Galapagos IslandsAdventure

By Tom and Shirley Begley Photos by Tom Begley

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or an amazing wildlife adventure, try expedition cruising on an Ecoventura

luxury yacht in the Galapagos Islands. Ecoventura has been honing its skill at providing passengers with a very reward-ing voyage for 25 years. For eight days and seven nights Orlando and Daniel, our experienced English-speaking naturalists, guided us on an educational exploration in this unique wildlife wonderland.

The Galapagos are located in the Pacific Ocean on the Equator 600 miles west of Ecuador in South American. Spanning 17,000 sq. miles of ocean, there are 13 major and six minor islands. These volcanic islands erupted from the ocean floor 7-9 million years ago and comprise the Galapagos Marine Reserve, the 2nd largest reserve in the world. The Galapagos National Park covers 97% of the islands and was created to preserve and protect the diverse endemic and other wildlife on the islands. wildlife on the islands.

A primary reason to visit the A primary reason to visit the Galapagos is to see the island’s namesake Galapagos is to see the island’s namesake - the 600 lb. Giant Tortoise* (asterisks* - the 600 lb. Giant Tortoise* (asterisks* indicate flora and fauna endemic to the indicate flora and fauna endemic to the Galapagos). At one time, the population Galapagos). At one time, the population of these mammoth reptiles was estimated of these mammoth reptiles was estimated to be 250,000. Decimated by pirates, to be 250,000. Decimated by pirates, whalers, and disturbed by introduced ani-whalers, and disturbed by introduced ani-

mals like rats, cats, goats, and donkeys, mals like rats, cats, goats, and donkeys, currently a captive breeding and repatria-currently a captive breeding and repatria-tion program has brought the population tion program has brought the population back to almost 20,000. back to almost 20,000.

In the 1570’s the world map first In the 1570’s the world map first referred to the Insulae de Los Galapegos. referred to the Insulae de Los Galapegos. Recorded history on the islands dates to Recorded history on the islands dates to 1535 when the Bishop of Panama’s 1535 when the Bishop of Panama’s account of the islands told of Giant account of the islands told of Giant Tortoises and Land Iguanas,* and their Tortoises and Land Iguanas,* and their amazing tameness. (The name Galapagos amazing tameness. (The name Galapagos

originates from the Spanish word gala-pago’ meaning saddle.) The island’s human history included: pirates & buc-caneers, English and French sailors prey-ing on Spanish colonial ships and ports; whalers & sealers; and colonizers from Europe and America. The Americans are noteworthy for destroying the English whaling fleet, and for establishing an Air Force base on Baltra during WWII to pro-tect the Panama Canal.

fter a hard-braking airplane landing on San Cristobal’s short runway, we

were met by our Ecoventura naturalists who escorted us by bus to the harbor jetty in Puerto Barquerizo Moreno. Waiting for our ship’s panga (dinghy) we first saw Sea Lions* darting around in the crystal clear water. Onboard our ship, the Eric, we set-tled into an efficient, comfortable air-con-ditioned cabin with double-bed and pri-vate facilities. Once underway we arrived vate facilities. Once underway we arrived at the white powder-sand beach at Cero at the white powder-sand beach at Cero Brujo for the first of many snorkeling Brujo for the first of many snorkeling adventures in the refreshingly cool, clear adventures in the refreshingly cool, clear water, teeming with colorful fish. Upon water, teeming with colorful fish. Upon returning to the ship, we were always returning to the ship, we were always greeted by Captain Peter and Luis, Eric’s greeted by Captain Peter and Luis, Eric’s steward, who had snacks for us after a steward, who had snacks for us after a shore excursion.shore excursion.

Every night before dinner, we gath-Every night before dinner, we gath-ered in the main deck lounge. Our natu-ered in the main deck lounge. Our natu-ralists conducted informative briefings on ralists conducted informative briefings on the next day’s events. Knowledgeable the next day’s events. Knowledgeable educators, they informed us that Charles educators, they informed us that Charles Darwin’s Galapagos discoveries in 1835 Darwin’s Galapagos discoveries in 1835

Writer Shirley Begley with two land tortoises.Writer Shirley Begley with two land tortoises.

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were the inspiration for his theory of evo-lution by natural selection, the Origin of the Species. Darwin reasoned that thou-sands of years ago a species of Finch established itself on the Galapagos. This pioneer population found itself in differ-ent environments on the various islands with different types of food available. In order to survive, the shapes of the finches’ beaks evolved into different tools to eat different foods - plants, cactus, fruits, insects, nuts and seeds and there-fore thirteen distinctly different species of Finches evolved. Because of its relative isolation, the Galapagos has been regarded as the most unique natural living laboratory of evolution in the world.

e awakened each morning to a deli-cious buffet breakfast, and the first

morning found us anchored at Tower Island on Darwin Bay inside a large col-lapsed volcanic cone. When our panga landed we climbed some steep steps to observe hundreds of Great frigatebirds and red-footed boobies nesting in the Palo Santo trees within a few feet of us.

Male Frigatebirds sat on nests built to attract females. In full mating display their brilliant red-throated pouches extended like large balloons. While flap-ping their wings and calling out, females nonchalantly cruised overhead. We are told the females check out the pouch’s size and the nest construction to deter-mine what kind of mate the male will be.

he next morning on the beautiful white sands of Playa Las Bachas,

Santa Cruz, we observed Greater Flamingoes feeding in the tranquil lagoons. Marine Iguanas* have left their unique telltale grooves in the sand while making their way to the water. The Galapagos is the only place in the world where iguanas are known to swim.

Arriving on North Seymour, the trail led us to Blue-footed Boobies sitting on ground nests protecting their newborn chicks. The parent’s bodies carefully

shaded their young from the sun and with open mouths, vibrated their throats to produce a further cooling effect. As the rocky trail turned inland we glimpsed a rare delight — a Galapagos Land

Male frigate in full mating display.Male frigate in full mating display.

A blue-footed boobie with her chick.A blue-footed boobie with her chick.

Tom Begley with a Tom Begley with a red-footed boobie.red-footed boobie.

Iguana.* A big gold-faced, grey and tan fella, he had punk-like gold spikes run-ning down his spine. Although we were close enough to touch him, he sat motion-less in the tree’s shade as we shot endless photos.

fter motoring 120 miles, Wednesday morning we were nestled in the

beautiful Tagus Cove, Isabela. As we approached our panga landing, the first image was of graffiti on the rocky cliffs, with inscriptions dating back to the 1800’s. Later our panga ride back to the Eric took us along the cliffs where we observed Galapagos Penguins* sitting at water’s edge. Wondering if it wasn’t too hot on the equator for Penguins, we learned of yet another example of natural selection; these Penguins have adapted to the heat by becoming much smaller in size.

The next adventure was a deep water snorkel. Slipping over the panga’s side, we found ourselves nose-to-nose with Sea Lions - darting, rolling, and somersault-ing energetically looking for playmates. They gently tugged at our flippers, blew bubbles and zoomed by in all directions. We then spotted our first Pacific Green Sea Turtle, a rather large creature grace-fully cruising below us.

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n Bartolome we landed on a moon-like landscape, where we got a close

look at dramatic remnants of volcanic activity: cinder and spatter cones and lava

bombs. Climbing 365 wooden steps to the summit, we were met with spectacular views in all directions: sentinel-like Pinnacle Rock and Sullivan Bay below, and Sombrero Chino, (the Chinese Hat) in the distance. This is said to be the most pho-tographed location in the Galapagos and from here it was easy to see why Sullivan Bay’s protection was a favorite of pirates and whalers in centuries past.

riday morning the Eric was anchored in Academy Bay,

Santa Cruz. After breakfast we landed at Charles Darwin Research Station established in 1964. The station provides sci-entific research and environmental edu-cation, information and advice. Scientists, educators, and volunteers from the world over, manage the station.

The best known program at Darwin Station is the captive-breeding and repa-triation of the Giant Tortoise. A moving story of captive breeding is Lonesome George, the male tortoise found on Pinta in 1971. So far no mate has been found for him, and without one the Pinta subspe-cies will become extinct when Lonesome George dies. Both George’s age and the life expectancy of a Giant Tortoise is unknown although scientist’s best guess is 100-300 years.

Their real success story is Diego. Researchers had rescued 12 females and 2 males from Espanola but they weren’t producing offspring. The San Diego Zoo returned Diego, its’ Espanola subspecies to the Darwin Station, who demonstrated how coupling occurred. Now the fifteen have produced 1,000 offspring who have been repatriated to Espanola, and more than 1,500 tortoises have been released to other islands.

Leaving the station, we walked through Puerto Ayora, and ate lunch at a

little street café while soaking up the island’s culture, color and charm. Boarding buses to the highlands, we arrived at a private farm bordering the National Park where we observed mag-nificent land tortoises in the wild.

We then had the physical adventure of the week. From a lush green field we started down stone steps into a big tunnel - the largest lava tube in the Galapagos with a 30 ft ceiling. As we moved away from the entrance the sunlight quickly gave way to dimly lit wet corridors illu-minated by low wattage bulbs. Coming to an opening about 10ft. wide by 2-3 ft. high, we belly-crawled through the muddy low-ceiling area until we could stand up again — happy to be headed for daylight.

ur Saturday afternoon took us to Punta Suarez, Hood, where we saw

aggressive Hood Mockingbirds,* Sea Lions all over the beach and many red and green colored Hood Christmas Iguanas.* Along high cliffs we spotted Nazca Boobies, Galapagos Doves,* Finches,* a Galapagos Hawk* and Hood Lava Lizards* with short, thick tails. Further along we observed the spectacular Hood blow hole shooting a plume of water 45-90 ft. into the air from a crevice in the cliff below. It was mesmer-izing to watch the rolling Pacific’s waves come in, waiting to see the height and timing between the plumes. Our next sighting was the unique attraction here, the beautiful white-headed Waved Albatross.* A huge Albatross clumsily waddled to the cliff’s edge, and awkwardly flapping its’ wings, launched on the updrafts to soar grace-fully and effortlessly above us. This dra-matic setting on high rugged cliffs above

the brilliant blue Pacific is the only place in the world where 12,000 pairs-for-life nest.

ur last evening together, Captain Peter and crew joined us for a fun

initiation into the Galapagos Neptune Dominion to commemorate having crossed the Equator six times on our voy-age. Each of us was baptized with the name of a Galapagos animal, given cer-tificates and told that in case of sinking someday, all the fishes will recognize you and see to your needs. After a toast by all, we retired with slightly heavy yet full hearts to the Dining Room for our last dinner onboard. Later, arriving once again at Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, San

Cristobal, the onshore lights were bright and music rode the night air for all anchored in the harbor to hear. There was definitely a party in town that Saturday night.

n the morning we gathered up our daypacks for our

last panga ride to the jetty, having traveled 524 miles onboard the Eric. Onshore once again we vis-ited the Interpretation Center for a fascinating tour of Galapagos his-tory.

After enjoying a leisurely lunch and walk along the waterfront street, it was back to the airport.

After exchanging thanks and warm fare-wells with Orlando and Daniel, we watched as our flight back to Guayaquil arrived with a new group of Galapagos visitors. We wanted to sneak in line with them and repeat our experience. Great

ship, great food, greatest crew and passen-gers, fantastic fun and memorable expe-dition — the wildlife adventure of a life-time!

For travel information, call Galapagos Network 1-800-633-7972, or visit www.ecoventura.com

Sea lions — in love?Sea lions — in love?

The studly Diego with a lady friend.The studly Diego with a lady friend.

Christmas IguanasChristmas Iguanas