3tablespoonschoppedcilantroleaves,ormoretotaste

¼cupdicedredonion

¼cupdicedredpepper

¼cuplightrum,ormoretotaste

2tablespoonslimejuice

3tablespoonsvegetableoil

¼cupdarkrum

Toprepare thewings, you can sautéoruse thebroiler.To sauté,

heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet over high heat until very

hot.Placetheshanksintheoil,alwaysatasafedistancetoavoid

burns.Cookfor4minutesoneachside,oruntiltheshanksliftfrom

thepanwithoutstickingandhavereachedaninternaltemperature

of150°Fonan instant-readthermometer,3 to5minutes.Deglaze

thepanbyaddingthedarkrumtothepanandstirringit inwith

thedrippings.Pourthesauceovertheshanksandserve.

To broil, place on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper or

aluminum foil and broil until well browned on all sides, 3 to 5

minutes.Drizzlewithalittlerumandserve.

Old-FashionedSouthernPitBarbecue

TheDixiePig701N.SixthSt.Blytheville,AR72315970-763-4636

There’smore thanoneDixiePig around the country, but this isthebestandhasnotiestoanyoftheothers.Backin1923,whenthey started serving their genuine Old-Fashioned Southern Pit

Sandwich in Blytheville, they were a big hit. For many years, peoplevisited theDixiePig toenjoy theirbarbecue,and theDixiePigbuilt areputationthatspreadfarandwide.Todayit’srunbyBuddy“Pops,”andWandaandBobHalsell,andtheyarestillveryproudofthatreputationandcontinuetoservethesamequalitysandwichthatmadetheDixiePigsowellknown,oraswewouldargue,famous.Theirslogan:“Whenyoufeel piggish, come to the Dixie Pig for the best of old southern-stylebarbecue.”

They cook pork butts on an old-fashioned southern barbecue pit,which isusuallyaconcreteblockand/orbrickpit,30 incheshighandanywherefrom6feetto10ormorefeetlong,withalid.It’sfueledwithcharcoalandcooksusingthedirectmethod.Buddysaidthattheydon’tuseanyseasoningontheirporkbutt, they justcookandturnthemforanywherefrom8to12hours,dependingonthesizeofthebutts.

Since we were pacing ourselves when we visited the Dixie Pig (weplanned to visit six other places)wehad a small pig sandwich, cut inhalf. Itwas choppedporkbutt, toppedwith a slawwithDixiePighotsauce on it. Paul can say without a doubt that that was some of thefinestchoppedporkhehaseverput intohisconsiderably largemouth.Theslawwaslightlysaltedwithvinegaronit,andthehotsaucehadaslightsweetbite thatcomplementedthemeat. Ifyou’reanywherenearBlythevilleandfeelingpiggish,don’tforgettheDixiePig.

This is a simple-looking recipe that might be a little challenging toexecute, since itusesboth thedirectand indirectmethods (page199).You’ll need a charcoal fire that is at least 30 inches from the cookinggrate,andyou’llneedalid,soapitisideal.

OLD-FASHIONEDSOUTHERNPITBARBECUEServes24to30

2(6-to8-pound)porkbutts

Hamburgerbuns,forserving

Coleslaw,forserving

Hotsauce,forserving

Prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire 30 inches from the grates.

Placethebutts,fatsideuponthegrill,cover,andcookfor1hour

and turn.Repeat everyhouruntil the internal temperatureof the

meat reaches 180°F on a meat thermometer, 10 to 12 hours.

Removethemeatfromthepit.Removethebonefromthemeatand

placethebuttonacuttingboard.UseoneortwoFrenchknivesor

cleavers to chop the pork into small pieces. Place somemeat on

halfahamburgerbun,topwithcoleslawandhotsauce,andserve.

BREADINTHE’CUE.S.A.

When we talk about “barbecue bread” or “Bunnybread” and you wonder, “What’s that?!” here’s the

answer. A long-standing tradition in American

barbecuejointsistoservecheapwhitemass-produced

breadwiththebarbecue.Itservestwopurposes.Itis

cheaper thanwholewheatormultigrainbreads, and

thespongytexturesoaksupexcessfatandsauce.

InsomeTexasbarbecuejointsyoucantell thelocals

from the tourists by their bread of choice. Locals

choose the unleavened saltine crackers instead of

bread. They’re cheap, but they don’t soak up the

juicesandsaucelikebread.Southernjointswillserve

you corn bread and/or hushpuppies, but your

sandwichwillbeoncheapwhitebread.

Garlic bread is a good accompaniment to barbecue.

Here’sagoodgarliccheesespreadrecipe:

GARLICCHEESESPREAD2cupsgratedPecorinoRomano

2cupsmayonnaise

2tablespoonschoppedparsley

2headsroastedgarlic

2½tablespoonslemonjuice

Pinchofcayennepepper

Y

Dashofhotredpeppersauce

Combineallingredientsandblendwell.Thespreadisalsogoodonbakedpotatoes.

BBQPigSalad

ShortSugar’sDrive-In1328S.ScalesSt.Reidsville,NC26992336-342-7487http://shortsugarsbar-b-q.com

ou expect good foodwhen you step inside a place as busy asShort Sugar’s. People from all over have stories to tell abouteating at Short Sugar’s from their childhood, teen, and adult

years.OurbarbecuebuddiesDavidBaileyandCarlRothrock,whogrewupinthisarea,hadsharedsomanyfondmemoriesofShortSugar’sthatwehadtotryit.Wewereluckyandgotaboothrightaway.

Theplaceisanolddrive-in.Ononeendiscounterservice;boothsandtable service are on the other end. Busy staffers, diners visiting andhavingagoodtime,andthefamiliarchop-chop-chopiswhatyou’llhear.Wegotsoconditionedtothatsoundthatourmouthswateredeverytimeweheard it, and of coursewe ordered a choppedpork sandwichwithhushpuppiesandslaw.Everybitewasdelicious!

WenoticedthatShortSugar’s,likemanyotherbarbecuejoints,hasabarbecuepigsaladonthemenu.B.B.PerrinsinDecatur,Alabama,callsitsbarbecueporksalad“PigintheGarden.”Wehaven’ttriedeitheroneyet, but in the interest of providing a public service to diet-consciousreaders,here’saBBQPigSaladthat’seasytomakeathome.

BBQPIGSALADServes2

1(10-ounce)bagprewashedsaladgreensofyourchoice

2cupspulledorchoppedbarbecuedporkshoulder(page191)

Saladdressingofyourchoice,homemadeorstore-bought

Put half the greens on each plate. Top with meat. Serve with

dressingsontheside.

S

BarbecuedBaloney

Mac’sBarbeque1030W.RogersBlvd.Skiatook,OK74070918-396-4165

ome folks call barbecued baloney “Okie Steak.” We’ve enjoyedsome excellent barbecued baloney at Ozzies Bar & Grill onMonkeyIsland,Oklahoma,ontheshoreoftheGrandLakeofthe

Cherokees.AtOzziestheKingKongofHotDogsisperfectlymarriedtohickory smoke and Head Country Bar-B-Q Sauce. Starnes in Paducah,Kentucky(seepage70),alsoservesagreatbarbecuedbaloneysandwich.Matter of fact, hundreds of places in Oklahoma, Texas, Tennessee,KansasCity,andelsewhereservebarbecuedbaloneyworthwritinghomeabout.Ourfavorite,however,isatMac’sinSkiatook.

We met Mike and Debbie McMillan, pitmaster/proprietors of Mac’sBarbeque,onthebarbecuecontesttrailseveralyearsago.Theywonsomanyawardsfortheirbarbecueandsaucethattheydecidedtoopenabarbecuejoint.It’sasmallplace,buttheydoaboomingbusiness,eatinor carry out, and they still manage to do some competing on thebarbecuecontestcircuit.

All of Mac’s barbecue is prize-winning quality—brisket, pork butt,ribs,andchicken.Mac’sall-beefbaloneystandsabovethecrowd.Manyplacesfrythebaloneyslicesaftersmoking;Macprefersitasitcomesoutof the smoker. If you can’tmake it to Skiatook (near Tulsa) soon, trybarbecuingbaloneyathome.Here’showMacdoesit.

BARBECUEDBALONEYServes6to8

1(5-pound)stickall-beefbaloney,cutinhalflengthwise

Preheatyoursmokerto225°to250°F.Placethehalvedbaloneyin

yoursmokerwithnoseasoningandsmokeforabout1to2hours,

oruntiltheoutsideisdarkandcrusty.Slicethebaloneyinto1/4-

inch-thickslicesandserveonabun.

PulledPorkSandwich

StarnesBBQ1008JoeCliftonDr.Paducah,KY42001270-444-9555

If you think you’ll be more likely to get a seat at the counter bywaitingthreehourspastnoon,don’tcountonit.

Thecounter stoolsatStarnesgetwarmassoonas thedoorsopenat11:00A.M.,andmostdaystheystaywarmuntilclosingtime.

Starnes offers a no-frillsmenu: hickory-smokedpulled pork,mutton,baloney.Noribs.However,ifyoumissStarnesbecausetheydon’tserveribs,you’vemissedoneofthebestbarbecuerestaurantsonearth.GotoPaducah and eat at Starnes and we’ll bet you a MoonPie that you’llagree.

Starnesisdefinitelynottheproductofchicfoodmarketingexperts.Itlooks likeatextbookexampleofhownottopackagearestaurant. It issmall.Thepitandsupplyroomsarebiggerthanthediningroom.Itseatsmaybe twenty people on stools that line the U-shaped counter, andthere’sroomfortwoineachofthetwolittleboothsthatcaptheendsofthe U. Thewalls are cinder block, painted green; plate-glass windowsdon’tofferascenicview,excepttheparkontheothersideofJoeCliftonDrive. It hasn’t changed its 1950s diner look since it opened in 1954,and the only idle days it has seen since then are Sundays and a fewholidays. There’s a hodgepodge of MoonPies, sauce, and snack foodsfilling shelves in themiddle of theU, leaving enough space along thecounter for the wait staff to serve your food and beverages. Formicacountertop, linoleum tile floor, and a large framed gallery of pastgenerationsofStarnesproprietorslendatmosphere,butit’sthefoodandthe people that make it work. The wait staff and customers, mostlyregularsandin-the-knowtravelers,giveStarnesafriendlyambiencethatmakesyoufeelwelcomeandgladtobethere.

Sandwichesareservedbetweentwoslicesofwhitebread,toastedonone side. Inside, your order of pulled pork, mutton, ham, or slicedbaloneywillbeslightlyseasonedwithakissofhickorysmoke.Thefirsttimewe ate at Starnes, thewaitress asked ifwewanted our sandwich“hot”or“mild.”Mildwasthreeshakesfromthesaucebottle;hotwassixshakes. The last time we ate there, the saucing was up to us. Anabundance of the delicious hot tomato/vinegar/pepper sauce iswithinreach of all the customers, where they can shake it on as they wish.Ardie takes several bottles home and uses it on a variety of foods inadditiontobarbecue.

StarnesbarbecueisalsosolddowntownneartheriveratDStarnesat108Broadway. It has a separateowner and features somemenu itemsnotservedat theoriginalStarnes, suchassoups,cornmuffins,vinegarslaw,bakedbeans,andcoconutcreampie,butthemeatandsaucecomefromtheoriginalStarnes.Itisalsomoreroomy,withcounterandboothspacetoaccommodatetouristsandDeltaQueenstopovers.

Evenifyou’redeadsetongettingribsatabarbecuejoint,giveStarnesatry.AftereatingaStarnessandwich,wethinkyou’llexclaim,“Noribs?Noproblem!”

PULLEDPORKSANDWICH

W

Serves1

2sliceswhitesandwichbread

1cuphickory-smokedtendermoistpulledporkshoulder(page

191)

StarnesBar-B-QSauceasdesired

Putthebreadonalightlygreasedhotgrillorcast-ironskilletuntil

lightly toastedonone side, less than1minute.Placeone sliceof

bread,toastedsidedown,onaplate.Topthebreadwithmeat.Add

theothersliceofbread,toastedsideup.Pressdownfirmlyonthe

sandwich, then slice in half diagonally. Serve with sauce on the

side.

PiginaPuppy

KingsRestaurant405E.NewBernRd.Kinston,NC28504800-332-6465http://www.kingsbbq.com

ilburKing,Jr.,atruesoutherngentleman,familyman,andCivilWar buff, has a barbecue pedigree that is second tonone.TheKinglegacybeganinthe1850s,whenR.W.King

openedacountrystoreinKinston.ThecountrystoretraditioncontinuedwithR.W.’sson,Richard,whoseson,Frank,openedastorein1936thatbecameKingsRestaurant.

Our favorite swinedining experienceatKings is a cupofBrunswick

stewappetizer,followedwithaPiginaPuppyandcold,sweeticedtea.Therearetimeswhenyouwantwineorbeerwithyourpuppy,andyoucangetthatatKingsaswell.Youcanorderahogheavenlyfeast fromKings, delivered fast and easy via the Carolina Oink Express. Get theworks in a Pig Out Party Pack, or smaller portions of chopped pork,sausage,countryham,centerslicedham,chitlins,collardgreens,black-eyed peas, hushpuppies, delicious Brunswick stew, coleslaw, potatosalad, pecan, apple, chocolate chip, or sweet potato pie, and—mostimportantformakingyourownPiginaPuppy—Kingsownhushpuppymixandthefamoussaucewehavesavoredforyears,King’sDelightBBQSauce. The sauce is classic eastern North Carolina vinegar with somesignatureingredientsthatmakeitstandabovethecrowd.Welikeitoneverythingshortoficecream!Ifyoucan’tmakeittoKings,youcancalltheirtoll-freelineororderonline.

HowdidWilburKing,Jr.,gettheideaforthePiginaPuppy?Hetoldus that one daywhen business was slow in the restaurant (had to bebetween lunch and dinner, as Kings is a popular, busy restaurant), hewasmessingaroundinthekitchen.Hedroppedsomehushpuppymixintheshapeofahotdogbunintothedeep-fryerandfriedituntilcrispandgoldenontheoutside.Whenheremoveditandletitcoolabit,hesliceditinhalf.Someofthemixwasuncookedandsoft,sohescoopeditoutandfilledthecavitywithchoppedpork,sauce,andcoleslaw.ThePiginaPuppywasborn!

Wilburmixes large amounts for the hungry crowd at Kings, and it’shard to put an exact formula on this because the cornmealmix variesdependingonthecorncropandwhatcompanymakesit.Wilburusesawhite corn hushpuppymix from LakesideMills, and you can order itfromOink Express. Thanks toWilbur, inventor of the Pig in a Puppy,

here’sahomeversionrecipe.

PIGINAPUPPYMakes4

HUSHPUPPYBATTER

2cupsself-risingwhitecornmeal

1mediumonion,minced

1teaspoonsalt

1teaspoonfinelygroundblackpepper

1largeegg,beaten

¾cupmilkorbuttermilk

Canola,peanut,orvegetableoil,fordeep-frying

1cupchoppedbarbecuepork(page191)

½cupKing’sDelightBBQSauce

1cupcoleslaw(seerecipesinchapter3)

Tomakethehushpuppybatter,mixthecornmealmix,onion,salt,

andpeppertogetherinalargebowluntilwellcombined.Stirinthe

egg andmilk or buttermilk to form a thick,moist batter. Let the

batterrestfor30to45minutestoallowtheself-risingmixtowork.

Fill your deep-fryer with enough oil for the hushpuppies to float

andheat theoil to350°F (oruseadeeppot andmeasure theoil

temperaturewithadeep-fryingthermometer).Ifyou’drathermake

traditionalhushpuppies,useateaspoonorscooptodropbatterby

teaspoonsintotheoil.Fryuntilthepuppiesturngoldenbrownand

floattothetop,turningthepuppiesoncesothattheybrownevenly

onbothsides.Drainonpapertowels.

Forpigsinapuppy,moldalargepieceofbatterintoaroundball,

laytheballinonepalm,anduseyourotherhandtogentlyflatten

theball intoathinoblongshape(thinkflat football) thesizeofa

hotdogbun.Dampenyour freehandandmove thebatter to the

dampenedhandsoitwillslideoffthedampenedhandintotheoil.

Moveyourhandasclosetotheoilasissafeandletthepuppyslide

offintothehotoil.Cookforabout4minutes,oruntiltheoutsideis

crispandgolden,turningthepuppyonceformoreevenbrowning.

Removefromthefryer,drain,andletcool.

Whenthepuppyiscool,sliceitinhalf.Ifitdidn’tcookcompletely

through,youmaywanttoscoopoutsomeofthedoughypartand

discard it.Fill thepuppywithchoppedpork, sprinklewith sauce,

topwithcoleslaw, sandwich it, and serve. It’sadeliciousplateof

M

“SouthernGoodness”thatyou’llnotsoonforget!

BarbecueHash

Maurice’sGourmetBarbeque1600CharlestonHwy.WestWestColumbia,SC29169800-MAURICE(628-7423)(toorder)

auriceBessinger’s legendaryPiggieParkBarbequeisknownworldwide.TherecipeforhisGourmetBlendBBQSaucewasgiventohimbyhisfather.Mauricealsolearnedcookingand

restaurantmanagementfromhisfather.Accordingtothecompanystory,it tookMaurice55years tobuild thePiggieParkchainand theFlyingPigExpressintothe“largestbarbequeoperationinthecountry.”

The original Piggie Park sports a huge Confederate battle flag on apole in the parking lot. Inside, in addition to great food and friendlyservice,you’llfindreligiousandpoliticalpamphletsandabookwrittenbyMaurice,DefendingMyHeritage.

On the walls you’ll see framed photos of Maurice with famousdignitaries and entertainers. IfMaurice got the same admonition fromhisparentsthatwedid—“Neverdiscusspoliticsorreligionwithfriendsor strangers”—he didn’t heed it. Fortunately our parents didn’t forbideating barbecue where the owner’s views on politics and religion arefreelydispensed!

Whenyousitdowntoenjoyapulledporksandwichoraslabofribswith Carolina Gold BBQ Sauce, your mind won’t be on politics orreligion, just good food.Themustard-based sauce is said tohavebeeninspiredbyareferencetomustardseedinabiblicalpassage.

Adish thePiggiePark is famous forand that’s foundalloverSouthCarolinaisbarbecuehash.Here’sourrecipe.

BARBECUEHASHServes6to8

2poundsbarbecuedporkshoulder(page191)

¼cupwhitevinegar

2tablespoonspackedlightbrownsugar

1tablespoonrubbedsage

2teaspoonsgroundginger1cupdicedonion

8tablespoons(1stick)unsaltedbutter

Saltandblackpepper

Cookedriceforserving

Cubethemeatandplaceitinaheavycast-ironpotoraDutchoven

with enoughwater to cover.Add the vinegar, brown sugar, sage,

and ginger. Simmer over medium-low heat until the meat falls

apart,about1½hours,addingwaterasneeded.Transferthemeat

toanotherpan,addtheoniontothepot,andbringtoagentleboil.

Whenthemeatiscoolenough,removeanddiscardanyconnective

tissue,veins,bonefragments,etc.,andpullthemeatintosmallbits.

Return themeat to the pot and add the butter. Continue stirring

andcookingtocombinethemeatandonion.Seasonwithsaltand

peppertotaste.Serveoverrice.

PitHam

Clark’sOutpostBBQ

C

Clark’sOutpostBBQ101N.Hwy.377Tioga,TX76271800-932-5051or940-437-2414http://www.clarksoutpost.com

lark’sOutpostwasfoundedbyWarrenClarkin1974.It’sknownforgenuineslow-smokedTexasbarbecue.BarbecuehistorianDr.Howard Taylor (above) told us we had to stop at Clark’s

Outpost, and we’re glad he insisted. The main thing that got Paul’sattentionwas the smoked ham—something dear to his heart and thatmost barbecue joints don’t do. He prefers the good old bone-in curedhambutwill takeaPITham (one that ispartially internally trimmed)next.

Clark’shassomeofthebesthamintheuniverse,andit’sreallyeasytodo.Itjusttakesalotofpatience.Here’showClark’sdoesit.

PITHAM

1(12-to14-pound)PITham

Prepareahickory fire inyour smokerandheat it to190°F.Place

theham in the smokerandsmoke it for18hours.Let rest for30

minutes;thensliceandserve.

HashonRicewithCarolinaColeslaw

Melvin’sLegendaryBar-B-Que538FollyRd.Charleston,SC29412

M888-MELVINS(635-8467)or843-762-0511http://www.melvinsbbq.com

elvin Bessinger of Charleston, South Carolina, is the elderbrother of Maurice Bessinger of West Columbia, SouthCarolina (see page 74). Each has attained fame in his own

right for many years of selling millions of pounds of tender porkbarbecue with a mustard-based sauce to a barbecue consumer publicthatkeepscomingback.Wewon’ttakesides.Welikeboth!

TheSouthCarolinaBessingerbarbecuelegacybeganwithMelvinandMaurice’s father, Big Joe Bessinger. Big Joe was born in 1891 inOrangeburg,SouthCarolina.Hislifelongcareerwasinfarming,buthislegacy was the barbecue sauce he invented and the interest in thebarbecue restaurant industry that he inspired in his sons. Big Joeinvented a mustard-based barbecue sauce in 1933. He called it theGoldenSecretRecipeBBQSauce.Melvin,age10atthetime,learnedthesecretrecipe fromBigJoe.BigJoeopenedtheHollyHillCafé in1939and later the Eat at Joe’s café with Melvin when Melvin came homefromWorldWarII.

MelvinBessinger’s impressiverestaurantcareerportfolioincludesnotonly founding Eat at Joe’s with his dad but also founding Piggy ParkDrive-Ins, Bessinger’s BBQ & Burgers, and Melvin’s Legendary Bar-B-Que.Melvin retired to the family farmafter71years in the restaurantbusiness, but his two Melvin’s Bar-B-Que restaurants are still goingstrong, serving barbecued Carolina pork hams, pork ribs, and smokedchicken—all with the famous Golden Secret Recipe BBQ Sauce. Themenualso includesmuch-acclaimedburgers,onion rings,hashon rice,collardgreens,limabeans,friedokra,macandcheese,cornonthecob,bakedbeans,sweetpotatosoufflé,andfries.

If you hanker for a taste of Melvin’s barbecue, you can order ribs,pulledpork,chicken,andavarietyofmustard-basedsaucesonline.Werecommend startingwith the original 1933Golden Secret Recipe BBQSauce before trying the newer varieties. You can barbecue your own

freshhamuntil tender enough to be pulledbyhand and then serve itwithMelvin’s original sauce. Save enough formaking hash on rice, aSouthCarolina tradition.Wedon’t haveMelvin’s secret recipe, butwethink you’ll like our version here, and we threw in a recipe forhomemadeCarolinacoleslawtogowithit.

HASHONRICEServes6

1mediumsweetonion,minced

2tablespoonscanolaoil

4poundsbarbecuedfreshham,choppedBlackpepperandsalt

2cupsmustard-basedbarbecuesauce

4mediumrussetpotatoes,peeledandchopped

2 cups long-grain white rice, cooked according to package

instructions

In a large souppot overmediumheat, sauté the onion in the oil

until soft, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the meat and pepper and salt to

taste;stirthemeatwiththeonionuntilmixed.Sautéfor6minutes.

Add2 cups ofwater and thebarbecue sauce andbring to a boil;

then turn theheat down to lowand simmer for 10minutes.Add

thepotatoesandsimmeruntiltender,15to20minutes.Serveover

hotlong-grainrice.

CAROLINACOLESLAWServes10to12

1largeheadgreencabbage(about3pounds),shredded

3to4celeryribs,diced

1mediumSpanishonion,diced

1smallgreenbellpepper,seededanddiced

3mediumcarrots,grated

2cupswhitecanesugar

½cupwhitevinegar

½cupapplecidervinegar

½cupoliveoil

1teaspoonceleryseeds

1teaspoonkoshersalt

Inalargebowl,combineallofthevegetablesandmixinthesugar.

Setaside.Combinethevinegars,oliveoil,celeryseeds,andsaltina

medium saucepan, bring to a boil, and pour over the cabbage

mixture.Tosstocoatalltheingredients.Coverandchillovernight

beforeserving.

Y

LoadedPork-StuffedPotato

Curtis’sBBQ40OldDepotRd.Putney,VT05346802-387-5474http://www.curtisbbqvt.com

ouhavetoadmireCurtisTuff.Thereheis,abarbecuepitmasterinruralVermont,whereNewEnglandcuisinerunsmorealongthe lines of fresh baked bread from King Arthur Mills, dairy

freshbuttersandcheeses,includingtheworld’sbestgoatcheese,GradeAVermontMapleSyrup, freshmicrobrews fromHarpoon, LongTrail,Magic Hat, Otter Creek, Rock Art, or Trout River, plus fabulous freshseafoodfromthenearbycoastalwatersofMaine.

There is reason to believe, however, that barbecue is indigenous toVermontandotherNewEnglandstates.SomethinkNativeAmericansintheareaengagedinsomeformofbarbecuecookingpriortothearrivaland settlement of Europeans. Be that as it may, Curtis Tuff certainlydeserves credit for his key role in introducing modern-day NewEnglanders to real barbecue over the past four decades.His customersraveabout thequalityofCurtis’s ribs,chicken, sauce, stuffedpotatoes,potatosalad,coleslaw,macaroni,bakedbeans,sweetyams,cornonthecob,cornmuffins,andhomemaderootbeer.

ChristineTuff,co-ownerofCurtis’sBBQ,andCurtis’swife,alsoplaysakeyroleinthesuccessoftherestaurant.CurtisandChristine’sdaughter,Sarah, and son-in-law, Chris Parker, run a second Curtis’s BBQ inChester, Vermont. They learned the cooking techniques, recipes, andbusinessfromCurtisandChristine.ForamasterlyonlineintroductiontoCurtisandhiscuisine,gotoourbarbecuebuddyMarkDolan’sBarbecuePilgrimWebsiteandclickontheCurtisstories:www.bbqpilgrim.com.

Chris Parker told us the story of how Christine Tuff invented theirpopularstuffedpotatoes:“AccordingtoChristine,itstartedasawaytouseupthemeatthatfellofftheribbonesandwasnotusableformuchelse.Soshetrieditasasnackandthoughtthatshehadstruckgold,andsome20yearslaterwecan’tmakethesefastenoughtokeepupwiththedemand.”

LOADEDPORK-STUFFEDPOTATOMakes1potato

1(9-ounce)IdahobakingpotatoPatofbutter(optional)

6ounceschoppedbarbecuedpork(page191)

3ouncesVermontcheddarcheese

2tablespoonssourcream

1tablespoonbaconbits

¼cupslicedmushrooms,ormoretotaste

Curtis’ownaward-winningSouthernStyleBar-B-QSauce (we

liketheSpicy)

1tablespoondriedchives

Using hardwood, such as hardmaple or oak, preheat the grill to

250°F.Grillthepotatoforabout1houroverindirectheat,oruntil

itissoftwhenyousqueezeit.Removethepotatofromthegrill,cut

thepotatoopen,andaddthepatofbutter.Fillthepotatowiththe

F

chopped pork, then top with the cheese, sour cream, bacon bits,

mushrooms, barbecue sauce to taste, and chives.Grab a fork and

maybeafriend,becauseyoumayneedhelpeatingallofthis!

Bar-B-QSpaghetti

TheBar-B-QShop1782MadisonAve.Memphis,TN38104877-DSAUCES(372-8237)or901-272-1277http://www.dancingpigs.com

rom theatmosphere to the friendly service and theoutstandingfood, theBar-B-QShop isaplace thatmakesyou feelgood.Nowonderit’saMemphisfavorite!Darkredwalls,lotsofwood,and

subdued but sufficient lighting give the place awarm, inviting feel. Ifyou’refacedwithawait,andyou’restarving,seeifthereisaplaceforyouatthebar.Thelasttimeweweretherethat’sexactlywhatwedid,anditwasourhonortobeservedbyMrs.HazelteenVernonherself—a

kind,strong,beautiful,anddignifiedlady.Competence,friendliness,anddedication to serving customers with care must run in the family,becauseFrankandEricVernonarethesameway.

Once you’ve dined at the Bar-B-Q Shop, you’ll be back. Graze yourway through the menu. Ribs come wet or dry. Try both. The porksandwichesaresomeofthebestwe’veevereaten.Getbarbecuedbeansontheside.You’llorderthosebeansateachvisit!Andyouhavetotrythe Bar-B-Q Spaghetti, aMemphis classic. Although the recipe here isavailable online from the Bar-B-Q Shop, it’s amust-have dish for anybookaboutAmericanbarbecue.BobbyFlayalsofeaturedthisrecipeonaFoodNetworkshowonbarbecuespecialties.Sincewe’resopartialtothewaytheVernonfamilycooksandservesthisdish,here’stherecipe.

BAR-B-QSPAGHETTIServes6to8

1cupchoppedonion

¾cupchoppedgreenbellpepper

1pintDancingPigsOriginalBar-B-QSauce

1cupsugar

2tablespoonsLiquidSmoke

½cupcookingoil

Pinchofsalt

1poundspaghetti,preparedaccording topackagedirections,

rinsed,anddrained

Choppedbarbecuedporkshoulder,forserving(page191)

Inalargeskillet,combinetheonion,greenpepper,barbecuesauce,

sugar, liquid smoke, oil, and salt. Cook for 30 minutes, stirring

occasionally.Pourthesauceoverthecookedspaghettiandstir.Top

withporkshoulderandservehot.

WHEREARETHEBARBECUEPOLICE?

KansasCityartistandcartoonistCharliePodrebarachascreatedmanyclassic“Cowtown”cartoonswitha

barbecue theme.One of our favorites is titled “Most

Cowtowners Travel Well. Others. …” Pictured is a

backyard cook, dressed in chef gear, standing at a

grill.Therearetwohotdogsonthegrillandonehot

dogskeweredonagrill fork.Thechef isholdingthe

skewered dog upward. He says, “Who wants some

Bar-B-Q?” The “other” Cowtowner, dressed in red

with“K.C.”onhischestandarighteousscowlonhis

face, is pointing at the hot dog. He says, “If I want

‘Barbecue,’ I’ll go to Kansas City and order some.

That,sir,isagrilledwiener!”

Some people hold to strict differences between

barbecuing and grilling. Barbecue is slow and low.

Grillingishotandfast.Weacceptandunderstandthe

difference, but backyard cooking is as American as

applepie.IfsomeAmericanswanttocallabackyard

hot dog party or a hamburger or steak party a

barbecue—gas grill or charcoal grill—we’re OK with

that.Theaccepted termhasevolved fromcookout to

barbecue.

TheU.S.government,ontheotherhand,hasdefined

barbecueinawaythatleavesnoroomforgrillersor

cookingwithgas.

Here’sthegovernmentdefinition:

Barbecuedmeats,suchasproductlabeled“BeefBarbecue”or

“BarbecuedPork,”shallbecookedbythedirectactionofdryheat

resultingfromtheburningofhardwoodorthehotcoalstherefromfora

sufficientperiodtoassumetheusualcharacteristicsofabarbecued

article,whichincludetheformationofabrowncrustonthesurfaceand

therenderingofsurfacefat.Theproductmaybebastedwithasauce

duringthecookingprocess.Theweightofbarbecuedmeatshallnot

exceed70percentoftheweightofthefreshuncookedmeat.*

Itisourunderstandingthatfederalregulationsare,

ineffect,laws.Ifthisisso,thefederalgovernmentis

notenforcingthelawasitappliestobarbecue.There

arerestaurants,forexample,thatlabelanyitemwith

barbecuesauceonit“barbecue”:pizza,burgers,oven-

bakedribsorbeeforchicken,slatheredwithbarbecue

sauceand soldasbarbecue.Whereare theBarbecue

Police?Wehaveyet to seeorhearof any.Wehope

we never read a newspaper headline that reads like

this:“Localmanarrested inbackyardbyFBI.Grilled

burgersandcalledthem‘barbecue.’”

SmokedGarlicSausage

Meyer’sElginSmokehouse188Hwy.290Elgin,TX78621800-MRS-OINK(677-6465)or512-281-3331http://www.cuetopiatexas.com

Meyer’s isbilledas“TheCapitalof ’CueTopia,Texas,”which,accordingtoR.G.Meyer,is“theperfectstateofbarbecue.”A strong case can be made for naming the Elgin/Lockhart

area a barbecue capital. Althoughwe have our favorites, you can’t gowrong in your search for great barbecue in this legendary section ofTexasHillCountry.

Our good barbecue buddy John Raven told us that for a Texascommercial product today he likesMeyer’s sausage out of Elgin. JohnkeepssomeMeyer’shotsauceinhiscupboard,too,justwaitingfortherightmoment.

Wedidn’teventry togetanoriginal sausagerecipe fromMeyer’soranyothersausagekingsinElgin.Althoughtherecipewe’resharingwithyoumakesdarnedgood sausage, the easiestway toget a tasteof trueTexas smokehouse sausage is to go toElgin in personor online.Makesureyouallowenoughtimetopreparethecasingsthenightbefore.

SMOKEDGARLICSAUSAGEServes12to24

4yardshogcasings

Applecidervinegar

4poundsporkbuttwithfat

2poundsbonelessbeefchuckorroundwithfat

1largeonion,minced

6clovesgarlic,minced

2tablespoonsmincedfreshsage

1tablespoonsalt

1tablespoonblackpepper

2tablespoonscrushedredpepper

1teaspooncayenne

Vegetableoil

The day before you plan to stuff the sausage, rinse the sausage

casingsinsideandoutundercoldwater.Prepareasolutionof1cup

waterto1capfulofcidervinegar.Soakthecasingsinthesolution

overnight.

In ameat grinder, coarsely grind themeats and place in a large

bowl.Thoroughlymixintheonion,garlic,sage,salt,blackpepper,

red pepper flakes, and cayenne. Refrigerate overnight. Stuff the

casingsto1inchthickand5inches longandtieoff.Theycanbe

refrigeratedfor3daysorfrozenfor6monthsatthispoint.

Prepareasmokerwithoakormesquiteandpreheatto225°F.Rub

the sausages with just a little vegetable oil. Don’t overdo it or

they’llgetmessyandthenturntomush.Smokethesausagesfor2

hours,oruntiltheskinlooksreadytopop.

BeefPB(PolishBoy)Deluxe

Mt.PleasantBBQ

OMt.PleasantBBQ12825KinsmanCleveland,OH44120216-561-8722

ur friend and barbecue buddy Jeff Sanders of Des Plaines,Illinois, told us aboutMt. Pleasant BBQ. Jeff is the inventorand CEO of Roadhouse Bar-B-Que Sauces, Inc., and every

saucehemakes is on our faves list.He foundMt. PleasantBBQwhilepromotinghissaucesonefinedayinCleveland.

Beforewe foundout aboutMt. PleasantBBQ,we thoughtClevelandwasmostlyarock-and-rollribburnertown—homeoftheRockandRollHallofFameandMuseumandsiteoftheannualMemorialDayweekendGreat American Rib Cook-Off & Music Festival. Thanks to WayneWhitmore and “BuddyRoadhouse,” Jeff’s handle on the Roadfood.comforum,we’veadded“greatbarbecue”towhatwethinkaboutCleveland.

Jeff,knowingthatwe’reregularsatArthurBryant’s,toldusthat“Mt.PleasantBBQisaclassicintermsoflocationandambience.”Hewentonto say, “The interior makes Arthur Bryant’s look like a four-starrestaurantinParis!”That’sjustthekindofenvironmentwelike!Yougoto Mt. Pleasant BBQ for the food—barbecued ribs, pulled porksandwiches,fresh-cutskin-onfries,macandcheese,collardgreens,andbarbecue beans. If you’re not hungry for barbecue (imagine that!),Waynealsohasfriedfishandfriedchickenonthemenu.Butweagreewith Jeff that what brings down the house is Mt. Pleasant’s Beef PB(Polish Boy) Deluxe! As Jeff says, it’s “an unholy mess that is purepleasuretoeat!”Weputtogetherahomeversion,butthebestplacetogetaMt.PleasantBBQPBDeluxeistobuyonefromproprietorWayneWhitmore.

BBQPB(POLISHBOY)DELUXEServes1

½cupbarbecuesauce

1clovepressedgarlic

1(6-ounce)beefkielbasa

1standardhotdogbun

1cupbarbecuedpulledporkbutt(page57)

1cupcreamycoleslaw(page139)

1handfulfresh-cutfries(page126)

Combine the barbecue sauce and pressed garlic. Cover and

refrigerateovernight.

Lightly oil your grill rack and prepare a charcoal grill for direct-

heat cooking over medium-hot coals. Grill the kielbasa, turning

once,untilsizzlingandgrillmarksappear,about4minutes.Ona

dinnerplate,putthekielbasainthebun;addpulledpork;topwith

coleslawandthenfries.Sprinklesauceontotaste.Enjoythemessy

feast!

SmokedHotLinks

BarbaraAnn’sBar-B-Que&Motel7617S.CottageGroveAve.Chicago,IL60619773-651-5300

Wecouldn’tstopourselvesfromhummingthetuneto“ThirdRateRomance (LowRentRendezvous)”whenwe saw this’cue joint/motel combo. It’s not exactly the kind of place

whereyouexpecttofindgoodeats,butthefoodatBarbaraAnn’sBar-B-Que&Moteldoesn’tdisappoint.WhilethejointisknownespeciallyforitsChicagosmokedlinkswithregular/hotmixedsauce,theribtips,ribs,andchickenarecustomer favorites, too.BarbaraAnndoesn’teatpork,so she added turkey links to the menu for herself and like-mindedcustomersand thosewhowanta change fromchicken. Jumbo shrimp,catfish,andfriesarealsoonthemenu.Thisisacarryoutonlyjoint,sothinkaheadaboutwhereyou’lleatyourlinksfeastfromBarbaraAnn’s.

When Delars Bracy decided to open a barbecue joint and motel onChicago’s South Side in 1967, henamed it after his daughter, BarbaraAnnBracy.DelarssettledinChicagobywayofRuleville,Mississippi,hishometown, and Los Angeles, his college town. He started a family inChicagoafterdiscoveringthatBertie,hishometownsweetheart,wasalsoinChicago. The barbecue joint andmotel came later, afterDelars hadfinishedasuccessfulcareerasacriminaldefenseattorney.SomeofhisbrotherswholivedinChicagohelpedDelarsrunthecarryoutjointintheearly years. Now Barbara Ann is in charge, and—other than addingturkeylinksandchickentothemenu—sherunsitjustthewayherdadandunclesranit.

Due to flecks of sage in the seasoning, Barbara Ann’s links arecomparedtobreakfastsausage.Welikethemanytimeofdayornight,especially with a mix of her regular and hot sauce. If you’re usingsausage casings, make sure you allow enough time to soak themovernightbeforestuffingthem.

SMOKEDHOTLINKSServes6

9feetsausagecasings(optional)

Applecidervinegar(optional)

5poundsporkbutt,coarselygroundtwiceormediumonce

2tablespoonsgranulatedgarlic

1to2tablespoonsrubbedsage

1tablespoondriedparsley

1tablespoonseasalt

2teaspoonsfennelseeds,cracked

1teaspoondriedoreganoleaves

1teaspoondriedthymeleaves

1teaspoonblackpepper

½to1teaspooncayenne

1cupicewater,ifneeded

Barbecuesauce

Hotsauce(suchasLouisianaHotSauceorTexasPete)

Ifyou’reusingsausagecasings,thedaybeforeyouplantostuffthe

sausage,rinsethecasingsundercoldwaterinsideandout.Prepare

a solution of 1 cup water to 1 capful of cider vinegar. Soak the

casingsinthesolutionovernight.

In a large bowl,mix the porkwith the garlic, sage, parsley, salt,

fennel,oregano,thyme,pepper,andcayenne.Stir.Ifusingcasings,

mixintheicewaterifthemeatmixtureistoodrytostuffintothe

casings.

Stuff the sausage mixture into the casings or make into loaves,

sticks,orpatties. Ifyou’remakingsticks, links,or logs, ithelpsto

use plastic wrap to form the meat into the desired shape. Hang

stuffed casings for at least an hour in a cool, dry place and then

refrigerate at least overnight but for nomore than 5 days before

using.Sticks,links,orlogscanbecookedimmediately.

Youcanfry,smoke,orgrillthesausageasdesired.

BarbecuedWholeHog

ThePit328W.DavieSt.Raleigh,NC27601919-890-4500http://www.thepit-raleigh.com

Wehaven’tvisitedEdMitchell’snewplaceinRaleighyet,butwe’ve eaten his hickory-smoked barbecued whole hog onseveraloccasions,andithasalwaysbeensomeofthefinest

hogwe’veever tasted.PaulandEdbecame instantbuddieswhen theyfirstmetattheBigAppleBarbecueBlockPartyinNewYorkCityseveralyearsago.WhenEdbroughthisrollingpittoOxford,Mississippi,forabarbecuesymposiumsponsoredbytheSouthernFoodwaysAlliance,hiswholehogswerepickedtothebone.Wedidourshareofthepicking.

AtthePit,EdhasteamedupwithChefJaimyWaters,whoisknownfor creative dishesmade from fresh, local ingredients. Ed himself is aleadingadvocateoffree-rangehogsraisedwithoutgrowthhormonesandantibiotics. He has spent the past several years making arrangementswith North Carolina pig farmers to raise heritage breeds for a steadysupplyofqualityhogsforNorthCarolinabarbecue.

EdMitchell’sbarbecuepitsare74incheslongandabout6feetwideand are made with fire brick on the inside, decorative brick on theoutside.Hismobilepitsarealittlesmaller,at66incheslong,60incheswide,and26inchestall.

WhenweheardthatthePitisawhite-tableclothrestaurant,itgaveuspause. Does Ed still wear his signature overalls, we wondered, or atuxedo?Nosurprisetous,Edwouldnevergiveuphisoveralls.

OurfriendJohnT.Edge,executivedirectoroftheSouthernFoodwaysAlliance, has paid a visit to the Pit. His favorite dish is the choppedwholehog accentedwithEd’s vinegar andpepper sauce.He also likes

theBrunswickstewandtheBrusselssprouthalvesblackenedinaskilletandtossedwithasmallportionofpreparedmustard.We’veheardthatthefriedchicken,preparedfromEd’smother’srecipe,rivalsoneofourotherfavorites,Gus’sinMason,Tennessee.

Besides John T’s kudos for the Pit, we asked our friends at Ford’sFoodsinRaleigh,Sandi,Patrick,andLynnFord,tocheckoutthePitforusandtakesomepictures.TheyravedaboutEd’swholehogandallthesides.We’re sure they were too polite to sneak in some of their ownclassicBoneSuckin’Sauce(oneofourfavoritebarbecuesauces),butitmusthavebeen tempting.Therewereno complaints aboutEd’s sauce,however.

WhatwillhappentotheformerrestaurantinWilsonwhereEdgainedhisfame?LeaveittoEdtomakesureit’sputtogooduse.He’sfoundingacookingschoolthere,dedicatedtoteachingandpreservingtheartandscience of cooking hickory-smoked whole hogs and other southerndelicacies.Ourhatsareofftoyou,Ed.Waytogo!

Here’swhat Ed sharedwith us about the properway to barbecue awhole hog. You can get a dressed and butterflied or split hog from abutcherorhogsupplier.

BARBECUEDWHOLEHOGServes90to100

1(150-pound)dressedhog,butterfliedorsplit

O

Saltandblackpepper

1gallonEd’sPepperVinegarSauce

Open the pit and take out the grate. Bank about 40 pounds of

charcoalaroundtheinsidewallsofthepitinabigcircle.Pourtwo

largechimneysofhotcoalsaroundtheoutsideofthecharcoalring.

Preheatthepittoabout250°F.

Trimanyexcessfatfromtheinsideofthehogandseasontheinside

alloverwithsaltandpepper.Putthegratebackoverthecharcoal

and top with the hog, close the lid, and cook overnight. With a

meat thermometer,check the temperatureof thehog in thehams

andshoulders.Thetemperatureshouldbeatleast165°F,butmost

prefer185°to195°F.Servewiththesauce.

RibGumbo

B.B.PerrinsBarbecuea.k.a.SportsGrill601HollySt.NortheastDecatur,AL35601256-355-1045

ur longtime friend and barbecue buddy, Ron Harwell,introducedustoB.B.PerrinsBarbecue.RonlivesinDecatur,andRonknowsbarbecue.AnactivememberoftheKansasCity

Barbeque Society for many years, Ron is a master certified barbecuejudge(CBJ)andCBJinstructor.Hehasbeenaroundthepitmanytimes,for sure. Thanks to Ron’s being a regular B. B. Perrins customer andfriendofproprietorBennyPerrin,wehavethefamousRibGumborecipeforyou.

Ronsays,“B.B.PerrinsshouldreallybecalledtheB.B.PerrinFamilySports Grill, because during any given meal you choose to dine withBennyandwifeCourtney,therearesuretobefamiliesenjoyingvariousentréesonthemenu.”Localscallita“sportsgrill”mainlybecauseBennywas a two-sport All-American in high school. After graduating fromDecatur High School, Benny played on the legendary Paul “Bear”Bryant’s last two National Championship football teams in 1978 and1979. “Of course, Alabama added another National Championship in1992,butwho’scounting?”saysRon,ahard-coreAlabamafan.In1981Benny was the Senior Player of the Year at Alabama and was theChevrolet Defensive Player of the Game in Coach Bryant’s record-breaking win number 315. During that game Benny had twointerceptions.HealsoplayedintheSeniorBowlthatyear.

When his impressive four-year stint in the National Football LeaguewiththeSaintLouisCardinalsended,BennyopenedB.B.PerrinsSportsGrill in1988.More than20years later it is still pleasingpalates fromnearandfar.OnJuly4,2008,itcelebratedits20thanniversary.Yes,thedecorissports-themed,specificallycollegefootball,withapredominateAlabamaRollTidemotif.Butdon’texpecttheusualgamenoshcuisinehere.Themenu is all southernbarbecue.Thepork ribsand tenderloinareservedwith“thesecretsauce,”whichisasweettomato-basedrecipehanded down through several generations of the Perrin family. And

beingfromthispartofthecountry,nochickenplatewouldbecompletewithoutasignaturewhitesauce.Oh,yeah:ondifferentvisits,youmaywant to sample the Pat’s slaw, the jailhouse slaw, or any of severaladditionalappetizers.Complementingthemenuisthelocalfavorite,RibGumbo, and Benny was gracious enough to share his award-winninglegendaryrecipewithhisfriends—enjoy!

AWARD-WINNING LEGENDARY B. B. PERRINS RIBGUMBOServes10to12

2cupsdehydratedonion

6quartscoldwater

4cupsdicedonion

8cupsdicedgreenbellpepper

8cupsdicedcelery

½cupchoppedorjarredfreshgarlic

½cupCajunseasoning

10bayleaves

1(16-ounce)jarbeefbasepaste

1#10(6-pound,6-ounce)cantomatoes(drained)

1bagfrozenokra

3cupscornstarch

1quartcoldwater

2poundsbonelesssmokedribmeat,straightoutofthesmoker

Cookedrice,forserving

I

Placethedehydratedonioninasmallbowl,coverwithhotwater,

and let hydrate for about 15 minutes. In a large slow cooker,

combine the rehydrated onion, 6 quarts cold water, the onion,

greenpepper,celery,garlic,Cajunseasoning,bayleaves,andbeef

base paste. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook for

about20minutes.Addthetomatoesandokra,bringtoaboil,and

cookforanother20minutes.

Inabowl,mixthecornstarchwith1quartcoldwateruntilsmooth.

Slowly add themixture to the gumbo and cook until the gumbo

thickens.Thenaddthemeatandstirtocombine.Serveoverabed

ofriceandenjoy.

Chili

IronWorksBBQ100RedRiverSt.Austin,TX78701800-669-3602or512-478-4855http://www.ironworksbbq.com

ron Works BBQ is right downtown on the Red River. With treesgrowing in the middle of the dining room, its ambience isoutstanding,asisthebarbecue.It’sauniquepieceofTexashistory

Austinites are proud to call their own. Originally an ornamentalironworks shop (hence the name) owned and operated by the Weiglfamily,thislittletinbuildingwasconvertedintotheIronWorksBBQin1978. Shortly after the restaurant’s opening, the state historicalcommission registered the property as a historical site, honoring the

Weiglsandtheirlegacy.TheIronWorksBBQhasbeenafamilyownedand operated business serving real Texas barbecue in a countryatmosphereeversince.Manycelebritieshavewalkedthroughthedoors,includingKevinCostner,LeonardoDiCaprio,BobDylan,andJayLeno,butmost important are themanyAustinites andhungry travelerswhoenjoythegoodbarbecueandatmosphereeveryday.

WesatdownandsampledourwaythroughtheIronWorksmenuandenjoyedbeefribs,sausage,brisket,chili,andbeans.WeaskedCharlotteFinch if she would share a recipe with us, but we had never metCharlotte, and she didn’t know us fromAdam. Charlotte said she getsrequestsallthetimeforrecipesandjustcan’tgivethemoutbecauseit’stheirbusinessandtheyareveryproudoftheirfoodandrecipes.SoweaskedifshewouldgiveustheingredientsinIronWorksChili,withouttheamounts,andshe said that shewouldand ifanybodywanted theycould order the Iron Works BBQ Chili Seasoning. If you like chili,ordering the seasoning from Iron Works is well worth the smallinvestment.

Now that we have fixed Iron Works BBQ Chili at home using itsseasoning,wedon’tthinkthatCharlottecouldgiveusanaccuraterecipeforthechiliwithoutdivulgingthecontentsoftheIronWorksseasoning,too.Soifyoudon’tordertheseasoningfromIronWorks,tryoneofourversionshere.

CHILIServes6to8

3poundscoarselygroundchilimeatofyourchoice

1 medium yellow onion, chopped, plus chopped onion, for

garnish(optional)

2mediumjalapeñopeppers,seededandminced

1(14½-ounce)canstewedtomatoes

6 tablespoons ironWorks BBQ Chili Seasoning or one of the

versionsthatfollow

Gratedcheese(cheddarorJackisgood),forgarnish(optional)

Lightlybrownthechilimeatinalargesaucepanovermediumheat.

Drain any excess grease. Add the onion, jalapeño, and tomatoes

(save the can). Add the chili seasoning and 2 cans of water and

simmer,covered,for1hour.Serveasisortopwithgratedcheese

andchoppedonions.

PAUL’SCHILIPOWDERMakesabout1cup

½cupanchochilepowder

¼cuppaprika

1tablespoongroundcumin

2teaspoonsdriedoreganoleaves

2teaspoonsonionpowder

1teaspoongarlicpowder

1teaspoonsalt

In a storage container with a tight-fitting lid, combine all the

ingredientsandmixwell.Youcanstorethemixturetightlysealed

inacool,dryplaceforupto6months.

PAUL’SCHILIPOWDERIIMakesabout½cup

2tablespoonsanchochilepowder

5teaspoonspaprika

4teaspoonsgroundcumin

1tablespoononionpowder

2teaspoonsdriedoregano1teaspoongarlicpowder

W

In a storage container with a tight-fitting lid, combine all the

ingredientsandmixwell.Youcanstorethemixturetightlysealed

inacool,dryplaceforupto6months.

TamalesandBeans

McClard’sBar-B-Q505AlbertPikeHotSprings,AR71901866-622-5273or501-623-9665http://www.mcclards.com

henyoustopatMcClard’sforbarbecue,you’rewalkingintomore than 75 years of barbecue history. In 1928, theWestside Tourist Court became Westside Bar-B-Q with

cabrito,babygoat,asitsstarmenuattraction.In1942,McClard’smovedinto its current location—awhitewashed stucco building—and becameMcClard’sBar-B-Q.

If you get a chance, go to McClard’s Web site and read about itshistory.ThestoryofhowMcClard’slegendarybarbecuesaucecameintotherestaurant’spossession is likesomethingyouseeorhearofonly inthe movies. The story goes like this: a customer was staying at theWestsidefortwomonthsandcouldn’taffordtopaythe$10heowed;heasked them if they would accept instead a recipe for “the world’sgreatest barbeque sauce.” They tried the traveler’s sauce, and noweverybodyknowsabouttheworld-famousMcClard’sBar-B-QSauce.

Fourth-generation McClards now run the kitchen, with someoutstanding numbers. Each week they serve 7,000 pounds ofmouthwatering hickory-smoked beef, pork, and ribs, along with 250gallons of spicy barbecue beans, 250 gallons of coleslaw, 3,000 hand-

rolledhot tamales,and3,000poundsof fresh-cutpotatoes french-friedto perfection. The number that intrigues us most is the handmadetamales—that’smorethan400aday!

TamalesareaboutasbasicallyMexicanasyoucanget,buttheyturnupatbarbecuejointsintheMississippiDelta,Memphis,andHotSprings.McClard’s tamales are what we call upscale barbecue, and they are apleasant change at a barbecue restaurant. Making them isn’t rocketscience,butitisabitofafiddle,andittakessomepracticetolearnhowtowrap them.Youmayput just aboutanygood-tasting filling inyourtamalesthatyouwant,butMcClard’sfillingoffinelygroundbarbecuedmeatisdifferent.

Westronglysuggestthatyoumakeyourfillingsononedayandthendothewrappingandfillingthenext.Tamalesrequirealotofhandwork,but thesebarbecue tamalesareworth it!Here isourversion thanks tosometipsfromownerScottMcClard.

TAMALESANDBEANSMakes20to24tamales

CHILIBEANS

1pounddriedpintobeans

1½cupschoppedonion

4clovesgarlic,minced

1to2tablespoonschilipowder

1(6-ounce)cantomatopaste

Pinchofblackpepper

TAMALEDOUGH

4cupswhitemasaharina

3cupswarmbeeforchickenstock

2cupslard

FILLING

2½poundsbarbecuedbrisket(page38),chopped

2½poundsbarbecuedporkbutt(page191),choppedorpulled

¼cupbarbecueseasoningofyourchoice

1to2cupsbarbecuesauceofyourchoice

To prepare the chili beans, wash and rinse the beans well, pick

over,anddrain.Placeinalargekettleandcoverwithwater.Bring

toaboiloverhighheat.Removefromtheeatandsetaside for1

hour.Drainthewaterandaddfreshwatertocoverthebeans.Add

the onion, garlic, chili powder, tomato paste, and pepper to the

beans.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheatandsimmer,

covered,untilthebeansaretender,45minutesto1hour.Tasteand

adjusttheseasonings,addingsaltifnecessary.

Tomakethetamaledough,putthemasaharinainalargebowland

reconstitute by addingwarmed stock. Beatwith awooden spoon

until the dough is thick but smooth. Add a little more stock if

necessary,butbesuretokeepthemixturefirm.

In another large bowl, beat the lard with a mixer fitted with a

paddle until it is very fluffy, 3 to 4minutes. Continue to beat at

medium speed and add the masa a little at a time until well

combined.Thetextureshouldremainlightandfluffy.Toseeifthe

mixtureismixedwell,dropateaspoonofthedoughintoaglassof

water. If it floats, it’s ready. Ifnot,beat it somemore.Coverand

allowtorestforatleast30minutesbeforeusing.

While the masa is resting, prepare the filling. In a large bowl,

combine the beef, pork, and barbecue seasoning and blend well.

Place the mixture in a food processor and process to an almost

smoothpaste,addingbarbecuesauceasneeded.Youcanalsousea

meat grinder to grind it to an almost fine paste. Cover and

refrigerateuntilreadytouse.

McClard’stamalesarehand-rolled,biggerthanmostothertamales

—5½to6incheslong.Spreadabout¼cupofmasadoughovera

sheet of parchment paper (6 to 8 inches long) and place 3 to 4

ounces of the filling in the center of the masa. Roll the paper

lengthwisetosealinthebarbecuemixtureandtietogetheroneach

endwithbutcher’stwine.Repeatwiththeremainingmasa.

Fill a large potwithwater and bring to a boil, then reduce to a

simmer.Dropthetamalesinandboilfor30to45minutes.

P

Toserve,takethetamalesoutoftheparchmentpaperandtopwith

chilibeans.

SmokedGlazedFreshPorkHam

Danny’sPlace902S.CanalSt.Carlsbad,NM88220505-885-8739http://www.dannysbbq.com

aulhasknownDannyandCarolynGauldenforabouttenyears.Their new digs are a far cry from their original barbecue. OnAugust 1, 1975, Danny and Carolyn opened a Dairy

Queen/Barbecue.Itwastheonlyoneinthewholeworld.ItwasalsoathorninthesideoftheDQpeople.ItwaslegalsinceDannyhadoneoftheoriginalfranchisecontractswithDQ,anditwaspermitted,butwordstarted to spread about this Dairy Queen that sold fantastic barbecue.Thatwas thestartofa lotofproblems.Therewas toomuchpublicity,andotherfranchiseeswantedtodothesamebutcouldn’t.TheBarbecueMaverickwastheoneandonly.

TherewasalotofpressureontheGauldenstostopservingbarbecue,and it went on until February 2004. Push came to shove, and thedecision was made to stop serving a $1.50 sundae and start serving$5.00 hand-cut barbecued brisket sandwiches. They shut down andremodeled and have never looked back. And now the world aroundCarlsbad,NewMexico,hasanewbarbecuejoint:Danny’sPlace!

Here’showDannysmokesafreshham.Hisglazeisgreatforribsandham.ServeitwithsomeofDanny’spotatosalad(seepage134).

SMOKEDGLAZEDFRESHPORKHAM

Removetherindor theskin(this lets thesmokepenetratemore),

butleavethefatintact.Putabasicrubonit.Ifyoudon’thaveone

handy, some salt, pepper, and a little garlic will work just fine.

Cooklowandslowat225°-250°Fandkeepthesmokegoingfairly

often.Barbecueuntiltheinternaltemperatureofthemeatreaches

160°-175°F.Thehighertheinternaltemperature,thedriertheham

willbe.Remember,thisisn’tasleanasaporkloin,butnotasfatas

aBostonbutt.It’sinthemiddle.Thisprocessmakesitmoretender

ifyoubringitupeasy.About30minutesbeforeit’sdone,bastea

coupleof timeswith the rib glazehereor your favorite barbecue

sauce.

DANNY’SRIBANDPORKFINISHINGGLAZE

¾cuppackedlightbrownsugar

¼to cupyellowmustard

¼to cupapplecidervinegar

Mixalltheingredientsinasmallsaucepanandbringtoasimmer.

Let cool until you’re ready to baste the ribs or pork. The glaze

shouldbeatleastthickenoughtocoataspoon.Iftheglazeistoo

thick,addmorevinegarorsomebeer.Applytotheribsorroastthe

verysecondtheycomeoffthepitorgrill.Orputonacoatofthe

glazeabout2minutesbefore removing the ribsor roastand then

anotherassoonastheyareoffthepitorgrill.

S

BarbecuedMuttonRibs

SouthsideMarket&Barbeque1212Hwy.290Elgin,TX786211-877-487-8015or512-285-3407www.southsidemarket.com

outhsideMarket inElgin,whichwasnamedtheSausageCapitalofTexasin1995,wasamust-stopforPaulwhilemakinghiswaythroughthehillcountryofTexas.Alittlemorethan1.5million

poundsofhotsausageismadeannuallyinElgin(pronounced“El-gun”).Elgin sausage isalsoknownby itsmoreaffectionatenames,TexasHotGutandElginHotGuts.

Fresh beef and pork seasoned with secret herbs and spices makeSouthside Market’s sausage unique. Produced since 1882, the original“hot” was toned down in the 1970s to appeal to a broader base ofconsumers. Forget about getting the original recipe for SouthsideMarket’sTexasHotGut.It’satradesecret,oratleastacorporatesecret.

When Paul got in line to order a link ofHotGut and some brisket,something else caught his eye: mutton. So he ordered a mutton rib.ManyCentralTexasbarbecuejointsservebarbecuedmutton,aswellasgoat, a.k.a. cabrito. It is usually cut into fist-size pieces called “chuckbarbecue.”

Here is Paul’s version of the mutton ribs he enjoyed for lunch atSouthsideMarket.

BARBECUEDMUTTONRIBSServes6to8

¼cupkoshersalt

¼cupcoarsegroundblackpepper

¼cuppaprika

2tablespoonschilipowder

2tablespoonsgroundcumin

2tablespoonsgranulatedgarlic

1tablespooncayenne

2muttonbreast(ribs),trimmed

Preheatyour smoker to375°F.Combine the salt,pepper,paprika,

chilipowder,cumin,garlic,andcayenneandblendwell.

Sprinklethemuttonbreastalloverwiththerubandrubitin.Place

on your smoker and cook indirectly for 4 to 5 hours until done,

turningevery1½hours.Theribsaredonewhenyoucantaketwo

side-by-sideribsandtearthemaparteasily.

JIM CROW: BLACK, WHITE, ANDBBQThomas “Daddy” Rice, a white minstrel performerwho blackened his facewith burnt cork or charcoal

paste, did a “Jump Jim Crow” dance routine in his

show. The “Jump Jim Crow” dance caught on with

other minstrels. By the mid-nineteenth century Jim

Crow was routine minstrel fare. Jim Crow became

synonymous with racial discrimination, and race

discrimination laws came to be known as Jim Crow

laws.

Jim Crow has a historywith barbecue joints.We’ve

heardunconfirmedstoriesabouta“JimCrowWall”in

some barbecue joints. Whites, we were told, were

seatedon thepit side forwarmth inwintertimeand

onthecoolersideoppositethehotpitinsummertime.

WeaskedourfriendJohnRaven,PhB,Commissioner

of Barbecue, for his recollections of Jim Crow in

Texas. He told us: “All I can report are my

observationsfromaroundcentralTexasfromthemid-

1940s.Allpublicfacilitiesweresegregated.Theterms

used to designate were white and colored. Mexicans

sortoffell inbetweeninagrayarea.Insomeplaces

theycouldusethewhitefacilities;insomeplacesthey

could not. Mexicans and colored seldom were put

together.

“The first barbecue joint I remember isNovisad’s on

South Main in Taylor. This was ‘across the tracks.’

GrandmaandGrandpaVeselka(Czech)ranthejoint.

YouwouldseealotofMexicansinthere,butIdonot

recall seeing a colored in there. The storied Taylor

Café was segregated by the bar that ran down the

centerofthebigroom.Coloredononesideofthebar,

whiteon theother. I thinkMexicanswere seatedon

thewhiteside.

“Therewereestablishmentswellintothe1960swhere

neithercolorednorMexicanwereserved.Theywent

to the back door and sometimes were served in the

kitchen if they came in the company of whites.

Otherwisetheywereservedatthebackdoor,andno

seatingwasprovided.”

You’ll hear similar stories about Jim Crow and

barbecue in Oklahoma, Missouri, Arkansas,

Tennessee, Mississippi, Georgia, Alabama, and other

states. Most recollections are word of mouth. When

JimCrowwasthenorminKansasCity,legendhasit

that after performing a gig in a white club, Count

Basie would pull a late-night jam session in the

“TwentyBlocksofBlack”EastSideneighborhoodhe

hadtostayinduetosegregation.Afterlosingonetoo

manyslabsofribswhilehewasfocusedonmusic,the

Countgotwise.Hemadesureeveryonesawhimspit

onhisslab.Afterthat,hedidn’tloseanymoreslabs.

LambRibs

JackStackBarbecue

T

JackStackBarbecue13441HolmesRd.KansasCity,MO64145816-942-9141http://www.jackstackkc.com

heFiorella familyhashadamajorpresence in theKansasCitybarbecue scene formore thanhalf a century.Russ Fiorella gotthe family tradition going when he opened the Smoke Stack

Barbecuerestaurant in1957.TheoriginalbuildingonProspectAvenuestandsvacantandweatherworntoday,sportingrealtorsignsinsteadofaworkingsmokestackandsignsadvertisingslabspecials.Russ’sfirstson,Jack, opened today’s famous Jack Stack inMartin City with his wife,Delores, in 1974. Their success with an expanded menu of hickory-grilled steaksand seafood inaddition toa completemenuofbarbecuemeatsledtotheopeningofthreemorerestaurantsinKansasCity,eachwithapopularfollowingoflocalfansandtourists.Theyalsorunabusyonline sales business, shipping barbecue and Jack Stack sauces andseasoningsnationwide.

Welikeallfourlocations,butourfavorite,perhapsoutofnostalgia,istheHolmesRoadstore. It isabigwoodenstructure reminiscentof theProspectAvenueoriginal. InsidethedecorcouldbedescribedasOzarkVictorian. Some walls are like weathered barn lumber. Others arecovered with fancy wallpaper of Victorian design. Framed vintagephotos,farmimplements,andothermemorabiliaadornthewalls.Itfeelswarmandwelcomeandputsyouinagoodmoodforfeastingandfun.

JackStackisoneofthefewbarbecuerestaurantsinKansasCitythatoffers lamb ribs.With Jack’smethodof cooking them there’snogamyflavor.Besuretotrythemonyournextvisit.

The nice thing about lamb ribs is that they can be barbecued orgrilled.HereisourrenditionofJack’slambribs.YoucanordersomeofJack’sbarbecuerubtobemoreauthentic.

LAMBRIBSServes4

4slabsDenverlambribs(6to7boneseach),trimmed

1tablespoononionsalt

1tablespoongarlicsalt

1tablespoondriedparsley

2teaspoonsherbesdeProvence1teaspoonblackpepper

1teaspoonkoshersalt

Oliveoil

To prep the ribs, trim any excess fat and remove the membrane

from the back of the ribs. Combine the onion salt, garlic salt,

parsley,herbesdeProvence,pepper,andsaltandblendwell.Rub

theribswitholiveoilandseasonallover.Placeonaplate,cover,

andletrestfor30to60minutestoanhour.

Togrilltheribs,cookovermediumcoals(seepage206)for45to

60minutes,turningevery10to15minutesandtakingcarenotto

burnthem.Tobarbecuetheribs,cookwithindirectheatfor1½to

2hours,turningevery45minutes.ServewithJackStacksauceor

yourfavoritebarbecuesauceontheside.

BarbecuedRackofLamb

DaisyMay’sBBQUSA623W.46thSt.at11thAve.NewYork,NY10036212-977-1500http://www.daisymaysbbq.com

ChefAdamPerryLangprobablyhasthebestpedigreeofanychefwehaverunacrossinallofbarbecue.Hehasprovenhimselfinsomeofthegreatestfinediningrestaurantsintheworldandis

nowcreatingsomeofAmerica’sbestbarbecueatDaisyMay’sBBQUSA.Ifyoucan’tmakeitdowntotherestaurant,andyou’reoutandaboutinNewYorkCity,tryoneofthemobilebarbecuecartslocatedaroundthecity.

TheselectionsatDaisyMay’sarequiteextensive.TheyincludeTexaschoppedbrisket andCarolina pulled pork sandwiches, chicken and ribcombinations, and a thorough selection of soulful side dishes. DaisyMay’s BBQ is a deliciously different way to entertain. The barbecuedrackoflambisaperfectexampleofthatdifference.

BARBECUEDRACKOFLAMBServes6

MARINADE

2tablespoonsWorcestershiresauce

½cupchoppedsweetonion

10clovesgarlic,chopped

1tablespoonfreshthymeleaves(about10sprigs)

1tablespoonfreshrosemaryleaves(about10sprigs)

1tablespoonanchochilepowder

1tablespoonblackpepper

1tablespoonhotredpepperflakes

LAMB

2(8-bone)racksAmericanlamb

SPICEBLEND

½cupsmokedpaprika

2tablespoonschilipowder

2tablespoonsgarlicsalt

1tablespoonlemonpepper

GLAZE

¼cuphoney

½cupbarbecuesauceofyourchoice

1clovegarlic,grated

½jalapeñopepper,grated

Salt

To make the marinade, puree the Worcestershire sauce, onion,

garlic, thyme, rosemary, ancho chile powder, pepper, hot red

pepperflakes,and¼cupwaterinablender.Setasideuntilready

touse.

Trimoffasmuchfatfromthelambaspossible,leavingthefatand

meat in between the rib bones intact. Place the lamb racks in a

resealableplastic bag large enough tohold themandpour in the

marinade.Sealthebagandshakeitaroundalittletocoatthelamb

withthemarinade.Refrigerate3to4hours,orovernight.

Preheatabarbecueto275°F,usingoakwood.Removetheracksof

lambfromtherefrigeratorandwipeoffmostofthemarinadewith

papertowels;it’sOKtoleavesomeon.

D

Inasmallbowl,combinethespiceblendingredientsandsprinkleit

allovertheracksuntilthemeatisthoroughlycoated.

Placetheseasonedlambracksbonesidedowninthebarbecueand

cookoverindirectheatuntilthemeatregisters125°Fonaninstant-

read thermometer, about 1 hour 15 minutes. While the lamb is

cooking,combinetheglazeingredients.Removethemeatandcoat

with the glaze. Return the lamb to the barbecue and continue to

cookfor20minutes.Remove,wrapinplastic,andallowtorestfor

about5minutes.Cut into individual chops and seasoneach chop

individuallywithsalt.

ButterfliedLegofLambwithCaramelizedOnionBBQSauce

DinosaurBarBQue246W.WillowSt.Syracuse,NY13202888-476-1662ext.211or315-476-4937orhttp://www.dinosaurbarbque.com

inosaur Barbecue is a genuine honky-tonk rib joint, and inPaul’s humble opinion it is “the Rock ‘n’ Roll Biker Bar andBarbecueoftheMillennium.”ThereareDinosaurrestaurantsin

Syracuse,Rochester,andNewYorkCity,respectively.TheoriginalisinSyracuse. All three are popular and busy. You’ll knowwhy from yourfirstvisit—andyou’llbeback!

JohnStage,pitmaster-founder,withtwobikerfriends,DinoandMike,

startedtheDinosaurtraditionin1983withacut-in-half55-gallon-drumpitinSyracuse.Theygottheideawhilefullof“rotgutgrubandbeer.”Itstill felt like a good idea the next day. They were traveling to bikerevents anyway. They fancied themselves good cooks. Why not sellbarbecueandmakesomemoneyontheroad?Theytooktheirbarbecueon the road for the next five years, showing up at East Coast fairs,festivals, and motorcycle shows. By 1988 John’s reputation for greatbarbecuewasestablishedandhewastiredofsellingitontheroad,soheopened a takeout joint in downtown Syracuse. By 1990 he had a sit-downrestaurantwithwaitressesandafull-servicebarandthousandsoffans.Themomentumroarsonlikeafull-throttlehogonahighway.

Inspiration for thenamecame from two sources:Dino’snameandaHankWilliams,Jr.,songaboutthesadtransitionofhisfavoritehonky-tonk,Dinosaur,toadisco.ThebusinessnamehasevolvedfromDinosaurProductionstoDinosaurConcessionsandfinallytoDinosaurBarBQuein 1985,when John andMike cameupwith the recipe forDinosaur’sfamoussauce.

The early fare was grilled meats with Italian accents—such asbarbecue-saucedDelmonicosandwiches.Then,thankstoacustomerataHagerstown,Maryland,gig,Johnhadabarbecueepiphany.InsomanywordsthissoutherngentlemanpolitelytoldJohnthefoodwasgood,butitwasn’tbarbecue.HetoldJohnaboutthebarbecuemethodofcookingasdonedownSouth.Johntookthemanseriously,andthenhetooktothe road on a barbecue pilgrimage to Virginia, North Carolina,Tennessee,andMississippi.He saw,heaskedquestions,he tooknotes,andheate.Laststop:Memphis.BythenJohnwashard-corepassionateaboutrealbarbecueandbringingithometoNewYork.Thankyou,Mr.SouthernGentleman,whateveryourrealnameis.

Today’sDinosaur restaurants offer a full line of barbecuemeats andother great eats—with outstanding beverage choices as well. Theirstarters, called “Palate Igniters,” include catfish or spicy shrimp boil,chickenwings,friedgreentomatoes,anddeviledeggs,somewithseveralsizeandflavoroptions.Pulledpork,spareribs,brisket,andchickenarethe featuredbarbecuemeats.Grilled steaksandchicken,plus specialty

sandwiches such as pulled pork with mushrooms or melted cheese,Cuban-style seasonings, a tasty variety of burgers,with sides of beans,fresh-cutfries,salads,macandcheese,chili,mashedpotatoesandgravy—all thatandmoreroundoutDinosaur’sbarbecopiaofamenu.Allofthatgreat food,plusbandssuchasNaughtyLil’PigShow,SilentFury,DarkHollow,GreezyWheelsw/Penny Jo, Legendary JonesGang, andTurnipStampedegivesubstanceandmeaningtowhyPaulcallsDinosaur“therock‘n’rollbikerbarandbarbecueofthemillennium.”

Paul has been a Dinosaur diner several times in Syracuse and NewYorkCity,oncewhenhewaspreannouncedandtreatedlikeroyalty,andother times unannounced, to get the food that everyone else gets. Asexpected, he got the same great barbecue on each visit. He hasconcludedthatDinosaurbarbecueisreallyasgoodasJohnhasalwaystoldhim.AndeveryonegetstheroyaltreatmentatDinosaur.

PaulhasaskedJohnforhisribrecipeandcookingprocedureseveraltimes, andheagreed togiveboth “tomorrow.”Tomorrowhasn’t comeyet,butJohndidsharethisfantasticlegoflambrecipefromthefunandfabulousDinosaurBarBQue—AnAmericanRoadhouse (2001)cookbookJohnwrotewithNancyRadke.

BUTTERFLIED LEG OF LAMB WITH CARAMELIZEDONIONBBQSAUCEServes6to8

MARINADE

1cupplainyogurt

Gratedzestof1lemon

½cupfreshlemonjuice

1tablespoonoliveoil

4scallions,bothwhiteandgreenparts,sliced

6clovesgarlic,chopped

¼cupchoppedfreshmintleaves

2tablespoonsdriedthyme

2tablespoonsblackpepper

1tablespoongroundcumin

1tablespoonkoshersalt

LAMB

1legoflamb,bonedbyabutcher(4to5poundsboneless)

Saltandblackpepper

SAUCE

2tablespoonsbutter

1largeonion,thinlycutintohalf-moonslices

Pincheachofkoshersaltandblackpepper

Pinchofsugar

1cupchickenbrothorstock

1tablespoonDijonmustard

1cupDinosaurBBQSensuousSlatheringSauce

1teaspoongroundcumin

3tablespoonschoppedfreshmint

Whirl all the marinade ingredients together in a food processor.

Prick the lamb all over with a fork and nestle it in a large

nonreactivebowl.Spoonthemarinadeontothemeatandslatherit

around until themeat is well coated. Cover andmarinate in the

fridgefor6to8hoursorovernight.

Prepareahotcoalbedandmoundthecoalsononesideofthegrill.

Preheatitto325°-350°F.Whenyou’rereadytocook,scrapeoffall

themarinadeandpatthemeatdry.Seasonthelambwithsaltand

pepper. Lay the lamb, boned side down, directly over the coals.

Searitfor4minutes.Flipitoverandseartheothersidefor3to4

minutes.Slidethemeatawayfromthecoalstocookitwithindirect

heat. Cover the grill, check to make sure the heat is 325°-350°F

inside, and roast for 50 to 60 minutes, or until the internal

temperature of the meat reaches 145°-150°F on an instant-read

thermometer.Removethemeatfromthegrillandletitrestfor15

minutesbeforecarving.

Startthesaucecookingwhilethemeatroasts.Dropthebutterinto

asaucepanandmeltoverlowheat.Addtheonion,seasonwithsalt

andpepper,andaddapinchofsugar.Cookslowly,stirringevery

nowand then, until deeply caramelized, 5 to 7minutes.Add the

broth,mustard,barbecuesauce,cumin,andanymeat juices.Fold

in themint at the end. Keepwarm over low heat until ready to

serve.

Carvethelambacrossthegrain(watchforgrainchanges)into¼-

inch slices. Retain all the juices from slicing, then stir them into

yoursauce.Topthelambwiththesauceandserve.

BARBECUERITUALS

Thebarbecuecontest circuit iskneedeep in rituals.Rare is the team that doesn’t perform some kind of

rite before sending an entry to the judges. Squeal of

Approvaldoesa—youguessedit—squealritual.

Theeleveno’clockshotritualhasbeentravelingthe

barbecue competition circuit since the late 1980s.

Ritualsvarybyteam,buttheoneconstantisashotof

Jack Daniel’s whiskey, most often Gentleman Jack.

It’sagood-luckshotmeanttoincreaseateam’sodds

of being invited to the Jack Daniel’s World

Championship Invitational Barbecue (a.k.a. “The

Jack”). World Champion barbecue cook Scotty

Johnson of Cancer Sucks invented the Clonesicle for

his friends Darren and Sherri Warth of the Smokin’

Clones.TheClonesicleisashotofice-coldGentleman

Jack from a bottle that has been put in a bucket of

water and frozen overnight. Any teams at contests

wheretheSmokin’Clonesarecompetingarewelcome

toaskforaClonesicle.Darrentoldustherehavebeen

timeswhenfiftytosixtyteamshavejoinedthemfora

Clonesiclegood-luckshot.OnthoseoccasionsDarren

andSherriluckilyhadplannedaheadtohaveenough

Gentleman Jack for all. Theremust be something to

it,astheSmokin’ClonesarenostrangerstotheJack.

Wewerepresentatthebirthofaritualforbarbecue

judgesthathasbecomepartofthestandardoperating

procedure at barbecue contests sanctioned by the

Kansas City Barbeque Society (KCBS)—the official

judges’ oath. Ardie penned the original oath on a

pieceofbutcherpaperfromArthurBryant’sin1984.

It was for the Diddy-Wa-Diddy National Barbecue

Sauce Contest judges. Later he changed thewording

to apply to barbecue meat judges and donated the

oath to the KCBS. Since then tens of thousands of

judgeshavetakentheoath.Ithasabondingeffect.It

makes each judge feel official. It reinforces the

importance of taking the job seriously while having

fun. The Diddy-Wa-Diddy is now part of the Great

AmericanBarbecueFestival(www.thinkbbq.com).

Chants, cheers, toasts with beers, and many more

ritualsabound.Getinvolved.Inventyourown.

OFFICIALKCBSBARBECUEJUDGES’OATH

byArdieA.Davis,a.k.a.RemusPowers,PhB

Ardie penned this oath in 1984 for the Diddy-Wa-DiddyNationalBarbecueSauceContest.Headaptedit

laterforbarbecuemeatcookingcontestsanddonated

ittotheKansasCityBarbecueSocietyin1989foruse

at sanctioned contests. The oath was also given by

Remus to judges at the Memphis in May World

Championship Barbecue from the late 1980s to the

early 1990s. Thousands of judges from across the

UnitedStatestaketheoatheachyear.

Idosolemnlyswear

Toobjectivelyandsubjectivelyevaluate

EachBarbecueMeat

Thatispresented

Tomyeyes,

mynose,

myhands,

andmypalate.

Iacceptmyduty

Tobea[nameofcontest]*judge,

Sothattruth,

justice,

P

excellenceinbarbecue,

andtheAmericanWayofLife,

Maybestrengthenedandpreservedforever.

You’reonyouroath!

BarbecuedPorkLoinandBuffalo(Bison)BratwurstwithCheeseandJalapeños

Buckingham’sSmokehouseBar-B-Q2002S.CampbellSpringfield,MO65807417-886-9979

aulhasbeengoing toBuckingham’s inColumbia,Missouri, formorethan15years.It’ssogoodheneededtoseejusthowgoodtheoriginaloneinSpringfieldwas.

DavidCampbellstartedBuckingham’sin1996.It’sachain,butnotatypical chain. All of the restaurants are individually owned, notfranchises, so it’shard to tellwhat category theybelong toother thangood.

Paulsampledtheirbarbecuedribsandthenspiedtwothingsthatarenotonmanybarbecuemenus:smokedporkloinandaBuffalobratwurst.BrandonGrame, themanager,kindlyagreedtogiveus therecipesandproceduresforboth.Heeventolduswherehegets thebratwurst:FortBison Ranch, Attn: Sonny & Melainie Shannon, 507 Rock House Rd.,Galena, MO 65656, 417-357-1920. The pork loin is easy to cook andtender. Paul actually made the bratwurst in a barbecue class inStavanger,Norway,butheusedmoosemeat sincebisonmeatwasnotavailable. Ifyou’reusingsausagecasings,makesureyouallowenoughtimetopreparethemthenightbeforeyouplantostuffthem.

BARBECUEDPORKLOINServes25to35

1(8-to12-pound)bonelessporkloin

¼cupmustard(preferablystandardyellowmustard)

½cupBuckingham’sruboryourfavoriterub

Trimtheporkloinasneeded.Usingapastrybrush,lightlycoatthe

undersideoftheloinwithhalfofthemustardandseasonwithhalf

oftherub.Turntheloinoverandrepeattheprocess.Don’tforget

theendsoftheloin.

Preheatasmokerto250°Fusingapplewood.Placetheloininthe

smoker and cook for 1½ to 2 hours, or until the internal

temperature of the meat reaches 140°-145°F on an instant-read

thermometer.Letrestfor15to20minutes;thensliceandserve.

BUFFALO (BISON) BRATWURST WITH CHEESE ANDJALAPEÑOSServes20to24

5to6feethogcasingsorlargesheepcasings(optional)

Applecidervinegar(optional)

3poundsleanbonelessbuffalomeat,chilled

2poundsporkorporkbutt,chilled

½cupcoldmilk

1cupfreshbreadcrumbs

¼cupdicedpickledjalapeñopeppers

2tablespoonsseasonedsalt

1tablespoonrubbedsage

2teaspoonsgroundginger

2teaspoonsdrymustard

1teaspoongroundwhitepepper

1teaspoongroundcoriander

1teaspoongroundmace

1teaspoongroundnutmeg

1cupicewater,orasneeded

½cupdicedsharpcheddarcheese

If you’re going to make sausage links instead of patties, the day

beforeyouplantostuffthesausage,rinsethesausagecasingsunder

coldwater insideandout.Preparea solutionof1cupwater to1

capfulofcidervinegar.Soakthecasings in thesolutionovernight

intherefrigerator.

Grindthemeat twicethroughthesausageplateofameatgrinder

or in a foodprocessor andplace it in the bowl of a standmixer.

J

Combinethemilk,breadcrumbs,andjalapeñosinasmallbowland

set aside. Combine the seasoned salt, sage, ginger, dry mustard,

whitepepper,coriander,mace,andnutmeginasmallbowlandset

aside.

Fit the stand mixer with a dough hook, add the bread crumb

mixturetothemeat,andblendonlowspeedfor2minutes.Slowly

addthedryingredientsandmixonmediumforabout5minutes,or

untilwellblended,addingicewaterasneeded.Addthecheeseand

blend in for1minute. Stuff themixture into the casingsormake

intopattiesandcookasdesired.

PanfriedChickenLivers

JackStackBarbecue13441HolmesRd.KansasCity,MO64145816-942-9141http://www.jackstackkc.com

ackStackgaveusseveralrecipes,includingJackStackLambRibs(page97)andJackStackCheesyPotatoBake(page129).Toourregret,thefabulouspanfriedchickenliversthatwereonceserved

attheoriginalJackStackonHolmesRoadareno longeronthemenu.However, Jack Fiorella and his son-in-law, Case Dorman, were kind

enoughtosharetherecipewithus.Nowyoucanenjoythemathome.

PANFRIEDCHICKENLIVERSServes6

HORSERADiSHSAUCE

¾cupmayonnaise

¼cupdrainedpreparedhorseradish

1tablespoondriedparsley

CHICKENLIVERS

1poundfreshchickenlivers

1cupall-purposeflour

3tablespoonscornmeal

2tablespoonscornstarch

2tablespoonsLawry’sSeasonedSalt

1tablespoonbakingpowder

1½teaspoonsdriedparsley

2teaspoonsonionpowder

1teaspoonblackpepper,ortotaste

1quartwholemilk

Vegetableoil,forfrying

To make the horseradish sauce, combine the mayonnaise,

horseradish,andparsleyinasmallbowlandmixthoroughly.Cover

andrefrigerateuntilneeded.

T

Cleanandrinsetheliversandpatdry.Inalargebowl,thoroughly

mix ½ cup of the flour with the cornmeal, cornstarch, seasoned

salt, baking powder, parsley, onion powder, and pepper. Add the

milk to this mixture and mix with a wire whisk until well

combined.

Heat¼inchofvegetableoil inalargeskilletuntilsizzling,about

325°F.Thoroughlycoattheliversintheremaining½cupflourand

shake off the excess. Dredge the floured livers in the batter and

place half of them in the oil, one at a time, being careful not to

crowdthem.Cooktheliversfor5to7minutes,untilgoldenbrown,

turningoncehalfwaythrough.Removetheliversfromtheoiland

drain them on paper towels. Repeat with any remaining livers,

addingmoreoilasneeded.ServewithHorseradishSauce.

BarbecueTurkeyBreast

Buckingham’sSmokehouseBar-B-Q3804ButtonwoodDr.Columbia,MO65201573-449-7782

hisBuckingham’sishalfwaybetweenKansasCityandSt.Louis,Missouri, and a must stop when driving on I-70. The originalColumbiaBuckingham’sopenedin1998andwasanolddrive-in

restaurant. The new Buckingham’s is out in the suburbs of Columbia,and it’sa littlemoredifficult to find than theoriginal.True,youcan’tjustturnoffofI-70andgoablockandahalfanymore,butit’sworththeextradrive.

The owner, Mark Brown, spent about 24 years as a roadie for thegroupsPinkFloyd,AC/DC,andFleetwoodMac.Whenhedecideditwastime to get off the road, he hooked up with David Campbell ofSpringfield,Missouri,thefounderofBuckingham’sSmokehouseBar-B-Q,wherehehonedhispassionforgreatbarbecue.

OneofPaul’sfavoritethingsotherthanBuckingham’sribsisapulledturkeysandwich.Yes,apulledturkeysandwich:differentbutverygood.Here’sarecipeyoucantryathome.

BARBECUETURKEYBREASTServes20to24

1(9-to12-pound)boneless3-lobeturkeybreastwithskinon

Saltandblackpepper

¼cupBuckingham’sbarbecueseasoningoryourownrub

40to48sliceswhitebread

Slicedpickles,forserving

Slicedonions,forserving

Barbecuesauce,forserving

Season the turkey breast with the salt, pepper, and barbecue

seasoning. Preheat your smoker to 230°F, place the turkey in the

smoker, and cook for about 4 hours, or until the internal

temperature of the turkey reaches 170°F on an instant-read

thermometer when inserted in the center or thickest part of the

turkey.Remove the turkey fromthesmokerand let rest for15 to

30minutes.

Removetheskin fromthe turkeyanddiscard.Put the turkey ina

bakingpanordish largeenoughtohold it.Usingtwoheavy-duty

dinnerforks,shredtheturkeybreast.Serveonwhitebreadorabun

withpicklesandslicedonion,withbarbecuesauceontheside.

BarbecuedBisonRibs

BigPapa’sBBQ12652W.KenCarylAve.Littleton,CO80127720-922-3233

Ihttp://www.bigpapas-bbq.com

n 2003,when Frank Alfonsomoved from his hometown in NorthFloridatoDenver,hedecidedtoventureintothebarbecuebusiness.“Whenyou’reasouthernboy,barbecueisinyourDNA,”hetoldus.

He designed Big Papa’s with good food and fast service in mind butdidn’t compromise on the traditional slowand lowmethodof cookingbarbecue.FrankadaptedwelltohisnewenvironmentbyputtinganitemnotlikelytobeseeninNorthFloridaorAlabamaonthemenu.

AtBigPapa’syouorderyour foodat thecashier counter,pay for it,get seated, and soon your order is brought to the table. Since it isn’teverywhere that you can get barbecued bison ribs, we highlyrecommend you try them at Big Papa’s. We don’t know how theycomparetothebisonribsattheFort,whichourbarbecuebuddyDr.IraSalmoninNewYorkCitytoldusabout,butwe’reprettysurehewouldbejustasenthusiasticaboutBigPapa’sribs.

Here’sthebasictechniqueforbarbecuingbisonribsthatFranksharedwithus.AMemphis-styletomato-based,tangybarbecuefinishingsauceisrecommended.

Thanks to Denverite Adrian Miller, barbecue buddy and SouthernFoodwaysAlliancemember,fortellingusaboutBigPapa’s.ThanksalsotoArdie’sfriendLindaRay,ofLittleton,forthephotosandmenu.

BARBECUEDBISONRIBSServes7

1slabbisonribs(about7ribsperslab)

Dryrubofyourchoice

Barbecuesauceofyourchoice

Sprinkle the ribs lightlywith the rub. Preheat your grill to 225°F

andcook the ribs,using indirectheat, forabout4hours.Remove

the ribs from the pit, slather with sauce, and grill both sides

directlyoverhotcoalsjustlongenoughtocrisptheoutside.Serve

immediately.

SpatchcockChicken

B’sBarbecueHwy.43North—751B’sBarbecueRd.

BGreenville,NC27834http://www.ncbbqsociety.com/trail_pages/bs_bbq_large.html

’sistheonlybarbecuejointweknowofthathasaroadnamedafter it (andoneof the fewwithnophone).Bcomes fromthenicknameofthefounder,William“B”McLawhorn,whoopened

B’s in1978.WeknewB’s reputation for great barbecue, and after ourfriendCarlRothrockgaveithighmarks,weknewforsurewehadtoeatatB’s.CarllivesinGreenvilleandknowsB’swell.

Asweexpected,B’s looks like tworoadside shacks—one for serving,dining, andcarryout andanother for thebarbecuepits.The restaurantshackusedtobeacountrystore,butitworksfineasabarbecuejoint—friendly,withagoodfeeltoit.Ifyoucan’tfindseatinginthespacious,dimlylitinside,therearepicnictablesoutside.Forcustomersontherun—andtherearemany—B’sdoesabriskbusinessatthecarryoutwindow.

B’shas fourbigsteelboxpitswith lids.Eachpithasasidedoor foraddingcoalsthatarefiredupoutsidethepitsinbigcontainers.Twopitsare about 5 by 15 feet. The two smaller ones, used for cooking thechickens,areabout4by8feet.

William’s daughter, Peggy McLawhorn, and her three daughters—TammyGodley,DonnaMcLawhorn,andJudyDrach—runB’stodayanddoafinejobofit.PitmanDexterSherrodcooksthemeatthesamewayit’salwaysbeendoneatB’s.Thatmeanshardwoodcharcoalforheatandsmoke,withhoursof slowand low in thepit.Thatgoes forB’smoist,tender,andflavorfulwholehogandB’sfamouschicken,too.B’ssauceisthe typical eastern North Carolina cider vinegar and peppers with B’sspecial accent. Each dining table sports a CrownRoyalwhiskey bottlethat contains B’s sauce. It’s one of the best ideas for recycling we’veseen.

Asforthesaucerecipe,we’retoldthattheonlywayyoucangetitistomarryintothefamily.WhenCarltoldJudythatshemightexpecttogetaproposal,shesaidthatshe“marriedforlovethefirsttime,butthis

timeitwouldbeformoney.”SinglemillionairesshouldconsidertakingatriptoGreenville.Matteroffact,everyonewholovesbarbecueshouldplanatriptoGreenville.B’sbarbecueisworthit!

Don’t choosebetweenwholehogandchickenatB’s.Haveboth.Butgettherewellbefore2:00P.M.ifyouexpecttoeat.It’sabusyplace,withcars and trucks filling the parking lot and parked along the highway.Carl raved about the chicken, and we see why. Each order is a halfchicken.Thisrecipeisourversion.

SPATCHCOCKCHICKENServes4

EASTCAROLINABASTINGSAUCE

3cupscidervinegar

2tablespoonsblackpepper

2tablespoonsseaorkoshersalt

2tablespoonspackedbrownsugar(optional)

1tablespooncayenne

1largewholefryerchicken

Preheatyourpitorgrillto230°–250°F.Combineallofthebasting

sauceingredientsandwhisktoblend.

Remove the giblets from the bird, along with any fat. Rinse the

chickeninsideandoutwithcoldwater.Patthechickeninsideand

outwithpapertowelstodryit.Putthechickenonacuttingboard,

breast side downwith the tail pointing away from you. Pull the

chickentoanuprightpositiononitsneckend.Withasharpknife,

cutdowntherightorleftsideofthebackbone,throughthethigh

joint, which is just gristle, then go down the backbone, cutting

throughtheribbones.Becarefultokeeptothebackbone,notthe

breastbone.Repeattheprocessontheothersideofthebackbone.

Open the chicken, breast or skin side down, with the breast end

pointingtowardyou.Inthemiddleofthebreastyou’llseethekeel

bone.Somepeoplecallitthebreastbone,butit’sthekeelbone.At

the top of the keel bone, in the center, there is awhite piece of

gristle about the size of a quarter; with your knife, cut straight

downthecenterofthegristle.

Placeyourthumbsoneithersideofthecut,andwithyourfingers

underthekeelboneoryourfingersontheskinsideofthebreast,

pushdownwithyourthumbsandupwithyourfingersandthekeel

bonewill pop up; you can then pull the keel bone and attached

gristleout.Turnthechickenoverandpressonthebreast,flattening

thechickenout.Seasonwithpepperandsalt.Placethechickenon

yourpitorgrillskinsideupandcookindirectlyfor3to4hours,

depending on the size of the chicken, or until the internal

temperature in the thighs are 165°F or higher. Do not turn the

chicken.Baste theopen sideof the chickenwith the sauceat1½

hours,andbastetheskinsideevery30minutesuntildone.

W

SmokedCatfish

StevensonBar-B-Que114S.AshPaul’sValley,OK73075405-238-2040

e knowVelmer Stevenson is serving some great barbecue.OurbarbecuebuddyRussSifers,CEOofValomilkCandies,backyard barbecuer, and official Kansas City Barbeque

Society Certified Barbecue Judge (pictured on page 113), gave us thisreport:StevensonBar-B-QueislocatedinPaul’sValley,Oklahoma,aboutanhoursouthofOklahomaCityjustoffI-35atExit72.InOctober2007itmovedintoaformerBraum’sIceCreambuilding.Thetablessportred-and-white checkered plastic cloths and of course plenty of papernapkins.Velmer Stevenson (pictured above on the left) himselfwas attheorderwindow,andhegreetedeveryoneastheycameinandleft.Heisalargemanwithlargebutgentlehands,likemanyfarmersIknow.Hehasa salt-and-pepperbeard,a smile that is infectious,andbrowneyesthat sparkle with pride over his food. Like most barbecuers, he isfriendly and laid back. Each time I speak with Mr. Stevenson I leavefeelinghappyabouttheworldingeneralandbarbecueinparticular.

Velmer’s parents, Hilbert and Willie Mae Stevenson, began cookingbarbecue at home in the 1950s based on the Louisiana tradition theycamefrom.Latertheystartedsellingbarbecue“togo.”In1990VelmerandhisbrotherstartedservingbarbecueonFridaysandSaturdaysfrom

ahouseintheoldpartofPaul’sValley.Velmer’ssonHerman,whohasmaster’sdegrees inpsychologyandcriminal justice,helpsoutwith thecooking. He finds the slow cooking to be relaxing and peaceful, likefishing.

TheStevensonmenustickswiththebasics.Theyconcentrateondoingthe best withwhat they offer, and it shows. The smoker is a custom-made five-doorcylinderabout the sizeofavanwithanoffset firebox.The doors open with a pulley system, and the entire rig rolls out forhaulingtothecarwasheverytwoweeks.Theyusesplitpecanlogsforheatandhickoryforsmoke.Therearetwowornchairsonadeckbythecooker in the enclosed cooking room. They allowedme to sit on one,andIfeltlikeIwastheMasteroftheSmokeandquitehonored.

Stevenson’s dinner offerings are ribs, brisket, steak, hot and Polishlinks,chicken,andchoppedbeef.Thosemeatsalsocomeinsandwiches.Theyusetheirowndryrubandbasteandturnthemeatbyhand.Themild and hot barbecue sauces come from Willie Mae’s Louisianatradition:botharevinegary,withthehotsaucebeingsincerelyhotandspicy.Their chickendrumsticksaremild in flavorbut lean,moist,andtender.Ihadtworibs,whichmighthavehadalittleextrarub.Onewastender,lean,andmoist,whiletheother,thickerribhadsomefatbutwasflavorful.

The barbecued steak is something different. It’s a big hunk ofmeatalmost2inchesthick,tender,andmoist,withanicesmokeflavor(youcould see the smoke ring) and a gentle use of the rub. Velmer has asaying:“Ifyoucan’tcutitwithaplasticknifeandfork,it’syoursfree.”Herman adds, “It’s tender as a mother’s love.” They’re both right.Stevenson’sbrisketisalsotenderandmoist.Alittlesauce(hot)bringsit

to life. The hot link is standard fare much like you’ll find in BBQcontests,andthechoppedbeefisalittlelikeburntendsbuttender,anditalsocomestolifewithalittlehotsauce(maybeit’stheKansasCityinme!). Imustadmit that thesmokedsteaksohadmyattentionthat theotherofferingsfellbythewayside.

Speakingofsides,thefriesatStevenson’sarefreshcut,wellseasoned,servedhot,andnotgreasyevenat7:30 P.M.Theycryout forbeer,butPaul’s Valley does not allow beer in its restaurants. Stevenson’s offersplentyofcoldlemonadeandfreshbrewedicetea.Ichosethetea,whichiscleanandfull-bodied(IpretendedthatitwasShinerBock).Thebeansare largeandcookedinagraygravysaucesomewhat likeTexasranchbeans,thoughTexasbeanstendtohavearedgravysauceinstead.Thecoleslawishomemade,fresh,crisp,andquitegood.

When I judge barbecue, I look for something special that gets myattention. Stevenson’s bread pudding and banana pudding are bothTexasrecipesmadefromscratchbyVelmer’swife,Laverne.Thebananapuddinghasfreshchunksofbananasandiscreamybutnottoorich.Thebreadpuddingiswarmandsweet.If I livedinPaul’sValleyandateathome, I think I would still go to Stevenson’s just to have Laverne’spuddingsfordessert.

Russ told us, “Velmer Stevenson talked with me about a smokedcatfish recipehehas inmind, and itmademehungryall over again.”This isn’t Velmer’s recipe, Russ, but we don’t think anyone will bedisappointed.

SMOKEDCATFISHServes6

6(13-to15-ounce)head-onwholecatfish

½cupcanolaoil

2cupsdrybarbecuerub

Preheat your smoker to 225°-250°F.Wash the fish inside and out

thoroughlywith coldwater. Pat dry and then lightly oil the fish

withthecanolaoil.Rubthefishinsideandoutwithamediumto

heavyamountoftherub.Placethefishonascreen,cookiesheet,

orsmokerracksprayedwithnonstickcookingspray.Makesureyou

haveamedium-thickamountofsmokeinyourcooker;thenplace

thefishinthesmokerandsmokefor45to75minutes,oruntilthe

fish is opaque and the flesh is just beginning to flake. Watch it

carefully. It is better to cook, test, and then finish cooking rather

thanovercookit.

W

Beer-BatteredCodwithTartarSauce,andMarinatedChicken

SmokyJon’s#1BBQ2310PackersAve.Madison,WI53704608-249-RIBS(7427)http://www.smokyjons.com

henmostpeoplethinkofMadison,Wisconsin,cheeseheads,brats,andbeercometomind.BarbecueaficionadosfamiliarwithMadisonadd“SmokyJon’s.”

Smoky Jon Olson, avid hunter and “Madison’s All-Time BBQ King,”hasbeenservingtendersmokybarbecuetothecitizensofandvisitorstoMadisonformorethan30years.Nowandthenheleavestherestaurantin the capable hands of pitmaster Joel Latham and staff while henetworks with fellow barbecuers at contests and National BarbecueAssociationconferences.That’showwemethim.

WelikeSmokyJonandhisbarbecue,butsincewehaven’ttrieditforawhile,wedecidedtoaskArdie’sfriendsRonandMaryBuchholzandtheirsonGeoftopayavisittoSmokyJon’s“inhognito”andgiveusthiscandidreport.

TheexteriorofSmokyJon’s leavesnodoubtthatyou’relookingatabarbecuejoint.Neonandpaintedsigns,withpigs,ribs,andbarbecueinabunwilldefinitelygetyourattention.Inside,SmokyJon’s“hasarusticNorth Woods look with pine log walls, rough-cut knotty-pine trim,knotty-pine tongue/groove plank ceilings, and deep burgundy brickpaver-type quarry tile floors,” as Ron describes it. Awards, a string ofsmall lightedpigs,banners,aWisconsin“No.1BBQ”vanityplate,andothermemorabiliaaddtothefeelofthejoint.

IsSmokyJongoodenoughtowearthebarbecuekingtitle?Yes!Themarinatedbarbecuedchicken isahouse favoriteandwon’tdisappoint.Theribshavejusttherightkissofsmoke,or“smokyundertone”asRonaptlyputsit,andaretender,juicy,anddelicious.Ifyoulikenakedribs,aswedo,askforsauceonthesideoryourribswillbeservedslatheredwithSmokyJon’ssauce.It’sgoodstuff,mindyou.Wejustliketodecidehowmuch sauce to enjoy with our ribs. The pulled pork sandwich isservedwith sauce on the side. It’s good enough to stand alone, but atouch of Smoky Jon’s sharp, tangy barbecue sauce lends a nicecomplement.

What also catches our attention at Smoky Jon’s is the beer-batteredcod. As longtime beer-batteredMinnesotawalleye pike fans, we knewSmoky Jonwouldmake us equally enthusiastic about his cod, and hedid!Thedinnercomeswithfourpiecesofcod,twosides,andadinnerroll with butter. Put some tartar sauce on the lightly coated seasonedbattered fishcooked to tender flakinessandenjoy.Anyof the sidesgowell with it—creamy coleslaw, spicy barbecue baked beans, spicybutteredcorn,applesauce,fries,andsidesalad.WeagreewithRonthatthebestofallthesides,however,isthebarbecuebakedbeans.

SmokyJon’spriorityistoservegreatbarbecueinawelcomingsettingwith friendly service. He delivers that and throws in a moist, rich,flavorfulChocolate/CherryBundtCakefordessert.Itistheonlydessertonthemenu,butit’sworthsavingroomforafewbites.Orderoneslicewithenoughforksforeveryoneatthetable.OurhatsareofftoSmoky

Jon Olson and pitmaster Joel Latham. We thank them for the tworecipes.

BEER-BATTEREDCODWITHTARTARSAUCEServes6to8

TARTARSAUCE

1cupmayonnaise

1tablespoonDijonmustard

1scallion,bothwhiteandgreenparts,minced

1½teaspoonsfreshlemonjuice

2tablespoonsminceddilledgherkins

1tablespoonminceddrainedcapers

2 tablespoons snipped fresh parsley Pinch each of salt and

blackpepper

COD

Cookingoil,fordeep-frying(about1quart)

1cupall-purposeflour

¼cupcornstarch

½teaspoonsalt

1largeegg,lightlybeaten

1cupbeer,orasneeded

2poundscod,haddock,orhakefillets,cutintoapproximately

1½by3-inchpieces

Combineallthetartarsauceingredientsinasmallbowl.Coverand

refrigerate. Preheat the oven to 200°F. Cover a cookie sheetwith

papertowelsandtopwithawirerack.Inamediumpotoradeep-

fryer, heat about 3 inches of oil to 365° (use a deep-frying

thermometerifyou’reusingapot).

Meanwhile,mixtheflourandcornstarchwiththe½teaspoonsalt.

Whiskintheegg.Slowlyaddthebeerwhilewhiskingjustuntilthe

ingredientsareincorporated.

Dip the fishpieces in thebatter andplaceonaplateor thewire

rack you will be using to drain the fried fish. If you have some

batter left over, youcandip the fish in thebatter againafter the

firstcoatofbatterdriesonthefishawaitingfrying.

Placethefishpieces,twoatatime,intheoil.Cookuntilthefishis

doneand the crust is lightly golden, about4minutes for¾-inch-

thick fillets. Remove the fish with tongs and put on the rack to

drain.Sprinklethesaltoverthehotfishandputthebakingsheetin

the ovenwhile you cook the other batches. Servewith the tartar

sauce.

MARINATEDCHICKENServes24

¾cupWhirlliquidbuttersubstituteordrawnbutter*

3½ ounces Smoky Jon’s Flavor Magic Gourmet All Purpose

Seasoningorrubofyourchoice

24(5-ounce)bonelessskinlesschickenbreasts

Inasmallbowl,combinetheWhirlordrawnbutterandtheFlavor

Magicandblendwell.

Place the chicken breast in a large, deep pan. Pour the Whirl

mixtureoverthechickenbreasts.Evenlycoatthechickenallover

withthepaste.Coverthepanwithplasticwrapandmarinatefor2

hoursorovernightintherefrigerator.

Grill over hot charcoal (page 206) just until done. Makes an

awesomechickensandwichonabunorinacombowithribs.This

recipemakesalot,butitfreezeswell.

*Tomakedrawnbutter,melt2sticksofbutterovermediumheat

inasmallsaucepan.Bring it toa lowboilandboiluntil themilk

solids in the butter separate and sink to the bottom of the pan.

Watch carefully so it doesn’t burn. Spoon off the clarified butter

anduse¾cupintherecipe.

BarbecueShrimp

Gridley’sFineBar-B-Q

T6842StageRd.Bartlett,TN38134901-377-8055

imes have changed since the days when we made a point ofdining atGridley’s on SummerAvenue during theMemphis inMayWorldChampionshipBarbecueCookingContest.Our feast

atGridley’swascappedbyavisittoGracelandtopayourrespectstotheKing. Back then Gridley’s wait staff wore bow ties and gold jackets.Gridley’swassynonymouswithMemphisbarbecue,andtheonlysaucepacked in a clever cardboard briefcase for Memphis tourism andconventionpromotionswasGridley’s,foundedbythelateClydeGridley.We thought that Gridley’s heyday had come and gone, but thanks toJamieandDougWalker,wecannowsaythatGridley’sisaliveandwelland as good as or better than it everwas. Today’sGridley’s is fartherfromGraceland,butthedrivetothenewsmallerGridley’sisworththeadventure.

JamieandDougWalkerboughtGridley’s fromDr.andMrs.WilliamColey,whowerelookingforabuyeratthesametimeJamieandDougwere looking for a business to offset losses in their manufacturingcompany due to competition from China and Mexico. They needed acareer change, and since they areoneof thehardest/smartest-workingbarbecuejointcoupleswe’veevermet,barbecueloversarethebetterforit.

Gridley’s walls are decorated with Memphis and Elvis memorabilia,plus some photos of former Gridley’s restaurants. Service is fast andfriendly.Bowtiesandgoldjacketsjustwouldn’tfitthenewdecor,sowedidn’t miss that relic of bygone days. The barbecue shrimp (not trulybarbecue,aseveryoneknows),ribs,andpulledporksandwichwithslaware everybit as great aswe enjoyed at the formerMemphisGridley’s.Jamie and Doug own and operate another Gridley’s in Conway,Arkansas.CongratulationsandthankstoJamieandDougWalker.SurelytheClydeGridleyfamilywouldbeproudthattheirlegacycontinues!

TogetthetrueGridley’s flavor,youhavetohavetherealsauceandseasonings.Thankgoodnessthat’spossible!CallGridley’stoputinyourorder for sauce (mild or hot),Gridley’sRibRub, andGridley’s ShrimpSeasoning.Whenyoucan’tgotoGridley’sandyouyearnforitsshrimpathome,trytherecipehere.Ifyou’reoutofGridley’sShrimpSeasoning,try Paul’s Cajun BBQ Shrimp, the recipe here, to get you by until thenextshipmentofGridley’sseasoningsarrives.

BARBECUESHRIMP

Serves4

2poundslargeshrimp

¼cupGridley’sShrimpSeasoning

¼cupliquidmargarine

Preheat your oven to 300°F. Put the shrimp in a shallow baking

pan.Sprinkletheseasoningmixontheshrimpandpourtheliquid

margarine on top. Bake for 3 to 5minutes, then turn the shrimp

over and cook for another 3 to 5 minutes. Be careful not to

overcook,ortheshrimpwillberubbery.Serveimmediately,letting

peoplepeeltheirownshrimpatthetable.

CAJUNBARBECUESHRIMPServes4

2poundslargeshrimp

BARBECUESAUCE

½pound(2sticks)butter

¼cupoliveoil

½cupbeer(notdark)

¼cupHeinzchilisauce

3tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice

2tablespoonsWorcestershiresauce2clovesgarlic

2to3bayleaves,finelycrushed

½teaspoondriedthyme

Pinchofcrushedrosemaryorrosemaryleaves

1teaspoondriedoregano

¼teaspoonwhitepepper

½teaspoonblackpepper

1teaspooncayenne

2teaspoonspaprika

2teaspoonshotpeppersauce

Rinse, peel, and devein the shrimp. Combine all the sauce

ingredients inabigpanandsimmergently forabout10minutes.

Cool the sauce to room temperature, then add the washed and

cleanedshrimp.Marinateovernightintherefrigerator.

Cooktheshrimponthestoveoverhighheat,stirringjustuntilall

theshrimpturnpink,3to4minutes.

ServewithchunksofcrustyFrenchbread to soakup the sauce,a

green salad,and lotsofnapkins.Shrimpmustbeeatenwithyour

fingerstogetthewholeexperience.

DSeafoodStuffedLobster

DennyMikeShermanhttp://www.dennymikes.com

ennisMichael“DennyMike”Shermancaughtthebarbecuebugin the 1970s from a Texan named Charlie Ariaga. AlthoughDennyMike has since tasted barbecue in Kansas City and

several southern states, his barbecue of choice is Texas-style. Like aduckling imprints on a mama duck, young DennyMike imprinted onTexasbarbecue.In2002,hestartedDennyMike’sSmokehouseBBQandDeli inOldOrchardBeach,Maine, sohecould sharehis loveofTexas‘cuewithNewEnglanders.Hehassincesoldtherestaurant,andwehopehe makes good on his promise to start a new restaurant somewherealong the eastern seaboard.Meanwhile,he is knee-deep in salesofhisbarbecueproductsonline.

Maine is better known for its rugged coast, lighthouses, and lobsterrolls than for its barbecue. But if DennyMike has hisway,Mainewillalso be known for DennyMike’s Texas-style barbecue. The recipe herefeaturesMaine’sspecialty—lobster—barbecuedtoperfection.ItcallsforapplewoodsmokeinsteadofTexasmesquiteoroak.ThiswillgiveourfriendBillyBonesinRedKeg,Michigan,asmile,sinceappleishiswoodof choice. Here, with thanks to DennyMike and our barbecue buddiesSteveandHopeRowley,isoneofDennyMike’sprizedrecipes.

SEAFOODSTUFFEDLOBSTERServes6to12

6(1-to2-pound)lobsters

SMOKEDSEAFOOD

¾poundbayscallops,withjuices

¾poundMaineshrimp,peeled,deveined,andwashed

1½poundsAlaskankingcrabmeat,withjuices

3 tablespoons DennyMike’s Fintastic seasoning or seafood

seasoningofyourchoice

¾stick(6tablespoons)butter,melted

SMOKEDSTUFFING

¾stick(6tablespoons)butter

6tablespoonsmincedcelery

6tablespoonsmincedyellowonion

1½tablespoonsmincedshallots

3tablespoonssnippedparsley

1½tablespoonsmincedjalapeños

3tablespoonsdrysherry

1½tablespoonsDijonmustard

Juiceof1lemon

3sleevesRitzcrackers,crumbled

3cupsItalianbread,cutinto¼-inchcubes

2 tablespoons DennyMike’s Fintastic seasoning or seafood

seasoningofyourchoice

3largeeggs

1lemon,cutintosixths

1to2tablespoonspaprika,ortotaste

½cupfinelygratedParmesancheese

Fill a steamer pot large enough for all of the lobster claws with

waterandbringit toaboil.Kill thelobsters(instructionsfollow),

remove their claws, and toss the claws into the steamer to cook

until they turn red. Do not overcook. Use tongs to transfer the

clawstoaplatetocoolslightly, thencracktheclawsandremove

theclawmeatinonepiece.

Splitopenthelobstersandremovethebadstuff,savinghalfofthe

tomalley (liver) to add to stuffing. Discard the extra half of the

tomalleyorsaveitforanotherpurpose.(OrbelikePaulandeatit!)

Setupyoursmokertocookat180°F,preferablywithapplewood.

Tomake the smoked seafood, combine the scallops, shrimp, crab

andseafoodjuiceswiththeFintasticseasoningandbutterinalarge

bakingdishorfoilpan.Setaside.

Tomakethestuffing,placethebutter,celery,onion,andshallotin

asaucepanandsautéuntiltranslucent.Addtheparsley,jalapeños,

sherry, mustard, and lemon juice. In a large bowl, combine the

crackercrumbs,breadcrumbs,sautédmixture,Fintastic,eggs,and

reservedtomalley.Mixwell.Transferthestuffingtoalargebaking

dishorfoilpan.

Place the seafood and stuffing pans in the smoker and cook for

about1hour,stirringtwice.Thescallopswilltakeonanicebrown

colorfromthesmoke.

Removetheseafoodandstuffingfromthesmokerandincreasethe

heatofthesmokerto350°F.Combinethesmokedseafoodwiththe

smoked stuffingandmixwell.Place thewhole lobsters ina large

bakingdishorfoilpanandlayerwithabout½inchofthestuffing

and seafood mixture. Layer the claw meat on top of that, and

generously top with the remaining seafood and stuffing mixture.

Sprinklethelemonjuice,paprika,andgratedParmesancheeseover

thetop.

Put thepanonabakingsheetandplace it in thesmoker tocook

until the internal temperature reaches 180°F on an instant-read

thermometer,1½to2½hours.

Note:Themosthumanewaytokillalobsterisfirsttorenderitunconsciousbyplacingitinthefreezer

for1½ to2hours.When the lobster is coldandno longermoving,place it onaheavyboard, takea

strongsharpknifeanddriveitthroughthecenterofthecrossonthebackofitshead.

SidesANDCondiments

Sidesshouldbeoutstanding.Sincetheaverageadultstomachcanholdonlyaquartoffoodandbeverages

at one sitting, it makes sense to be fussy with your

ounces.

Our side dish and condiment standards are not

complicated. Aside from looking good and tasting

great, we want them to be a good match with the

meat. To illustrate with some extreme examples, it

won’t work to garnish barbecued spareribs with

pickledherring. ServingNewEngland clam chowder

withbarbecuedbrisketisalsonotagoodidea.Maybe

that’swhymostjointsseemtoservebeans,slaw,and

potatosalad,thoughafewfeaturecheesytaters,and

occasionallyoneheats thingsupwith some jalapeño

hushpuppies.

In this chapter, we’ve chosen side dishes and

condiments worthy of sharing plate space with the

bestbarbecueinAmericaorelsewhere.Enjoy!

G

JoJos

Ted’s19thHoleBar-B-Que2814E.38thSt.Minneapolis,MN55406612-721-2023

olf is an eighteen-hole game. The “nineteenth hole” is arefreshment place, usually a clubhouse. Thanks to the latelegendarypitmasterandprogolferTedCook,the19thHoleis

alsoarefreshingbarbecuejoint.

Ted’sneighborhoodispoisedforchange.Onourlastvisitinfact,nextdoor a sign in a cracked glass storefrontwindowproclaimed, “There’sHopeOutreachMission.”At anearbygas stationyouprepay the clerkstationed behind thick bulletproof glass, and a few tattoo parlors andbeerjointsechothepast,butcoffeeshopsandethniceaterieshintofapromisingfuture.

Moses Quartey is aMinneapolin by way of Ghana. He came to theUniversity of Minnesota for graduate studies in microbiology andbiochemistry.Tomakeendsmeet,MosestookajobatTed’s,thenownedby mother and son Priscilla and Mike Davis. Moses found a highercalling, and now he owns Ted’s.Moses, like Priscilla andMike before

him, prepares and cooks the barbecue exactly as Ted did starting in1968.HehasalsokeptPriscilla’ssoulfoodsonthemenu.“We’vebeendoingthesamethingfor40years,overandoveragain,”Mosestoldus.

Ted’s is carryout only. The menu is on the wall behind the whiteFormica order counter. Framed pictures of menu items adorn anotherwall. When you’re ready, look up to the window, and, like a hungrytravelerseekingmannafromheaven,tellMoseswhatyouwant.

WhatTed’slacksincomfortsitmakesupinfoodandfriendlyservice.We liked thepork ribs best—spares, lightly rubbed, slow smokedwithapple,cherry,andhickoryinagenuinecustom-builtbarbecuepitthatisgrandfatheredfromMinneapolis’sstrictsmokeemissioncodes.LiketheoriginalFamousDave’s innearbyCalhounSquareandtheCozyCornerpit in Memphis, Ted’s pit is enclosed with sliding glass walls and achimney hood that vents from the center. Some pitmasters call it an“aquarium pit.” Moses can check the meat without losing heat andsmoke. Ted’s grandmother’s tomato-based tangy sweet sauce with atouchofallspicelendsatastycomplementtothebarbecue.

For a totally soulful barbecue feast, add beef ribs, sliced barbecuebeef,pulledpork,chicken,ribtips,andallthesides—collardgreens,redbeans and rice, black-eyed peas, baked beans, potato salad, coleslaw,corn muffins. Take home some made-from-scratch 19th Hole peachcobblerandsweetpotatopieforapostfeasttreat.Butmostofall,donot

leave Ted’swithout your Jo Jos!MosesQuartey told us how tomakethem: “Leave the skins on.Wash themup. Cut themup, and deep-frythem.”Here’sthefullrecipe.

JOJOSServes

4to6russetpotatoes,scrubbedbutnotpeeled

Canolaoil,fordeep-frying

Salt

Pat the potatoes dry, slice them into -inch-thick rounds or 2½-

inch-longwedges about½ inchwide. Heat the oil in your deep-

fryer to 350°-360°F (or use a deep pot and measure the oil

temperature with a deep-frying thermometer). Place the potato

rounds or wedges in the hot oil and fry until golden brown.

Carefully remove them from the hot oil and drain them. Season

withsalttotasteandserve.

T

FamousFresh-CutFriesArthurBryant’sBarbeque

1727BrooklynAve.KansasCity,MO64127816-231-1123http://www.arthurbryantsbbq.com

here’snothingfancyaboutthisfamous“world-classrestaurant.”ThelateMr.Bryantcalleditsimply“agreasehouse.”Thewallsareadornedwithframedphotosandtestimoniesbyfamousand

wanna-be-famous customers. There’s also a framed portrait of ArthurBryantandanenlargedcartoonbyLeeJudge,localpoliticalcartoonist.The cartoon features Saint Peter and Mr. Bryant at the Pearly Gates.Saint Peter wants to know, “Did you bring sauce?” Arthur Bryant’ssauces canbepurchasedat the restaurant, in supermarkets throughoutKC,oronline.

The menu features barbecued brisket sandwiches, pork spareribs,turkey,chicken,ham,beans,coleslaw,andfries.ArthurBryant’sfriesarea favorite, and they are awelcome exception to the ubiquitous precutfrozen majority sold at other places. Bryant’s fries pair well with allbarbecued meats on the menu. Dip them or douse them with ArthurBryant’s Original sauce or Sweet Heat for extra pleasure. Here’s howtheydoit.

FAMOUSFRESH-CUTFRIESServes4

4poundspurelard,suchasArmour,orasneeded

4largerussetpotatoes,washedbutnotpeeledandcutinto

-inchfrenchfriesorasdesired

Salt

Heat the lard to 325°F in a deep-fryer. You could use any frying

shorteningsuchasCriscooracanolaoilinsteadoflard,butyou’ll

lose flavor.Divide the fries intoabout8batchesandblancheach

batchforabout3minutesinthehotoil.Draineachbatchonpaper

towelsorawirerack.Forbestresults,put theblanchedfries ina

cooleruntilallofthebatchesaredone.

To finish the fries, heat the oil to 400°F.Drop the blanched fries

intothehotoilinbatchesandcookfor4to5minutes,oruntilthey

areascrispasyouwant.Seasontotastewithsalt.Theresult isa

sweet,crispy-outside/soft-insidemoundoffriesfitforroyalty.

WHATISTHEGREASEHOUSEUNIVERSITY?

The late Arthur Bryant appreciated the fame hisbarbecue joint attracted, but it never went to his

head. Pleased and amused would be the more

accurate description. “It’s just a greasehouse,” he

wouldsay.

The Greasehouse University owes its name to

Arthur Bryant. It has no physical campus. It has no

T

uniform curriculum. But it’s real. It’s the barbecue

schoolofhardknocks.MasterofBarbecueandDoctor

of Barbecue Philosophy degrees are awarded by the

university in cooperation with the Kansas City

BarbequeSociety.

Our hope is that someday there will be an actual

GreasehouseUniversitycampus.

NorthCarolina-StyleBoiledPotatoes

Stephenson’sBar-B-Q11964NC50Hwy.NorthWillowSpring,NC27592919-894-4530

ous an importantmeasureof the character of a community isthequalityofitsbarbecue.We’renotsayingthatatownwithoutbarbecue is a town without character. Thanks to Stephenson’s

Bar-B-Q, however, Willow Spring gets high marks on character, eventhoughtherestaurantis10milesfromdowntown.Ajourneytothisruralagriculturalareaforswinediningisworthyourdime.

Founder Paul Stephenson started out as a farmer. He got theinspirationtogointothebarbecuebusinesswhenhefiguredoutthatthehogshewassellingtootherpitmastersweregettingahighermonetaryyieldasribsandsandwichesthanhewasgettingfromsellingthewholeanimalforsomeoneelsetocook.Hisvalue-addedbulblitup.EventuallyPaul learnedhowtobarbecue,andhemadethetransitionfromfarmertopitmaster.Paulandhiswife,Ann,managedtoraisetwoboys,AndyandWayne,thankstothepopularityofthebarbecue.Thebusinesswasalso a good venue for teaching and learning business skills, pitmaster

skills,andthevalueofhardworkandcustomerservice.

The restaurant has room for lots of hungry customers in a country-style setting. The chopped pork and the ribs are delicious, and thebarbecueiswhatyou’retherefor,butbesuretogetpotatoes,too.Youcan’tgetboiledpotatoesonthesideatjustanybarbecuejoint,exceptineasternNorthCarolina,where “barbecued potatoes” are standard fare.Our version, with a mix of red and white unpeeled new potatoes, isdifferent fromStephenson’s, but it’s true to the easternNorthCarolinaboiled potato tradition. Vinegar, peppers, hot sauce, and salt—thebarbecuesauceofchoiceintheseparts—makesitso.

NORTHCAROLINA-STYLEBOILEDPOTATOESServes6to8

1cupapplecidervinegar

1teaspoonhotsauce,preferablyTexasPete

1teaspoonkoshersalt

1teaspooncrushedblackpepper

1teaspoonhotredpepperflakes

3poundssmallnewpotatoes,redandwhite

8tablespoons(1stick)unsaltedbutter,melted

Saltandblackpepper

Putthevinegar,hotsauce,salt,blackpepper,andredpepperina

jar.Screwonthe lidandshakethe jartomixtheingredients.Set

aside.

Coverthepotatoeswithcoldwater.Addthevinegarsauce.Bringto

aboilandsimmeruntiltender,45to60minutes.Drain.Topwith

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melted butter and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve

immediately.

CheesyPotatoBake

JackStackBarbecue13441HolmesRd.KansasCity,MO64145816-942-9141http://www.jackstackkc.com

ack Stack gave us several recipes, including its lamb ribs (page97) and the chicken livers (page 106) it used to serve at itsHolmesRoad location.Thesecheesypotatoesareoneofourall-

timefavorites,andwehaveyettomeetanyonewhodoesn’tlikethem.You can purchase aged cheddar cheese sauce at the grocery store oronline.Enjoy!

CHEESYPOTATOBAKEServes6to8

2½cupsheavycream

1cupagedcheddarcheesesauce

1cupfreshlygratedParmesancheese

½cupfreshlygratedcheddarcheese

½cupfreshlygratedJackcheese

2tablespoonsmincedgarlic

2teaspoonsonionpowder

½teaspoongarlicsalt

2teaspoonsblackpepper

2teaspoonskoshersalt2½poundsredpotatoes

Mincedfreshparsley,forgarnish

Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a large bowl, combine the heavy

cream, cheese sauce, cheeses, garlic, onion powder, garlic salt,

blackpepper,andkoshersaltandmixwell.

Wash and slice the potatoes into -inch-thick slices and place

immediately into the saucemixture.Mix by hand to coat all the

surfacesoftheslicedpotatoes.Placethemixtureina9by13-inch

bakingdishandcovertightlywithaluminumfoil.Bakeforabout1

hour.Uncoverandbakefor20to30minuteslonger,untilthetop

isgoldenbrown.Letcool,garnishwithfreshparsley,andserve.

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CheesyTaters

HickoryCreekBar-B-Que711HighSt.BaldwinCity,KS66006785-594-RIBS(7427)or620-228-1328

ic Gere not only serves top-notch barbecue but does it in alocale that is rich in fame and infamy. Not far from here, in1856, John Brown answered attacks on abolitionists in

Lawrence,Kansas,bydraggingfivepro-slaveryfarmersfromtheirhomesin thedeadofnightandkilling them. Itwascalled the“PottawatomieMassacre.” Near here alsowas the 1856 Battle of Black Jack betweenpro-slavery forces and John Brown’s slavery abolition fighters. FromKansasCityyou’llpassthesiteonyourwayintotown.Somuchbloodwas shed in the Kansas/Missouri borderwars in the 1850s and 1860sthatKansasTerritorywascalled“BleedingKansas.”

Ricalwayswantedtoownarestaurant.Heknewtherisks.That’swhyhe tested thewaters firstanddidn’t jump into thedeependwithboth

feet all at once. For several years Ric held barbecue court with hismobilepiteverySaturdayintheparkinglotofStanVicker’sAntiquesonthe Prairie. Customers often said, “Why don’t you open a restaurant?”Ric got the same question when he catered and at community eventswhere he sold barbecue. In 2004 the space on High Street becameavailable.Ric andhiswife,Angela, decided to take the leapandopenHickoryCreekBar-B-Que.

We like the environment and the friendly service at Hickory Creek.Thebrickwallslendasenseofhistoryandwarmth.BesuretofindoutwhereTofuishangingout.FromtimetotimeRicrelocatesthelife-sizepapier-mâché pink pig known as “The Ugliest Pig in Kansas.” TofuinspiredHickoryCreek’s annualUglyPigContest.Although the judgespick a newwinner every year, Tofu remains the all-time number one.Proceedsfromthecontestbenefitlocalcharities.

HickoryCreekservesexcellentbeansandpotatosalad,buttheCheesyTatersgetourvote.EatthemwithRic’shickory-smokedporkribs,pulledpork,leanandtenderbeefbrisket,sausage,orturkey.RicknowshiswayaroundhisSouthernPridepit!

CHEESYTATERSServes12

½cupmincedonion

2cupsshreddedcheddarcheese

1(16-ounce)containersourcream

8tablespoons(1stick)butter,melted

1(10 -ounce)cancreamofchickensoup

1(32-ounce)packagefrozenshreddedhashbrowns,thawed

Saltandpepper,totaste

Preheatyoursmokerto230°-250°FCombinealltheingredientsina

large bowl andmix well. Spray a 9 by 13-inch baking pan with

nonstickspray,fillthepanwiththemixture,cover,andsmokefor

about3hours,untilthetopformsagoldencrust.

THEBEANSOFBARBECUEWe’retoldthatbarbecuewascommercializedintheearly1900sofnecessity.Recent immigrantbutchers,

the story goes, discovered that the barbecuemethod

of cooking transformed tough, hard-to-sell cuts of

meat such as beef brisket and pork spareribs into

tender, juicy, smoky irresistible meat feasts. Tough

scraps could also be ground into meat for sausage,

burgers,andchili.

It figures that beans are one of the most popular

sidedisheswithbarbecue.Driedbeansarecheapand

tough.Whensoakedinwater,drained,andsimmered

in fresh water until tender, with a variety of

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seasoningsadded,theyrock!Aswithbarbecue,you’ll

findbean sidedishes inavarietyofpresentations in

barbecuejointsacrossthecountry.Pit-bakedoroven-

bakedbeansinbarbecuesaucewithmeatscrapsand

otheringredientssuchasonionandpeppersarevery

common. In central Texas we found mostly pinto

beans with jalapeños, sometimes as a free, help-

yourself side dish. Fresh or canned green beans are

servedinsomejoints,too.

VanizedPotato

Van’sPigStands717E.HighlandShawnee,OK74804405-273-0000http://www.pigstands.com

an’s Pig Stands are in the mainstream of American barbecuehistory,sowecouldn’tleavethemoutofthestory.“Van”isthenickname of the founder, the late Leroy F. Vandegrift. Today

Van’sson,JerryVandegrift,istheowner,president,and“HeadHog”oftheVan’sPigStandsenterprise.Jerry’ssonJevisareamanagerfortheShawneestoresandforretailbarbecuesaucesales.TheyownPigStands

inShawnee,Moore,Norman,andOklahomaCity.

We’re partial to Van’s Shawnee location, due to its history as theoldest barbecue restaurant in Oklahoma owned and operated by thesamefamily.Ithasbeentheresince1935.Wealsoliketheatmosphere,the service, and the excellent Pig Sandwich® common to all Van’s PigStands.

Another fun retro perk about the Shawnee joint is the return of theCharcoalRoominthebasement.Godownthereandhaveafeast.Startwith the chicken liver appetizer.With your charcoal-grilled rib eye orKansasCitystrip,getthehousesaladandVanizedPotato.Saveroomforkeylimepie,pecanpie,oranotherofthesevendeliciousdessertchoices.You’llwant tomake some return trips for a ribdinner,brisketdinner,charcoaledtuna,orpoachedsalmon.

WiththeclosingofmanyoriginalPigStands inTexas,wecanthanktheVandegriftfamilyforkeepingthePigStandstraditionalive.ThefirstPigStandopenedinDallasin1921,brainchildofJesseG.Kirby.That’swhen transportation by private auto was really beginning to take off,and Kirby noticed that people liked their cars so much they werereluctant to get out, even to eat. So Kirby invented drive-ins. Youorderedfromyourcar,hadyourfooddeliveredtoyourcar,andstayedinsidethecartoeat.ModelTsandother1920scarshadrunningboardstomakeiteasiertogetinandout.PigStandservers—youngpre-teenorearly-teensboysdressedinwhiteshirts,whitehats,andblackbowties—wouldhopontotherunningboardtotakecustomers’orders.Thustheywerenicknamed“carhops.”

Besides being the first drive-in restaurant, Pig Stands have beencredited with several other restaurant firsts in their Texas birthplace.Here’s the complete list:

Firstdrive-inrestaurants

Firstcurbservicewithcarhops

Firstdrive-throughservice

Firstrestaurantstouseneonsigns

Firstrestaurantstousefluorescentlighting

Firstrestaurantstouseair-conditioning

InventedTexasToast

Inventedonionrings

Inventedchicken-friedsteaksandwich

Today’sVan’sPigStandsinOklahomahaveaddedanotherinvention:thetwice-bakedpotato.Predictinghowmuchfoodabarbecuejointwillsellonanygivendayisalwaysaguess,asitwasatVan’sPigStandinthelate1940s.Insteadofhavingtotellcustomerswhoorderedabakedpotatothattheyweresoldout,theVandegriftsstartederringonthesideof too many instead of too few. Throwing out the extras botheredGrandmother Thelma Vandegrift, so she set her mind to figuring outhowtoavoidallthatwaste.Andthusthetwice-bakedpotatowasborn.Here is Van’s recipe. For best results, prepare the potatoes at least 24hoursbeforeserving.

VANIZEDPOTATOServes6to8

5poundsIdahobakingpotatoes

½yellowonion,diced

½poundbacon,diced

½cupMilnotorotherevaporatedmilk

1½teaspoonssalt

½teaspoonblackpepper

Garlicspreadorgarlicbutter,forserving

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Wash the potatoes and place them

directlyonarackinthemiddleoftheovenforatleast1hour,until

softwhenprickedorsqueezed.

Whilethepotatoesarebaking,puttheonionandbaconinasmall

saucepan over medium-low heat and cook, stirring regularly to

prevent sticking, until the onions are translucent, 3 to5minutes.

Removefromtheheatandsetaside.

Remove the potatoes from the oven. Cut off one side of each

potato,keepingyourknifeasclose to theskinaspossible, soyou

don’tremoveanyofthepotatoinside.Then,usingaspoon,remove

the potato flesh from inside the skin and place in a largemixing

bowl,beingcarefultonotpiercetheskinwiththespoon.Reserve

theskins.

Addthemilk,salt,pepper,bacon,andonions,includingthebacon

drippings, to the mixing bowl with the potato flesh and mix

thoroughly until you have a smooth mashed potato consistency.

Then,usingapastrybagor agallon-size food storagebagwitha

corner cut off, squeeze the potato mixture back into the potato

skins.Coverthepotatoesandplaceintherefrigeratortochillfora

fewhoursorovernight.

Whenreadytoserve,placethepotatoesonasheetpanandcookin

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a 350°F oven for 20 to 30 minutes, until golden brown on top.

Servewithasideofgarlicspreadorgarlicbutter.

PotatoSalad

Danny’sPlace902S.CanalSt.Carlsbad,NM88220505-885-8739http://www.dannysbbq.com

anny’sPlacegotitsstartasaDairyQueenfranchise—theonlyone to serve barbecue. Butwhen owners Danny and CarolynGaulden were pressured to stop serving barbecue and start

servingstandardDQfare, theydecidedtoremodelandopentheirownrestaurant,Danny’s Place.Danny’s Place not onlymakes great smokedfresh ham (page 94) but also serves great potato salad. Here is therecipe.

POTATOSALAD

Makesabout6pounds,serving12hungryfolksorabout16averageeaters

4poundsrussetpotatoes

4or5largeeggs

1medium-smallonion,chopped

3celerystalks,chopped

½cupchoppedpimientosorroastedredpeppers

1cupsweetpicklerelishwithjuice

2teaspoonssalt

1teaspoonblackpepper

3tablespoonsyellowmustard

2tablespoonsapplecidervinegar

1to1½cupsMiracleWhip

Paprika,forgarnish

Boilthepotatoesuntilfork-tender.Coolandpeel.Chopintopieces

aboutfingernailsizeorsmaller.Boiltheeggsfor15minutes,cool,

peel, and chop into small pieces. Add the eggs, chopped onion,

celery,pimientos,picklerelish,salt,pepper,mustard,vinegar,and

1cupoftheMiracleWhiptothepotatoesandmixwell.Addalittle

moreMiracleWhip if themixture seems too dry, but be careful;

how much you need will vary depending on how starchy the

potatoesare.Turnthepotatosaladintoaservingdishandfinishoff

withadustingofpaprikaforanicepresentation.Youcanalsoadd

a couple of sliced boiled eggs on top if you want to get fancy.

Refrigeratefor3to4hoursorovernightbeforeserving.

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Southern-StylePotatoSalad

Wilber’sBarbecue4172USHighway70E.Goldsboro,NC27534919-778-5218http://wilbersbarbecue.com

anypeople toldus thatWilber’s isamandatorystop ifyouwant the true flavor of eastern North Carolina whole hog.Wetriedit,andwe’regladwedid.Thesedaysmanywhole

hogsineasternNorthCarolinaarecookedwithgas,butatWilber’syouget it thetraditionalway,cookedinpits fueledwithslow-smokingoakcoals.Aftercookingallnight,themeatisseparatedfromthebonesandchopped. Some dry seasonings are mixed in, but not enough tooverpowertheflavorofthehog.Wilber’svinegar-basedbarbecuesauceis on the table so you can add asmuch extra seasoning as youwish.Potato salad, slaw, and hushpuppies round out the meal. It’s goodenoughthatwewishWilberShirleywouldopenajointinKansasCity.He has been barbecuing pigs inNorth Carolina since 1962, so it’s notlikelyhewouldentertainamove.We’rejustgladhe’sinGoldsboro,andwe’vejoinedthe“Wilber’sisamandatorystop”chorus.We’llbeback.

Mr. Shirley had left the premises shortly before we arrived, so wedidn’tget thepleasureofavisitwithhim.Hadwedoneso,wewouldhaveaskedforhispotatosaladrecipe.Welikedit,andwenoticedthatWilber’sisoneofonlyafewbarbecuejointsinNorthCarolinathatservepotatosalad.Ourversionhasafewextrasthatwelikeinapotatosalad.

SOUTHERN-STYLEPOTATOSALADServes6to8

2to3poundspotatoes

4hard-cookedeggs,peeledandchopped

4celerystalks,chopped

½cupsweetpicklerelish

2tablespoonsdicedcannedpimiento

½cupdicedsweetonion

¼cupdicedgreenbellpepper

Seasaltandblackpepper

1cuprealmayonnaise

2tablespoonsyellowmustard

Wash the potatoes and cover with water; bring to a boil and

simmerfor30to40minutes,untiltender.Drainthewaterfromthe

potatoesandsetthepotatoesasidetocool.Whenthepotatoesare

cool, peel and dice them. Add the eggs, celery, relish, pimiento,

onion,greenpepper,andsaltandpeppertotaste.Stiruntilmixed.

Stirthemayonnaiseandmustardtogetheruntilmixedandthenadd

themixturetothepotatoes;mixwell.Refrigerateforatleast1hour

beforeserving.

BarbecueBakedBeans

BossHawg’sBBQ2833S.W.29thSt.Topeka,KS66614

B785-273-7300http://www.bosshawgsbbq.com

ossHawg’sBBQisafamily-ownedTopeka-basedbarbecuejointthat came about by way of barbecue competition. Hank andElizabethLumpkindecidedtotaketheirchampionshipbarbecue

tothecommercialarenain1986,andit’sawinner.BossHawg’sstartedoutwith carryout and cateringonly.They soonbecame successful andwellknownenoughtoopenthepresentlocationinashoppingcenteroffSouthwest29thStreet.Asfarasweknow,BossHawg’sBBQistheonlybarbecuethathasanofficialannexthat’sadiningroominaU.S.Navysubmarine,theUSSTopeka.

Shortly before his untimely death in 2003 at age 38, Hank andElizabeth opened the popular Pigskins Sports Bar adjacent to BossHawg’s.TheyusedmoneyHankhadwonon theTVshowJeopardy, topayforthebar.Fortunatelyforthebarbecueconsumerpublic,ElizabethcarriesontheBossHawg’stradition.Hankwouldwantitthatway.

At Boss Hawg’s, knotty pine walls and shelves are adorned withbarbecue sauces, trophies, ribbons, and other awards from barbecuecompetitions, plus artfully framed barbecue memorabilia. The BossHawg’s liquor license is framed with a picture of Carrie Nation, thefamous nineteenth-century hatchet-wielding prohibitionist known forwreaking havoc in saloons. The menu has had a makeover with thearrivalofChefWilliamFuschino.Hehasaddedagourmettouchtoafewnew grilled and smoked items—alder-smoked salmon, beef tenderloin,Asian pork ribs with peanut butter sauce, and one we’re especiallyanxioustotry,Elizabeth’sSmokedWatermelonRind.Thequalityofthe

food is the same, though.Elizabethwill tell you, “We care about you,ourguests,inawaynochainorfranchiseevercould.Wecareaboutthequalityofserviceandfoodyoureceive.”

In our quest for America’s best barbecue, asking each and everybarbecuer for a recipe that has never been published was a chore initself.Itwasevenhardertoaskforaspecificrecipe,whichwasusuallynot exactlywhat theywanted to give us. Itwas easy to get bean andcoleslawrecipes,andwewantedsomeofthosethings,butinmostcaseswehad todecline those recipesandask forothers. In thecaseofBossHawg’s, we really wanted the baked beans! Are these the best bakedbeans ever? Many people say they are, and we concur. Their bakedbeansarecookedinthepitfor2to3hoursswimminginbarbecuesaucewith apples, raisins, onions, dark brown sugar, and bacon. Thanks toBossHawg’s,hereisthehomeversion.

BossHawg’sliquorlicenseisdisplayedwithapictureofCarrieNation.IthasaspecialironysinceCarrieNationwasno

strangertoTopeka.InJanuary1902shewasaguestspeakeratatemperanceconventionthere.Shebrandedthehatchet

ashersaloonattacktoolandhadsouvenirhatchetpinsmade.Saleofthepinshelpedfurtherhercauseandpayoffa

slandersuitshelost.Carrieoncesaid,“Oh,Itellyou,ladies,youneverknowwhatjoyitgivestostartouttosmasharum

shop.”

BARBECUEBAKEDBEANSServes6to8

3(16-ounce)cansporkandbeans,rinsedanddrained

2cupsdarkbrownsugar

1 cup cooked chopped bacon, barbecue pork (page 208), or

barbecuebrisket(page208)

1cupdicedtartapple,suchasGrannySmith

1cupdicedonion

1cupbarbecuesauce

¼cupgoldenraisins

2teaspoonsLiquidSmoke

2clovesgarlic,pressed

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½teaspoongroundcoriander

Combineall the ingredients in a2-quart casseroledish andblend

well.Bakeina350°Fovenuntilbubbly,45to60minutes.

BrownBeans

Rooster’sBar-B-Q2001CappsRd.Harrison,AR72601870-741-5888http://www.roostersbar-b-q.com/

ooster’sisadreamcometrue.Rusty“Rooster”Deeswasintheconstruction business but loved to cook barbecue. In the late1980s Rusty made his first smoker from old metal, including

someoldroadsigns.Hespentalotoftimeperfectingsaucerecipesandtryingdifferentwaysofcooking ribs,pork,andbrisket.People saidheshouldopenarestaurant,soheopenedRooster’sinNovember2004.

Rusty’sgoalwastogivepeoplegoodfoodatagoodpricewithgoodservice and a good atmosphere. He figured that would bring peopleback, and he has succeeded. Rooster’swas voted the best barbecue inHarrisonthelasttwoyears.

One of Rooster’s side dishes that you don’t get just everywhere isbrownbeans,andhereisouradaptationofhisrecipe.ThisisthesamerecipePaul’smother’ssideofthefamilyhasbeenmakingforyears,withPaul’s own special touch. Serve it with all of the fixin’s. It goes greatwithcornbread,friedpotatoes,andfriedcabbage,andyoucanfollowitwithRooster’sAppleDumplingsfordessert(page165).

BROWNBEANS

Serves8to10

1pounddriedpintobeans

1large,meatyhamhock

1largeonion,chopped

2clovesgarlic,minced

1teaspoonchilipowder

1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

¼teaspoonblackpepper,ortotaste

Placethebeansand8cupswaterinalargestockpot.Addtheham

hock,onion,andgarlic.Seasonwithchilipowder,salt,andpepper.

Bringtoaboilandcookfor2minutes.Coverandremovefromthe

heat.Letstandfor1hour.

Returnthepottotheheatandbringtoaboilonceagain.Reduce

theheattomedium-lowandsimmerforatleast

3hours to blend the flavors, addingwater as needed.The longer

yousimmer, thethicker thebrothwillbecome.Paul likes tocook

hisforabout6hours.

Remove the ham hock from the broth and let cool. Remove the

meatfromtheboneandreturnthemeattothestockpot,discarding

thebone.Adjusttheseasoningsasneededandserve.

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Van’sColeslaw

BobSyke’sBarB-Q17249thAve.Bessemer,AL35020205-426-1400http://www.bobsykes.com

an Sykes grew up in the barbecue business. His parents, Boband Maxine Sykes, opened a barbecue joint in Birmingham,Alabama,in1956,ayearafterVanwasborn.Thecombination

of Maxine’s business savvy and Bob’s pit savvy made for a successfulbarbecue business launch from the get-go. A dozen years after theBirmingham opening Bob Syke’s had moved to Bessemer and hadspawnedfourteenfranchisesinAlabamaandTennessee.LonghoursandextremestresstookatollonBobSykesin1970.Astrokeincapacitatedhimtothepointthathecouldnolongerworkinthebusiness.ItwasuptoMaxineandher teenage son,Van, tokeep thebusinessgoing.Theydropped the franchise businesses and focused onmaking theBessemerrestaurant thebest it couldbe.To this day theyhave livedup to thatlegacy.BobSykes,whodiedin1990,wouldsurelybeproudofhiswifeandson.

WehaveknownVanbyreputationover thepast25years.Whenwetastedhisbarbecuesaucein1984atthefirstDiddy-Wa-DiddyNationalBarbecue Sauce Contest, we could tell he knew a thing or two aboutbarbecue.Sincethenwe’vegottentoknowhimasfellowmembersoftheSouthern Foodways Alliance. At a symposium on barbecue we shared

somebench-shakingbelly laughswithVanwhileCalvinTrillin regaleduswithstraight-facedhumorandinsightsrelatedtothesubjectathand.

Van upholds the high standards he learned from Bob: fresh, qualityingredients and no shortcuts. Van’s barbecued pork, beef, and ribs aretender, smoky, and delicious. Try to save room for pie! According toVan,“EverybodylovesagoodslawwiththeirBBQ.”ThankstoVanfortherecipehesharedwithus.

VAN’SCOLESLAWServes6to8

½cuprealmayonnaise(heavy-duty,notlow-fat)

1½tablespoonstarragonvinegar

1tablespoonsugar

7cupsthinlyslicedgreencabbage

1cupgratedcarrots

Saltandblackpepper

Choppedfreshparsley

Mix themayonnaise, vinegar, and sugar in a largebowl.Add the

cabbageandcarrotsandtosstocoat.Seasontotastewithsaltand

pepper. Cover and refrigerate for up to 4 hours. Sprinkle with

parsleyandserve.

ColeslawandBakedBeans

Woody’sBar-B-Que

W553MillahamSt.Waldenburg,AR72475870-579-2251

hosaidyoucouldn’tsetupyourbarbecuerigonacorner,make a living, and get famous too?Woody (William) andCecelia Wood proved you could when they got into

barbecuein1985tosupplementWoody’scrop-dustingincome.

TruckersputWoody’sonthemap;theywouldpulltheirbigrigsintothe parking lot and chow down on his pig sandwich and ribs to go.“How about a bottle of your barbecue sauce?” they’d ask. “We don’tbottle it”was theanswer. “Well, if youeverdo, Iwant a case to takeback to Ohio!” So Woody and Cecelia started making 5 gallons ofbarbecuesauceatatimeandbottlingit,butthatmadeonlyabout2½cases.ThatwasOKforthefirstyears;thentheygraduatedtoa20-gallonpotandcouldmake10½casesatatime.

Since then those sauces, alongwithWoody’s barbecueandbarbecuerubs,havewonnumerousawardsat theNationalBarbecueAssociation(NBBQA)contest.Woodyhastakenhomefourorfivefirst-placeawardsmorethanonceandalsowonfirstplaceattheDallasGourmetMarket.Andbusinessisstillbooming,withthetruckersstillspreadingthewordofgreatBBQwiththeirCBsblaring,“GoodQ—comeandgetit!”

In fact the barbecue stand was doing so well and demand for hissauceswassohighthatWoodyhadseveralco-packersintheSouthmakeasampleofhissaucetomakeitmorewidelyavailable.Notoneofthefive made it like Woody did, though. A close approximation was notwhatWoodyandCeceliahadbuilttheirbusinessandreputationon.Sothey did the only thing they could do: they built their own bottlingplant.Nowtheysellseveralsauces,rubs,seasonings,andmarinades—allaward-winning.

Despitehavingtheirownplant,Woody’sstilldoesallofitsbarbecuebusiness out of a Winne-bago, with everything cooked on a largecustom-builtKlosebarbecuepit.Andit’sopenonlythreedaysaweek—

Wednesday,Thursday,andFriday—plusSaturdaysduringduckseason.

It’sworthheadingtoWoody’sononeofthosedaysfortheoustandingpork sandwich. The slaw on it is a delicious sweet and sour, not toosweetandnottoosour.Hereistherecipe,moreorless.It’salldonetotaste, so you be the judge of how sweet or sour youwant it and addmoreorlessofanythingtotaste.Thebakedbeansarealsoquitegood.

WHYPICKLESWITHBARBECUE?WehaveeatenathundredsofbarbecuejointsacrossAmerica,andwehaveseldomfoundonethatdoesn’t

serve pickles with the barbecue. Sometimes it’s dill

chips,likeatArthurBryant’s,whereyouhelpyourself

toasmanyasyouwant fromabig jarat theendof

theservingline.Sometimesit’sadelidillspear.Since

thecustom isnearuniversal,we figured itwouldbe

easytofindoutwhen,where,andwhyitgotstarted,

but it was no easy task at all. We called on our

barbecue buddy and eminent historian of barbecue,

Dr.HowardTaylorofDallas,Texas,tofindoutwhat

heknew.

According to Howard, pickles were on deli

sandwichesoronthesidebytheearly1800sandon

hamburgers by the early 1900s. In Texas, barbecue

workersoftenatebarbecue,bread,onions,andpickles

off butcher paper with no forks. Using sliced white

breadortortillastoeatbarbecuewascommonbythe

early 1900s. During 1946, Leonard’s in Memphis

popularized the use of coleslaw on pulled pork

sandwiches. Around 1950, some Texas restaurants

tried serving pickle relish on barbecued beef

sandwiches,butluckilytheideadiedquickly.

We still don’t know the whole story behind the

pairing, but we’ll keep enjoying pickles with our

barbecue.

WHOISTEXASPETE?

Sityourselfdownatalmostanyrestaurant inNorthCarolinaandyou’llseeabottleofTexasPeteHotSauce.WhyisaTexassauceso

popularinNorthCarolina?It’sreallyaNorthCarolinasauce,made

by the Garner family in Winston-Salem. The originators, four

brothers—Samuel,Thad,Ralph,andHaroldGarner—firstsettledon

thename“MexicanJoe”fortheirnewlyinventedhotsaucebackin

1929.Theirdadsaidno;itneededanAmericanname,likeTexas.

They could have called it Texas Sam in honor of their father,

Samuel, and alluding to the Sam Houston of Texas fame. But

Samuel had a better idea. He suggested “Texas Pete,” after the

nicknameforsonHaroldGarner.Thusitbecame“TexasPete,”and

ithasbeenfamouseversince.

Texas Pete’s mix of aged hot peppers, vinegar, and salt has

become an essential ingredient in hundreds of barbecue sauces,

competitionandotherwise.Wehaveyettofindabarbecuejointin

North Carolina without Texas Pete on the premises. Ardie never

leaves home without it. He often tells people he is meeting for

breakfast, lunch, or dinner, “I’ll bring Texas Pete.” They

unknowingly ask him upon arrival, “Where is Texas Pete?” at

which point he pulls a bottle from his pocket or briefcase. It’s a

gentlyhotsaucethatwon’tblastthesensorsoffyourtastebuds.If

youcan’tfinditwhereyoulive,call800-476-7383,ororderonline

atwww.texaspete.com.

COLESLAWServes6to8

1headgreencabbage,shreddedandchopped

½cupsweetpicklerelish

¼cupMiracleWhip(notmayonnaise)

Saltandblackpepper

Combinealltheingredientsinalargebowlandblendwell.Adjust

theseasoningstoyourtaste.

BAKEDBEANSServes6to8

2(16-ounce)cansporkandbeans

¼mediumonion,coarselychopped

1tablespoondarkbrownsugar

1largegreenorredbellpepper,chopped

cupWoody’sOriginalMildBar-B-Qsauce

2teaspoonsyellowmustard

Preheattheovento350°F.Ina1½-quartbakingdish,combinethe

pork and beans, onion, brown sugar, chopped pepper, barbecue

sauce,andmustard,stirringtocombine.Bakethemixturefor30to

45minutes,untilhotandbubbling.

S

EasternNorthCarolinaColeslaw

Stamey’s2206HighPointRd.Greensboro,NC336-299-9888http://www.stameys.com

tamey’s means “barbecue” to residents of Greensboro and thesurroundingarea.Ithasbeensosince1930.Thebarbecuecomesfrom a distinguished lineage that started in Lexington, where

founderC.WarnerStameylearnedtheartandbusinessofbarbecuefromJessSwicegoodandSidWeaver.WhenWarnerturnedthebusinessoverto his sons, Keith andCharles, they had big shoes to fill and a stellarreputationtomaintain.Noproblem.Undertheirleadershipthebusinesscontinued to thrive, as it does to this day with two longstandinglocationsinGoldsboro.SinceKeith’sdeathin2001,CharlesandhissonCharlesKeith “Chip” Stameyhavedone an outstanding job of runningStamey’s,includingtheStameytraditionofhickory-smokedbarbecueincustom-builtpits.

Ifyou’venevertriedatraditionalCarolinapulledporksandwich, it’stimeto treatyourself toone.After that, theonlywayyou’lleatpulledporkiswithahelpingofgreatPiedmont-stylecoleslawslappedontop.Thesournotes intheslawcomplementthesweetnessof thepork. It isoneofourall-timefavoriteflavorcombos.

EASTERNNORTHCAROLINACOLESLAWServes8to10

½cupsugar

½cupketchup

½cupapplecidervinegar

2teaspoonssalt

2teaspoonsblackpepper

2teaspoonshotsauce,preferablyTexasPete

1mediumheadgreencabbage,coarselygrated

In a large bowl, stir together the sugar, ketchup, vinegar, salt,

pepper,andhotsauceuntilblended.Addthecabbagetothebowl

andtosstocoat.Coverandchillforatleast2hoursbeforeserving.

T

PinkColeslaw,andButtermilkBiscuitswithCountryHam

A&MGrill402E.CenterSt.Mebane,NC27302919-563-3721

heA&MGrillopenedjustafterWorldWarII,andwhileithasbeenmodernized since then, ithasan inviting,well-weatheredfeel. Itsoutsideisplainascanbe,butbeforeyouexityourcar

thearomas fromthebarbecuepit tellyouthatyou’re in forsomethingspecial. Inside, tables are covered with checkered blue cloths andoutfittedwithrollsofpapertowelsasnapkins.AbottleoftheubiquitousTexasPetesauceisoneachtable.

Whenthe founder’s son,CharlesMcAdams,Jr.,had tostepaside forhealth reasons, the many fans of A & M Grill were relieved that therestaurant would not be shuttered. Thanks to Charles’s wife, DonnaMcAdams, and daughters, Lisa Wright, Charlotte Regans, and KarenLewis,Mebane’sA&MGrillcontinuestoserveitsfamousporkbarbecuewithpinkslawandhushpuppies.WehadagoodvisitwithDonnaandLisa before our order arrived and are grateful to have their recipe forslaw.

PINKCOLESLAWServes6to8

½cuprealmayonnaise

¼cupketchup

1½tablespoonswhitevinegar

1tablespoonsugar

7cupschoppedgreencabbage

Saltandblackpepper

Mixthemayonnaise,ketchup,vinegar,andsugarina

largebowl;addthecabbageandtosstocoat.Season

to tastewithsaltandpepper.Refrigerateuntil ready

toserve.

ArdiewishesA&Mwouldserveachoppedporkandcoleslawomeletand was disappointed to hear it doesn’t serve barbecue for breakfast.Paul came up with a good substitute, one of his southern countryfavorites that isn’t exactly barbecue but is on A &M’smenu: countryhamonhomemadebiscuits.HereisPaul’srecipe.

BUTTERMILKBISCUITSWITHCOUNTRYHAMMakes12biscuits

3cupsall-purposeflour,ormoreasneeded

1tablespoonbakingpowder

1teaspoonseasalt

teaspoonbakingsoda

cupCriscoorlard

to1cupbuttermilk

12thinslicesofcountryham(ormoreifdesired)

Lardorcanolaoil,forfrying

Preheat the oven to 450°F and put a rack in themiddle. Sift the

flourtomakesuretherearenolumps.Addthebakingpowder,salt,

and baking soda. Slowly add the Crisco, working it into the dry

ingredientswithalargedinnerforkorspoonoryourhands.

Next add the buttermilk,working it into themixture and adding

only enough to moisten the dry ingredients. After everything is

thoroughly mixed, plop it down on a floured counter or cutting

board. Knead the dough until it is about the consistency of Play-

Doh.Ifthedoughisstillsticky,sprinklemoreflouronyourcounter

orcuttingboard.Asyoukneadyourdough,itwillpickupmoreof

theflour.

Whenyouhaveittherightconsistency,youcanshapeyourbiscuits

by hand or using a cookie or biscuit cutter. If using a cookie or

biscuit cutter, roll the dough ½ inch thick on a lightly floured

surface.Place thebiscuits ona lightlygreased cookie sheet.Bake

for15to18minutes,untilgoldenbrown.

While thebiscuits are baking, heat a little lardor canola oil in a

largeskilletovermedium-highheat.Frythehamononesideuntil

it justbegins tobrown, then turnand fry theother side.Remove

the biscuits from the oven, split them, fill them with slices of

countryham,andservewarm.If it’s for lunch,addasideofPink

Coleslaw.

Cast-IronSkilletCornBread

SkylightInn1501S.LeeSt.Ayden,NC28513

N252-746-4113

ational Geographic magazine once called the Skylight Inn the“Barbecue Capital of the World.” The late Pete Jones, thenowner,wassorightlyproudof thedistinction thathe topped

theroofofthejointwithametaldomemeanttoresemblethenation’scapitoldome.Thedomeisstillthere,servingasabeaconandanicon.

We can’t attest to how the barbecue at the Skylight Inn todaycompares to how it was when Pete ran the place, but you’ll get nocomplaintsfromus.Itwasworththetrip.InfactitwassogoodwewereseriouslytalkingaboutmovingtoNorthCarolina.Well,notsoseriouslythat we would actually leave Kansas City, also dubbed the barbecuecapitalof theworldbyothermagazinesandfoodwriters.ButwehavenoqualmsaboutsayingthefolkswholivecloseenoughtofrequenttheSkylightInnarefortunateindeed.

There’snothing fancyabout theplace,but there’sample seatingandthecomfortablefeelingthatyou’re intherightplace,becausethedoorkeeps opening to admit more customers and most look like this isbusiness as usual for them.You’ll hear the familiar chop-chop-chop ofcleavers on a large butcher block lit with heat lamps. Something weliked thatnot everyplacedoes is the additionofpig cracklings to thechopped pork. They must put them in shortly before serving, as theywereniceandcrunchy inour sandwiches.This isbasicNorthCarolinabarbecue goodness: a chopped pork sandwich topped with coleslaw,withasideofskilletcornbread,TexasPetehotsauceattheready,andaglassofsweettea.

OurbarbecuebuddyCarlRothrockmetusatSkylight.Thestaffwassobusyservingcustomersnoneofuscouldgettherecipeoutofthem,soPaulcameupwiththishomeversion.

SAUCEMATTERSORDOESIT?Many pitmasters have told us it’s the sauce thatmatters. “Anyone can barbecue,” they say, “but not

everyone canmake good sauce.” On the other hand

we’veheard—especiallyinTexas—that“Mybarbecue

issogooditdoesn’tneedsauce.”Insomeplacesitis

housepolicytoprohibitsauceonthepremises.Thus,

thebarbecuevs.sauceedictisreversed.“Anyonecan

makesauce,butnoteveryonecanbarbecue.”

Questionsalsoariseastowhatmakesagoodsauce.

Should the base be vinegar, tomato, mustard,

mayonnaise, soy, fruit, peppers, or something else?

Should saucebe spicyhot,ormild?Areany specific

herbs and spices essential?Whilewe canagreeona

few objective standards such as barbecue shouldn’t

tastelikelighterfluidanditshouldbetenderenough

to chew easily, people part ways on the other

questions. Barbecue aficionados debate all of these

questions andmany others. In the end there are no

rightorwronganswerswhenitcomestoquestionsof

individualtaste.

CINEMA’CUE

Barbecue is a major or bit player in many famousandinfamousmovies.Someofourfavorites:

GoneWiththeWind(1939).There’sabarbecueatthe

beginning of the movie, and the word is uttered

eleventimesduringthe3-hour-and-42-minutemovie.

Giant (1956). This blockbuster big-screen drama

starring James Dean, Rock Hudson, and Elizabeth

Taylor is based on Edna Ferber’s best-selling novel.

The Barbacoa scene is truly memorable. No “mad

cow” scares back then. “And do those brains taste

sweet!”

Murphy’s Romance (1985). While Sally Field and

JamesGarnerromancedeachotherasMurphyJones

and EmmaMoriarty, Kansas City’s RichDavis of KC

Masterpiece Barbecue Sauce fame supervised the

open-pitbarbecueofasteeratEmma’sranch.Notice

abottleofKCMasterpieceonMurphy’skitchentable?

This is an early example of the pre-E.T. product

placement marketing so common in today’s movies

andTVshows.

Top Gun (1986). Filmed on location in San Diego’s

Kansas City Barbeque restaurant. The joint,

autographed bras, and other memorabilia, burned

down on June 26, 2008, due to a pit fire. Like a

phoenix,anewjointhasemergedfromtheashes,just

likeoldtimes.

FriedGreenTomatoes(1991).BasedonFannieFlagg’s

best-selling novelFriedGreenTomatoes at theWhistle

StopCafé, thismovie is theSweeneyToddofcinema

’cuethankstosomeAlabamabarbecuethatyou’llsee

onthescreen.

WalktheLine(2005).IsthatBozo’sHotPitBar-B-QinMason,Tennessee,whereJoaquin

PhoenixandReeseWitherspoon—asJohnnyCashandJuneCarter—aresitting?Yes!

Dancer, Texas – Pop. 81 (1998). A bottle of Bone

Suckin’ Sauceappearson thedining room table ina

trailer home.We know it isn’t a product placement

marketingdeal.WeaskedSandiFordatFordFoods,

home of Bone Suckin’ Sauce, and she didn’t know

aboutthemovie.Shewashappytoknowhersauceis

inthemovie,however.

Primary Colors (1998). Politicking and barbecue are

naturals in this story about a former governor of

Arkansas, playedby JohnTravolta, in a race for the

WhiteHouse.

The Cookout (2004). Unexpected wildness and

confusion occur when Storm P as Todd Anderson

hosts a cookout to celebrate a $30 million contract

withtheNewJerseyNets.TheDVDincludesaspecial

feature on how to have a good cookout, plus some

goodrecipesfromthecast.

BaptistsatOurBarbecue(2004).Thiscomedyisabout

anattempttobringpeacetoadividedcommunityby

throwingabarbecuewitheveryoneinvited.

CAST-IRONSKILLETCORNBREADMakes8wedges

¼cupbacondrippingsorbutter

2cupsfinestone-groundwhitecornmeal

1teaspoonsalt

½teaspoonbakingsoda

½teaspoonbakingpowder

1largeegg

1½cupsbuttermilk

Preheat the oven to 450°F. Place the drippings in a 10-inch cast-

P

iron skillet and pop the skillet into the oven to heat. In the

meantime, combine the cornmeal, salt, baking soda, and baking

powderinalargebowl.Inasmallbowl,beattogethertheeggand

buttermilk. Add the buttermilk mixture to the cornmeal mixture

andstir,usingtheabsoluteminimumnumberofstrokesneededto

moistenthedryingredients.

Remove the hot skillet from the oven and swirl it around so the

drippingscoatthebottomandlowersidesoftheskillet.Thenpour

theremainderofthehotdrippingsorbutterintothebatterandstir

acoupleoftimes.Turnthebatterintothehotskillet,placebackin

the oven, and bake until it is golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes.

Removefromtheoven,cutinto8wedges,andservewarm.

CornBreadMuffins

BranksBBQ&Catering1370124thSt.EastSumner,WA98390253-891-1789

aul had the pleasure of visitingBranks barbecue at its originallocation, a nice small, homey barbecue joint in downtownSumner,Washington. It became very successful, and therewas

noway to expand, so itmoved to the industrial district. The decor iswhatyoumightcallcountrywithalotoflocalhistorythrownin,thingslike bucksaws and other old logging items. The staff is young andfriendly, thebarbecue iscooked in thepitwithwildcherrywood,andallofthesidesanddessertsaremadefromscratch.Featuredhereistherecipe for Branks’s great corn bread muffins. Paul is good for two or

threeeverytimeheeatsthere.

CORNBREADMUFFINSMakes12muffins

1cupyellowcornmeal

1cupall-purposeflour

to¼cupsugar

4teaspoonsbakingpowder

½teaspoonseasalt

1to1¼cupsbuttermilk

1largeegg,atroomtemperature

11tablespoonsbutter,meltedandcooled

Preheattheovento375°Fandplacearackinthemiddle.Butter12

regular ( -cup)

muffin cups. In a medium bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour,

sugar, baking powder, and salt, then sift themixture into a large

bowl.Inthenowemptymediumbowl,mixthebuttermilkandegg

togetherwithawirewhisk.Whisk in themeltedbutter.Pour the

buttermilk mixture into the cornmeal mixture and stir just until

incorporated. Do not overmix. Divide themix equally among the

preparedmuffincups.Bakeforabout15minutes,untilatoothpick

insertedinthecenterofamuffincomesoutclean.Themuffinswill

be a pale yellow. Cool on a rack for 10minutes. Servewith real

butter.

JalapeñoHushpuppies

RudyMikeska’sBar-B-Q300W.2ndSt.Taylor,TX76574800-962-5706or512-365-3722http://mikeska.com

Say“Mikeska”toanativeTexan,andthereplywillbe“barbecue.”The Mikeska barbecue legacy began in the late nineteenthcentury,whenapenniless family fromCzechoslovakiamovedto

Texastobuildabetterlife.Firsttherewasfarming,andthentherewasbarbecue—barbecueonamassivescalethroughseveralrestaurantsrunbyMikeskafamilymembersandthroughhugecateringeventsinTexas,the rest of theUnited States, and abroad. This continues todaywith athirdgenerationofMikeskas,anda fourthgeneration iswaiting in thewings.

We didn’t track down every restaurant in Texas run by a Mikeska,althoughwe’dliketodothatsomeday.Rather,wevisitedtherestaurant,or cafeteria as it is sometimes called, in Taylor, the original Mikeskafamily home base. We found the ribs and brisket to be downrightrespectable—tender and flavorful. We couldn’t resist the fried catfish,whichwasgoodenoughtomakeusplan tocomeback formorewhenwe’renotonabarbecuemission(assumingourliveseverstopbeingonebigbarbecuemission!).

We could tell that in addition to the good food, a reason for thephenomenalsuccessoftheMikeskabarbecueempireisfriendlyservice.Wefeltwelcomethere,althoughwewerestrangersanddidn’tmentionweweretheretoconsiderputtingMikeska’sBar-B-Qinthisbook.

Jalapeño Hushpuppies are a popular item on the Mikeska cateringmenu.Wegiveyouourversionhere.

JALAPEÑOHUSHPUPPIESServes6to8

2cupsyellowcornmeal

1cupall-purposeflour

teaspoonseasonedsalt

½teaspooncayenne

1teaspoonbakingpowder

1teaspoonbakingsoda

½cupchoppedscallions

1or2jalapeñopeppers

2largeeggs

1cupbuttermilk

2tablespoonsbacongrease

Canolaoilorlard,fordeep-frying

In a large bowl,mix the cornmeal, flour, seasoned salt, cayenne,

bakingpowder,andbakingsodauntilcombined.Addthescallions

andjalapeñopeppersandstirtocombine.Addtheeggs,buttermilk,

and bacon grease. Stir it all up until the flavors are thoroughly

blended.

Heatthefryingoilinadeep-fryerto350°F(oruseadeeppotand

measure the oil temperature with a deep-frying thermometer).

Whenit’shot,useatablespoontodropyourhushpuppiesin.Allow

them to brown on all sides. Theywill begin floatingwhen done,

after5to7minutes.Becarefulnottoovercookthem.

RoastedGarlicChileMoritaBBQSauce

Josh’sBarbecue3486ZafaranoDr.SantaFe,NM87507

W505-474-6466http://www.joshsbbq.com

eweresaddenedwhenArdie’s friendElaineAntondecidedtoshutterherfantasticSantaFebarbecuejoint,R&B.Wouldanyoneelse fill thegapElainewas leavingwhen thecoals

went cold in her Southern Yankee? Would anyone else turn out theflavorful,inventivedisheswithaSantaFeaccentthatR&B’swasknownfor? To our delight, such a placewas discovered for us by one of ourfavoritemysterywriters,N.M.Kelby,authorofWhaleSeasonandMurderattheBadGirl’sBarandGrill—andaBBQgoddessaswell.Whileshewasin Santa Fe as artist-in-residence at the Santa Fe Art Institute, ArdieaskedhertoseeifSantaFehadanygoodbarbecuetoofferbeyondchainor franchise venues. To our delight, she discovered Josh’s! N.M. waskind enough to offer this report, which is followed by a recipe forRoastedGarlicChileMoritaBBQSaucethatJoshgaveus.N.M.Kelby’sbackgroundinjournalismandfoodwritingshinesthroughinthispiece.We’reproudtoshareherreviewwithyou,andwethankher!

The things people do for love are truly amazing. Josh Baum leftbehindtheworldofhautecuisine,workinginFranceatMichelinthree-star restaurants, to come to Santa Fe, and eventually he opened up abarbecuejointwithabigcowboybootonitssign.Andhediditforlove,butnotjustloveofbarbecue—itwasfortheloveofhiswife.

Josh had alwayswanted to open his own restaurant, andwhen theopportunityarosehechosebarbecuebecausethepaceappealedtohim.It was muchmore low key than working in the frantic world of finedining.Josh’suncleownsSteve’sRibandSportsGrillinOklahomaCity,Oklahoma.“Iusedtowatchmyuncleathisplace,anditwasjustgreat.He’dcookeverythinginthemorningandthenrelax,”Joshsays.“Ireallywanted to spendmore timewithmywife.” So, Josh’sBarbecue, “Let’smeatattheboot,”wasborn.

Even though his work in France is far behind, the haute-cuisinesensibility is not. There is not a single item at Josh’s that is boughtpremade. Everything is made from scratch using the finest seasonal

ingredientsandhormone-freemeats.Thefareismostlytraditional,withdryribs,pulledpork,brisket,andbarbecuedchickenwings.There’salsoturkey marinated in red chile, orange juice, and butter—then coatedwithamildchilerub.It’sdifficulttogowronghere.Allarestandoutsintheir own right. Josh smokeswith a traditional Ole Hickory Pit usingTexasoak, anywhere from5 to30hours, dependingon themeat, andtheresultsaresublime.

Even the sides areworth driving for. The coleslawhas a nice hit ofmustard,ricewinevinegar,andgreenchile.TheJalapeñoCornBreadiscakelikeandmoresweetthanhot.Infact,mostthingsatJosh’sarejusthot enough; they won’t make you sweat. But, for the chile heads, heoffers an addictive Jalapeño Cucumber Relish made with shreddedcarrot,pickles,cucumbers,jalapeños,ricevinegar,andbrownsugar.It’ssolovely,andsohot,youwillweep.

ROASTED GARLIC CHILE MORITA BBQSAUCEMakes4cups

1smallyellowonion,chopped

2tablespoonscanolaoil

4morita chiles or chipotles in adobo,minced or

diced

12clovesroastedgarlic

cupapplecidervinegar

2½cupschickenstock

1(14½-ounce)candicedtomatoes,drained

1½cupsketchup

½cupThaisweetchilesauce

¼cupmolasses

½cuppackedbrownsugar

2tablespoonsfreshorangejuice

2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice

Saltandblackpepper

Sauté the onion in the canola oil in a medium

saucepanovermediumheatuntilsoft,5to7minutes.

Addthechilesandroastedgarlicandtoastlightlyfor

3 to 4minutes. Add the vinegar and cook until the

mixtureisreducedbyhalf,15to20minutes.

Add the stock, the canned tomatoes, the ketchup,

chilesauce,molasses,brownsugar,orangejuice,and

lemonjuice.Bringtoaboil;thenlowertheheatand

simmerfor30minutes.Removethepanfromtheheat

andsetitasidetocool.Oncethemixturehascooled,

puree it in a blender and pass it through a fine

strainer. Season with salt and pepper to taste and

serve.Goesgreatonpoultry!

ROASTEDGARLIC2headsgarlic

1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil

Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Preheattheovento325°F.Lineasmallbakingdishwithaluminum

foil. Cut the top quarter from each head of garlic and place the

garliccutsideupontheprepareddish.Drizzlewithoilandseason

lightly with salt and pepper. Turn the garlic cut side down, and

roast until the cloves are soft and golden brown, about 1 hour.

Remove from the oven and let sit until cool enough to handle.

Squeezethegarlicfromtheskinsanddiscardtheskins.Thismakes

morethanyou’llneedforJosh’srecipe,butyoucanstoreit inan

airtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforuptoaweekanduseitina

varietyofdishes.

Tomakeagarlicpaste:Whencoolenoughtohandleeasily,putthe

roastedgarlicintoasmallbowl,mashwithafork,andaddoilfrom

thepanuntilapasteforms.Thepastemakesgreatgarlicbread!

The Santa Fe location puts a regional spin on traditional barbecueofferings.“Ireallywanttocookbarbecueforthelocals,”Joshsays.So,notonlydoesheserveatoothsomebrisket,smokedfor18hoursandasmoistandtenderasI’veeverhad,butheoffersalocalvariation,GreenChileBrisket, inwhichheresmokesthebasicbrisketwithHatchchilesfor a grand total of 30 hours. The result is as complex as any Frenchsauce.Thechilesandbrisketbecomeanamazinglycomplexcombinationofsmoke,sweetness,andheat.Goodeats.Oneofthebig“musthaves”here is the chips and homemadequesowith the green chile brisket. Ifyoudon’tlikechips,youcanhavethempouritoveraspud.

Nearlyallthemeatsareserveddry(somedohaveabrushofglaze),soJoshoffersthreesauceseveryday.Thisiswherehischef’strainingtrulyshows.The“traditional”sauceisanythingbut.Loadedwithflavor,someheat,andonlyaslighthintofsmoke,itsbaseisThaisweetchilisauce.The hot version is just that—the same great sauce turned up a notch.Neitheriscooked,mostlybecausehehasnoroominback,butthat’sagreatdecision.Thesaucesarefreshtasting,andeachflavorismarriedtothe other in the French style—which is to say that there is no onedominant taste or overwhelming heat—they are just dang fine saucesand a perfect complement to themoist, smokymeat. The third saucechanges every so often and is usually fruit-based. The one I triedwasblackberryandbourbonwithahintofhoisin.

Like any good culinary school graduate, Josh believes in specials.During theweek he likes to featuremeats that are not on the regularmenu,includinglambwithajerkrub,beefribs,andSt.Louis-styleribs.When I was there, the special was baby backswith a red chile glaze.Right ashe finishes cooking the ribs,hebrushes themwith the sweet,hotpasteand then servesabowlof it on the side.Totallyaddictive. Ifoundmyselfpouringtheglazeallovermybakedpotato.

Don’t forget dessert. Every day there’s a new cobbler, but I had thewhite chocolate banana pudding. It was cool and sweet, but not toosweet.Itwastheperfectfoilforperfectbarbecue.

Forthearea,pricesarereasonable.Theyalsoofferfamilymealstogo.

J

KeepinmindthatwhenJoshrunsoutoffood,herunsoutoffood.It’sjustthatkindofplace.

GoodeCompanyBBQBeefRub

GoodeCompanyBarbeque5015KirbyHouston,TX77098800-627-3502or713-643-5263http://www.goodecompany.com

im Goode, pitmaster at Goode Company Barbeque in Houston,Texas,startedthecompanyin1977.TodaytherearefourGoodeCompany restaurants, plus a mail-order business called the

BarbequeHallofFlame.Cookingtools,barbecueproducts,books,pies,andothergreatproductscanbeorderedfromtheHallofFlameonlineorwithaphonecall.

To our good friend and barbecue buddy the late Brian Heinecke, astopattheoriginalGoodeCompanytodineandtovisitwithJimwasafavoritehighlightofanytriptoTexas.Wecan’tthinkofGoodeCompanywithoutrememberingBrian.

ThewallsofGoodeCompanyarefullofcowboymemorabilia,photos,andtaxidermy.Customerslineupandordercafeteriastyleandthenfindaplace todineatoneof themany longpicnic tables. It’soneof thosemany barbecue places where the enjoyment of the barbecue bringspeoplefromallwalksoflifetogether,likeacommunitygathering.

Jim’s rub is great for beef, including ribs, roasts, and brisket, but italsoenrichesporkandlamb.ThankstoJim,here’stherecipe.

GOODECOMPANYBBQBEEFRUB

Makes cup

2½tablespoonspackeddarkbrownsugar

2tablespoonspaprika

2teaspoonsdrymustard

2teaspoonsonionpowder

2teaspoonsgarlicpowder

1½teaspoonsdriedbasil

1teaspoongroundbayleaves

teaspoongroundcoriander

teaspoongroundsavory

teaspoondriedthyme

teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

teaspoonwhitepepper

teaspoongroundcumin

Salt

Tomaketherub,combinealltheingredientsinasmallbowl.Store

themixtureinanairtightcontainerforupto6months.There’sno

needtorefrigerateit.

To use the rub, massage it into the meat thoroughly the night

before you plan to grill.Wrap themeatwell in plasticwrap and

place in therefrigeratoruntilgrilling timeso that the flavorswill

beabsorbedintothemeat.

W

ChampionshipRibRub&All-PurposeSeasoning

Johnny’sBarbecue5959BroadmoorMission,KS66202913-432-0777http://johnnysbbq.net

e’lltellyouupfrontthatJohnnyWhiteisalongtimefriend,weeatatJohnny’sonaregularbasis,andwewrotepartsofthisbookatJohnny’s.Thatsaid,Johnny’sisherebecauseit

belongshere.WeappreciatetheentireJohnny’steam,inparticularBrianWhite, Johnny’s brother;Mike “Bubba”Brouhard, Johnny’s brother-in-law;TerriBrouhard,Johnny’ssister;ShannonHammer,Johnny’sniece,whoalwaysgreetsuswithsmilesandwit;JasonOssanaandJanMonty,who try tokeepa lidonour rowdiness;andBradySchleicherandZakZimmerman.

Johnny has converted this former pizza place into a popular, busybarbecue joint.His sonEric runs another Johnny’s, that one inOlatheand of equal quality. Inside the original Johnny’s in Mission there’senoughsouthwesternartandartifactsonthewallstomakeyouwonderifyou’reinSantaFe.WhatwelikebestaboutthedecoristhehundredsofbottlesofbarbecuesauceondisplayfromalloverAmericaandafewothercountries.AfewyearsagoJohnnyaskedArdie,“Doyouhaveanybarbecuesaucesyou’dgivemetodisplayhere?”Ardie’swife,Gretchen,had been asking him, “When are you going to get rid of all thosebarbecue sauces in the basement?” It was a perfect barbecue saucestorm!Ardie toldJohnny,“I’llbringsauce.You tellmewhentostop.”Johnnymaynothavetheworld’s largestcollectionofbarbecuesauces,buthehasseveralhundred.

Johnny,likeaboutadozenothersuccessfulpitmastersinKansasCity,

learnedthebarbecuemethodofcookingandhowtorunabarbecuejointwhenheworkedatRosedaleBarbecuewiththefounder,AnthonyRieke.AlthoughtheRosedaleinfluenceisnoticeable,Johnnyhasdevelopedhisownoriginalstyleofbarbecue,andit’sawinningformula.Hisrubisagreat all-purpose rub for barbecuing. Here’s the recipe for you fromJohnny.

CHAMPIONSHIPRIBRUB&ALL-PURPOSESEASONING

Makesabout6tablespoons

2tablespoonskoshersalt

1tablespooncoarseblackpepper

1tablespoonpaprika

1teaspoonsugar

W

1teaspoonwholeceleryseeds

1teaspooncayenne

1teaspoondriedoregano

1teaspoongarlicsalt

1teaspoonchilipowder

½teaspoongroundcumin

Combine all the ingredients in a tightly sealed clear plastic food

storage bag, shaking until blended. If not using the rub

immediately, you can store it in a cool, dark place for up to 6

months.

Applytherubtoribsandrefrigerate,covered,for4to6hoursfor

thebestresultsbeforecookingasdesired.

FriedOkra

Perry’sOriginalRoadsideBBQ2920BenevaRd.Sarasota,FL34232941-724-1702http://www.perryssauce.com

e’re not bona fide snowbirds that head south to Floridaannually when winter arrives. We did venture south lastwinter, however, in search of sun, surf, seafood, and

barbecue. We heard there was a man named Perry in Sarasota whocooksoutstandingbarbecue.Eagertofindout,wecheckedtheschedulepostedonhisWebsiteandfoundPerryonaSundayafternoononSiesta

KeyinfrontofTheOldSaltyDog.Therehewas,atafoldingtableunderaportable tent,wrappinga largeorderofbrisket, ribs, andchicken inaluminumfoilforaNewYorkCitycustomerreadytoflyhome.Whenitwas our turn to order, everything was sold out except a portion ofbrisket.Wetookit,Perryslicedit,anditwastrulygreat—moist,tender,and flavorful. Other customers have raved about Perry’s chicken andribs,andwe’llbebackforthat,butonthemeritsofhisbrisketalonewecantellPerryknowshiswayaroundthebarbecuepit.

Washington Perry has been barbecuing for almost 40 years. Helearned the basics from his uncle and mother during his growing-upyearsinDawson,Georgia.

“I learnedhow to barbecue the old-fashionedway—out backwith a55-gallon drum and awhole hog,” he told us. Perry’s longtime dreamwastocookandservethebestbarbecuepossible.Hismanyenthusiasticfansagreethathehasachievedthatdream.Perryisgladhisbarbecueisreceivedsowell,buthedoesn’t restonhis laurels.Likeallof thebestbarbecuepitmastersweknow,Perryhasn’tstoppedlearning.“Therearealwaysnewideascomingup,”hesaid.“Myuncletoldme,‘Idon’tcarewhatyoudo in life—cookingorwhatever—yourchiefoccupation is toalwaysbeastudent.’”

Perryalsoemphasizedthathismother,AlicePerry,“waseverythingtomy success.” During the Perry family’s early years in Sarasota, Aliceopened a café called Alice’s Soul Food. All of the items on Perry’scateringmenutodayarefromAlice’soriginalrecipes.“Shewastheonetoteachushowtodoallthat,”saidPerry.

Perry’sOriginalRoadsideBBQissonamed“becausethat’swhereitallstarted—sellingbarbecueontheroadside,”hesaid.Hehasakitchenforpreparingcateredmealsandwillcookwholehogforspecialoccasions,but when he’s on the road at scheduled locations in Sarasota, thecustomerswant spareribs, brisket, and chicken. “There’s notmuch callforwholehog,”hesaid.

Perryuseshisownoriginalrecipesforrubandsauce.Hisrubisamixofgranulatedgarlic,seasonedsalt,blackpepper,OldBaySeasoning,and½teaspoongroundcinnamon.“Thecinnamongives themeatanappleflavor, like it’s been cooked with apple wood,” Perry said. Perry’sOriginal Roadside BBQ Sauce is made with tomato ketchup, mustard,vinegar, molasses, peppers, sugar, spices, “and LOTS OF LOVE!” Hissmokeofchoiceisamixofliveoakandpecan,withcharcoalbriquettesto help keep the fire going. “I use no propane at all,” he told us.Barbecue“isverysimple,”hesaid,“butyoumusthavealotofloveforit.” Perry is mentoring his daughter, Lakesha, who definitely has thatlove.ShehastakenontheroleofmarketingPerry’ssauce.Welikethebold flavor of Perry’s sauce. Pepper, vinegar, a hint of sweetness, andsome secret spicesmake it a solid complement tobarbecuedorgrilledmeat. Contact Perry or Lakesha to order a bottle or a case. Werecommendacase,becauseafteryoutryityou’llwanttoshareitwithfriends and keep a supply in the cupboard so youwon’t run out. “Wehave a lot of fun,” Perry told us. Commitment to excellence, lifelonglearning,lotsoflove,andalotoffunisPerry’swinningformulaforlifeandbarbecue.Wethinkhe’sontosomething!

ReadingPerry’scateringmenucouldinspireatriptoSarasotatobookanOriginalRoadsidecateringevent.Besidesbarbecuedpulledpork,beefbrisket,ribs,andchicken,yourchoiceofsidesisbakedbeans,macandcheese, collard greens, Brunswick stew, coleslaw, potato salad, friedgreentomatoes,friedokra,orcornbread.Wedidn’tgetAlice’soriginalrecipeforfriedokra,butthisisagoodone.

FRIEDOKRAServes6to8

Vegetableoil,fordeep-frying

1½poundswholefreshokra

1cupself-risingcornmeal

½cupall-purposeflour

1teaspoonsalt

½teaspoonblackpepper

Preheat a deep-fryer with vegetable oil to 375°F. If

youdon’thaveadeep-fryer,youcanuseaskilletover

medium-highheat. Justbe sure touseenoughoil to

covertheokra.

Wash the okra under cold running water and drain

well.Prepare theokra forcookingbycuttingoff the

tipandstemends.Cuttheremainingokrainto½-inch

slices. Set the cut okra aside while you prepare the

cornmealcoating.

Combine the cornmeal, flour, salt, and black pepper

in a brown paper bag or a resealable plastic bag.

Shakethemixturewell.

Drop theokra into thebagandshakewell tocoat it

uniformly.Droptheokra into thedeep-fryerwithout

crowding and fry until the okra turns golden brown

andfloatstothetopfor6to8minutes.Ifyou’reusing

askillet,oncetheokrabegins tobrownononeside,

turn it over and brown on the other side for 3 to 4

minutestotal.Oncetheokraisdone,removeit from

theoilanddrainitonpapertowels.Servewarm.

Desserts

It isn’t easy to save room for dessert when you’reeating great barbecue. That’swhymany joints don’t

serve dessert. Some do, however, and the ones we

giveyouhere areworthyour restraint in the earlier

coursesof themeal.Frombananacreampie to fried

peach pie, turtle cheesecake, apple dumplings,

homemade vanilla ice cream, and more, they look

good, taste good, andwill bring you back formore.

Dessertsneedn’tcomplementthemenu.Theyareina

categoryalltheirown.

ApplePie

BoneyardGrill

TBoneyardGrill617S.DivisionSt.Guthrie,OK73044405-293-9615

he City of Guthrie, Oklahoma, has marked a couple of majormilestones in the month of April—one territorial, the otherculinary. The Great Land Rush for 2 million acres of land in

Oklahoma Territory started at noon on April 22, 1899. Some 50,000individuals took part in the rush, seeking up to 160 acres apiece thatcouldbecometheirsthroughhomesteadingandimprovingtheproperty.President Benjamin Harrison was authorized by the U.S. Congress tomake the land available to settlers. On that day in April, Guthrieblossomedfromuninhabitedprairietoacityof10,000inonly6hours.

The great culinarymilestone inGuthrie happened onApril 6, 2007,whenRalphMannandWayneMachtolffopened theBoneyardGrillonSouthDivisionStreet.

As a rule we wouldn’t highlight a joint this new, but we liked theBoneyardGrillsomuchthatwebelieveBoneyardhasawinningformulaforsuccess:ambience,quality food,andreasonableprices.Thetwoco-ownershaveenoughpriorexperienceaschefs inotherrestaurants thatwe’re confidentBoneyardwill grow in reputationandnumberof loyalcustomers.Thegrilledsteaksweretempting,butwewereonabarbecuemission,sowehadribs,beans,fries,andapplepie.TheBoneyardnamewas inspired by rib bones from a rib-eating and beer-drinking sessionwithfriendsofRalphandWayne.Theribsweresogoodthatwepickedthebonesclean.

FromtheoutsideBoneyardlookstouslikeaformercountrystoreorgasstation. Inside it feelsand looks likeanoldcomfyhome, furnishedwithtables,chairs,andothertouchesthatcouldgobacktoOklahoma’sterritorial days. Although it seems small, there’s enough seating for atleast70.RapportwithRalphandWaynewaseasy,anditwasapparentthattheyarededicatedandtalentedchefsandpitmasters.

We asked for a recipe, and they gladly obliged with the officialBoneyardGrillApplePie—theoriginalrecipefromRalph’sgrandmother,OmaSczksczeika.

APPLEPIEServes6to8

4GrannySmithapples,peeledandthinlysliced

¼cupwhitecanesugar

¼cuppackedlightbrownsugar

¼cupdairysourcream

1½teaspoonsgroundcinnamon

1teaspoongroundallspice

1teaspoongroundnutmeg

4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,melted

1(9-inch)pieshell

1cupall-purposeflour

8tablespoons(1stick)unsaltedbutter,softened

Preheattheovento350°Fandplacearackinthemiddle.Inalarge

bowl, combine the apples, white and brown sugar, sour cream,

H

cinnamon,allspice,nutmeg,andmeltedbutterandgentlymixthe

ingredientstogether,beingcarefulnottobreakuptheapples.Pour

thefillingintothepieshellandspreadevenly.

Inamediumbowl,combinetheflourandsoftenedbutterandblend

with a fork until crumbly. Spread the crumbles evenly over the

fillingandbakefor1½hours,turningthepiearoundafterthefirst

45minutesforevencooking.Thetoppingshouldbebrown,andthe

fillingshouldbebubbling.Removethepiefromtheovenandcool

slightlybeforecuttingintowedges.

AppleCrisp

HoleintheWallBarbecue3200W.11thAve.Eugene,OR97401541-683-7378http://www.holeinthewallbbq.com

ole in the Wall Barbecue is a perfect example of how thecravinganddesireforgoodbarbecuecanmovemountains.In1992, Richard and Linda Becker returned from Arizona to

Oregon, where they grew up. “To satisfy our barbecue cravings, wedecidedtoopenourownrestaurant,”theytoldus.Andtheirliveswerechangedforever.

HoleintheWallBarbecuefirstopenedAugust2,1993,forlunchonlyonweekdays,from11:00A.M.to2:00P.M.,andonFridaysandSaturdaysuntil 8:00 P.M. The menu was limited, with three sandwiches, chili,barbecuebeans,potatosalad,andcoleslaw—allmadefromscratch.Withtheirever-growingbarbecueandcateringbusiness they“bit thebullet”

and expanded their hours to 8:00 P.M. Tuesday through Saturday. TheyalsoaddedSt.Louis-styleribs,barbecuechicken,hotlinks,frenchfries,andsweettea,aswellasotherseasonalitems.

Hole in the Wall’s reputation has spread far and wide. Paul hasenjoyed eating their award-winning barbecue since 1994, when theywere only 8 months old. Their outstanding brisket sandwich andbarbecue ribs are his favorites, and their award-winning chili is alsoworth the trip. One of their signature desserts is apple crisp, and aseverythingelseatHoleintheWall,it’smadefromscratch.

APPLECRISPServes8to10

FILLING

¾cupwhitecanesugar

2teaspoonsgroundcinnamon

3poundsapples,peeled,cored,andsliced

TOPPING

cup packed light brown sugar cup all-purpose flour½

teaspoonbakingpowder

¼teaspoonbakingsoda

6tablespoonsbutter,frozen

½cupquickoats

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Combine the granulated sugar and

cinnamoninalargebowlandblendwell.Addtheapplesandtoss

untiltheapplesarewellcoated.

Mix the brown sugar, flour, baking powder, and soda and blend

R

well.Usingametalscraperbladeorpastryknife,cutthebutterinto

theflourmixtureuntil it reaches theconsistencyofpeas.Addthe

quickoatsandmixwell.

Spray a 9-inch square baking pan with nonstick spray. Add the

apple mixture and spread the oat topping evenly over the top.

Bake, uncovered, for 20 minutes, rotate the pan, and bake for

another 20 minutes, until the topping is golden brown and the

applefillingisbubbling.

AppleDumplings

Rooster’sBar-B-Q2001CappsRd.Harrison,AR72601870-741-5888http://www.roostersbar-b-q.com/index.html

ooster’s doesn’t just make good brown beans (see page 138).Oneofitssignaturedessertsisappledumplings,whicharegreatservedtoppedwithcreamor icecream.Here isourversionof

theirtrade-secretdumpling.

APPLEDUMPLINGSMakesabout1dozen

2to2½cupsall-purposeflour

2teaspoonsbakingpowder

1teaspoonseasalt

¾cupshortening

½cupwholemilk

4 to 6 Granny Smith or other cooking apples, peeled, cored,

andsliced

About½cupsugar,forsprinklingontheapples

Groundcinnamon

Groundnutmeg

8tablespoons(1stick)butter,cutintosmallpieces

SYRUP

2cupssugar

¼teaspoongroundcinnamon

¼teaspoongroundnutmeg

2cupshotwater

4tablespoons(½stick)butterormargarine,melted

Heavycreamoricecream,forserving(optional)

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly grease a 9 by 13-inch baking

dishora12-muffintin.

Combine the flour,bakingpowder, and salt inabowl.Cut in the

shorteninguntilthemixtureresemblescoarsemeal.Graduallyadd

themilk,stirringtomakeasoftdough.Rollthedoughintoan -

inch-thickrectangleonalightlyflouredsurface;cutit intotwelve

5-inchsquares.

Place3or4slicesofappleoneachsquare.Sprinkleeachdumpling

A

with2 teaspoonssugaranda sprinklingofcinnamonandnutmeg

totaste;dotwithbutter.Moistentheedgesofeachdumplingwith

water;bring thecorners to thecenter,pinching theedges to seal.

Placethedumplings1inchapartinthepreparedbakingdish.

To make the syrup, combine the sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, hot

water,andbutterormargarine;stirtodissolvethesugar.Pourthe

syrupover thedumplingsandbake for35to45minutes,oruntil

goldenbrown.Servehotwithcreamoricecream.

PeachCobbler

Allen&Son6203MillhouseRd.ChapelHill,NC27516919-942-7576

fteralong-awaitedvisittotheGingerYoungArtGallery,wheretheyaddedacoupleoftreasurestotheiroutsiderartcollection,Ardie andhiswife,Gretchen, toldGinger that their next stop

was Allen & Son for lunch. Ginger said, “Oh, yes! That’s one of ourfavoriteplaces.”SheassuredthemtheywereinforadeliciouslunchandaskedthemtogiveproprietorKeithAllenherhello.

Before eating lunch Ardie and Gretchen wanted to visit with Keith.“He’soutback”wastheanswer.Outbackisaworkingwoodpileofhugehickory logs in various states of preparation to become charcoal forcookingsomeofthebestbarbecuedporkshouldersintheworld.Alongrectangularbuildinghousesthepitsononeendandakitchen/preproomontheother.TherewasalsotheunmistakablechoppingsoundArdieandGretchenhadbecomeaccustomed to already, only twodays into theirNorthCarolinabarbecuetour.

ThemandoingthechoppingwasKeithAllen,thesoninAllen&Son.Tall,rugged,handsome,andstrongasanox,Mr.AllengaveArdieandGretchen a friendly reception. This is a pitmaster with a passion forserving top-quality barbecue.How he does it isn’t easy. “People comehereandwanttolearnhowIdoit,”hesaid.“Buttheydon’tlastlong.”AfterafewdaysofgettingupatthecrackofdawnanddoingbarbecuetheKeithAllenway, theyburn out and leave.Doingbarbecue easternNorthCarolinastyleasKeithAllendoesitdemandsstrength,know-how,long hours, timemanagement, and serious dedication to excellence inbarbecue.Keithhasallofthat.Hereissomeofwhathegetsdoneinaday:Keepsasteadysupplyofhardwoodonhand

Keepsasteadysupplyofporkshouldersandotherkitchensuppliesformade-from-scratchsauce,sides,anddesserts

Keepsasteadysupplyofhotcoalsatthereadyforshovelingundertheshoulderseveryhalfhour

Sawsandchopswoodintopiecessmallenoughtofitintohischarcoalpit

Convertswoodintocharcoal

Schedulesandplanscateringjobs

Chopscookedshouldersforserving

Duringthe30-minuteperiodsbetweencoalshoveling,he’llbedoingavarietyoftaskssuchasmakingcobblers,makinghomemadeicecream,preparingsauceorsides—allthatandmore.Yet,ifyoucatchhimatthe

righttime,heiswillingtovisitwithstrangersandanswerquestions.

Allen&Sonhasafriendlyhomestylefeeltoit.Nothingfancy.Amixof tables and chairs perhaps recruited from yard sales, flea markets,friends, and neighbors. The cinder-block walls are a green colorreminiscentofStarnesinPaducah,Kentucky.Pigstuffandafewphotosadorn the walls. Brunswick stew, chopped pork, coleslaw, fries,hushpuppies, and iced tea,withpeachcobbler toppedwithhomemadevanilla ice cream, made one of the best barbecue feasts Ardie andGretchen had enjoyed over the years. Just a touch of the homemadevinegar-based sauce with melted butter, pepper, and other spices is adeliciouscomplementtothesweet,smokypork.Thefriesaren’tstifflikefast-foodfries,buttheyaredelicious.Keithtoldusthebasicsofhowhemakesthecobblers,andwe’resharingourownsimilarversionhere.OurhatsareofftoKeithAllen.HedoesNorthCarolinaproud.

PEACHCOBBLERServes6

8tablespoons(1stick)butter

2cupssugar

1teaspoongroundcinnamon

1cupall-purposeflour

½teaspoonsalt

1tablespoonbakingpowder

1cupmilk

3generouscupspeeledandslicedpeaches,withtheirjuices

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the butter in a 9 by 13-inch

bakingdishandplace thedish in thepreheatingoven. Ina small

bowl,combine½cupofthesugarwiththecinnamonandmixwell.

Setaside.Inamediumbowl,sifttogethertheflour,theremaining

1½cupssugar,thesalt,andthebakingpowder.Blendinthemilk,

stirringjustuntilthemixtureformsabatter.Whenthebutterinthe

bakingdishhasmelted, remove thedish from theovenandpour

thebatter into it.Spoonthepeachesandtheir juiceontopof the

batterandsprinklewiththereservedsugarandcinnamonmixture.

Bake for35to45minutes,until thepeachesarebubbling.As the

cobblerbakes,thebatterwillriseuparoundthepeaches.Remove

from the oven and allow to cool for about 20 minutes before

serving.

FriedPies

A&RBar-B-Que1802ElvisPresleyBlvd.

TMemphis,TN38106901-774-7444http://www.aandrbbq.com

here are twootherA&R location inMemphis, but our favoritehasalwaysbeenonElvisPresleyBoulevard.Thefirstfourtimeswe ate there, we were so full from the heavenly chopped

barbecueporksandwichestoppedwithcoleslawthattherewasnoroomfordessert.Latelywe’vesavedroomforthehomemadecrescent-shapedfriedpies,andthey’resogoodwenowmakeitaregularpracticetosaveroomforfriedpie.Sometimeswegetitforcarryoutforlaterenjoyment,butwe don’t leave A&Rwithout one unless they’re sold out. Like therestaurant, there’s nothing fancy about these pies, but the flaky friedpiecrustenvelopingafillingofyourchoice—peach,apple,sweetpotato—isatreatnottobemissed.

To our knowledge no one has explained why fried pies settled inTennessee and Arkansas barbecue houses. True, you’ll find them innonbarbecue houses elsewhere, including mass-produced versions atfast-food places, but the true southern fried pie is best enjoyed inTennessee and Arkansas. Some of the finest we’ve had are at A&R inMemphis.

FRIEDPEACHPIES

Makes10to12

2¼cupsall-purposeflour

1teaspoonsalt

½cupshorteningorlard

½cupmilk

1(21-ounce)canpeachpiefilling

1cupvegetableoilorshortening,forfrying

Tomakethecrust:Inalargebowl,mixtogethertheflourandsalt.

Cutintheshorteninguntilthemixtureiscrumbly.Mixinthemilk

andstiruntilthedoughformsaball.Rolloutthedoughandcutit

intotentotwelve6-inchcircles.Setaside.

Puttheoilorshorteninginasmall,deepskilletovermediumheat

(350°Fifusingathermometer).Spoonequalamountsoffillinginto

each pastry circle and fold in half. Seal the pastry with a fork

dippedincoldwater.

Fry thepiesoneata time in thehotoil,browning themonboth

sides,7to10minutes.Drainthepiesonpapertowels.

Note:Usefreshoilorshorteningforfrying.Otherwise,flavorsfrompreviouslyfriedfish,onionrings,orfrieswill

beabsorbedinyourpiecrust.

RootBeerCake

Joe’sRealB-B-Q301N.GilbertRd.

TGilbert,AZ85234480-503-3805http://www.joesrealbbq.com/

he Joe behind this joint is Joe Johnston.More than a decadeago, he took several tours of Texas in search of authenticbarbecueand learnedhowtoproduce it fromarestaurant.Joe

told Tim Peelen, his business partner from a successful coffee shopventure, that he dreamed of bringing real Texas-style barbecue to hishometown. Tim liked that dream, joined Joe as co-owner, brought hisbrother,TadPeelen,inasapartner,andJoe’sRealB-B-Qwasborn.

ThebrickbuildingthathousesJoe’scouldeasilyfitinanyofthesmallTexastownsJoevisitedonhisbarbecueresearchtours.LikemanyTexasjoints,the1929structurewasoriginallyagrocerystore.Inside,alargemuraldepictsthearea’sagriculturalhistory.Arestored1948JohnDeeretractorcomplementstheagriculturaltheme.

ThebarbecueispureTexasandhasattractedalargefollowingintheGilbertareaandbeyond.Werecommendstartingwiththesamplerplateof ribs,chicken,beef,andpork,withasideofcheesypotatoesandpitbeans. You should alsomake sure to save room for the delicious rootbeer cake. Root beer aficionados take their beer seriously, and theywon’tbedisappointedwithJoe’sreal rootbeerontap.For thisrecipe,you can use your own favorite root beer. This recipe is for Jill Silva,award-winning food editor at the Kansas City Star and the mostdedicatedrootbeeraficionadoweknow,andeveryoneelsewhosharesherpassionforrootbeer.

ROOTBEERCAKEServes8to10

CAKE

4largeeggs

1(18.25-ounce)boxyellowcakemix

1(3.5-ounce)boxinstantvanillapudding

¾cuprootbeer

cupvegetableoil

GLAZE

1cupconfectioners’sugar

½cuprootbeer

Preheattheovento350°Fandplacearackinthemiddle.Greaseor

oilaBundtpan.Beattheeggsuntilthickandlightcolored.Addthe

cakemix,puddingmix,rootbeer,andoilandbeatfor10minutes.

PourintotheBundtpanandbakefor45to60minutes.Coolfor10

minutesandturnthecakeoutontoaplate.

Tomaketheglaze,combinetheconfectioners’sugarandrootbeer

in a saucepan and simmer until the sugar has melted, 2 to 3

minutes.

Pokeholes inthecakewithaforksothattheglazecansoakinto

thecake.Pourtheglazeoverthecake,thencoolandchillthecake.

Servewithwhipped topping if desired. It’s alsogoodwithDream

Whipmadeusingrootbeerinsteadofmilk.

LexingtonBananaPudding

Speedy’sBarbecue1317WinstonRd.

LLexington,NC27295336-248-2410or336-248-2092http://speedysbbqinc.com

exington is the pork barbecue capital ofAmerica tomany—butdon’tincludeMemphiansamongthem.Allbarbecueaficionados,however, agree that Lexington has earned a prominent spot on

America’s best barbecue map. Wayne Monk, the dean of Lexingtonbarbecue, deserves a great deal of credit for Lexington’s famous ’cue.Thankstothatfame,althoughWayne’sbarbecueisstillthehallmark,hehas some outstanding competition and Speedy’s is among them.Speedy’s,inourjudgment,isanecessarystoppingplaceforswinediningifyou’reanywherewithin100milesormoreofLexington.

You can tell by the look of the building and by the logo—a pig onskateswithatrayofbarbecue—thatSpeedy’shasahistoryasadrive-in.Today it’s a dine-in or carryout joint.Wood-paneledwalls, booths andtables, miscellaneous movie posters on the walls—it is by no meansfancy. The ambience, service, and food, however, are laudable. Thisfamilybusiness,ownedandoperatedbybrothersRoyandBoydDunn,puts the emphasis on what they call “the 3-Qs: Quality, Quantity &QuickService.”

Ourchoppedporksandwichwithcoleslaw,hushpuppies,andfrieswasoutstanding.Wegotregularchopped,unlikethedinersnexttous,whomade sure the server understood they wanted theirs chopped “extrafine.”That’showtheygotit,andjudgingfromtheirbodylanguage,theBoydbrothershadonceagainliveduptotheir3-Qsmotto.

Ifthebananapuddingishomemade,anditisoneofthebestwehadinNorthCarolina. That being said,we regret thatwe couldn’t get theexactrecipe.PaulcameupwithonethatissuretopleaseandremindsusofwhatwehadatSpeedy’s,plusmeringue.

LEXINGTONBANANAPUDDINGServes8

½cupplus6tablespoonswhitecanesugar

Pinchofsalt

3tablespoonsall-purposeflour

4 large eggs, 3 separated, the whites set aside at room

temperature

2cupswholemilk

40to50vanillawafers

3to4ripebananas

½teaspooncreamoftartar

Preheattheovento375°F.

Blend½cupofthesugarwiththesaltandflour.Addthewholeegg

and the 3 yolks and mix. Stir in the milk. Cook in the top of a

doubleboileroverboilingwater,stirring,withawirewhisk,until

thickened.Removefromtheheatandcool.

Ina1½-quartbakingdish,arrangealayerofwholevanillawafers,

alayerofslicedbananas,andalayerofcustard.Continue,making

3layersofeach.

Tomakethemeringue,puttheeggwhitesandcreamoftartarinto

a stainless-steel or copper bowl. Using a wire whisk, whip to

medium-softpeaks.Beatinthe6tablespoonssugarandcontinueto

beatuntil theeggwhitesareglossyandholda firmpeak.Spread

themeringueoverthebananamixture,beingsuretosealittothe

edgesofthebakingdish.

Transferthebakingdishtotheovenandbakeuntilthemeringueis

browned,10to12minutes.Chillandservecold.

BARBEFEUDS:JUSTICEANDTHEPITS

We like to think that barbecue bringsmore peopletogetherthanitpullsapart,butthat’snotalwaysthe

case. Barbecue is no stranger to civil and criminal

courts—more the former than the latter, thank

goodness. Here are a couple of notable civil cases

we’ve heard about: Bozo theClown suedBozo’sHot

PitBar-B-Qoverthename.Thecourtbattlelastedfor

several years, with Thomas Jefferson Williams,

nickname“Bozo,”ofBozo’sHotPitBar-B-Qemerging

as thewinner.He had the nickname and named his

barbecue joint after it in 1923, before Bozo the

Clown,a.k.a.LarryHarmon,camealongin1949.The

two Bozoswere in court again in 1982 in a dispute

over whether Bozo’s barbecue could trademark its

namenationally.Thecourtssaidyes.

Smokaroma vs. the United States of America. This

company in Boley, Oklahoma, manufactures a

barbecue cooker that is part pressure cooker/part

smoker. It doesn’t comply with the official U.S.

governmentdefinitionofbarbecue,andthefedswon’t

budge.

BananasFoster

W

BananasFoster

Danna’sBar-B-Que&BurgerShop963StateHighway165Branson,MO65737417-272-1945

ehesitatedwhenwesawthebigboldyellowsignatDanna’sthat says, “Best Burgers in Branson.” Could we trust thebarbecue in this place? Short answer: yes! Don’t worry

about the “burger” in Danna’s name or the burgers on the menus ofotherBransonbarbecuejoints.Inatownthatattractssomanytourists,ifyou don’t have America’s favorite fast food, you’ll lose customers.Burgers were on the menu at every barbecue joint we checked inBranson.Friedburgers,notsmokedorcharcoalgrilled.

Danna’s interior decor is what we call Ozark funky. Old-fashionedsigns,pigart,oldarcademachines,assortedwooden tablesandchairs,highceilings,andthebuzzofhappycustomersgivetheplaceawelcomefeel.

SaturdayisArdie’straditionaldayforalunchtimefriedburger.Itgoesbacktohischildhood,whenhismotherfriedburgerseverySaturdayforthe family lunch. He ordered a Danna burger as a side dish to ribs,pulledpork,chicken,beans,fries,andslaw.TheformerSplit-Tcharcoal-grilledburgerwithonionandmayoinOklahomaCityisstillArdie’sall-timefavorite,butDanna’sservedhimoneofthebestfriedburgershe’severeaten,excepttheoneshismotherserved,ofcourse.

Danna’s spareribs and pulled pork are winners on appearance,tenderness, and taste—easy to chew,not tooheavyon the smoke.Thechicken was our favorite—smoky, tender, juicy, and flavorful. If youhavetoturndownthefries,beans,andslawtosaveroomfordessert,doit. Although the apple dumpling and Kentucky bourbon pecan pie arememorable,treatyourselftobananasFosterfirst.

One might ask why a dessert as elegant as bananas Foster at abarbecue joint. That’s easy to answer. Any recipe using bananas is agreatcomplementtobarbecue.Bananapuddingistraditionallyservedatalmost every barbecue joint in theCarolinas, including Speedy’s (page170).Thenthere’sthefantasticbananacreampieatBigBobGibsoninDecatur,Alabama(page174).

This isn’t Danna’s secret recipe, but we think you’ll like it, and itmakesanimpressivetablesidepresentation.

BANANASFOSTERServes4

4tablespoons(½stick)butter

1cuppackedlightbrownsugar

½teaspoongroundcinnamon

¼cupbananaliqueur

4bananas,peeled,cutinhalflengthwise,andhalved

¼cupMyers’sdarkrum

4 scoops vanilla ice cream, homemade (page 179) or store-

bought

Combinethebutter,brownsugar,andcinnamoninaflambépanor

skillet.Placethepanoverlowheateitheronanalcoholburneror

ontopofthestoveandcook,stirring,untilthesugardissolves.

Stir in thebanana liqueurandthenplace thebananas in thepan.

Whenthebananasectionssoftenandbegintobrown,after3to4

minutes, carefully add the rum. Continue to cook the sauce until

therumishot;thentipthepanslightlytoignitetherum.

Whentheflamessubside,liftthebananasoutofthepanandplace

4 pieces over each portion of ice cream. Generously spoon the

warmsauceoverthetopoftheicecreamandserveimmediately.

BananaCreamPie

BigBobGibsonBar-B-Q2520DanvilleRd.,SouthwestDecatur,AL35603256-350-0404http://www.bigbobgibson.com

We’veknownandadmiredDonMcLemoreandChrisLillyandtheir families for years.Don, grandsonof the lateBigBobGibson,andChris,Don’sson-in-law,arewellknownonthe

barbecue competition circuit as well as in the barbecue restaurantindustry. Chris has produced and starred in a series of barbecueinstructional videos, as well as cohosting in a cable TV series. Don,Chris,theirspouses,andextendedfamilymakeyoufeellikefamilywhenyouentertheircontestcookingareaortheirrestaurants.

Big Bob Gibson’s Alabama white barbecue sauce has been famoussince 1925. In recent years Don and Chris have added some award-winning tomato-based sauces to the Big Bob Gibson lineup. Theirimpressive wins at Memphis in May, the American Royal, and othermajorcontestsgive thembragging rights thatare second tonone—buttheirhumilityandsouthernhospitalitytrumpanybravado.

YoucangettherecipeforBigBobGibson’sgrilledchickenbreastwithwhitesauce fromitsWebsite,andthewhitesaucerecipe ispostedonthe Food Network site, but we recommend the real sauce from therestaurant.Youcangetitbycallingororderingonline.Big Bob Gibson’s has a reputation for great barbecue and great pies.WheneverwegotoabarbecuecontestandweknowthatBigBobGibsonisentered,afterall thepleasantrieshavebeenexchangedandtherightopportunitypresentsitself,weaskCarolynandDonMcLemore,“Didyou

bringpies?”AndmostofthetimeCarolynwillsaywithasmile,“Why,yeswedid,andwewillbeservingsomeaboutseveno’clock.Pleasestopby.”Big Bob Gibson presents a real dilemma when you go to one of therestaurants. Do you save room for dessert and order less barbecue, orordertheusualamountofbarbecueandhopetohaveroomforasliceofthe fabulouspie?Believeus, this isarealproblem.Rather thanrepeatthechickenandsaucerecipes,wewantedtotreatyouwithafamousBigBobGibsonsignaturepie,butthat’satradesecrettobekeptwithinthefamily. When you can’t enjoy pie at a Big Bob Gibson restaurant orcookingcontest,weknowyou’lllikethisone.

BANANACREAMPIEServes8

PIECRUST

1¼cupsall-purposeflour

1teaspoonseasalt

1tablespoonsugar

3tablespoonsvegetableshorteningorlard,chilled

4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,cutinto¼-inchpieces

4to5tablespoonsicewater

CREAMFILLING

½cupsugar

¼cupcornstarch

¼teaspoonseasalt

5 large egg yolks, lightly beaten (reserve 4 whites for the

meringue)

2cupswholemilk

½cupevaporatedmilk

1to2teaspoonsvanillaextract

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter

2 medium firm-ripe bananas, sliced into ¼-inch- to ½-inch-

thickrounds

MERINGUETOPPING1tablespooncornstarch

¼teaspooncreamoftartar

½cupsuperfinesugar

4eggwhites,atroomtemperature

½teaspoonvanillaextract

To make the crust, process the flour, salt, and sugar in a food

processoruntilcombined.Addtheshorteningandprocessuntilthe

mixture has the texture of coarse sand, 10 to 12 seconds. Scatter

thebutterpiecesintotheflourandprocessuntilthemixtureispale

yellowandhasthetextureofcoarsecrumbs,withbutterpiecesno

larger than a small pea, ten to twelve 1-second pulses. Turn the

mixtureintoamediumbowl.

Sprinkle¼cupof the icewaterover themixture.Usinga rubber

spatula, fold the mixture a few times. Press down on the dough

with the spatula to see if the dough sticks together. Add 1more

tablespoon of ice water if needed and then fold and test again.

When the dough holds together, flatten the dough into a 4-inch

disk.Wrap inwaxed paper or plasticwrap and refrigerate for at

least1hourorovernight.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and let it come to room

temperature.Rollthedoughonalightlyflouredsurfaceorbetween

sheetsofplasticwraporparchmentpapertoa12-inchcircle.Roll

thedoughover the topof your rollingpin and transfer it to a9-

inchpieplate.Workthedoughdownthesidestothemiddleofthe

plate,gentlypressingitintothebottomofthepan.Trimtheedges

to extend about ½ inch beyond the edge of the pan. Fold that

excess½inchofdoughunderitself;pinchthedoughtofluteitor

usethetinesofaforktoflattenthedoughagainsttherimofthepie

plate.Refrigerateforaboutanhourtofirmupthedough.

Preheattheovento375°Fandplacearackinthecenter.Remove

thepieplatefromtherefrigerator.Placeadoubled12-inchsquare

ofaluminumfoiloverthedoughandpressdown.Fillthefoilwith

2cupsdriedbeansorceramicormetalpieweights.Bakefor25to

30minutes,oruntilthecrustisalightgoldencolorunderthefoil.

Carefullyremovetheweightsandfoilandcontinuebakinguntilthe

dough is lightbrown,7 to8minutes.Remove fromtheovenand

coolonawirerack.

Tomakethefilling,whiskthesugar,cornstarch,andsalttogether

in amedium saucepan. Add the egg yolks, then immediately but

gradually whisk in the milk and evaporated milk. Cook over

medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and

begins to simmer, 8 to 10 minutes. Cook for another minute,

stirringconstantly.Removethepanfromtheheatandwhiskinthe

vanillaandbutter.

Pour the filling intoaheatproofbowlandpressa sheetofplastic

wrapagainstthetopofthefillingtopreventaskinfromforming;

cool for20 to30minutes.Pourhalfof the filling into thecooled

bakedpiecrust.Topwiththebananaslicesandthentheremaining

filling. Place another piece of plasticwrap directly on the filling.

Refrigerateforatleast3to4hours,untilcompletelychilled.

Preheattheovento350°F.

Tomakethemeringue,mixthecornstarchwith cupwaterina

small saucepan; bring to a boil, whisking as it comes to a boil.

Continue whisking until the mixture becomes translucent, then

removefromtheheat.Inasmallbowl,mixthecreamoftartarand

sugar together. Place the egg whites and vanilla in a medium

stainless-steel or copper bowl and beat themuntil frothy. Beat in

the sugar mixture, 1 tablespoon at a time, until all of the sugar

mixture is incorporated and the whole mixture forms soft peaks.

Beatinthecornstarchmixture1tablespoonatatimeandcontinue

beatinguntilit’sincorporatedandstiffpeaksform.

Removethepiefromtherefrigeratorandremovetheplasticwrap.

Topwith themeringue, forming peaks. Place the pie in the oven

andbake for 12 to 14minutes, until themeringue is set and the

meringuebeginstoturngoldenbrown.Coolbeforeserving.

T

Deep-FriedOreos

RUB(RighteousUrbanBarbeque)208W.23rdSt.NewYork,NY10011212-524-4300http://www.rubbbq.net

here are times when you want and deserve pure decadence.What betterway to indulge yourself than Deep-FriedOreos atRUB? Paul first experienced the decadence of this chocolate

delight at a barbecue contest in New Holland, Pennsylvania, whilefilming a pilot episode at the opening of RUB Barbecue for CanadianFoodTV.Atthetime,PaulhadnodessertsplannedforRUB’smenu,andthiswas a realwinner, so he just had to try tomake them. They aredelicious!

This isn’t just our opinion. RUB has received some notoriety for itsDeep-Fried Oreos; according to Star magazine, theywere reportedly afavoriteofsupermodelGiselleBundchen.Whenyouaren’tinNewYorkand theurgehits you, thishomeversionwill come to the rescue.YoucansubstituteyourfavoritedrypancakemixfortheBisquick.Theyarebestwheneatenwarm.Ifyouwanttotryalighterversion,uselow-fatmilk,canolaoil,andreduced-fatOreos.

DEEP-FRIEDOREOSMakesabout45cookies

2cupswhitecakemixorBisquick

2largeeggs

1½cupsmilk

1tablespoonoil

Canolaoilorlard,fordeep-frying

1(18-ounce)packageOreocookies

Confectioners’sugar,forgarnish

Inamediumbowl,blendthecakemixorBisquick,eggs,milk,and

oiluntilitformsasmoothbatter.

Preheat your deep-fryer to about 375°F. You can also use a deep

skillet filled with enough oil to allow the cookies to float. Just

makesurethetemperatureis375°Fonadeep-fryingthermometer.

Dipthecookiesinthebatteruntiltotallycoatedandthenplacein

thehotoil.Thecookieswillfloat.Frythecookiesuntilthebottom

sidesarebrown.Keepaclosewatch,becauseittakesonlyashort

time to brown them. Turn the cookies over and brown the other

side. Remove the cookies, drain on a paper towel-lined plate,

sprinklewithconfectioners’sugar,andservewarm.

IceCream

Stamey’s2206HighPointRd.Greensboro,NC336-299-9888http://www.stameys.com

We’veheardsomuchgoodtalkaboutStamey’sBarbecuethatwe had to try it. And why not try it with friends inGreensboro who are barbecue experts and have eaten at

Stamey’s for years? David Bailey, editor for Delta’s Sky magazine andone of the most refreshing, entertaining, and informative barbecuebloggersofall(putTrueCueinyoursearchengine),said,“Let’smeetatthe Stamey’s across from the Coliseum.” We met him there, with hiswife,Anne, for amemorable feast of choppedpork, slaw, beans, fries,Brunswickstew,icedtea,andpeachcobblertoppedwithhomemadeicecream.

It’s no wonder the pit crew at Stamey’s has mastered the art ofhickory-smokedporkshoulderbarbecue.TheStameylegacygoesbacktowhen founder C. Warner Stamey lived in Lexington and learnedbarbecue from local experts SidWeaver and Jess Swicegoodwhen hewas in high school. By 1930 Warner was out of high school, hadreturnedtohishometownofShelby,andstartedsellingbarbecuethere.Greensboro became his chosen city in 1953, and Stamey’s has been acommunityfixtureeversince,nowwithtwolocations.

DavidBaileyhasagenuinegiftwithwords.WeaskedhimforaquoteaboutStamey’s.Here’swhathegaveus:“I’vebeeneatingStamey’ssincemydaddy first tookme to thebig cityofGreensboroandmymommagavemeaspitbathafterI’dmadeamessofmyselfandmySunday-go-to-meetingclothes.It’severybitasgoodtodayasitwaswaybackthen—consistent, clean, classic,witha sauce thatdemonstrates thata littlebitofketchup’snotabadthing.Ifyoudon’tthinktheyusehickory,justsniff the air, look at the woodpile out back, and get your taste budscheckedbyyourdoctor.”

Wecouldn’tgetanoriginalStamey’srecipe,butthisrecipehasserveduswell,andyou’llknowwhywhenyoutryit.

ICECREAMMakesabout6cups

4largeeggs

2cupssugar

1(14-ounce)cansweetenedcondensedmilk

1(10½-ounce)canevaporatedmilk

¼teaspoonsalt

2tablespoonsvanillaextract

Milk,2%orwhole,ifdesired

Beattheeggswellinalargebowl.Addthesugar,condensedmilk,

evaporatedmilk, salt, andvanilla, beatingwell. Pour themixture

D

intoanice-creamfreezer.Youcanaddalittlemilkifdesireduntil

themixtureis2to4inchesfromthetopofthefreezercan.Ifyou

add the milk, mix thoroughly. Follow your ice-cream freezer

manufacturer’sinstructionsforfreezingtheicecream.

Hint:Ifthefreezerstopsorhangsup,addabout½cuporsoofwatertotheice-creammixturetoaidinthawing,

enoughsoitbeginstoturnfreely.

Variation: You canmix about 4 cups of sweetened fresh fruit (your choice) into themixture just before you

transferittotheice-creamfreezer.

Pop’sSaltLickSundae

TheSaltlickBar-B-Q18001FM1826Driftwood,TX78619512-858-4959http://www.saltlickbbq.com

riving along the rural road between Dripping Springs andAustin,Texas,mostpeoplewouldnotexpecttohappenuponaworld-classbarbecuejointstandingbyitselfinacattlepasture

sprinkledwithpostoakandlargeTexas-sizeshadetrees.Butthereitis,madeof limestoneand timber, fittingperfectly into the landscape.Outbackthegravelparkinglotcoveringseveralacresofformerpasturehintsathowpopularthisjointis.Thepicnicshelterwaitingareaoutsidetherestaurantentrancealsotellsyouthatthisjointisnostrangertocrowds.

The Salt Lick Bar-B-Q is a destination. Few customers just happenupon it. The huge parking lot fills up with busloads of tourists andcarloads of locals from nearby Dripping Springs and Austin 7 days aweek.Youmayhavetowait,butyou’llgetatable.

Imagineabunchofwood-beamedpicnic shelters stuck together, butwithwallsandscreensinsteadofopenair.Addaroundstoneholdingpitinsidetheentrance, loadedwithbarbecuemeatsthat looksogoodyouwanttogrababiterightnow.Addareceptiondeskwithcashregister,shelves of sauce, shirts, and gimme hats for sale, busy servers takingorders and delivering orders, picnic tables filled with people enjoyingthe barbecue and filling the airwith laughter, animated gestures, andgustatoryexclamations,andyou’vefoundtheSaltLick.Itislivingproofthat barbecue attracts people the way salt licks—blocks of solid saltplaced in pastures and woods—attract deer, cattle, and other furrycritters.

In hunting season a salt lick can prove dangerous for deer. PeopleattractedtotheSaltLickBar-B-Qgetamuchbetterdeal.Theyfeastontender, lean, juicymesquite-smoked barbecued beef brisket, pork ribs,chicken, sausage, and/or turkey, with sides of potato salad, coleslaw,beans,bread,pickles,andonions.Yougetfull,satisfied,withreasonablehopes to live another day, and yourwallet doesn’t take a beating. Besure to bring cash. The Salt Lick doesn’t take credit cards. ExcellentTexas barbecue at reasonable prices. Fast, friendly service. Ambiencegalore.

Holdit!Weshouldhavewarnedyouupfronttosaveroomfordessert.Thehomemadepecanpieandthepeachcobbleràlamodearenottobemissed. If you’re adventuresome, however, try a dessert that is not onthemenuthatyoucanmakeforyourselfatyourtable.Mindyou,thisisnot an official Salt Lickmenu item. It is the invention of KenWilson,jewelrymakerandpostcardcollector/dealer,inDrippingSprings.Ken’sgrandchildren call him “Pops.” Ardie and his wife, Gretchen, haveenjoyed several delightful feasts at the Salt Lick with Ken, his wife,Debbie Little-Wilson, artist/print maker with a special interest inwomen’ssuffrageandcowgirlthemes,andMaryFischer,ceramicsartistwhoisfamousforherceramichouses.Eachtime,Kenfinisheshismealwitha scoopofBlueBunny IceCream, toppedwith someoriginalSaltLickBar-B-QSauce.WecallitPops’sSaltLickSundae.Debbiehastriedit and likes it. Gretchen, Mary, and Ardie haven’t yet, but maybe onanothervisit! Sinceup tonowArdie’s favoriteunusualbarbecue sauce

combohasbeenMcClard’sbarbecuesauceonfreshcantaloupe,SaltLicksauceonicecreamoughtabenoproblem.MakesureyouuseSaltLicksauce.Youcangetitattherestaurant,online,andatgourmetstoresandsupermarkets.

POPS’SSALTLICKSUNDAEServes1

2scoopsvanillaicecream

¼cupSaltLickoriginalBar-B-Qsauce—nosubstitutions

Put the ice cream in a sundae vessel or bowl, topwith barbecue

sauce,andenjoy.

TurtleCheesecake

DeadMike’sBBQ

D4020PontoonRd.PontoonBeach,IL62040618-797-7910http://www.granitecitygossip.com/DeadMikesBBQ.html

on’t let the dead theme atDeadMike’s dissuade you or limityourvisitstoHalloween.It’safunplaceyou’llwanttofrequenton a regular basis. Menu items are embellished with names

evokinggraveconnotations,butyou’llfindtheall-timeregularbarbecuefavorites—pulled pork, brisket, ribs, and chicken—plus themandatorymetroSaintLouisgrilledporksteak.Ifyou’retrulynotinthemoodforbarbecue, order the fried catfish with malted vinegar. Or, if fish isn’tappealing,getthegrilledItaliansausagewithcaramelizedonions.

Surprisingly there is no “death by chocolate” dessert here—but atempting selectionofbourbonpecanpie, caramelgrannyapplepie, orturtle cheesecakemakesamends.Wecouldn’tgeta recipeoutofDeadMike,sohere’sourversionoftheturtlecheesecake.

TURTLECHEESECAKEMakesone9-inchcheesecake

CRUST

2cupsvanillawafercookiecrumbs

6tablespoonsbutter,melted

FILLING

About35Kraftcaramels

1teaspoonbutter

¼cupevaporatedmilk

1cupchoppedpecans

1cupchoppedgood-qualitymilkchocolate

2(8-ounce)packagescreamcheese,atroomtemperature

½cupsugar

1teaspoonvanillaextract

2largeeggs

CHOCOLATETOPPING

4(1-ounce)squaressemisweetchocolate

1teaspoonbutter

3tablespoonswhippingcream

GARNISH

12pecanhalves

Preheat the oven to 350°F. To prepare the crust, mix the cookie

crumbs and melted butter until the crumbs are thoroughly

moistened.Press them in thebottomandup the sidesofa9-inch

springformpan.Bake for10minutes.Remove from theovenand

allowtocool.Leavetheovenon.

Forthefilling,melt thecaramel,butter,andevaporatedmilk ina

saucepanoververylowheat.Addthechoppedpecansandstirfora

whiletocoolabit.Pourintothecooledcrustandallowtocoolfor

30minutesbefore sprinklingabout½cupof thechocolatepieces

overthecaramelmixture.

Whilethecaramelmixtureiscooling,youcanmaketherestofthe

filling. Beat the cream cheese with the sugar and vanilla until

fluffy.Add theeggsoneat a timeandcontinuebeating.Fold the

remaining chocolate pieces into the cheese mixture. Spoon the

cheese mixture over the caramel and bake for 40 minutes. To

prepare thechocolate topping,combinethechocolate,butter,and

whipping cream in a small saucepan and stir over lowheat until

smooth.Drizzle itoverthecheesecake.Refrigeratethecheesecake

tocoolitcompletely,thensprinklewithpecansjustbeforeserving.

WOMENINBARBECUEKaiserAluminum sponsored twoKaiserCookouts in1959and1960.The covetedprizewas to benamed

“America’s Cookout Champion of the Year.”Women

were not eligible to enter. Imagine trying to get by

witha“formenonly”barbecuecontesttoday!

So many women are actively involved in the sport,

art, or business of barbecue today that a complete

listing of names would fill a directory the size of a

small city. Women compete in and win barbecue

contests. Women own and run successful barbecue

businesses. Women write about barbecue and pen

best-sellingbarbecuecookbooks.

When Ardie wrote an article about women and

barbecue for the National Barbecue News and the

Kansas City Barbeque Society’s the Kansas City

Bullsheet,hegaveafewexamplesofwomenwhoare

active in various barbecue venues. Several readers

asked, “Why didn’t you mention so-and-so?” With

thatinmind,wewon’tmentionnameshere.Trustus,

however, women are very involved in barbecue

today! Today we are seeing the crumbling of the

genderwallsinbarbecue,andthat’sgood.

W

BreadPuddingwithWhiskeySauce

TheCountylineBar-B-Q6500BeeCaveRoadAustin,TX78746512-327-1742http://www.countyline.com/

e’ve never been disappointed at any of the County Linelocations,althoughwe’repartialtotheoriginal.Theviewofmetropolitan Austin, the roadhouse history, and the rustic

woodsyTexasCowboyCountryClubambiancefeelrighttous.

BeforeyousateyourappetiteonthosegargantuanbarbecuedbeefribstheCountyLineisfamousfor,stopyourself.Youhavetosaveroomfordessert—especiallythebreadpuddingwithwhiskeysauce.Portionsarebigenoughfortwoormore,sogoeasyorplantotakesomehome.

Legendhasitthatthisformerroadhouseishauntedbytheghostofayoungwomanwho losther life thereyears ago.We thinkwe sawherabout fiveminutes afterwe cleaned the last remnants of ourwhiskeysaucefromtheplate!

The County Line has their “Mom’s Bread Pudding Recipe” online.Here’s our version, which is similar and slightly easier to make. OurwhiskeysauceisadaptedfromtheCountyLine’srecipe.

BREADPUDDINGWITHWHISKEYSAUCEServes6to8

2cupscream,half-and-half,orwholemilk

4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter

¾cupgranulatedsugar

3largeeggs

1tablespoongroundcinnamon

½teaspoongroundnutmeg

1teaspoonvanillaextract

3cupsbread,tornintosmallpieces(Frenchbreadworksbest)

½cupraisinsorberries(optional)

TENNESSEEWHISKEYSAUCE

1pound(4sticks)GradeAbutter

2¼cupspackedlightbrownsugar,noclumps

1cupheavywhippingcream

¼cupJackDaniel’sTennesseeWhiskey(yourchoiceofBlack

Label, Green Label, Single Barrel, or Gentleman Jack) (no

substitutes)Preheatyourovento350°Fandplacearackin

thecenter. Inamediumsaucepan,overmediumheat,heat

thecreamjustuntilafilmformsoverthetop.Addthebutter

to the cream, stirring until the butter is melted. Cool to

lukewarm.

Inamixingbowl,combinethesugar,eggs,cinnamon,nutmeg,and

vanilla.Beatwithanelectricmixeratmediumspeedfor1minute.

Slowlyaddthecreammixturetothesugarmixture.

Place the bread in a lightly greased 1 ½-quart casserole dish.

Sprinklewithraisinsorberriesifdesired.Pourthebatterontopof

bread.Bakefor45to50minutesoruntilset.

Whilethebreadpuddingisbaking,makethewhiskeysauce.Melt

thebutter inaclean,heavystainlesssteelpanovermediumheat.

Be careful not to burn the butter. Slowly add the brown sugar,

stirringconstantlywithawoodenspoonuntilthesugarisdissolved

andthemixtureissmoothandhot,butnotsimmering.Simmering

orboilingwillmake thesauce too thick, soavoid toomuchheat.

Slowlyaddtheheavywhippingcream,stirringasyouaddit.Blend

wellandremovefromheat.AddJackDanielsWhiskeyandwhipit

into the sauce, mixing well. Pour a generous portion atop the

finishedbreadpuddingandlickthepanclean!

OURFAVORITEBARBECUERESTAURANTS

ARDIE’STOP10

1. Cooper’s Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que (Llano, TX) 2. Arthur

Bryant’s Barbeque (Kansas City, MO) 3. Oklahoma Joe’s

Barbecue and Catering (Kansas City, KS) 4. Johnny Harris

Restaurant & Barbecue Sauce Company (Savannah, GA) 5.

Allen & Son (Chapel Hill, NC) 6. Louie Mueller Barbecue

(Taylor,TX)7.A&RBar-B-Que(Memphis,TN)8.TheBar-B-

QShop(Memphis,TN)

9.HeadCountryBarbecue(PoncaCity,OK)10.RUB(NewYork

City,NY)

PAUL’STOP10

1.TheDixiePig(Blytheville,AR)

2.OklahomaJoe’sBarbecueandCatering(KansasCity,KS)3.

Cooper’sBar-B-Q&Grill(Junction,TX)4.Cooper’sOldTime

Pit Bar-B-Que (Llano, TX) 5. RUB (NewYork City,NY, and

LasVegas,NV)6.Danny’sPlace(Carlsbad,NM)

7. Leonard’s Pit Barbecue (Memphis, TN) 8. Ironhorse

Barbeque Company (Paragould, AR) 9. Head Country

Barbecue (Ponca City, OK) 10. Arthur Bryant’s Barbeque

(KansasCity,MO)

I

LEGACYRECIPES

Red’sBarbecued’CoonIraRay“Red”GillRazorbackCookersCatering,Blytheville,AR

raRay“Red”GillwasbornintheverysmalltownofDell,Arkansas,in1928.Heusedtosaythattheonlywaythepopulationeverwentupwaswhensomeonewasbornandtheonlywayitwentdownwas

whensomeonedied.RaydiedonJune3,2003,inBlytheville,Arkansas,atage75.

Raywasoneofthemostcolorfulcharacterswehaveevermetonthebarbecuetrail,andithadnothingtodowithhisredhair.Hewasshortinstatureandatelleroftalltales,arodeoclown,aBrahmaBullrider,ajack of all trades, and one hell of a good barbecuer. Besides being alegendonthebarbecuecircuit,hewasaskedtocaterPresidentClinton’sfirstinauguralparty.

RaywasaWorldWarIIandKoreanWarveteran,servinginboththeU.S.ArmyandtheU.S.AirForce.Afterhismilitarycareer,RaysettledinBlytheville,Arkansas,withhiswife,EvaLannumGill.Helovedbarbecueandhadbeendoingitallhislife,sonaturallyheestablishedabarbecuecateringbusiness,RazorbackCookersCatering.Byage37Rayhadbeenhonored by the Jaycees as one of the Outstanding Young Men ofAmerica.

In1986,attheageof58,RayformedtheRiverCitySpiceCompany.Inspired by great-grandfatherWilliam Thomas Gill, Ray adapted somesecret family recipes into a line of barbecue seasonings and sauces(which you can order at http://www.rivercityspice.com). River CityBarbecueProductswasborn,brandedasRazorbackBar-B-Q.Razorbackproducts and the Razorback cooking team established a winningreputationintheworldwidebarbecuecontestnetwork.

Ireland, Scotland, Wales, and twenty-six states in the United Stateshave awarded Red and his son, RayAlan, and the Razorback Cookerschampionships, including World’s Best Barbecue Sauce, World’s BestBaby Back Ribs, Best Ribs in the World, Virginia Invitational WorldBarbecuecontest,Best intheWest…thelistgoeson.TheMemphisinMay World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest committeeawarded Ray a plaque that reads: “To Red Gill and his RazorbackCookers, A great showman and the World’s Best Barbecue and Porkpromoter.”

Raywillberememberedforhiscleverwaywithwords.Herearesomeof his great sayings: “Good Food Ain’t Cheap. Cheap Food Ain’tGood!”

“Servenoswinebeforeitstime;servenobeefatanytime.”

“Yougottastartwithgoodmeatandyougottahaveslowcooking.Yougottacookitlowandcookitslow.”

—Ray“Red”Gill,DP,UHOH(DoctorofPorkology,UniversityofHighontheHog)

Everythingnowisrunbyanewlegendinthemaking,RayandEva’sson,RayAlan,alongwithhiswife,Glenda,andthehelpanddirectionofEvaGill.

Before his death, Ray posted several recipes on his Web pages forposterity.Thebarbecuedraccoonrecipestandsoutasthemostunusual.We can easily imagine Ray embellishing the recipe with stories andcookingtips.Mayherestinpeace.

RED’SBARBECUED’COONServes10to12

1(8-to10-pound)raccoon,dressed

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2mediumonions,chopped

3to5driedredpeppers

Saltandblackpepper

RazorbackBrandBarbequeSauce,hotormild

Washtheraccoonandcutitinto10to12serving-sizepieces.Cover

with coldwater in aDutch oven. Bring to a boil for 15minutes.

Pouroffthewaterandaddfreshwateralongwiththeonions,dried

peppers,andsaltandblackpeppertotaste.Boilfor1to2hours,or

until tender. Remove and dry on paper towels. Dip the meat in

barbecue sauce and place on a hot grill for 45 minutes, basting

frequently.Remove from thegrill andplace in shallowpan.Pour

thesauceoverthemeatandbakeat350°Ffor1hour.

GrilledRattlesnakeJimQuessenberryArkansasTrav’ler

im Quessenberry was one of those larger-than-life characters inthebarbecuenetworkwhowillneverbeforgotten.Hewasabigmanwith big dreams and a big appetite for excellent barbecue

andfun.Jimwasagreatstorytellerandpracticaljoker.

AnytimeyouvisitedJiminhiscookingareaatacontesthe’dtreatyoulikefamily.Hewouldofferyouadrink,inviteyoutositdownandrestyourfeet,andthenask,“Didyouhearaboutwhatkindofmessoldso-and-sogothimself into?”That,ora similarquestion,was theplatformforatalltaleorajoke.AnyonewasfairgameforJim’spracticaljokes;ladieshadtobeespeciallyonguard.WeremembertheyearJimbrought

a big bullfrog to theMemphis in MayWorld Championship BarbecueCookingContest.Heriggedupaninconspicuoustrapdooratthebackofhis porta-potty. Since access to a private facility has always been apremiumat thecontest, Jimwasquick toobligewhen friendswere inneed. The Year of the Bullfrog was one of his finest moments. Aftergiving a female guest sufficient time to be seated inside, Jim wouldquietly slip the bullfrog through the trapdoor. Soon there would be ascreamandthedoorwouldburstopen.We’ll leaveitatthat,excepttonotethatonetimethejokedidn’twork.Aladywhocouldbedescribedasa“countrygirl”notgiventofearofcrittersdidn’t—toJim’ssurprise—comeburstingoutthedoor,nordidshescream.“Thefunniestdarnthinghappenedinthere,”shetoldJim.“Ilookeddownandsawabigbullfrogsittingnexttome.PoorthingtookahoptohisdemisewhenIstoodup.”Jimdecidedagainstrescuingtheunfortunatecritter.

We’re baffled as to why Jim never took the grand championship atMemphis inMaywith his whole hog. He barbecued some of the besthogswe’veevertasted,rightuptherewithwhatEdMitchellturnsoutinRaleigh,NorthCarolina (seepage86).As farasweknow,JimandEdnevermet,buttheywouldhavebeeninstantbuddiesandanunbeatablewhole-hogcooking team.Jimdid,however,win the Irish InternationalBarbecueCookingContestinLisdoonvarnain1985and1987,plusmanyothercontestsintheUnitedStates.

Jim wasn’t the first or last Arkansan to call himself the ArkansasTrav’ler. It was a term he usedmostly for branding his team and hisproducts—SauceBeautifulandSpiceBeautiful.Tothemanybarbecuerswho knew him and loved him, he was “Ques” (pronounced “Kwez”).Fortunately,Jim’shotandmildSauceBeautifulandhisSpiceBeautifuldid not pass awaywith him like a dream. That would have been sadpoeticjustice,sinceJimsworewithastraightfacethattherecipescametohiminadream.Whereverthesource,theyweretastyandbeautiful,andJimwaswiseenoughtopassalongtherecipestohissons,LeeandMichael.Youcanvisittheproductsiteandorderatwww.bbqberry.com.

WeneveraskedJimexactlyhowhecookedhisHogsBeautiful.Unlesshe taught his sons, or his faithful sidekick, Arthur, the recipes and

techniques went with Jim to the Great Barbecue in the Sky. We doremember,however,whathetoldusabouthowtocookrattlesnake.

ARKANSASTRAWLERRATTLESNAKEBEAUTIFULServes8to12asanappetizer

RATTLERRUB

1½tablespoonsseasalt

1½tablespoonsblackpepper

2teaspoonsgranulatedgarlic

2teaspoonspaprika

RATTLESNAKE

1rattlesnake,about12ounces,skinned

2tablespoonscanolaoil

¼cupRattlerRuborSpiceBeautiful

Combinetheseasalt,blackpepper,granulatedgarlic,andpaprika

andmixwell.

Using a very thin, sharp fillet knife, start at the middle of the

snake’sbackboneandworkaroundthebonetothebelly.Takeyour

time.This isverydelicateandexpensivemeat.Cut intobite-sized

fillets.

CoatthefilletswithcanolaoilandlightlysprinklewiththeRattler

Rub or Spice Beautiful. Use a grill topper to avoid dropping the

meat through the grill grate. Grill overmediumheat for about 1

minutepersideuntildone.Overcookedrattlesnakewillberubbery

REFLECTIONSOFANOMAHAPITMASTER

Our longtime friendMasonSteinberg, proprietorof the formerMason’sOldMillBar-B-QueinOmaha(page194),wrotethefollowingpieceofpersonalbarbecuehistoryforustosharewithyou.It’sakeeper!

“ThisBar-B-QueShouldSatisfyAll,”NewOrleans-bornrestaurantcriticfortheOmahaWorldHeraldJimDelmontsaidinhisthreereviewsofOldMillBar-B-Queinfiveyears.

IopenedOldMillin1990becauseIcouldn’tgetmystyleofbarbecueinOmaha anymore. I like green hickory-smoked brisket, pork butt, andspareribs, like I got in the early fifties at Omaha’s premier barbecuejoint, The Silver Pit. I will never forget the first time I walked in theSilverPitandwalkeduptothepitboss,JasperJones.HeaskedmewhatIwanted,andafterlookingatthemenuboardIorderedaribsandwich.Four spareribs, 2 slices of barbecue bread, and sauce on the side. Todrink, Whistle Orange out of the 10-cent Coke machine next to thescreen-doorentrance.

Fromthatmomenton, Iwasaddictedandneverwantedtogothroughtreatment.Mymanyyears travelingallover theworldeatingbarbecuehelpedfeedmyaddiction.

In1989,while reminiscingaboutourhigh schoolyears, thediscussiongotaround tomy favorite food…youguessed it: barbecue.Talk thenfocusedaroundlate-nighttripstotheblackcommunityinNorthOmahaforbarbecue.Mostthatnightagreedthattheold-stylebarbecuewehadasbig-shothighschoolathleteswasnolongeravailable.

HavinghadtoomanyJackDaniel’sandwater,Iopenedmymouthandsaid I couldopenabarbecue restaurantwithin6monthsand itwouldtastejustliketheolddays.Barbecuebreadandall!

IthappenedinOctober1990andgavemesomeofthebestyearsofmylife—mycustomers, friends Imet,knowledge Igainedaboutbarbecue,traveling, and all the time feeding my addiction. Who could ask foranythingmore?

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I featured triple-deck thin-sliced brisket sandwiches, pulled pork,spareribs, whole smoked chickens cut into two-bone, four-bone, orwhole birds, and naturally everything came with barbecue bread andmild,medium,orbig-boyhotsauceontheside.

AfteracoupleofyearsIaddedbrisketburntends,smokedcatfish,andsmoked feather bones. Feather bones (riblets, for the unenlightened)were a Sunday all-you-can-eat special from noon until we sold out.Record:84piecesand3pitchersofbeer.

Anall-time favorite is thehomemadesmokedbeans—rich,dark, spicy,onthesweetside,smoky,withlargecubesofsmokedbrisketinathicksauce, cookedwithour special blendof bean seasoning, all smoked inourhickorypit.

BarbecuedPorkShoulderGaryWellsFounderandFormerPresident,KansasCityBarbequeSociety

hepeopleofbarbecuearenotjustfriends,theyarefamily.Onewell-knownbarbecuersaiditthisway,“Youcanalwayssaythatyourbarbecueisbetterthanhisbarbecue.Whatyoudon’tsayis

anythingderogatory,forinstance,sayinghisbarbecuetasteslikemudorisastastyasapieceofwood.It’sjustacommoncourtesy.Youdon’tteardownyourbarbecuefamily.”

GaryWells belongs in the legacy sectionof this cookbook.Althoughheownedarestaurantandhotelonce,Garyneverownedormanagedabarbecue restaurant. Gary’s involvement in the sport of barbecue,however, has resulted in an explosionof newpitmasters andbarbecuerestaurateurs.

Garyandhiswife,Carolyn,startedtheKansasCityBarbequeSociety(KCBS), the world’s largest and foremost barbecue organization. TheKCBScanbeviewedasaBarbecueRestaurantFarmSystem.Outofthe

barbecue contest system and training programs Gary and Carolynstarted,manysuccessfulbarbecueteachers,pitmasters,andrestaurateurshaveemerged.

When Gary cooked barbecue in competition, he especially liked tocookporkshoulder.Hereisoneofhistreasuredrecipes.

GARYWELLS’SBARBECUEDPORKSHOULDERServes8to10

¼cuponionsalt

2tablespoonscelerysalt

2tablespoonsseasonedsalt

½cuppackedlightbrownsugar

¼cuppaprika

2tablespoonsblackpepper

1tablespooncayenne

1 (18-to 20-pound)whole pork shoulder, trimmed,with skin

on2(24-ounce)bottlesWicker’sOriginalMarinade

Preheatyoursmokerto250°F.Combinetheonionsalt,celerysalt,

seasoned salt, brown sugar, paprika, pepper, and cayenne, and

blend well. Rub all of the exposedmeat with the rub, but don’t

seasontheskin.

Placetheshoulder inthesmokerskinsideup.Turnandbastethe

meatsidewiththeWicker’severy3hours.Cookuntiltheinternal

temperature is 185°F for slicing or 195°-205°F for pulling or

chopping(seepage212).Servewithyour favoritebarbecuesauce

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ontheside.

BisteccaallaFiorentinaGiancarloGianelliBarbecueBaronofTuscany

he call came when Ardie and his dining companions hadfinished one of the most memorable meals of their lives: afantastic multicourse dinner of Tuscan gourmet delights

prepared by Chef Giancarlo Gianelli. They were visiting with andpraisingGiancarlointheoutdoorcourtyardofhissmallrestaurant, theLocandadell’OstePoeta,atTocchi,Monticano,Sienna.“Giancarlo,Ijustshot a wild boar in my cornfield,” his friend, Vittorio, said over thephone. “Will you please come help me butcher it?” Giancarlo asked,somewhathesitantly,soasnottooffendthediners,iftheywouldliketocomealong.Havingjustdinedongrilledwildboarchopsmarinatedinbalsamic vinegar and herbs—plus seven other superb Tuscan dishes,withcomplementarylocaltablewines—theywerereadyforadventure.

Itwasaverydarknightas theynavigatedanarrowdirt road in theTuscan hills to Vittorio’s farm. The darkness was broken occasionallywith flickeringgravesitecandlelights incemeteries,honoring thedead.Giancarlohoppedoutandopenedagate,craftedofsticksandbranchesfrom nearby trees, and they proceeded into Vittorio’s farm. In thedoorwayofthebarnwasahugedeadmalewildboar,stillwarm,restingin a big stainless-steelwheelbarrow below chains on a pulley to hoisthimupbythehindlegsforbutchering.Toolsandartworkadornedthewalls.ItwaslikewalkingintoaFellinimoviewiththesetdesignedbySalvadorDali—butitwasreal.

Giancarlowenttoworkontheboar—hoisting itupsidedownbytheback legs, slicing through the belly and spilling the contents into thewheelbarrow. Vittorio tossed some of the organs outside to hisexuberant,barkinghuntingdogs.Soontheboarwasstrippedofitshide

and removed to a cooler for further processing later. It was done.EveryonecheeredandtoastedwitharoundofChianti.ThisisonlyoneofmanymemoriesthatfriendsofGiancarlowereleftwithinthewakeofhis untimely death froma respiratory illness at age 57.His dearwife,Adriana, preceded him in death by two years—two years of grief anddeepsorrowforGiancarlo.

When Ardie first met Giancarlo in 1995, he and Adriana ran arestaurant in leasedspace in thesmallvillageofStegliano.Robustandbearded,hewasgrillingaspatchcockchicken,coveredwithabrick,onhis Tuscan grill with oak charcoal. Ardie’s rudimentary Italian andGiancarlo’srudimentaryEnglishdidn’tmakeforasmoothconversation,butwithgesturesandwordstheirrapportwasinstant—especiallywhenamutualpassionforbarbecueandJackDaniel’sbecameapparent.ArdiedubbedGiancarlo the“BarbecueBaronofTuscany,”andasked thathepleasehavewild boar onhismenu thenext timeArdie came to Italy,despitetheTuscancustomofonlyservingwildboar—exceptintheformofcuredsausage—inthewintermonths.

Two years later Ardie returned to Tuscany, bringing some barbecueandJackDaniel’smemorabiliaandencouragingGiancarlotocompeteinthe Jack Daniel’s World Championship Invitational Barbecue. Lo andbehold,heeventually foundasponsorandmadethetrip.He,Adriana,andtheir friendsSusanPenningtonfromMontes-tiglianoandEllenandPeterBrownfromMinneapolis,formedteamAllegriCinghiali.ThankstoCliff and Donny Weddington of Oink, Cackle & Moo, team AllegriCinghiali had a pit and some excellent mentoring. Billy Bones alsostopped by to welcome them and share a few tips for success. ToGiancarlo’s regret, the grand championship eluded him, but he andAdriana were thrilled to take home the First Place trophy for “HomeCookingfromtheHomeland.”GiancarlowastrulyaRenaissanceMan—chef, poet, artist, expert on Etruscan dietary habits, teacher, father,husband,friend,andfounderofamovementdedicatedtocontemporaryinterpretationsofTuscancuisine,the“BlueKerchiefs.”

WhatfollowsisarecipeadaptedfromGiancarlo’sself-publishedbook,The Taste of Memories. Giancarlo was a native of Florence, where helearned the Florentinemanner of cooking. Hismany Florentine dishesweresecondtonone,includingthisclassicFlorentineSteak.

BISTECCAALLAFIORENTINA(STEAKINTHEFLORENTINEMANNER)Filletsofbeef,cuttoathicknessofthreefingers(T-bonecutsuggested)Salt

Freshlygroundblackpepper

Extra-virginoliveoil

Removethesteaksfromtherefrigeratoratleast3hoursbeforethey

aretobecookedsothatthemiddleofthefinishedsteakswillnot

becold.Giancarlowouldsuggestthatatthesametimeyouopena

bottleofgoodChianti thathasbeenaged forat least threeyears.

Placealargeamountofcharcoalunderthegrill,setthegrateabove

it(preferablyatleastthewidthoffourfingersabovethecoals),and

preheatituntilitisglowingbutwithnoflame.

Place the steaks on the grill. Let them cook on one side,without

addingsaltandundernocircumstancesproddingthemwithafork.

Whentheyhaveformedacrust(afterseventoeightminutes),turn

themoverwith a spatula, sprinkle the cooked sidewith salt, and

grill themontheotherside forseventoeightminutes.Turnover

againandsalttheotherside.Attheendtheyshouldstillberarein

themiddleandwellcookedontheoutside.Beforeserving,season

eachsteakwithalittlefreshlygroundblackpepperandacoupleof

drops of extra-virgin olive oil. This and only this is the real

fiorentina—a T-bone cut of sirloin steak, no lemon, never well-

done,andonlygrilledovercharcoal.

Note: One day the man who taught Giancarlo to cook

suggested packing the steaks in some dry hay and putting

them in the refrigerator for 5 or 6 hours so that the meat

absorbs themost intense of the flavors onwhich the animal

feeds.Giancarlo sometimesdid that,andhewouldalsoburn

thesamehaynexttothemastheycooked.Hethoughtitmight

be a rather sacrilegious thing to do, but a little bit of

blasphemyeverynowandtheniscertainlynotgoingtogetus

senttoHell.

3fortheMoneyBarbecuedRibsMasonSteinbergOldMillBar-B-Que,Omaha,NE

MasonSteinbergwas thecreatorand facilitatorofOldclosednowbutmaybereopenedintheOmahaareasoonbyhissonJason.

WewouldventuretosaythatOldMillBar-B-Quewasoneofthebestbarbecue restaurants in the Midwest, with good food, ambience, andgreat barbecue. Mason, being a very frugal person and goodbusinessman,would buy natural-fall ribs (full slab, untrimmed), 3 anddownspareribs,whichmeanstheslabsweighed3poundsorless.Masoncut the slabs into St. Louis-style ribs,whichmeans he squared up theslabs and cut the breastbone and the gristle from the top of the slab.Thesearecalledribtips.Whenyoudothis,youalsotaketheskirt(aflapthatisattachedtothediaphragm)offtheinsideoftheslab.It’sallclearasmud,right?

Masonbarbecuedribseverydayforhisbusiness,andhesavedtheribtips to run a Saturday night special. For Sunday afternoon, he ran abarbecued skirt special. That’s why we dedicate this 3 for theMoneyBarbecuedRibsrecipetoMason.

3FORTHEMONEYBARBECUEDRIBS

Ribsserve4to6;ribtipsserve2;skirtsserve1

2slabsSt.Louisspareribs

2ribtips

2skirts

1cupbarbecuerubofyourchoice

Remove the membrane from the back of the ribs and trim any

excessfat.Seasontheribsalloverwithyourfavoritebarbecuerub.

Cooktheribsandribtipsusingtheindirectmethodat230°-270°F

for5 to6hours,oruntil the ribs teareasily.Rib tips take4 to5

hours. Grill the skirts at 400°-500°F using the direct or indirect

method,whichwilltake1to3hours.

MASON’SBARBECUEDFEATHERBONES

Serves6to8

1tablespoongarlicpowder

1tablespoononionpowder

1tablespoonsalt

1teaspoonallspice

1teaspoonchilipowder

1teaspoonblackpepper

½teaspoongroundnutmeg

½teaspooncayenne

¼teaspoongroundcinnamon

2poundsfeatherbones(1½by3½-inchbonescutfromahog’s

backbone) In an airtight container, combine the garlic

powder, onion powder, salt, allspice, chili powder, black

pepper,nutmeg,cayenne,andcinnamon.Mixwell,seal,and

storeinacool,dryplaceuntilreadytouse,upto6months.

Preheat your offset smoker to 225°-250°F. You can also use your

grill for smoking (page 201). Season the feather bones fairly

heavily with the spice rub. Then let the meat sit at room

temperatureforabout1hour.Placethemeatbonesidedownona

screen or cookie sheet in your smoker and smoke for about 30

minutes. Turn themeat so that you’ll havemarks on both sides;

thensmokeforanother30minutes.Theinternaltemperatureofthe

meatshouldbeabout160°Fwhenitisfinished.Makesurethereis

plentyofsmokeinthesmokerthroughoutthecookingtimeanddo

not sauce the featherboneswhile cooking, as theheat and smoke

shouldgivethemanicemahoganycolorwithawonderfulflavor.If

youdo serve sauce,do soasa lightdipping saucewithplentyof

BBQbread (page67) formoppingup the juices andmaybe some

sauce.

Note:Youcancookthefeatherbonesthedaybeforeyouplan

toserve them.Cookuntil theyreachan internal temperature

of 140°F on an instant-read thermometer, let them cool, and

refrigerate overnight. Let sit at room temperature for 1 hour

beforeplacingtheminyoursmokerat225°-250°Fforabout30

minutes,untiltheinternaltemperaturereaches160°F.

J

BarbecuedBabyBackRibsJohnWillinghamWorldChampionBarbecuer,CookbookAuthor,andTellerofTallTalesMemphis,TNwww.willinghamsbbq.com/

ohn Willingham is a barbecue legend, icon, entrepreneur, andpublicservantwhoissecondtononeinthebarbecuenetwork.Hisbarbecuecontestawards—including twograndchampionshipsat

MemphisinMayandtheAmericanRoyal—couldfillanentireroominabarbecue hall of fame. Not one to rest on his laurels, John is fullyengaged each day in the pursuit of barbecue excellence. AlthoughweconsiderJohn’sbarbecueworktobeapublicservice,healsoprovidesapublic service in the traditional sense. He is a former Shelby CountycommissioneraswellasanactivememberofAscensionLutheranChurchwith his wife,Marge.Marge and John are the proud parents of threedaughters and seven grandchildren. John’s popular cookbook, JohnWillingham’s World Champion Bar-B-Q, spells out some of his manysecretstobarbecuesuccess.

John’s search for the best way to cook barbecue prompted hisinventionofthefamousW’hamTurboCooker,forwhichheholdsaU.S.patent.Healsodevelopedanaward-winninglineofW’hamseasonings,both dry and wet. John was also one of the first barbecuers to useWorcestershirepowderandpowderedvinegar.

John has been our friend and barbecue buddy since themid-1980s,whenwemethimatMemphisinMay.HeisPaul’sMemphiscounterpartin several respects. Both John and Paul designed and built their ownpits; both hang their barbecue, Chinese style; and both have beencooking competition barbecue since the early 1980s. In addition, bothhavewontheAmericanRoyalGrandChampionship—theOpenandtheInvitational—andbothhavebeenGrandChampionoftheJackDaniel’sWorldChampionshipInvitationalBarbecue.Bothoftheircookingteamshavewon Team of the Year forMemphis inMay and the Kansas CityBarbecue Society, respectively. Both have a background and anassociationwith TraderVic, aworld-renowned restaurateur known forhis Asian cuisine, which might explain their love for Asian foods,flavorings, and sauces. And last but not least, John and Paul areconsideredbarbecuementorsandgurus,amongotherthings.

John’s world championship cooking team is called the River CityRooters.Johnhasownedthreebarbecuerestaurantsinhislongtenureas“themanofMemphisbarbecue,”buthe isnowoutofallof them.HeconcentratesonsellinghisW’hamproductsandisinvolvedinMemphispolitics.

John is known for his great championship ribs. Here is a recipe hegavetoPaul,saying,“It’ssimple.JustusemyW’hamseasoningsandyoucan’tgowrong.”

BARBECUEDBABYBACKRIBSServes4to6

2slabsbabybackribs

½cupW’hamseasoningofyourchoice(orusetherecipethat

follows)Applejuice,forbasting

Set up your smoker to cook indirectly at 250°-275°F. This

temperatureisalittlehigherthanusual,butJohnbelievesthatribs

shouldbecookedhotter thanmostbarbecue.Toprepare the ribs,

trim them of excess fat. Do not remove the membrane from the

back of the ribs before you cook them. John, like many other

Memphispitmasterswe’vemet,saysthatleavingthemembraneon

keeps the meat juices in. Paul and John have a friendly

disagreementonthistechnique.Sprinkletheribsalloverwiththe

W’hamseasoning.Placetheribsinthesmoker.Ifyouhangtheribs

likeJohnandPauldo,youdon’thavetoturnthem.Justbastethem

withapplejuiceafter1½hours.Ifyoucooktheribsonagrateor

inaribrack,turnthemafter1½hoursandbastewithapplejuice.

Cook the ribs3 to4hoursoruntilyoucan take tworibs sideby

sideandeasilytearthemapart.Whentheribsarefinishedcooking,

removethemembraneandserve.

W’HAM-STYLESEASONINGMakesabout2¾cups

½cupcanesugar

½cuponionsalt

½cupgarlicsalt

2tablespoonschilipowder

2tablespoonsWorcestershirepowder

1tablespoonlemonpepper

1tablespoonblackpepper

1tablespoonvinegarpowder

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1teaspooncayenne

1teaspoonrubbedsage

1teaspoondriedbasil

½teaspoongroundrosemary

Combinealloftheingredientsandblendwell.Storeinsealedjarin

acool,darkplaceuntilreadytouse,upto6months.

BBQ,MuttonOtisBoydBoyd‘n’SonBar-B-Q,KansasCity,MO

tis Boyd was a pitmaster’s pitmaster and a Kansas Citybarbecueicon.Hehasgoneontohisheavenlyreward,anditisonlyappropriatethatwherehisbarbecuerestaurantstoodat

5510 Prospect Avenue is now a church. Thank you, Otis, for yourwonderfulbarbecueandforbeingatruegentleman.

Over thecourseofa6-hourvisit severalyearsago,Mr.Boydsharedhisrecipeforbarbecuedmutton.Hiswasoneofthefewplacesintownthat soldmutton. Itwas smoked to tender perfection and saucedwithMr.Boyd’stomato-basedbarbecuesauceforaperfectcomplement.

BBQMUTTONServes6to8

3slabsmuttonbreast(ribs)

2quartsbuttermilk

BARBECUERUB

½cupseasalt

½cuppackeddarkbrownsugar

1tablespoongroundallspice

1tablespoonfinelygroundblackpepper

2teaspoonsgroundcoriander

2teaspoonsgroundjuniperberries

1teaspoongroundrosemary

1teaspoongroundthyme

½teaspoongroundnutmeg

MUSTARDSLATHER

2largeclovesgarlic,peeled

½teaspoonseasalt

½cupDijonmustard

1tablespoonsoysauce

1½teaspoonsgroundrosemary,thyme,ororegano

2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice

¼cupoliveorpeanutoil

Heatyourgrillorsmokerto230°-250°F.Trimanyexcessfat from

the ribs and place the ribs in a large plastic bag. Pour the

buttermilkover the ribs,press theair from thebag, seal thebag,

andplaceitintherefrigeratortomarinatefor8hoursorovernight.

Combine the rub ingredients in a small bowl and blendwell. To

makethemustardslather,mashthegarlicwiththesaltinasmall

bowl.Whiskinthemustard,soysauce,herb,lemonjuice,andthen

theoil,tomakeamayonnaise-likecream.

Removetheribsfromthemarinade,shakeoffanyexcessmarinade,

andblotwithpapertowels.Withapastrybrush, lightlybrushthe

mustardslatheronthebonesideoftheribs;thenseasonthatside

with the rub. Repeat with the meat side. Place the ribs in your

cooker and cook for about 6 hours, or until the ribs pull apart

easily.

BARBECUEBASICS

WHATISBARBECUE?Thereisnoeasyanswer.Barbecueisamethodofcooking.Barbecued

meat is also barbecue. A gathering of people to eat barbecue is abarbecue,too.

The barbecue method of cooking involves cooking meat at lowtemperatures(225°to275°F)forseveralhours—from4to24,ormore.Theresultismeatthatistenderandsmoky,withabout25percentoftheoriginalbulklostthroughrenderingoffatandjuices.Whenbarbecueiscalled“smoking,”thereferenceisto“hotsmoking”inabarbecuepit,asopposed to “cold smoking,”which involves cooking brinedmeats at alowtemperature,usuallyforseveraldays.Traditionallythatisdoneinasmokehouse.Bothmethodsimpartsmokeflavorinthemeat.

The word barbecue is sometimes used interchangeably with grilling.Grillingisamethodofcookingfoodsdirectlyorindirectlyoverhotcoalsorflamesforshortperiodsoftime,fromafewsecondstomorethananhour.Thus,grillingishotandfast;barbecueisslowandlow.

Purists insist that grilling is not barbecue. While technically that istrue,wehavenoargumentwithbackyardcookswhoinvitefriendsandfamily to a “barbecue” featuring grilled hot dogs, sausages, steaks, orburgers.

DIRECTVS.INDIRECTGRILLINGDirectgrillingisamethodofquicklycookingfoodbyplacingitona

grill rackdirectlyover theheat source.Direct grillingworksbestwithsmallerportionsoffoodandfoodsthatrequireshortcookingtimes,suchas burgers and/or foodswith a low fat content, such aswell-trimmedsteaksandchops.Itisfasterthanindirectcookingbecausemoreintense

heatisprovidedandallowsforbrowningontheoutsideoffoods.Foodisoftencookeduncoveredonacharcoalgrillbutcoveredonagasgrill.

Indirectgrillingisamethodofgrillingslowly,toonesideoftheheatsource,overadrippaninacoveredgrill.Hotaircirculatesaroundthefood,muchlikeinaconvectionoven,anditcooksmoreslowlybecauselessheatisprovided.Indirectgrillingisidealforlargercutsofmeatthatrequirelongercookingtimes.

BARBECUINGEQUIPMENTBarbecue joints use a variety of cooking equipment, from custom-madetocommerciallymanufactured.Fifty-five-gallondrumsmadeintocookers, cinder block pits—above or below ground—with grates andsteelplatesforlids,brickpitswithcarouselgrates,“aquarium”pitswithglasswalls,stainless-steelpitsfueledwithgas,wood,electricity,orwoodpellets,andlargesteelcustom-madepitsarewhatwe’veseenmostoftenatbarbecuejoints.

Homebarbecueequipment can range from low-techand inexpensiveto high-tech and very expensive. If you don’t already have a grill,werecommendstartingwiththelow-techandinexpensiveiconofbackyardcooking,thekettlegrill.Ineithercase,beginwithstudyingtheowner’smanualforbasicguidanceandtips.

FOILDRIPPANFORINDIRECTGRILLING

Adrippanisahelpfulaccessoryforindirectgrilling.Makeafoildrippanbytearingoffasheetofheavy-dutyfoilabout2½timesas

largeasthefoodyouwillbecooking.Foldthefoilinhalf;thenfold

uptheedgestomake2-inch-highsides.Creasethecornerstoseal.

GRILLS:GASORCHARCOAL?

GRILLS:GASORCHARCOAL?Both gas grills and charcoal grills have their proponents. When webarbecue,weprefercharcoalandwood,butnoteveryonefeelsthatway.Paulhasdonetwoblindtastetestsusinggasvs.charcoal,andgaswonbothtimes.

The recipes in this book are from barbecue restaurants andprofessionals,where theyalmost alwaysuse charcoal, but you canusewhatyouhaveandwhatyou’recomfortablewith.Theresultsmaynotbeexactlythesame,butyou’llstillendupwithsomegreatbarbecue.

Here’saquicksummaryofgasandcharcoalgrillfeatures.

GASGRILLSGasgrills come inall shapesand sizes.Theyusepropane tanksoranatural gas hookup. They are essentially ametal box linedwith tube-shapedliquidpropaneburnersonthebottom.Theburnersaretoppedbya heating surface of metal bars, lava rocks, which are natural rockresulting from volcanic lava, or ceramic briquettes, which are radiantmaterials compacted into a brick shape.Ceramic briquettes don’t burncompletely as charcoal does. Lava rocks and metal plates are moresimilaralternativestocharcoal.Lavarockscanbeusedmanytimes,buteventuallyneedtobereplaced.

BenefitsofGasGrillsGas grills are quick to preheat—10 to 15 minutes. Multiple burnersallowyoutocontroltheheatbetterthanacharcoalgrill.Gasgrillsarealsolessmessy—nocharcoalorfirestarters—andtheyburnlongerthancharcoal. One 20-pound tank lasts for 12 to 14 hours. It’s easier tomaintainhighertemperaturesonagasgrillthanonacharcoalgrill,butifyou’recookingforlongperiodsoftime,you’llusealotofgas.

WhattoLookForWhenselectingagasgrill,lookforonemadefrommaterialssuchascastaluminum, stainless steel, or porcelain-coated steel. Stainless-steel or

porcelain enamel-coated grill racks are easy to clean. Push-buttonignitionallowseasy,safelighting

You’ll want a minimum of three burners that work independently forgreatergrillingflexibilityandheatcontrol.Agasgaugetomonitorfuellevelsisespeciallyhelpfulforbarbecuing,whenyou’recookingforlongperiods of time. Also look for a built-in thermometer to monitor grilltemperature.

Other options you’ll find are removable secondary grill racks, sideburners for cooking other foods while you’re grilling, extra outsideshelving for storage, extra outside workspace for food prep, androtisseriefittings.

Anoffsetsmoker isnice tohave ifyoudoa lotofsmoking,but ifyouonlyoccasionallysmokefood,youcanuseyourgrill.Youcanpurchasean accessory metal smoker box, a small perforated metal containerplaced on a gas grill’s lava rocks or ceramic briquettes to hold woodchips and provide smoke. It can also be used on the grill rack of acharcoalgrill.Ifyoudon’twanttopurchaseasmokerbox,youcanputsoakedwood chips in heavy-duty foil, seal and poke holes in the top,andplaceonthehotbriquettes,rocks,orcoals.

MaintenanceSimplemaintenanceaddsyears to the lifeofagasgrill.Check thegasfitting for leaks each time you connect and disconnect by using amixtureofsoapandwater.Bubbles indicatealeak.You’llalsowanttoperiodicallycheckthetubesconnectingthepropanetanktothegrilltoensure there are no cracks or holes. Regularly empty the grease catchpan to prevent flare-ups and fires. Store the tank outdoors, not in anenclosedspace,anddetachedfromthegrill.

Aftereveryuse,turnyourgrillonhighfor10to15minuteswiththelidclosed.Turnoffthegrillandletitcoolslightly.Loosentheresiduefromthegrillrackwithabrass-bristlebrush.Thisnotonlypreventsstickingbut also helps to prevent flare-ups.When the grill is completely cool,

wipe the inside and outside surfaces of the grillwith a soft cloth andwarm,soapywater.Rinsewithcleanwaterandwipedry.

CHARCOALGRILLSCharcoal grills have either a round or square box construction. Akettlegrill isapopularroundonewithaheavycoverthatcanbeusedforeitherdirectorindirectgrilling.Acharcoalgrateholdscoalsonthebottom, and a grill rack above the coals holds the food. Vents on thebottomandinthelidhelpcontroltemperature(onmostmodels).

BenefitsofCharcoalGrillsCharcoal grills aremore affordable thangas grills, and they can reachhighertemperatures.

BARBECUETERMINOLOGY

Stick burner—Barbecue contestants’ jargon for cooks who use

hardwood as their primary fuel instead of charcoal, charcoal

briquettes,orwoodpellets.

Pellethead—Barbecuecontestants’jargonforcookswhousepellet-

burningbarbecuepits.

WSM—AcronymforWeberSmokeyMountainCookerSmoker.Due

toitsshape,itisalsocalledtheWeberBullet.Itisbuiltfortheslow

andlowbarbecuemethodofcooking.Hotbriquettesareplacedin

thebottom;awaterpanandtworacksformeatfilltheremainder

ofthebullet.MoreinformationontheWSMisontheWeberWeb

pages.

WhattoLookForVentsonboththetopandbottomallowgreatertemperaturecontrol.Usestainless-steel or nickel-plated cooking and charcoal grates (sometimesreferredtoasagrillgratesorgrids).Thegrillshouldhaveaheavy-gaugebowl, a tight-fitting lid, a porcelain-coated finish, sturdy legs andconstruction, and heatproof handles. Look for preassembled orweldedparts,whicharemorestableandlesslikelytorust.

Some charcoal grills include a built-in thermometer, which helps youmaintain the right temperature for the foods you’re cooking.Ahingedgrill rack will give you easier access to replenish coals, which isespecially helpfulwhen you’re barbecuing. An ash catcher underneaththegrillmakescleaningmoreconvenient,andyoucanbuyfireretardantmatstoplaceunderyourgrilltoprotectthegroundbeneathit.

MaintenanceCharcoalgrillsareprettyeasytomaintain.Keepthegrillrackclean,andafterthegrillcools,removetheashestoensureproperairflowthenexttime you grill.When the grill is completely cool, wipe the inside andoutside surfaces of the grill with a soft cloth andwarm, soapywater.Rinsewithcleanwaterandwipedry.Tohelpprotectthebodyfromtheweatherandminimizewhite spotsandoxidation,useapaper towel toapplyalightcoatingofvegetableoiltotheoutsideofthegrillwhileit’scool.Youcanalsobuyawater-resistantcovertoprotectyourgrillwhennotinuse.

HANDYUTENSILSANDEQUIPMENTLong-handled tongs, basting brushes, spatulas, and heavy-duty oven

mittsareusefulfortendingfoodswhilecooking.It’salsoagoodideatokeepanABCfireextinguisherhandy,justincase.

CLEANINGYOURGRILLGRATES

It’s easiest to clean your grill grateswhen they’rewarm. After eachuse, scrub the grates with wire brushes and scrubbers so that they’reclean and ready to go next time you grill. Use brass-wire brushes onstainless-steelgratesandstainless-steelbrushesoncast-irongrates.Youcanalsousecrumpledpiecesoffoiltoremovebuildup.Anotherwaytoclean them is to turnupyourgasgrill tohighorbuildahot fire inacharcoalgrill andcover theentiregratewithheavy-duty foil,weigh itdownwithbricksorrocks,coverthegrill,andlet itburnforabout10minutes.Removethefoilwithtongsanddisposeofit.Hitthegratewithalong-handledbrush,andthecharredbitswillturntopowderthatwillfalloffintothefire.

COOKINGWITHCHARCOALYoucanbuytwodifferentkindsofcharcoal.Charcoalbriquettesmade

ofcompactedgroundcharcoal,coaldust,andstarcharemostcommon.They come in standard and easy-lighting. Easy-lighting briquettes arepretreatedwithalightingsolutionforaquickstartandneedtoburnforonly10minutes before they are ready for grilling.They canbe a realtime-saver, but we don’t recommend them because they can lend apetrochemicalflavortowhateveryouaregrillingorbarbecuing.Youcanalso use lump charcoal, the carbon residue of wood that has beencharred,usuallyintheformoflumps.

Tryoneofthefollowingsetupsfordirectorindirectgrilling.

Fordirectgrilling:Uselong-handledtongstospreadthecoalsevenlyinasinglelayer.Extendthemabout1inchbeyondtheareaofthefood.

Forindirectgrilling:Youneedadisposabledrippanlargeenoughtocoverthesurfacebelowthefood.Useapurchaseddisposablefoilpanormakeyourown(seepage200).Placethedrippaninthecenterofthefirebox.Uselong-handledtongstoarrangethecoalsaroundthepan.

LIGHTINGACHARCOALGRILL

Charcoal grills are easy to start if you know the tricks of the trade.Remove the top grill grate and set it aside. Leave the lower charcoalgrate inthegrill,asyou’llneedtoputthecharcoalontopof that,notdirectlyonthebottomofthebowl.

Thereareseveralwaystolightthecharcoal.Thebestandeasiestwayforhomegrillingistouseachimneystarter.Youcanstuffthebottomofthechimneystarterwithpaper,turnthechimneyover,putitonthefiregrate,fillitwithbriquettes(around92inastandardchimney),andsetthepaperonfire.Thefirewillthenmovetothecoals.Oncethecoalsareashgray (20 to30minutes),usea fireproofgloveormitt tograsp thechimneyhandleanddumpthehotcoalsononeendofthefiregrate.

ThewayPaul likes to lighthis fires is tousea smallpropane torch,available at most major hardware stores; it’s also known as a weedburner. Mound the coals in the center of the grill, follow the torchmanufacturer’s instructions for lighting the torch, and hold it on thecoalsuntiltheyignite.Oncethecoalshavepreheated,uselong-handledtongs to distribute the coals how you want them. Or you can use anelectricstartertolightcoals.Todothis,placethestarterinthecoalsandheatforthemanufacturer’ssuggestedtime.Unplugthestarter,removeitfromthecoals,andplace itonaheatproofsurfaceawayfromchildrenand pets to avoid accidental burns. Distribute the coals when you’rereadytocook.

Usinglighterfluidisaverypopularwaytolightyourfire,andthat’stheonly reasonwemention it. It’s thevery lastwaywewould lightabarbecue fire because it usually leaves a petrochemical taste on allcookedproducts.Tolightthecoalsusingfluid,arrangetheminamoundin the center of the firebox. Add lighter fluid according to themanufacturer’sdirections.Letstandforabout1minuteandthenignitewith amatch. Never addmore lighter fluid after the fire has started.Oncethecoalsareready,uselong-handledtongstodistributethemforcooking. You can also light your charcoal fire or chimneywith gelledalcohol starter, such as Sterno, or just crumpled newspaper. If using achemical fire starter, make sure all chemical residue has burned offbeforeputtingthemeatinthekettle.

Once the coals are lit, allow them to heat for 20 to 30minutes (10minutes for easy-lighting) or until they turn ash gray in daylight orglowingredatnight.Whenthecoalsareready,useanovenmitttocloseany two of the three vent holes in the bottom of the kettle. This letsoxygenin,whichfuelstheflame.Rubvegetableoilonthegrillgrate(orsprayitwithnonstickcookingspray)andputitinthekettle.Placethemeatopposite thehotcoals. Ifusingwoodchips,drain thewater fromthem and dump them atop the hot coals. Put the lid securely on thekettlewithlidventsopen.

Youcanmonitortemperaturewithathermometerinthelidventhole,and you canmaintain your desired temperature by controlling oxygenintake to coals by adjusting bottomvent holes.More airmeans faster,hotter cooking. Less air allows for slower cooking. If you’re directgrillingwithanuncoveredgrill,charcoalbriquetteswillburnfor40to45minutes,asageneralrule. Ifyouleavethelidon,mostkettlegrillswill hold a steady temperature of 225° to 275°F for at least six hours.Avoidliftingthelidtocheckthemeat,asthiswillprolongthecookingtime.Turn itemsonlyonce(halfwaythroughcookingtime).Whenyoumustliftthegrillcover,liftittothesideratherthanstraightup—suctionmayotherwisedrawashontothefood.

Tokeepthegrillgoingforseveralhours,you’llprobablyneedtoaddmore charcoal. It’s best to maintain a constant temperature whilebarbecuing, and you can do that by adding hot coals instead of freshbriquetteswhenyouneed to refuel. Justbeforeyouput thegrill grateoveryourfirstbatchofcoals,removetwoandplacetheminthebottomofachimneystarter.Thenfillthechimneystarterwithfreshbriquettesandset itasideonaheatproof surface, suchasconcreteorbricks (notasphalt),sothatitcanpreheatwhileyouputyourmeatonthegrill.Bythe time you need to add more coals to your fire, the coals in thechimneyshouldbepreheatedandreadytogo.

GRILLTHERMOMETERS

Agrillthermometerisahandytoolwhenbarbecuing.Aneasyway

to modify your grill is to take a wine cork and drill a hole the

diameterofyourthermometerthroughthemiddleofthecorkfrom

toptobottom.Fitthecorkintooneofthetopgrillvents,andpush

the thermometer through thehole in the cork.Thatwayyou can

constantlymonitortheinternaltemperatureandyourthermometer

won’t touch the metal of the grill, which could give you an

inaccuratereading.

Cookingtimeswillvarydependinguptypeandweightofmeat.Don’tleaveyourgrillunattendedwhileit’slit.Whenthemeatisdone,removeit from the grill and let it rest for 5 to 15 minutes before slicing,chopping,orpulling.

COOKINGWITHGASYouwillwanttorefertoyourowner’smanual forspecificdirections

fordirectandindirectcookingonagasgrill.

In general, for indirect cooking on a two-burner gas grill, afterpreheatingwithbothburners,youwillturnoffoneburnerandplacethefoodovertheunlitside,awayfromtheheatsource.Forthree-burnergasgrills,youwillturnoffthemiddleburnerafterpreheatingandplacethefoodinthecenterofthegrill.Drippansarerequiredforfoodsthathavejuices,suchasroastsandribs.Thefoodisplacedonarackinaroastingpan,andtheroastingpanissetonthegrillrack.Thelidofthegasgrillisthenclosedforgrilling.

LIGHTINGAGASGRILLAswithacharcoalgrill,it’sagoodideatolightlycoatyourcleangrill

grateswithalittlebitofvegetableoilornonstickcookingspray.Besuretofollowyourowner’smanualwhenlightingagasgrill.Beforestarting

yourgasgrill,openthelidandturnalltheburnercontrolknobstooff.Turnthegasonatthesource.Fromthispointyoushouldrefertoyourowner’s manual for specific lighting instructions. After lighting yourgrill, close the lid and preheat the grill on high for 10 to 15minutes.Again, you will want to refer to your owner’s manual for therecommended preheating time and instructions for adjusting the heatwhileyou’recooking.Avoidliftingthelidwhileyou’regrilling,asthatwillprolong thecooking time.When themeat isdone, remove it fromthe grill and let it rest for five to fifteen minutes before slicing,chopping,orpulling.

TIP

YOU CANHELP KEEP YOURMEATMOISTWHILE COOKING BYSPRITZING IT WITH APPLE JUICE, WHICH WON’T CHANGE THEFLAVOROFTHEFINISHEDMEAT.

AVOIDINGFLARE-UPSSometimesmeatjuicesdripintothecoals,briquettes,orrocks,causing

flare-upsthatcanburnyourmeat.Flare-upscan,infact,wreckagreatmealinseconds.

Toavoidflare-upswhenbarbecuing,placethemeatoppositethehotcoals,briquettes,orrocks.Thiscreatesacoolzonesothatyoucanmovemeat back and forth from flames to cool zone as necessary. Trimmingexcess fat from themeatalsohelpsprevent flare-ups.Youcanalso trylowering the heat by raising the grill rack and spreading the coals sothereismorespacebetweenthem.Oryoucanremovesomeofthecoalsorcoverthegrill.

WOODS

Naturalwoodchipsandchunkscanbeaddedtoafiretoimpartasmoky flavor to food as it cooks. Alder, apple, cherry, hickory,

maple,mesquite,oak,andpecanarecommonlyused.Thechipsare

soaked in water, drained well, and added to a fire just before

puttingfoodonthegrill.Inkettlegrillsorgasgrills,water-soaked

wood chips ordry smokepelletsworkbest. Large cookerswith a

fireboxonthesidetakewelltowoodlogsorchunks.

We encourage the use of the hardwoods available locally. In the

PacificNorthwest,thatwouldbealder.IntheMidwestandSouth,

hickory, pecan, and oak. In the Southwest, mesquite. In the

Northeast,maple.Also check for availability in your area of fruit

woodssuchasapple,peach,cherry,andpear.Ifyou’repartialtoa

certainwoodthatisn’tlocal—say,you’reaTexanlivinginMaine—

no problem. Barbecue woods of any variety can be shipped

worldwide from a variety of suppliers. Call your local barbecue

supplystoreorsearchonline.

Forexcessiveflare-upsinacharcoalgrill,youmayneedtoremovethemeatfromthegrillandmisttheflameswithawater-spraybottle.Oncethe flames die down, you can return the food to the grill and resumegrilling. Do notmist flare-ups on a gas grill. Simply close the lid andwait for the flare-up to die down. Some lava rock systems can collectgreasethatmayresultinflare-ups,sobeespeciallywatchfulwhenusingthem,andchangethemonceaseasonifyouuseyourgrillalot.Whenyouopenyourpropanetankvalve,itmighthelptoturnitonlyoneturnsothatyoucanturnitoffinahurryintheeventofaflare-up.

TESTINGGRILLTEMPERATUREMostgrillshavethermometers,andifyoursdidn’tcomewithone,you

can purchase one. If you plan to do a lot of barbecuing, it’s a good

investment.Ifyoudon’thaveagrillthermometer,youneedtobeabletojudgehowhottheheatiscomingfromyourgrill,becausenotallfoodsarecookedat thesametemperature.Holdyourhand,palmsidedown,whereyourfoodwillcookandatthesameheightasthefoodthatwillbegrilled.Countby saying, “one thousand-one,one thousand-two” foreachsecondyoucanholdyourhandthere.

1second(orless)=VeryHotFire—600°Forhigher

2seconds=HotFire—550°–599°F

3seconds=Medium-HotFire—500°–549°F

4seconds=MediumFire—400°–499°F

5seconds=Low-MediumFire—301°–399°F

6seconds(ormore)=LowFire—300°Forless

Theseareroughestimatesandcanvarydependingonwhereyouplaceyourhand.For example, theremaybemoreheat inone location thananother.

TESTINGFORDONENESSA meat thermometer guarantees perfectly cooked meat every time.

Insert themeat thermometer into thecenterof the thickestpartof theuncookedmeat.Thethermometershouldnottouchanyfat,bone,orthegrill.Thechartonpage211givessuggesteddonenesstemperaturesforavarietyofmeats.Whenthemeatreachesthedesireddoneness,removeitfromthegrill.Letitstandforabout15minutesbeforeslicing.Thiswillmakethemeateasiertoslice.

Ifyoudon’thaveameatthermometer,thefollowingaregeneralcuesformeatdoneness:

Rare doneness: The center should be bright red, raw, and roomtemperature. This is generally not considered to be safe, as the meatdoesnotgethotenoughtokillanygermsorbacteriathatmaybeinit.

Medium-rare doneness: The center of themeat should have a brightredcolorandbeslightlyspringywhenpressed.Thisisnotrecommendedforveal,pork,orgroundmeats.

Medium doneness: For this doneness, the center of the meat shouldhave a slightly pink to red color. The meat will be slightly firm andspringywhenpressed.

Medium-welldoneness:Thecenterofthemeatshouldhaveverylittlepinkcolorandbefirmandspringywhenpressed.

Welldoneness:Thecenterof themeatshouldhavenopinkcolorandbefirmwhenpressed.

BARBECUETERMINOLOGY

Rub—A dry spice or a combination of dry spices, from salt and

pepper, to any concoction you can dream up to seasonwhatever

you are going to barbecue or grill. It is also known as a dry

marinade. Always season the food with dry rubs before cooking,

notduringorafter.

Sauce—A seasoned liquid barbecue condiment. Popular bases are

tomato,vinegar,andmustard; soysauce,mayonnaise,andpureed

fruitarealsoused.

Marinade—A marinade is a liquid solution that you soak foods,

particularly meats, in before cooking. A marinade adds flavor to

foods and makes them somewhat tender by beginning the

breakdown process of cooking. The seasonings you add to a

marinadearecarriedintothefoodbyuseofanacidicingredientin

themarinadesuchasvinegarsorfruitjuices.Itisimportanttohave

thisacidicbasenotonlytodothesethingsbutbecauseitprotects

the food from the formation of harmful substances of the surface

whilecooking.Marinadesareparticularly importantanduseful in

grilling because of the high, intense heats produced by grills.

Alwaysmarinatefoodsintherefrigeratortopreventbacteriafrom

forming.Donotbaste themeatwithusedmarinade.Discard it to

avoidbacterialcontamination.

Sops,Mops, andBastes—Sops,mops, andbastesare reallyall the

same thing. They are liquid agents to keep your barbecuedmeat

moist. They all got their name by their delivery systems. In the

earlydaysofbarbecuing,themeatwasdryingoutandtherewasa

needtogetsomemoistureonthemeat.Sotheyconcoctedaliquid

they thoughtwouldnotonlykeep themeatmoistbutwouldalso

flavorit.TheygotGrandma’scleanragsanddippedthemintothe

concoction and sopped themeat to keep itmoist. Then came the

littledishmop,sotheyusedacleanoneandmoppedtheliquidon.

Then it became a baste, and now most barbecuers use a spray

bottletodeliverthemoisture.

Brine—Asolutionoffreshwater,salt,andsugar.Meatissoakedin

brine in the refrigerator forvarying lengthsof time,basedon the

sizeofmeatcuts.Somebrinerecipesaddsugarandotherspicesto

thesalt. Individual recipesvary. It isbelieved thatbrinedmeat is

moremoistandflavorfulthanmeatthathasnotbeenbrined.

BASICDIRECTIONSFORBARBECUEDMEATSomeof the recipes in this book call for barbecue in a salad, bakedpotato, or other dishes. Here’s some basic guidance for readers whodon’t have a favorite barbecue joint nearby, or who want to cookbarbecue at home. Follow the step-by-step procedures below, varyingcookingtimesasfollows:

PorkShoulder:8ormorehoursuntiltender.

BeefBrisket:12ormorehoursuntiltender.

WholeChicken:1½to2ormorehoursuntildone.

Sausages:45minutesto1houruntildone.

Preparemeatsasfollows:

Ifyouliketoseasonmeatbeforecooking,useyourfavoriteruborthisall-purposerub:

ALL-PURPOSERUB

2partsgroundblackpepper

1partkoshersalt

1partgranulatedgarlic

Stirtheingredientstogether.Sprinkletherubonthemeatlightly,

theeveningbeforeorpriortoputtingmeatinthegrill.

PORKSHOULDERSold as the leg portion (arm shoulder) or upper, blade shoulder(Bostonbutt).Thelatterispopularwithbarbecuers.

To prepare pork shoulder, little if any trimming is needed. Sprinklethemeatwith rub. Cook fat side up at 225° to 250°F for 2 hours perpounduntiltender.Cookstakeprideincookingabuttsotenderthattheshoulderbladecanbepulledoutwithease.

BEEFBRISKETFor best results get awhole (7-to 10-pound) brisket in Cryovac. Dominimaltrimmingoffat.Sprinkleallsurfaceslightlywithrub.Cookfatside up at 250° to 275°F for 10 to 12 hours or more, until tender.Remove from thegrill and let sit for30minutesbefore slicingagainstthegrain.

WHOLECHICKENDecide if you want to barbecue the chicken whole intact or flat,spatchcock. The latter will take less time. For spatchcock preparation,refertotheB’sBarbecuerecipeonpage110.Forwholechicken,lightlysprinkle itwith rub, and place it upright in the grill, opposite the hotcoals.Coverthegrillandcookat125°to150°Ffor1½to2hoursuntil

done.

SAUSAGECooking times will vary by type of meat in the sausage, size, andwhether the sausage is raw or smoked. If it’s smoked, it’s enough tosimplyheatitinamicrowave,conventionaloven,orskillet.

Ifit’snotalreadysmoked,you’llneedtocookitlonger,andagrillorpitisagreatwaytodoit.Topreventsausagesfromburningonthegrill,precookorpoach the sausages inwaterbeforebarbecuing.Todo this,puttheminbarelysimmeringwaterandpoachfor20to30minutes.Becareful not to cook them too fast or the skins will burst. Grill theprecookedsausagefor5to10minutesovermedium-hotheat(seepage206). This will heat the sausages through, giving them color and asmokyflavor.

SOYOUWANTTOSTARTABARBECUEBUSINESS?

Many backyard pitmasters and championship barbecue contestwinners have taken the leap to make barbecue their full-time

business.Somehavesucceeded.Manyhavenot.

Beyondtakingarealitycourseinsmallbusinessdevelopmentfrom

yourlocalServiceCorpsofRetiredExecutives(SCORE)andreading

theself-helpbooksthattellyouhowtodevelopavisionstatement

and business plan, we strongly advise would-be barbecue

entrepreneurstotalkwithotherswhoareorhavebeensuccessful

inthebusiness.Weaskedsome,andhere,withsomeadviceofour

own,iswhatweheard:

“Goseeavery,verygoodpsychiatrist,”saysPaul.

Haveenoughmoneytoliveonforatleasttwoyears.

You have to know that it is a very competitive

business—muchmoresothaninthepast.Thesedays

it’shardtocrackanewrestaurant.

Thinktwiceandathirdtimeafterthat.

Don’t go the family route when hiring help.

Sometimes it works out for the better, but often it

doesn’t.Good-qualitypeoplearehardtofind.

Ifyoudon’thave twoofyou,don’tdo it. “If I could

findanotherme,I’dhirehim,”saysJohnnyWhite.

The right amount of start-up capital is important.

Todayyouneedabare-bonesminimuminvestmentof

$300,000.

Planning and learning from mistakes is important.

Paul says, “This is not only important; it is

paramount.”

You need business savvy and need to know how to

keepupwithtaxesandlocal,state,andfederalrules.

It’s a labor of love. “I like it,” says Johnny White.

“That’swhyI’mstillhere.Ifyoudon’tlikeit,don’tdo

it.”

Ifyou’remarried,remembertoputfamilyfirst.Ifyou

marrythejob,youcanloseyourfamily.Learnhowto

trainanddelegate.

We’re not saying don’t do it. Just do the important self-

examinationandresourcedevelopmentbeforeyoutaketheleap!

Rememberthesegoldenruleswhencookingsausages:

Cooksausagesslowlytoensurethattheskindoesn’tburst.

Neverprickagood-qualitysausage,as thecasinghelpstoretainmoisture.

Cut the links between the sausages cleanly with a sharpknife. When cooked, a sausage should be cooked rightthroughbutstilljuicyandsucculentandnotcharred.

Formore information on grilling sausages, you can also refer to theMeyer’s Elgin Smokehouse recipe on page 82 or the Black’s Barbecuecookingprocedureonpage38.

THEBASICSOFMEATFORBARBECUE

PORKRIBBASICSBabybacks:Loinbackribs.Thetermisoftenappliedtoanysizeslabofloinbackribs,butatruebabybackribslabis1¾poundsorless.

Spareribs:The intact rib section removed from thebelly;may includecostalcartilageswithorwithoutthebrisketbone(breastbone)removedanddiaphragmtrimmed.Aslabofspareribsshouldhaveatleastelevenribs.

St. Louis-style ribs: Spareribs prepared by removing the brisket boneparalleltotheribside,exposingcartilageonthebrisketboneside.Skirtmeatisusuallyremoved.Iflefton,theoutsideedgeoftheskirtshouldbetrimmed.

Skinned:Themembraneontheback,orboneside,of theribslabhas

beenremoved.

Longend:Thefirstsixribsfromthebreastboneend.

Shortend:Themeatierribsfromnumber7totheendoftheslab.

Wet:Ribsservedwithbarbecuesauceonthem.

Dry:Ribsservedwithadryrubonthem.

Shiners:Bonesthatshowthroughthemeat.

PORKBUTTBASICSPorkbutt/shoulder/ham:Aporkbuttisthetophalfofaswine’sfrontlegs;thebottomhalfisknownasthepicnic.Thetwopiecestogetherareknown as the pork shoulder; both picnic and shoulder have the feetremoved.Thehamsarethebacklegsofthepigwiththefeetremoved.

Bark:Barkisthecrustontheoutsideofthepieceofmeatthatyouarebarbecuing,whichdevelopswiththelongbarbecuingprocess.

Bone in/boneout: Pork shoulders can be purchased boneless orwiththeboneblade in. It is amatter of pride and accomplishmentwhen acook’sshoulderissotenderthatthebonecaneasilybepulledoutwhenthemeatisdone.

Brown and white: The outside of a barbecued shoulder is dark, orbrown,fromcooking.Pastthebarkthemeatislight,orwhite.Youcanorderbrownonly,whiteonly,oramixofbrownandwhite.

FOODDONENESSANDTEMPERATURE

Sliced, pulled, or chopped: Refers to pork or any barbecued meat.Slicedmeat iscutacross thegrainof themeat fora tendercut.Pulled

meathasbeencookedto195°–205°Fandshreddedwiththegrainofthemeat.Youcanusetwoheavy-dutydinnerforkstodothis,oryoucanuseyourhands,wearingheavy-duty rubbergloves.Somecooks like touseheavy-duty plastic “claws” to pull pork. Chopped meat is cooked to185°Fandchoppedacrossthegrainintosmallpieces.

Carolina style: Barbecued pork shoulder is the meat of choice inwestern North Carolina, compared to the preference for whole hog ineastern North Carolina. Some places serve pulled pork. Others servechoppedpork.Texturerangesfromcoarselychoppedtofinelychopped.Thelatterisdonebyspecialrequest.

BRISKETBASICSAnatomy:Acutofbeeftakenfromthebreastsectionunderthefirstfiveribs. Brisket is usually sold without the bone and is divided into twosections.Theflatcuthasminimalfatandisusuallymoreexpensivethanthemoreflavorfulpointcut,whichhasmorefat.Brisketrequires long,slowcookingandisbestwhenbarbecued.

Flat/point:The flatcutor first cut is the leanpartof thebrisket.Thepoint,ordeckle,isthefatendandisthetastierpartofthebrisket.

WJOINTSWELIKETOVISIT

e’velivedalmostourwholelivesinbarbecue,travelingthecountry to participate in and judge contests, visitingrestaurantsinfar-offplaces,writingbooksandarticles,and

talkingtoallkindsofpeopleaboutbarbecue.Consequently,itwasarealchallenge to single out our top 100 places. The following places areplacesweliketogo,andweenjoythem,butforsomereasonoranothertheydidn’tmake the list of100.Maybe theyhadanoffdaywhenwevisited,ormaybewecouldn’tagreeonthem,butallhavetheirfans,anditwouldberemissofusnottomentionthem.

ANGUSPITSTOP608S.ServiceRd.Calera,OK74730580-434-7867

You’llfindAngusPitStopoffHighway69,onlytenmilesbeyondtheRed River when you’ve crossed over from north Texas to southernOklahoma.Youmaythinkyouhaven’tleftTexasattheAngusPitStop,however.LikethejointsincentralTexasandelsewhere,youchooseyourmesquite charcoal smokedmeats from a holding pit, and then they’reslicedandweighed.Meatsincludebrisket,porkchops,sausage,chicken,spare ribs, tri-tip, andham.Grote, “TheBoss,”hasbeen slow smokingbarbecuesincethelate1970s,andyoucantellbythetendersmokinessthathehaslearnedathingortwoaboutbarbecueovertheyears.Makeroom for a tasty hot cobbler or other dessert prepared by Diane, acertifiedgourmetcook.

BBQPETE’S6621S.211thSt.,Ste.106Kent,WA98032

425-251-0778http://bbqpetes.com

We’regladBBQPete’sisback,thankstoPete’sson,Ryan.ItwasasaddayforuswhenPeteretiredin1995.NowtheBBQPete’sreincarnationis serving the same great-quality barbecue pork, beef, ribs, chicken,links,andsidesthatweenjoyedfromthe1970s.

COUCH’SCORNERBAR-B-Q5323E.NettletonAve.Jonesboro,AR72401870-932-0710http://www.couchsbbq.com

WhenourtravelstakeusanywherenearJonesboro,wemakesurewestop at Couch’s for a chopped pork sandwich. Someday we’ll try theCouchPotato,iffornootherreasonthanwelikethename.

CORKY’S5259PoplarAve.Memphis,TN38119901-685-9744http://www.corkysbbq.com

OurfavoriteCorky’sistheoriginalonPoplarAvenue.Itisoneofthemostpopularbarbecue joints in town,andyou’llknowwhywhenyoudinethere.Weespeciallylikethewetribswithbeansandfries.

COZYCORNER

COZYCORNER745N.ParkwayMemphis,TN38105901-527-9158http://www.cozycornerbbq.com

We love the Cornish hen, baloney, and rib tips. Although we stillreally miss the presence of the late Ray Robinson, we know he’d beproudthathiswife,Desiree,continuestheCozyCornerlegacy.

EARLQUICK’SBAR-B-Q1007MerriamLn.KansasCity,KS66103913-236-7228

http://www.quicksbbqandcatering.com

You can tell that Ron Quick, pitmaster/proprietor, learned hisbarbecue lessonswell from his dad, Earl Quick, and the late AnthonyRiekeofRosedaleBarbequefame.Onehundredpercenthickory-smokedbarbecue,slabspecialsonWednesdays, friendlyservice.Whatcouldbebetter?

JETHRO’SBBQ3100ForestAve.DesMoines,IA50311515-279-3300http://www.jethrosdesmoines.com

Ardie’s college roommate, TheRev.RonOsborne, told us about thisplace, andwe’re glad he did! Try the baby backswith Carolina sauceandthesmokedchickenwithAlabamawhitesauce.Ifyouguessedfrom

the name that the joint andmenu are built on a hillbilly theme, youguessedright.

PORKY’SBAR-BQ1056IndianPointRd.Branson,MO65616417-338-9173

PitmasterRichardFent learnedtheartofbarbecueinhishometown,OklahomaCity,andtheBransonareaisthebetterforit.Fromthissmallroadsidejointwithlimitedseatinginsideandout,Mr.Fentservessometop-notchhickory-smoked ribs andpulledporkwith sweet potato friesandcornonthecob.

CHARLIEVERGOS’RENDEZVOUS

52S.SecondSt.

Memphis,TN38103

901-523-2746

http://www.hogsfly.com

CharlieVergosisaMemphisicon.Revenuefromtheboxcarloadsofcharcoal-cookedporksoldatCharlie’sRendezvousandthrough

theWebsite isbetter thana license toprintmoney.Charlie’s son

NickandhissiblingsruntherestaurantnowwhileCharlietakesa

well-deservedrest.ThefamousRendezvousbabybackribsarewet

ordry.Wetiswithliquidsauce.DryiswithwhatCharliecalls“dry

sauce,” his special blend of dried herbs and spices. There’s also

pulledpork sandwichesand lambribs,with sidesofcoleslawand

beans.

Charlie opened the world-famous Rendezvous in 1948 after

cleaning out a basement below his diner, where he discovered a

coal chute. The coal chute gave him a vent for his considerable

talentoveragrillandallowedhimtoexpandfromhamandcheese

sandwichestoribs.Andthusalegendwasborn.

The restaurant is downtown and easy to find once you find the

PeabodyHotel.TheRendezvousisacrossthestreet,downthealley,

inthebasement.Thetablesarefullofdinersanimatedbythegreat

food and friendly service. The walls are covered with enough

memorabilia, implements, and other stuff to stock an entire flea

marketmall.Downanalley,inabasement,acoalchuteforavent

—the last place you’d expect to find a barbecue goldmine. Talk

aboutovercomingtheodds!

You can get Charlie’s ribs delivered to your door, or buy his dry

seasoningandwetsauce,charcoal-grillsomebabybacks,andapply

theseasonings—dry,wet,orboth.

RJ’SBOB-BE-QUESHACK5835LamarAve.Mission,KS66202913-262-7300http://www.rjsbbq.com

RJ’s has an excellent all-around menu and a friendly atmosphere.CertifiedExecutiveChefBobPalmgrenisFrenchtrained.Aftersuccessful

gigs in some of Kansas City’s finest restaurants, he caught barbecuefever,andhismanyfansaregladhedid.Paullikestomeetthereforthecountrybreakfastsonweekends.Ardieisafanoftheporkbuttburgers.

ROSEDALEBARBEQUE600SouthwestBlvd.KansasCity,KS66103913-262-0343http://www.rbjb.com/rbjb/restaurants/rosedale.htm

The oldest continuously operated barbecue joint in Kansas City stilloffers themost barbecue for yourmoney. Beer is no longer served inbucketslikeitwasinthe1930s,butyoucangetaquartbottleofbeertoenjoywithyourfeast.

SMOKIN’GUNS1218SwiftAve.NorthKansasCity,MO64116816-221-2535http://www.smokingunsbbq.com

PhilandLindaHopkinsknowtheirwayaroundthebarbecuepit,andtheyhavetheawardsandsatisfiedcustomers toprove it.Mostnotableamongtheirmanyawardsisthe1999GrandChampionshipattheJackDaniel’sWorldChampionshipInvitationalBarbecue.“TheJack,”asitiscalledinthebarbecuenetwork,isthemostprestigiousbarbecuecontestin the world. We can’t go near North Kansas City without grazing atSmokin’Guns.Onyourfirstvisit,shareacomboplatterwithbabybacks,brisket, pulled pork, and chicken, with beans and onion rings on theside.Youwon’thaveroomfordessert,buttakehomesomepeachcrisptoenjoylater.

SJOINTSWE’DLIKETOVISIT

ometimes when we look back on our travels, we think of thatJohnnyCashsong“I’veBeenEverywhere.”Butsurprisingly,therearestillafewbarbecuejointswehaven’tvisited,eventhoughour

barbecue buddies have been singing their praises for years. Thefollowingare just a fewwehope tomake it to soon, andwhoknows,maybethey’llbeinafutureeditionofAmerica’sBestBBQ.

CIRCLEM345MartinSausageRd.Liberty,SC29657864-375-9133

OurbarbecuebuddyRonnyLarktoldusaboutCircleM,andhemadeitsoundsogoodwewantedtohoponaflyinghogjettoSausageRoadimmediately.We haven’t caught that hog yet, but Circle M is on ourbucketlist.

CRAIG’SU.S.70WestDeVall’sBluff,AR72041870-998-2616

Ardie is a longtime fan ofCraig’s grainy vinegar-based saucewith acitrus accent, hot ormild. Craig’s has a reputation for great barbecuethatwe’reeagertotry,alongwithpiefromthePieShopacrosstheroad.TherestaurantstillhasawallthatprovidedforsegregateddiningwhenJimCrowwasthelaw.

GRADY’SBARBECUE

3096ArringtonBridgeRd.Dudley,NC28333919-735-7243

Not to be confusedwith Grady’s in the TexasHill Country, anotherplace we want to try, this joint is in North Carolina. Pronounced“Graddy’s,”StephenandGeraldineGrady’sverypopular joint isoneofthe stops on the North Carolina Barbecue Society BBQ Trail. OurbarbecuebuddyCarlRothrocktoldusGrady’sisnottobemissed,soit’sonourmust-dolistforthenexttriptoNorthCarolina.It’sawholehogplacewith“zing”inthesauce,andeverythingismadefromscratch.TheGradyshavebeendoingbarbecuesince1986,soweknowthey’redoingitright.

MOORE’SOLDETYMEBARBEQUE36711Dr.M.L.KingJr.Blvd.NewBern,NC28562252-638-3937http://www.mooresbarbeque.com/

Wewere inNewBernonastormySunday, theonedayof theweekMoore’sisclosed.Toourregret,wecouldn’treturnforswinediningatMoore’sthenextdayorlater.Weweretoldwemissedsomeofthefinestchopped pork with slaw and hushpuppies this side of hog heaven.TommyMoore’sparents,JohnandDot,wouldbeproudthatTommyiscontinuingtheMoorelegacythattheystartedbackin1945.

PAYNE’SBAR-B-Q

1762LamarAve.Memphis,TN38114901-272-1523

Although we’ve been inMemphis many times, we have yet to visitPayne’s. We’ve heard so much praise of it, however, that it’s on our“must try” list for the next trip to Hog Heaven on the banks of theMississippi.

SHEALY’SBAR-B-QUE340EastColumbiaAve.Batesburg-Leesville,SC29070803-532-8135http://www.shealysbbq.com/

Shealy’smustard-basebarbecuesaucehasbeenoneofArdie’sfavoritesfor years.While en route to Shealy’s by way of Columbia one fatefulWednesday,hecalled fordirections,onlyto findthat theywereclosedthatday.Anotherjointthatgotawaybutisnotforgotten.

SIMSBAR-B-QUE716W.33rdSt.LittleRock,AR72206501-372-6868http://simsbar-b-que.comKansasCityfriendswhohaveeatenatSimssaywehavetotryit.Therearetwootherlocations,bothalsoinLittleRock.

SNOW’SBBQ516MainSt.Lexington,TX78947

979-773-4640(Saturdayonly)979-542-8189http://www.snowsbbq.com/

How could a barbecue joint that is open only one day a week besuddenly catapulted into worldwide fame? Blame it on some TexasMonthlymagazinestafferswho tried it in2008, liked it,anddubbed itthebestinTexas.Wedon’tknowifthebrisket,sausage,chicken,pork,ribs,potatosalad,coleslaw,andbeansthatMs.TootsieTomanetzservesupatSnow’sarefirstrateornot,butwewanttotrythem.

WHOLEHOGCAFÉ2516CantrellRd.LittleRock,AR72202501-664-5025http://www.wholehogcafe.com

Becky Bryant, Ardie’s friend in the Arkansas Department of Labor,highly recommended this place. Inclement weather blocked our twoattempts to visit. We’ll make it there for a Whole Hog Plate whenfloodingandtornadoesarenotathreat.

PHOTOCREDITS

Most of the images in the bookwere taken by Ardie or Paul duringtheiradventures inbarbecue.Credit isdue for the following:pages ii,viii, 1, 29, 60, 61, 91, 92, 98, 99, 105, 123, 161: Photos by RossWuetherichpage iii: Illustration courtesy ofCharlie Podrebaracpagesvi,vii:PostcardbyKocherPhoto

pages xi, 114, 116, 117: Photos courtesy of Ron, Mary, and GeofBuchholzpagexvi:WelcomePardnerpostcardbyCurteichColorpage5: Curtis All American Bar-B-Q postcard by Jeremy Birch; OklahomaJoe’spostcardbyMWM

pages 12, 13: Photos courtesy of the Brooks family page 21: Photocourtesy of Bob and Ben Kantor page 25: Photo courtesy of FredSauceman

page 28: Bison ribs photo courtesy of Linda Ray page 43: PhotoscourtesyofAmyAnderson

page52:WelcomePardnerpostcardbyCurteichColor;AmericanRoyalpostcardbyMaxBernsteinpage77:AmericanRoyalpostcardbyGeraldMassey; Underwood’s postcard by American Industrial Pictures pages78,79:PhotoscourtesyoftheTuffs

pages86,87:PhotoscourtesyofSandiFordandLynnFord,FordFoodspage88:PhotocourtesyofthePerrins

pages 106, 129: Photos courtesy of Jack Fiorella and Case Dormanpages108,109:PhotoscourtesyofLindaRaypages112,113:Photoscourtesy of Russ Sifers page 121: Photos courtesy of DennyMikeShermanpages122,132,133:PhotoscourtesyofJevVandegriftpage134:PostcardbyColourpicture

page151:PostcardbyMWM

pages 153, 154: Photos courtesy ofN.M.Kelbypage160: Van’s PigStands photos courtesy of Jev Vandegrift; “Checkpoint Chicky” wingsphotocourtesyofRickSchoenbergerpage176:PostcardbytheVernonCo.

page177:CorneredbyaBoarpostcardbyFortMasonArtists(photobyMarcoMeniketti);CurtisAllAmericanBar-B-QpostcardbyJeremyBirch

A

P

ABOUTTHEAUTHORS

rdieA.Davis,alsoknownasRemusPowers,Ph.B.,foundedtheDiddy-Wa-Diddy National Barbecue Sauce Contest in hisbackyard patio in 1984. Three years later the contest became

theAmericanRoyalInternationalBarbecueSauce,Rub&BasteContest.He also founded the Great American Barbecue Sauce, Baste, and RubContest.AchartermemberoftheKCBSandformerthree-termmemberoftheKCBSBoardofDirectors,Ardieisnowaboardmemberemeritus,a certified master judge, and an inductee in the KCBS Hall of Flame(1992).He is also a certifiedMemphis inMay barbecue judge, and in2008,hewasa featured judgeat the20thAnnualJackDaniel’sWorldChampionshipInvitationalBarbecueinLynchburg,Tennessee.

Ardie is a founder of Greasehouse University (1984) and serves aspresident,Diddy-Wa-DiddyBoardofBarbecueattheuniversity.HewasinterviewedandappearedintwoHistoryChannelshows:ModernMarvelsandAmericaEats.He iscurrentlya freelancewriter for theKansasCityStar newspaper, the Kansas City Bullsheet, official newspaper of theKansasCityBarbeque Society (KCBS), and theNational BarbecueNews,which awarded him a Spirit of Barbecue Award in 2003 at the JackDaniel’s World Championship Invitational Barbecue. In 2002, he waspresented with a Judges Choice Award at The Jack Daniel’s WorldChampionshipInvitationalBarbecue.Ardie’spreviousbooksincludeTheGreat BBQ Sauce Book, Kansas City BBQ Pocket Guide, Techniques forGrilling,andTechniquesforSmoking.

aulKirk, a.k.a.BarbecueGuru,AmbassadorofBarbecue,OrderoftheMagicMop,CertifiedMasterBarbecueJudge,memberofthe Kansas City Barbecue Society Board of Directors, and

inducteeintotheKansasCityBarbequeSocietyHallofFlame,haswonover 475 cooking and barbecue awards, among them seven world

championships, including the prestigious American Royal Open, theworld’slargestBBQcontest.

For more than 12 years, Paul has operated the Baron’s School of PitMasters, teaching classes all over the world. He has also trainedbarbecue restaurant staffs across the United States, and conductedseminars at national conventions for The International Association ofCulinaryProfessionals (IACP). In1998and2000,hewasamemberofTheJuliaChildBBQTeamofTenattheIACPconventions,raisingfundsfortheJuliaChildEndowmentFoundation.

Paul’spreviousbooks includePaulKirk’sChampionshipBarbecueSauces,Smokin’, The Big Grill, Paul Kirk’s Championship Barbecue, and 500Barbecue Bites, and he is featured in a whole host of other barbecuecookbooks. He writes monthly columns for Kansas City Bullsheet, theNationalBarbecueNews,andtheGoatGapGazette.PaulhasappearedontheToday Show, Discovery Channel,CBS ThisMorning, Talk Soup, andAnthonyBourdain’sInSearchofthePerfectMeal.HehasbeenfeaturedintheAARP’sModernMaturityMagazine,Saveur,andtheCalgaryHerald.Heis a partner in Righteous Urban Barbecue (a.k.a. RUB) restaurants inNewYork City and Las Vegas. Formore on Paul, visitwww.baron-of-bbq.com.

WhatDidWeMiss?

Is there a jointwedidn’t include that you think deserves to be in thebook?Oraplacewepickedthatyoudisagreewith?VisitourWebsiteatwww.americasbestbbqbook.comandtellusaboutit.