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Edited by:Spase Shumka & Aleksandër Trajçe

Albanian Alps and Korabi Mountain Biodiversity

THE ALBANIAN ALPS

I. The Albanian Alps and Korabi Mountain – important chains of the European Green Belt

The trans-boundary cooperation has been so far one of the aspects of protection and conservation efforts in many countries. The first trans-boundary protected area was established in the year 1932 and during the last decade it has becoming a very common approach in nature conservation.

The “Iron Curtain” running from the Barents Sea to the Black Sea, divided Europe for almost 40 years. No activity was allowed in the “forbidden zone” along this inhuman barrier. While landscape all over Europe had been shaped and modified by processes of the intensive agriculture development (all industrialized), many habitats in the vicinity of the border line remained untouched: in the countries of former Eastern Block the utilization of border land was mostly prohibited, whereas on the western side remote border areas were less attractive for the investors, and no major traffic infrastructure was needed (Ricken et al., 2006)

Albania is a small country located in South Eastern Europe. It has borders with Montenegro, Kosovo, Macedonia and Greece, and its total area is 28,748 km². From the fertile coastal plain along the Adriatic Sea, the land rises into hills and mountains to the North (Albanian Alps) and East (Korabi Mountain). The country is traversed by small rivers which run mostly from east to west. Although Albania is rich in water resources, 33% of the rivers catchments areas lie outside its state borders.

Almost all the north-eastern part of the country comprises a very important natural chain in the designed European Green Belt. From the geographical and natural view, the chain looks so uninterrupted and well-connected with the frontier natural entity. The chain including the Albanian Alps, Korabi Mountain, Shebeniku and Jabllanica range, Ohrid and Prespa ecosystem, Gramozi Mountain, and Sotira forest is well connected with the ecosystems which lie in the neighboring countries. It is very difficult to conceive such an entity as part of one, two, three of four sides. The functioning ecosystem does not meet with the administrative or state boundaries. The barriers are human artifices.

Albania is distinguished for its rich biological and landscape diversity. This diversity is due to the country's geographic position as well as its geological, hydrological, climatic, soil and relief characteristics. The mountainous terrain combined with steep cliffs creates ideal conditions for maintaining and protecting a large number of old species, some of which are endemic or sub-endemic. The high diversity of the ecosystems and habitats (marine and coastal ecosystems, wetlands, river deltas, sand dunes, lakes, rivers, Mediterranean shrubs, broadleaved, conifers and mixed forests, alpine and sub-alpine pastures and meadows, and high mountain ecosystems) offers rich habitats for a variety of plants and animals. There are around 3,200 species of vascular plants and 756 vertebrate species. There are 27 endemic and 160 sub-endemic species of vascular plants.

Approximately 30% of all the European floras occur in Albania. The high Albanian forests maintain communities of large mammals such as wolf, bear, lynx, and chamois, and also characteristic birds’ communities.

Coastal lagoons and large lakes inside the country are important areas especially for wintering migratory birds. During the winter in Albania there are annually met around 70 waterfowls’ and water-birds’ species with a total population of 180,000 individuals. Albania is also an important crossroad for the migration of birds, bats, and insects.

In Albania there are found some 91 globally threatened species. These include the Dalmatian Pelican (Pelecanus crispus), Pygmy Cormorant (Phalacrocorax pygmeus),

Box 1. The Balkan Lynx Recovery Programme The present distribution of the Balkan lynx – described as a subspecies of its own, Lynx lynx martinoii – is restricted to the southwest Balkans, mainly in the border areas between Macedonia and Albania, spreading north into Montenegro and Kosovo. The population is estimated to be less than 100 individuals. Biology, ecology and history of the Balkan lynx are not well-known or documented, but obvious threats have been direct persecution in the past, decline of prey populations, and loss and fragmentation of the habitat.

The Balkan lynx has only survived because the border regions between former Yugoslavia, Albania, and Greece were areas with limited access and partly protected. Today, important remnant nuclei of the lynx occurrence are found in the protected areas, and the Green Belt Initiative offers the opportunity to expand and improve the protected sites. The charismatic lynx is a flagship species for the nature conservation in the Green Belt of the southwestern Balkan and it can in turn directly profit from an improved protection of these areas. The main target areas, known as potential lynx distribution sites in Albania, which are included in the Balkan Lynx Recovery Programme, are Shebenik-Jabllanica range, Albanian Alps and Korabi Mountain. One of the objectives of the BLRP is to establish these sites as protected ones through a series of actions, so that they can serve as core areas for the survival of the Balkan Lynx.

The aim of the Balkan Lynx Recovery Programme is to secure the survival of the population through a series of protected areas and improved wildlife management within and outside the PAs. For this aim, we need to generate a set of baseline information and to establish a reliable monitoring programme. This implies a strong partnership between governmental and non-governmental organizations on national and international level, increased public awareness and public involvement, and – above all – capacity building in nature conservation, wildlife research, and management.

The BLRP covers the conservation activities for a three-year period starting in 2006. It will not be possible to recover the Balkan lynx into a viable population within this short period of time. Such a recovery would imply a considerable range expansion and hence an improved habitat and prey base outside the remnant areas of occupation. However, the minimum goals to be achieved are:

1. to halt the further decline of the Balkan lynx population and to secure its survival in the protected areas of the Green Belt;

2. to generate all knowledge needed for a sensible long-term conservation programme;

3. to build the professional capacity needed for the maintenance of this long-term programme in the region; and

4. to create an atmosphere favourable to nature conservation through solid partnership, public awareness and involvement.

and the Sturgeon (Acipenser sturio), for which Albania is a country of particularly critical importance.

In spite of the fact that a small number of species has become extinct during the past century in Albania, the rate of loss of country’s biodiversity during the last 50-60 years is believed to be increasingly high. Moreover, insufficient data and studies on a wide range of flora and fauna do not allow an accurate historical evaluation of the biodiversity status of Albania. Two species of plants and four species of mammals have gone extinct; meanwhile 17 birds’ species no longer nest in the country's territory. During the last 25 years, approximately 122 species of vertebrates (27 mammals, 89 birds, and 6 fish) and four species of plants are expected to have lost more than 50% of their population. The number of rare and endangered species of plants and animals is high and it is expected to be increased.

The international community, concerned with the increasing rate of biodiversity loss, started to address the challenge through various processes. One of the most important events was the United Nations Conference on Environment and Development (Earth Summit) held on 1992 in Rio de Janeiro. The Earth Summit resulted in a set of documents, including Agenda 21 and Rio Declaration that laid down principles of and rules for a global environmental management. The UNCED process has also produced important additions to international law including the Convention on Biological Diversity (CBD), the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC), and the Convention to Combat Desertification in Those Countries Experiencing Serious Droughts and/or Desertification, Particularly in Africa, often referred to as the Rio Conventions.

The UNCED and the adopted documents are of global importance and have relevance to all the sectors. Thus, capacity development for global environmental management has become an issue for all the countries that have made commitments under these three Conventions. The issue is of particular importance to the developing countries and countries with economies in transition, which, on the one hand, have insufficient capacities to meet their commitments undertaken under the Conventions while, on the other hand, the proper implementation of the instrument is vital for their economic and social development.

In May 1999, the Capacity Development Initiative (CDI) was launched as a strategic partnership between the UNDP and the Secretariat of the Global Environment Facility. In the beginning of the year 2005, a project entitled “National capacity needs self-assessment related to environmental management of global conventions” (NSCA Project) was approved for Albania. The objective of the NCSA project is to determine the priority needs for capacity development in Albania in order to expand the country capacity to meet commitments to global environmental management. The project also focused on capacity related issues that are common across the conventions, assessing the capacities needed to address these issues in a synergistic way.

Albania signed the Convention on the Conservation of European Wildlife and Natural Habitats (Bern, 1979) on 31 October 1995 and ratified it on 2 March 1998. In 2001 the Council of Europe invited Albania to start the EMERALD Network pilot project. The project started on April 2002, according to the contract signed on 25 February 2002 between the Ministry of the Environment of Albania and the Council of Europe.

During the first phase, six sites were selected as ASCIs to be included in the EMERALD Network. Those sites are: Llogora National Park, Tomorri National Park, Divjaka National Park, Butrinti National Park, Prespa National Park and Allamani area

(proposed as a Strict Nature Reserve). The overall objective of the EMERALD Network pilot project was to develop a pilot database, containing the fair proportion of the ASCIs and to submit a proposal for the selected sites designation to the Standing Committee of the Bern Convention. The pilot project phase was only a starting point that lays a basis for the development of EMERALD Network at the national level. Recently (autumn 2005), a second phase of EMERALD Network has started to be implemented in Albania.

The Convention on Biological Diversity (CBD) was approved by the Albanian Government in January 1994. The Focal Point for the convention is the Minister of Environment, Fishery, Forestry and Water Protection. Since that time Albania has undertaken a series of actions to meet its obligations for implementing CBD, as follow:

Preparing the first National Report for the UNCBD Secretariat

Preparing the National Biodiversity Strategy and Action Plan (BSAP)

Establishing the National Council for Nature and Biodiversity

Monitoring program on Biodiversity

Establishing an interim Clearing House Mechanism

Establishing the Biodiversity Secretariat

WB/GEF Phase II Enabling Activity

Biosafety program

1.2 Protected areas as tool for in-situ conservation

In-situ conservation of biodiversity is a primary approach for the conservation of biological diversity. In these terms, adopting an international effective system (IUCN categories) will serve as mechanism for the protection of biodiversity, landscapes, flora and fauna.

The administration and protection of the protected areas is based on the Law No. 8906 of the June 6th, 2002, “On protected areas”. The object of this law is the declaration, preservation, administration, management and use of the protected areas and their natural and biological resources; the improving of the conditions for the development of environmental tourism, for the information and education of the general public, and for direct or indirect economic profits by the local population, by the public and private sector.

This law regulates the protection of six categories of the protected areas, applied in the territory of the Republic of Albania. The categorization of areas, the status, and level of protection for each area is based on the criteria of the World Centre of Nature Conservation. The law pays special attention to forests, waters and other natural resources within protected areas that shall be excluded from classification as forests for utilization.

The management of forests and forest property, of waters and water property, as well as other properties in state ownership located inside a protected area shall be performed by the administration of the protected area. This administration shall exercise such activities directly or through an authorized subject. In the areas where these properties are in private ownership, they shall be managed and utilized by the owner and legal user provided that this management is in compliance with the area management plan

approved by the Ministry of Environment.

For the first time, the “Law on Environmental Protection” presents the concept of the MoEFFWP as the highest agency for environmental issues. This law presents a synthesis of the main rights and obligations in the field of environmental protection of all interested parties: the state with its central and local agencies, juridical and physical persons, the public, and the obligations resulting from the international agreements. The integration of the environmental protection into local and national sector policies such as transport, energy, agriculture, tourism, industry, services, territory regulation, and economic and social development as a whole, is the responsibility of respective local and central agencies. According to this law, the broad public participates in environmental protection directly or through the environmental NGOs. The NGOs have the right to give opinions and to collaborate with the environmental protection agencies.

The law is followed by a series of Government decrees and regulations, as following:

a. Decree “On the administration of protected areas”, which defines that the State Authority for the administration of the protected areas is the Directorate General of Forests and Pastures, which must establish separate administrations for the protected areas. The decree also defines the main duties and responsibilities of the administration. Following this decree, the Directorate General of Forests and Pastures issued respective orders for the establishment of the separate administrations for 11 National Parks and 11 Natural Managed Reserves.

b. Decree “On the procedures for the proposal and declaration of protected areas and buffer zones”, which defines the procedures for the proposal and declaration of protected areas and buffer zones, as well as the criteria and requirements for the selection of these areas.

c. Decree “On the re-declaration of some protected areas”, which defines that protected areas declared prior the enforcement of the Law No. 8906, date 06.06.2002, "On protected areas", take the status defined by this law (Forest National Park became National Park, Game Reserve changed to Managed Natural Reserve).

d. Decree “On the establishment of Management Boards for the protected areas”, which defines that management boards are established for protected areas of II, IV and V categories. The decree also defines the duties and responsibilities of the management boards, as well as their composition. Management board members represent the relevant stakeholders and monitor the implementation of the management plan for the protected area and coordinate the activities of different agencies working within the area.

There are also several government decrees on the establishment of new protected areas, such as: “The protected landscape Vjosë-Nartë”, “Natural Managed Reserve of Liqeni i Shkodres” and “Protected Landscape of Bunë-Velipojë”, as well as the enlargement and joining of existing ones – “Dajti National Park”, “Mali me Gropa-Bizë Protected Landscape” and “Divjakë-Karavasta National Park”.

Until the 1990s, protected areas in Albania were small in number and size. Recommendations that emerged from the ecological survey and the National Biodiversity Strategy and Action Plan led to an important step in protected area planning in Albania. A new system was adopted for classifying existing and proposed protected areas, incorporating six IUCN management categories. The following table summarizes the improved system of protected areas that already covers up to 10.42% of the country total area (here are not included the new protected areas established after November 2007).

Management categories (IUCN, 1994) Number of protected areas

Area (ha) Category Description I Strict Nature Reserves 4 9,500.0 II National Parks 13 109,595.6 III Nature Monuments 746 3,490.0 IV Managed Nature Reserves 25 62,848.0 V Protected landscape 5 95,864.4 VI Protected areas of multiple use 4 18,200.0 Total 798 299,498.0

Source, DGFP, 2007

Six protected areas identified as areas of special conservation interest-ASCI are included in the first pilot phase of Emerald Network in Albania. During the second phase of EMERALD Network project, that has started recently, other protected areas (ASCI) will be added to the Emerald Network.

Some 19 sites along the Albanian coastline have been identified since 1996 (under Coastal Area Management Program – CAMP (UNEP/MAP, 1996) and proposed to be given the status of specially protected areas—SPAs.

Albania is a party to other International treaties, such as the Convention on Wetlands of International Importance especially as Waterfowl Habitat (Ramsar Convention); the Convention on the Conservation of European Wildlife and Natural Habitats (Bern Convention); the Convention on the Conservation of Migratory Species of Wild Animals (Bonn Convention); the Convention on the Conservation of World Cultural and Natural Heritage (UNESCO).

CITES is ratified by the Albanian parliament with the law No. 9021, date 06. 06. 2003. The law became effective on 25. 09. 2003 and it defines the scope, definitions, conditions for import, export, re-export, transit of exemplars, commercial activities and moving of exemplars, records, certification of the origin and unchangeable identification, and it also identifies the responsible state administration bodies.

The legal framework for nature conservation does not take into consideration the existing capacities and, for this reason, law enforcement is weak. The legal provisions are not sufficiently implemented in relation to damage to biological diversity and violation of national legislation (including the criminal code).

In situ conservation of agricultural biodiversity components is provided first of all at the level of registered cultivars and hybrids. Conservation is provided primarily for commercially used cultivars and hybrids. In-situ conservation of the original (old native) cultivars of cultivated plant species is not sufficiently ensured. This poses threats of genetic erosion and increases the vulnerability of the original (old native) genotypes of plant species in Albania. This has to be addressed through a specific legal framework that will be linked with the Rural Development Program, which gives more options for utilization of land races and old cultivars, as well as for funding.

The principle problems of in situ conservation of genetic resources in the area are: marginal attention paid to the issue, limited financial resources and consequently limited capacities for the qualified implementation of measures.

Fig. 1.1. Proposed network of the PA in 2009 by MoEFWA

Network of Protected Areas until November 2009

Source: DPPN

Ministry of Environment (MoEFFWP) is the main institution responsible for the protection of environmental values in Albania. According to the legal provisions, MoEFFWP identifies protected areas and approves management plans. The law provides the possibility to transfer the already existing administration of protected areas to any new or different administration bodies or to the MoEFFWP itself upon the approval of the Council of Ministers (CoM) (Art 23, § 1-4).

Ministry of Agriculture and Food (MoAF) has been the major authority for the management of forests, water, pastures, flora and fauna. It enforces its rights and responsibilities through the Directorate General of Forests and Pastures (DGFP), Directorate of Fishing (DF), Directorate of Waters, and Regional Directorates of Agriculture and Food (RDoAF). The new government structure has set the DGFP and Fishing Directorate within the MoEFFWP.

Historically, the mandate for protected area management lies within the General Directorate for Forestry and Pastures (GDFP) of the Ministry of Agriculture and Food (MoAF) Forestry Department. The recently approved Law on Forest and Albanian Forest Service (Art. 7 and 14) from 2005 confirms the mandate of GDFP for protected area management.

Protected area management authorities (administrations) are established as part of the DGFP for national parks and natural managed reserves. This demonstrates the division of responsibilities in the protected areas between the Ministry of Environment (MoEFFWP) and the General Directorate for Forestry and Pastures (GDFP).

According to the internal structure of GDFP, the Department for Protected Area Management (DPAM) is responsible for the supervision of their activities. However, the allocation and administration of funds for the Park Administration is under the responsibility of the District Forest Service Offices (DFSO), which has no line of command with DPAM. Because Park Administrations have no separate budget line, it is treated as any other Forestry Sector in the District office. Due to this legal and institutional set up for protected area management, the allocation of funds is not based on the allocation of a budget, but is decided on a case-by case basis.

Within the DGFP, the Park Administration depends hierarchically on the Department for Protected Area Management, but receives its funds from the District Forest Service Office. Between the two structures there is no line of command although both are within GDFP.

An important new element of the DGFP Park Management structures is the Management Board, which is currently under development. It provides the setup for a participatory management approach including all relevant technical structures, as well as governmental structures at regional and local level. Also other stakeholders such as non-governmental organizations and business associations are considered members of the board.

For the in-situ biodiversity conservation, the responsibilities of individual organizations are not yet clearly defined. In addition, activities are not well coordinated among sectorial institutions, which manage and implement individual (particular) projects aiming the in-situ conservation of biological diversity. The potential of project steering committees is not always used efficiently.

The performance of individual institutions is limited by their capacities. Effectiveness

of their performance is assessed through checking the success or failure to accomplish the tasks within the approved annual work plan, and possibly through assessing the effectiveness of funds spent. There is no feedback on the effectiveness of institutional performance on the biodiversity status and development.

Political support for the issues of conservation of genetic resources has decreased since the time of accession of Albania to the CBD and consequently capacities in this field have been weakened.

The administration of protected areas lacks in both number and capacities of personnel. All the staff working in protected areas management is with a background of forestry. Limited and inadequate staff is engaged in in-situ conservation. Competitive and advantageous salary conditions influence the quality of staff at the expert level. Staffing of posts in the public service is compromised and professional requirements have been reduced. The lack of experts in such field as economic and social aspects of biodiversity and related impacts and incentives is a specific problem. There is a need for training courses for professionals aiming the exchange and increasing of knowledge in the biodiversity field. Offers of foreign courses and training are used, but command of the language of the course is the main limitation. In order to address the legal aspects of the conservation of agricultural biodiversity, including issues of the access to genetic resources and equitable sharing of benefits arising from utilization, it is necessary to train a group of experts for the identification and assessment of original (old native) cultivars of plants.

PART ONE

PJESA E PARË

II. Albanian Alps

Description of natural characteristics of the Albanian Alps Area

2.1 Physical-geographic features

2.1.1. Geographic position, borders and dimensions

The Albanian Alps are situated at the northeastern part of the country with quite clear boundaries. In the south they are extended till the Drini Valley (in the sector between Fierza and Vau i Dejës), which separates them from the Puka highlands; in the east and northeast they are bordered with Tropoja catchment and the valley of the down flow of Valbona river, that separate them from the highlands of Gjakova and Hasi, which are parts of the Central Mountain Region; while at the west they descend at the plain of Mbishkodra. The state border between Albania and former Yugoslavia marks the northern and northeastern border of the Albanian Alps, but their structures continue even beyond the state border. In all their extension, the Alps have a maximal length of 64 km, between Maja e Zhihovës in north and Megulla e Gjerkajve in south, and a maximal width of 60 km, between Qafa e Morinës in east and the village Jeran (Katundi i Kastratit) in west. Total area of the Alps is 2020 km2. The extension of the Alps at the northern part of the country, in a linear distance of 40 km from the Adriatic Sea, the radial directions of the valleys and the surrounding mountain ranges have conditioned both the sea and continental influence. The sea influence comes through the valleys of Drini, Kiri, Cemi and Përroi i Thatë. At the same time, the continental influence penetrates in the Alps, which is more present in the northern and northeastern part. Among the above mentioned factors, a specific role plays the altitude that is expressed through vertical gradation of all the physical and geographic elements. Because of the interaction of these influences and their different emphasis in some particular areas, the Alps are distinguished for the diversity of their physical and geographic landscapes. In general, though the Alps have a broken and high relief, they are not inaccessible. The dense net of valleys, gorges and passes facilitates the crossing through them to the most remote parts.

2.1.2. Geological composition

The Albanian Alps, from the geological view, are situated totally in the area of the North Albanides and they belong to three tectonic zones: the Gashi zone, the Alps proper, and the Cukali zone, which overmount up respectively above each-other in the southwestern direction with the intercession of a schist belt.

Regarding the area, the major part is occupied by the tectonic zone of the Alps, and then by that of Cukali zone in south, whereas the Gashi zone lies only at the northern and northeastern extremity. These zones differ from each-other not only due to the lithological composition, but also from the structural construction, particularly the Gashi zone.

Fig. 2.1. View from Thethi

The main strata constructing these tectonic zones are carbonatites of Mesozoic that consist up to 60% of the general area, schists of Paleozoic and Paleocene and the magmatics (intrusive and effusive) of Mesozoic, both of which consist up to 40% of the Alps territory.

Carbonatite rocks, which occupy the major part of the tectonic zones of the Alps and Cukali, have a dolomitization thickness and are mainly thick strata massifs. Just at these rocks, the highest and the sharpest ridges of the alpine relief are formed, like Bjeshkët e Namuna, Block of Jezerca, Kollata, Grykat e Hapëta, Maja e Madhe (Ismet Sali Bruçaj), Mali i Hekurave etc. Directly after the carbonatites, the terrigenous stratum follows, the major part of which is too schistose by the metamorphism. The most distinguished parts are particularly the flysch ring of the Cukali tectonic zone, the Paleozoic schists at the tectonic border between Cukali and the Alps, and the mainly flysch belt in the northern and northeastern part of the Alps. Quite different from the calcareous strata, which are very resistant to the erosion, these rocks are much more destructed. To this fact should be added the high rate of their tectonic fragmentation due to their extension at the forefront of the above mentioned tectonic zones. Those two characteristic features have caused that the lower and much erosive reliefs to be formed just over the terrigenous strata.

Magmatic intrusive (granitoid massif of Trokuzi) and effusive rocks lie almost entirely in the Gashi tectonic zone (at the most northeastern extremity of the Alps), and they are found less in Cukali and in north of Vermoshi. Regarding the relief, they have two quite different appearances. In the sectors where they are much destructed by the detaching tectonics, it is created a relief that is relatively lower and very much degraded (around the catchment of Cemi, namely in the vicinity of the overmounting tectonic contact of the Gashi zone above that of the Alps). In the sectors where they are less affected by the tectonic detachments, high and sharp reliefs are formed. It is worth mentioning the

mountain range between the Gashi river and Tropoja (Koritat e Dobërdolit and Kreshi i Kocajve).

An important place in the Albanian Alps is occupied by quaternary depositions, conditioned by the intensive neotectonic development and erosive-denudative processes that characterize this region even nowadays. They are situated mainly in the terraces and gritty earths of the fluvial valleys, in the different deluvo-proluvial terraces, at the bottom of the slopes and alpine steeps, and in the troughs, grooves and glacial cirques.

The Albanian Alps are also distinguished by an intensive and very complicated tectonics, in which the detaching processes are more noticeable than the corrugating ones.

The activity of the consecutive orogenic phases in this region has caused a permanent regeneration of the structures, which has given to them much diversified shapes. Particularly, the new alpine orogenese of plioquaternary, as everywhere in our country, has had a strong differentiating character. Thus, the main morpho-structures of the Alps are blockish, in the type of horst-graben, and scaly. These two types of structures are reflected very well even in the main shapes of the relief of this region. One of the distinguishing structural particularities of the Albanian Alps, like the northern part of Central Mountain Region, is the deviation from the main northwest-southeast direction, which is typical for the structures of Albanides. So, the structural direction of the three above mentioned tectonic zones is northeast-southwest. This abrupt deviation is due to the old transversal fragmentation between Shkodra and Peja. However, it should be underlined that the general concentric direction of the main elements of the Alps relief does not coincide with their structural direction.

Regarding the corrugating structures, which have clear morphological features, it should be pointed out that they are present mainly in the tectonic zone of Cukali. Here it is formed a mega anticline with carbonatite nucleus and flysch flanks. This structure is very well presented in the relief (thus, the relief is wholly consistent with the structure). In Cukal the detaching structures are also represented very well, due to the strong pressure by the tectonic zone of the Alps proper in northwest, and by that of Mirdita in southeast.

The tectonic zone of the Alps proper, from the structural view, in general constitutes a strong plate in the shape of a big monoclinal, with a very wide central part, and with a smooth depression (10-15o) towards northwest. The intensive neotectonic differentiating movements in the conditions of a carbonatite composition have given to this structure a very clear blockish and scaly character.

The tectonic zone of Gashi, from the structural view, resembles more to that of Cukali, because its structures are highly destructed from the intrusion of the granitoid massif of Trokusi. This massif crosses traversally this zone (from northeast to southwest), dividing two anticline structures, that of the schists in northwest and the effusive one in southeast. In relief, these structures are reflected in different manners: consistent with the effusive structure and inconsistent with that of the schists.

Paleogeographic development of the Alps originates from the Paleozoic, when they were representing a unique entity. Later on, during Mesozoic, their differentiation started in the Alps ridge and in the Cukali trough. In the tectonic zone of the Alps, a terrigenous scrappy material was initially collected, which later on was replaced by the carbonatite material. Meanwhile, in the tectonic zone of Cukali, terrigenous materials were being deposited during all this period. Between the middle and upper Triassic, the Alps territory

emerged over the water, thus exposing to the continental conditions. This emergence was accompanied by the bauxites stratum that can be found nowadays in this region.

Fig. 2.2. Albanian Alps

During the middle Jurassic, the tectonic zone of the Alps was differentiated in two subzones, in that of Malësia e Madhe with the features of e ridge, and in that of Valbona with the features of a continental slope. Meanwhile, the Cukali zone continued to get deepened more and more, and was connected with the Alps through the subzone (continental slope) of Valbona. During the upper Jurassic, the ridge of Malësia e Madhe emerged over the water, and this is testified by the stratum of bauxite clays. In this period it also happened the differentiation of the Cukali tectonic zone in the deeper eastern part (the current geographic zone of Cukali), and in the western part with the features of a continental slope.

At the end of the Cretaceous, in the Valbona subzone, and a little bit later (during the Paleocene) in Malësia e Madhe and Cukali, the creation of the flysch started, and this eventually concludes the geosynclinals cycle of the Albanian Alps development. After the flysch development, the new orogenesis of the Eocene lifted eventually over the water the structures of these zones, by entering thus in a continental development regime.

The starting time of the current relief is related to the erosive neogenic structures that were intensively deformed by the new tectonic movements of plioquaternary. The amplitude of this orogenesis has increased more and more the differences of levels among the mountain ranges and fluvial valleys. This amplitude reaches 2-2.5 km between the bed of sinking basins and the more elevated blocks in the relief, while the difference amongst these elevated blocks is up to 500-600 m. Such an elevation is expressed clearly in the altitudes above 1500 m, where the fragments of erosive neogenic surfaces are found nowadays (in the mountains of Dubina, Kollata, and Grija etc.). The strong depressions of the Mbishkodra, Tropoja and Peja basins are accompanied at the same time with as strong as elevations of the mountain ranges. The extension of these basins in the shape of a semicircle, as well as the higher elevation that has occurred in the central part of this region (Bjeshkët e Namuna-Jezercë) have determined even the distinguished radial direction of the ranges and valleys, starting from a single point (the block of Jezercë-Bjeshkët e Namuna). That occurs because the above mentioned basins have been serving as a basic level for all the external relief-forming factors of this mountainous region, particularly for the fluvial activity. These basins, which later on were transformed into lakes, (Shkodra Lake is preserved even today), have been serving as collecting places for the waters of the Alps fluvial net. This net, through the regressive erosion, has reached until the center of this region, giving to the fluvial valleys as well as to the mountain ranges a clear radial direction.

Later on, after the last glaciation, these lakes should have been dried due to the elevating movements and their filling with considerable materials brought by the fluvial net. The development of a considerable number of canyons and terraces from the Alpine Rivers, when these enter to the basins, especially the typical canyons of Përroi i Thatë, Shkalla e Thethit, Grunasi and Valbona, testify for the elevations that the structures of this region are undergoing even today. These elevations, in return, have caused a more and more deepening of the disparities in the Alps relief, as a result of the regeneration of the fluvial and karstic activity. They are also reflected in the quick evolution of the relief, which is testified by the big quantity of coluvial and proluvial materials collected in the different levels of the slopes.

One of the most important events in the Alps history is their inclusion by the quaternary glaciation. As e result of their northern geographic position, high elevation above sea level, and high quantity of the precipitations, the glaciation in our Alps was more intensive compared with the other regions of Albania. Its activity has been so intensive, as the tracks of glacial relief are still preserved widely in this region. The glaciers that were acting in the Alps have been of mountainous and valley type.

2.1.3. The relief

The Albanian Alps, more than any other region of our country, are distinguished for the deep disparities of the relief, which are expressed in the big difference between the bed of the valleys and the surrounding alpine ridges, a difference that reaches up to 2000 m. Almost all the mountain ranges and the fluvial valleys start from the center, and

end directly at the surrounding basins by gradually descending. The mountain ranges elevate immediately in an altitude up to 1500-1800 m. Sometimes the ranges take the shape of blocks (Blloku i Jezercës, Kollata, Bjeshkët e Namuna, Kunora e Lohës, Mali i Hekurave etc.), some times that of plateaus (plateau of Veleçik-Bradishë), and sometimes the shape of sharp alpine ridges with salient disparities among them. The ridges themselves are composed by several separated peaks in the shape of pillars, pyramids and rugged columns, which fall steeply in the inter-mountainous troughs in different altitudes. The deep mountainous valleys, which are confined by the steeps of the surrounding ranges, sometimes are widened and take the shape of chutes, and sometimes are shrinked and form very deep ravines and canyons. Just these salient and abrupt morphological fragmentations of the Alps, are the reason of their harsh alpine nature. The development of this characteristic complex has to be searched in the peculiarities of the geologic evolution, and in the variety of the external relief-forming factors.

The high mountainous character of this region is clearly expressed by the hypsometric curve. This curve shows that the average altitude of the Alps is 1140 m., i.e. almost 1.5 times more than the average of all the country (200 m). This also shows that the major part (73%) of the relief is occupied by the altitudes of 600-1200 m. This indicator shows clearly the strong neotectonic elevation that the Alps have undergone. The altitudes over 2000 m that occupy 7% of the total Alps area are spread in their central part, just where they have undergone the higher elevation. The altitudes of 400-1000 m have also a relatively wide distribution; they mostly belong to the very wide fluvial valleys due to their glacial origin. One of the distinctive peculiarities of the altitude curve of the Albanian Alps is that 90% of it is occupied by main hypsometric curves, i.e. 200-800 m (29%), 800-1400 m (34%) and 1400-2000 m (27%). In the first floor the valleys altitudes are spread, in the second one the major part of the mountainous blocks and in the third floor the highest ranges of the Alps. This is a very clear indicator of the blocky differentiating tectonics that characterizes the Alps structures even in current days.

With the vigorous elevations and the domination of the carbonatite rocks, it is linked even the high rate of vertical fragmentation of the Alps relief, which values varies in wide ranges (400-950 m/km2). The carbonatite composition has facilitated very much the fluvial erosion in depth and it is related to the morphological disparities.

The horizontal fragmentation is closely related with what we described above, and its development is more determined from the lithologycal composition and the rate of the vertical fragmentation. This is the reason that the lower values of this fragmentation are met in carbonatite rocks (0.1-0.9 km/km2), while the higher values (3-5 km/km2) are found in schist and magmatic strata. Here can be mentioned the basins of Nikaj-Mërturi, Shala, Shoshi, Selca trough, Gashi zone, Vermoshi etc.

2.1.4. The structural erosive relief

This type of relief is mainly related with detaching structure, because the scaly and blockish character of the structures of this region has reduced the role of the corrugating processes in relief-forming, and they do not display tangible morphological features. There can be excluded the anticlines of Shkëlzeni and Cukali that are clearly distinguishable even in the present relief. The gravitated scales ripped off by the detaching movements that give to the relief a harsh alpine character are widely present here. There should be mentioned those of Bjeshkët e Namuna, those of the two slopes

of Valbona valley, that of the northeastern slope of Shkëlzeni etc. Their formation is closely linked even with their carbonatite composition that is typical for such a phenomenon.

2.1.5. The karstic relief

The karstic processes are conditioned by the wide distribution of the carbonatite rocks with big thickness, vigorous neotectonic activity and detaching structures formed by them, as well as by the big amount of precipitations, both rain and snow. The freeze and snow activity is intermingled with karstic processes; therefore the relief forms shaped by them are called nivalo-karstic forms. They lie in altitudes of 1400-2000 m, whereas the forms created by the rainfalls are found below the altitudes of 1200 m. The territories that are distinguished for their typical karstic relief are those of Veleçik-Bridash plateaus (karstic field of Troshani, Fusha e Zezë, Gropat e Vrrinit, Fusha e Lqethit, Fusha e Krekëzës, that of Meksezës and Kunora e Lohës with steepness of Repishti, Kosani etc).

Besides the karstic superficial forms, in the Alps there are present also underground ones, due to the continuous uplifting they have undergone, and, related with this, the perennial deeper depression of the basic level of the karstic erosion (i.e. of the basic level of underground waters). Such underground forms like caves, grottoes, different pits, galleries, chimneys, water-sucking points etc., there are found all over the Alps. Among the most important caves of the Alps are those of Kakverri and Bravniku in the northeastern slope of Maja e Kakisë, Shpella e Zezë and that of Drela in Curraj i Epërm village, the cave of Drogani in Shkrel (valley of Përroi i Thatë), cave of Zhyla in Pekal, cave of Mbilqethi in Cukal, cave of Kllogjeni and cave of Bora (in the western slope of Kunora e Lohës) etc.

2.1.6. The fluvial relief

This type of relief is represented by the mountainous river net, terraces, cones and flysches etc. In fluvial relief, as well as in the karstic one, many features of the glacial morphology are preserved, particularly in the upper flows of the rivers. Other relief forms are terraces that present difficulties for their discernment. More clear tracks of them are found in the middle parts of valleys of Shala, Kiri, Valbona and Cemi i Vuklit. Generally, the first and the second level of terraces are of accumulative type, whereas two other levels have erosive accumulative character. The flysch cones are found mainly at the coves of main streams branches. The high inclination of their beds, abundant precipitations, strong influence of the freeze and, as a consequence, intensive processes of the slope development make these streams to transport a big amount of scrappy materials.

2.1.7. The glacial relief

Even though many forms of this type of relief are caused by the postglacial aquatic erosion and other external factors, they are present in the Alps. The best preserved glacial relief is found at the altitudes of 1600-1800 m (in the western and southern slopes), whereas in northern and eastern slopes it is preserved until the altitudes of 1300-1500 m. The most typical forms are the glacial valleys, karstic-glacial excavations, troughs, cirques etc. Quaternary glaciers have exploited the different negative forms of

relief shaped by the fluvial and karstic erosion before the glaciation. The glacial morphology is typical for all the upper parts of the fluvial valleys, like those of Boga, Thethi, Valbona, Vermoshi, Curraj, Dobërdoli and Sylbica.

2.1.8. The erosive - denudative relief

These forms are actuated by the favorable lithologycal conditions (effusive schists), and climatic ones (precipitations on the slopes). The main forms of this activity are coluvial cones, the slithered blocks, stony torrents etc.

2.2. Physical Geographic Regionalization of the Alps

Based on the interior natural variations, the Alps can be divided in two big zones: the western Alps and the eastern Alps. The boundary dividing these two zones passes through Shala valley and Runica trough; this boundary marks important variations of the nature of these two major parts of the Albanian Alps.

The Western Alps are extended between Shala valley and trough of Runica in east, Mbishkodra plain in southwest, Drini valley in south and the state line border in north and northwest. Their total length from north to south is 64 km, and from east to west 20 km.

Regarding the lithologycal composition, the Jurassic and Cretasic carbonatite strata are dominant in this zone, which are mainly extended in the central part, and schisty terrigenous ones that are extended in south and north. The main structural organization of these strata is the scaly one with a general overmounting direction from northeast to southwest. Among them, the most important ones from the morphological view are the scales of Marlula, Vita, Gjarpri i Vuklit and Bishkaz-Biga e Gimajve. Directly after them, there are the blockish structures like Bjeshkët e Namuna and Biga e Gimajve-Troshan. The general direction of the mountain ranges and fluvial valleys in this zone is northeast-southwest in accordance with the structures direction. This phenomenon is conditioned by the subsidence of the Shkodra Lake karstic-tectonic basin in southwest. The subsidence of this basin is accompanied by the lifting up of the mountainous ranges over the plain of Mbishkodra in southwest, with the interposition of structural threshold of the Posriba, Reçi and Kastrati hills. The new tectonic differentiating movements have caused that all the mountain ranges of this zone, starting from their central part of Bjeshkët e Namuna – Biga e Gimajve with altitude of 2200-2500 m, to descend gradually towards south and southwest until the altitudes of 1500-1700 m. This is very well expressed even in the disparities attenuation and depth decrease of the vertical fragmentation of the relief in the same directions at altitudes from 1300 to 800 m.

The Eastern Alps lie at east side of Shala valley and Runica trough, with an extension of 40 km from north to south, and 32 km from east to west. In the Eastern Alps, unlike the western ones, the magmatic (infusive and effusive) rocks are more widely spread, whereas the terrigenous ones cover a very small area. The dominating structures are the blockish ones such as Kollata, Jezerca, Maja e Hekurave, Grykat e Hapëta, Kakia etc., whereas the scaly ones are extended in the border dividing the tectonic zone of Gashi with the Alps proper (between Çeremi and Bradoshnica), and the last one with Cukali (between the passes of Kolci and Agri). Among the corrugating structures, the anticline of Shkëlzen-Radeshë can be mentioned, where the structure are in accordance with the relief.

The major part of these mountain ranges has an altitude more than 2200 m and a more salient alpine relief, mainly associated with the higher elevation that the structures of this zone have undergone and with the prevalence of the carbonatite rocks. Due to these main factors, the values of the horizontal fragmentation are generally minimal, whereas the relief energy has the highest values in all the Alps.

The mountainous ranges and river valleys have a general direction from north to south, except for Valbona valley that has a direction from northwest to southeast. This direction is conditioned by the southern extension of the Tropoja grabenic basin and Drini valley, where the mountain ranges are abruptly interrupted.

2.2.1. The Western Alps

The Shala Valley

The Shala Valley lies in the center of the Alps and it is traversed by the river with the same name, which is formed by two main branches, Kaprei stream and Stupja stream at the right side. From its river-head at the Thethi trough in an altitude of 1200 m until the cove of Stupje stream, the valley has a north-south direction, whereas from that point until its conflux with Drini River it turns immediately towards southeast. In east it is bordered with valleys of Valbona and Nikaj, whereas in west with valleys of Përroi i Thatë (Boga) and Kiri. The constructive strata of this valley are Mesozoic calcareous stones and terrigenous sediments, which are much destructed by the new tectonic breakings. The relief is distinguished for the disparities of the alpine nature between the surrounding crests and its winding riverbed.

Four levels of terraces are discernible in this valley, particularly in its right side. At the exit of Breglumi, this valley forms a very beautiful and typical narrowing that is called Portat e Shalës. The narrowing occurs because the valley there enters in old and massive carbonatite strata. After the place called Portat e Shalës, the valley widens again forming the catchments of Shoshi that is different from that of Shala. This difference has to do with its positioning in two tectonic zones, the Alps zone and that of Cukali. Just for that reason, the slopes of this catchment go down gradually and become asymmetric. This occurs due to the structure of the Shala River and its stronger erosion than that of Kiri River, because of the lower basic level.

The length of Shala River is 376 km, its catchment area is 269 km2 and the riverbed inclination is 22 m/km. It has two main branches: the stream of Kaprei (Lumi i Zi) and the stream of Stupje (at the right). The river begins at the southeastern bottom of Maja e Radohinës (sources of Okoli in Theth) and flows almost in north – south direction until it meets the valley of Drini. Its average annual flow reaches up to 33.7 m3 per second, thus surpassing that of Valbona, although the Shala catchment is 2.5 times smaller.

The mountain range between Shala valley and Kiri valley

This mountain range with a north-south direction is extended between valley of Shala in east and that of Kiri in west, from the southern bottom of Biga of Gimajve until the northern bottom of Cukali Mountain in south.

The main features of this range relief are determined by its extension between two tectonic zones, the Alps zone in north and Cukali zone in south, which have different lithologycal formation and structure. This range starts with Maja e Elbunit (1960 m) that

is detached from Biga e Gimajve in the shape of a gravitative scale. The range is distinguished by a diverse relief that is related with its schistose and calcareous structure. Its relief descends immediately when it detaches from the carbonatite wing of the Dukagjini anticline, and enters into its schistic nucleus. A distinguished feature of the relief in the sector constructed by schists is the interweaving of a row of relatively smooth peaks and not that high passes, which connect the Shala valley with the Kiri valley. Among its peaks, Maja e Boshit and Kunora e Lotajt are more distinguishable, and here the Permian calcareous massifs appear.

The view of the range changes after its entering into carbonatites of the Cukali tectonic zone, where the relief gets a very harsh character, especially in the height of Maja e Bigës (1314 m) and that of Bualli (1378 m).

The Cukali Mountain

The Cukali Mountain lies at the southern extremity of the Western Alps and it is separated from them by well-defined natural boundaries, because it is surrounded from all the sides by mountainous valleys like valley of Shala in northeast, valley of Kiri in northwest and valley of Drini in south and southeast.

The general direction of its extension is northwest–southwest with a length of 24 km and a width of 8 km. The Cukali relief fits wholly with its corrugative structure and lithology. As a whole, Cukali can be considered like a miniature of the Alps because its central part, as it occurs with the Alps, is very elevated, meanwhile in the periphery it descends gradually. Its semblance in the shape of a block that comprises the basic morphological feature of this mountain is conditioned by its own structure and lithologycal composition. It is totally formed in the carbonatite nucleus of Cukali anticline, whereas the peripheral descent occurs in the flysch wings of the structure. The height of this block is due to the neotectonic elevations and two strong rifts, that of Shkodër-Pejë from the south and Prekal-Ura e Shtrenjtë in northwest, which are still active.

The central part of Cukali has the semblance of a highly fragmented vault by the dense net of the streams. As a consequence of this fragmentation, in the relief of the highest part of Cukali there is created a series of peaks with moderate shapes separated from each-other by not that high passes. Almost at the central part of these peaks the trough of Fusha e Liqethit lies, surrounded by Mbilqethi Peak (1734 m), Cukali Peak (1723 m) and some other peaks. The northwestern and southeastern slopes are asymmetric due to the different heights of the basic level of Drini and Kiri rivers.

In the central part of Cukali block, in the altitude of 1325 m, one of the most interesting troughs is found, Fusha of Lqethit. Its formation on the top of Cukali structure is facilitated by the local tectonic rifts and later on it is shaped by quaternary glaciation. After the glaciers melting, it was transformed into a lake, which got dried due to the karstic processes and the backward erosion of Bena stream. Cukali is distinguished for a very developed karst.

The mountain range between Kiri valley and Përroi i Thatë

This range is extended from Pass of Tëthore in north and reaches to mountain of Maranaj in southwest, and has a length of 25 km. In eastern side it descends in a steep way over the Kiri valley and Kaprei stream (branch of Shala River), whereas in northwest it descends over the valley of Përroi i Thatë. The range is composed by the mountain

block of Rrabë-Troshan, which extends until the Pass of Tërthore (1660 m), as well as by Biga e Gimajve (2231 m) and Ndreu Peak (1918 m). The last one, at Maja e Ndreut is separated in two branches, one ending in south of Maranaj Mountain, and the other in southwest of Kunora e Lohës (over the plain of Postpoja). The range lies in the boundary between the tectonic zone of the Alps and that of Cukali, which has directly influenced on its morphological development. The very harsh relief that characterizes this range is expressed in the series of consecutive calcareous crests, which are surrounded by very high scarps (600-800 m). This alpine feature of the relief is due to the normal detachments and their composition almost wholly by the Triassic carbonatite strata.

In some parts of this range there are also found many forms of glacial relief. From the Biga e Gimajve Peak until Maja e Ndreut, this mountain range forms a unique body. At Maja e Ndreut, it is separated in two branches through the tectonic-erosive valley of Rrjolli stream; the southwestern branch ends at Kunora e Lohës (1848 m), whereas the next branch continues together with the main body towards south until Maja e Maranajt (1577 m). The ridge between Biga e Gimajve and Maja e Ndreut forms a monoclinal crest, which descends gradually towards southwest, interrupted by the tectonic erosive passes of Shtogu and Paruni. Among these gorges, four glacial grooves are formed. Along with grooves, the relief of this range has also some nivalo-karstic troughs like that of Kamsholli, Paruni etc.

Fig. 2.3. Bjeshket e Namuna

The Kiri valley

This valley is extended between the mountain range of Biga e Gimajve – Maranaj Mountain in west and the range of Elbun – Cukal in east. The general direction changes two times: in the upper sector until Prekali village, it has an almost north-south direction, whereas from the village of Prekali until its cove it has a southwestern direction. The major part of the valley is composed by carbonatite strata (of Mesozoic) and the other part by terrigenous strata (mainly schisty), which are vigorously destructed by the new tectonic rifts (Prekali-Ura e Shtrenjtë), and by the overmounting (in the upper sector of the valley). The valley relief has an alpine nature with salient disparities between the basin and the surrounding ridges. Considering the different morphological features in this valley, two sectors can be distinguished: the upper sector and the lower one.

The upper sector starts from the Kiri river sources and extends until the village with the same name. It is formed transversally the schist structure of the Alps and its shape resembles more to a basin than to a valley. In this sector the disparity between the surrounding slopes is quite distinguishable due to the different lithologycal structure.

The lower sector of the valley starts immediately after its exit from the Kiri village. Here the valley is narrowed instantly in the carbonatite strata of Prekali anticline, passing almost parallel with the axis of this structure. The valley slopes are distinguished not only for the salient asymmetry, but also for the different morphology. The right slope, due to the lithologycal variations (calcareous and schist), has an escalating shape.

The Kiri River is shorter than that of Cemi, with a length of 52 km, its catchment area is 261 km2 and the slope inclination of the riverbed is 27 m/km. It springs from the southern bottom of Elbuni Peak and it flows in north-south direction until the Prekali village.

The valley of Rojlli

This valley is extended between Kunora e Lohës Mountain in west and Bishkazë-Maranaj range in east. It is formed in the tectonic rifts of Rjolli, with which it is related its strong penetration in the carbonatite structure of the surrounding crests and the big relief disparities. The valley starts at the Paruni trough between Bishkazi Mountain and Kunora e Lohës, and it goes on with a continuous deepening through many thresholds until the Prekali notch.

Bjeshkët e Namuna and karstic Plateau of Veleçik-Bridash

This entity is extended from Veleçiku in southwest until Maja e Langojve in northwest with a total length of 26 km. Its southeastern border is formed by the valley of Përroi i Thatë, Thethi and Runica groove, while in northwest it is bordered by Cemi i Vuklit and Lëpusha troughs. At the southwestern extremity it descends gradually in the hilly karstic relief of Kastrati, whereas in northeast it is interrupted abruptly in the catchment of Gucia (in Montenegro territory).

Bjeshkët e Namuna occupy the northwestern part of this range between Cemi i Vuklit in west, Peja Pass and Thethi trough in east, Tërthore Pass and upper flow of Përroi i Thatë in south. In southwest it is separated from the plateau of Veleçik-Bridash by the Kozhnja trough.

In general, these highlands have the particularities of a block, representing one of the highest territories in the Albanian Alps. The reasons of their blockish character, immediate lifting up and roughness are the new tectonic elevations and their wholly calcareous composition. The main morphological elements of this block are the troughs and sharp ridges in between them. The main troughs in northwest are Gropa e Shterpave, that of Kllogjeni, Livadhi i Bogës etc., whereas in southwest there are Runica groove and Radohina trough. All these troughs are formed during quaternary and have a karstic-glacial origin.

The territory between Maja e Langojve and Shëniku Peak forms one of the roughest and sharpest ridges of these highlands due to the monoclinal depressions and the massive character of the lime stones.

The karstic plateau of Veleçik-Bridash occupies the southwestern part of this range. It is separated from Bjeshkët e Namuna by the Kozhnja and Mekzeza troughs (over Boga). Its whole composition of carbonatite rocks and the strong tectonic fragmentation are reflected at the morphology development, which is characterized by a very intensive development of the karst. All the interior part of this plateau, with an area of 114 km2, is characterized by small differences of altitude levels that might be related to a neogene erosive surface.

The almost totally absence of the hydrographic net in this plateau have caused that the rate of the vertical and horizontal fragmentation to be very low. Only in the northwestern side, the two left branches of Cemi River, - Kozhnja and Suha streams, - have formed valleys with a canyon shape.

The valley of Përroi i Thatë

It represents one of the most interesting valleys from the geomorphologic point of view, and is extended between the range of Rabë-Biga e Gimajve-Kunora e Lohës in east and that of Radohinë-Veleçik in west. The pass of Tërthore and Shtegu i Dhenve (2040 m) connect it with Thethi valley. It starts at the western side of Tërthore Pass and until Ducaj village it forms an arc with southeastern direction. From village of Ducaj and until it flows in to Lake of Shkodra, it is extended in southwestern direction. Its length is about 33 km. Inside the Alps this valley lies from an altitude of 1300 m (Okoli i Bogës) until 180 m at Dedaj village, i.e. at the entrance of Postpoja plain. In this territory the valley is wholly composed by calcareous rocks that are much destructed from the karst and tectonics formed by the anticline of Përroi i Thatë.

The upper part that is known with the name Boga valley, from Okoli i Bogës until Ducaj village, it has the shape of a semi-ark with almost symmetric slopes and has broken through the strong carbonate mass in a deepness of about 1300 m. This part of valley is typically glacial, and this is demonstrated by its shape like a trough. It is elaborated by a big glacial lump that has descended from the Alps (perhaps by Radohina) during the last glaciation.

The mountain range of Dubinë-Golish-Berizhdol

This mountain range is extended among the valley of Cemi i Vuklit in south and that of Cemi i Selcës in north. The northwestern part of this range is that between Dubina Peak and Poniku Pass, which is totally composed by calcareous rocks, whereas the southeastern part is composed chiefly by flysch. The different morphological features are

related to the different lithologycal composition. The part from the beginning of this ridge until Zagoni Peak is very sharp, with consecutive abysses and steeps. Between Zagoni Peak and tectonic erosive Pass of Kësteci, this range has the features of a monocline crest. At Dubina Peak (1734 m), above the altitude of 1300-1500 m, some carbonate steeps are abruptly uplifted. In the top part, a somehow regular surface is formed with a slight steep towards the northeast, until it breaks off at Pass of Kësteci (1600 m). These morphological features and its formation over a flysch sediment show that it represents a neogene flattening area.

The valley of Cemi

This valley is composed by two main branches, Cemi i Vuklit and Cemi i Selcës. At the exit of Tamara village, these two branches are jointed and form the unique valley of Cemi. The valley of Cemi i Vuklit lies among two above mentioned branches and is characterized by original morphological feature closely related to monocline structure and carbonatite composition. The Vukli catchment that is narrowing from northeast to southwest has very asymmetrical slopes and a fragmented relief. At the northeastern part of this catchment, where the lime stones contact with the flysch, a series of deep troughs are formed like those of Jama, Fusha e Liqenit and Dershena.

The Cemi of Selca valley starts at an altitude of 1200 m and descends until 235 m. The two above mentioned valleys are joined at Tamara Bridge thus forming a unique body that ends at Moraça River (in Montenegro territory). By passing and breaking through the entire carbonatite mass in a deepness of 900-1000 m., this valley, watched from Leqet e Hotit, has an impressive view.

The mountain range among the Cemi of Selca and Vermoshi valleys

This range is one of the fewest in the Alps that have an almost wholly flysch structure. Its direction is from east to west and it is formed in a synclinal structure surrounded by two tectonic breakings. Along with Cemi of Selca valley and that of Vermoshi, this valley has also as a natural boundary the valley of Skrobotusha and that of Lëpusha (the right branch of Vermoshi River). In east the range continues with Grebeni Peak (1840 m), where one branch of the Lëpusha stream divides it in two ridges, one of them continues towards northeast until Pjeshka Peak (1820 m), while the second one goes on towards southwest and is closed in at Bordoleci Pass (1320 m). In general, the top of this range is very sharp because of the intensive destruction of the flysches.

The valley of Vermoshi

In its formation, this valley is influenced by tectonic breakings that have determined the northwest–southeast direction. It starts from an altitude of 1300 m., where Skrobotusha stream begins, and descends till an altitude of about 1000 m, just beneath the cove of Lëpusha stream. It is totally composed by flysch rocks that are spread along Marlula scale (the tectonic zone of Gashi), which has caused their strong tectonic destruction. After joining with Lëpusha valley, the valley of Vermoshi is immediately narrowed, forming thus the canyon of Bashkimi. This canyon is 1 km long, 30-40 m deep, 1.2-1.8 m wide until it exits in Gucia catchments.

The mountain range of Marlulë-Maja e Bojës

This range lies on the left side of Vermoshi valley and represents the most northern extremity of the country. It is formed in the scaly effusive sedimentary structure of the Gashi tectonic zone over that of the Alps and has a northwest–southeast direction. The abrupt lifting up of the range over 2000 m occurs because of the new tectonic elevations. The range begins with Zabeli Peak (2135 m) and after the tectonic erosive Pass of Mojani (2056 m), it elevates immediately in Marlula Peak (2186) and Maja e Madhe (2195 m). In northeastern side of this range, separated by the valley of Harusha stream, Zhihova range is spread, across which the state border passes; its highest peak reaches 2174 m and it is the most northern edge of our country.

2.2.2. The Eastern Alps

The blocks of Jezerca and Kollata

These blocks are situated between Çeremi catchment and stream in east, upper valley of Valbona in south, Thethi, Pass of Peja (1700 m) and Runica trough in west, whereas in north they continue beyond the state border.

Though these blocks are separate and divided by the Pass of Valbona e Vogël (2100 m) and the valley of Kukaj stream, Jezerca and Kollata have e series of common features. They are totally constructed from the Mesozoic calcareous, have a blockish structure and are surrounded by strong tectonic breakings. Their relief is among the roughest of the Albanian Alps, with sharp pyramidal ridges and steeps that descend vertically some hundred meters over the surrounding grooves, valleys and troughs. A common characteristic of them is the poor plant cover.

The block of Jezerca represents the highest and the most gorgeous part of the Albanian Alps, and it lies in their center. Jezerca Peak is 2692 m high and presents the highest point of the Alps. In the Jezerca relief, two main elements are distinguished: grooves and ridges that have a radial extension. In grooves of Jezerca and Kolaj there are found even glacial lakes such as the Big Lake (Liqeni i Madh) and Lake of Lohjani. The Big Lake of Jezerca is the biggest among the others of the Alps and it is situated at an altitude of 1792 m. It has an extended shape with a length of 443 m, average width of 178 m and a depth of 3.5 – 4 m.

The block of Kollata is situated between the valley of Kukaj stream and the Pass of Small Valbona in west, the upper valley of Valbona in south, the Çeremi catchment in east and the state border line in north.

The catchment of Nikaj-Mërturi and surrounding mountains

The catchment of Nikaj-Mërturi and the surrounding mountains present the biggest entity of the Eastern Alps and one of the biggest and the highest ones of the Albanian Alps. It is situated between the Valbona valley in northeast, the Drini valley (from the cove of Valbona until that of Shala) in south and the Shala valley in west; its length from north to south is 30 km, and its width from east to west is 24 km. The catchment of Nikaj-Mërturi is closed up by the surrounding mountains from the three sides and it is opened towards southeast in the Drini River valley. The arc begins with Kore e Mërturit (1758 m) that lies between the coves of Valbona and Nikaj in Drin; after the Kolci Pass (1260 m) it

elevates immediately in Shtylla e Grisë (2095 m) over the Tropoja catchment, reaching finally the highest point at Maja e Hekurave (2560 m).

The valley of Valbona

This is one of the most known valleys, which is situated in the center of the Eastern Alps between the Jezerca block, Kollata and the mountain range of Qypi i Gracit-Rupë in north, and the mountain range of Maja e Boshit-Maja e Hekurave in south and southeast. From Shoshani Bridge until Fierza, the valley passes through the Tropoja catchment and the hilly relief between Bujani and Tëplani. In all its length, the valley forms a semi-arc with the concave side in southwest. The start of this valley coincides with the glacial groove of Vali that is situated among the Peak of Alia and that of Popluka in southwest of the Jezerca block. In this mountain range, the carbonatite rocks are dominant and only in the villages of Valbona and Dragobia the schist nucleus of the Alps appear.

The springs of Valbona are at the bottom of the eastern slope of the pass with the same name, where it originates from some karstic springs in the altitude of 1450 m.

The mountain range among valley of Valbona and valley of Gashi

The major part of this mountain range is composed by carbonatite strata and partly by schist (Dragobi-Bradoshnicë, Çerem), effusive (Rupe) and granite (Trokus, Markofocë). Its general direction is from northwest to southeast and it gets widening until the Peak of Gjarpri-Rupe. Its height is gradually increasing from Qypi i Gracit (1344 m) until Peak of Gjarpri (2210 m) and that of Rupe (2266 m). The slopes are very broken due to many gravitative blocks that have given to the range a typical alpine character.

The valley of Gashi River

This valley is situated in northeast of the Eastern Alps and it starts from the glacial groove of Dobërdoli in an altitude of 1600 m and ends at the Tropoja catchment in an altitude of 244 m. The lithologycal diversity is reflected in the morphological variety of the valley, especially in its widenings and narrowings, separated between them by thresholds of mainly tectonic–lithologic origin. On the left of this groove the glacial Lake of Dashi is situated, which is the third with regard to its size, after Sylbica Lake, and the first in all the Alps with regard to its altitude (2175 m). Its total length reaches up to 275 m, whereas its width is 255 m.

The mountain range among valley of Gashi and valley of Tropoja

This mountain range is extended at the most eastern extremity of the Eastern Alps among the deep erosive troughs of Gashi and Tropoja valleys and the catchment with the same name. The abrupt lifting up of this mountain range until the relative altitude of 2000 m is related with the new tectonic elevations and the depression of Tropoja catchment. Its spreading has a southeast–northwest direction from Shkëlzeni Mountain (2407 m) until Kreshi i Kocajve (2397 m), in the shape of the letter “T”. It is formed by

two ranges with quite different lithologic, structural and morphologic compositions, that are separated between them by the tectonic-lithologic Pass of Erusha (2020m); the range among Erusha Pass and Kreshti i Kocajve is wholly composed by magmatic (effusive and intrusive), and it has e scaly structure.

The valley of Tropoja

This valley is situated at the most northwestern extremity of the Eastern Alps and it starts at the glacial trough of Sylbica. In Tropoja valley a series widenings and narrowings are distinguished, separated between them by thresholds with different altitudes and inclinations. The valley intersects several strata and structures that are part of two tectonic zones. All its upper part until Shkalla e Sylbicës comprises a “hanged” glacial trough.

III. Climate particularities of the Albanian Alps

3.1. Climate characteristics of Albania

The climate features of a certain and especially isolated area, besides the specific topographic conditions, orography, vegetation and presence of water bodies, is mainly determined by the climate-forming factors of the wider area. Because of that, it is important that firstly to be described these climate-forming factors and later on the climate regime of the concerned region.

The climate regime of Europe is determined by three main factors, ranked as follows:

The high variation of polar air temperature in north and subtropical air in south;

The position of the continent, more precisely, its terra-sea being bordered in west with Pacific Ocean, in east with Asian continent, and in south with Mediterranean Sea and African continent;

The heavily developed orographic barriers like Alps, Pyrenees and Scandinavian mountains.

These factors have different influences in different places, somewhere strong and in other places moderate. Due to this complexity of factors and different intensity of their impacts in various regions, there can be distinguished high variety of climate particularities.

Regardless of this high variety of climate particularities, in many areas of the European continent are present various indexes and parameters of the elements of meteorological regime such as solar radiation, precipitations, air humidity and temperature, wind with its both components (velocity and direction), atmospheric pressure etc., which create the possibilities of a climatic zoning or regionalization according to already accepted standards by the World Meteorological Organization (WMO).

In this framework, even in Albania several studies are conducted in the field of climatology and climatography for all the territory of the country and for particular areas as well.

Albania is situated in the southwestern part of Europe and is confined in the western side by the Adriatic and Ionian seas. The country’s relief is very broken and there are three main morphometric forms: mountains, hills and western lowland. The average altitude of the Albanian territory is 728 m above sea level.

Besides the above mentioned climate driving factors regarding the Europe, there are some others that influence directly in shaping the climate features of Albania such as the cyclones that come from the north Atlantic, and those that originate in the Mediterranean sea (particularly the cyclone of Genoa bay), and anticyclone of Azores.

Due to the interaction of all the climate driving factors, Albania is characterized by a typical Mediterranean climate. In general, the climate features of Albania are characterized by soft and wet winters, and dry and hot summers.

Based on the studies carried out by the Albanian climatologists and synopticans, it is noticed that almost during the major part of the year (188 days in a year) Albania is

under the influence of anti-cyclonic activity. This situation is a direct consequence of the stressed activation of the Azores anticyclone activity, which is expressed in the development of hummocks and cores, emitted by anticyclone of Azores towards Mediterranean and Central Europe, according to the so-called “western axle”. It is clear that those are the reasons for creation of the regional western displacements.

Likewise, by these studies it is noticed that during about 177 days in a year Albania is under the cyclonic influence, accompanied with closeness and precipitations (see Table 3.1). The development of the anti-cyclonic activity is more stressed during the summer

and more specifically in July and August. During these months higher frequencies of the centers with extended anticyclones activity are appeared, respectively from 8 to 25

centers per month. A lower frenzy for the appearance of such centers takes place during November and December, respectively 5 and 11 centers per month.

Tab.3.1. Annual dispersal of cyclonic and anticyclonic influence (per day)

Baric activity I II III IV V VI VII VIII IX X XI XII Year

Cyclonic 15 15 17 14 15 10 6 6 8 12 19 20 177

Anticyclonic 16 13 14 16 16 20 25 25 22 19 11 11 188

Considering what was mention above, and the very broken relief of the country, the distance from the sea and the altitude above sea level, specific regions of Albania are characterized by very different values of climate elements. Based on these significant differences, Albania is divided in four main climate zones and thirteen subzones. For the purpose of this study, it will be sufficient to mention only four climate zones: Mediterranean Lowland Zone, Mediterranean Hilly Zone, Mediterranean pre-Highland Zone and Mediterranean Highland Zone.

In the map where it is shown the zoning of the Albanian territory according to the climate features, it can be clearly distinguished that the regions of concern are part of the Mediterranean Highland Zone.

As it was mentioned above, the relief and particularly the altitude above sea level presents a specific factor that influences in the climate variety.

From the analysis of plentiful information (for time series over 30 years for the main meteorological elements) that the Albanian climatologists have gained through their studies, it is evidenced that in altitudes higher than 1000-1300 m., high oscillations in the climatic elements regime appear. Therefore, the Mediterranean Highland Zone, according to the specific peculiarities of the climate elements, is divided in four subzones: the northern Mediterranean Highland subzone, eastern Mediterranean Highland subzone, southeastern Mediterranean Highland subzone, and southern Mediterranean Highland subzone.

3.2. Climate features of the Albanian Alps

From the climate point of view, due to its geographical position, nature and relief, the region of the Albanian Alps is part of the northern Mediterranean Highland subzone.

This subzone includes all the mountains that are spread on the right side of the flow of rivers Valbona and Drini.

The different relief forms, valleys that penetrate deep in the region and altitudes that are almost uniform, give to this subzone a particular character even from the physical and geographical point of view.

The generalization of the climate features of this region is very difficult and complicated due to the very distinguished variety of particular areas of the Albanian Alps. Moreover, it should be pointed out that over the altitudes 1300 m above sea level there is no any regular station in the framework of the national meteorological net, referring to the standards of the WMO.

However, through the consultations with analyses and studies carried out by native and foreign researchers, the general features of Albanian Alps can be evidenced.

The Alps are the coldest area of our country. They also present the most affected zone by precipitations during the year and where the absence of humidity is less occurring and, as a consequence, the forests cover their major part. The thermal features of the area are determined mainly by the altitude above sea level.

The average temperature of January, the most representative month of the winter season and at the same time the coldest one, in the lower part of this subzone, i.e. in the territory with altitude less than 1250 m, has a value of 00 C or lower, but not less than -30

C. In those part of the Alps area that have an altitude more than 1300 m above sea level, the average temperature of January fluctuates between - 40 C and – 60 C. In some other parts of the Alps territory with higher altitudes, particularly in those parts that have no opportunely exposition to get more heat through direct solar radiation, the average temperature of this month is – 80 C.

Regarding the summer season, it can be said that it is cool and very distinct from the other parts of the Albanian territory. Thus, the average air temperature in July, the most representative month of the summer season and at the same time the warmest one, varies from 15 to 180C. In some particular areas of the Alps, this temperature reaches up to 210 C.

It should be emphasized that in some parts of this region, particularly in those that have higher altitude above sea level, the average temperature has positive values during more than 7 to 8 months of the year.

The superabundant precipitations and the low values of temperature in this region are evidently strong premises for the presence and long duration of the snow. So, at the gauging meteorological station of Dragobia a snow thickness of 250 cm is registered.

Another parameter that expresses the climate particularities of the thermal regime of this region is also the average annual temperature. In the lower part of this subzone this parameter is fluctuating between 7 and 110 C, whereas in higher part of the region it fluctuates from 4 to 6 0 C.

In the thermal regime of this region, a specific role in the climate analyses plays the evidence of the specific features of the extreme values that are well presented by the absolute extreme values, particularly by the minimal temperatures. From the multi-annual analyses gathered by the meteorological stations that are installed in this region (we will describe it in the following part), the absolute minimal values for the lower part of the region are between -10 and – 13 0 C, whereas during some years with extremely cold winter these minimal values have reached up to -20 and -22 0 C. Depending on the relief forms, they can come at even lower values. In the higher altitudes, the minimal values can drop till -27 0 C.

The harshness of the winter season in the Albanian Alps can be seen also by the number of days with frost during the year; in the lower parts there are about 100-110 days with frost, meanwhile in upper parts about 150-170 days.

The vegetation period in the Albanian Alps is quite short compared with the other regions of Albania. In the lower parts, the average temperature goes above 100 C only in the third decade of April or in the begining of May, meanwhile the period with average temperature above 70 C starts at first decade of April and ends at first decade of November. It is a well-known fact that in the Albanian Alps region there is high amount of rainfall throughout the year. From the data obtained during many years, we can conclude that the Albanian Alps are one of the wettest regions in Europe. This is mainly due to the geographical position and especially because of the exposition towards wet air masses and high altitudes above sea level. The average rainfall in the Albanian Alps is 2000 – 2005 mm per year. In general, most of the rain falls in the cold half of the year (November – March). It is worth mentioning that in some parts of the Alps during specific years are registered more than 3500 mm rainfall, and some meteorogical stations have registered even 4000 mm per year. The slopes exposed towards west have the biggest amount of rainfall. In eastern slopes it is noticed a decrease of the amount of rainfall.

The number of days with more than 1 mm of rainfall is usually 110-140 each year for the entire region.

It is obvous that the high quantity of rainfall combined with the specific thermic regime of low temperatures, creates favourable conditions for the snow-cover, which in the lower altitudes can last 60-100 days per year and in higher parts 130-160 days per year. In particular parts of the region, especially in high altitudes, the snow-cover is permanent throughout the year.

The maximal level of snow-cover is directly dependant on relief formations of the region. From the climatological analyses of the information collected during several years in the meteorological stations located at the lower part of the Albanian Alps, we can conclude that the maximal thickness of snow is usually 1.5-2.5 m. In the upper parts of the Alps the maximal level can reach up to 4 meters.

The air movement regime, known in meteorology as wind, is dependant on the period of year, baric formations that pass through the region and especially on relief formations. Climatological studies based on the amount of information collected, have shown that during the period May-October the predominant winds are from south and southwest, whereas during the cold half of the year the main directions of the winds are from northern and eastern quadrants.

In the Albanian Alps a characteristic wind is formed, called “murlan” that, depending on its origin, can be classified as cyclonic or anti-cyclonic wind.

It is obvious that the description of the climatic features of an area should be done through the climatological analyses of the main meteorological elements. This analysis requires the collection, elaboration and statistical treatment of the main meteorological element’s time series, which can be derived from surveys and recordings in meteorological stations set up according to the International Meteorological Organization. In table 3.2 are given the meta-data about meteorological stations taken into account for the climatic studies of the Albanian Alps.

The key to the above table:

Rp- Total solar radiation

T – Air temperature

R- Atmospheric rain, any type of rainfall

L- Air humidity

E- Wind

D- Sunshine period

SH- Horizontal view

V- Cloudiness

Tab. 3.2 Meta-Data of meteorological stations

Meteorological Station

Geographical Position Meteorological elements

Survey period Φ (dg,min) λ(dg,min) hs (m) Start End

Bogë 42 24 19 39 1000 T,R 1941 Dragobi 42 26 19 58 525 T,R 1950 Theth 42 23 19 47 740 T,R 1950 Razmë 42 21 19 34 1050 Rp,T,L,R,E,D,V,SH,N 1961 Rapsh 42 24 19 30 750 T,R 1970 Vermosh 42 35 19 43 1143 T,R 1950

3.3. Solar radiation and sunshine period regime

The information for total solar radiation and the period of sunshine collected over several years in the Razma actinometrical station has been analyzed for the evaluation of solar energy regime in the study area.

The inter-monthly range of the total solar radiation over the horizontal surface of the area (Wh/m2/day) and apportion of monthly sunshine period, are taken into account for evaluating the heat coming from the sun over time.

0

1000

2000

3000

4000

5000

6000

7000

I II III IV V VI VII VIII IX X XI XII

Muajte

Die

llzim

i (o

rex10)

Rre

zati

mi

(Wh

/m2/d

ite)

rrezatim Diellzimi

Figure 3.1. The monthly apportion of total radiation and sunshine period

We can conclude that the Albanian Alps are one of the regions that receive lesser heat from the sun. The average amount of solar energy received from one unit of horizontal surface (1 m2) in the Alps region is 1364 kWh/m2, meanwhile for the entire country it is 1500 kWh/m2, whereas in southern and southeastern regions it is over 1535 kWh/m2.

From figure 3.1 we can note that the monthly average value of total radiation has a maximal value in July and a minimal one in December. This occurrence has similar features with the astronomic daylight continuance.

From the analyses of the monthly apportion of solar energy quantity per unit of surface, we can see that the value ranges from 1481 kWh/m2 in December to 6371 kWh/m2 in July. Meanwhile it is noted that the average value of total solar radiation is higher in the spring season (4146 kWh/m2) than in autumn (3023 kWh/m2).

The monthly apportion of sunshine hours follows more or less the same order. It is worth to clarify that a sunshine period is that time interval of the day where the intensity of the total radiation is not less than 120 W/m2.

From the detailed analyses of the monthly average values of sunshine periods, it is noted that the study area has the lowest values in the country, and this happens due to the region’s orography. In Razma station there are recorded on the average 2210 hours with sunshine compared with 2800 hours in the Western Lowland of Albania. The Alps region has 315 hours of sunshine during July and only 100 hours in December.

3.4. Thermal regime of the region

To define the region’s thermal regime, air temperature time series of the six mentioned monitoring stations have been analyzed (tab. 2.1). As it was previously mentioned, the geographical location of the area creates favorable conditions for low air temperatures. More precisely, the air temperature in Vermosh is 6.80 C, in Thethi 9.9o C, in Rapsh and Dragobi is almost the same, 10.60 C. The monthly distribution of average temperature is clearly distinguishable. Even in this case this distribution (Fig. 2.2) is closely correlated with a co-sinusoidal trigonometric function.

-5

0

5

10

15

20

25

I II III IV V VI VII VIII IX X XI XII

Muajt

T.

mes (

0C

)

dragobi rapsh theth vermosh

Figure 3.2 Monthly distribution of average air temperatures

The lowest average air temperature values in the above meteorological stations are noticed during the winter period; more precisely, the average temperatures of January (the coldest month) for the four stations are: Vermosh – 2.90C, Dragobi – 0.40C, Theth 00C and Rapsh 2.3 0C.

The highest temperatures in the Albanian Alps are observed during summer period. The warmest month in this region is July with a slight difference from August. The average temperatures in July can vary from 15.70C (Vermosh) to 20.40C (Dragobi).

Furthermore, the autumn season results warmer than the spring season. If we take into consideration the average season temperatures of Thethi monitoring station, it results that in spring the average temperature is 9.0 0C, whereas in autumn it is 11.20C. The same features are observed for the average minimal temperatures.

The average air temperatures in the Albanian Alps are dependent on the altitude, and it there is an obvious decrease of the temperature when the altitude is higher. In this region, it has been observed a decrease of 0.62oC for every 100 m of altitude above sea level. In this regard, to obtain plausible information over the thermal regime in the Albanian Alps, it is necessary to calculate the average monthly temperatures of the meteorological stations with a gradient of 0.62oC per altitudes of 100 m above sea level.

The presence of temperatures below 00C is another important parameter of the thermal regime. From the information available up to now, it is known that these temperatures are usually present since the second decade of October till the first decade of May.

An important feature that should be taken into account for the Albanian Alps is the wide range of extreme temperature values. For example, in Dragobi the higher air temperature of 37.5 0C has been recorded in 15.08.1963 and the lower value of – 20.00C in 25.01.1963. Similarly, in Vermoshi station the above statistics are as follows: The higher value of 33.90C was observed on 07.08.1978, and the lower value – 22.00C was recorded on 19.11.1985.

3.5 Atmospheric precipitations

An important element of a region’s climate is rainfall. The evaluation and analyses of this element have high practical values for the exploration and management of natural resources. The regime of atmospheric precipitations in this area has a Mediterranean character, taking also into account the geographic position of the region. In other words, most of the precipitations are concentrated in the colder period of the year, meanwhile in the warmer period there are less precipitations. In this region there is an ampleness of rainfalls and, as it was mentioned previously, the Albanian Alps are the area with the most precipitations in the territory of Albania. On the average, there is 2400 mm rainfall per year; meanwhile the overall country average is 1450 mm.

A significant parameter that expresses Mediterranean climate features is the proportion of rainfall during the cold season compared to the yearly amount of rainfall. In this case (according to the data available from several years) this proportion varies from 68 to 72%.

The analysis of monthly amount of rainfall shows that the wettest month is November with 360 mm of rainfall on the average. On the other hand, the driest month is July, with only 88 mm of rainfall on the average. In figure and table 33 it is shown the monthly distribution of atmospheric precipitations for the stations of Boga, Dragobi, Rapsh, Theth and Vermosh.

0

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300

350

400

450

500

I II III IV V VI VII VIII IX X XI XII

Muajte

Rre

sh

jet

(mm

)

boge dragobi rrapsh theth vermosh

Figure 3.3 Monthly distribution of atmospheric precipitations

As we can see from this figure, the monthly distribution of rainfall in each meteorological station has more or less the same character. From the analyses of this information it results that there is a significant increase of the rainfalls depending on the altitude above sea level. The results for this region show that there is a rainfall increase of 50 mm for every altitude of 100 meters above sea level.

Another indicator that characterizes the atmospheric precipitations regime is their intensity. In the Albanian Alps there are several records of huge amounts of rainfall within 24 hours. As an example is Boga on 15.12.1963, where it has been a rainfall amount of 420.4 mm within 24 hours, and this represents the highest value for the entire meteorological network in Albania.

The expected values of heavy atmospheric rainfalls, and periods of their repetition have been calculated approximately with bi-exponential distribution, bearing in mind the importance of intensive rainfalls for several branches of economy and particularly for planning and building hydro-technical objects.

Table 3.3. Maximal 24 hour-rainfalls (in mm) for different repetition periods

Repetition period (years) Station 5 10 20 50 100 Bogë 189 216 242 276 301 Dragobi 164 191 216 249 274 Theth 242 281 319 367 404 Vermosh 124 139 153 172 186 Rapsh 158 178 198 224 243

The analysis of the annual data of snow precipitations is useful for defining the climatic features of a region, and especially for evidencing water sources and their character. It is obvious that due to low temperature values during winter months, snow precipitations is something common that occurs every year and represents an important water resource for the region.

3.6. Wind regime

Due to the geographical position and various relief features of the area, it is very difficult and complicated to assess precisely the region’s wind regime. In spite of the usual factors that influence the creation and intensification of air movement, the orographic factor plays an important role for this region. It is worth mentioning that the density of climatological stations in this region is quite low and this often influences the credibility and quality of the obtained information, which is more evident regarding the wind data. In this region there is an intense periodic weaving of mountainous winds, valley winds, etc.

However, the description of the wind characteristics with its two components, speed and direction, for the Razma station, is quite interesting for researchers of various fields. For this purpose, “combined wind roses” have been created for January and July (as more representative months of their seasons), and for the entire Year.

Figure 3.4. Combined wind roses (Razma station)

Razem - January (Q=46.1%)

0

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20N

NE

E

SE

S

SW

W

NW

f s*2

Razem - July (Q=61.4%)

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15 N

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s*2

Razem - Year (Q=52.3%)

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s*2

IV. Flora and Vegetation of the Albanian Alps

Introduction

As a result of diverse relief, geographical position, geological factors, land formations, hydrological net and climate conditions, the Albanian Alps are distinguished among other parts of the country for their rich biodiversity, high number of flora and fauna species. The Albanian Alps represent the top wealthy site of the country in terms of its flora reaches. On the other side, compared with other European countries, Albania represents one of the countries with high number of species in terms of a small territory. So, from aprocsimately 11 000 plant species that are registered at the Flora of Europe, in Albania there are found about 3 250 species that constitute 30% of the European Flora. Among them there are 180 sub-endemic species and 400 Balkan. In the Alps region there are recorded more than 1000 plant specie that comprises 31% of the Albanian Flora, 22% of the Balkan Flora and 11% of the European Flora. These species belong to different families and genera of the world vegetation.

Albania is offering very diverse nature conditions that are followed by a rich diversity of endemic plant species, sub-endemic and relicts, and some other elements related to Mediterranean flora. The Vegetation in Albania originates from the Tertiary period and this is shown up through some relict species. Up from this time can be considered Wulfenia baldacci, which can be found in the Albanian part of the Alps and it presents a quite interesting habitat for that.

4.1. Vegetation zones

The high number of species and landscape diversity has been precondition for the creation of many habitats that are different among them, and are accompanied by various plant associations and vegetative communities. The habitats are quite influenced by the varied climate conditions of the surrounding area. Looking to the vertical distribution of the vegetation in the Alps area, there can be distinguished three zones as following:

The oak zone

The beech zone and

The alpine pastures zone.

The oak zone starts at the altitudes about 400 m and reaches till 800 m. The oak zone is mainly spread in the hilly and pre-mountainous regions. The main representatives among mesophile species are: Quercus petraea (Turkey oak), Q. cerris (turkey oak) and xerophile oak species like Q. pubescens (pubescent oak), Q. trojana (oak) and Q. fraineto (Common oak). For this area, it is important the presence of chestnut (Castanea sativa) in Tropoja and in the valley of Kiri, Rrjodhi and Reçi. In the higher part of this zone, in the section where the oak

meets beech, there are found some endemic species like Ranunculus hayekii, and rare ones like Viola kosanini (Gorge of Rapshe).

The beech zone is the second zone and it is spread over the oak zone in altitudes till 1800 m above sea level, like in the areas of Vermoshi, Cukali, Thethi, Fushzezë etc. In this zone, except the beech (Fagus sylvatica), in altitudes over 1400 m, which are characterized by Mediterranean-mountainous climate, some other wood plant species are present like maple tree (Acer obtusatum), fir (Abies alba), Bosnian pine tree (Pinus leucodermis) and Norway spruce (Picea abies).

Compared with the oak zone, this zone is characterized by a diverse plant associations, where the endemic specie of Wulfenia baldacci (Parun, Qafë e Shtogut and Shtegu i Dhenve), and a large number of sub-endemic species are of specific scientific interest.

These formations are widely distributed and they have significant scientific and economic importance. In these forest areas many bird and mammal species with particular importance are present.

The alpine pastures zone. In this zone, about 12% of the Alps region flora is present. It is situated over the beech zone, where the Mediterranean mountainous climate dominates with the presence of continental climate, mainly in the calcareous rocks and less in serpentine ones. The flora is mainly herbaceous with the high presence of species from family Graminaceae and some shrub species like Salix setosa, Dryas octopetala, Daphne oleoides, Arctostaphillos uva-ursi, Juniperus communis subsp. nana etc., are present.

In floristic spectrum, it is characteristic the presence of endemic species (1.4% of the flora in the zone, and 25% of the Albanian endemic species), like Ligusticum albanicum (Bjeshkët e Namuna), Petasites doerfleri (Bjeshkët e Namuna, Jezercë), and of about 50 sub-endemic species: Asperula doerfleri, Silene macrantha, Edrianthus serpyllifolius, Aquilegia dalmatica, Wulfenia carinthiaca (blecici).

The most important corological groups are: Mediterranean species 24%, Eurasiatic 20.5%, European 19%, boreal 13% (alpine and sub-alpine), Balkan 7%, cosmopolite etc.

The area, which extends from the fluvial valleys 400-500 m high till the altitude of 2700m (Jezerca Peak), is characterized by a high diversity of ecosystems and habitats, mountainous rivers, shrubs, coniferous and deciduous woodlands, alpine and sub-alpine pastures, high mountains etc.

This vast habitats diversity together with the broken relief are a good shelter for the conservation of a considerable number of rare, endemic and sub-endemic species. So, from 26 endemic plant species which are found in Albania: (1. Arenaria serpentini, 2. Polygonum albanicum, 3. Ranunculus degenii, 4. Lunaria telekiana, 5. Sanguisorba albanica, 6. Alchemilla albanica, 7. Genista hassertiana, 8. Astragalus autrani, 9. Hypericum haplophylloides, 10. Viola dukadjinica, 11. Ligusticum albanicum, 12. Forsythia europaea, 13. Moltkia doerferi, 14. Alkanna sandeithi, 15. Ajuga piskoi, 16. Stachys sericiphylla, 17. Stachys albanica, 18. Wulfenia baldaccii, 19. Asyneuma comosiforme, 20. Petasites doerfleri, 21. Centaure košaninii, 22. Centaure candelabrum, 23. Crepis bertiscea, 24. Colchicum pieperanum, 25. Festucopsis serpentini, and 26. Crex markgrafi), 4 (four) of them (Wulfenia baldaccii, Petasites doerfleri, Ligusticum albanicum, and Ranunculus hayekii) are present in the Alps zone.

From 180 sub-endemic species that are present in Albania, about 40 species are present in the Albanian Alps area with a common distribution space in Montenegro and Kosovo, like Asperula doerfleri, Campanula albanica, Viola kosanini, S. macrantha, Edrianthus serpyllifolius, Geranium dalmaticum, Aquilegia dinarica, Wulfenia carinthiaca (blecici), Plantago reniformis, Teucrium arduinii, Tanacetum cinerarifolium and some other relicts like Taxus baccata, Corylus colurna, Dryas octopetala etc.; the main part of them is preserved in the Alps area and Shkodra region. The major number of sub-endemic species is concentrated in the Alps area. From a survey about the floristic elements of the northern part of the country, it results that there are present many European, Eurasiatic and boreal species, which demonstrates an influence of various climate types. This can be stated even from the data of biological spectrum, where the hemichryptophytes and geophytes together comprise about 55% of the regions flora. The therophytes comprise 25% of the regions flora, and are typical for the areas with Mediterranean climate; this again shows the high importance of the Albanian Alps in these terms.

Due to the human intervention and other influences on the nature, it is not difficult to point out that there is an overexploitation of habitats and species, which in many cases have caused degradation and impoverishment of ecosystems, damages over flora and fauna and, as a consequence, there are threatened and endangered species. Therefore it is necessary the rate of human intervention over the nature to be defined, and the measures for protecting nature values and ecosystems to be undertaken.

Based on flora situation and the rate of endangered communities, a classification of endangered species of Albania is made. According to different surveys, in the Albanian Flora there are 320 endangered and rare species, or 10% of them.

In the Alps flora, there are about 60-70 species, or 4% of the Albanian Flora, that belong to 60 families.

According to IUCN categorization, endangered plant species include various plants that belong to different groups which are rare and in some case not well studied.

In Albanian Red List (1995) “Rare and endangered plant species of Albania” (Ruci et alt.) and in the REC (Regional Environmental Center) publication on “Plants, plant associations and endangered flora species”, there are listed different categories with different status that should be considered for their protection. According to the IUCN Categories, 320 plant species are included in this list, which are rare and endangered for the Albanian territory and for the Alps area, and they are as following:

Critically Endangered (CR) 16 5%

Endangered (EN) 58 12%

Vulnerable (V) 20 6.3%

Lower risk (LR) 194 28.6%

Data deficient (DD) 32 7%

From the Alps flora, in the first category (CR) there are listed 3 endemic species (Wulfenia baldaccii, Ligusticum albanicum, and Ranunculus hayekii), 1 sub-endemic (Viola kosanini) and one Tertiary relict species (Taxus baccata).

The reasons of being endangered are the restricted or limited area of distribution (Wulfenia baldaccii, Ranunculus hayekii, Viola kosanini etc.), overexploitation by the human activity (medicinal, industrial and oil bearing plants etc.), or very limited number

of individuals. There are more plants listed within category four (LR), which are mostly Balkan.

The Albanian Alps are distinguished and for the species that are protected by international convents such are Bern Convention and Directive of Habitats (Annex II (b) and Annex IV (b)), where most important are Buxbaumia viridis (Moug. ex Lam. & DC.) Brid. ex Moug. & Nestl., Ramonda serbica Pancic; Geum bulgaricum Panc. Cerastium dinaricum G. Beck & Szysz and Arabis scopoliana Boiss. In this area are naturally growing and 32 plant species that fulfill criterions to be important plant species. Their endangered national and international conservation status is given in the table 3. 4.

Table 4.1 Threatened species at IPAs in north Albanian Alps. Criterion A

Taxon Name

IPA Criterion

Conservation Status

1 Aquilegia dinarica G.Beck. A(i) R 2 Campanula albanica Witasek A(iv) E 3 Carduus ramosissimus Pancic. A(i) R 4 Cerastium dinaricum G. Beck & Szysz. A(ii) 5 Crepis albanica (Jav.) Babc. A(i) R 6 Crepis baldaccii Halacsy. A(i) R 7 Crepis bertiscea Jav. A(i) R 8 Edraianthus serpyllifolius (Vis.) DC. A(iv) R 9 Fritillaria messanensis Raf. ssp. gracilis (Ebel) Rix. A(ii) E 10 Geranium dalmaticum (G.Beck) Rech.fil A(iv) R 11 Geum bulgaricum Panc. A(ii) 12 Ligusticum albanicum Jav. A(i) Ex/E 13 Lunaria telekiana Jav. A(iii) CR 14 Melampyrum doerfleri Ronniger. A(i) R 15 Minuartia velenovski (Rohlena) Hayek. A(i) R 16 Petasites doerfleri Hayek. A(i) R 17 Phyteuma pseudorbicularis Pant. A(i) R 18 Pinus heldereichi H.Christ var. leucodermis

Antoine. A(i) R

19 Plantago reniformis G.Beck. A(i) R 20 Ramonda serbica Pancic. A(ii) R 21 Ranunculus hayekii Dorfl. A(i) Ex 22 Rhamnus intermedius Steud.et Hochst. A(i) R 23 Sesleria robusta Schot ssp. scanderbeggii (Ujhelyi)

Deyil. A(iii) E

24 Sesleria wettsteinii Dorfl et Hayek. A(iv) E 25 Silene macrantha (Pancic) H.Neumayer. A(i) R 26 Stachys beckeana Dorfl. & Hayek. A(i) R 27 Teucrium arduini L. A(i) R 28 Thesium auriculatum Vandas. A(i) R 29 Thlaspi mycrophyllum Boiss. et Orph. A(iv) R 30 Viola elegantula Schott. A(i) R 31 Viola kosaninii (Degen) Hayek A(i) R 32 Wulfenia baldaccii Degen. A(i) Ex/E

The conservation of these species will be more effective through their in-situ

conservation, i.e. habitats conservation. For this purposes, CORINE habitats are

determined in Albania considering the floristic composition and the rate of threatening by different factors. The protected areas in Albania (10.4% of the territory) are related to different habitats and species of concern. In the Albanian Alps, actually there are proclaimed only three protected areas: National Park of Thethi (2630 ha), Valbona National Park (8000 ha) and Strict Nature Reserve of Gashi (3000 ha).

Regarding the work for protecting the species and habitats, the National Strategy for Biodiversity Conservation and an Action Plan are prepared (in the framework of activities for implementation of the Biodiversity Convention), and some short-term and long-term actions are foreseen. According to the Strategy, the extension of protected areas system with Bjeshkët e Namuna (including Thethi, Valbona, Vermoshi, Lëpusha, Çerem, and Curraj) as a new National Park is proposed.

This can be also conceived as a trans-boundary protected area. Thus it will include the forests composed by fir, pine tree species, oak species, and alpine pastures, mountainous streams and very valuable wildlife species. This is the only area where the habitats of Picea abies can be found; the central European element is distributed just there. Also, mammal species like brown bear (Ursus arctos), wolf (Canis lupus), lynx (Lynx lynx), chgamoise (Rupicapra rupicapra), roe dear (Capreolus capreolus), and wild boar (Sus scrofa) are present there, whereas among the birds there should be mentioned Tetrao urogallus and the eagle (Aquila chrysaetos). The zone also presents a mountainous important plant area (IPA). In the stream waters of Valbona and Shala rivers the globally endangered mammal species of otter (Lutra lutra) is living.

Besides its high scientific values, the area is also important for its potential tourism development, particularly mountainous and alpine tourism.

Albania is part of several international agreement and conventions, such as: The Convention on Wild habitats and wildlife fauna of Europe (Bern Convention), the Convention on migratory wild species (Bon Convention), the Convention on world heritage protection (UNESCO), and the Convention of Biological Diversity etc. The extension of the Alps protected areas will enable the fulfillment of the national commitments in the framework of these international documents.

In Bern Convention there are included 18 plant species that are growing in Albania, while in the Habitats Directive (in its annex 2(b) and IV (b)) there are listed 9 other species that are found in our country. From the species included in these lists, three of them are present in the Albanian Alps.

EUNIS habitats of the Albanian Alps are presented in the table 3.5, as parts of two Important transboundary Plant Areas (IPA): Rrapsha Gorge and Northern Albanian Alps.

Table 4. 2. EUNIS level 2 habitat types in transboundary IPAs. Criterion B

EUNIS Level 2 Code

Botanical Richness Assessments for Northern Albanian IPAs EUNIS Level 2 Habitat

C2 C2 Surface running waters E1 E1 Dry Grasslands E2 E2 Mesic Grasslands E4 E4 Alpine & sub-alpine grasslands F3 F3 Temperate & mediterraneo-montane scrub habitats F4 F4 Temperate shrub heathland G1 G1 Broadleaved deciduous woodland G3 G3 Coniferous woodland

G4 G4 Mixed deciduous & coniferous woodland H2 H2 Screes H4 H4 Snow or ice-dominated habitats

The Albanian Alps are an important part of one of the most important bio-geographical zones in our country. It is worth mentioning that there are still some virgin areas, which calls for urgent action for conservation purposes.

The global strategy for plant conservation (GSPC) that requests to ensure the protection of 50% of the important plant areas until 2010 is another premise for undertaking new protection measures in the Albanian Alps.

4.2. Protection and management

From the above analyses of the Alps as an IPA, we can say that even though there is less human influence in the region, there are interventions to some extent like woodcuttings that damage the forests, destructions from the fire, etc. Furthermore, the potential development of tourism in the future could bring overexploitation and habitat fragmentation.

Another recent disturbing phenomenon is the lack of garbage management, which in a near future will cause more complicated problems like underground water pollution.

A vast and important portion of the Albanian Alps region is not yet included in the existing network of protected areas. This means that in the future we might have an overexploitation of the forests, and this will result in a loss of information about important plants in the area.

It is obvious that there is an urgent need that the entire region receives a protection status considering also the near future developments. The recent improvements in the country infrastructure, especially in roads construction and rehabilitation, will create favorable conditions for overexploitation and mismanaged development in the area, with negative consequences from the ecological point of view.

4.3. Management responsibilities

The protection and preservation of the important plant areas is a legal obligation for every level of governance and for every government. This obligation derives from the fifth objective of the Worldwide Strategy for Plant Conservation, where it is envisioned that until 2010 50% of the areas classified as important for plants should be protected.

Our opinion is that the Albanian Government, through the Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Water Administration, in its short- and medium-term objectives should foresee the identification of IPA-s and the re-evaluation of the up to now achievements (existing protected areas) in order to include in the protected areas network IPA-s like Natura 2000 and Emerald sites, which do not have yet a protection status.

The requirements and obligations that derive from the European Strategy for Plant Protection (target 2.14), applied in the National Strategy and Action Plan for Biodiversity Protection, clearly define the species and priority habitats that should be taken into consideration.

The Strategic Action Plan for Plant Conservation in Protected Areas and IPA-s, applied through several studies and projects, emphasizes the importance of a

management system in Protected Areas; the acceleration of work for the proclamation and enlargement of PA-s would create favorable conditions for Local Action Plans, achieving thus the fulfillment of standards in a national level.

This strategy includes several important issues regarding the conservation actions:

The status and need for in-situ and ex-situ conservation of endangered plants.

This consists in identification of institutional and legal responsibilities for the measures to be undertaken in habitat and ecosystem conservation. It is also important to mention the role of people awareness about this issue, so that they can see it not only as a source of profit, but also as a part of natural heritage.

The need and the potentials for the implementation of an information exchange system

Such a mechanism would help for a more rational and sustainable use of biological resources, always keeping in mind the protection status and needs.

Assessment of capacities and monitoring selectivity of the specific threats towards plant diversity

The main threats to plant diversity are present in forest ecosystems. Here could be mentioned trees drying, fires, infections and pests. Also human activity has a big impact in this matter (illegal woodcutting, overexploitation, etc.). The area of the Albanian Alps is quite exposed to these threats and mainly to illegal woodcutting. Therefore it is urgently needed to undertake protection measures through interagency cooperation and exchanges, as this phenomenon is directly linked with socio-economic problems of the communities living in the area.

Measures to eliminate the threats to Biodiversity

In the Albanian Alps there are several important parts which need as soon as possible a detailed action plan as there exist various threats related to the human factor, lack of protection status, ineffective administration, lack of monitoring, etc. This can be achieved through:

Consolidating the protection and monitoring system by involving the local administration and communities.

Improving the economic situation as well as poverty reduction through financial initiatives for a sustainable development and biodiversity conservation.

Building local capacities for increasing knowledge and awareness among local population about environment and biodiversity protection as an important part of natural and socio-economic values.

Although a lot of work has be done for data collection about flora species, definition and distribution of endemic, sub-endemic, rare and threatened plants, and for their protection in our country, we think that much more work should be done in the future. For example, there is a lack of information about the distribution of many endemic and rare species, and their actual status or conditions, especially for species that are found in high altitudes and are almost inaccessible (Wulfenia baldacci, Ligusticum albanicum, Petasites doerfleri, etc.), like in Bjeshkët e Namuna. This issue has been emphasized even by foreign botanists (Montenegro, Kosovo, etc.).

Therefore, undertaking a trans-boundary initiative involving Montenegro, Kosovo, and any other country with the purpose of a complete study about rare and threatened species and their conservation is a necessity. This approach is also considered as the backbone for the creation of the Peace Park – an initiative among Albania, Montenegro, Kosovo and international partners (Balkan Peace Park) – aiming to promote sustainable development and biological diversity conservation in the region.

4.4. Balkan Peace Park (BPP)

International Peace Parks are natural areas expanding over two or more countries, equally protected in each side of the borders, where each part profits without menacing the borders integrity or interests of the other. In the World there are more than 600 parks of this kind. The idea for a peace park in the Balkans came as a result of the political and economical developments in the region by the end of the 20th century. The conflict situation and political instability of that time caused nature degradation in each of the three countries.

As an opponence to these negative developments, the civil society – environmental NGOs along the three sides of the borders, together with many activists for peace from Colgate University in USA and Bradford in UK – is endeavoring for several years to promote the idea for the creation of a trilateral Peace Park in the region.

4.4.1. Vision, mission and strategic objectives of the Balkan Peace Park

Vision:

Promotion and enhacement of peace, harmony, free movement, cultural and natural diversity, sustainable development and prosperity of local communities in the region between Albania, Montenegro and Kosovo.

Mission:

The Peace Park among Montenegro, Albania and Kosovo offers the only possibility for protecting this alpine region, with high biological diversity and considered as the last untouched natural wilderness of Europe, and as an important tool for promoting and securing peace in the region.

Three strategic objectives:

To preserve natural, cultural and spiritual diversity in the border area between Kosovo, Montenegro and Albania

To promote peace and harmony among people and nature, and free movement beyond political borders and barriers.

To enhace local sustainable development based in organized family eco-tourism, organic farming and traditional stockbreeding, handicraft, proper management of natural rescources, development of people’s potential in creating common visions for neighbouring communities, cultural exchanges and cooperations in the frame of socio-economical, political and security in the mountains and valleys of the three countries.

4.5. The Albanian Alps National Park

The Alps National Park is composed by a variety of ecosystems, from forests to high alpine areas, untouched landscapes and formations, which comprise an important natural heritage for the future.

There are important forest areas to be protected in forest ecosystems, like many virgin forests dominated mainly by beech (Fagus sylvatica), bosnian pine (Pinus heldreichii), white Fir (Abies alba), balkan pine (Pinus peuce), norway spruce (Picea abies), mountain pine (Pinus mugho), sessile oak (Quercus petraea), Chestnut (Castanea sativa), hornbeam (Ostrya carpinifolia), etc.

The vertical amplitude varies from 1200 to 2500 m above sea level. Consequently, there is a high variability of the climatic factors. In this regard, two belts of vegetations are present in the area: (i) the broadleaved-mix mesophyllic forest belt, represented by beech massifs (Fagus sylvatica), Bosnian pine (Pinus heldreichii), White fir (Abies alba Mill), balkan pine (Pinus peuce Griseb), norwey spruce (Picea abies (L) Karsten), mountain pine (Pinus mugho Tuura), sessile oak (Quercus petreaea (Mattuchka), and (ii) alpine pastures belt dominated by Sesaleria (Sesaleria comosa Velen), panicled fescue (Festuca paniculata (L) Schinz&Thell).

In this region, three main vegetation regions are distinguished:

The oak zone: Expanding from 600-800 m above sea level, it is generally much degraded.

This zone can be encountered in the margins of the mountain slopes like in Thethi field, Okol, Valbonë, Rragam, etc. Here mixed oak forests are found (Quercetum mixtum) like: turkey oak (Quercus cerris), hornbeam (Ostrya carpionifolia), hornbeam (Carpinus orientalis), montpellier maple (Acer monspessulanum), hungarian maple(Acer obtusatum), white ash-tree (Fraxinus ornus), whitebeam (Sorbus aria), hazel-tree (Coryllus avellana), cornel-bush (Cornus mas), red cornel(Cornus sanguinea), hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna), black juniper (Juniperus communis), red juniper (Juniperus oxycedrus), (Citisus sp.), clematis (Clematis vitalba), meanwhile a typical under-forest element up to 750 m altitude is wig tree (Cotinus coggygria), which together with common hop (Humulus lupulus) are representatives of the Mediterranean flora.

Much diverse is the herbaceus vegetation in mixed oak forests. Among the most important representatives we can mention perenial rye-grass (Lolium perene), hard grass (Dactylis glomerata), bulbous meadow-grass (Poa bulbosa), violet (Viola odorata), trefoils (Trifolium pratense, T. compestre, T. reptans), vetches (Vicia grandiflora, V. villosa), meadow vetchlig(Lathyrus pratense), white melilot (Melilotus alba), savory (Saturea montana), wall germander (Teucrium chamaedrys dhe T. arduni), thyme (Thymus striatus), clematis (Clematis vitalba), (Drypis spinosa), tacine (Rinanthus minor), two-eard broom-grass (Andropogon gryllus), cornoflower(Centaure sp.), ranunculus (Ranunculus sp), shefered’s purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris).

In springtime, there may be found efemers and efemeroids which bloom immediately after the snow melting, like: primrose (Primula Verna),bolbous corydalis(Corydalis cava), lesser celandine (Ranunculus ficaria), small grape flower (Muscari sp.), saffron (Crocus veluchensis), multifid hellebore (Helleborus multifidus) etc.

In the upper parts of the Alps, close to rivers and in humid places (Vermosh, Okol, Gjecaj, Rragam, etc.), small patches of broadleaved forests can be seen. These include white willow (Salix purpurea), grey willow (Salix cinerea), common alder (Alnus

glutinosa), which can be associated with ash-tree (Fraxinus), elm-tree (Ulmus glabra), wild apple (Malus silvester), wild pear (Pirus amygdaliformis) etc.

The beech zone: This zone lies above the oak zone from 700 m up to 1900 m above sea level.

As a consequence of favorable climatic and soil conditions, the beech forests comprise most of the forest cover in the Albanian Alps. The dominant species in this zone is beech (Fagus silvatica), which may form pure beech forests (Fagetum silvaticae) and, to a less extent, mixed forests. These forests are mainly composed by thick and high woods with the presence of younger and denser woods in altitudes above 1400 m.

Besides beech, more scarcely the white fir can be encountered in this zone (Abies alba), mountain maple (Acer pseudoplatanus), wild poplar (Populus tremula), wild willow (Salix caprea), elsbeere (Sorbus umbellata), wayfaring tree (Viburnum lantana), alatern (Rhamnus fallax) etc.

The beech forests are very dense and create a constant shadow making the under forest vegetation very scarce. In springtime, before the leafing of the beech, halophilic plants can be encountered in open meadows like: cowslip (Primua verna), wind flower (Anemona nemarosa), fumitory (Corydalis cava), lesser celandine (Ranunculus ficaria), dog’s tooth violet (Erythronium dens -canis) etc.

The summer vegetation that grows in beech forests shadow comprises typical sciophyles like: purple woodruf (Asperula odorata), woodruff (Oxalis acetosella), wood spurge(Euphorbia amygdaloides), birdsnest orchid (Neottia nidus - avis), (Cephalanthera rubra) etc. In open meadows, peony can be met (Paeonia mascula), multifid hellebore (Helleboru multifidus), banewort (Atropa beladona), raspberry (Rubus idaeus), bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) etc.

In the upper parts of the beech zone, the Bosnian pine (Pinus heldreichii) is present, which can grow up to altitude of 2200 m, forming the higher border of wood vegetation and often considered as a separate vegetation belt (Pinetum heldreichii). The Bosnian pine forests are pure and the vegetation cover is composed by xerophilous plants. Elements of the under-forest that can be encountered are: mountain avens (Dryas octopetala), globe daisy (Globularia bellidifolia), (Cotoneaster tomentosa); among the herbal vegetation we can mention fern (Pteridium aquilinum), asphodel (Asphodelus microcarpus), hard grass (Dactylis glomerata), many headed wood-rush (Luzula multiflora), primrose (Primula verna), prforate st.john’s wort (Hypericum perforatum), scendet vernal grass (Anthoxanthum odotatum), moorgras (Sesleria nitida), northern meadow-grass (Poa alpina), greyish white thrift (Armeria canescens), feasant’s eye (Narcisus poeticus) etc.

The alpine pastures zone: This zone lies over the beech zone up to 2300 m above sea level.

Typical for this zone is the absence of the forests. The dominating vegetation is composed by herbs and, to a lesser extent, shrubs like (Juniperus nana), obtuse-leaved willow(Salix retusa), drya octopetals (Driada octopetala), cespitose (Globularia bellidifolia) etc.

The main species are from the Graminacea Family: northern meadow- grass (Poa alpina and P. ursina), alpine cat’s tail (Phleum alpine), moorgrass(Sesleria nitida), fescue grass (Festuca varia and F. sulcata), wooly-stalked feather-grass (Stipa pennata), splendit hair-grass (Koeleria splendus), scendet vernal grass (Anthoxanthum

ododratum), grass bent (Agrostis vulgaris); from the Papilionaceaea family: alpine trefoil (Trifolium alpestre), birdsfoot trefoil (Lotus corniculatus), minor milk vetch (Astragalus depresus); from the F. Compositaea: hairy hawkweed (Hierarcium seriocophyllum, H. waldsteinii), alpine hawek’s beard (Crepis alpestris), comoflower(Centaurea hyanaldii), alpine aster (Aster alpinus), sky-blue murgwort (Artemisia eriantha); from the Rosaceeae family: apennine cinquefoil (Potentilla apenina); from the Campanulacea family: montpeljer camfoor plant (Campanula rotundifolia and C. albanica); from the Crucifere family: alpine rock gress (Arabis alpina); from the Ericacea family: alpine bearberry (Arctostaphyllos alpinus) etc.

Fig. 4.1. Zoning concept of Albanian Alps PA (MoEFWA)

In flat areas with average humidity and with acidic soils mat-grass (Nardus stricta) can be encountered, the nutrient value of which is low and animals do not consume it. The vegetation cover of this part is low and rare; consequently it has a low economical value.

Typical for the altitudes above 2300 m in the Alps is the presence of mountain pine (Pinus mughus), a species of pine tree shrub-like that can grow up to 3 m.

As we can notice from the above description, the area is very rich with endemic, rare and threatened plants.

The Albanian Alps include important ecosystems relatively well preserved from the vegetation point of view, with some parts that can be considered real virgin forests. It is the only place in Albania where the Norway spruce (Picea abies) and the wild pine (Pinus sylvestris) can be encountered.

The Albanian Alps offer good opportunities for an improved living of local communities, and for the scientists, students, environmentalist, hikers, climbers, etc., to fulfill their aims and in the same time to really experience the Albanian traditions and culture.

From many studies carried out until now, the Albanian Alps region has been classified as one of the most important IPA-s of Albania and it is planned to be managed as a National Park area (II category, according to IUCN). Based on this classification and its features, a potential zoning is required to be implemented inside the area. According to the above mentioned considerations, we propose a potential zoning as follows.

a. Strict natural reserves (core areas)

These areas may include the higher and less human-influenced parts of the region, covered by virgin forests of beech (Fagus silvatica), Bosnian pine (Pinus heldreichii), white Fir (Abies Alpba Mill),ballkan pine (Pinus Peuce Griseb),norwey spruce (Picea Abies (L)Karsten),mountain pine (Pinus mugho Tuura), which lie in high altitudes above sea level. These areas are mainly in higher parts of the alpine valleys and include many endemic species. Some of the areas are Vermoshi valley, Çeremi valley, Curraj i Epërm valley, Thethi valley, Gashi valley, Bear Meadow valley (in Vermosh), Paruni i Rrjollit (upper part), Curraj-Theth (Derza pass, Kakija peak, etc.).

Purpose: These areas should be preserved untouched and undisturbed, because they include natural habitats, virgin old-growth forests, and endemic floristic and faunistic species. The activities allowed in this zone should not modify or influence in any kind the natural conditions of the area. The visitors can enter but should not leave tracks and open trails. Such areas have to be left to grow spontaneously and free. Every action has to be previously authorized and strictly monitored.

b. Recreation areas (general reserve areas)

Here may be included areas in the fluvial valleys, designated for eco-tourism and winter sports, like the alpine villages and their surrounding territory (Çerem, Vermosh, Lëpushë, Theth, Rragam, Bogë, and Curraj). This zone has to be the best example of a harmonious co-existence between humans and nature, and a good management of the future NP; it includes huge areas of forests and pastures traditionally used by people, but not seriously modified. In this zone, traditional activities can be allowed but with strict monitoring and a rational usage of natural resources. Visitors will find good conditions for tourism and recreation.

c. Sustainable Use areas

These areas are designated for graze, medicinal plant collecting, etc. In the current conditions they are the most overexploited by men and there is an urgent need for undertaking measure to preserve them. Every activity in these areas should be under control and regularly monitored from the park administration. Farming and stockbreeding can continue as usual. This sub-zone is considered as a profit zone and includes areas

of villages in the medium part of the valleys, like Selca, Valbona, Lekbibaj, Ducaj, Shala, etc.

d. Traditional development areas

These areas include parts of the lower and middle sectors of the Alps valleys, like traditional sylvan-pasture systems and agricultural lands. Here the development of tourism is more widely allowed, so that it can help the socio-economic needs of the area communities and will prevent the damages in zones a, b and c. For a better management, this zone may be divided into three sub-zones:

d1 – Inhabited sites (centers of communes like Kelmend, Shalë, Shoshë, Lekbibaj, Bujan, and Shkrel)

d2 – Accommodation facilites (information centres, family tourism, hotels, restaurants)

d3 – Organization of the PA (center of the National Park administration)

V. Entomofauna of the Albanian Alps

The Albanian Alps present high diversity forms of the relief, where dominate the alpine mountainous crests over 1400-1500 m above sea level with a rich vegetal cover, but in the middle of them there are spread even field reliefs with a variety of plants. Their altitude goes up to 2555 m above sea level (Radohima Peak). The mountain ranges like the block of Bjeshkët e Namuna, that of Kunora e Lohës, Valbona, or the plateaus likes that of Veleçik-Bridashë, and more rarely those of sharp mountainous crests, make a big contrast between them. One of the most spread types of the alpine relief is also the glacial relief. Its most typical forms are: the glacial valleys, glacial troughs, karstic hollows and grooves.

The mountainous Mediterranean climate of the region and the water regimen make the Alps to have harsh and wet winters, a long period of frost, and rich precipitations of rain and snow, cool summers and relatively wetter than the other areas of the country.

The vegetal cover of the Alps is rich and various. Like nowhere else, here are found even today plants like: alpine star (Astrus alpestris), mountain pine (Pinus mughus), two kinds of willow (Lalix retusa and Lalix reticulate) etc.

The natural factors, especially the earth-climatic ones and those of the relief, have determined a very clear vertical escalation of the vegetal cover. The Mediterranean shrubs floor goes up to 300-400 m. In this floor there are also found evergreen shrubs like heath or arbutus berry tree. The major part of the oak floor lies in the altitudes of 200-1100 m. The beech floor is the most important one for its economic values and the spacious spreading (after the alpine pastures). It lies on very wide vertical borders that go up from 400 to 1800 m.

Entomofauna of the Albanian Alps demonstrates a wide distribution throughout all the Alps area, by being present in the forests that cover the major part of their territory, in the lawns created by them, in the various meadows and pastures, even in the different agro-biocenoses.

Many species are linked directly with the forest leafy and coniferous woods, with the lichens that cover the trunks of the woods, with the vegetation of the forest floors, with the herbal vegetation of meadows and pastures, with the cultivated vegetation, and with the different watery surroundings. Other species are linked indirectly with the forests, with areas covered by shrubs and herbs, because they serve to this entomofauna as a habitat for different phases of their ontogenesis, for diapauses undergoing, for living out in the unsuitable atmospheric conditions etc.

Being completely fitofagous, polifagous and oligofagous (very rarely, monofagus), the flora of the Alps offers at the same time variety and diversity, keeping in its bosom many rare and endangered species of the Albanian fauna (See: Red Book of the Albanian fauna).

However, the area of the Alps, with its physical-geographical features, its flora and fauna complex, offers much more diversity in every corner of it, and this highlights ecological problems of the ecosystem. From the above mentioned surveys, many species are included in “The Red book of the Albanian fauna”

5.1. Phylum Arthropoda, Class Insecta

The class “Insecta”, with regard to the species, is the richest of the whole animal kingdom. Concerning our country, there are national surveys about some orders of this class, and here are included even those of the Alps that are listed in the respective charts.

Entomofauna of the Alps is rich in species and various on its plenitude. The forests, meadows, pastures, streams, rivers, even its agro-biocenoses have been objects of different entomofaunistic expeditions. The collected material is elaborated and inventoried, by differentiating the species of economic value as defectors, as well as rare and endangered species, which are included in the Red Book of the Albanian Fauna. However, like many other areas of our country, the Alps have an entomofauna that needs further studying. It is interesting and valuable for the human economy and for the nature economy itself, because it is one of the key links of all the nutritive chains of those biocenoses. On the other hand, the forest woods that dominate the Alps economy have defectors that cause damages sometimes (not as much as fires), therefore they must be known regarding their composition as species, as well as their distribution. Thus, in the woodland area of Bordoleci Pass we have met the butterfly Arctia caja which is surprisingly negligible, whereas in some European countries it appears as a defector.

Hereinafter there are listed some of the endangered species that are found in the Alps: Libelloides longicornis L., Erynnis tages L., Hesperia comma L., Parnassius apollo L, Parnassius mnemosyne L., Pieris krueperi Strg., Thecla betulae L., Palaeochrysophanus hippothoe L., Maculinea alcon Den.&Schiff., Maculinea arion Pall., Polyommatus eroides Friv., Coenonympha tullia Mull., Erebia aethiops Esper., Erebia medusa Den.&Schiff., Brenthis hecate Den.&Schiff., Melitaea cinxia L., Mellicta athalia Rott., Zygaena loti L., Euplagia quadripunctaria Poda, Callimorpha dominula L., Tyria jacobaea L., Calosoma sycophanta L., Lucanus cervus L., Purpuricenus kaehleri L, Rosalia alpina L.

No. Order Family Genius Species Location 1 Dermapter

a Labiidae Labis. minor L. Koprishtë

2 Forficulidae Forficula auricularis L. Kalcë, Tamarë, Vermosh 3 smyrnensis Ser. Seferçe, Koprishtë 4 obtusangula Ser. Kalcë, Qafa Bordolecit 5 Anechura Anechura. bipunctata F. Koprishtë 6 Neuropter

a Diladirae Dilar turcicus Hog, Kalcë

7 Osmylis fulvicephalus L. Vermosh 8 Hemerobiidae Boriomyis. betulina Serv. Vermosh, Kërçi djegur 9 Megalonus hirtus L. Vermosh, Kalcë, Q. Bor. 10 Chrysopidae Notochrysa.. italica Rossi. Kalcë, Qafa Bordolecit 11 Chrysopa. vittata Wesm. Tamarë,Dopkë, Lepushë 12 flava Scop Dopkë, Q. Bordolecit 13 vulgaris Schn. Lepushë, Gropa Selcës 14 septempunctat W. Kalcë, Vermosh 15 prasina Burn. Vermosh 16 abbreviata Curt. Livadhi Arushës, Lepush 17 perla L. Tamarë, Lepushë, Kalcë 18 Myrmeleontidae Palpares libelluloides L Kalçë, Tamarë 19 .

Myrmeleon formicarius L Kalçë

20 Ascalaphidae Deleproctophylla australis Fabr. Gropa Selcës, Vermosh 21 Libelloides longicornis L. Livadhi i Arushës 22 Orthoptera Acrididae Polysarchus denticaudus Charp. Q. Bordolecit 23 Gryllus campestris L. Razëm 24 Tettigonidae Tettigonia viridissima L. Razëm 25 caudata Charp. Tamarë 26 Arcyptera fusca Pallas Razëm-Bogë 27 Stenobothrus nigromaculatus Ks Vermosh 28 Gomphocerus sibiricus L Tamarë, Razëm-Bogë 29 Podisma pedestri L. Livadhet verore 30 Odontopodisma albanica Ramme Livadhet verore 31 Hemiptera Miridae Deraeocoris ruber L. Shalabak-Theth 32 serenus Doug&Sc. Razëm, Bogë, Theth 33 Stenodema laevigatum L. Shalabak 34 Adelphocoris lineolatus Goeze Theth 35 Calocoris angularis Fieb. Shalabak, Bogë 36 Lygus pratensis L. Razëm,Bogë, Theth 37 Lygus rugulipennis Pop. Fusha Zezë-Razëm 38 Orthops kalmi L. Shalabak-Theth 39 Liocoris tripustulatus Fabr. Shalabak, Bogë 40 Cyphodema instabile Lucas Razëm, Bogë 41 mendosum Mont. Tamarë, Vermosh 42 Polymerus unifasciatus Fabr. Razëm, Shalabak-Theth 43 Halticus apterus L. Livadhet Theth 44 Orthocephalus ferrarii Reut. Theth, Bogë 45 saltator Mul&rev. Fushë Zezë-Razëm 46 Globiceps fulvicollis Reuter Shalabak-Tal 47 Plagiognathus arbustorum Fabr. Theth, Bogë 48 fulvipennis Kirch. Theth, Razëm 49 Lygaeidae Nysius senecionis Schi. Livadhet-Theth 50 Cymus claviculus Falle. Tropojë 51 melanocephalus Fi. Tropojë 52 Macroplax preyssleri Fieb. Shalabak-Tal, Theth 53 Trapezonotus ultrichi Fieb. Shkëlzen

54 Xanthochilus quadratus Fabr. Shkëlzen - Tropojë 55 Coreidae Camptopus lateralis Germ Theth 56 Corizus hyoscyami L. Valbonë, Tropojë,Theth 57 Rhopalus Parumpunctatus Sch Shalabak-Tal, Theth 58 subrufus Gmell. Vermosh 59 Stictopoleurus abutilon pictus Fieb. Theth 60 abutilon abutilon Ro Vermosh 61 Pentatomidae Graphosoma lineatum L. Theth 62 Aelia rostrata Bohem. Valbonë-Tropojë 63 Eusarcoris fabricii Kirk. Tropojë 64 inconspicuus Herr. Tropojë 65 Stagonomus amoenus Brulle Theth 66 Carpocoris purpureipennisD.G. Shalabak-Theth 67 Dolycoris baccarum L. Tropojë 68 Piezodorus lituratus Fabr. Tropojë 69 Neuropter

a Ascalaphidae Libelloides longicornis L. Livadhi i Arushës

70 Canthophorus impressus Horv. Valbonë-Tropoijë 71 Lepidopter

a Cossidae Zeuzera pyrina L. Livadhi i Arushës, Vukël-

Nikël 72 Cossus cossus L. Brojë, Fushë

Zezë,Valbonë 73 Zygaenidae Adscita globularia Hbn Livadhi Arushës,Valbonë 74 statices L. Vukël-Nikël, Lumi i Gashit 75 Zygaena vicia Den&Schif. Brojë, Budaç, Razëm,

Valbonë 76 loti L Theth, Q.Kolçit 77 lonicera Sch. Lumi Gashit, Nikaj-Mertur 78 carniolica Scop Livadhi Arushës, Lumi

Gashit 79 Hesperiidae Hesperia comma L. Vukël-Nikël, Valbonë,

Shllak 80 Ochlodes venaum Br.-Cr. Shllak, Lumi Gashit,

Valbonë 81 Erynnis tages L.. Livadhi Arushës, Nikaj-

Mertur 82 Papilionidae Parnassius apollo L. Seferçe, Fushë-Zezë,

Valbonë 83 mnemosyne L. Seferçe, Fushë Zezë,

Valbonë 84 Papilio machaon L. Brojë, Lumi Gashit,

Valbonë 85 Iphiclides podalirius Scop Liv. Arushës, Fusha

Zezë, 86 Pieridae Leptidea sinapis L. Liv.Arushës, Brojë,

Valbonë 87 Gonepteryx rhamni L. Liv.Arushës,Vuk.-Nik., 88 Aporia crataegi L. L.A., Fasha Zezë, Lum.

Gashit 89 Pieris ergane Geyer. Lum.Gashit, Nikaj-Mertur, 90 krueperi Strg. Lum.Gashit, Nikaj-Mertur,

Val 91 Anthocaris cardamines L. Liv.Arushës, F.Zezë,

Valbonë

92 Nymphalidae Limenitis reducta Strg. L.Arush., Vuk.-Nik., Lum.Gash

93 Nymphalis polychloros L. L.Arush., Brojë, Nikaj-Mertur

94 antiopa L. L.Arush.,F.Zezë, Lumi Gashit,

95 Inachis io L. L.A., F.Zezë, Nikaj Mertur,

96 Aglais urticae L. Broj, Vukël-Nikë, Nikaj-Mertur

97 Polygonia egea Cr. L.A, Vukël, Lumi Gashit,Valbo

98 C-album L. Vukël-Nikë, Nikaj-Mërtur 99 Argynnis paphia L. Kërçi djegur, L.Gashit,

Valbon 100

Mesoacidalia aglaja L. L.Ar.,F.Zezë, L.Gashit, Theth

101

Fabriciana. adippe Den.&Schif Brojë, Valbonë, Nikaj-Mertur

102

niobe L. L.Gashit, Valbonë, Shllak,Razë

103

Brenthis hecate Den.&Schif. Valbonë

104

Issoria lathonia L. Shllak, L.Arushës, Fusha Zezë

105

Melitaea phoebe Rott. L.Gashit, Vuk.-Nikë, Brojë, Ve

106

cinxia L. Gasturan

107

Mellicta athalia Rott. Qafa e Kolçit

108

Melanargia galathea L. Brojë, Qafa Bordolecit, Tamarë

109

larissa Geyer. Qafa Bordolecit, Kërçi Djegur..

110

Hipparchia fagi Scop Shllak, L.Gashit, Nikaj-Mertur

111

semele Hfn. Nikaj-Mertur, Valbonë Razëm

112

Chazara briseis L. Razëm, Broj, Fusha Zezë

113

Arethusana arethusa D..&Sch. L. Arushës, Vukl-Nikë,Theth

114

Erebia ligea L. L.Arushës, Q. Bordolecit

115

aethiops Esper. Lekbibaj, Theth

116

medusa Den&Schif L.Arushës, Seferçe, Vermosh

117

ottomana H.- Sch. L.Gashit, Valbonë, Nikaj-Mertu

118

Maniola jurtina Esp. Q. Bordolecit, Tamarë, Razëm

120

Hyponephele lycaon Kuhn. L.Arushës, Fusha Zezë, Brojë

121

Coenonympha pamphilus L. Vermosh, Tamarë, Q. Bordolec

122

tullia Mull. Shllak, Budaë-Vermosh, Brojë

123

arcania L. Gryka Selcës, Tamarë,L.Arushë

124

Pararge aegeria L. L. Arushës, Q. Bordolecit,Razë

125

Lasiommata. megera L V.-Nikë, Q. Bordolecit, Tamar

126

maera Hbn. L. Gashit, Valbonë, Nikaj-Mert

127

Lycaenidae Thecla betulae L. Liv.Arushës,Razëm, Brojë

128

Quercus quercus L. Shllak, Budaç-Vermosh,Razëm

129

Nordmannia ilicis Esp. L. Gashit, Valbonë, Nikaj-Mert

130

Strymonidia Ë -album Kh. L.Gashit, Valbonë, Nikaj-Mertu

131

Palaeochrysophanus

Hippothoe L. Qafa e Kolçi

132

Scolitantides orion Pall. L. Gashit, Valbonë, Q.Bordolec

133

Maculinea alcon Den.&Sch. Razëm, Theth, Bogë

134 arion L. Valbonë, Theth 135 Polyommatus eroides Friv. Qafa e Kolçit 136 Lycaeidas idas L. L.Arushës,F.Zezë, Tamarë 137 Lasiocampidae Malacosoma neustria L. Brojë,Shllak, L. Gashit 138 Macrothylacia rubi L. Q.Bordolecit, Vermosh,

Brojë 139 Geometridae Cidaria nebulata Treit. Razëm, L.Arushës, Vukël-

Nikë 140 Ematurga otomaria L. Livadhi Arushës 141 Notodontidae Phalera bucephala L. Budaç-Vermosh,F.Zezë 142 Furcula furcula Cl. Brojë, Q.Bordolecit, Razëm 143 Lymantridae Leucoma salicis L. Vermosh, Livadhi Arushës 144 Arctornis L-nigrum Muell Fusha Zezë, Kërçi Djegur, 145 Arctiidae Lithosia quadra L. Vukël-Nikë, L.Arushës,

Shllak 146 Arctia villica L. Qafa Bordolecit, Budaç-

Vermo 147 Tyria jacobea L Theth 148 caja L. Qafa e Bordolecit -Vermosh 149 Euplagia quadripunctaria Pod Gasturan 150 Callimorpha dominula L. Gasturan 151 Noctuidae Scotia segetum Schiff. Qafa Bordolecit, Razëm

152 Coleoptera Carabidae Calosoma sycophanta L. Vermosh

153 Carabus coriaceus L. Bogë

154 scabrosus Fabr. Reç, Rrapsh

155 hungaricus F. Bogë

156 intricatus L. Razëm

157 Leistus feruginaus L. Reç, Rrapsh, Bogë

158 Omophron. limbatum F Rrapsh

159 Scarites terricola Bon Vermosh

160 Clivina fossor L Vermosh

161 Bembidion varium Olivier Bogë

162 tenellum Erich Bogë, Vermosh

163 Trechus quadristriatus Schra Rrapsh, Vermosh, Selcë

164 Chlaenius . spoliatus Rossi Bogë

165 Abax carinatus Druft. Razëm

166 Oodes helopioides F. Vermosh, Qafa Bordolecit

167 Zabrus incrassatus Ger Razëm

168 Harpalus affinis Schik Bogë

169 latus Quensel Budaç-Vermosh

170 Diachromus germanicus L Bogë, Theth

171 Paradromius linearis Oliv Vermosh, L.Arushës

172 Brachynus b crepitans L Bogë, Theth

173 Histeridae uncinatus Illiger Vermosh, Q.Bordolecit

174 unicolor L Razëm, Veleçik

175 Atholus bimacolatus L. Budaç-Vermosh, Theth

176 Silphidae Silpha tristis Ill.L Razëm, Q. Bordolecit

177 Necrophorus mortuorum F Vermosh

178 Staphylinidae Paederus. litoralis Grav Vermosh

179 Staphylinus fossor Scop Vermosh, Veleçik

180 Stenus longipes Heer Theth, Vermosh

181 maculiger Ëeise Bogë

182 morio Gravenhorst Vermosh

183 Lucanidae Lucanus cervus L Q.Bordolecit, Theth

184 Dorcus parallelopipedus L Razëm-Veleçik

185 Scarabaeidae Geotrupes vernalis L Budaç

186 silvaticus Ponz Rrapsh, Bogë, Vermosh

187 spiniger Marsh Q. Bordolecit, Gryka Selcës

188 mutator Marsh. Bogë, Theth, Vermosh

189 Scarabaeus affinis Brulle Q. Bordolecit, Vermosh

190 sacer L Kërçi Djegur, Theth, Veleçik

191 Onthophagus nuchicornis L Rrapsh, Vermosh

192 verticornis Laich Razëm

193 Gymnopleurus geoffroyi Fuesol Theth, Razëm

194 mapsus Pall Bogë

195 Sisyphus schaefferi L Tamarë, Vermosh

196 Copris hispanus L Theth, Selcë

197 lunaris L Kërçi Djegur, Razëm

198 Oniticellus fulvus Steph Vermosh

199 Amphicoma vulpes Pall Q. Bordolecit, Tamarë

200 Oryctes nasiconis L Vermosh

201 Phyllognathus excarvatus Forst. Bogë

202 Rhombonyx aurata Forst. Vermosh

203 Pentodon idiota (Hbst ) Q. Bordolecit

204 Rhombonyx aurata Fabricius. Q. Bordolecit

205 Anomala vitis Fabricius Theth, Vermosh

206 Phyllopertha horticolla L. Razëm, Q.Bordolecit

207 Anisoplia erichsoni Reitter Vermosh, Shllak

208 tempestiva Erichson Shllak. Razëm

209 agricola Poda Tamarë, Budaç-Vermosh

210 austriaca Hbst Theth, Bogë

211 Melolontha Melolontha L. Q. Bordolecit, Theth

212 Rhizotrogus aesticus Olivier Rrapsh, Bogë

213 Amphimallon solstitalis Linne Tamarë, Budaç

214 Homaloplia marginata Fuessly Bogë

215 Hoplia graminicola F Theth, Vermosh

216 Trichius fasciatus (L Bogë, Theth

217 Epicometis hirta Poda Q.Bordolecit, Valbonë

218 Oxytherea funesta Poda Budaç-Vermosh

219 Cetonia aurata aurata L. Razëm, Theth

220 Potosia metallica Hbst Q. Bordolecit, Razëm

221 Cantharididae Lampyris noctiluca L Vermosh, Valbonë

222 Cantharis fusca L Bogë, Rrapsh

223 livida Linne Theth, Selcë, Skrapatushë

224 Rhagonycha fulva Scopoli Budaç-Vermosh, Bogë

225 Melyridae Malachius spinipensis Germar Tamarë, Q.Bordolecit

226 Cleridae Trichodes apiarius L. Razëm, Selcë

227 Elateridae Agriotes lineatus Linne Vermosh, Razëm

228 Buprestidae Capnodis tenebrionis Linne Veleçik, Kërçi Djegur,

229 cariosa (Pallas) Skrapatushë, Valbonë

230 Coccinellidae Coccinella. septempunctata L. Veleçik, Seferçe…

231 Epilachna Argus Fabr. Vermosh, Bogë, valbonë

232 Thea vigintiduopunctata L Budaç, Selcë

233 . Adalia bipunctata L. Bogë, Vermosh

234 Meloidae Meloë proscarabaeus L Vermosh

235 rugosus Marsh Q.Bordolecit, Razëm-Veleçik

236 Mylabris. quadripunctata L. Budaç-Vermosh, Razëm

237 crocata Pall Bogë, Razëm-Veleçik

238 . Epicauta erythrocephaia Pall. Valbonë, Theth, Razëm

239 Tenebrionidae Gnaptor spinimanus Pallas Vermosh, Valbonë, Selcë

240 Cerambycidae Ergates faber L. Lugina Valbonës

241 Rhagium . inquisitor L Lugina Valbonës

242 sycophanta Schr. Lugina Valbonës

243 Leptura sanguinolata L. Lugina Valbonës

244 dubia Scop Theth

245 Strangalia quadrifasciata L. Bogë

246 aurulenta Fab. Bogë, Theth

247 Cerambyx cerdo L. Razëm

248 Aromia moschata L. Lugina Valbonës

249 Rosalia alpina L. Lugina Valbonës

250 Purpuricenus kaehleri L Lugina Valbonës

251 Oberea linearis L. Dragobi

252 Chrysomelidae Lema melanopus L Vermosh

253 Labidostomis Humeralis Shneid Razëm, Theth

254 Lachnain sexpunctata Seg Q.Bordolecit, Budaç

255 Chrysomela violacea Mull Bogë, Valbonë

256 Hymenoptera

Apidae Bombus pomorum Panz Livadhe alpine

257 hortorum L. Vermosh, Shllak

258 ruderatus fabr. Shkëlzen

259 argillaceus Scoip. Shllak

260 ruderarius Muller Vermosh, Shkëlzen

261 soroensis proteus Ge Qafa Kolçit, M. Hekurave

262 mastrucatus Gerst Vermosh

Bibliography

1. Misja K., 2005. Albanian butterflies (Monography). “Edition of the Science Academy”, Tirana.

2. Striniqi A. 2004. Coleopterofauna of Malësisa e Madhe (Science Leader Prof. K. Misja).

263 Formicidae Myrmica . ruginodis Nyl. Shllak

264 Aphanogaster subterranea Latr. Vermosh

265 ovaticops Em. Vermosh

266 Tetramorium debilis Em. Vermosh

267 Pheidole pallidula Nyl. Lekbibaj

268 Formica rufibarbis F. Vermosh

269 fusca L. Shllak, Vermosh

270 cinerea Mayr Vermosh

271 gagastes Latr. Shllak

272 lemoni Bond. Shllak

273 sanguinea Latr. Vermosh

274 Lasius niger F. Vermosh

275 truncatus Spin Sllak

VI. The Vertebrates of the Albanian Alps

6.1. Fishes of the Albanian Alps

Atlantic trout, according to Anonymous (2003), are called the trout of Salmo genus LINAEUS 1758. (Family salmonidae, subfamily salmoninae).

Almost the synonyms with the genus Salmo are genera Salmothymus BERG, 1908 and Acanthlongua HADZISCE, 1960.

There are very few data on trout species of Albania published by POLJAKOV et al., 1958 and RAKAJ (1995).

Practically, it is very difficult to understand the taxonomy of family Salmonidae and its zoo-geography as well. DHORA and SMAJLAJ (2007) have studied the trout in the rivers of the Albanian Alps, precisely in Vermoshi, Thethi, Kiri and Valbona.

Salmo trutta fario LINAEUS, 1758. Species status (VU)

It is caught in Vermoshi River, a branch of Danube River (Figure 6.1).

Figure 6.1. Salmo trutta fario (Vermoshi river)

One of the exemplars of trout Salmo truta fario has been analyzed. Some features of this trout have been measured and here they are:

Total length: 23 cm, weigh: 111 gr., the number of scales above the lateral line: 33, the number of scales below the lateral line: 34, head height on occipital: 32 mm, head length: 53 mm, eye diameter 10 mm, the height of anal fin: 4 mm, the length of abdominal fin: 23 mm, the tongue with 7 teeth, vomer with 11 teeth, anal fin with 11 lines, abdominal fin with 11 lines. With slim and short pyloric cecume. The body at the upper side and the both sides above the lateral line are dark and spotty; underneath it is silver and white. A few red and orange marks with white edgings. A few black dots over the body, but more like bigger spots. This has been evaluated like a species of its own, and this has been widely supported by the authors since 50 - 60 years ago. This species is distributed in Europe and in western Asia.

Salmo fario LINNAEUS, 1758, - mountain trout, - is evaluated by some authors like form (Salmo trutta morpha fario) or like subspecies (Salmo trutta fario). It was found in

Vermoshi River. Rakaj in 1995 treated it like subspecies easily found in Albania, in mountain rivers fluvial flux. Many authors consider it as a synonym to Salmo trutta.

Even Salmo lacustris LEINNAEUS, 1758, - lake trout, - is synonym to Salmo trutta. ANONYMOUS (2006) and Rakaj (1995) considered this like subspecies to Salmo trutta, found in Shkodra lake.

Salmo fariodes KARAMAN, 1938. Species status (VU)

This trout has been cached in Thethi, Valbona, Cemi and Kiri Rivers. The features of the analyzed exemplars in these four rivers are almost the same, e.g. one of the cached exemplars in Valbona River (a branch of Drini River) had these data:

Length: 25.5 cm, weight: 205 gram, the number of scales above the lateral line: 25, the number of scales below the lateral line: 26, head height in occipital: 40 mm, head length: 56 mm, eye diameter: 10 mm, the height of the anal fin: 30 mm, the length of the abdominal fin: 28 mm, the tongue with 8 teeth, vomer with 14 teeth, anal fin with 11-12 lines, abdominal fin with 9 lines, without short and slim pyloric cekume. The body at the upper side is grey-green, dark, whereas underneath is chalky. All over the body, except the head, there are red dots with white edgings and more black spots. Trout of the Cemi, Thethi, Kiri and Valbona rivers are the same and they belong to species Salmo farioides.

Salmo farioides KARAMAN, 1938 is known as Drini trout, or mountain trout. Some authors consider this trout as subspecies of Salmo trutta LINNAEUS, 1758, ANONYMUOS (1995). KOTTELAT (1997) considers it like a species, though he is doubtful.

ANONYMOUS (2006) and other authors consider it like a separate species. It is included as a special species in the list of Shkodra lake fishes (Dhora 2005) and (Dhora and Smajlaj 2007), but in the list of the Albanian trout it is considered like a species of its own. It has been found in rivers flowing to Adriatic sea, in Krk river (Croatia), in Radica – branch of Black Drini (Macedonia), in Bistrica near to Peja and in Bistrica near to Prizreni – branch of White Drini river (Kosovo), in the streams that flow to Ohrid lake; in Valbona river, Thethi river, Kiri river, all of which are branches of Drini river, in Cemi river, Crnojevica river, Klosi river – a branch of Mati river etc.

During the last 10-15 years both of the above mentioned kinds of trout have been damaged a lot because of the illegal fishing. The local residents have used continually explosive for fishing, which is very harmful because it kills not only adult exemplars, but also the little ones and even the eggs (during the reproduction season). Besides the explosive, electricity is also used to catch the trout, which is as harmful as the explosive; (in some cases even people have been damaged by this illegal fishing). Another way of fishing is catching the trout with baskets especially in those places where the trout spawn; this kind of fishing should be prohibited during the reproduction period, (December - January).

Figure 6.2 Salmo farioides (Valbona river)

Both trout of the Alps are considered like endangered species and, due to illegal ways of fishing, they are being reduced more and more, therefore it is necessary the law for trout fishing to be enforced, and the local populations to become aware for the very harmful consequences of the illegal fishing; this kind of fishing should be prohibited immediately, and this kind of trout should be protected. Obviously, catching trout is a passion and enjoyment to the local residents, but this should be done only with licensed means, with hooks and spinners, and only in the allowed season.

6.2. Amphibians of the Albanian Alps

The hydrology of the Albanian Alps has an original character. They are distinguished for the quite developed hydrographic network due to very intensive precipitations rate, carbonatite composition, the highland relief, a rich vegetation cover etc.

The Albanian Alps are in themselves a complex of different habitats very suitable for the development of many kinds of livings.

This high biological diversity is related to some favorable factors including the ecological and geographical particularities. In the Alps at least 8 species of amphibians are found. The hydrology, as a specific feature, has made it possible that in this zone to live and develop many species of amphibians, and some of them are of great interest because they are in danger or very rare in number.

Suborder salamandroids

Family Salamandridae. The representatives of this family are real salamanders. This family is distributed mainly in Euro-Asia and in Mediterranean basin western sides.

Salamandra salamandra (Salamnder). It is a typical representative of this family, known as “The beauty of the earth” and lives in the terrestrial ecosystems. It often copulates on the earth or in the water. Afterwards, the female lays about 70 developed larvae into the water. This species has a large distribution in Albania. Salamanders are found even in the Albanian Alps. More often it is met during springtime and fall, in soft rainy weather. We have caught it in Vermosh, Brojë, Theth, Valbonë etc.

Salamandra atra (Black salamander). Species status LR(nt). It leads terrestrial life and is ovoviviparous. It is distributed all over highland zones like in the European Alps, but even in the Albanian Alps. It is black; the length of its body is 13 – 16 cm. It is met in

high areas, but comes down until the altitudes of 600 m. This species is found in alpine lakes, humid environments, under stones, at the roots of the trees and bushes, where it finds shelter. It lives in groups of 3–5 individuals. It is more active during the night, it moves during the day only when it is raining. It is fed with insects, larvae and worms. Individuals have been caught in Jezerca lakes and in Rikaveci Lake. It is a rare species; therefore it must be under strict protection.

Triturus alpestris (Alps triton). Species status: LR(nt). The Alps triton has a grey dark color; the abdominal part is yellowish red, the length of its body reaches up to 8–12 cm. It can be met in streams, small lakes and ponds. It was found in Dobërdoli Lake, in T’thore pass, in Jezerca lakes, in Rikaveci Lake, etc. The Alps triton gets away from water only in summertime, in August. It is fed with water insects and their larvae. It is a rare species and should be strictly protected.

Suborder Opistocelics

The representatives of this suborder have opistocelic vertebras. Here can be mentioned Diskoglosidae Family which is the oldest. Bombina genus, the representative of this family, is distributed in our country (in the Alps) with the species Bombina variegata. It is a rare species that deserves to be protected.

Suborder Procels

Family Bufonidae. They are known as “cow-sucker”, lead terrestrial life and visit water areas only during the copulation time. At the back side of head they have two glandule zones called proteide glandules. The most distributed species is “cow –sucker” (Bufo bufo), which is found in Europe, continental Asia, in northwest of Africa and in Japan. It is very common in our country especially in the Albanian Alps. Besides this species, in our country there is another one, the toad (Bufo viridis).

Family Hilide. Species status: not well known. (DD). It lives in trees. The last falanges of its fingers have a sticky disc. In Europe, this family is represented by the only one species, Hyla arborea. The length of its body is about 5 cm. It is a common species in the Albanian Alps

Suborder Diplasiocels

Family Ranide. It is the most widely spread family. In Europe this family is represented only by genus Rana (frogs). Frogs, based on their color, are divided in brown frog and green frog. As a representative of this family is the red frog (Rana temporaria), it is found in the forests of high areas, like the forests of the Albanian Alps. The length of the body is 7-10 cm. Thus it is a mountainous species, mainly watery one, and of places with a high humidity. One of its characteristic features is the big changeability of the colors, especially of its body spots. It is met in stagnant or flowing waters with or without vegetation. It is harbored in humid habitats and in forests. It is fed with insects and worms. Red frog is a rare species and should be taken under protection. It is found in Vermoshi, Theth, Fushzezë, Shkëlzen (Tropojë) etc.

6.3. Reptiles of the Albanian Alps

The natural habitats of the Albanian Alps for centuries have created convenient conditions for much kind of species, thus even for reptiles. In the Albanian Alps about 23 species of reptiles are found, though their number might be higher. The most common reptiles met in the Alps according to the families are:

Testudinidae family. This family includes terrestrial species and has a cosmopolite distribution. The most typical of this family is the genus Testudo represented by Testudo hermanni that is present in Mediterranean basin. Its status is LR(nt).

The lizards that are found in the Albanian Alps, according to the families, are:

Family Anguidae. It is distributed in America, North Africa, Europe, and southern and eastern Asia. The only genus that has well developed extremities is genus Gerrhonotus, which is found in Northern and Central America. All the other species are characterized by the tendency of reducing, even of total disappearance of the extremities, giving thus to the animal the shape of an eel (Anguilla), from where the family has gotten its name. In Europe and in our country two kinds of appode (without feet) live, one of them is Anguis fragilis that is very common in our country, and has a length of about 40 cm., and the other is the grass-snake (Ophizaurus apodus). Its status is LR(nt).

Family Lacertide. It includes about 200 species distributed in Europe etc. They are active during the day and are fed with insects. Their extremities are developed and very agile. Their tail is long and ends with a tip. Many species have the ability to cut off their tail and to regenerate it again. In Europe, especially in the Albanian Alps, there is genus Lacerta, which is rich in many species. As common species we can mention: walls lizard (Lacerta muralis), green lizard (Lacerta viridis), viviparous lizard (Lacerta vivipara) with the status LR(nt), the house lizard (Hemidactylis turcicus), the lizard with three lines (Lacerta trilineata), lazy lizard (Lacerta agilis) with status LR(nt), rocks lizard (Algyroides nigropunctatus), grass lizard (Podarcis melisellensis). Except viviparous lizard (Lacerta vivipara) and lazy lizard (Lacerta agilis), the other species are common in the Albanian Alps.

The snakes, according to the families that are found in the Albanian Alps, are:

Family Kolubride. It is one of the richest as far as the number of species is concerned. It includes about half of the actual snakes that are found in all the continents. This family includes some subfamilies, which can be divided based upon the poisonous teeth.

a) Subfamily aglifs. They are called this way because they do not have poisonous teeth. Among the most common species that are found in the Albanian Alps are: the house grass snake (Elafe longissima), the motley grass snake (Elaphe situla) with a status (CR), the grass snake with four lines (Elaphe quatorlineata) with a status (CR), the big water snake (Natrix natrix), the slim snake (Coronela austriaa) that is a threatened species (E), the long yellow abdominal arrow (Coluber jugularis), the short arrow (Coluber gemonensis) with a status (CR), the slim arrow (Coluber najadum) with a status LR (cd).

b) Subfamily opistoglifs. The representatives of this subfamily have poisonous teeth that are placed at the back side of the upper maxillary. The most typical representative in Europe and in our country is grass snake (Malpolon monspenssulanus). It is a common species even in the Albanian Alps.

Viperide family. It includes poisonous species that present a threat even to the humans. They are distributed in Asia, Africa, and Europe. In general, they are ovoviviparous. In Europe, only genus Vipera with some species is found. In the Alps Vipera ammodytes (horn adder) is widely present. In the altitudes over 1200 m, even in localized zones, there are found mountain viper Mediterranean endemic species Vipera berus with a status LR (nt) and Vipera ursinii with a status LR(nt). The vipers are distinguished from columbrides due to their short tail; its head is like a triangle, pressed

in dorsa-ventral direction. Other species of the above mentioned reptiles are very common.

6.4. Birds of the Albanian Alps, threaten species, actual situation and their protection

The forest as an ecological complex system is composed of many elements that have a mutual inter-dependence among them. The complexity of this ecosystem is increased with the advance of its age, and it is expressed with the increase of flora, fauna and biotic factors diversity.

Birds as one of the main elements of forest biocenosis, with their qualitative and quantitative indicators, offer information about the ecosystem situation and at the same time they contribute to its preservation. The data about the ornitofauna of the zones covered with beech forests (Fagus selvatica) in the Albanian Alps have a qualitative character and to gather them in terrain, the bird-watching method was used. Some data have also been gathered from rangers, foresters and forest technicians, also literature sources are used.

The species that live in the Albanian Alps have been classified based on the “time” criterion, that is to say, how long a species stays in our coutry or in what period of time that species can be found in our country. Based on this criterion, birds are classified into: permanent (Pr), summery (St), wintering (Wt), and migratory (Ps). It is also assigned the species status, according to Bern Convention, Annex II, and European status. For some of the species even the national status is assigned. In the survey, the kinds of the forests woods essences and the forest areas of the forest economy are also taken into consideration. From the data collected regarding the forest birds or linked with the forest, it results that in all the forest areas of the Albanian Alps there are ascertain 40 species of birds, which are listed below in the Table 6.1.

Nr Latin name English

name Seasonal Status

Status of Bern C.

European Status

Nat. Stat.

R. Accipitriformes 1. Hieraetus pennatus Booted eagle St II R EN 2. Buteo buteo Common buzzard Pr II S - 3. Accipiter nisus Sparrowhawk Pr II - VU R. Columbiformes Fam. Columbidae 4. Columba palumbus Woodpigeon Pr ? S - Rendi Cuculiformes Fam. Cuculidae 5. Cuculus canorus Cuckoo St 3 S - Rendi Strigiformes Fam. Tytonidae 6. Strix aluca Eurasian towny owl Pe II S - Rendi Piciformes Fam. Picidae 7. Picus viridis Green woodpecker Pe II D DD 8. Picoides major Great spotted Pe II - DD

woodpecker 9. Picoides medius Middle spotted

woodpecker Pe II S DD

10 Picoides minor Lasser spotted woodpecker

Pe II - DD

11 Dryocopus martius Black woodpecker Pe II S DD 12. Dryocopus leucotos No common name Pe II - DD Rendi Passeriformes Fam. Motacillidae 13. Anthus trivalis Treepipit St II - - Fam. Laniidae 14. Lanius cullurio Reedbacked shrike St II D - Fam. Corvidae 15. Corvus monedula Jackdaw Pe 3 S - 16 Corvus corax Raven Pe 3 S - Fam. Troglodytidae 17 Troglodytes

troglodytes Trogladyte minjor Pe II S -

Fam. Prunellidae 18. Prunella modularis Dunnock Wt II S - Fam. Sylvidae 19. Hippolais icterina Icterine warbler Ps II - - 20. Sylvia atricapilla Blackcap Pe II S - 21. Phylloscopus

collybita Chiff chaff Pe II S -

22. Phylloscop. sibilatrix Wood Warbler Ps II S - 23. Regulus ignicapillus Firecrest Pe II S - Fam Muscicapidae 24. Ficedula albicollis Collared flycatcher St 3 S - 25. Ficedula hypoleuca Pied flycatcher Ps II - - 26. Muscicapa striata Spotted flycatcher St II D - Fam. Turdidae 27. Phoenicurus ochruro No common name St II S - 28. Turdus merula Black bird Pe 3 S - 29. Turdus philomelos Song thrush Wt 3 S - Fam. Paridae 30. Parus palustris Marsh tit Pe II S DD 31. Parus lugubris Sombre tit Pe II S DD 32. Parus caeruleus Blue tit Pe II S - 33. Parus major Great tit Pe II S - Fam. Aegithalidae 34. Aegithalos caudatus Long-tailed tit Pe II S - Fam. Sittidae 35. Sitta europaea Nuthatch Pe II - - Fam. Certhiidae 36. Certhia brachydactyl Short-toed

treecreeper Pe II S -

Fam. Fringillidae 37. Fringilla coelebs Chaffinch Pe II S -

38. Coccothraustes cooc Hawfinch Pe II Vu VU

Fam. Emberizidae 39. Emberiza cia Rock bunting Pe II Vu - Rendi Galiformes Fam. Tetraonidae 40 Tetrao urogallus Copercaillie Pe II Vu -

Table 6.1. List of Bird species

In order to determine the character of the forest ornitofauna, the identified species have been analyzed based upon their seasonal status, in other words, based on the “time” criterion. As we mentioned above, this status takes into account how long one species stays in our country, or in what period of the year it is found in our country. From this survey results that out of 40 ascertained species, 28 species or 70% of them are permanent (Pr), i.e. they stay in our country all the year round. It is noticed that 7 species or 17.5% are summery birds (St), two species or 5% are winterer birds (Wt) and 3 species or 7.5% are migratory birds (Ps). These figures show that the Albanian Alps forest economy has mainly permanent species. Histogram Number 1.

We think that this number in the future will grow along with the extension of bird-watching and surveys in this region. The analysis of the above mentioned species according to Bern Convention shows that 31 species or about 77.5% of them are included in Annex II of this Convention. This annex provides a strict protection to these species. Regarding the species evaluated according to European status, we have assigned the “sensibility” in one area. European status classifies the birds’ species according to the following categories: endangered (E), rare (R), decreased (D) vulnerable (V), and in a stable situation (S). In this way the sensibility level of an area can be assigned, taking into account the categories “E”, “R”, “D”, and “V”. The ratio in percentage (%) between these species towards the total number of all the ascertained species shows “the sensibility” of the area in ornithological aspect. This analysis makes clear that 6 species in the Albanian Alps forests economy do not have the stable status “S”, so the value of the sensibility of this region results to be about 18%.

Besides the forest as a very complex ecological system, in the Alps in open habitats and around the rocks there live other birds of clearings and rocks like golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), common crone (Grus rus), blue rock pigeon (Columbia livia), Eurasian eagle owl (Bubo bubo), carrion crow (Corvus corone), brambling (Fringilla montifringilla), European starling (Sturnus vulgaris), European jay (Garrulus glandarius), common tree-creeper (Certhia familiaris), griffon vulture (Gyps fulves), rock partridge (Alektoris graeca), Eurasian scops owl (Otus scops) etc., which, without doubt, increase a lot the ornitofauna diversity of this regions.

From the survey it results that in the Albanian Alps forest economies there are found 40 bird species. The most part of these birds belongs to the “permanent” category. This fact underlines the importance that has the protection of the “forest” ecosystem for the ornitofauna in this region. In general, the whole number of bird species is 52.

The necessity to have a more fully and quick knowledge about ornitofauna situation of the Albanian Alps calls for a better cooperation with the forest engineers, technicians and rangers.

The protection and preservation of the forest becomes even more important because 77% of those species are included in the Bern Convention, Annex II, which provides a strict protection to these species. Likewise, according to the European status, the Albanian Alps forests have a “sensibility” of about 15%.

The protection of the forests economy should be a priority of the Government. In this point of view, a very important role should be played by the state institutions that run and study forests and woods.

The population awareness and especially the enforcement of the law: “On forests and wild fauna” are actual priorities if we take into account the heavy damages that are done in the forests. By protecting forests, we protect their irreplaceable climatic, economical, esthetical and medicinal values.

6.5. Bio-ecological and systematical data on the Albanian Alps mammals

In the following histograms there are given detailed systematical and bio-ecological data, as well as date about geographical distribution, actual situation and the status of all the mammals that are found until now in the Alps into orders, families, genera and species. The targets of this study are 35 species of mammals: 5 insectivores (Insectivora), 6 rodents (Rodentia), 9 bats (Chiroptera), 11 carnivores (Carnivora), 3 even-toed ungulates (Artiodactyla), and 1 rabbit (Lagomorpha). Their belonging to orders and species, as well as their actual status, according to IUCN (1994), are given in the Table number 6. 2. Data about the species amount according to the orders and an evaluation in percentage of the species amount are given in histograms number 6.1 and number 6.2.

Nr. Latin name English name Specie’s status Order Insectivora Insectivores

Fam. Erinacidae Hedgehogs 1 Erinaceus cocnolor Eastern hedgehog VU(D2) Fam. Talpidae Moles

2 Talpa caeca Blind mole DD Fam. Soricidae Shrews 3 Suncus etruscus Pygmi white-toothed shrew DD 4 Crocidura leucodon Bicoloured white-toothed shrew DD 5 Crocidura suaveolens Lesser white-toothed shrew DD Order Rodentia Rodents Fam. Sciuridae Squirrels 6 Sciurus vulgaris Red squirrel Common Fam. Gliridae Dormice 7 Glis glis Fat dormouse DD Fam. Muridae Lemmings and Voles 8 Apodemus sylvaticus Wood mouse Common 9 Apodemus flavicollis Yellow-necked mouse Common 10 Apodemus mystacinus Rock mouse Common 11 Mus musculus House mouse Common Order Chiroptera Bats Fam. Rhinolophidae Horseshoe bats 12 Rhinolophus Greater horseshoe bat Common

ferrumequinum 13 Rhinolophus euryale Mediterranean horseshoe bat VU(C2b) 14 Rhinolophus blassi Blasius’s horseshoe bat VU(B2d) Fam. Vespertilionidae Vespertilionid bats 15 Miniopterus schreibersi Schreiber’s bat Common 16 Myotis myotis Greater mouse-eared bat Common 17 Myotis blythi Lasser mouse-eared bat Common 18 Myotis capaccinii Long-fingered bat Common 19 Pipstrellus savii Savi’s pipistrelle Common Fam. Molossidae Free-tailed bats 20 Tadarida teniotis Free tailed bat DD Order Carnivora Carnivores Fam. Ursidae Bears 21 Ursus arctos Brown bear VU(D1) Fam. Canidae Dogs and foxes 22 Canis lupus Wolf VU 23 Vulpes vuples Red fox Common Fam. Mustelidae Weasels etc. 24 Mustela nivalis Weasel Common 25 Mustela putorius Western polecat EN(D1) 26 Martes martes Pine marten VU(D1) 27 Martes foina Beech marten Common 28 Lutra lutra Otter VU(D1) 29 Meles meles Badger EN Fam. Felidae Cats 30 Felis lynx Lynx CR(C2a) 31 Felis silvestris Wild cat EN(C2a) Order Lagomorpha Rabbits, Hares Fam. Leporidae Rabbits and hares 32 Lepus capensis Brown hare Common Order Artiodacyla Even-toed ungulates Fam. Suidae Pigs 33 Sus scrofa Wild boar LR(nt) Fam. Bovidae Cattle, Sheep and Goats 34 Rupicapra rupicapra Chamois VU Fam. Cervidae Deer 35 Capreolus capreolus Roe deer VU(A1b) Total 35

Table 6.2. Species list of the Albanian Alps mammals

Histogram 6. 2: Species according to the orders of the Albanian Alps mammals

BATS: Order Chiroptera

Histogram No. 6. 3: Species in % of orders of the Albanian Alps mammals

14%

17%

26%

31%

3%9%

Insect ivora

Rodentia

Chiroptera

Carnivora

Lagomorpha

Artiodactyla

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

Insectivora Rodenti a Chiroptera Carnivora Lagomorpha Artiodactyla

General: The bats (order Chiroptera) in Europe are represented by three families: Rhinolophidae, Vespertilionidae and Molossidae. The three of these families belong to suborder Microchiroptera. Species of the Chiropteres that are found in the Albanian Alps are given in the Table number 6. 3.

Nr. Latin name English name 1 Rhinolophus ferrumequinum Greater horseshoe bat 2 Rhinolophus eurylale Mediterranean horseshoe bat 3 Rhinolophus blasii Blasius’s horseshoe bat 4 Minipterus schreibersi Schreiber’s bat 5 Myotis myotis Greater mouse-eared bat 6 Myotis blythi Lasser mouse-eared bat 7 Myotis capaccini Long-fingered bat 8 Pipstrellus savii Savi’s pipistrelle 9 Tadarida teniotis Free tailed bat

Table 6. 3. The species of order Chiroptera

The most common species is Rhinolophus ferrumequinum, and then it is Miniopterus schreibersi. Regarding the species diversity they offer, Shpella e Pëllumbave (Doves’ cave) presents higher values with 5 species. The values of this cave are really interesting and consist in the fact that the mixed colonies of the five species found there reach up to 9000 individuals; about 5500 of them belong to species Rhinolophus ferrumequinum, and about 1500 belong to species Rhinolophus blasii.

CARNIVORES: order Carnivora

General: The carnivores are of different size and look. Bears, weasels, cats and dogs are all carnivores, but most of them are predators, adapted especially for first capturing and then feeding upon relatively large prey, especially prey that cannot be swallowed at once. They all have continuous rows of teeth, and each row is sharp and divided according the line of demarcation into: three small incisors, large conical canines often crooked backwards, and a variable number of jugal teeth (premolars and molars) with a sharp pointed crown, known as the carnassials. The carnivores’ coat is generally soft and dense, and most species have been extensively hunted and trapped for their fur. Many species have also been seriously reduced through persecution for the sake of farming stock or simply through hunting. Some of them, such as the red fox and the weasel, have withstood to these persecutions and remain abundant, but many carnivores are amongst the rarest and most endangered of the European mammals. Most carnivores are secretive and nocturnal and live at much lower population densities than their prey, even when they are unmolested. As a consequence, it is very difficult to detect and observe them. Indirect sings like footprints and droppings are useful for locating their regular paths and dens.

This order in Europe is represented by 6 families (Corgert G. & Ovenden D., 1980): Ursidae, Canidae, Mustelidae, Viverridae, Procyonidae and Felidae. In our country there are found 4 from the 6 above mentioned families (Ursidae, Canidae, Mustelidae and Felidae). Object of this survey have been 11 species of carnivores, caught or watched during observations in the terrain of the Albanian Alps. This order is represented by the biggest number of the species; from 35 species found in the Alps, 31% of them belong to

order carnivora. 8 from 11 species described in the Table number 4 results to be endangered.

Nr. Latin name English name 1 Ursus arctos Brown bear 2 Canis lupus Wolf 3 Vulpes vuples Red fox 4 Mustela nivalis Weasel 5 Mustela putorius Western polecat 6 Martes martes Pine marten 7 Martes foina Beech marten 8 Lutra lutra Otter 9 Meles meles Badger 10 Felis lynx Lynx 11 Felis silvestris Wild cat

Table 6. 4. The species of order Carnivora

6.6. Some conclusions about mammals of the Albanian Alps

Based on the data, in the Albanian Alps there are identified about 35 species of mammals that belong to six orders (Insectivora, Rodentia, Chiroptera, Carnivora, Lagomorpha, Artiodactyla).

The high diversity of the species that are found in this region, comprising about 42% of the Albanian Mammal fauna, and the likelihood of finding much more other species (about 6 species of Insectivore, 5 species of rodent and 10 species of night bats), highlight the special values of their mammal faunistic, giving to mammal fauna of the Albanian Alps a very special importance in the framework of the country’s mammal fauna.

Carnivora is the order with the highest number of species (11 species), then there are Chiroptera with 9 species, Rodentia with 6 species, Insectivora with 5 species, Artiodactyla with 3 species and Lagomorpha with only one species.

The great number of the species of Carnivora that are found, 11 from 12 species reported until now, shows that the Albanian Alps offer to these mammals quite preferable natural habitats.

Among the mammals found in the Albanian Alps, there are 8 species included in the list of globally threatened species (Rhinolophus euryale, myotis capaccinii, Apodemus mystacinus, Meles meles, Mustela putorius, Felis lynx, Martes martes, Felis silvestris.)

The major part of the species in the Albanian Alps have e wide horizontal and vertical distribution, such as: Erinaceus concolor, Talpa caeca, Crocidura suaveolens, Sciurus vulgaris, Apodemus sylvaticus, Apodemus flavicollis, Rhinolophus ferrumequinum, Vulpes vulpes Martes foina, Mustela nivalis, Sus scrofa and Lepus capensis.

6.7. Recommendations:

Insectivora is the order that is still less known and less studied among the mammals of our country. Only 6 out of 11 species of this order have been reported until now.

Further studies are required in order to find out more data about this order and the status of the species reported up to now.

It is necessary that to some areas, caves, tunnels, holes etc., be given a special status to protect all the threatened species.

Besides mammals, a special attention must be given to other vertebrates, especially to birds because it is quite possible that their number to be higher.

There is a real need to know more about the situation of vertebrates in the Albanian Alps and this need calls for a better collaboration with rangers and speleologists.

In the future, along with the efforts to know more about the species less known until now, the studies of the vertebrates must pursue other aspects like ecology, etiology, migration etc.

Bibliography

BEGO, F., 1997. Kontribut në njohjen e gjitarëve të vegjël (Mammalia, Rendet: Insectivora, Rodentia dhe Chiroptera) të Shqiperisë. Disertacion, 162 faqe.

SMAJLAJ, RR. 1999. Të dhëna sistematike dhe bioekologjike për Gjitarët e Malësisë së Madhe. Disertacion, 122 faqe.

CORBET G. & OVENDEN D., 1980. The Mammals of Britain and Europe, 253 p.

CORBET G., OVENDEN D., 1985. Guida dei Mammiferi d`Europa. Prima edizione.

DHORA, DH & SMAJLAJ, RR. 2007. Hulumtim mbi troftat Salmo LINNAEUS, 1758 të Shqipërisë. B.SH. i Universitetit “L. Gurakuqi”, Seria e Shkencave Natyrore, 167-179.

PEJA, N. & SMAJLAJ, RR. Ornitofauna pyjore e Malësisë së Madhe. B.SH. i Universitetit “L. Gurakuqi”, Seria e Shkencave Natyrore, 167-179.

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KRUTAJ F., GRUDA GJ., KABO M., MECAJ N., QIRIAZI P., SALA S., ZIU F., KRISTO V. & TROJANI V., 1991. Gjeografia Fizike e Shqiperise, 21-67.

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CORBET G., OVENDEN D.,1985. Guida dei Mammiferi d`Europa. Prima edizione. Franco Muzzio & Co. Editor. Padova (Italy), 288 pp.

VII. A SOCIO-ECONOMICAL STUDY OF THE ALPS

7.1. The landscape

The Albanian Alps are located in the northern region of Albania, on the right side of the Drini River, 1500 m above sea level, but certain peaks reach up to 2000 m above sea level. The highest peak is that of Jezerca, 2692 m above sea level. The Alps are a craggy region with high peaks, deep troughs, wonderful valleys, as well as fascinating meadows such as the meadows of Boga, Thethi and Jezerca. The climate of the region is healthy and the landscapes are amazing, with jagged canyons, remarkable waterfalls, and crystal rivers. On the peaks, the tourists can see the snow all the year round.

The entire region has good conditions for the development of summer and winter tourism. The Albanian Alps have a typical alpine flora that is characterized by numerous pastures.

7.1.2. Climate

The Alps are one of the coldest regions of Albania, with the most abundant annual rainfall and with the least humidity. The heating conditions are determined in a great degree by the altitude.

7.1. 3. Temperature

The Albanian Alps are the most northern region of the country. This region, as well as the eastern ranges of the mountainous area, is the territory which is characterized by the lowest average annual temperatures. In this region, the factor that determines the temperature changes is the altitude.

The average temperature of January, the coldest month of the year, at the altitudes of 1100-1300 m above sea level, has values between 0C and -2C, and over 1300 m above sea level, its values are -4C and -6C; in certain places, it reaches up to -7C and -8C. The average temperature during the July varies from 15C to 18C and in certain locations it exceeds 20C. The abundant precipitations and low temperatures of this region contribute to the depth of the snow layer.

The harshness of winters in this region can be judged by the number of the freezing days during a year, which in certain high locations reaches up to 150 - 170 days.

7.1. 4. The precipitations

This region is recognized for the abundant precipitations. In the Alps, the average precipitation per year is 2000 – 2500 mm, and it occurs mainly during the coldest time of the year. In no rare occasions the amount of precipitation exceeds 3000 mm annually, sometimes even 4000 mm. The western slopes are subject to the greatest amount of precipitations.

In certain regions of great altitude, the layer of snow is permanent. The maximum depth of the snow layer depends on the contours of the relief. In the lower locations, the

depth of the snow is between 1.5 – 2.5 m, while in the higher regions, the snow has a greater depth, which, sometimes, can reach up to 3 - 4 m.

7.1. 5. Wind

The northern wind called “murlan” is characteristic in winter. The main direction of the northern wind is north-east or east-northeast. The northern wind blows throughout the whole of Albania, but it is more present in northern and northeastern Albania. The northern wind is cold and dry, because it comes form the inner regions of the continent. In special cases, it can reach up to 30 m/sec.

7.2. The Albanian Alps are the northernmost part of Albania. They include:

THETHI NATIONAL PARK

NATIONAL PARK “VALLEY OF VALBONA”

KELMEND

7.2.1. National Park “VALLEY OF VALBONA”

The Valley of Valbona has the status of a national park. It was proclaimed a protected area in 1996. The National Park “Valley of Valbona” lies among high mountains and its area is about 8000 hectares.

This National Park is situated in the center of the Albanian Alps, in the district of Tropoja, 25 - 30 km in northwest of the city of Bajram Curri. This valley, 820 m above sea level, is considered the miracle of the Albanian Alps.

Population and villages

Margegaj commune has 10 villages.

Table 1

Villages Population Number of

families Male Female Total Margegaj 265 298 553 185 Fushë Lume 58 67 125 34 Koçanaj 342 344 686 182 Shoshan 297 293 590 163 L. Paqes 68 70 138 43 Bradashnicë 52 59 111 33 Dragobi 197 188 385 118 Çerem 110 99 209 68 Valbonë 126 113 239 70 Rragam 53 66 119 27

Table. 7.1. The family structures

Family Structure:

The family nucleus is stable, dependent on the economic status, and its structure has been simplified. In the past, the family was patriarchal, and the family nucleus consisted of the parents and their male children’s families, and all of them shared the same roof. Today the family consists of the parents living at home with their unmarried children. Married girls live in their husband’s home. Married boys choose to live on their own, but, usually, the youngest son shares the house with his parents. As shown in the table above, the average number of family members is 3 – 4.

Migration:

Regardless the beautiful nature, a part of the population has begun migrating toward other cities and countries. After years of emigration, some of them have returned and invested in numerous enterprises, mainly in tourism.

Traditional values and culture:

Cultural attractions of the region include mainly the traditional clothes, churches, characteristic houses, and the way of living.

Traditional clothing consists of “xhubleta” for women, and “xhamadani” and “tirqet” for men. Women use traditional veils; brides use red veils with light colors, whereas the other women use black veils tied to the throat. Men use woolen traditional hat called “kësulë”.

Characteristic houses are built from stones and their wooden roofs, built from wooden stripes, are very sloping to avoid snow. The windows are very small and have protective loopholes. The houses are 2-3 floors high, with stairs located at the external part of the house that take you up to the second floor because the first floor is usually reserved to the animals. The second floor is used as the guest room and for the other members of the family.

The local population is very hospitable. Many of them have already begun to receive tourists from Albania and abroad in their houses.

In Albanian villages, the tradition of crafting and decorating small wooden objects still is widely spread among the villagers. Thus, the shepherds decorate their crooks, distaffs, spindles, etc., while others, more skilled in the art, construct baby cribs, traditional chairs, musical instruments, wooden boxes, etc.

Agriculture and livestock:

Agriculture and livestock are the main employment options of this region. The shepherds and stockbreeders are focused on sustaining their families. A part of the well-known agricultural production such as chestnuts, honey, nuts, etc., is sold in the market.

Forestry:

This valley has high biodiversity values. In the forests of this park, one may find beech, black and white pine, oak, spruce, lime trees, as well as alpine meadows, and forests of chestnuts. The fruits that primarily grow in this region are plums and nuts.

Tourism and recreational activities:

The climate, with cold winters and fresh summers, is favorable for tourists. In the valley of Valbona, one may have unforgettable trips among the wonderful nature, and exercise different sports such as: hunting during the hunting season, climbing, horse riding, etc. Camping is another activity, but information about the right places is needed.

Valbona is one of the most beautiful places in Albania and segments of its valley can be a real challenge for the passionate people of extreme sports.

Tourist attractions: The Canyon of Shoshani is situated near the Shoshani Bridge, at Valbona valley, 400 m above sea level. It is formed from calcareous and karstic processes, and the river’s erosion. It is 1.1 km long, 30 - 40 m deep and 2.5 m wide.

The Cave of Haxhia is situated in Maja e Thatë, near the Valbona village, at Margegaj commune, 1630 m above sea level. It is 2 - 3 m high and 120 m long.

The Cave of Ice is situated near the Valbona village, at Margegaj commune, 2230 m above sea level. Its explored length is about 250 m, its width is 50 m, and its depth is 10-15 m.

The Cave of Dragobia is situated near the Dragobia village, 1200 m above sea level. It has karstic strata, and it is 8 m long, 3 - 4 m wide and 2 - 4 m high. It is also known as “The cave of Bajram Curri”, because the national hero Bajram Curri was hiding there.

The Hanging Glacial Valley of Kukaj is situated near the Rragami village, 1200 m above sea level. It is a hanging glacial-karstic valley created during the tectonic processes. It is 2.7 km long and 100-150 m wide. The Hanging Glacial Valley of Motina is situated among Mali i Hekurave and Grykët e Hapura, near the Dragobia village, 1100 m above sea level. It is a hanging glacial - karstic valley, 2.5 km long and 100-150 m wide.

The Mountain Pass of Valbona, from where the Valbona River and Dragobia can be seen.

Hunting and fishing

The National Park “Valley of Valbona” houses protected mammals such as: the brown bear, wolf, bobcat, wild goat, roebuck, etc., while the wild fowls consist of the rooster, wild chicken, eagle, etc.

In the waters of Valbona dwell an animal on the verge of extinction, the otter (lutra lutra).

Trout can be found in the cold waters as well as in kartstic lakes of Valbona.

Landscape

The voyage in the valley of Valbona is unforgettable. It is the Valbona River, with its clear waters, that has given its name to this valley. The national park of Valbona is abundant in flora including the pine, beech and oak. The fauna of Valbona valley has some species that are rare in the Balkans.

The village of Valbona is an important touristic attraction. The valley through which the Valbona River passes is distinguished for its attractive landscape, composed of

forests, pastures, diversity of plants, characteristic houses, and the hospitable inhabitants, thus creating the proper conditions for tourism development.

7.2.2. National Park of Thethi

Thethi has the status of a national park. It was proclaimed a protected area in 1976. Thethi is 70 km far from Shkodra city, positioned at the northern part of Shala commune, 700-950 m above sea level. The National Park of Thethi has an area of 2630 ha, from which 1699 ha are forest and the rest is a rocky area.

The valley of Thethi is surrounded by the Mountains of Radohima, Shenik, and Papluka, as well as from the mountainous Passes of Peja and Jezerca, the Sheep Trail, the Black Peak, and the peak of Zorgji. The villages of this region lie on both sides of the river.

Population and villages

Shale commune has 11 villages.

Table 2

Villages Population Number of

families Male Female Total Breg Lumi 84 102 186 70 Nicaj Shalë 19 197 393 204 Abat 131 134 265 106 Lekaj 306 334 640 169 Pecaj 67 63 130 60 Vuksanaj 249 267 516 163 Theth 402 377 779 261 Gimaj 346 301 647 256 Ndërlysë 195 203 398 128 Nënmavriq 298 327 625 193 Lotaj 207 224 431 149

Table 7.2. Family structure in Thethi

The family nucleus is stable, dependent on the economic status and has been simplified. In past, the family was patriarchal, and the family nucleus consisted of the parents and their male children’s families, and all of them shared the same roof. Today, the family consists of the parents living at home with their unmarried children. Married girls live in their husband’s home. Married boys choose to live on their own, but usually the youngest son shares the house with his parents. As shown in the table above, the average number of family members is 3.

Education:

The first American Red Cross School was opened in 1921.

Migration:

The inhabitants of this region have tendency to migrate to urban areas, but, during the summer, they return, thus demonstrating their attempts to develop family tourism. A part of the young people has had the tendency to immigrate to other countries, but in recent years, they have returned to invest in their country.

Traditional values and culture:

Cultural attractions of the region of Thethi begin with the traditional clothes, churches, characteristic houses, and the way of living.

Traditional clothing includes “xhubleta” for women, and “xhamadani” and “tirqet” for men. Women use traditional veils, brides use veils with roses and light colors, whereas the other women use black veils tied to the throat. Men use woolen traditional hat called “kësulë”.

Characteristic houses are built from stones and their wooden roofs are very sloping, to avoid snow. The houses are 2-3 floors high, with stairs located at the external part of the house that leads to the second floor because the first flat is usually reserved to the animals. The second floor is used as the guest room and for the other members of the family.

The local population is very hospitable. Many people have already begun to receive tourists from Albania and abroad in their houses.

Agriculture and livestock:

The inhabitants of Shala cultivate their land and fields for only half of the year, in order to sustain themselves and their families. The diet of this region includes mainly meat and diary products such as cheese, butter, and cottage cheese. These products have a high quality because of the clean environment and the fertile soil.

Forestry:

The beauty of this region is reflected in the forests of beech, black pine, maple, and ash tree. The greatest part of the plant life of this region includes immense forests of beech, which roughly comprise 90% of the area. Some centennial beeches with a diameter of 1 – 1.5 m are found here. Also the oak trees are widely present.

A myriad of flowers are present in this region. The most noteworthy is the Wulfenia of Baldaçi, an endemic plant that grows only in Theth.

Tourism and recreational activities:

You can walk through marvelous paths and ways in Thethi, though it is advisable to be always accompanied by a guide, which in the span of a few days can lead you to the local churches, graveyards, power plants, and nature monuments.

It takes three hours to reach Thethi and there are many more sights worthy to be seen during the way: the cemetery of Treci, the valley of Shala, the rugged mountains of the alpine region etc. From the mountain of Jezerca you can view the peaks of Dukagjini and Bjeshkët e Namuna. From here, it is possible to continue the way towards Tropoja and Curraj zones, walking through Valbona Pass to Dragobia, through the passes of Thora and Peja, and finally ending up in Malësia e Madhe.

Mountainous cycling can be conducted from Koplik to Thethi and from Thethi to Shkodër. There are nearly 100 km of mountainous road in Thethi that will satisfy cyclists fond of natural beauties.

In Theth, the passionate people can parachute and use the delta plane.

During spring and fall, when the rivers of Thethi become tempestuous because of the accumulated snow, canoeing can also be practiced in these waters.

Tourist attractions:

The Waterfall of Grunas, 30 m high.

The Water Sources of Okol, from where the Shala River springs.

The Arapi Cave, 120 m long, with tectonic shapes and water wells. There are many undiscovered graves in this area. Inside the cave, there are three small lakes.

The cave “Bira e Rrathëve”, which has many underground lakes, galleries, siphons, stalactites and stalagmites.

The big Canyon of Grunasi, with carbonatite strata. It is 2 km long, 30-60 m deep, and 2-3 m wide.

Rieci grave, which is the point from where one can see Okol, the mountainous pass of Peja and that of Shtegu i Dhenve on the left side.

The Denelle Area, with glacial lakes and other aspects of the relief.

Hunting and fishing:

National Park of Thethi has an area of 2630 ha, from which 1699 ha are forests and the rest is rocky area. The fauna of the region is diverse. There can be found 50 species of birds, 10 species of reptiles and 8 species of amphibians.

The rocky area is populated by wild goats, while the woodland is populated by wild boars, bears, wolves, foxes, rabbits, squirrels, hawks, eagles, wild roosters, as well as several species of woodpeckers, alpine salamanders, and butterflies.

Fig. 7.1. Shkodra district

There are many places along the Shala River, as in Ndërlysë, where one can fish.

Waters:

A small hydroelectric power plant has been built on Thethi River. During the raining season, the volume of the water raises up to 15 m3/sec.

Landscape:

Thethi lies at the head of the Shala Valley and is located in the district of Shkodra. Nature has given to this region a beautiful, fascinating view. Thethi is characterized by its natural biodiversity which includes: forests, alpine and sub-alpine pastures, craggy mountains, and deep valleys.

The lowest point is 700 m above sea level. In the north, the grey and treeless peak of Arapi rises 2217.2 m above sea level, a preferable peak by the alpinists for its difficulty according to international standards. In the east, you can see Jezerca Mountain, 2692 m above sea level. There are some other peaks such as: peak of Alia, 2471 m high, the peak of Pullaka, 2569 m high, etc. These mountains are positioned one after the other, and are full of snow. On the west side of the peak of Arapi is the peak of Rrushbull, 2431 m high, going down to the peak of Zorgji, 1663.8 m high, and the peak of Biga e Gjimajve, 2230 m high. From the peak of Radohima, Bjeshkët e Namuna and the entire mountainous region of the Alps can be seen.

The clean climate and the numerous natural beauties make this region attractive to the tourists. Thethi welcomes visitors all the year round, including mountain climbers, botanists, fishing amateurs, speleologists, as well as those passionate of mountain cycling.

Fig. 7.2. Kuksi disrict

7.2.3. KelmendiI

The area of Kelmendi is rich in tourist attractions which include coniferous and beech forests and verdant pastures. These forests are populated by wild goats, roebuck, bears and eagles. The Cemi River, which cuts through Kelmend, has cold water, “cyclopean” rocks, and is full of trout.

“Logu i Bjeshkeve” is a very important event for the local community and it occurs every year during the August. Spectators to this event come from various districts of Albania: Shkodra, Malësia e Madhe, and even from Tirana. This event consists of several fairs which display different products: handicraft items, silver jewelry, as well as characteristic agricultural and livestock articles. Different sportive activities are also organized from which the race of equitation strikes out.

The coronation of all these activities is the beauty pageant of the young girls of the region. Participants come from the surrounding regions and are judged by a selected jury. The girls are placed in the center of a natural amphitheater and are dressed with traditional costumes to display the grace and wealth of their heritage. This competition is organized to demonstrate the traditional and cultural values of the region.

Population and villages

Commune of Kelmendi has 8 villages.

Table 3

Villages Population Number of

families Male Female Total Selcë 644 588 1232 183 Brojë 379 389 768 142 Tamarë 263 256 519 180 Vukël 682 696 1378 179 Kozhnjë 123 118 241 60 Nikç 276 268 544 126 Lepushë 261 260 521 121 Vermosh 730 719 1449 350

Family structure:

The structure of families has been simplified. In the past, the family nucleus consisted of the parents and their male children’s families and all of them shared the same roof. Today, the family consists of the parents living at home with their unmarried children. Married girls live with their husband’s home. Married boys choose to live on their own, but usually the youngest son shares the house with his parents. As shown in the table above, the average number of family members is 5 – 6, but there are villages where this rate is lower.

Education:

Elementary students have the possibility to attend classes in their own villages, while for their secondary classes they must attend a school in Malësia e Madhe or in other major cities.

Migration:

A part of the population, mainly young people, has begun migrating toward the other cities. In addition, a considerable number of people, including whole families, have chosen to emigrate.

Traditional values and culture:

Cultural attractions of the region of Kelmend include mainly the traditional clothes, churches, characteristic houses, and the way of living.

Traditional clothing includes “xhubleta” for women, and “xhamadan” and “tirqet” for men. Women use traditional veils, brides use veils with roses and light colors, and the other women tie black veils to the throat. Men use woolen traditional hat called “kësulë”.

Characteristic houses are built from stones and their wooden roofs are very sloping, to avoid snow. The houses are 2-3 floors high, with stairs located at the external part of the house that leads to the second floor, because the first floor is usually reserved to the animals. The second floor is used as the guest room and for the other members of the family.

The local population is very hospitable. In addition to the hotels, the houses of some inhabitants may also be used for accommodation.

In Albanian villages, the tradition of crafting and decorating small wooden objects still exists amongst the villagers. Therefore, the shepherds decorate their crooks, distaffs, spindles, etc. Others, more skilled in the art, construct baby cribs, traditional chairs, musical instruments, wooden boxes, etc.

The women are also expert artisans in wool processing, and they can skillfully produce various items, such as woolen covers, different clothing items for their family members, etc.

Agriculture and livestock:

The inhabitants of Kelmendi cultivate their lands and fields for only a short period of the year, in order to sustain themselves and their families. The diet of this region includes mainly meat and diary products such as cheese, butter, and cottage cheese. These products have a high quality because of the clean environment and the fertile soil.

Medicinal Herbs:

The region of Kelmendi is home to various medicinal herbs such as: blueberry, juniper, cornel bush, etc. The herbs are often used by the inhabitants of Kelmendi; they use the blueberries to produce syrup and jam, while the cornel and juniper are used to produce an alcohol drink called “raki”. The chestnut honey is also famous for its nutritional and medicinal values.

Tourism and recreational activities:

The natural monuments of Kelmend are noteworthy. Among them we can mention: the Beech of Gerza with historical values, the Beech Forests and Meadows of Harusha, a unique collection of trees, and the Eulfemis of Baldaci and other rare plants on the verge of extinction.

Tourist Attractions:

The Balcony of Rrapshi, 800 m below it the Cemi River flows.

The Pass of Bordoleci, a magnificent landscape, from where high mountains, canyons, meadows, and beech forests can be seen.

Hunting and fishing:

In Tamarë, where the rivers Cemi i Selcës and Cemi i Vuklit meet each other, there is an excellent location for fishing trout.

Landscape:

The region has some magnificent landscapes. This is an unforgettable view for everybody that passes through for the first time. The clean environment and the numerous natural wonders make this region a tourist attraction. This region is distinguished for the high snow covered mountains, green pastures, dense forests, wonderful valleys and numerous water sources. The natural monuments created by the limestone and karstic processes can be seen throughout the region. This wonderful nature invites every traveler to return and explore its wonders.