advanced ttqc presentation for testing hunter

WELCOME

TO ALL OF YOU IN

MY PRESENTATION

SUBMITTED BY:Md.Azmeri Latif Beg142-32-257

Test Requirement for

Export quality Textile

Product

Topic Name

Content1.Test Arrangement

2.Major Chemical Tests for Textile product

3.Major Physical Tests for Textile product

4.Flammability

5.Fiber Identification and Analysis

Part 1 Test Arrangement

Part 1 Testing Arrangement According to Requirement

13.03.2015 MSc. TTQC Presentation6

Part 1 Testing Arrangement According to Requirement


Colorfastness, Flammability &Fiber test for textile product

Test NameTest

Description

Standard Method

AATCCASTM D

BS / EN ISO

DIN OTHERS

C / F To Washing

C / F To Water

C / F To Sea Water

C / F To Perspiration

C / F To Light

C / F To Crocking

C / F To Cl-Bleach

C / F To Non Cl-Bleach

C / F To Dry Cleaning

C / F To Ozone

C / F To Burnt Gas Fumes

C / F To Saliva

C / F To Aging

C / F To Dye Transfer

C / F To Phenolic Yellowing

C / F To Chlorinated Pool Water

Fiber content

Flammability( 16 CFR 1610)

Flammability( 16 CFR 1615/ 1616)

Part 1 Testing Arrangement



Buyer TRF

All sample information need to fill in

-Applicant & Payer

-Sourcing Agent

-Product category

-Buyer Contract Number

-Buyer Article Number

-Seasonal Code

-Colour

-Test Stage (Final Production Sample / Pre Test Sample), etc.

Submit samples with Buyer TRF


I. Sample Procedures

Standard Operating Procedure(SOP)

10

Supplier submits samples & TRF

LAB Project Team

receives and

acknowledges receipt

of sample & TRF

Sample preparationTesting starts

Test Data available Supervisors

verify results

Prepare Test Report

& invoice

Report issued and

sent to suppliers

13.03.2015 MSc. TTQC Presentation


• 4 working days

• No surchargeNormal

• 2 working days

• 40% surchargeExpress*

• 1 working day

• 100% surchargeSuper Express*


III. Service turnaround time (Bangladesh)


Faster services are available for certain tests in specific locations. Availability should be

confirmed by the Commercial Lab offices.

Working hours, working days and cut-off times of sample receipt vary in the

Commercial Lab offices.

Samples arrive to after 11am and before 3pm will count as 0.5 working day


IV. Service turnaround time (Remarks)

Day 1 Day 2 Day 3 Day 4Express

Super Express

Normal

Part 2 Major Chemical Tests

Part 2 Major Chemical Tests

1. Formaldehyde

2. Nickel Release

3. Hexavalent Chromium (Cr VI)

4. Phthalates

5. Azo Dyes

6. APEO/NPEO/NP/NE/LABSA

7. PAHs (polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons)


Major Chemical Tests

Part 2 Major Chemical Tests - Formaldehyde

Volatile compound

A gas at room temperature with a pungent smell

Readily soluble in water to form formalin or formol

Washing might reduce formaldehyde of fabrics

13.03.2015 MSc. TTQC Azmir Presentation15

What is formaldehyde?

Part 2 Major Chemical Tests – Formaldehyde (cont’)

Release from textile at body temperature

Formaldehyde exposure can be in the form of gas –phase inhalation or liquid -

phase skin absorption

Exposure to high concentration formaldehyde can be fatal; it can cause skin allergy

and mucous membrane irritations.

Long term exposure may cause respiratory difficulty, eczema and sensitization

It is classed as a human carcinogen and has been linked to nasal lung cancer, and

with possible links to brain cancer and leukemia.


Why formaldehyde is concerned in textile and garments industry?

Requirement is 16 mg/kg

Part 2 Key Chemical Tests – Nickel Release Instrument: Inductively Coupled Plasma Optical Emission Spectrometer

Nickel Release

Asthma and chronic bronchitis

Allergic reactions such as skin rashes

Heart disorders


Health effect

http://hk.wrs.yahoo.com/_ylt=A3OyCEVDU6BLNw8BrMK1ygt.;_ylu=X3oDMTBpc2VvdmQ2BHBvcwM3BHNlYwNzcgR2dGlkAw--/SIG=1ifa2a5rg/EXP=1268884675/**http:/hk.image.search.yahoo.com/images/view?back=http://hk.image.search.yahoo.com/search/images?p=nickel+allergy&ei=UTF-8&meta=rst=hk&fr=FP-tab-web-t&fr2=tab-web&w=283&h=190&imgurl=www.theassayoffice.co.uk/images/Nickel-allergy-neck-3.jpg&rurl=http://www.theassayoffice.co.uk/images?sortby=7&size=21k&name=Nickel+allergy+n...&p=nickel+allergy&oid=84d69976139e0866&fr2=tab-web&no=7&tt=400&sigr=11fh6de9t&sigi=11phtem8v&sigb=13i5rcqe1&type=JPG

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Part 2 Major Chemical Tests – Nickel Release (cont’)

3/13/2015 MSc. TTQC Azmir Presentation18 |

Zeeman requirement – Nickel Release

Part 2 Major Chemical Tests - Hexavalent Chromium (Cr VI)

Instrument : Gas Chromatograph with Mass Spectrometer

Chemical element chromium (Cr) exists in three main forms:

1.Chromium metal

2.Trivalent chromium (Cr III)

- health effect: safe

- Cr III sulfate: tanning processes

3.Hexavalent chromium (Cr VI)

- inhalation exposure: lung cancer

- direct skin contact: cause skin irritation

- WHO & EPA: Cr VI is human carcinogen WHO EP


What is Hexavalent Chromium (Cr VI)?


Part 2 Major Chemical Tests - Phthalates

Instrument : Gas Chromatograph with Mass Spectrometer Phthalates , or phthalate esters, are esters of phthalic acid and are mainly used as plasticizers (substances added to

plastics to increase their flexibility, transparency, durability, and longevity). Phthalates are manufactured by reacting

phthalic anhydride with alcohol(s) that range from methanol and ethanol (C1/C2) .

As plasticizer in plastics (especially PVC)

Increase softness and flexibility

Advantage: flexibility, durability, longevity and low cost


Application

Health effect

Bio-cumulative

Endocrine disruptor

Certain phthalates as well as their metabolites and degradation products can cause

adverse effects on human health, in particular on liver and kidney for

DINP(Diisononyl phthalate) and on testicles for DEHP(Di(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate).

Buyer requirement – Phthalates (7P)

DINP, DNOP, DEHP, DIDP, BBP, BDP and DIBP

Requirement is 0.1%

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Esters

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phthalic_acid

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plasticizer

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastic

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diisononyl_phthalate

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Di(2-ethylhexyl)_phthalate

Part 2 Major Chemical Tests – Azo dyes


Synthetic organic colorants

In theory, azo dyes can supply a complete rainbow of colours. They have fair to

good fastness properties

The azo compound class accounts for 60-70% of all dyes.

These dyes may undergo in vivo reductive cleavage to aromatic amines and

some of them are proven or supposed carcinogenic.


What is Azo dyes ?

Percent distribution of each chemical class between major application range


Chemical

class

Acid Basic Direct Dispers

e

Mord

ent

Pigme

nt

Reac

tive

Solve

nt

Vat

Unmetalized

Azo

20 5 30 12 12 6 10 5 -

Metal complex

Azo

65 - 10 - - - 12 13 -

Thiazole - 5 95 - - - - - -

Stilbene - - 98 - - - - - 2

Anthraquinone 15 2 - 25 3 4 6 9 36

Indigoid 2 - - - - 17 - - 81

Quinophthalone 30 20 - 40 - - - 10 -

Aminoketone 11 - - 40 8 - 3 8 30

Phthalocyanine 14 4 8 - 4 - 43 15 3

Formazan 70 - - - - - 30 - -

Methine - 71 - 23 - 1 - 5 -

Percent distribution of each chemical class between major application range


Chemical

class

Acid Basi

c

Direct Disperse Mord

ent

Pigm

ent

Reactive Solve

nt

Vat

Nitro,Nitro

so

31 2 - 48 2 5 - 12 -

Triarylmet

hane

35 22 1 1 24 5 - 12 -

Xanthane 33 16 - - 9 2 2 38 -

Acridine - 92 - 4 - - - 4 -

Azine 39 39 - - - 3 - 19 -

Oxazine - 22 17 2 40 9 10 - -

Thiazine - 55 - - 10 - - 10 25

Percent distribution of chemical classes in Reactive dye hue sectors/%


Chemical

class

Yello

w

Oran

ge

Red Violet Blue Green Brown Black % of all

reactive

dyes

Unmetaliz

ed Azo

97 90 90 63 20 16 57 42 66

Metal

complex

Azo

2 10 9 32 17 5 43 55 15

Anthraquin

one

5 34 37 3 10

Phthalocy

anine

27 42 8

Miscellane

ous

1 1 2 1

Percent distribution of chemical classes in Disperse dye hue sectors/%

13.03.2015 Corporate Presentation25

Chemical

class

Yello

w

Oran

ge

Red Violet Blue Green Brown Black % of all

disperse

dyes

Azo 48 92 73 47 27 30 100 100 59

Anthraquin

one

6 2 25 53 72 65 32

Nitro 16 3 3

Aminoketo

ne

8 2 1 1 5 2

Methine 14 2

Quinophth

alone

4 1

Miscellane

ous

4 1 1 1

3/13/2015 MSc. TTQC Azmir Presentation26

Part 2 Major Chemical Tests - Azo dyes (cont’)

Cotton

Wool

Polyester, Polyamide (Nylon...), Polyacrylonitrile (Synthetic fibres)

Leather

Paper

Foodstuff

Hair

Wood

Application

Technical relevance of Azodyes

More than 3000 different azo colorants (dyes+pigments) are produced.

Approximately 50 - 150 are banned azodyes. 50-150

- banned amine components

> 50% of the dyes used nowadays are azodyes.

3/13/2015 Presentation TÜV Rheinland27

Part 2 Key Chemical Tests - Azo dyes (cont’)

22 aromatic amines are forbidden in the EU Regulation 1907/2006 Annex XVII and item 43 (limit：30ppm).

These 22 amines are known to be carcinogens or potential carcinogens.

2 additional aromatic amines (2,4-Xylidine & 2,6-Xylidine) that are forbidden for many retailers such as

Wortmann, Novi, Adidas, Deichmann …

China also forbids the use of aromatic amines in the national standard GB 18401 with a limit of 20mg/kg.

Forbidden in EU over 20 years.

Listed of banned amines

3/13/2015 Presentation TÜV Rheinland28

Part 2 Key Chemical Tests - Azo dyes (cont’)

All materials especially textile, leather, thread.

All kinds of colored materials (except white)

Leather and coats

Critical Components

How to avoid the presence of banned Azo Dyes?

Use only dyes which cannot split off the hazardous amines.

Make an inventory of the dyes used in your production process and include the products

you buy and may contain dyes in your inventory.

Ask your suppliers for azo-safe certificates.

Check whether it is possible to use of natural dyes instead of azodyes in your product.

Use dyestuff supplied by reputable producers, who provide the Colour Index Numbers.

Buyer requirement – Azo Dyes


Part 2 Major Chemical Tests – APEO/NPEO/NPInstrument :Liquid Chromatograph with Mass Spectrometer

13.03.2015 Corporate Presentation29

Alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEOs – often called alkyphenols or alkylphenyls) are surfactants which have an emulsifying and dispersing action, so they have good wetting, penetration, emulsification, dispertion, solubilizing and washing characteristics. This makes them suitable for a very large variety of applications: they’ve been used for over 50 years in a wide variety of products. In the textile industry, they are used in detergents and as a scouring, coating or waterproofing agents, in printing pastes and adhesives, and in dyeing. The most important APEO or alkylphenol ethoxylates for the textile industry are NPEO (nonylphenol ethoxylates) and OPEO (octylphenol ethoxylates) due to their detergent properties, but there are a big family. About 90% of the produced APEO are in fact NPEO.

Part 2 Major Chemical Tests – PAHs(polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons)



16 EPA PAHTypical chemical structures of PAH

1. Naphthalene (Nap)

2. Acenaphthylene (AcPy)

3. Acenaphthene (Acp)

4. Fluorene (Flu)

5. Phenanthrene (PA)

6. Anthracene (Ant)

7. Fluoranthene (FL)

8. Pyrene (Pyr)

9. Chrysene (CHR)

10. Benz(a)anthracene (BaA)

11. Benzo(b)fluoranthene (BbF)

12. Benzo(k)fluoranthene (BkF)

13. Benzo(a)pyrene (BaP)

14. Indeno(1,2,3-cd)pyrene (IND)

15. Dibenzo(a,h)anthracene (DBA)

16. Benzo(g,h,i)perylene (BghiP)

found for example in tobacco

smoke

one reason that tobacco

smoke may cause cancer

Naphthalene Nap

was used in moth balls

gave moths balls its typical

smell

Part 2 Major Chemical Tests - PAHs


Requirement is below:

Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs, also polyaromatic hydrocarbons) are

hydrocarbons—organic compounds containing only carbon and hydrogen—that are

composed of multiple aromatic rings (organic rings in which the electrons are delocalized).

Formally, the class is further defined as lacking further branching substituents off of these

ring structures. Polynuclear aromatic hydrocarbons (PNAs) are a subset of PAHs that have

fused aromatic rings, that is, rings that share one or more sides.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organic_compound

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aromatic_ring

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delocalization

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Substituent

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aromatic

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Simple_aromatic_ring

Part 3 Physical Test

Part 3 Major Physical Tests


Dimensional Stability & Appearance

1. Dimensional Stability Test

2. Torque / Spirality Test

3. Appearance

Strength Properties

1. Tensile strength

2. Tearing strength

3. Bursting strength

4. Seam slippage

Major Physical Tests


1. Colorfastness to Washing

2. Colorfastness to Perspiration

3. Colorfastness to Crocking

4. Colorfastness to light

5. Colorfastness to Saliva

Colorfastness Tests

Major Physical Tests - Dimensional Stability Test


Determination of the dimensional stability (shrinkage or

growth) of woven and knit fabrics when subjected to

Domestic washing and drying procedures. - (ISO 5077,

ISO 6330 & ISO 3175)

Significance

The test is to confirm that garments will perform to the user’s

satisfaction if they are washing according to provided care

instructions. Any distortion like shrinkage or growth out of shape,

etc., would affecting the comfort and appearance of garments.



The specimen is conditioned in standard environment

according to ISO 139 (20 ± 2°C, 65 ± 4% relative humidity).

Specimens are marked and measured with calibrated ruler,

then washed and dried according to the provided care

instructions. The washed specimen is re-conditioned in

standard conditions before measurement of the dimensional

change.

Number of washing cycle: 1 (ISO requirement)

Fabrics: specimen size 500mm x 500mm,

bench mark distance 350mm



% Dimensional = 100 X

change

(A’ - A)

A

Original bench mark distance (A)

Washed bench mark distance (A’)

Shrinkage Growth


13.03.2015 Präsentation TÜV Rheinland39

Origin of shrinkage in fabrics:

Fibers spun into yarn are under constant tension during the

weaving process. Such action will impose internal stresses

in the fiber molecules. Without permanent fixing, fibers

tend to revert to their natural state, which causes shrinkage.

Shrinkage Control



In general, the factors in controlling shrinkage in fabrics are

stability of the fiber and the construction of the fabric.

Construction based on the type of weave, the amount of

twist in the yarn, the fabric count, and the yarn count. There

are several ways to control and reduce shrinkage in fabrics.

1. Compressive Shrinkage

2. Resin Treatment

3. Tentering

Major Physical Tests - Torque (Spirality)

13.03.2015 MSc TTQC Azmir Presentation41

Spirality is the measurement of twisting of fabrics after washing.

The origin of spirality arises from molecule, yarn and fabric

construction.

The specimen is conditioned in standard environment according to

ISO 139 (20 ± 2°C, 65 ± 4% relative humidity). A standard square

marking is put on a specimens, then washed and dried according

to the provided care instructions. The washed specimen is re-

conditioned in standard conditions before measurement of

spirality.

Angular relationship of course and

Wales in a knitted structure

In other words, spirality occurs in knitted fabric because of

asymmetric loops which turns in the wales and course of a fabric

into an angular relationship other than 90 degree. This is a very

common problem in single jersey knits and it may exist in grey,

washed or finished state and has an obvious influence on both the

aesthetic and functional performance of knitwear. However, it does

not appear in interlock and rib knits because the wale on the

face is counter balanced by a wale on the back.

Course spirality is a very common inherent problem in plain knitted

fabrics. Some of the practical problems arising out of the loop

spirality in knitted garments are: displacement or shifting of seams,

mismatched patterns and sewing difficulties. These problems are

often corrected by finishing steps such as setting / treatment with

resins, heat and steam, so that wale lines are perpendicular to the

course lines. Such setting is often not stable, and after repeated

washing cycles, skewing of the wales normally re-occurs.

Causes of generation (spirality ):

The residual torque in the component yarn caused due to bending and

twisting is the most important phenomenon contributing to spirality. The

residual torque is shown by its twist liveliness. Hence the greater the

twist liveliness, the greater is the spirality. Twist liveliness of yarn is

affected by the twist factor or twist multiple. Besides the torque, spirality

is also governed by fibre parameters, cross-section, yarn formation

system, yarn geometry, knit structure and fabric finishing. Machine

parameters do contribute to spirality. For instance, with multi-feeder

circular knitting machines, course inclination will be more, thus exhibit

spirality.



Square Marking Method Inverted T Marking Method



Diagonal lines Offset Mark

% Spirality =

100[2(AC - BD) / (AC + BD)]

+ve skew to right

-ve skew to left

% Spirality =

100[(AA’ + DD’) / (AB + CD)]

% Spirality =100(AA’/AB)



Besides marking method, measurement of the spirality in

garment samples can be based on side seam twisting. Such

measurement will include not only the fabric torque but also

the effect from garment structure.



Ways to reduce Spirality :

Relaxation Finishing - This allows the individual loop structure to

distort to relieve the internal stress.

Heat Setting - for thermoplastic man made fabrics. The fabrics

temperature is raised almost to the glass transition temperature† of

the fibers in order to relieve the internal stress.

Resination - Stabilization of the fabric through application of resin.

Hand will be impaired, however softener can improve such adverse

effect.

†Glass transition temperature is the temperature of transition between rubbery stage and

glassy stage.

Major Physical Tests - Appearance


Evaluation of appearance of a product (distortion, pilling,

hand feel, trim compatibility) after washing according to the

provided care instructions.

Specimens are visually evaluated before and after washing

according to the provided care instructions. Any visual

defects, such as rippling, puckering, trims damage, color

loss, print loss, fabric rupture, differential shrinkage, etc.,

will be reported.

Major Physical Tests - Tensile Strength


Determination of breaking force and elongation of textile

fabrics. - (ISO 13934-2)

Significance

It indicates the potential strength of woven fabric within a

product in resistance to tension.



This test method is not recommended for knitted fabrics and

other textile fabrics which have high stretchability (more than

11%).

The fabric is conditioned in a standard environment of 20 ± 2°C

and 65 ± 4% relative humidity for at least 24 hours. The fabric

is cut into specific specimen sizes 200mm x 100mm. Both

warpwise and weftwise directions are required. Test

specimens are mounted on a tensile tester along the long

dimension and subjected to a constant rate of extension. The

loading force at point of rupture or break is recorded as tensile

strength.



Tensile tester



General Note:

Coarser yarn size gives a greater tensile strength

High twist yarn gives a greater tensile strength

Higher fabric count gives a greater tensile strength

Different fiber possess different tensile properties

Major Physical Tests - Tearing Strength


Determination of the average force required to continue a

tear from a slit in a woven fabric by means of falling

pendulum (Elmendorf) apparatus. - (ISO 13937-1)

Significance

It indicates the potential strength of woven fabric within a

product in resistance to tearing action.



The method is applicable to treated and untreated woven

fabrics, including those heavily sized, coated or resin-

treated. The test is not suitable for knit fabrics, felts or non-

woven fabrics.

The fabric is conditioned in a standard environment of 20 ±

2°C and 65 ± 4% relative humidity for at least 4 hours.

Specimens, for both warpwsie and weftwise, of specific

shape are die-cut from the sample fabric. The specimens

are mounted between two clamps, precut by a knife then

torn through a fixed distance by the swinging pendulum to

generate the average tearing force in pounds for both the

warp and weft directions.



Specimen

for testing

the weftwise

direction

Specimen for

testing the

warpwise

direction

Test specimen



Important Note:

Coarser yarn size gives greater tearing strength

Looser sett gives better tearing strength

Different surface finishes on the fabric will affecting the

tearing properties

Sample size for

Pendulum tear



Unacceptable tear Untearable specimen

Finishing agent for improving tearing strength

Turpex CAN (Ciba) - a polyethylene dispersion which can

improve tearing resistance.

Major Physical Tests - Bursting Strength


Determination of bursting strength of textile fabrics

using hydraulic method. - (ISO 13938-1)

Significance

It indicates the potential strength of the knitted

fabric within a product.



The fabric is conditioned in a standard environment

of 20 ± 2°C and 65 ± 4% relative humidity according

to ISO 139. Test specimen is clamped over an

expandable diaphragm. The diaphragm is expanded

by fluid pressure to the point of specimen rupture.

The test method is generally applicable to a wide

variety of knitted goods and non-woven fabrics. It is

not recommended for general use on uncoated

woven fabrics.



Bursting Strength = Total Pressure - Tare Pressure

of the Specimen

Total PressureTare Pressure

(The pressure required to inflate the diaphragm)



Important Note:

Coarser yarn size gives greater bursting strength

Higher stitch density gives higher bursting strength

Different surface finishes on the fabric will affecting the

bursting properties

Major Physical Tests - Seam Slippage


Determination of the yarn slippage resistance at sewn seams in

woven fabric under loading. - (ISO 13936-1 & ISO 13936-2)

Significance

It determines the tendency of the yarns to slip out of the seam and

whether they would be readily repairable by re-seaming.



Seam slippage is the separation of seam due to slippage of filling yarns

over warp yarns or warp yarns over filling yarns. In such slippage, the

stitching thread is remain unbroken.

Seam SlippageSeam failure

Stitching thread

remain unbroken

Stitching thread

broken



Fabric Sample

A test specimen of 400mm x 100mm with long direction

parallel to the filling yarns is cut from sample fabric, if the warp

yarns slide over the filling yarns is tested or vice versa.

The load-elongation curve of the fabric is superimposed over a

load-elongation curve of the same fabric with seam sewn being

tested. Resistance to yarn slippage is reported as the load at

which slippage of a specific size is seen.

This test is not intended for upholstery fabrics.



Proto seam:

Fold the specimen 110mm from one end and sew a seam 20mmfrom the end of the fold.

Needle: 0.90mm in diameter

(measured at the eye)

Thread: 45 ± 5 tex 100

Polyester thread

Stitch

density: Plain lockstitch 50 ± 2

stitches per 100mm

29

0 m

m

11

0 m

m

100 mm

Fold lineSeam line 20 mm

Distance from fold line

Cutting line 12 mm

from fold line

Test

Specimen

without

lockstitch

seam

Test

Specimen

with

lockstitch

seam



Step 1: Tensile strength of the fabric

Fabric

Elongation



Step 2: Test for seam slippage

Report the load (lbf) at

0.25” yarn slippage

Total Elongation =

fabric elongation

+

0.25” yarn

slippage

+

Compensation



Garment Sample

The fabric alignment of adjacent patch of a seam may not be the same in

a garment seam. Direct measurement of seam slippage on garment

seam provide a more accurate result.



Record the load at 0.25” seam separation



For felled seam, the load for either side reach 0.25” separation will reported as

seam slippage



Remedies for preventing seam slippage:

1. Superimposed seam type

2. Lapped seam type with tape / interlining reinforcement

3. Anti-slip finish (resin treatment)

Colour fastness

The stability of color or it fastness is one of the most important requirement of valuable customers. Color

fastness is the resistance of the color to fade or breed by these agencies. These changes occur because of

decomposition of the molecules in the fiber or because of their removal into the external medium.


Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering

This test is designed to evaluate the colorfastness properties of textiles

which are intended to be laundered frequently. The fabric color loss,

bleeding, and surface changes resulting from the detergent and abrasion

are simulated by a 30 min. Launder-o-meter test which approximates the

action of either five typical hand washings, home launderings, or

commercial launderings, with or without bleach. Along the width the

specimen (100mm x 40mm), a DW multifiber (Acetate, Cotton, Polyamide,

Polyester, Acrylic ,Wool )swatch is attached. Then they are placed in a

metal jar containing a specified number of steel balls to provide friction and

abrasion. After the specimen are processed, it is removed from the metal jar

and dried. The color change and color staining are evaluated against the

corresponding ISO Grey Scales.

The purpose of this test is to insure that textile products do not have

excessive color loss and/or bleeding after several times of laundering.

Major Physical Tests - Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering


Relation with Care Instruction:

Washing temperature:

Warm or Cold

Machine Wash or Hand

Wash

Warning such as Wash

With Like Color, etc.

Major Physical Tests - Colorfastness to Rubbing


These tests are designed to evaluate the degree of color which

may be transferred from the surface of colored textile materials to

others surfaces by a rubbing action. The specimen is conditioned

in a standard textile testing atmosphere of 20 ± 2°C and 65 ± 2%

relative humidity for a minimum of 4 hours. The test specimen is

rubbed against white crock test cloth either at dry or wet with

water under controlled conditions. Any color transfer on the white

crock test cloth is evaluated against the Gray Scale for Staining.

The purpose of this test is to insure that textile products do not

excessively transfer of dye or print onto other surfaces such as

upholstery, carpeting and other wearing apparel through rubbing

action.

Major Physical Tests - Colorfastness to Rubbing


Relation with Care Instruction:

Warning such as Wash With

Like Color and Wash Separately

Rub for 10 cycles

Dry

crock

Wet

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Crockmeter

Major Physical Tests - Perspiration

13.03.2015 Präsentation TÜV Rheinland78

This test is designed to evaluate the colorfastness property of textiles to

the effects of perspiration. A specimen of colored textile and multifiber test

fabric is wet out in a simulated perspiration solution, subject to a fixed

mechanical pressure and allowed to dry slowly at a slightly elevated

temperature. The change in color of the specimen and staining of the

attached multifiber test fabric is evaluated against the Gray Scale for

Color Change and Staining.

The purpose of this test is to insure that colored textiles do not

excessively stain clothing or change color under the action of perspiration.

This will be particularly important in underwear.

Major Physical Tests - Perspiration


Perspiration Tester

(Also used for colorfastness to water and seawater)

Major Physical Tests - Colorfastness to Light


This test is designed to evaluate the colorfastness property of textiles

when subjected to light. A test specimen is exposed to a specific amount

of radiant energy (light). The color different of the exposed region of the

specimen is compared to the unexposed region and is evaluated against

the ISO Gray Scale for Color Change.


excess color fading under store lighting and in direct sunlight.



Xenon arc lamp

Test specimens

exposed to the

light source with

half of the area

being covered

by metal plate



Light source Xenon arc lamp

Black panel temperature 48 ± 2°C

Relative humidity 40 ± 5%

Irradiance (at 420 nm) 1.10 ± 0.03 W/m2/nm

Irradiance (at 300 - 400 nm) 42 W/m2

ISO 105 B02 (method 2)

Major Physical Tests - Colorfastness to Saliva (DIN 53160)


This test is designed to evaluate the colorfastness of textiles under the

action of salvia. A piece of filter paper saturated with artificial salvia solution

is in contact with the sample fabric. The specimen is then placed over water

in a covered jar. The jar is keep at 37 ± 2°C for 2 hr.

If no trace of coloring can be detected on the filter paper, the sample is

quoted as “Resistant to Saliva” otherwise “Not Resistant to Saliva”.


colorant transfer to the infant’s or baby’s mouth and mucous membranes

under the action of saliva.

4. Flammability


Flammability Testing

The term flammable meaning capable of burning has been found to be ambiguous, and

has given way to flammable carrying the same meaning.

Test Method(s):

· 16 CFR 1610

· ASTM D6413

· NFPA 701

· 191A Method 5903

Flammability of Wearing Apparel - 16 CFR 1610

(45 Degree Flammability)

The United States Federal Government requires clothing and textiles intended to be

used for clothing to have Normal Flammability (Class 1) as tested with 16 CFR 1610

(ASTM D 1230 Standard Test Method for Flammability of Apparel Textiles). Fabric is

mounted at a 45° angle from ignition source.

5.Fiber Identification and Analysis


Fiber Identification - Most countries importing apparel and soft home

furnishing products require fiber identification labels indicating the fiber type

and percentage of fiber components. Some countries even use fiber

composition to classify quota categories. Fiber analysis is a method of

identifying and examining fibers used by law enforcement agencies around

the world to procure evidence during an investigation.

The most common use of fiber analysis is microscopic examination of both

longitudinal and cross sectional samples. While this is the most common

method of undertaking fiber analysis, others do exist. These include the

burning and solubility methods. These methods are most commonly used to

reveal the identity of the fiber. Fiber analysis is usually not undertaken in

university labs because of the usual lack of required solvents.

It may be Qualitative or Quantitative analysis

Advanced Fiber Testing Machine:

Scanning electron microscope (SEM)

Wide-angle X-ray scattering (WAXS) or

Wide-angle X-ray diffraction (WAXD)

Small-angle X-ray scattering(SAXS/SAXD)

Atomic force microscopy (AFM)

Scanning force microscopy (SFM)

Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) Spectroscopy

Conclusion:

Quality is a relative term. It means customer needs is to be satisfied. Quality is

of prime importance in any aspect of business. Customers demand and expect

value for money. As producers of apparel there must be a constant endeavor to

produce work of good quality. To assess the quality of textile product Textile

Testing is very important work or process. Testing In response to ever-

changing governmental regulations and the ever-increasing consumer demand

for high quality, softlines testing and textile testing help to minimize risk and

protect the interest of both manufacturers and consumers. It is important that

testing is not undertaken without adding some benefit to the final product.

There are a number of points in the production cycle where testing may be

carried out to improve the product or to prevent sub-standard merchandise

progressing further in the cycle. So various Steps of Textile & Garments

manufacturing where in-process Testing, inspection and quality control are

done to avoid reproduction, reprocessing and minimize wastage.

MSc. TTQC Azmir Presentation

advanced ttqc presentation for testing hunter

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