academy f 4c

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  • 8/15/2019 Academy F 4C

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    Do you have a ‘Holy Grail’ build? I’msure every modeller has one. Thebuild to end all builds. For some it’s

    a kit that isn’t produced that you someday hope for, or one so complex andinvolved that it doesn’t play well with your busy life or limited budget.

    Mine is one I’ve been dreaming of doing for over

    fifteen years - the most prolific MiG killer of the Vietnam

    conflict, ‘Oyster (OY) 463’. This was an F-4D Phantom,which ended the war with more kills than any other

    single airframe. Two of these kills came at the hands of 

    Capt. Steve Ritchie, the Air Force’s only pilot ace (the

    others being Weapons System Officers) and along with

    the Navy’s Randall Cunningham was the only front-seater

    to achieve ace status during the conflict. In addition to

    Ritchie’s two kills,

    ‘463’ claimed four more North

    Vietnamese MiGs at the hands of 

    other American pilots.

    Around fifteen years ago I happened

    across an old Microscale decal sheet showing

    the airframe in late 1972, after Ritchie’s fifth kill.If memory serves, even at that time the sheet had

    been out of production for some time. My intention at

    the time was to use the decals right away on a

    Hasegawa build. However, I somehow was able to face

    the reality that I might only get one chance at the build,

    so I held on to the decals waiting for my skills to develop.

    I also secretly hoped that someone would do a newer

    tooling of the F-4C/D. Years later when Academy

    announced their new-tool F-4B I knew the C/D would

    soon follow, so anticipation for this build began to grow.

    Having patiently waited to start this build for more

    years than I care to admit, I decided to start collecting

    aftermarket; the dream build was becoming a reality. For

    this kit I choose Eduard Brassin Wheels and

    Exhausts, as well as their fabric harnesses. I also grabbed

    the Brassin Weapons Set packaged specifically for this kit

    which includes four Sparrows, four Sidewinders, and

    twelve Mk 82s. Resin ‘Martin Bakers’ from Aires were also

    used to dress up the cockpit. My aftermarket foray was

    rounded out with DEF Model FOD covers and Remove

    Before Flight tags plus Steel Beach Slime Lights.

    Work began in the cockpit. And while the kit detail is

    fairly nice, I was hoping to add the Aires resin set, but

    could not get it to fit at all. I’ve seen some builds squeeze

    it in, but I have no idea how they managed, honestly, so I

    opted to use the seats and photo-etch bits in conjunction

    Holy Grail

    Phantom James Dickerson builds the 1:48Academy F-4D as a Vietnam WarMiG Killer – and achieves amodelling goal in theprocess!

    F-4D PHANTOM24

     This build represents the most prolific MiGkiller of the Vietnam conflict - ‘Oyster 463’

    Manufacturer: Academy

    Scale: 1:48

    Kit Type: Plastic injection moulded with etch

    Kit Number: 12294

    F-4C/D Phantom

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    with the kit pieces. The Aires seats are quite nice

    and while they come with etched harnesses, I opted to

    test my nerves with the Eduard fabric options. I really like

    to use fabric belts when possible, but this was my first

    time doing so in 1:48. They worked beautifully and have

    more life and detail than metal, but they are a bit

    tedious. The seats were sprayed with a base of black and

    details were brush painted with Vallejo Model Colours,

    after which the Eduard etched parts were added. A light

    dry brushing of Neutral Grey added some depth and the

    cushions were washed with AMMO of Mig Brown Wash.

    The cockpit interior was then painted with a Tamiya Sky

    Grey XF-19. The kit consoles come as separate pieces that

    made painting a breeze, and the seats were test fitted

    before a Dark

    Grey oil wash was added

    to the cockpit tub.

    With the cockpit out of the way I

    moved to the Eduard exhausts. I’d say if 

    you’re only adding one aftermarket item to

    this kit the exhausts should be your

    choice. They are highly visible and the

    Eduard pieces are exquisite, but the best

    part is they are drop-in replacements. The

    fan assembly was finished in Alclad Dark

    Aluminium and washed with black to add depth. The

    cans were sprayed with Alclad Steel. The burner cans

    Model Aircraft | December 2015

    H  O  L  Y   G  R  A  I   L  P  H A  N T   O  M 

    25

    Adding details to the cockpit

    and ejector seats

    Alclad products

    really makes the

    exhaust areas

    stand out

    Adding the tan colour …

    … and then applying

    some shading

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    were first sprayed with Alclad Exhaust Manifold and then

    I masked off and the feathers were sprayed with Alclad

    Jet Exhaust. Some transparent blue was lightly sprayed to

    add some heat discoloration. For ease of painting, the

    burner cans were left off the model. The rest of the

    exhaust assembly dropped then into the installation

    braces, and were secured with epoxy. This allowed me toadd the cans at the end of the build and avoid having to

    mask them.

    With the exhaust and cockpit completed, it was time

    to move on with assembly, and there are a few points

    that are worth mentioning. First, the sidewalls for the

    main landing gear are a bit fiddly. In fact, there is at least

    one aftermarket jig meant to help assembly. Take care

    with alignment, and use the lower wing half to guide

    you. You must attach the main gear before closing the

    wing halves together! Also, the splitter plates have little

    location tabs on the tops. If you remove these you can

    slide the plates in at the end of the build. This helps

    immensely with painting since you won’t have to squeeze

    your airbrush behind them. I completely ignored the

    intake assembly since I opted for FOD covers! Assembly

    was then rather straightforward and required no filler.

    The kit’s one-piece fuselage is

    certainly it’s biggest selling point,

    but the moulding process does

    mean you’ll need to clean off some

    seams.

    Painting is where the fun begins for me, and the

    Phantom was no exception. Southeast Asia three-tonecamouflage is by far my favourite, so I was looking

    forward to dusting off the airbrush. After priming with

    Tamiya Surface Primer I began on the underside with Mr.

    Color Camouflage Grey FS 36622. Normally I prefer

    to post-shade, but this colour is so light I’ve

    not had much luck with it so I opted for

    a pre-shade RLM 66 Dark Grey. The

    base colour was slowly built up in thin

    layers over the pre-shade until the

    desired effect was reached. Then using

    Blu Tack to mask off the demarcation

    between upper and lower surface colour I now

    moved to spraying the Mr. Color Light Tan FS30219, laying down a clean full coat of the base shade.

    Once the base colour was dry I use a lightened mix (about

    80% White) to lighten panels in random areas. Next, I use

    a Dark Brown to darken along some of the panel lines.

    The next step was to blend the shading layer back in.

    For this I used a lightly thinned mix of the base colour

    misted over the shading. This left an effect similar to

    pre-shading, but with more variance and depth, in my

    opinion. Next came Mr Hobby Medium Green FS 34102,

    and for the soft demarcation I used Blu Tack ‘snakes’

    about the thickness of a pencil and shaped them onto

    the model to match my references. When I move to

    painting I take care to spray at 90 degrees

    to the surface, and this ensures an even

    demarcation. It won’t be as hard edged

    as masking tape, but is not as soft as free

    F-4D PHANTOM26

    … and the

    lower surface

    The pitot covers add a touch of realism

    Close-in on the canopy and forward fuselage

    The completed upper surface

    Vietnam camouflage scheme …

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    H  O  L  Y   G  R  A  I   L  P  H A  N T   O  M 

    hand spraying, and I find this method perfect for the

    scale representation that you would see on the real

    thing. The same shading technique is used on both the

    Medium Green and the next colour, Mr Hobby Dark

    Green FS 34079.

    For painting the Phantoms signature heat shielding

    around the tail, I once again turned to my trusty stash of 

    Alclad. First I sprayed a layer of Duralumin for the upperportions and on the stabilizers. This was allowed to dry

    and then I masked off the lower portions and sprayed

    Steel where appropriate. Painting was wrapped up by

    handling details such as the radome, the

    green and white tail and canopy frames.

    The model was then clear coated with

    two applications of Alclad Aqua Gloss

    and allowed to dry for a couple of days.

    Decaling was a daunting task. First I

    decided to apply the airframe specific decals from

    the old Microscale sheet. I was worried about how they

    had held up, but despite my apprehensions they held up

    well. Within minutes of application they had settled intothe details without any solution. For the stencils I opted

    to stick with the kit decals. Academy is using Cartograph

    on new kits and these performed beautifully. The

    application of stencils took five or six bench sessions and

    care must be taken to force all the air from under each

    decal to avoid silvering, and as there are close to three

    hundred of them, it takes time! The decals were then

    protected with a coat of gloss and I moved to doing my

    washes, and here I used a combination of colours and

    went with AMMO of Mig Dark Brown Panel

    Line Wash for the topsides and Deep

    Grey Panel Line Wash for the

    undersides. I find

    that Alclad finishes have trouble holding an

    enamel wash because of their smooth surface,

    so for the heat shielding I used Pro Modeller

    Black Wash.

    Next, I moved to handling the final ‘fiddly

    bits’ as I call them, and the Phantom is a

    pretty complex subject when it

    comes to these details.The landing gear and

    their various doors

    take some care to install,

    as do the multi-ejector racks

    and weapons pylons, which

    were assembled off 

    model and added at the end of 

    the build.

    Some final details were then

    added to liven things up. First I used

    DEF Model Remove Before Flight tags,

    and I also wanted to replicate the

    protective sleeves used on the sensors on the

    tail. After studying some reference images I decided to

    shape these with aluminium foil and an old airbrush

    needle. These were then painted red and the flags added.

    Placing the project you’ve dreamed about for many

    years on your shelf is bittersweet. It’s great to be proud of 

    the job you’ve done and relieved that you did your vision

     justice, but it leaves a void. I guess all I can do

    now is move on to another ‘Holy Grail’ buildto dream about. Hopefully this time it

    won’t take fifteen plus years to realise

    that dream.   MA

    Model Aircraft | December 2015   27

    Fully loaded!

    I used AMMO of Mig Dark Brown Panel Line

    Wash for the topsides and Deep Grey Panel

    Line Wash for the undersides