The Reader’s Guide to Outdoor Dining

2005

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22 CHICAGO READER | JUNE 17, 2005 | SECTION TWO | ALFRESCO

Take It OutsideOur Raters’ favorite outdoor-dining destinations

Allen’s: the New American Cafe217 W. Huron | 312-587-9600

F 9.2 | S 8.4 | A 8.0 | $$$$ (15 REPORTS)AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL | LUNCH:MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY |CLOSED SUNDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATUR-DAY TILL 11

rrr Chef Allen Sternweiler presents a sea-sonally changing menu, using local farmproducts whenever possible and only thefreshest seafood. On one visit a firm white-fleshed fish called escolar came bathed ina luscious champagne butter with wildramps, and mango-jicama salsa toppedsome nicely browned crab cakes. A trio ofrabbit includes a tender sauteed loin, abraised leg, and sausage. For the morebasic palate, there’s a grilled Iowa beef fil-let or sauteed diver scallops with mush-rooms and gnocchi. Entree prices are in thehigh 20s to mid-30s; at lunch, salads andburgers run in the midteens. LLS

Basil Leaf Cafe2460 N. Clark | 773-935-3388

F 7.9 | S 7.1 | A 7.1 | $$ (9 REPORTS)ITALIAN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | RESER-VATIONS NOT ACCEPTED | SMOKE FREE

rrr This intimate Italian restaurant is ahaven from the madness on Clark Street inLincoln Park. Details make it feel special:the colorful slices of fruit in your water, thecomplimentary bruschetta that eases youinto a relaxing meal. The menu offersmostly standard pasta dishes, done verywell, and a few house specialties, which areenormous. The salads are large, fresh, andinnovative, including a house mix of fieldgreens, walnuts, and Gorgonzola dressedwith a flavorful balsamic vinaigrette. Over-all the prices are reasonable for the qualityof the experience. Rachel Klein, Rater

Bistro Campagne4518 N. Lincoln | 773-271-6100

F 8.4 | S 7.8 | A 8.1 | $$$ (25 REPORTS)FRENCH | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | SMOKE FREE

rrr Michael Altenberg’s small menu con-centrates on French classics like mussels,onion tart, steak frites, and roast chicken.The wine list offers dozens of clever andunusual selections, most under $50 a bot-tle. The dining rooms are casual but veryattractive, and the outdoor patio is amongthe best in town. Michael Lenehan

Blackbird619 W. Randolph | 312-715-0708

F 9.2 | S 8.6 | A 6.6 | $$$ (20 REPORTS)AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL | LUNCH:MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY |CLOSED SUNDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATUR-DAY TILL 11:30

rrr Paul Kahan continues to dazzle patronswith his French-influenced contemporaryAmerican fare. The endive salad comes withcrispy potatoes, Dijon mustard, pancetta,and a poached egg. Another starter, thesauteed soft-shell crab, comes with basmatirice and orange aioli. The sturgeon is a meatlover’s fish dish: it’s char-grilled and set on abed of white polenta, accompanied by abraised pork shoulder. Carnivores can alsoopt for a seared elk loin, verjus-glazed porkbelly, or hanger steak. The impressive selec-tion of wines can make you dizzy, but thestaff is knowledgeable. Some Raters find thetables too close for comfort and the por-tions a bit small for the price. LLS

Blue Point Oyster Bar741 W. Randolph | 312-207-1222

F 8.5 | S 8.4 | A 7.6 | $$$ (5 REPORTS)SEAFOOD | LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: SEVENDAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

rrr Blue Point serves a broad (if predict-able) menu of fresh, well-prepared fish. The“Prime Seafood” menu category is baffling—it seems to offer the same preparations asthe regular menu but with slightly moredescriptive entries and significantly higherprices. The subdued, dark, contemporary

room needs a burst of energy. Raters praisethe food but say the tabs are high. LLS

Boka1729 N. Halsted | 312-337-6070

F 9.2 | S 8.5 | A 8.7 | $$$ (20 REPORTS)AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL | DINNER:SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAYTILL 11

rrr This clubby restaurant is designed inshades of black and gunmetal (except forthe huge white mesh tarps stretched oddlyacross the dining room ceiling). A frontlounge area, which doubles as an extra dining room on busy nights, is separatedfrom the main room by a long, frequentlypacked bar. Recessed lighting and a mod-ern-rock sound track complete the swankambience. The ambitious menu by chefGiuseppe Scurato (Postrio, Spago, MK)delivers unpretentious and nicely executedsmall and large plates of steamed musselsin saffron-bonito broth; pan-roastedmaple-leaf duck breast with a wild-mush-room ragout; and glazed Atlantic salmonwith shiitakes, napa cabbage, snow peas,bean curd, and a tamari-truffle sauce.About 20 wines are poured by the glassand more than 100 are available by thebottle. LLS

La Fonda Latino Grill5350 N. Broadway | 773-271-3935

F 8.7 | S 7.3 | A 8.3 | $$ (8 REPORTS)LATIN AMERICAN | LUNCH, DINNER: TUESDAY-SUNDAY | CLOSED MONDAY

rrr The bulk of the dishes at this Edge-water eatery are Colombian—includingstarters like the wonderfully crisp spinach-and-mushroom empanadas, delicate are-pas (white corn cakes) topped with mush-rooms and cheese, and morcilla (bloodpudding) with guajillo chile sauce—butMexican and Cuban influences show up, asin the sopa de frijol negro (black beansoup, topped with raw onions and cilantro).Entrees like lengua en salsa roja (beeftongue simmered in a creamy tomatosauce with green peas) and arroz concamarones (yellow rice with shrimp, peas,onions, and peppers) are so generouslyportioned they’d be best shared, perhapswith soup or an order of churrasco (grilledloin of beef served with chimichurri sauceand sweet plantains). To drink there aremargaritas, mojitos, sangria, and a concisebut well-selected list of inexpensive wines,with glass prices ranging from $6 to $8.The servers are genuinely helpful and gra-cious. A lunch buffet Tuesday through Fri-day offers a limited sampling of the dinnermenu for $8. LLS

Four Moon Tavern1847 W. Roscoe | 773-929-6666F 7.6 | S 8.4 | A 6.4 | $ (5 REPORTS)AMERICAN | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS; SATURDAY &SUNDAY BRUNCH | OPEN LATE: THURSDAY-SATURDAY TILL 1; OTHER NIGHTS TILL MIDNIGHT |RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

rrr Raters praise this neighborhood barand actors’ hangout for the cozy ambience(complete with couches, wood paneling, andplenty of kitschy knickknacks), decent beerselection, and comfort-food menu. “Sloppyjoes, meat loaf, chicken strips, and crabcakes—what more could you want from yourlocal tavern?” asks one Rater. The full dinnermenu is available during weekend brunch,and all-you-can-eat fish-and-chips is servedall day Saturday. Holly Greenhagen

The Handlebar2311 W. North | 773-384-9546

F 8.6 | S 7.2 | A 7.8 | $ (20 REPORTS)GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC,VEGETARIAN/HEALTHY | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS;SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH | OPEN LATE: FRI-DAY & SATURDAY TILL 1, OTHER NIGHTS TILL 11 |RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED | SMOKE FREE

rrr Former Goose Island brewer Josh Dethand his partners wanted to open a brewpubbut instead ended up opening this cyclist-friendly restaurant, with bar stools built out ofold tire rims by Blackstone Bicycle Works direc-tor Andy Gregg. A basement lounge outfittedwith couches and a long coffee table is intend-ed to serve as a meeting place for any groupthat wants to use it. The eclectic, veggie-friend-ly menu is “imaginative without being over-done,” says one Rater: there are samosas andstuffed mushroom caps, fish tacos and Africangroundnut stew, tofu and seitan sandwiches,and unusual desserts like plantains Foster. Theback patio’s open all summer. LLS

Hot Doug’s3324 N. California | 773-279-9550F 8.6 | S 7.3 | A 8.0 | $ (6 REPORTS)

AMERICAN | LUNCH: MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSEDSUNDAY | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED | CASHONLY | SMOKE FREE

rrr Closed since a fire last year destroyedits Roscoe Village location, Hot Doug’s hasmoved half a mile west, but it’s got thesame menu: Polishes, brats, Thuringers,andouille, and Chicago-style dogs, dressedand cooked to customer preference—whether char-grilled, deep-fried, steamed,or fried then grilled. There are daily gour-met specials and a “game of the week”sausage—gator, boar, rattlesnake, rabbit,duck, or kangaroo. Fridays and Saturdaysfresh-cut fries are cooked in duck fat, andthe only request owner Doug Sohn willrefuse is to smother them in cheese sauce.Sausagewise he’s planning to expand, de-veloping plated dishes like cassoulet, chou-croute, and sausage chili. Sohn has dupli-cated the goofy decor of the old place,chockablock with Elvibilia and hot-dog-related kitsch. The new space is roomier,with sidewalk seating and plenty of streetparking. Mike Sula

Kaze Sushi2032 W. Roscoe | 773-327-4860F 8.4 | S 9.3 | A 9.0 | $$ (8 REPORTS)JAPANESE | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS

rrr The menu at Kaze, a Roscoe Villagesushi place whose name is Japanese for wind,changes with the seasons. Executive chefMacku Chan (Heat) strives for originality, butoften at the price of clarity and taste. Piecesof amberjack, snapper, and salmon weretopped with the likes of foie gras, pine nuts,and banana peppers; the seafood chowderhad toasted marshmallows on top. There’s a

You Supply the AntsInstant picnics from Pastoral

caprese sandwich with mozzarella, pesto, and tomato;the Bocadilla de la Mancha, which contains serranoham, manchego cheese, quince paste, and grainy mus-tard; the Sinfully Healthy, turkey with creamy Frenchd’Affinois cheese, mango chutney, and mustard onmultigrain bread; and the goat cheese and Siciliancaponata sandwich, with eggplant, celery, grilled zucchi-ni, and artichokes served on a crusty ciabatta roll.

Any sandwich is only as good as its bread;Pastoral’s is made by Jory Downer of Bennison’sBakery in Evanston, whose team won this year’s Coupedu Monde de la Boulangerie, or world cup of baking,in Paris. The contest has been won by an Americanteam only one other time, in 1999. Downer sends half-baked loaves and baguettes to Pastoral twice a week tobe finished in the shop’s oven, from which they emergethroughout the day, warm and golden.

O’Neill and Miller spent the week prior to thesandwich launch tasting samples with their smallstaff, which includes fromagier Daniel Sirko, formerlyof Fox and Obel and Artisan Cellars, and sommelier

Jan Henrichsen, formerly of Bin 36. “Every morningJill [Zenoff, a recruit from Kendall College] wouldcome in and make sandwiches,” says O’Neill, “andthen later in the afternoon we would eat them all. Wewanted to make sure that the sandwiches we chosewould be as good at five in the afternoon as they werewhen they were freshly made.”

The sandwiches continue to be refined according tocustomer preferences: “We lightened up on the pestoon the caprese,” O’Neill says. The goat cheese andcaponata may be going the way of the paté. “It fared theworst out of all of our sandwiches,” he says. “It’s hard topick up; it’s hard to eat. The goat cheese and thecaponata are kind of messy, and I think some peopleare trying to avoid the messy option. So we’re currentlyworking hard at coming up with something new.”

Pastoral opens at 11 AM; it closes at 8 PMTuesday-Friday, 7 on Saturday, and 6 on Sunday. Thestore’s closed on Monday. For a picnic basket, call 24hours in advance. Menus are at pastoralartisan.com.—Kathie Bergquist

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Ken Miller and Greg O’Neill, baker Jory Downer

A ccording to Greg O’Neill, owner of the Lakeviewgourmet-takeout shop Pastoral, a good picniccan’t be complicated. “One of the biggest calami-

ties is when you have all these things that require forksand knives, and it’s messy and disorganized,” he says.“The best picnics are simple and elegant.”

A picnic calamity of his own was the inspiration forPastoral, which he co-owns with his life partner, KenMiller. Two summers ago some of O’Neill’s friendsenlisted him to put together a last-minute picnic for atrip to Ravinia. O’Neill, who lives in Lakeview, foundhimself scrambling around trying to cobble together adecent meal, finally giving up and grabbing a mish-mash from the deli case of his local grocery store. “Itwas pathetic,” he says. “We had this rather old grocery-store pasta salad, some Cryovac cheese. . . . I was tryingas best as I could to pull together something nice, andit turned out like a dog’s breakfast—a little bit of any-thing and everything, and nothing very good.”

O’Neill, who has an MBA from Duke, and Miller,who got his culinary degree from Peter Kump’s NewYork Cooking School, began a period of intenseresearch to determine if a gourmet food store wouldwork in their neighborhood. “We spent our ownmoney and hired some people to interview hundredsof people on the street,” says O’Neill. “We wanted to doour homework. So many small businesses fail becausethey do mother-in-law research, where they have threepeople in a room who say, ‘That’s a great idea.’”

They finally opened Pastoral last August. Duringits first year the store concentrated on picnic fixings:artisanal cheese, wine, and antipasti like handmadesalami, chorizo, paté, and roasted vegetables. “But wehad people come in and . . . I wouldn’t say they werelazy, but they wanted the full solution,” O’Neill says.“‘Why don’t you have picnics ready to go?’” So early

this month he and Miller launcheda line of premade picnic basketsand carryout sandwiches. They alsoadded a small, shaded outdoorseating area. Each Pastoral picnicbasket costs $25, feeds two, andincludes a selection of deli meats,cheeses, olives, fresh bread, oliveoil potato chips, fruit, and sweetssuch as biscotti and sweet olive oil

tortas. Lunch boxes for one cost $13 and include asandwich, chips, olives, cornichons, and dessert.Utensils are provided but not required.

To formulate the sandwich menu, O’Neill did yetmore research, surveying 1,500 Pastoral customers viae-mail about their preferences. The results did not bodewell for liver paté. “Paté is a highly polarizing taste,” hesays. “The people who wanted a paté sandwich reallywanted it—and the other people didn’t want it at all.”The nays won out. More popular selections included a

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PastoralArtisanCheese,Bread &Wine2945 N.Broadway773-472-4781

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Food (F), service (S), and ambience (A) are rated on a scale of 1-10, with 10 representingbest. The dinner-menu price of a typical entree is indicated by dollar signs on thefollowing scale: $=less than $10, $$=$10-$15, $$$=$15-$20, $$$$=$20-$30,$$$$$ =more than $30. Raters also grade the overall dining experience; these scoresare averaged and rs are awarded as follows: rrr=top 10 percent, rrr=top 20percent, rrr=top 30 percent of all rated restaurants in database.

CHICAGO READER | JUNE 17, 2005 | SECTION TWO | ALFRESCO 23

24 CHICAGO READER | JUNE 17, 2005 | SECTION TWO | ALFRESCO

place for sweetness in Japanese food, but inmoderation: when a beautiful fillet of Atlanticblack cod comes on a perfectly cooked bed ofbaby bok choy, does it need to be dressedwith bittersweet chocolate and garnishedwith almond crunch and raspberries? WhenChan restrains his overactive imagination heexcels: his individual nigiri are fresh as can beand his maki expertly rolled. The room isgreen and gold and furnished with plushLouis XIV-style chairs. There’s a shimmeringbacklit sushi bar with fresh grass growingaround the edges and a soothing Japaneserock garden in the front lounge. LLS

Lula Cafe2537 N. Kedzie | 773-489-9554

F 8.1 | S 7.4 | A 7.2 | $ (40 REPORTS)GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC | BREAKFAST, LUNCH,DINNER: WEDNESDAY-MONDAY; SATURDAY &SUNDAY BRUNCH | CLOSED TUESDAY | OPEN LATE:FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11 | RESERVATIONS NOTACCEPTED | SMOKE FREE

rrr At this point I’ve taken dozens of peopleto Lula Cafe, and I don’t say this lightly: it maybe the best neighborhood restaurant inChicago. One side of the menu is dedicated tocheap, surprising, delicious entrees in the $6-$8 range, like the Moroccan tagine: warm cin-namony chickpea stew with chunks of sweetpotato over couscous, with fresh greensstrewn on top. The Tineka sandwich is—of allthings—a spicy peanut butter sandwich withcukes and red onion and lots of other veggies,plus something they call “Indonesian sweetsoy sauce.” There’s beet bruschetta, andpeanut sesame noodles, and a great roastturkey sandwich. Appetizers include a shii-take-spinach quesadilla and a vegetarianmaki. Then there’s a more expensive menu($12-$24), as if the owners just thought,“What the hell, this’ll be fun too.” These itemschange constantly but have included a scal-lops appetizer that makes vegetarians very

sad to be vegetarians, and the GunthorpFarm Chicken al Mattone with garden laven-der, summer-squash risotto, and chanterelles.Everything is handmade and served with anunpretentious attitude. I brought a friendwho’s a professional chef in New York, and hestuck around for hours to order nearly every-thing on the menu. And then we came backthe next night. He loved the variety and origi-nality of the food, and that all this quality wasin the service of being a great neighborhoodrestaurant—a lovely, low-key place designedfor Logan Square residents to walk to for acasual meal, with plenty of street parking foreveryone else. There’s a bar, a decent winelist, fantastic Saturday and Sunday brunch,tons of vegetarian options, produce andmeats bought from nearby farms, and anadorable waitstaff who actually seem to careabout their jobs. Ira Glass

Margie’s Candies1960 N. Western | 773-384-1035

F 8.4 | S 6.7 | A 6.8 | $ (10 REPORTS)AMERICAN | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVENDAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 1,OTHER NIGHTS TILL MIDNIGHT | SMOKE FREE

rrr The legendary ice cream parlor at theintersection of Western, Milwaukee, andArmitage dishes up sundaes with enoughembellishments to satisfy the most de-manding sweet tooth: bananas, cherries,nuts, fluffs of whipped cream, hot fudge ina pitcher on the side. A Chicago institutionsince 1921, the cozy room stuffed with dollsand other knickknacks has transportedmore than one Rater right back to grand-ma’s house. And, as one aptly puts it, “Whoelse but your grandmother would give yousuch a huge bowl of ice cream?” Margie’salso serves a limited menu of diner stan-dards—burgers, fries, grilled cheese—butmost patrons say skip the real food, haveanother dessert. Martha Bayne

McCormick & Schmick’s41 E. Chestnut | 312-397-9500

F 7.9 | S 7.7 | A 8.0 | $$$ (6 REPORTS)SEAFOOD | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPENLATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL MIDNIGHT,MONDAY-THURSDAY TILL 11

rrr This Oregon-based chain arrived in theRush Street area in the late 90s. The ever-changing menu features mostly seafood—flown in daily from around the world andranging from the mundane (sole and white-fish) to the unusual (thresher shark) andincluding everything in between (Alaskanhalibut stuffed with scallops and crab,California sea bass with papaya-mangosalsa). Surf and turf and chicken are alsoavailable, and meals are accompanied bylarge helpings of sides like mashed potatoesand grilled vegetables. Raters complimentthe desserts; opinions of the service varywidely, but in my experience it’s been pro-fessional, knowledgeable, and attentive. Theplentiful wine selection is heavily American.Try to get a table in the back, near the pri-vate curtained booths, for the best serversand the least noise. John Norris, Rater

Menagerie1232 W. Belmont | 773-404-8333

F 8.4 | S 8.4 | A 6.8 | $$$ (10 REPORTS)AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL, GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC | DINNER: WEDNESDAY-MONDAY | CLOSED TUESDAY | SMOKE FREE

rrr While the food may be a bit preciousfor a neighborhood eatery, it’s well thoughtout and elegantly presented. Chefs CraigFass and Mandy Franklin display a Frenchsensibility in dishes like tuna tartare and awild-mushroom tart. Their beet appetizer isalso tempting—half of one of the ruby tubersis hollowed and stuffed with goat cheese,then dotted with a sweet-and-sour balsamicreduction. Entrees on the current menu (it

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changes seasonally) include a clever take onfish-and-chips: thick slabs of tuna wrappedin nori, dipped in tempura batter, and lightlyfried, served with Asian-seasoned potatoesand an aioli flavored with sambal (hot chilepaste). Desserts tend toward the elaborate:there’s fondue for two (with fresh fruit, truf-fles, cookies, cakes, and melted chocolateganache) and mascarpone cheesecake withtangerine gelee served with a tangerinemimosa. The global wine list includes atleast a dozen by the glass, bottles are halfprice on Sunday and Monday, and there’s nocorkage fee if you bring your own. LLS

Nacional 27325 W. Huron | 312-664-2727

F 8.9 | S 8.3 | A 9.0 | $$$ (18 REPORTS)LATIN AMERICAN, CARIBBEAN | DINNER:MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY | OPENLATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

rrr Lettuce Entertain You fuses the cui-sines of 27 Latin American and Caribbean

nations. Chef Randy Zweiban, a disciple ofNorman Van Aken, the master of this “NewWorld cuisine” in Miami, uses ingredientslike plantains, chorizo, yuca, and chipotlechiles in creative and visually appealingways. Mango, passion fruit, and bloodoranges appear in light, fresh desserts;drink selections run the gamut fromBrazilian caipirinhas to Cuban mojitos toPeruvian pisco sours, all of which pack apunch. There’s also a wide selection of winesby the glass. Staff are knowledgeable andaim to please, but some Raters complainabout slow service and bad pacing. OnFriday and Saturday after 11 PM the centerof the room is transformed into a pulsingdance floor with a DJ spinning merengueand salsa. LLS

Naniwa Restaurant607 N. Wells | 312-255-8555F 7.8 | S 8.0 | A 6.7 | $$ (12 REPORTS)JAPANESE | LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: SEVENDAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

rrr Raters love this Bob Bee-owned restau-rant, dropping comments such as “From themoment our waitress brought the hot towelsto the table to the one when I floated out ofthe restaurant, I was in some kind of sushi-induced nirvana.” Specifically recommendedare the Naniwa Salad with its “sublime gin-ger dressing,” the colorful dragon maki—aroll of tempura shrimp wrapped in nori andsurrounded by eel, tuna, and tobiko, all in asweet soy sauce—the yellowtail, salmon, andwhite tuna nigiri, and a steak teriyaki that“melts in your mouth.” The bright diningroom features the traditional blond wood,but the young crowd and loud music givethe place a contemporary buzz. Sitting atthe bar offers a prime view of energetic andenthusiastic chefs assembling the sushi withgrace and efficiency. LLS

Puck’s at the MCA220 E. Chicago | 312-397-4034

F 8.5 | S 7.8 | A 7.3 | $$ (9 REPORTS)AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL | LUNCH:TUESDAY-SATURDAY; SUNDAY BRUNCH | CLOSEDMONDAY | SMOKE FREE

rrr Wolfgang Puck brings his signatureCal-fusion cuisine to the Museum of Con-temporary Art. The dining room is floodedwith natural light from the 30-foot wall ofwindows that looks out on the sculpturegarden. The fare is light and flavorful: thechicken spring rolls are served with a pun-gent garlic-chile sauce; roasted halibut isserved with a white-bean ragout, bacon,and leeks. Sandwiches include a sirloinburger with Vermont cheddar, grilled on-ions, and garlic aioli, and Puck’s signaturewood-grilled pizzas are topped with every-thing from prosciutto and roasted red pep-pers to smoked shrimp with sun-driedtomatoes, leeks, and cilantro. It’s generallycrowded, though one Rater, expecting morefrom the famous name, gripes that it’s “not

close to being a destination in its ownright.” There’s a carryout section at one endof the dining room for art gazers on therun. The extended outdoor patio may bethe best afternoon seat in town. LLS

Red Light820 W. Randolph | 312-733-8880

F 8.4 | S 8.2 | A 8.7 | $$ (20 REPORTS)ASIAN | LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: SEVENDAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL MID-NIGHT, THURSDAY TILL 11

rrr A giant red neon flame on the roofmarks the entrance to an ultramodern roomwhere a see-and-be-seen crowd shouts overa loud, eclectic mix of music. Chef JackieShen (Lawry’s) heads a kitchen serving “fun,not funny, food.” The menu, a collaborationbetween former chef Paul Wildermuth andconsulting chef Arun Sampanthavivat, hasan East-meets-West theme, mixing tradition-al Thai, Chinese, and Vietnamese dishes withthings like seared sesame sea scallops andtangerine-chicken moo shu. Raters think it’sa good value for huge portions of tasty,innovative fare. Several favor the whole cat-fish filleted tableside; others single out themango martinis and a yummy creme brulee.The upstairs party room can accommodate60. LLS

Retro Bistro1746 W. Golf, Mount Prospect | 847-439-2424

F 9.3 | S 8.3 | A 7.3 | $$ (6 REPORTS)FRENCH, GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC | LUNCH:TUESDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY |CLOSED SUNDAY

rrr Inauspiciously located in a MountProspect strip mall, this contemporarybistro is worth the trip. The only retro thingabout it is the decor, which includes photosof 40s and 50s film stars on the walls; thecuisine, while grounded in French classics,

is distinctly modern. Escargots and steaktartare appear beside such global offeringsas wasabi-crusted ahi. Prices are reason-able, including a three-course prix fixemenu at $30.50. The lunch menu includesseveral dinner offerings along with soups,salads, and sandwiches. LLS

Rick’s Cafe Casablanca3915 N. Sheridan | 773-327-1972

F 9.1 | S 8.9 | A 8.6 | $$ (7 REPORTS)FRENCH, ITALIAN, TAPAS/SPANISH | DINNER:TUESDAY-SUNDAY | CLOSED MONDAY | BYO

rrr Eating under the glare of a larger-than-life-size portrait of Humphrey Bogartdoesn’t sound classy, but the mural atRick’s Cafe Casablanca goes well with the

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sensual French, Italian, and Spanish food.Few plates here are over $20, but every-thing looks and tastes opulent. The mashedpotatoes that come with most steaks aresavory and artful, scored to resemble awhite chocolate bar. But the sauces are thereal treat, and the beef seems to be cut inproportion to the richness of the sauce it’spaired with: cream sauce is poured over asmall piece, while a larger slab’s coveredwith a vinaigrette reduction. Lamb is leanand flavorful, fresh linguine with seafood is mouthwatering, and appetizers likemoules marinieres and soupe d’oignon areworth stretching out a meal for (don’tcome here if you aren’t ready to wait forgood food). The rest of the small room is assmooth and dark as Bogart, though friend-lier. It’s BYO, and there’s a liquor storeacross the street, under the Sheridan RedLine stop. Ann Sterzinger

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Rose Angelis1314 W. Wrightwood | 773-296-0081

F 8.4 | S 8.3 | A 7.7 | $$ (30 REPORTS)ITALIAN | DINNER: TUESDAY-SUNDAY | CLOSEDMONDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11 |RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

rrr This Lincoln Park storefront is a peren-nial Rater favorite. The three adjoiningrooms feel intimate even when they’recrowded, and the reasonably priced entreesare so large that doggie bags are the norm.The bruschetta is a rustic version with hugechunks of tomato; pizzas have a nice thincrust, and most entrees are classic pastadishes like linguine with seafood in tomatosauce and a massive eggplant parmigiana ina sweet red sauce. More ambitious are thedelicate duck-filled tortelloni (served withspinach, tomato, and melted mozzarella in acognac reduction) and a somewhat bland

portobello ripiene (with layers of mush-rooms, spinach, and grilled chicken, all cov-ered in balsamic cream sauce). LLS

Roy’s720 N. State | 312-787-7599

F 9.2 | S 8.5 | A 7.8 | $$$$ (17 REPORTS)GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS

rrr Classically trained chef Roy Yamaguchiopened his first namesake restaurant inHonolulu in 1988, serving a style of cuisine hecalled Hawaiian fusion; now his chain has 30locations. This branch, located in a 6,500-square-foot room that seats more than 200,features 20-foot vaulted ceilings, floor-to-ceiling windows, crimson walls hung with strik-ing modern prints, and a central exhibitionkitchen crowded with the largest culinary staffI’ve ever seen. The quality of the service andthe food more than make up for the frenziedatmosphere and the overwhelming scale. Themenu starts off with an assortment of Roy’sclassics executed by chef Tom Hope, a Chicagonative who spent four years training with thecompany in locations from Hawaii to Denver.Roy’s Canoe Appetizer for Two ($25) includesa few of the most popular: coconut-crustedtiger shrimp, jalapeno gyoza, crab cakes, andgoat cheese and portobello ravioli. Entreesgenerally incorporate several seafood options,like delicate misoyaki butterfish in a ginger-wasabi-cilantro cream sauce, plus a handful ofred-meat dishes—recently there was a black-ened filet mignon and a salt-crusted rack oflamb. A good choice for sampling is the mixedplate, which changes regularly; it might com-bine honey-mustard short ribs and butterfishor blackened ahi and lemongrass-crustedshutome (Hawaiian swordfish) in a Thaipeanut-basil sauce. The wine list is outstand-ing, with close to a dozen hard-to-find offer-ings by the glass and several bottles speciallylabeled for Roy’s from such notable vineyards

as Iron Horse, De Loach, and Au Bon Climat.The hot chocolate souffle with fresh seasonalfruit—which has to be ordered at the sametime as the entree—is a must-try for choco-late lovers. Service is attentive and cheerful,although all the alohas can get a bit silly. LLS

Tapas Barcelona1615 Chicago, Evanston | 847-866-9900

F 8.1 | S 7.3 | A 7.0 | $$ (6 REPORTS)TAPAS/SPANISH | LUNCH: MONDAY-SATURDAY;DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY &SATURDAY TILL 11

rrr Raters use words like “typical” and“workmanlike” to describe the food at thislively tapas spot but seem to think thefreshness and generous portions counterthe lack of imagination. The overdone decorcombines bold murals with decorative bot-tles and other Spanish artifacts. There arealso some kid-friendly items on the menu,such as pizza, fettuccine, and the platanocon helado, a Spanish banana split. LLS

A Taste of Heaven5401 N. Clark | 773-989-0151

F 8.9 | S 7.2 | A 6.7 | $ (12 REPORTS)AMERICAN | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER:THURSDAY-TUESDAY | CLOSED WEDNESDAY | OPENLATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11 | SMOKE FREE

rrr This Andersonville cafe and bakerysells an array of rich treats, like raspberrycrumble bars, orange poppy-seed cake,giant sugar cookies, and heavenly miniapple pies, plus breakfast items like Frenchtoast, quiche, and a breakfast burrito andlunch and dinner entrees such as spinachlasagna, chicken potpie, soups, salads, andsandwiches with meat piled high on home-made bread. The room is lovely and spa-cious, with natural light streaming inthrough two walls of windows. LLS

Tre Kronor3258 W. Foster | 773-267-9888

F 8.3 | S 8.3 | A 7.2 | $$ (23 REPORTS)SWEDISH | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY; SUNDAY BRUNCH | BYO | SMOKE FREE

rrr This delightfully decorated room offersauthentic Swedish ambience and bountifulbreakfasts—sublime pancakes, hearty eggdishes, and what some Raters deem “thebest pastries in town.” Specials such as deli-cately flavored quiches round out the morn-ing menu. Later in the day, soups, fresh fishspecials, and tantalizing dishes like duckbreast with lingonberries appear. Prices arereasonable, even at dinnertime, and theservice is excellent. Lauren Brooks, Rater

Va Pensiero1566 Oak, Evanston | 847-475-7779

F 8.8 | S 8.2 | A 7.8 | $$$ (12 REPORTS)ITALIAN | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | SMOKE FREE

rrr Rejecting the planned bustle and ca-cophony of most Italian eateries, Va Pensieropresents a serene (some say romantic) set-ting for a beautiful meal: diners relax in com-parative privacy amid dimly lit greenery.Whether serving basics (vegetable mine-strone soup, pork tenderloin) or variationson a theme (penne tossed with shreddedrabbit ragout, jumbo sea scallops with awatercress-fennel slaw), executive chef EricHammond prepares and presents his disheswith a devotion to style. Most flavor combi-nations work extremely well, such as a pastaspecial of fusilli with asparagus and exoticmushrooms served in a light lemon, rose-mary, and goat cheese sauce. Desserts arejust as satisfying, if less innovative. VaPensiero also boasts a nice wine list of most-ly moderately priced imported selections,and has one of very few nonsmoking ter-races in the area. Paul Schoenwetter, Rater

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30 CHICAGO READER | JUNE 17, 2005 | SECTION TWO | ALFRESCO

Victory’s Banner2100 W. Roscoe | 773-665-0227

F 8.3 | S 8.0 | A 7.3 $ (22 REPORTS)VEGETARIAN/HEALTHY | BREAKFAST, LUNCH:WEDNESDAY-MONDAY | CLOSED TUESDAY |SMOKE FREE

rrr Victory’s Banner is one of the bestbreakfast houses in Chicago, period; theowner told me he learned how to make hisomelets from the immortal Lou Mitchellhimself. Satisfaction Promise is a scram-bled-egg dish with spinach, sun-dried toma-

to, and feta. But the killer is the Frenchtoast, in a batter made with cream (notmilk) and orange marmalade, served withpeach butter and real maple syrup. Thereare also pancakes, waffles, and uppama (anIndian hot cereal). Lunch items includehomemade soups, salads, and wraps. Therestaurant is owned by a student of medita-tion master Sri Chinmoy, and the menu saysthat it exists for one reason: to give joy.They have certainly succeeded with thiscustomer. Don’t worry, you won’t miss themeat. Jeff Kolton, Rater

Volare201 E. Grand | 312-410-9900

F 8.5 | S 7.3 | A 7.3 | $$ (6 REPORTS)ITALIAN | LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: SEVENDAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11:30

rrr It’s Taylor Street transplanted toeast-of-Michigan: lots of gold jewelry anddeep necklines, fast-moving waiters,clouds painted on the ceiling, vineyardscenes on the walls, and a menu ofwarhorses like minestrone, chickenVesuvio, risotto di mare, and mix-and-

match pastas and sauces. Familiar as theformula may be, Raters agree that thecooking is first-rate, which makes this agreat alternative to the numerous corpo-rate fakes downtown. Michael Lenehan

Yoshi’s Cafe3257 N. Halsted | 773-248-6160

F 8.5 | S 7.8 | A 6.6 | $$$ (16 REPORTS)GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC | DINNER: TUESDAY-SUNDAY; SUNDAY BRUNCH | CLOSED MONDAY |OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

rrr “Yoshi’s continues to delight,” saysone longtime patron. Formerly a quaint,elegant fine-dining room, the cafe haschanged with the times, now offering amore casual ambience and affordableFranco-American fare. Unfortunatelythere’s only the slightest hint of the Asian accent that chef Yoshi Katsumura is famous for. The scaled-down menuoffers an eclectic mix of dishes from grilled tofu to steak, plus a “light andhealthy” section. The dining room is non-smoking on Saturdays. LLS

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32 CHICAGO READER | JUNE 17, 2005 | SECTION TWO | ALFRESCO